Gardening illustrated. v.6.1884-85. Illinois

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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
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INDEX TO VOLUME VI.

\

COMPRISING

Numbers from March 8th, 1884, to February 28th, 1885.

LONDON :

37, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C.

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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

A Weekly Journal for Amateurs and Gardeners

FOUNDED BY W. ROBINSON

Author of “ The English Flower Garden,

“Yor SEE SMEKT MAID, »K MARRY
A GENILK SCION TO TUB WILDEST STOCK
AND MAKE CONCEIVE A BARK OK BASER KIND
BY BI D OK NOBLER RACE I THIS IS AN ART
WHICH DOES MEND XATCRE J CHANGE IT RATUER : BUT
THE ART IT8KLK IS NATL - RE. rC,

"CALL THE VALES AND BID THEM HITHER CAST
THEIR BELLS AND FLOWERETS OK A THOL8A»P HUES.

VOL. VI., FEBRUARY 28 , 1885

LONDON

SOUTHAMPTON STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C.

, UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT

i5 K '' " ' " URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Original from

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

INDEX TO VOLUME VI

Illustrations in Italics,

Anemone a’ba, 361
alpina, 07
apennina, 17, 107
c .mown U'ood, 00
coronnria, 108
dfcmxtahi , jioirers of, 521
double ttyypu, 67
fulgens, 93, 209, 264, 564
Japan, 60
narcimi/lora, 309
of Palestine, 595
Poppy. 60
red Japan, 380
Robinsoniana, 93
Anemones, 94, 456, 530, 563
as annuals, 245, 583
Crown, 68

Crown, culture of, 547

for the London suburbs, 029, 631, 042

notes on, 06

Palestine, 695

seed sowing, 08

sowing, 3

Annuals, 46, 55, 103, G35
among shrubs, 75
and biennials, 483
Anemones as, 245

as substitutes for beddiiig plants, 227

dwarf, with variegated foliage, 578,668

for cutting, 058

for small gardens, 05

half hardy, 583

long-lasting, 011

some good, 43

some useful, 682

sowing, 386

sowing and raising, 106
tender, 56

Anthericum Liliago, 208
Liliostrum majus, 208
Anthracite coal, 581
Antirrhinums, 361, 409
dwarf, 176

transplanting, 619, 643
Ants, getting rid of, 053, 064
in greenhouses, 10
in Peach houses, 200
nest of, 251

Aphis and hot water, 226
Aphides, 227
in the garden, 98
Apiary, position of, 11
Apparatus, heating, 464
Apple, Charlotte, 400
district, good, 7
enemies of the, 377
Golden Reinette, 536
Jelly, 334
Lord Derby, 468
Ribston on Pear stock, 20
rice, 63
Apples, 549
and Pears, 338
and Pears, gathering, 302
cankered, 027

compOtc of, for dessert, 347
crop of, 378

Apples, dessert, for cordons, bushes, or
orchard houses, 369
dessert, for dwarfs, 809
dessert, for standards, 369
early dessert, 244
for cider making, 461
for dessert, 369
for north walls, 390
from the Midlands, 015
gathering and storing, 831

f ood, 535
ist of cooking, 78
list of dessert kinds, 77
Lord Sutfield v. Keswick Codlin, 430
not keeping, 661
on ornamental trees, 100
on walls, 74

Aquarium, light for, S9C
management of an, 12, 52, 242
marine, 242
minnows for, 295
plants for, 269, 612, 544
sticklebacks hatching in, 396
Aquilegia and Myosotis, 691
gland ulosa, 425
Aquilegias, 149, 409
Arabis, 583

Aralia Sieboldi, 474, 614, 634, 654
trifoliata, 443
Aralias, 630

Araucaria, sowing seeds of, 350
Arbutus Unedo, 433
Arbutuses, the, 555

Armaria baUanca in hole in wall, 657
Aristolochia Sipho, 566
Amebia echioides, 615
Arrangement, 605
simple and effective foliage, 329
Artichoke, the Globe, 509
the Jerusalem, 588
Artichokes, 516
Globe, 200, 457
Jerusalem, 666

Jerusalem, heavy crop of, 449
planting Jerusalem, 20
Arum family, the, 417
Arum Lily, 464
double-spathed, 475
Arum Lilies, 500, 571
planted out, 417
Arundo conspicua, 323, 373
conspicua and Hollies, 433, 450
Donax, 373

Ashes, wood and leaf, 577
Asparagus, 25, 516
and Seakale beds, 532
bed, forming, 532
beds, 656

beds in autumn, 251
culture of, 530
cutting, 166
early, 61, 449
for ornament, 216
forcing, 618
or Buna Kale, 157
seaweed as manure for, 577
sowing and planting, 73
tops of, 328
Asphalte, 346
Aspidistra lurida, 443
Aster Amellus major, 657
seed, 573

Asters, 105, 631, 642
China, as cut flowers, 39
to raise, 106
Astrantia major, 595
Attic, bats in, 064
Attics, keeping plants in, 818
Aubrietiu •nltoiaea, 54
purpurea, 54
Aubrietias, 108, 583
not flowering, 226
Aucuba as a pot phuit, 47
berries, 597

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

A BUTILON Route de Niege, 580
Due de Malakoff, 381
Abutilons, 29, 96, 152, 353, 500
in winter, 417
out of doors, 374
Acacia lophautha, 443
platvptern, 527
Acer palmaturn, 455
Acers in the greenhouse, 121
Achillea Ptarmica, fl.-pl., 580, 657
Achimenes and Gloxinias, 237
in glasshouses, 15
not flowering, 450
Aconite on turf, 692
the w inter, 116
Aconites, 583
Acorns Calamus, 374
Acrocliniums, 503
Adam's Needle not blooming, 514
Adiantum dolabriforme, 203
+fithwnema grandijlorum, 441
iEthionemas, the best, 441
Agapanthus, 170, 199
in the open ground, 514
in winter, 547
Agaricut cum pest r is, 205
Agathcea caeleatis, 571, 364
Ageratum, 662
cultivation of, 600
Ail&nto or Tree of Heaven, 193
Aim ccespitoaa, 137
Air giving and temperature, 567
Alisma Plantago, 374
Ailanthus, full grown, 195
All good, 578, 617
Almond tree, the, 567
Alocasias, 476

Aloe, Partridge-breasted, 444
variegata, 444
Alonsoa linifolio, 612
Alstrcemeria aurantiaca, 217
aurea, 217, 232
hxmantha, 426
Alstronnerios, 208
Altemanthero, propagating, 627
Alyssum, 583

maritimum as a window plant, 444
Amaryllis, 577
and Clianthus Dampicri, 572
Amaryllises, 428, 447
growing, 571

Amateurs, encouragement for, 652
hints to, 449
what they can do, 363
why they fail with hardy plants, 204
A morph a frutioosa, 257
Ampelopsis, potting, 494
Veitchi, 252

Veitchi, propagating, 474
Anstochilus, 649
Andalusians, 423
Andromeda arborea, 314
japonica, 500

Ribston Pippins, 7
storing, 378, 659
two good kitchen, 530
varieties of, 535
Apple tree, not bearing, 378
old, at Tachbrook, 243
Apple and Pear trees, branches of un¬
pruned, 413

Apple trees, blight on, 268
canker in, 486, 623, 550, 598, 633
diseases in, 401
espalier, 74
from cuttings, 75
grafted on Paradise stock, 74
grafts of, 633
grubs in, 188, 318
now they bear their fruit, 413
insects and diseases of, 77
mildew on, 401
Mistletoe on, 50, 154
moss and lichen on, 401
propagation of, 74, 661
singing to the, 582
summer management of, 77
the standard form, 74
various systems of growing, 535
winter management of, 77
Apricot, Musch-musch, 430
propagation of the, 140
under glass, 380
Apricots, 129
culture of, 139
insects and diseases of, 140
mulching and watering, 140
protecting the blossoms, 149
sudden death of large branches of, 378
summer management of, 140
thinning the fruit, 140
varieties of, 141, 380
winter pruning, 140
wiring the w alls, 139
Aquarium, arranging an, 202

bell glass, management of, 283, 307

fish and plants for an, 111

fish breeding In, 343, 372

fish for, 295, 319

fresh water, 347

fungus on fish in, 527

ice in, 544

Digitized by

VI

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Aucuba japonica, 631
Aucubos, male and female, 597
Auricula, 206
alpine, 197
offsets, 482

Auriculas, 117, 317, 405
after blooming, 156
alpine, 109, 116 197
alpine, for flower beds, 43
alpine, projvagation of, 230
culture of, work on, 634
double, 373

flowering in autumn, 260
raising new, 61
show, 463

transplanting, 629, 643
Australia, plants for, 420, 450, 464
Autumn, 442

A\ enue of tapering trees (Cypress), 025
trees for, 306

Avenues of tapering trees, 621
Aviary, birds for, 347, 372
foreign birds for, 319
outdoor, 576, 005
fainting an, 347, 372
A> lesbury Ducks, 52, 123
Azalea glauca, 212
indica, 206
indica alba, 606
mollis, 601
mollis in pots, 499
Mrs. Buist, 699
t osa*flora, 364
the Indian, 607
the ichite Indian, 0o6
Azaleas, 15, 96, 116, 126, 133, 156, 316, 560
after blooming, 120
and Camellias, 292
and Imantophyllums, 399
culture of, 591, 624
double white, 463
from seed, 261, 202
hardy,388
imported, 202
Indian, 388
leafless, 344

not blooming, 30, 450, 464
o\er-potted, 40, 4'.
propagating, 0*
pruning, 79
syringing, 60, 634

B ACON as it is cured in Yorkshire, 512,
527

Balsam, the Zanzibar, 3S1
Balsams, 281, 571
growing for exhibition, 663
Bamboos, 874, 420
hardy, 274
in the open air, 427
Banana, the, 483
Chinese, in fruit, 467
Tree Fern, « tc., 539
Bananas, culture of, 467
Bank, carpet for, 662
clayey, plants for, 349
Barberry blight, 477
common, blighted leaves of, 477
culture of the, 198
Barberries, 654
evergreen, 697
Bartonia aurea, 323
Baskets, flower, 59
hanging, 56

zinc pans for hanging, 59
Bats in attic, 664

Bean, dwarf yellow Canadian Kidney, 24
white-seeded Kidney, 188
Beans, 117, 139, 492, 517
and Peas v. mice, 004
and Tomatoes, 318
Broad, 4, 588
Butter, or Mont d'Or, 82S
dwarf French, 589
French, 25

French, preserving, 370, 420
Haricot, and their culture in France, 602
Haricot, cooking, 111
preserving, 328

preserving, for w inter use, 589
Runner, 336, 592
Scarlet Runners, culture of, 90
Bedding arrangements, summer, 643
permanent, 108

plants, arrangement of, 211, 218, 219
spring, 388
w inter, 3S8

Beds and borders, 470
Beehives, 576, 604
improved, 11
wasps in, 294
Bee, queen, 421
Bees, after sw arms, 214
artificial swarming, 136, 214
casts of second swarms, 137
comb foundation, 41
comb, melting old, 576, 604
condemned, 294
destroying, 333, 360
driven, uniting to stocks, 294
drones, 421
dying, 148

electing brood of, 242
facts for beginners, 62
feeding, 110
feeding syrup for, 872
habits of, 62
in bouse roof, 384, 480
keeping, 676

natural history, notes on. 421, 511
purchasing stocks, 11
queen excluders, 52

Digitized by

Goog

Bees, removing dead, 590
seasonable notes on, 214, 253, 294, 333,
371, 590

spring feeding, hiving, &c., 62
stocks queenless, 110
supering, 201
supering straw hives, 130
supering swarms, 180
swarming, 201
to handle with impunity, 52
to obtain pure comb hone\, 51
transferring, 62, 88, 137
uniting, 371

uniting swarms, 148 •

wild, aestroi ing, 807
wild, in bank, 307
winter food for, 590
w orker, 421
young queen, 406
Bee veil, 52

Beer from honeycomb, 527
hop, 63, 202
spruce, 296
Beet, 26, 354, 517
too large, 366
w inter treatment of, 402
Beets, 492

Beetroot, storing, 431
Beetle, the Black Vine, 228
Beetles in houses, 318
to destroy, 359

Beginners, hints for, 457, 469, 483, 505, 539
Begonia Carrierei, 557
Fuchshia-like, 634
fuchsioldes, 474
new irinter-floirering, 557
insignis, 432
Rex,470
Yeitchii, 443

Begonias, (K)6

fine-foliaged, from seed, 121
flne-leaved, 37, 499
for bedding, 79
for winter decoration, 533
how to grow, 622
large-leaved, 661
Mr. Laing’s, 186
notes on, 363
ornamental-leaved, 449
propagating, 327
propagating tuberous, 292
raising, 29
re-starting, 635
sowing seed of, 577, CIO, 624
to propagate tuberous, 82
tuberous-rooted, 46, 56, 274, 343, 610
tulierous, for bedding, 38, 103
tuberous, repotting, 600
variegated-leaved, under stages, 476
w inter-flowering, to grow, 179, 656
Belladonna Lilies in pots, 381
Bell flower, the Chinese, 426
the climbing, 481
Berberis aristata, 267, 289
Aquifolium, fruit of, 477
Darwini, 106, 600
Darwini and 9tenophylla, 157
Darwini, pruning, 213
japonica, 167
Berries and birds, 536
Biennials, 65
and annuals, 483
and perennials, 223
sowing, 217
w hen to 90W, 217
Rignonia radlcans, 483
Tweediana, 573
Bindweed, 882, 407
injurious to chickens, 2S3
Rock, 442

Birds and berries, 536
and Crocuses, 691, 029, 642
and Peas, 103
and seeds, 138, 595
v. slugs and Riiails, 202
Australian Grass, 384
breeding Canaries, 190
cage, insects on, 333
canary, 576
for aviary, 347, 872
foreign, for aviary, 319
for stock, 437
of passage, 834
think of the, 540
Biscuits, oatmeal, 495
Blackberry, American, 390
Blackberries, 281, 556
American, 402
well-grown, 328
Black Currant, the, 225
disease, 448

Black Currants, blanching and w atering,

225

gathering, 225
varieties of, 225

Black Currant bushes, bud on, 588, C15
propagating, 225
pruning, 225

Black Hamburgh, planting, 634
Blackthorns failing, 30
Blanc-mange, 255
Blight, American, 241, 340, 377
Barberry, 477
cure for, 35
on Apple trees, 268
on Brussels Sprouts, 675
on Honeysuckle, 666, 577, 690
Blind for vinery, 31
Blinds for plant houses, 9
Bocconia cordata, 274, 322
Bog garden, a natural, 621
plants for, 386

Bogs, artificial, and what to plant in them,

385

situation for, 38*>

Boiler for greenhouse, 345

Butter Beans, or Mont d'Or, 3*28
Butterbur, 374
Buttertworts, the, 541
Italian, 511

Boiler, Loughborough, 345, 420
Boilers, coif, 464

greenhouse and hothouse, some advice
about, 540

Bomarea covferta, 5, 167.

Bomareas, new’ varieties of, 166
Bone dust, 239

Bones, reducing, for manure, 160
Books, new, 372
Border, arranging a mixed, 65
Cloves and Carnations, 138
flowers for, 662
herbaceous, 447
herbaceous, manure for, 430
mixed, in August, 247
plants for shady, 01
plants, hardy, 208
ribbon, 503

south, cropping the, 47S *

sunny, flowers for, 359
utilising greenhouse, 572
Borders and beds, 476
cropping fruit tree, 20
hardv flowers for, 79
herbaceous, 4, 35, 353, 376, 426
herbaceous, manure for, 451
injxed flower, 415, 502
plants for, 471
plants for sunless, 44
Vine, 82

winter work on, 540
Borecole, 517
Botany, study of, 509
Bottle Gourd , 182
Bougainvillea glabra, 70, 8>l
Bougainvilleas, 428
Bouquet, an artist’s, 108
Bouquets, flowers for, 610
winter, flowers for, 579
Bouvardia, the, 620
(double), Alfred Xevner, 699
Bouvardias, 15, 132, 277, 375, 432, 447
choice, 462
culture of, 27S
double, 599
in frame, 650
in summer, 292
propagation of, 278
striking, 614
treatment of, 102
Box edgings, clipping, 40, 214
relaying, 8

Bracken, establishing, 440
in church decorations, 336
Brahma cockerel, points of, 333
Brambl», double white, 341
Branches, healing broken, 508
Bread, home-made, 372
home-made, yeast for, 296
how to makegood, 872
wholemeal, 423
Breeding pigeons, 52
Bridge made of boards, 626
solid wooden, 526
Bridges, kitchen garden, 526
Brier 9eeds, 591, 614
Broccoli, 517, 644
and Cauliflow er, 555
Cabbage, 646
earthing up, 328
for winter and spring, 479
planting out, 220
purple sprouting, 454
raising, 24, 34
self-protecting 328
Snow’s Winter White, 532, 604
the seed bed, 118
time to plant, 118
time to sow, 118
to plant, 139
varieties of, 118
Veltch's Spring White, 574
w inter, 85

Brodlera coccinea, 545
Brodiieas, 545
Broom, Spanish, 257
white-flowered, 433
yellow, cutting back, 659
BrugmansiR sanguines, 442
Brussels Sprouts, 81, 359, 492, 517, 555,

603,617
blight on, 575
climbing of, 24
Bvckbean, the fringed, 3S7
Buda Kale, blanching, 555
Buddleia globosa, 329
Bug and scale, destroying, 395
Vines affected with, 395
Bulb beds, permanent, 454
Bulbs, 281, 376, 395, 458
after flowering, 47
and tubers, 42G
forcing, 447
for next spring, 374
from the Cape, 120
Gladioli and other, 655
hardy, 497

hardy, for spring blooming, 387
Hyacinth, 44
manures for IS
Narcissi, 131
planting late, 321
removing to greenhouse, CS4
repotting Lily, 14
spring, 288, 321
sunny spots for, 546
taking up Gladioli, 109
treatment of Cape, 513
tubers, and conns, 160
watering, 627

Bullfinches attacking Gooseberry bushes,

563

Bullrushes, the great, 374
Buns, holiday, 255

Burning Bush, the, 567, 016, 636, 652, 662

. .. UNIVERillW ILLINOIS AT

C ABBAGE, 207, 644, 64a
pickled, 4S0
Red Dutch, 573
sowing, 24

young in autumn, 323
Cabbages, 318, 517
and Cauliflowers, 573
cutting, 206
tailing, 251
nice dish of, 347
red, 646
sow ing, 250
spring, 220, 455
winter, 618

Cabbage beds, old, 234
Cacalia articulata, 60
Cactus, Rob-shaped or Cat’s-tail, 444
Cacti, treatment of, 262
two good w’hite, 239
Cage birds, insect* on, 333
Cake, Bath, 544
buttermilk, 296
cornflour, 296
Liconia, 149
Madeira, 255
scrap, 612
soda,452

Cakes, Albert, superior. 149
ground rice, 255
saucer, 255
tea, 527

('alodium virginieum, 374
Culadiums, 15, 428, 606
Calamus Lindeni, 515
Culceolaria cuttings, COO, 619
herbaceous, culture of, 236
violacea, 426

Calceolarias, 4, 40, 212, 567
and Carnations, (35
and Cinerarias, 364, 405
and Geraniums, bedding, 591
l>edding, 628
herbaceous, 316
shrubby, 138
wintering bedding, 404
Calla :»thiopica, 443, 580
udhiopica, planting out, 826
doubkspathed, 475
Callas, 500
double-spathed, 475
Caltha palustris, 265
Caltrops, the Water,[897
Calycanthus floridus) 212
Camellia japonica, fruit of, 351
buds dropping, 132

Camellias, 288, 324, 575, 405, 414. 432. 4GQ
533, 580, 643
after flow’ering, 78
and Azaleas, 292
and Callas, planting out, 192
buds falling off, 6, 19
culture of, 673, 650
dropping their petals, 45
failing, 58
from seed, 261
hardiness of, 659
in rooms, 330
in the open air, 635
leaves, gum on, 103
on back w alls, 30
outdoors in Wales, 668
seed of, 399

Campanula, a fine autumn, 297
garganica, 399, 577
garganica and fragills, 470
jersicifolia, 297
persicifolia alba-plena, 057
pumila, 217
pumila alba, 613
pyraniidalis, 323
rapuncuioides, 481
Van Houttei, 657
Campanulas, 209, 470, 590, 677
tall-growing, 481
Canary Creeper, the, 582
Canary, egg-bound, 242, 319
losing feathers, 570, 604, 618
with bod throat, 526, 576
Canaries, 576
breeding, 111
dying, 372, 384
insects in, 242, 294
not hatching their eggs, 242
red mites in, 170
Candle plant, 69

Canker in Apple trees, 486, 523, 550, 598,
633

in fruit trees, 390, 656
Canker weed, 006
Cantua dependens, 121
Cape Heath, specimen of, 489
Cape Heaths and their culture, 489
Cardamine osarifoliu, 564
Cardoons, 570
Carnation, Andalusia, 699
Clove, Gloire de Nanev, 205
Carnations, 275, 270, 337, 409, 435, 680
and Calceolarias, 635
and Picotces, 40, 288, 442, 519, 642, 652
and Picotees not rooting, 635
and Pinks, 248
border, 230
border and tree, 510
Clove and border, 403
Clove, selection of, 403

w&w

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTR. /TED

vii

Carnations dvin# off, 351)
finest, G03 * 1

for following winttr, *3
from cutting*. 264
group of iejf-colour sd b~:der, 4 r «3
m frame, 650
in town*, 275
in winter, 650
layering, 596
not blooming, 220, 233
or Pico tees, 374

perpetual-flowering, 50, 236, 001,
perpetual from seed, 286
Picotees and Pinks, 330
planting out, 98
propagation of, 230
t-elf ooloured Clove, 427
transplanting, 311
tree, 458

tree or perpetual, GOO
winter-flowering, 475
Carolina Allspice, 212
Carpet bedding, 631. 643
for bank, 662
Carrots, 26, 517
and their culture, 65
and Turnips, 604
earlv Horn, 153
Shorthorn, 220
winter treatment of, 402
young, 157

CoMta jtnribnnda, 179
Cufflu, 179
Cassinia fulvida, 426
Castor-oil plants, 503
when to sow, 18

Catalogues, showy florists', 592, C19, 636,
JUristi', 646

Catannmhe cceniUa, 217
Caterpillar, cure for the Gooseberry, 126
the Gooseberry , 106, 172
Caterpillars, 227*
and Gooseberry trees, 37
and weevils, 377
on Geraniums, 371
on Gooseberries, 50, 164
Cats in gardens, 344, 370
injuring trees, 40, 61
Cat’s tails, 374
CattUya, «, 640
Cauliflower, the, 616
Autumn Giant, 328, 366
Sutton’s first crop, 206
Cauliflowers, 318, 617
and Broccoli, 555
and Cabbages, 573
and manure, 327
autumn-sown, 327
clubbing, 455, 479
early, in trenches, 7 4
notes on, 199
soil for, 479, 493
sowing, 24, 312
winter treatment of, 402
Oanothus, Gloire de Versailles, 216, 257
Celandine, 108
the lesser, 131
Celeriac, 605, 644. 643
Celery, 139, 153, 282, 492, 555, 517, 644
cankered, 127
early, 117

earthing up, 239, 250, 268, 312. 328

fly in, 268

for exhibition, 605

last planting of, 207

maggot, 532

piping, 25

plants for field cultivation, 648
trenches, 580
winter treatment of, 402
Celsia cretica, 299, 343
Cement for hot-water pipe*, 663
reading lamp, 573
Centaurea, 470
Cyanus, 107
Cnitaureas, 441
Cereus flagelliformis, 444
Cesspools, 61S

Cestrum aurantiacum, 364
Ckamudorta, a, 649
Charcoal, 214
in Vine borders, 92
Cheese and cream, 202
Cheese cakes, lemon, 255
Cheiranthus alpinus, 595
Chemicals, solutions of, 635
Cherry, Belle de Montreuil, 1x5
double-blossomed, 029
the, as a standard, 158
Cherries, 129, 153, 549
bush, 158
bush in pots, 159
choice, 126
culture of, 125
in pots, 380
on wills, 158
pruning, 158
varieties of, 159, 3S1
Cherry house, the, 380
ventilation of, 380

Cherry trees, insects and diseases of, 159
propagating, 158
renovating old, 158
^icstnut, the sweet Spanish, 175
Chestnuts, the culture of, 173
Chicken, 242
insect food for, 202
rearing in confinement, 463
Spanish, 149

Chicks and hens, milk for, 487
Chickens, bindweed injurious to, 283
mronin, 0(1, 666
<li*rrh<*a in, 295
<l\ing, 590. 615
495

fwpo in, U, 42, 63, HO, 123

Chicory, 34

culture of, 61

Chimonanthus grondiflorus, *94
China Asters as cut flowers, 39
Chionanthus vlrginica, 212f
Cliionodoxa Lucille, 3, 28, 108, 6C4
Choisya and Olearia, 554
Chorozema cordatum splendens, 364
Chou de Burghley, 366, 517 , 046
Christmas Rose, the, 579
a spotted, 503
the great, 307
white, 572

Christinas Roses, 410, 479, 483, 500
in pots, 327
propagating, 654
seedling, 503

Chrysanthemum, the, 608
blooms spotted, 659
Burridgeanum and Dunnetti, 107
coronarium, 241
cuttings, 81, 38, 40
earlv, Model, 349
Felicite, 559, 570
frutescens, 57
segetum, 232
tricolor, 43

vellow, for late blooms, 001
Chrysanthemums, 96, 165, 237, 281, 324,
376, 388, 410, 469, 491, 510, 631, 579,
680, 653

after flowering, 28, 510, 6*2
blue-flowered, 638
changing colour, 18, 494
cuttings of, 542
deteriorating, 463
display of, 4(9
dying off, 520
early-flowering, S97
fading, M2
fly on, 252, 282

for conservatory decoration, 638

for cut flowers, 116, 609

for exhibition, 320

for greenhouses, 09

for London gardens, 059

for open air, 613

for small greenhouses, 491, 638

growing, 540

in pots, 169

in winter, 526

Japanese, 542, 559 572

Japanese, for winter, 604

large, 4S3

late w hite, 661, 664

lists of, 491

open-air, 629

out of doors, 80

propagating, 462

single, 246

stands for, 479

sulphate of ammonia for, 652
summer-flowering, 349
useful, for cut flowers, 449
yellow, for late bloom, 610
Church decoration, .'{59
decorations, Bracken and Virginian
Creeper in, 330
Cider making, Apples for, 461
Cineraria maritima, 362
white, 578, 610

Cinerarias, 46, 68, 70, 137, 152, 248, 353,
305, 470, 500, 507, 048, 604
and Calceolarias, 304, 405
and Primulas, 304, 431
failing, 392
in greenhouse, 651
in vinery, 343
in winter, 558
large foliage on, 345
saving seed of, 604
Cuttings, wintering, 343
Citrons and Oranges, 414
Chdrastis nmurensie, 379, 591
Clematis, Algerian, 635
a yellow hardy, 613, 640
cirrhosa, 502 ’
graveolens, 613
indivisa, 6
in pots, 09

Jackmani, pruning, 318
Jackman’s, 245
montana, 454
with small flow ers, 120
yellow, 635

Clematises, 96, 855, 501
and other climbers, 232
and Roses, 335
cutting back, 311
in pots, 79
select, 501
white, 350

Clerodendron Balfouri, 200, 381
not flowering, 476
Clerodendrons, 476
Clianthus Dampieri, 621, 049
Dampieri ana Amaryllis, 572
puuiceus and Dampieri, 601
Climber, common Hop ns, 425
for cool greenhouse, SOS
for fernery, 120
for small fernery, 58
for wall, 220
growing naturally, 146
Climbers, 4, 104,117, 280, 375, 443
and Roses, 653

evergreen, for sunny and draughty
situation, 635
flowering, 651
for sunless walls, 44, 56
for warm fernery, 21
for warm greenhouse, a few, SSI
greenhouse, 29

hardy, by the seaside, 592, 029
pruning wall, 028
to train, 46, 173

Digitized! by

Go^ 'gle

Climbers, wrong t oay of gracing, 146
Clove, the old crimson, 273
Clove9 and Carnations for borders, 133
self-coloured, 406
Club Moss, Golden, 610
Coal, anthracite, 581

Cob Nuts and Filberts, Krnti-Ji system c.i
culture, 190
Cochins, 423, 494, 627
points of buff, 295
insects in, 384, 423
Cockroaches and crickets, 411
Cockscomb, culture of, 0
Cock, Spanish and Dorking, cross be¬
tween, 544
C’ocoa-nut refuse, 8
Caclogyne cristata, 47
Coil boilers 404
Coleus, heat for, 304
Coleuses, 281, 344
propagating, 332
Colewort, Rosette, 240
Coleworts, 419
to transplant, 139
winter, 220

Coltsfoot tea for a cough, 128
wine, to make, 123
Columbine, Rocky Mountain, 149
Columbines, 149, 208, 425, 470
and Daisies, 189
how to improve, 386
hybridising, 386
various . 150, 151
Comfrey for w inter food, 436
variegated, 245

Composts for potting and bonders, 214
Compete of Apples for dessert, 347
Concrete edgings, 676
Conifers and other trees, 580
Conservatory, 237
a naturally arranged, 221
heating, 572, 581
small town, management of, 635
two plants for the, 510
Conservatories as they should be, 221
picturesque, 261
Convolvulus family, the, 355
mauritanicus, 107, 442
minor, 612

tricolor Hose Queen, 285
tricolor, varieties of, 285
Coreopsis, annual and perennial, 563
laneeolata, 362, 657
lanceolata, floweis of, 56S
tinctoria, 43
Cornflower, 476
Cornflowers, 227, 441, 613
Corn, mixed, for poultry, 395
Corn salad, 20
Coronilla glauca, 444
Correas, 305
< otoneasters, 212
Crabs, Siberian, 396
Cramp in chickens, 631, 666
Cranberry culture, 524
Crassulas, culture of, 432
Crataegus parvifolia, 212
Cream and cheese, 202
to make marble, 406
Creels, Irish, 676
Creeper, flowering, 635
for thatched roof, 404, 472
Creepers, annual, for trellis-work, 654
fernery, 260

hardy bright-flowered, 696, 614
wire frame for, 581
Cricket ground, renovating, 613
Crickets and cockroaches, 411
in stove house, 66-1
Crocus, autumn, 542
Buryi, 547
bulbs, 454
Crocuses, 13, 583
after flowering, 100, 116
after blooming, 248, 265
and birds, 691, 029, 642
and mice, 480, 510
and Snowdrops, 456
taking up, 109
Crops, permanent, 460
rotation of, 460
Crown Daisies, 336
Cucumber a vegetable, 10
Bonneuil, large white, 169
large white, 109
small Russian, 182
squirting, 49
the best, 21
yellow Dutch, 182

Cucumbers, 97, 117, 153, 266, 232, 313,
338, 376, 415, 617, 686, 664
culture of, 36
early, 551
fertilising, 182, 234
growing, 328
hotbed for, 5
in cold frames, 157
in frames, 154
not swelling, 169
raising, 24, 34
renovating, 220
ridge, 71

thrips on, 184, 206
turning yellow, 184
winter, 250
Currant, the Red, 550
Currants and Gooseberries, 551
cutting, 4
for market, 353
insects on, 225
on w'alls, 225

propagation of Red and White, 225
Red and White, 225

training and pruning of Red and White,

225

varieties of Red and White, 226

Currant bushes, Black, bud on, 683, 615
Black, planting, 430
old, 224

Red, green grub on, 662
summer pruning, 189. 234
Custard, an economical, 2:.6
a simple, 495

Cut-throats, breeding, 676, 065
Cuttings, 506, 600
fruit trees from, 7
striking, 005

Cycads, Tree Fern, and Banana, 539
Cyclamen, 620
autumn-flowering, 3
European, 3
hedererfolium, 2
in unheated greenhouses, 2
Ivy-leaved, 2
A eapolitanum, 2
Persian, 2
persicum, 2
spring-flowering, 3
w inter-flowering, 3

Cyclamens, 6, 58, 152, 280, 324, 456, 507
after blooming, 102, 120, 199
autumn, 443
dying, 316
European,2
hardy, 2

in glasshouses, 46
in w inter, 464
Persian, in winter, 352
seedling, 6, 293

summer treatment of, 043, 650, 663
Cydonia japonica, 10C
Cyperus Papyrus, 579
Cypress, avenue of, 625
Cypripedium spectabile, 606
Cytisus fllipes, grafting, 510
purpureus, white variety of, 433
raeemosus, out of doors. 137

D

D ACTYLOPIUS Adonidum, 213
Daffodil, early dwarf, 43
the great, 505
the Tenby, 114
Daffodils, 94, 227, 410, 683
a group of, 95
in pots, 102
not flowering, 116, 152
single turning double, 130
where to plant, 546
wild, 564

Dahlia cuttings, 31, 40
double, 628

how to propagate the, 563
Dahlias, 4, 117, 139, 237, 317,337,353, 470,
580

Cactus, 605, 642

double, for open garden in London. 042.
652

exhibition, 596, 609
from cuttings, 441, 464
from seed, 4, 363, 405
in a Lancashire garden, 453
in the open ground, 531, 548
lifting and wintering roots of, 336
pot roots of, 591, 610, 624
single, 350, 363, 374, 405, 442, 472, 482,
503, 513, 514, 613,641,
single, from seed, 55. 612
single, pegging down, 002
single, sowing seed of, 634
sowing from seed, 4
storing, 514

storing tubers of, 862, 405
thrips on, 359
tying out, 287
wintering roots of, 433
with had centres, 405, 411
Daisy, Crown, 241
culture, 546
double w hite, 680
Daisies, beds of double, 96
Crown, 43, 330
destroy ing law n, 565
garden, and how to grow them, 17.1
Michaelmas, 362, 442
on law ns, 40, 658
Paris, 57, 245
roots of, on lawn, 359
to divide roots of, 174
Dandelion, 589
Daphne Blogayana, 5
Cneorum, 208
Indian, 556, 570
indiea, 556, 570
Mezereum, 534, 564
sweet-scented, 481
Daphnes, 554
in glasshouses, 15
Datura Knightii, 364, 399
Daturas, 335, 399
Decoration, church, 359
church, flowers for, 370
indoor, evergreens for, .'536
table, foliage for, 378
Delphinium Ajacis, 440
nudicaule, 658

Delphiniums, 90, 206, 209, 470
and Pyrethrums, 409
Dentaria polyphylla, 531
Desfontainea, 554
Dessert, Apples for, 369
Deutzia crenata flore-pleno, 234, 257, 25
double, 234, 258
gracilis, 450, 580
gracilis, propagating, 222
Deutzias, 132
treatment of, 464

fram

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Dianthua barbatus magniflcus, fl.-pl.,

(557

caucaaicus, 273
rientosus, 273
diadematus, 627
superbus, 273
sylvestris, 273
Dictomnus Fraxinolla, 216
Dictionary of garden flowers, GG4
“ Dictionary of Gardening, Illustrated,"
656

Dielytra, out-of-doors, 68
spcclabilis, 44, 50, 56, 108, 335, 404 , 565,
591

Dielytras in pots, 78
Diervilla trifida, 212
Diosma ericoides, 538
DipIadenLa amaena, 391
Dipladenias, 47‘6
for supplying cut flowers, 391
Disease, Black Currant, 448
in English Orchids, 592, 614, 029
in fowls, 630
of poultry, 604
Division and renewal, 505
Dorking and Spanish cock, cross between,
544

Doronicums, the, 564
Doves, ring, 384, 423
Draewna congest* and rubra, 443
for rooms, 488
grove in the Stilly Isle*, 385
Dracaenas, pink-coloured, 673
Drawing, plain, work on, 675
Duck, roast, vegetarian, 334
Ducks, Cayuga, 422
not hatching, 202
Dutchman's pipe, 506

E ARWIOS, 242
Echeveria me

-1-! Echeveria metallic*, 361
retusa, 398

Echeverias, culture of, 531
in winter, 672
propagating, 299
Echinops ruthenicus, 442
Edelweiss, treatment of, 205
Edgings and walks, 446
clipping Box and Ivy, 40
concrete, 576
for gardens, 5
for garden walks, 35
for paths, 133
for walks, 160
relaying Box, 8
stone, 412, 479, 522
stone, natural, 536
to transplant, 15
Egg flip, 347
Egg plant, 347
Eggs, fertility of, 396
in wdnter, 480

Elder flower water, 111, 137
Elder, the variegated, 582
Endive, 207, 870, 517
and Lettuce, 266
Batavian, 24, 328
culture of, 282
Epacris, 662
Epacrises, 456, 643
culture of, 154
Epilohiums, 373
Epiphvllums, 456
culture of, 398, 538
Equisetum Telmateia, 374
Erica camea, 94, 664
Cavendishiam, specimen o/, 4S9
einerta, 499
hybrida, 241
hyemalis, 6
Ericas, 662
varieties of, 490
Erpe.tion renifunne. 409
Erysimum Peroffskianum, 502
rhatUcum , 427
Erysimums, the alpine, 427
Erythrina CrUta-galli, 585
Escallonia macrantha, 635
macrantha os a covering for walls,
640

Philippiana, 257
Escallonia*, 554
Eschscholtzias, 4S4
Espalier into standard, 578
Essex, Fig trees in, C59
Eucalyptus, 135
globulus, 531
Eucharis, 447, 627, 638
amazonica, 398, 580
amazonic* planted out, 463
Candida, 5, 580
flowering, the, 21
Lilies, 432
Sanderi, 277
the sin ilt-jUrwered, 5
Euonymus as a wall plant, 379
latifolius, 329
Euonymuses, 212, 414
propagating, 553
Eupatorium odoratissimum, 580
Eupatori urns, 120
Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora, 432
Euphorbias, 29
and Poinsettias, 414
Eurya latifolia variegata, 19
Evergreens, 146, 879
for indoor decoration, 330
to flower this year, 635
transplanting, 6
Everlasting flowers, drying, 383
preserving, 407
Everlasting Peas, 580

F ABIANA imbricata, 420
Fairy rings, 034
Felt for hot-water pipes, 395
Fern case, Orchids for, 249
Fernery, a cheap, 127
and rockery, hardy, 370
a rock garden, 80
climber for small, 58
rats in, 36
small glass, 638

Ferneries and their arrangement, 497
Fern roots, dividing, 432
miniature basket, 203
Stag’s-horn, 444
the common Brake, 164
Tree, Banana, aiul Ci/cads, 639
Ferns, 56, 96, 228, 280, 456, 551, 691, e30,
055

and Palms, 4

British, in winter, 403

crisped Hart’s-tongue, 547

cutting down, 492

dividing roots of, 451

dwarf-growing, 237

exotic, group of, 497

filmy, 516

flhny. on walls, 260

for cool greenhouse, 605

for cutting, 120

for glass cases, 72

growing in cool greenhouses, 9*2

nardy, 35, 165

hardy, for waterside, 152

in rooms, 158

insects on, 174, 635

Maiden-hair, 120, 352,650

Maiden hair, cutting down, 402

not appearing, 664

potting soil for, 664

repotting, 418, 436

seedling, 261

shrivelling, 214

soil for potting, 120

spores of, sowing, 93, 120

the Australian Bird's Nest, 58

treatment of, 262

Tree, 93

Tree, in Australia, 473
watering, 120
watering overhead, 182
watering Tree, 59

Feverfew, the old double white, 471
Fever Gum tree, 484
Ficus elastic*, 444
Figs, 166, 549
cultivation of, 159
forcing, 368
in pota, 369

making border for, 363
out of doors, 26
propagation of, 369
protecting in winter, 169
varieties of, 159, 369
watering, 159
Fig tree culture, 358
fruiting, 661

Fig trees, culture of, in pots, 550
in Essex, 659
insects on, 368
on back walls, 461
on the South coast, 509
propagation of, 159
stopping young wood of, 368
training, 159
transplanting, 159
winter pruning, 368
Filbert trees, pruning, 635
Fish breeding in aquariums, 347, 372
for aquarium, 295, 319
gold, 612

in aquarium, fungus on, 527
Flame Flower from seed, 349
Flame Flowers, the, 322, 362
Flat Conican Oourd, 182
Flax, Blue perennial, 217
New Zealand, 232, 275
showy, 397
winter-blooming, 498
yellow winter-blooming, 611
Flower, alpine, grown i.< pan, 624
Flowers all the year round, 109, 275
and Grapes together, 598
arrangement of, 72
arranging in baskets, 91
basket of cut, 91
blue, 152
blue spring, 107
border, notes on some, 595, 627
China Asters as cut, 39
cut, for profit, 21
dictionary of gartfen, 664
easilv-grown winter, 431
everlasting, drying, 382
everlasting, prose A'ing, 407
for border, 662
for bouquets, 010
forced, 487

for churc h decoration, 870
forcing, 33

for cottage garden, 21
for hollow, 641
for north aspect, 614
for sunny border, 369
for winter bouquets, 679
garden, 240
garden and wild, 293
good September hardy, 267
hardy, 90, 324, 400
hardy, culture of, 18
hardy foliage for, 94
hardy, for cutting, 231, 263
hardy, planting, 349
hardy, selection of, 359

Flowers, hardy, sowing seeds of, 287
hardy spring, 481 «

hardy winter, 440
improving, 252
in winter, 392
miscellaneous, 482
near vinery, 585, 590
of summer, 230
packing, 98
packing cut, 160
planting a garden with, 2S3
planting out, 054
propagation of hardy, 229
scentless, 264
sowing seeds of, 110
spring, 817, 594
spring, and Roses, 487
tne hardiest spring, 545
two pretty wild, 189
useful for cutting, 409
Flowers, mse of, 127
white, tor cutting, 580, 657
winter, 1
Flower batk't, 59
baskets, 69
Flower beds, 104
winter dressing, 340
Flower t>orders, mixed, 323, 58*2
Flower bu<is, best for cutting, 295
Flower garden, Tobacc-o plants for, 18
Flower pots, sizes of, 73
Flow er shows in London, amateurs’, 18
in Glasgow, notes on, 415, 434
schedules of, 610
village, 282

Flower vases, filling, 127
Flv, green and black, 377
In Celery, 268

on Chrysanthemums, 252, 282
on Onions, 293
on Pansies, 252
the Carrot, 241
the Onion, 241, 268

Flies and insects in Mushroom houses, 251
in vinery, 160

Foliage arrangement, simple and effective,
329

for table decoration, 378
Forcing, early, 352
Forget-me-Not, 108, 583
creeping, 585
(he early, 531
Forsvthia suspensa, 582
Fowi-house, 423
manure from, 692, 615
Fowlhouses, roof for, 847, 384
Fowl, unhealthy, 307
the Minorca, 63
Fowls, Andalusian, 495
and Privet berries, 604, G18
and wind eggs, 631
bantam, 254, 627
l»est, 52

l>est breed of, 202
black, 269

boiled grain for fattening, 544

cause of sudden death of, 62

cross-bred, 242, 495, 644

diarrhma in, 62

disease in, G30

early pullets, 63

faculty of imagination, 202

feather-eating in, 254, 333

feeding, 423

for eggs and flesh, 283

for laving, 466

for winter laying, 32

getting fat, 465

Guinea, 423, 452, 643

lloudan dying, 202

Houdans ill, 88

how to cure diarrhoea in, 32 *

leg weakness In, 32, 76
losing their feathers, 123
moulting, 242
not laying, 76
perches for, 423
Plymouth Rocks, 254
Privet berries injurious to, 666
shedding feathers, 576, 590, 604
Spanish, 404
trespassing, 147
vermin on, 307
with sore eyes, 123
with sore necks, 307
with sores on legs, 269, 295
Fowls* manure, 369, 382
throat, rattling in, 333
Foxgloves, tall. 217
woodliee eating, 359
Frames and pits, 16, 34, 165
and pits, Strawberries in, 1S8
and pits, vegetables In, 4
Tomatoes in, 7
ventilating, 180
woodliee In, 01, 75
Franco* ramosa, 262, 35S
Fraxinella, 216
Freesia, seeds of, G38
Frementy, 495

Fringe Tree of the United States. 212
Fritters, almond and custard, 160
Frost, protection from, 691
Fruit, hush, 649
bush, for market, 358
culture of, 7, 48

culture, R. Gilbert’s papers on, 659
gathering, 305

K thering and keeping, 338

rdv, 16, 07, 163, 266, 281, 289, 317, 325,
388, 429, 467, 488, 501, G5G
miscellaneous, 433
of the season, 635
outdoor, 223
packing, 434
planting, 305

Fruit, pruning bush, 430
w ild, for decoration, 886
Fruit tree borders, top dressing, 401
borders, watering, 314
for cast aspect, 524
protectors, 141
Fruit trees, 488, 530
and bushes, pruning, 635
canker in, 77, 390
canker on, 536
cropping borders of, 20
cutting back, 890
disbudding, 390
for east aspect, 559
for north border, 279
for ornament, 48
from cuttings, 7
fruitful, 649

f ;lass copings for, 413
n pots, 356

liquid manure to, in winter, 524
manure for, 358, 402
moving, 802, 814
neglected, 563
not blooming, 92
on wall 105, 390
orchard and wall, 551
pinching young w ood of, 357
planting, 354, 309
protecting when in blooui, 58
protection for, 536
pruning and nailing, 389
regrafting, 598
renovating old, 486
root-pruning, 354, 401
spring and summer management of, 91
summer pruning of, 171
surface dressing, 354
to cut off superfluous growth, 139
undercropping, 430
unseasonable flowering of, 536
vertical forms of training, 633
wash for, 605
watering, 244
winter dressing, 370
Fuchsia, flowers falling off, 230
Lord Beaconsfield, 316, 457
procumbens, 427
procumbens in fruit, 342
refracta alba as an annual, 571

M / ElVl

Fuchsias, 128, 165, 223, 237, 240, 383
a few good, 201, 558
at rest, 510
buds falling off, 392
from seed, 009
in pots, 592

in the open ground, 440
not thriving, 638
old, 606

propagation of, 230
thrips on, 293, 816
to flower late, 188
wintering, 353, 399, 407, 432
Fungus, block, 98
on fish in aquarium, 527
w hite, 407

Funkia gr&ndiflora, 580
Funkias, 208

G AILLARDIA grandiflora, 595
GaiUardias, 163
Galega officinalis, 217
Galtonia candicans, 264
Garden, a modern Rose, 13
a natural bop, 521
a Staffordshire rock, 175
a suburban, 187
at Hampstead, 83
at Weyhridgt, 107
crops and mice, 79
design, 8

design, improvement in, 145
draining a, 75

eight years’ rotation of crops for
kitchen, 84
front, plants for, 265
insects, notes on, 227
Westmoreland, view of, 459
Italian, in Surrey, 37
pests, hints on, 603
j Ian of, 231
plan of a London, 133
planting with flowers, 288
practice, principles of, 549
Prof, ssor Owen's, 81
rector}’, notes from, 425, 442
rock, and hardy fernery, 80
scrapers, 508
screens, 68

small, how* it was mode, 323
small, making the most of, 254
the natural soil of a, 285
the reserve, 484
walks, 395

Gardens, aphides in, 98
oats in, 344, 870
front plots for small villa, 162
grubs in, 86, 98
insects in, 60
laving out town, 133
moles in, 268, 306, 510
planning and planting small, 65
plants for small, 65
robins In, 859
rock, and slugs, 641
selection of site for fruit, 47
small, making and management of, 285,
297, 309
suburban, 83

suburban, household jiets in, C04
Vegetable; formation of, 381

Digitized fr,

Google

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING IL LUST KITED

IX

Gardens, window, 139
“ Garden Annual ’* lor 1885, the, 468
Gardening, cottage, book on, 677
(or profit, 430, 430
half-hardy, 401
in the North, 39
kitchen, made easy, 340
lessons in wall, 115
on the Grass, 544
on walls, 114
spring, 6S3
success in, 285
\ scant room (or, 510
window, 430

" Gardening, Illustrated Dictionary o(,”
060

Gtaosxnfo tuition, result of, 323
Gardenias, 50, 133, 305, 376, 428, 580
culture of, 78
forcing, 351
how to grow, 351
propagation of, 361
varieties of, 361
Garland Flower, the, 2J9
Garry a elliptica, 474
propagating, 289
Gaalime, 664

Gaslight and plants, 557
Gaultheria Shallon, 258
Geese, notes on, 462
Genetyllis tulipifem, 102
Gvnista sagittalis, 268
Genistas, 132
propagating, 170, 179
G tut Lana acaulis, 108, 203, 427
vema, 107

Geranium Armenum, 151
platypetalum, 42C
sylvaticum, flL-pl. f 657
v. Pelargonium, 416, 460
Geraniums and Calceolarias, bedding, 591
awl Pelargoniums, 504
bedding, 628
caterpillars on, 371
culture of, 581
for winter, 120
hardy, 179
insects on, 407
in window boxes, 627
in winter, 450, 44U
propagating bedding, 623
scented-leaved, 6

sweet-scented, 156

treatment of, 186, 199
turning to leaf, 627
white-leaved, 476
Zonal, 132,637
Gram, scarlet, 227
Gherkins, 71

Gilbert's (R.) practical papers on fruit
and vegetable culture, 659
Owhurvtine, 419
Gladiolus Colville! albus, 547
how to grow the, 439
Gladioli, 109, 117, 139, 207, 237, 337, 426,
680

and other bulbs, 655
failing, 442
from seeds, 28, 542
lifting and storing, 3 2
liquid manure for, 190
not flowering, 336
taking up, 116
taking up bulbs of, 109
Gladwin, the, 563, 004
wd-podt of, 563
Glasshouse, utilising, 577
Glasshouses, 116
plants in, 184

treatment of plants in, 173
Glaas, rolled plate, 542
Qlaiing, double, 21
gTec-nhouses, 664
Gleditsehia chinensis, 394
Globe flowers, 425 -

Thistle, 442
Gloxinia bulbs, 651
Gloxinias and Achimenes, 237
and their culture, 221
degree of heat for, 635
erect-flowering, 222
heat for, 600
insects on, 222
leaf cutting, 222
pendent, 222
potting, 064
propagating, 236
raising, 221
starting, 636
Goafs Rue, white, 217
Godetia, Lady Albemarle, 43
Godetias, 107, 441, 611
Golden Feather, double-flowered, 322
Golden Moneywort, 192
Gokiflnch moulting, 423
Goldfish, 612

Good King Henry', 578, 617
Gooseberries, 594
and Currants, 551
Cape, 26

caterpillars on, 50, 633
cutting, 4
dessert, 206
•ihibition, 205
lor markc-t, 358
?reen grub on, 616, 633
n *e* on, 331
on walk, 204
pyramidal, 204
*l«Ct, 314
•how, 59a, 616

Gooseberry, the, 204
Gooseberry trees, 536
and caterpillars, 37
bullfinches attacking, 503
caterpillars on, 164
green grub on, 562
pruning, 302

Gorse, transplanting, 542, 660
Gourds and their culture, 181, 132, 183
varieties of, 183
Grafting, crown or rind, 447
new varieties of fruit, 4
Rhododendrons, 6
Roses on brier stocks, 71
Grain, boiled, for fattening fowls, 544
Grape for open air, 588
Modresficld Court, cracking, 373
out-of-doors, 033, 054
Mrs. Pince’s Muscat, 562
Grapes, 591

and flowers together, 598
best black and white, 172
bottling, 290
colouring, 126
cracking,378, 490
culture of, 561
diseased, 224, 430
early forcing of, 279
for open air, 598
from house, weight of, 509
heaviest bunch of, 430
keeping, 332, 468, 486
not colouring, 358
ornamental, 137
packing, 339, 389, 434
preserving, in bottles, 502
shanking, 240
shrivelling, 262
gUnul for preserving, 562
thinning, 2S0
white, 430
Grape room, 406
vine, training, 633, G54
vines, neglected, 234, 244
washing, 591

Gross edges, clipping, 318
for shady places, 21
freeing from Moss, 21
gardening on the, 544
green, in London, 241
peat, forming, 370
planting Pampas, 152
seed, sow ing, 510
Grasses, ornamental, in )>ots, 343
Great St. Bruno's Lily, 208
Great Tew, Tiger Lilies in wild garden at,
651

Greenfly, 227, 382
cure for, 123
mixture for, 9
on Rose trees, 224, 2G8
Green grub on fruit trees, 562
Greenhouse, Acers in, 121
a good plant for cool, 102
a London, 53, 578, 000, 024
and stove management, 654
building a, 624, 645
colouring walls of, 559
construction of, 627
cool, 75

culture, plants for, 650
glazing, 123

heating, 31, 160, 406, 436

heating small, 420, 450, 455, 044, 655

mice in, 559

notes on heating a, 58

oil stove Jar heating, 656

Passion flow er for, 132

picturesque, 315, 406

plants for, 228, 599, 623, 637, 638

plants for shaded, 6

plants out-of-doors, 184

portable, 40

position for, 305

shaded, plants for, 344

shading for, 591

smoke, 616, 655

stage, plants under, 40

summer-blooming plants for, 249

the amateur’s, 336

ventilation, 656

Violets in, 44

what is a cold, 661

without plants in pots, 475

woodlice in, 60

Greenhouses, and surveyors, 31
ants in, 10
cool, 416

Cyclamen in unheated, 2
glazing, 664

growing Ferns in cool, 92
heating, 10, 568, 633
heating small, 507, 617, 652
non-picturesque, 332
plants for moulds in, 499
plants for shaded, 19
portable, and surveyors, 50
shaded, 316
small, 227
uuheated, 471
uses of, 21

Vines and Roses for, 572
Grevillea Preissi, 463
propagating, 87
robusta, 443

Grubs and Primroses, 150
and seeds, 87
and weeds, 375
catching, 135

cure for the Onion and Carrot, 133
in Apple trees, 188, 318
in gardens, 86, 98
in garden paths, 109
in new soil, 21

leather-coated, 40, 60, 233, 2CS
on Onions, 617

Digitized by

Go

o

gle

Groundsel, Tyerman’s, 245
Greens, 555
quick-growing, 674
Guava, the, 433
Guernsey Lily, 324
Guinea fowls, 423, 452, 543
Gum on Camellia leaves, 103
Gunnersbury Park, Acton, view in, 803
Gymnoctadus canadensis, 215, 575
Gypsophila paniculata, 657

H

H abrothamnus, 0

elegans, 381, 650

elegans out-of-doors in Scotland, 662
fascicularis, 45
not flowering, 19
Ilail, plant for, 662
Ilarclv border plants, 208
Ferns, 35, 165. 207
Ferns for shaded gardens, 211
for waterside, 152
flow ers, 96
for border, 79
narrow borders of, 163
foliage for hardy flowers, 94
fruit, 36, 97
plants, 117

plants for greenhouse, 53
plants for spring, 120
plants v. bedding out, 191, 218
Primroses, 164
Primroses in pots, 69
Primulas, 46, 164
trees in flower, 172
Harebell, broad-leaved, 481
mnicled, 481
Peach-leaved, 481
Hares, Belgian, 522
Haricots, 495

and their culture in France, 602
cooking, 111
Harp, .Cohan, 664
Harp&lium rigtdum, 245, 595
Heath, Cape, specimen of, 489
Pine-leaved, 499
Heaths, 446
and Primulas, 567
Cape, and their culture, 489
hardy, 499
propagating, 199
Heating greenhouse, 31, 53
greenhouses, 10
Iledaroma, 102
lied era canariensis, 4S5
digitata, 485
hastata, 485
htcida, 485
pedata, 485
Reegneriana , 485
Hedge, shrub for, 474
shrubs for, 332
and screens, 16
cutting young, 239
formation of, 341
garden, 258

Hedgerow's, ornamental, 216
Hedging, Pyrus myrobalana as, 653
Hedycmuins, culture of, 261, 353
Helenium Bolanderi, 274
grand iflorum, 658

Helianthemum rosmarinifolium, 1G4
Helianthemums, 217

Uelianthus annuus, proliferous bloom of,
287

argojihyllus, 322
multiflorus major, 245
Helichrysum rosmarinifolium, 453
Heliotrope, White Lady, 464
Heliotropes, 138, 364, 649
repotting, 38
Hellebores, 503, 531
as cut flowers, 541

Htlleborus Commerzienrath Binary, 503
niger, 572, 579, 580
niger from seed, 192
niger maximus, 580, 595
niger maximus aUi/olius, 367
Henbane, 634
Hen wasting away, 395
Hens and cnicks, milk for, 437
best food for, 423
roup in, 452
Hepaticas, 64, 583
Herbaceous borders, 4, 35, 223
plants r. the bedding system, 218
Herb beds, 240
Herbs, 117, 282, 325, 354
drying, 224

to make a fresh plantation of, 26
Hives, &c., cleaning, 631
improved bee, 11
queen less, 422
lloe and the rake, the, 555
Hoeing, importance of, 460
Holly hedge, 591
timber, 578
Hollies, 212

and Arundo conspicua, 433, 450
and Thorns, 445
removing seedling, 027
variegated, reverting to green type, 494
Holly tree, unhealthy, 036
Holly trees, 582
Hollyhock culture, 163
Hollyhocks, 40, 317, 470, 5S5
and leaf mould, 566
and other flowers, 302
diseased, 836
from seed, 387
treatment of, 302
Honesty, 472
Honey, 511

UN

Honey, extracting, 253
for’exhibition, 253
Honeydew, 511

Honeysuckle, a icinter-JU) veering, 635
blight on, 566, 677, 696
Honeysuckles, 356
Hops as manure, 21, SI
common, as a climber, 425
spent, 254

spent, as manure, 435
Horseradish, 336
destroying, 282
Horses' hoofs, parings of, 573
Horsetail, Giant, 374
Hotbed for Cucumbers, 5
frames, 9
leaves for, 559
how to make, 240
Hothouse, building a, 610
House, the propagating, 33
the retarding, 30
Houses, beetles in, 318
cleansing plant and fruit, 31
cool temperature of, 31
double glazing for, 21
for Roses. 26
heating, 617, 022, 631
late, 488

unheated plant, 33
Hoya, 206
carnosa, 450, 002
Hoyas, 98

Humea elegans, 322
Hyacinth bulbs, 41
Grape, 107

Hyacinths, 316, 580, 030
after flowering, 38, 44
and Tulips, 476
bulbs of, in winter, 483
for the greenhouse, 291
home-grown, 108
in pots, 179
in water, 605, 624, 638
permanently planted, 93

Roman^ 388'

Hyarinthus candicans, 309, 606, 585, 696,
613

candicans, is it sweet-scented? 677, 596,
640

Hybridisation, work on, 627
Hydrangea culture, 203
paniculata grandiflora, 252
stel lata, 559
Hydrangeas, 153, 499
cutting back, 427
in autumn, 287
not blooming, 261, 864
Hyjxricum replans, 262

X

I BERIS gibraltarica as a pot plant, 398
gibraltarica, in pots, 398
gibraltarica hybrida, 209
Ice in an aquarium, 544
Ices, 242

Imantophyllums, 476
and Azaleas, 399
and their culture, 570
Impatiens Sultani, 381
Inaica odorata, 431
Indian Com, Cobbett's, 477
Indiarubber, 444

Indiarubber plants, stopping growth of
005

Indigofera floribunda, 257
Insert destroyer, an, 633
food for chickens, 202
pests, 104
prevention of, 559
Insects, 1

and diseases of Apricot trees, 140
and flies in Mushroom houses, 251
destroying, 394
food plants injured by, 160
in Apple trees, 77
in canaries, 294
in cockatoos, 384, 425
in gardens, 60, 75
in Orchid houses, 30
notes on garden, 241
of Vines, 171
on cage birds, 333
on Cherry trees, 141
on Ferns, 635
on Geraniums, 407
on Peach trees, 122
on Pear trees, 395
on plants, fumigating, 568
remedies for, 123
TesticeUa, 128
Ionopsidium acaule, 18
Iris, 470

feetidissima, seed pods of, 653
Krelagc's netted, 641
reticulata, 564
reticulata in pots, 572
reticulata Krelagei, 641
the netted, 662
Irises, 374
dwarf, 654
finest, 629
from seed, 265
on the Grass, 17
Isle of Wight, climate of, 604
Ivy, Arrow-leai+d, 485
BirtVs foot, 485
Cape, 577, 610
cuttings, 642, 652
edgings, 295
Finger-leai'ed, 486
Glossy, 485 | jl fj-nm-i

Heart-leaved, 485

IVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING 1 LLUSTtM TED

Ivy, Irish, 485
leaves of, 485
notes on, 486
on brickwork, 72. 93
on Oak trees, 123
on walls, 631
propagating, 289
under trees, 187, 350
the Tree, 329

variegated, on rockwork, 301
various forms of, 485
Ivies, notes on. 172
variegated, 427

J AM, Plum, 334, 372

Japanese Groundset, 17
or Ramanas Rose, 224
Jardiniere with wire canopy, 581
Jasmine, the winter, for hedges, 565
Jasminum, Duchesse d'Orleans, 381
gracillimum, 30
nudifiorum, 531
Jelly, Apple, 334
Crab Apple, 424, 466
Medlar, 480
Red Currant, 296

Jessamine, the common white, 5S0
Jonquils, 410

Juglans regia laciniata, 394
July flowers, some, 217

K ale, 517

blanch

-TV. blanching Btula, 655
Kales, clubbing of, 24
variegated, 359
Kalmia latifolia, 555
Kalosanthes, 405
Kentucky Coffee Tree, 215
Kerria, variegated, 240
King plant, 022

King plants for table decoration, 622
Kitchen garden, 648, 648
bridges, 526

Kitchen gardening made easy, 340

Kniphofi&s, 471

Kohl Rabi, cooking, 575

L aburnum as a tree, 212

Lachenalias, 206, 388
Ladybirds and green fly, 200
Land,214
liming, 451

the preparation of, 460
Lantanos and Lasiandra macrantha,!
Lapageria alba, 573, 600, 610
alba failing, 491
not blooming, 399
rosea, 475

rosea, grow ing, 651, 664
shoots of, dying, 102
Lapagerias, 365
transplanting, 222
Larch, weeping, 645
Larkspurs, rocket, 440
select perennial, 547
tall branching, 582
Lasiandra floribunda, 035
floribunda without heat, 663
macrantha, 601
macrantha and Lantanas, 572
Lathyrus family, the, 355
grandiflonis, 397
Latin, learning, 464
Laurustinus, varieties of, 657
Lavatera trimestri*, 244
Lavender bushes, 614, 645
Lawn, Plantain and Daisy roots on, 3
sand, 407, 436
tennis ground, 646
view at Gunnersbury Park, Acton, 3
view at the Firs, Lre, near Loudon,
weeds, 28, 57

Lawns, 25, 35, 104, 128, 139, 854
and walks, 281
Daisies on, 40, 658
destroying weeds on, 565
formation of, 591
forming and repairing, 532
Plantains and weeds on, 375
renovating, 40
weeTs on, 170, 503, 039
weedy, 359
worms In, 10, 40, 382
Yarrow for, 293
Leaf mould. 214, 262
and Hollyhocks, 566
Leather jackets, 242
Leaves, green, 440
Leek,the Lyon, 617
Leeks, 117, 517, 575
growing for exhibition, 003, 020
Lemon and Orange trees, 598, 016
Leptosiphon androsaceus, 245
Leptosiphons, 245
Lettuce and Endive, 266
Bossin’s Cabbage , 313
Brown Cos, 454
for light soil, 402, 419, 431
Lamb's, 20
Summerhill, 366
Lettuces, 207, 318, 517, 655
Cabbage, 813
early, 517

Lettuces, good, 118, 200
sowing, 184
to blanch, 127
varieties of, 118
where to plant, 118
Leucojum »stlvum, 79
vernum, 513
Libonia floribunda, 326
Lichens on houses, 10
on Pear trees, 536
Lifting, 239

Ligustrura chinense, 258
Fortune!, 257
Lilac, Charles X., 801
white, 626
Lilacs, grafted, 301
in pots, 461, 499
Lilium, 627, 638

a n rat inn, 14, 226, 236, 250, 287. 802, 399,
464

auratum after blooming, 305
auratum, best time to |>ot, 326
auratum, bulb of, 085
auratum, culture of, 516
auratum, imported bulbs of, 463
auratum in the open air, 591, 614, 628
auratum, large bulbs of, 404
auratum, when should it be potted?
432, 499

candldum, 265, 287, 322, 5S0
giganteum, 515, 577, 614
longiflorum, 577, 589, 592
Scifia, and Narcissus, 606, G29
Lily, Arum, 464
drum, donble-spathed, 475
Arum, growing in a greenhouse tank, 45
Arum, not flowering, 37
Day, 232

Guemsev, 324, 418
of the Field, 427, 472
of the Valley, 414, 472, 4S2, 6S0
of the Valley bonier, 350
Scarborough, sect! of, 573
the Alamotco, 249
the Goldcn-royed, 14
the Guernsey, 260
the large St* Bruno’s, 179
the Nile, 531
the old White, 14
the Plantain, 580
the Royal Water, 131
the showy Japan, 14
the Spire, 264
the Tigtr, 15, 2S0
the White, 322
the White Trumpet, 15
the Yellow' Pond, 374
Trumpet, 443
White African, 287
Lilies, 94, 138, 337, 405, 409
are they herbaceous ? 547
Arum, 45, 500, 571
Arum, planted out, 417
Belladonna, in pots, 381
bulbs of, to plant, 15
culture of, 601, 621
culture of, in windows, 14
Day, 208
Eucharis, 432
for open border, 652, 027
for pot culture, 186
in frame, 650
in the open ground, 350
Madonna, 274
Martagon and other, 176
not starting, 58
of the Valley, 410
of the Valley for market, 189
of the Valley, grow Ing, 162
out of door*, 336
Plantain, 208
potting, 397, 398
repotting the bulbs of, 14
soil for potting, 573
the Torch, 362, 443
Tiger, 600

Tiger, in the wild garden. 651
treatment of, 614, 628
varieties of Martagon, 177
water, 131
white, 232
Lime. 634
and slugs, 10
for land, 147
Lime water, use of, 627
lAninanthemnm nymphcenlde*, 387
Limnanthes Douglasi, 189
Linaria reticulata, 245
Linncva borealis, 299, 654
Linseed beer, 214
Linuin grandiflorum, 612
provinciale, 217
trigynnm, 397, 610, 611, 620
Liquorice, 585

Liquorice plant, the, 535, 005, 629, 643
Lithospermum prostratum, 208, 058
Livlstona Hoogendorpi, 515
Loam, 214

Lobelia cardinalis, flowers of. 472
fulgens Victoria, 299
scarlet, 442

splendent, flowers of, 47*2
Lobelias, blue, 418
for cuttings, 79
from seed, 510
North American, 472
wintering, 262
Locality, 530
and soil, 256, 283
London Pride, 217
Lonirera fragmntisstma, 636
Loughborough boiler, 345, 420
Luculia gratissima, 381
gratissima in ]>ots, 450,

Lupine, blue, 375
Lupines, 375

Lupinus polyphyllus, S75
Lychnis chalcedonlea, fl.-pl., 657
double white, 209
vespertina, 209
Viscaria splendeni, pi., 659

M adonna uiies, m

Maggot, Celerv, 532
Maggots, 227
in Onions, 268, 282
Magnolia glauca, 257
not blooming, 500, 520, 534
Maiden hair fronds fading, 491
Manure, 457
artificial, 440
bone, 50

earth closet, CIS
fish as, 21, 31

for A*i>aragus, seaweed as, 577
for fruit trees, 358
for garden, 61

for herbaceous border, 436, 451

for plants, 9

fowls, 359, 382

from earth closet, 665

from fowl-house, 692, 615,

bops as, 21, 31

leather dust as, 170

liquid, 170

liquid, applying in w inter, 563
liquid, for Gladioli, 190
liquid, to fruit trees in winter, 524
of pigs for vegetables, 35
rabbit, 684

reducing bones for, 160
seaweed as, OOG
spent hoi* 485
sprats as, 577, 615
straw r. moss, 634. 664
waste paper as, 170
worms in, 21
Manures, artificial, 419
artificial chemical, 064
for bulbs, 18
for top-dressing, 10
yard, application of, 416
Manuring, 86
and trenching, 446
dwarf Roses, 72
Maples, Japanese, 455
Marguerite, double Aurora, 516
the blue, 571, 364
Marguerites, 219, 230. 409
under glass, 327
Marigold, dwarf French, 336
new French comj^ct goblet Aped, 337
Marigolds, 206
African, 482
t orn, 227
French, 48, 612
in autumn, 471
Marmalade, Orange, 63
Martagon Lily, a w hite, 217
Martvnia fragrans, 43, 672
Marvel of Peru, 374, 387. 411
Matricaria inodora, fl.-pl., 240
inodora, to propagate double, 82
Meadow Rues, 425
Mealy bug, the, 213
on Yines, 653, 654, 065
Meat, potted, 527
tainted, 63

Medeola asparagoides, 010
Medesia asparagoides, 578
Medlar, culture of the, 193
Medlar tree, pruning, 588, 598
Melon, the, 399
Honfeur, 181

Melons, 71, 153,165,207, 228,266, 281, 317,
325, 338, 567, 653, 659
culture of, 188, 200
diseases and insects of, 400
early, in pots, 467
earthing up, 400
flavour of, 400
for frame, 591
growing made easy, 615
grown without heat, 659
heat for, 106

heat, moisture, and shade for, 400
in frames, 7, 154, 196, 400
packing, 434
raising plants of, 399
setting the fruit of, 400
soil for, 399
temperature for, 400
w ater, in America, 119
n thout fire heat, 400
Memoranda for next year, 331
Mercury, 578, 617
Mertensia virginica, 115
Mesembryanthemum tricolor, 374
Mesembry an them urns in London, 40
Mespilus grand!florid, 329
Mice and Crocuses, 480, 510
and garden crops, 79
and Peas, G, 21
in greenhouse, 559
killing, 93

r. Peas and Beans, 604
Michaelmas Daisies, 302, 442
Mignonette, 117, 216, 388, 500
for winter, 364
in conservatory, 214
indoors, 260
in pots, 19, 418
wild, 531
new and old, 685
Mildew in open air, 882
Milk, curdled, 372
for hens and chicks. 437
Milla biflora, 271

Milla biflora for cut flowers, 2G4
Mimuius tnosebatus ruber, 201
Miniature basket Fyrn, 2tO
Minnows In aquariflm, 295
Mint, green, 455
Mistletoe, 157
on Apple trees, 50, 154
propagating, 627, 639, 052
Mixture, 634, 653
Mock Oranges, 258
Moles, 50, 76, 420
in gardens, 268, 306, 510
their mischief r. their utility. SS3
Moneywort, Golden, 94
Monthretia Pottsi, 44
Mont d’Or, or Butter Beans, 223
Moricandia sonrhifolio, 93
Mortar rubbish, 634
Moss for Orchids, 572
freeing grass from, 21
on law ns, 266
Mosses, Club, 156

Moulds in greenhouses, plants for, 499
Mow ing machine, 695, 619
Mulberries, 370
culture of, 198

Mulberry tree not grow ing, 509
young, 224
Mulching, 506
plants w ith stones, 214
tan os a, 332
v. watering, 282, 290
what is it? 575
with stones, 259
Musa Cavendishii, 433
plant, 577

Muscari botryoide*, 107
botryoides album, 564
Musk, 490
in Rose bed, 179

Mushroom houses, flies and injects in

251

woodlice in, 84
Mushroom, section of true, 205
spawn, 518
spawn, good, 589
true, 205

Mushrooms, 205, 532
easy culture of, 251
growing in sheds, 556
growing, small work on, 675
in boxes, 220
in cave, 647
in cellars, 239, 284, 647
in sheds, 382
not grow ing, 25
without R|ww n, 20
Mussel scale, 377
Myosotis, 583
and Aquilegia, 591
dissitiftoro, 108, 531, 630
dissitiflora alba, 680
Myrtle, sicklv, 578, 609
Myrtles, 450, 516
not flow ering, 887
pruning, 538

N arcissus, 001

dubius, 580
early, 061

Lilium, and Scilla, 606, 029
maximus, 505, 585
minor, 664
pocticus, 549
the Poet's, 549
Narcissi, 602, 630
bulbs, 131,
not blooming, 192

potting up, for indoor decoration, 463
Nasturtium, Flame, 531
w reath, 425, 531
Nasturtiums, 682
double, propagating, 374, 892
Tom Thumb, 373
Nectarines, 129
and Peaches, 24S, 266, 323
good, 443
splitting, 402, 463
stones of, splitting, 36S
Nemophila insignia, 107
Nerine Fothergilli, 418
Nests, wasps’, 395
Nettles os a vegetable, 427
New pan suspender, 213
New Zealand Flax, 275
hardiness of, 216

New Zealand plants from seed, 450
New Zealand Speedwells, 805
Nicotiana atfinis, 5, 103, 404
hardiness of, 131
out of doors, 330, 350
wintering, 353
Nierembergias, 304
Nile Lilly, the, 531
Nitrate of soda for plants, 60
Nuphar ad vena, 374
lutea, 311
Nuts, Cob, 650
for market, 853
Kyrferinia selaginoides, 245

O BITUARY, Mr. C. W. Shaw, 600
Odontoglosmm crispum, tHkl
(Enotheta Fraseri, 658

(Enotheta Fraseri, 658
montana, 239
Oil stoves, 406, 620
Oleandftrst pruning, 432, 464

Digitized fr.

Googli

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATE J)

XL

Ulearia And Choisya, 664
or Kurybia, Haasti, 212
Omphalodes vema, 108, 5S5
Onion fly, 268

Onunw. 117, 173, 266, 318, 517
and ninott, 282
and their culture, 173
autumn-sown, 574
culture of, .574
flr od, 293
Giant Zittau, 323

Globe-shaped, for exhibiting. 613
grub on, 617
Urge v. small, 328
maggots in, 268
towing autumn, 203
sowing in autumn, 276
wiring on stiff soil, 336
varieties and diseases of, 574
Ouopordon A can th inn j, 483, 662
Orach, culture of, 635
orange and Lemon trees, 598, 610
oranges and Citrons, 414
orange tree losing its leaven, 69
Orange trees, large, 451
treatment of, 69, 93
Orchard house, the, 350, 60<>
drainage of, 356
filling, 563

general management of, 357
Orchard houses, 16, 71,153, 243, 325, 366,
457

Orchard, the ideal, 48
Orchards, 48, 354
Unhid, n cool house, 47, 669
a gvod winter flowering, 47

< Lrchids, cool, 30, 538

dUture of, 58. 92
Hast Indian, 199
Epiphytal, 30

English, disease in, 592, 614, 029
for even garden, 640, 600
for Fern case. 249
from seed, 638
list of cool, 31
mos* for. 572
spot on, 353
Orchid house, 30
Otrhis, British, 163
Irtifolio, 229
maculata, 55
maculata, white, 216
tnaseulu, maculata, and mario, 120

< 'mithogaium nutans, 94
«'thonna crassifolia. 444
Oiah* cemua, 59

luteo, 362

P .450SIES, 208, 409
herbaceous, 470
not flowering, 28
Paint for shed, 542
Pahn. a graceful, 649
Chusan, 373
Palms, 444, 594
culture of, 509
tfecorotiw, 515
dying, 93
greenhouse, 375
m flower, 192
Pampas Grass, 427, 062
PancraUums, culture of, 064
Panicum variegatum, 4(4
Pansy election, 651
propagation of, 229
Pansies, 4, 15, 46, 117, 129, 206, 275, 281,
317, 324,358, 434, 470, 583. 641, 058
and Violas, 248
best sorts to grow, 435
eaten off, 135
fancy , 651
*>’ on, 138, 252

for exhibition, 39, 40, 44, 3G3

for late autumn bed, 174

for spring bedding, 50, 56, 68

from seed, 274

growing, 642, 664

lists of, 435

planting out, 659

propagating. 44

r «i spider on, 566, 585

show, 40, 68, 651

small, 189

to keep in full flower, 179
to raise from seed, 434
varieties of, 130
Pipaver nudicaule, 321, 425
orientate, flowers of, 349
Paper Retd of the Ancient*, 579
Prwnu, the, 579, 627
Paraffin oil, 109
and petroleum, 479
and slugs, 635

Parakeets breeding in winter, 63
Paris Daisies, 57, 245

PaiTot, grey, 423
plucking her feathers, 03, 111
unwell, 214

r with swelled beak, 347, 372
Parrots losing feathers, 576
Parsley, 655

culture of, 24,34, 250
Pvwlp root, enormous, 529
P^nips, large, 574
storing, 382

Partridge Cochins, 570
rwiflora edulls, 434
•'aaaon flower for greenhouse, 132
m open air, 109
n <* blooming, 311

KS**f ; 293

Digitized by

Go 1

Passion fruit. 434
Pastry, Spanish, 160
Pavia macrostachya, 314
Pea. American Wonder, 647
early Paragon, 449
early Sunrtse, 263
main crop, 431
the earliest, 430
Peas, 4, 25, 117, 139, 492, 517
and Beans r. mice, 604
and birds, 103
and mice, 6, 21
and sparrows, 10, 75
autumn, 382
best market, 430
early, 206, 394, 457
everlasting, 240
garden, 507
good late, 313

{ preen, to preserve, 296
ate, 30, 85, 90, 105, 431
not growing, 648
on iron hurdles, 592, 648
picking, 206, 220
planting, 634
preserving from birds, 7
second early, 430
sowing, 617
sweet, 107

to protect from sparrows, 91
tall v. dwarf, 493
wire supports for, 282
without sticks or hurdles, C44
young, 97

Peach and Nectarine, characteristics of
the, 121

culture of the, 122
forcing the, 312
leaves of, blistered, 200
life history of, 342
Peaches, 129, 153, 237, 825
and Nectarines, 248, 266, 333
and Nectarines, planting, 121
culture of, 562
falling off, 370
from seed, 302, 314, 370
gathering the fruit, 122
pocking, 434
under glass, 508
varieties of, 123
varieties for late houses, 342
weight of, 448
when to prune, 7
Peach border, to raise, 154
Peach house after fruiting, 577, 599
the early, 311
the late, 341

Peach houses, ants in, 200
laW, 234

Peach tree not fruiting, 141
Peach trees, black fly on, 73
insects and diseases of, 122
leaves failing from, 172
protecting. 598
protecting the blossom, 122
pruning, 26

pruning and training, 342
transplanting large, 122, 877
value of maiaen, 341
Pear, Louise Bonne of .Jersey, 902
Marie Louise, 390
Pears, 89, 153, 549
and Apples, 338
and Apples, gathering, 302
choice, 370
early, 244

examples of vertical training for choice,
633

for stewing, 597
gathering and storing, 101
grafts of, 633

now they bear their fruit, 413
on walls, 89
Palmette Vender, 89
propagation of, 101
summer management of, 90
thinning the fruit, 90
varieties of, 102
wasp-eaten, 332
winter management, 101
Pear tree, protecting the blossoms, 101,

unfruitful, 524, 036
Pear trees, 166

and Apple trees, branches of unprvned,

413

budding, 102
cordon, 89
espalier, 89
insects on, .995
insects and diseases of, 101
large, 659
lichens on, 596
pyramid, 89
standard, SO
unfruitful, 461
Peat, 214, 344
Peel, candied, 400
Pelargonium v. Geranium, 416, 460
Pelargoniums, 4, 138, 237, 248, 2^0, .924,
405, 431, 476, 580, 053, 065
and Geraniums, 504
cultivation of, 573
disease in, 188
double Ivy-leaved, 120
double zonal, 179
dwarf double-flowered, 278
for next winter, treatment of, 183
in glasshouses, 15
in greenhouse, 627
Ivy-leaf, for greenhouse, 605
potting, 120
preserving old, S99, 432
propagating bedding, 232
select. 222
show Ind fancy, 104

show tnd fanev, 1

ogle

Pelargoniums, specimen, 353
tric olor, 287

w inter-flowering, 341, 392, 514
zonal, 376, 476, 630
Pentstemon Murrayanus, 27
I’cnstcmons, 206, 274, 286, 3*24, 302
and Phloxes, 317, 409
and their culture, 612
notes on, 55
seedling, 39, 5S5
Perennials, hardy, 654, 65S
hardy, some select, 657
soil for, 10, 21
Periploca graeca, 258
Periwinkles, tender, 327
Pernettya mucronata, 106, 212
Petroleum and paraffin, 479
Pets, household, In suburban gardens, 004
Petunias, 96, 138, 195, 364
double, 293

growing, for exhibition, 00 5
propagating, 262
raising from seeds, 131
seedling, 299

Ph®nocoma prolifera, 491
Phsonocomas, 58
treatment of, C
Phlomis fruticosa, 258
Phlox Drummondi, 583
Drummondi grandiflora, 43, 107
Nelsoni, 208
subulata, 583
verna, 583
Phloxes, 4, 207
and Pentstemons, 317, 409
failure of, 310, 404
leaves of, curling, 109
perennial, 469
to propagate in spring, 39
Phormium ten&x, 232
Phygelius capensis, 442
Ph.vsalis Alkekengi, IS
edulis, 434

Physianthus aliens, 363
Pieea nobilis, 650
nobilis from seeds, 664
Pickles, mixed, 4S0
Picotee as it is, 519
florist's ideal, 519
Picotees, 337, 435

and Carnations, 2SS, 317, 353, 442, 519,
635, 612, 652

Carnations, and Pinks, 336
dying off, 363
or Carnations, 374
propagation of, 230
Pie, Apple, 396
rabbit, 423

Pies, Apple, flavourings for, 424
mince. 527

mince, w ithout meat, 544
pork, 527
Pigeon, 452
Pigeons, Jacobin, 372
Pigs : do they pay? 12, 5*2,02, 111, 137
for fattening, 276
Pillars, 356
Pinching plants, 222
Pine-apple, the, 392
Pines, houses for, 392
insects on, 394

management of fruiting plants of, 393
packing, 484
planting out, 393
propagation of, 393
successional plants of, .393
temperatures for, 394
varieties of, 394
watering, 394
Pinguicufa hirtiflora, 541
Pinguioulas, 541
Pink, Austrian feathered, 273
Caucasian, 273
Sand, 273
the Maiden, 273
the garden, 229
toothed, 273
white, Mrs. Sinkiu’s, 232
Pinks, 139, 274, 275, 317, 337. 435, 470
alpine, 273
and Carnations, 24S
and spiders, 216
Carnations, and Picotees, 336
for forcing, 3S6
Indian, 4.3
late-struck, 322
Mule, 245

propagation of, 230
treatment of, 109
Piiies, hot-water, 601
hot-water, cement for, 665
hot-water, felt for. 395
jointing, 576

water not circulating in, 40
Pits and frames, 15. 34
and frames, v egetables in, 4
Plan of garden at Mnnrtrad, *23l
Plant, a good, for a greenhouse, 102
a pretty carpeting, 27
a pretty rock, 531
arrangement, 580
a showy greenhouse, 93
flow ering water, 027
for hall, 662

for sunny bank, a good, 233
ginger-beer, 437
name of, 345
the Aueuba as a pot, 47
the Liquorice, 53o
vagaries, 422

w all, the Euonymus os, 379
Plants, 469

a friend for amateurs, 19

after blooming, 252

after flowering, treatment of, 132

n 1 airfare of climbing, 355

Plants and gaslight, 557
and slugs, 641
arrangement of, 24C, 200
arrangement of bedding, 178, 192
bare at bottom, 288
becoming drawn, 30
bedding, 96, 117, 130, 174, 185, 248, 324,
370, 428, 456, 4S7, 520. 5*0
bedding, arrangement of, 24G
bedding, preserving in w inter, 58S
beneath trees, 441
best variety of, 038
Hue-flowered, 3
Castor-oil, 565

climbing, 139, 145, 265, 353, 483
climbing and tw ining, 355
climbing, for porch, 634
climbing, in country districts, 14C
climbing, to train, i73
cutting dow n after flowering, 500
dividing, 299, 311
casilv-grow n greenhouse, 540
fading In conservatory, 120, 109
failing, 156, 345
fine-leaved, 4
fine-leaved or tropical, 1
flowering, 146

food, injured by insects, 160

for aquarium, 512, 544

for Australia, 420, 450, 404

for back wall of vinery, 614

for bog garden, 3SG

for centre of bed, 472

forcing, 432

for clayey bank, 349

for cool greenhouses, 293

for dry soil, G43

for front garden, 265

for greenhouse, 699, 623, 637, 638, 650

for London greenhouse, 53

for IiOndon rockery, 635

for moulds in greenhouses, 499

for north window, 214

for Rhododendron beds, 274

for room culture, 72, 103

for screen. 477

for shaded greenhouse, C, 19, 344

for shady border, Cl

for shadv house, 103

for small gardens, 05

for spring and summer, 199

for stone walls, 239

for stumps of trees, 404

for sunless borders, 44, 56

for the conservatory, 96

for the conservatory, two, 516

for town, 652, 659

for trellis work, 293

for unheated greenhouses, 169

for verges, 87

for winter beds, 564

fumigating insects on, 563

good room, 002

good room and window, 158

greenhouse, 337

grown in gardens, 2S5

half-hardy bedding, 286

hardening off bedding, 132

hardening off for w inter, 471

hard-wooded, 375

hard-wooded greenhouse, 447

hardy, 117, 248, 271, 551, 002

hardy autumn-flowering, 311

hardy, culture of, 402

hardy, for London greenhouse, 53

hardy herbaceous, 470

hardy, under glass, 497

hardy v. bedding out, 193

hardy, why amateurs fail with, 204

heat for stove, 293

herbaceous, 138, 165, 435, 51

herbaceous, after flowering, 299, 31S

herlwvceous, notes on, 540

herbaceous, transplanting, 628

housing, 317

in flower, 426

in gardens, why they die, 156
in pots, greenhouse without, 473
in pots, top-dressing, 399
in rooms, 378, 444
in winter, preserving, 199
Japanese, 33

keeping from draught, 252
keeping in attics, 252, 318
manures for, 9
medicinal, 627
names of, 062

New Zealand, from seed, 450
nitrate of soda for, 60
noble, sub-tropical, 539
out-of-doors greeuhouse, 1S4
preparing for forcing, 33
propagating early flowering, 152
propagating horbaeeous, 299
propagation of stove, 1
purchase of, 458
raising in sand, 30
rare, for open-air cultivation, 130
right way of growing, 145
rock, 42G

rock, selection of, 4S4
specimen, 670
spring-flowering, 139
staking, 20, 138, 174
stove, 337,655
stove, heat for, 316
stove, in vinery, 19
stove, winter-blooming, 487
strong smelling, protective power of,
590, 600
succulent, 317

suitable for permanent cultivation in
rooms, 158

suitable for wlndowis, 1?3
summer-blooming, for greenhouse, 249

'ivpraw'ommois at

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Plants that bear crowding, 405
the selection of, 2S5
to avoid, on rock work, 504
Tobacco, for the flower gr.rden, IS
to propagate stove, 82
treatment of window, 113
under greenhouse stage, 37, 40
under trees, 27, 44, 404
varieties of stove, 2
vases for, 027, 052
watering, 91, 200
watering, in winter, 359
waterside, 373
when to sow Castor-oil, 18
window, in glazed pots, 571
window, notes on, 238
window, the best, 443
winter-flowering, 132, 407, 008, 020, 037,
648, 602
wintering, 353

wintering flower garden, 342
wintering in frames, 407, 432
without earth, 027, 050
wrong way of growing, 145
yellow-flowered trailing, 387
Plantain Lily, the, 580
Plantain on lawns, 359
the water, 374

Plantations, young, formation of, 401
Plant borders, herbaceous, 1S5
Plant houses, blinds for, 9
unheated, 33
Planting, 500

and planning small gardens, 05
autumn r. spring, 289
crops of vegetables, 153
Peaches and Nectarines, 121
season, the, 339, 410
vines, 7

Platan us striata, 394
Platycerium alcicorne, 444
Platycodon grandiflorum, 420
Platyloma rotundifolla, 432
Plumbago capensls, 392
capensis, repotting, 627
Larpenta*, 052, 658
Plum, Denyer’s Victoria, 314
Sandall's, 44

the double, for forcing, 538
the Wyedale, 562
Plums, 129, 153, 166, 549
as espaliers, 44, 58
cleaning, &c., 380
culture of, 184
in pot, 135
late, 338
on walls, 134
varieties of, 135, 380
Plum house, the, 380
Plum trees, healing l>ack old, 135
heading down, 134
insects and diseases of, 135
pruning, &e., 380
summer pruning, 134
training, &c., 380
Plymouth Rocks, 307, 384
Poinsettias, 29, 156, 432, 027, 630, 038, 649
and Euphorbias, 414
Pollen, 511

Polyanthuses, 93, 583
blue, 189, 212
deterioration of, 133
from seed, 17, 585
not flowering, 40, 65
propagation of, 230
Polyanthus Narcissi, 19
Polyanthus Primroses, 179
Polygonum sachalinense, 244
Pomegranate, 659
Pond, soil from, 654
Pontederias, 374
Poppy, alpine, 321
oriental, flowers of, 349
Poppies, Alpine, 321, 425
and Sunflowers, 405, 427
the oriental, 349
Portulacas, 611
Potato, the, 522
American sweet, 591
culture, Jensen’s, 620, 647
for exhibition, 664
the Fluke, 50

Potatoes, 4, 25, 281, 317, 517, 689
best kinds to grow, 523
best manures for, 522
change of seed of, 523
diseases of, 523
dividing and planting, 631
early, 479, 620
exhibition, 623
for exhibition, 648
for the table, 523
growing a second time, 340
lifting and storing, 270, 523
on heavy soil, 117
planting, 7, 105
preparing ground for, 522
preparing seeds of, 522
seed, 35

spring and summer culture of, 523
when and how to plant, 523
whole or cut sets of, 522
Pot-pourri, 111, 137, 202
Potting, 70, 336

Pots, large v. small, for Roses, 330
Poultry, best breeds of, 295
Brahmas, 70
breeding, 333
broody hens, 42
diarrhoea in, 52
disease of, 676, 604
farmyard, 148
feeding of, 611
for large run, 465
fowls giddy, 12

hen moving eggs/W^ 1

Digitized by VjOOQ«

keeping, does it pay ? 004, C18
keeping, to pay, 665
mixed com for, 395
moulting, 372
notes for June, 63, 147
pigeons dying, 111
run, 269

seasonable hints on, 627
seasonable notes on, 254, 34G, 384
sick, 76
water for, 544

Poultry house, floor for, 12, 030
Poultry houses, whitewash for, 030
Poultry run, size of, 423
Practice, principles of garden, 549
Primrose, hanhj, 69
mountain evening, 239
Siebold’s, 392
Primroses, 470, 471, 583
culture of Chinese, 37
double, 28
evening, 420
from seed, 17, 585
hardy, 104

hardy, from seed, 454
hardy in pots, 09
hardy v. Chinese, 565
raising from seed, 502
tall evening, 240
to divide roots of, 174
watering, 227, 264
Primula, double white Chinese, 580
double white, for cutting, 352
japonica, 13S, 596
rosea, 658

Sieboldi, 892, 631, 638
%Siebokli and its varieties, 578, 599
the Chinese, 609
verticillata, 19

Primulas, 6, 40, 70, 152, 248, 353, 365
after flowering, 121
and Cinerarias, 304, 431
and Heaths, 567
Chinese, 38, 40, 45
Chinese, summer treatment of, 198
double, and their culture, 578
double white Chinese, 514
hardy, 46, 164
not thriving, 638
seedling, 531

single and double Chinese, 678
sowing seed of, 658
to propagate double, 82
young,102

Privet berries and fowls, 604, 018, 606
Privet, Japanese, propagating, 289
the Chinese, 258
Privets, 350, 554

Propagating bed in greenhouse, 635
Propagating, book on, 627
double Matricaria inodora, 82
double Primulas, 82
early flowering plants, 152
Grevillea, 87
Hyacinths, 50
Pansies, 44
Pear trees, 101
Pinks, 220
Roses, 97
Seloginellas, 82
stove plants, 1, 82
tuberous Begonias, 82
Propagating house, the, 33
Prophet Flower, the, 015
Pruning, 606

fruit trees in summer, 171
overgrown Rhododendrons, 117
Peaches, 7, 26
trained trees, 77

Prunus Myrohalana as hedging, 658
Psidium Cattleiamuii, 433
I’terocarya caucasica, 394
Pudding, a wholesome rice, 63
bread-and-butter. 423
custard (superior), 149
railway, 575
rice, 384
roly-poly, 423
sponge-cake, 384
Yorkshire, 384
Pullets laying soft eggs, 307
Pumpkins turning yellow, 340
Pumps, thawing, 28
Putty, removing old, 20
Pyracantha, 634, 652
Pyrethrums, 96, 208, 470
and Delphiniums, 409
single, 287
Pyrus japonica, 106
Malus floribunda, 157

Q uestion, n legal, 662

Quince, culture of the, 193
Quinces, 1, 503

R abbits, diseased, 170

eating their young, 03, 111
Rake and the hoe, the, 555
Ramanas Rose, 224

Ramondia pyrenaica, a fine specimen of,
624

Ranunculus aconitifolius, 616
amplexicaulis, 240
Lingua, 874
Ranunculuses, 456, 683
planting, 631

jRaphiolepis japonica, 654

Raspberry canes, topping, 378, 390
Raspberry, the, 251
Raspberries, 7, 139, 237, 333, 520, 551
autumnal, 244
best, 278

culture of, 339, 358, 550
failing, 302
for market, 358
in autumn, 251
new plantations of, 251
preserving, 296
soil and situation for, 251
top-dressing and watering, 251
topping, 370
transplanting, 339
training, 251
varieties of, 251
Rats, 20, 390
in fernery, 36
Ra vena la, 639
Red Currant, the, 550
Red spider, 86, 242
destroying, 673
in vinery, 290, 318
on Pansies, 566, 585 .

Reed Grass, great. 373
New Zealand, 373
Refuse, vegetable, 354
Renewal and division, 505
Reseda lutea, 531
Retinos]x>ra dubia, 506
leidoclada, 566
Retinosporas, 566
Rhodanthe Mangles!, 186
Rhododendron beds, plants tor, 274
bloom, succession of, 567
exoniense, 637
• new (Treenhouse, 537
shrubs, 642

Rhododendrons, 156, 654, 573, 035
and leaf mould, 605
early, 538
from seed, 261
grafting, 6

greenhouse, 432, 470, 537, 571
not blooming, 394
planting large, 433
potting, 465, 494
pruning overgrown, 117
soil for, 455, 474
standard, 215
Rhubarb, 26
bursting, 91
culture of, 1S3
dying down, 157
forcing, 618
for forcing, 493
souffle, 149
Rhus glabra, 258
Rice, mould of, 148
mould, with stewed Rhubarb, 14S
Rivina humilis as a standard, 450
Rivinas in fruit, 449
Robinia hispida, 187
Robins in gardens, 859
Rockery and fernery, hardy, 370
London, plants for, 635
some plagues of the, 583
Rockeries, 484
Rockets, double, 232, 239
Rock garden, slug-proof, 641
Rock Roses, 425

Rockwoi k, plants to avoid on, 564
Room, vacant, for gardening, 510
Rooms, Camellias in, 336
Dracaena for, 488
plants in, 378, 444
Root pruning, a new w f ay of, 443
Roots, planting tuberous, 024
Rosa Centidiflorn, 141
Rose, A. K. Williams, 143
a winter, 593
Brunoniana, 529
Bmnoniana, finicer spray of, 529
buds not opening, 267
Celeste, 238, 302
Celine Forestier, 13, 382, 389
climbing Devon* ensis, 594
Cloth of Gold, 504, 529* G53
for greenhouse wall, 620 639
for wall, 345
garden, a modern. 13
Gloire de Dijon, 84 , 98, 141, 238,330,
474, 614

Gloire de Dijon as a standard, 180

Gloire de Dijon, In greenhouse, 053

Gloire de Dijon, on its own roots, 529

greenfly on, 224, 268

houses, 200, 225

La France, 314, 614

Mank-hal Niel, 464 , 587

Marshal Niel, in lean-to, 027

Marshal Niel, on greenhouse roof, 577

Marechal Niel. pruning, 508

moving, 225, 233

Niphetos, 313, 367

Persian Yellow, 587

pruning Devomensis, 563

Souvenir de la Malmaison, 529

Tea, Adam, 330

Tea, Hom&re, 529

the Cabbage, 330

the old pink China, 2S0

trees, 461

Victor Verdier, 382, 3S9
white, Baronne de Maynard, 330
Williams’ double yellow, 330
Roses, 4, 128, 338, 356, 406, 409, 447, 4G9,
476, 487, 497, 580
all the year round, 594
and Clematises, 335
and climbers, 653
and Rose elections, 83, 126, *225
and spring flowers, 487
and vines for greenhouses, 572
I autumnal, 144, 280, aoa UNI VERSIl

Roses, Banksian, 267 314, 653. 656
Baroness Rothschild and Mabel Morri¬
son, 330

beds and larders of indoor, 382
Bourbon, 144
budding, 26

hush in special beds, 141
Cabbage, 144
carpeting beds of, 307
China, 144

choice of, for beds, 142
Christmas, 28
classes of, 143
climbing, 144
cultivation of, 568

cuttings of, 26, 293,313, 330, 402, 401

474

cuttings of, in bottles, 610, 620, 653

cuttings of, striking, 486

dressing for, 293

dwarf and standard, 267

early, 418

election of, 36

enemies of, 168

exhibition, 145

for exhibition, 389

for greenhouse, 461

for greenhouse wall, 474

for London garden, 382, 389

for the North, 13

from cuttings, 71, 402

from seed, 368

garden, 141

grafting on brier stocks, 71
greenhouse, 26, 36
guano for, 154
gumming, 461

gumming for exhibition, 4*29

house for, 14

houses for, 26

hybrid Bourbon, 613

hybrid China, 634, 656

hybrid Tea, 267

in glasshouses, 2(13

in Peach house, 267

in pots, 70, 154, 474, 568, 587, 656

large r. small pots for, 330

leaves dropping off, 13

liquid manure for, 105

manuring dwarf, 72

Marlchal Niel, 75

multiflora, 144

Musk, 144

names of, 418

newly-planted, pruning and treatment
of, 656
Noisette, 144
not blooming, 252
notes on Rock, 168
of 1883, 7
old-fashioned, 638
on hock walls, 30
on north walls, 368
on seedling briers, 402
on trees, 224
pegged down, 224
perpetual, 382 389
planting, 418, 436, 474, 504
planting dw arf, 63
pot, 330, 474
(lotting, 474
propagating, 97

propagation of, by cuttings, 402

pruning, 520, 652, 668

pruning, notes on, 429

pure white, 252

removing, 635

removing old blossoms, 174

Rock, 425

running wild in shrubberies, 252

selection of, 102, 529

striking cuttings of, 53, 207

striking slips In bottle*, 71

svringitig on high walls, 104

Tea, 144, 267, 504, 687

Tea, and their culture, 552

Tea, best position for, 196

Tea, culture of, in winter, 693

Tea, cutting back, 677

Tea, in pots, 461

Tea, in winter, 620

Tea, on raised beds, 344

temperature for forcing, 418

the Ayrshire, 613

to mulch dwarf, 15

too many hybrid perpetual, 612

transplanting, 485

treatment of, 84, 38

treatment of clustering, 639

under glass, 49

unhealthy, 71

unpruned, 568

furious, 142

watering and mulching, 2C7
weak, 98
yellow, 587
Roup in hens, 452
RulAisfruticosus jwmponius, 341
spectabilis, 212
Ruubeckia Newmanni, 058
Rush, flowering, 374
Rushes and Sedges, 374
club, 874

S AGE, how to grow, 20
the Jerusalem, 253
Salads, sowing, 129
Salpiglossis to sow, 107
Salsify, 840
Salvia Bethelli, 442
riC Hatens, 635
Pitcheri, 352

nf r ©P*H2?IN0[S AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

XIII

Silvias, 366, 391
from seed, 4
propagating, 391
Sand. lawn, 407, 436
Sandwort, Balearic , in hole, in wall, 657
Sanvitalia procumbens, 43, 116, 380
Saponaria calabrica, 43
Satin Flower, the, *307
crimson, 545

Sauce, custard (superior), 160
Savoy, the, 640
Sivo's, 555

tod winter greens, to transplant, 139
the best, 85

Saxifraga diversifolia, 335
Fortvnei, 445
granulata, 151
oppoeitifolia, 504
purpuraacens, 410
sarmentosa. 444
Saxifrage, Fortune's, 445
the pyramidal, 238
Wandering Jew. 4 44
Scabious, dwarf, 216, 490
Scale and bug, destroying, 395
Pear tree, 449

Scarborough Lily, seed of, 573
Scarlet Runners, preserving, 328
Schizanthus pinnatus, 352
Scilla, Lilium, and Narcissus, 600, 629
sibirica, 564
Sell las, 10W, 482

Sally JsUinds, Dracccrui grove in, 385
Scirpua, 374
Scones, Scotch, 255
Scotch Greys, 384
Scrapers, garden, 508
Scraps, savoury, mould of, ICO
Screen, plant* for, 477
Seakale, 25, 548
and Asparagus beds, 532
forcing, 49, 518

paraffin casks for covering, 589
root cuttings of, r. seeds, 513
Seakale bed, making a, 25
Seaside, shrubs for, 314
Season, fruits of the, 535
Seaweed os manure, 606
as manure for Asparagus, 577
Sedges and Rushes, 374
Sedum carneum v&riegatum, 274
spectabile, 244
Seed beds, watering, 53
Seedlings, a cheap and effective method
of raising, 28
or seeds, 541
Seeds, 469
about, 477
and birds, 595
and grubs, 87
how to treat, 558
New Zealand, 436
or seedlings, 541
proper depth to cover, 478
saving, 478
•owing, 478, 630, 647
•owing dry, 595
sowing in drills, 50
Stlaginella gram l is, pan of, 155
Setiginellas, to propagate, 82
Sempervivum barbatuhnu, 239
Senccio abrotanifolius, 218
ftrtemisixfolius, 217
Japonicus, 17

pulcher, 442, 547, 595, 05S
qieeiosus, 362
Shading, 606
Shed, paint for, 542
Sheltering, 507

Shoot*, vnpnned, in flower, 413
Shortbread, 160
Scotch, 296

Shrub, a new ornamental, 379
for hedge, 474
hardy flowering, 935
Shrubs and trees, 317
and trees, planting, 2S9
annuals among, 75
henry-bearing, 500
climbing, 356
evergreen flowering, 554
flowering, notes on, 257
for forcing, 33, 414
for hedge, 332
for wall, 87

for window- boxes, 301
(food lawn, 268
hardy, 497

hardy, for forcing, 487
ornamental, propagation of, 605
propagating, 350
propagating, Stc., book on, 591
reside, 314
•oil for, 23
under trees, 36
Shrubberies, 484
Roses running wild in, 252
Sjsyrinchium grandiflorum, 207
pests, 653, 659
Slug* and bran, 226
Md lime, 10, 53
uui paraffin, 635
wd plants, 641
*od rock gardens, 641
w! snails, 268, 302, 314
etching, 159
keeping off, 220
**dlings eaten by, 160
Smilax tamnoides, 575
tamnoides, flowering spray of, 315
"moke, greenhouse, 016, 665
walls and slugs. 268, 302, 311
killing, 200 . 226
fUtytragon, dwarf, 170
Snowdrops, 566, 583 /' ">

•“iCroci^ m ed by

Snowdrops and Crocus, replanting, 273
forcing, 516
in Somersetshire, 373
Snowflake, the spring, 513
the summer, 79

Snowflake », group rf summer, 79
Snow' Glory, 116
Soil, 457

and locality, 255,[283
baking, 635
clayey, 635, 653
for perennials, 10, 21
for potting Ferns, 120
for Rhododendrons, 474
from pond, 654
grubs in new, 21
improving dry, 061
improving garden, 525
potting, 650
refuse, 334
ridging, 74

ridging ground in winter, 47
stones in, 444

Soils for Peaches and Nectarines, 121
for shrubs, 23
Solatium, 643

jasminoides from seed, 306
Solnnums, 316
berry-bearing, 365
not fruiting, 650
Solomon's Seal, 164
forced, 320

Soot and w orms in pots, 214
Sophora japonic* pendula, 257, 575
japonica pendula in summer, 257
japonica pendula in winter, 259
Soup, rabbit, 466
rice milk, 627

South coast, Fig trees on, 509
Sow ing Anemones, 3
Dahlias, 4
flower seeds, 110
Salvias from seed, 4
seed in drills, 50
vegetable seeds, 105
Sp&nnannin africana, 326
Sparrows, 87
and Peas, 10, 75
destroying, 659
Spartium junceum, 257
Spearwort, the great, 374
Speedwell, missing, 627, 652
Speedwells, New Zealand, 805
shrubby, 343
Spinach, *325

and its substitutes, 157, 200
perpetual, 328
substitute for, 182
summer, 183
Spiraea arisefolia, 6o4
japonica, 391
Red, 248

Red, after flowering, 222
sorbifolla, 258
Spirmas, 212, 580, 582
and Tritoma Uvaria, 410
herbaceous, 420
not flowering, 135
red, after flowering, 220
Sprats as manure, 677, 615
Spring Cabbages and winter Colewort,
220

flowering, Stocks for, 211
Spruce beer, 296
Scotch, 627
Squills, 108, 583
Standard, espalier into, 578
Staphylea colchica. 326
St. Bruno's Lily, the Great, 20S
Stophanotis, 56, 98
culture, 581

flnribunda, 29. 291, 381, 580
flowering in small pots, 29
Sternbergia lutea, 427
Sticklebacks, 390
hatching in aquarium, 396
St. John’s Wort for baskets, 262
Stock, vitality of, 544
Stocks, 454
and Wallflowers, 409
double and single, 98
ten-week, 031, 643
to sow, 107

Stone edgings, 479, 522
natural, 536

Stonccrop, variegated, 274
Stones in soil, 444
mulching with, 259

Stove and greenhouse management, 054

g as, 542

ouse, crickets in, 664
oil, for heating gieenhovsr,, 655
plants, 223
slow combustion, 653
tortoise, 464
Stoves, oil, 406, 526
oil-lamp, 542
Strawberry' beds, 240, 262
duration of, 233
old, 166

Strawberry, the, G59
Black Prince, 92
culture of, 81
forcing, 411
in the open air, 233
Strawberries. 237, 317. 825. 563
artificial setting and thinning, 412
autumn, 340
barren, 244, 202
best, 278
Continental, 588
culture of, in pots, 118
culture of, for market, 877
‘ ig leaves off, 340
among, 486
fg, 412

Strawberries for forcing, 196
for late fruiting, 412
gathering, 377
in frames, 27S
in pits and frames, 188
in pots, 500

in pots in open ground, 224
insects and diseases of, 234
insects and mildew on, 412
in town gardens, 370
late forced, 172
layering, 224
manuring, 377
new plantations of, 101
not colouring, 990
not fruiting, 262
packing, 412

planting, 234, 262, 377, 390
pot, 430

preparation of the soil for, 377
raising seedings of, 234
tan mulching for, 814
the best, 21, 290
top dressing for, 20
top-dressing and watering, 233
varieties of, 234, 278, 377
varieties of, for forcing, 412
wintering in pots, 430
worth growing, 73
Strawberry mats, 200
Strawberry plants, commencing to force,
412

fruitless, 224, 244
in pots, 577

keeping, a second year, 412
not blooming, 200, 224
obtaining, 233
selecting, 411
soil for and potting, 411
Strawberry plots, planting and clearing,
278

Strawberry runners, 244
removal of, 233
Strawberry tree, the, 433
Succulents in flower beds, 823
Suggestion, a, 640

Sulphate of ammonia for Chrysanthe¬
mums, 652
Sumach, 258
Summer, 425
flowers of, 230

Sunflower, proliferous bloom qf common
annual, 287
silvery leaved, 322
the great perennial, 245
Sunflowers, 44,304, 323, 335, 374
and Poppies, 405, 427
annual, 287
culture of, 21, 211
large, 362
sowing seeds of, 40
Run Rose, Roseinary-leaved, 164
Sun Roses, 217
Swarming—supering, 295
Sweet Bays, 350
Sweet Flag, 374
Sweet Peas, 409, 580
autumn-sown, 216
in a cut state, 565
in succession, 275
propagating, 220
sowing, 404

Sweet william, double crimson, 233
Sweet Williams, 240
and Wallflowers, 276
seedlings of, 685, 596, 614
transplanting, 629, 643
treatment of, 105)

Symphytum officinale variegatum, 245
Syrup, Clove, 466
Elderberry, 495

T

T ABLE decoration, 654

Taehbrook, old Apple tree at, 243
Tacsonia Van Volxeml, 635, 651
Tagelts , dwarf, 38
for bedding, 38
Tan as a mulching, 332
mulching for Strawberries, 314
Tar and clay paint, 395
for woodwork, 692, 065
Tea, Coltsfoot, for a cough, 123
Temperature and air giving, 567
Tennis lawn, 282
making, 293

Terrace wall, a garden, 569
Tetranychus Telarius, 86
Thalictrum, 425
Thistle, Cotton or Scotch, 483
Glol»e, 442
Thistles, 376
Thoms and Hollies, 445
Thom tree, transplanting a large, 258
Thrips, 214
on Cucumbers, 206
on Dahlias, &c., 359
on Fuchsias, 293, 316
TiartUa cordifolia, 27
Tiger Flower, the, 263
Tiger Lily, the, 280
Tiger Lilies in the wild garden, 651
Tigridia grand!flora, 203
grandiflora alba, 062
Tobacco, home-grown, 887
Tobacco plants in the garden, 322
Tomatoes, 105, 129, 153, 224,282,354, 424,
492

and Beans, 318
and w asps, 328
cuttings of, 359
dwarf,’ 29
early, 312

Tomatoes, fertilising, 252
growing, 431, 455, 589, 617, 647
growing, profitable, 394
in frames, 7
in pots. 492
in w indows, 86
new' and old, 340
summer treatment of, 205
unripe fruits of, 359
Tools, something about, 459
Torch Lilies, the, 302, 443
Tortoise, food for, 200
Tortoise stove, 464
Trailer, a graceful, 315
Transplanting, 478
evergreens, 0
trees and shrubs, 23
Trapa natans, 397
natans, fruit of, 397
Traveller’s Joy, 510
Tree Carnations, 458
Tree Fern , Banana, dc., 539
Tree Ferns, Australian, 473
Tree tor centre of bed, 634

the Traveller’s, of Madagascar , 639
Trees, a few* choice law n, 394
and shrubs, 317
and shrubs, flowering. 80
and shrubs, planting, 239
and shrubs, transplanting. 23
Apples on ornamental, 100
berry-bearing, 500
canker in fruit, 77
cats injuring, 40, 61
for avenue, 306
for law ns, 194
fruit, for ornament, 48
for shading, 195
heading down old, 77
Ivy under, 350

large, simple method of transplanting,
534

manure water for, 539
planting, 401

plants under, 27, 44, 441, 464
protectors for fruit, 141
root-pruning and root lifting, 77
shrubs under, 86
staking young, 6
tapering, avenue of, 625
tapering, avenues of, 624
treatment of Orange, 69, 93
Tree Ivy, the, 329
Trellis work, the, 895
annual creepers for, 654
plants for, 293
Trenching, 376
and manuring, 446
Tritelcias, 79

Tritoma Uvaria and Spirwas, 410
Uvaria from seed, 349
Tritomas, 322, 363, 443, 471
Tritonia aurea, 822, 685
Trollius, 425
Tropteolum, 569
azureum, 210, 246
blue-flowered, 210
Cooperi, 440
Jarratti, 610
Lobbiamim, 531
polyphyllum, 425, 531
speciosum, 240, 531
tuberosum, 160, 411, 441, 472
Tropseolums, 305, 355, 388
climbing , 584
climbing and dwarf, 107
winter-flowering, 261
Trumpet Lily, 443
Tuberose, African, 498
Tuberoses, 365. 428, 498, 580, 662
culture of, 581, 627
growing African, 050
how to grow’, 58
not flowering, 638, 650
Tubers and bulbs, 426
bulbs, corms, 160
Tufty Hair Grass, 137
Tuition, result of Gardbnino, 323
Tulips, 317, 337, 482, 630
after blooming, 248, 265
and Hyacinths, 470
old-fashioned, 192
on Grass, 540
Turkeys, rearing, 618
rearing young, 665
Turnip fly, 173
Turnip, Golden Stone, 828
Turnips, 282, 825, 555
and Carrots, 604
to sow, 153
Turnip tops, 7
Tussilago Petasites, 374
sweet-scented, 440
Twin Flower, the, 299
Ty pha Inti folio, 374

U

TTRCEOLINA aurea, 679
u Urn flower, the, 579

V

V ALLOTA purpurea, 444, 572
Vallotas, 120
Vases for plants, 652
Vegetable, a little-known, 043
Nettles as a, 427
Vegetables, culture of, 10, 445

IRBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDEN 1jVG ILLUSTRATED

Vegetables, forcing, 606
for exhibition. 419
importation of, 419
market, 540

mulching advanced crops of, 166
(Kites on forcing, 518
►electing, 419
select winter, 555
some good, 492
sowing early, 57
soccecsionai cropping, 224
to sow, 25, 46, 97
transplanting. 220
varieties of, 517
winter treatment of. 402
norms in crops of, 574
worth growing, 51G
Vegetable gardens, formation of, 5:1
Vegetable quarters, double cropping of.

Vegetable refuse, 354
Vegetable Marrow?, 49, 71, 105, 117, 2>2,
366, 654
bitter, 431
eutting, 240

in light and heavy material, 328
small r. large, 268
turning yellow, 3S2
Vegetarianism, 451, 471
Vegetarian, some reasons for luing a, 36)
some reasons for not being a, 420
Vegetation in the .Scilly Isles, 3:5
Ventilation, greenhouse . 055
Verbena, the, and its culture, 209
sw eet-scented, 573, 5:1
Verbenas from seed, 565
raising, from seed, 115
Vermin, 505

Veronica Andersoni, 531
longiiolia var. subscasilis, 652
Traversi, 32S
Veronicas, 3*15, 324, 554
needling, 299
6hrubby, moving. 661
when to plant, 179

Victoria, Australia, Trc< Ferns in, 473
Vine border, making. i'S
wireworm in, 4^J, 493
Tine borders, :2
icharcoal in. 92
covering. 279
iwatering inside, 279
Vne, diseases of the, lol
for planting, 172
in pot, 244
insects of the, 171

in the open air, 161
not fruiting, 487

prolific outdoor, at Bockt-sar-Yon, 105
Vines, 36, 57 , 96. 153, 165, 223, 248, 266,
281, 289, 305, 317, 324, 338, 406, 415,
428, 447, 488, 520, 551, 5S6, 630
affected with bug, 395
air roots on, 189
and Roses for greenhouses, 572
applying gas tar to, 559
best kinds to plant, 259
bleeding, 106
culture of. 171
disbudding. 279
early. 80, 865, 156, 653
fruiting, management cf, 179

Vines, growing in pots, 468
in a greenhouse, 336, 559
in late houses. 25
in pots, 300, 302
late, 80, 104, 365, 457, 653
leaves falling off, 37
leaves of, turning pale, l, 2
mealy bug on, 301, 6i3, 654, 005
mid-season, 653
mildew on, 73

new rods on old <3 rape, 73, 92
not fruiting, 279
old c. young, 561
outdoor Grape, 105, 166, 536
planting, 7

planting, for fruiting, 524
propagation of. 161
pruning, 390, 448
raising, 259
raising, from eyes. 561
renovating old, 101, 290
ripening the wood of, 390
spur r. rod-pruning, 290
stems of, near hot-water pipes, 635
stopping and training, 171
stopping and tying, 279
summer management of, 290
thinning the fruit of, 171
to manure. 174
training and pruning, 259
treatment of houses, 185
varieties of, 162
watering, 171
w inter pruning, 161
Vinegar, Black Currant, 296
Vinery, blind for, 31
Cinerarias in, 343
early routine work in, 259
flies in, 160
flowers near, 5S5, 596
plants for back wall of, 614
red spider in, 290, 318
stove plants in. 19
system, the one, 5:7
the amateur’s, 300
the early, 258
the ground, 300
the late, 289
treatment of, 196
unheated, 300
Vineries, early, 428
late, 520

what to grow on back walls of, 577, 661
Viola, propagation of, 229
Violas, 206, 583
and Pansies, 212, 248
bedding, 94, 232
Vi<<'(t, Comte Bra-:i\< ichiU, 439
Marie Louise, 374, 454
the New Holland, 409
Violets, 170, 223, 482, 502, 514, 526, 539,
579

after blooming, 55
Dog’s-tooth, 27, 456
in autumn, 361
in autumn and w inter, 596
in greenhouse, 41
Neapolitan, 44

Neapolitan, for winter blooming, 19
not blooming, 18
propagating, 239
w inter-flow criug, 326

Virginian Creeper, colouring of, 427
in church decorations, 336
propagating, 359
Veitch’s, 252, 4*4
Virginian Lvngurort, 115

W

W ALES. Camellias outdoor* in, 60S
Walks, 25, 354
and edgings, 446
and law ns, 281
best edgings for garden, 35
draining, 577
edgings for garden, 133
garden, 240, .‘196
grubs in garden, 109
weeds on, 387
Wallflower, alpine, 595
double dwarf, 44
Harbinger, 565
sowing double, 635
Wallflowers. 131, 138, 227, 583
all the year round, 164
and other hardy plants in pots, 220
and Stocks, 409
and Sweet Williams, 276
double crimson and yellow, 643
in pots, 69, 233
Wall fruit trees, 105
Wall gardening, lessons in, 115
Wall, greenhouse, 566

naked, how to cover quickly, 3trt>
Rose for, 345
Walls, Cherries on, 158
climbers for sunless, 44, 56

G ardening on, 114
cars on, 89

Roses and Camellias on buck, 30
shrubs to cover, :7
Wall-tree cover, improved. 294
Walnuts, cultivation of. 175
gathering and preserving, 332
gathering the nuts. 175
propagation of. 175
Walnut trees, 659
training and priming, 175
Washington in ril\J'f>a, 515
Washleather, cleaning, 119
Wasps, 50, 110, 305
and Tomatoes, 328
in bee hives, 294
Wasps’ nests, 395
nests, extinguisher for. 40
Water < leaner, a penn y, 422
Watering, 506
in open ground, 227

¥ lants. 91, 200
ire Ferns, 59
seed beds, 53
r. mulching, 232, 290
Water Lily, 566
velloic, 311

Water Melons, group of, 119
in pit, 606

Water pipes, varnish on hoi, 160
Wax. 511
Weather, the, 616
Weeds and grubs, 375
and weeding, 507

Weeds, lawn, 28. 586
on lawns, 57, 170, 375, 503, 639
on lawns, destroying, 565
on walks, 387

Weevils and caterpillars, 377
Westmoreland, ries* 0 /garden in, 459
Wheat, Uighted blade of, 477
White Lily 0 /the Incas, 191
Whitlavia grandiflora. 43
14 i/d garden. Tiger Lilies in, 651
Willow herbs, 373
Willows, eutting, 436
Windflower, the scarlet, 264
Windflowers, 521
Window-box, 663
Window-boxes, shrubs for, 301
Window gardening, outside case* for, 127
Window gardens, 139
Window plants, notes on, 238
treatment of. 113
Windows, Lily culture in, 14
plants suitable for, 113
Tomatoes In, 86
Wine, Coltsfoot, 63
Coltsfoot, to make, 123
Elderberry, 437
Lemon, 63
Parsnip, 63

Rasin, 137, 424, 495, 527
Winter Cherry, 18
Wireworm, 436
in vine border, 4:0, 493
Wistaria freely trainee!. 213
Woodlice. destroying. 370, 382
eating Foxgloves, 359
in frames, 61, 75
in greenhouse, 50
in Mushroom houses, 34
plague of. 664
to destroy, 119
Wood stumps, removing. 37S
Woodwork, tar for. 592, 655
Worms in lawns, 10, 40, 382
in manure. 21
in vegetable crops, 574
Wort (Dutch), 494

Y

Y EA8T for home-made bread, 296
Yews, Irish, cutting down, 510
moving large. 474
ungainly, 631, 645
Young Potatoes for Christmas, 220
Yucca fllamentosa, 628
flaccid*, 245
gloriosa, 503

gloriosa not blooming, 514
Yuccas, 628

Z

Z EN0B1A poh-endentit, 235,57
Zenobia 8peeiosa, 212
Zenobias, the, 235
ZephyratUhes Atanuuco, 249
Zinc pans for hanging baskets, 59
Zinnias, double, 223

raising, for borders, 631, 633
to raise, 106

Digitized by Gougle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Digitized by Google

Original from

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Digitized by Gougle

Original from

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

Vol. Vf. MARCH 8, 1884. No. 261.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 596).

Winter Flowers.

Many stove plants flower naturally in winter;
others can, by a little management, be made to
dower at that season. Of late years, the
Amaryllis has undergone great improvement at
the hands of the hybridist; the few[species grown
thirty years ago have branched out in all direc¬
tions—breadth being added to the petals, and
colours which were then unknown have been
evolved by intercrossing and raising seedlings.
Bat working up stock being rather a slow pro¬
cess, the prices will, in comparison with ordinary
soft-wooded plants, for some time rule high.
Still, all who can afford it should go in for the
Amaryllis family, as they are such grand things
in winter. After the growth is completed and
the foliage begins to change colour, water should
be gradually withheld till the leaves fall away,
then they may remain comparatively dry till the
new growth breaks up again. During the rest¬
ing period the bulbs may all be grouped together
in a dark corner, but not out of sight, nor yet
be forgotten or neglected. But as soon as a
movement is observed they must be repotted, if
needful, and be placed in a light position near
the glass. Turfy loam, enriched with old
manure and made fairly porous with sand, will
suit them. Another bulbous plant that is now
much cultivated is the Eucharis amazonica,
bat this being an evergreen, the drying pro¬
cess must not be carried too far, as the foliage
must not be allowed to suffer. Of course, any¬
one can flower this plant now by a system of
judicious checks, such as partial dryness, or
by moving to a lower temperature for a few
weeks. When it was first introduced, however,
there was some difficulty in getting it to flower,
and I remember I induced the first lot of full
grown bulbs to flower by shaking them out and
repotting, but the resting plan is the better one.
Two or three crops of flowers may be had in a
season by this means from the same bulbs,
when they are full grown in size. They also
mcceed well planted out in a narrow shallow
x>rder anywhere in the stove or a warm house.
1 have seen them succeed well on a narrow bed
nade up with boards near the hot water pipes,
h fact they will do very well wherever the
varmth and moisture are well under control. The
Inantophyllums are showy and valuable plants
that will succeed well under a system of
forcing and resting, but, being evergreen, the
ret will include only partial dryness, accom¬
panied by cool treatment. Begonias are useful
winter bloomers for a cool stove, and when in flower
mry be moved to the conservatory. Plumbago
r&ea, a dwarf species easily propagated from
ci tings in spring, is valuable from its distinct
iide of colour. Thyrsacantbus rutilans, Cen-
tnpogon Lucyanum, Conoclinium ianthimum,
Peatas carnea, E ran the mum pulchellum, Fran-
cifcea calycina major, and others, are very
!b«wy, and when the wood of the latter is well
npmed they flower freely. They should be moved
into a greenhonse near the glass to ripen the
»o>d in summer, and in warm seasons I have
turned them out with the greenhonse plants in
tk open air, and plants so treated never failed
a be covered with blossoms within a short time
tfer being placed in heat again.

Spiphyllums in various colours grafted on
tig Pereskia stock, standard high, are very effec-
ti*e in winter. After the growth is completed
ir spring, let them pass the summer in the green-
base, then a short time before flowers are
winted move a few at a time into the stove,
fbndeletia speciosa is an excellent stove shrub,
tarly always in flower. It has maintained its
bid upon cultivators all through the rage for
fdiage which set in twenty years ago. This
1st might be indefinitely prolonged did space
psrmit, bat I will only further notice the Taber-
turnon tana coronaria fl.-pl., and the Gardenias,
vuch are so sweet and fragrant in winter and
wly Rpring. The former is valuable for cutting,
ud deserves more attention than it receives,
fie Gardenia everybody knows by sight, at any
ae, it being one of the most popular market

Digitized by t_sOO£jlC

flowers. Some growers make a speciality of it,
building houses for it, where it can be planted
out in beds of rough peat. Under this treatment
it attains its most luxuriant development. The
Gardenia may also be successfully grown in pots.
Fibry peat, and plenty of sand to keep it open,
are its chief necessities, with plenty of warmth
and moisture during its growing and blossoming
periods, with a thin shade to soften the rays of
the sun in the middle of the day. After the
growth is made, the temperature should be
lowered to ripen the wood. If the plants are
in pots, they can be moved to a cooler house, and
in the hot summer weather they will take no
harm if placed in the open air for two or three
weeks during the brightest season. Gloxinias
can easily be had in flower in winter, or at any
other time, by inducing early rest, and Gloxinias
in this respect are very manageable. They seem
to fall naturally into any desired arrangement
without loss of vigour. Achimenes may, by a
system of starting in batches, be made to
reach up to Christmas. These are very useful,
and more ought to be done with them,
they are so well adapted to the small stove or con¬
servatory. They must have heat to start them (a
Cucumber frame or an ordinary hotbed will do),
but when they have reached the blooming stage
they will do very well in the conservatory. They
may either be shaken out at starting, or be started
in the pots of the previous year, and potted off
when an inch or two high ; half a dozen plants in a
6-inch pot will make a nice little specimen, but a
dozen in a 10-inch pan will make a grand one. The
tops strike freely as cuttings, and dwarf minia¬
ture plants may be had in this way without
much trouble. They also make excellent basket
plants for either stove or conservatory. When
the flowering ceases and the foliage becomes
shabby, they may be dried off, and stored away
anywhere till the season comes round to start
them again. Bough peat and leaf-mould, with
plenty of sand, will grow them well. But for
the amateur’s stove in winter there is no class of
flowers more useful than the Gesnerias, of which
zebrina splendens may be taken as the type.
They succeed well in shallow pans, planted in
rough peat, with a little leaf-mould and plenty
of sand. A single tuber in a 4^-inch pot, well
grown, will make a nice little “table plant, but
they are very effective in large pans, 8 or 10
tubers in each. They should be rested when
the growth ripens, in the same way as the
Achimenes, to which family the Gesneria is nearly
allied.

Insects.

In the stove, if neglect creeps in, insects in¬
crease at an alarming rate; thrips, greenfly,
scale, and, above all, mealy bug revel in its
warmth, and suck the life blood out of the plants,
unless a war of extermination is waged. The
mealy bag is the most difficult to deal with, and
it has a greater liking for some plants than others.
The Stephanotis and Gardenias, for instance, are
special favourites, and if the former of these is
encouraged to spread over the roof, and the bug
gainB admission to the house, a very determined
effort must be made to destroy it before it be¬
comes numerous. The only real remedy is to
persevere with the sponge and soft soap in
winter, when they do not increase so fast.
Various things have been recommended for
syringing plants infested with bags. Among
other remedies paraffin oil has some value, but
the difficulty with all things applied in this way
is, enough insects will be left to rapidly fill up
the ranks again. To get rid of them altogether
they must be followed up into their secret
haunts where the water from the syringe cannot
penetrate; and, when once the enemy has been
banished, great care should be exercised, when
bringing in new plants, to see that they are ob¬
tained from a clean source—if it be possible.
The greenfly and thrips can easily be destroyed
by fumigation of Tobacoo on several successive
evenings during a damp time. The brown scale
must be attacked in the same way as the bug,
by washing with insecticides. A strong solu¬
tion of soft soap, applied warm, will be as effec¬
tive as most things. The scales cling close, and
many require touching rather firmly with the

sponge, or occasionally with a sharp-pointed
stick, to dislodge them.

Fine-leaved or Tropical Plants.

It is, of course, impossible to do more within
the limits I have laid down for myself than
just briefly glance at the many numerous
families which are grouped under the above
heading in plant catalogues. During the last
fifteen or twenty years, the chief groups, such
as the Crotons, Dracaenas, Caladiums, Marantas,
&c., have grown into large dimensions from the
many introductions from abroad, as well as
hybrids raised at home. Whenever a demand
arises for anything, busy minds and hands are
soon at work to supply it, hence the growth in
numbers of this class of plants, many of which
are exceedingly beautiful. Their chief require¬
ments are heat and moisture. Many of the most
beautiful species are natives of the hot swamps
of the Polynesian Islands, and the nearer the
imitation to such conditions in our hothouses,
the better the results. All through the growing
season a night temperature of 70° will be neces¬
sary, and in order to colour them effectively the
plants must be grown near the glass, as they
will not put on the colour properly in the shade,
nor yet if far from the glass. Crotons and
Dracaenas especially must have all the light
possible to colour them well. Young plants
may be grown best in peat and sand, but as they
get larger and older, a few rough nodules of
loam may be added, and I have seen them well
grown in pure loam where the loam has been of
very superior quality. Caladiums are com¬
monly grown in peat, but the best collec¬
tion of these I have ever seen were grown in
loam, with a liberal allowance of old manure.
When grown in light soil, the leaves lack the
strength and substance which a more substantial
diet never fails to give. Caladiums are often in¬
jured by drying too much in winter. Unless the
plants have been exceptionally well grown, if
allowed to get too dry, they decay instead of
grow when placed in heat again, and thus
perish. A well-grown crown has more vitality
in it than a badly-fed specimen, and conse¬
quently it will endure treatment that would kill
a plant whose growth had been less firmly built
up. But under any circumstances Caladiums
should never be allowed to get thoroughly dust
dry. As the leaves turn colour, water should be
given less frequently to aid the ripening pro¬
cess, and as they sink to rest they may be
placed under the stage to be looked at occa¬
sionally and enough water given to keep them
plump and fresh. Three or four times through
the winter will probably suffice for this. As soon
as growth begins in spring, they must be shook
out and repotted in clean pots and fresh compost,
and from this time forward should occupy a
light position, with only a very thin shade in
bright weather in summer. If the plants are
syringed, very great care should be exercised in
using nothing but the purest rain water; their
large, brilliant, glossy leaves are very suscep¬
tible, the least impurity spoiling their effective-
ness, and plants that are much sponged never
carry the highest finish. This remark applies
more especially to Caladiums and Alocasias,
though with all foliage plants the cleaner the
conditioAunder which they are grown the better,
if they are to arrive at the very pitch of perfec¬
tion of leafage.

Propagation op Stove Plants.

The tuberous and bulbous-rooted plants in¬
crease themselves by offsets, which can be
taken off when the repotting is done —
preferably in spring. A few genera, such as
Gloxinias and Begonias, in the case of scarce
kinds, may be increased by cuttings of leaves.
Some, such as the Bouvardias, strike freely from
root cuttings, that is, by taking off pieces of the
thick fleshy roots a couple of inches long, and
inserting them in pots of light sandy soU, then
plunging in bottom heat. All the free-growing
speciesmay be readily and rapidly increased from
cuttings of the branches, either of the young tips
of the shoots, or, in the case of Dracaenas, cut¬
ting the old stems into single eyes or buds, and
plunging in a brisk bottom heat to force dormant
buds to start. Some are easily increased by

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
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C)

GARDENING ILL VSTRATED

rlivi ling the root stojk into as many pieced as
there are crowns. Of these the Anthuriums,
Alocasias, and Caladiums furnish familiar ex¬
amples. But with beat and moisture the propa¬
gation of stove plants offers no more difficulty
than is met with in working up a stock of bed¬
ding plants. There are a few subjects difficult
to deal with. Ipomtea Horsfalliic and Combretum
purpureum are exceedingly difficult to strike
from cuttings, but the former may easily be
grafted on roots of a commoner species, and
the latter can be layered.

Varieties.

The lists of stove plants which I give below
have been purposely made short and select,
suitable for a girden with only moderate stove
accommodation.

Flowering Plants .—Allamanda Hendersoni,
A. grand ill ora, JKchmea fulgens, Anthurium
Schertzerianum, A. S. album, Aphelandra
crUtita, A. Roezli, Billbergia splendida, Centro-
progon Lucyanus, Clerodendron fallax, C. Bal-
fourianum, Combretum purpureum, Conoclinium
ianthimum, Dipladenia Brearleyana, D. boli-
viensis, Eranthemum pulchellum, Eucharis
amazonica, Euphorbia jacquiniflora, Franciscea
calycina major, F. Hopeana, Gardenia florida
intermedia, G. radicans major, Hexacentris
Mysorensis (handsome climber), Hibiscus bril-
liantissimus, and others, Roya bella, H. carnosa
(useful climber"), Imintophyllum aurantiacum
and others, Impatiens Jerdoniui, t. Sultani, Ixora
coocinea superba, I. Colei, I. Princeof Orange, I.
alba, I. crocata rutilans, Jasminum gracillimum,
excellent for cutting, planted in a bed of
peat and loam, and trained near the glass ;
Justicia speciosa, J. carnea. Libonia tloribunda,
Medinilla magnifica, Mussicnda frondosa.
Pancratium fragrans, Pentas carnea, Plumbago
rosea, Poinsettia pulcherrimi, P. p. alba, ltivina
humilis, Rmdeletia speciosa major, Stephinotis
floribunda—a well-known fragrant white flowered
climber, Taberntemontana coronaria flore-pleno,
Thunbergia Harrisi (handsomeclimber), Thrysa-
canthus rutilans, Torenia asiatica, T. Fournieri,
Vinca alba oculata, V. rosea.

Fine foliaged plant *.—Alocasia Jenningai, A.
motallica, A. Veitchi, A. macrorhiza variegata,
Ananassa sativa variegata, Anthurium tnagnifi-
cum, Aralia Veitchi gracillima, A elegantissima,
Bertolonia margaritacea, Caladiums in variety,
Cissus discolor, C. porphyrophylla, Croton
angustifolius, C. Earl of Derby, C. interrupts,
C. latifolius maculatus, C. Prince of Wales, C.
.lohannis and many others, Cyanophyllum
magnificum, Cycas revoluta, Cyperus alterni-
folius variegates, Draciena terminalis, D. t.
alba, D. stricta, D. alba-marginata, Ac.

E. Hobday.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

HARDY CYCLAMENS.

In proportion to the increasing popularity of the
tender Persian Cyclamen, that of the hardier
species has declined, for where are the modern

Ivy leaved Cyclamen (C. hederafulium).

gardens, large or small, in which hardy Cycla¬
mens are to be found, or if found, where they
can be considered as naturalized ? Here and
there we may find a few plants dotted about on
a rockery, or, it may be, put away in a cold
frame —a remembrance probably of European
wanderings—but there are many persons to be
met with who, though well acquainted with the
Persian Cyclamen, are not even aware of the ex¬
istence of any hardy sorts. These possess, not¬
withstanding, such a distinct character of their
own, that the best use to be made of them in our
gardens and elsewhere is a question of consider¬
able interest. Nothing in the garden in winter

Digitized by Google

(March 8, 1884

can be more charming than a group of healthy
spreading tufts of Ivy-leaved Cyclamens, with
their dark green polished leaves, whose grey
marble bands of variegation more than atone
for the (lowers that are pa^t and gone. Still
more precious, perhaps, are the winter blooming
species, which, to their deep crimson dowers, add
the grace of dark green leafage, from out of
which they look when flowers are few and far
between, as if half-expectant of cruel frost to
drive them back again to hide under its kindly
shelter. For in mo>t of the hardy species the
flowers are not thrown up well above the foliage,
but crouch towards the earth with the air of
modest crimson violets, to which in general ap¬
pearance they may be said to bear some sort of
resemblance. It is better to keep this lowly
character well in mind, for with our modern ex¬
perience of gigantic blooms of the Persian
Cyclamen, proudly rearing their handsome head-
on long stems, disappointment would inevitabl}
follow if the expectations of tho*e unacquainted
with tho hardy species were cast in a similar
mould.

European Cyclamens
are always reckoned amongst our hardy peren¬
nials, but all who cultivate them agree that two
things are essential to their well being—shelter
from cutting winds, and, when once planted,
to be left alone. To these must be added
another essential, if we take a gardener's rather
than a botanist's view, and grow plants for their
general effect rather than for the interest which
individually belongs to them. They must bt
planted, not singly or even in twos and threes,
but in considerable masses or colonies. With
regard both to the harmful effects of want of
shelter and impatience of removal, 1 can speak
from melancholy experience, for during the
keen easterly winds of last March, which many
people have reason to remember, the greater
part of my Cyclamens, which had hitherto been
reckoned amongst the hardiest plants to be
grown in our changeable climate, had every leaf
scorched and withered, as though by a hot bias!
from a furnace. This was all the more vexatious
because in making alterations in the garden a
few years before, there had been occasion to
remove a number of the plants to temporary
quarters, a disturbance which they so greatly-
resented, that when the frost came it found
them unprepared, and many of the tubers, stout
as they seemed, proved in the spring to have
been reduced to pulp. Experiences such as
these, however, teach as no theoretical learning
can, and help us to do better next time. It is
not absolutely impossible to move Cyclamens,
however, if necessary, but it would seem that
there is less risk incurred when this is done in
the spring, at the time when the plants are
going to rest, though removal should be avoided
as much as possible. It is considered better in
the nurseries, on this account, to send them out
in pots rather than to lift them from the open
ground.

There are sheltered nooks to be found in many
a garden where hardy Cyclamens, if permanently
planted, would be just in the right place. For ex¬
ample, I know of a famous bank of them growing
in a garden within the precincts of an ancient
country town, which has remained unmolested for
years past, and is a source—and justly so—of
pride and pleasure to its owners. Then again, no
p ants succeed better under the partial shade
of trees, like their first cousins, the E’rimroses,
than these hardy species of Cyclamen—a quality
so valuable that it should be made much of. In
Mr. Barr’s experimental nursery grounds, clumps
of the various specie* have been established for
a length of time under some tine old Elm trees,
as recently noticed in the gardening journals,
and suggest by their happy appearance the best
situation which can be devoted to them. Sinai
lar plantings of the Ivy-leaved Cyclamen have
lately been made under the trees at Kew,which,
when thoroughly established, promise to be
most attractive. And there is many a private
garden, where a tree—or it may be a group of
trees—is so placed as to crown a sloping Grassy
knoll, where the mowing machine has little
work to do, except perhaps in the height of sum¬
mer, and where the verdure of Cyclamen leaves
intermingled with their rosy flowers springing
from the Grass, would form a perfect picture in
the early spring. In such a position they would
get protection from scorching summer heat, and
be screened as well from the winter’s storms.

There is another purpose for which some species
of hardy Cyclamens—notably the pink and
white varieties of C. hedenefolium—might be
very appropriately used, viz., for planting in
sheltered spots and about the graves in a church¬
yard. Enquiries are frequently made as to suit¬
able plants for this purpose, and now, when our
country churchyards are happily so often well
cared for, there would be little difficulty, where
his is the case,in permanently establishing these
beautiful low-growing plants, and associating
them with Snowdrops and bright spring flowers

|

Cyclamen nespolil

which cannot fail to awaken cheering thoughts
in the minds of those who have laid their dead
to sleep in their quiet resting places in God's
Aero.

In Unheatkd Greenhouse*.

From another point of view hardy
may be used with the best effect for
the borders of an unheated greenht
not myself consider them so well adapted
cultivating in pots, though the smaller
such as C. Coum, C. Atkinsi, and C. repauuuu
are frequently so grown ; but where any kind d
stone work or rockery is arranged, as may beae<s
in many greenhouses, no plants can be fouid
which will tit better into angles and nook,
and which look equally well whether in
or out of flower. C. afric&num, an Algeria

The Persian Cyclamen (C. perelcum).

species, which is considered by Sir J. D. Hoofer
to be merely a form of one of the Europe
kinds, but which, if so, is a very distinct ad
fine form, is rather too tender for growing ot*
of doors without protection in onr English
dens, but would, probably, thrive well with jd
so much shelter as may be afforded by glj
alone. Whenever and wherever it may be i
sirable, however, to establish groups of had;
Cyclamens, it will be necessary to prepare a 1
for them by. digging nut.the earth and laydl
the foundatrott^oJ a Thoroughly good drainf

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
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8 , 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

before the soil is filled in, stagnant moisture I them. This species comes from the regions of

being exceedingly hurtfnl to them, A light,
rich compost of equal parts of leaf-mould,

the Caucasus, and differs from the Hound-leaved
Cyclamen in its larger tuber—in the shape of

sandy peat, and well decayed farmyard manure its leaves, which approach more nearly to those
suits most of the species well; but in the case of the Ivy-leaved species and are usually (but
of the Ivy-leaved Cyclamen a stiffer soil answers not always) variegated, and in its finer flowers,
equally well, if not better, for I have seen it which are raised on longer foot-stalks. These,
flourish in a garden where the staple of the soil which appear with the leaves, vary from pure
is a strong clay, and it does not refuse to thrive white with a purple mouth (as in C. Atkinsi) to
in any good garden loam. There is only one deep rose, and, like those of C. Coum, open in
way of propagating Cyclamens, and that is by February and March. The different varieties of

seed, which all the species seem to produce the winter-flowering Cyclamens have been
abundantly. After flowering, the stem has a blooming to great perfection in many gardens for
way of curling itself round till it reaches the the last few weeks owing to the exceptional
«arth, where it may be found twisted into a mildness of the season.

The European Cyclamen (C. europicuni) in grass under trees.

mini form with its pod of ripened seed in the m „

centre during the following summer, for it takes ^ HE ® PBINa Flowering Species

everal months to mature. The best way of are included under the nearly synonymous
beping up a stock is to sow the seed as soon as names of C. vernum and C. repandum, which
itis ripe every year, or, if more convenient, it are almost if not quite identical, but all the
an be easily bought. It should be sown in species dovetail, so to speak, so closely
sLallow seed pans and gently pressed into the into each other, that great difficulty has been
aril, which should never be allowed to become experienced in deciding upon a distinct nomen-
ray dry. The seed, if sown at once, soon begins clature. Like the varieties of C. Coum and C.
ic show signs of germination, and does not need ibericum, the spring flowering species have
tie assistance of artificial heat, though the shel- small round tubers, with a bunch of fibrous
ter of glass is of benefit. I cover the seed very roots from the base. The leaves, which are
slightly, for it is exceedingly interesting to watch variegated, accompany the flowers, which appear
the devclopmentof the tiny tuber which is formed in April and May, and are deep rosy red, with a
by a gradual thickening at the point, commonly purple stain at the mouth of each petal. This
called the collar, of a germinating plant, in species is native to the south of France and
»ther words, the point which is exactly inter- Italy, and is said by Mr. Baker, in his valuable
lediate between the stem and the root. The synopsis of the genus, to be the only spring
«edling is worthy of notice besides, because it flowering species of the western half of Europe,
imishes an example of an
ecepfcion to a general rule,
fr it ought, according to
i‘ place in one of the two
gat divisions of plants, to
cce up with two seed
leves, whereas, it is so hard
iVork developing its tuber,
tit it has only time to send
upne, but that is a good
st*t one, which grows on
ant becomes persistent, so
thait may do duty as a
forige leaf instead o f wi the r-
ing way as a properly be-
hxvd seed leaf should do.
ki matter of precaution,
the Tung tubers should be
keptfor the first year, or The European Cyclamen (CL europrcum) in grass under trees,

ever’onger, in boxes, in
whi<i*iey should be pricked

out tewing plenty of room between each, as The shape of the tuber in Cyclamens forms a

soon tihey are large enough to handle. Itis distinctive feature of the various species, which
bettertLl, when convenient, to plant out the should be noted, and care should be taken to
youupubere in a seed bed, in rich light soil, plant all of them an inch or two below the
wheniey can receive the shelter of a light in surface of the soil, as this is a great protection.

grown TZ Autumn Flow™

open gnnd with the protection of a few light Cyclamens are more generally familiar than the
Larch lurhs over them during hard frosts, if preceding species, and the two principal repre-
dueca* be taken not to disturb them when at sentatives of the class, though really distinct,
rest, le nising of seedlings must necessarily are very often confused with each other. These
be sonvhata tedious process, but it is interest- are the European and the Ivy-leaved Cyclamens
ing,a» when numbers are in question, it is the (C. hederaefolium). There are other autumn
least ctly method of obtaining what we want, flowering species, but since they are not so
1 There enot many species of hardy Cyclamens, easily to be met with they are better omitted,
and tie may be referred, from a gardener’s These two species, though very similar, may be
point view, to the three following divisons:— readily distinguished by the following points of
~ 0 difference. The root-stock of the European

is Winter Flowering Section Cyclamen is very irregular in form, and the
inch£ those which bloom in the earliest leaves and flowers proceed from knobby points
monOA the year, and are represen ted by (1) the or stems which grow out from any part of the
roand^ed Cyclamen (C. Coum), so named large tuber, which is often much elongated. In
from B 'stinctly round-shaped leaves, which the Ivy-leaved section the tuber is roundish,
areytiri uk green (seldom variegated), and flattened at the top, and is sometimes as large
ate no ^ 0 ^ edge, but, as in most of as a good sized soup-plate. In both species the

the ipies,>j e y are purple on the under side, root fibres grow out on all sides of the tuber,
This the uiallest of all its kind, and is a and not only from below, as in the smaller
nativef Eaa ra Europe and also of Syria and sorts. The] flowers of C. europaeum appear in

the aftcent entries. The flowers appear in late summer before those of the sister species,

?ebr*ry and i* rc h at the same time with the and are accompanied by leaves; whereas, in
leav« which ia^ advantage, but both leaves C. hederaefolium the flowers appear before the
aod»wers scarvjy rise more than an inch or leaves, and do not open much before October;
tvoKwe the suiace of the ground. There is but in my experience the climate has a con-

<? a *te and a roa-coloured variety, but in the siderable effect in forwarding or retarding the

* ttpbe flowers ar%c r imson. C. Coum is a very time of bloom.

ddhabitant of ott gardens. (2.) The Cauca- The flowers of C. europmum last longer in suc-
cuyclamen (C. ibricum) is altogether a finer cession than those of C. hederaefolium and are
ipe« than the last, and is of more recent in- generally rose-coloured. In the latter, the
tzo&on. It is the (rigin of the fine varieties flowers are white quite as often as pink, and
niffrom seed by the^areful selection of Mr. the seedlings generally come true to colour.
Attr of Fainswick, U whose [patience and The flowers of both species are often (but not
iki&rdeners are much indebted, and whose invariably) sweet scented; and their beautiful
aajias been given to icveral of the best of waxy marbled foliage, which is so great an

Digitized fr,

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ornament during the winter months, make both
kinds most desirable plants for all gardens
large and small. Both are natives of central
and southern Europe. The Ivy-leaved Cyclamen
is sometimes called the Neapolitan Cyclamen,
and the fine Algerian species before mentioned
(C. africanum) is probably merely a variety of
the same. Both species are quite hardy and
succeed everywhere if a little attention is given
to their special requirements. C. hedermfolium
is, in fact, named in every list of British wild
plants as a denizen, but it is scarcely naturalized
so much with us as to merit its Sicilian title of
“ Sow-bread,” but Cyclamen (referring possibly
to the spiral coils of the seed stalk) i9 one of
those latin names which have taken root in
English soil and will never probably be supei-
seded.—K. L. D.

Blue flowered plants.— Ageratum Im¬
perial Dwarf is one of the best of blue flowered
plants for the summer decoration of the flower
garden, being of very dwarf habit of growth,
and very floriferous. Sow at once in gentle
heat, and pot off as soon as the plants are large
enough. Harden off gradually, and plant out
in May. Salvia patens may be also raised from
seeds, but as it forms tuberous roots they may
be kept for many years by lifting at the
approach of winter, and storing them out of the
reach of frost. At this time of year, place
the roots in gentle heat, and the young shoots
that spring from the crown make capital cut¬
tings when about 3 inches long. This is a
beautiful flower deserving of good cultivation.
Lobelias of several varieties are exceedingly
well adapted for edgings. A good selection of
Lobelia speciosa is as good, but the very dwaif
kind called Lobelia pumila is the best for small
l>eds and edgings. Sow at once if cuttings aie
not available; but 1 prefer cuttings. They
make the most uniform lines, every plant being
alike. Keep the flower heads clipped off, so as
to get tufty little clumps by bedding out time.
Browallia elata is a beautiful annual plant
usually grown for greenhouse decoration, but it
does well out of doors in summer. Sow in
gentle heat, and prick off the plants into pans
and boxes, pinching out the points to induce a
bushy habit of growth. They flower most pro¬
fusely. Violas, such as Blue Bell, Blue King,
&c., are the best of dwarf flowers, especially for
mixed beds, flowering continuously the whole
season. Any old plants should now be pulled
in pieces, and planted in good rich soil, pricking
off the flowers until they are planted in their
summer quarters.—J. G., Hants.

Ohlonodoxa Luciliae. —A bed of this
charming winter blooming alpine bulb, which
was opening its bright blue and white flowers in
the sunshine of an early spring day (February
23rd) in the Old Nurseries, Cheshunt (Paul and
Son), cannot fail to attract the attention of all
who see it. It is to be hoped that it will be
allowed to establish itself where it is now
planted, so that each year it may increase in
strength and beauty. Only in this way can wc
hope to become acquainted with the real
character of such modest bulbs as these. Those
who have tried to grow the “Glory of the
Snow” in pots, and, disappointed with the
results, have pronounced it worthless, would do
well to give it a fair trial planted in mass in the
open ground. The effect would be still better
if the flowers could spring from turf or some
very close growing carpet plant, like Cotula
dioica, rather than from the brown earth. The
plant has not yet been seven years in cultiva¬
tion, and is still comparatively new, but from
being so perfectly hardy as well as early flower¬
ing, it is steadily making its way in public
estimation. Seed, which can now be obtained,
presents an inexpensive though somewhat
tedious way of getting up a stock of these
desirable bulbs. Seedlings would probably
flower in three years under good cultivation.—
K. L. D.

11087.— Sowing Anemones.— In reply
to “ F. S.,” as to the time to sow these beautiful
flowers, allow me to say that during the next
month is the best time of the whole year for
sowing the seed, either in pans, boxes, or
open ground. The latter is the best plan, as it
saves] all further transplanting. If the soil has
been well cultivated, choose a dry day to level it
down, draw shallow drills, and sow the seed as
thinly as possible. The only way to separate the

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

4

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[March 8, 1884.

teed is to mix it with ashes, sand, or gritty sub¬
stances, rubbing it well with the hands; spread I
it along the drills and cover very lightly. All
the attention it will require is keeping free from
weeds. Seedlings will usually flower well dur¬
ing the following winter and spring, and they
are amongst the hardiest and most beautiful of
out-door flowers.—J.G., Hants.

11127.— Dahlias and Salvias from seed.—Sow
the seeds now and plunge the pots or seedpans in a
gentle bottom heat. Ours are now well up in an ordi¬
nary hotbed.—J. D. E.

THE COMING WEEKS WORK.

Glasshouses.

Ferns and Palms.— Every kind of Fern
should be grown in the temperature most suit¬
able to it, especially during the development of
the young fronds, otherwise no class of plants
suffers more from insect pests. Plants intended
for supplying material for cutting, and which
are now growing freely, must be gradually in¬
ured to more airy structures than the fernery.
When the fronds of these are fully developed
the plants may be placed during the summer in
any cool, shady house ; and when the fronds are
cut they may be again introduced to heat, when
a quick growth of fronds will be produced,
which will be valuable during winter. Plants
growing in temperate and cool houses on rock-
work should now receive a top-dressing, placing
a little rough compost round their collars to in¬
duce a good ramification. Surface the soil over
with flaky Moss to keep the roots good and
moist, and to assist in keeping up a healthy
degree of moisture in the house. Large green¬
house Palms should also receive a good top¬
dressing, using for them a good strong loam,
with the addition of a little peat, to prevent too
much cohesiveness.

Calceolarias and Pelargoniums that have
now filled their pots with roots and are pushing
up their flower-stems should now have occasional
doses of liquid manure. Keep a vigilant look
out to see that insects do not get established upon
them. Pelargoniums, both large flowered and
fancy, will now be showing their flowers; and as
the roots by this time will have taken full posses¬
sion of the soil, they should be supplied with
manure water once or twice a week. If atten¬
tion in this matter be not paid to these plants,
there is a difficulty in keeping the foliage of
that dark green healthy hue which so much
enhances their appearance when in flower.

Climbers.— Passion Flowers should be pruned
well in, and the soil in which tbej^ are growing
should be thoroughly saturated with water, so
as to induce them to start freely into growth.
Cut in the branches of Habrothamnuses. Several
of the free-growing Fuchsias are well suited for
conservatory roof decoration or that of pillars,
especially when planted out in borders. If
trained to the rafters from the middle of April
until they are completely denuded of side
branches in the end of Ootober or November, or
for the purpose of resting them and admitting
light to the other inmates of the house, they
form objects of interest, being richly laden dur¬
ing all that time with both flowers and foliage.

Fine-leaved plants.— Cuttings of Coleus
struck early should be potted as they require it,
pinched at the third joint, and the plants be
kept near the fight. Iresines form attractive
summer objects in conservatories; therefore,
treat them like Coleuses. Caladiums started in
small pots should be shifted into larger ones
before their roots become entangled. In making
up baskets for suspending in the conservatory,
keep them in a warm house until they are in
active growth, when they may be gradually
hardened off, so as to withstand the cooler tem¬
perature to which they are to be subjected.

Keep up a young and healthy stock of Fuch¬
sias, Heliotropes, Petunias, and other plants for
early blooming; those treated more hardily
flower later. Winter-blooming Begonias should
now be cut over, and a stock of cuttings put in.
Where a regular supply of flowers is required,
few plants surpass Begonias, taking them all
the year round. Gardenias swelling their buds
should be liberally fed with liquid manure
Achimenes that have commenced to grow freely
imy now be propagated, using for the purpose
the young growing points. As soon as seedling
Gloxinias are fit to handle, these should be
pricked out into pans or round the edges of

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small pots, using an open peaty soil, with a
liberal addition of sand.

Flower Garden.

Where hardy flowers of a permanent character
are employed, such as the commoner sorts of
bulbs. Primroses, &cc., the garden will now pre¬
sent a gay appearance. Any mixed varieties of
Primroses should be marked now when they are
in bloom, and lifted as soon as the blooming
season is over. In beds of simple design, such
as circles, ovals, or squares, cut in the turf in
snug sheltered corners where evergreens form
cosy nooks, Dielytra spectabilis looks well in
early summer, and it may be succeeded by
Dahlias, Cannas, or any of the numerous fine-
foliaged plants. Where a good supply of com¬
paratively tender annuals, such as Nemophilas
and Virginian Stocks, was sown in small pots
late in the autumn and wintered in cold pits,
they may now be safely planted out, provided
they have been carefully hardened off by full
exposure. As the flowers of Hyacinths progress
above ground they must be carefully staked and
tied, otherwise they are very liable to be broken
off by rough winds.

Herbaceous borders. —Mulching material
put on early in the winter ought now to be
forked in. Be careful not to disturb the roots
of Lilies, as they, more than most subjects, are
impatient of any interference at this season.
Summer and autumn - blooming herbaceous
plants, such as Phloxes, Asters, or any flowers
that exist in large masses when the season is
considerably advanced, it will be well to divide
at the present time, as by this means their roots
will be placed within reach of fresh soil, which
will strengthen them and enable them to bloom
better. Any choice plants that are subject to
the attacks of slugs will be benefited by having

1 inch of coal-ashes placed round them; though
this will not altogether prevent the slugs
from attacking them, it will, in a great
measure, hinder them from harbouring under
the plants.

Pansies and Phloxes.— The surface of the
ground should sow be stirred with a pointed
stick, and all weeds should be carefully removed
with the fingers. If there be sufficient space
between the plants, it will be as well to run
the hoe amongst them. Mulch the surface
of the beds with rotten manure. Phloxes never
succeed well unless the ground is deeply trenched
and well manured ; this ought to be done in the
autumn, so that the frosts of winter may pul¬
verise the soil, and it ought to be turned over
two or three times. If cuttings have not yet
been put in, insert some at once. Cuttings put
in early, and rooted in a gentle bottom-heat, are
very useful for flowering in pots in the autumn.
The plants must be potted on and carefully at¬
tended to, or they will not flower until the
second year.

Dahlias. —Cuttings must now be put in of
all the varieties as fast as they can be obtained.
They should be taken off when they are about

2 inches ih length. Place each cutting in a
small pot, and plunge the pots closely together
in the mild heat of an ordinary manure frame,
keeping the latter closed till the cuttings are
rooted. They will not all form roots about
the same time; some will take many weeks;
the gross growths with hollow stems take the
longest time.

Robes. —The general pruning of Roses must
now be proceeded with. Dwarfs on their own
roots are, as a rule, the best for flower garden
decoration. If a large portion of the old wood
be cut out and the strongest shoots of preceding
years cut in about one-third of their length and
pegged down with stout wooden pegs, they will
flower their entire length. Instead of digging
Rose beds, we usually remove a little of the
surface-soil, apply a coat of thoroughly rotted
manure, and cover it with good loam. This will
be worked in during the season, and will keep
the plants in luxuriant health. Amongst the
most continuous flowerers must be reckoned the
pink and crimson Chinas; these in single beds
or in pairs by the margins of walks in pleasure
grounds are always gay from early in June
until severe frosts occur.

Fruit.

Grafting of new or improved varieties of fruit
on inferior kinds can now be done. If the stocks
were headed down a couple of months ago all
the better, though this need not be an obstacle,

as no real harm will be done by cutting them
down now. Cleft or wedge grafting is that '
which we practise and recommend as being at
once simple, expeditously done, and effective
Work the clay well over the grafts in order to
exclude both air and rain, and keep a reserve of
clay to renew any damage that may be caused
by frost loosening it from the stocks.

Cuttings of Gooseberries and Currants can be
made, and planted now at any time. Single¬
stemmed bushes should always be preferred;
therefore, select the young growths of last year,
which should be at least. 9 inches long, 12 inches
or 15 inches not being too much. Pick out al
the eyes or buds except two or three at top, am
plant firmly in rows 18 inches apart and >
inches apart in the row. They will root in a fet
weeks, and as growth proceeds pick out anr
buds that may appear near the surface of tte
soil or through it, the object being to form a
tree that shall have a single stem, and be fie
from suckers. Transplant any cuttings tht
were put in last season, giving them abat
double the space which they have had as ci¬
tings, and next year they will be sufficient*
large to form permanent plantations. Estab¬
lished plantations of Gooseberries and Currans
should be lightly “ pointed ” over and a liberal
mulching of stable manure be afterwards given
them.

Vegetables.

Pits and frames containing Carrots, Pota
toes, and saladings should now be more freeh
ventilated, and eventually be left open entirely
except when frost seems imminent. Radishe
and Mustard and Cress may now be sown in th
open air. Seedlings of Tomatoes and Caps-
cams should be pricked out and grown on
moderate warmth for the present; also Celei
Cauliflowers, Coleworts, and Lettuces that ha
been raised in heat should be gradually inuil
to bear open-air culture, and be planted 4
before there is any danger of the roots gett£
matted together. When dry, stir the il
amongst all growing crops, such as Cabbas,
Lettuces, Onions, and Spinach; it both la
growth and keeps down weeds.

Herb beds should now have a general off- I
haul, as those kinds that are propagaterjty
division of the roots should at once redve '
attention. Balm, Chamomile, Fennel, Hyop,
pot Marjoram, Mint, Pennyroyal, Savorymd
Tarragon may all now be divided ; for, if
the present plantations produce abundaa ap¬
plies, a renewal is desirable, if only fr the
sake of better appearance. Angelica lrnet,
Chervil, Dill, Sage, and Thyme are best Used
from seed.

Potatoes. — In favoured localitiei e to
climate, i.e , where there is no dang«rd the
haulm being cut off by spring frosts, P»tato
planting may be completed; but, as a ereral
rule, the early part of April is sufficimtl early
for all parts of the kingdom ; meanwhijhow-
ever, the seed tubers should have attetm as
regards sprouting, this being of nore ^>ort-
ance with respect to after success h is
generally supposed. Those that havbeen
planted on warm borders will require be
closely watched to see that protection is plied
as soon as they appear above ground ; \ soil
drawn over them with a hoe will serve fpur-
pose for a considerable time until th^ulm
gets too long, then fitter or dry bv*n is
necessary.

Peas and Broad Beans should barfed,for
protection, as growth proceeds, anc™© inner
should be staked early for the sam4 )nr P* and
also to keep off birds. Cauliflowf P lan | »ay
be safely transferred from their v^ ter Jjrten
to the open ground; in doing h 1B * fifth®
with as much soil adhering to t© m as pqble,
and plant them in deep drills v&fi e

extra labour of so planting th m
than compensated for by the rogTess whi|he
plants will immediately ma©- The dnlfct
as protectors from cutting vflds till thefts
have got established, when ney ma y ^
and no other earthing u> will be nece K
With the exception of Bet, and late so i
Carrot, which run to seer when sown too f ,
and the finest Marrow Pas and French J
which do not germinat- kindly till the g I
rets warmer, general sowings of all othei ■
table seeds named ir former calendars i
be made at once, t»gether with open r
sowings of Kales, Savoys, and Broccoli. >

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URRANA-GHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

5

ales, the hardiest are Cottagers’ and dwarf
tirled Scotch.

Cucumbers. —A good hotbed should now be
iade for a two or a three*light frame, according
y the requirements, on which to plant out the
ui cumbers sown some weeks back. This bed
eight to be made 4 feet or feet high, the ma-
rxre being well prepared. If the plants have
lied with roots the small-sized pots, do not
How them to become stunted; they may be
1 oved to others 8 inches or 9 inches in diameter,
jad kept in these till the bed in which they are
o be planted is ready to receive them. It is
veil to have the plants a good size before being
>ut out in the bed in which they are to be grown,
ls they will thus come into bearing before it
rets oold, which will give less trouble in the
application of linings through the weather gat¬
ing warmer. If the seed-bed which the plants
iow occupy be getting cold, add more heating
material round the sides. A little Melon seed

INDOOR PLANTS;

The smaller flowered Bucharis (E.

Candida).—The more we see of this beautiful
bulbous plant the more wo are convinced of its
great value, particularly for affording an abun¬
dant and continuous supply of cut flowers
during winter. It is not second even in beauty
to its popular congener, E. amazonica, and,
being smaller, it is even more desirable, espe¬
cially for association with other cut flowers.
The blossoms are about a third smaller than
those of the Amazon Lily, but are of the same
waxy texture and snowy whiteness, save the
cup, which is tinged with a greenish yellow.
It is a vigorous grower, and develops leaves
as large or even larger than E. amazonica, and
continues to produce flower-spikes throughout
the winter if grown in a moist, warm plant-
house. It may be successfully grown in a good,
turfy loam, enriched by a little well decayed

some resemblance to those of Lapageria. Most
people who are interested in herbaceous plants
are well acquainted with Alstroemerias, and those
who have cool houses will gladly welcome the
closely allied species of Bomarea, which not un-
frequently receive the name of Climbing Alstroe¬
merias. “ It is called the Climbing Lily, 1 ' said a
gardener for my information, in reference to the
beautiful plant in question, and it is a title
which fits it well. There are several handsome
species of Bomarea in cultivation, and as they
come from the high, mountainous districts of New
Grenada and Quito, all they require as to tem¬
perature is to be kept from actual frost. B. con-
ferta is the only scarlet flowered species in
cultivation, and may be, perhaps, considered the
finest of the genus. It is a most valuable addi¬
tion to the list of climbing plants adapted for
culture in cool greenhouses.—K. L. D.

Niootiana afflnis.— Some few months ago
a correspondent of Gardening remarked that

The small-flowered Eucharis (E. Candida).

should also now be sown in small pots similar to
those recommended for Cucumbers. It will
ncceed in the seed-bed in which they have been

; raised.

Edgings for gardens.— After trying
t lrioos materials for these, I have proved black
vitrified stable bricks, though perhaps a little
more expensive than some other articles, the
cheapest and most satisfactory in the end.
They afford no harbour for vermin, and no foot¬
ed for mosses or fungi, and are practically in-
l destructible. They are set on edge with the face
Side towards the path, and may be either sunk
.Itod with the soil or raised a little above it. I
‘jtee the kind with a channel across the centre to
with the joined ends, which if they are
0 Jtcperly laid are scarcely visible. If, by the
5 toion of frost on the soil or from other causes,
i- become out of line, a blow with the foot
it right again. They cost at the nearest
^pilway station to me about 14s. a hundred, but
. ’near the kilns they could be got for
dcrably less.—J. M., Dorset .

r Jprobably>

fccsidetabl

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manure. In Messrs. Shuttleworth and Carder’s
nursery at Clapham, who have imported the
plant from South America by the thousand,
there is now a beautiful display of bloom; some
huge specimens in 14-inch pots bearing a quan¬
tity of flower-spikes, as many as ten and a
dozen blooms on each, is really a lovely sight
at this season.

Bomarea oonferta. —In one of the cool
plant houses in the nurseries of Messrs. Paul
and Son, Cheshunt, there is in bloom at the
present time a fine specimen of this most
beautiful of early flowering climbers. It is
planted against the end of the house in a bed of
soil where it can root freely, and the strong
shoots, covered with a purple pubescent bloom,
which are making their way upwards to succeed
those already in flower, tell of the most vigorous
health. These shoots are trained to a wire
stretched along the ridge of the house, a few
inches from the glass, and are well clothed with
dark green leaves. Each shoot terminates in a
crowded drooping cluster of bright crimson
flowers, which, though individually smaller, bear

Nicotiana aftinis, or scented white-flowered
Tobacco plant, is generally, if not always, spoken
of as an annual, and suggested that an experi¬
ment should be tried for the purpose of ascer¬
taining whether it could not be possible to get it
to flower a second season. Acting upon his
hint, I cut down a plant I had purchased last
summer after it had flowered most beautifully
for a long time, and was delighted to find that
it soon commenced to again show signs of
activity. At the present moment it stands about
2 feet high, has not lost a single leaf, and car¬
ries a good-sized head of bloom, one of the
flowers being just about to open. The plant
altogether looks far healthier than it did last
year, and the old stem has quite a woody ap¬
pearance. Will it be possible to cut it down
again in the same way at the end of the present
season with equally satisfactory results, I wonder ?

I intend to try.—J. H. D.

Daphne Blagayana — In great contrast
to our naturalised Mezereon (Daphne Meze-
reum), with its leafless branches now rosy with
fragrant bloom (February 23rd), are the white

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

I.

GARDENING 1LEUHXDMXJH.U

0

flower heads of its Styrian congener—Daphne
Blagayana. This species is so hardy and dwarf,
and withal so readily increased by layers, that
it promises to become a favourite plant. Now
that we are returning to our allegiance to good
border flowers, how many may be found to make
our gardens gay as well as interesting during
the earliest months of the year. This little
Daphne, which may still be reckoned new to cul¬
tivation, is so dwarf, that plants of it only
two inches high may be seen in flower, and the
fragrant creamy-white clusters are well set off
by the collar of deep green leaves which surrounds
them. If desired, it may be grown in a cold
frame in pots or pans, which would probably
answer better, as it is somewhat straggling in
habit, and, like the pink summer species—D.
Cneorum, is all the better for having all its
branches pegged down. On account of its
sweetness, it might in this way be used with
advantage in the unheated greenhouse, which
may be equally said of the common Mezereon,
a shrub by no means to be despised for this pur¬
pose ; but D. Blagayana will, in all likelihood,
find a more congenial home in the shady part
of the alpine garden than under glass.—K. L. D.

Culture of the Cockscomb.— The first
important thing to grow good Cockscombs is to
procure a good strain of seed from some reliable
seedsman; having done so, prepare a pan by
half filling it with crocks, then a layer of moss,
finishing up with soil composed of leaf-mould,
loam, and sand, put through a quarter-inch
sieve. Make the surface of the soil level by
pressing it, then give a thorough good watering,
letting the pan drain for ten minutes previous
to sowing the seed; cover the seed very lightly,
and place, if convenient, on a hotbed; if not,
the seed will germinate readily in any warm
structure. As soon as the plants are large enough
to handle, pot them singly in 3-inch pots, still
keeping them in heat, and as close to the glass
as possible, till they show their flower heads,
when the plants may be potted into 44-inch
pots, using a little decayed cow manure with
the soil. Continue potting as the plants may
require it, and gradually harden them to a cold
pit. After they are in their flowering pots, give
the surface of the Boil a sprinkling of Clay’s
fertilizer once a week, which will improve
them wonderfully.—J. Hinton, Bagshot Park.

11120. — Plants for shaded green¬
house.—The very best climbers for your house
would be Lapageria rosea and its variety alba.
There are plenty of hardy Ferns suitable for
such a house. Of deciduous species none can
equal the varieties of the Lady Fern, some of
the best are Athyrium Filix-faimina, Craigi,
cristatum, Fieldire, grandiceps, Lowi, super¬
bum, plumosum, Vernonire, and Victoria ; Aspi-
dium Goldieanum, Lastrea Filix-mas Barnesi, Pin-
deri, magnifica, crispum, cristatum, and grandi¬
ceps ; Onoclea sensibilis, Osmunda gracilis, Poly¬
podium vulgare var. cornubiense, Polystichum
angulare var. grandidens, multifidum, proli-
ferum, rotundatum, and cristatum; Scolopen-
drium vulgare crispum, crispum cristatum, and
Kelwayi; Struthiopteris germanica, Trichomanes
radicans.—J. D. E.

11119.—Treatment of Phcenocomas.
—This plant is very easily grown in an ordinary
greenhouse if it receives the treatment suitable
to it. The plants should be potted in fibrous
peat, with a little loam added to it, and sand, if
necessary; nothing else. Drain the pots well,
and place tho plants in a light airy part of the
house. The main difficulty with the inex¬
perienced is to know the right quantity of water
to give. This plant does not show distress for
want of water, as a soft-wooded plant does, and
it might have been past recovery before it was
observed. Too much water would be equally in¬
jurious. You will be quite successful if you
can manage the watering.—J. D. E.

11118.—Habrothamnua not flowering.
—I have a large plant of the above, which
always has some flower on it. The way to grow
them in pots is this: Strike some cuttings and
pick all the bloom off until the plants are about
2 feet high, at the same time nipping out the
tops of the shoots when about 6 inches long,
which will make them branch out in all directions;
after this they should never be stopped, as the
bloom always comes at the end of the shoots.
Once a year it is advisable to prune them back a
little when they have grown large plants, as this

Digitized by GOOglf

causes a lot of fresh growths,which are sure to yield
blossoms. I must say mine is grown in a warm
greenhouse of 60° and is helped with liquid
manure now and then.—C. P. C.

11124.— Erica hyemalis. — When this
plant has ceased flowering, you ought to cut
back the flowering growths to about 3 inches or
4 inches from the base. The plants should then
be placed in a cool, airy greenhouse near the
glass. When they have started to grow, it is a
good time to repot them. Plants in 6-inch pots
should be repotted in 8-inch pots, using good
fibrous peat torn into small bits, and in potting
press the peat firmly round the sides of the ball.
Heaths of this kind are better without heat,
and watering must be carefully attended to.—
J. D. E.

Seedling Cyclamens.— Mr. R. W.Beachy,
Finder, Eingskerswell, South Devon, has Bent
us some blooms of seedling Cyclamen persicum.
The plants from which these flowers were
gathered were raised from seed sown on the
9th March, 1883. They are remarkably fine,
some of the blossoms being 2£ inches in length,
and the individual petals in some cases are an
inch in width. The colours also are very fine.

11104.— Camellia buds falling off —The reoon
that the buds drop off ia doubtless owing to the dry heat
from the adjacent chimney. A heat of this kind is very
injurious to the shrub. It is better not to apply liquid
manure at this season ; that is best applied while growth
is being made during the summer months.—J. D. E.

Clematis lndivlsa. — This lovely New Zealand
climber is blooming more freely than usual this season,
owing possibly to the exceptional mildness hitherto of
the winter. It is so nearly hardy, and flowers so early,
that it is surprising we do not And its pure white stars
adorning more of our cool greenhouses.—K. L. D.

Scented leaved Geraniums —There are many
other varieties of these besides those named by “ H.” in
Gardening Illustrated, viz., Green Stratford, Querci-
folium coccineum, G'itriodorum maximum and minimum,
Laurancianum, Fair Helen, Lady Scarborough, Tansy.—
G. H.

11126.— Primulas and Cyclamens.— As soon as
theso have flowered they ought to be placed on a shelf
near the glass in an airy house or pit, and be sparingly
supplied with water.—J. D. E.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

TRANSPLANTING EVERGREENS.

There are those who aver that autumn is the
proper time for transplanting evergreens, and
they sometimes do very well at that season if
moved early, but much depends on the winter
following, which, if severe, sadly cuts them up,
and no wonder, for with roots disturbed and
their vitality at a low ebb, the sap is dried out of
them, and they become withered sticks and cease
to exist. If they can be planted in September
so as to get fresh hold of the ground, they may
weather through, but if moved much later they
stand a poor chance, as though the winter may
be mild, like the past has been, there is March
to contend with, which, with its searching east
winds and keen blasts, is often the worst of the
whole.

The time I like to commence the work is the
first week in April, and the things to start on
are those that begin to grow first, as the great
point is to catch them before their buds burst
and they get young shoots, which in their thin,
tender state are sure to suffer. Box, Rhododen¬
drons, Aucubas, and others of that class that lift
with large balls may safely be left till the
last, and the more important, such as conifers,
taken first. To ensure success with these,
wide trenches should be opened around them
at varying distances from the stems accord¬
ing to the size and age of the plants to be
operated on. For a tree 10 feet to 12 feet
high, the trench should be at least a yard off, into
which trench the earth can easily be forked from
amongst the roots when their points are all clear.
After tracing them back in this way, and working
well under them, the plant may be lifted bodily
by placing a lever beneath the ball and put on to
a low “ rulley,”and thus dragged to thejpositions
required. In doing all this great care should be
exercised not to bruise or injure the roots, and
it is equally important that they do not become
dried. To prevent this it is necessary to have
them covered during transit with wet mats, and
to have the holes all in readiness for putting
them in. These should be dug much larger
than the roots are likely to extend, and the
bottom also broken deeply up, the object being
to give the plants every chance to work freely
in the soil, which they would not be able to do

UNI'

were the earth undisturbed, and the progress of
the trees under such adverse circumst&cot:
must therefore be slow. When placing them in
the holes, the chief point is to see that the
roots are properly spread out with the points
leading down, and that the collars of the plants
are on the same level with the ground as
before, for to bury them deeper is very injurious
and when done, ends in throwing trees out of
health. Another thing that is very apt to do
this is leaving cavities among the roots by not
filling in the spaces, and the only way to do this
thoroughly is to wash the soil there, which may
be done effectually by throwing a quantity of
water quickly and with some force into the
holes, when at the same time the plants should
be gently swayed to and fro, and then left still
and quiet for it to settle and subside, after
which the final filling up may take place. With
this complete, the next thing is to
Mulch around the plants by giving a
good thick coating of litter or long manure,
which will prevent the earth cracking and the
moisture escaping, and thus favour the forma
tion of young roots. To keep the trees perfectly
steady, which is a very important matter, they
should be securely staked and tied, and if of
large size it will be necessary to have three poles
for each placed triangularly with the large ends
on the ground and then brought in a rapid; j
slanting direction together at top, so as to take
the stems about three parts of the way up, and
if made fast there, the plant will stand perfectlj
rigid and quite undisturbed by the strongest of
winds. Where neatness is an object, as it alwaj*
is on lawns in sight of windows, galvanised wire
may be used in lieu of poles, as by running it to
stout pegs driven well into the earth, the plant*
may be supported equally well, but a collar of
some kind should be used round the stem to
prevent injury to the bark from chafing by the
friction it gets. If the weather should set in
dry later on after moving the plants, it will be
a great help to them to wet them well over-bead
late in the evening by a jet of water from the
garden engine, which will do much toward*
keeping the rind plump and the leaves fresh till
the roots start, and this, when so favoured, they
very soon do. With small shrubs there is po
trouble or difficulty, as all that is requisite is I
their case is to lift with as good balls as possi¬
bly can be got, and in planting to make the
soil firm around. For Rhododendrons it cannot
well be too solid, and it is a good plan with
these to ram it, as, owing to the hair-like nature
of their roots, they cannot get hold of loose
earth, and water when it is in that condition
drains much too quickly through and leaves the
plants famishing for want of that which they
almost entirely live on.—S. D.

11096.~8taking young tree8.-“ E. W. C. i
enquiry respecting the best method of staking
young trees opens a very important subject, m
I frequently see young trees irreparably injo^j
by careless staking. My own plan is to use good
strong single stakes for single stemmed tree*
that have but very little top growth, or such as
fruit and forest standard trees, when they are
first planted, driving them into the soil firm*?
about 6 inches clear of the stem, then place soft
hay bands or woollen cloth round the stem, and
bind it firmly to the stake with tar string or
cord. For specimen plants or shrnb-like trees,
conifers, or any spreading tree, take three stout
stumps of wood and drive firmly into the soil
outside the spread of branches, and take stout
cords, fasten them to the stem about two- third*
of its height from the ground, and secure them
to the stumps. This is the safest plan or
staking I have ever tried. —J. Groom, Gotport-

11128.—Grafting Rhododendrons —jj*
good month In which to graft Rhododendron*. Au
may also be grafted at this time.—J. D. E.

Mice and Peas. —I have found the foh
lowing plan successful in preventing the
being destroyed by mice. Dissolve some poi^jt
in water, in this put some Peas, and let the*
soak, say, for twenty-four hours, then to
evening strew them along by the rows of
and they will be eaten by the mice. I* a v£
should remain in the morning, they cMj
gathered up if there is any danger of
pigeons straying in the garden. The above
also apply to pleasure grounds where Croc«J
roots, &c., may be destroyed, in fact, any* 1 ^
where there are mice.— J. Luxon, Cornttai ■

/ERSITY OF ILLINOIS
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

7

March 8, 1884.]

FRUIT.

When to prune Peaches.— The ques-
n of when to prune Peaches and other stone
lits is a most important one, for it has grown
o an established custom to give the trees what
termed a good thinning out at the winter
aning; but after several years’ trial of doing
the pruning the trees require while the leaves
; on the trees, I am convinced it is far the best
m, as the cuts heal over directly, whereas if
t when the trees are leafless, the shoots are
ihle to die back, and terminal buds hardly
er fail to start into growth freely. Shoots
ortened at the winter pruning frequently fail
start their wood buds, consequently the flower-1
g buds are useless. I have, therefore, long given
) shortening the shoots and leave them full
ngth, relying on disbudding early, only
aving shoots that are really required to fill up.
be tree is allowed to grow unchecked, and be-
•re the young shoots, of the current year’s
,*ovrth need tying down to the trellis, all barren
loots are cut out, and directly the crop is
ithered all the old bearing wood is cut out,
le young shoots that have been left at their
ase being brought down to replace them,
hen this is done in the latter part of the sum-
\er, the wood gets well ripened by being fully
xposed, and there is really no need for pruning
i winter, as there is nothing to prune. Asa
eneral rule, far too much young wood is laid in,
or it is hardly possible to thin sufficiently; in
ict it is not advisable to defoliate the trees too
ipidly, and summer pinching and pruning
hoald be done by gently progressive stages,
topping the leading shoots that are not required
o extend, also all those that have fruit at their
ase, as this keeps up circulation of sap, and
rovides leafage until young shoots extend to fill
p the space.- J. G., Hants.

Raspberries —Having seen several articles
ately in Gardening on Raspberry culture,
•How me to give my experience of Raspberry
ieglect. We live about a mile from the sea,
etween Liverpool and Southport, consequently
he soil is light and sandy. About sixteen years
igo, when the garden was quite new, we brought
i number of canes with us from the sonth.
They have been left entirely to day-gardeners,
*bo prune them as they think fit, sometimes
tying them together in bushes, and sometimes
ircling two together. They seldom get any
manure, have never had any supports, and are
often almost choked with weeds, and yet they
bear most abundantly very fine fruit. There are
nosuch Raspberries grown in this neighbourhood
at least bo the gardeners tell us—and I have
seldom seen finer fruit in the Liverpool shops or
market. Last year, owing to the very dry spring,
a great many clusters of blossoms were nipped
half-way through the stalks by caterpillars or
grubs, but we had a very good crop notwith¬
standing. Red Currants and Gooseberries, with
no more attention, are equally fine and produc¬
tive. Apples and Potatoes are very large, but
Cherries and Pears do badly.—X. Y. Z.

11005.— Ribston Pippin Apple.—* 1 R.

P A. T.” enquires if this old favourite can be
successfully grown as a dwarf, to which I can
confidently state that in no other method can it
he more successfully grown ; in fact, except in
orchards, where it is desirable to have tail-
stemmed trees, simply for the reason of keeping
the branches above the reach of cattle, there is
nothing to be said in favour of standards, and
tor general use dwarf bush trees are altogether
preferable. Get them grafted on what are
termed “ Paradise,” or dwarfing stocks, as they
check over-luxuriance of growth, form a
maw of fibrous surface roots, whilst the wood is
of moderate strength, well ripened, and bloom-
tads are abundantly produced. Quite small
trees begin to bear at the second year after
r anting, and produce fruit of the highest excel¬
lence. Very little pruning is necessary for these
dwarf bubh trees, merely pinching the points out
• of the strongest shoots in summer, so as to con¬
grats the vigour of the tree on the swelling
' the crop and the maturing fruit buds for
mother year. Liberal feeding, by means of top
-rwsing'to keep the roots near the surface, is
the greatest importance. For small gardens
is no other mode of Apple culture to corn¬
ice with this, as a good many varieties can be
^Itivated in but little space, and the bushes,
Pyramids, or espaliers do not shade other cro]

Digitized by

like tall standards, and, taking one season with
another, are far more prolific and reliable. The
Ribston Pippin still ranks as one of the finest
dessert apples in cultivation, and the idea that it
is worn out is entirely erroneous, for on these
dwarfing stocks the fruit comes clear and
bright, and without a trace of disease or speck
of any kind.— James Groom, Gosport.

11066.— Fruit trees from outtlngre.—

“ W. F. B.” asks if the branches of an old Apple
tree will strike root if put in as cuttings, to
which I can confidently say yes, as I have rooted
them on several occasion?, but they should be
planted in the autumn soon after the fall of the
leaf. I find good sized branches of several years’
growth root better than young pieces of wood,
for I never could get them to root so readily.
As regards the shoots of Plum trees rooting in
the same way, I cannot give “ W. F. B." any en¬
couragement, as I have not tried the plan my¬
self, and do not think it would answer; and I
may also add that shoots from a tree that is evi¬
dently dying are not the ones to select for trial,
as, if they do grow for a time, the growth will
only be weakly. Cuttings of any kind used
should be taken from the healthiest trees or
plants available.— J. Groom, Gosport.

11063.— Good Apple district.—I think
“ J. Bartrop ” will find that this district, lying
to the north of the market town of Witney,
Oxfordshire, is justly noted among the large
fruit dealers for the excellent quality of the
Apples grown here, especially the Blenheim
Orange, which a large buyer assured me last
season could not be procured so bright and clear
from any other district with which he was ac¬
quainted. Our soil is a good free loam, in which
the trees flourish and bear well, as a proof of
which I may say that many of the trees in my
own orchard measure as much as from 5 feet to
6 feet round the trunk, although they have only
been planted 40 years.—F. H., Gig ley Farm,
near \Yitney % Oxon.

11055. — Planting vines.— Black Ham¬
burgh Grapes would do well enough in the space
mentioned. If you could have an outside bor¬
der with arches in the front wall to let out the
roots, so much the better. It would not be ad¬
visable to plant vines that were forced last year.
If I were planting vines myself, I would plant,
about the beginning of June, vines propagated
from eyes in the spring of the same year. They
start away far better than vines a year old and
planted in the spring.—J. Robertson, Coir-
denknoYve*.

11130.—Melons In frames.—' These aro grown 1“
frames in exactly the same manner as Cucumbers, and P
you aTe successful with the one. there is no reason why
you should not be equally successful with the other. As
Boon as the female blossoms open they should be im¬
pregnated.—J. D. E.

VEGETABLES.

i shade other crops I m

Google

Double cropping.— There is not much ad
vantage in double cropping, only in the case of
small gardens, where a gardener has to supply a
large family from a small garden. He most
double crop, or the supply will run short. The
way I crop the garden under my charge is to
plant all kinds of Winter Greens between the
rows of Potatoes, with the exception of Brussels
Sprouts ; they want plenty of room and air to do
them well. I plant my Potatoes three feet apart,
and plant Savoys, and Cabbages, Kale, and
Cauliflower between the rows. Last year
planted three sorts of Potatoes only—Hyatt’s
Ashleaf, Snowflake, and Magnum Bonum. one
bushel of each. The yield was forty-one bush¬
els of sound Potatoes. I may add the ground
was heavily manured after the earthing up. As
the other plants became ready, they were dibbled
between the rows. Potatoes planted this dis¬
tance apart should be earthed up at two different
times, as the greater the bank of earth the
better the chance of a good crop.—C. Junes,
Sidcup.

11053— Tomatoes In frames— Having
tried to grow Tomatoes out-of-doors for three
years here, and utterly failed, I thought last
year I would grow them in a two-light Cucum¬
ber frame, and succeeded in ripening all the
fruit—about one hundred and fifty. As soon as
the plants required support, I made a trellis
work supported at the four corners and in the
middle by sticks stuck in the ground, which I

may say I excavated 1 foot deep of soil from the
bottom to get more height. As I had no other
frame in which to grow Cucumbers, I had to go
without, so I thought I would build myself two
frames, as I am an amateur gardener as well as
carpenter. Two frames cost me ill 5s. each for
material, and can be taken to pieces in five
minutes. The glass I got through an advertise¬
ment in this paper.— T. H. Haynes.

- You may grow Tomatoes successfully in

an ordinary frame. Grow them in pots, but in¬
stead of training them along the ground, erect a
trellis-work about 9 inches from the glass and
train to it. You may grow them well in a lean-to
house trained on the back wall, if there is nothing
in front of them to shade them from the sun,
but they would do better trained just underneath
the glass if you could manage it.— J. Robertson,
Con'dcnknowes.

Planting 1 Potatoes. —As the time for
planting Potatoes is now approaching, it may
interest some of your readers to know the result
of my last year’s crop. Hyatt’s Prolific was
an abundant crop, very little diseased; Adiron¬
dack, excellent crop, scarcely any diseased;
Late Beauty of Hebron, heavy crop, scarcely
any diseased, one root produced 7£ lbs. ; Im¬
proved Gem. most prolific, very large, scarcely
any diseased ; Rob Roy, heavy crop, large and
prolific, quite free from disease ; Schoolmaster,
Peachblow, and a Red Kidney (name unknown),
bad crop, yield small and much diseased; St.
Patrick and Snowflake, excellent crop, large
and prolific, much diseased; Magnum Bonum,
good crop, no disease ; soil inclined to be heavy,
subsoil clay, with sandy loam in part.—A
Leicestershire Amateur.

Preserving young Peas from birds.

—I have saved my Peas from birds by dustiDg
them over with soot, and by covering the rows
with an inch of wood ashes as soon as the Peas
begin to show above ground. A market gar¬
dener tells me that if a little soil is raked over
the rows when first the Peas begin to show
themselves, the birds will not touch them when
they come through the soil a second time.—
Derby Dilly.

Turnip tops.—I have taken from a heap of Swede 8
(laid up in autumn for the benefit of my pig and covered
with a foot or bo of soli) tops equal in appearance to
small Seakale, and in fact hardly to be distinguished
from it, except that there is the turnip flavour.— Derby
Dilly.

Tomatoes by post.— Will someone kindly tell me
the best kind of box, at a moderate price, for sending
Tomatoes by parcels post ?—W. L. O.

ROSES.

The Rose election, 1883 —There was
no estimating or calculating. The position in the
list was solely arrived at by the nu mber of votes
given to each Rose. The “ Rosarian’s Year Book,”
of course, could not give space enough to repeat
the whole operation, and I hesitated to give
even the particulars I did, well knowing the
difficulty there is to find room, week by week,
for your kind information. If*‘K. W.” would
write to Mr. Hinton, Warminster. I am sure that
gentleman would gladly avail himself of the ex¬
perience “ K. W.” appears to have bad with all
kinds of Roses, and, doubtless, when another
election takes place, “ K. W.” will receive the
usual voting papers to record his opinion. This
will be “ an extension of the franchise in the
empire of the Queen of Flowers,” as suggested
by “ K. W.” I should be most happy to fee
Catherine Mermefc (perhaps the most perfect
and lovely Tea), Souvenir d’Elise, and Souvenir
d’un Ami (both truly grand), included in the
list of garden Roses. But I fear the ex¬
perience of most people is, that they are far too
delicate. Roses for garden purposes, I take
it, should be hardy, and able to take care of them¬
selves during the winter months. It is only by
careful watching and protecting in severe
weather that the more delicate Teas can be kept
safe, and I fear those named must be so treated
to do any good out of doors, except, perhaps, in
the sunny south. Madame Lambard, Hom&re,
Rubens, Marie Van Houtte, and theGloire.de
Dijon race are to be trusted in ordinary winters,
and it is better to plant snch as these than to
try the more tender sorts and experience disap¬
pointment. No doubt such thoughts as these
guided the voters in their selection of the
various Roses.— William Waiters, Bwrtonon-
Trent.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

8

GAJRDENIJV G IIjJjU fSlJAJUJhu

[WlAKtll

NOTES ON GARDEN DESIGN
Formal edgings destroy the good effect of
many gardens, particularly in ground of natural
and informal design. Where permitted at all,
the situation should call for them, as in a true
terraced garden, and then they should be of the
be9t stone possible under the circumstances.
Formal edgings of mean pattern—tiles, ropes, &c.
—are never admissible in any garden for any
purpose. Far better, and more easily procured
in many districts, arc thin stones, which are set
on edge more easily than cast tiles. Over a
large area of the land some kind of stone natu¬
rally cloven into a useful size is procurable. In
other districts Hints are common; half sunk in
the ground, and with rock plants running among
them, they are prettier than any form of cast
edging. Even bricks half sunk are better, and
well fitted for the kitchen garden. If it is not
possible to do better, use a live edging of Box
or some rock plant. Stones get so prettily
mossed over, and are so friendly to alpine plants,
that they often may be said to be live edgings.

Variety. —There should be no limit to this
consistent with beauty and repose. There need
be no limit to variety, considering the rich stores
of living things we have from every part of the
world and the endless difference they show, and
not merely among themselves as species. A
single kind often has striking differences,
according to the varied soils in which it grows.
The still greater variety of aspects, elevations,
or climates in which it is hardy will influence it
more. A tree may pass without notice in one
country and be grand in another.

Plantations should not be hard, angular, or
square in outline—a rule good always, and for
the sake of near views its truth is fully seen in
bold and diversified country, where the outlines
of the plantations are what strike the eye most.
Excellent work in planting may be weakened in
effect by want of attention to this point, as may
be noticed in the woods on the hills near Bangor,
as seen from Beaumaris, and in many other
places. In the case of established plantations
it is not difficult to break the outlines
artistically by letting bold, chosen groups stand
without the true boundary or fence of the
plantation. Such groups, or even 3mall groves,
would be no disadvantage, but a gain in the
grazing fields to whioh so much of our hill and
other land is devoted.

Simplicity. —All other arts depend for their
success to some extent on cost and labour. In
the garden landscape the highest success results
from simple methods—from abolishing costs and
complications instead of creating these. Given
the understanding and the observing eye, we
shall have beauty at less pains than ugliness.
Bat this is only possible where gardening is a
reflex of nature in its happiest aspects, and not
a transferring to the ground of the “ decora¬
tor’s ” dreadful and profitless art. Keep him to
the fire-shovel, side-board, or clock if he “ must
live,” though we prefer even these things with¬
out his mark upon them.

The colours of rocks in gardens.—
These should be quiet and low. It may seem a
rale not often called for, but as I have, the day
I wrote this, seen over a dozen rockeries of a
staring hard white colour, it is not so. In cer¬
tain parts of the country it is the fashion to
choose colours of a glaring character for this
purpose. In parts or Lancashire where smart
villas abound it is almost the rule to have these
white staring rockeries against the red brick
houses ! Granting that the only material obtain¬
able was of a bad or showy colour, it would be
then possible to soften its effects by using only
the best stones, and by burying all but the best
points of these, and then softening them with
the abundant rock-plant life. In any case, one
could avoid using stones at all—not a bad rule
where the making and planting of a rock garden
are not understood.

Ferns.— Graceful and new effects may be de¬
veloped in foregrounds by drives through glades,
and in many other positions by the bold use of
hardy Ferns of the larger kind. The Bracken
we see everywhere ; but some of the others are
more graceful in form, and delight in the
partial shade of open woods and drives, and
even do in the sun. But few will for a long
time practise this, or perhaps understand it,
unless they see the fine efiect of a colony of

opportunity for associations with wood flower
ing plants, according to the nature and Bize of
the Fern. Up to the present time Ferns have,
as a rule, been stowed away in obscure holes,
and never come into the garden landscape at
all. But not only can they give us new and
beautiful aspects of vegetation in the garden
landscape, but even in parks and ornamental
woods of the largest class. The bolder kinds
should be selected and multiplied, and the fit
ness of the position to the Fern must be con
sidered.

Water.— There is no situation where clear
running water may not be made a beautiful as
well as healthful thing, and the opposite in all
ways of the stagnant water—ugly. Artificial
water is wrong when it is at all stiff or mean in
outline, small, too near the house, unclean, mud
nourishing. The greater number of garden arti
ficial waters are of this class—foul, expensive to
clean, occasionally dangerous from steep mar
gins, lawn destroyers. Artificial water to be
good must be large, clean, deep, bold, flashing
light in the open, not near dwellings. It should
be only attempted where there are means
secure the best results. Artificial water should
not he formed in the immediate neighbourhood of
fine natural water, he that river, lake, or sea.
have seen a variety of instances of the violation
of this rule, and with invariable bad effects,
Artemus Ward’s moon was very funny in the
Egyptian Hall, but with all his drollery he
would not present it to us in the open air. Some
public gardens placed on the banks of fine rivers
indulge in the weakness here pointed out,
Natural water should be seen. In an island coun
try, seamed, too, with inlets and rivers, the many
beautiful aspects of natural water should be
jealously brought into every garden picture. The
fashion of over-planting the immediate surround¬
ings of the house, however, often leads to fine
views being lqst in part or whole. The frequent
neglect of woods and plantations, too, leads to
many bright river, bay, and sea scenes being ob¬
scured or hidden. V.

COCOA-NUT REFUSE AND ITS USES,
This substance has been at one time or another
recommended for all kinds of horticultural pur
poses. Its use for potting has been recom¬
mended either by itself or mixed with soil, also
as a medium in which to strike cuttings, as a
plunging material, for top-dressing, and, lastly,
as a manure. When incorporated with potting
soil instead of peat or leaf-mould care should
be exercised as to the subjects for which it is
employed; in the case of most plants I should
certainly prefer either peat or leaf-mould to
it. I have grown Ferns in a compost of which
this refuse formed a part with very satisfactory
results, but with all other subjects on which I
have tried it in this way the results have not
been such as to warrant its continuance.
When employed for potting the particles of
refuse often become affected with a white fun¬
goid growth, and when such happens the roots
make no headway, even if they do not die alto¬
gether. Even if no fungus makes its appearance
when it is used in the case of a general collec¬
tion of plants, their roots will not as a rule be
so healthy as where none is employed after
they have all stood, say, six months. For one
purpose it may be, and often is, used with ad¬
vantage, and that is for mixing in the propor¬
tion of about one-fourth with soils used for
potting off all kinds of quick-growing cuttings.
As these remain in their pots only a short time,
all that is required is a rooting medium, and
one that will hold a certain amount of moisture
without becoming clammy, a purpose which the
fibre helps to fulfil, but even then I should cer¬
tainly prefer well-decayed leaf-mould.

For striking cuttings it is, undoubtedly, a
material of high value, as it seems conducive to
the formation of roots, but in that case the cut¬
tings must not be allowed to remain too long in
it, as when used alone the roots soon decay. For
all kinds of soft-wooded or quick-striking sub¬
jects I use the fibre alone, with the exception of

little sand mixed with it. Into this the
cuttings are inserted, and when sufficiently
rooted potted off without delay. Rather more
care is needed during this operation than when
the roots are made in ordinary soil, as when in

some bold Fern (other than the Bracken) in fibre they are more succulent and brittle, and
possession of a glade. Then would come in the' therefore liable to be broken. Again, when

Google

employed as a pluEgingmaterial, as it of teal
the stove, cuttings of different kinds may bestj
in it, and being sheltered by the plants
head require scarcely any attention until r
A bottom heat bed in this way proves very
for striking a great variety of things. As a
stance in which to plunge pots to protectl
roots from extreme changes, either in or on
doors, this fibre undoubtedly stands in the
rank owing to its lightness and cleanliness,
the readiness with which it may be wor
moreover, the various insect pests do not apl
to much relish the idea of making their
in it. It generates but little heat even
in a good sized heap; therefore it must no|
used for forcing, but solely as a plui
material. For small bottom heat cases in i
stove propagation is carried on, this fibre Bhfl
be often renewed, as in such a close, steamj
mosphere it soon gets saturated with moh
besides which the effluvium which it givi
when fresh seems to arrest decay amongst
cuttings. Where pots are plunged out-of-f
during summer, this refuse will tend great
keep them in a uniform state as to moisture]
prevent them from becoming baked; and
winter any dormant subjects are covered
3 inches or 4 inches of this fibre in a nci
unused condition, no ordinary frosts will tal
them, especially if the fibre can be prevenl
from becoming too wet. For covering all kiai
of bulbs after they are potted till taken indod
for forcing, this refuse possesses a great advsa
tage, inasmuch as it does not harbour insecti
and is easily removed without breaking Lh
young growths, even if they are an inch or twi
in height. For all purposes the fresh materii
is gTeatly to be preferred to that which i
partially decayed, as the latter, when mixed irill
potting soil, tends to make it clammy instead a
keeping it open, while for indoor beds it has do;
the fresh, stimulating smell of the new fibre
and for resisting frost 1 inch of the latter is a
moderately dry condition will keep out as much
frost as 3 inches of the old material when ii
that decayed and saturated state in which it be
comes after long usage.

Mulching. —Where plants are growing in ex*
posed places a coating of this refuse on the but
face of the soil is of great service in maintain^
moisture about the roots during hot weather,
and in protecting them from frost in winter,
but its use is advocated simply as a protec¬
tive agent, and not from any stimulating pro¬
perties possessed by it. Judging by the wayii
which it is often used in villa gardens, n
sprinkled over the ground in homoeopathic do*
it would appear to be considered a power!
manure; but such is not the case, although
of service to mix with the soil in order to ligbti
it when too heavy. For lightening soils it m
be worked in when too much decayed to be i
tained any longer in the houses, but it should
spread out to sweeten beforehand, as it is apt
turn somewhat sour through the continual wat<s
ings necessary in hot houses. In the case of Li(
bulbs received during the winter I much prefe
laying them out and covering them with thi
fibre for a little time to potting them at once, a
some of the scales are generally injured it
transit, and the absorbent qualities of thH
material tend to arrest decay, while when taker
up for potting any bad parts can be remove
which would not have been perceived had thj
bulbs been potted at once. Of course they ail
not allowed to remain long enough for the root
to attain any length, otherwise much damsg
might accrue, as from their brittle nature the
are easily broken. The best time to pot tb
bulbs is as soon as the new roots appear aronm
the base. . A.

Digitized by

Relaying Box edgings.— This is a go <
time to relay Box edgings, and in many garden
large overgrown edgiDgs are a great eyesore, to
as they grow up and get overgrown at the top
they die away at the base and get thin e
shoots where they are most needed, viz-,
above the ground level. The best plan to pro*
ceed with renovating is to turn the gTavel bad
into the centre of the walk, then lift the dp
ings with a fork, pull the Box into small piece*
and with a chopper shorten both roots and topai
Dig over the soil, making it up to the level re*
quired for the walk, making it smooth with th#
back of a spade, then stretch a line the wholf
length of the walk, and cut down with a gentMj

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS'AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Much 8, 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

»

>pe to the walk about 3 inches deep, then lay
pieces of Box in quite an even line and press
ifctle fine soil to keep it in place by hand, pro-
idisg thus until the whole line is complete ;
j ID fill in some fine soil, and tread it in firmly ;
sc return the gravel, and the work will be
mplete. If the Box is well laid, it will shew
-teven line about 2 inches high, and if with a
L ir of sharp shears the tips of the young growth
e cat off twice during the year—about May,
id again in September—Box edgings will keep
wd for several years; and amongst living
Igings there is nothing makes a neater edging
~mn Box. I find many objeet to it on the score
at it harbours slugs, but if slugs are in the
wind, they will find something to harbour in,
id a good dusting of lime occasionally will
on reduce their numbers. One of the most
joiiaon blemishes of Box edgings is having the
nrners trod off, and gaps made in it by the
heelbarrows. The corners should be pro*
cted by a good stout stake driven in a slanting
wtition so as to overhang the edgings; and in
heeling manure on to the cultivated soil, a
call arched wooden bridge should be used, for
good edgings are valued, they are worth a
tile labour to keep them in order.—J. G.

HOTBED FRAMES.

r \3 surprising what may be done in frames in
ie way of forcing, especially where plenty of
•avea, stable manure, or tan can be got, as by
ie aid of either heat highly congenial to vege-
ition may be obtained at a trifling cost. The
'eat thing in starting is to see that the manure,

• whatever is used, is well sweetened, i.e. t freed
■ora rank steam, fiery gases, and its fermenta-
on moderated before the bed is formed. When
>ady for use, the bed must be staked out
wording to the size of the frame, allowing
bout a foot larger all round, so as to insure
lenty of base for it to stand on. The height
•ill depend on what is intended to be forced,
f for Cucumbers, or anything of that kind
■here strong heat is required, 4 feet will not be
oo much, as the bed subsides a good deal unless
mdden firmly when made up, which is not a
ood plan, as it often prevents the material from
eating in the regular manner it does when put
lore lightly together. Although many like a
olid hotbed, I prefer one made up with a founda-
ion of faggots or bushes, as then it is an easy
latter, by applying linings around, to send fresh
•annth under whenever there is any decline,
i’hich cannot be done so quickly and certainly
then the manure and leaves get closely com-
jressed by the weight of the frame and soil
onstantly bearing them down. For beds that
lave not to last any great length of time, and
ire only required for Carrots or Potatoes,
rom 2 feet to 3 feet is quite high enough if the
material they are made with is good, as all
-Arrote and Potatoes require is just heat enough
to start them well on their way. In the growing
of either

Carrots or Potatoes, light soil should be
used; for the former a good deal of sand is
beneficial, and the latter like leaf-mould. To
»ve time while the frame is being made up and
got ready Potatoes may be forwarded in small
pots or boxes, and then planted out in the bed,
where, to economise space, Radishes and Mustard
wd Cress may be sown between the rows, or
young Cauliflowers or Lettuces raised, as any or
all of these will be off before the Potatoes re¬
quire the room. The distance at which to plant
Potatoes is about a foot from row to row, and
9 inches from set to set, which is quite enough
for Ash leaf or Myatt’s, the two best sorts for
growing in frames. If

Cucumbers are to be grown, some half rotten
leaves should be scattered over the bed, and
then a ridge of soil laid along the middle to
warm. What suits Cucumbers best is fresh cut
loam, jost the thin top spit with plenty of fibre.
This should be chopped up roughly, and laid in
fhe frame lightly, as the more loose and open
It is, the more freely wiil the roots of the
lumbers be able to ramify. Unless the frame
15 very large, one plant to a light is quite
enough, as by training a branch back and front
ground may soon be covered with frnit-
^ring shoots. The bottom heat necessary to
Srow Cucumbers quickly and well is about 35°,
if kept steadily at this, with a temperature
^eof 60° by night to 75°by>day, the pror

Digitized by CjOOgl

gress of the plants will be rapid and the stems
strong. In giving air, which should not be done
till the thermometer runs up to 75°, great care
is requisite, or cold, cutting winds will rush in.
To prevent this the light should only be just
tilted behind, so as to open them about half an
inch, as with that much the glass may be allowed
to rise 10° or 15° by the aid of the sun without
any danger of burning or injuring the leaves.
Cucumbers in frames so early in the season re¬
quire but little water, either at the roots or over
the foliage, as the steam from the manure sup¬
plies moisture, but on hot days it may be neces¬
sary now and then to sprinkle the foliage, but
this should never be done unless the water is
warm, as it would otherwise cause a chill and
stunt the plant’s growth. Some think Cucumbers
only set by being impregnated, which is a most
mistaken notion, as the setting is quite unneces¬
sary unless seed is required, for the fruits swell
just as well when there are no male flowers
near, and the plants do much better without
them. This being so, they should be pinched
or rubbed out as they show, and the shoots
stopped one joint above the young fruit, which
will prevent the frame becoming too crowded
with foliage. Besides Cucumbers, Potatoes, and
Carrots, Asparagus forces well in manure frames
at this season, and if roots are taken up and
put in on a gentle heat, heads will 6oon be fit
to cut. To get these stout and well coloured
and of good flavour, air should be given on
sunny days and whenever the weather is favour¬
able.—S.

BLINDS FOR FLANT HOUSES.

As this is the time of year when people will be
seeking for information respecting blinds for
plant houses, a few words on the subject gene¬
rally may not be out of place. The chief mis¬
take lies in selecting materials so close in texture
that they half shut out the light, which to¬
gether with heat, moisture, and air, combined
with a root-run of suitable soil, is essential to
the well-being of plants of most kinds. Every¬
one who begins to garden seems to have an in¬
tuitive knowledge that all of these, except light,
must not be stinted if success is to be attained.
But amongst many even of those who might be
expected to know better the need of all the light
we can give to ninety-nine out of a hundred of the
plants in cultivation seems not to be fnlly under¬
stood. No further evidence of this is needed
than the fact of so many using fixed shading,
put on in the spring and let to remain until
autumn through the untold number of days
when we never see the face of the sun at all. and
the many hours, morning and evening, even in
bright weather, when every ray of unobstructed
light is little enough. Smearing the glass with
whiting, lime, or similar substances all tend in
the same direction, and though largely employed,
are makeshifts to effect that which with so much
more advantage to the plants can be done by the
use of movable shading. The thickness of the
material that is required to a very great extent
depends on the position the house stands in ;
the plants in a house either span-roofed or lean-
to that stands full side to the south will bear
blinds of a little closer material than if the
ends stood north and south, for the obvious
reason that in the former position the sun at
noon, when most powerful, strikes the glass
when the sash-bars or rafters offer the least ob¬
struction to it.

For most things the tbin material is best that
goes under the name of gauze canvas, or scrim,
composed of hard-twisted threads like fine wire,
not woven close. There is much difference in
the quality ; the right stuff is all flax, but there
is a deal made of half jute or more than half ;
these last will not wear near so long as the
former. A thick inferior canvas composed of
uneven, lumpy threads, too closely woven, is
often sold as scrim, but although lower in price
is much dearer in the end, independent of it6
shutting out too much light. The blinds should
by all means be on the outside of the roof. The
way to work such blinds iB now pretty well
known, but for the information of those who
may be unacquainted with it, I may mention
the best method of arranging them. One side
of the blinds must be tacked to a 3-inch wide
lath temporarily screwed on up to the ridge of
the house, with a deal roller 2£ inches in
diameter, to which the opposite side of the
blind must be in like manner tacked; this

e

roller requires to be furnished at one end with
a reel, 7 inches or 8 inches in diameter, so as to
take a cord that will work it up and down, some¬
thing like the drop scenes on the stage of a
theatre. The roller must be a little longer than
the house to admit of the reel running clear of
the roof.

In making all blinds of this description it
should be borne in mind that the threads of
which they are composed that run lengthways,
that is, the warp, are much stronger and more
durable than the crossway threads, that is, the
weft; for this reason, in cutting them out the
material should run up from eave to ridge, not
lengthways from end to end of the house. This
will make a year’s difference in the length of
time they will last. To folly carry out the in¬
tention of movable shading, it is needless to say
that the blinds should always be rolled up when
the sun is not so powerful or directly shining
on the glass as to endanger the plants.

T. B.

MANURES FOR PLANTS.

Amongst the many subjects which have come
under discussion in Gardening, there is one,
which, although frequently alluded to in a
manner fragmentary and incomplete, has never,
so far as I know, been clearly and exhaustively
dealt with. I allude to the use of liquid manures
and stimulants for greenhouse plants, and their
effects, not only upon present growth and
blossom, but also upon their health and consti¬
tution in relation to the following season. I
am given to understand that some of our largest
and most successful nurserymen are compara¬
tively indifferent as to the medium in which
their flowers are grown, the nourishment which
they depend upon for the development of many
of their best specimens being supplied entirely
by manures such as Clay’s fertilizer, or some
other similar compound ; and truly, I have seen
show Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, and other plants
grown in this manner with roots large as quills,
and so hard and healthy as to promise very
satisfactorily for the future. My own experi¬
ence, on the contrary, has taught me the danger
of even a moderate use of some descriptions of
stimulants in the culture of flowers. Two years
ago I had the misfortune to lose many of my
best show Pelargoniums after blooming; they
faded and died, as I believe, from the effects of
an occasional and by no means large dose of
Le floral, an ingredient highly recommended
by some who should be well informed on the
subject. Allow me to ask the following ques¬
tions, in the hope that some one of your many
correspondents will be able and willing to supply
definite information on this subject, for it is
one upon which a good many amateurs besides
myself are rather at sea. How far may liquid
and stimulating manures be safely and systemati¬
cally employed in the conservatory and green¬
house t What plants are chiefly benefited
thereby, and to which are they deleterious ?
Will they, when used with due regard to mode¬
ration, insure growth and blossom to the plant,
leaving it in such a healthy condition that,
after the ordinary and necessary period of rest,
it may be expected to start again into life fresh
and vigorous, as in the first year of its existence ?

W. L.

Mixture for green-fly.— In cultivating
Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Pelargoniums, and hosts
of other things subject to green-fly, constant
care has to be exercised in order to keep that
pest off if possible, sometimes not an easy mat¬
ter, especially in winter, when fire-heat has to
be so often used to battle with frost and damp.
Fumigating is a good preventive, but when once
settled under the large leaves of Cinerarias or
Calceolarias, the enemy is difficult to dislodge,
and fumigating has to be repeated week after
week until the Tobacco paper bill becomes
really more than the worth of the plants, leaving
the labour required in attending to them out of
the question. The most effective and cheapest
way I know of in regard to dealing with aphides
is dipping the plants in a solution of hot water,
with which is mixed a little soft soap and
Tobacco juice. This not only kills them alto¬
gether, but leaves the foliage distasteful to them
afterwards. With a good tub and two persons—
one to hold the plant and see that it is put care¬
fully in the water, and another to hold the pot
—it is wonderful how quick a few hundred

URBANA-CHAMPAiGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[March 8, 1$

p'ants can be dipped. Plants that cannot le
operated on in this way may be syringed with
tie mixture with equally good results.—A. M.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11114.— Soil for perennials.— Some spe¬
cies and varieties of these will grow almost
anywhere, others object to grow in stiff clay. I
planted a border about 160 yards loDg of stiff
clay with plants from light soil. We trenched
in many cart, loads of stable manure, but this
was not enough. I had to dig out a hole for
each plant and round the roots of each valuable
specimen a spadeful of light compost was
placed. This was composed of about equal
parts peat, leaf-mould, and loam. All this might
seem a deal of trouble, but it is better to do so
than to lose your plants, and then have to do it
after all.—J. D. E.

11109. — Stopping or pinching. — It
would not do to pinch Geraniums up to within
six weeks of an exhibition. Geraniums ought
not to be stopped more than once, and it ought
to be done in January or February. A large
specimen might not want pinching at all.
Fuchsias are different, they might be pinched
up to within six weeks of an exhibition. The
shoots should be pinched at every second pair
of leaves, and the flowers would also require to
be pinched off up to the same time as the
stopping of the growths.— J. D. E.

11014.— Sparrows and Peas. — I am
torry to see your correspondent, “ J. D. E.,”
advocating the wholesale destruction of the
nests, eggs, and young sparrows. The vines of
France are now sharply suffering from the
effects, I believe, of a similar imprudence.
Germany has discovered that birds are tl e
farmers’ best friends, and encourages them to
nest near the farmhouses. To destroy birds is
to disturb, to our own disadvantage, the balance
existing between birds and insects.— J. B.

11001.—Manures for top dressing.—
If “ J. L.” will apply half a pound of Beeson’s
blood and bone manure to each of his esta¬
blished Hose plants in March or April, for sum¬
mer blooms, July and August for autumn
blooms, I am sure he will be more than satisfied
with results as to size and colour of blooms and
as a preventive to mildew. During the last
fifteen years I have tried all manures in the
market, but cannot buy anything to give me as
good results as Beeson’s, especially on a cold
heavy soil. I find, from experience, that some
of the fertilisers in the market at present are
very dangerous to use, as they force the very
life out of the plants just for one season, and
leave them invalids to die the following winter
if the least severe. This manuie, when applied
as a top dressing at the time stated above and
forked in, begins to act at once, owing, no doubt,
to the amount of blood it contains, while the
bones form a lasting and substantial food, as is
shown by the manner it encourages the feeders
to come to the surface.—J. H. W.

11067.— Lime and slugs —The lime now
when it has fallen to a fine powder, is just the
thing. You should put a ring of it around the
plants, not over them, but you should renew
always after rain. I would prefer soot to lime ;
you can put a handful of it round the stem and
not damage the plant, and I think it is more
effective than lime. Try lime and soot mixed.
—J. Robertson, Corvdtnknojreg.

- The powder is all you require, and will

have just the same effect upon the slugs if you
can get them to come in contact with it whilst
it is dry. If the lime once gets wet the slug-
can crawl over it with perfect comfort. I would
recommend “ Sicnarf ” to spread the lime over
the soil and dig it in; by so doing he will be
sure to catch- some, and the land will be the
better for the lime. Later on, when slugs can
find plenty of food, lay traps, "catch and kill ”
is the best remedy.— Rustic.

11106 .— Heating greenhouse.— The sad¬
dle boiler is quite large enough for yoar house.
Two 3-inch pipes would be quite sufficient to
heat a bed 3 feet wide, but even if your house
is a low roofed one it will require three 4-inch
pipes to heat it sufficiently. If the house is a
lofty one, four pipes would be wanted. A lean-
to house does not require so much piping as a
apan-roof or half-span.—J. D. £.

Digitized bvXjOO^IC

11078.—Ants in greenhouse.—Try and
find out their haunts, and (if it can be done
without doing damage to the plants) pour boil¬
ing water over them. If that cannot be done
put some syrup or treacle into shallow saucers
and place across their run. If they can be en¬
couraged to go in and taste of the sweets, they
won’t come out again. —J. Robertson, Condon-
knorces .

i- I should advise " A. G.” to smear some

pieces of oidinary window glass with a mixture
of honey and arsenic. The ants will be attracted
to the honey, and will eat it greedily, arsenic
and all. The house will soon be free from
them.—J. W.

11048 —Hyacinths in water —The offensive smell
from the water In the glass I should fay ts caused by acme
decay in the bulb. Very likely the bulb was slightly
decayed before It was put in the glas*. The water would
help on decomposition. Try a few lumps of charcoal in
the water.-J. W.

11107.— Lichens on houeee. — These plants are
very difficult to transplant from the roof of one house on
to the tiles of another. The only chance for you is to ob¬
tain some tiles with the Lichens on them, and Introduce
them amongst the tiles of your own house.—J. D. E.

11123.— Worms in lawn.—As the grass is nearly all
gone, you could first destroy the worms by giving the
lawn a good watering with June water. This done, sow
the ground with lawn Grasa seeds, and sift over it some
fine soil.—J. D. E.

Cucumber : Is it a vegetable ? — Enquirer.—
B )tanlcally the Cucumber Is a fruit, so is the Tomato,
the Vegetable Marrow, and even the garden Pea, but all
are used as culinary vegetables, and would be disqualified
if shown in collections of fruit, except, perhaps, the
Tomato, which is sometimes eaieu as dessert.

R. Park— Hardy Proonhs can be got at any good
hardy plant nursery. Look through our advertisement
columns.

Sam Slack .—Try Messrs. Howcroft and Watkins,
Tavistock Street, Covent Garden.

C. P. C .—Consult our advertisement columns.

Names of plants. — Kesfon.— Daphne Mezereum.

-.T. X.— It Is really impossible to name such a scrap

as that sent.

QUERIES

Rules for Correspondents.—AM communica
Hons for insertion should oe clearly and concisely written
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the EDITOR.
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name
and address qf the sender u» required , in addition to any
Dora de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answered, when more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the
day of publication , it is not possible to insert queries and
communications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again.

Naming plants. —Four plants, fniits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when good
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name
varieties of florists’ /lowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums ,
Azaleas , as these can only be correctly named by a
specialist who has the means of comparison at hand. Any
communication respecting plants or flowers tent to nam*
should always accompany the parcel.

11169.— Portable greenhouses and surveyors.
—1 have recently erected a span-roof greenhouse, 9 feet
by 5 feet. It cost £5 5s., all wood and glass. It is some
tl feet from the back of my house, and stands npon oi.e
row of bricks to keep it from the damp ground. The dis¬
trict surveyor has just favoured me with a call, and re¬
quests the wooden panels of the lower portion shall be
replaced with brickwork in case of fire, although the
house is heated with a lamp stove and not a flue. Will
some kind friend inform me If the surveyor is justified
in this Btep? If so, why are greenhouses sold all wood if
they cannot be erected ? If the brickwork is tubstl-
tuted, it will become the property of the landlord, and
not a tenant's fixture, the very desideratum aimed at in
these portable wooden houses. I have reason to believe
the surveyor watched, with that kindly Interest so well
known, the erection of the house, and has waited its
completion before pouncing down upon me. Perhaps a
small fee might put a different complexion on the affair
altogether, as surveyors have been known to take little
gifts now and then.— Happy 1 bought.

11160.— StocklDg a Wardian case.— Having
nearly finished the construction of a handsome zinc
plant-case with heating apparatus complete, dimensions
being 3 feet by 2 feet, rising with glass dome to 3 feet,
exclusive of two good sized bay windows and front porch,
which I intend for small specimens, the soil pan being
6 inches deep, 1 shall feel greatly indebted to anyone
furnishing me with a good list of Ferns, Mosses, and
foliaged plants, evergreen and deciduous, likely to
succeed in this case placed in parlour window, wpect
south-west, but well shaded, aa I have made a feature of
the case and should wish its inmates good. Informa¬
tion as to the procuring of suitable soil and hints for
planting and cultivation will greatly oblige.—W. T.

11161.— Window plants.-1 feel obliged to “ K. L.
D.” for his article in a recent number of Gardening on
Lobelias, and for the clear and simple directions for
growing them in a window. I shall be still further
pleased to be Informed whether It is possible to grow
the following In the same way :—Auricula, Begonia. Cal¬
ceolaria, Cineraria, Cyclamen, Gloxinia, and Primula, or
would any of them germinate in an ordinary hotbed f I

have raised Cyclamens, but cannot get them to
and I once got one Primula in flower, but there *u
one blossom as big as the plant itself, which thes
—A Disappointed Amateur.

11162.— Euphorbias and Polnsettiaa-Wi
any reader kindly instruct me on the propag&tioc
cultivation of Euphorbia Jacquiniirflora sad
PoinsettiasT I have a plant of the Euphorbia in a SI
pot. It has four branches 3 feet long; it ha
finished blooming, and I am very anxious to inaeta
stock. What treatment should the old plant tun
make It b'oom the next season? Will it requiri],
potting? A few hints as to soil and proper jtreaia
throughout would be thankfully received. I may si
lion I have a small stove and greenhouse.—A Cosst
Subscriber.

11163.—Woimfi In lawns.—II "B. Y." wrudi
get rid of the worms, I would advise him to go V
chemist and getone ounce of perchloi ide of mercury!* 1
rosive sublimate) and dissolve it in six gallons of vis
He will have a remedy. Take a watering-pot and ■] 1
the Uwn all over with this liquid ; it will not only
the worms on the surface, but bring up any tbst nxy
under the surface, killing them as well. It will net j
the grass. Perchloride of mercury being a
" B. V." must be careful where he puts any he mayl
left.—R. R.

11164.—Heating greenhouse.—I am very piss
for “ J. D. E's." answer to my enquiry respecting {At
to grow in my imall greenhouse, 12 feet long by 51
wide, and shall be glad if he or any other reader vs
tell me the best means of heating. I am tblnhg ;
patting two pipes 3 inches diameter, 9 feet lonr, (■
flow and return, along the front; wUl this be enoegk,
should 1 put 2-inch pipes all round my pathway, 1
dug out, as near ground as possible. Any inforaii
will greatly oblige.—ST. Hildas.

11165.—Raising 1 Broccoli and Cucumber*-
Will anyone tell me how to raise Broccoli from m 4
bearing in mind that 1 am only an amateur and hint
further heat or glass at command tbsn is furaishtd W
hot-bed frame, which is made up fresh as soon a*
weather permit* in the spring. 1 rhould also be gisdf
any Information as to ridge Cucumbers. I have a Mj
south wall, and generally succeed with Vegetable If
rows, but nave never been able to get the Cucumberi)
luit.—A Disappointed Amatkuh.

11166.— Culture of Parsley.— I have a large «uds,
In Devon, the soil of which is rich red sandstone, tc
although I see plenty of Parsley at the greengrocaC
cannot at thiB time of the year, though there hai m
no frost, get enough to garnish a spring chicken ,
purchase my seeds from the best places, but for at ten
two years I have had to buy Parsley. Perhaps m»i
reader would tell me how it ought to be cultivated.-!!
Subscriber.

1L167.— Chrycanthemums after flowering
I have three old plants of Chrysanthemum
flowered in a large box on the south side of the boH|
L cut them back, and they are now shooting up*®
Can I leave them undisturbed, or will the soutM*
aspect be too hot for them T The box is cloie to®
wall, and gets the sun nearly all day. Should I Hi
out the young shoots ? What can I plant in the ta»
box to look bright through the summer?—L. D. «

11168.— Shrubs under trees.— What shrutsvl
grow well under tall trees, In a border extending aMf
the wall 3 feet high, surrounded by Iron railings vU*
fences off the grounds of a villa from the public rA*
Also, would the Spruce hedge, recommended in lw^e*
December 16, grow close to said wall, so as In tirna*
form a screen within the railings? Hedge of LignumnH
attempted has been a failure. —B A. N.

11169. — Greenhouse Roses.— Would soman*
kindly say how I should tTeat my greenhouse Reset
They are just starting into new growth I planted tks
last autumn, but did not prune them as they are
plants as yet. They are Cheshunt hybrid, Rt-ve d’iv
Glolre de Dijon, Niphetos, Perle du Jar din, and General
Jacqueminot. May I also ask should I cut down m}
Heliotropes or let them grow on and repot ?—J. H. D.

11170 — Mushrooms not growiDg — 1 1

Mushroom bed in October, and spawned it when tbebei
was between 60° and 70°, but the M uahrooms have not
appeared. I have had a little heat in the house for stou
two months, and on examining the Ted I find it is full c
spawn. Will the Mushrooms come ? If not, I want w
house for other things.—C. 8.

11171.—Raising plants In eand -I genii'
raise a number of my plants from seed. I sow the sew
on heated sand in a greenhouse, and am generally W!
successful in raising them, perhaps, 2 inches or S iKhe
high, but when breaking for the third leaf I very oftei
lose a number of them. Could you tell me the
and remedy.—J. A.

11172.—Mesembryanthemums In London.-

Will " K. L. D." say whether Mesembryanthemums vu
grow in London, which would be the best sort to
and whether they would be likely to do in anouUM'
window-box, southern aspect, either planted out «
plunged in pots; nlso wheie can they be procuied.-

11173— Roses and Camellias on back walls *-)
am erecting a greenhouse 15 feet by 9 feet, and
like to know' if it would be practicable to make s
in the back part of the house in which to plant MarrcM
Kiel Roses and Camellias, and not have a back star
and will Camellias grow better planted in the botf«
than in pots ?—M. P.

11174.—Gentlanellas not flowering.-I
some good roots of blue Gentianella in a border o
ordinary kitchen garden soil last March. They
never bloomed, and I think either soil or situation
be unsuited to them. They are under the wa,IC Vvi
greenhouse facing south-west I should be mUCX
obliged for any suggestions as to treatment.—M. 3

11176 — Azaleas not blooming.— I have
large Azaleas covered with buds, but which show w
signs of opening, although they are kept in a tooap®**
ture of 50° to 60°. I may add the plants have
little manure water, und are very healthy, and W n "
made a little fresh growth.-C. P. C.

ERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
RBANA-CHAMPAIGN

arch 8, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

l

e -Fern not growing.—I had a large Malden-
ern which wu just growing, or rather the fronds
I get about an inch long and then die. I have cut
I to several small ones, but they do not grow. I may
^n I keep them in a greenhouse say at 50°.—W. G.

rr -Blind for vinery.— I want to put up a blind
f early vinery (30 feet long) to protect it from frosts.
Would someone kindly say how it should be put
Aboali it be upon a roller, and should it draw up
the l>ottom or down from the top. and what mate-
i most suitable ? The vinery is a lean-to.—LEX.

7 i - Indiarubt>er plant unhealthy In

I have an Indiaroboer plant in a greenhouse
never has artificial heat bat when needed to keep
rost Both last winter and this winter the plant got
an unhealthy state. Will any reader tell me the
able cause I-Young Beginner.

IT? -Crimson Rocket.— Years ago there used to
in mtny farmhouse gardens in Cheshire double
teU of a crimson colour, something like the crimson
IjUift I know the purple, but cannot now find the
or l want. Can anyone tell me If such a plant existB
, and where I can get it?—D erby Dilly.

1 K> -Jasmlnum gradllimum —Will any sue-
fill grower of this plant kindly tell me its proper
troent? lhave had a plant for twelve months, but
u not yet flowered, it is in a 5*inchpot. I have not
urbed it since It came from the nursery. It is strong
healthy, and growing well in an intermediate house.

181 .- Making Seakale bed. —I should be
red for Information as to the method of making and
Staining a Seakale bed. as I believe this is the proper
3 of the year for it. To what height do the plants
* in summer, and must they always be kept covered
h flower pots ?—A. K.

1182.— Celery piping. —Will someone kindly tell
st is the cause ofCelery piping? I sow in a frame at
end of February and transplant twice. Would too
isoil be the cause of the above? I live In north
des.-OLITOR.

list—Roeee on ttie Manettl stock. — How
nurserymen bud Roses on the Manettl Stock In the
tag and autumn ? I saw a lot In a nursery this spring,
l should like to know how they do them. Any infor-
ticn on the subject will oblige.—V auxhall.

1184 — Gladioli from seed.—Will some grower of
vital! please say the shortest time in which they can

th** bulbs to flower from the time of sowing the feed,
o what is the difference in this respect between
idiolus brenchleyenais and G. gandavensis?—J. L.

1185 —Treatment of Christmas Roses.—1
)uM be obliged if someone would tell me the proper
-atment for Chriatmaa Roses. I want partlculaily to
ow what soil and what aspect suits them best, and at
ut time of year they m»y be moved.— L. E. G.

insfl. — Temperature for Cucumbers. — Will
cumber* be injured at this time of the year If the
nperature occasionally falls to 50° in the early
irniog T The plants have been planted out about two
iskfl, and have a bottom-heat of about 70°. C. 8.
mgrr.— wooden boxes for Camellias.—Will
meone kindly tell me where I can procure ready-made
,xe» In which to plant large Camellia trees to stand in a
iMorvatoryT-X. Y. Z.

11188.—Plants for conservatory.-I shall be
.eased to know the names of the best kinds of plants to
•ow in a conservatory facing east. My plants were
r rib turns lait year, but I lost them all.—S. Dixie.
niSP.-StTiWmr Hose cuttings in water.-Will
irocone kindly gi e directions for striking Bose cot-
win bottles of water, saying what kinds succeed best,
ad when they may be planted out?— Sunflower.

11190.- Herbaceous plants. — Would someone
aggest Borne herbaceous flowers that would give ® bril-
lant display from April to October, for one of limited
wans? Soil rather heavy.— Troity.
lli9L-Plants becoming drawn. -I have a small
.•reenhouse, 3 feet high, In which the plants become
hawn very much; 1 should be glad to hear of a proven-
fo.-A.S

11192.—Pruning Peach trees. — will someone
ttil me how I ought to prune and train my maiden
leaches, which are intended to be in pots, as bush and
pyundai trees in an orchard house ?—Lex.

1UM. -Varieties of Hepattcas.-Can any reader
Worm me how many Hepatlcas there are in cultivation,
Kd o! these which are distinct species, and which are
merely varieties of tome of the species?—R eaper.

ll 194.-Late Chrysanthemums.-I shall be glad
H any correspondent will kindly furnish me with the
Eunea of some really good sorts of late-flowering Chry-
unthemoma for greenhouse culture.—L. UNION.

11195. - Erigeron aurantiacum —Having ob¬
tained a packet of seed of this plant, will some reader
squinted with its growth kindly Inform me the exact
process to adopt in order to rear it with success ?—F. S.

lira -Climbers for walls and arches.— What
f Umbers (not Roses) would lie best for two arches, also
tv a north and west red brick wall ? Any informa¬
tion would oblige. — Trotty.

I1197.-Woodlice.— I shall feel obliged If anvone
cm tell me how to get rid of woodlice. We have
thcoiandi of them in a forcing pit, and they eat up all
fce young and tender plants.—G. M.

11198.— Rose cuttings.—What ought to be done
vkh a number of Rose cuttings struck in sand last
Rtamn, and now evidently growing, but I do not know
l! Iter* are yet any roots ?—*• M. D.

11190-Klttatinny Blackberry.—Will anybody
fcadly inform me where the Ktttatinny Blackberry is
to purchased ?—W. S. K.

iiao-Sowing Cabbage and Cauliflower seed-
-l would thank some reader to tell me the right time to
rtCibbage and Cauliflower seed.—K. H., Dorset.

m.-Pnming Marechal Nlel Rosea-Dlrec-
tea wanted for pruning this Rose, both outdoors and
cdcora-K. M. D.

11202. —Dahlia cuttings.—Should Dahlia cuttings
be taken off with a piece of the tuber or not ?—X. Y. Z.
11203 .—Veronicas.—When ought cuttings of these
be struck, and how?-E. M. D.

BEES.

nailing a stout board o£ the same size as the
floor-board of the hive to be placed upon it. For
few yards in a direct line with front of each
hive the ground should be kept clear of tall-
growing plants. All weeds can be kept down
by spreading a little tan round each hive.
Boxjvorth, S. S. G.

SEASONABLE NOTES.

The month of March is a good time to com¬
mence bee-keeping by purchasing strong stocks
that have safely passed through the trials of
winter. Doubtless there is every inducement
to those living in the country to engage in this
interesting as well as profitable pursuit. There
is room for many more colonies of bees than
are at present kept; much of the honey con¬
tained in the flowers of the field is yearly left
ungathered from lack of sufficient numbers of
bees to make the most of the honey season while
it lasts, it being, as a rule (owing chiefly to our
uncertain climate), of short duration, although
very abundant in some localities, such as in the
neighbourhood of fields ot white Clover. Strong
colonies will in such localities increase their
weight of stores at a great rate. It is computed
that twenty acres of white Clover will yield
upwards of 100 pounds of honey per day.

Purchasing stocks —Strong second swarms
of last year should be selected, as these will
contain young queens. Before purchasing a
colony, the state of affairs inside the hive
should be thoroughly investigated. If in a straw
skep, first puff a little smoke into the entrance
to quiet the bees and drive them up amongst
the combs, then turn the hive bottom upwards.
The combs should be yellow (if of a dark colour
at all approaching to black, the colony is old),
and built straight, as straight combs will much
facilitate the operation of transferring to a bar-
frame hive, should it be desired'to do so later on.
The hive should contain not less than ten pounds
of honey, as well as a large number of bees. If
brood is observed, the presence of a fertile queen
is indicated. A stock (in a healthy and pros¬
perous condition will, in fine weather, be seen
carrying into the hive large quantities of pollen
or bee-bread, which, together with honey and
water, is used to feed the grubs. A stock may
be judged strong if about thirty bees per minute
enter the hive so laden. The hive should be re¬
moved in the evening or early morning before
the bees are abroad. A straw skep should have
a piece of cheese cloth tied over to prevent the
escape of [the bees, and be carried bottom up¬
wards, which insures greater safety to the combs
and bees. If a piece of stick be passed through
the sides of the hive so as to pierce each comb,
it will add to their security, as the bees fasten
the combs to the stick if the stick be inserted a
day or two before the removal of the hive. If a
stock is to be removed to a less distance than
two miles, it is important to do so quite early in
the season, before they fly much, otherwise
many of the bees will return to their old locality
and be lost.

Position of apiary.— A strong stock will
thrive in almost any position, provided the hive
is kept dry. If, however, there is one aspect more
suitable than another, it is probably a south¬
east aspect, as the bees then get the morning
sun, which induces them to begin work early.
Some have tried a northern aspect with success,
the bees so placed being found to consume
much less food during winter. Each hive should
have a separate stand, and be placed quite 4 feet
apart. Most operations are more easily per¬
formed at the back of the hive; so that if the
hives stand under the shelter of a wall or fence,
room should be left for a pathway between it
and the row of hives. The use of a low stand is
to be recommended, as in windy weather many
bees laden with stores are blown to the ground
while attempting to enter a hive placed on
high stand, but where placed low enough to
allow the alighting bound to slope to the ground,
the storm-battered bees are enabled to regain
the hive by crawling in. A very good stand
may be made of two pieces of 1-inch board
about 1 foot wide and 2 feet loDg. From the
centre of each board is removed a piece equal
to its thickness and half its width; they are then
fitted across one another, and form a very firm
stand of suitable height and of easy removal.
For a straw hive, a very good stand may be
made by fixing in the ground firmly a small post
about 8 inches in diameter, leaving about
10 inches out of the ground, and upon this

Improved hives.— I quite agree with
S. 8. G.” that the hive he wrote about
does present a “ pleasing and rustic appear¬
ance in the shrubs of a garden.” I have had
practical experience of this hive. The first time
I met with it a country gentleman bad bought
one, and he was pleased with the opportunity
the three “ toy ” windows gave him of watchiDg
thebees run about inside, but was disappointed
to find that, save the index of heat afforded
by the thermometer, he remained about as wise
as if the bees had been at Bagdad. In three
years he has had about three pounds of honey
from the toy glasses, and I believe one swarm
has issued from the hive. My next contact
with this hive was in a garden in which it stood
in the open air. The floor board had become
warped, and let a current of cold air into the
hive, where the bees did not welcome it; the hoop
binding the bottom so neatly when new had also
become warped and twisted, and was “parting
company ” with the straw ; the proprietor had
never had any honey, and I firmly believe never
expects to take any from glasses, supers, sec¬
tions, or anything else connected with this hive.
Still it remains a pleasing object to the eye, &c.
Abbotts’ combination (wood) hive is more of a
business character, provided it be made 24
inches long inside; it can be contracted in the
autumn to six, five, or even four frames, and ex¬
panded in summer to sixteen frames, and have a
crate of sections placed on the top of the first
ten, that is if there are bees enough to do so
much work. In this case I should place ten
frames for a brood chamber, then the zinc ex¬
cluder, and leave the six rear frames for storing,
which, with the sections above the brood nest,
from which the queen should be excluded by a
sheet of perforated zinc, would in a favourable
season secure an abundant harvest. The ex¬
pansion must be made gradually as the bees
multiply, or the increased space will become cold
and the colony a wreck. The body of the hive
may be made up to ten frames during a favour¬
able month of April, and the sections may be
placed above them on the first of May if there
be abundance of blossom by that date and a
vigorous tenancy of the hive. The frames in rear
are to be added at discretion, that is to say,
when the section crate is nearly finished, one
at a time. The troubles of “ D. H. S.” arose
from the bad distances of his frame?. Tho
correct thing is for each frame to occupy an inch
and nine-twentieths, but an inch and a half will
not be too much; they must hang a quarter of
an inch, or three-eighths at most, from the sides
of the hive, then no proposing will ensue if
due expansion be given at the right time; but it
is impossible to prevent propolising in the band-
boxes improperly called beehives, which are
constructed for nine or ten frames. These
brief remarks result from eight years’ labour,
study, hope, and some disappointments, and I
trust they may be of use to others.—A Hert¬
fordshire Beekeeper.

POULTRY.

digitized by

y Google

Gapes In chickens.— In answer to
“ H. R,” if he will mix a little salad oil, a little
moist sugar, and a piece of camphor the size of a
pea (finely pounded), take the mixture up on a
small feather, and push it into the little patient’s
throat, turning it gently round, I think in two
or three days he will find the evil quite gone.
Of course the dose must be repeated several
times, and the chicks should have very clean bard
water to drink. I very rarely have an invalid
from this cause from my own hens’ eggs ; now
and then it occurs from bought eggs, but I have
cured very bad cases rapidly with this remedy.
—Plus Ultra.

-A strong preparation of salt and water

is, I believe, a certain cure. At any rate, I
found it so, and lately cured even a cat of tape
worm with it. After the bird is dosed, keep it
from others, and put a lump of camphor in its
drinking water. Whether the latter is neces¬
sary or not I cannot say, but in my case I did

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Digitized by

Gck igle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

ROSES.

A MODERN ROSE GARDEN.

So much has been written lately in the pages
of Gardening Illustrated on the subject of
Roses and Rose culture, and by such ex¬
perienced persons, that I feel some diffidence in
approaching the subject. At the same time, a
long exhaustive list of the different sorts, and of
the manner of growing, pruning, and tending
Roses, is not quite all that is required; something
more is necessary in the way of

Arrangement and Situation
before we really enjoy this queen of flowers. It
is not enough to send to Paul, or any of the great
Rose growers, and obtain from them a quantity
of well-grown, well-selected varieties. It is
when we get them to our homes and proceed to
plant them that the critical time arrives. How
often have we not seen Roses stuck in among
shrubs here aud there all over the garden, or as
standards, planted in little solitary round beds
down each side of a walk, quite regardless of
aspect or shelter, as often put in the centre of
beds of herbaceous and other plants, where the
great amount of nourishment in the shape of
manure and good soil, so necessary for Roses, is,
if supplied, sapped away from them. Roses are
flowers to really love, and the way to enjoy their
delicate beauty and sweetness to the full is to
have them massed by themselves, away from
the gaudy beauty of other flowers, and where
their endless shades of colour harmonise and
contrast only with each other.

I had the good fortune last summer to see a
Rose garden that falfllled my ideas of what
such a spot should be. Entirely separated from
the gardens and pleasure grounds, and com¬
pletely sheltered from the north, this paradise
of Roses is reached by a winding path through
the Rhododendrons, that grow so luxuriantly in
this Yorkshire valley. The garden is an acre
in extent, and was stolen from the park, which
slopes away gently from it. It is backed to the
north by tall Rhododendrons and by a rustic
summer-house set among the shrubs. Taking
the summer-house as the centre, the garden
forms a half circle in front of it. Beyond the
round of the circle the park falls gently away
down to the river, and beyond the river rise the
low ridgeB of Yorkshire hills, fading away into
blue in the distance.

The garden has a full south aspect, and there¬
fore catches every gleam of sunshine. The soil
is naturally rich (as witness the wonderful
growth of the shrubs). Lying at a certain
height above the river, it is perfectly drained.
Taking the summer-house as a centre point, beds
of Roses diverge from it like the spokes of a
wheel. They are all divided by closely mown
turf. A broad semi-circular border runs the
whole way round and divides the garden from
the park. At the back of this border are set at
intervals rustic pillars, up which the climbing
Roses grow luxuriantly. At each side of the
summer-house, and stretching along the upper
side of the garden, is a path, arched over at
intervals by rustic arches also covered and
festooned by climbing Roses.

Roses for the North.

The many northern readers of Gardening
may be interested in the following list of Roses,
as it shows the 9orts that can be successfully
grown and flowered in Yorkshire. Among the
climbing Roses, Gloire de Dijon comes deser¬
vedly first; the Cheshunt Hybrid (and no more
beautiful purple-red climbiDg Rose than this can
be found), also Madame Berard, a tea-scented
salmon Rose; Jules M&rgottin, with profusion
of rosy pink blossoms ; Magna Cbarta, very free
flowerer; Anna Alexis, ditto; PaulNeron,very
effective, with large dark blooms; Madame
Sophie Fropot, very light j ink, a lovely delicate
Rose and profuse bearer; Madame Victor Ver-
dier, a most effective cherry-coloured Rose;
Madame Rady, large red flowers; MarAchal
Vaillant, purple ditto; Senateur .Vaisse, a red,
?ery double Rose. These form a most distinc¬
tive assortment of pillar Roses, and combine a pro¬
fuse and good habit of growth with really

Digitized by Google

MARCH 15, 1884. ml

good flowers. Many of the other Roses are good
but the flowers are inferior. These Hybrid Per¬
petual Roses carry away the palm from the
lovely summer Roses, for the summer Roses are so
soon over; and in the north the Hybrid Perpetuals
are almost equally lovely in late autumn. The
beds of Roses are many and varied. La Franca
makes a lovely bed by itself, and is always in
flower, but requires a slight protection in winter.
Rosa rugosa and R. rugosa alba form one splen¬
did bush. They are large crimson and white
Roses with yellow centres, the first to come into
leaf in the spring, and the last to cease flower¬
ing late in the autumn; the flowers also are
perfectly lovely. These form a delightful con¬
trast to a neighboaring bed of yellow and orange
Austrian Brier Roses, also single; whilst across
the garden the eye rests on a gorgeous bush of
double yellow Roses, Persian yellow and
Harrisoni. One or two beds of Moss Roses,
pink and white, perpetual and summer, mixed,
are both very pretty and distinctive.

The lovely delicate Tea Roses occupy the
front place in the beds in the centre of the
garden. They require great care in the north,
and must be kept low ; and during the winter,
not only the roots well covered with mannro,
but bits of Fir branches and fronds of Braoken
stuck loosely among them. Then, if they are
killed down to the line of protection, as is
generally the case, they will spring again quite
strong from their roots. There are no Roses
half so delicate, so lovely, so perpetual in flower
ing. The following is a list of ten different
varieties:—Adam, Devoniensis, Madame Celine
Berthod, Duchess of Edinburgh, Homdre, Comte
de Paris, Marie Van Houtte, Niphetos, Souvenir
d an Ami, &c. Two other lovely beds are com¬
posed of China and Chinese Roses, allowed as
they are to heap themselves together. Their
various shades harmonise well. Several beds
are devoted to single specimen plants of the
Hybrid Perpetuals, which are generally quite
hardy in this situation. Amongst these, A. K.
Williams, one of the newer Roses and of a
carmine red colour, is very successful, and
Queen of Queens is wonderfully good. Other
and older sorts, in these larger beds of mixed
Hybrid Perpetuals, are Alfred Colomb, Baron
Hausmann, Beauty of Waltham, Black Prince,
Captain Christie, Countess of Rosebery, Duchess
of Bedford, John Hopper, Jules M&rgottin,
Louis Van Houtte, Madame la Baronne de
Rothschild, Princess’Mary of Cambridge, Reine
du Midi, Ulrich Bremner fils, and White
Baroness.

In the border surrounding the garden, and
hedging it in, are lovely wild-growing bushes of
the beautiful red Roses, the Damask Roses
taking a foremost place, not only from their
blossoms, but their bright green foliage; also
the striped red and white York and Lancaster
Rose, and some of the old-fashioned garden
Roses and their hybrids, which are so brilliant
and so deliciously fragrant.

Scotch Banksian and Noisette Roses.

The small Scotch Roses are not forgotten, and
have a place in this collection, and many of the
Ayrshire and Evergreen Roses run up some of
the many pillars and form floral chains from
one to another. Banksian Roses, alas, cannot be
grown so far north except against a south wall,
and even then require slight protection. I found
with delight an old favourite of my childhood,
the Perpetual Scotch Rose, so doable, so pink,
and so very sweet. The Bourbon Roses have
also their place, and are found to be hardy.
Of these, those that met my eye were Souvenir de
laMalmaison, Victor Emmanuel, Sir John Paxton,
Mademoiselle Marshal, and Empress Eag6nie.
The Noisette Roses, which in this climate
require protection in winter, are given the
shelter of the summer-house, and clamlier up
its sunny front porch and sides. Aimee Vibert
and Celine Forestier are perhaps the hardiest,
the tender ones being Cloth of Gold, RGve d’Or,
Solfaterre, and Triomphe de Rennes. As re¬
gards Roses standing the severity of Yorkshire
winters (as they used to be, those of 1882-3 and
1883-1 being very mild), it is found that, as a rule,
those that have smooth wood are less liable to

No. 262.

be killed by the frost than the very thorny
kinds. Almost all Tea Roses in this garden are
either grown on their own roots or budded as
near the ground as is possible on Brier or
Manetti stocks, and these, if well mnlched
with manure, are seldom or never entirely
destroyed. Standard Roses are swiftly becoming
things of the past. It is nob only an unnatural
condition of the plant (the natural one being
that of a bush, and in their year of growth a
crusade is very properly preached against all
shams and unnatural things), but it has been
found that where bushes survive the winters, stan¬
dards are killed by the score. They are little grown,
therefore, in this garden. Pruning is here most
carefully attended to, and it is more honoured
in the breach than in the observance. The
experience of some years has taught that many
Roses have all their bloom pruned away. It is
found a good plan to leave some bushes un¬
pruned, or with, at most, some of the tall,
strong shoots cat out. Unpruned Hoses will
always flower a week or two before the others,
and the wealth of blossom they will give i*
something surprising. As a rule, the more
vigorous the Rose, the less pruning it will
require, and vice versa.

Of course, a Rose garden of this importance is
only possible under certain conditions, nor is the
soil and climate everywhere propitious for so
large aud varied a collection of Roses. But
there is no doubt that there is more pleasure in
even the smallest Rose garde i, kept as much
apart as possible from other flowers, and the
Roses massed together, than in coantless Roses,
both standards and bashes, stuck at random
about a garden, or crammed in amongst shrubs
and trees where the sun’s rays hardly reach
them, and where they suffer from drought and
over shading, and the inevitable want of such
nutrition as Roses mast have if they are to be a
real success, and (paraphrazing the quotation)
things of beauty that are joys for ever.—G.

Bose election of 1883.— I am greatly
obliged to Mr. Walters for again answering my
query. The second list given is much more in¬
teresting to me, as a great many of the Roses in
the first list are strangers to me, and I am of the
opinion, if another list had been added, giving
the best of the new and old together (as in pre¬
vious years), it would have been more interesting
to many other small Rose growers like myself.
I see in this week's Gardening (February 23)
“ K. W.” criticises the second list, and seems
anything but satisfied with it. For my own
part, I am qnite satisfied, as I have'no doubt it
was the decision of judges quite able to decide
it; but at the same time I am greatly surprised
at their positions, and I should much rather have
seen those mentioned by M K. W.” higher up the
list, as I think they deserve to be. I think all
lovers of the Rose ought to feel greatly obliged
to those gentlemen who conduct these elections,
as it would be a great difficulty for an ordinary
Rose grower to mention the best half-dozen
Roses without such list, and most amateurs like
to know the class they grow when they only have
a few. As I look at the lists, I find I have
twenty-five of my forty-five varieties mentioned.
I should also like to know where the “ Rosarian’s
Year-Book ” is published, as my newsagent
either does not or will not know.— Sam.

Rose Oeline Forestier —This is na¬
turally a strong grower, and, when pruned like
the Hybrid-Perpetuals, often runs away to wood
without producing buds. The remedy is long
pruning, i.e. % leaving some four or five eyes and
strong shoots, instead of two or three. I think
this Rose flowers best in rather poor, worn soil,
doing well against a wall where it can extend in
the way Gloire de Dijon is generally treated.—
J.C.B.

11136.— Rose leaves dropping off—

Probably this is caused by mildew. Greenfly
also causes the leaves to curl, bnt that would
be easily perceived, l’ou will observe the mildew
in the form of a whitish substance on the under
sides of the leaves. If the roots are outside,
they would not want any water at this season.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

14

GARDEJVlJVG ILLUSTRATED

[March 15 1884.

Destroy greenfly by fumigating, and mildew by
thoroughly dusting the leaves with flowers of
sulphur.—-J. D. E.

11156.— House for Roses.— A lean-to is
the worst form of house, and a span-roofed one
the best. What is termed a half-span answers
well. It is not absolutely necessary that the
house should be heated; but it is desirable.
The Roses would grow freely during a mild
winter like the one we have just passed through,
but if severe weather sets in the Roses would
be sadly crippled. Roses are most valuable
when they can be obtained early, say, in March
or even in April, but this cannot be done with¬
out artificial heat.—J. D. E.

HOUSE AND WINDOW GABDENING.

LILY CULTURE IN WINDOWS.

In numerous driving excursions, often in un¬
frequented country places, it has several times
occurred to me to meet with uncommon plants
growing in the windows of village inns. The
majority of these have been quaint looking suc¬
culents—thick-leaved Groundsels,Sempervivums,
and the like—instances, doubtless, of the survival
of the fittest; but the coffee-room of an old-
fashioned inn of a country town on the borders
of Dartmoor, was not a very likely position in
which to find a window filled with well-grown
Japan Liliec of the speciosum type, and it sug¬
gested at the time a new lesson on the capa¬
bilities of the window garden. Moreover, these
Lilies were not poor, spindled specimens of their
kind, with a meagre blossom or two, but fine
sturdy plants branching out into numerous well-
formed and finely-coloured flowers, filling the
space allotted to them with a tangle of bloom.
As a matter of fact, however, certain kinds of
Lilies make the best of plants for room or win¬
dow decoration, and the instance recorded goes
to prove that they may be grown satisfactorily
under circumstances not altogether encouraging
either as to leisure time or space; and now
that bulbs can be procured so cheaply, the
craving which is almost universal to grow these
beautiful plants may easily be indulged. Japan
Lilies do not usually bloom until August or
September, but preparation must be made from
the present time and onwards if the reward of
flowers is then to be reached, and therefore the
subject is not unseasonable. There are two
distinct species especially adapted for pot culture
to be used when in flower for the decoration of
the sitting-room or the hall, viz., the well-known
L. speciosum and L. longiflorum.

The Showy Japan Lily (L. speciosum)
belongs to the open-flowered group, with
recurved petals, the flowers of which vary in tint

The Golden-rayed Lily (Lilium aumtura).

from those flushed with deep rosy-red to the
purest white. For a long time after their in¬
troduction, these used to be called lance-leaved
Lilies (L. lancifolium), but erroneously, since
that name had been given long since to another
species altogether, and they are not always
recognised in the catalogues under the newer one
of L. speciosum. Though commonly known as
Japan Lilies, this particular species is, in fact,
indigenous to Chixm, But bein«r largely cultivated
Digitized by\^,(j 'VIC

by the Japanese, the bulbs which we import
reach us through their agency, in company with
those of the golden-rayed L.auratum (or did so,
until they became a speciality amongst the
Dutch bulb growers), and so have acquired this
familiar name. L. auratum is equally well
adapted in all respects but one for pot culture—
it possesses a drawback in its over-powering
scent, which to the senses of most people ren¬
ders it unfit for any indoor purpose. Japan
Lilies are quite hardy, and may be grown suc¬
cessfully by persons who have no better accom¬
modation for them than a strip of garden ground,
and a spare window wherein to bloom them, and
to such the following hints may be acceptable :
—The best time to procure the bulbs is in
the autumn or early winter, when they should
be immediately potted; but it sometimes
happens that they are purchased in the spring
with the seeds for the stocking of the kitchen
garden, and questions are often asked respecting
the right time for potting. It is an axiom
amongst Lily growers that the bulbs should
never be suffered to remain out of the ground a
single day longer than is absolutely unavoidable,
the main object being to prevent any drying of
the root scales which are tender, for any injury
which affects the bulbs will re-act on the bloom¬
ing powers of the plants. In making a start in
Lily growing, it is not always possible to regu¬
late the time of potting, and we must do the best
we can under the circumstances; but the posses¬
sor of a few bulbs of these Japan Lilies
acquired late in the spring would do well to
sacrifice all hope of bloom for the year by pinch¬
ing out the flower buds—should they appear—
and to give the utmost attention to the develop¬
ment of the foliage, which will ensure strong
growth for the ensuing season; but this advice,
though wise and prudent, is not likely to meet
with favour. To enter fully into a method of
culture suited to the modest circumstances re¬
ferred to, it will be better to begin at the begin¬
ning of the yearly life history of the Lily, and
follow it step by step, until we once more reach
the starting point of

Repotting the Bulbs.

This should be done as soon as the stems and
foliage turn yellow after flowering, which will
probably be in October. There is then a short
interval of rest, during which root action is dor¬
mant, and of this interval advantage must be taken
without delay for this necessary work. A com¬
post of fibrous peat, loam, and coarse sharp sand
is recommended by most Lily growers, but what
is of much greater importance than its compo¬
nent parts, is that which may be called the
texture of the soil. A porous soil which ad¬
mits of free drainage is indispensable, for though
they require a copious supply of water during
the growing season, a soil sticky with stagnant
moisture is fatal to the well being of Lilies. A
small quantity of pounded, but not powdered,
charcoal is an excellent addition to the compost
for all 6orts of pot-bulbs, for besides its nutri¬
tive qualities it helps to keep the soil sweet and
free. Lumps of charcoal of moderate size, are
also the best material that can be used for
drainage. If possible, the long pots which are
sold especially for bulbs, should be used, because
a couple of inches or more should be left below
the rial of the pot, after the bulbs are covered,
to allow room for future surface dressing. It
is not advisable to put more than one bulb in a
pot, as they scarcely ever start precisely at the
same time, nor do they keep exact pace in growth
A 6-inch pot is large enough for an ordinary sized
bulb, but should any of the plants grow remark¬
ably strong and fine by the month of June, it is
quite safe to shift them into larger pots, if care be
taken to disturb the roots as little as possible.
The work of potting finished, a good watering
should be given to settle the soil about the
bulbs, and the pots may then be packed closely
together into a deep box in which they can be
entirely surrounded and covered over to a depth
of not less than 3-inches with cocoa fibre
sifted coal ashes. The fibre is the most cleanly,
but the coal ashes answer just as well. The
box may be stowed away in any convenient
place, the cooler the better, so long as it is out
of the reach of actual frost, in order that a uni¬
form degree of moisture may be kept up about
the bulbs until growth has fairly begun. Nothing
should be done to encourage them to start pre¬
maturely, for notwithstanding their hardiness,
the growth, for pot culture especially;

should receive no check, and therefore. If too
early, might be the better for shelter not con¬
veniently to be afforded. By the end of May
the pots should be removed to open air quarters.
Where space is limited and there is no cold
frame, the best plan is to keep them still plunged
in ashes or Cocoa-fibre in a rough box as before,
only it should be one just deep enough to take
the pots up to their rims, which will answer
better than the deeper one recommended before.
This box may stand in aDy partially-shaded and
sheltered position throughout the summer, where

The Old White Lily (Lilium c&ndidum).

the plants can get as much light and air as
possible. The north side of a hedge or of a wall
is a good place to choose, but care must be taken
that they do not become onesided. Watering
must be very carefully attended to, as the roots
must never be allowed at any time of year to
become baked and dry, whilst copious syringing
in hot weather over the foliage is essential to
keep the plants free from blight. Green-fly i*
apt to be very troublesome and injurious, and
will inevitably spoil the blossom unless diligently
guarded against. When the plants are in
vigorous growth, frequent waterings with clear
soot-water are very beneficial. In Lilies of this
type, stem-roots are freely produced above the
collar, which go far towards absorbing nutri¬
ment for the flowers to come, and these should
receive every encouragement from top-dressings
of rich light soil into which they can root easily-
Worms should be carefully looked for and re¬
moved from such surface-dressing, as they are
particularly hurtful in getting between the
scales of the bulbs and thereby causing decay.
A course of treatment such as this will result in
strong healthy growth and a good show of buds
in their season, and in August, when these are
nearly ready to open, the pots should be removed
to an airy, light window, where they may expand
under shelter, and where the flowers will last in
beauty for a considerable time. When the
bloom is over, however, they must on no account
be neglected, for it is of the utmost importance
that the bulbs should become thoroughly
ripened. To this end, the pots must be re-
plnnged in their box, which should now be
plaoed in a more sunny aspect than before, and

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

the soil most, by no means, be allowed to become
dry, though less water is needful at this time
than while the plants were making their growth.

temperature to produce cuttings for propaga¬
tion. The Heliotrope is well deserving of ex¬
tended cultivation, and is very desirable in
mixed arrangements. The finest varieties of it
for bedding are Etoile de Marseilles, Surprise,
and Jersey Beauty, the last very dwarf, and one of
the best for bedding. Cold frames containing
comparatively hardy plants, such as Gazanias,
Centaureas, Echeverias, Veronicas, &c., must be
attended to as regards covering when the
weather is frosty.

Flower Garden.

Edgings of Cerastiums, variegated Thyme,
Gnaphalium lanatum, variegated Arabia, varie¬
gated Queen of the Meadow Spiraeas, Aucuba-
leaved Daisies, crimson-leaved Ajuga, the dwarf
Campanulas, Santolinas, and a few other com¬
pact-growing plants, may now be lifted, divided,
and transplanted. Two-year-old edgings are
generally better than those that are only one
year old, so that unlesss they exceed that age
they are better left undisturbed. The variegated
Polemonium cceruleum makes one of our finest
hardy edgings; the best way of treating it is to
lift the roots and pot them in October or Novem¬
ber,and keep them during the winter in a frame or
cool greenhouse, and to transplant them in spring
when they begin to grow. Transplant from
frames, greenhouses, or pits into beds in the
flower garden, Pinks and Carnations wintered in
pots, or autumn layers planted in light soil in
frames in winter.

Bulbs of Lilies yet in store should be
planted as speedily as possible. Gladioli for
blooming in beds or shrubbery borders may be
planted at once 3 inches or 4 inches deep, and a
sprinkling of sand should be strewed under and
over the bulbs. Sow Mignonette where it is
required to bloom, and hardy annuals not sown
last September, here and there in beds or bor¬
ders for transplanting. Sow also a good stock
of Sweet Peas, Nasturtiums, Tropaeolums, and
Scarlet Runners, either where they are to bloom
or in sheltered beds or corners for transplanting
hereafter to their permanent quarters. Autumn-
saved roots of Scarlet Runners throw up shoots
freely, and bloom earlier than seedlings; the
roots require treatment similar to that usually
given to Dahlias. Divide and transplant roots
of herbaceous plants of various sorts. Prune
deciduous plants and climbers, and train such as
may require it. Stocks, Asters, Zinnias, and
similar plants should be sown under slight pro¬
tection or in boxes, to be hardened off and trans¬
planted as soon as April comes in. Verbenas
and Petunias, if sown now in pots or pans in an
ordinary Cucumber frame, will be in time to
make very effective beds. Phlox Drummondi,
Candytufts, and ordinary annuals may now be
sown in beds and borders where they are in¬
tended to flower. It is generally through run¬
ning to seed, and thereby becoming exhausted,
that makes the season of flowering so short in
the cate of most annuals. When kept regularly
divested of old blooms, to prevent the seed-pods
from forming, Sweet Peas, Phlox Drummondi,
&c., may be kept in bloom during the whole
season.

Pansies.— A few pots of these may be re¬
moved from frames to the greenhouse, where
their agreeable perfume and rich colours will be
appreciated. They ought not to be placed there
until they are in flower, as if at a distance
from the glass the growths soon become drawn
up weakly. Cuttings may now be put in to pro-
duce late flowers of a better quality than can be
obtained from old plants. Toe flowers of show
Pansies very speedily deteriorate in quality un¬
less all of them are picked off at frequent inter¬
vals, in order to allow the plants to have a short
rest. The growths ought to be thinned out, and
the surface of the soil dressed with rich compost,
where the young shoots may be pegged down
over it.

Roses. —Mulch dwarf Roses of every descrip¬
tion. More particularly is this necessary with
such varieties as are worked on the Manetti
stock. In planting Roses on this stock it is im¬
portant to see that the place of union of the bud
with the stock be underground. We give the
preference to such Roses as are grown on their
own roots; these, when well established, give
less trouble and produce the best results. Prune
climbing and hardy pillar Roses. By pruning we
do not, however, mean the whole to be clipped
over with a Bhears; on the-contrary...use dis»
cernmefft ■■InVme” exeouliob* 1 fbfl Lime 'Ji^eratron.

of flower they should be trimmed into shape,
and receive a syringing occasionally, in order to
induce them to break freely.

Azaleas that have done flowering should at
once be placed in a warm house and kept
syringed to encourage them to make growth.
Previous to putting them into warmth they
should be closely looked over to see that they
are free from thrips; should any trace of these
be found, the plants ought to be either fumi¬
gated or be dipped orsyringed in Tobacco water.
Any that require larger pots it will be better to
defer moving till some further progress is made
in the growth of the young shoots, as until this
takes place the roots of Azaleas do not begin to
move.

Achimenes and Caladiums.— Achimenes for
late blooming that have not been started should
at once be put into heat. Those first smarted in
pans will shortly be ready for placing in the
pots or hanging baskets in which they are to be
grown. Their rapid growth necessitates a liberal

The leaves and stems must be left untouched until
their work is done and they have become yellow
and dead, and the longer this period is deferred
the better for the well-being of the plants in
the following season. As soon as this is the
case, however, the time for repotting has once

the following season.

more arrived, when the old stem with the dead
roots attached to it should be carefully twisted
out, and the round of culture for the ensuing
season must recommence.

The White Trumpet Lily (L. longi-
florum)

is much to be recommended for pot culture.
This belongs to the funnel-flowered group, which
includes, amongst others much more rare, our old
garden favourite, the common white Lily, and «
entirely distinct in almost every point, except
that of being a Lily, from those above named.
It is a dwarf species, often not exceeding a foot
in height, and is usually one-flowered. Even in
its most common and cheapest form (for Trum¬
pet Lilies can be bought for fid. a piece) it is
very beautiful, and as it comes into bloom much
earlier than the J apan Lily, is desirable in every
way; but there are several varieties which are
much more lovely than the type, and which
should, if possible, be grown in preference to it.
That called L. eximium is very fine, producing
several flowers instead of one, and the price per
bulb is not more than Is. 6d. As these exquisite
Lilies produce bnlblets freely about the collar of
the roots, the stock may be easily and speedily
increased. I make a point of removing

these as soon a9 they can be taken
off with a root-fibre or two, and grow¬
ing them separately in small pots. This
Lily will bear more heat than almost any other
species, and within the last week I have seen
large numbers in the best of health, and well
set already with buds, growing in a warm green¬
house. They are, however, tolerably hardy, and
are often successfully grown even in the open
air. For room decoration, they can be treated
in the way reoommended above for Japan
Lilies; or they may be grown altogether in a
light, airy window, facing any way but north, if
means are taken to provide them with sufficient
moisture both at the roots and to bedew the
foliage, and are worth any trouble to bloom
successfully. Both these Lilies are also admi¬
rably adapted for culture in an unheated green¬
house, if they are so managed that their starting
is deferred until all danger of their receiving a
check from frost is past, and are also allowed to
have plenty of air and moisture during their
growing period. K. L. D.

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK,

Glasshouses.

^ atkring Bhould be done in the morning at
‘ 'iis time of the year, so that the foliage may be
dry before nightfall; and the frames or houses
hould be shut up with the sun-heat in them to
£Pe P the temperature up to what may be con¬
sidered a safe minimum, thereby avoiding any
^ere check ; on the other hand, care must be
^80 to prevent the plants becoming drawn up
and weakly; and above all things they must not
t e aliowed to waste their strength by flowering
: ofore they are finally planted out. The growing
point* should be pinched out as they progress,
m order to induce the formation of dwarf bushy
specimens.

Pelargoniums intended for the flower garden
should now have more space either in pots or
[ oies ; all the variegated, bronze, or tricolor
•arietiea should be potted off singly, also the
Py leaved or trailing section, so useful for
' ases, baskets, Ac.; but some of the strongest-
growing zonal and nosegay varieties may be
brought on thinly in boxes or tied up in Moss.
Any varieties that it is desirable to increase may
hive the points of the shoots taken off and
inserted singly in 3-inch pots.

PUpiikes that have finished flowering, and
•cat are commencing to grow, should receive a
1“? larger pots at once. Give very liberal
rainage, and pot them in a mixture of chopped
’Jny loam, peat, and sand. Flace them in a
Rowing atmosphere, and gradually inure them
0 airy conditions as the'-season advances.
° Acacias and ot her hard-woodcfTtoJantrEpItA^

The Tiger Lily (Lilium tigrinum).

supply of water through the growing season, for
which reason see that the drainage is efficient.
Caladiums not yet started should immediately
be shaken out and repotted. These will be ser¬
viceable, retaining, as they do, their leaves fresh
and in good condition through the autumn.

Bouvardias. —Cuttings of these should at
once be got in; they will succeed either made
from the roots or shoots; where enough of the
latter are not at hand, a good-sized plant or two
will provide a number of the former, using the
stronger pieces in half-inch to 1-inch lengths,
putting them in pots or pans partially filled with
sandy soil, the upper portion being sand alone,
and inserting them about level with the surface
of the material. If kept moist and warm they
will soon commence to grow, and they should be
placed singly in small pots as soon as large
enough to handle.

Tits and frames.—I n suoh as are heated
give no more fire-heat than is absolutely neces¬
sary to expel the frost, and give air as early in
the morning as the state of the atmosphere will
admit.

About the middle of the month the
stock of bedding plants Bhould be looked over;
and soft-wooded plants, of which there is a
scarcity, should at once be placed in a growing

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[March 15 1884

](>

Strong-growing Boses, such as the Boursault,
require well tHnning out, shortening the young
wood but little. Prune Moss Roses by cutting
out the old wood and shortening back the young,
and pegging down the shoots on the beds which
afford the best means of growing this Rose.

Fruit.

Orchard houses —Where orchard house
building is contemplated, in order to save a
year, no time should be lost in potting up a
selection of trees and plunging them up to the
rims of the pots in a dry, warm border, where
they can be mulched and properly attended
with water. The most useful kinds are Peaches,
Nectarines, Plums, and choice Pears; but in¬
stead of potting an endless variety, a few of the
best early, mid-season, and late kinds will give
the most satisfactory results. Of Peaches—
Barrington, Bellegarde, Hale’s Early, Prince of
Wales, Royal George, Stirling Castle, and Wal-
burton Admirable can be rocommended; of
Nectarines—Elruge, Lord Napier, Pitmaston
Orange, Victoria, Violette Hative, and Rivers’
Early Orange; of Pears—Marie Louise, Glou
Morceau, Pitmaston Duchess, Williams’ Bon
Chretien, Brown Beurrij, Doyenne du Comice,
Winter Nelis, Josephine de Malines, Jargonelle,
Huyshe’s Prince of Wales, and Beurrt* Superfin.
Plums should include Golden Drop, Green Gage,
Oullin’s Golden Gage, Transparent Gage, Jeffer¬
son, Kirke’s Purple Gage, Washington, and Reine
Claude de Bavay. Apricots may be grown, but
they are shy croppers, and do not pay for labour
and house room. Some growers incline to plant¬
ing out, but pot trees are quite as easily
managed; they are more fruitful, and, being
portable, they can be removed to the open air
when the time arrives for filling the house with
Chrysanthemums and other useful winter plants.
Our latest trees are still standing close together;
the house is freely ventilated every day to keep
them backward, as we have to keep the winter
occupants under glass until the middle or end
of March. The trees are then placed in position
for the season, and receive the usual attention.
When properly ripened under glass, and placed
eut-of-doors until the blossom-buds begin to
swell, perfect flowers expand rapidly and in¬
variably set well. The fruit in the early house
will require constant thinning, allowance being
made for some of the fruit to drop at stoning
time. An experienced person can distinguish
the properly-fertilised from the doubtful fruit;
and as no amount of attention can carry them
over the stoning period, the latter should be
removed as disbudding is carried on.

Hardy fruit. —If winds have disturbed any
newly- planted trees, see that the supports are re¬
adjusted, and ram the compost firmly when
moderately dry. Cut back all stocks intended
for grafting, and keep scions ready when the sap
begins to ascend. Remove the old foliage from
established Strawberries, thin the crowns if
necessary, and give the beds a liberal dusting
with soot prior to mulching with stable manure;
the latter should be placed between the rows
before the tender young leaves begin to push
from the crowns. Where the formation of new
beds is anticipated, the ground should be deeply
trenched, heavily manured, and made very firm
before planting. If strong runners of last sea¬
son have been preserved in nursery beds, defer
planting until they are on the point of starting
into growth, and if new heavy loam is at com¬
mand, give each young plant a good spadeful to
start with. Tread verv firm, mulch with short
manure, and water in dry weather. The surface¬
dressing and manuring of Raspberries should no
longer be delayed. No hardy fruit so soon shows
the good results of manurial dressings, or gives
better returns, than the Raspberry; and this fact
should be an incentive to the accomplishment
of the operation. Thin out straggling branches
or boughs, and eradicate the suckers from round
about the stems of Nuts. The value of the sticks
thus removed for various purposes will pay for
the labour, not to mention the benefit accruing
to the trees, as root-suckers are little better
than parasites, for they live on the vitality
which would otherwise aid in the production of
more or better fruit.

Vegetables.

When the soil is in good working condition
plant out the most forward autumn-sown Cauli¬
flowers in rather deep drills, and protect with
Yew or Spruce branches. Early Erfurt is one of

Digitized by GOOgle

the best for growing under cap glasses. Take
care of the weakest plants for continuing the
succession until spring sowings come in. Fill
up winter beds of Lettuce, and make fortnightly
sowings of Paris Cos. Transplant the remainder
of winter Onions, also Peas that have been
raised under glass ; stake at once for shelter and
sow Spinach between the rows. Where several
kinds of second early Peas are grown side by
side for trial or exhibition, the middle to the end
of the month is a good time for sowing, after
which proved favourites should be sown fort¬
nightly throughout the season. We generally
oonfine ourselves to one or two good Marrows,
and make a successional sowing when the last
show through the surface of the soil. Early
Savoys, Brussels Sprouts, Cottager’s Kale, and
Borecole sow thinly and protect from birds.
Look well to early Potatoes in course of pre¬
paration for planting. Select nicely-started sets
from the shelves or floors, and get them into the
ground when it is in good condition. In cold,
low gardens subject to spring frosts, avoid early
planting, also strong manure. Place the sets in
very shallow drills, and cover with steel forks.
Prepare ground for new plantations of Seakale
and Rhubarb, also for Asparagus. For the
latter the soil should be repeatedly turned over
and pulverised, planting being deferred until the
young yearlings have started into growth. Some
seeds of Tomatoes should now be sown in beat,
to get the plants established before planting-out
time. The seeds may be sown in an ordinary
8 -inch or 10-inch pot or seed-pan, covering
them with a quarter of an inch of soil, or half-a-
dozen seeds each may be put into 2-inch or 3-inch
pots, afterwards thinned out to a couple of
plants, and potted on as they need it. As soon
as the seed vegetates, keep the plants near the
glass, or they will get drawn up so weakly as to
lack their requisite vigour. Sow a full crop of
Broad Beans, and draw some earth to those that
are above ground. Sow some Leeks for trans¬
planting, also some Parsnips in lines 20 inches
apart in deeply-trenched ground. Sow the main
crop of Onions as soon as the ground is in good
condition for its reception. If Parsley has not
been already sown, some should be put in at
once. Sow also some Asparagus seeds in drills
18 inches apart, but do not transplant last year’s
seedlings till next year. Sow some Brussels
Sprouts and other members of the Cabbage tribe
for autumn use. Of Garlic and Shallots plant
bulbs at onoe.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

HEDGES AND SCREENS.

Next to walls hedges are the most important
fences around a garden; indeed, in many new
places they are made to take the place of
walls, as, now that glass is so cheap, houses
may be put up at moderate cost, and Peaches
and Nectarines grown therein with the certainty
of obtaining a crop; whereas on walls these
and other tender fruits have been almost a
failure for several years past, and from present
appearances are likely to be so again. To be of
real service hedges should be dense and close,
both for the purpose of keeping out intruders
and warding off wind, for which purpose there
is nothing like

Yew or Holly, the last named being pre¬
ferable where it will succeed. The soil that suits
Holly best is that which is light and sandy, and
in districts where it can be so accommodated
this fine evergreen flourishes amazingly, and
always has deep green healthy foliage quite
cheering to look on. Like building a house
or other structure, the great point towards suc¬
cess in raising a Holly hedge is to start with
a good foundation, the first thing to be thought
of being the preparation of the ground, as
on this much depends as regards the growth
of the plants, for to stick them in without
digging or trenching is to lose time and not
give them a fair chance at the start, as it is
impossible for their roots to ramify in land
that is bound together and nearly as hard
as a floor. Not only is it necessary to dig or
trench in preparing to plant a hedge, but it is
also important that the soil be enriched by giving
a dressing of rotten manure, which, however,
should not be strong and rank, but of a mild
nature, as then the young plants can feed on it
at once, and get the rich diet they want. In
places naturally wet it is better to have a shallow

ditch for draining them, and the earth thrown
out in cutting it may with great advantage be
used to raise a sort of embankment,which should
be wide and flat, so that the Hollies can have the
full benefit of rain during the summer, instead of
its running away and being lost, as would be the
case were the ridge narrow and sharp at the top/
Where lands are naturally dry, it is better to
plant without raising the surface,but before doing
this the ground should be broken up at least 2
feet deep and 1 yard wide; and when this opera¬
tion is being carried on the manure can be well
worked in and thoroughly mixed up with the
soil. All will then be ready for planting, which
can best be done by taking out a trench a foot
or so wide and 8 inches or 9 inches deep, accord¬
ing to the size of the plants to be planted. Some
go in for those that are large; but size is not
always desirable, as it often happens that large
plants suffer more than small ones fromremovsL
The most preferable for making hedgerows are
those from 1 foot to 2 feet high that have been
frequently transplanted, as then they have
an abundance of fibrous roots that take to
the soil at once, and the young Hollies are there
fore able to start off and grow without feeling »
check through the lifting. In planting, the roots
should be spread out in the trench, and after
beiDg just covered with soil, heavily watered, bj
doing which, the earth will be carried thoroughly
in amongst them, and if then allowed to settle,
the final filling up can be done a day or two after
The next thing to be thought of is a mulching
which is a great protection, as it not only keeps
the moisture in by preventing evaporation, but,
by shading the ground, fosters and encourage*
root action, and greatly expedites the growth of
the plants. The best time for planting Holliej
is the first week in April, as then they are juston
the move, and the genial showers and refreshing
night dews we generally get at that season keep
the bark plump and enable the buds to break
quickly and strongly. Planted in the autumn
or winter, they have searching winds and hard
frosts to contend with, and the two combined
take the sap out of them and wither the leave*
and rind to such an extent that often many die,
and those that live are left crippled and- are long
in recovering. The next best plant to the Holly
for forming a hedgerow or screen is the
Common Yew, which will thrive in ooW,
heavy land, and grow where the Holly will not.
At Campsey Ash, near Wickham Market, in this
county, there are some remarkable specimens of
Yew hedges, which are or were some 15 feet to
20 feet high, and so thick and dense as to look
like solid green walls. There are also some
equally good in this latter respect at Culford.
near Bury St. Edmunds, which are used to shot
out the vegetable quarters, and right well they
answer the purpose, besides forming shelter
screens, which Yew hedges do in a mosteffectuai
manner, as they sift and break up the wind,
which seems to bury itself in them and is lost.
Desirable, however, as the Yew is for screens and
hedges, it should be widely known that its leaves
and branches are poisonous to cattle, and there¬
fore it ought not to be planted anywhere within
their reach; it is necessary, too, to exercise
great care in disposing of the clippings, which
should be burned at once on being cut off. The
Yew is so hardy and always so well rooted that
it may be planted at any time from September
to the end of April, or later if the soil is washed
in about the roots to give the plants a start. To
have thoroughly good hedges, whether of Yew or
Holly, or any other shrub, they must be kept
wedge-shaped, or wide at the bottom and narrow
at the top, as it is only by letting plenty of light
on the base and forcing out the growth there
that hedges of any description can be kept well
furnished below. At first commencement, and
while in full vigour, it may be necessary to clip
twice during the season, but after a time once
clipping at or about midsummer will generally
keep them in order.

For simple screens that can be got np
quickly, Laurel answers admirably, but it doe*
not bear clipping, or rather soon looks shabby
afterwards, and to have a nice face the shoot*
must be taken out with a knife, as then tbe
leaves are not severed. The Arbor vitae is al* 0
a capital screen plant, and one that stands tbe
shears better than most others, and becomes
very dense and close after being subjected to
a few years’ trimming. Box, too, of the large-
leaved, upright-growing sort is also excellent
for hedges and blinds t and is a. plant that

NA-CHAMPAIGN

March 15, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

17

aay easily be kept in good order, the only
hing against it being that it will not get very
ugh, and is rather slow growing. For quick¬
ies* in getting up, the Privet is one of the best,
md with tall iron hardies to thread the shoots
hroagh between the bars to support them, it
asy soon be run to a height of 10 feet or
nore, and by careful clipping made to look well.
As an ornamental hedge there is nothing to
equal Berberis Darwini, which is not only a beau¬
tiful evergreen, having small handsome shining
foliage, but bears masses of rich, warm-looking,
orange-coloured flowers, that are succeeded
by a wealth of bluish-black berries. This Ber¬
beris, like most of the others, is a ticklish one
to deal with in transplanting; it should not be
moved till April, and then it is necessary to
exercise great care in taking the plants up and
getting them into the ground again before the
roots dry. For an outer boundary fence, a mix¬
ture of Beech and Qaickthorn forms one of the
best, as the former draws the latter up, and they
interlace their branches in such a way as to be
impenetrable by any large animal if plants are
planted thickly and are well furnished below.
Qaickthorn and Holly are also good, although
they do not agree so well as the first-
named mixture, as the Holly, being ever¬
green and thick, has a tendency to choke the
Quick by robbing it of light and air when making
its growth. Privet and Thom get on well to¬
gether and make a capital hedge, as the Thorn,
being stiff, supports the Privet, and the latter
having small leaves, does not unduly encroach
on and overshadow the Thorn. J. S.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

SENECIO JAPONICUS.

In botanical collections this plant has long been
cultivated under the name of Erythrocbaete pal
matifida, bat it is only within the last few yeart>
that it has found its way into hardy plant nur¬
series, though it is oue of the handsomest of all
perennial herbaceous plants, and decidedly the
most ornamental of the numerous species of
Senedo now in cultivation. It is a Japanese
plant, as the specific name implies, being indi¬
genous to the island of Nippon. It is largely
cultivated in Sonthern Japan as an ornamental
plant, and justly so, for in its native habitat it is
said to attain as much as 15 feet in height, with
huge radical leaves quite 5 feet across. We
have never seen it half this height in English
gardens, but we have never seen it growing
under the best conditions to attain full develop¬
ment. It is decidedly a moisture-loving plant;
indeed, it cannot exist long in a light, dry soil
unless it be constantly watered. If planted in
a moist spot, such as near a stream or lake, in
deep loam enriched with well decayed manure,
it would doubtless grow to a great size, and
form a highly ornamental object. The character
of the leaves and flower-stems is fairly well
shown in the accompanying woodcut; the leaves
are all radical, that is, proceeding directly from
the base, and the forked stems rise boldly,
carrying numerous large golden flower-heads in
autumn; consequently, it seldom ripens seed
with us. In order to obtain the finest effect
from this plant it should be placed three or four
in a group, allowing about a yard or so between
the plants, and in no place would it look better
than on lake or river banks in company with
groups of Gunnera scabra and manicata, the
giant Cow Parsnip, Ferulas, and plants of similar
character. Like the Gunnera, the Japanese
Groundsel never looks untidy, for its bold
foliage wears a cheerful green hue from the
time it appears in spring till almost the verge
of winter, that is if it does not suffer from
brought. It is perfectly hardy in the neighbour¬
hood of London, and no doubt it would be north
of it, provided the position was sheltered. Our
thawing was prepared from specimens sent to
m by Mr. Ware, Tottenham, where the plant
apparently luxuriates in a stiff, moist soil.

Irises on the Grass.— How comes it,
*aong all the bulbs and flowers hitherto recom¬
piled and planted on lawns here and there,
tat we so seldom see the many varieties of
P«rman or Flag Iris so used ? We find them
successful so planted; indeed as our soil is
! *p, light, and sandy, it follows that while
»lnost all Xiphions or bulbous Irises succeed
Digitized by ^jjOOQl

well, the Flag Irises, if they do not actually
fail, do not luxuriate so well as they do on
stronger soils. Seeing this, we made a trial of
planting them here and there on the turf, and
the result surpasses our expectations, and we
anticipate some pretty effects in this way. Being
evergreen, they are not likely to be so unsightly
as deciduous plants on Grass must sometimes
prove, and it is quite easy to mow round good
bold clumps and masses of these Irises (as of
other plants), whilst it is not so easy when things
are dribbled in in a scattered way. The common
purple Iris germanica, as seen on a grassy lawn,
is a noble object, but there are twenty varieties
of it at least, some as fine as Brazilian Cattleyas
in colour and as hardy as the Grass itself, and

replanted, or left untouched, they almost always
begin to decay. Very much depends upon the
summer. If hot and parching, then the leaves
are eaten up by thrips, and the crowns rarely
recover; but if cool, the plants may stand fairly
well. More plants, when they get a few years
old, die, however, from root rot than from any
other cause ; and it is not possible to counteract
this decay except by lifting the clumps entire,
pulling off each crown singly clean from the old
root, and then dibbling these out into fresh soil,
where they may get a new lease of life. Still,
the plan of raising a fresh batch from seed is
simplest and best.—A.

Anemone apennina.— This is of all
spring flowers one of the most exquisitely beau¬

Japanese Groundsel (Seneclo japouicus).

the effects to be obtained by the artistic grouping
of these on sheltered but sunny bits of lawn, are
among things “ not generally known.”—V.

Polyanthuses and Primroses from
seed.—These beautiful spring flowers should be
raised from seed annually, but not treated as
annuals beyond the annual sowing of seed.
There is absolutely no difficulty about the
matter, because the Polyanthus always seeds
pretty freely, and the Primroses will do so from
the later blooms in the case of strong plants.
By sowing seed as soon as it can be well ripened,
and pricking out the seedlings in frames shaded
from hot sun, so that they may be strong for
planting out into beds in the autumn, I get a
good bloom from nearly all the plants the first
spring, and a truly grand bloom the second year,
when the plants seem to have reached their best;
and from that time, whether lifted, divided, and

(:

tiful. To enjoy its freshness of colour it must
be plucked in the bud stage and opened indoors,
or they may be pricked into a saucer of wet
Hypnum Moss. If you want to emphasize the
colour, arrange a few flowers of Narcissus with
it, say N. odorus, or, failing that, N. minor, one
of the earliest of our outdoor kinds. We have
had a clump of A. apennina here for some time
from which roots are dug every season for ex¬
change or for dibbling into into the sparse
grassy spaces under trees, and yet, like the
widow s cruse of oil, that clump seems inex¬
haustible, and every year they come up seem¬
ingly as thick as ever. This is one of the good
points in many species of Anemone, they are so
easily increased by breaking up the roots either
intentionally or otherwise. In the case of A.
apennina this is especially the case. We have
a few other plants which seem Hbo increase the

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

18

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

faster for having bits stolen away from them.
Anemone japonica and its white variety do this,
and so also the Caucasian Comfrey (Symphytum
caucasicum), which bears its blue bells dangling
among its hoary leaves, and is a perfect weed
with us.—V.

'When to sow Castor oil plants —
Few plants that are grown for the beauty of
their foliage are more ornamental than the
different varieties of Ricinus or Castor-oil plants,
which are not half so much grown as their
merits deserve, as not only are they fine for
pots, to use for the embellishment of large con¬
servatories or halls, but they are grand outdoors,
where, if planted as single specimens on lawns,
dotted here and there in borders, or groaped in
masses, they produce a striking effect. If
arranged in the last-named way, the stronger
sorts should be placed in the centre, and the
weaker around, that the group may assume uni¬
formity ; and where single plants are used in
prominent positions, the most robust look the
boldest and best. There is one among the
weaker growers deserving of special mention
(It. Gibsoni), which has leaves and stem as
darkly coloured and rich looking as Iresine or
Dell’s Beet, and if planted with an edging of
Abutilon Thompsoni, the contrast between the
two is most pleasing, as they associate and look
well together. As these Castor-oils are gross
feeding plants, the soil should be specially pre¬
pared for them by being trenched or deeply dug,
and at the same time heavily manured with rotten
manure; and if this is done, they will develop
magnificent leaves, and have a shapely appear¬
ance the whole of the summer. Many make
mistakes with Ricinus in sowing too Boon, and
starving the plants at first starting, for if they
become drawn and checked then they run up with
weak, naked stems instead of being furnished
with foliage below. As the seeds germinate so
quickly and the plants grow so fast, the middle
or end of April is quite time enough to sow, as
it is not safe to plant out till the first week in
June, and ihey get to a large size in a month or
six weeks if well treated and nursed on in heat.
Before planting out, it is necessary to harden them
by gradual exposure, and directly they are in the
beds they should be staked and securely tied, or
the wind will break and destroy them.—D.

Culture of hardy flowers.— May I make
a remark or two on Mr. Sweet’s interesting letter
on hardy flowers in Scotland ? Orchis maculata
grows here in quantity. I have never found it
pure white, and from the nature of the spots on
the flower, which must give a slight violet tinge
to the white, I do not think I ever shall. I find
no trouble with Senecio pulcher, neither do I
grow it in anything but ordinary soil. It
blossomed splendidly with me in September.
From its rather succulent character, I should say
it would be better without strong manure. Mo-
narda didyma grows like a weed, also in common
soil, which is very light (not sandy), with a clay
subsoil, under which lies the inferior oolite forma¬
tion, and the clay being very little in quantity,
does not hinder drainage. I think Matricaria
inodora fl. pi. not worth growing in a good
border, and have placed it in odd places, where
its straggling habit will not offend the eye;
perhaps in a hot soil the flowers would be better
than with me ; here they come a very greenish
white. I cannot speak too strongly in favour of
Calendula Meteor; it is a splendid flower, and
strikes everybody. Unless I am much mistaken,
I have thousands of the Daffodil mentioned in
Gardening of February 23rd. It is a perfect
self, pale, creamy yellow, quite answers the
description, and has possibly been growing here
for the last fifty years. I will send some
flowers when out. I think notes from hardy
flower growers in this paper valuable helps. I
strike a quantity of own-root Roses, but I find
they are very shy to bloom, compared with those
on the Manetti. Can anyone say why ? They
make any quantity of wood and leaf. Possibly
they do not want to be pruned so much.—
J. R. Neve, Campd-en, Gloucestershire.

Tobacco plants for the flower
garden.—Sow the seed in gentle heat about the
middle of March, in shallow boxes or pans,
covering over with a piece of glass. When large
enough, prick out the plants singly into small
pots, and shift as required, then harden off before
planting out into the open gronnd. A position
sloping to the south should, if possible, be
chcsen for the yob&ccq,. bed T 3e best soil is a

[March 15, 1884.

rich sandy loam, and there is no better manure
than wood ashes. Plant in rows from June 1 to
J one 20, according to locality. The rows should
be 34 feet apart, and run north and south, and
the plants in the rows should be 3 feet apart.
For small-leaved Tobacco, such as Havannah,
these intervals may be less. The ground must
be kept mellow and free frem weeds, and as soon
as the plants have grown tall enough they should
be earthed up by drawing a little mound of fine
earth round each plant.

Crocuses.— I have a Crocus bed which has
not been disturbed for four years, and is now a
perfect blaze of flowers. At the proper time,
and long before the Crocus leaves have died
down, I sow dwarf Nasturtiums all over the
bed, and by the time the plants are up and of a
fair size the Crocus leaves are about going off,
and gradually disappear. In the autumn the
Nasturtiums are cleared off, and a slight top¬
dressing given to the border, for the Crocus
reproduces itself by new corms on the top of
the old, and so gradually comes nearer the
surface. If, however, the bulbs must be taken
up, delay it as long as possible, and then lay
them in soil in any vacant spot till the foliage
withers; the same rules apply to ail outdoor
bulbs.—S. L.

Ionopsidium acaule.— It is worth while
at any season to sprinkle a few seeds of this
minute but pretty annual in vacant spots in the
borders or rockery.^ A number of scattered
plants, probably self sown, on February 14th, in
the bed allotted to the cresses in the herbaceous
gronnd at Kew, were suggestive. Might not
this unobtrusive little plant be used more often
than it is for carpeting beds, Ac., especially for
temporary work? It blooms in an incredibly
short time after sowing.—K. L. D.

Chrysanthemums changing colour-
—I have had Chrysanthemums this winter,
which, when they first commenced to bloom,
were of a dark purple, and before the flower was
fully out it had turned as nearly white as pos¬
sible. As your correspondent, •• Therfield,”
February 16, has been doubted, I have much
pleasure* in bearing testimony to the facts as
stated by him.— Binnie Craig.

violets not blooming.— The soil gene¬
rally used for Violets is too heavy, which I con¬
sider to be the reason why so many complain
that their Violets do not bloom. The old
roots should be thrown away every spring after
any runners required have been taken off them.
I find well-decayed manure or leaf-mould, with
fully one-third of coarse sand, the best soil for
Violets.—A Constant Reader.

11031.— Winter Cherry (Physalis Alke-
kengi).—This is quite hardy in light or well
drained soils. The seed comes up freely sown
in a pot in a cool house or frame in April. When the
young plants are large enough, put them singly
into small pots, shifting them on as the pots get
full of roots, or plant them out in the open border.
If kept in pots, they will prove ornamental in the
greenhouse or window when in fruit. The stems
die down in autumn, and when in the open
ground, if the soil is naturally close and
heavy, it is well to protect the crowns with cool
ashes.—J. C. B.

11162.— Dwarf Carnations — The dwarf
type of Carnations must have sticks to support
the flower stems. Some dwarf-flowering varie¬
ties have flowers equally as good as some of the
tall-flowering type, and that is as much as can
be said in their favour at present. It is much to
be desired that the dwarf type should be further
improved. So far, the best form of flower is un¬
questionably to be found amongst the tallest
varieties.— J. Douglas.

• i • -i

Manures for bulbs. —An ounce of nitrate
of soda dissolved in four gallons of water is said
to be a quick and good stimulant for bulbs, to
be applied twice a week after the pots are filled
with roots and the flower-spikes are fairly
visible. A large handful of soot, or about a
pint, tied up in a piece of old canvas and
immersed in the same quantity of water for a
day or two, will furnish a safe and excellent
stimulant; also good and safe is a quarter of a
pound of cow manure mixed in a large garden
pot of water and used as required. Any of these
stimulants will do good, or the whole of them
applied alternately will benefit bulbs that need
more sustenance than the soil affords.—8. A.

AMATEURS’ FLOWER SHOWS IN LONDON
Flower shows are scarcely yet in season, aed
it is more than probable that not a gardener it
London knew of a Hyacinth show which vm
held in the neighbourhood of FItzroy Square oi
the afternoon of Ash Wednesday, Feb. 27; jl
it had a special object and interest of itsowi
which might, if made more widely known, striki
a chord of sympathy in many hearts. This little
show was the result of one amongst many effort!
made in London to encourage the cultivation of
window plants amongst the poorer classes, and
was held under the presidency of Mona. 1’ontet
de la Harpe, the well known pastor of tU
French 1’rotestant Church in Bays water, in hii
schoolroom, in Bedford Passage. This relatively
small French community is so enterprising a
to hold two shows annually, which take place ii
this commodious upper chamber : the first, foe
the exhibition of spring bulbs at the present
season; and again in October, for sumnur
flowers—all grown in the windows of Lon*?
which must necessarily be situated in crowded
streets and courts in different quarters of
London. The bulbs, obtained from Hollaed,
are distributed in the autumn to the parent/,
as well as to the children attending tit
school, at a reduced price to all who enter
their names for the competition. Later in tie
spring, another distribution of rooted cuttings
of Geraniums, Fuchsias, and Paris Daisie*
takes place in preparation for the autumn
show. On the present occasion eighty name*
were on the list, but about forty Hyacinths only
were sufficiently well grown to take their place
upon the exhibition table. But these forty-
what evidence they gave of time and loving care
bestowed upon their culture. All who live in
London can realise the plague of smuts, but
these bright flowers were pure and unsmircbed
as though no such troubles as soot and smoke
and dust had any existence in the humble room- 1
where they were nurtured. And the intelligem
faces, full of interest, of the children who c&me'
cheerfully forward to receive the prizes awarded,
not to themselves only, but to the fathers and
mothers, who at that busy time of day were
not all able to be present, suggested maDV
thoughts of the happy influences woven into
the warp of toiling lives with the willing
labour undertaken for the sake of the
sweet bright flowers. As far as I have
been able to ascertain, there is no other show
held in London at this time of year for the
object of encouraging the cultivation of sprirg
flowers in the windows of the working
people ; yet there is every reason to believe that
such an exhibition on a larger scale would not
only be welcome to many, but would be success¬
ful. Bulbs may be tended with so much cer¬
tainty of a return of bloom, that there would be
no great difficulty in getting a large number of
persons to interest themselves in a friendly com¬
petition, and the emulation aroused by a
spring flowers exhibition would be sure to
bring out unsuspected capabilities. Besides
bulbs, however, many other plants might suit¬
ably be pressed into the service by more
ambitious or more skilful growers, and the
opinion may safely be hazarded that the larger
firms of English horticulturists would enter
generously into any such effort to bring the
cultivation of window plants within easy reach
of their less wealthy neighbours. Amongst the
numberless agencies at work for the benefit of
the working classes in London, the encourage
ment of window gardening is surely not one of
the least. No home can be utterly squalid in
which a plant may be grown even tolerably
well, and a Hyacinth may contain a germ of
education, unsuspected it may be by the School
Board, yet none the less real and potent.

Not long since in, the pages of this journal, a
writer on window gardening, living in a den self
populated part of London, after enumerating a
number of plants—Geraniums, Chrysanthemums.
Lilies, and others—which he had grown success-
fully in his room, goes on to say : “ An exhibi¬
tion in some local hall of all the above, in each
of their seasons, grown bema-fide in window,
and started in every district by some one who
has the power and will, would, I think, be a
great boon to many, with the happiest result*.
This expression of opinon will be fully endorsed
by all who are interested in the subject. The
Btimulue of such exhibitions is needed to giro
the required impetus, and in some quarters of
this great metropolis tH^ importance of this it

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

March 15, 1884.]

Gardening illustrated

19

eady recognised on behalf of the very poor,
it it may be suggested that the sort of exhibi-
n most wanted, and which would be most
)roughly appreciated, is one set on foot by
s artisans and working men themselves, with a
,le margin of classes tor humble amateurs of
i torts. “Self is the best officer to do any-
ng for you,” is the doctrine of one—General
irdon—whose lightest word carries weight,
id if two or three well educated working men
a district were to take the matter in hand
th intelligence and energy, forming themselves
to a nucleus, content at first it may be with very
lall things, they wonld assuredly before long
tract to themselves substantial aid from in-
icnti&l quarters, for the enterprise and inde-
ndence which prompts self-help is sure to
eet with support. Working men combine for
any purposes not always harmless; let them
mbine to promote an innocent hobby amongst
emselves, and the result, I venture to say, will
ore than repay the necessary outlay of leisure
me, labour, and money by giving a return of
ljoymenfc and interest, the value of which to
ird working men can hardly be over estimated.

K. L. D.

plant. Then give them a good watering, and
shut up close for a week or ten days, giving
them but little air. Remember to lift the plants
with a good ball of earth attached to the roots.
The plant will not suffer in moving from the
beds to the frame. Shade the frame after
planting if the sun is hot for a week or so, then
begin to give a little air every day, and pay
attention to pinching off the ride shoots or run¬
ners, as before mentioned, up to February, then
you may let some grow to have sufficient for
Cuttings in March for the following season. If
these instructions are carried out you will obtain
a nice lot of Violets all through the winter
months. By the latter end of October you will
require to have mats to cover the frame to pro¬
tect the plants from cold, also keep a nice warm
lining of stable manure around the frame if
possible, as the Violet requires to be kept up to
40° or 50° of heat to keep the plants in a flower¬
ing state. When any damp appears pick them
over and remove any leaves that may be affected,
give a little air every day if possible, and be
cautious not to let any strain get in from the
dung lining, as it will injure the foliage.

M. P. B.

INDOOR PLANTS.

HE NEAPOLITAN VIOLET FOR WINTER
BLOOMING.

commence in March to prepare cuttings,
aking the cuttings from plants which have
een grown in the frame the former season,
repare soil as follows : Two parts loam, with
le part decayed leaves, one part river sand;
ell mix the compost together, then crock the
ots—6-inch pots are suitable for the cuttings,
ill the pots with the above compost, and press
firmly in the pot; put a quarter of an inch of
\er sand on the top of pot, which will be in a
t state to receive the cuttings. Take the ent¬
ers by the middle of March, not later if pos*
ible, and put them in, and give them a watering
orough a fine-rosed watering-can; then place
bem in a warm frame or pit, and keep them
retty close for three weeks, by which time they
bould be struck or rooted; then give them
lore air. Do not allow the cuttings to flag
fter putting them in; they will require shad-
og for a short time. By the middle of May
bey should be fit for planting out into the
ummer beds, which should be prepared for
hem. Get some of the best rotten manure at
land, and pat a good amount on the ground,
md dig it in 18 inches deep; then make the
>eds 3 feet in width; divide the small plants
Tom the cutting pots, and plant them 9 inches
ipart from plant to plant each way, giving them
i good watering after planting. A northern
aspect is the best for summer growth. If
planted in a southern aspect they are likely to
be infested with red spider, which are difficult
to get rid of. The best plan is to give them a
sprinkling overhead every afternoon during dry
weather, with a good watering once a week.
The plants will require to be looked over every
three weeks to stop or pinch off the small side
ihoots, or runners as we term them, as the Vio«
let makes runners similar to the Strawberry
plant. If those runners are allowed to grow
they will impoverish the principal plant for the
autumn work. Attending to the watering and
pinching the runners off, is all that will be re¬
quired till September, when you will find your
plants well set with flower buds. In September
commence to prepare the stable manure for
making the hotbed. If you have fresh leaves
mix them with the stable manure, and make the
bed 3 feet deep; place your frame on the dung
bed, and then prepare the compost for the
frame. The bed should be made in a southern
aspect for winter flowering. The compost is as
followsFour barrowloads of good loam from
a rood pasture field (if it has been cut for six or
t>elre months, all the better) with one barrow-
k>»d of the best rotten manure you can get, and
r *e barrowload of river sand if the soil is stiff
f ^ 'eoacious; but if it is free, sandy loam, you
€ JN require the sand, or not as much of it.
i All well together, then fill the frame with
fi J*l up to within 6 inches of the lights, as the
f likes to be as close to the light as possible.
r j lb*»oilshould be 1 foot deep; if 14 inches, all
p 15 After the frame has been filled,

,» ««the plants up from the be^s and plant
in the frame 9 inches a]

ae beds and plant
apart front pit nt £c

Mignonette In pota.— A cold frame in an
open sunny position is the place for Mignonette
in pots. Prepare some clean dry 5-inch pots, by
placing one large crock in the bottom, and over
that a small handful of the rougher part of the
compost, or a little half rotten dry manure. The
soil may consist of, say, three parts of loam, one
part rotten manure, and one part leaf soil, with
a little coarse sand added. Three parts fill
the pots with this compost, pressing mode¬
rately firm; water a little, then surface with
lighter soil, leaving the surface 1 inch below
the rim of the pot. On this sow about a dozen
seeds, covering slightly with fine soil. When all
are finished, place them in the frame, and if there
is nothing else in it, shut up close, otherwise put

piece of glass over each pot. Shade from
very hot sun till the plants are well up; if the
soil gets quite dry, water gently, but not other¬
wise, and as soon as the plants appear air must
be given, a little at fiist, increasing gradually
as the plants gain strength, till the frame is
open more or less both by night and day, in
fine or mild weather. As soon as the plants are
1 inch high, they mast be thinned to foar or five
in a pot, leaving the strongest, and at equal dis¬
tances. From this time the plants must be
kept as near the glass as possible, have plenty
of air, sun, and water, though the soil must not
be allowed to get at all sodden. When fairly
in growth, prick up the surface of the soil and
add a surfacing of equal parts of loam and
decayed manure, so as to bring the soil to
within half an inch of the rim of the pot. If
any get very dry, place in a pail of water for
half-an-hour, manure water may be given occa¬
sionally. Place four small stakes round the
hedges of the pots if necessary, with a piece of
raffia twisted round for support, but if the
plants are grown dwarf ana stocky, this will
hardly be necessary. When coming into flower
remove to the greenhouse or sitting-room.—
C. R.

Polyanthus Narolssl. — These are ex¬
cellent for pot culture and early blooming at
this season. When in London last autumn I
procured a number of varieties, and for the past
month they have outrivalled my Hyacinths, at
least in their holding their blooms longer, if not
in sweetness. Gloriosa was the first to open in
the last days of February. It was potted in
October in a 6-inch pot and put in a cold frame.
It has twelve expanded blooms now on it with
two to open, each two-thirds of an inch across—
a very fine truss. Equally fine is Her Majesty, and
gloriosa and Bathurst are splendid too. Dwarfer
are noblissimum and Etoile d’Or. I would never
force them by heat at all.—W. J.

Eurya latifolia variegata.— This Eurya
makes a very pretty shrub for conservatory
decoration, as its leaf variegation is always
bright and cheerful. In texture the leaves are
somewhat like those of a Camellia, but more
elongated, of a bright shining green, extensively
marked with creamy white, and in the young
state beautifully flushed with pink when exposed
to light and sunshine. It is seldom met with in
private gardens, yet it is sometimes grown as a
market plant, so that, in all probability, it will
^filter a time become more plentiful. It does not

strike very readily from cuttings—that is to say,
they often remain some time before roots are
formed. It succeeds best when cuttings of the
young shoots, just as they commence to becon e
a woody texture, are used, and put in dote
cases on a gentle heat.—A.

Primula verticillata.— This pretty little
Primrose well deserves attention ; for, although
requiring the shelter of a greenhouse, it forms a
very pretty object therein during the early
spring months, when its tuft of meal-covered
leaves is surmounted by a whorled spike of
bright yellow blossoms. The perfume, though
not strong, is sufficient to scent the surrounding
air, when in flower, with a fragrance reminding
one of that of the Cowslip. It is of easy
culture, and will be found to flower very freely
in small pots, If plunged out-of-doors during
the summer, its growth is firmer, and the spring
show of flowers greater than if kept in frames
at that time. Like some of the others, I find
that the seed of this Primula germinates freely
if sown as soon as ripe, but when kept a little
time its appearance above ground is very erratic,
and sometimes it refuses to grow altogether.—
H. G.

11134.— Stove plants In vinery —Stove
plants will succeed in a vinery during the
forcing period. You might grow many useful
flowering plants in it. Dendrobiums of the
deciduous species, such as D. nobile, Wardianum,
crasinode, &c., Eucharis amazonica and Can¬
dida, Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora, and a host of the
different varieties of Amaryllis would also flower
well. Stove Ferns and foliaged plants would
also do well. The old Hoya carnosa would be
useful for the back wall. Clerodendron Bal-
fouri and Bougainvillea glabra would also do
well. Stephanotis floribunda is also a universal
favourite. You might, if not careful to keep
the plants clean, All the house with mealy bug,
before you are aware of it. The question about
keeping the house always for a stove is rather a
difficult one. The Vines require a period of
rest, and this is obtained by keeping the house
cool and dry. If the Vines are planted so that
the canes can be taken outside during their
period of rest, the difficulty would be overcome.
—J.D. E.

11104— Camellia buds falling 1 off.—
This disappointment is very often caused by the
would-be-kindness on the part of the cultivator.
You do not say if the buds fall off periodically,
and as to giving Camellias liquid manure after
their buds are set, it should be applied very
cautiously, especially by an inexperienced cul¬
tivator. It is very often the cause of the buds
falling; also too much water or too little (most
often too little), for if Camellias have plenty
of drainage it is best to keep them moist, but if
they once get thoroughly dry, give the plant a
shake, and the buds will come down like a showc r
of hailstones. In your case the heat of the
chimney may have unduly excited the plant, and
you have, perhaps, kept the house too close. A
temperature from 40° to 45° suits Camellias best
before they begin to open their blooms.—W. K.

11118.— Habrothamnus not flowering.

—It is difficult to say why this plant does not
flower with you, as it is one of the most florife-
rous plants we have for the decoration of the
conservatory, succeeding sometimes under the
most adverse treatment. Probably you have
stopped the shoots when they were about to show
flower. In the coming season stop it only once
about the middle of June. After it breaks away
again treat it liberally, as it is a grosB feeder. It
will then, I think, repay you for your trouble.—
W. K.

. 11120. — Plants for shaded green¬
house.—If little or no sun reaches the green¬
house, climbers will not do very well in it. By
your description it seems just adapted for Ferns.
You should get pockets made of cement and
rough bits of stone all over the wall in which to
plant the Ferns. Try aid make the pockets so
that the wall, when finished, would look like a
piece of natural rock-work. If you have no heat
in the house, grow none but British varieties.—
J. Robertson, Corcdenknorvet.

A friend for amateurs.—A flour dredger similar
to those used by the cook, but made to hold a quart, and
with larger holes, I And very useful for duating plants
with soot, lime, or artiflcial manure, as it enables mo to
spread the sf.ufT, whatever 4i may be, evenly. -DlttBV —

URBA

-CHAMPAIGN

20

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[March 15, IS*

FRUIT.

Ribston Apple on Pear stook.— I

came across the following article a fews days
ago, in an old number of the “ Leisure Hour,”
and as the grafting season is close at hand I
forward it, thinking that it may be of service
to some of the readers of Gardening. “Ameri¬
can Blight (Aphis lanigera) frequently proves
very destructive to fruit trees, and more par¬
ticularly to our finest winter Apple, the Ribston
Pippin. More than thirty years ago, a Mr.
McHardy (at that time gardener to John
Grant, Esq., of Kilgraston) haviDg observed,
during the progress of this insect over the
garden under his charge, that the Jargonelle
Pear uniformly escaped being attacked by it, it
occurred to him that by grafting the Ribston
Pippin Apples upon stocks of the Jargonelle
Pear, the influence by which the latter appeared
to resist the attacks of the Aphis might be im¬
parted to the Apple. He accordingly made the
experiment, and the result not only answered
Mr. McHardy’s expectations with regard to the
health of the wood, but in the improvement of
the fruit, both as to size and flavour. Specimens
of the wood and fruit from a tree suffering from
the attacks of the aphis, and from a grafted
tree, presented a remarkable contrast, and
afforded the most convincing evidence of the
beneficial effects of the system pursued, and
which the experience of successive seasons has
fully confirmed.”—G. W.

Top dretjsing for Strawberries.—

Soot is one of the best possible manures for
Strawberries, giving that size, substance, and
colour to the leaves which is the surest sign of
vigour. In about a week after the dressing,
unless rain has fallen in the interval, the plants
should receive a heavy over-head drenching.
Tbis clears the crowns and leaves, and renders
the soil uncomfortable for worrrn, woodlice,
earwigs, or other Strawberry-loving creeping
insects that may be present. No living thing
likes soot or lime, and the mixture is still more
nauseous and disagreeable to them. In a few
more days, and when the surface gets a little
dry, a cleansing dressing of rather fresh tanner’s
bark, if it can be got, may be put on about l £ inch
thick. This is also very distasteful to insects, no
snail, 6lug, or worm remaining in or near it if they
can help it. After a few washings it gets so clear
of tannin as not to taint the fruit that lies on it
to ripen. The Strawberry plants seem to thrive
under the tan exceedingly, as it keep3 the mois¬
ture and strength in the soil. It has another
great merit. If it be needful, as it often is
during dry weather, to water the plants during
their swelling stage, the tan speedily presents a
dry surface again for the fruit. This quality of
rapid drying and of a rough hard surface is
equally useful during a rainy time through the
ripening period. In a word, tanner’s bark is
one of the cleanest and safest mulchings for
Strawberries. Softer materials, such as short
Grass litter, waste hay, half rotten straw, kc ,
yield to the wet and allow the fruit to sink intc
them, to their sudden and complete destruction,
while tan is almost equal to tiles or pebbles in
providing a hard clean bed for the fruit. It is,
in fact, one of the oleanest and best dressings
for Strawberries, having powerful anti-inBect
and also anti-rotting qualities.—T.

Cropping fruit tree borders —The

annual cropping of fruit tree borders with vege¬
tables is a great evil, and some of the diseases
of wall trees are due to this cause. Not only is
the nutriment taken out of the border, but the
spade drives the roots down beyond'the reach of
solar warmth, which js so essential to the proper
ripening of the wood. Moreover, all fruit trees
thrive and bear best in a firm Boil (I do not
mean an unworked soil), and especially is this
firmness necessary for the Peach and the Apricot.
If the whole border cannot be given up to the
trees, at least 5 feet running along the back
should be left uncropped, and beyond the sur¬
face culture, undug.—H.

Staking plants —It is requisite to tie
out plants in pots, such as Pelargoniums, Fuch¬
sias, kc. Now, in my opinion, wooden sticks
are an abomination, as they oocupy too much
valuable space, and do not look well. I was in an
old umbrella and parasol maker’s the other day,
and saw a quantity of old rihg of umbrellas tied
up together, iind T thopgk* T wc uld.utilize them. I

asked the man what he would have for the lot,
and he said he should be glad to get rid of
them, so I gave him something, and the matter
ended. I had a bed of Asters in bloom, and
used a great many for supports, and they
answered admirably, being quite support enough,
and scarcely seen. Some may say ordinary
wire would do as well, but it will not, because
it bends, and these old ribs do not.—C. G.
Marshall.

VEGETABLES.

Planting Jerusalem Artichokes —

No vegetable with which I am acquainted is
more easily cultivated than the Artichoke. It
will grow in almost any soil or situation. I
know of no disease which affects it or insect
which attacks it, and to these exceptional
recommendations may be added the great value
of the roots, which are both nutritious and
wholesome. I am sure that if those who have
neither grown it nor used it would take it in
hand now, they would not regret doing so. It
is at this time that its cultivation for the year
should begin, and I hope many may be induced
to try it. As has just been observed, they are
not particularly dainty as to soil. I have, indeed,
seen them growing and fairly remunerative even
in waste corners; but the heaviest crops and
the finest and best flowered tubers are to be had
from good ground. It is not throwing away
labour or manure to prepare Artichoke ground
in the same way as is generally done for
Potatoes. The ground should be deeply dug and
well manured, and the crop will undoubtedly be
heavy. Where roots have been dug up for use
throughout the winter, the largest only of each
should have been used, and the medium-sized
ones put aside for seed. In this way a good deal
of seed may be Iq store now; but if there are
still some of last year’s crop remaining in the
ground, they should be lifted, the seed selected,
and the large ones stored for use until the new
ones are ready. Some cultivators do not replant
annually, but leave them in the ground year
after year, much to the detriment of the crop.
This is an unprofitable way of treating them ;
we would have them all lifted and replanted
every spring. Growing them too close together
results in undersized roots; 3 feet from row to
row and 18 finches set from set is a distance
from which the finest roots may be had. In
planting they should be placed about 3 inches
below the sarface, and after they are put into
the ground hoeing to destroy weeds is all the
attention required. From seed planted now
there will be roots large enough for use in
September, and after that the supply will be
continuous. The roots are very accommodating;
they may either be taken up and stored in a
shed at the beginning of winter or they may be
left in the ground and dug up as required. As
Jerusalem Artichokes grow from 6 feet to 8 feet
high, they may be planted to form profitable
and effective Bummer screens, and they will
also afford shelter or shade for more tender
plants.—J. M.

How to grow Sage —It may, I think,
almost be stated as a fact that in nine gardens
out of ten, Sage is grown and treated as a per¬
ennial (which it is), and propagated by cuttings,
i.e., when afresh stock of young plants is wanted;
in addition to this, it is no uncommon thing tosee
it growing in some out-of-the-way place, and
the year’s requirements depending entirely
on a few old scraggy plants of it, may be
half a dozen or a dozen years old. Instead of
this old and rough-and-ready system of growing
Sage, I would recommend those who are de¬
sirous of obtaining the best results to treat it
henceforth as an annual, and thereby ensure
success as a certainty. Sow seed at once in pans
filled with a compost consisting of finely
sifted soil, leaf-mould, and sand, place them in a
brisk heat, and when the yonng plants are large
enough to handle, prick them out in shallow
boxes or in frames 2 inches or 3 inches
apart each way. There they may remain till
end of April, and after being duly hardened off,
planted out in the open ground in rows a foot
apart, and the same distance plant from plant
in the rows. Previous to planting, the ground
should be dug and well manured with newly
collected horse-droppings, and be raked over
afterwards with a fine-toothed rake. Should the
weather prove dry at the time of planting, give

UF

a good soaking of water through a rosed wi
ing-pot, and at intervals subsequently til]
young plants get established. Nothing fu
is required except an 1 occasional hoeing to i
down weeds. Towards the end of August , i
the plants have attained their full size, the
should be harvested, and may be cut elite
scythe,'sickle, or knife. After being thorou
dried in the sun, tie the whole up in bee
and store them in some dry pl&oe. By ac
ing this mode of culture, and growing sup¬
plants to fill a bed from 12 to 20 yards long
4 feet wide, a supply of Sage for nearly e
day in the year may be had for a vsry 1
establishment.—H.

Corn salad or Lamb's Lettuce -

grows well without much trouble in almost
soil. Sow now for the first crop in drills 6 in
apart, and thin out to 4 inches asunder. 1
are best used when quite young. Sow agt:
May, June, and August under similar conditi
In gathering the winter crop only the fl
leaves should be used, leaving the roots
further production, but in summer the *1
plant may be cut up when young.

11153.—Dwarf Tomatoes.—“ H. C"
procure seeds at any respectable seedsman
seedlings ready for potting o ft can be got &
many nurserymen who advertise in this pai
They should be potted off in small pots, i
shifted on into 6-inch pots, and, when i
rooted and before they become pot-bo*
should be firmly potted in 12-inch pots, 4
good loam, and a boat one-fourth good, rod
hot-bed manure mixed with it. Keep u a
the glass as possible. They will require pb
of water during sunny weather, and mm
water once or twice a week would beagr
help to them when they are swelling tbeir£r
—E. E.

-Orange Field Dwarf Prolific is the<

be3t adapted for your wants. Any respef«
dealer can supply seeds. An 11-inch pots
good size in which to grow them. Good vefj
loam, to which has been added a third pot
rotten stable manure, will grow them wc"
J. D. K.

11158.—Mushrooms without epaw n.—Miutaf
spawn can be obtained from bone droppings, If the ii
it highly fed, by mixing chopped straw Intimate!? vt®
aud turning often in a warm sheltered place: Lot w
is no need for this, aa ready-made spawn Is fsirh ^
—G. B.

-A heap of horse manure will sometime! prc4

Mushrooms without being spawned, but yoa r_j
depend upon getting them in this way. Then k
certainty unless you insert spawn in the <9

Rats.—Allow me to say a few words
rats. Some years ago I lived in a housed
boundary walls of which were built with a
My neighbour was a retired farmer; he had t
sons at home who were sheep dealers, IaJ
winter they used to give oil cake in piece* at
the size of a small walnut to the sheep. Fai
purpose they would keep a fair supply,
became a great nuisance to me. They wo
their way through my cob wall, about 2 ft,
thick, and had many a good meal of 6omeai
choicest morsels. 1 stopped their run*
broken glass and mortar, bat in a night ot
they made a circuit and came in agair
again. I set a steel trap at the mouth of ol
their runs. This they absolutely took sway.i
never saw it afterwards. (I presume, of cot
that one of them got caught in it, perhaps '
his tail or one foot, and thus dragged it an
I was told to catch one alive, if possibles
tar it, as per your correspondent, “ M. ^ *
advice. I did so. I positively dipped tbers
into a bucket of tar, overhead and ear*- 1 i
let him run. Whether his neighbours ran 31 1
from him or not, they did not run from me
the contrary, they seemed to return tbreefcj4 ,
though to revenge the insult to their friend I j
relation. One day we went to remove an: i
dresser out of our back kitchen. At the* i
of it I found an immense run, and abtn
inches from the ground they had eaten a
into one of the drawers. There I found
they had made a nest. Not only that, bat I ft
as much of my neighbour’s oil cake as J cfi
hold in my two hands. They had worked a
into the cupboard where the cake was kept,
carried it into my house to eat it in P*J
suppose. This was rather startling to hoi
us. I resolviid to keep t wo cate and let my«

SBANA-CHAMPAIGN

.March 15, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

21

- t terrier have the ran of the house, which had
• desired effect better by far tha.n poison,

- £>aM the dead bodies are snch a nuisance.
JBTia

< ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(miscellaneous.)

i 11050— Grubs in new soil.— These aie
a lame of the daddy longlegs (Tipula
eraoea). The males are first on the wing,
id may be seen in July searching among
ie plants for the female as she emerges from
ie soil, as she does, like the shoots of some her-
.tceoos plants, only black. This black-pointed
iniuli soon opens in the sun, and liberates a
autiful winged insect much larger than the
ale. The disgusting progeny, the leather
ab, is perpetuated the following spring.
J. D. E. recommends soot. It has no effect
x>n them. A lamp will not enable one to see
em. They are just the colour of old garden
il. where they are most numerous, especially
town gardens. It was in such a garden I
•at made their acquaintance, though an old
nateur. The soil of such gardens should be
irted away to the depth of 3 feet. It would
ake good top-dressing if well mixed with an
iual bulk of litne; as it is, in many cases, it
ivelops every form of insect pest. If the old
•or soil could be exchanged for good loam,
* ere would be an end of many of these vermin
r years to come. I find the best way to deal
ith them is to catch and kill, and now is the
tne, before asters or other delicate things are
anted out. Bring a few wild Daisies from the
fids, and plant them singly about the vacant
•rdere. In about a week take an old cup with
me salt ia the bottom, and with a pointed
ick scrape away the soil all round these
aisies. You will find these grubs in hundreds,
om a quarter to an inch in length. Throw
em into the cup ; the salt kills them instantly.

Y this means a border may be almost cleared
•fore the plants are ready. To sow seeds
here they exist is nseless, and to plant any-
dng worth growing is to court failure—Asters
id Cornflowers especially. Some plants, such
•» Stocks, they do not touch, if there is any
her food.—G. B.

10969.— Uses of green houses. —The two
50368 which are planted with Vines can
arcely be better utilised, the more especially
i you say you have but little time, and do not
ire to spend much money on the garden. The
incipal work in connection with vineries,
dependent of the daily routine of air giving,
'c, is the stopping of the shoots and thinning
ve berries—all light and pleasant work, and
«ily enough done with a little practice and
tperience. If the borders are outside, the roots
»U find moisture enough in a general way, and
5ere will be no need to trouble about watering,
he small heated house would prove useful for
wwing a miscellaneous collection of flowering
ad other plants, and not being large the work
acprred thereby would not be great. The re¬
gaining structure, which is unheated, would do
rell for Tea and other Roses, or Peaches, or both,
TCamelias might be planted out in it, with a
w Roses on the roof, or semi-hardy climbers,
«ch as Passiflora ccerulea, Lapagerias, Clematis
odivisa, kc. It would also form a fine shelter
** Chrysanthemums in autumn, and it might
* filled with tuberous Begonias in pots in sum-
nsr, as these die down in autumn, are stored
way for the winter, and do not start again till
IpriJ —J. C. B.

11099.—Out flowers for profit.—It

*oold not be advisable to grow any of the plants
'on mention to supply out flowers for market,
acept the Camellias, and of these the white
>aes are the best, and will pay well if you
get them into flower about Christmas,
■'aent and mollis Azaleas are certainly very
Pfctty, but not very profitable to grow for mar-
Begonias, Gloxinias, and Fachsias are of
Httle value for the market as cut flowers. If
P® heat to bring into flower white Roman
Hyidnths and some of the white Indian Azaleas,
A. Narcissiflora, by the end of December
pr Christmas) and during January, they would
ready sale. You should gro w a good collection

AflrwTiiallv Marophal Mini T

nias, you will manage to market them better than
most other things. Lilinm candidum would also
be a good thing to grow. The prices rise and
fall according to demand and the quantity in
the market.— J. Robertson, Cotvdenbiorees.

11132.— Fish as manure. —Fish forms an
excellent manure, but it is so offensive
that few people care to use it. A market gar
dener told me the other day that he could get cart
loads of it, but he added that he did not care
to cart it home, as one cannot go into the fields
while it is being used. The neighbours also
complain of it as a nuisance. Dry earth or dry
charred rubbish are both deodorisers, and would
take away the bad smell. It could be dug in at
once, and is excellent for all garden crops.
Pound the oyster shells up with a hammer, or
crush them 6ome way. I would not advise
calcining them.—J. D. E.

The refuse of fish is in some districts
largely used as a manure, and a good manure
it is. It owes its qualities to its oils, etc., but
the bones are even more valuable, as they con¬
sist principally of phosphates of lime, the value
of which is too well known to need explanation.
The shells should be pounded and mixed with
the other portions, and k*pfc for six months in a
heap in the dry, covering the heap with mould.

I donotlike theideaof applying it in a fresh state,
as I am sure it causes the ground to become in¬
fested with insects, as is the case with butcher’s
refuse. I should not apply any unfermented
fish to the vines, as it causes a rapid but diseased
growth. In the garden it is most powerful, and
is a splendid manure for all the inhabitants of
the kitchen garden : but, perhaps, its effects are
greater on Asparagus than on any other crop,
doubtless, on account of Asparagus being a salt
loving plant. The best mould for Adiantums is a
compost of sandy peat with a little leaf-mould.
This is the best time for dividing the plants. If
you mix a few lumps of cbarooal with the mould, it
will be very beneficial in many ways. There was
a most valuable article in Gardening Illus¬

trated on the culture of Adiantums about
October or November last, which every amateur
would find of great service.—J. W.

11145.—Climbers for warm fernery.—
“ Hants ” will find Lapageria rosea and its
variety, alba, magnificent climbers for his warm
fernery, which he says does not get much sun.
If a good stout plant of the old deliciously-
scented Heliotrope be trained on the back wall
and judiciously pruned to indnce a bushy habit,
it will give a profusion of its sweet flowers
through summer, autumn, and winter. Perhaps
the finest of all climbers for a warm greenhouse
is the sweet white and free flowering Stephanotis
floribunda. It is a noble plant for catting for
bouquets or decorative purposes. It requires
frequent applications of the garden engine to
keep it clean, and this can easily be done in a
fernery. Any free growing and flowering
Fuchsia will al*zo thrive well in such a situation,
and afford a profusion of bloom.—W. Phillips,
Hoole, Chester,

11110.— Culture of Sunflowers.— “ Eve”
wishes to plant one third of an acre with Sun¬
flowers : —Half a pound of seed will be sufficient
if this is sown very thinly in drills 2 inches
deep and 1 foot apart on a warm border. They
may be planted out when 6 inches or 7 inches
high in April, or the land may be formed into
drills 2,feet apart, and the seed sown 2 inches
deep, afterwards thinning the young plants to
1 foot apart in the drills. Keep clean and hoe
up like Potatoes when the stems have attained
a height of 1 foot. The ground should have a
heavy dressing of manure previous to planting.
—W. Phillips, Hoole, Chester.

11108 — Flowers for cottage garden.
—“ Cottager ” should get a few packets of hardy
annuals, such as Marigolds, Candytuft (white,
crimson, and purple), Chrysanthemums in,
variety, Clarkia, Godetia, Lilium grandiflorum,
Mignonette, Nasturtium, Silene, 8weet Pea,
Nemophila, and Eschscholtzia. Sow about tbe
middle of April.— J. Robertson, Cowdenknones.

10992.— Double glazing. —From experience
would say, do not have the roof of any glass¬
house double glazed. It certainly is warmer,
and economises fuel, but tbe gain in this way is
the expense of the plants, which, through the
~ater obstruction of light, become tender and
'eebled. In the course of time, too, the inner

surfaces become coated with green slime, and
then it is as if the house were perpetually
shaded, and the glass can never be washed
clean unless the upper squares are taken out. It
is only in cold climates where it would other¬
wise be almost impossible to keep out frost that
double glaziDg is advisable.—J. C. B.

11089.— Peas and mice—Get a few
branches of Furze or Gorse and chop them up
into about inch lengths, and cover the Peas
with the Gorse before covering them with earth.
It is a plan I always adopt, and with the best
results. I frequently find the holes of the mice
down to the Furze, but never further. If the
ground, like mine, is heavy, tbe Gorse is an ad¬
vantage to the Peas, as it tends to keep it open,
and the Peas grow all the better for it.—R. Y.

11150.—Hops as manure.—Spent hops
will make good manure mixed with other
matter of a more stimulating nature, such as
guano and a little loam or potting stuff to form
a compost. But a still better use may be made
of them, viz., if mixed with leaves or manure
they will make excellent hotbeds for starting
seeds or young cuttings in spring, in addition
to assisting to make up a Cucumber bed when
mixed with rather long stable manure.—W.
Phillips, Hoole , Chester.

11149.— Freeing Grass from Moss.—
Continually cutting the Grass close year after
year without applying any stimulant weakens
the Grass and causes Moss to grow. If you will
apply about two dressings of guano during the
season, the Grass will become luxuriant at the
expense of the Moss.—J. D. E.

- Rake away all the Moss possible with a
steel rake in the first place, then mix together
fresh slaked lime and fine soil, in the propor¬
tion of one of lime to two of soil, spread over
the lawn about an inch thick, and brush in. This
will improve the Grass and destroy the Moss. If
the Grass is thin sow a few fine Grass seeds, snch
as Cynosurus cristatus and Festuca tenuifolia.

— W. Harris, Bamstnjfle.

11154— Cucumbers and Strawberries.—The
best Cucumber is Telegraph, and the best Strawberry
President. It is rather difficult to name the best Straw¬
berry, as it would be to name the best Rose. Sir Joseph
Paxton, Keen’s Seedling, or British Queen might be pre¬
ferred to President by some growers.—J. D. E.

“ Young Gardener” will And the following the best
varieties of Cucumber for growing in a frame, being
immensely prolific, of good quality, and hardy, and may
be grown all the year roundPhenomenon, Monro’s
Duke of Edinburgh, and Dickson’s All the Year Round.
Perhaps the last is the best. Telegraph cannot be
surpassed for summer cultivation, bnt presuming
14 Young Gardener" wants to make up a bed at once,
he should go In for All the Year Round or Phenomenon.—

W. P.

You can have no better Cucumber than RolHs-
sou’a Telegraph. Two splendid Strawberries are Dr.
Hogg and President.—W. Harris, Barnstaple.

11139.—Timber trees with effective foliage.—
Certainly the best timber trees you could plant would be
Purple and Common Beech, as these retain their leaves
throng!} autumn and a great part of winter, and are also
very pretty during summer. The Scarlet Oak is pretty,
but a slow grower, and sheds its foliage early.—W.
PHILLIPS, Hoole, Chester.

11114.—Soil for perennials.—If " T. L.” will add
ashpit manure to his stiff clayey loam, and will incor¬
porate the same, he will find it the very best way of
improving the Boil and fitting it for the growth of most
hardy perennials, but deep cultivation Is of the utmost
importance, also good drainage; fork over twice.—

W. Phillips, Hoole, Chester .

11150.— Hops as manure.—The spent hops from
breweries are often used as manure, and do well for
Potatoes and other kitchen garden crops. They are also
scattered amongst young Turnip and Cabbage plants to
destroy the Turnip-fly. They are of little or no use in a
greenhouse.—J. T). E.

-You may use these in the kitchen garden In the

same way you would manure. I have Been them placed
between rows of Cabbage plants with the best results.—
Harris, Barnstaple.

11188.—Variegated Ferna—Pteris tricolor is one
of the most beautiful of this class; Pteris cretica alba
lineata is also distinct and handsome ; Lastnea Goldieana
slightly variegated and ia a handsome hardy Fern.—

D. E.

11143. — Flowering the Eucharis. — You havo
done quite right so far. Keep the plant comparatively,
dry until the second week in April, water it freely then,
and place it la a temperature of 6<r to 66°; it will doubt-
flower in May with that treatment.—J. D. E.

11156 —Grass for shady place.—Poa nemoralis is
_ grass that is found naturally iu shady places. Sow at
onoe in flue soil, and keep well rolled and cut often, and
you will have a good close sward where few of tho other
grasses will exist.—W. HARRIS, Barnstaple.

11067 — Worms in manure.—A mixture of mustard
and water used hot will kill tho worms in the manure.—

W * IhU^CDCtTV M JIT

11006 .—Capo < :k50«€»De’*ry prosorvea—TftU may

be had of 8. Mart and Co., 278, Oxford Street, London.

URBANA~CHAk;PAI CjN

Digitized by

Gck igle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vul. Y r I.

MARCH 22, 1884.

No. 263.

TRBBS AND SHRUBS.

TRANSPLANTING TREKS AND SHRUBS.
Ik ail kinds of ordinary soils generally the
beat time for planting is considered to be, for
deciduous trees and shrubs, the autumn and
early spring months, and for evergreen trees and
shrubs autumn, winter, and spring. Hammer
planting is not carried out to any great extent,
neither is it considered judicious. No doubt
there are many potent reasons why this should
be so. One has an objection to see the pleasure
grounds in a state of confusion consequent upon
planting operations at that time of the year; there
is also the liability of the roots becoming dried
in transit, as, for instance, from a nursery,
and the risk attendant upon delay, the scarcity
of water, Ac.; with care, however, these are
preventable causes. Let us first consider the
question of

SEA80N.

1 am of opinion that in some soils transplai.t-
ing may be done successfully throughout the
whole year; in others autumn, winter, and
spring cue the beet periods ; whilst in the sum¬
mer months and in certain soils the operation is
more successful than at any other season of the
year. The soils in which transplanting may be
successfully carried on at all times of the year
are those which are black, rich, and friable, and
rich deep mellow loams. Those which are pre¬
ferable for autumn, winter, and spring planting
are those which are warm, light, gravelly, sandy,
and well drained, whilst in heavy wet clay the
maximum of success will be attained in summer.
This will, on reflection, I think, appear to be
perfectly reasonable and natural, the desidera¬
tum being to maintain the roots in a healthy
condition, heal up the mutilated parts, and in¬
duce new growth as soon as possible. The con¬
ditions of soils and seasons mentioned above
will materially tend to produce such results.
The following are the results of experience of
planting in various soils and at different periods
of the year. Conifers, including Abies canaden¬
sis, Douglasi, Cedrup, Deodara, Libani atlan-
tica, Cupressus Lawsoniana, Picea nobilis,
Nordmanniana, Pinus austriaoa, sylvestris, and
Thujas, in rich black soils and deep mellow
loams.—Summer, 2 per cent, died; autumn win¬
ter, and spring, 1 per cent. died. In sandy,
gravelly, and light warm Boils.—Summer, 28 per
cent, died; autumn, winter, and spring, 6 per
cent died. In heavy and wet clays—Summer,
none died; autumn, winter, and spring, 30 per
cent. died. It will thus be seen that in heavy
and wet clays summer planting was highly suc¬
cessful. The trees transplanted were from 8 feet
to 20 feet high, and many had made growth
from 4 inches to 12 inches in length; everyone
was moved with balls of earth varying from a
quarter to one ton in weight; an average of a
cartload of good soil was put round the roots of
each, all were mulched with well rotted manure,
and an occasional soaking of water given.
These trees showed no signs of suffering in
either colour or quantity of foliage, indeed
many benefited by the change, and all are in a
mo8t promising condition. The reason of success
is perhaps not far to seek, the earth being in a
warm and moist state, and therefore in a con¬
dition most conducive to root formation and
nourishment; dull, warm weather is best suited
to the operation.

Planting in Winter
was a partial failure, and should in ail cases be
avoided wherever it is desired to move valuable
trees; in this instance the soil being cold and
wet was therefore not suited to produce new
roots. The feeding points rotted, the roots
decayed, aDd no new roots were formed; the
whole became attacked as by a contagions
disease, and total inaction took place. This
was followed by the stems becoming affected,
rendering the sap putrid, in which state trees
are soon preyed upon by insects, causing certain
death. The cause of all this is coldness, exces¬
sive moisture, the imperviousness of the soil to
Alt and the dormant state-of the sap, which
soon becomes incapable df perform in* dtp furic-
llpns. Well drained, sanoy, fthvbRy, afcplJfeht

soils are best suited for planting ih autumn,
winter, and spring, for the very good reason
that they are warmer, better aerated, and not
liable to become excessively dry as in summer.
These soils contain but a small percentage of
vegetable constituents, and without the aid of
moisture in moderate quantities are incapable
of producing the necessary nourishment for the
formation of rootlets, and consequently are
unable to maintain the trees in a growing con¬
dition. In summer these soils are too hot and
dry for the purpose of transplanting; the roots
wither and perish, the foliage becomes dete¬
riorated, a general disorganisation takes place,
and even should the trees live, they take some
years before they regain their normal condition
and become thoroughly re-established. Soils of
this description are unsuitable to transplant
from, the roots being generally less fibrous, and
by reason of their want of adhesiveness it is
almost impossible to maintain a ball of earth
intact, which is so necessary for success in
transplanting trees. I am acquainted with no
soils where mulching is so absolutely essential
as with these; indeed, periodical mulching is
necessary in order to maintain healthy trees
and the foliage of good colour; mulching will
likewise maintain the necessary degree of mois¬
ture. In rich black soils and mellow loams
the operation of transplanting may be carried
on with success at all times of the year, assum¬
ing that ordinary care is taken in respect of
drainage in winter and watering in summer; at
other times the work may be done with an im¬
punity almost amounting to carelessness. These
soils contain the necessary constituents in the
largest quantity and best possible condition for
the food of trees; they are never excessively
hot or dry, cold, or wet, and are therefore prac¬
tically in exactly the right condition—that
which is most favourable for the formation of
healthy roots aDd the supply of the best food
necessary for their maintenance. Trees move
well from such soils ; the roots are usually more
fibrous, and the earth clings tightly to them.
Mulching is not absolutely necessary ; neverthe¬
less trees are benefited thereby, especially the
first year after transplanting.

Shrubs.

With regard to shrubs, whether evergreen or
deciduous, the difficulty is by no means so great
as the transplanting of trees, except when they
are very large, in which case the above remarks
apply equally to them. The majority of shrubs
are very fibrous rooted, and, therefore, in the
best possible condition for transplantation,
being much more tenacious of life than trees.
Many of them, too, have a tendency to make
new roots from the stem in the manner of cut¬
tings. The necessity for large quantities of sap
is not so great as with trees; there is no spe¬
cially leading shoot to maintain, without which
trees often lose their conformation, and are
sometimes useless for the purpose for which they
are intended, as, for instance, let us suppose an
Araucaria without a leader. There are, how¬
ever, several considerations which are •necessary
to be taken into account in transplanting shrubs.
Thus, it would not be wise to transplant such
shrubs as Rhododendrons and others of that
class, which form their flower-buds at the point
of a young shoot, until they are perfectly
ripened. Such a course would, in all probability,
result in sacrificing the bloom for the ensuing
season. Neither would it be judicious to move
during the summer such shrubs as have tender
and attenuated foliage, nor those with long,
flexible, herbaceous shoots of very weak texture.
We have instances of these in the sometimes
tender shoots of the Portugal Laurel and the
long ones of the Tamarix. The ordinary result of
moving these in summer is that their shoots
become blackened by heat, and, as a consequence,
are unsightly. Most of those shrubs with strong
ligneous shoots and coriaceous foliage move well
at this season. Instances of these are some of the
Privets, Berberis, and Holly. Shrubs of this class
which generally ripen their foliage quickly and
well and become, for the time being, deciduous, are
sure to succeed, throwing out strong shoots in the
autumn. This is especially the case with the

Holly, which often loses the whole of its foliage—
a sure sign that new roots are being formed and
that the new growth will be strong and healthy.
Another important confederation is the time of
flowering. Many shrubs which flower in early
spring may be safely moved in summer, whilst it
is better to move those which flower late in
spring, summer, or autumn in winter and spring,
that is, move as soon as reasonable after flower¬
ing, and as long before the next blooming period
as practical; by so doing the plants become
thoroughly established before the strain of the
flowering season comes upon them, and, be it
remembered, this will very much enhance the
blooms. Amongst the first may be mentioned
Daphnes, Ledums, Forsythias, ltibes, and Ber¬
beris. The latter class are so numerous as not
to need mentioning. Shrubs are sometimes
“ shy ” of flowering; these should be moved at
once without considering the season in order to
induce them to make totally new growth. Under
these circumstances they seldom fail to produce
flowers. The causes which operate in prevent¬
ing shrubs from flowering are that they may bo
sod-bound, or even in generally well drained
soils they may have water at the roots, arising
from an under-current; their roots may have
decayed without, whilst those within may be
struggling for moisture and nourishment, in
which case they should be root pruned and
thoroughly shaken out before transplanting. A
cold clay under good soil will sometimes have
the same effect, the remedy for which is deep
trenching, lifting the shrubs, and cutting away
the lower roots.

Soils for Shrubs.

With respect to soils, shrubs, generally speak¬
ing, are not particular ; they will thrive in all
kinds provided they are open, free from stag¬
nant water, and have a moderate amount of
nourishment in them. True, it is that some
varieties grow luxuriantly in light and sandy
soils, whilst others thrive best in peat and black
vegetable deposits, and so forth. This, how¬
ever, does not in a general sense apply to the
general collection. Types of the first are the
smaller Conifers, Heaths, and Hollies, whilst of
the second the types are Rhododendrons, Kal-
mias, and nearly all American plants; many of
these will also do well in rich loams. Hot,
dry soils are the most injurious, by reason of
the surface roots which many vigorous shrubs
make becoming exposed to heat and drought.
This is especially the case with Laurels, Lilacs,
Privets, and Spiraeas, as anyone who ha9 used
the fork or spade amongst shrubberies cannot
have failed to have noticed—a most reprehen¬
sible practice, by the way, except in the vicinity
of populous towns, where the surface of the
ground becomes coated with a substance of an
oily, sooty nature impervious to air. Liberal
mulchings and an occasional soaking of water
are the best remedies for such soils; dressing
with road drift and vegetable soil is alsd ex¬
tremely useful. Cold, wet, and heavy clays are
most benefited by deep draining and trenching.
Of all soils these are perhaps the most unpro-
pitious and troublesome. For complete success
constant dressings of light and gritty materials
are absolutely necessary. No opportunity should
be lost, which in country places is frequent
enough, of gathering up all the scrapings and
cuttings from the public roads, first giving a
dressing round the plants, and ultimately cover¬
ing the whole of the ground. In such soils
deep planting should be specially avoided, air
being essential for the roots to perform their
functions properly. Occasional mulching is
also beneficial, and should invariably be put on
in summer, when the surface of the ground is
liable to become hard. Winter is not so suit¬
able for the purpose, as the drier and more airy
the surface is the better for the plants.

Rich Black Soils and Mellow Loams
are best for all ordinary purposes, and with the
addition of peat and sand may be made suitable
for every known tree or shrub. Planting in such
soils is most simple, as the most careless planter
will generally meet with success. Should sells
of this cidfccriplicn boooms impoverished from
any cause, for instance, the rapid and luxu-

24

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[M ihcb 2 e 2 , 1884

riant growth of shrubs, or, in consequence of
their vicinity to large trees and hedgerows, the
most desirable kinds of surface dressing are well-
rotted manure and leaf^mould. In these soils
the least disturbance at the roots the better it
will be for the shrubs. If the ground is properly
trenched before planting, no further care will
be necessary in the majority of instances for
very many years, except the keeping down of
weeds for the first two or three years. Although
the practice of pruning shrubs indiscriminately
is most injudicious and destroys their distinc¬
tive characters and individuality, in rich
soils the pruning knife may in some cases be
freely used ; this would be the case with shrubs
which are desired to produce the maximum
quantity of flowers, and which would produce an
abundance of foliage only unless they were
pruned and thinned out. Overcrowding in rich
soils should be especially avoided, being both
injurious and unnecessary. Planting of nursery
stuff should be done as expeditiously as pos¬
sible after being received, and the same rule
applies when transplanting. The practice of
laying in by the heels, as it is termed, and al¬
lowing trees and shrubs to remain so for any
length of time is not advisable, the effect being
that they are compelled to make new roots a
second time when once would be more advan¬
tageous to them. It is not desirable to plant
two or three shrubs together in order to make a
mass at once, one well developed shrub being
in every way better than two or more startlings.

E. D.

VEGETABLES.

CULTURE OF PARSLEY.

11166.—Scarcely any cultivated plant is more
grateful for generous treatment than Pars¬
ley, yet few suffer more from neglect and bad
management, and this often, too, from profes¬
sional gardeners. I once saw on a gentleman’s
establishment a narrow strip of border that had
been sown with Parsley seed, without manure,
between espalier and pyramidal fruit trees and
the garden path, where the same kind of plant
had been several years previously in occupation.
The young plants had not been thinned out.
The whole stock had been scarcely large enough
for the summer supply, so that before autumn
was far advanced the supply began to run short,
and before the winter had passed there was
nearly a complete breakdown. When spring
arrived, and the plants should have been grow¬
ing, every leaf, almost as fast as it was formed,
was stripped off, so that there was no chance for
the plants to recover themselves. Now, to ob¬
tain a good supply of Parsley through the whole
of the winter, the mode of procedure must be
the reverse to that which I have just described.
An open plot should be selected, but it should
be protected from the northern and eastern
winter’s blast. This should be trenched, or at
least deeply dug, and liberally manured. The
seed should be sown the first week in June, so
that the plants may get large and strong before
winter sets in. When the seedlings are large
enough, they should be thinned out to at least
a foot apart each way. I should have stated
that, as the plants grow but .slowly in winter, a
much larger piece of land must be sown than
would be required for a summer’s supply. It
would be advisable to make a sowing in a pit or
frame for use when frost and snow is on the
ground ; or if four short stakes were driven into
the ground, and connected with crosspieces, so
as to be in readiness for laying boards, faggots,
or wattle hurdles across on the approach of hard
frost, the same end would be attained. A sow¬
ing should be made in July for late spring use.
Now is the time to sow for a summer supply.
Sometimes failure ensues, not from defective
cultivation, but because the young seedlings are
destroyed by vermin as soon as they appear; or,
as is often the case, as the seeds must not be
buried deep, and are a considerable time ger¬
minating, when dry weather sets in after sow¬
ing, the seeds perish. To guard against failure
from either of these causes, at the same time
the seeds are sown in the open ground some
should be sown in a box or pan, so that should
failure arise in the first instance, there would
be a supply of young seedlings that could be
potted into small pots. These young plants,
when ready, should' 13fe put out in the ground
where the seeds fai( 1 ^ |<^g^] m. -fcfe J is safer

to shift the young seedlings into small pots than
to prick them into boxes, because, when, in the
latter case, they are taken up with balls of
earth and put into the ground, the injury done
to the roots in the operation causes flagging, and
makes the plants very palatable to slugs. Nor is
the potting so formidable a matter as to some it
might appear. Old potting stuff or common
garden soil would do for the purpose, and a
man of ordinary quickness would pot off a
hundred plants in an hour.—L. C. K.

-Sow thinly at once and again at the

end of July for succession on land that has been
heavily manured for the previous crop, and
which should be deeply trenched. Sow in beds
broadcast when the ground is dry, and well tread
in. By doing so, some of the seeds will be in
the exact depth to germinate freely and make
nice healthy plants, which should be left when
thinning out, say 12 inches apart if large speci¬
mens are required. A slight dressing of soot
will be of service when plants are thinned,
which put on when damp. As your soil is light
in texture, well roll or tread, as I find Parsley
does well with me on light soil when ground
is so treated. Sutton’s Qiant Curled is a very
robust and well curled variety.—E. T. P., Horn -
grove.

-In preparing a Parsley bed, the soil

should be removed to the depth of 6 inches or
8 inches and filled in with stones, brick-rubbish,
and similar loose material; on the
top a good depth of rich soil should
be placed, which should be raised
above the level of the ground. Sow
the end of May seed of the most
early variety. If the weather con¬
tinues dry, water frequently until
the plants are up, which will be in
five or six weeks. When large
enough, thin them out to 4 inches
or 5 inches apart. Parsley when
well up requires very little water ;
the roots should be kept in a rather
dry state.—A. N.

-It is thought that Parsley

will grow anywhere, but I have
found that in some classes of soil
the roots are attacked by canker
of some kind. The main stem has
a rusty appearance, and many of
the fibrous roots decay. You should
work the ground to the depth of a
foot, giving it a good dressing of
rotten stable manure. Sow the
seeds at once. To make sure of
Parsley in winter, the leaves
must be cut off about the first
week in September; this will be
the cause of a sturdy late autumn growth, which
will stand best through the winter.—J. D. E.

- Sow Parsley at once, either in drills and

thin out, or in beds and plant out when ready a
foot each way. Plant during showery weather.
A. J. R.

Clubbing of Brussels Sprouts and

Kales.—Three years ago my Brussels Sprouts
were nearly a failure, but some plants which
had been accidentally left on the seed bed
were, though weak in the stalk, loaded with fine
firm Sprouts. This led me in 1882 to sow the
Sprouts in rows where they were to stand, but
not having room for all I planted out other rows
from the thinnings, and I found that the un¬
moved plants were far more productive than the
transplanted ones. I did the same in 1883, and
with the same result, and as this year the three
transplanted rows stood side by side with the
two unmoved ones, the contrast was very marked,
so that everyone who came into the garden
noticed it and asked the reason. When we re¬
cently took up the plants this became very evi¬
dent ; the roots which had not been moved were
quite healthy and fibrous ; those which had been
transplanted were nearly all more or less affected
with club. I expect to find the same as to
Broccolis and other Kales, but not having taken
them up I cannot speak so positively, but when
we cleared off the seed beds the plants were
quite sound. The explanation is, I think, easy.
Weakly plants are, we know, more liable to
disease than vigorous ones, and I suspect that
the moving of the roots and the breaking of the
tender fibrils so checks them as to throw them
open to insect attacks. If I cannot in future
make room to sow my Sprouts where they are

to stand, I intend to have them moved with the
trowel with as laige a ball of earth as possible.
Plants, however, which are grown without
moving are apt to grow weak in the stalks and
require sticks.—W. M. C., Clayton.

11200.— Sowing Cabbage and Cauli¬
flower.—These may be sown now to cut
next autumn. Sow thinly out in the open and
plan tout as soon as the plants are large enough —
the Cabbage about 18 inches row to row, and
15 inches in the row; the Broccoli 30 inches
, row to row, and 18 inches in the row. ForspriDg
cutting sow Cabbage first week in August, and
Cauliflower the last week of same month.
Cabbage can be planted out where they are to
remain, or can be pricked out if the ground is
not ready for them any time up to middle of
November, but the Cauliflowers must be pricked
out in beds as soon as large e-ough to handle,
and then replanted in cold frames in November,
and finally planted out in February or early in
March, if the weather is too severe in February.
—A. J. R.

Dwarf yellow Canadian Kidney

i Bean.—Foreign names: French , Haricot Jaune
du Canada; Oernian, Canada Zucker-Bohne.
This is a very good variety, hardy and produc¬
tive, but somewhat late, and well adapted for
market-garden culture in the open ground.
Stems rather vigorous, branching, 16 inches to
I 20 inches high, thickly covered with medium-

1 Ci&iite&A

Dwarf Yellow Canadian Kidney Bean.

sized flat leaves of a clear green colour. Flowers
lilac, pods very numerous, green at first, chang¬
ing to yellow, containing usually five ovoid
Beans a little smaller than those of the Haricot
de Prague, and of a deep yellow colour passing
into brown about the hilum. The dried Beans
are much esteemed. The pods to be tender
should be gathered before they are fully grown.
Closely resembling the yellow China Kidney
Bean, this variety is distinguished from it by
the deeper colour of the Beans, and by its
leaves being larger, less crowded together,
moderately crimped, and of a deeper green
colour.— lllmori?i's “Let Plantes Potagbres'.'

11165.— Raising Broocoli and Cucum¬
bers.—Sow the seeds of Broccoli in an open
position out-of-doors about the first week in
April. Sow thinly and plant them out when
about 5 inches or 6 inches high. You should
raise the Cucumbers in a hot-bed, and when the
plants are large enough plant them out in hand
glasses two plants in each. When they have
filled the glasses raise them up from the ground
on bricks laid on edge. The Cucumber vines
will run outside, and in this way you will get a
| supply of Cucumbers. The market growers
sow in the open ground, and the plants are pro¬
tected from winds by rows of rye sown about a
rod apart. In bad seasons the plants seldom
produce satisfactory crops.—J. D. E.

Batavian Endive.— I find this a most
useful salading for the spring, as it withstands
the winter well if not too large before the winter
sets in. I find the .best plan to provide for
spring use is' w so# in August and transplant in
I September, bo that the plants are only about
half grown by Christmas, and in mild winters

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

March 22, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

25

they keep on growing, and as soon as the days
begin to lengthen they grow into fine plants,
and by drawing the leaves together and placing
an inverted flower-pot over them, they quickly
make a fine head of beantifally blanched leaves
very acceptable for salading. A good supply of
Endive, Lettuce, Beetroot, and Mustard and
Cress is most acceptable in spring.—J. G., Hants.

11181.—Making a Seakale bed.— We

are now planting ours out 18 inches from plant
to plant. In heavy soil like ours it is necessary
to place some sand round the roots. The plants
do not grow high, and they must not be covered
in any way until next season, when the blanch¬
ing pots should be placed over them. If they
attempt to produce flowers during the summer,
they must be cut off.—J. D. E.

11170.—Mushrooms not growing.—It
would have been better if you had spawned
the bed when the heat was about 80° to 85°.
With a temperature of 55° in the house Mush¬
rooms should have appeared in five or six weeks.
Fat some straw on the bed to keep an equable
temperature, and with a temperature in the
house ranging from 55° to 60° you will soon
have mushrooms.—J. D. E.

- If “ C. S.” will water his Mushroom beds

with lake warm water, he will soon see his Mush¬
rooms. Some advise dissolving a little saltpetre
in the water.—A. J. R.

11152 .— Colory piping.— If you would bow your
C«lery In the open ground about the end of February
instead of in a frame, it would not run to seed.—J. D. E.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Bring on Pelargoniums and tuberous-rooted
Begonias in small sets, as they are likely to be
wanted, and push forward young seedlings of
the latter for blooming in the autumn or early
in the following spring. So useful and such
general favourites are these plants that space in
light airy pits should be devoted to their
caltore. Remove soft - wooded Heaths and
Kpacris as they go out of bloom; cut them back
and place them where they can be syringed, as
another year’s success depends upon vigorous,
well-ripened growths. If potting is necessary
this should receive attention as soon as they are
fairly on the move. With the many fine plants
that bloom in spring there should now be a
brilliant display. Endeavour to keep a cool
atmosphere during sunny days, and let down
the shadings early in the morning, otherwise the
Hewers will be of short duration. Lapigerias
that are infested with insects of any kind must
now be thoroughly .cleaned before their growth
is much advanced. Camellias planted out that
have finished flowering should receive a spong¬
ing or syringing, and the borders should be
top-dressed and replanted with Selaginellas.
Rbodanthes are charming plants both for sum¬
mer and autumn decoration; therefore sow some
at once in 4 -inch and 6-inch pots or in pans, and
when ready prick the young plants out into
pots, keeping them near the light and pinching
them at the third joint. Hard-wooded green¬
house plants of all descriptions, except Azaleas,
which are better moved later on, should im¬
mediately be potted. In all cases see that the
ball of roots of every plant which has to be
moved is thoroughly moistened beforehand;
this should be attended to the day^ previous to
rotting, so as to give time for the water to drain
Do not farther disturb the roots than by

removal of the drainage crocks from the
botom of each ball; ram the new soil with the
poting-stick until it is as close and solid as
tbe all of the plant; otherwise, when water is
giveL afterwards, it will pass off through the
new katerial, leaving the roots so dry that
death T an unhealthy condition is sure to
follow. AH plants, large and small, should be
placed arRciently low in the pot for it to hold
enough w», e r at one application to moisten the
•oil, as wh- e the watering of a plant has to be
done in twi^ three applications the whole of
the surface tone gets moistened.

Slower Garden.

Hardy cHmbjg Roses, Clematises, Virginian
Creepers, Wista aSf and other climbers will now
require attention to pruning, regulating, and
nailing, and any , a t need additional '*
to ward off pwasit j-» n d toromrjt§|r>ao

growth should be top-dressed and mulched.
Herbaceous plants may now be divided, re¬
gulated, and re-arranged; many kinds that are
just starting into growth, such as Pyrethrums,
Potentillas, Asters, Phloxes, and Delphiniums,
will bear division without the least apparent
check, and retain their vigour longer than when
left in the same position for years. When re¬
planting, take pains to arrange the plants, both
as to height of growth and colour of flowers, in
order that the tall growers do not overshadow
the dwarfer kinds. Surplus plants should have
a favourable site in the reserve garden, both for
filling up gaps and for furnishing cut flowers;
thus those in the flower garden need not be dis¬
turbed. When the arrangements are finished,
any vacant spaces there may be will come in
for the sowing or planting out of Sweet Peas,
Lupines, Mignonette, Stocks, Asters, Zinnias,
and other annuals, all of which add both to
the beauty and interest of such borders. The
dressing of all permanent beds of herbaceous
plants must be completed without delay. Any¬
one wishing to try Camellias out-of-doors should
now gradually harden off their plants and put
them out iu May; for wherever the Laurustinus
can be grown these plants may safely be planted
out permanently. Select a favourable site open
to the full sun, but sheltered from catting winds,
that are more destructive than frost, and deeply
cultivate the soil before planting them. It is
not advisable to over-stimulate growth by means
of rich manure, as success more depends on
moderate-sized, well-ripened wood; therefore
stagnant moisture at the root should be counter¬
acted by efficient drainage, whereby the soil will
be rendered warmer, and early growth will be en¬
couraged, which will have a good chance of get¬
ting well matured in average seasons.

Shrubbery.

The pruning of evergreens should be finished
at once. Shrubbery borders should be lightly
pointed over, taking care not to injure the roots
in the operation or to disturb any bulbous
plants that may be growing amongst the shrubs.
Isolated specimens of newly-planted trees, es¬
pecially if large, are much benefited by a few
shrubs being planted round them for a year or
two, to aot as a protection from wind, frost,
and drought; after the trees get established the
nurses may be removed. Prune, where neces¬
sary, Ivies on walls, and fasten any in danger
of falling away from them. Uncover Myrtles,
Magnolias, Clematises, and other half-hardy
plants on walls, and otherwise put them in order
for the Bummer. Plant and re-arrange flowering
deciduous shrubs, keeping in view ultimate
effect, and so dispose of the stronger-growing
varieties as not to overgrow the more delicate
kinds. Mulch all newly-planted trees with leaf-
soil, manure, or spent tan; top-dress Hollies,
Rhododendrons, and such plants-as may require
stimulating, with rotten manure and soil.

Lawns. —Where new lawns have to be formed
the preparation of the ground is of the greatest
importance, and, except this is attended to in
the first place, no after management is likely to
be so thoroughly productive of that verdant,
close, even, evergreen turf desirable. Unless
good firm turf can be secured, perfectly free
from coarse Grasses and weeds of every descrip¬
tion, it is best to sow with seeds adapted for the
formation of a permanent lawn, being particular
that the ground is made evenly solid. Lawns
that were top-dressed early in winter, and
such as are patchy, will be improved by
being sown with Grass seeds and White Dutch
Clover; afterwards rake and roll over the
ground. Finish turfing repairs and edge the
margins of walks. This is a good time, before
the ground becomes hard, to grub up Daisies,
Dandelions, &c. Sweep and roll the turf; the
rolling should be done the day previous to mow¬
ing, and lose no time in having the Grass out
with the machine, which will greatly improve
the appearance and texture of the turf. Lawns
are easily kept in good order by running the
mowing machine over them at regular intervals
of a week or ten days, when growth is active and
the weather mild, lengthening the intervals
later in the season and in times of drought.

Walks and paths of all kinds will require
weeding and rolling. Where good binding
gravel is used and kept well rolled, it gets so
firm and smooth that the seeds of weeds cannot
easily establish themselves ; and on such walks
hand-weeding only should be practised. But

where a loose material has to be employed
hoeing and raking afford the readiest means of
cleansing them. In walks under trees coal-
ashes make a clean dry walk. In such positions
gravel gets green and Moss-grown, owiDg to the
shade and drip from the trees.

Fruit.

Vines in late houses now breaking under the
influence of bright weather will require good
syringing two or three times a day, and the
inside borders will be the better for a covering
of some kind that will radiate atmospheric
moisture as the temperature rises. Strong young
rods may require bending down to a horizontal
position to ensure an even break, and when all
the buds are on the move they may be tied up
to the wires. Let the night temperature range
between 60° and 65°. Give a little air at 65°,
and encourage free growth by closing with
plenty of moisture when the house stands at
75°. In mid-season houses the greatest activity
will be necessary, as growth is very rapid. The
most tedious work is thinning, and on this
account it should be taken in hand as soon as
the free-setting kinds are out of flower. No rule
can be laid down for thinning Grapes, as the
different varieties of the same kind differ so
much in size of berry and structure of bunch.
When properly thinned, ripe Grapes should not
press each other out of form, neither should the
bunches open when <5ut and laid on the dish.
When the Grapes in the early house have
finished stoning, the borders will require a
liberal watering with warm liquid manure to
help them through the lastswelliDg. The paths
and surfaces may also be damped with it after
closing on fine afternoons up to the time the
berries begin to show signs of colour, when pure
water only must be used. Wage incessant war
with red spider, and destroy the small spinning
spiders which endeavour to gain a lodgment in
the bunches and injure the bloom before it is
properly set by travelling over the berries.

Vegetables.

If dry weather prevails, every exertion should
be made to hoe or stir the soil, operations which
will be certain destruction to thousands of weeds
that might otherwise be a trouble the whole
season, not to mention the cultural aid afforded
to the growth of the crops by the aeration of the
soil.

Peas of the wrinkled Marrow section may
now be sown. Plenty of space between the rows
is necessary, therefore in every case arrange for
the growth of some other crop between the rows
of Peas, which should never be nearer than 6 feet,
and the tallest growers further apart, the inter¬
vening spaces being cropped with either salad¬
ing or kinds of vegetables that will either
mature or be usable about the same time as
the Peas, in order that the ground may be all
cleared together, as, for instance, Radishes,
Lettuces, Spinach, early Potatoes, and even
Cauliflower.

Fbench Beans may now be sown on a
warm border—the middle of April will be suffi¬
ciently early to sow for general crops. Of all
the kinds for open air culture none excels
Canadian Wonder, and, being a robust grower,
the rows shonld be at least 2 feet apart. In good
soil this Bean grows so tall that it is necessary
to support it with small sticks.

Potatoes. —It will now be safe to plant
main crops of Potatoes; in light open soils they
will be most expeditiously planted with dibbers,
but drill planting is necessary in every case in
which the sets have been previously sprouted,
to prevent them from getting injured in the
operation.

Abpabagus and Seakale.— Give a final
“ pointing” or raking over to Asparagus plots ; a
good sprinkling of salt applied now will kill the
seedling weeds just appearing, and is also the
most suitable of all manures for the Asparagus.
Now is the season both for sowing and trans¬
planting; deep, high-manured land, and head
room for the plants, by planting from 30-in. to
36-in. apart, are essential to successful culture.
The seeds may be sown in drills 18-in. apart and
the seedlings thinned out to 1 foot in the row,
and in good ground they will make fine plants
for making permanent plots next year. Seakale
forcing being now ended, the ground should bo
at once cleared, heavily mumirud, and deeply
dog; new plsr.tatio*yi may be formed with cut¬
ting* made from those roots that wore lifted for

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

2(5

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[March 22, 1884.

forcing. Seed may also be sown, and in good
ground these are often superior to cutting?.

Rhubarb, from its great weight of produce,
quickly exhausts the soil, and it is undesirable
to let it stand too long without removal, as plants
that have been for some time undisturbed have
a greater disposition to produce flowering shoots,
which, even if cut out as soon as they make their
appearance, interfere with the growth of the
edible stalks ; but it is not a good plan to dis¬
turb the whole plantation at once, as this stops
the supply for a time. If some of the outside
crowns be severed from strong established stools
with a portion of root each, and planted now,
two or three together, and allowed to attain a
maximum of strength, not gathering irom them
this summer, they will bear strong stalks next
tpring; or roots that have been forced through
the winter planted now and permitted to regain
strength through the summer will succeed. As
Rhubarb is a deep-rooting, gross-feeding plant,
in all cases it should have rich, deep soil, and if
it be of a heavy, retentive nature, some
leaf-mould, wood-ashes, or sandy road drift, if
such can be procured, all mixed together, with
6 inches or 8 inches of good rotten manure,
should be mixed with it, trenching the ground
2 feet or 2£ feet deep, planting 6 feet apart each
way. A crop of Radishes, Spinach, or Lettuce
may be had off the ground between the rows
before the Rhubarb makes sufficient growth to
interfere with them. Existing beds of Rhubarb
will ba much benefited by heavy drenchings
with strong manure v^ter during the next two
months.

Carrots and Beet.— On soils that quickly dry
up the main crops of these may now be sown ;
in stiff loam the second week in April is suffi¬
ciently early, but on light soils, unless the
plants are a moderate size before drought sets
in, a partial failure is sure to be the result.
Both these crops revel in deep, loose soil that
his been well manured the previoas year, and
in ground of this character the drills ought not
to be less than 15 inches apart. Previous to draw¬
ing the drills break the ground down firmly,
either with rakes or forks ; the drills can then be
drawn more easily, and the soil, being fine, will
be more suitable for covering the seeds ; this we
prefer to do with oar fingers, and afterwards
run a light roller over the whole. Turnips are
sown in exactly the same way ; a good breadth
of them may now be got in without much danger
of their running to seed.

Herbs —The present is a good time to make
a fresh plantation of herb3 ; fork up the under.-
ground creeping roots, prepare a piece of ground
in size proportionate to the supply required
by digging and puttingin a fair amount of manure
forming it into a bed about 4 feet or 5 feet
wide; then take 1 inch or 2 inches of the soil off
the top, lay on the roots not too thickly, and
cover them with the soil that was removed,
leaving the surface smooth. Growth will soon
commence, but the produce will not be so soon
ready as from an established bed, consequently
it will be well to leave a portion of the old plan¬
tation undisturbed until that from the new one
is ready for use. Chamomile, Pennyroyal, and
similar herbs, where required, should be planted
in similar beds, putting in rows 1 foot apart small
pieces divided from the old plants. Sage is best
grown from cuttings struck in the latter part of
sammer, when they root freely ; such as were
struck at that time can now be planted in rows
in a bed.

ROSES.

Budding Roses.— It may be useful to
your amateur readers to know that Ro3e budding
can be done at any time under glass,providing you
have the bud and stock in using order. On the
26th of last March I budded Mareohal Niel upon
Fortune’s Yellow, and it has up to the present
time made a growth of 17 feet, besides side
shoots, and will shortly have several blooms
open. We have Arum or Calla aithiopica; the
leaf is white as well as the flower.— Edmund
Bland.

11156.— House for Roses. — The best
form of house to build for growing Roses in and
enjoying them afterwards is a span-roofed house,
about 16 feet wide, of any length, and, say,
8 feet in height to .eaves, having a centre bed
f^>r pl'ingiog Ro^s in puts C'|a|eplanted with

bush Roses, having a row of standards down the
centre. A 4-feet border should run all around,
and out of this should rise every 6 feet or so
pillars for Roses, such as Cheshunt Hybrid,
Gloire de Dijon, Devoniensis, Sc c. The beds
should be formed 2 feet deep of good rich com¬
post, consisting of two parts rich loam of a
strong nature, one part of cow or horse manure
thoroughly decomposed, and if to this a fair
quantity of half-inch bones be added, it will
then only require a top dressing of char¬
coal and guano just as the buds are swelling.
This last dressing will add richness to the
colours of the flowers.—W. Phillips, Uoole ,
Chester.

11198.— Rose cuttings —Keep them quite
cool with plenty of air, and if under a hand-
light or in a frame, draw off the frame in mild
days. Take care to keep them moist in dry
weather, and by June it will be seen if they are
rooted. When they begin to grow lift them
carefully and plant 6 inches apart in good soil,
mulching with manure, and they will makegood
growth, keeping them sprinkled and watered in
dry weather.— J. C. B.

11169. — Greenhouse Roses. — Young
newly-planted Roses should be well cut back
the firct year. If they have not grown too
much, better now to cut them back to within
3 inches or 4 inches of the base. The Helio¬
tropes should have the young growths stopped
to cause a more bushy growth. It is not desi¬
rable to cut them back unless they are old leggy
plants.—J. D. E.

FRUIT.

Figs out-of-doors.— Now that the season
for planting has arrived, the attention of those
interested might, with advantage, be directed to
the Fig as affording a source of profit not to be
overlooked by those living near sea-side resorts
and possessing nooks not so much exposed to
the cutting blasts of sea air. Not many miles
from here is a small watering place, where at a
house just in from the sea are two standard Fig
trees, which annually be ir for their owner heavy
crops of fine fruit, whnh fetch in the season
from Id. to 3d. each. They receive very little
attention in the way of pruning; for the soil in
which they are growing has become very firm,
consequently they make very little wood, lut
just sufficient to ripen ; and produce splendid
crops of fruit. The trunk of one of the trees is
as large round as a man’s body, which points to
their being of considerable age. I have Been
the Fig do well in several places along the
Bristol Channel; and I would advise those pos¬
sessing a garden to give it a trial by planting in
the most sunny spot at command, and making
the soil very firm about the roots. A position
out of the full force of the wind is desirable.—
W. Harris, Barnstaple.

Pippin AppleB. — What is the precise
meaning of the term “ Pippin ” applied to a
large class of Apples ? I find no explanation of
it in my gardening btoks, but had supposed it
to refer to some peculiarity in the pips. On
refering, however, to Johnson’s Dictionary, I
find that the word “pip ” was not in use in his
time as applied to seeds, the only meaning he
gives being (l) a disease among chickens and
(2) a spot on playing cards. Johnson is no
authority in horticultural matters, but he calls
“ Pippin ” “ a sharp Apple,” and gives as an
illustration the following quaint extract from
'* Mortimer's Husbandry,” the date of which he
does not give : —“ Pippins take their name from
the small spots or pips that usually appear on the
sides of them. Some are called Stone Pippins
from their obdurateness ; some Kentish Pippins,
because they agree with that soil; others French
Pippins, having their original from France,
which is the best bearer of any of these Pippins.
The Holland Pippin (was good Mr. Mortimer
thinkingof brown Holland?) and the Russet Pippin
from its russet hue; but such as are distin¬
guished by the names of grey and white Pippins
are of equal goodness, being generally of a
pleasant fruit and of good juice, but slender
bearers.”—W. M. G., Clapton.

Gape Gooseberries.— “Tomato” is right
in surmising that there are two plants which go
by this name. One of them, Malva capensis, is
of but little worth, but in days gone by, when
the choice of window plants was more restrictsd,

it was much grown by cottagers arid others. I;
forms a neat little bush if kept stopped in tie
early stages of growth, and flowers freely, li*
individual blooms being white, small, and ia
form like thoie of the common Mallow. So fir
as I am aware, the fruit is of no value, and the
name was given owing to a fancied resemblance
of the plant as a whole to the common boost-
berry. This plant has been in cultivation moie
than two centuries, as has also Physalis peru¬
viana, the plant now commonly called
Gooseberry ; but which, unlike Malva capem?,
does not come from the Cape at all, but from
South America, probably from the highlands of
Peru, and I can only conjecture that, bavic$
been introduced to the Cape probably by scds
merchant captain, it has been found to thrive
and fruit well there, and the fruit being large;?
used, the name of Cape Gooseberry has ihas
been given it. The French sure now devotiw
some attention to this plant, and are thinking et
growing it largely in the warmer parts of th&r
country for preserving. It is by no means a nev
plant, having been introduced about the midol?
of the eighteenth century, but does not of late
appear to have attracted much attention
“ Tomato ” states that it thrives from year to
year in the open. I was not aware that it is so
hardy; but your correspondent does not tu«-
tion locality, which should always be dote
when it is a question of wintering plants iron
warmer climes than our own in the open air l ,
can well imagine that it would do in fnll exp> ;
sure in such favoured parts as Cornwall, ibe j
Isle of Wight, Devonshire, Sec., but I doubt if
even here in Surrey it would succeed from year
to j ear without protection, and I do not think
that the average summers would be vara
enough to perfect the fruits ; but, in any ca>f,
the winter Cherry is an interesting plant, and
quite as worthy of a place under glass as many
things which commonly find a place there.-
Cornhill.

11192.— Pruning Peach trees.— To fora
pyramids from “ maiden ” trees, you must pro* ,
ceed in the following manner:—The cearre
stem is, or ought to be, furnished with maiy
lateral growths, strongest at the base. Shorten j
the main stem to half or two-thirds of it*
length. The shoots close to the top should be
cut back quite close to the stem, leaving them
gradually longer nntil the lower growths are
reached. The longest nearest the house ihooH
be 8 inches or 9 inches. To form bushes cut
the main stem through at a foot or 18 inches
above the junction of the bud with the stock,
and cut the laterals back to within two bud*.-
J. D. E.

Removing old putty.— To those whopo-f*
ess greenhouses near a thoroughfare, or in such &
position that frequent breakages take place, H i*
a matter of extreme annoyance to have to call
the glazier so often into requisition. Besides,
glaziers’ bills in such cases are a decided con¬
sideration. Very many of our readers from both
causes prefer to do these slight repairs them
selves, but it is not easy, even when the glass u
bought and cut to size, to remove the old hard
putty. It may be a useful hint to many to say
that old putty may be rendered sufficiently soft
for easy removal by passing a heated iron over it;
say a soldering-iron, or anything of a like form.
—C. T.

How I treat slugs.— Slugs have beef
ery troublesome this last year on the sou»
oast. I have tried many ways of diminish:#
ae numbers, and have fairly succeeded; t
ome remain, and do damage to Lettuces, t* 1
avourite food. I got from Paris some ilD 8
raps, about six at Is. each, not includip
[age, and caught great numbers, with lllu
orter at bottom. They must be kep
ut I have no doubt that glass preser* J* r# “
ny earthenware jars with highly 1 '
ides, would answer. I have tried Fp
j deadly to slugs, also lime, soot,/ 1 * 1 ® sl l J
ut after rain they become use* 8 - A
mall heaps of rubbish or mf 111 ® .

aany, and if the heaps are turi/ ove !
aorning a good many slugs can/ cau 8 bt :
he best of all was taking ov a P° ll ^“:
amp, and throwing the ligh/ n M y Le “
teds an hour after dusk ; gA? umDerS ,L g
filled. The slugs are fond** M " r0 " ’

’ucumbers, Scarlet Runn?» Stra

iee, and except Lettuce,# or m

JRBANA-CHAMP/lGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

27

March 22 , 1884 .]

: plant*. The plan I have now adopted is
s. Make a Lettuce bed 3 feet by 6 feet, and
.ke a small trench an inch or two deep all
md, till in with small pieces of coke, size
a walnut or less, and I think no slug can get
sr the coke; it has such sharp edges. A
tie gas lime or salt put at the bottom of the
nch will be a great help, throw a little salt
er the Lettuce-bed a few days before sowing,
kill any slugs that may lurk in the bed. The
ke can be put round any plants or rows of
;ans and Peas, and even Strawberries. The
vantage of the coke is, that the rain does not
ssolve it, and it is inexpensive. I have tried
bat only since winter commenced, and can-
it well testify to its certainty of keeping off
ugs, bat I shall try it extensively this summer.
As Enemy to Slugs.

ten. Some clumpi noticed the other day peep¬
ing up through a tangle of brown and
withered Fern leaves, were remarkably pretty
in a modest little forecourt garden, yet how
seldom, comparatively, are they to be found
except in the gardens of true plant lovers. The
yellow flowered American species (E. ameri-
canum) is quite equal in beauty to those above
mentioned, but it does not bloom so freely. It
grows naturally in shady and rather damp
places in woods, and a breadth, many yards in
extent, of its leaves marbled with brown, is in
itself a beautiful sight, and one which I have
many times seen in its native habitats, but even
there its flowers are sparse. The same complaint
is brought against this species when gTown in
English gardens, but since the tubers here are
not thickly matted together, allowing little room

acquire a biennial character which should be
borne in mind. It ia also somewhat capricious
—in some seasons doing remarkably well under
a certain system of culture, and again failing
entirely ; but when successful, it is so distinct
and beautiful, that it is quite worth risking the
trouble of raising it year by year. The plant is
different, in all respects, from Chelone (Pentste-
mon) barbata and C. Torreyi, and is much finer.
The deeply glaucous foliage somewhat resembles
that of the narrow-leaved Red Valerian (Cen-
tranthus angustifolius), and the connate tracts
of the stem, forming little cups below the
flower stalks whish collect the dew, give this
species a peculiar character of its own. The
singular tint of the flowers, which is neither
scarlet nor pink, but a blending of the two, is
also remarkably attractive, bo that it rarely fails

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

A PRETTY CARPETING PLANT.

(TIABELLA CORDIFOLIA).

HIS elegant little plant used to pass for a
iriosity generally, and we did not think much
.' it till we happened to see a sparkling bunch
f it in the gardens at Munste&d. There the
Tect of its little, graceful, straight shoots and
ell-formed leaves was excellent, as it grew on
broken, rocky bank. Being so good in form,
) free in its spikes of bloom, and so easily
rown and increased, there is something in the
l&nt likely to assist, in more ways than one,
isteful gardeners who are seeking interesting
ad pretty plants for quiet corners and for
carpets." It is easy to imagine various
rcamstances in which its delicate growth would
b Very welcome, either alone or beneath a plant
f bolder growth. It is more frequently, but we
eliere erroneously, called Mitella diphylla.

Plants under trees.— There are plenty of
l&nts which will do well in the shade of trees
hich are leafless in winter. The ground should
rat be thoroughly prepared in as dose imita-
on as possible to the soil of a real wood.
* here Uaf-mould cannot be had, turf chopped
p in small pieces and mixed with sandy peat
nd ch&rringB from a smother, containing plenty
f half burnt twigs and prunings, will make a fair
ubstitute, but all withered leaves should be
wept up and rotted into powder to dress the
lanta with each winter. Ferns will do very
ell, and with them may be associated Solo-
ion’s Seal, the Day Lilies, Dielytra spectabilis,
pirrca japonica, Spiraea Aruncus, Foxgloves,
German Iris, and Columbines will do out of the
rip of the trees. Our two native Honeysuckles
nil run up trees and spread their blooming
'ranches through their tops. Anemone japonica
nil answer in the sunnier spots, and Chrysan-
hetnums might be tried for the same positions.
If dwarfer plants, there are the American Wood
ilies, American Cowslips, Dog’s-tooth Violets,
ircissos, Wood Violets, Scillas, Anemone ne
norosa and its varieties, Christmas Roses, and
lepaticas; and in the more sunny parts may be
lanted Primroses (single and double), Auri-
alas, Polyanthuses, Campanula pulla and C.
ramila. Primula Sieboldi and P. rosea, Mer¬
cia rirginica. Anemone fulgens, Myosotis
azorica, and Tbalictrum anemcnoides. Spread¬
ing: planks: Lily of the Valley, Vinca major and
V. minor, Creeping Jenny.—J.

Dogs-tooth Violets.— Amongst the many
early flowers which are brave enough to face the
•pring frosts and cutting March winds, none are
acre beautiful, both in foliage and flower, than the
V.flerent varieties of Dogs-tooth Violet (Erythro-
aiam Dens-canis.) Why a dainty L’ly-like flower
tucb as this is, should be called a Violet, it is
Wdtos&y, and it is misleading as well; but
nc one who sees a dump of its beautiful brown
mottled leaves, contrasting with its rosy-purple
t pure white flowers, wide open in the sunshine
o! a bright March morning, will feel disposed to
parrel with its name, inappropriate though it
^ There are smaller and larger flowered
•xrieties, and these latter, which were sent to me
years ago by the late Rev. J. G. Nelson,
j-l called by him grandiflora, excel the typical
* r ® in size and beauty. They may be grown in
J 6 ? garden without the slightest difficulty, so
the tubers are not ruthlessly dug up
ccnxsg their long period of resL..wljen they dis-r
altoget^j j^d. jure Apt |ba fcrafl

TtarelU cordlfolla. A pretty hardy plant for carpeting rock work, ifrc.

for development, as they are in American woods,
it is probable that they only need to be strongly
established and occasionally divided to do well,
and when they can be induoed to flower, are
very distinct and beautifal. In the better
known kinds above mentioned, every full grown
tuber prodaces a flower, apparently, without fail.
—K. L D.

Pentstemon Miirrayanus.— I am glad
to be able to “ certify,’’ according to Mr. Alex¬
ander Sweet’s desire, “as to the existence” of
this fine species, which has been a favourite
plant of mine during the last ten or twelve
years. I have raised and flowered it again and
again from true seeds obtained from Mr.
Thompson, of Ipswich, who has .ntrodooed most,
if not all, of the species of Pentstemon grown in
our English gardens. P. Murray an us is a native
of Texas, and, like some others of the genus, can
scarcely be classed with perennials. At any
rate, many species are in the habit of blooming
themselves to death, and, therefore, practically

to win some admiring remark from the visitor
who chances to see it in perfection. I have
never known this Pentstemon to survive a winter
in the open border, even io a high and dry soil,
and have always taken care to give some plants
the benefit of shelter in a cold greenhouse or
frame. It auswers best treated as a biennial,

&9 its flower Bpikes are then finer and more
handsome; but when sown very early, it will
even bloom the same season. If seed can be
obtained, it should be sown as soon as ripe, and
the young plants will then be strong enough to
bloom finely the following autumn, but I have
never been able to save seed of my own grow¬
ing, and in oonsequence prefer not to hurry the
plants, but to wait patiently for bloom till the
second year. P. Murrayanus makes a good pot
plant when generously treated, and is one of
tho?e interesting subjects which a true gardener
delights in, but which is too troublesome for the
half-hearted. I have noticed several times in
ungenial seasons that this Pentstemon is attacked^"!"

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

28

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[March 22, 1884,

by a disease resembling the “ spot ” found in
Lilies, from which there seems to be no hope of
recovery, and which is probably owing to a lack
of summer heat. Another Pentstemon, seldom seen
but well worth growing, is the beautiful P.
Cobsea. This is also of a biennial nature, and
rather delicate in constitution like the last. Its
very large white flowers, shaded with lilac or
purple, are quite distinct from those of any other
species, and it may also be distinguished by the
glutinous character of its downy pubescence,
which, unfortunately, is apt to attract and to
capture small insects, at times greatly to its
detriment. Most Pentstemons are freely in*
creased by cuttings, but though I have occa¬
sionally succeeded in striking P. Murrayanus, it
does not in my experience grow readily by this
means, and both species are mere easily propa¬
gated by seed, and both require the same cul¬
tural treatment of being protected in pots during
the winter and planted out in the spring, when
all danger of frost and cold winds, which are
particularly injurious to them, is past. Now
that the hybrid Pentstemons are so much in
favour, the different species are not grown as
much as they should be, and those who wish to
make acquaintance with the rarer and more dis¬
tinct kinds, such as the above named, and others,
for example P. Palmeri, P. heterophyllus, P.
ovatus, &c .would do well to consult Mr. Thomp¬
son’s catalogue, which is always full of interest
for gardeners of an enterprising turn of mind.
—K. L. D.

Double Primroses. — During the last
fortnight, visitors to Mr. Paul’s nurseries have
had the opportunity of seeing beds of double
Primroses in bloom, both in the private part of
the grounds at Cheshunt, and also in the nursery
especially devoted to herbaceous plants at
Broxbourne; and it will interest all lovers of
these good old-fashioned flowers to know that
he is making a speciality of them. All do not
find double Primroses easy to grow or to keep;
but here the secret of their successful culture
has been found out, and may be learnt both by
example and precept. A somewhat stiff, reten¬
tive soil, partial shade, and plenty of moisture,
especially during summer, seem to be chief
points to which attention should be directed.
Besides the beautiful old varieties of double
Lilac, white and sulphur, there are to be found
here the scarce double crimson and only less
scarce double purple and deep yellow, which are
now at home in but very few private gardens.
Two charming new species, P. platypetala fl. pi.,
of a deep rosy purple, and P. Crousi, dark lilac,
which Mr. Paul regards as one of the finest of
all the varieties, may now be seen in strong
young clumps, full of bloom, which will remain
in beauty for some time to come. To complete
the series there should have been the old and
somewhat uncommon chocolate-coloured variety
with an edge flecked with gold, which came to
me a year or so since from a Somersetshire
garden ; and also another mentioned in 1882 in
the pages of the Garden , and described as being
•• very double, of medium size, and in colour a
lightish brown, nearly coffee coloured, with a
distinctly pencilled edge of golden yellow,’’ and
known formerly as Primula tartarica. These
will probably find their way in time to Mr.
Paul’s already rich collection. Double flowers,
as a rule, do not rank so highly as single ones
in the estimation of those possessing a culti¬
vated taste and an artistic eye; but without
leaving for a moment our allegiance to single
Primroses, we may be permitted to find an old
world charm about the double varieties which
our forefathers loved and cultivated that will
never lose its freshness. Grown as I have
seen them in a tiny cottage garden over-hang¬
ing the banks of a stream, with flowers nearly
as large as a crown piece, double Primroses
would command the admiration of the most
fastidious.—K. L. D.

OhionodoxaLuoillfiB .—I quite agree with
"K. L. D.” about the beauty of this bulb, having
grown it four years, but there is another reason
for its comparative scarcity which he does not
seem aware of. When I first ordered it 1 chose
the cheapest—4s. 6d. a dozen—and Messrs. Barr
kindly warned me I should be disappointed if I
only had those, so I ordered twelve of the
dearest—much larger bulbs—and the difference
in size, colour, and number of flowers was most
remarkable. I should certainly have given it up
as not half so as a sdlla^hjad ,.I only tried

the cheap bulbs. It does not answer well in
pots, and it does best in a stiff soil.—A. B. T.,

East Anglia,

Peeonies not flowering— Unless the
plants when bought are seen in flower, it is im
possible to answer for the time they will take
before flowering. I purchased some of Messrs.
Barr. One flowered the first year, two the
second, the third has not flowered yet. Another
plant was seven years before flowering, and other
clumps have been blooming for fifteen years,
which looks as if it were long in coming to
maturity and then very lasting.—A. B. T.,
East Anglia.

11185.— Christmas Roses— These may be
moved anytime between nowand May,but the
sooner the better. Good loam enriched with
rotten dung is the best soil, but they are not at
all particular in this respect, doing worst in clay
or soils so light and porous that they burn
in summer. If the natural soil is very light, add
good loam and plenty of manure; if heavy and
close, 8and, wood ashes, leaf-soil or decayed gar¬
den refuse, anything indeed which may render
it more open and free for the roots to work in.
The best situation is where the plants get shelter
from rough easterly and northerly winds, as one
gTeat beauty of the Christmas Rose is its persis¬
tent elegantly divided foliage, which seems pecu¬
liarly susceptible to cold drying winds; and
when the leaves turn brown or are disfigured
half the beauty of the plant is gone, and there is
a sensible diminution in the size of the flowers.
Wherever the Christmas Rose is planted it should
remain undisturbed, as its true worth is only
apparent after becoming well established, when
each clump will throw some fifty or more
blooms, which, if protected with a handlight
from November, leaving a little air on constantly,
will come large and very pure ; indeed it is only
in exceptionally fine winters that the blooms
come good unprotected.—J. C. B.

- We have a fine plant which has stood in

the same position for fifteen years under a
Portugal Laurel, and has flowered abundantly;
soil good, with a silt subsoil. I should say that
now the plants have gone out of flower is the
best time to move them, but when once planted
do not disturb the plant, it injures their flower¬
ing. Choose the pure white kind with green
centre—J. H. C.

-They are now starting to grow, and may

be planted anywhere in rich deep garden soil.
Plant at once—J. D. E.

11 184— Gladioli from seeds— If you will
sow the seeds of G. gandavensis thinly in 7-inch
pots about the first week in April, and plunge
the pots in a gentle hotbed, the plants will ap¬
pear in about two weeks. As they increase in
strength, admit more air than at first, until by
the end of May they may be placed in a cold
frame. About the end of October the young
plants will have completed their growth, when
water must be entirely withheld. Turn the bulbs
out in November; they will be from the size of
Peas to that of an ordinary Filbert. They
should be kept in dry sand and be planted out
early in March. Most of them will produce
strong flowering spikes the same season. I have
had no experience in raising G. hrenchleyensis
from seeds ; it is scarcely necessary to do so, as
the bulbs are so cheap— J. Douglas.

-If the seed is sown early in spring, in

heat, the bulbs will flower the third year, and
many of them in the second year from Bowing,
but if sown later in a cold frame they will be a
year later coming to blooming size. Much how¬
ever, depends on culture, as generous treatment
will forward them considerably. The best way
is to sow at once on a mild hotbed, if possible,
as the seed then germinates more readily, or in
a warm house. When the young plants appear
keep them near the glass until they have developed
a leaf, and then remove them to a cold frame,
growing them in a sunny situation in the open
air from the middle of June. When the foliage
dies off store them in paper bags, or in dry sand
in a cool place, and the following year plant
them in the open ground in April some 3-inches
apart. Stir the soil well before planting, adding
plenty of rotten dung, and when the plants are
well through, mulch with dung, water in dry
weather, and keep free from weeds, taking them
up in November.—J.C. B.

11167. — Chrysanthemums after
flowering.—It would be better to plant out tho

three plants in your garden Thin out all tty
stems but five or six. Some of them may bt
putin as cuttings, as young plants are Uua
than old ones. Early in October lift vo*
Chrysanthemums with good masses of roots, sat
plant them again in the boxes. In the meat-
time you could fill the boxes with any soiubK
plants—Scarlet Geraniums, Calceolarias, Lobsj
lias, or, indeed, any of the plants termed bed::q
plants.—J. D. E.

A cheap and effective method of

raising seedlings.—It may be of some
readers of Gardening to know that I have be*
successful in raising seedlings in the follow!^
manner, viz.: Having a oold greenhouse aza
wishing to get my seeds up early, I obtain i
zinc tray about 8 feet by 2 feet, and 2 ineba
deep. This I placed upon four legs driven iai
the earth floor of my house, and having plactyl
about an inch of sand in it, I placed my seed pin
and pots,containing Lobelia, Stocks, &c., and sonf
Hyacinths in pots, on the tray, and placed ny
duplex burner paraffin lamp underneath, leaoj
a space of a few inches between the top of tb
chimney and the tray. I raised the Stocks in $
week, and have three fine pans of Lobelia, whiol
came up in about ten days. The lamp nerf
only be turned up a little, and as mine will cob*
tain half-gallon of paraffin oil, I find by keepisg
the flame rather low I get a nice gentle Letf
and the oil lasts about four days, at a cost of
4d. I am trying to raise some Telegraph Cccna-
ber seeds by the same means, and hope to be
as successful with them—H. D.

Lawn weeds —During the last thirty yea
I have tried every mode of eradicating tins
suggested by every published correspondent*
and, taking the result and cost of time into ec*
sideration, I have come to the conclusion that
the best method of proceeding is, after tfcenal
cutting in the spring, to put as much salt oc ead
weed through the palm of .the band as will d>
tinctly cover it. In two or three days, depend
ing on the weather, they will turn brow
Those weeds that have escaped can be distinct^
seen and the operation repeated. The weed
thus treated die, and in about three weeks lk
grass will have grown, and there will not bej
vestige of disturbance left. Two years ago I
converted a rough pasture into a tennis grooil
for six courts. Naturally, the turf was a man
of rough weeds. It took three days to afc
them, and the result was curiously auccesrfA
I had one lawn with more Daisies than gra*
and on September 2, 1881, I took up the tori,
scratched the ground, relaid the turf upadl
down, scratched this also, well seeded it.
sprinkled it with soil, and in one month it m
green and hardly distinguishable from the otbM
parts of the lawn. Similar trials have tea
made in each month from March, and as late u
August 12, but the earth gaped or crackcd.-
Berkshire.

Thawlngr pumps—It is not often that tht
water in pump tubes is frozen on cold nights is
care is taken to let the water run down on th
approach of evening by raising the hacdk
Pumps out-of-doors, or those not freqoeuUj
used, may be secured from freezing by means o
a small opening a few feet below the surface e
the ground, allowing all the water to nm fl*
from the upper portion in the course of a fe*
minutes. This small opening does not interffir
with the ordinary use of: tbs pump. But wha
the water in the pump becomes frozen solid, it i
difficult to remove the ice unless right means ar
adopted. If hot water is poured in it ool
remains at the top, and scarcely thaws half at
inoh down. A contrivance which shall drive th
current of hot water directly against the ice «
melt it rapidly. For this purpose procures tin*
tube, which may be of lead (or even the hollo
stem of a reed), place a small funnel in the upp
end, and let the lower rest on the ice. Now po»
hot water into the funnel, when its weight wi
carry it directly throngh the tube on the U
which will be quickly melted, the weight of fl
settling tube keeping it all the time in clc
contact with the ice. A foot in length will
thus melted in a minute or two, while meit
pouring in hot water from a pitcher would r
effect as much in an hour.

3raeo under trees,— I do not know of myth
that will improve grass under trees permaoentl).
they sra ornamented trees, plant soma ^ood Ivy roo
trunks ; It will always loftk welL —J5.C8HC,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

March 2i>, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

29

INDOOR PLANTS.

FEW GOOD GREENHOUSE CLIMBERS.
- amateurs who are fortunate enough to pos¬
ts a greenhouse are very often making
qoiries regarding the best climbers with which
cover the walls and roof of such structures,
will endeavour to help, as far as I can, those
bo may be at present or at any future period
quiring such help. In general, amateur's
^□houses are small, and, therefore, not suit-
)ie for strong growing plants ; and, again, they
e sometimes rather limited in regard to heat-
g appliances, so I will necessarily avoid all
bast growing plants, and also such as
quire much beat to insure satisfactory
suits, and confine myself to such as are
itable for such houses as I have mentioned
)ove. Where it is at all possible to have a
ederin which to plant climbers, by all means
ive one, as subjects planted out are much
isier looked after and yield vastly superior
suits compared with these in pots. In fact,
e liower-pot is only a necessary evil, to say the
ast of it, as most plants do much better when
anted out, and require much less attention.
I were restricted to one clim-
*jr, that one would be the com-
on Heliotrope (Heliotropium
jruvianum). ThiB I consider
e very best, as it is easy of
ilture and very floriferous.
oq can almost obtain flowers
om it at all seasons of the
:ar. The flowers are pale lilac
colour, and have a most
yreeable scent. There are a
ituber of hybrids, some darker
id some lighter in colour, but
prefer the old variety as a
raber. The Glory Pea (Clian-
us puniceus) is another
tirming plant for adorning
e walls of a conservatory. It
a native of New Zealand, and
nearly hardy in Britain, but
is well worthy of a place in
i irreenhouses. Its flowers are
arlet in colour, and are pro-
iced abundantly from the axils
the leaves in short racemes,
belongs to the order Legu-
icos®, or pod bearing plants,
which the Pea and Bean are
nr commonest examples. I
ay here mention that this
der is the most extensive and
iportant in the vegetable
ngdom. It supplies us with
tod, medicine, dyes, timber,
ad many other useful articles
>o numerous to mention here,
nother plant in the same order
- w&insonia galegifolia pur-
area. This is a most graceful
lant, producing long slender
rowths covered with beautiful
git green leaves, which, even without the
awers, render it a handsome plant. The flowers,
fhich, when the plant is liberally treated, are
vodaced in profusion all along the stem in
pikelets, are purple in colour, with a small white
•lotch, which make a most beautiful and con¬
gruous object The individual flowers resemble
be F’eafhwer very much in shape. It is a
itive of New South Wales, from whence it was
itroduoed about eighty years ago. Habro-
bimnns elegana is a climber which should be
i every collection, however small. It ia the
profuse and continuous flowering plant we
afe. I have seen plants from which a spray of
ts carmine coloured flowers could be obtained
t wy lime daring the year. It is somewhat
'oboit in growth, and it would, perhaps,
» advisable for those who have not too
aach room to give it poor soil to grow
*• w confine its roots a little, and thereby
it within reasonable bounds. Where
J required to cover the roof of a green-
“KW a most suitable plant will be found in the
^aeeria. Few climbers have acquired the
pRrchrity of the Lapagerias, and few are more
**atifal daring the season of bloom. Both red
*hite varieties should be grown, as they
tan i handsome pair and match each other so
They are moat beautiful/Wh’fin grown tp-|
and their branches aHoLedi^jEnt »4nlb.|
'^pore waxy whiteness of the one and^tqe

soft rosy colour of the other harmonise so well
that a most striking and beautiful effect is pro¬
duced. The first four plants above named suc¬
ceed admirably in a border composed of goo 1
rich turfy loam with a sprinkling of charcoal,
lime rabble, and a little sand to keep all porous
and open. The Lapagerias need a mixture of
one half rough peat and half turfy loam, with
lumps of white sand about the size of an egg,
and broken bricks scattered amongst it to keep
the compost sweet, as they are averse to cold
wet soil around their roots. These are a few
which, from personal experience, I can with con¬
fidence recommend. There may be others which
[ have not been sufficiently fortunate to become
acquainted with, but which some of your corres¬
pondents may know, and I am Bure I should be
most happy to see this short list extended.—
Caledonian.

STEPHANOTIS FLOWERING IN SMALL
POT8.

Some time ago we received from Mr. Crowe, of
the Boleyn Nursery, Upton, Essex, two or three
little plants of Stephanotis in flower, of which
the accompanying woodcut is a representation.

pods and placed them in a saucer in the kitchen
to dry. When dry, I put the seed into a box
and kept it till February, in the early part of
which month I made a box large enough to hold
a seed-pan, and put some wet Cocoa-nut fibre in
the bottom. Then I filled my seed-pan with
sandy mould, and covering the surface with
sand, watered it, and sowed the seed, not
covering it over. I placed the seed-pan covered
with glass in the box, and then covered the box
also with glass, and placed it in the kitchen, as
I have no heat in my greenhouse. In about
three weeks the seed began to germinate, and
at the present time the pan is full of seedlings.
It has just been placed in the cold greenhouse,
so that the seedliDgs may have more light and
air.— J. W. Kitchin.

Abutilons —Much has been written of late
on the merits of the Abutilon, but no mention
having been made of what is, in my opinion, the
finest of all the red or pink Abutilons, I thought
it might not be out of place to direct attention
to a variety sent me last year ander the name of
•' Eclipse." Its flowers are of a blood-red
colour. It is a free flowering and desirable
plant to possess. I 'grow the three most dis¬

Stephanotia floribunda flowering in a *2J Inch pot.

! In such a small state plants of this well-known
climber are peculiarly interesting, and no doubt
will be found useful for many purposes. With
• regard to these pigmy plantB, Mr. Crowe writes
| to us as follows: “ In the latter part of Feb¬
ruary we cut away a quantity of wood from a
large plant of Stephanotis floribunda trained to
the roof of a plant stove. This w;>od was cut
up into about 1000 eyes, potted separately into
24-inch pots and placed in a propagating case.
The greater portion of the wood was well
ripened, and would have flowered had it re¬
mained on the plant. So well ripened, indeed,
must the wood have been that the flower was
already in some of the eyes similar to a well-
ripened Hyacinth or Tulip, and after the eyes
rooted they flowered without making any
growth, as shown in the sample or two sent to
you, and I should say we had from twenty-five
to thirty others which did precisely the same.”
This shows that well-ripened wood is the secret
of successfully flowering this climber.

Raising Begonias. — I think it may
interest some of the readers of Gardening
Illustrated if I tell them how I raised some
Begonia seeds. Last year I had a stock of
Begonias and determined to save some seed, so
I Carefully spread the pollen with a paint-brush.
2 tbout the end of October I picked off the seed-

tinct in colour, viz, Boule de Neige, white ;
King of Yellows, yellow; and “ Ellipse," blool
red. These are the most distinct in colour,
and consequently most desirable.—W. Harris,
Barnstaple.

11162 .— Euphorbias and Polnsettlas.

—Euphorbia jacquiniieflora has now completed
its growth and flowering. When the soil in the
pots is dry, they may be cut down to within 6
inches of the point from where last year s wood
started. The old wood will do to put in as
cuttings, and if there are too many youDg growths
they may also be taken off close to the old wood,
and they will also form roots in a bottom heat.
Poinsettias may also be propagated in the same
way from the young growths, or from eyes of the
old wood put in as vine eyes are planted. They
both do best if the cutting pota can be put intoa
temperature of 65°. If you have not the advant¬
age of bottom heat, the cuttings or eyes will form
roots more slowly in your small stove. The old
plants should be turned out of the pots when they
have started to grow, a portion of the old soil
should be removed, and the plants repotted in a
compost of two parts loam to one of peat; some
dry rotten manure should be added to it and sharp
sand. During the summer months the plants will
do best in a greenhouse temperature. They H , -r-
rnake long bar® stemA in i Jshaded

■' D K - URBANA-CHAMPAIGN*

30

GARDENING ILLVSTRATED

[March 22, 18S4

11191.— Plants becoming drawn.— Too

little air and light is the cause of the plants
drawing. Give air at the top of the house as
soon as the thermometer marks 45°. Mach harm
is often done by deferring air-giving until the
temperature runs up high in the morning on
tine days. In tine weather when there is no
cold wind, open the front lights as well, and
even the door, but avoid cold draughts, which
are very harmful.—J. C. B.

- As your small house is but 3 feet high,

the plants cannot become drawn, because they
are too far removed from the glass. Probably
you do not admit air freely enough.—J. D. E.

11173 —Rosea and Camellias on baok

walls.—Bath Roses and Camellias will do better
planted out in a prepared border than under the
best pot culture. The soil should be taken out
2h feet deep, and for the Camellias G inches of
brick rubble for drainage should be placed at
the bottom, putting some whole turves of loam
or peat thereon, or some of the lumpy portions
of the compost, which will keep it open. The
soil for Camellias should consist of equal parts
loam and peat, with one-sixth of the whole of
silver sand ; but for the Roses, good loam, with
some well-rotted dung in it is best, and for
them no special preparation in the way of
drainage is needful The plants may be set out
at once, taking care in the case of the Camellias
to make soil firm round the balls. Two good
sorts of Camellias are imbricata and alba plena,
and if we had room for one Rose only, it wouli
be Niphetos, which is a perpetual bloomer, and
the buds of which are just the right thing for
button-holes. It is better fitted for small houses
than Marechal Niel, being of more moderate
growth; still the Marechal may be grown if so
desired.—J. C. B.

11171.— Raising plants In sand.— Instead of sow¬
ing the seeds In sana you should me some light sandy
s)il. 8and itself it not snflletently firm for seedlings,
and does not afford them suffiflent support when they
begin to grow. For very flue seeds It is a good plan to
sow them on flae soil and cover lightly with sand.—
J. D. E.

ii\8r—Jasmlnum gracllllmum —You ought not
to have kept your plant so long as twelve months in a
6-inch pot. As it is strong and healthy, pot it at once
Into a 7-inoh pot It Bhould ha placed near the glass,
which will oause it to flower freely. It likes a tempera¬
ture of from 6J° to 66° at night.— J. D. E.

11176.—Azaleas not blooming.—They will flower
all right presently. You have not enough patience. Do
not give them aDy more manure-water at present; that
will cause a rush of young growths, which may leave
some of the flower buds dormant behind them.—J. D. E.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from, page 2.)

The Retarding House.

No villa garden of the first class is complete
without a house of this character. It should
occupy a north aspect, and will of course be a
lean-to. Besides ica value for retarding plants
for exhibition, many shade-loving plants may be
grown in it in summer. Fuchsias, for instance,
and many other things, will retain their flowers
mach longer in the equable temperature of the
north house than in the sunshine. Azaleas and
many of the New Holland plants may have
their season much prolonged by keeping them
oool in the spring in a house where the sun
cannot reach them to excite the blossom buds.
Ia fact, no exhibitor seeking distinction can do
without a retarding house to make his early and
late plants meet at the right time. All the
family of Lilies succeed admirably in the north
hoase in summer, their flowers lasting much
longer away from the sun’s exciting influence.
Bat I need not refer to it at greater length, as the
value of all retarding houses will be easily
understood by all plant growers.

Oool Orohlda.

These may be divided into several classes,
according to the conditions under which they
grow naturally, and the countries whence
they come. Thus the Mexican Orchids succeed
in a low temperature, 45° to 60° being quite
high enough at night in winter, with a rise of
from 7° to 10° in the daytime from fire heat
alone. But the Mexican Orchids require a drier
atmosphere than do cool Orchids generally,
such, for instance, as those which inhabit the
higher regiona^6f>Pera, and a| freer circulation
of air, and thuimpblfei t ifc fcf plication of more
artificial beat in order tq^rin the air intro¬

duced. Though there are hundreds of species
of Orchids from Mexico and elsewhere belong¬
ing to the families of Epidendrum, Bletia,
Dendrobium, Oncidium, Maxillaria, Lycaste,
Odontoglossnm, Sc c. # that will flourish in a
night temperature under 50° in winter, which is
not much higher than a warm greenhouse tem¬
perature, yet there are Orchids with cooler
taste still than these. The Peruvian Odonto-
glots, many of the Oncidiums from the higher
mountain ranges and others of similar habit and
capacity only require in winter to be secured
from frost. Even the day temperature need
not exceed 50° if fire heat alono has to be used
to produce it, as too much artificial heat desic¬
cates the moisture and dries the atmoshere too
much. A low temperature laden with moisture
at all times, winter and summer, day and night,
are necessary to suit this class of Orchids. There
will, of course, be fluctuations in the surrounding
conditions, but nothing approaching forcing
should ever be attempted, as it will surely lead
to the plants becoming unhealthy. Sometimes
one is anxious to push on a slow growing plant,
but an increase of temperature will certainly
defeat the object in view. The supply of mois¬
ture must be abundant and constant. The floor,
the paths, and stages, must be frequently
deluged, and the syringe mast be used freely at
least twice a day in fine weather to supply the
needs of the plants which hail from the higher
mountain ranges of Peru. Shade, too, in spring
and summer will be necessary to screen the
plants from the drying influence of bright sun¬
shine. A low temperature highly charged with
moisture brings robust growth, which consoli¬
dates as it advances, and fioWers abundantly
without that starving, ripening period which
seems, so necessary in the case of the East India
and other species from a dry climate. To be
successful in the cultivation of any class of
plants, indeed I might go further and say any
individual plant, one requires to know something
of the conditions under which the plants flourish
in their native homes. When a plant is found
in a wild condition in any particular situation,
we may conclude that through a long series of
generations the work of fitting the one to the
other has been going on, and that it has
survived and flourished simply because it had
the power of accommodating itself to its circum¬
stances. Bat if that plant is taken from that
home where it has wrought out a place for itself
and is exposed to a new and different set of con¬
ditions, the probabilities are that the plant will
perish, hence the need of studying oarefully the
conditions under which plants have been grow¬
ing before we receive them; not that those con¬
ditions can be exactly imitated in all cases, but
they should guide us, and form a base or plat¬
form on which we may work.

The Kind of Orchid House
suitable for a beginner would be a low, span-
roofed structure partly sunk in the ground. It
may be with a path down the middle and a bed
or stage on each side. As the collection increases,
and the first plants develop into large
handsome specimens, a larger house will be re¬
quired, that is wide and roomy, though not too
lofty for this class of Orchids. There are two
great divisions of Orchids—one is called ter¬
restrial—and are usually grown in pots; and the
other, which are epiphytal, are fastened to
blocks of wood and suspended, or else planted
in baskets where the roots can revel among
Sphagnum, broken crocks, charcoal, and chips
of stone.

Terrestrial Orchids

must have plenty of moisture, but there must
on no account be any stagnation. The pots
specially made for Orchids have plenty of
openings for the escape of water, and are in
addition half filled with broken crocks or bricks
for drainage. On this, for the plant to grow in,
will come rough fibry peat, specially selected,
and Sphagnum—two parts of the former to
one of the latter, varying the proportions in the
case of certain species when necessary, as it
will be occasionally. Charcoal in lumps various
in size may with advantage be mixed freely in
the compost, and for stimulants dry horse drop¬
pings, in very moderate proportions, may be used.
In the case of this class of Orchids, the pots
need not be quite filled, but the centre
should be raised a little by raising the compost
into a mound. The material should not be
rammed into the pots too firmly, as the roots

need air; but as tlie material used is not vei
compressible, the pressure of the finger muM a
brought to bear in order to fix the plan
securely, so that the roots can get a good gag
Unhealthy plants may often be brought had",
health by planting them in baskets. It ofte
happens, either from having to use inferior pea;
or some other cause, that the compost beeoci
too close and sour, and the roots perish. If i
the dead roots are cat away and the pUct
placed among rough fibry material in baskeu
vigorous health will come back quickly to then
Orchids doing well, or even apparently so,re<>a>
to have their roots examined occasionally: is.
we cannot with safety allow a specimen Ordia
to go like a specimen Azalea, when it gets in
a full-sized pot with repotting. Most Orcfci
make a new annual root growth. Many uf a
old roots die, and repotting is necessary for tk
purpose of cutting away dead roots, which,
left, might bring disease and decay among ::
new roots just forming.

Epiphytal Orchids

dislike having their roots embedded in soil; act
of them succeed best when fixed on a Hod
and suspended near the glass. In some c&sa:
will be an advantage to plunge the block it
pot filled with broken crocks, surfaced rifl
Sphagnum. Though this broken, porous so
terial may seem to furnish nothing tangible ft
the roots to feed upon, yet a vapour is o»
tinually arising from it, which is a great
tanco to them. Almost any hard wood willd
for Orchid blocks. Teak is commonly ea
ployed, but Pear, or Apple, or Crab, Birch, orw
wood that does not readily decay will &
Baskets are commonly made of Teak, thosj
sometimes wire baskets are used, bat except :•
the case of the Stanhopeas, which send thd
flower spikes down through the soil, often pn
j acting out through the bottom, wood is decided!
best. Baskets are specially suitable for surfif
rooting Orchids, which of course most of U
Epiphytal species are. In the preparation i
the materials for potting, great care most lj
exercised, for to no class of plants is cleanlina
more essential. The Sphagnum should t
chopped up to suit the plants and the purj -»
for which it is required ; the layer on the surfa
of the pots or baskets should be chopped fine i
will then grow, and form a carpet of living g«0
beneath the plants. Some growers think tbh
living growth of Sphagnum adds to the
doing of the Orchids, as most certainly it »d4
to their appearance. All the drainage rnatera
must be washed, and none but the beat select*
peat obtained. And as most people will hire
buy it, I may as well say that the South!
England (Kent and Sarrey) peats are «

8 dered the best, and are not very expend
Sand is not mnoh used by Orchid growers,
tendency being to close up the pores of t *
soil, and prevent the air from entering free
This chapter on Orchids is, I know, of the rai
rudimentary character, but as the culture ^
this class of plants is spreading ami
the class of people for whom I I
writing, they could not be passed over alT ve.fl {
There is a great future before cool Orchids *1 j
their proper treatment becomes better knoj ^
Their wants are exceedingly simple; most of !t
failures have arisen from coddling too much J j
making too much fuss. A plant that will CT
in great clusters on a tree on the top of a hi j
mountain, will not bear stewing in a hot hof j
nor yet the wasting and drying of a hot I
or amid fierce currents of dry air, which drinki j
the life-blood out of the plant. j

Insects.

In cool houses there is less trouble with iuH 1
pests, although it is necessary to be constarif
on the watch, and if any of the thrip species
their appearance, famigate at once and IT
quently, till the last insect has disappf 1 ^
Beetles and cockroaches will give trouble if tP
are present, and so will slogs and snails P
they must be perseveringly sought after and f
stroyed. Perhaps the beetle family may be fj
duced to take poison, but other modes of desutt
tion should be persevered with at the sin
time. A disease known technically a* " S P|J
sometimes attaoks Orchids. It is generally H
outcome of improper treatment of some kirn
either the plants have been over-heated, or fj
rocte have l>e( a rotted off in soar soil, throqj
being kept too long in the tame pot without M
potting, and wherever it ;ippears in & c?1 ^

March 22, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

31

tioo, its eradication can only be effected by
discovering the cause and removing it, and
treating the plant more rationally in future.
Though Orchids will stand a good deal of ill-
usage before succumbing to it; yet when once in
bad health it takes a long time to bring them
round again. Hence the necessity for care and
watchfulness.

Temperature.

The temperature for the cool house should be,
in winter—night, 38° to 45°; day, 45 p to 50°
turner—night, 65° to 60°; day, 60° to
These are only given as approximations to what
h required, as no hard and fast line should be
laid down. Assuming that the year is divided
into two periods <pf winter and summer, the win¬
ter season will begin about the middle of Octo¬
ber and end about the middle of April. But in
the Orchid bouse the change of temperature
should be gradual. Alter the change of seasons,
the one merging into the other slowly, not
abruptly; thus the lowest point named in the
night temperature will be applicable to the sea¬
son when the thermometer falls to a low point
outside in the open air; but as the days lengthen
and the nights become warmer in spring,the night
temperature in the Orchid house will gradually
ascend till it merges into summer maximum, the
same rule applying to the day temperature,

List of Cool Orchids.

Aerides japonicum, Barkeria elegans, B. Lind-
leyana, Cattleya marginata, Ccelogyne cristata,
Cypripedium insigne, C. villosum, Cymbidium
eburneum, ;Dendrobium japonicum, D. spe-
ciosum, Disa grandiflora, Epidendrum biflorum,
E. Cooperianum, E. macrochilum, E. macro-
ehilum album, E. macrochilum roseum, E.
doribuQdum, E. nutans, E.paniculatum, E. chry-
aostomum, Masdevallia amabilis, M. can-
data, M. coccinea, M. Peristeria, M. rosea,
M. ignea, M. macul&ta, M. nycterina, M.
Yeitchiana, M. triangularis, Maxillaria aro-
icatica, M. grandiflora, M. cruenta, M. picta,
Miltonia Clowesi, Hoemaria maculata, Habenaria
tiexuosa, Pleione humilis, Pieurothallis cordata,
Odontoglossum crispurh, O. c. Alexandra, O.
blandum, 0. cirrhosum, O. cons trie turn, O. cor¬
data m, 0. cristatum, O. grande, O. gloriosum,
0. densiflornm, O. Lindleyanum, O. hystrix, 0.
maculafcum, 0. nebulosum, 0. Pescatorei, O.
radiatum, 0. Rossi majus, O. tripudians, O.
triumphana, 0. Uro-Skinneri, Oncidium auro-
eum, 0. Barkeri, O. cucullatum, 0. ansiferum,

0. bifoiium majus, O. hebereglossum, 0. pictum,
O.crispum,0.incurvum, O.rupestre, O.superbum.

The above list might be much lengthened if
it were desirable or necessary, for Orchids that
will thrive in the coolest greenhouse are
numerous. To go through the various classes of
Orchids would be beside my present purpose.

I will, however, first name a few sr>eci«s that.

I will, however, first name a few species that
nay be grown in a cool stove, say with a night
temperature in winter of 65° to 60°, and which ;i
may be grown successfully with the ordinary:
miied collection of stove plants : Calanthe
Testita and varieties, Coelogyne cristata, C.
jpedosa, <L Parishi, Cypripedium caudatum,

C. insigne and varieties, C. venustum, Den-
drobium nobile, D. chrysanthnm, D. cucullatum,

D. densiflorum, Phalus grandifolius, Stanhopea

grandiflora, S. oculata, Zygopetalum Mackayi
and varieties, Saccolabium Blumei, Oncidium
tleraosum, 0. P&pilio, O. luridum, O. varicosum,
Pb*ius grandifolius, P. Wallichi, Lrelia anceps,
snd Lycaste 8kinneri. E. Hobday.

OleanBlns plant and fruit houses.-—

At this time of the year, when the sun’s rays are
bat seldom seen, and the hours of daylight at
tbeir shortest limit, it is of the greatest impor¬
tance to have the glass scrupulously clean, so that'
Beta ray of light may be obstructed, for plants
cannot thrive in semi-darkness, and if anything
W the shape of exciting growth by means of
artificial heat is resorted to, it should be the firet
consideration to see that all woodwork, glass,
*«•» receives a thorough cleansing with soft
w»p and warm water, and the walls should have
•h bolts filled up with mortar, and then receive
‘ jood coating of hot lime. Climbing plants of
oak that flower in summer and autumn should
pruned in pretty closely, so as not to shade
■spot plants below them, and if any kind of

pest is established on the old wood,- u

tell with scrubbing brush and' soap, and
P«nt the stems with Giahurs^ooyiQt/xd

Vines, Peach trees, or other Fruit trees grown
under glass should be carefully cleansed and
dressed before the buds get excited into growth,
as they are not only more easily injured by
strong dressings when the sap is in motion, but
the flower buds of Peaches and other stone
fruits are very easily rubbed off after they
begin to swell. Pots should be scrubbed and the
surface soil removed and replaced with some
nice fresh soil, when the plants will start into
growth fresh and vigorous, and will repay the
attention bestowed on them. —James Groom,
Gosport,

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11159.— Surveyors and greenhouses.
—In reply to “ Happy Thought,” I must say that
the Metropolitan Board of Works appear to me
to have a decided hatred of all amateur attempts
at horticulture, or they would not have framed
that cruel clause in their Act whereby it is ille¬
gal to erect a portable greenhouse within 30
feet of any dwelling, unless upon 4 feet of
brickwork, which makes the said house in
almost every instance the property of the land¬
lord, and alas, how very many suburban horti¬
culturists have not 40 feet of ground attached to
their residences. The all wood and glass green¬
houses so extensively advertised are marvels of
cheapness, but the vendors take good care not
to inform their clients they must not be erected
within 30 feet of the house. I am smarting
under a deep wound just inflicted by a relent¬
less surveyor. I had erected a “ dear ” all wood
and glass structure, 6 feet from the rear of my
house ; it had been painted three coats of paint
and fully stocked, and was the admiration of
my neighbours, but the surveyor in an evil hour
made his entry, and in a tone of awful severity,
declared I had infringed the Act, whereby I was
liable to a penalty of £20. Upon informing him
of my to< al ignorance of the law, he said (in a
voice which could justly be compared to Mrs.
Siddons when she silenced for ever the butcher
who bad applied many times for his unpaid
account) his business was to' find out those who
infringed thelaw, not to publish it to the people.
One would'suppose 44 jerry ” building did not in
some neighbourhoods come within the Act.
Therefore I fear “ Happy Thought ” must either
pull down his greenhouse, and erect it 30 feet
from the dwelling; (if that is possible), or he must
replace the wooden panels with 4 feet of brick,
which is just about the same amount of trouble
and annoyance. Hoping all these things may be
altered some day, with much mutual sympathy
with 44 Happy Thought" in his trouble and
blighted prospects, I be* to subscribe myself
Unhappy Fact.

11150.— Hops as manure.— Spent Hops
are a valuable manure applied direct to the kit¬
chen garden soil, but, as 44 Aubert” has a green¬
house, I would advise that they be kept for
converting into a kind of leaf soil by rotting
them, as I have frequently seen excellent re¬
sults from their use. The best plan is to put
them in heaps out-of-doors, for under cover
they go mouldy and get spoiled, but out-of-doors
exposed to the atmospere they decay gradually
and may then be stored in a box until required
for use ; they may be used for muting with soil
for potting, and at this season when propagating
and seed sowing requires daily attention, a good
supply of light leafy soil is of the greatest
service to the gardener, as the tender rootlets of
seedling plants and fresh struck cuttings are so
easily shaken out of Boil of this character in the
necessary attention of repotting.—J. G. H.

11132.— Fish as manure.— In reply to
44 Tomato,” allow me to say that fish of any
kind is especially valuable as a manure for
fruit trees and bashes forked in about the roots
just as it is, as by any process of burning much
waste ocoura. In the fruit gardens and orchards
of Kent, fish is largely used as manure when¬
ever it is procurable at a cheap rate, and
speedily shews its beneficial effects by the
luxuriant growth of the crop to which it is ap¬
plied. All kinds of shells are good for mixing
with the soil, but are slower in their effect, but
on stiff soils they are verv beneficial, and
44 Tomato ” may apply them freely with a cer-
J^intyof benefiting his soil for a longtime.—

11177.—Blind for vinery.—A blind for
vinery 30 feet long, should be made in one
length, attached to a roller about 2^ inches in dia¬
meter, and drawn up from the bottom. All that
is necessary is a projection over end of house
like a spool, such as cotton is sold on, with a
stout cord wonnd round it, by means of which
the blind is easily rolled up into a pent-house
on top Of ridge. Eddy & Co., Porthleven, Corn¬
wall, supplied me with what I find the cheapest
and beet shadings, ready bound, and of any size.
-A. W. Wills.

11164 — Heating* greenhouse.— Two
3-inch pipes the length you proposed would be
sufficient to keep out any ordinary frosts, but
we must make our arrangements for frosts of
great intensity. Three pipes would be sufficient
with the necessary castings. That would be
better than putting 2-inch pipes round the path¬
way, although that plan would answer if you
prefer it, but it would cost more money to do it.
—J. D. E.

11211.— Chrysanthemum cuttings.— The rooted
cuttings should be potted at once Shake them out of
the pots, and pot singly in 3-inch pots, in soil consisting
of loam and leaf-mould, and enough silver sand to keep
it porous. Return to greenhouse or frame, and keep
close for a few days, then admit air freely. They cau be
planted out-of-doors in a few weeks if the weather is
favourable.—W. K. Boycb, Holloway, N.

11202.—Dahlia cuttings.—Do not take any part of
the tuber with tbe cuttings; if you do, there will be no
eyes left to start again for a second lot of cuttings. -
J. D. E. *

Heating apparatus for greenhouse. -What is
the best beatiDg apparatus for amateur’s greenhouse,
aud where can it be bought 7 —Miles. [77tw? isa^estion
which has never yet been tatisfactorily answered. '1 here

have been scores of apparatuses ie.com mended from time
lo tn Gavdkxinu, a)id we prefer now to leave our
readers to choose for themselves. It wou'd be. invidious
of us to recommend any particular stove or maker.]

S F >—We have not yet seen a report on the subject

you mention- Birkdale.— Messrs. Barr A Son, 12, King

Street, Covent Garden, London.- Cecilia B. C— Apply

to Mr. A. Dean, Bedfont, Hounslow.

Stanhoj)e R .—Your best plan will be to ask your queer-
tions through the paper, and no doubt you will get what

information you require.- A. P. A.-We see nothing

unusual in the clover sent.

Pontypridd.— Apply to Mr. Boiler, Nurseryman, South

Row, Kensal New Town, London.- Sam.— It is against

our rules to give names and addresses of our correspon¬
dents unless we have their permission to do so.

Garden pests —The insects sent are only common
earth worms, and will not do much harm , a dre&sinc
of soot will kill many of them. *

S. A.—Consult our advertisement columns.

Names of plants.— H. J. T.—l and 4, common

Daffodil; 2, Primula vertlciUata; 3, Sedum 8ieboldi._

J. G. C.— 1, Erica herbacea; 2, E. carnea.- Kilkenny

Cot.—Apparently Asplenlum viviparum.— Vera, Bolton.

—1, Kerria japonica ft.-pi. ; 2, Foray thia suspensa_

F. L S.— Rujicus racemosus.- B. G. -Habrothamnus

faacicularis.- J. B. A.-Lastrea dilatata.- L. Gal.

braith Bole. —Asplenlum adiantum nigrum var. acutum.
- John Turner.— Lastrea intermedia (North America).

QUERIES.

11250.— Surplus fruit.— Can anyone tell me where
to dispose of surplus fruit, vegetables, Ac. ? I had last
year, which was a very good season for wall fruit, a con¬
siderable surplus of Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots
I was recommended to send them to Covent Garden
where I was told that, as they were early in season’
having been for the most part grown under glass, I should
be sure of a good price. But I found that the Iruit sales¬
men there, In addition to requiring the most careful and
elaborate packing, and the fruit in the most perfect
order (even one very slight bruise being, as they said
enough to spoil a whole box) charged me with ten per
cent, commission on their sales, so that my fruit was I
found, after calculating co6t of firing, gardener’s wages
Ac., actually grown at a loss. If I could hear of a market
where I could get even a reasonable price, I should be
glad to make use of it in this coming season.—B.

11251.—Camellias dropping: their petala-1
have a fine Camellia planted out lu my conservatory
which is flowering freely and produces some very fine-
sized flowers. The plant is some 10 feet or 11 feet high
and looks healthy, and Is growing freely. The flowers’
however, when gathered with a stalk, very frequently or
I may Bay generally, drop off out of the calyx in a very
few hours, and sometimes at once, if only very lightly
touched, but the petals will preserve their form and look
well for a day afterwards. The earlier flowers, i.e , those
which opened a month ago, lasted very well when
gathered, but now when the flowers are numerous it is
useless to gather them, at any rate to travel. Is it
likely that the plant is over-watered, as it certainly is
not too dry? Or is there any other way of accounting for
the weakneis of the flowers f—Rus in urbe.

11252 —Cool greenhouses.— Borne time ago “ Ash¬
more ” WTote a series of useful articles in Gardkninq on
“ Cold Greenhouses.” Acting on tbe advice there given
I ordered a (pan roof greenhouse, 15 feet by 12 feet. One
end will adjoin the drawirn-rx-m. I have ordered the
floor to bo of cement, and intend to buy a Gillingham’s
heat radiator juit to the frost out Now, ? h ftV e

been startled d> being told that the radiator is of no use
and that a cement floor r,*i’l keep It too dry Is ihnre

32

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[March 2*2, 1884

any truth in this? I thall be much obliged if “ Ashmore
will tell me if the radiator is insufficient. It is not now
Advertised in Gardf.ninq. I hope to grow plants that
are hardy or half-hardy, and only require to keep frost
out. Any hints will ue much esteemed.— L. M.

11253.— Rose shoots rotting.—I Bhould be glad if
anyone could tell me the probable reason of a good many
oi the shoots on my Tea and Marechal Niel Roses going
rotten, like the enclosed? They are young trees, only
planted a little more than a year. They made splendid
growth last season, a good many of the shoots on the
Marechals being over 20 feet long. Thev are now full of
buds from top to bottom, but here and there a shoot goes
off by rotting close to the branch it grows on. I used
Clay’s fertiliser several times during last summer but
moderately, and I gave thtm one dressing this year after
they began to grow. Have I used too much, or what is
the cause ?—A. P.

11554.— Spot on Cucumber leaves.—Will some
of your readers kindly give me advice what to do to my
Cucumber plants? I have betu a Cucumber grower for
several years, and, for the first time, last year my plants
were attacked by something that caused the leaves to
come full of light brown spots. Although the plants
bore well, and carried a good crop last year, they became

S uite rusty at the latter part of ine time. They are again
tie same this year. As soon as the first rough leaves are
formed and expand they become spotted. The house
is span-roofed, and heated by hot-water pipes — heat
by night about 50°, by day, 60®, without sun heat.—
Silly Suffolk, Woodbridge .

11255 — Sandalls Plum. — Can anyone give me
any information respecting Sandall's Plum? It is
variety that I used to see in Covent Garden Market ten
or twelve years since. Messrs. Dancer of Fulham, used
to market it in quantities as a very late variety, but I
cannot find anything to answer it in Scott’s Oichardist.
It is a round Plum, dark purkle, flesh reddish yellow or
amber, adhering firmly to the Btone, juicy, pleasant
flavour, resembllrg the Damson, a very late culinary
sort, ripening in the end of fceptember, hangs for a lon|
time on the tree, and does not crack with the rain. I
it known under any other name ?— Thomas Eaton.

11256.— Dielytra epectabilis —In an article on
the culture of Dlelytra spectabills in a gardening paper

S ublished in 1872, Mr Douglas says, “ Being a native of
iberla, the Dielytra is quite hardy, and require no pro
tection whatever in winter.” Now, a writer in Gar
dening last month (February) informs an inquirer that
a glass or other covering is very necessary to preserve
the flowers of this plant from being cut down by spring
frosts. Which statement is correct? It is not unfre¬
quent for amateurs to be puzzled by the contrary advice
given for flower culture.— An Old Lai»y.

11257.— Violets in greenhoute — I have a lean-to
greenhouse facing east, with one end open south, and
well sheltered on all sides, but getting a great deal of
sun, which will compel me to shade in summer, and I
think of making in it a permanent bed for Violets. Am
I likely to succeed with them, and what can I plant
amongst them, in the way of dwarf flowers (not bulbs),
that will enliven the bed, and add a finish to the base of
a small fernery on tufa stone ? Temperature in winter
about 50®.-B. H. L
Il258.-Zmc labels and lightning.— Are zinc
labels, attached by copper wire to the heads of standard
Rose trees, injurious to the trees, or likely to kill them ?

I lost, last summer, some dozens after the same bad
broken out well and produced flowers. They appeared as
if struck by lightning. Also, is copper wire placed be¬
hind fruit trees to keep them from a close park fence,
likely to injure thtm by attiacting the lightning in a
Btorm?— H. J. Vkrshaw.

11259.—Montbretia Pottsi.- A friend has given me
some roots of Montbretia Pottsi; how am I to manage
thtm? My friend sent for them to Edinburgh a few
years ago, and gave 3s. a root for them. They have grown
and spread, but have never bloomed. Can anyone Bay
why ? They are planted out In the flower border, in good
soil. Surely if they bloomed out of doors in Edinburgh
they ought to do so here in Leicestershire ?—W. R. T.

11260.—Sow-bugs in greeDhouses.- Can anyone
inform me of anything that will rid me of sow-bugs in
greenhomes? They get in the pots at the top under
Moss that I have covered the Ferns with. At the bottom of
pots they are very numerous when I move or shake them.
They are also in the earth that nearly surrounds the
greenhoute inside. I have tried boiling water where it
can be used.— Mary Moss.

11261 — Packli g flowere -1 thall be glad of any
hints on packing flowers and fruit for sending by post or
rail. I have sent some flowers to London, but the most
delicate ones have not anived there in go<d condition,
and the florist taid he did not like them packed in cotton
wool. Should they be damped previous to being packed?
—M. L. M.

11262.—Plums as espaliers.—Will any reader in¬
form me if a Damson or Bullace Plum, can be success¬
fully grown as an espalier? The gardtners I have con¬
sulted are not favourable to this mode of culture, even
with a Victoria Plum, which I have seen laden with fruit.
Also the name of the most prolific sort of Damson or
Bullace will oblige —8. F.

112C3.—Belf-ectiDg ventlla^ors.-Can any reader
Inform me how to make an automatic ventilator for a
greenhouse ? I mean one which would open of itself
when the temperature lose above a certain degTee, and
close when it dropped below it. Such a thing, if it could
be done, would be a great boon to many an amateur
beside— G. Hall.

11264 — Pansies for spring bedding. — Would
someone kindly give me full cultural directions for pro¬
pagating a stock of Pansies, to be planted in beds in the
autumn and removed in time to make room for sum¬
mer bedding ? Old plants torn to pieces in the autumn,
and planted straight into the beds, do not seem to
answer.—A. R.

11265.—Handbook to amateur gardening.—
Can anyone recommend me a good book on outdoor gar¬
dening and management of a small greenhouse in ihe
country, for an amateur? The directions must be made
very simple, and I prefer one which f|ves the tim< s for
sowing, planting, etc., and atyfolt

L. M.

11266.— Latanla borbonica. —I haTe two plants of
this Palm ; what treatment do they require—how often
watering ? They are 20 inches high and in 6 inch pots.
Do they require repotting, and inwhat soil ? What are the
best showy greenhouse climbers, and which is the best
Nasturtium ?—W. 8. W.

11567.—Hyacinth bulbs.-1 shall be glad to know
how maDy yean Hyacinth bulbs ought to flower ; also
what is the proper treatment when they have flnished
flowering. 1 have some which have been grown in a
cool greenhouse, and othen out of doors —M. L M.

11268.- Grass near shrubs.—About a year ago

{ mt in a young Laurel hedge running east and west, and
eft the tnrf close up to the shrubs on both sides.
Shonld I leave it »o. or cut the turf away from oue cr
both sides to give air to the roots?— Mhow.

11209.— Manure for Rotes —Will “ J. H. W. ," who.
in an article in Gardening recently, recommended
Beeson’s blood and bone manure for Roses, kindly say
if the above manure is good for Roses in pots, and if so,
what quantity may be used with safety ?—Novic*.

11270.— Moles.— I shall feel obliged if any of your
readers can tell me how to got rid of moles. They
attacked some of the potatoes in the autumn, and during
the winter have eaten the hearts out of half of the celery?
— J. G., Bingley, Yorka.

11271 —Propagating Hyacinths. — I have a
strong amcition to propagate Hyacinths, but not being
*■ xperienced in the matter, I shall esteem it a great favour
if any reader can furnish me with information on the
subject.— B. O.

11572-Azaleas not flowering.—Will someone
kindly inform me the reason of Azaleas not floweiing
when they have shown bud for two successive years ?
The soil has been tsken away and freeh put to them each
year.- J. R.

11273.— Cucumbers and Tom at oes for profit —
Having a hothouse 40 feet by 12 feet, I should be glad to
know which are most profitable to gr< w, Cucumbers or
Tomatoes, for market. Would Tomatoes require bottom
heat ?— F S.

11274.—Neapolitan Violets.—Which is the best
way to grow Neapolltan Violetst Ought the runners to
be cut off All the year round, and when ought the plants
to be divided?—T. G.

11275.— Late Chrysanthemums. — Can anyone
give rr.e a list of late large-flowered Chrysanthemums ? 1
bad about twenty specimens last year, and they were all
overby or before middle of Dtc« mler ?— J. G. N.

11276.— Carnations for next winter.- Can any
one tell me how to grow Carnations In a greenhouse to
bloom next winter?—A. J. R,

11277.—Water in aquarium tuminor green.—
How can I prevent the water in my aquarium turning
green?— R. A.

11278.—Worms in Camellia pets.—I shall feel
obliged if anyone can inform me how to get rid of worms
out of Camellia pots.—A. Z.

11279.— Plante for rockery.—Will someone kindlj
tell me what to plant on a new rockery facing north r
What creepers would grow there without sun ?—Kvk
11280 .—Nitrate of sotia for plants-—I should be
glad to know the exact amount of nitrate of soda to use
in water for plant* ?—Eve.

11281. — Slugs. — What height of perforated zinc
above ground has been found auflicient to keep off slugs
from plants ?—A. B. 8.

11282.—Annuals among shrubs.—Are there any
hardy annuals which will flower among shiubs in shad}
places?— Milks.

11283 —Culture of Chicory.—Can anyone inform
me the best method of growing Chicory to be diessed as
Spinach as used in France?—R. B.

11284.—Water creas.—How can I make Watercress
grow in a slowly running shallow stream ?—A. E. N.

POULTRY.

Fowls for winter laying.— In Garden¬
ing, February 2nd, an article appears upoD
“ winter laying poultry,” in which the writer
says : —«• Old birds will never pay for their food
in winter time, and generally stop laying when
moulting commences, and will not recommence
until spring weather sets in.” Now I find that
my fowls lay more eggs during their second and
third winters than during their first winter
Indeed, I have more than once had them laying
to the latter end of Angust, when moulting com¬
mences, and they have begun laying again be¬
fore November; in fact, all will recommence
before the end of the last named month, if pro¬
perly treated. The following is my method of
treatment. The roosting house is 6 feet square,
which I calculate is large enough to accommo¬
date a dozen hens and two cocks ; the run is 6
feet wide by 25 feet long, allowing about 11 feet
per head. I may say that both run and roost are
rain proof, the run haviDg a brick wall 8 feet
high upon the north side, and a wire fence 5
feet 6 inches high in front, and boarded from
back to front, forming a shed over them ; this I
consider important, as fowls will lay very little,
summer or winter, if they are continually wading
through slops. The next point of import¬
ance is the feeding to keep them in health,
without which they will not lay. They must be
attended to regularly; the food should consist of
a little green stuff daily, with a plentiful supply
of corn before retiring for the night, the proper

ticn8 being two-thiidssound bailey atdoce-tkr:
maize. Fcr the morning meal, I give barley
flour made into a thick paste, to which I add i
sprinkle of cayenne pepper. Fat (such as ttai
skimmed off broth or soups) is an excellent
producer, and if given alternately with boite
fleth (offal of any kind) will ensure aplect
f ul supply of eggs throughout the winter media
If the fowls are of a hardy race, such as Hoc
dan, Game, black-breasted red, Brahma, Leg
horn, or Plymouth Rocks, crosses of any d
them are preferable to pure breed fowls. Theft
if housed as mine are, and fed as stated, vil
give their owner no cause to gTumbleabcuttbea
winter laying qualities, provided they be tot
more than three years old.—J. H.

Leg weakness In fowls.— I would ad -
vise anyone having birds so affected to kill the:
and eat them. It is only pure-bred birds whici
are so effected, which is proof of weakness d
constitution, the result of breeding from
stock.—A Constant Reader.

How to cure diarrhoea In fowls.— If the daa*
is not very bad it can be checked at once in most c*a
by giving a meal or two of well boiled rice dredged on?
with finely-powdered chalk. If this is ineffectual, tab
five grains powdered chalk, five grains rhubarb, va
three grains cayenne pepper; make Into pills, givirgn*
night and morning Bone dust is an excellent pretu,
tive of diarrhoea.—8. M.

Fowls for Email run.— I am erecting a (owl na
14 feet long by 5 feet wide, and as I do not know *h:
would be the best kind to purchase for egg producinK r
this inisll run, 1 should feel obliged if any reader vcaU
let me know what would be the best bried to select I
do not want more than three or four hens.—J. M.

11143.—Double yolked ducks' egga-It woufc
be quite impossible to account for your duck* Isjitj
double-yolked eggs ; however, try less fattening food
than Indian coni. I would suggest boiled PoUtai
mixed with a little Indian meal. Of course, such ejp
are useless for hatching.—A Constant Reader.

Eggs milky.— In reply to “E. M. H.” tu toegs
being milky, I would stroDgly recommend him topi
them under a clucking hen for one week.—J. ?. Gsomi

Hen for slttlDg— For hatching eggs, Us little be:
better than a big one, and if so, why? - C. R. L

POTATOES.—0 ood seed, grown on led toil, t

A and put on rail; Magnum Bonum. ton. 63s ; 1 cwt tq
4s. 6d.; ditto, Reading Hero, 7#.-EDWARD T. PEBRtNs ,
Horn grove Kidderminster.

R OSES! ROSES 1! ROSES !!!- Wonderfc 1

Av cheap Roses, best sorts and true to Dame, all bare bm
moved back and will plant with sa’ety, 20 choice stasis^
Roses for lfs 6d. ; 10 choice half-standard R- -sea for 14. (A
40 choice dwarf Roses for 12*. 6d.; 20 choice Tes-s«Dir<l »s4
Noisette Roses for 12s. 6d.: my selection ; c*sh with Wtf
hundreds of testimonials; cataUgues free. — J AML*
WALTERS. Mount Radford Nursery Exeter.

njERANIUMS, autumn-rooted, Scarlet Ve«u-

U viua, 1* 3d dozen, 6s. 6<L 100; Wonderful. Wfca
Vesuvius. Christine and Madame Thibaut, la 6d. dotes, k
100; Master Christine, Bijou, and Flower of Spring b 5i
dozen. 8s. 103; Crystal Palace Gem and Happy Tbci^t
Is. lOd. dozen. 10*. 100; Golden BroDze, 2a. do* n. Pox a
free by post; hundreds paid on first rail.— JAMES BABT0.S
North Bridge Street. Robertabiige, Sussex.

a^EVjHiJN FUCHSIAS, first prize whertvtr
tJ shown, four fiist prizes at Burton on-Trent «bo*»kf
year, wdl-rooted cuttings, one of each, post free. 2s. 6d -t
WOOD, Bea>woodhill Road, Winshill, near Buitoo-oa Tiect
Staffordshire.

r ro ACRES DAFFODILS.- BARR & SONS

grounds, Lower Tooting. Nearly 500 varieties. VirftcJ*
admitted to inspect, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sstardos
from now to May.

lV/TARVELLOUSLY Cheap collection of choice «■

LtL plants for Conservatory Window, and G*rdcr, ecerr¬
ing of six each Zonal Geraniums, Fuchsias, Heliolro!
Campanulas. Chrysanthemums, Calceolarias, sad Tndt*
cantias Ail correctly named, and from single pct*» cj*
reran* 5*.. post free ; half quantities, 2s 9d.-J. F. DACIi .
High Street, Leyt on, Essex.

pOTAlOKS.—Magnum Bonum, Early Ko'Vj
A and Bcotch Champion, for seed or table, pot on nii ti
4s. per cwt. - OHAS. PRIDEAUX, Motccmbe.
bury, Dorset.

flOLEUS, choice sorta, 6 for Is. 2d.; ChrysaE

themumr, leading varieties. Is. 6d. dozen ; Heliot«F^

G-um coccineum. Fuchsias, chdoe named. 2*.
Acacias, 4, Is 2d.; Pansies, la. dozen ; Carnation*, ®Pf" |
“train, Is. 3d. dozen : Wallflowers (Dark Blood). Mile*'ft**
Mignonette, strong. 50, Is. 6d.; Tomato. Hathaway***** L *
sior. very prolifio, 25, 1*. 2d.; Ivy-leaf Geranium*,3l
*11 root

, luuiuiu. I

. - -- —. —; Ivy-leaf Geranium*- 3■ f

6d. dozen ; all well rooted, free.—CRANE ft CLABMj ,,
Hillside Nursery. Haddenba m, El y l 05 ' 1

“ INSTANTANEOUS Art of Never
A ting ” taught thoroughly by post. ANY BOOK *4^ 4
TERED IN ONE READING £ro*p*ctu* free. Opioiaf *
Mr. R A. PROCTOR, Dr. ANDREW WILSON, from
study of the sysUm. Prf. LOI8RTTB, 37. New Oifordgt .£} • I

nniN BOXES l TIN BOXES! 1—144 light TiiJ

-L Boxes.6 inches by 3J inches by 1| indies.including 4

case, 1 4s — TI PPETrS k CO,, Alton, Birmingham. _ _ k

"FREEHOLD LAND in one and two-aciepkb ^

A to be Let or Sold —Tangley Park. Hampton, 1?
from London, and half a mile from station. Soil, 'ica \
gravel aubeoil, high, dry, and healthy; possewion 1 to [Jr^
roent of 10 per cent deposit Also quarter and o *|,»'
plots-Apply to the ESTATES INVESTMENT 4 °

FARM CO.. Limiti d. 110, Cannon Street. London.

FGG8.—Dark Brahma, 5s. per dozen:

IJ 4i. 6d. per dozen; ail from fir.t-clans pure*J
wsrrauted f:»h, and dispatched at onc(.—M“. B. .

Proshertoft Mill, Botnoo, Lincolnshire

CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED.

Vol. VI.

MARCH 29, 1884.

No. 264.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 31).

Forcing Flowers.

A house in which to bring forward flowers
for the conservatory is one of the essen¬
tials of a well appointed place, even though
all things may be on a very moderate scale.
As the forcing house will be chiefly in re¬
quisition in winter, it should be light, and at
the same time capable of being economically
heated. The best class of house for bringing
on early flowers, or for general forcing, is a low
structure partly sunk in the ground, with a
hipped roof, i.e. t a long light facing the south,
and a short one on the north side. Such a house
will give a maximum of warmth and light at a
minimum of cost. The interior arrangement
will depend upon its width. If narrow, the
forcing bed should be in front, with a path along
the back, and shelves against the back wall
and wherever room could be found, as the most
should be made of the space. If the house was
16 feet wide, the forcing pit might occupy
the centre, with a path all round, and shelves
teck and front. Such a house would require
six rows of 4-inch pipe to heat it economically
The forcing pit might be filled with leaves, tan,
or Cocoa fibre. Or a stage, if desired, may take
the place of the pit. The pit might be chambered
and have two rows of pipes for bottom heat. This
would be cleaner than leaves or tan, and only
fibre enough to plunge the pots in, or to stand
them on if unplunged, will be required. All such
houses should contain a tank inside, in which
a supply of water should be kept.

Preparing Plants for Forcing.

In forcing plants, the preparatory work is the
most important, and will consist in so treating
the plant as to enable it to build up a strong
Leal thy growth early in the season, and after
wards be exposed to the most favourable condi¬
tions for maturing the growth and insuring a
period of rest before the application of heat. If
we apply the excitement of artificial warmth to
a plant whilst the activity of the summer
still lingers about it, we may obtain growth, but
there will, probably, be a paucity of flowers,
simply because the flowers were not there, the
work of fixing not being completed; hence the
necessity and the value of preparation. In the
majority of things forced for their flowers, the
preparation can be carried on in the open air,
and many plants, especially those with bulbous
roots, are prepared in Holland. But with re¬
ference to those things forced which can be pre¬
pared at home, take the Spiraea japonica, one of
the most popular forcing plants inexistence. Our
home grown plants, if well cultivated, are equal
to most of the foreign importations. Divide the
roots and plant them out in a rich border for
two years, and strong clumps that will force
easily may be had. The same treatment will
a PPl7 to Lily of the Valley, Dielytra
spectablis, and the most useful forcing plants.

Shrubs for Forcing.

Those that have been prepared by special
ripening culture are more easily forced than if
jost lifted from the nursery bed and pot¬
ted a week or two before being placed in heat.
There are some exceptions to this rule. The Ameri-
plants, for instance, being fibrous rooted,
°*abe lifted with balls; and will force very
well when lifted from the bed and straight¬
way moved into gentle warmth. The Rhododen¬
dron and Azalea, in all their forms, are invalu¬
able for forcing, as are also the Kalmia and An¬
dromeda. Many, I might say most, of the de¬
mons spring flowering shrubs will bear forcing,
u the temperature is not too high, not more than
^ at night. The Lilacs, the Thorns, the
ueatzias, Forsythias, Laburnums, Honeysuckles,
^Jeonies, Mock Orange or Philadelphus.the
flowering Sloe, Prunus spinosa fl.-pl.,
flowering Currants (Ribes), Spiraea prunifolia
; Pi, Weigelarosea, and others; and forfoliage the
_*panese Maples are equal to many of the stove
k-ante. The Silver-leaved species, Acer Negundo
U^atam, forces very easily, and produces ar
Q'^edlngly light and pleasant ^ffect^ujoof daffc

leaved plants when flowers are scarce. The
newer Japanese Maples are also very desirable
things to possess for pot culture in the con¬
servatory. The best kind of preparation, if the
plants are required for forcing early, is to buy
strong young plants, pot them in suitable sized
pots, which will give a fair amount of space for
a season’s growth, then plunge them ont in an
open sunny situation, and keep them well sup¬
plied with water during the growing season.
The next best plan is to plant them in a pre¬
pared bed, leaving space between them for the
air and light to play freely among the foliage.
In any case a mulching of short manure will be
serviceable. I do not, of course, pretend to
exhaust this subject. A book might be written
upon forcing flowers alone if every detail in
connection therewith was examined. Very
many of our hardy border flowers will bear
heat. The common Primrose forces as well as
the best of them, and looks far happier and
brighter under glass in January than it does in
the open air exposed to the keen blighting blast.
Daisies will submit to pot culture, but ere im¬
patient of much heat. Violets, everybody knows,
will pay for protection. In short, any hardy
plant which flowers naturally in spring may be
potted and brought on gently under glass in a
moderately heated, well ventilated structure.
Take the common garden annual (or biennial
according to its season of sowing) Borage—what
a showy plant it makes in a pot when pushed
early into flower. Solomon’s Seal, again, is
another common thing which in winter has a
majestic effect as a clump in a pot in a promi¬
nent position. Early sown Canterbury Bells
potted up will flower early in spring in the
greenhouse. And how sweet the Brompton
Stocks are early in spring, when sown about the
middle of July, potted up in autumn, and brought
on under glass.

The Propagating House.

This may either be a low span-roofed pit
sunk partly in the ground, or it may be a lean-to
in the same position. The best propagating
house I ever had was a small low lean-to of
rather small dimensions, but it was capable of
turning out an immense number of plants. The
bed to receive the cuttiDgs rested on a wrought-
iron water tank, which had a flow and return
in connection with the boiler, and furnished a
regular steady bottom-heat of a most genial
character. The tank filled up all one side of the
house ; the other side was furnished with an
unheated bed to receive the pots of cuttings, <kc.,
as they were lifted from the striking bed, and
harden them a bit to fit them for potting off, or
to move them on to other houses. Sand or
Cocoa-nut fibre may be used as plunging
material. Sawdust is not a bad substitute if
not too fresh. It should be obtained from bard
woods, not deal, as that sometimes generates
fungus. A little house of this character would
not co-t much, and it will be found cheaper in
the end to have a shallow iron tank to supply
bottom-heat than trust to cement, which, in
some cases, I have known to produce endless
trouble. When the propagating season is over,
there are many uses to which such a house could
be put. But where many plants of various kinds
are required, propagation or grafting may go on
pretty well all the year, or it may be used for
raising choice seedlings. Though where much
propagating has to be done I recommend a
small house heated by hot-water, yet I by no
means despise a hot-bed on the old-fashioned
principle of leaves and dung in a brick pit or
under a two or three-light frame. In the spring
such a bed will do almost anything if made
large enough to keep up a steady heat of 75° to
80°. All the usual kind of bedding plants may
be rapidly raised in it, as well as most of the
soft-wooded occupants of the stove and green¬
house. Seeds of all kinds are rapidly germinated
in its genial warmth. In short, a hotbed of the
character described, possessing a steady bottom-
heat of, say 80°, will do anything which genial
warmth can do to arouse the vital principle in
seed or catting. I have referred to sawdust as an
excellent plunging material, and it is all this
1 and more, for it is one of the very best mediums

for quickly striking difficult subjects among
stove plants of a ligneous or semi-woody
character I know. of. All the Dracaenas, Crotons,
Ficus elastica, and such like plants, will strike
quickly in warm, moist sawdust. I have often
laid the cuttings in in bundles, and when rooted
taken them out and potted them.

All Cuttings
should be potted as soon as the roots are formed,
before they ramble off and get tightly embedded
in the sawdust or whatever is within their
reach. Such roots, on lifting up the cuttings
generally break off, and the plants have to begin
work again, but if the cuttings are potted off
when the little roots are about a quarter of an
inch loDg they receive but little check, but in
all cases the rooted cuttings must be placed in
the hotbed till established in their pots. Last
spring we had a number of large Tea Roses in
pots which had been flowering all the winter,
and which about March had pretty well shot
their bolt. They were cut down and the
branches made into cuttings, using up all the
wood, both the soft shoots and also the harder,
better ripened wood. The cuttings, when made,’
were planted thickly in a bed of warm, moist
sawdust. Some of the cuttings from the soft
points died from damp, but I do not think one
of the shoots fairly firm and ripe failed to grow.
We had plants enough to fill a long border, and
most of them flowered during the summer and
all through the autumn, and, in fact, I cut buds
half expanded from Hom&re and Souvenir d’un
Ami on Christmas day.

The Unheated Plant House.

A very great deal may be done in a glass
house without artificial heat, if Bet about with
judgment. The larger the structure the less
fluctuation in the temperature, but it would be
easy to improvise some covering for small green¬
houses, whereby in winter the usual run of
greenhouse plants may be kept in safety with¬
out the necessity or the nuisance of going out
on a cold frosty night to attend to the green¬
house fire. I remember something like twenty
years ago, a friend of mine, Mr. H. Howlett,
invented a system of covering houses in cold
weather to economise fuel and to prevent the
atmosphere on a cold night from being scorched
and roasted by the hot pipes and flues. If I
remember rightly it was called the “Louvre
protector,” and was fixed on the roof outside
the house in the model exhibited, and was
fashioned like a Venetian blind with strips of zinc,
only instead of drawing up and down, as does the
Venetian blind, thestrips of zinc could be elevated
at pleasure, so that they stood at right angles
to the roof; or they could be dropped down
flat, when they formed a continuous metal cover¬
ing enclosing a body of air, several inches in
depth, between the covering and the roof, and
it is this motionless body of air which on cold
nights forms such a good protection. The in¬
vention in question was reported favourably on
at the time, but I suppose Mr. Howlett did not
meet with sufficient encouragement to induce
him to persevere. But I am convinced that, in
this or some other form, the owners of small
conservatories might save their plants in winter
without the necessity for a fire. But there aro
other ways of managing an unheated house
so as to take a good deal from it without run¬
ning much risk of losing the plants. Most of us
know that plants growing in a border will bear
more cold than if in a pot and the pots exposed
Merely plunging the pot has been known in
severe straits of weather to save the life of the
plant. Hence it seems to follow that in un¬
heated conservatories the main feature should
partake of some degree of permanency. Groups
of Camellias, for instance, will always be a
striking feature in such a house. There are

Many Japanese Plants
bearing variegated foliage which may be used
freely to give tone and character to such a house.
And I contend that unless the main features
can be kept healthy and thriving without skilled
or with only ordinary care, the house can¬
not be a source of pleasure, as unhealthy olenfs
are always an eyesore. Besides the plants named

Imbana-cham PAION'

34

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[March 29 . 1884 .

there are many others of striking asjpect. calcu¬
lated to inspire interest, from China, India, and
the Australian colonies. Plants which are
rather too Under to thrive generally in the open
air will be quite at home in an unheated house.
Among these are Palms and Drachmas from
Austral'a, Rhododendrons from India. Indeed,
with a little trouble and searching for, a house
could be filled in a most interesting manner with
a number of plants which occupy a sort of
debateable ground between the tender and those
hardy enough to withstand our climate,
in the open. And besides the plants which attain
to some size, there are many little things among
bulbs, exclusive of the Japanese Lilies,
which would be a special feature; and if in
addition there was a pit and a frame or two,
many things in pots could be brought on to
furnish any bare space. Pots of annuals and
many other early blooming spring flowers (Wall¬
flowers, for instance) sheltered in a cold frame,
will bloom very early; in fact, if sown early,
they will blossom all the winter. Brornpton
Stocks, &c., may be grown in pots, or rather be
potted up in autumn and wintered in a cold
pit for spring blossoming. Neat little bushes of
Laurestines will be useful in winter, as would
be also the early hardy Daphne Mezereum. I
append a short list of plants suitable for cul¬
ture in an unheated house, but many others may
be added Agapanthus, white and blue ; Aralia
Sieboldi, Azalea indica various, Arundo Donax
variegata, Aspidistra lurida variegata, Bamboos
various, Cannas various, Camellias, Clematis
various, Coronilla glauca, Draoenas various.
Dielytra spectabilis, Edwardsia grandiflora,
Fuchsias various, Farfugium grande, Fan Palms,
Hydrangeas various, Jasminums various, Lapa-
geria, white and red: Myrtles various, Mande-
villa suaveolens, Oleanders (Neriums), Phormium
tenax variegatum, tree Carnations, Lilies various,
Solanum jasminoides, Vallota purpurea, Lyco¬
podium denticulatum, Rhododendron arborea,
and other Indian species. J have jotted down
the above list from memory of plants that may
be grown successfully in a cold house without
artificial heat of any kind, and I am perfectly
sure that a house of any description may be
made most interesting by using a selection
from the list given, though it may, of course,
be much extended. I have already pointed out
that plants growing in a border suffer less
from changes of temperature if they are ex¬
posed to extremes of cold, say, for instance,
than when cultivated in pots. Therefore, in
winter, at least, all pots should be plunged in
the border or in beds of Cocoa fibre.

Pits and Frames.

These may now be had in many forms. Some
of the modern little structures in wood, iron, and
glass are very handy and very cheap, and if
mounted on turf banks with a sunk path down
the centre, they might be converted into very
useful little planthouses. They are always
useful; in winter they will shelter beds of
Violets, or will bring on beds of Lily of the
Valley, or cover choice bulbs or any other plants
requiring protection. In summer, young stove
and greenhouse plants, such as Poinsettias,
Begonias, Juaticias, Primulas, Cinerarias, &c.
may be brought on and matured for blooming in
winter. I shall have occasion to refer to the
larger use that may be made of these structures
when treating of fruit culture. So need not go
further into the matter now beyond saying that
everyone with a back yard, even if they possess
no other outlet for gardening energy, should
possess one of these handy frames, which are
made now in immense numbers to suit every
length of purse. I was about a year ago looking
over the works of Messrs. Boulton & Paul, of
Norwich, and was astonished at the immense
trade which has grown up of late years in these
and other horticultural requisites, showing how
the love of gardening is spreading among all
classes of the community, and how large
industries have been created by simply catering
for the devotees of horticulture.

E. Hobday.

be killed with ease. It must, however, be done
very carefully, or they will run back again into
their holes. This must be repeated night after
night till none are left. This is how I also
cleared our fernery, which, when I came here,
was smothered with them.—J. H.

VEGETABLES.

addition to the salad bowl, but an exceptionally
wholesome esculent. I ought, I think, to men¬
tion that Chicory, when growing in the open air,
is called Chicoree sauvage, but when blanched
as a winter salad it becomes, owing to a fancied
resemblance of the young growth to a man s
beard, Barbe de Capucin, whereas Endive is
commonly called Chicor6e. Those who may

11165 — Raising Broccoli and Cucum¬
bers.—If “ Disappointed Amateur " will select a
patch of clean fresh loam wherein to sow his
Broccoli seed, he need have little fear of failure. In
old tilled and sour garden soil the young plants
are frequently attacked with club or maggot,
which destroy the roots. If fresh loam is not at
hand, liberal dressings of soot and wood ashes
should be raked or worked into the soil, then
sow the seed very thinly in drills half inch
deep and 6 inches apart, and as soon as large
enough to handle prick out 4 inches apart until
planting time arrives. Walcheren or Veitch's
Autumn Broccoli may be sown at once, but the
later kinds, such as Leamington and Eclipse,
which form a succession, should be sown in the
last week in April or first week in May. As to
the Ridge Cucumbers, if the seed of some good
hardy kind, such as Long Prickly or Bedford
Ridge, be sown in boxes or pots in garden frame
early in April, the young plants will be ready
for planting in the open ground in a warm
situation about the last week in May. The
ground should be prepared by opening a trench
2 feet deep and the same width, and this should
be filled with hot dung, and then the soil must
be returned, thus forming ridges about a foot
above the level ground. 6 inches or 8 inches
of rich soil above manure is necessary. In a
couple of days turn the plants out of the pots
or boxes into the ridges, and sink them, basin¬
like, an inch or two. Take advantage of a warm
showery time for the operation.—W. Phillips,
Uoole , Chester.

11166.— Culture of Parsley.— There is no
difficulty in growing Parsley. A good rich loam,
well worked, with ample drainage, is a necessity.
If you would wish to obtain a supply of this
most useful herb in winter, sow seed of some
good strain at once in drills, half inch deep and
a foot apart; also sow again in July for
winter use. Of course, your supply of
Parsley in winter will depend upon the amount
of shelter you can give the plants, either by a
south wall or turning an old garden frame over
the plants. Parsley being a fleshy-rooted plant,
is sometimes liable to attacks of grub. This
may be guarded against by working a mixture
of soot and lime into the soil. — William
Phillips, Hoole , Chester.

Woodlice in Mushroom houses.—I

damp the edge of the Mushroom beds and the
floor about three o’clock with a very fine rose,
so as not to make the floor too wet, and theD
go into the house at night with a light, and find
that all the youDg-ox*es have come out after the
moisture—small &ed peatm

can then

CHICORY.

Although Chicory is known to be a wholesome
and palatable salad, it does not appear to be
grown to any great extent in English gardens
generally, the milder flavour and more attrac
tive appearance of Endive causing it to be pre
ferred. It is probable that our forefathers ate
more Chicory than we do, for I remember to
have seen in a very old gardening work elaborate
instructions for its culture; whereas even in
Abercrombie’s time it could not have been held
in much esteem, seeing that he does not even
mention it. The French have been wiser in this
respect, for although Endive may be said to be
extensively cultivated and much more largely
consumed in France than with us, being in the
true sense of the word popular, Chicory has not
been lost sight of; on the contrary, its culture
has increased in an equal ratio with that of
Endive and other salads, and varieties have been
raised, one of which, the large-rooted Chicory of
commerce, has given rise to an important in
dustry in the north of France, whilst another,
although obtained half a century ago, and
largely grown for market around Paris and other
large towns, is apparently but little known in
this country. It may encourage some to under
take the culture of Chicory to know that it is
held in high esteem by the medical fraternity in
France, and I was assured by a friend (a
chemist in a large way of business) that it is in¬
valuable as a tonic, and invariably forms an ingre¬
dient in medicines ordered in casesof debility and
impaired appetite. It is also valuable mixed in
a dried state with forage. It will thus be seen
that in Chicory we not only have a pleasant

Chicory (one-third natural dze).

object to Chicory on the score of its bitterness
will find the improved variety, of which an
illustration is here given, more to their liking.
This differs from the type in having lar^e,
entire, pale green leaves almost devoid of hairs.
It also turns in much in the way of Lettuce, and
is only slightly bitter.

Culture. —This presents no difficulty, but
one or two points attending it must be borne in
mind if good blanched produce is deaired in
winter. In the first place sowing must not be
attempted much before the middle of May, or
there will be a danger of the plants bolting
before they have attained anything like half the
size and substance which they should do. The
best way is to sow in drills 1 foot apart, thinning
out to about 6 inches apart in the rows ; the soil
should be rich and deeply stirred. The French
market gardeners add plenty of old hotbed
manure, and, what is quite as important, the
situation should be sunny, as when grown in
partial shade the roots lack substance when
taken up, and the after produce is not so crisp
as it would otherwise be. The Parisian growers
believe that heat and rich food, accompanied by
abundant moisture at the roots, is absolutely
necessary for the summer culture of this
esculent.

Blanching. —When the roots are taken upon
the approach of winter they should be stored
away in a shed, or some cool place, where they
are easily comeatable when needed; but they
should be laid in so that they do not dry or
lose any portion of their stored-up vitality. Any
warm, dark place will do to blanch them in,
such as a Mushroom house, or a tub may be
half filled with light soil laying the roots therein
and covering the top over so as to exclude light,
placing them in a warm house. Any such simple
expedient will suffice to ensure a supply of
blanched heads all through the winter. WheD,
however, first quality and some quantity is re¬
quired, there is nothing like a mild hotbed.

Improved Chicory (one-third natural size).

The gentle bottom-heat pushes the young growth
along very quickly, and the more rapid the pro¬
gress of the leaves the more tender and delicate
they are. A common way of blanching Chicory
on the Continent is to make up a hotbed in the
usual way, placing thereon a framework and
covering the same with boards, with the addi¬
tion of straw mats in severe weather.—J. C.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Marco 29 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

35

l I20t».—Pig- manure for vegetables.—
The manure would not be all in quite a fresh
state. It would, therefore, be best to turn
he heap over, mixing it well together in the
process. The night soil and poultry manure
should be mixed with it, and as the latter in¬
gredients are about as strong as guano, the
manure may be used more sparingly. If you
dig it in about 8 inches or 9 inches under the
surface it will answer well for all the vegetables
you named as well as for Potatoes.—J. D.E.

- M W. B.” wishes to grow such vege¬
tables as Leeks, Onions, Caulitiowe/s, and
Cabbages. These are all gross feeders. Mix the
fresh pig manure with the nightsoil, and also
add the poultry manure to the heap, and form a
compost. Turn it over twice, then spread on
ground and dig in deeply. If the Onion and
Leek beds were top-dressed with wood-ashes or
soot, and raked in before sowing, they would be
more likely to escape the attacks of maggot.—
William Phillips, llocle, Chester

11209.— Seed Potatoes.— If you hadspread
the Potatoes out in a light position, the shoots
they made would have been strong and of
a green colour. If they are long and weak, it is
as well to rub them off; they will sprout out
strongly in the ground, and do well. The first
shoots are the best though, and they can be
saved by spreading the tubers out in a light,
airy place, and even if they have sprouted a little
they can easily be planted in thatstate.—J. D. E.

-“ A Young Tater ” has been wrongly ad¬
vised as to how to treat his seed Potatoes. If
they are nicely sprouted, all they require to stop
them from growing too long and weakly is to
remove them into a light place free from frost;
this will stop the growth of the shoots, and cause
them to assume a green colour and become
strong and wiry. It would weaken them very
much to break off the shoots, either now or at
planting time. Your acquaintance who recom¬
mended you to do this must, indeed, be a novice
of the first water. When you want advice on
any gardening matters in future, do not go to
your friend for it.— William Phillips, Boole ,
Chester.

-If the shoots are more than 2-inches

long, or if they have been damaged in any way—
crushed at the top or loosened at the bottom—
they must be broken off, and the tuber must be
started again. This entails a loss of three weeks
or a month. Shoots are of little use on seed
Potatoes unless accompanied by rootlets round
the base. It may, however, be well to remember,
in the case of any scarce kinds, or of untried
seedlings, that the shoots broken off will take
root in gentle heat, and produce fine plants for
setting out, the tubers being thus utilised two
or three times.— Jokleton.

Best edgings for garden walks*

—Where dead edgings are employed, both for
wear and appearance, I have found nothing
better than the Staffordshire tiles with plain
rolled top. They are hard, and therefore not
Uabie to become broken by frost or a knock in
digging or kicking against them, and they are
not bo conspicuous as the notched patterns,
*hich will not bear rough usage. There is, how¬
ever, to my mind, something objectionable in
all dead edgings, and I should therefore adviseall
vhouse tiles to make the earth well up at
i toe back, and plant there either Thrift, Gentians
Sedums, SempervivnmB, Cerastium tomento-
' wo, Violets, or other suitable plants, that will
partly or entirely hide them, and make long
lines of beauty. Gentiana acaulis is lovely in
spring, and there is no placo where it looks
more at home than by the side of garden walks;
wd a dead edging forms a capital support for it,
m it likes moisture, and can drive its rootsdown
the side of the tiles and find what it wants.
Large pebble stones, however, or flints, do nearly
as well as the tiles, and in many places may be
got for next to nothing ; the stones are found in
gravelly soil, and the flints in chalk. The ground
that suits Gentians best is that which is some¬
what stiff and close, in which they flourish and
Sower in the greatest profusion. If old plants
can be got, now is the time to set to work with
fhem, as at this season they are just starting
hdo growth, and may be divided by being pulled
f N^rt, and so increased to almost to any extent,
ft* quickest and best way <5$ planting ia| to
dibble the pieces in, and wlfen so {.lib

should be pressed close, and a good watering
given immediately afterwards, so as to settle the
soil about the roots, in order that they may get
hold at once, and have a fair start. If Violets
are made use of, the Czar is the most suitable
kind; it is a strong grower, carries plenty of
foliage, and is one of the freest of bloomers.
Runners dibbled in now will soon make tine
plants that will get together during the summer,
and become crowded with flowers next spring.
Thrift prefers light land; it is a native of the
sea shore, where it iB found growing freely in
sand ; Armeria grandiflora, a seedling from A.
maritima, is the finest, but as yet plants of it
are not over plentiful. A. maritima may be had
cheap, and if the tufts are pulled apart, many
pieces may be made and long rows formed in
very quick time. Daisies also make pretty
edgiDgs, especially when the red and white are
mixed.—S.

Cure for blight— I have found the fol¬
lowing a perfect cure for blight. Add two table-
spoonfuls of soft soap to a gallon of boiling
water; syringe well with the liquid when luke
warm. In about an hour’s time syringe with
clean cold water, and you will be able to wash
all your enemies off dead. It will do the plants
no harm, as they appear of a darker and
healthier green after the application.—H. J.

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK.
Glasshouses.

Camellias making their growth must be
liberally treated with water at the root, and the
atmosphere around them should be kept moist;
during bright weather, too, a shading of some
kind must be placed over them. A good stock
of the autumn-blooming Sedum purpureum
should now be potted and placed in cold frames.
These will be found very useful for the conser¬
vatory during September. Lilies in pots should
be moved to cold frames if possible as soon as
they show above the soil; here they should be
kept with their tops close up to the glass ; the
lights should be drawn completely off during the
day—unless there is danger of the soil getting
saturated by too great a downpour of rain—put¬
ting them on again at night, but leaving them
tilted, so as to allow an abundance of air when
there is no likelihood of frost. The frames
should be placed where they will get all the sun
and light possible. If frames be not available,
instead of keeping the plants to get drawD in a
house, put them under a south wall with a
slight framework over to protect from frost,
laying the pots down on their sides when the
weather is very wet. Where a good selection of
Lilies is made they are essentially amateur’s
plants, as they afford a succession of bloom last¬
ing a considerable time, and are easily grown.
Flowering Heaths, such as Erica Cavendishi and
the different varieties of E. ventricosa, must not
be allowed to suffer from the want of water now
when the flowers are formed, otherwise many
of them will not come to perfection. Choro-
zemas, Eriostemons, and other free-growing
plants, should be slightly pruned now when they
have finished blooming, and should receive a
liberal shift, when they will soon start into free
growth again and quickly make large specimens.

Flower Garden.

All beds or borders that have been manured
and dug up roughly will now be ia excellent
condition for planting, and should be forwarded
as far as possible by planting edgings of some
hardy or partially hardy plants now so much
used for that purpose, more especially succulents
that have been wintered in cold frames, the
spaces thus vacated being now required for
hardening off plants of a tender character.
Avoid cold draughts in the case of all plants
recently removed from warm structures, and
only use water that has been chilled, as plants
of all kinds are even more liable to injury from
sudden changes or chills at the root than from
anything that can happen to the top growth.
Sowings may now be made of Sweet Peas, Con¬
volvulus major, Tropmolums of various sorts,
Mignonette, and many kinds of annuals. See
that recently-transplanted trees and shrubs are
securely staked, and avoid the necessity for much
water at the root by a timely application of a
mulching of some kind, for the sun’s rays are
powerful, and east winds extract moisture from
the soil very rapidly.

Herbaceous borders. —The majority of the
plants having pushed through the mulching, the
pointing up and general dressing of the beds
must be proceeded with. By thiB time Phloxes,
Pentstemons, Carnations, Pinks, Primulas, and
old plants of Hollyhocks wintered in pots in
cold pits will have been hardened off, and the
weather continuing favourable, planting may be
proceeded with, in order to make room for
Auriculas, Carnations, tender Primulas, and
other things recently shifted into their blooming
pots. The planting should be performed when
the soil is in good working order, and small
sprays of Spruce or Yew shelter from bright sun
and cutting winds. On warm soils, the planting
of Gladiolus will be well advanced, but in cold,
damp localities the first half of April is quite
early enough. The only implement that should
be recognised in herbaceous borders is a four-
tined steel fork, and if one be obtainable that
has seen some service all the better, as it will be
in every way more suited for the work than a
new one. All that is necessary in the way of
digging will be to turn in the manure which was
put on in winter to a depth of 3 inches, or just
sufficient to get it covered with soil.

Hardy Ferns. —These will now be pushing
up their young fronds, and where well sheltered
from spring frosts, should at once have any
protection, such as Bracken or any similar
covering, removed from their crowns. If their
winter covering be allowed to remain on after
they once make a start, it is almost impossible
to remove it without damaging the young
growth, the effects of which will be seen for the
rest of the season. In the case of the more tender
varieties this may be replaced by a mulching of
half-decayed leaves, which will not only afford
the necessary protection now, but will be of
great benefit during the summer by giving a
gentle stimulus to the roots besides keeping
them in a uniform state as to moisture. As the
fronds protrude through this they should have
the additional shelter of a few branches of ever
greens stuck round them, so as to ward off cut
ting winds and late spring frosts, that would
otherwise be fatal to the young growth. Even
the hardiest are very liable to injury just as
they are unfolding their fronds, and therefore
the site for the outdoor fernery should be as
sheltered as possible. Where it is desired to
divide and increase any, or to effect a re-arrange¬
ment, now is the best time to commence such
operations, as at no season do Ferns transplant
so readily, and with so little check to their
future development, as when they are just be¬
ginning to grow. In dividing them, it should be
done with a sharp instrument, making a clean
cut right through the roots. See that each piece
has a separate crown, or that the fleshy roots of
such as creep under the surface have the neces¬
sary eyes to push into growth. Where peat is
not easily accessible in sufficient quantity to
mix with the loam for the purpose of planting
the more choice kinds, it may be substituted by
a good dressing of leaf-soil, which answers
almost equally well. If the latter can be ob¬
tained in sufficient quantities to top-dress each
of the plants they will be materially benefited.

Beds of Carnations and Picotees may still be
planted. When getting the plants from the
nursery it is best to state that they are required
for open-air culture; many varieties are weak
growers, and do not succeed so well in the open
ground as they do in pots. Pansies are now
growing freely. If it is intended to have a good
display six weeks or so after this, all early
flowers must be picked off, and the stems must
also be pegged down as they increase in growth.
Stir the surface of the ground if required.
Phloxes, Delphiniums, Ac., are now making
rapid growth, and sticks must be placed to the
stems to prevent them from being snapped by
the wind. A large plant of a Delphinium may
throw up a dozen or a score of stems ; many of
the weaker ones may be removed; but, by care¬
fully training out the stems, and supporting two
or three by means of astoutish stick, six or eight
sticks may be required for one plant—a better
plan than binding up the whole like a faggot,
with one stick in the centre. Phloxes are treated
in the same way.

Lawns. —For newly-seeded lawns bone-dust,
fresh loam, or thoroughly rotted manure may be
used with great advantage, while for fining tho
quality of Grass on rich soils a sowing of soot,
finely sifted ashes, or burnt earth will be found
most suitable. The constant Jmowing'Qf^awns

36

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[March 29 1884

■ i

dens, Ac, the case is different. I recommended
simply a dab or two of tar, bnt “ Rusticus " ga*s
a good sousing to his captive, and no doubt, u
happened to one of mine, he perished in his na
or burrow. However, the sappers and miners d
his troop were not thus to be outdone, and they
quickly made a new departure and lecovered i
their position. There was then nothing for it
but to dig up the flowers of that part of the
parterre and place tarred flags and slates all
along the assailable ground. I did so, and gav
no more of them ; and latterly, in a different
yard ^ind garden, this process has succeeded.
Yet, nothing so scares rats as cats, and by set¬
ting one nuisance against another, the former
soon seek other fields for their ravages.-
M. W. R. _

ROSES.

Election of Rosea.— Many readers of
Gardening, I am sure, would, with myself, lilt
to thank Mr. Walters, “Sam,” and others
who have so kindly given their advice witi
regard to the selection and growing of Rost,
and who have them, as Canon Hole writes, “net
only in their gardens, but in their hearts.’ I
am, like “ K. W.,” somewhat disappointed to read
the list of the Rose election of 1883, and for
this reason. Eight years ago I planted a small
Marshal Neil in the front of my house (fating
south), two years later it had grown consider
ably, and 1 had some very fine blooms there
from. It now covers a large area, blooming
each year most profusely, and I cut hundreds
of very handsome flowers from it. Last year a?
late as November I had several really good
blooms, and this January have cut two. Three
years ago I was told it had canker, and would
die, my informant charitably characterising
Marshal Niel as a short-lived Rose. Of course,
there are always croakers, and I determined not
to lose my Rose without a struggle. I there¬
fore got some rough boards put round and filled
in with fresh mould. I found it then made
some new roots, and it is now as flourishing a?
ever. I frequently cut from it in the summer
eighty or ninety Roses at one time. It had no
protection during the winter of 1880-81, when
the frost was so severe and the snow laid so long,
with the exception of a slight mulching of i
manure at the roots; but I must here observe
the overhanging eaves give a top protection. I
am altogether proud of my Mar6chal, and disap¬
pointed in not seeing it included in 1883 elec¬
tion. I wish to encourage all amateurs (like
myself) if possible, and I would press on tbcc
to include in their list of Roses Mardch&l Niel.

I am pleased to say I have over sixty Hose
trees out-of-doors, besides some two dozen in
pots under glass, all planted with my own hand-
and loved accordingly.—S. P.

11169.— Greenhouse Roses.— “ J. H. p *
requires information as to pruning and treating
his greenhouse Roses, which he says consist of
the following kinds. Cheshunt Hybrid, Rere
d’Or, Gloire de Dijon, Niphetos, Perle de Jardin.
and General Jacqueminot. The first five being
Teas, require different treatment from the latter,
which belongs to the Hydrid Perpetuals. The
pruning of the Teas should consist in taking oat
any weak shoots entirely, and very slightly
shortening some of the over-vigorous ones. Gene¬
ral Jacqueminot will bear cutting back to, say.
three good eyes on the strongest shoots. Now is
the time to operate on them. Cut in the Heliotrope
sufficient to cause bushy growth and young
wood, and repot when needed.—W. Philijw,
Hoole, Chester.

will now require regular attention, and, assuming
that the machines are in working order, a
thorough sweeping and rolling will greatly
facilitate and improve the appearance of the
work, while it saves the newly-set knives from
strain or iojury at the outset. Get all edgings
pared or clipped, remove weeds, and face the
walks with new gTavel where requisite. Where
salt is used for the destruction of weeds a supply
should be in store, ready for sowing in dry
weather as soon as the seeds which dropped last
autumn have germinated.

Fruit.

Vines.— At the present time, perhaps the
most important matter connected with late
Vines, which will now be starting into rapid
growth, is to be certain that the borders have
had a sufficiency of water to thoroughly moisten
them throughout—a not very easy matter,
taking into account the long time that water
has had to be withholden from them, more par¬
ticularly in cases where the Grapes were left to
hang on the Vines; therefore, if any doubt
exists as to deficiency on this score, fork down
to the very bottom of the borders in one or two
places that seem likely to be the driest, and if
the soil on being pressed in the hand does not
adhere, then water is still required. Mulch the
borders thinly with stable litter, and keep up a
humid temperature of 60° in the coldest
weather; and whenever it is sunny give air
early, and as carefully as if for early Vines,
closing up by 2.30 with a renewed application
of humidity, when if 85° are reached, the Vines
will revel in the extra warmth. Disbud as soon
as the best bunches can be discerned, leaving
two shoots on each spur in the case of old Vines,
but one only in the case of young and vigorous
ones. Those in flower, Muscats more particu¬
larly, demand hourly attention to secure a good
“ set.” If a circulation of warm, dry air, to dis¬
turb the pollen, could at all times be maintained,
artificial fertilisation would be best left alone;
but as this is impossible (at all events in spring,
when biting easterly winds are the rule), it is
best to resort to artificial aid, which should be
used when the highest temperature has been
attained. The removal of surplus bunches before
blossoming rather than after that period would
tend to ensure a better " set.” Lateral growths
should be left intact till after the fruit is set.
Grapes that are stoning should be kept at as
equal a temperature as possible—say 65° at
night and 75° by day, declining proportionately
in exceptionally cold weather. A moderately
humid, ammonia-charged atmosphere should
still be maintained, but as the Grapes approach
the saccharine state, moisture should be gradually
withheld.

Hardy fruit.— The present, as far as fruit
culture is concerned, is the most critical period
of the whole year, for a single night’s frost may
do a large amount of in j ary; hence the import¬
ance of adopting preventive measures to ward
off frost, let the cost of labour to do so be what
it may. Evergreen boughs and Birch or Hazel
spray, straw, or hay bands, netting or canvas
fixed to short poles, are all handy and effective
protectors for walls that have not—as walls
should have—proper movable blinds. Small
bushes, lines of cordons, and espaliers can be
protected in the same way as wall fruits, the
labour of doing so being by no means so formid¬
able as one might imagine. Where there are
movable curtains to walls, they should be kept
down during bright sunshine, to retard the
opening of the blossoms in hopes that the ad¬
vanced season may bring freedom from frost when
the flowers are fully expanded ; and, no matter
what the weather may be, the coverings should
be let down nightly, and on frosty mornings be
allowed to remain down for some time after the
sun shines, and during the prevalence of keen
east and north-easterly winds they should also
be left down.

Vegetables.

The earliest Potatoes will soon be above ground,
and vigilance will be required to keep the soil
well drawn over them till the haulm gets too
high for this being done, when stable litter or
Bracken shaken lightly over them will form an
efficient protection against any ordinary frost.
In dry weather the hoe is a great economiser of
labour, and at this early season, though the
weeds are barely discernable, it should be in full
swing among all growing crops, such as Spinach,
Cabbage, Brocco|LLe^tUjjes, jR^fsIey, when

it will both aid growth and destroy weeds. In
the event of showery weather, a sharp look-out
for slugs will be requisite, or Cauliflowers, Let¬
tuces, and similar plants will soon disappear.
The best trap for these is bran put down in small
heaps, of about a tablespoonful each, near the
plants, early in the morning and late at night.
On this they will be found feeding, and can be
destroyed. Lime, soot, and wood ashes all more
or less deter them, but bran is the best remedy.
It is yet rather soon to sow the general stock of
Broccoli and Kales, not but what they would do
best if sown now and grown on without check ;
but, as oftener than not they have to be planted
on land that has been cropped with early Peas
or Potatoes, the plants are apt to get stunted
ere the ground is at liberty for them, so it is
best to sow late; still, the early kinds should
now be sown, and also a few Savoys and Scotch
Kale. We usually sow thinly in drills 1 foot
apart, and then no transplanting, other than the
final one, is required. Potatoes, Carrots, and
Radishes in frames should be well aired—indeed,
on bright days the lights should now be entirely
off; more water will also be required, and a
spindly growth of Carrots and Radishes pre¬
vented by timely thinning.

Late Peas.— In the majority of soils these
are best sown in trenches made something simi¬
lar to those for Celery. It is an advantage to
have the trenches prepared a month or six weeks
before it is necessary to sow the Peas, especially
if the summer should turn out to be dry. In
gardens, however, where close and continuous
cropping must be adopted, it is often requisite
that late Peas should follow Broccoli or some
other crops, that cannot be removed till just
before the ground is required for the Peas, and
in that case, if it is possible to clear off a row
here and there at suitable intervals apart, it
will be advisable to do so. In planting the
Broccoli, by marking where the Pea rows will
come, and at each of those places planting a row
of some kind of Broccoli that will turn in during
March or April, making some little allowance
for the variation of the seasons, this might easily
be done. In preparing trenches for Peas, they
should be, if possible, from 15 inches to 18 inches
wide and 1 foot deep, and from 4 inches to 6 inches
of manure should be placed in the bottom of them,
and thoroughly incorporated with the next foot of
soil beneath. Some portion of the soil taken
out should then be returned, in order that the
trench may not be more than 6 inches below the
level of the surrounding soil. This will be ample
for watering, and deeper trenches only lessen
the depth of soil available for the roots of the
plants. The thorough and deep incorporation
of the manure in the bottom of the trenches is,
however, an important matter, as it tends to
encourage the roots to descend beyond the in¬
fluence of heat and drought, and, consequently,
they are rendered less liable to the attacks of
mildew. Where sticks are easily obtained, tall
Peas are better than dwarf ones, and Ne Plus
Ultra of tall kinds, and British Queen, are still
two of the best, and for late use th6y may be
planted in quantities at intervals of a fortnight
from May 1 till the middle of June.

Cucumbers. —Bearing plants should be gone
over three times a week, for the purpose of
stopping, thinning, and regulating the growths,
as the quality of the fruit depends in a great
measnre upon the full and healthy development
of the foliage. Encourage the formation of roots
by keeping up a bottom-heat of 80° to 85° and
frequent top-dressings with good compost, some¬
what heavier than that recommended for winter
use. Water well with good diluted liquid some
degrees warmer than the bed, and fill the evapo¬
rating pans with it two or three times a week.
It will be necessary to syringe twice a day,
wetting every available surface, as a means of
keeping the plants in health and free from in¬
sects, to avoid shading if the fruit can he kept
from scalding, and to keep the interior of the
house clean and free from all decaying matter.
Sowings may now be made of ridge and other
hardy kinds for planting out after Potatoes and
under hand-glasses.

Rats In fernery.— My remarks on the
destruction of these in a late number of Gar¬
dening Illustrated seem to have been mis¬
understood. It would never do to poison rats
or mice in a dwelling house. The odour of their
decomposition would be intolerable, but in gar.

11168.—Shrubs under trees to form a
fence.—As “ B. A. N.” desires to grow a li«
screen between his grounds and the public road,
he should select large established plants of oval-
leaved or evergreen Privet, and he will not have
to wait long for the desired screen ; of course,
liberal treatment will be necessary in the way or
manure, as the Privet is a gross feeder ana ?,
very free-rooting plant, and generally succeeds
well in the smoky atmosphere of towns and tho ir
suburbs. Purchase some plants 4 feet in height,
and put them in without delay. — Willie
Phillips, Hoole , Chester.

11210.— Black Thorn failing.— Probably the gronnd
requires draining ; if so, drain it, and dust the tre»
thickly with quicklime alien they are wet. Agood®*T
i ing of lime spread over the ground would do grestg? 0 ' •

| Thu trees like ft, ai‘,d:finery ® acn '

’ RBANA CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

AN ITALIAN GARDEN IN SURREY".
he accompanying little sketch was taken last
jmrner in the garden of Lord Arthur Russell,
ear Shere, in Sarrey. We think it may interest
ur readers, as showing how a plain brick wall
nd a few hardy plants can, with very little
rouble or expense, be made to look pleasing and
riginaL The effect intended is a reminiscence
>f Italy. This is here done by means of a
K'Tjola of wooden beams, with one end resting
<n the top of the wall and the other on uprights,
ind by a square brick tank. Add a plain pedi-
nent to the wall, and you have one of those
ountains which the traveller so often meets
rith in Italy. In the present case a fine terra
*otta mask by Mr. Boehm is fixed to the wall,
md feeds the basin from a rain-water cistern.
)n the left of the fountain we found the Italian
’ane (Arundo Donax) growing to a height of
' feet or 10 feet: also Bambusa Metake, Arun-
linaria Falconeri, and Carex pendula. Among
be plants on the right were the large Cottage
Balsam, the Giant Tobacco, and the Giant Sow
rhistle (Sonchus palustris), a British plant,
growing to a height of 6 feet. Climbing on the
•earns were the large-leaved Aristolochia and
Vitis Isabella, a sort of Foxgrape much used in
> arm any as an ornamental creeper. We suggest
hat a clump or two of maize would much add
to the southern charac¬
ter of the nook. There
- no doubt that much
:ould in this way be

uictnresqueness to

Lian garden which ac-
omp&nies the palatial H
villa, with its terraces,

know, and it is to be
found here and there

we should like to see
more often attempted
are the common, and

dwellings, by the use
of stone walls instead

garden is not pictur-

tation is luxuriant, no¬
thing can surpass a real
English garden, but

in such high and dry, sandy and sunny gardens
a3 are found among the lovely commons of
Sarrey, we say—try the popular Italian garden ;
try to make an Italian vignette of an arid corner.
If creepers will not smother your wall, then cut
an archway through it; place a well-shaped pot
over the archway, with an Aloe or a Yucca in it;
plant Honse Leeks, Wallflowers, Snapdragons,
and Linaria in every crevice, and when the sun
shines you will envy no one. Those among our
readers who know the lovely gardens of the
various royal palaces and farms of Potsdam,
with their wonderful southern character, will
understand our enthusiasm for these effects.
Potsdam was embellished by the late King
Frederick William IV. (brother of the present
Emperor), who cared more for horticulture than
for war, and who was, therefore, in no high
repute among the Prussians. He visited Italy
whenever he could, and made sketches there
himself, which he carried out ha his northern
wd sandy Potsdam with a success which all
irtists and all gardeners admire.

under each bush with a good layer of spent tan,
3 inches thick at least, extending as far as the
branches spread. This will prevent the fly from
rising out of the ground. In years past I have
had my bushes completely denuded of leaves. In
1882 I was nearly free of the pest, and last year
quite so, which I attribute to the dressing of
tan. Should they make their appearance, not¬
withstanding the dressing of tan, repeated
syringing with a solution or two ounces of soft-
soap to a pail of water is a great help, but it is
an imperfect cure, as the young caterpillars
being always on the underneath surface of the
leaves, are somewhat difficult to get at.— R. B. S.

- Spread a thick coating of spent tanner’s

bark underneath the bushes at once. A good
plan is to take a spade and remove about 3 inches
or 4 inches of the soil from under the bushes
during the winter to another part of the garden,
replacing it with some good soil from the vege¬
table quarters. The soil from the Gooseberry
trees ought to be trenched down a good depth.
As a further precaution, spread some spent tan
under the bushes in February.—J. D. E.

11214.—Vine leaves falling off.— When
you say the heat is 70°, it is taken for granted
that you mean the night temperature. If so, 5°
less would be better. As the border is inside
probably the roots do not get enough water. The

Too much air cannot be given after they are
established in the 4^-inch pots. It would be ad¬
visable to grow a few for flowering in the winter,
so choose what you require for that purpose and
pot into 6-inch pots, using rather more loam
than leaf-mould, and add a little charcoal
broken into small pieces to help to keep the soil
porous, others that you would have flower in the
4^-inch pots give them a little artificial manure.
As the double varieties do not produce seed
freely, I would strongly advise the buying of a
good plant from some nursery which could be
increased by pegging the growths down towards
the edge of the pot, filling up with soil sufficient
just to cover a portion of the shoot that is pegged
down; place the plant in a warm house and
when rooted take off the cuttings and put in
small pots, using soil similar to that recommen¬
ded for the single varieties; replace them in a
warm honse till they show signs of growing
freely, when the after treatment is in all repects
similar to the single varieties.—J. Hinton.

11220.— Arum Lily not flowering.—
It is for the want of rest this plant does not
flower. As soon as the plant has completed its
growth, dry it down gradually, and as soon as it
can be done with safety and surety from frost,
say in May or June, shake the plant out of its
1 pot, and all soil from its roots. Cut away the
roots to within 2 inches
mm --—_ of its crown; plant it
out in the garden in
some light, rich soil.

will be seen of it for
six or seven weeks.
Then it will begin to
push its way through
gf v . * the surface soil again.

As soon as the leaves
begin to unfold them-
selves, lift it carefully
WirJl with a good ball of

jr f PI earth, damaging the

* '* )0t8 as iitt * e * as ^° s ‘

quire a 6-inch or 7-inch

good loam and a little
silver sand, and one
part good rotten ma-
onre. Placeitinasome-
S what shady and close

pit or frame till esta-
blished ; it can then be
taken to a cool green-
house and there remain.
As 80011 ** the pot is
well filled with roots
give it a 6hift into a pot
a 6ize larger. When
again established, wa¬
ter once or twice a week with liquid manure,
or sprinkle the surface with artificial manure
occasionally and water it in. When treated in
this way I have never known the Arum Lily to
fail. By forcing you can have the plants in
flower at Christmas, but if left to themselves in
a cool greenhouse they will flower from February
till after Easter.— Geo. Harris.

-This plant should be grown in very rich

soil. Leave it in the pot it is in until the end of
May, and plant it out-of-doors in rich soil.
They do best in Celery trenches. About the
end of September the plant will be strong
enough to repot in an 8-inch pot. Do not let
it want for water during the summer.—J.D.E.

11221.— Fine-leaved Begonias.— When
these plants develop long, lanky stems, it is
best to cut the tops of some of them and put
them in as cuttings. They will soon form roots
in a little bottom heat. If you have nothing
bat the greenhouse, it will be better not to do
this for a month yet. The middle of Apiil is a
good time to repot them.—J. D. E.

11226.— Plants under greenhouse
stage.—Ferns would be the beat plants for this ;
and Farfugium grande does well. The surface
of the bed could be made green by encouraging
Lycopodium denticulatum to grow over it. Las-
trea Standishi, and the best forms of our own
male Fern, L. Filix-mae. do well. Polystichum
angulare in variety are also excellent for th
purpose; the variety proliferum is one of the

An Italian Corner In a Surrey Garden.

leaves may have been caught by the sun, owing
to the ventilators not being opened early
enough. You ought to find out whether there is
any defect in the drainage, and by examining
the border you can also ascertain whether it is
too wet or too dry.—J. D. E.

Culture of Chinese Primroses.— That
the Chinese Primrose (Primula sinensis) is
regarded as among the most popular of flowering
plants is not to be wondered at, seeing how
valuable it is for decorative purposes, either in
the greenhouse, conservatory, or sitting room. A
simple mode of cultivation is given in the
following remarks. Procure a packet of seed
and sow at once. Commence by draining the
pan well and use soil composed of loam, leaf-
mould, and sand sifted through a fine sieve.
Give the soil a good watering before sowing the
seed. After sowing cover the seed very lightly,
and place in a temperature of 55° to 60°. Great
care is necessary in raising Primulas ; I find it
best to keep the pan covered with paper or Moss,
till the seedlings appear. When the seedlings
are large enough to handle, pot them singly in
3-inch pots and return them to a warm honse,
keeping them shaded and as close to the glass a6
possible; give them a shift into 4£-inch pots as
the plants require it, and remove them to a cold
l£t, keeping it close for a few days, after which
^air should be given on all favourable occasions

.‘1231. -Gooseberry trees and oater-

piUara.—The chrysalis of the Gooseberry-fly re-
s&ins in the earth under the bushes during the
wuam and winter. The fly emerges from the
^ryialig in the warm spring weather, and lays
JJ* on the under side of tile ^oung leaves.
R* best plan will be at once fb cqyfer JL ie aferll i

38

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[March 29, 1884.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

11212.—Hyacinths after flowering.—
After these have flowered in glasses, they are
scarcely worth looking after. Doubtless your
plants have been indoors, and the leaves are so
tender that they cannot at once be placed out-
of-doors. The only way is to plant them close
together in fine sandy soil in a frame. It is not
necessary to shade cuttings that are being struck
in water. You should tie a small ball of decayed
Moss round the base of each cutting. The
roots will run into the Moss, and the young
plants can be more easily planted in fine soil
with the tuft of roots and Moss attached to
them.—J. D. E.

1121l—Chrysanthemum cuttings.—
You are bringing up the young plants too
tenderly. They are perhaps too far removed
from the glass. It is best to pot off the young
plants singly in small pots as soon a3 they are
rooted. The best potting material is good rich
loam, to which has been added a small portion of
crushed bones, leaf-mould, and rotten stable
manure. Do not turn them out-of-doors until
May.—J. D. E.

11233.— Chinese Primulas.—A cold frame with
its back to the south is the best place for these during
the summer. The lights may be removed almost entirely
during the day.—J. D. E.

11219.— Repotting Heliotropes.— Tke plan
ought to be repotted in an 8£-inch pot.—J. D. E.

sound. The large bulbs we put G inches apart
in the frame and the small ones 4 inches. We
keep the frame closed and give no water until
the young growths are seen peeping through the
soil. On cold nights mats are placed on the
frame to keep ont frost; we find about the
second week in April that the young growths
begin to come through, and then a little air is
given on mild days, and sufficient water is
supplied as often as it is required to keep the
soil moist. As growth advances more air is
given until the season is so far advanced as to
allow the lights to be taken off during the day¬
time. In a general way I may say that we begin
to take off the lights about the middle of May.
We do this to induce a short, sturdy growth and
to get the plants gradually inured to the air.
For bedding purposes they do not want any
coddling, because they are not more tender than
the majority of plants used for summer bedding.
Prepared in this way I have no hesitation in
saying that we have no other tender plants used
for the summer decoration of the flower garden
that can equal these Begonias for creating a
solid mass of flower in so short a time after
being planted out. I put out my plants last
year on the 1st of June, and in a fortnight after
that date they were in full flower, and continued
in that state all the summer. It is only right I
should say that I have tried plants raised from
seed early in the year, and carefully nursed them

selves of fading flowers; and any attempt u
pinch them or otherwise interfere with thar
growth will injure them. In an ordinary summe
and in a suitable soil they will thrive wither
the aid of the watering pot. In a word, it a
only necessary to plant fair-sized well-prepar*
plants as just advised in order to sccnre ds
most satisfactory results. C.

BEDDING FORMS OF TAGETES.

The pretty dwarf Tagetes, of which the annexe
is an illustration, is a variety that owes it*
existence to unceasing care in selection. That
is nothing specially striking in the individual
flowers, which are small and insignificant, bn
the decorative charm or effect of the variety is
found not only in its dwarfness, but in the
wondrous abundance with which the flowers «*
produced. The colour, too—a bright orange-
gives a hue that is singularly striking either it
lines or in masses, and, allied to the ease and
cheapness with which the plants can be raised,
renders it at once one of the most popular ari
effective of bedding plants. It was raised it
Messrs. Carter k Co.’s seed farms at Dedhan.lt
is the glory of all the tender Marigolds, allmeto-
bers of the Tagetes family, that once beginning
to flower, cease not to produce bloom inces¬
santly until frost finally destroys it. It is tha
feature which makes the single-flowered forms of

Dwarf bedding Tagetes.

TUBEROUS BEGONIAS FOR BEDDING.
That these Begonias should prove unsatisfactory
as bedding plants when selected without due
regard to the purpose for which they are required
is to me a matter of no surprise, because amongst
this important class of plants may be fonnd
varieties and forms suitable for almost any pur¬
pose if judiciously selected. Many admirably
suited for exhibition plants are useless as
bedders, and varieties which make admirable
bedders would make but indifferent exhibition
plants. For all practical purposes the different
types may be divided into three, viz., the strong
and erect growers as exhibition plants; those
with a drooping habit for hanging baskets ; and
between these two there is an intermediate type
suitable for outdoor decoration. It is of this
class I wish to speak, but I may state at the
outset that in some respects my experience of
Begonia? as bedding plants has been disappoint¬
ing. I have had my seed from the best sources,
and although I have raised a large number of
plants, not more than one-third of the number
have been adapted for garden decoration; they,
in fact, comprised a fair proportion of the three
types just enumerated. To speak plainly, only
those with an intermediate growth and which
produce red or crimson flowers are of any use as
bedding plants. This I learned early in the days
of Begonia culture, and I have not yet seen
sufficient reason to alter my opinion. Unless
one goes in for saving one’s own seed and raising
one’s own plants it is impossible to form a fair
estimate of the value of tuberous Begonias as
bedders. Plants raised from ordinary mixed
seed as received from seedsmen, although well
worth conservatory culture, are useless when
planted out in the open ground, and where
Begonias have failed as bedding plants it is plain
that the selection of unsuitable varieties has
been the cause. My own practice has been to
save my own seed and raise my own plants. I
have made it a point to avoid all colours except
crimsons and reds, and I have been careful to
Secure seed prom plants of moderate
height, and with a neat, compact habit. I have
always sown it as soon as ripe, which is generally
about the middle of August. Seeds sown at that
time will produce bulbs next spring about the
size of large Marrow Peas. These are grown the
next summer in cold frames, where they produce
bnlbs large enough to bed out the following
year. From this time little management is
needed. About the middle of March a two-light
frame is placed on a hard bottom in the frame
ground, facing south. A depth of about 9 inches
of soil is then placed in the frame; in this the
bulbs are planted, and I may here state that we
take our bulbs from the floor of a house in which
only just enough fire heat is used all the winter
to keep ont frost; to this place they are taken
in autumn when they are lifted from the beds,
and we take no further notice of them until
spring, when always find taenj plump and

Uigjfizea by IC

on until bedding-out time, but, compared with
one-year-old plants treated on the cold principle,
they are nowhere.

Planting the beds.— This much it may
perhaps be necessary to say, that although the
Begonia does not like fresh, strong manure, its
growth is much stronger and more lasting when
the soil is fairly deep, somewhat light in texture,
and made rather rich by incorporating with it
some thoroughly rotten manure, and where
practicable it is best to manure the beds in the
autumn. When ready for planting we take a
fork and lift the plants carefully out of the bed
of soil, place them on a hand-barrow, and carry
them to where they are wanted. When planting,
the crowns should not be placed more than an
inch under the surface, and as Begonias are fine
rooting subjects, the soil about the bulbs should
be made rather fine. Avoid too thick planting.
When I first began bedding out Begonias I made
a serious mistake in planting them too thickly ;
the consequence was there was not room for the
development of lateral growth, and the result
was the plants did not show their true character.
Instead of branching outward they made upward
growth, which caused them to reach a height
much greater than they would have done had
they had more room in which to extend their
side growth. To prevent any disappointment in
this matter it should be understood that my
plants are large, with four and five stems rising
from the bulbs. Amongst the many thousands
of bedding plants that we put out every year
not one gives so little trouble as these Begonias.
They require no stopping; they divest theitf-J

Tagetes pumila so effective. They are certain
from the first to bloom continuously, and if of a
well-selected strain, to preserve the much desired
uniformity of height. In spite of this well known
flowering quality, however, we find some of the
dwarfer Tagetes used with admirable effect as
foliaged plants, the pretty and elegantly cat
leafage proving useful in furnishing green car
pets for taller plants. Rich soil helps to prodace
an excess of leafage, because the Tagetes, and
indeed all the Marigold family, prefer soil that
is poor rather than rich, as that is conducive to
bloom. Of the double-flowered varieties patnla
nana is perhaps the best, and it is grown
largely in northern districts, where outdoor
tender flowers are necessarily short lived. In
common parlance, all the best known of the
Tagetes family are called Marigolds, and thus we
hear of Africans, tall and giant flowered, and of
French kinds, dwarf and variously flowered,
but none know them ordinarily by their botanical
appellations. It would be hardly fair to these fine
double varieties to class them with the single if
abundantly flowered bedding Tagetes, because
the Marigold is a florists’ flower, and displays in
a very marked degree the improvement which
the florists have made on what, like the bedding
Tagetes of the illustration, must once have been
very poor siDgle flowers. This feature is in no
flower perhaps more marked than in the huge
yellow and orange African varieties, as in these
the petals are indeed wonderfully dense and al¬
most countless. As the finest double strains
still, and probably always will, give us some
singlsi flowers, we can, wilbout leaving it to the

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

March 29 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

39

pagination, gain a pretty exact idea of what is
be difference between a single and doable
ower of the African Marigold. Probably no
Ian* grown shows this difference more forcibly,
art her still, perhaps no doable flower presen ts
more marked contrast to the single form, which
* by reason of the comparison rendered weedy
.nd insignificant. Let the rage for single flowers
income ever so furious, we shall never see single
African Marigold blooms preferred to the grand
louble ones, and which all who see them,
specially in the cool antamn, so mach admire.
Probably few gardeners, even though ever so
enthusiastic for the gaady yellow hue, have yet
planted a big bed of African Marigolds. It is
Arorth a trial, especially if in a position where the
wind does not play too fiercely. Theeffectof abig
mass of glorious yellows in diverse shades seen in
the doll autumn evenings amidst a setting of
heavy greens, would be such as to make the
aesthetic rejoice, and the gardener who was so bold
to determine to go and try again. The striped
French Marigold has furnished the most popu¬
lar of the family for the florist, and it must be
admitted that of double flowers few can excel
a really good specimen in form, fulness, or in
perfection of markings. From the best strain
ever grown there will not always come perfectly
marked flowers, for the striping is always some¬
what erratic; but some flowers will be as finely
striped as possibly can be, and will be of good
doable form. The florist still prefers for the
production of his exhibition flowers the tall and
most rambling habited strain ; but for all gene¬
ral purposes, and specially for pot culture or
bedding or for ordinary decorative uses, the
dwarf or compact-habited varieties are best, and
of these some produce handsomely striped,
others rich chestnut, others clear yellow or
orange flowers, and so on, and the amount of
variety very much enhances the beauty found in
plants that are so wondrously floriferous. D.

Seedling Pentstemons. — No hardy
perennial seeds more freely, none are more
easily raised from seed than the Pentstemon,
and here at once are conditions of success in
culture that merit the attention of all who have
gardens. Those who prefer the beautiful to the
mere botanical will find in a bed of seedling
l entstemons, raised from any good strain (and
it ought to be difficult to get a bad strain just
now), much variety in colour, and such grand
spikes of flowers as will be productive of great
satisfaction. During the past few years the
named kinds of the Pentstemon have almost
disappeared, for the simple reason that seed¬
lings are as good as the parents, and therefore
it is useless to propagate by cuttings, and at
considerable trouble, sorts that can be almost
duplicated from any packet of seeds. Having
got some seed that is good, sow in a box or pan
in a frame or greenhouse during the month of
April, and when the seedlings are a few inches
in height plant them out in the borders or in a
mass in a bed. No matter in what position they
may be they are gay, but if a bed can be
devoted to them to flower the next year instead
of scarlet Pelargoniums, the grower will find,
1 have every reason to believe, that the sacrifice
(if sacrifice it be) has been more than amply
repaid.—A.

Gardening in the north— When I first
attempted to grow flowers myself, I was like
many others, very ignorant and unsuccessful;
however, a kind friend lent me a volume of
Gardening, and in its pages I found all the
help and direction needed. Ever si nee I have taken
the work myself, and, thanks to its wise and
practical instructions, am fast becoming a suc¬
cessful gardener. Mr. Sweet’s “Scottish ex¬
perience ” has been intensely interesting; but,
alas, we look upon him as very well off, for, as
everything goes by comparison, he is quite a
"Southron” to us in from 60° to 61° N. Lat.—
m near the North Pole that we would be frozen
vere it not for the gentle influences of the Gulf
stream. In spite of difficulties, we make a
valiant struggle to aid Dame Nature, and suc¬
ceed in growing many beautiful flowers. Gladiolus
cardinalis, for instance, which Mr. Sweet finds
difficult to keep, does well in some gardens here,
ind Leucojum vernum grows in some places
kke a weed. I mention this last, as another cor¬
espondent from Cheshire says it does not
neceed in what we Polar Be»rs-,would consi pler
1 glorious climate. Our case islhie, v

more from damp than frost, teo mild winters
are generally followed by killing winds and
frost in spring, wind being, I should
say, our cruellest enemy, as from our in¬
sular position we are wind-swept perpetually,
and from every point of the compass in turn.
Mr. Sweet preaches sweetly on the text “There
is that giveth and yet increaseth.” I deeply
sympathise with what he says, and will mention
one out of many experiences I have had of its
truth. I had a magnificent hedge of Carter’s
Sweet Pea in my garden last summer, and as it
is said to be difficult to grow here, I was very
proud of my success, and as it was rare, lovely,
and sweetly scented, I gave away baskets full
to friends, rich and poor, and the more I cut the
more it flowered, and grew a mass of colour and
sweetness until cut down by autumn winds.—
A Polar Bear, Shetland.

China Asters as out flowers.— In addi¬
tion to the many merits of the Aster as a decora¬
tive plant for gardens and as a pot plant, it is
exceedingly useful for supplying cut flowers in
the autumn, the flowers being exceptionally well
adapted for harvest festivals and other decora¬
tions. The plan I find answer well is to sow the
seed at this time under glass in light, sandy
soil, drawing drills about 6 inches apart, and
scattering the 6eed thinly aloDg, covering lightly.
If the soil is moist, but little water will be
needed until the young plants make half a
dozen leaves, for if kept too moist before the
stems get hardened they are liable to damp off
at the base, but as soon as large enough to
handle, they may be pricked out about 3 inches
apart, covering them with any spare lights until
they are well rooted, when they may be fully
exposed, and in May they will be nice, sturdy
plants. Then select a good piece of land, manure
it well, dig deeply, and put out the young plants
in lines a foot apart. Give one good soaking of
water to settle the soil, and stir the surface
occasionally, which is all the attention they will
require, except watering in dry weather. A
little liquid manure will be of great service in
giving size and colour to the flowers. For lift¬
ing with good-sized balls of earth for potting,
few plants are better adapted than Asters, as
they withstand the ordeal without showing any
visible effects. The varieties of Asters are now
so numerous that it is difficult to say which is
best, and they are supplied in distinct colours.
The clear white is always in great demand, while
pinks and various shades of red and blue are
numerous. China Asters, German Asters, and
all the other imported varieties, find formidable
rivals in plants raised from seed of borne growth,
which in the south of England ripens to perfec¬
tion.— James Groom.

Phloxes and Pentstemons.— In spring,
as early as we can obtain the cuttings, arrange¬
ments are made to propagate as many Phloxes
as are required. Numerous shoots are thrown
up by each established plant, and as soon as they
are 1£ inches long they should be taken off and
inserted singly in 2£-inch pots. If the pots can
be plunged in a hotbed the cuttings very
speedily form roots, and by repotting them into
4-inch or 5-inch pots strong flowering plants are
produced the first year, which may either be
grown and flowered in pots or be planted out in
the beds or borders. The Phlox is an easily
grown hardy plant, and will flower, even if
neglected, year after year. The plants make a
mass of roots, and soon exhaust the soil round
them. One way of propagating them is to dig
up an old stool and chop it into three or four
pieces with a spade, replanting the divisions,
but no really good spikes can be obtained in
that way. Spring-struck cuttings always pro¬
duce the best plants. Seedlings raised from
seed sown now will also flower strongly and well,
producing about 50 per cent, of the whole as
good as the parents, but they vary very much.
We saved a lot of seeds from some of the best
dwarf pure white forms, but did not get a single
white variety amongst them ; and the rich dark
coloured varieties did not give much better
results. From amongst two or three hundreds
of seedlingE we did not get one that could be
said to surpass the best of the named varieties.
What we did obtain was plenty of spikes to cut
long after all the named varieties were over.
They flowered finely the second year, and after
that they were destroyed. Those who have only
seen this plant grown in the ordinary way in
the herbaceous border have no idea of the great
results that can be obtained from one-year-old

plants put out 2 feet apart on deeply trenched
and heavily manured soil. Three stems would
be a sufficient number to each plant the second
year. Pentstemons do not obtain so many
admirers as the Phlox; nevertheless, they bloom
very freely in the mixed border, and continue to
do so well into the autumn, and they are not
easily injured by wind or wet. The best way to
obtain a stock of strong flowering Pentstemons
is to take off cuttings in autumn about the
same time that Calceolaria cuttings are put in,
and they require much the same treatment in
winter. They ought to be potted off from the
cutting-boxes early in the year, and when well
established, which will be by the end of March
or early in April, they may te planted out. Like
the Phlox, they prefer rich soil, and if in beds,
should be planted 2 feet from each other. Old
plants have passed through the winter in the
borders this year without injury, and if cuttings
were not put in in autnmn, they may be inserted
now, only instead of planting them under hand¬
glasses or frames it will be better to push them
on in a warm frame, potting them off or planting
them in boxes, about 4 inches apart, until large
enough to plant out.—D.

11204. — Pansies for exhibition. — If
“ Uneasy Novice ” has had no experience in
growing Pansies, it is not likely that be will
know a good one when he sees it. In yellow
and white ground Pansies the belting must cer¬
tainly appear in all the petals ; indeed, without
doing so, the Pansy would be an imperfect one.
Iwouldadvise “ Uneasy Novice” togetbis Pansies
from some good nurseryman, asking him to make
his own selection, and afterwards compare the
blooms with those he has already got, when he
will at once see where the deficiences are. It is
needless to say that Pansies must be grown well,
otherwise the beltiDg will often come irregularly
and broken.—It. Mann, Shadnell , Leeds.

-“ Uneasy Novice” appears to be in a di¬
lemma about the belting of white and yellow
ground Pansies. It seems to me that he has got
an attack of that prevalent disease called Pansy
fever. I think that I can offer him some floral
medicine free from quackery, and hasten to give
him a dose. In white and yellow grounds the
belting should surround the outer edge of the
three lower petals (only), the two top ones
should be of one colour, and exactly the same
shade as the belt. If otherwise they are not
good ones, and would stand a bad chance in
good competition. “ Uneasy Novice” may rely
on the above properties of belted Pansies, not¬
withstanding what is said on the contrary. As
the time for planting out is approaching, i think
a few words on the subject will not be out of
place. I would advise all growers of Pansies
not to set out their young plants before the end
of March, and would most particularly impress
on them to set them quite up to the leaves, and
not leave a long naked stem sticking up; for
remember, rough winds do far more damage to
plants than frost. I have been a great sufferer
in this case, and gladly give my experience ]>ro-
bonopublico. —Gko. Henderson, Situthwell.

-I give the properties of show Pansies

from the schedule of one of the principal Pansy
shows in Scotland, where Pansies are grown to
perfection. (1) Form : The outline should be a
perfect circle and free of every notch or uneven¬
ness, the petals lying close and evenly on each
other. (2) Texture: The petals should be thick
and of a rich glossy, velvety appearance. (3)
Colour : In all two-coloured flowers the ground
colour (of whatever shade) should be perfectly
alike in all the three lower petals, and should
be circular and of equal width between the
blotch and the belt in the three lower petals.
(4) Belting: The belt or margin should be ex¬
actly the same shade as the two top petalp,
and whether broad or narrow, should be of equal
breadth throughout, without running into or
flushing with ground colour (5) Blotch : The
blotch should be dense and solid, and of a cir¬
cular character, free from all running into or
through the ground colour or the eye. (6) Eye :
This should be bright gold or orange and solid,
without mixing or running into the blotch, and
should be exactly in the centre of the bloom.
Selfs, of whatever colour, should be of the same
shade throughout in yellow, white, blue, or any
other shade; the denser the blotch the better.—
Scotch Pakby. Original from

-**. Uneasy Novice” can place full reliance

on the description of Pansies given by Mr

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

40

Henderson in Gardening Illustrated. When
we first thought of starting a Pansy society, I
corresponded with the secretaries of several
large shows. They kindly sent me copies of
their roles, also the acknowledged standard
roles that all classes of exhibition Pansies are
jodged by. I always have these printed on our
schedules, so that every exhibitor knows what
points his blooms will be jodged by. This saves
all uneasiness to beginners. Should any reader
of this think of starting a Pansy society, I shall
be happy to send him a copy of oor rules, if
they would be of any service to him.— Thomas
H. Davis, Southwell.

Show Pansies.—! saw in Gardening of
the 5th inst. (p. 22) another correspondent ask¬
ing for information about these. It seems dif¬
ficult to explain the florist’s idea of the proper¬
ties required to make up a perfect flower in
these little beauties. In my last letter, which
appeared in Gardening, March 1, I did not
think it necessary to explain that the ground
colour in classes two and three does not extend
to the upper petals, but these are of one colour
only, and should be the same colour as the belt¬
ing in the side and bottom petals—in fact, a
continuation of the belting; therefore I was
right in saying the belting should completely
surround the flower.— S. Siiepperson, Belper.

11228.— Polyanthuses not flowering.
—Get a packet of seeds and sow now in fine
soil. If you have a gentle hotbed the plants
will come up best. A shilling packet of seed
will produce 200 or 300 plants. These must be
grown on well by pricking them out in rich soil,
and by the end of J uly they will be good sized
plants ready to be planted out where they are
to bloom. Any ordinary garden soil will suit
them. You will have bloom in profusion next
year; that can be guaranteed.— J. Douglas.

Renovating lawns. —This is the best time
of year to set about renovating Grass lawns, for
if patchy and worn they sadly detract from the
beauty of a garden, and in those of limited ex¬
tent the turf gets a deal of wear since lawn
tennis and other open air recreation has become
so much practised. When really good turf is pro¬
curable there is not much difficulty in the work
of renovation, but in town and suburban gar¬
dens this is a scarce article, and those who have
lawns requiring attention will do well to make
the best use of lawn Grass mixture sown about
the first week in April, and be sure and add a
good lot of white Datch Clover seed to it, as it
helps to make a thick verdant carpet— the
pride of an English garden. The best plan is to
first take out all coarse growing weeds, Docks,
Plantains, Daisies, &c., loosening them with a
fork thrust well down under their roots, then
spread the seed over the surface, and give a good
coating of rich soil sifted fine, roll it down firm,
and you will soon see the seedling Grasses ap¬
pear ; keep the lawn rolled frequently, but do
not let the mowing machine go on it until the
young Grass is well established. I like a sharp
scythe to brush the tops off when it gets too
long, but by the end of June the lawn mower
may be safely employed again. Treading the
Grass much when in a dry condition is one of
the things that wears lawns out quickly, and
the only way to avoid mischief to the lawn is to
apply copious supplies of water after the sun
has gone down, as the hotter the weather the
greener the lawn will be, provided plenty of
moisture is supplied, but avoid sprinkling the
surface, or the Grass will get scorched worse
than before, a good soaking to the roots is the
thing to make a verdant growth. — J. Groom,
Gosport.

Waeps.—The extinguisher for wasps' nests in roofs
or ebewhere is the followingAfter the day’s work
burn brimstone at the entrance of the nest, and with a
pair of bellows direct the fume through the channel, in
the direction of the nest.—G. H. P.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(miscellaneous.)

11169.— Portable greenhouee and sur¬
veyor.—“ Happy Thought 1 ’ can replace the
wooden panels with glass instead of bricks, as
last year I bad a similar greenhouse erected,
a larger size, which cost me ,£20. The builder
forwarded me a notice which he had sent from
Digitized by ^_,0 VUT

[March 29, 1884.

the surveyor, stating the requirements of the
Metropolitan Buildings Act. I had the panels
taken out, and glass substituted. I intend to
have the panels made into a potting house.
Other amateurs like myself who would like to
have a greenhouse, tenants’ fixture, would bail
with satisfaction an article on the law as to
greenhouses, as it would save them much
unnecessary trouble and expense. When builders
know what the Metropolitan Act enforces, they
ought to be the responsible parties.— Robin
Hood.

11060.—Leather coated grubs.—I beg
to say that a lamp will enable one to see the
leather-coated grubs feeding at night. They
have always been most trouble to me in the
Pink beds. When my first pink bed was attacked
by them, the plants were eaten over as if rabbits
had been at work; indeed, the bed was fenced
round with wire netting to keep them out, but
still the plants were shorn over. At last by the
aid of a lamp the pest was found feeding an hour
or so after it was dark. We had no trouble to
find them, and the bed was cleared in about
three nights. •* G. B ’s” idea of carting out the
soil of a garden to the depth of 3 feet is simply
impracticable. It would take 1,200 cartloads to
clear a garden of a quarter of an acre.—J. D. E.

11172. — MeBembryanthemums In
London.—As pot plants, these should be grown
inside, and not outside the window, though they
are ^benefited by standing out-of-doors for two
or three months during the summer. There is
no reason why they should not succeed in Lon¬
don in a sunny window facing south. The
annual M. tricolor, which can be easily raised
from seed, might do well with good manage¬
ment in an outside window-box. Mesembryan-
themums are now generally to be obtained by
exchange with friends, but a few species are to
be found in some of the nurseries. Mr. Thom¬
son, of Ipswich, at one time had an interesting
collection of these plants.—K. L. D.

11226 —Plants under greenhouse
sta^e.—Ferns and Mosses would do well under
stage. It is advisable that the pots should not
be too crowded on the stage above, the plants
would be more robust for having extra room,
and the Ferns would get more light. I have
seen them grow in this way under centre stage
in a light house, and did admirably. Of course
the hardier varieties of cool greenhouse Ferns
should be selected for the purpose.— William
Phillips, Hoole, Chester.

11227.—Azaleas over-potted— Autumn
is not the best time to repot Azaleas. I would
examine one of the plants, and as is most likely
they have not rooted into the new potting
material, I would repot them again in good
sandy, turfy peat, and encourage them to grow
afterwards by putting them into a house where
the temperature is not more than about 65°
They may not flower well this year, but would
make good growth for next.—J. D. E.

11211. — Chrye anthemum cuttings. — Pot the
cuttings off at once In sandy soil, repot alterwards when
required. The soil (or the second and last shift should
consist of sandy loam, leaf-mould, and some well decayed
manure from an old hotbed. Place the plants out of-
doore about the end of ApriL— E. Margereson, Barlow,
Chesterfield.

11213.—Water not circulating in pipes.— The
stesm escape pipe is stopped up. The steam created by
the heating cannot escape, and thus causes the gurgling
noise in the pipes, forcing the water out of the tank. By
unscrewlog the nut where fixed to the large pipe, you
will allow the Bteam to escape and the pipes to refill
from the tank.—T. S.

11245.—Sunflowers.—Sow the seeds at once in good
soil. I have grown very large Sunflowers by sowing the
seed in the open ground at the beginning of March, and
allowing the plants to remain where sown They may
also be sown in pots in frame or greenhouse, and
planted out when large enough.— E. Margereson,
Barlow, Chesterfield.

11204.— Pansies for exhibition — The two top
petals in white and yellow ground Pansies are always of
a dark maroon rr maroon-purple colour,without belting.
The three lower petals have a band of the same colour
round the outer edge, the centre being white or yellow.
—J. Douglas.

11202.—Dahlia cuttings.— Take the cuttings off
with a small piece of the tuber, insert them in sandy
soil In small pots, one cutting in each pot. Place them In
gentle heat, and they will soon be rooted.—E. Margkre-
80N, Barlow, Chesterfield.

11233.—Chinese Primulas.—A cold frame or cool
nhouse are good places in which to keep Primulas
ng the summer. Shade during very hot weather,
and water freely.—E. Margereson, Barlow,Chester field.

11248 — Clipping Box edgings and Ivy.— Now
is the time to clip Box edgings and Ivy, as they will
soon shoot out again and be quickly clothed with fresh
* green foliage.—W. Phillips.

11236.— Cats injuring trees — I have found pi
nized wire-netting fixed loosely round the trees it a j
ventive to cats scratching off the bark. Fine nettle*,
i inch mesh, is the'best; if larger mesh, use it doubi
R. B. S.

11249.— Worms in lawns.— China soap, or
soap, at sold by Rutley and Silverlock, 412, Stm
London, W.C., I find a good remedy for worm*, bul
is too expensive to use on a large scale.—M. 8. B.

11244.— Daisies on lawn.— Set a lad to work wi
an old three-pronged steel table fork and pull them I
This is the only certain plan, and I hare tried maty
J. B. R.

11247.— The largest Lettuce.- Cooling’s Leriitii
Cos or Victoria Cos.—W. Phillips.

J. n. Bell.— The liquid will certainly not restore tk
heat, but it will do to moisten the dry manure with —
W. 0 M .—Cottage Gardening, by E. Hobday, pubhiki

by Routledge <fc Co., will probably suit you.-Jtfwi-

The Ethiopian Lily, the Calls, and Arum Lily are near
nised as 'he same plant.—It is also sometimes eslfe
the Raster Lily.

R. IT.—If you ask the makers of the boiler they *£
tell you exactly what length of pipe the boiler will hot

- M. C —At any good hardy plant nursery. AppMr

some of our advertisers.- M. Boyd.—Yea. An tmati

fulgens or its varieties.- Ignoramus, Bournemouth.

If you had plenty of piping, no doubt the boiler wcsH

auswer.- Young Gardener.— The Egg plant is tb

Abergene.

Bainton —Try Messrs. Barr and Son, 12, King Stmt,

Covent Garden, London.- J. B.—Try Veitch and

Royal Exotic Nursery, Chelsea.- G. H. C.— W* tet

nothing remarkable in the Bean sent. The spots, at
doubt, are the work of an insect.

Names of plants.— Walter Coicburn.— Santofca

incana.- A. E. D — 1, Aloe variegata; 2, Enonyma

japontcus aurea maculatus.- J. Thomson.— Onddfci

luridum.- Donabel.— 2, Funkia lanceolata variegasi

3, Dip'erocanthus species; 4 and 6, Cytlaua raewrosa.

- Blakemore.— Mouochictum ensiferum ; leaf is fna

Francoa souchifolia-tF. Graham.— Yellow is AcadS

armata: other is apparently Thyrsacanthus rati law —
J. Alison.— 1, Piceacephalonica; 2, Cryptomeria japonic*

4, Thuja occidentalis ; 5, Biota oriental!*.- T. R -

Laurcstinus. The plant has probably been recently

potted. It will soon recover.- A. B. <?.—Tenby Dif-

dil (Narcissus obvallaris).

QUERIES

Rules for Correspondents.—AH commune
tions/or insertion should be dearly and concise!a wnUtt
on one side qf the paper only and addressed to the EDitui
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The a aw
and address qf the sender u> reauired, in addition tc <rty
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers toQvena
should always bear the number and title qf the
answered. When more than one query is sent each thee*
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity f
Gardening going to press a considerable time before w
day qf publication, it is not possible to insert Ottervi aw
sommunications the week they are received. Quena m
answered should be sent to us again.

Naming plants.—Four plants, fruits, orfioweno^ f
can be named at one time , and this only when H
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to vent
varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias, Gertatx u»»,
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by 3
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Aty
communication respecting plants or dowers sent to nuu
should always accompany the parcel.

11285.— Insects in gardens.—I had two Boxtn«*
planted in August last in my garden. One side (fsewf
west) has gone quite brown and withered, comro«n i?c
at the bottom. The plauts are about 2 feet high. uJ
both have gone the same way. Being but a novice »t
gardening, I have been trying to follow out the direction*
given in Gardening Illustrated. Two wetks sgo I
planted some Sweet Williams and Foxgloves, wblcb I
bought from Sutton <fc Co., but I find that they are bein?
completely eaten up by wireworms and slugs, althourn I
go out at night with a lantern for about three boon
catching and killing. My growing ground only amount*
to 69 feet super. I have put soot round the plants, u
recommended in Gardening, but they still continue w
be eaten. Would a hedgehog be of any useinkeepr*
them away ? If so, how shall I keep it when I have it J
Shall I leave it in the garden night and day, or take it
indoors at night 7 If 1 cannot get rid of them somebav
it is useless for me to continue gardening, as both tim*
and money are only being thrown away.—H ope.

11286 —Sorrel for salads.— When I was atjMI
use to visit a relative who had a garden, in which vu
a plant of sorrel, the leaves of which we children
fond of eatiug between slices of bread and butter. OF
gardener has lately brought me some plauts of whst b#
savB is French Sorrel both large and small leaved ; tw
this is a totally different thing from my childhood*
favourite. The French is a long pointed leaf, very Utue
acid, and one might almost as well eat grass, so «ry
green does it taste. But my old friend had a j 1 -
round, light green leaf not unlike a Nasturtium le*J ™
miniature, and the flavour was most delicious, the deb-
cate acid could be tasted at once ; whereas with tb«
French you have to search carefully for the flavour, u i
may so describe it I think the plant grew low
spreading, but am not quite certain about thia. Can *uy
reader tell me whore and how to get this 7 I want it tor
aalad.—B. E. F.

11287.—Climber for small fernery. -Will
reader kindly tell me what quick growing climber for
both Bummer and winter effect (flowering preferred) 1
can grow in a fernery fitted to the outside of my bsc*
room window, in which ia a miniature flah pond? TM
fernery is 4 feet C inches long, 3 feet 6 inches wide, suo
3 f«et high, with glazed top and front to open.
mould, which iu composed ot peat, cand, and lot®. >•

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

March 29 , 1884 .]

gardening illustrated

41

: Inches deep. I have tried climbing Hoses, but they
tea to rot. I want the creeper to grow along some
Ire which la placed about 2 inches below the top glass,
» shade the Kerns from the sun. No artificial heat
led— Lover op Ferns.

112S3. -Grass eaten off —Nearly all the grass on
ij tennis lawn is eaten by the Tipula oleracea. I
ave thousands on the paths, beds, and lawn, and also
iny of my neighbours are troubled the same I find the
Ay effectual way of killing them Is to sweep them up
om the paths and salt them. Now, if I am willing to
orifice what little remaining turf there is, might not I
nrer it with salt T What effect would that have on the
ew turf and seed next spring ? Or would It be advisable
* dig it up in October and salt again? It Is very little
ie doing anything now, ai the whole neighbourhood
raruji with the pest.—B. Venables.

112£<—Planting dwarf Roses.— Planting dwarf
csea a month ago, my man, in the case of a few, failed
. put the union of the bud with the Manetti stock
dow the surface, or only half-an-inch or so. They
ere, however, carefully protected by some inches of
ym manure over the roots and around the stem, and
, Spruce branches stuck in the ground all around,
ill, these are not doing so well as the rest, and seem
»mg. What can be the reason ? How could tho budded
irt, being above the surface, affect them, seeing it was
ivered by some inches of horse manure, and so
»o roughly protected from frost?— A Beginner.

11230— Plants for boxes —will someone suggest
hat to grow in a box 28 inches long. 7 inches deep,
td o Inches wide, which is fastened against an outhonse
>or in a small unheated greenhouse ? I have tried Ita-
tu Iry. Habrothamnus, Nasturtium, Cobrca scandens
d all have failed more or less. 1 should greatly prefer
evergreen creeper, not any annual. The door behind
e box is covered with wire netting, and is about 5 feet
ncbea high, and gets east and south-east sunshine. I
a only use soot and occasional manure water to im-
ove the soil in the box.—Miss T.

and ferns —I have a large fern,
Ued I believe. Bird's-nest. The leaves are from
inches to 16 inches long, narrow at the bases, about
nchea or 5 inches wide at the broadest part, all grow-
? from 0D « crown like a large shuttlecock. Blow should
be grown, in what kind of soil, in what sized
t, and how watered? Mine does not flourish when
4 leaves are half grown ; they appear as if eaten, but
•an find nothing that eats them.—I da.

11301.—Culture of Orcbids.-What is the time to
pot Orchids ? What is the best preparation for potting ?
What is the average temperature required to grow them ?
I also wish to know if I can grow them in a small house
heated by an oil lamp, and kept at an average tempera¬
ture of from 56° to 70°.—Capias.

11292— Plant for round bed. — I have a small
coUr bed, to which it is desired to give a some-

iermediate circle (perennial preferred); height about
away between the Funklas and Yucca, and colour such
would look well with both. The bed Is on a lawn.

A. L

Lilies not starting.—I potted six bulbs of
Horn anratum the last week in November, 1883. I
»y add they were very fine bulbs, and in good condi-
*‘. 1 ua ® d two 7-inch pots, and put three bulbs in
en, in a mixture of good loam, peat, and Band, and put
cm in a frame, well covering them over with cocoanut
>r? 1 “7* examined them two or three times lately,
t there is no sign of their starting yet. I may say
ey are u sound now as they were when 1 potted them,
old anyone kindly enlighten me on the subject ?—Con-
ant Reader.

JJ2J; “ Baiaing new Auriculae. — Will Mr.
>og»s give us a Lktle bit of advice about Auriculas, as
plying to fertilisation and seeding. I have a few
ch as George Lightbody, Acme, Pizarro, Prince of
wns. and a few other good sorts. Will tho seedlings
*m the above be as g.»od as the parents, or what
kIu be & good cross ? Will It do to cross tiro greys
greens, or would It be best to ctosb a grey with a
i. or a white with a green ? Any advice on the above
11 be greatly prized.— Grey Edge.

w fd } lin ^ — 1 have a email green-
hot * wafcer pipes, average temperature
have been mo9t anxious to flower two
Lilias. They looked promising before Christmas,
ace then all their buds have fallen, also the leaf buds
end of shoots and some of the leaves. I have re-
7 d them m turf and peat soil. What further can I
•o ensure blooms another year ? —Moira.

not ripening. -I have a Peach
b? a ver y late one, for though the
-HS7 310 the n * ht 8U€ * 1 have not yet been able
this one to ripen. I fancy some time ago I saw
^ advertisement of glass arrangement that perhaps
7 *.V P* me ’ but 1 4® not fcnow what it is called,
.J™* to a PPly, and am not sure whether it would
J'**} /° r p ®ao h e®v anyone can give me any ad-
« on the subject I shall feel obliged —D. D.

^--Fuchsia leaves curling. -I have two
in a small greenhouse heated to about 60*. one
"web I repotted six weeks ago. Since then young
&m come, bat curls up, and when the plant is
lfXi J rop * oti. The other (not repotted) Is doing
same thing. They are watered sparingly about
^ sweet Can any reader suggest a remedy?—H.

for town garden— I should b6
i/v. . r khc names of a few annuals wh'ch would
“** fl? wer wel1 In a ^^n garden that only gets
jJ^niorabout two hours each morning. Crocuses and
«mibii are flowering well. Would Carnations suc-
**■1 IB such a garden ?—Ebor.

J-jjeranlum leaves spotted— Several
^amuns in a greenhouse heated at night and some-
ff unng the day have their leaves spotted as If
should feel obliged if anyone can Bay the
Sy” other plants look healthy, but are late In

^ffi-Tree Perns.—Will any reader give me a
- tuonnstlon on Tree Ferns ? I purchased two spe-
ot A 1 * 0 ? 11 ! 1 * excelsa and Dicfcsonia ant-

11302— Double Stock seed— Will some reader
describe how to save double Stock seed, as all I have
saved has come single ? I have been told it is saved from
flowers having five petals, but I have not been able to
discover any flowers with that number of petals—
W. T. T.

11303—Plants for shady border—I have at the
end of my garden a large, shady, and always damp flower ,
bed. Geraniums run to leaf in it. Would someone kindly 1
tell me of some showy and suitable plant to put in it for
the ensuing season ? - Old Soldier.

11304. —Chrysanthemums for outdoor culture.
—I should be glad if anyone would tell me the names of
a few good Chrysanthemums for planting out-of-doors to
flower late In October. No washed-out colours wanted,
but brilliant yellows and reds required.— Amateur.

11305— Tenants’ greenhouses— I put up a small
conservatory against my house made entirely of wood
and glass. Can the landlord prevent me taking it down
when I leave? Also, can he stop me removing shrubs
and fruit trees whleh I have planted ?— One in Doubt.

11306.— Cyclamens.— A week ago I bought some
Cyclamens from a seedsman advertising in Gardening.

I placed them in a brisk heat with some Gloxinias.
Since then the leaves have turned yellow and died down.
What can I do with them ?—H. B.

11307—Bone ash as manure— Would animal
bones burnt into ashes be of any use for garden
purposes as a manure or as a vermin killer, and If so
how should it be used, and to what kind of plants ?—
Working amateur.

11308.—Manure for garden—I have a quantity
of fresh horse and cow manure mixed, which I am de¬
sirous of using in my flower garden. Would it be fit for
use, say, In a month, if I were now to mix lime or soot
with it?— Ebor.

qitiz<

11309.—Ivy on brickwork— Can any reader inform
me how to make Ivy cling to brickwork ? It is the large-
leafed Ivy I have planted, and It will only adhere to
wood.—J. A.

11310—Bird sand for plants—Is the sand known
as bird sand as good as silver sand to mix with soil for
flowers. If not, what effect will it have on the roots ?—
J. B.

11311—Woodllce In frames—I would be very
glad if some reader would give me a hint how to get rid
of these pests. They destroy my young Melon plants
just as they begin to grow— Ivkd.

11312—PhcBnocomas—Will" J. d. E." kindly tell
me if I should syringe the Phcenocoma occasionally with
clean water; also, does it require any liquid manure?
It has not been potted this season.—D. W.

11313. — Striking Roee cuttings. — Will some
reader kindly give instructions for striking Rose cuttings,
also the best time to do it?—T. H.

1134.—Propagating Camellias and Azaleas.
—Will some reader kindly Inform me which Is the best
method of propagating Camellias and Azaleas?—H. F.

11315—Violas for edgings—Would Violas be
suitable for margins of Rhododendron beds ? The situa¬
tion is warm and sunny.—8. n. F. J.

11310—Hyacinths.—Will some reader oblige me
with Information on tho culture of Hyacinths when
they fall off from the okl bulbs ?— Learner.

BEES.

SEASONABLE NOTES.

Comb foundation.— In preparation for the
coming season (which must now begin to be
made in earnest) one very essential article to
have in stock is that great acquisition in modern
bee keeping, comb foundation, the consumption
of which increases yearly as the fact becomes
manifest that through its use larger honey yields
are obtained. Large quantities of honey are
consumed by bees in order to secrete wax for
comb building, it being commonly supposed
that the production of 1 lb. of wax necessitates
the consumption by the bees of 20 lbs. of honey.
This, however, has not yet been satisfactorily
proved, still there can be no doubt that wax-
producing consumes much honey, besides re¬
quiring a high temperature to be kept up in the
hive. Now, all this also occupies much time of
large numbers of bees, just at the most busy
season, particularly so in the case of swarms,
and where super honey is worked for ; and here
oomes in the value of comb foundation. It
consists of thin sheets of wax embossed by the
comb foundation machine to the natural shape
of the base of the honey cells. It supplies all
the wax needed to form the comb, and is very
quickly worked out by the bees, there being
sufficient wax in its projecting walls to allow
the complete lengthening out of the cells, and
thus much time and honey is saved, the bees, of
course, storing the honey they would otherwise
have to consume in the production of wax. If
a swarm be put into a hive provided with full

again, comb foundation is found most valuable.
Super foundation is made thinner than that
used in the body of the hive, and of very pale
wax. Unfortunately, adulteration appears even
in comb foundation, much of it being found to
be largely adulterated with paraffin and kerosine.
Curiously, even, the bees are deceived in this
instance, and wosk out the sham wax into
comb as readily if it were the genuine article.
As, however, with all things not built on good
foundation, it cannot stand. Hot weather is its
time of trial, a general collapse of combs and
stifled bees the inevitable result.

Fixing foundation.— If whole sheets are
used, they should be fixed firmly in the saw
scarf cut in the top bars, and allowed to hang to
within three-quarters of an inch of the bottom
bar and a quarter of an inch from the side bars.
To keep the foundation in the centre, four pins
or thin nails should be driven in each side bar,
or foundation fixers may be hsed, the wire
prongs of which hold the comb foundation in
its place ; the two ends turn over the top and
bottom of frame, the pins keeping the sheet of
the foundation exactly in the centre, and fixing
it so firmly that it cannot fall out. The frame,
now containing the foundation, is placed in the
hive, the fixers being removed when the bees
have built out the cells. Another way of fixing
foundation in frames is to cut a piece of f-inch
board to a size to fit easily into the frame, and
nail two strips of wood on the back, which must
project beyond each end of the board 1 inch.
The frame is laid on these projections, and the
foundation is placed on the board, its upper
edge touching the top bar. The board is then
held in an inverted position and a little melted
wax poured along the angle formed by the
frame and the foundation. As it is important
the wax should not be over-heated, a good
apparatus to use in this operation is the wax-
melter, in which the wax cannot be burned in
heating, and yet is kept at the temperature of
boiling water. If whole sheets of ccmb founda¬
tion be not need, a strip 1 inch or 2 inches
wide must be provided to the underside of each
top bar. This the bees take as a guide from
which to work out the combs in a perpendicular
line within the frames. Without this guide,
combs would most probably be built in such a
way as to join the frames together. This
comb foundation being stamped by rollers
which axe accurately engraved, insures much
more regularity of comb than that built natu¬
rally, besides which worker or drone comb build¬
ing can be regulated by the bee master, by
giving foundation impressed with worker or
drone cells. Although it is good policy to order
stock of foundation, as well as all other
adjuncts to modern bee keeping, before dealers
in bee keeping appliances and hive makers
become busy, and consequently unable to
execute orders so promptly ns they can early in
the season, it is better not to fix foundation into
frames and sectional boxes until it is likely to
be soon wanted, or it will become brittle and
dry, and liable to break when the bees cluster
upon it, and lead to confusion, disappointment,
and loss of time. S. S. G., Boxvoorth.

«* foundation, it is marvellous to observe
trunks? Do they require any liquid manure ? | m how short a^jpace of time bars of comb are

forked out. Used in sectional super boxes.

POULTRY.

Hen moving eggs —For many days I was
quite puzzled to find eggs moved from one box
into another, which was separated by a few
inches, and several times in the day I would
replace the moved eggs only to find them later
on pat back into the favourite nest. The nests
were in deep tea chests one behind the other. I
watched patiently one day, and saw a Dorking
pullet go on the back nest; she was very restless,
got up and peeped over into the front box several
times, and at last she went over, nestled awhile,
then rose and lifted one egg held close to her
body by the thigh of one leg, and cleverly
managed to place that egg in the box at the
back, then returned for another, which was
carried in the same manner. This little amuse¬
ment had gone on for a week. I never found an
egg broken. After some days the pullet took to
sitting.— Enquire Without. [Although we
never experienced any such performance on the
part of a hen, yet we consider it quite possible,
and, moreover, a very interesting fact, showing
the attachment hens have for one particular
nest, generally, as Jo your case, tho snuggest
and farthest removed from the light.—-EDi]

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Digitized by

Gck igle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

APRIL 5, 1884.

No. 265.

OUTDOOR PLANTS. bedders. It is of dwarf growth, not exceeding

- 6 inches in height, and covers the ground with

SOME GOOD ANNUALS a mass °* lively green foliage, the flowers shown

he following notes on some annuals of proved «P. a ,V° ve *$■ ^ “?“«ous, double, and
Orth may acceptable to readers of Garden- bright yellow. It is a capital plant for edging a
so. who having, perhaps, but little experience border or flower-beds on grass It is rather best

f them, will be pEzsled wbat to select from the “ w * e 80eds “ war “ tb l “ March ’ and barda “
ery numerous species and varieties now to be ° ff m. the usual way ; but they may be sown in

oond in trade catalogues. A P nl f n a , tra “ e - or >“ a .^ l b °™?’° r ln tbe

® open border, about the middle of that month.

French Marigolds. The plants should have quite 6 inches space

I think the exceptional merits of these should between them. There is a single variety, but
score them the first place on the list They not so effective as the double one.
re showy, bloom profusely and continuously, Indian Pinks.

re very weather proof, and last until very sharp . ... ,. * , . ,,__

rnsf_« ivrinr. Tfc is nnita rftfrftshino 1 tn how These are in reality biennials, but as they so

April in a frame, or in a cool house, or in the
open border, about the middle of that month.
The plants should have quite 6 inches space

re showy, bloom profusely and continuously, Indian Pinks.

re very weather proof, and last until very sharp . ... ,. . *. , .

two occur. It U quite refreshing to see how These are ln ”“ bty b . nt afl ‘ bey a °

ravely they bear the climatic vicissitudes qnckly come into flower after sowing, they are

rbich mar the beauty of so many tender flowers, c ° m “. on y P laced am °Tfh“T „ in — n “
nd those who have no convenience for winter- April in the open ground, tkey flo e ,

og any quantity of “bedding plants” would and the fo lowing year they make large speci-
nd in theae Marigolds one excellent substitute mens and bloom early in summer To have the
or them. The Med may be sown about the { 0UD 8 P lanta ln bloom by July, the seed should
fiddle of April under a headlight, in fine sandy be sown in warmth in March, or it may be sown
ml, shading-indeed keeping quite dark- “ nder a br ight in April, or in the border at
in til germination take, place. If sown thinly, tbat tuae - By sowing in the three different
here will be no need to transplant until the W. a succession of this charming flower may
ime comes to place them in their summer be had from July through the summer and
carters. As soon as the young plants appear, autumn months. The rich colours which a good
ive air on all favourable Decisions, gradually f‘ raln of lQdian Plak9 display is indescribable;
luring them to fall exposure, so tbit by the £ey are amongst the most brilliant flowers of
m week in June they will haM come into fine, tbe 8 arden - and tbe J should be pown by all
tocky, bushy little specimens. Work the soil who desire a gay garden at but little cost. Some
sell before planting, but do not make it very of them are as double as flowers <»n be, others
ich, or they will run too much to leaf. These ” e both are beautiful, but I think the

ilarigolds do very well In sandy soil, but if single ones most useful in a genera way, as they
aturally Ught and poor, a little rotten dung are fine for catting, associatmg well with almost
lay be added, otherwise they are better with- any other flowers There are two especially fine
ut manure. Choose one of the sunniest spots varieties, raised a few years back named Eastern
n tbe garden, and do not let them be crowded, Q“ ee “ aad Crimson Belle, the one a g
ither mutually or by other things. coloured kind, the other deepest crimson.

„ ^ Saponabia calabrica.

Phlox Drummondi grandiflora. _ .. .. . . . .. . . . .,.

„ . lt If I were limited to six kinds of annuals, this

few annuals surpass this in beauty and brll- mtle Soapwort would be one ot them, as it is
uiucy ; the vmd hues of some of the varieties one of the F hardieati neatest habited, effective,
Imost equal the zonal in effectiveness, and the d aocommodat i n g plants that ever found a
ibito are m fair and chaste as a flower can well lace in English gardens. Sown in September.

* Thu 18 5?' aed “ tbe manner as f t is in full g loom B in May , and succession^ sow-
«commended for Marigolds but of course the ; from th8 middle Maroh onwarda yield
eeds may be sown in warmth at once by those ab B ondant bloom in mi i d seasons until up to the
rho have the convenience for so doing. The middIe of November. Last year we had it in
allure must, however be of the most liberal full flower the fir6t week in that mon th, when
tacnption, and many failures in the culture of tbere wa8 8Careely an brightness left in the
hu plant may be attributed to the semi-starva- outdoor garden . W hat recommends this
r^° P ^ fre ? aently subjected. Sapona ria so strongly, is the indifference it shows

lenty of good food and moisture make of this to ^ rolonged droight. When the majority of
i perpetual and abundant floweret; starvation h J aD B aaU are dried np. this little plant
.bhterates these good qualities, and brmgs a bloo ' 3 a almost as fr«ly and brightly as

° , dlS , repQ . ?*. P i ftDtinK ,* h “ ever, and it U as unmindful of washing rims and
£lox it is better to devote a plot of ground en- of ^ ntlnoona heavy d0 wnponr as of severe
«ely to it, as this admits of better preparation. dronght- It ia in the trne sense of the word a
Rie ground must be deeply stirred and get a weat | er . proof plant . it forms a rounded, com-
orf dressing of rotten manure, and if the t mas P of foliage, some four Inches high,
atuml staple is close, add something to lighten ^ mpletely covered with small rosy pink flowers.

, n S , ^ w ,f i ane ; ^ When these first appear, and are but few in
ester Uberally in hot, dry weather. If the plants nombe one is apt to think them insignificant,

tZ $ ■ on . t . 1 “ ely “b®'“tson, give a dress- but as they increase in quantity, one gradually

mg of Clay s fertdizer, and wash it well in. realjee8 ^ exceptional charms of thU annual.
Crown Daisies (Chrysanthemum tricolor Although it grows into a compact mass, it has

AND CARINATUM).

nothing of limpiness whatever. On the contrary,

Here we have an annual as free and contin- the flowers seem to rest so lightly on the foliage,
uoo9 flowering as the Paris Daisies, to which aQ d ar ® themselves so devoid of regularity, as to
they are nearly allied, both botanically and in impart a very graceful appearance. The last
natnre and appearance. They may be sown at sowing should be made the first week in May,
once in the open ground where intended to and in all cases the plants should be left singly,
bloom, leaving but one or two plants in a place, aQ d be allowed about a square foot for develop*
m if sown early in April they form quite large ment. There is also a white variety equally
bushes by the autumn. The soil must not be too meritorious. For the late sowings the ground
heb for them, and they like plenty of sun. They should be well stirred and in good heart, but
very weather-proof, and the flowers are ex- when sown to stand the winter, the soil should
trembly useful for cutting, coming in good per- of th® two, rather poor.

^ rd , fr0 !? z* ,hel n down - There Coreopsis tinctoria.

several kinds of these Crown Daisies, . . , . . .

raongrt which Burridgeanum and Dunetti are . This is a well-known annnal, having long been

’ey noteworthy. Being strong of growth, and m cultivation, bnt is of such great merit as to
** coveting a rich feeding |round, they are de ? e " e a few ” ords of . commendation. The
«*Ueut for planting in the foreground of bri 8 ht y el i°” black-centred flowers are very
rimbberies. showy, and look extremely well when backed

up by dark green shrubs. Several sowings
JJanvitalia pbocumbens fl.-pl. should be made during April. It is a capital

is not nearly so well known as it should plant for cutting, the 6tarry blooms on their
“Mor as regards effectiveness and continuity of long slender stems having a most graceful ap-
it is equal to many of th^most admired pearance.

Digitized by t -.Ot 'OTt*

s and continuity of
l the„mo8t admired

GOOgli

long slend
pearance.

Godetia Lady Albemarle
is one of the finest gains of late years. In size
and splendour of bloom it is almost unrivalled,
indeed, no other annual cau vie with it in these
respects. It has but one fault, viz., that it does
not well bear wet weather, as the gorgeous
crimson flowers are of the texture of satin, and
soon discolour. But iu a time of bright weather
it forms a striking picture of floral beauty. The
seed should be sown quite by the middle of
April, so that the plants get well established by
the summer. There is a massive beauty about
this Godetia which all must admire. It is quite
distinct from its congeners, as well as from all
other annuals. It likes good ground, and may
be left either singly or three plants in a clump,
6 inches from plant to plant; then it affords a
show of bloom which, in the full blaze of a
summer sun, is gorgeous and captivating in the
extreme.

Whitlavia grandiflora.

This is one of the least known annuals, and
is overlooked because it is not very showy, but
it is a wonderful pretty little flower, and is sure
to be liked by those who do not consider mere
brilliancy as the one great desideratum amongst
flowers. The flowers are purple iu colour and
bellshaped, drooping, and have a somewhat chaste
appearance. It likes a free, rather light, and
tolerably rich soil, growing about 1 foot high.
May be sown during April, but not later than
the middle of May.

Martynia fragrans.

This is seldom seen in the open air, and to tell
the truth it demands rather more warmth than
an ordinary summer affords ; but it is so distinct
and so exquisitely scented, that I advise all who
may have a warm corner in their gardens to give
it a trial, On a warm border, in rather light
soil, is the best place for it, and if it can be
sown in warmth, or in a frame, there will be the
greater chance of success. In any case it makes
a fine pot plant, and is much grown in that way
now, both for greenhouse and window deco¬
ration. J. C.

Byfleet .

Early dwarf Da ffodil (Narcissus minor)
—Everyone fond of spring flowers should possess
a clump of this charming little Daffodil.
Although not attaining a height of more than
8 inches, it is fully as vigorous as the larger
kinds, and I know of no Daffodil which is so
sure in blooming. We have a good sized clump,
every bulb of which has flowered without
missing for years past, and even the large double
aud single Daffodils are apt to be a little
capricious in this respect. Wherever hardy
flowers are grown this little Daffodil should find
a place.— Byfleet.

Alpine Auriculas for flower beds.—

We make a bed of these every year, as they give
but little trouble. Our stock is not composed of
the best and choicest varieties, but in the first
place the sorts were named. They may therefore
be considered to be superior to ordinary seedling
plants. Be that as it may, they are very accept¬
able plants in the spring garden, as they make
variety and are interesting to many. Our course
of management is very simple. At the end of
May we shall lift them from the beds; the
largest plants we shall divide into two, and leave
the small ones as they are. They will then be
taken to a north border under the shade of a
high wall. There they will be carefully planted
about 9 inches apart each way, placing some fine
soil pressed firmly about the roots. It is necessary
to take them up carefully and plant them in
their fresh quarters without any delay, as they
will be in active growth, and rough treatment
might weaken them. During the summer, more
especially during the months of June and July,
they must have an occasional watering, and
water must be given in sufficient quantity to
moisten the whole of the soil about their roota,
and as a matter of course they muet be kept free
from weeds; with these little attentions the
plants will go on until the time comes round for
planting them where they are to flower. We
reserve a bad iojrlhem maubmm. becaxuaX dq -

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

44

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[April 5, 1884.

not like to plant them at that time, having found
from experience that, although hardy plants, if
they are put out in the autumn they suffer more
from damp than when left undisturbed until
spring. I therefore defer planting them where
they are to flower until the middle of February,
or as soon after that time as the condition of the
ground will allow. A fairly rich soil broken up
rather fine is better for them than a poor sandy
or heavy staple.—0.

11204.— Pansies for exhibition.— The
ground colour of a Pansy is round the blotch on
the under and side petals, then there is a belt
which should be of equal breadth round the out¬
side of the petals till it joins the top petals,
which should be of the same colour as the belt.
Sometimes white grounds come all the same
colour in the under petals except the blotch,
which is sometimes due to the weakness of the
plant, other times again to the influence of the
sun, but they should never be staged for compe¬
tition. I give the points of a show Pansy, which
may be of some use. The eye should be in the
contre of the bloom, not mixing or running into
the blotch. The blotch should be dense and
solid, free from all mixing with the ground
colour. All two coloured flowers, of whatever
shade, should be perfectly alike in all the three
lower petals and of equal width between the
blotch and the belt. The belt or margin should
be of the same colour as the two top petals, and,
whether broad or narrow, should be of equal
breadth throughout, not mixing with the ground
colour. Selfs, of whatever shade, should be of
the same shade throughout, the denser the blotch
the better, except in dark seifs, which should
have no blotch. The outline should be of a per¬
fect circle, the petals lying close and evenly on
each other The petals should be thick, and
have a rich, glossy, velvety appearance. The
larger bloom (other properties being equal)
should be the better, but no bloom should be
staged under 1£ inches in diameter. — J.
Ormiston, Jun., Ancrum, N.B,

- The two top petals of white and yellow

ground Pansies should be of one colour only.
The belt is formed on the two side and lower
petals, and when a ground-coloured mark ap¬
pears at the base of the top petals, and is not
covered by the junction of the side petals, the
Pansy looks bad. The difficulty is to get it to
run dense and even, so as to form a circular
ground, and it is very apt to run out at the top
junction of the side petals.—B. H. L.

11256.— Dielytra speotabilis.— I should
like to point out that the two statements alluded
to.by “ Old Lady,” regarding Dielytraspectabilis,
are not inconsistent. In Siberia the ground is
frozen and covered several feet in frozen snow
till the beginning of June, after which an
intensely hot summer sets in. Now with us the
Dielytra appears above ground during the first
warm days in January, grows rapidly, and
flowers about the present time, unless sharp
frosts or cold winds cut it back. I think it will
easily be understood now why it is so seldom
seen in flower out-of-doors, except in the
warmest and most sheltered localities.—L. C.

-I am so fond of this flower that I cannot

resist saying a good word for it in answer to “ An
Old Lady.” It dies down to just below the
ground in winter, and in this state has always
proved itself hardy with me, but I cannot say
what effect such a winter as 1660-1 might have
on it. When above the ground, as it appears as
early as February and March, it will not stand
much frost without injury to the blooms, but
even when much injured it grows on into a nice
bushy plant, and later on throws out fresh
blooms. But best of all is it when potted up
(when if necessary it may be divided freely)
and put in a greenhouse, where it is blooming
now.— B. H. L.

- This plant was introduced from Siberia

to English gardens in 1810, as stated in Paxton’s
botanical dictionary, but it has been proved to
be perfectly hardy in this country, standing the
severest winters uninjured. The writer in
Gardening may also be correct in saying that
the flowers require protection in spring. How
does "An Old Lady ” make this out to be con¬
trary advice, the one writer was referring to
winter the other to spring. Dielytra spectabilis
frequently flowers well in the open borders, but
if protected when in flower from frost and
winds all the better. The leavel and flowers are

Digitized by CjQOSlC

both fragile and are injured by exposure to
severe weather.—J. D. E.

11267.— Hyacinth bulbs.— When the bulbs
have done flowering this year, the best thing to
do is to put them in a bed out of doors specially
prepared for them and made rich, and leave
them there till the autumn of the following year.
Any bloom shoots that come up in the spring
should be nipped out, leaving only the foliage,
and then the next spring the bulbs will flower
as well and even better than they did this
year. A good plan is to have two sets of bulbs,
so that one set may bloom each year. As for
those that are out of doors this year, carefully
lift them and place them in the prepared bed
and treat them as the others.—J. W. K itch in.

- As soon as Hyacinths in glasses have

done flowering, the flowers should be cut off
quite low down the stalk, and they should be
planted in a batch in the open ground, and left
there till the leaves have fallen off, when they
should be taken up and put into bran or sawdust,
and left till September, when they may be
permanently planted in the open ground.—
A. M. H.

- These will continue to flower year after

year in the borders. They will establish them¬
selves the same as any other hardy plant. We
grow ours two years in pots, and .afterwards
plant them out. We plant them out as soon as
they have finished flowering, and when in full
leaf.—J. D. E.

11264.— Propagating Pansies.— In reply
to ‘‘A. It.,” the best way to propagate’Pansies is
from cuttings from 2 inches to 3 inches long of
young growth, or else by layering the old stems
and taking the young rooted offshoots. The
cuttings can be struck nearly all the year round
if you have a cold frame. If you have not this
convenience you can strike them only when the
plants are growing freely. If you have them
under glass watch them to see that they are not
attacked with green fly. If these make their
appearance give them a good watering overhead
from a fine-rosed water can with a solution made
with one ounce soft soap and a little Tobacco
water to the gallon of soft water. If it is
frosty weather be sure and water them at noon
or sooner so that the foliage will get dry before
night. You must take cuttings or rootlets early
if you want early spring blooms. Give the bed
a thorough forking over once or twice before
planting the young plants in September, then if
you have the right sorts you will have a good
display in spring.— Thomas H. Davis, South-
well.

11240.— Plants for sunless borders —

But little good will come of attempting to grow
the ordinary run of bedding plants in a border
which gets no sun after 9 o’clock. They would
run to leaf and give but little bloom. But Pan¬
sies, both bedding, show, and fancy kinds, would
do well, also Violas. There are many kinds of
hardy bulbous flowers, such as Tulips, Daffodils,
Hyacinths, Snowdrops, Crocuses, Ac., which
would do admirably, also Lilies, such as the
Orange and Tiger. If the border were ours, we
would plant a few nice Ferns, some golden and
silver variegated Periwinkles, Gardener’s Garter
Grass, and mix the bulbs with them, which
would give nice variety. Primroses, both the
double and single kinds, and Polyanthuses, would
be at home there ; also Spirasa japonica, Lily of
the Valley, Solomon’s Seal, Anemones, Saxifrage
urabrosa. Myosotis dissitiflora, Primula Sieboldi.
and Mimulus. A selection of these would prove
satisfactory, whereas bedding plants would only
disappoint.—J. C. B.

11229.— Climbers for sunless wall.—

“Old Subscriber” will find Ampelopsis Veitchi
(Virginian Creeper) and Irish Ivy the two very
best creepers for north wall, both quick grow¬
ing and hardy. Your Ivy plants which do not
grow freely want generous treatment. If your
ground is clay, you should work it well up, add some
sand or light loam, and plenty of good farmyard or
horse manure, and when once the plants get a
start the growth will be rampant.— William
PHlLLirs, Ho ole % Chester.

- There is nothing better than Ampelopsis

Veitchi (Veitch’s Virginian Creeper), which
thrives well in a cool moist situation. Ivy grows
freely in most places when once it gets good
hold. Give the plants a good top-dressing of
manure at once and an occasional soaking in dry
weather, and they will probably start away
freely this spring.—J. C. B.

11257.— Violets In greenhouse -A p*
manent bed of Violets would not succeed in i
greenhouse. The plants require a great deal c!
air, which they cannot obtain in a greenhouse,
The Neapolitan Violets must be planted ii
frames to bloom, but then the glass lights cm
be removed in fine weather. You had fartetto
put something else in the greenhouse, and plant
the Violets in a frame from which the lights cu
be drawn off.—J. D. E.

11259.— Montbretia Pottal.— This plan
will not succeed in all positions in a garden, d:<
in any soil. The leaves become of a pale sick!?
green, sometimes spotted if it does not receri
the right treatment. Plant it on the shady >idc
of a wall or fence, and dig out a hole large
enough to contain a bushel of peat. The plait
likes a peaty soil. I have planted it in peat oc
the shady side of rockwork, where it is doit*
well.—J. D. E.

11208.— Plants under trees —I would re¬
commend the following, which are quite hardy
and evergreen, riz., Irish Anemones (double ad
single), Polyanthuses, Primroses, Oxlip?, Aubrie-
tias, Lungwort, Auriculas, Helleborus nigeraci
fcetidus (a lovely green), Ferulas, Iris germacicx
Kudbeckia Newmani, Violets, Doronicnmi,
Sedums, Saxifragas, Calthas, Campanulas, aod
Mimulus, with a lot of otliers more common but
too numerous to mention.— O. T. Kelly, Bhul-
rock, Dundalk.

11212.—Hyaoinths after flowering -
The bulbs should be taken out of the glasses aid
laid in earth, keeping them watered until tie
foliage turns yellow, but they must be protected
against cold weather; a frame is a good plan
for them. In the autumn they should be placid
in the open ground some 6 inches deep, where
they may remain, as they will be of no further
use for pot or glass culture.—J. C. B.

11245 —Sunflowers.— A very good plan to
raise Sunflowers to a good size is to sow the
seed at once in shallow boxes and place them::
a sunny window or a cool greenhouse. Tnu*
plant into the open ground when atoat 3
inches or 4 inches high. Do not sow the swi j
too thickly, or there will be difficulty in tranf
planting.— W. N. Cosorave.

11274.—Neapolitan Violets.—A b Boon as the ra- |,
nera of these are rooted, they should be taken cl
and planted In frames, ualng plenty of leaf mould. Io
fine weather, the lights should be removed, as IWi I
dislike a close atmosphere. It is not worth while t. j
divide the old plants.—J. D. E.

Double yellow Wallflower.— Mr. R. W. BeedeS j
The Nurseries, WnlHngton, 8urrey, has feut us«?pn; l
of a beautiful double Wallflower of a golden yew*
colour. Like all Wallflowers, it is deliciouily fnpwt.
aud it would, we should think, make an excellent plwi
for pot culture for early flowering.

FRUIT.

11255.—Sandall’s Plum is thus
in “ Hogg’s Fruit Manual ’’: “ Fruit medico
sized, round, resembling Orleans. Skin dad:
violet purple, slightly spotted, covered with*
thick bloom. Flesh firm, reddish yellow of
amber, adhering firmly to the stone, juicy, a™
with a pleasant flavour resembling that of tty
Damson. This is a very valuable late Plum for
culinary purposes. It ripens in the end of Sr"*
tember, and will hang for a long time. It d<
not crack with the rain as many kinds do.
tree attains a great size, and produces si
leaves and twiggy shoots like the Pami
Young shoots are smooth. It is much pro'
about Fulham and Chiswick for the markets.-*
J. M.

- This variety is not grown under arj

other name, and has been long grown about I uf
ham and Chiswick in the market gardens
forms a very large tree. The fruit is Faid
to crack as some varieties do after rain,
fruit is allied to that of the Damson, aod nj
about the end of September. Probably Me*
Veitch A Sons could supply it from their 1^
fruit tree nursery at Fulham —J. D. E.

11262.—Plums as espaliere.-The btyj
Bullace is one sold under the name of “
large Bullace,” but neither that nor the
are adapted for espaliers. The OOfflBJ*

round is the Damson usually grown, but fnttew

den’s is considered the best. The fruit is
largest size, and the tree most prolific. ' ict0 Jj
and many other varieties of Plum are * ^
adapted for espaliers. Victoria is the best 01

^R^T T V r P0f“t£.L 1 Phffi3l S AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

April 5 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

45

INDOOR PLANTS;

ARUM LILIES.

lla vKTHIOPICA, Kichardia, Arum Lily, or
ly of the Nile, by whichever name one cares to
11 it, is one of our every-day plants, grown by
and admired by all both for its handsome
ires and for its large white, sweet-smelling,
impet-sbaped flowers so called, but I suppose
eryone knows that they are no more flowers
an the sheath that envelops the Wheat ear.
le flowers are, however, inside that white
Limpet, and it is to their distilling energy that
,e sweet odour emitted from the tube is due.
rum Lilies are much used for the decoration of
torches about Christmas time, and again at
i^ter they play a prominent part in the same
ud of work. In order to have a good supply
the flowers of this plant the following direc-
ons may be followed with advantage : Early
t J une the plants should be shaken out of their
Dts, cut up into as many pieces as possible, and
.anted in trenches prepared as for Celery—that
, to three parts of loam add one part of fresh
>w manure, and place a layer of it in the bottom
l a trench about 1 foot deep. All through the
immer an abundance of water should be given,
ith a liberal addition of liquid manure as the
ants advance in growth. About the end of

better plan than that of planting them out-of-
doors during the'summer, a system practised by
some cultivators." All young suckers that are
found at the bases of flowering plants are re¬
moved and placed in shallow boxes, until they
become established, when they are potted into
their flowering pots, plunged in cold frames
during the summer, kept well saturated with
water at the roots, and moved indoors as
may be required for forcing. Old plants from
which the blooms have been cut are placed aside
until their leaves have died down, when they
are shaken out and all the toes, as they are
termed, or fleshy lobes of the roots, are removed
and placed in boxes to be subjected to the same
treatment as that described in the case of
suckers. A few weeks before Easter Mr. Reeves
has several houses full of these plants, and their
thousands of unexpanded spear-like heads form
an interesting sight; but to see their white
trumpet-shaped blossoms fully developed is, to
say the least of it, a grand spectacle. Arum
Lilies in 6-inch pots, with two or three heads of
bloom, fetch from 12s. to 20s. per dozen early in
the season, but later on they are sold at a much
cheaper rate, Richardia maculata, another
Arum Lily,is fast gaining popularity as a market
plant. Its leaves, which are spotted with white,
are equal to those of many of the Dieff enbachias,
and the flowers, though not so large
as those of R. aethiopica, are, neverthe¬
less, quite equal to it in every other
respect. This variegated kind requires
a little more heat than the green-
leaved sort, and it cannot be forced
quite so readily. It is, however, an
excellent room plant, and good dwarf
plants of it in the market do not long
remain unsold.

Arum Lily growing in a greenhouse tank.

eptember lift each plant with a good-sized ball
>f earth attached to it, and repot, placing them
.forwards in a shaded position in a cool house
or a few days, so that no check may be
aperienoed. When established, they may be
diced in a light airy position in a greenhouse or
frame, and as near the glass as possible. The
temperature should not exceed 55°, a degree of
warmth which will be sufficient to bring them
into bloom by Christmas time and onwards
until Easter. Resting or drying off for a time
afor flowering is not good treatment for these
plants; they should be well supplied with water
always. There is a variety of C. aethiopica known
aa C. hastata, distinguished by its yellow
flcwera. Both these plants are natives of the
Cape, and not of the Nile region. It is strange
foat neither the Lily of the Nile, nor the Sacred
Lotus (Nelnmbium speciosum), nor the Sacred
j«*d (Papyrus antiquorum) are now found wild
“ Egypt, nor does there appear to exist any
Pools of their ever having been wild there other
»an the name, which stands for but little.

For market. —Few flowers are in greater
wmand in the market at certain seasons of the
than those of Richardia (Calla) aethiopica,
!? Lily, They are used at Christmas and
^‘tertide for church decoration, and growers
rr »in every nerve to get in a large supply at
^ times, as they then fetch highly remunera-
prices. Mr. Reeves, of Acton, is one of the
cultivators about London of this so-
led Lily, and he grows his plants wholly in
POw, thinking it less t rouble ^ana ^ygctlje^ p

11233. — Chinese Primulas —

When the plants go out of bloom, place
them in the frame or in a sunny posi¬
tion in the greenhouse, giving water
only when quite dry, and never allow¬
ing the foliage to become wet. About
the beginning of August, having al¬
lowed the soil to nearly dry out, shake
away as much as possible without de¬
stroying any of the roots, which are
extremely fine, and repot in a pot one
size larger. Attend to them carefully
with watering, shade from very hot sun,
give plenty of air, pulling the sashes
off on mild, overcast days, or on still,
balmy nights. From the middle of
September they will need no more
shade, and may on fine days be left
open. By the middle of October they
should be placed in a greenhouse in a
light position, and in November they
will be coming into flower. Old plants
generally bloom earlier than young
ones, but the flowers do not come so large. After
the second year they should be thrown away. In
any case it is advisable to sow a little seed every
year, so that young plants may be coming on to
take the place of those that wear out. May is a
good time to sow the seed.—J. C. B.

11251— Camellias dropping their
petals.—When Camellia flowers are fully open,
the petals will drop in a few hours after they are
cut unless they are wired. This is done by
taking two pieces of fine wire about 6 inches in
length and thrusting them through the flower so
that they will catch the whole of the petals near
the base. The wires are then bent down and
twisted round the stem. The flowers would last
longer after they were cut earlier in the season
than they do now. There is nothing wrong with
your plant, flowers, or treatment. You must
shade them now.—J. D. E.

11227.— Azaleas over potted. —Your
best way will be to examine the soil, and if the
roots have not penetrated the fresh compost,
work it all away and place in pots but very
little larger than the old balls, or they may go
into pots just large enough to contain them. It
was quite wrong to be shifting Azaleas in
autumn, the time to do so being in spring after
flowering, just as the young growths are pushing.
If you look to your plants well through the
spring and summer, taking care that the soil is
maintained just nicely moist, syringing once or
twice a day in fine weather, and shading from
hot sun, the plants will recover by the end of
l-Jhe summer. Should there be any buds, it will

be better to pick them off before they expand
as they would probably not come to perfect
flowers, and the strain they would impose on the
plants would be more than they, in their pre¬
sent weak state, would be able to bear. Growth
should be completed by the end of J uly, and
then the plants should go in the open air until
the middle of September.—J. C. B.

11220.— Arum Lily.— Something must have
been wrong in the treatment, as Arum Lilies
seldom refuse to bloom if fairly treated. Per¬
haps it may flower this year, but in any case
about the end of J une shake away all the old
soil and repot in fresh compost, watering mode¬
rately until the plant commences to make fresh
growth, and ‘ then more freely, giving liberal
supplies of moisture when the pots get filled
with roots. Stand the plant in a cool shady
situation in the open air; the north side of a
hedge or building is a good place, where but
little sun and plenty of light comes. By the
middle of September place under cover, and take
care that the soil is kept well moist through the
winter, for the Arum Lily is aquatic in its
nature, thriving in a pond or tank. Give good
drainage, and use loam two parts and leaf-soil
one part, or any good free sandy soil will do.—
J. 0. B.

11118.—Habrothamnus fasoloularis.
—Unless strength is made annually, this does
not flower well. The best way of treating it is
to prune back the leading shoots rather hard;
now keep the soil somewhat dry for a time, and
when young growths form shake away as much of
the old soil as possible, and repot, or, if much
root-bound, shift into a larger pot when the
roots are some 6 inches long, using good loam
with some well rotted manure in it. When in
full growth water freely, give plenty of air, no
shade, and expose quite open from the middle of
August to the end of September.—J. C. B.

Azaleas— My Azaleas have not flowered for
two years. They were both in bloom when I
had them, but now they only make leaves. I
have turned them out both years in the summer,
but in a shady place. Should I have left them
in the greenhouse (only sun heat) till later, and
then put them in the sun later ? I should be
glad to be told the dates at which they ought to
be put out-of-doors.—M. A. B.

11276. — CarnationB for next winter.— Propa¬
gate the plants from cuttings at once, and grow them on
in the greenhouse near the glasB, or they may bo
placed out-of-doorB in an open but sheltered position
during the summer months. Older plants may be grown
on in tho same manner.—J. D. E.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.

Flower Garden.

The charm of a garden is the constantly-recur¬
ring freshness which the various plants present
at all seasons. Common Violets, red and white
Daisies, Crocuses, Primroses, Anemone apen-
nina, Arabis albida, and Scilla sibirica will soon
be in flower; and these will very shortly be
supplemented by Omplialodes verna, Irises,
Candytufts, Hepaticas, Gentians, and others.
All of these should be plentiful in every garden.
Expense as regards these plants need be no bar¬
rier, as they can all be had for a few pence each,
and can be transplanted at almost any season.
The denser Sedums and Saxifrages are appro¬
priate plants for association with the foregoing,
either as undergrowth or as intermediate patches.
The following are now very beautiful, viz.—
Sedum aureum, S. acre elegans, S. glaucum,
and S. lydium, Saxifraga rosularis, S. hirta,
and Thymus hirsutus. The smallest plant of
any of these, split up and propagated during the
summer, would make several good patches for
next spring time. Lily of the Valley is now
starting into vigorous growth, and its flowers
will be much improved if the inert surface soil
be removed and replaced writh fresh loam and
well-rotted manure in equal proportions. Beds
of Dielytra spectabilia and Spiraea japonica
should be treated in the same way, but it will be
necessary to protect these in the event of sharp
frost occurring. Mats laid on hooped sticks
form the simplest protection for them and other
spring flowers of doubtful hardiness. Where
spring gardening is not practised, and the beds
at liberty, a good deal may now be done to
advance the summer -bedding and prevent a
pressure of work at that inevitably busy season.
The arrangementa can fce completed, the designs

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

40

GARDENING ILL VSTRATED

marked out, and the hardy and half-hardy
plants may be at once planted. Edgings, divi¬
sional lines, and groundworks of Violas, Eche-
verias, Sempervivums, Saxifrages, Sedums, Men-
thas. See., can all now be planted with safety,
and very shortly Calceolarias and Verbenas
may follow. Autumn sown annuals may now
be thinned out; the plants are sturdier and
llower better than if left too thick. Sow in the
open ground Sweet Peas, Mignonette, Candy¬
tufts, Eschscholtzias, Larkspurs, and Clarkias,
and prick out those sown in frames as soon as
they are fit to handle. Bedding plants have
driven annuals for summer embellishment out
of our llower gardens ; and though this is to be
regretted it cannot be wondered at, seeing that
bedding plants are so much more lasting and
amenable to manipulation. Still, there is room
for both in most gardens—the bedding plants
for the parterre, and the annuals for the mixed
borders, supplementary to the herbaceous plants,
a purpose for which they are every way adapted.
Shrub planting, pruning, hedge clipping, and
all other extraneous work, should now be com¬
pleted, as each week will bring its own work
that must be done, such as mowing and
rolling lawns, sweeping, weeding, and rolling
walkp, and planting out bedding plants.

Carnations and Picotees.— Look over the
plants and remove decayed leaves; also weeds,
which will be sure to grow in the fresh compost.
Keep all tender sorts under the protection of
cold frames as long as it is convenient to do so.
If cuttings of perpetual-flowering Carnations
have not yet been put in, no time cught to be
lost in seeing that this is done. Those who are
desirous of having a large stock of plants should
put in the small side growths as soon as they
are large enough for that purpose. If these be
placed under a close glass light in the propa¬
gating house, not 5 per cent, will fail to strike
root. Cattings put in early and now well rooted
should be potted off singly in small pots, setting
the pots in a warm, rather close place, to induce
the formation of fresh roots; afterwards place
them in a cold frame.

Hollyhocks.— Seeds from the best sorts may
now be sown in the open air if there be no
glass lights or frames available, but they will
germinate more freely in a gentle hotbed, al¬
though they must not be coddled under glass
after they are above ground. Plants raised in
this way will flower well next year. See that
no time is lost in getting all named sorts planted
out, using the precautions previously recom¬
mended.

Pansies. —These are even more deserving of
attention than the Hollyhock, as they are at¬
tacked by no disease that cannot easily be com¬
bated. Plants in pots are now making a
charming display, and if the leaves have been
kept free from mildew and green fly, a continua¬
tion of fine flowers may be expected. When
the flowers begin to fall off in quantity, as they
will do in time, pick all of them off, surface-
dress with rich soil, and on this peg the shoots
down; this will produce renewed vigour, and
perfect flowers will be the result.

Hardy Primulas. — Sparrows are very
destructive to these when planted outdoors. We
have hundreds of Primroses and Polyanthuses
planted out, and it is disheartening to see the
flower buds picked off and dropped on the
ground in thousands before they open. Grown
in cold frames, the finer forms of Primrose rival
even the Auricula and laced Polyanthus. They
require but little attention, but that must not
be denied them; they must have free ventila¬
tion, plenty of water, and the leaves kept free
from red spider and greenfly. Plants of P.
nivalis are now masses of bloom, which is
admired by everyone. We place the plants under
a north wall when they go out of flower, and
they make free, healthy growth.

Annuals. —Although annuals do not, as a
rule, last loDg in flower, there are some which
may worthily rank with bedding plants, and
amongst these may be mentioned the following:
—Asters, Balsams, Helichrysums, Nasturtiums,
Ten-week Stocks, Phlox Drummondi, Portu-
lacas, Tagetes, Sanvitalias, and Zinnias, as
flowering plants, and Beets, Amaranthuses,
Perilla, Artemisias, Tobacco, Ice-plants, Sola-
nums, Ricinus, and Salvia argentea as fine
foliaged plants. There are also a few perennials,
biennials, and annuals which ^nay be raised

Digitized by (^QUOfe

from seed, but which are usually struck from
cuttings in order to preserve some special
character, viz, Ageratums, Verbenas, Lobelias,
Petunias, Gannas, Chamtepeuce, and Pyrethrums;
all these are beautiful as regards either foliage
or flowers, and, if carefully used, may be in¬
duced to produce a display almost equal to that
yielded by our most favoured bedding plants.
With the exception of Sanvitalia and Beets, the
whole may be raised in pots on a slight bottom
heat, and as soon as they are fairly out of the ground
they should be placed in a greenhouse for a few
days to harden off. A cold frame having been
prepared with rich soil, the flowering section—
with the exception of Ageratums, Balsams, Lo¬
belias, Petunias, Phloxes, Portulacas, and Ver¬
benas, which should be pricked of! in pots and
kept in moderate heat close to the glass—
should be pricked off about 51 in. or 4 in.
apart. The whole of the fine-folisged section
should be put into pots, pans, or boxes, and re¬
tained in heat. A knowledge of the heights and
colours only is then required to make a grand
display. A moist, warm day should, if possible,
be chosen to put them in the open ground, and
if taken up with balls of earth they will be sure
to succeed. Sanvitalia and Beets may be sown
where they are required to stand, and thinned
out where necessary. Pyrethrums, Petunias,
Lobelias, Ageratums, Gannas, and Ghanucpeuce
should, to have them in good condition, be sown
as early as possible.

Glasshouses.

Cyclamens done flowering should at once be
placed in a house or pit where the atmosphere
can be kept a little close, with plenty of light,
but slightly shaded from the sun ; these arc also
liable through the spring months to get infested
with greenfly and red spider, which, confining
themselves almost exclusively to the undersides
of the leaves, frequently go unobserved until the
foliage is very much injured, the result of which
is that it dwindles away through the summer,
and the roots get into a stunted, hard state,
which prevents their afterwards growing and
flowering satisfactorily. Where means exist,
and the hints that have been given are followed
for keeping back a few of the latest-flowering
kinds of Camellias, these will be found very use¬
ful in the conservatory during this month, along
with Epacrises, Boronias, Eriostemons, Azaleas,
Rhododendrons, the last batch of Hyacinths,
Tulips, Lily of the Valley, forced Roses,
Cinerarias, Ac. As the sun’s power increases,
there will be still more need for attending to
shading, or the flowers of most plants will be of
comparatively short duration.

Climbers that were cut back during the
winter, and that have now commenced growth,
must have regular attention in the way of train¬
ing. Those possessing a twining habit require
constant care in this matter, otherwise the shoots
get interlaced to such an extent that it is im¬
possible afterwards to get them disentangled,
and the young growth of all such plants as these
is generally so tender as to scarcely admit of
being untwined from anything that it lays hold
of without stopping further extension. Plants
of this description, either grown in pots, tubs,
or planted out in borders, where the root space
is limited, will, in most cases, require the assist¬
ance of manure water. It is, however, of little
use applying this unless growth is actually in
progress; for, if given at other times, the fer¬
tilising elements which it contains get washed
away by the usual waterings, and do no good.
In structures of this description the use of ordi¬
nary manure water is not admissible, from its
offensive odour, but if made from guano, with
a little soot, and applied early in the morning,
that objection will be obviated ; and in places
where nothing of the kind can be employed,
Clay’s or Standen’s manure dusted on the sur¬
face of the pots, tubs, or beds, where it gets
washed into the soil with the ordinary waterings,
will be found most effectual.

Tuberous-rooted Begonias.—A stock of
these should be grown in all places, large or
small, on account of their being so useful in
many ways. Roots of them started some time
ago will now have made some progress, and
should be furnished with root-room propor¬
tionate to the size of the bulbs. They will
thrive under ordinary greenhouse temperature,
but will come on faster if kept a little warmer.
Any remaining bulbs that may yet be in a dry

state should immediately be started ; they
come into flower later in the season.

Calceolarias. — The herbaceous v&riei
will now be growing apace, and should be
attended to with manure-water ; they are
feeders, and the advancing flower-spikes will
much benefited by it. They 6houla be kept
a temperature of 45° at night. There are
plants that require more care as to keep
them free from aphides, for if these be a
allowed to get ahead it takes a severe app
tion of Tobacco to kill them than the bk
will bear. The shrubby kinds are eqnally
serving of cultivation as the softer sorts,alt
their flowers may not be so conspicuous. T
are few more useful subjects for general dec
tion than the old C. aurea fioribunda. It is
viceable in the shape of small plants, such as
grown for the London market; but so mac
it is insignificant compared with the
which it assumes when grown on for years
regularly cut back each season after flow
something like a Pelargonium, part of the
being removed, and the plant repotted aimili
Any of the stout-habited, dark-flowered kin
are suitable for growing in the same way.
treatment which they want at this time of
year is such as that which answers for the
baceous sorts.

Cinerarias and Primulas.— Those wi
intend to save seeds of these should select t
best marked forms as seed bearers. In the
of the Primulas they should be 6et on a dry.
shelf, where they will get plenty of 1
choosing plants that have not been weak
through early flowering, as they will not
nearly so much seed as those that have
bloomed recently. With Cinerarias it is d
sary to keep the colours separate. Pot tbe
forms and colours of red, and also of blue,
well as the white ground with red tips, each by
themselves in 6mall frames from the time they
come into flower, selecting for the purpose tli
latest bloomers. Thus treated, these three colooa
will produce plenty of variety, including the many
shades of purple and violet; but only by keep¬
ing them apart can a preponderance of the bluet
and purples of different shades be avoided. A
little more Cineraria seed may again be sowi
towards the end of the month, and the plants
from the first sowing must be treated so as ti
prevent their being drawn up weakly. A little
Primula seed should also be sown to come into
flower before Christmas. Double Primulas m»y
now be propagated by means of cuttings kept i
little warm, but not so much confined, or they
are liable to damp. They are not nearly w
effective for decorative purposes as the single
varieties, but where flowers are much in request
for cutting, the double kinds are a great deal tie
best, as they last longer than the single ones.

Vegetables.

An additional supply of Broad Beans ard j
more Peas should now be sown. Of the latter,
if Champion of England, Veifcch’s Perfection ^
and one of the tall varieties, such as Emperor of
the Marrows or British Queen, are all put in at ^
once, a successional crop will be obtained. I’nlen ^
where the land is wet, Peas at this and sebse- ^
quent sowings should be sown in shallow tj
trenches, so that the soil covering the seed ^
should be about 1 inch below the surface level on ^
each side; this will admit of the liberal applies- ^
tion of water, which in dry weather is necessary
to them. To further assist them a quantity
of manure should be worked in deeply at
the bottom of the trenches. Do not sow too
thickly. At this and the succeeding sowing*
half the quantity of seed required earlier, or ^
when there was more to fear from the depteda- ^
tions of slugs and birds, will now suffice.
Spinach should be put in between tbe row* s
Peas or any vacant spaces, and a little mere y
Turnip seed, if required, should also be J
Of Seakale, if a sufficient quantity of roots be
at hand for planting, seed may now be sown.
making holes with a dibber and covering it ,
an inch of soil. Drop three or fonr Beeds in
hole, which should be 1^ feet apart in the ro». '
with a similar space between the rows, tbe# *
distances asunder being best suited to the pro- .1
per development of plants of this description- J

-- „!!

Mice. -The only remedy for mice injuriM
this, viz., ordinary two hole choke traps, set regw-W ,
and well, with meal or cheese. They will soon i

WH9ITY OF ILLINOI5 AT S
JRBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Ai ri i. 5, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTK4TEDZ

47

A COOLHOUSE ORCHID.

(C(£LOGYM£ CR1BTATA).

i is chaste and beautiful plant is certainly the
een of cool Orchids, and was introduced by
e distinguished planteman and traveller,
irtweg, who found it in woods near Guatemala
neava, a province in Mexico, possessing a very
oable temperature (the maximum rarely ex-
eding 80°, and the minimum 00°). Coming,
it does, from this temperate region, it is sur-
ising that many cultivators adopt a high tern-
rat are in its cultivation. I have had two
edmens bearing respectively 160 and 230
eulo-bulbs, upon each of which was a fine
bu»t spike of flowers. Opening in winter they
e invaluable for all purposes where chaste and
fined flowers are
quired. My plants
we been grown
iroaghout in an
rdinary house,
bere the tempera-
ire rarely rises to
eicept during
le hot summer
lODths. During the
ltumn, the plants
and in a cool vi-
ery or similar
ace, and are not
trod need into ar-
ficial warmth till
>e middle of No*
jmber, when they
re placed in the
yo\ Orchid house,
od kept at a tem-
eratore ranging
otn 50° to 55°, in
hich they at
briatmas com-
lence to expand
aeir lovely dove-
ke blossoms. As
xm as they have
one flowering,they
re re-potted, or the
K>ta examined ,and
upplied with a lit*
le ad mil tore of
brous peat, leaf-
aonld, and Sphag-
mm, chopped very
ce^ndsilversand.
hey are then well
ritered and kept
a the same tem-
■erature till the
ummer months,
vhen they are com-
jaratively dried
md exposed to the
vicissitudes of wea¬
ker we usually have
ioriog the autumn
nouths, merely re-
reiving the shelter
of the house they
rtand in. There is
no plant I am ac¬
quainted with more

TREES AND SHRUBS.

The Aucuba aa a pot plant.—If the
late Mr. Fortune bad done nothing more in the
interest ef horticulture than introduce the male
variety of this shrub, he would have merited
the grateful thanks of all lovers of ornamental
plants. In the open air of this country, how¬
ever, owing to the uncertain character of our
climate, the flowers of the female variety do not
always get sufficiently fertilised to induce them
to carry a crop of berries. The protection of a
glass roof is necessary to secure an effective dis¬
play, and the conservatory and greenhouse
during winter and spring can contain few more
attractive objects than fine healthy plants of the
Japanese Aucuba densely furnished with rich
scarlet frait. The
foliage of the plant,
whether under glass
or in the open air,
is very ornamen¬
tal, and when such
plants are raised
from seed there is
considerable diver¬
sity both in the way
of foliage and habit
of grow th, some of
the seedlings hav¬
ing the 1 eaves gree n,
while in others they
are more or less
blotched or varie¬
gated. Until, how¬
ever, plants show
indications of
flowering, their sex
cannot with cer¬
tainty be ascertain¬
ed; and as the fe¬
male, or berry
bearing plants, are
the most ornamen¬
tal, it will be seldom
necessary or desira¬
ble to have more
than one or two
male plants in a
structure, as pollen
is generally pro¬
duced in great
abundance; so
much so that artifi¬
cial fertilization is
hardly necessary.
Plants of any de¬
sired dimensions
may be used for
greenhouse decora¬
tion, as even when
of small 6ize they
produce their small
and very inconspi¬
cuous flowers in
abundance. As in
the case of the
Hazel, the pollen
generally appears
to be ripe long
before the female
blooms are expand¬
ed, but if the wea¬
ther proves at all
favourable, fertili¬
sation generally
takes place, effec¬
ted either by
insect agency, or by atmospheric action alone.
Not the least attractive objects in a large
garden near where I write are two large seed¬
ling plants of the Japanese Aucuba growing
in tubs placed inside a large span-roofed un¬
heated orchard house— one on each side of the
doorway. One is of the male variety, and has
very prettily marked foliage, while the other, or
match plant, iB a female, with bright green
foliage and literally covered with bright red
oval-shaped fruit. Both plants are handsome
pyramidal-formed bushes in an exceedingly
healthy condition. P-O*

Ridging ground in winter —There is
no method which more effectually brings garden
soil into a healthy state than laying it up in
ridges during the winter season. ■- This system
possesses a advantage, inasmuch as ■

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

easy to manage,
aod it is now so
cheap that anyone
posieaiing the
means of cultiva¬
ting it should

have it in quantity. „ _ __

in shallow pans suspended from the roof of
the greenhouse.—R. T.

A good winter-flowering Orchid for a greenhouse (Caologyne crUUU). Drawn In January last.

It grows and flowers well | dition of the bulb will be impaired. In the case
of Hyacinths and Narcissi, directly the blossoms
have faded tbe flower-spike should be cut off. If
I had my choice in selecting a suitable place in
which to ripen off the bulbs, I should select a
cold pit or frame in which there was a bed of
rich soil about 15 inches from the glass. As the
bulbs go out of flower I should cut off the flower-
spike, turn the plants out of their pots, and re¬
move the principal part of the drainage. I
would then plant them carefully with the ball
of earth intact in the bed of soil in the frame;
then by careful watering and shading from very
bright sunshine, they would soon root into the
bed, and in due time ripen a well matured bulb.

I have tried various expedients in dealing with
Hyacinths after flowering, but I have found none
to answer so well as frame treatment. When
planted in beds or borders such roots flower the
j^ext year in a very satisfactory manner.—0. 0.

Bulba after flowering.— All experienced
cultivators know that it is not possible to force
bulbs as Hyacinths and Narcissi in a satis-
ketory manner after the first year, but that is
oo reason why they Bhould not receive some
*U*ntion after they have done flowering, in
to assist them to retain their strength for
Very much of their future value de*
!*odi upon how they are managed after they
o* T « done flowering. Too often they are
roughly treated by being brought into the open
r from conservatories and other warm houses,
100 »t about in cold, draughty corners during
March winds, with very little oare aa to
state of the soil in which
Digitized by

I do not assert that even the most painstaking
treatment after they have flowered will make
them the second year equal to what they were
the first, but if well cared for now they will
flower the second year fairly well. The proper
treatment after they have done flowering is to
give them tbe shelter of a cold pit or frame or
corner in a cool Peach house, where they can
come under tbe eye sometimes, in order to make
sure that they do not suffer from want of water.
The right treatment may be described in a few
words, viz., keep the roots well supplied with
water, and take care that the leaves are not in¬
jured in anyway, as flowering next year depends
mainly on tbe condition of the leaves while ma¬
turing the bulbs. If the leaves are seriously
iojared or thoughtlessly cut off, the future con-

48

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[A PR.i. 5, 18S4.J

when the planting season arrives, it is known to
be in a sweet condition ; and by readily throwing
off the superfluous moisture it is more easily
brought into working order. On soils of a stiff,
tenacious character, ridging is indispensable,
but it may be safely affirmed that all kinds of
Boils would be much benefited thereby. If a
very neat and trim appearance is indispensable,
then in most cases I would prefer to merely
clear the ground and let it lay untouched until
the beginning of March. Freshly dug ground
would appear to retain an undue amount of water,
which has the effect of rendering it pasty and
sour. This more especially applies to rich
alluvial soils, and I have often noticed that where
the surface has been left untouched, and even
covered with weeds, the soil will, when dug in
the spring, appear much more mellow, and be in
far better working order, than that which has
been carefully dug over. I would therefore
reoommend either throwing up fallow ground
into rough ridges (the rougher the better), or
letting it alone altogether. Simply digging I
consider a mistake, and whoever desires to ensure
neatness thereby must expect that he will ex¬
perience a great amount of labour to bring the
soil into that sweet, friable state which in
vegetable culture is the very mainspring of
suocess.—0. S.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 34 .)

Fruit Culture.

Though as regards the large commoner kinds
of fruit in favourable seasons heavy crops are
produced, yet, much of it, through bad cultiva¬
tion and neglect, is of a very inferior character,
and until the matter be intelligently taken up
by all who have gardens, fruit culture will not
receive the attention so important an indus¬
try deserves. Old trees are left standing in
orchards and gardens long after they cease to be
profitable, and young trees are planted without
due preparation being made, or else placed in
positions unsuitable for them. All this points to
lamentable carelessness, or ignorance, or perhaps
to a combination of circumstances, probably not
the least influential being the unjust law which
gives everything placed in the soil to the land¬
lord. Again, much loss is incurred both in time
and money through the planting of unsuitable
varieties. Fruit trees have their proclivities, or
at any rate they possess different degrees of
adaptability and hardiness, and this explains
why some varieties succeed in one place and
fail in others, and much judgment is required
to select varieties for different soils and situa¬
tions. The nurserymen’s lists want weeding.
There is a profitable trade to be done by any
skilled propagator who would select about fifty
of the best Apples, and a less number of
Pears (Plums there is less difficulty about), and
work up a large stock on suitable stocks, The
kinds will require selecting with judgment, and
must be those of a cosmopolitan nature, that
have been proved to flourish in pretty well all
situations. Lists will be given further on that
it is hoped will meet this requirement.

The Selection op a Site for Fruit
Gardens,

if one has any choice in the matter, is of great
importance, as I have often come across orchards
where, from various local causes, the trees had
no chance of doing their best. A gentle declivity
trending southwards forms the beat position, or
it may have a bearing to right or left of a full
southern exposure. The top of the hill or
plateau is not so good, because of the absence of
shelter, which in fruit culture is all-important,
neither is the base of the hill, nor the low ground
in the valley, suitable; for though there we might
find spots sheltered from wind, yet the late
spring frosts will destroy the blossoms and
dispel the fruit grower’s hopes of profit. As
regards shelter from cold winds, belts or clumps
of trees at a safe distance are beneficial, and a
good thick hedge near has special merits.
Whoever plants orchards or fruit gardens must
seriously consider this question of shelter. If
shelter has to be improvised, which in many
cases it will, the best and cheapest is living
tree and shrub growth, and there is no reason
why the shelter belts and groups should not
assume an ornamental character suitable to the
place. As I have^ already hiijted, the thick

Digitized by (jQ gTS?

Thorn hedge in the small garden will be a great
help. In more extended places, where a space of
some 20 feet or 30 feet or more in width can be
spared on the windward side, a feature possess¬
ing both ornament and utility may be speedily
created. One of the best trees for resisting sea
winds is the Wych Elm. It is tough and pliable,
grows rapidly, and will bear pruning. Here,
then, we have a tree which may be trusted to
face anything in the way of wind for the most
exposed situations. Fast growing Evergreens,
such as Hollies, Laurels, Yews, Boxes, inter¬
mixed with Standard Thorns, or a bright rosy-
cheeked Apple, or a Laburnum to give elevation
and variety, may form a serpentine belt, or
be arranged in irregular groups at the will
or pleasure of the planter, without formality
or stiffness.

Soil and Preparatory Work.

It is admitted on all hands that a loamy, or, in
other words, a mixed soil, is the best for fruit
culture; and provided it is deep enough, the
character of the subsoil is perhaps of less im¬
portance. I may explain that loam is a mixture of
clay and sand, and is light or heavy, according
as one or the other predominates, and it takes its
character chiefly from the rock formation of the
neighbourhood or district. In selecting the
site of a garden, if we think of growing fruit
largely, we should carefully examine the character
of the soil, and especially its depth. For though
as regards a few wall or other pet-trained trees,
the soil can be improved or made entirely, yet at
the best the game is hardly worth the candle,
and such trees call for incessant attention. I
do not say this attention may not be advanta¬
geously given where needed, but I have often
met with gardens badly chosen when as good a
site and much better soil was close at hand, and
which might have been had. If it requires
draining, that will be the first essential, and a
good deal of money has been uselessly spent
upon such work by laying down hard and fast lines
as regards depth, without taking into considera¬
tion the nature of the soil. In springy land a
few drains deep enough to tap the springs will
be of more use than a larger number of equal
depth. It is necessary in draining that a know¬
ledge of the district should be acquired before
much work be done or money spent by the engi¬
neer or whoever has the direction of the work.
In any case the drains should be deep enough to
escape the roots of the trees. Speaking gene¬
rally, an average of 4 feet will be a suitable
depth. Various materials have been U9ed in the
formation of drains in different districts, but
there is nothing better than pipes or tiles of
proportionate bore to the work required. When
the pipes arc well and truly laid with the pro¬
per inclination to the outfall, 6 inches of
stones, if available, may be laid on the pipes
before the earth is filled in. This is,perliape,not
absolutely necessary, but in wet districts it has
much value.

The Orchard.

The definition of the term “orchard,” as gene¬
rally understood now, is a collection of fruit
trees (chiefly Apple) planted in parallel lines a
certain distance apart, and it is usually placed
in the background in the neighbourhood of the
kitchen garden, and is laid down in Grass, the
latter being fed off with sheep. In old times
it is probable the orchard was, more strictly
speaking, a fruit garden, containing fruit trees
of various kinds, and though I do not object to
Apple trees anywhere, yet I cannot help think¬
ing that the old idea of a fruit garden,where the
Apple, the Fear, the Plum, the Mulberry, the
Filbert, and all other kinds of hardy fruits may
be planted therein, is a pleasant thought, and
more profitable withal than the orchard on
Grass. I have always found in practice the
modem orchard a wasteful system of fruit
growing. In the first place, to do the trees jus¬
tice the whole of the ground should be broken
up deeply and the surface be cultivated for a
few years, till the trees are established. This,
however, is seldom done, so the trees are started
under difficulties, for simply digging a hole and
thrusting a tree into it is only an enlarged sys¬
tem of pot culture, and then these holes of loose
soil in very wet times are apt to collect all the
water near, and under its chilling effect Moss
begins to form. Then again, the expense of
protecting the fruit trees from sheep and cattle
in their early stages is something considerable,
and let a guard get out of order and be neg¬

lected only for a short time, and the
or cattle will find the unprotected
and of course the bark very probs^J
will be peeled off all round the stem, and t
tree dies. Then in after years, when tket.
have struggled through all their difficulties ai
have arrived at a profitable size, every Apple 1
other fruit which drops from the tree is eaga]
snapped up and consumed by the livj
creatures waiting beneath. Of course, the t
ject has another side, and many people like I
see their homesteads embowered in fruit tr«|
But I wanted to show that when any giveu si
can be given up to fruit culture our piesi
orchard system is not the best to adopt,
the same time, I would say, plant Apples a
Fears in every suitable locality. Flant on gial
if you like, or in hedgerows, especially thir
newly made, because the fences which prcti
the young quicks will save the fruit trees fii
injury. But in planting, whether it be a
tree or a group, have the ground thorongM
broken up and intermixed, though without c
turbing the bad subsoil in the bottom, for ^
least a space of 6 feet in diameter, where a
tree is to stand.

Fruit Trees for Ornament.

The planting of Apples and Fears within i
precincts of the ornamental department is:
a new idea, but rather the resuscitation of a h
old one. There is more beauty in a weU-gici
Apple tree, for instance, than many of s
smaller trees planted as ornaments in 1
grounds attached to villa residences. It is tr
the Apple smacks too much of the culinary ■!
p&rtment to have become the vehicle of conv<
ing poetic sentiment, such as clings to ;!
Thom, but the latter is not superior to tl
former in any one particular; but the prejudjtj
against the planting of Apples near the hoa
is disappearing, and nothing further need I
said about it. To give fruit trees a chance
competition with other trees and shrubs, thi
should be planted at the same time, and
somewhat narrows our choice of site, as it wed
be only in new gardens where such facilitil
exist. But in the regulation of old shrubbeni
and pleasure grounds positions could easily t
cleared for fruit trees, and a new and interesting
feature be introduced. The brightest colour®
varieties will give the most ornament. Blecfceii
Orange Apple, where it thrives, is a very bar<
some variety, and one of the best. Cox’s Ojacg^
Fippin is another handsome kind. Fern’s Pippin,
again, is quite a picture, with its crimson cheeky
fruits, and seldom fails to bear. Of late kind®
of Apples that may be recommended for plat¬
ing in shrubberies, the Norfolk Beau fin will be
found very valuable, being a sure bearer, and
the fruit highly coloured, especially in autumn

The Ideal Orchard.

The shape it has assumed in my mind is»
sheltered enclosure devoted entirely to fmi*
culture, and it should be so fenced in and pro
tected that even a rabbit should not gain ad¬
mission, or, at least (as I know how difficult it
is to deal with rabbits), if they once got in tber
might abandon all hope of getting out, and a
little dog and a gun would soon ma«
short work with them. In shape tee
orchard may be round or square or oblong,
as shape is a matter of no importance.
It might be laid out in blocks or beds for the
convenience of planting, and the different kinds of
trees may be grouped together. Thus, Appk*“
one place, Plums in another, Cherries in a thud'
then Fears, Nuts, and so on, and beneath all-
forming the underground, would come
fruits, Itaspberries, and Strawberries. Such a
fruit orchard would be most interesting
profitable, and the last item will weigh .with
most planters, for a fruit garden which is not
profitable must be a constant source of dis¬
appointment, no matter how much one o*;
strive to keep up the interest. The diff^ren
beds or quarters of fruit trees should be ist**
sected by paths of some kind. I have
Grass used with effect, and over the paths shoui-
be placed arches for training fruit trees on, sue
as Fears and Apples. A great deal of fin?
may be grown on such arches. In their co -
struction there is room for a good deal e
ingenuity, and a mind possessing w
originality will probably get off the beaten •
Wire arches for fruit trees are expensive,
there are other simpler and cheaper vayfi
covering f» walk with bearing fruit tiee* 1

JRBANA-CHAMPAIGN

April 5, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

40

nplest form of all is to plant maiden trees
feet to 6 feet apart on each side of the path in
lira. Lead them up by training to a stout
like till they meet over the centre, then graft
e two together, when they will soon prove self
pporting. In the course of time side shoots
ay be taken out horizontally, 1 foot apart, till
ty meet the branches of their opposite neigh-
mra, when they also should be grafted together,
will take some little time to accomplish all
da, but half a dozen years is not much in the
te of a fruit tree, and the trees would be
i bearing long before all this was completed,
he vegetable garden, so far as regards all
*rse things at least, would be better under a
leaper, simpler system of culture than obtains
} present. I do not say the land should not be
ell cultivated, but surface polish, which too
ften takes the place of good cultivation, need
Dt monopolise so much time, and if the fruit
ad vegetables were separated, the latter would
and a chance of getting their full share of sun¬
line, and the fruit trees might grow in peace,
ith roots unmutilated by the spade. The upper
r top crop (referring again to the fruit garden)
wuld be composed of tall standard Apples and
ears at not less than 25 feet apart; Plums and
berries, at from 15 feet to 20 feet, according to
inds; whilst rows of Filberts and Nuts may
itersect at suitable points. The bush fruits
nderneath should be planted in rows G feet
part, and be 5 feet asunder in the rows. The
ispbemes and Black Currants should be planted
•here the land is moist and deep, and they do
tirly well in more shade than suits other fruits,
he shelter of the tall trees will benefit the
ushes in cold springs, and the undergrowth
ill be of some advantage in checking the keen
urrents which would rush fiercely beneath the
eads of the standard trees where no under-
rowth exists. In this way, the system is well
igh perfect; in fact, in my humble opinion,
here is no better or surer way of obtaining a
ood supply of fruit at the cheapest rate than
lis of the mixed garden or orchard. In the
reparation of the ground, trench it up deeply
1 winter, when labour can be hired cheaply,
u spring plant it with Potatoes to clean it and
ree it from weeds, and the free use of the
ork and hoe during the progress of the Potato
rop will be of great advantage. In the autumn
►lant the trees as soon as the leaves fall,
lomeone who understands such matters should
elect them, to insure healthy trees with straight
tout stems. The Apples, being the hardiest,
hould be planted on the windward side. Then
oight come a plantation of Pears, Plums, and
Cherries. Positions will also be found for
iwarf Apples on the Paradise, and Pears on the
)nince, so that all systems of culture may be
^presented. It often happens when the tall
rees fail the dwarf trees nearer the ground are
well cropped. This is the outcome of the fickle
nature of oar climate, which, in spite of all our
efforts to screen and shelter, will make itself
felt. It will be seen from what I have written
that 1 advocate the giving up of the sheltered
enclosures to the fruit, and moving the vege¬
tables a little further out, where, so far as re¬
gards the Potatoes at least, expensive manual
labour will not be so much required. Whatever
cheapens and simplifies gardeninghelps to spread
its influence. In the following chapters I shall
hdee our cultivated fruits in rotation, beginning
! with the Apple ; and whilst giving all necessary
details as regards culture, will yet be as brief as
possible. E. Hobday.

VEGETABLES.

Vegetable Marrows— This useful vege¬
table needs starting into growth early, so as to
get the longest season possible. We sow early
in March in brisk heat, and as soon as the young
plants are large enough they are potted off singly
in 3-inch pots, and when well rooted are gradu¬
ally hardened off in cold frames, and in April
they are planted out under hand glasses, cloches
or any temporary glass shelter. For the first
crop we plant on heaps of garden refuse that has
been collected during the preceeding winter,
and which produces a gentle bottom heat, from
decomposition, with the daily increasing solar
heat growth is rapid, and the young plants soon
fill the glasses, and need more space. We ele¬
vate the glasses on bricks, so that the points of
the 6hoots can run out, and as soon as danger
from frost is over, remove the glass protection
altogether, a mulching of litter is placed over
the roots, and in dry weather liberal supplies of
water given, and the fruits are cut directly they
are large enough for use, as if allowed to get
seedy they soon check successional fruit from
swelling. For a successional crop we sow in
April and plant out in May, on any good piece
of ground, and these come in most acceptable
towards the latter part of summer, for when any

£ -

Roses under glass.— Such Roses as are
growa ia conservatories, or in any structure
along with other plants, require especial care at
this season to sec that they are free from
aphides. Where planted out, if the soil needs
manorial assistance, this should at once be given,
M on this mainly depends the successional crop
of bloom. Where Hybrid Perpetuals are used
. to quantity for forcing they should now be in-
taxtoced to tho Rose house in succession ; these
' will givo flowers at a time when the Tea varie-
ties that have been earliest at work are begin-
®tog to fall off more or less, but even in the
of the latter it is surprising how they will
■*? yielding a succession of bloom if they are
JpilaTly supplied with manure water from the
fefi when they are first started; without this
fe after growth cornea too weak to bloom

prolonged period of drought reduces the supplies
of green vegetables, the Marrows come in as a
most efficient substitute, and should there be
any overabundance of them they may be allowed
to grow to mature size, and when fully ripe hung
up in a dry shed for winter use. The white
and green-striped are best for general use, and
the Custard Marrow is by some considered a
very superior variety.—J.G., Hants.

Squirting Cucumbers. — These are
grown for distillation alone. They are raised
from seed sown in frames similar to those of
Vegetable Marrows or ridge Cucumbers. About
the end of May they are planted ont-of-doors
in light, rich soil, in rows from 4 feet to 6 feet
apart each way. The fruits are gathered before
they are fully ripe—a condition in which they
are liable to burst, and thereby become useless.

Digitized by

Go gle

FORCING SEAKALE.

Few who see the delicate white bundles of
this vegetable lying in greengrocers’ windows,
or who enjoy it for their dinners, have any idea
how it is grown, or of the great change that
has taken place of late years in the mode of
forcing it—a change which, by rendering the
work much less laborious, has cheapened the
article produced and placed it within the reach
of those who rarely, if ever, could taste it
before. The old plan of managing Seakale was
to have beds of a certain size with plants in
clumps, so that they might be covered with large
costly pots, made with lids at top for the pur¬

pose. This was only a very small part of the
preparations required for forcing, as the more
serious portion had to follow, which was the
getting together of a huge mass of fermenting
material to surround and cover the pots. This
big pile of manure and leaves had then to be
watched by inserting trial sticks to test the heat,
which would perhaps get to a violent pitch,
when to prevent the Seakale being burned and
spoiled, the whole heap had to be shaken over
and turned. This turning at once effected the
lowering of the temperature, and very often lost
the heat altogether, when more manure had to
be got and added to start fermentation afresh.
Things would go on in this uncertain way, when,
after a time and much searching, some of the
pots might be found to contain a few crowns
ready to cut, while plants in others had not
moved at all, or were just beginning to push. In¬
stead of the mountain now going to Mahomet,
Mahomet has to go to the mountain, or rather
the Seakale is taken where the heat is, which
is much easier than the other way, as the
roots may be dug up and wheeled in a barrow
or carried in a basket, and packed together in a
very small space.

By adopting this method, almost anyone
can find a suitable place to force it in, as all
that is needed is warmth, for no light or air is
required; indeed, they must be
excluded, or the Kale will not
blanch. Where only a small quan¬
tity is wanted, a large deep flower¬
pot or tub is as good as anything,
as the roots may be put in either,
and filled in between with fine
soil; and if then covered quite
close over the top, the Seakale
may be forced under the stage of
a plant house, in a stokehole, cel¬
lar, or shed, in a stable, or any¬
where that waste heat can be had.

If there is no place available, the
pot or tub containing the Kale may
be buried in a bed of fermenting
leaves or manure, where, if the
heat does not run above 80°, it will
shoot quickly and come very strong.
Those who have only a limited
quantity of roots and cannot spare
any to take np for forcing, may still
forward what they have by turning
any spare flower-pots over the
crowns, as the pots absorb and
conduct the warmth from the sun
to the air within, the temperature
of which is raised considerably, and
this excites and brings on the Kale.

To have this bright and white, the
pots must be well pressed on the
ground and the holes in the
bottoms blocked by dabbing a
piece of clay over them so as
to shut out light, otherwise the
Seakale will be of a purplish hue. A good way
of retarding this excellent esculent is to cover
the beds with strawy litter, which, by keeping
off the sun from the ground, retards the roots
considerably, and thus prolongs the season’s
supply much beyond the time it conld be had
without having recourse to this practice. Some
use cinder ashes and others earth np the crowns
of their Kale to blanch it, but when so buried
the heads are generally stained and the Kale is
never so good. Those who have not beds of this
vegetable will find this a good time to make and
start them, work which should be set about first
by well preparing the land. The way to do this
is to manure heavily and trench or dig deeply,
as the roots of Seakale go far down, and like
plenty of rich stuff to feed on. Plants of Sea¬
kale may be raised in two ways—the one by
means of thongs, or portions of the old roots,
and the other by seeds, the former being prefer¬
able, as by adopting that plan very fine crowns
may be got in a season.

In the selecting and making of the sets, the
strongest parts of the lower roots should be
chosen and cut up into lengths of 3 inches or
4 inches, but care must be taken when doing so
to make a distinction in the two ends by making
the top flat and the other sloping, as beiDg of
the same size all through many of them would
be likely to get planted upside down, and thus
fail to grow. The distance at which the sets
should be planted is about a foot, and 18 inches
from row to row, which will give ample room for
the spread of foliage, and enable the plants to—

UT\

BANA-CHAMPAfGN

GARbEmWQ ILLUSTRATED

50

develop fine crowns. The way to pat in the sets
is to have a line, when by the use of a small
dibble to make the holes the sets may be
dropped in, and the holes filled up around them
by raking the ground after, or by casting in a
handful of sand, which is always advisable if
the land is at all wet and stiff, as the sand pre¬
serves the root pieces from rotting. Seakale,
being a maritime plant, is fond of salt, and if a
sprinkling is sown over the beds when the plants
are growing it will not only help them greatly,
but be of much use in keeping down weeds, and
therefore save both labour and time in hoeing.
If seed is sown, the earlier it is got in now the
better, as it is important to give a long season’s
growth. The seeds being large may be sown in
drills in rows the same distance apart as advised
for the plants, and the seedlings thinned out
when large enough, leaving the young plants
about 10 inches or 12 inches asunder. S. D.

The Fluke Potato.— I have been a
very successful grower of Fluke Potatoes, and
a 9 my method has a feature of peculiarity in it,

1 am induced to ask you to give me space for
making it publicly known. The peculiarity in my
process consists in my using no manure, com¬
monly so called, but placing in the bottom of the
trenches in which the Potatoes are planted a mix¬
ture of dry coal ashes and recently slaked lime,
two-thirds of the former and one-third of the
latter, from 4 inches to 6 inches in thickness. In
other respects my Potatoes are treated in the
ordinary way, unless I may name, as an exception,
that I allow more room for growth than most per¬
sons I believe do, for I plant not less than 3 feet
distant from row to row, and from 20 inches to

2 feet apart in the row. My Potatoes thus planted
have produced in each of three successive years
a remarkably large crop of excellent flavour,
nearly, I may say practically, free from disease.
Thus grown, my Flukes,too,have not had attached
to them the stringy substance which often forms
a part of the substance of the Fluke. What
renders my success the more remarkable is that
the soil in which the Potatoes were planted i* of
a close, clayey nature, unfriendly to the growth
of Potatoes when cultivated in the usual man¬
ner. The plot of ground planted by me has
been the same from year to year, and comprises
nearly half-an-acre. I may mention that in the
same ground I have planted and treated a few
Magnum Bonums in the same way, but this kind
of Potato seems to be nearly disease-proof wher¬
ever grown; their flavour is poor at all times,
but I think it improves when they are grown as
I grow the Flukes. I have planted Flukes in pre¬
ference to every other kind of Potato, because
when they can be had of prime quality, like
those I produce, my opinion is they are for the
use of the table the most valuable of all the
Potato tribe.—G. B. B.

Sowing 1 seed In drills —I have heard it
stated that a heavier weight of crop can be
obtained from a piece of land where the seed is
sown broadcast than can be got off another
piece of the same size (other things being equal)
where the seed is sown in drills. If this be
correct, how might it be accounted for ? Is it
because that in the former case, when the plants
are thinned, they are left equal distances all ways,
whilst in the latter instance they are arranged
at unequal distances ? It is in the nature of
plants when expanding horizontally to extend
themselves equally every way, any deviation
from the circular form being the effect either of
internal disturbance or external obstruction. It
is a law common to both physical and vital
agency, that counteracting influences cause loss
of power. Therefore, I venture the assumption
that to leave plants at such distances from
each other in one direction as will check their
full development, is to waste their strength
and growing capacity; whilst granting on the
other hand, that the shorter distance allows of
their complete growth, there must necessarily be
a waste of space between the greatest distances.
I have read of planting Magnum Bonum
Potatoes G feet from rank to rank, and 4 feet
apart in the ranks. Why should there be this
difference ? Surely it cannot be for convenience
of earthing up. Again, Parsnips are often sown
in drills 18 inches apart, andare thinned out the
other way to 1“
would there

qitizesj

o 12 inches. What disadvantage
fcdi in haying the] drills 15 inches

distance and the plants left equal distances each
way ? Of course, the number of drills to draw
would be one fifth more, but the extra trouble in
the hoeing would be insignificant. I merely
bring this forward as a suggestion. I cannot
speak authoritatively on’the matter, as I have not
the certain evidence of facts to support my argu¬
ment. I have many times thought on the subject,
but, influenced by a failing unhappily too common
to human nature—an indisposition to leave the
old grooves (worn deeper by habit), in which one
is first placed—I have never tested the thing by
actual experiment. In gardening, more than in
many other pursuits, this maxim cannot be too
carefully borne in mind : to admit nothing as a
settled principle that is not known to have been
verified by experiment.—L. C. K.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

1125G.— Dielytra epectabills.— "Old
Lady” may easily have the two statements re¬
conciled. Plants of Dielytra have been growing
in my garden for many years—fifteen or more,
and never do they require protection as plants, but
they are at this time 5 inches high, and should a
keen frost come, such as we have had about this
time last year, these young shoots will be more
or less destroyed; the bloom would be checked,
and no doubt somewhat inferior. The mildness
of our winters and the late occurrences of frost
are what cause trouble in growing many plants
coming from colder countries. In their
native habitat the growth does not commence
till the winter frost is over, after which there is
no return to nip the young growth. —Leicester.

- In reply to an “ Old Lady,” allow me to

say that Mr. Douglas and “ A writer in Garden¬
ing ’ are both correct in what they assert; for,
Gilbert White, in his “ Natural History of Sel-
borne,” says, “ For this reason also plants from
Siberia will hardly endure our climate, because,
on the very first advance of spring, they shoot
away and so are cut off by the severe nights of
March or April.”— Grey Mouse.

11270.— Moles. —Is there no mole catche in
your neighbourhood ? If not, you must set
traps in their runs. Cast iron traps for catch¬
ing them can be obtained at any ironmonger’s
Are you sure they ate your Celery and Potatoes ?
I fancy rats are more likely to be the culprits.
The mole does not live on such things. The
water mole does.—J. D. E.

[April 5, 1814*1

quite free from them. It is also very neceij
not to allow any rotten wood to be in the gr<
house, as the bugs are very fond of it. A \
good plan would be to put several pots of t\
and water about in the greenhouse instea
the one.— J. W. Kitchin.

11269.—Bone manure.— "Novice" i
safely use Beeson’s blood and bone macait|
his pot Hoses, on which I am confident it i
work wonders, if he applies as follows,
get an old label or piece of wood and loosen |
surface thoroughly, then apply about two oui
of the manure to a Hose in a 8-inch pot, i
give a good watering through a fine-rosed i
can. Of course, the manure would act i
better if incorporated with the soil at the I
of potting, or as a top-dressing, if the pot wo|
allow of the manure, then a top-dressing of u
loam.—J. M. W.

11264 —Pan eiee for spring beddini
If you have a frame at your disposal yon c
fill it with sandy mould, and cover the sni
with sand ; next take off the heads of the Pa*
for cuttings and put them in the frame. W|
well and cover with a glass light so as to
them pretty close for about a week, after t
time air may be gradually given on warm
and in about a month you will have a nice i
of plants. Another good plan is to sow m
a box and place it in a frame, and when
gradually harden off. If you have good seed
will often get some good sorts.—J. W. Kitci

- Put in the cuttings early in July,

plant them out in the beds as soon as the u
summer occupants are removed. The ordi]
Pansies are not so hardy nor so free as Vi<
and suffer much during severe frosts in wii
They would be at their best about the end
May, and it is grievous to have to destroy thee
for common Geraniums or vulgar Calceolaria -
J. D. E.

11216.— Wasps.— A perfectly effectual safe¬
guard is what used to be called Grecian
(hexagon) netting, but it is not now easily met
with. I inquired lately at several drapers' before
I found the real thing. It has about 110 per¬
forations in the square inch, and is rigid enough
when nailed over all openings (windows aoi
ventilators) to bear a coat of thin paint. Hota
may be made for sash rods to pass through
Mine has lasted twenty years painted. It seen-*
strange that some such protection of expect
houses is not universally adopted.—W. G.

- Use plenty of boiling water.— Mole

- Do not quarrel with your best friends.

Moles will not attack you or your Potatoes, but
will eat every kind of worm or grub. Your
Celery is not eaten by Moles, but by milliped,
often by mistake called wireworms.—A.

- You can get an iron trap at the iron¬
monger’s. Set it in their run (a fresh one). They
are easily caught.— Son op Adam.

- Cast iron (spring) traps which may be

obtained at most ironmonger’s, 6d. each, are the
best to catch moles. In setting, be careful to
remove all loose soil from their run. Put the
trap in firmly, and deep enough for the nozzle
just to miss the bottom of the run. Place a
little grass across the trap, and cover over with
loose soil just sufficient to exclude light. Select
a place where the run is straight, and an inch or
two beneath the surface, and if possible where
the ground is firm. If not, tread their run in,
which they will soon open, then put in your
trap, which will soon catch the depredator. I
have never known them to eat Potatoes or
Celery, but they will disturb the plants in their
search for worms.—E. T. P., Horn grove.

11260. — Woodlloe in greenhouse.—

Tree or green frogs destroy this pest in the
greenhouse if you can keep them in by putting
netting over the ventilators. Toads will also
eat them. They will get under slates laid on
the ground, or in pots with some dry hay in
them. You can kill them by pouring boiling
water over them.—J. D. E.

-I think a plan that I tried last year for

the same thing that answered very well with me
would suit you. I dug a small hole in the
ground large enough to hold a bucket which I
filled with sugar and water (just enough sugar
to make the water sweet), and placed in the hole
in the evening. In the morning there were
several bugs in it and also a lot of slugs. This
went on for some time, and now I think we adj

11157.—Mistletoe on Apple treea-
Mistletoe is decidedly injurious when present
quantity, and it sucks out the juice of the tree,
but a piece or two on a good sized tree does no
harm. In Normandy, where no sentiment is
attached to this parasite, and where it
with great freedom, it is looked upon as a cure*
to tree growth, and is destroyed as far as it i*
practicable to do so.—J. Cornhill.

11159.—Portable greenhouses and
surveyors.—If “ Happy Thought” and “PDMpp
Fact” were to mount their greenhouses on s®* 1
wheels, instead of a single layer of bricU J
question whether even the most energetic o!
district surveyors could interfere, as it
no longer be a fixture, but a moveable structure
—call it what you please. Is it the stove
speak of that caused him to order its removal
If not, I fail to see what danger would accrue to
the houses contiguous.— Claptonian.

11271.—Propagating Hyacinths.-The» a ^^

pagated from offsets or by cutting the bulb tnr«
above the root stock. When the top part of the
planted, a great number of tiny bulbs will t onn ,
cut portion, which are to be removed and planteJ
they are dormant.—J. D. E.

11231.—Caterpillars on Gooseberries- 5 ^
the Infested trees with Glshurat compound at the rtf .
four ounces to the gallon. If one application
enough, follow up with another the following <*■][• !.
will bring them off the trees and generally kiU*

J. C. B.

denlD?:

any book ever published on gardening.--S0H 0T* Dl

11208.—Grass near shrubbery. -Cu*
from near shrub. Keep ground clean, and It J
real nice fence, peg Laurel down on both «“**»* ■
fence like a big letter A.—Mol*.

11273.—Cucumbers or Tomatoes for prjK
Tomatoes are the most profitable if you taw * .
year round, and the best variety is the com®*®
They do not require bottom heat.—J. D. E.

11280.— Cats on trees,— A |mal! sir gun
p'lauta. Cats do not come twice.—M ole.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

PRIL. 5, 1884]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

51

£50. —Nitrate of soda for plants.— The exact
>\ity for use in water is one pound to twelve gallons,
this proportion of nitrate ought not to be exceeded.—

272 —Azaleas not flowering.— " J. R ” does not
where or how he is growing his Azaleas. If he will
>, we may help him.—S on CP Adam.

—Daisies.—Pull them up. Do not run the
• log machine ; it only spreads seeds and makes more
U.—MOLE.

. if. W. —The brown spots are probably caused by
pa. Syringe the plants with Tobacco water, say one
cc of common Tobacco steeped in hot water. Use

jo nearly cold.- E. M. S., Edgicarc—Try Messrs.

Ur Jc Co, Secdsnieu, High Holborn, London.-

liner. —The omi-sion is only temporary. It is only
ng to want of space just now.

'rrpisxed One. —Go to some trod nursery where all
kinds are to be seen. You will then learu more in a
minutes than we could tell you in a long letter. You
cot grow the SUphanotls successfully in an unheated

chouse.- G. F. T.— Many thanks. The Polyanthus

t Is well worth keeping, but it is not particularly

Buckfuld.—1 . Saxifraga gcum; 2, S. hypnoides: 3,

lucifolia; 4, Scdum oppositlfolium.- A. E. 11.—

nd 2, Sal* la Heeri.- T. L. —1, Omphalodes vema;

*rohus rernuus ;3, Saxifraga crassifolla- Enquirer .

Uatilon, but we cannot name the variety from a
tie leal.

Heather.- Get a few schedules from the secretaries

i milar societies and shape your own accordingly.-

Beginner. -Get a descriptive catalogue from some

wer of Chrysanthemums.- F. N. P.— We canuot

oe plants without specimens.

B., BaVuun.—ilr. Douglas, Great Gearies, Ilford,
will give you what information you need if you
te to him.

tames of plants.— Beta.— Specimen received in
ivelled condition, and, as far as can be judged, all
eo from the same plant, a somewhat finely-divided
in of Aspldium spinulosuin. All four fronds from the
) numbered 3, which are only partly developed to those
inhered 1, 3, and 4, in different stages of develop-

nt, seem to belong to the same plant.- M. J —

tonodoxsLudllfc.- L. V.— Narcissus incomparabills.

-D. Ji. U.— 1, Narcissus iucomparabilis; 2, double
-iety of No. 1.- A. Godley.— Andromeda floribunda.

QUERIES

times for Correspondents.—A U communica¬
nt for insertion should oe clearly and concisely written
one side qf the paper only and addressed to the Editor.
HXrrt relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name
id address qf the sender u required, in addition to any
m de plume to be used in the paper. Aiiswers to Queries
ould always bear the number and title qf the auery
ulcered. When more than one query is sent each should
on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity qf
m>£siKQ going to press a considerable time before the
ly sf publication, it is not possible to insert queries and
mmumcations the week they are received. Queries not
wend should be sent to us again.

N anting 1 plants. —Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
n be named at one time, and this only when good
•edmens are sent. We do not undertake to name
i rieties qf florists' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums,
uileos, as these can only be correctly named by a
walist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any
nnmu nicotian respecting plants or flowers sent to name
wold always accompany the parcel.

11317.—Plants for verges.— From my garden gate
) the boose I hive an 18-inch gras3 verge on both sides of
le wait At the entrance gate are two trees which
mn a nice arch, tinder which I cannot Induce any kind
I grass to grow, so that about 8 yards of the verge is
•aro earth, thus quite spoiling the entrance. I greatly
rtih to keep the trees, but would like to do or have
omething for the verge under the trees, which would
&t detract from or be an eyesore to the general ap¬
pearance of the garden. Will anyone please help me
at of my difficulty by suggesting what would be the
beet substitute for the bare verge, and yet be in keeping
with a proper termination of the grass t—J. T.

11318.— Plants In conservatory.— I have the
Luna^ement of a small lean-to conservatory, which is in
s dudy situation, the sun not reaching it before 11 30
s m It is heated by hot-water pipes, so that I can com-
nund something approaching on intermediate tempera¬
ture. We grow a mixed collection of plauts, which are
always grouped rather thickly. Ought I to be successful
with t^e following Allamauda Hendersoni,PolDsettlaa,
Hougainrillea glabra, Kucharis amazonica. and Stepha-
Aotis floribunda T We have a small greenhouse, In
which is kept a stock of bedding plants, and sufficient
h»t used to keep out frost.— 8am.

11319.— Azaleas not blooming 1 .— I have two Aza-
la* in aood leaf, which show no signs of flower. I
toaght them in flower last spring, grew them on after
repotting In a south greenhouse, put them out-of-doors
At the end of July, brought them back into the green¬
house at the end of September, and have kept them
there ever since. No artificial heat, except about two
«)* to keep out frost. What should I do to ensure
their flowering next year? Should I repot them again
this year, or will it do if I give them artificial manure?
hsitfso, what anl how much? Should I put them out
wiiw this year, as they have not flowered ?—L. D.
lttto.-Magnolla unhealthy.—I should be much
if anyono would advise me what to do to a
«VDolla 11 feet high trained up against an angle in the
**11 of my dwelling house. The leaveshave looked pale for
**o years put, and there are not many on the tree. The
ivdeuer dug a hole round it in July last to the depth
feet6inches, and filled it with loam and manure,
prt K does not look any the better. He also cut off the
mike it break out at the bottom The angle of
faces south. The natural soil is poor Bagahot
•““■-A. E. W„ Bournemouth.

1 soil is poor Bagahot

Go gl

11321.—Plants for window cases.—I am about
getting two outside window ferneries, which will be open
to the house and will be unheated. I should be much
obliged if someone would kindly give me names of some
suitable ferns wherewith to stock them; also of other
fine-leaved or flowering plants that would be likely to
succeed in them. Though facing south, they will be
shaded by my neighbour’s house, end will get very little
sun. As I live near the sea coast in the south of Ireland,
the air is naturally moist, and we seldom have much
frost.— Tr a more.

11322.— Leaves dropping off Rosea— I have a
email greenhouse in a border in which are planted a
Mardchal Niel and other Tea Itoses. They all formed
young leaves and buds, but the leaves, for no appareut
cause, have begun to drop off in large quantities. It is
heated to a small extent by a gas calorigen (advertised in
your paper), but the atmosphere has been kept moist and
well ventilated by toplights. Can anyone tell me of any
remedy, and what is t he probable cause T The leaves are
quite natural, and there are no insect vermin.—K.

11323.— Draining a*garden.— My garden is lOOfeet
long by 80 feet wide, and apparently requires some kind
of drainage. There is about 18 inches or 2 feet of good
brown loam, then a layer of yellow clayey loam. Through
this the water seems to have great difficulty in passing,
the yellow substance being very hard. What kind of
drainage will be best, and how is it to be accomplished,
and at what cost ?— Dudley.

11324.— Treatment of Orange trees.— Two years
ago I bought a small Orange tree of the otaheite kind I
believe. It then bore three Oranges. It soon became
unhealthy, but after a little care It is now in a healthy
condition. How should I now proceed in order to get
some Oranges to ripen, not for eating, but for ornament ?
It has not been repotted since bought Should I repot it,
also will the flowers require fertilisation to cause it to
fruit? If so, how is the operation to be performed ? It
is iu an ordinary greenhouse.—W. M.

11325.— Marechal Nlel Rose.—I have a Mardchal
Niel Rose tree which is now about eight years old. It
usually bears grand large Roses, but this year it promises
to eclipse any former production. I have counted no
less than eight shoots having clusters of four buds each
I am rather afraid it is attempting too much, and there¬
fore ask the opinion of some reader as to whether I
should remove the three buds and leave only oue bud to
each shoot ?-J. D. W.

11328.—Manuring dwarf Roses.—I should be
glad if any reader could give me any information on the
above, as I have a number of dwarf Roses, out the soil is
very poor. I got a quantity of well-rotted horse manure,
but before putting it on the ground I dug up well about
the trees, then laid the manure on. Afterwards I covered
it all over with soil. Will this make the trees bloom
well? I did not dig the manure into the soil.—R oses.

11327.—Chrysanthemums for greenhouse —
I have potted my rooted Chrysanthemum cuttings accord¬
ing to advice given in Gardening. I want to have
them to bloom in the cold greenhouse in the autumn.
Ought I to plunge them in the garden border for the
summer, and if so, wbat sized pots should they go into
for that purpose ?—M. A. B.

11328.—Grafting Acers and Rhododendrons.
—Ought the scions for grafting Acers and Rhododen¬
drons to be taken off in the same way as Apples and put
in the ground for a week or two, and whether they ought
to be covered in clay, and is it a good plan to water the
craft (the clay I mean) when growing ? Can it be done in
the a itumn?— Geo. W.

11329.—Climbers for trellis- work.— Will some¬
one be good enough to tell me which are the best sorts
of climbers for trellis-work ? 1 have a large quantity of
trellis-work. The subsoil is clay, with about 2 feet or
3 feet of surface mould. The garden is being well
drained.— Reader.

11330 — Roses unhealthy.—I have some Rose
trees which I think are not very healthy ; they are full
of buds, but all the young leaves are shrivelled up and
white on the surface. I should be glad if some reader
would tell me the reason, and what would be best to use
for them.—C onstant Reader.

11331— Scale on Acacias.— Will some reader of
Gardening Inform me how to get scale off some plants
of Acacia armata and A. grandis? The plants are
making good growth, but all the old growth is full of
white Beale. The plants are 3 feet or 4 feet high.—A
Lady Gardener.

11332.—Arum Lilies with small flowers.—I
have a great many plants of Arum Lilies perfectly
healthy, which blossom very freely, but all the blooms
come small. What can I do to Increase the size of them ?
Are there two sorts—a large and a small flowering kind ?
—Constance.

11333 — Carnations deteriorating.— Two years
following I have had Carnation pipings given me. They
were planted in a border of the kitchen gardeu to strike
in both instances, and most of them have become com¬
mon white Pinks. Can anyono give the reason and
remedy ?—J. T. Trefpry.

11334.— Black-fly on Peach trees.— Will some
reader give me advice how to got rid of black fly on
Peach trees ? They attack the trees when in full bloom.
The Peaches are in a cold house and are Just set—
Young Gardener.

11335.—Mildew on vines. -What can I do to
vines, the leaves of which for several years past have
been mildewed soon after they expanded ? The mildew
afterwards extended to the Grapes. The vines ore
planted outside the house.—3. H. F. J.

11336.— Evergreen Ferns.— Can anyone give me the
names of a few hardy Ferns that will keep green all the
year round ? I want to plant Borne in Fern pots for the
dining-room. The pots are perforated like Orchid pots.
— S. A. C.

11337.— Birds and Grass seeds.— Last year In
powlng fine Grass seeds I had the place infested with*
birds that seemed to pick up every seed. What could I
do to prevent a recurrence of the nuisance ?—E. W. C.

11338.—Marechal Niel Roses.—Will some prac¬
tical Rose urower say whether air given above Roses in a
I greenhouse is likely to cause mildew J—Milks.

11339.— Orange tree losing Its leaves.— Can

any reader give me Information about an Orange tree ?
I have one in a pot that has had twenty Oranges on for
twelve months, but all the leaves are falling off and no
new ones appear to be coming.—S. A. C.

11340.— Nitrate of soda.—I shall be glad to know
if this fertiliser may be used with satisfactory remits in
the rearing of Rosea in the opeu air, and if so, when,
how, and in what quantities it should be applied to the
plants, also how frequently ?—CALICHE.

mil.—Lilium auratum—I potted two bnlbs of
Lillurn auratum some three or four months ago, but as
neither show any signs of coming up I fear I have made
some mistake in potting. I should feel much obliged if
some one would instruct me.—A. W.

11342 —Watering plants.— Will someone please
give some directions as to watering plants in green¬
houses, also advice as to watering tree Carnations,
zonal Geraniums in flower, Abutilons, <fcc., in the cool
months?—J. E. H.

11343.—Candle plant not blooming.—I have a
Cacalia artlculata (or Candle plant) which I cannot get
to bh>om. Could anyone suggest the proper treatment
for its growth end blooming?—0. O.

11344.— Syringing Azaleas. — Should Azaleas be
syringed when in bloom, and what should be done with
them after blooming? Should syringing be still continued ?
—J. E. H.

11345.— Repotting Begonias.—I want to know
when large-leaved Begonias should ba repotted, so as to
hido Borne of the large ugly stalks. How are they pro¬
pagated, and at what time of year?—M. A. B.

11346.— Hoyas and Stephanotls.— Could any
reader inform me whether an Moya carnosa and Stepha¬
notls will flower in a greenhouse without artificial heat
in the summer?—G. H. B.

11347.—Shading greenhouses.— Would any
reader kindly advise me as to the best method of shading
greenhouses? I have two houses, three quarter span,
each 20 feet long —E. W\ C.

11348.—Propagating Double Stocks.— What Is
the best method of striking cuttings of double Stocks,
the most suitable time, and what compost should be
used?-D udley.

11349.—Clematises in pots —Can Clematises be
grown satisfactorily in large pots In conservatory ? If not,
what are the beat creepers that can be eo grown?—L on¬
don AMATEUR.

11360.— Packing plants —How can plants be packed
for a voyage to New South Wales, and is there any
Custom House duty to pay on landing?—W. B.

11351.—Figs for outdoor culture.—Will n w
Harris, Barnstaple,” who wrote on this tubjoct, kindly
give the name of the Fig that ripenB its fruit bo well as a
standard on the Bristol Channel ?—Z.

1135-2.—Orange trees not flowering.—I have
some Orange trees five or six years old and about 4 feet
high, grown from the pips of the Maltese Blood Orange
but they never flower. What is the cause ?—K. L. E.

11353.— Shrub for wall.— I have a wall 10 feet high
and would like to plant a shrub or anything that would
thrive and look well and soon cover the walL What
would be best ?—E. Y.

11354. — Wasps and bees in fruit.—I would like
to know if bees or wai-ps were likely to be found in
Plums on trees in the summer time in the middle of the
night. Is it the nature of the bees or wasps?—E. Y.

11355.—Drive well tubes.—Col. Green’s patent.
Who can say where they are to be obtained ?— A. B. C.

BEES.

SEASONABLE NOTES.

It is well to continue to look ahead and take
care to supply oneself in good time with all ap¬
pliances necessary to the successful carrying on
of modem bee keeping, in connection with the
bar frame hive.

Sectional super boxes in which to obtain
pure comb honey are a great acquisition. In
no other way can honey be obtained in so in¬
viting and saleable a form. These sections are
made by machinery, of white wood, of a tough
nature, and were formerly imported in large
quantities from America, but are now manufac¬
tured in this country from English wood —Lime
tree and Sycamore. They are made of a size to
hold, when filled, just one pound of honey. They
are manufactured all in one piece, being sold in
the fiat by the hundred, and merely have to be
folded; the thin shavings left in three of the
corner?, after grooving, being sufficient to hold
them together when the dovetailed ends are
joined. It is necessary to wet the joints before
folding, or they are liable to break: by the use
of a block, however, they can be folded perfectly
true without risk of breakage, and if a little
thin glue be used in the joints of the sections
they are much strengthened thereby, although, if
no glue be used, the bees will propolise the
joints together, and make them sufficiently firm.
They have to be furnished with the comb founda¬
tion treated of in the last article, and are placed
in crates on the top of bar frame hives when
honey is coming in freely, the bees readily
storing their surplus honey in them. Strips of
wood, zinc, or tin are placed between each sec¬
tion box, which insures flatness and even thick

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

52

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[April 5,1884.

ness of combs; without these separators the
combs would be built out beyond the width of
the section, and cause much trouble in removal.
Sections are also worked in the body of the
hive, being placed in wide frames next the brood
nest, a sheet of queen excluder intervening. By
this arrangement surplus honey can often be
obtained when the bees are not disposed to store
at the top of the hive. These wide section
frames have only a bottom bar and two ends,
which are kept firm by wood separators.

Bee veil. — Although many experienced
apiarians perform all operations without pro¬
tection of either veil or gloves it is not wise for
the beginner to go amongst his bees without
having at least his face protected, as being safe
from the possibility of being stung insures cool¬
ness and confidence—qualities so essential to
the successful performance of all operations with
bees. A bee veil can be made of coarse net
about 1 yard by 18 inches. The ends can be
fastened together and a piece of elastic inserted
in a hem round the top; this will fit round the
crown of the hat, the lower part being tucked in
the coat at the neck. The rim of the hat will
keep the veil from the face and immunity from
stings be secured. Bee veils can, however, be
purchased very cheaply ready made, some hav¬
ing finely-woven wire instead of net, which
obviates the probability of the wind blowing the
veil against the face—an event which a savage
bee will sometimes make the most of by taking
the opportunity of inserting its sting in a pro¬
minent feature of the apiarians face. Another
very useful companion to the bee-keeper is the

Smoker, by the use of which bees can be sub¬
dued and handled with impunity. It consists of
a tin tube with bellows attached. Lighted
touch-wood, brown 'paper, or fustian rags are
placed in the lower part of the tube, the smoke
from which is puffed by the bellows as required
into any part of the hive. The effect of blowing
smoke amongst the bees is to cause them to fill
themselves with honey—a precaution they always
take on being alarmed. It is found that they
will seldom sting when in this gorged state. In
order, therefore, to make them harmless, it is only
necessary to puff into the hive a little smoke
from the smoker a minute or so before commenc¬
ing operations upon a hive, care being taken not
to give an overdose of smoke so as to stupefy
them. Sprinkling bees with their syrup also
has a very soothing effect. They busy themselves
in licking up the syrup, and seem to forget their
acger. If the smoker be placed on end, the fuel
will continue to burn a long time, there being
sufficient draught through the tube to keep it
smouldering.

Queen excluders consist of sheets of zinc
having rectangular perforations, these perfora¬
tions being of sufficient size to allow the worker
bees to pass through them, but being too small
to admit the queen or drones. A sheet of ex¬
cluder zinc is fixed to a frame, which can be
dropped into the hive at any part desired, thus
confining the queen to as many bars of comb as
deemed necessary for brood rearing. The
workers pass through the perforations into the
honey chamber and store their surplus honey
there in frames or sections, which are removed
as filled. S. S. G.

Boxrvorth.

Do pigs pay ?—So asks J. Edward Yaux
in Gardening. Yes, they do, and right well.
Let Mr. Grunter grind his own Barley, then you
know he has it. If he has plenty to eat, clean
water to drink, and a dry bed, with run each
day in field, a road just to pick up a bit of soil,
he wants no more, and will pay good interest
for trouble Pardon me, but never measure
food, always use the scale. I know some millers
do not like it, but I know a reason.— Mole.

I read with great interest in your paper the
experience of Mr. J. E. Vaux with his pigs.
I cannot see what he has gained by fatting his
own pigs. You can buy a fat pig 15 score 12 lbs.
(312 lb3.) at 9s. per score, which is a fraction
under 6£d. per lb.; and if he weighs his meat
as he is'putting it in salt, and again when it is
dry, he will find that a penny per lb. will be
under the mark to allow for sinking weight.
The market price of barley meal, I believe, is
13s. per sack—of course, that will make a great
difference. I think barley meal will produce
the cheapest meat, but Indian meal will fat a
pig quickest. Fatfing pigs wjjll pay farmer

Digitized by (jQ "

gie

during cheese-making; cottagers will not reap
much benefit by them. I knew a working man
who rented a quarter acre of ground and raised
a lot of Parsnips; he boiled them and mixed
them with Indian meal, and sold his two pigs to
the butcher at lie. per score. Those pigs paid
him £2, but pig3 were dear then.— Son of
Adam.

POULTRY.

Diarrhoea. — Notice. — You will nearly
always find with Brahmas that the feathers or
fluff about the vent become fouled, but if the
looseness be not great no notice need be taken
of it, although, of course, before exhibiting, the
part must be thoroughly cleansed with soap and
warm water. It certainly detracts from the
appearance of the birds, more especially with
light Brahmas. If, however, diarrhcea is
decidedly present among the flock, they should
be fed for a day or two on well-boiled rice
sprinkled with powdered chalk. Do not give
them the very cheap broken rice sometimes sold
under the name of “ chicken rice,’’ but some
good soand stuff. Only give water after meals,
and a very good plan is to boil a stick or two of
Cinnamon in the water and give when cold.
Cayenne pepper is also very good and may be
sprinkled on the rice. In very severe cases the
patient must be confined in a warm dry place,
and a pill consisting of equal parts powdered
chalk and barley-meal, moistened with spirits of
camphor, should be given morning and evening
Food and drink as above.— Andalusian.

Breeding pigeons.—I should feel obliged If any
correspondent would favour me with a remedy for the
following: —I keep a number of pigeons, blue rocks,
dragons, etc.,but I never can get any young ones. 1 Had
eggs deserted, young pigeons dead in the nest, <kc., but
none brought to maturity. What can be the reason?—
T. H. B. H.

Aylesbury ducks.— I bought some white Ayles¬
bury ducks, they have red legs and light beaks. I am
told they are not pure, and ought to have light legs. I
should be glad if someone would give me some informa¬
tion on the subject. Some of them lay blue eggs.—G. C.
Smith.

Beet fowls.— Dorkings are the best birds for table
purposes, as they carry a large quantity of white meat,
but they are not good layers in confinement, and being
delicate they are difficult to rear. Tbe best cross for the
table are Game and Dorkings, as they make capital table
birds and are ready to kill at ten weeks old, but can be
kept much longer.—A. M. H.

Diarrhoea in fowls.— The best cure, and one I have
always found most successful, for fowls suffering from
diarrhoea is brandy mixed with barley meal and made
into pills. This should be given twice a day until the
fowls are cured.— A. M. U.

Silver pheasants.— Would anyone kindly ,tell me
of the right colour of a silver-pencilled pheasant cock? I
got one sent me and its plumige is brown, silver tail, red
ears, and white and dark head.—W. B.

AQUARIA:

MANAGEMENT OF AN AQUARIUM.

If m A. B. B.” desires to be successful in the
management of a fresh water aquarium, he must
bear in mind the principles on which aquaria
are established, namely, that the animal and
vegetable life must balance each other, also that
the situation is very important, whether placed
in a north or south aspect, and also the tempe¬
rature of the room in which the aquarium is
situated. As I was very successful about twenty
years ago with both fresh and salt water
aquaria, I will give the result of my experience.
In the first place, avoid putting in soil; let only
coarse sand, or, better still, fine shingle (well
washed and free from sea-salt) be put in to the
extent of 2 inches or 3 inches at the bottom;
put in the plants some time before introducing
the fishes, in order that the oxygen given out by
the growing plants may be able to support fish
life. 2nd. Begin with only a few fish, one or
two to the gallon is quite sufficient, and these
must be only small ones, as minnows, stickle¬
backs, or very small goldfish or carp are the
best. 3rd. Avoid changing the water, and put
in clear water; rain water, if clean, is the best,
except in towns; but spriDg water, if
not too hard, will do very well. Should
the green confervoid growth appear on the
glass, only remove the growth from the front
glass with a piece of sponge fastened on to a stick,
oe an old nail brush tied on to a piece of wood
al one end. The green growth on the stones
should not be removed, as it tends more than
any other plant to keep up the oxygen, for the
life of the fish depends upon plenty of oxygen

in the water. 4th. A south aspect is the won*,
place to have an aquarium in; east is the best,:,
the morning sun is beneficial; the mid-day sunk'
summer causes the fish to gasp, and tendB to cao«
too much vegetable growth. 6th. Vallisnerii
spiralis is the best water plant; Hydrocharu cen¬
sus ranae (Frogbit) is a very good and interne-
ing plant, though much liked by water snai<s.
Anacharis Alsinastrum (Water Thyme) is ak i
good plant for giving off oxygen, bat gron
rather too fast, and has a tendency to choke tp
the tank ; put in at first, the aquarium will U
sooner able to support fish life, and, if growiw
quickly, might gradually be taken out as the
Vallisneria increases in growth. Some of tbs
Lemnse (Duckweeds) may be put in as soonu
they grow in the various ponds around,and will l«
interesting and useful for a few weeks,especially
if microscopical subjects are desired. 6th. Is
feeding the fish, Mr. C. P. Stewart's suggestion t!
last week, namely, dried beef steak, is a very goed
one. Do not, however, give bread if the water Is w ’
be kept clean and not thick, as bread easily decor-
poses, and if given, the excess should be remote:
in a few hours. 6th. A few snails are useful!
much green growth comes on the glass, bet
beware of introducing the common pood &&1
(Lymnea stagnalis), as he will eat anythirs i
the shape of vegetable life, and is very food cf
Vallisneria and Frogbit. Planorbis corneas (tbe
horny coil shell) and Paludina vivipaia are goed
snails, and clear the glass of the conferva:
growth, but in an irregular way ; the sponge ce
the stick I have mentioned will still be neemrj
for the front glass in order to have a good vie*
of the interior. Very few snails are, howettr,
required if sunlight is kept out of theaquariuc
except for about one hour early in the morcirg
If these rules are attended to, as “ A. B. B.”gaits
experience he will find ont the aquarium to U
a source of interest and pleasure, and cot otf
of mortification and loss of time. Before con¬
cluding, allow me to warn “A.B. B.’’ against
introducing the beetle called the water tiger, ss
he is a most carnivorous creature and the hra
will kill all the fish. A few caddis flies in their j
beautiful and curious cases, also the aquatic j
diving spiders are most interesting and harmless
If newts are put in, or tadpoles, a piece of cork
(flat) must be allowed to float on the surface cf
the water. A piece of glass raised about half-
an-inch above the rim is useful to keep the
dust out of the water and prevent evaporau’c:
Of course, when the water becomes low from
evaporation a little more must be added at the
same temperature as the room in which the
aquarium is situated. In the winter, pl«*
the tank out of reach of frost, especially on
cold nights, or an ugly crack in the glass mj
cause the loss of most of the creatures in tte
aquarium, and make such a mess of the room
that the aquarium will be considered a noiwiitt.
Should the aquarium ever require cleaningoct
or rearranging, draw off the water with &
syphon, and be careful not to remove the gT t€C
moss growing on the stones, but if it is
dirty or decayed, carefully wash thesestonesio
a stream of clean water, and then replaoe them
in the tank. I have, I believe, mentioned all tne
necessary points to be attended to in stocking
and managing an aquarium, and as they are
the result of some five years’ experience, I t*™
that “ A. B. B.” will be successful in his eflorw.

I am sure he will find the study of the anufflj
and vegetable life I have mentioned
interesting and instructive.

W. J. LANCASTER.

-If “ Constant Reader,” will carT /..°“!

the following details, I think he cannot ra»
be successful. Cover the bottom of the sq
rium with a layer of silver sand, washed
clean as possible, and not less than ty-Iacne*
depth, and on this an inch of shingle or
pebbles will prevent the fish from disturbing
sand. Vallisneria spiralis is a good plant, & u _
rather dear, and I should recommends vane •
follows, which I have seen growing and now PJ.
ess. Vallisneria spiralis, Alisma natua, )
riophyllum spicatum, Ranunculus aquatou*.
Anacharis Alsinastrum. If these cannotoe p

cured nearer home, Messrs.

Sale, Manchester, will supply them
I should advise “Constant Reader to . ....

of

several plants of Vallisneria, as m^ny ^
failures complained of are to be traced _ .
insufficient supply of plant life. -

should be planted in the sand, and the

pebbles added afterwards. After

IVERSITY OF ILLINOIS
URBANA-CHAMPA1GN

B

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI. APRIL 12, 1884. No. 266.

A LONDON GREENHOUSE.

To spend an hour in a greenhouse in the heart
of the west end of London, and to note with a
keen interest every detail of its successful con¬
struction and management, cannot fail to convey
a great deal of instruction, even more intelligible
perhaps to an old hand like the writer, than to
a novice, and some of the hints so obtained on
the 25th of the present month, transcribed by
kind permission, may be of ose to the readers of
Gardening Illustrated. The greenhouse to
be described, like others seen in London houses
(but more often empty and destitute of flowers
than otherwise), opens from the staircase upon the
flat roof of a room on the ground floor. It may,
perhaps, with more exactness be called a fernery,
though it contains many plants other than Ferns,
and the object of the owner being not to cultivate
a few plants only, but to create a beautiful
artistic effect—a picture, in fact, of living foliage
and flower—it was determined not to grow
them exclusively in pots, but to plant out suit¬
able subjects in permanent raised borders. The
surfaces of these borders being broken and
diversified with stonework, are so arranged as to
form little nooks and dells with level stretches
between, all furnished with varied forms of
plant life, for though it is in the middle of
London, there are plenty of plants to choose
from that will not only exist, but thrive with the
utmost luxuriance. The first thing to be done
by way of preparation for building the green¬
house was to strengthen the joists which were
to support the weighty superstructure, with its
heating apparatus, consisting of a boiler and four
pipes. These provide for the flow and return of
the water, and being placed beneath the orna¬
mental iron gratings of the central pathway, are
scarcely noticed, and appear to do their work
thoroughly well. The structure- itself has a
span*roof, and being glazed with ordinary horti¬
cultural glass, ample provision is made for as
much light and air as surrounding buildings and
smoky chimneys will admit.

A Most Important Point
of construction was next detailed—the prepara¬
tion of the borders which extend on each side of
the pathway the whole length of the house. To
prevent any percolation of damp to the room
below, a lining of sheet lead covering the floor
and reaching up the sides as far as the lights,
was first of all found to be necessary. Upon
this impervious floor the foundation of the
borders was made by inverting some dozens of
common flower-pots of various sizes in different
positions and heights to give the effect of an
uneven surface, and the interstices everywhere
to a considerable depth were then filled in with
an abundance of broken pot-sherds to allow for
free and ample drainage. It is to this simple
device for preventing stagnant moisture that the
owner of the greenhouse attributes in great
measure his success in plant culture. Two tons
of tufa brought from Matlock and tastefully ar¬
ranged form the rock work, and the whole of the
space was then filled in with prepared soil com¬
posed of good peat and loam with coarse sand
to keep it open. The walls, both at the ends
and sides of the structure, wherever such a
course was possible, were wired and filled in
with rough peat, in which many kinds of small
Kerns and other suitable plants are content to
flourish. To complete the house, an abundant
wpply of water was laid on, so that at all times
it is easy, when needful, to syringe freely.
Opportunity is thus given to form a tiny limpid
pool in one of the miniature dells surrounded by
rocks which are clothed with lycopods and
paoefol sedges and creeping plants, and as one
stands gazing at the wild luxuriance of broad-
»eaved Palms and tall feathery Ferns crossing
intertwining with a waving drapery of
cr *fP lD S Fig ’ with climbin S Passion Flowers
»nd dark waxy foliage of Hoya carnosa clinging
to the wall and roof, and an undergrowth of
®wbled leaves of Begonia and delicate Fern
TOodg, the mind is filled with astonishment, and
joe is almost forced to exclaim—Can this be
wndonf In truth, If any exception might be
the growth is a little too rampant, occa-

Digitized by CiOO^lC

sioned by a lack of the judicious use of the
pruning knife.

Plants Most Suitable.

Taking in detail some of the plants which have
been found most successful, the following maybe
specially noted:—Of dwarf Palms a splendid
specimen of Latacia borbonica(sometimes known
as Livistona sinensis) occupies a central position
and stretches its broad fronds across the path¬
way, and its luxuriance is not to be wondered at
when it is mentioned that on removing part of
the border to rectify a defect of drainage it
was found to have sent out masses of roots to
the very doorway. Corypha australis and Chamae-
rops Fortunei have also succeeded well.
Dracaenas of various kinds thrive and flower,
and a remarkably fine plant of Hedychium Gard-
nerianum, from which the flower spikes had not
long been cut, showed by its gnarled and knotty
rhizome a growth of many years. The Passion
Flower (P. princeps), trained at one end of the
house, ia the only species, though several have
been tried, which has succeeded well, but this,
when in bloom, is the admiratiou of all be¬
holders, though it keeps within due limits. But
its neighbour, the beautiful Wax Flower (Hoya
carnosa) is a marvel of healthy growth, stretching
out long arms from one end of the house to the
other, and blooming in its season to great per¬
fection. Such plants as these require the root
room allowed by planting in the free border and
well repay such generous treatment; but it is
necessary in permanent planting to be careful
in the choice of subjects. An Indiarubber tree
thus planted in one corner became so voracious
in its demands on the soil that in spite of its
great beauty as a specimen it had to be removed.
A warning word is also needed about a certain
picturesque weed which is often accidentally
introduced into ferneries and which justifies its
name—Marchantia poly morpha—by the different
forms it assumes, and which in certain stages so
nearly resembles a very dwarf crested species of
Pteris that the gardener is tempted to encourage
its growth, to his great after-sorrow, as it creeps
on and on, choking all the more delicate plants
in its relentless way. Different varieties of
Begonia Rex are admirably adapted for the
structure I have attempted to describe,
and their semi-climbing habit is in general not
sufficiently recognised. A small species threw
a spray of its variegated leaves over a rough
broken stock of a tree Fern in a way at onoe
charming and suggestive, and others, clamber¬
ing up the stone-work and rooting at intervals
in the soft rich soil, sufficiently proved their
scandent nature. Hanging pots and baskets are
used to add to the general effect, and amongst
these, a fine plant of Hoemanthus puniceus
attracted special attention. Many species of
Adiantum and Pteris, Davallia and Polypodium,
made up the undergrowth of Ferns, and a
specially fine plant of the accommodating Cyrto-
mium falcatum, which finds itself at home under
such different conditions of temperature, filled
an appropriate niche. It would be impossible
to enumerate every plant successfully tried in
this London conservatory, but it may be stated
that, amongst failures, were many species of gold
and silver Ferns, which require a drier atmos¬
phere than others of their kind. A plant struc¬
ture such as this cannot be maintained in good
order without the constant, loving care of a
practical gardener, and it should not be
attempted where such daily tending is likely to
become irksome or to be neglected. But for
those who can and like to give time and atten¬
tion to it, no pleasure is greater, no influence
more soothing, than that of the successful culture
of plants, and, perhaps, this is true still more in
London than in the country. A structure such
as the above, with its heating apparatus, muBt
necessarily be an expensive luxury. There is
no reason, however, why

Hardy Plants and Ferns
should not be employed to obtain the same kind
of pictorial effect at much less cost. A good use
of the finer forms of common Ivy alone will give
results as beautiful in their way as will any
tropical climber. Certain species of Palm, such
as the hardy dwarf fan Palms (Chamaorops

humilis and C. Fortunei), and Aloes require no
heat, but only protection from wind, to grow them
to perfection. Hardy Ferns, British and foreign,
have been cultivated under such conditions with
excellent results, and an experienced grower of
these found one grand element of suocess to
consist in covering the ventilators with remov¬
able pieces of coarse woollen knitting of home
manufacture, and so filtering the air which
passed through them, leaving the smuts on the
outside. Homely contrivances of this kind—the
outcome of enthusiasm—lessen the difficulties
while they add to the charm of the enterprise.
Given a well planned and ventilated glass
structure, much could be done—believe it—
without a heating apparatus at all. The actual
warmth of London compared with that of the
country is great, and the proportionate dryness
of atmosphere may be set against fog and smoke.
There are hardy flowering plants and bulbs of
many kinds which might be made available.
Iris, Carnations, and Chrysanthemums are all
well known to be smoke-proof. Clematis is Fa\d,
on the best authority, to have bloomed wilhin
late years in the heart of London. I myself saw
during the past autumn a Passion Flower (P.
coerulea) in full vigour of growth in a dingy
street in the parish of Bloomsbury. If these and
such as these were given the shelter of glass, with
proper air and cnlture, is there any good reason
why they should not thrive in a town as well as
Hedychium or Passiflora princeps ? Be this as
it may, the subject is worth consideration, and
the pioneer in this phase of town gardening
would do good work, and by giving his experience
both as to failures and successes, would doubt¬
less earn the gratitude of many, who would
willingly follow the lead if they knew how to set
about it. K. L. D.

ROSES.

11289.— Planting dwarf Robbs.— “ Be¬
ginner ” must lose no time with his dwarf Roses
or the Manetti, which he says are dying in con¬
sequence of his man not planting them suffi¬
ciently deep to cover the union of the bud with
the stock. Remove them at once, very carefully;
prepare a hole for each 18 inches deep ; in the
bottom plaoe a shovelful of rich decomposed
farmyard manure; over this a little fine soil, and
then plant the bush so that the union will be
just 2 inches below the surface when the soil is
levelled in ; then add more soil and a mulch of
short manure on the top; this will soon revive
the plants. I have several which I treated this
way about six weeks baok, and are doing well.
This mistake is frequently made by professional
gardeners as well as amateurs. It is not that
they were planted above the proper level at first,
but it is owing to the sinking of the soil which
always takes place however firmly you may plant,
and especially after a rainy period.—W m.
Phillips, Hoole % Chester.

- As these are not deep enough in the

ground you can easily put some soil round the
collars of the plants. I question whether in
yonr case the depth of planting is the reason
that the Roses are dying, Perhaps they were
too long out of the ground and got too much
dried up. A few plants would be sure to die if
that was the case.—J. D. E.

11313.— Striking Rose cuttings.— 41 J.
H." asks for instructions as to the best mode of
striking Rose cuttings, and the right time for
doing the same. Much has been written
of late in Gardening on this subject. Many
different dates and methods have been sugges¬
ted, and it is true that plants have been raised
from cuttings put in during each of the months
in the year, but the failures have far exceeded
the successes. Some Roses, such as Charles
Lawson, John Hopper, Madam Plantier do well
if inserted in spring, say at March pruning,
which should take place about the 20th of the
month, but the majority of Roses do best when
put in during the month of November. The
truth is, much depends upon the quality or
strength of the cutting and the man who
operates upon the same. Select a plot on a

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Peruvian Andes, found at great elevations, ri r
is a low-growing plant, densely covered wiUi r
beautiful silky hairs,which give it a very remark- r
able appearance. The flower is large and ii r
either white or purple. I have only seen a plate 1
of this interesting Hepatica, but from that I 1
should judge that one day it may prove to bean
acceptable addition to the list of our alpme
plants. It would seem needless to touch upon

The Culture

of so familiar a plant as the common Hepatica,
were it not certain that it does not every¬
where do well. Yet it is not particular as to
soil, though a hearty deep loam suits its re-
requirements best, but it likes shelter and partial
shade, and above all is impatient of being
meddled with. Who cannot remember the
famous clumps met with from time to time in
snug corners of some farm house or cottage
garden, where they have remained undisturbed
for, may be, a lifetime l And yet it is not very
uncommon to hear Hepaticas spoken of as a*,
subjects for spring beddiDg, which involves a
double move every year. Conditions of shade
and shelter are also very important to the well¬
being of Hepaticas. With hardy subjects guchu'
these—for no amount of cold will hurt them- :
we are apt to think that they will do as well m
one, place as another, and so reserve the best
positions in our borders for more tender plants;^
but, in so doing, we forget how much better the
hardy flowers would suoceed under more favour¬
able circumstances. That this is the cage my
own garden affords a proof, where, being exposed
and bleak, Hepaticas (with the exception of one
solitary clump of double-rose, which is the
hardiest of all and fairly well placed) will not
thrive in spite of the best of soil and biennial
surface dressings; but beneath the shelter of
my neighbour s wall, only a few yards distant,
magnificent clumps excite my envy every spring.

adoption of H. americana as a species, but since
this is ignored by Dr. Asa Gray in his North
American flora, we may safely take it to be a
synonym, a fact to be noted by those who search
the catalogues for new species to add to their
collections. In a wild state the flowers of this
Hepatioa are single, and are found of various
shades of blue, pink, and purple, ranging in
either colour to nearly white. If memory serves
me aright, it was rather rare to meet with a pure
white in the North American woods, where these
brave little plants are eagerlv welcomed by the
settlers as the earliest harbingers of the tardy
spring, appearing often while the remains of
the snow banks linger still in the recesses of the
forest. In English gardens, from early times,
Hepaticas of many hues—rose, pale pink, blue,
purple, violet,, variegated and white, are on

south border of light soil and have plenty of
sand at hand ; open trenches a foot apart, suf-
fioiently deep to hold at least three parts of the
cutting underground; throw in some sand to
the bottom of the trench; stick in the cuttings
until they rest firm on the bottom, and let them
be about 6 inches apart in the rows ; close up
the trench with the soil that comes out of the
next opening and press all down firmly round
the cutting. In preparing them select only ripe
strong wood, and if they can be taken off with
a heel of old wood so much the better; about
Christmas put up a shelter to keep the east
winds from the bed.— Wm. Phillips, Boole,
Che iter.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

HEPATICAS.

Hepatica is a title derived from the Greek,
which, translated, brings us down to the plain
spoken name of Liverwort. In fact, this humble
herb was exalted to the rank of Noble Liver¬
wort, from the supposed sovereign value of its
medicinal properties. But though in our day it
has dropped out of the pharmacopoeia, it has not
dropped out of the affections of all true lovers
of spring flowers, and of late years there has
been a renewed search and inquiry for all the
best garden varieties. Our American cousins,
whose notions in general run in more modern
grooves than do ours, keep to the same idea; but
with more exactness call the Hepatica the
Liver-leaf Anemone, for two very good reasons
—to separate it from the true Hepaticas or Liver¬
worts, to wh : .ch belong the green Lichen-like
March&ntias, so troublesome in damp situations
in our gardens and flower pots ; and also to give
it its place in the family of plants to whioh it
rightly belongs. It has long been a moot point
as to whether Hepaticas should form a genus by
themselves, or whether they are true Anemones.
The discovery, in recent years, of a Kashmirian
Anemone (A. Falconeri) closely related to the
common Hepatica, but with sufficient difference
to characterise it as an Anemone, sets the ques¬
tion at rest, on the authority of Sir J. D. Hooker,
and expunges Hepatica altogether, except as
a specific name. It is possible that this may
be looked upon as a botanical fact of no general
interest, but only last week it was casually com¬
plained of to the writer that Hepaticas in all the
foreign catalogues were called Anemone*, which
is apt to cause disappointment to any purchasers
ignorant of their kinship. Laying aside this
point for the present, there are but two distinct
kinds, which can, from a gardening standpoint,
be called species of Hepatica. These are the
common Hepatica (H. triloba) in all its varieties,
single and double, so familiar in our gardens,
and its fine Hungarian conge&o*, sometimes
called the great or large flowered Hepatica (u
angulosa). Another American species (H. acuti-
loba), with pointed instead of round lobed leaves,
is regarded by botanists as possibly distinct and

This is not to be wondered at when we consider
the conditions under which they naturally giov,
nestling at the roots of tall forest trees, whose
yet leafless branches in the spring time break
the force of the cold winds, but do not hinder the I
sunbeams from waking the sleeping flower bods
into life; while later, the thick overhanging
foliage casts a dense cool shadow on all below.

A deep moist root-hold, then, shelter from the |
burning summer sun, mulching with good rich i
soil every autumn, and after that to be left un¬
disturbed year after year, are the simple cultural
rules which, if followed, will surely lead to suc¬
cess. In gardens with little or no shelter, or
where there is a light burning soil, it is a good
plan to cultivate

Hepaticas in Pots,

and for the decoration of the unheated green¬
house, they are unequalled in spring and even
winter, so soon may they be coaxed by this
method into bloom. In my own garden for
years I have tried in vain to see the flowers of
the great blue Hepatica (H. anguloea), but the
pertinacity of the slugs in eating off the blooms
just as they are about to open, is so troublesome
and annoyiDg, that, with other reasons, it decides
me for the future to give attention mainly to
Hepaticas in pots, in which they may be more
successfully grown under 6ome circumstances
than in the open border. To this end young
plants should be potted in small pots and shifted
on once a year until they are in 7-inch or 8-inch
pots, after which they will remain for a long
time without needing any further disturbance.
They should be annually top dressed, however,
and carefully watered with soot water and
I -Sill* dur * n £ tbe summer. The pots should be
™ as all store pots should be, under a

--L if may be, to keep the roots cool snd
’ - e hen the bloom buds are well set

-rra

■»re and kindness will ^
“oeedy opening of their

-'-This plan answers ex*
the double blue variety,
^nd a little difficulty
th« ani 8 tb ® better for an ad-
well ^s For growing in peta
eiDtr i>ef L he doubl ® bloe

the 8i DR le more 1 . 8ho 1 "7' h “
peeies (H. ‘ h « 1 *S

white and {8 nlo “)- K?

net,andwb? em ““™(“ ih ^
i well establish# 1

Aubretia purpurea.

found, though it is hard to get universal concord
as to the naming of any colour. For example, 1
venture to describe, to my mind more appro¬
priately, as rose coloured, the tint commonly
spoken of as red. The white Hepatica is found
in two varieties, the one with red tipped stamens,
the other with white, a peculiarity often to be
There is also a fine

noticed in white flowers,
mauve variety named H. Barlowi.

Double Hepaticas.

The earliest double variety in cultivation
seems to have been the double blue, of the origin
of which little is known, but it had the credit
in Gerard's time of having been received from
Italy. It is more delicate in constitution than
the double rose, which is apparently the most
robust of any, and which was probably intro-

one bavin? been known at

ltheift tiimally cr °PP in 8 U P*

.. 'ated, and it is a fact,
u * r that the other
:ce white flowers

.. .come a
n old fa* ..

introducti^ ’

All the above are merely variiL

stated on the best authoni
double varieties sometimes proa,
in the autumn, which has probabi.
a belief in its existence,
however, that we may yet have to
double white Hepatica, not as an old fa\
but as a new and very desirable ?
our gardens,
of H. triloba.

The Great Hepatica (H. anqulosa)

is a European species, native to certain parts of nortf^Lf 9
Hungary, and though similar in general appear- moist, and }
ance to the common Hepatica, is readily distin- they may be
guished from it by its five-lobed and indented or a < * “ w

leaves and by the greater size of all its parts, response to such
Its large flowers are invariably of a beautiful proved by the
soft shade of blue, and it is altogether a most gay little flowei
desirable species which will be sore, year by ceedingly well with
year, to find its way into gardens where it is at which most people
present unknown, for in the meantime it can in managing, and whicli 1
scarcely be reckoned a familiar plant. While mixture of peat in L__

Aubretia deltoidea.

is also quoted in catalogues, but, except for those
especially interested in such minute differences,

April 1*2, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

35

rill form a choice collection. In fact, all of
hem take very kindly to such treatment, and
he siogle sorts usually ripen abundance of seed
nder the shelter of glass, which is a great ad-
aotage, as it affords an easy method of increas¬
ing the stock. Sown as soon as ripe, the seed
loes not take so long to germinate as otherwise
t would, but sometimes it will remain a whole
ear in the seed pan without stirring. Many
iew and beautiful shades of colour have been
aised from seed of late years by careful selec-
ion and crossing, and the amateur will do well
o interest himself in this subject. Seedlings
rill probably flower the third year, bmt, with
:areful cultivation, are sometimes strong enough
o give a few blooms the second season.

K. L. D.

Annuals and biennials.— It is now time
o sow many of these, and especially those
ntended to be used in the general bedding
arrangements. The endless varieties of good
dads of Pelargonium have pushed to the rear
nany good old annuals that twenty years ago
lid excellent duty on the parterre, foremost
amongst which may be named Sanvitalia pro-
'umbens, compact and dwarf, with light yellow
[lowers having a black disc; Saponaria calabrica,
similar in habit of growth, but slightly taller;
Brachycome iberidifolia, same habit as the last,
but having bright blue flowers; Portulacas of
several colours, but all of low dense growth, and
alike suitable either for outer lines of beds or for
massing in small beds; Silene pendula com-
pacta, not unlike the Saponaria just named, but,
owing to the habit of the plant being tufty, the
effect produced by the two plant* is very
different; Tagetes signata pumila, bright yellow
—in poor soil it is dwarf and keeps in flower for
months. These are a few only of the many
kinds of annuals that may be relied on for
summer bedding, and which, if used in fair pro¬
portion to other kinds, will tend to obviate the
charge of sameness often made against bedding
arrangements. They should be sown now on a
south aspect in the open garden. If lights can
be placed over them till fairly well out of the
ground, all the better; but after this the more
they are exposed, the more robust will be their
growth. If sown thinly, no transplanting will
be needed till they can be placed in permanent
positions. Asters, Stocks, Zinnias, Phloxes,
Indian Pinks, and Everlastings should also now
be sown in frames; and Wallflowers, Antirr¬
hinums, Sweet Williams, Larkspurs, Ac , in the
open air. To guard against loss through slugs
and birds whilst the plants are in the seedling
state, when possible, all the kinds should have
the protection of frames or handlights ; lacking
such structures, sow the seeds on a plot of ground
by themselves, and as soon as sown sprinkle the
ground thickly with wood ashes and soot, the
best preventive against injury from slugs; and
against injury from birds, net over the entire
plot.

Single Dahlias from seed. — Many

owners of gardens anxious to grow these popular
tlowers appear, from numerous queries ask edfrom
time to time, in doubt as to the possibility of
getting them to a size large enough to flower
during the first season’s growth from seed. I
*'dl, therefore, briefly relate the way I treated
them last season, and by which I had a fine lot
of flowers most useful for late summer and
autumn decoration. The seed was sown in
March in pots of light sandy soil, and placed in
a brisk heat of from 60° to 70°. As soon as the
plants were large enough to handle they were
potted off into 3-inch pots, which they quickly
filled with roots. They were then transferred
*° l ioch pots, and when well rooted in these
Were placed in a cold frame and gradually
mured to the open air, and in May were finally
planted out. Good sized holes were dug out,
some rotten manure was placed at the
bottom, and as soon as planted a stout stake
placed to each, to which the plant was
““dy tied, and a little partly decayed manure
P^ood over the roots. During dry weather a
soaking of water was given, and the
tied to the stake as required. During
, Qne and July growth was rapid, and by the
0e finuing of August they had a nice lot of ex-
blooms and buds, and they continued to
produce a succession until very late in the
*»■». Indeed, very few flowers I have ever
cultivated have produced

crop of flowers. Of course, good established
roots started under glass, and put out in May,
will be the best for earliness of flowering, but it
is quite possible to get a good display of flower
from seedlings the first year. — J. Groom,
Hants.

Violets after blooming.—My plan with
outdoor Violets is as follows : After blooming is
over, in the end of March er the beginning of
April, I take up selected stools, and divide them
into single strong crowns, leaving as much root
attached to each as I can. These are then
planted in a border in which vegetables have
been grown and for which manure has been
plentifully dug in. They are planted in lines
across the border 18 inches apart and 9 inches
asunder in the line. I do not dig the border
over and then plant with a trowel; my plan is
to make an opening at one end, which is bar-
rowed to the other end ; I then dig and turn the
soil forward till 18 inches have been dug, then I
apply the line and cat a deep notch, against
which I place the young plants, planting low in
order that the crown or heart may be on a
level with the top of the border when finished.
In this notch I place any material at hand, sueh
as clearings of the potting shed, old Cucumber
soil, burnt ashes (I burn all weeds), some coal
ashes—in fact, anything that I think will prove
useful for the purpose. This is kept in a wheel¬
barrow at the side of the border and used as the
plants are laid in. I then dig to the proper
width between the lines, and again cut a notch
for the plants and so on till all are planted. I
pot off or put into a nurse bed a few plants, such
as those lined out for lifting to replace any that
may by accident die; but this seldom occurs.
I remove all runners as they appear. I begin
picking flowers in the first week of September
in abundance up till November, when they get
scarce, but they furnish piokings up to March,
when there are again plenty of flowera.—J. L.

Orchis maculata. —I have been interested
in the question raised in one of Mr. Sweet’s
papers on the subject of white sports of Orchis
maculata. I think it may be worth placing on
record that I, when quite a boy, found in the
neighbourhood of Cambridge a specimen of O.
maculata, purely white in colour, without any
purple spots on the flowers or the purplish
tinge usual on the perianth. This is fixed in
my memory, as I dug up the plant and had it
flowering in my garden for several successive
years by the side of the ordinary type. I may
add that the purple spots on the leaves were
entirely absent in the plant.—L. C.

qitu

^ucB ^aj ?bjUj^ny thi

POLYANTHUSE8 NOT FLOWERING.

11228.—“ An Old Subscriber ” is in the way of
a useful practical lesson in gardening. Let him
compare the soil and circumstances of the cottage
gardens with his own. The cottage gardens may
have been cultivated for centuries. I know
several villages near London where the houses
are from 200 to 400 years old. His own garden
is most probably new, taken in from plough land
or from uncultivated pasture, and he is indeed
lucky if the valuable top spit of vegetable soil
has not been removed, leaving him nothing but
raw uncultivated loam or clay. Still he need
not despair. With a ^ew garden the following
blunders are usually made The garden is laid
out in permanent form before the ground is got
into a proper state for planting. The beds and
borders are all raised above the general level,
and these raw patches are filled with a mixture
of shrubs and plants requiring many varieties of
soil and treatment. The gardens of villas have
of late been laid out in that fashion by the
builders to tempt occupiers by an apparent
saving of expense. Some of the shrubs and
plants die at once, the remainder may survive
the first winter, but by the third year usually all
the original stock have departed this life. If a
good garden is desired, no permanent planting
should be made until the soil is in a good, easily
workable condition, and a good test of that is,
it can be packed round the roots of newly-
planted things with the hand when in a damp
but not wet state without clinging together
after the fashion of clay. There should be no
lumps or clods, all should be easily crushed in
the hand. The way to get a heavy raw soil into
that condition is to trench it, that is, dig it to
twice the depth the spade will go, cutting in
thin slices of about 3 inches thick and throwing

it up in rough ridges. If sand, road scrapings
or coal ashes can be thrown on it between each
set of spadefuls it will save a deal of labour and
trouble. During frost or great drought the earth
should be turned over to expose fresh surfaces.
When a dry thaw occurs or a shower after
drought, the lumps will be found to crumble
like ashes. They should then be intimately
mixed with sand, wood ashes, sharrings from a
smother, burnt earth, rotted turf, old manure;
all are good. The object is to keep the adhesive
soil once pulverised from running together again
into its original state. When 2 feet of that well
pulverised stuff has been provided, well turn
over a third spadeful in depth of the raw soil,
and put in trenches full of stones if the soil is
damp and undrained. The pulverised soil may
now be well manured, made into beds, and
planted. In very heavy soil it is best to make
special beds for plants which require very light
soil, but the above treatment will convert a stiff
clay into a good loam, which will grow a very
large selection of beantiful plants. Road
parings, that is the cuttings of the natural turf
from the roadsides, can always be had in country
districts. These rotted to loam and mixed with
old hotbed manure make capital beds. Wall¬
flowers like a soil containing old mortar or chalk.
Primroses and Polyanthuses like plenty of leaf-
mould. One thing amateurs should beware of.
that is, continually chopping and tidying up
beds. So long as plants are growing the ground
amongst them should not be touched, except to
hand-weed, even the hoe and rake will injure
surface roots. All beds in the dressed parts of
the garden should be covered in summer by
creeping and carpeting plants so that no bare
earth is visible anywhere. In small gardens the
wails and fences may be covered with evergreens,
but there should be no clumps of evergreen
shrubs ; all shrubs and trees used should be leaf¬
less in winter. In districts of villas, evergreens
are not necessary for shelter, and they seem to
prevent the health-giviDg breezes getting at the
soil in winter, for few flowering plants will grow
well near them, but most become weak and
spindly, and refuse to produce good flowers.

J. D.

NOTES ON P1NTSTEMONS.

T^pAN the Pentstemon, thanks to the hybridist,
tew plants have of late years made more rapid
strides in the way of improvement. The indi¬
vidual flowers are very much larger and opener
than formerly. Many of them, too, are placed
stiff and erect on long dense spikes. Pentste-
mons, moreover, are free, continuous flowerers,
numerous beautiful spikes of bloom following
their predecessors in rapid succession. They are
very easily grown, and will do well in any good
garden soil—the richer the better. They are
not liable to insect pests or disease, and where
a good selection of varieties is grown, coupled
with even average cultivation, they are strikingly
effective even when looked at from a distance.
Our mole of cultivation is very simple; in fact,
very much the same as that for a crop of Cauli¬
flowers. The ground is trenched two spits deep
in autumn. If poor, a good layer of manure is
spread on it and trenched in. In that state it
is left until planting time, which usually takes
place about the latter half of March. A good
layer of well decomposed manure is then wheeled
on and carefully dug in. Young, soft, well-
rooted plants are then selected and planted
about 15inches apart; care is taken to thoroughly
water in very dry weather, as if this is not
attended to their tendency is to run prematurely
to flower before they have gathered sufficient
constitution and strength to carry good spikes.
The only attention they now require is to stake
and tie them as they increase in growth, and of
course keep the ground clear of weeds, &c.
Cuttings taken off any time during August or
September, and inserted from 2 inches to 3 inches
apart in light, sandy soil in a cold frame, will
strike freely. They should be about 4 inches in
length, and if taken off with a heel will strike all
the better. After being inserted give them a
good soaking of water, put on the lights, and
shade from strong sunsHiine for a few weeks
until they show signs of growing, when air should
be freely given them. T-hey may remain there
until planting-out time. Plenty of air should
be admitted during the winter whenever the
weather is sufficiently open to permit of it. The
following are selected as being very ohoice from
ollectfen of Dfcrly 200 varieties, vfz, Henry

^BANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

56

Cannell, Andrew Sinclair, Mrs. A. Smith, Sir
William Forbes, Helen Wood, Climax, Decision,
Hebe, Mrs McKelvie, James Begg, James Eddie,
Walter Sootfc, James Leadbetter, Lady Sinclair,
John Fairlie, Czlgane, Inimitable, Corsair,
William Milligan, James Oowans, Mrs. Melville,
William Saddler, Robert Osborn, Miss Arnot,
and Mrs. J. Allan. J F.

Spring struck Geraniums.— Where
the sapply of Geraniums runs short, this is a good
time to propagate them, as they root readily in
a genial temperature of about 50°. I find small
pots as convenient as anything for striking them
in, and by placing three or four cuttings round
the edge of a 3-inch pot, a good quantity may be
struck off in but little space, the best position
being a light shelf near the glass. Give one
good watering to settle the soil around them,
and after that, only enough to keep the cuttings
from withering up until they are rooted, when
more moisture may be given, and they can be
placed in any light, airy position. If potted off
singly, they will make nice plants either for
planting in the flower garden, or for growing on
as pot-plantsfor late summer, or more especially
winter flowering. For this purpose, keep the
plants dwarf by pinching out the centres so as
to make them branch close down to the pots,
and keep all blooms pinched off as they appear.
Shift into larger pots as they require it until
June, when they should be put into their flower¬
ing pots, using moderately stiff soil, and potting
firmly, as by that means a short-jointed growth
will be the result, and they will produce more
flowers, and of finer quality, than if loose light
soil is used, for then they rush into leaf-growth
too much. Grow them in an open sunny posi¬
tion, so as to get the growth well ripened, and
leave off stopping and pinching of flowers about
a month before they are required for use. They
will then send up quite a thicket of flower spikes,
and in the dull dark days of early winter few
flowers are more effective than a well grown
Geranium.— James Gboom, Qotport.

11229.— Climbers for Bunless walls —
We have here K err ia japonica, common Jasmine,
Cydonia japonica, and common China Roses,
growing and flowering well on a north wall,
which is shaded also from the morning sun by a
large Walnut tree. In my last garden there were
two small plants of the common Ivy (Hedera
Helix) planted to cover a fence in a situation
completely shaded by the house after 9 am. in
summer. They were planted some years, and
had made no progress A drain was run close to
the roots of them, and the soil (a stiff, clayey
loam) was well dug and lightened with sand and
coal ashes. The result was that the Ivy grew
away vigorously, covering the fence in two years.
It is worse than useless to lay out a garden in
permanent form on a clay soil until the soil is
well pulverised and in good working order. I
should never do any permanent plantirg but
Roses on a clay soil, until it would grow Carrots,
Parsnips, and floury Potatoes which would take
prizes. Clay is the best staple of any soil, but it
must be diluted with sand and other material,
or the roots of plants cannot appropriate the
rich store of nutriment it contains.—J. D.

11264 — Pansies for spring bedding.—
To be past their best by the last week in May,
Pansies should be propagated in June of the
previous year, and planted out where they are to
doom by the middle of September. They will
then make strong plants before winter and come
into bloom early. But why lift the Pansies ?
Why not rather allow them to remain as aground-
wort for a feathery foliage plant, which would
shade them from the strong summer sun, and
make them bloom almost continuously ?
“A. R.’s ” trouble is wholly owing to adherence
to bedding out. When hot weather comes
Pansies grow fast, throw out long straggling
shoots which produce small flowers, and assume
a ragged appearance. When that takes place,
shake half an inch or so of silver sand with a
little leaf-mould in it round the crown of the
plant, spread out the long shoots all round to
shade the ground, and leave the crown bare. A
number of fresh young shoots will spring from
the crown and root into the sand, or these shoots
can be taken off as soon as large enough, and
struck in pots of sand and leaf-mould under a
bell-glass. These will make strong plants for
September planting. Where wapted for bedding,
D i gitized by ^ Q ()Q \ £

the best plan would be to have a good stock in
a bed of hardy plants, or in a reserve bed. How¬
ever early the plants are got in, in a backward
spring, many varieties will be in full bloom when
the bedding plants must be put out. Many
seedling dark self and belted Pansies come into
bloom very early, blooming sparingly throughout
a mild winter like the present. Some are coming
into full bloom now ; these might be separated
as a winter-flowering section. Pansies are most
satisfactory when grown in light soil dressed
with leaf-mould, or with old powdery manure
from a Mushroom bed. In such soil they make
neat, compact plants, covered with bloom, and
held on well in hot weather if watered ufter
dusk.—J. D.

11240.— Plants for sunless border —

Bedding plants are not suitable for sunlet-s situa¬
tions. The beat thing to do with a border under
a north wall is to use it for Pansies, Primroses,
Polyanthuses, SoilUs, Daffodils, Wood Anemones,
Foxgloves, double Spiraeas, and similar shade-
loving plants. Cover the wall itself with Ivy if
an evergreen is desired, or with common Jasmine,
Kerria japonica, and common China Roses. It
is a mistake to have a garden run close to the
foot of a north wall. Where such a wall exists
at the foot of a garden, it should be hidden by
a leafy screen at some little distance from ir s
and the intervening space used for heaps of
manure and compost, and unavoidable litter.
Such a shaded space is invaluable for striking
cuttings, prickiDg off seedlings, and similar
operations. Where a house faces north, all
bedding arrangements should be avoided, 60 that
the shaded space near the house may join on
naturally to the rest of the garden. I have seen
money thrown away annually on constant
failure through persistent attempts to decorate
a shaded garden with bedding plants. A paved
court is really the most suitable treatment for a
small plot on the north side of a terrace, house
or small villa. Anything else is vanity and
vexation of spirit.—J. D.

11256.— Dielytra speotabllis— Both the
articles 44 An Old Lady ” has read on this plant
are correct. It is perfectly hardy if properly
placed. I noticed some fine clumps of it
flowering profusely after the very severe winters
of 1879-80 and 1880-81. They were in a very
exposed situation, and the ground they were in
was frozen 9 inches deep for many weeks. So
long as the plant keeps dormant it is safe, but
one or two sharp frosts after it has begun to
grow are very likely to be fatal to it. The secret
of growing it well in the open air is to keep it
dormant as late in the spring a 1 - possible. Under
a wall facing east, or, better still, in jast such a
position on the north side of a wall or fence that
the sun will not touch it until the middle of
April, it will prove perfectly hardy. If planted
in a sunny, sheltered place the young growth
must be protected from late frosts.—J. D.

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK.
Glasshouses.

Stephanotis and Gardenias.— The Gar¬
denia requires plenty of sun, as however much
heat it receives the flowers do not make much
progress until the sun gets some power. Use
every means to keep down scale and mealy bug
which will now increase apace. If the growth
of the Stephanotis was well ripened last autumn,
the plants will generally show flower freely on
the young shoots as soon as formed. Do not
use too much atmospheric moisture, as where
subjected to an over-humid atmosphere, the
bloom is usually proportionately deficient.

Perpetual flowering Carnations.—
Where there is a well-managed stock of these,
the principal lot should now be fast pushing up
their flower-stems, for, although from their per¬
petual blooming habit with a sufficient number
of plants their flowers may be had all the year
round, still they come much finer and in greater
abundance during the spring and summer. The
plants will be much benefited by the application
of manure water once a week. This will not
only assist the earliest flowers, but also the suc-
cessional bloom. A little soot added to the
manure water will be found an advantage, as
besides its manorial properties, it tends to banish
worms, and there is no insect that appears to
like depositing its eggs on plants that have the
odour of soot about them.

[April 12 , 1884

Tuberous Begonias.— If not already start*!
the old bulbs of these should at once be set a!
work, repotting them in good, fresh soil. n6
giving root-room proportionate to the siwoltb
bulb.-, for though they may be considerably
assisted by liquid stimulants, yet with frte-
growing subjects like these Begonias, that fore
large heads in little time, a good amount !
space is requisite for the roots ; if too much
confined the amount of growth and flottn
forthcoming will be limited.

Tender annuals— Even in gardens whtn
plants of a permanent character are made tbi
principal feature some of the handsomea
annuals suitable for pot culture may be grow
with advantage. Such things as Balaams, Globe
Amarantus, Rhodanthe Manglesi, Celosiapjn
midalis, and the old-fashioned Cockscomb, vbtt
well managed, are amongst the most efectin
plants that can be grown for summer decoratio:
and when in flower they can be placed about k
conservatories and similar structures where it
would not be expedient to set plants of mou
value. The feathery plumes of the Celosia n*
unequalled as regards effect when grouped
plants of more bushy habit. The prirrifii
matter to be kept in view in the cultiv&tioc c!
these things is to give them sufficient room &r
keep them close to the glass from the time tbs
seed germinates until they are in bloom. It b
not advisable to place the seeds in too mace
heat; an intermediate temperature, such as that
obtainable from a moderate hotbed composed of
leaves and manure in about equal quantity,
answers best. Pits or frames now occupied witb
bedding plants will in most places be at liberty
in a short time, and will be available for tbea
in their subsequent stages.

Ferns. —Many who have attempted the cul¬
tivation of the elegant filmy Ferns have failed
through keeping them too warm. No heat u
required except simply to keep out frost. They
require to be confined within a glazed case, fcr
though they will live exposed to the atmospte:?
of an ordinary cool fernery, yet they do not get
on so well as if less air was given them. Any
that need more root-room should be repotted,
being careful not to disturb the roots more than
is unavoidable, as now when growth u cm-
mencing any mutilation of them will interfer;
with the development of the young frond* 1
Keep the soil well supplied with water, as lb
least approach to dryness is most injuries a
all times, but much more so during the early
stages of growth than at any other time, k
giving water be careful not to wet the plant*
overhead, as if this is not avoided they sdwarv
have a brown shabby appearance. Where large
stands or baskets are required to be filled *i't
flowers, the climbing Fern (Lygodium scantier
should be grown in sufficient quantity to adnui
of its being used freely, as its elegaDt loDg sprays
have a beautiful effect when entwined among;!
flowers and other green foliage.

Hanging baskets.— The present is a good
time to fill hanging baskets in conservators
with flowering plants, Ferns, and drooping n>b*
jects. Many Fuchsias, especially those of the
Mrs. Marshall class, make admirable basket
plants; many Begonias, both foliage and flower¬
ing kinds, are also well adapted as centre sab
jects, while nothing can surpass the appearance
of a good Fern, such as Asplenium or Pt«j s
even many of the common hardy Ferns, Poly
stichum aculeatum for instance, or the delicate
Lady Fern, have a most elegant appearance
Round the sides plant little rooted bits of
Tradescantia, Campanula, the drooping Saxifrage
(Mother of Thousands), Lobelias, Lithosperncn
«fcc.; and fill up the interstices with Selagnelli
Lycopodium, or the like, Of course, everyone
knows that the basket should be well lined writ
Moss, then filled with light rich soil pressed to
rather firmly, and when the plants are all potto,
water well, and keep in a warm, close, aw
shaded house till all are established aw
growing.

Flower Garden.

General work.— This, to a large extent,*^ 1
consists in the preparation of plants for sunnw r
arrangements. We are at present busy nakirg
hotbeds, consisting of stable litter aud la ffD
mowings, for Alterantheras; putting in cutting' 1
of Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegate
in boxes, which are placed over the pipes m
vineries to strike; pricking off seed ling Tagete-
Pyrethrums, Zfnnias, Asters, and Stocks,

JRBANA-CHAMPAIGN

April 12 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

57

tting off Coleases, lresines, Heliotropes, and preference to drawing the hand down the been catting lor use all winter, and just now we
tanias, and planting out Lobelias and Ver- bunches, and the atmosphere of the house should have a very good supply. I like Hicks’Hardy
nas in turf pits, and Calceolarias and Violas be dry and warm when the operation is per- the best so far as colour goes. Tomatoes grow
the open air. Dahlias and sub-tropical plants formed. Examine the foliage in out-of-the-way apace just now. Keep the side-shoots thin, sued
]q ire the extra space thus gained, and some corners in the early house, and if a suspicious- supply them with water abundantly, but nothing
these need larger pots, our rale being never looking leaf is found, either sponge at once with more at present. When a good crop is well set,
let them get root-bound, as that cripples the weak Tobacco or soap water or apply the usual treat them to a little manure water, but not too
owth of the plants for the whole season The remedy to the pipes for the destruction of spider, much—one quart of manure water to three gal-
t«ide operations now are principally mowing At the same time look well to inside borders, and Ions of clean soft water. French Beaus should
d sweeping; preparing beds and borders for i if found dry, a condition under which spider now be sown in small pots, and planted out
anting; pruning and tying up, or nailing in j makes rapid strides, water freely with guano under south wall* or in warm corners for an
imbers; sowing hardy annuals, and making i water and mulch with short Btable manure which early supply.—R. G.
ccvasional sowings of Sweet Peas, Mignonette, has been well worked as for a Mushroom bed. _____________

id Virginian Stocks; weeding, and in mossy Damp this frequently to keep the atmosphere

aces, salting walks and roads. charged with moisture, maintain a low night PARIS DAISIES

.Spring Flowers.— Whilst Wallflowers, Prim- temperature by giving front air, and, most im- (marguerites).

>§es, Hyacinths, Tulips, and other spring flowers portant to all, see that the Vines are not carry- 0UR gardens, both outdoor and indoor, have
e yet in flower, notes should be made of the ing more fruit than they are likely to swell up gained greatly as regards beauty by the intro-
ost popular kinds in order that their propaga- and finish. duction of the shrubby species of Chrysanthe-

on may be undertaken at the proper season, ' Vegetables. mums or Marguerites, as they are now more

id the approved varieties of bulb j ordered early, j Our early sowing of Celery now pricked out in generally called. The popularity acquired by
'alldowers. Primroses, and Polyanthuses may be : boxes for second or for main crop is well above these plants a few years ago has remained
»wn now, and good varieties of the two last ' the ground ; for the last crop of all we sow in unabated ; until now there is scarcely a garden
lould be increased by division as soon as they
ive done flowering. New plots of Violets
toald be made as soon as runners can be had ;
cm these early plantings good flowers are fre-
lently produced in

the middle of this month; this proves mo9t use- of any pretensions which does not contain them,
ful for soups in early spring. Early Broccoli. All the shrubby kinds are certainly valuable
such as Veitch’s Autumn Giant, good old garden plants. They are of easy culture, con-
Walcheren, and White Cape should, if not already tinuous and abundant flowerers, and, moreover,

particularly well

rnntity throughout
ie autumn and win-
r. The Czar and
ictoria Regina are the
at winter bloomers,
mply because they
e the hardiest. In
der the better to in-
ire a long succession
flowers in spring
ifferent aspects
lould be chosen. We
ant a few at the foot
: the fruit tree walls
i every aspect; from
le sooth we gathered
jantitiesof blooms in
inuary, and from the
xth and east aspects
ley have not yet done
)w«ring. Lily of the
alley is amenable to
ie same mode of cul-
lre, and the season
f flowering is also
roportionately ex-
mded. Beds of this
ily should now be
)pdressed, and new
eds made by dividing
oe roots that have
een forced. Plant
‘Ogle crowns in lines
inches apart and
inches asunder in

adapted for furnishing
quantities of cut
bloom. Of the several
kinds now cultivated
none seems to be so
popular as the original
C. frutescens. Its finely
cut foliage, of a bluish
grey tint, harmonises
charmingly with the
white Daisy-like
flowers, which are
pretty and not too
large. It is not such
a vigorous grower as
some of the others,
but it flowers more
profusely, particularly
when planted out iu
the open border during
summer. The accom¬
panying illustration,
sent to us last sum¬
mer, gives a good
idea of the beauty of
a finely developed spe¬
cimen planted out-
of-doors; its myriads
of starry flowers when
so numerous have in
sunshine quite a dazz¬
ling effect. The plant
is tolerably hardy,
though only in very
favoured localities

ne; press them firmly
ito the soil, and then
lulch with cow ma¬
ture, which should

can it be allowed to

Pari* Daisy (Marguerite), Chrysanthemum frutescens, in open border. remain out - of - doors

unprotected. In many
gardens this and

emain on the whole of the summer; next
eason some good flowers may be expected,
nd the following one they will be as fiae as
bose from imported crowns.

Fruit.

Vines.— By this time the Vines in the latest
ioa*ea will be fit for stopping if the operation
las not already been performed. Syringe well
wice a day until the bunches become prominent,
nconrage a short-jointed, sturdy growth by ven-
flatiog freely through the early part of the day,
lose with brisk sun heat to 6ave firing, and
illoar the temperature to range about 60° at
If the inside borders have not been

| done, be sown at once—under glass if possible.

| To sow seeds outside, is not a good system ; the
i young seedlings do not grow and flourish in the
same manner as if raised under glass, and
weakly, crippled plants are not the thing if
success is a consideration. Defer sowing the
later kinds until the 1st of May. Scarlet
Runners I grow in miniature trenches, the same
as Peas; the trenches should be taken out at
once, well manured, and dug deeply, breaking
the soil well as the work proceeds. We then
put an inch deep of burnt refuse on the top of
i the broken soil, and wait until the second week
I in May; then with a cultivator we mix the ashes
and the soil in the trenches, draw a shallow drill

*4tered since the Vines broke, now will be a down the middle, and in this plant the Beans in
to>d time to give them a thorough watering— single rows, earthing them up when large
ifiuoM, with pure water; if weak, with liquid enough,until the ground is level before staking.
Qioare or guano water—which will carry them This method of pi anting. Scarlet Runners makes
on until after the fruit is set, when they may be them to a great extent independent of dry, hot
watered and mulched with short manure, weather.

‘ a 7 regular attention to daily details in succes- Peas that are sufficiently grown should be
bon houses, and on no account let the thinning staked after slightly earthing them up ; and
r * the berries get behind, otherwise a tedious here I must remark that Peas are very much
operation of this kind, which requires great benefited by staking, it keeps that worst of all
Htfence, is sure to be hurried over and imper- enemies—the sur a e wind—at bay. I consider
performed. Fertilise Muscats, now in wind far more dangerous than frost for all
alio Black Morocco and other shy -setting outside Peas. We are just finishing planting
^Mring Hamburgh pollen if it can be ob- Potatoes, for which the land is in fine con¬
fined or has been preserved in a dry, warm i dition. II.ck9’ and Black-seeded Brown Cos
£***• A camel-hair brush should be used ill I Lattices, both good winter varieties, we have
Digitized by VjO')Hle

other Marguerites are used with admirable
effeot in association with the finer kinds of
sub-tropical plants. One of the prettiest bed¬
ding effects we have seen was an intermix¬
ture of C. frutescens and the dark purple¬
leaved variety of the Castor-oil plant (Ricinus)
in Battersea Park last year. Autumn-struck
plants keep on growing during the win¬
ter, and at bedding time are of excellent size
for planting out Large, old plants, too, kept
in the greenhouse serve the double purpose of
affording a supply of cut bloom and for bedding
out in summer. C. frutescens, as well as the
other kinds, are grown very extensively by the
Paris market gardeners, and hence have acquired
the name of Paris Daisies. Some of the London
market gardeners also now grow them largely,
particularly for cut bloom daring winter and
spring. Of the larger-flowered kinds those
known as C. Halleri, with large white flowers,
and Etoile d'Or, with large, pale, yellow flowers,
seem to be the most popular.

I Lawn weeds.— I am glad to be able to
I corroborate most fully an article from “ Berk-
> shire,” in a recent issue of Gardening, on the
i use of common salt for effeotually destroying
| Plantains, Daisies, and other weeds without in¬
jury to, but actually manuring, the Grass. Of
j ail the various substances prop^pe<^p| jpu*^

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

58

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[April 12 , 1884 .

pose, I have found none to succeed except the
•* Lawn Sand ” sold for the same object, bat
which is far too expensive for use on a large
scale. Acids produce an apparent effect, but
reach no farther than the part they touch, de¬
stroying Grass, and the weeds reappearing after
a short time. Paraffin will pervade and destroy
any plant, but equally the Grass. So after
many years’ experience I have returned to com¬
mon salt, which I used full forty years ago, and
have found by later trials to be the most effec¬
tual, the cheapest, and easiest of application.
My large lawn at Bayfordbury is at this time a
most deplorable spectacle of concurrent brown
patches, which horrify my friends, but which I
am confident will be green again before June,
and the weeds permanently destroyed. March
and October are the best months to apply the
salt; a few bushels of salt and an old woman
are all that is required.— W. R. Baker.

FRUIT.

Protecting fruit trees when In bloom.

_It is advisable in most parts of Scotland to

use some material to protect the blossom of such
fruits as the Apricot, Peach, and Plum. No
doubt good crops of fruit have been obtained
without any protection whatever, but the num¬
ber of cases where spring frosts have destroyed
all prospects of a crop justify the use of some¬
thing however simple, whereby these crops may
be saved. Various materials are now to be had,
all of which answer their purpose quite well,
and in course of time pay handsomely for the
first outlay. The cost at first is very often the
objection raised, and I will, therefore, endeavour
to mention briefly a method which can be
adopted by most people, and which costs almost
nothing. Small boughs of Evergreens answer
the purpose as well as more costly materials,
and are readily obtained whenever the necessity
for covering occurs. They can be fixed in the
easiest way, which can be devised by those who
use them, as there is no hard-and-fast method
to be followed, each doing it as best suits his
circumstances. They may be either placed so
as to overhang the trees, or tied along the
branches in a manner that will give shelter to
the flowers. This plan, trifling as it may seem,
Is well worth the consideration of those who
have a few trees to protect, as it is by attending
to small items like this that good results are
obtained.— Caledonian.

11262 .— Plume as espaliers.—' “ S. F. M
asks if a Damson Plum can be successfully
grown as an espalier, and what is the best kind
of Damson tree to plant. The Crittenden or
Cluster Damson is much more prolific than any
other kind- I believe this variety is much grown
in Kent, which is the fruit garden of England.
It may be grown as an espalier, but it would be
an unnatural and awkward way of training this
shrubby tree which grows very like a Thorn.
As standards planted in the hedgerows at a dis¬
tance of 10 feet apart, is the usual way of plant¬
ing ; I have seen thousands growing in this way
in a village near here. They shelter the garden
quarters, and are a source of much profit.—W.
Phillips, Jloole , Cluster .

INDOOR PLANTS.

HOW I GROW TUBEROSES.
Although comparatively of easy culture, few
amateurs seem acquainted with the cultivation
of the Tuberose, at least with any definite
method of ensuring success. It is not an
unusual thing for the buyer of this favourite
flower root to ask the best method of growing
the same. To assist and promote the cultivation
of the Tuberose I submit the few following notes.
Several varieties are in the market; the doable
forms are decidedly the best in every way. Of
these, the South African and American Pearl
have the first and greatest claim upon our
attention. They are one and the same bulb, but,
grown in different continents, there is no
difference required in their cultivation; the
flowers are the same, though on account of the
African Tuberese ripening earlier than the
American, it is better adapted for early work.
The African arrives about September or October
the American about January or February. We
commence with the African. When the bulbs
arrive to hand,“they should
Digitized by vjjO

.mean, wnentne bulb

the old root removed from the base of the bulb
(not with a knife); also the remainder of the
dead foliage from the crown. They should then
be potted in 3-inch pots in rich loam, with a
liberal addition of manure and silver sand, and
placed in the plant stove. Water diacriminately;
the bulb will soon show signs of activity. When
it has made 3 inches or 4 inches of growth, the
roots will have reached the sides of t.he pot, and
should then receive a shift into a size larger pot,
or, if preferable, three may be placed together in
a 5-inch or 6-inch pot. After remaining in the
stove till thoroughly established, they should be
removed to an intermediate house or warm
greenhouse, where they will receive more air and
light, consequently gain more strength, throw
finer bloom, and ensure greater success, even if
the time of blooming be protracted. With this
treatment fine blooms may be cut in March and
April. If over-forced, the blooms will be weak
and poor, and sometimes whole spikes will die
off. The American Pearl variety, coming to
hand later, is consequently to the amateur and
the general cultivator the most useful. The
same treatment as advised for the African should
be adopted for the American, and under ordinary
circumstances will bloom in May and June. One
advantage may be claimed for the Pearl that
cannot be for the African; it may be grown in a
greenhouse without the aid of artificial heat.
With the African Tuberose this is a sine qua non ,
unless it is held over till the spring, when the
bulb must be greatly impaired by too long a
period of inaction. Compared then with the Pearl,
no advantage is gained, so that in the end the
African must be on the losing side. Now as to
their cultivation under glass without heat. Pot
in small 3-inch pots, water very seldom ; in fact,
they should be kept almost dry till they begin
their growth, then increase the watering, pot on,
See., as recommended before. Many amateurs
have but little glass at their command, con¬
sequently are not able to apply heat, as the one
structure has to answer the purpose of green¬
house, pit, Ac. If the grower should happen to
have a small hotbed (as many have for the
raising of annuals, Ac.), I may mention it would
be a great help in starting the Tuberose, and
forwarding'the blooming season, to place it in
the bed for a week or two till they are established
in their flowering pots. They may then be
removed to the greenhouse for flowering. At
intervals in the course of their growth, and at
the time of flowering, give liberal applications
of manure water. I have cut Tuberoses from
May to December, spikes producing twenty and
twenty-five blooms, the individual bloom perfect
in Bhape and more like Gardenias in size than
Tuberoses. Adhering to the foregoing simple
methods, success must inevitably crown the
efforts of the grower. Alfred A. Walters.

11293.— Lilies not starting.— “ Constant
Reader ” is rather impatient for his bulbs of L.
auratum to make their appearance through the
soil. They would start sooner if placed in a cool
greenhouse where the sun can get at the pots,
but no doubt they will come up before long if
left in their present situation, as the bulbs are
sound. I have some not yet through the soil, and
others varying in height from 1 inch to 2 feet.
Care must be taken to only water them suf¬
ficiently to keep the soil moist, or probably the
bulbs will rot. I am in favour of not using
larger pots than are really required for Liliums,
but “ Constant Reader ” has rather underpotted
the Lilies in questien. I should recommend
them being taken out of the 7-inch pots as soon
as the stems get 8 inches or 9 inches high, and
placed in the centre of well-drained 9-inch pots,
without disturbing the ball of soil in the least.
Fill up with good, light, rich compost. If left
in the 7-inch pots, they will most probably lose
a lot of the foliage, and, if not very well attended
to, the blooms would suffer also, and the bulbs
be weakened for another year.—P. Rainford,
Wigan.

-The bulbs are all right. The imported

bulbs do not start so quickly as those that have
been grown in pots for one year. They should
be starting now, and you will see some of them
doing so before this answer appears.—J. D. E.

11301.— Culture of Orchids —When you
write of any average temperature of 55° to 70°

_ I take it you mean 55° by night and 70° by day.

;» Probably they would succeed in a house heated

by an oil lamp; but it is not a very satisfy
way to heat the house. The temperature &ii*i :
to above will do well in which to grow Cattkp
Dendrobiums, and Cymtidiums some Otad
glossums, such as O. pulchellum, citrot&i
grande, hastilabiums, vexi Barium, Phalscopg
Ac. Pot them in clean pots half filled with p<
sherds. The best potting material is ter; i
fibrous peat, broken charcoal and potitea
with Sphagnum; Moss in equal proponis
The be9t time to pot is when the plants start |
grow. Most Orchids have a season of roi
forming, and if the peat-potting materai i
used just before the roots start they have
thing to run into.—J. D. E.

11287 .- Climber for email fernery!
Lover of Ferns " would like to grow a creed 1
in her miniature fernery to be effective winter id
summer. This is rather a difficult matter d
so small a space at command as 4 feet 0 inch
by 3 feet 6 inches, and no fire beat. Tbs wai
if only 2 inches off the glass, are much too cat
Fix them 6 inches or 9 inches off, and try
plant of Lapageria alba. The mixture of soli ,
your border should suit this plant if a Ifit i
thoroughly decomposed stable manure be adA
to it, and see that the drainage is perfectly fn
— William Phillips, Hoole , Chester.

11295.— Camellias falliDg.— The CistH
plant dislikes beat when the flower-bads c ;
opening. Your house has been kept too wsi
The plants do not require any artificial beat i
winter unless the weather is frosty, and tbs
only sufficient to keep the frost out Xow tM
you have repotted them, nothing more cm I
done than to give them, if you can, a moist *aa
atmosphere until the flower-buds are set I
you cannot do this they will make their vt*
more slowly, but quite satisfactorily in ®
greenhouse.—J. D. E.

11291. — The Australian Blrd’s-na
Fern.—This Fern frequently throws up imps
feet fronds as yours seems to have done, but it
not caused by insects eating them. Grow it!
about equal parts of turfy loam and peat, H
in a temperate house. I fancy the frond* c
injured by damp in an over-heated atmospA
during the earliest stages of their growth. Ii j
a robust growing Fern, and a large special
requires a very large pot. No more water
required for this than for any other descriptl
of Fern.—J. D. E.

11312.—PhCBnooomas.—This plant ougk

not to be syringed, nor does it require w] (
manure water. It is a vigorous growing
and requires a good deal of pot-room. If J® ,
plant requires repotting it should be done*
once. The flowers will be considerably ad vac®
by this time, but they will not be injured q
the repotting, if it is done carefully.—J. D ^
11306.—Cyclamens.—Placing these into i
brisk heat would most likely cause the
become yellow. The plants will do in a
rately warm house. They do best in an ordinal
greenhouse temperature. You will do
good with yours this year. If you can P«J,
them in a cooler house near the glass root u*7,
will come round.—J. D. E.

Notes on heating a greenhouse--^

Ihavereceivedso many benefits fromGABDEMS

I think it is only my duty to let you know Mr 1
thing that your readers might find
return. I have rather a large greenhouse,
by 20 feet, in which, owing to differences ■

the landlord, I have no permanent heating app

ratus. My stock is almost entirely compo^
Geraniums and Fuchsias, and I was d etfrm ,
not to lose them in the winter. I therefore t
inside the conservatory at one corner a
greenhouse, 9 feet by 7 feet, glass roof, an
just as if it had been built at the angle otw
walls outside, and tried heating it wjn » ■
lamp of a much vaunted kind costing 2os ;
thing was a utter failure; I could not raiK»
heat higher than 38° on frosty days witho«
lamp smoking, and smoking is simply nnnow
two ways—it wastes the oil and kills the pi
Then, as a last resource, I tried twoeigbteenp®*
ordinary paraffin lamps (to hang on the w
set them on the floor each about 2 feet
shelf to break the current of hot air
would naturally rush to the top of the bow
have had the utmost success with them- * ,
a uniform temperature of 60° to 52 , - .

I chose, I could raise it to 60° by
lampe on full, as aU my plants are doing

IBANA-CHAMPAIGN

phj i< l£. 1884.]

QARDEmtfQ ILLUSTRATED

6H

nay be interesting to say what I have,
lenbair Ferns crowded with new leaves,
isia* and show Pelargoniums, an Azalea or
Tulip*. Narcissi, Hyacinths, Lily of the
•y, Spine as, Lobelias, Liliums, Petunias,
imine, and about seven dozen autumn-struck
nga, and two dozen old plants. The
men plants I have had to keep in the
house bat to lift into the small house
rosty evenings. I ought to say that the
ht of the house to gutter is 5 feet, and in
re, 7 feet. The cost of the oil is (frosty and
weeks together) Is. 2d. a week, though, if
only desired to keep things alive at a tern-
tore say of 42°, it could be done for about
that sum. The plants are fall of leaf and
king freely.— Roger, Southport.

to grow it. Its shining mahogany-coloured
tubers are so small that they are ordinarily
planted much too thickly. Half a dozen tubers
are quite enough for a good sized deep Eeed
pan. not too heavy to suspend in a strong wire
basket. The pan well drained, should be half
filled with a rich, light compost in which the
tubers should be planted in autumn with a good
half inch of soil over them, leaving a consider¬
able space above for future surface dressing.
When the plants begin to start, the pan should
be hung up as near the light a* possible in a
sunny window or greenhouje, and as they grow
they should be from time to time earthed up
with rich leaf-mould or well decayed manure.
The habit of the plant, like that of many other

sened, but not altogether withheld, and after
growth is complete, and the leaves have disap¬
peared, the pan should not be allowed to remain
dust-dry through the summer, but on rare occa
sions may have water enough to keep the tubers
plunp. About the end of September the pan
may be turned out, and the tubers, which in¬
crease rapidly, replanted as before. The Toot-
growth of this Oxalis is exceedingly interesting,
its long white tuberous underground stem*
being out of all proportion to the small brown
tubers by which it is propagated. Anyone,
curious to see this root development, will be
rewarded by planting half-a-dozen tubers in a
3-inch pot. By and bye, it will be noticed that
the earth is gradually being forced up and over

'(> -Watering Tree Ferns —It Is best to poor
* water that they receive over the trunks, It will
iowo Into the pots; it is safest not to give them
ire water.—J. D. E.

FLOWER BASKETS,
accompanying illustration conveys a good
of the style in which flowers are arranged
ermany. As it represents an arrangement ex-
ed at a German exhibition, it must be in-
•d that it exemplifies the recognised taste in
direction. The arrangement possesses merit,
gh from our point of view it is somewhat
used; in short, too much material is used to
easing; but it is far better than the insipid
igementa often met with at exhibitions in
country, such, for example, as the prevalent
of placing the flowers and foliage with
iematical precision in rows and at set points,
tit one side of the vase should match the
r. Thera is a pleasing style about the
lament here illustrated — an informality
in s great measure compensates for seeming
crowdedneas, and probably if the colours
3 be seen in combination with the form of
materials used, the effect would be enhanced,
flowers consist of Melaleucas, Lady’s Slippers
>ripediam birbatum), Epacrises, Ciianthus
lpieri, Habrothamnus corymbosus,Camellias,
onias, Spiraea japonica, and others, inter¬
red with Ferns, Asparagus procumbens, and
siphyllum asparagoides. With such materials
ie«e any basket could be made to have a
bt and pretty effect, but we imagine the
»lay would have been more pleasing had
er subjects been used, and these few dis-
>d in masses so as to derive from them their
Ml expression of beauty, so to speak,
re is much to be learned even in the simple
ter of arranging flowers, and it is gratifying
ee at some of our principal exhibitions that
rts have been made during the last two or
* years to arrange flower-vases and baskets
e harmoniously than hitherto. Nothing can
ovelier than a v&sefal of the early-flowering
ioe Chrysanthemum, mixed, say, with foliage
he evergreen Barberry—always a good and
ie at-able evergreen for cutting ; but if a few
•er* of parple and yellow are intermingled, a
ih discordance is at once produced. YoIIowb
whites associated are pleasing, but a purple
ted spoils the efftet. The question, too, of
most appropriate size and form of flower
eptacle is important, and a good deal might
fitahly be written on this subject. As a rule,
simpler the form the better the effect. We
eutly saw some new forms of flower-vases in
in glass designed expressly for flowers of
ioos kinds and best suited to their size and
a These tastefully filled with one or at
st two kinds of flowers had a beautiful effect,
orally speaking, more pleasure is to be derived
m a v&sefal of one flower blended with its
a or some harmonising foliage than with all
1 flowers which could be cut from a green-
a*. Too little attention is paid, moreover,
harmonising colours. Take, for example, the
-yanthemums, which are just beginning to
me in season. In no other class of flowers
a be found such a discordance of tints, yet, as
rcle, a vaseful of cut blooms put together
«feuly is often very effective.

Oxills oernua.— One of the most showy,
the same time easily grown of plants lor
1 •Aooj window is the Drooping Wood Sorrel
oernua). I have grown it for many years,
•dMch season in April when it is in bloom, it
to me to become more noteworthy. Few
however, know it, and /ewier still how

Digitized by

I fewier still how

Go g

Flower basket arranged in the Geimau style.

species of Oxalis, being to throw up a long neck
of stem which is all the better for support,
while the roots luxuriate in the additional feed¬
ing. When the pan is placed in a window, it
should be turned every day or two to prevent
the plants becoming one-sided, and watering
must not be neglected. This treatment will
result in an abundance of flower-stemB being
produced by each tuber, and I know no prettier
sight than a well-grown basket of this Oxalis,
with its numerous large lemon yellow flowers
with their red-tipped stamens open in the sun¬
shine of an April day, for it must be placed in
the full sun. It lasts long in bloom, especially
if the withered flowers are carefully removed,
and its trefoil-like leaves dotted with black,
form a characteristic feature by which the plant
may always be recognised. There is a double
variety, and opinions differ as to their respective
value, but it is probable that the single form
will be preferred by most cultivators. When
flowering is over, water may be gradually les¬

the sides of the pot when it may be turned out
and examined. If repotted at once with a
greater allowance of room the experiment will
not greatly interfere with the well-being of the
plants, though they can scarcely be expected to
bloom freely. The white tubers entirely disap
pear before the plants have perfected their
growth for the season.—K. L D.

Zinc pans for hanging baskets—A
useful pan and sa icer in one may be made in
galvanised zinc by having the drainage holes cut
in the bides of the pan about a quarter of an
inch from the base, thus avoiding all drip.
Three or four of these, according to the size of
the pan, will not be too many. A flat-bottomed
wire basket containing such a pan is one of the
most desirable of suspended plant holders.
Everyone who has attempted the culture of
hanging plants in a window knows the difficulty
of contending with drip, nnd how oXtjp.tfce

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

(50

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[April!

watering of a plant is neglected simply on
account of this trouble. The basket may be
made in any size, with the pan to correspond, and
this can be made to order at any ironmonger’s.
The interstices of the basket work may be filled
with Moss, like any other form of plant basket.
Zinc pans and troughs of various kinds are valu¬
able adjuncts to the gardener’s requisites, and
are practically indestructible.

HINTS ON GARDEN PESTS.

In dealing with this subject, I will first mention
a few of the pests that beset the outdoor gar¬
dens. Some of them will be well known to
everyone, but there are others that are scarcely
known to anyone but the experienced gardener.
I will mention the following :—

The slug. —Some gardens are worse than
others in harbouring the slug ; box edgings and
dwarf shrubs are a capital retirement for them.
Although I do not here refer to the shell snails,
the garden that has no Box edgings, however,
is by no means free from them, for a large
Cabbage or Broccoli bed will produce such a
fctock that if not speedily got rid of will cause
much damage. I will now give a few brief
hints how to get rid of slags. As soon as the
ground is cleared of its crops, procure a large
quantity of fresh lime and slack it into powder
by slightly damping it or by exposing it to
the air, then choose a warm, damp evening,
when slugs will be found in large nambers
crawling over the ground. Proceed to sow the
powdered lime all over the ground, which will
be a quick death to the slug, and will not hurt
very tender plants providing that it is not left
in heap 9 upon tender seedlings. The same
remedy will apply to the shell snail. The next
plagues that I will bring under notice are birds.
I always look upon them as necessary
evils, for there is no doubt that they do
much good as well as harm. My advice
in this case is to cover all small seeds with wire
protectors or old fishing netting, which can be
procured at a very moderate prioe, but in some
large gardens where it is impossible to cover
such crops of vegetables and fruits as Peas,
Strawberries, Raspberries, Apples, and Pears
owing to the very large quantities being grown
birds are moat destructive and provoking. Pow¬
der is the only remedy.

Mice are troublesome creatures too, and great
care should be taken in keeping them under in
the case of such seed* as are put into the open
ground, as Peas and Beans, it is safest to damp
the seeds and coat them over with powdered red
lead at the time of sowing; or soak them in
petroleum will answer the same purpose. But
mice do not confine themselves to outdoor crops,
for in the spring when Cucumbers, Melons, and
Vegetable Marrows are sown under glass a mouse
will quickly carry off seeds of great value in a
very short time. The safest plan that I have
adopted in this case, is to only fill the pot con¬
taining the seed or seeds to about two-thirds of
its depth, then cover completely with panes of
glass, the size suitable for the pot, until the
plant has grown up to touch the glass, when it
will be out of danger of the mouse.

Cockroaches will nibble the tender stems of
plautB, and the roots of Orchids, if not watched.
If there if any suspicion of their presence, pur¬
chase a small jar of phosphorus paste, and spread
it on slices of bread and butter, they will eat it
readily, and will meet destruction.

Black fly is a perfect torment on Peach,
Nectarine, Cherry, and Rose trees. With this, as
indeed with all other pests, you will always find

prevention better than cure,” so start early in
the spring with the garden engine, using Glshurst
compound, at the rate of one quarter of a pound
to three gallons of soft, luke-warm water. This
is a weak solution, but it will suffice if the fly
has not been allowed to get too strong. If the
insects still live, increase the strength of the
solution, and use plenty of force from the garden
engine. This began and followed up will keep
red spider 91 check too. Black fly if once
allowed to get established on Cucumbers or
Melons in houses or frames, breeds with great
rapidity, and to get rid of it is easier written
about than done, but be sure to start to get rid
of it a 9 soon as you have any suspicion of its
being there, remembering that •' a stitch in time
saves nine.” I will go into the houses and intro¬
duce a familar^oe.

Digitized by GOOQlC

The mealy bug.— A continuous battle must
be kept up to get rid of this enemy, if he has
once got a firm footing. If any plants are in¬
fested that are of no great value, such as
Pelargoniums or any soft-wooded plants, put
them at once into the fire. But such plants as
Stephanotis, Eucharls, Hoyas, Clerodendrons,
and Dipladenias, that are worth a struggle for,
and are not too difficult to clean on account of
their foliage being smooth, take them at once
from their trellises, and get a tub and mix up a
sufficient quantity of Gishurst compound to
immerse the whole of the plant. Use the
compound at the strength of quarter of a pound
to one gallon of soft, warm water. After well
dipping two or three times, syringe sharply with
the garden engine to take off the soapy substance
left on the plant. Follow this practice up until
the plants are clean, which will be sure enough
if persevered with. If this pest has reached the
Grape Vine, this is the worst position he could
take up. Commence operations as soon as
possible in the autumn by pruning the Vines as
soon as it is safe to do so, laying a tarpaulin over
the whole of the floor of the vinery, then take
down the Vines and scrape very carefully with
a blunt knife, taking care that the whole of the
scrapings fall upon the tarpaulin or whatever
cloths can be found for the purpose; then mix
up a large pail of Gishurst compound, and with
a new scrubbing brush thoroughly scrub the
rods from bottom to top. After going
over them all once, and they have got
thoroughly dry, go over them again, working
the brush the other side of the Vine, so as to
make sure that the whole of the Vine has been
well lathered and scrubbed, then allow to dry
again. Now take what Gishurst remains, and
add clay and cow manure, with a trowelful of
soot, and mix to the consistency of thickish
paint; apply to the rods with a paint brush,
being sure that every hole, crack and corner is
filled with the paint. Then befoie tying the
Vines into theii proper position, have the houses
thoroughly painted inside and out; if this is
out of the question, well scrub with hot soap
and water. Be sure to take the scrapings to the
stoke hole to be burnt, then carefully remove
3 inches of the surface soil, being careful not to
break any roots, taking it right away, and bring
back fresh soil to top-dress the border. After
this any plant about which there is the slightest
suspicion of having mealy bug on it, must upon
no account whatever go into the vinery. Dur¬
ing the whole of the next season’s growth, keep
a keen look out, especially on the main rods of
the Vines, between the roots and spurs, so that
if one should have been left in the border, he
may be found and killed.

Green fly, or Aphides, is a very common
pest to all who grow plants. The worst of this
pest is that it is frequently most numerous in
conservatories near the house, where it often
happens that you have not the liberty for fumi¬
gating that you would like, owing to the offen¬
sive small it causes. However, try and keep
plants clgan before going to the conservatory,
but if compelled to fumigate use Tobacco cloth
or paper, which is the most efficacious remedy,
being careful that it does not ignite, but
smoulder on, fill the house twice or thrice in
succession rather than overdo it at the time.
If on very tender seedlings (when there might
be a great fear of scorching), try Tobacco
powder, dusting on with a distributor ; this may
be done, too, when fumigating is objectionable.

Thrips must be kept in check by sharp
syringing by the garden engine ; in fact, where
the engine can be used freely few thrips will
stand against it, but if they do get bad it will
be wiser to fumigate severely, as if left the
damage they will do to the foliage is alarming.

Scale —There may be many species of the
scale bug, but I will confine myself to the
brown and white scale, too well known to us.
The brown scale, if allowed to get bad upon plants,
is a shocking thing to deal with, for an insecti¬
cide that will effectually kill this will very
probably kill the plant too. If the plants in¬
fested are very bad, and are of no high value,
take the same advice as with those infested
with mealy bug, viz., throw them away. You
will frequently find scale on Ferns, many of the
Pteris’s, being very liable to have it, they will
soon make the plant turn yellow and sickly, so
throw them away and get clean young specimens
instead. If you determine to try and kill it, try

the Gishurst precisely the same as w‘t|
bug. The white scale which is most fii|
seen on Camellias, is not so bad to i
sponge with Gishurst compound, then|
with the garden engine. W. F.'

Oak-wood.

ANSWERS TO QTJERIT

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11050.— Leather-crated grubs am
Pinks and Carnations.—Referring to the a
pondence of “G. B." and 44 J. D. E." or
above subject, I would just offer a few res
“ G. B.” says remove the soil to the d«p
3 feet. Who would for a moment think oh
such a thing to kill a few grubs, ie,if
were the cause of his Carnations being nun
close to the ground, and it would aho «
from the remarks of “ J. D. E. ’ that be ha
fered in the same way, and had his plant* b
off close to the ground. Although 1 hare j
respect for the opinions of “ J. D. E "<a
point, I must differ with him and “G.B'i
the cause. It is no grub at all that doe*
I have 200 Carnation plants and abos
Pinks which were served just in the ssac \
The game went on until a week ago when,
dening went on in earnest, or until the pi
was frequented. As I felt sure no rabbit* ri|
the spot, but having a wild cat about tie,
mises (which we had seen, rabbit-like, dera
the young Fern fronds, she got the blame},
the real enemy is the wily sparrow. Mjr
have shot up wonderfully during the list!
days since the birds have been kept off. Hi
known this sooner my remedy would b&rel
to dust heavy with soot, as this would I
rendered the points of the young shoots H
and unpalatable. As good sometime* coasi
of evil, bo the mowing down has made tbepfc
bushy, and, perhaps, a greater crop ofw
will be the result. I cannot bclpmentid
with reference to the pest, daddy-long-lep.
in nearly every early London Cauliflower 1
last July I found one of these flics W
eggs. This was not the case with Walcb«r«
self-protecting kinds of Cauliflower, which
saved from being spoiled with this pest byl
close growth.— W. Phillips.

11280 — Nitrate of soda for pl&G
“Eve” does not say what plants she aeu
apply nitrate of soda solution to, or wk
they are in the open border or in pet
solution of one pound in twelve or fifteen
of water is about the usual strength; S
liquid manure that would be beueficiil &
Chrysanthemum would be death to a k
section of plants. Nitrate of soda is ail«
well in its way, having a very qnick actioM
showing its effects in a few days, bat its q»
as a permanent manure I very much doubt
a top-dressing to wheat its effect is to p w
large amount of straw, bub 1 do not r 1
effect is at all proportionate in the cafe I
ear. From this fact we may gather
the effect is greater on the foliage that <j
flower of plants. Viewing its efficacjl
manure to pot plants we must be goidj
these facts, it is a great stimulant, and i
are very speedily evident. All these ue|
or less unnatural (though in some cases t
results, and I think, after such a stixrsoj
growth, a plant experiences a reaction,
fore, my advice is, never apply nitrate c
stronger than one pound to twelve gallor
even then great caution should be r
making an experiment in the greenhorn* -
11285.— Insects in gardens -Tl
trees seem to be in a bad way,and this is|
less owing to their being recently plau^
will not be u very expensive business to r
with fresh plants, and you must see tbi
are not kept too long out of the groBBu-,
will not do any good hunting for win?
with a lamp at night, but after huntinr;
hours for slugs, there should not be ea:
Plaoe slices of Carrots or Potatoes roui
plants, and the slugs will go on those it«jj
on the plants; examine the baits at wS*
destroy the slugs. Bury slices of Carrot
ground to attract the wireworms and el
them daily. I would not bother abony
a hedgehog, but a few toads are
garden.—J. D. E.

—&-H In reply to “ Hope ” and other en(l

as to the best way to destroy insect

RBANA-CHAMPAIGN

ril li, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

01

ga, wire worms, and woodlice, in gardens
r'-a q houses, I beg to state the most efficient
[ have found is to bay a dozen or two
;ea (the larger the better), cat them in half
et the pulp out without breaking the peel,
the caps hollow side downwards slightly
. Go round with a lamp at night and
me the traps, when I have no doubt
reds of the enemy will be caught in a short
1 had a fernery indoors, the plants in
i were almost worried with all kinds of
n, especially sings and woodlice, but thanks
a simple method above mentioned, they are
it squashed.— T. G. Barnsley.

511— Woodlice in frames.— The most
mal way to get rid of these pests is to
boiling water *>ver them. The best time to
tis is as soon as the covering is taken off in
Drning. The woodlice are then generally
t the walls, and may be killed wholesale
curing boiling water oat of a rose-water pot
i the walls inside the pot. Or else take a
d Potato, wrap it up in some dry hay and
t in a flower-pot; place this in one corner
rur frame and they (the woodlice) will con-
ate in it in large numbers; it should be
lined every morning and the woodlice
en out. Another way is to keep some dry
one the top of a 9-inch square floor tile, and
ig another tile of the same size, bruising all
are in the hay once or twice a day ; by so
g the number may be materially decreased.
R. Butler, Thuxfora .

294 —Raising now Auriculas— This
it difficult, and you have some of the very
varieties to start with. It is best not to
the classes; cross green with green, grey with
, &c. Home of the seedlings may be as good
»en better than the parents, but you will
j to make up your mind to have many dis-
itntmentp. The anthers must be removed
re the pollen cases burst from the seed¬
ing parent, and this must be done before the
are quite open. In about three days the
era will be ready for the pollen, which must
ransferred to the seed-bearing plant with a
11 camel-hair brush. The seeds are usually
in July, when they may be sown at once or
1 until spring.—J. D.

the cats’ claws, and they hardly ever try a second
time.—T roIos.

Early Asparagus.—It may interest some readers
of Gardening} to know that I commenced cutting As¬
paragus from the open beds in my garden on the 25th of
March. The sort is Sutton's Reading Giant. The beds
were made and sown in the spring of 1878, and were not
cut from for four years —J. T. TREFFRY, Bide ford, Devon.

11316 — Hyacinths.— This question is rather obscure.
Does it mean the leaves falling off from the old bulbs?
If so, the bulbs should be shaken out from the soil and
be kept in a dry place until it is time to repot them again
in September or October.-J. D. E.

Isaac Boden.—lt the Cabbage is not a vegetable, what
is it ? We do not quite understand what is meant by
a pure vegetable.

Hodge.— The “London Market Gardens,” by C. W.
Shaw, will give you the information you Beek. Published
by Routledge A Co.

Cheshire.— Send us a piece of the plant, and then we

may be able to help you.- T. C. U.— We know of no

such book.

Names of plants.—Mrs. Kennedy.- Asplenium
Adiantum nigrum, commonly called Black Spleenwort,

obtainable at most nurseries.- G. F. Donald.—

1, Adiantum chilense; 2, Blechnum ianceolatum; 3,
Adiantum excisum multlfldum; 4, A. puptscens hispida-

lum.- A. B. G .—The specimens were too muchcruahed

to be recognisable- J. H. A.—We could not possibly

name Daffodils which are dried up and battened.-

H. J. H. Ware.— Helleborus viridis.- Tenbury.— Iris

flmbriata; Browallta Jamesoni.- Hon. Mrs. B.—

Apparently Veratrum album, but cannot be certain unless

we see flowers.- J. T. Ftnchette.— Berberis Darwiui

shrub; Moss in 3elagtnella uncinats.- A non. —1, Plnus

species; 2, Enonymus europteus ; 3, Pittosporum Tobira.

- Miss M. Penh ridge. —Saxif r aga crassifolla.- M. C.

Crump.— Berberis DarwinL- J. H. A. —1, Phalus gran-

difolius; 2, Dendroblum speciosum; 3, Apparently a Bras-
savola. Send when in flower; 4, Vinca major (Peri¬
winkle). B. E . F'.— Please send a specimen in flower or

one in a box not crushed.- W. Cuthbtrtson.— 1, Appa¬

rently Physlanthus albens ; 2, Cannot name. C.R.— 1,

Narcissus incomparabllis ; 2, Double variety of No. 1; 3,

N. poeticus; 4, Anemone apcnnina.- Uncle Jef.—l,

Begonia semperflorens; 2, Ascleplas curaasavica; 3,
Hibiscus rosa sinensis variegata; 4, Oncidium trique¬
trum.- F. H.—l, Sedum acre ; 2, Pulmonarla angusti-

folia.- U. Simpson.— Retinospora plnmosa.— L.M.G.—

A species of Cacalla, light sandy soil and kept rather dry.

- Stoke.— Double Anemone fulgens.- F. W. A .—1,

Asplenium bulbiferum; 2. Athyrium Filix-fu-mlna

variety.- Anon.— All the five flowers of Daffodil you

send are double varieties of Narlclssus incomparabllis.
S . A. Brenan —2, Narcissus minor; 3, N. incomparabllis

(double).- Dorking.— Forsythia viridlsatma.- Harold

Russell.— Stauntonia latifolia.- Dante.— Aspidium fal-

catum ; Doodiadives (small).- A. M.— Primula villosa.

1308.— Manure for garden.— It ia a
it mistake to mix lime with fermenting
iare, bat it will be fit for use in a month if
will throw it up in a loose, round heap, and
i it over twice in that time. It is better to
ovw the flower beds and apply the manure
rioter. Herbaceous borders should be dug
: if necessary early in March, as by that
3 the flowers will mostly be showing them¬
es. In most cases it is best not to dig such
lers at all.—J. D. E.

— If “ Ebor ” will mix the fresh horse and
• manure with the soot and lime, and turn
heap twice during the next month, it will be
tor use in either flower or kitchen garden.—

Phillips.

1283 — Culture of Chicory.— Chicory is
used in France dressed aa Spinach. ChicorGe
& (Curled Endive) is very popular when
nched for salad, or boiled green like Spinach,
ave some growing all the year round in my
flen by sowing in April, May, and June,
uuplant the first sowing on a north border or
will run. Last sowing put on south border
winter use. Well-drained, light, rich soil is
best. In heavy, damp soil the plants will
. Green cnrled Endive is best for boiling;
'•-curled Endive for salading.— Frenchman.

v -Plant® for shady border.—
abbood (Aoonitum Napellus) for antumn,
Anemone (Trollius europwus) for Jane or
fot May, Wild Hyacinth the same, and oom-
Ihffodil (Narcissus Pseudo Narcissus) are
' * certain to be suitable for the site named,
■iag flowers are preferred, only the Wild
cinth (Hyacinthus Non Scriptus), Daffodil
Snowdrops are almost certain to give satis-
' WL-F. M. K.

f 1236. -Oats injuring trees. — After
reveral young trees, and having others
; **8^ bo seriously that their condition for
. ieReasons after was precarious, we tried the
remedy, which hitherto has proved a
t«s!ul preventive of their scratching: Wrap
I * ®«hed wire netting once round the trunk
i roflbt of about 2.4 feet. This- catches in

T Digitized by G<5 ~

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.—AH commuinca
Hons for insertion should be clearly and concisely written
on one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor.
Letters relating to business to the Publisher. The name
and address qf the sender t* required, in addition to any
nom do plume to be used in the paper. Atisicers to Queries
should always bear the number and title qf the query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece qf paper. Owing to the necessity qf
Garden rso going to press a considerable time before the
day qf publication, it is not possible to insert queries and
sommunications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again.

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flower* only
can be named at one time , and this only when good
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name
varieties qf florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums ,
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. Any
communication respecting plants or Aowtrs sent to name
should always accompany the parcel.

11366.—Grubs in gardens. — In digging in my gar¬
den in St. John's Wood I often turn up a grub from au
inch to an inch-and-a-half long, yellow, and apparently
so lifeless that ho could be mistaken for a fungus. He is
not the grub of daddy-long-legs, ahloh I know well, for
he is about hslf-au-inoh in diameter. I unearthed one
to-day from a depth of about three inches, and I resolved
to watch him exposed in the sun on an inverted flower¬
pot. After about h&lf-an-houi's baking In the sun, to
which he is so unaccustomed, he suddenly ejected a good-
sized earthworm partly digested, then began to extend
himself till he was about 4 Inches long by a quarter-of-an-
inch in diameter, and displayed the characteristics of the
snail tribe, having horns, Ac. Not feeling sure that he
would respect my plants. I dismissed him I shall he
glad if any reader can tell me more about him. If his
brethren stick to eating worms I shall be sorry to inter¬
fere with them La the future. Will they T-Y.

11367.—Culture of herbs.—For several yeaisl have
used a portion of my vegetable garden for the cultiva¬
tion of flowers, bnt have now decided to have a change
uid go In for herbs, and as this Is a branch I have made
no particular study of I should be glad of a little advice
on the subject. I purpose to begin with the following
Rue, Wormwood, Germander, Featherfew, Comfrey,
Sage, Southernwood, Horehound, Pennyroyal, Centuary,
Hyssop, Mint, Dandelion, Yarrow, and Lavender. The
information I seek after is : (1) Which can I raise from
seed and where can I obtain it? (2) How mast I obtain
remainder ? (3) Or, where could I get roots or cuttings of
all, as I can only get part here ? This applies to seed as
well. (4) Which requires a good soli and liberal treatment ?
(6) Which will thrive in a rather damp and sunless portion
of the garden,which I unfortunately have?—H. K. N.

11358.—Reducing a large Palm.—I have a large
’ and do not know what to do with it on account of

its size ; it is about 12 feet high independent of the tub
It is In. If I were to cut it partly through about 3 feet
below the head, and bind Moss and clay on the stem
just above the cut, would it emit roots into the Aloas
so as in due time the head coaid be taken away and

F itted and the old stem thrown away ? If it can be done
could house it in my greenhouse, and it would then be¬
come a valuable plant, whereas now it is useless. I have
been told it can be done but I am doubtful. I am anxious
to save the plant if possible.—J. Macfarlane March.

11359.—Tuberous Begonias.—I am much dis¬
turbed by the article on Tuberous Begonias for bedding
by“C.”in Gardening! of March 29, for this reaion :
Finding that a pink Begonia planted out last summer
was a great succois, I have this spring bought tubers of
Begonia Pearcei, Intending to have a small bed entirely
of them, but " O.” warns people agaimt bedding out any
but red and pink Begonias. Will “ C." or some other
reader kindly say whether they have tried the experi¬
ment with Begonia Pearcei; and if so, whether it failed ?
—M. B.

11360.- Flow era and foliage In autumn*
winter, and spring.—Will someone assist me by suggest¬
ing what I can plant in my beds and borders to make a
ihow either of flower or brilliant foliage during the
antumn, winter, and spring? I am very partial to carpet
bedding, and intend to carry out some design this year,
but am anxious to prepare plants ready to follow directly
after the beauty of the carpet beds are over. The
position of my garden is by the sea, and winds are my
great enemy. Any suggestion will be valued —Amelio¬
rator.

11361.— White Jasmine cuttings.—I havo three
or four Joaimlne cuttings which have successfully
grown In a box to which I attached upright glass sides
and a glass flat top. How should I now proceed ? Ought
I to pot off singly, or will they bear to be transplanted
ont-of-doors direct. I was thinking of twisting the top
glass round a little at a time, and so admitting air
gradually prior to potting. Would this be the correct
way to proceed ? Perhaps some reader can tell me, as.
having kept them all through the winter, 1 do not want
to lose them now.— Fekndalx the First.

11862 . — Propagating Grevillea robust a. — I
had a specimen of this handsome plant given to me last
summer. During the winter all the leaves havo fallen
off, but it is now shooting very thickly. I want to cut
it back very considerably, and I Bhould like to know if I
should have any chance of striking cuttings os I have
not a greenhouse, but I have a window facing due south,
and I nave a small box with glass attached, In which I
have recently struck cuttings of White Jasmine. Any
hints will be appreciated.— Fern dale the First.

11363.—Hardy flowers for border.— I am about
making a border for hardy flowers in lieu of my usual
bedding plants, and should be glad ot assistance from any
reader on the subject. The border gets sun nearly all
day, is quite open, aspect east, aud borders the lawn. It
is about SO feet long and 44 feet wide. As several win¬
dows look on to the border I should like a succession of
bloom.—E. M. Hall.

11864.— Manuring.— Is liquid manure good for every
kind of flower, and Is now the time for using It, especially
to Auricula and Lilies? What kind of water is best for
Water Ferns, and should a shade be kept over tender
Ferns ? A Maiden-hair Fern I have does not appear to
be growing. The soli is mossy on the top. I keep it in a
medium warm window. Should I repot it, and what
kind of soil is best for it?— Erin-qo-Bragh.

11366.—Fowl manure for Mushroom growing.
—In looking over an old book on poultry the other day,
I was surprised to read that poultry manure is good for
growing Mushrooms, and that an old fowl-houre bad
been known to bring forward a crop of Mushrooms
annually without any assistance whatever. Has anyone
tried the above.—J. G. Barsnley.

11366.—Treatment of Roses —Do Bourbon Roses
In open ground require pruning, and to how many buds ?
When is it safe to prune them ? What treatment should
the Rose A K. Williams get ? I wish to exhibit it with some
others this year. Is superphosphates a good manure for
Roses ? How is it applied, in what quantity, and at what
time?—M. P. Q.

11867.—Tuberous Begonias for bedding.—I
have read with great interest “C.'s" paper on Tuberous
Begonias for bedding. Will he be so kind as to say
what distance he allows between the Begonias in his
beds, as I wirh to have a good show of them this lunimer
and from what “ C." says I think the soil in my beds
very favourable for them ?— Stoke.

11368.— Marechal Nlel Roses pale In colour.—
I h we had ten Marechal Niel Roses in pots la a green¬
house for somo years which are always of a pale yellow
colour. Can anyone tell me the cause of this and the
remedy ? They are not shaded. I have also grown Mare¬
chal Niels on the walls of the same greenhouse whioh
have been of the proper deep colour.—R. R.

1 1.369. - Continuous blooming Pansies.-I have
a yellow Pansy (I think it is Cliveden yellow) Cuttings of
it were planted out in bloom the middle of last April
They grew very quickly, nnd were a mass of bloom tili
the middle of October, when they were cut down by
frost. The plants were fully a foot square. I should be
glad to know if there are any other Pansies of a similar
habit.-J. B.

11870— O as tor-oil plants and fliea— Will the
castor-oil plant keep a greenhouse clear of the com¬
mon house fly? Last summer we were swarming with
these plagues in the warmest part of the greenhouse
Perhaps some reader may have been bothered in the
same way and coold give a good recipe for keeDimr these
smaU but noisy pests outside.-B. E. “

^ i y n r P ! a J lt8 f or bay windoW8. —Will someone
kindly furnish me with a list of twelve plnnts suitable
for a south-east bay window, which is kept open night and
day in summer? I want something nice, bnt not too
costly. I have a tuberous Begonia just showing above
soil. ITow shall I treat it to make it thrive ?—M. E. W
ll375.-Carnations and Pinks.—I am sure
very many readers would be pleased If someone
would give a aeries of thoroughly rchaastive articles on
the cultivation, both for indoor and outdoor, of these
favourite flowsis.—NKSro. “ “|~V Qp

CHAMPAIGN

Digitized by

Gck igle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

iii l 12, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

63

y they are discovered, and the necessary
lies applied. Ten to one the bird has in¬
ion and hard crop to begin with; but the
of this indigestion is the secret to search
It may be bad food, musty or mouldy
or meal, unfit to be taken into the sto-
The stomach is a sensitive member, and
a noxious food. Notwithstanding fowls
in that diet which appears to us filthy and
in, yet when left alone to search out their
food they rarely take in any indigestible
inces. It is either a weak, low state, or bad
that produoes this difficulty.— Country
Vi man.

tea on poultry.—I read with great
st your poultry notes, and think it may,
pa, interest some of your readers to give
count of a bird killed to-day. It was
ed in January, 1883, from Plymouth rock
purchased at 7s. 6d. per sitting. I had
rds out, only two of which were the mottled
the other four black. Three of these
silled early t hi a year, as they had not com-
3d laying. They were very fat and fine
fowls; some very tiny eggs were visible
drawn. We reserved the fourth black
•aa tbe comb looked so red, and it was a
>ird. We have carefully watched since,
aye never found her on the nest, and
it was condemned, and when drawn was
asely fat, but not the faintest trace of an
Is this not exceptional ? I have kept
y eleven years, and it is new in my ex-
tee. I have found two cross-bred hens
light brahma hen, and June silver-
led cock)grow wonderful layers. They have
iraost daily since last October. They are
birds, Hamburgh in shape and size, but
with dark hackles. I just named these,
question of cross-bred fowls has been so
•sed of late in your paper. My birds have
'ell all the winter. I have not been one
without eggi, although we get as low
as three in the moulting time. Last week
ninety-two eggs from twenty-three hens,
only ten chickens as yet, now a month old.
«*ed principally on barley (good sound
). and I always give wheat at moulting
in very cold weather boiled potatoes
warm. The fowls have a good run, a
ed f-ted, and nest-boxes, perches, roost ing-
i and it is thoroughly cleaned every week,
*' CI 7 crevice lime dusted. The roostiDg-
tloors are covered with oinder-dust. I
oot lost a bird for over a year with illness.

I had advice from ** Andalusian ” on the
X my poultry account always showed a
ce, although a small one to the good.

e Minorca fowl.— A writer of this
•y says: -Leghorns and Plymouth rocks
to be doing all the work in America, and
T^ater part of it in England. Now, if I
to show a good account, I look to Minorca®,
tally in such a winter as we are now en-
g-for enjoying it I suppose we are, not-
UndiDg the suggestions, and perhaps fears,

. we „ P*y for such “ unseasonable
w befiore long—Minorcas are laying, and
^ well, whilst if their eggs are massed, and
3 * °j S°° d feed they represent in bulk
wdered, I doubt if we shall not find as
! -o recommend the Minorca as any other
L^ Mbire is the home °f our shin-
act mends—perhaps on account of its
, bnt where now is the breed
presented ? The great thing to remember
hen hens lay so many and such great
they cannot last; and therefore they
^ replaced before ^

id

Tki they are worn

1 *. u ” oft ° n forgotten, and people
nii*. . ^ ver come over the hens ?” It
at this time of the year to
a lot of Minorca fowl. Their glossy
cLincr^ red i , corDba may be regarded as
-bot?M» m0re . a P r °mi*o. I wonder a
2* - C , 0mb u not alwa y« noticed and in-
jor J me !? 8 80me thiog wrong, out of
a An tight, and to be improved

coat and e y® "l* 1 in an in-
l he _} Txxth an experienced lover
^2 a v,, herda ; 1118 °° mb of a is

re f d7 a wit ? e83 . of th « in *

II ii m e i A glance at it will say if a i tne peej, ana also to give a nutty navour to tne
1 noi/cT f °^ • macb more quickly milk. Beat up one large egg or two small ones

flit

^rtcarefol outside invesj

Digitize

will say if a the peel, a
Bore quickly milk. Bei
^galion of tan mi

breech-loading gun will proclaim the same fact.
Anyone may be assured that with such weather
as we have had for some weeks past, if their
hens are not ** red-beaded,” there is something
very wrong in management or arrangement, and
something which it is quite possible to over¬
come.

Early pullets.— Pullets hatched in early
spring are the most valuable, for with good care
and judicious feeding they will begin laying in
October or November, and perhaps before. By
having commenced before winter has fairly set
in, says a writer in a contemporary, they will
continue to lay throughout the winter, when eggs
are worth about three times as much as they are
at any other time of the year, provided they have
a warm shelter from winter's cold. Then, too,
when early sitting time comes agan next spring,
they will have laid several sittings of eggs, and
if mated to a good healthy bird, the eggs will
be as large as from adult hens. Pullets hatched
late are almost worthless as breeders next spring,
for they will be small when winter sets in, and
get stunted by cold weather; and when sitting
time comes in the spring they will only have I
commenced laying, and the eggs will be woith-
less for hatching purposes. And if they hatch
at all, the chicks are liable to be weakly and not
strong, as they would be if coming from older
hens.

Gapes in ohlokens —I have tried the
remedy advised in Gardening, March 29th, for
gapes in chickens by rubbing a little carbolic
acid on the feathers inside tbe hen’s wings. We
diluted it considerably with water. One hen
died in half-an-honr, the other is still alive, hut
seems to be paralyzed. We washed her well
with cold water on seeing the other die, but the
twenty fine chicks are motherless, for wo dare
not let them go near the survivor.—A. H. H.

Turkeys and Chickens’ feathers.— Can anyone
tell me where to tend feathers of turkeys or chickens to
be sold, and what price I ought to git for them? —
E. T.

THE HOUSEHOLD.

Apple Rice.— Boil four ounces of Rice in
milk until it is tender. Peel and core six good
Apples, and put them into a small saucepan with
water sufficient to cover them; add as much
sugar to the water as you think will sweeten the
Apples, and stew gently until quite tender, but
not broken ; then lift them out carefully and let
them drain ; take other three good Apples, pare,
core, and cut in quarters, put them in the liquid
in which the Apples were stewed, and boil down
to a pulp or marmalade. If you think there is
too much liquid, take some out before you put
in the cut Apples. Beat up the yolks of three
eggs for ten minutes, mix with the Rice, then add
the marmalade of Apples; spread this mixture
on to a baking dish. Take the bottom of a tea¬
cup and make six holes in the Rice, and into
each hollow put an Apple, having the Rice level
with the tops of the Apples; bake in a moderate
oven about half an hour; serve hot. After you
take the dish from the oven, and just before
dishing up, put a teaspoonful of Apricot jam, or
any other you may prefer, on the top of each
Apple, and serve quickly, or if jam is not wished,
sprinkle some pink sugar over the top of the
Apples, and serve up before it melts. The Rice
after being boiled must he soft like a pudding;
it will not be nice if at all dry. The juice of a
Lemon added to the water before putting in the
Apples is a great improvement; if Lemon juice i6
added more sugar is required.

wholesome Rice pudding.— The
general fault in the making of puddings is that
they are too good (rich). This is not at all
required for something usually used after a per¬
son has diDed. If people would only leave out
all fat the puddings would be much lighter and
better for those who eat them. Wash two
ounces of rice, and pick out the black parts; put
the rice on in boiling water, and boil twenty
minutes to plump and soften it; drain it from
the water. Rut a pint of milk in a saucepan
with the peel of a Lemon, the yellow part only,
or any other flavouring you may prefer. Bring
the milk to a boil; must he done very slowly,
and let it stand by the side of tbe fire about
twenty minutes to extract the full flavour from
the peel, and also to give a nutty flavour to the

l minutes, take the pieces of peel out of

the milk, and poor the hot milk over the eggs,
add the Rice you strained, and pour altogether
into a pudding dish, and hake in a moderately
heated oven about half an hour.

13065.— Orange marmalade. — “Con¬
stant Reader ’ will find the following a most
luscious preserve: Six Seville Oranges, three
sweet Oranges, three Lemons, three quarts of
water, 6 lb. of powdered lump sugar.
Mode: Peel the fruit, take out the pips, cover
the peel with cold water, and soak all night.
Then put it in a preserving pan, and cover with
water, boil till tender, then take out and cut in
thin strips an inch long. Throw away the
water, and put in tbe three quart* of clean water
and the 6 lb. of sugar. Let it just boil to
make a syrup, into which put the fruit and
peel. Stir well and skim, and boil three-quarters
of an hour.— Rosaline.

13067.— Parsnip wine. —Take 15 lb. of
sliced Parsnips, boil until quite soft in five
gallons of water, squeeze the liquor well out,
run it through a sieve, add 3 lb. of coarse lump
sugar to every gallon. Boil for three-quarters
of an hour. When nearly cold, add a little
yeast on toast. Let it remain in a tub ten days,
stir from the bottom every day. Put into a cask
for a year, as it works over; fill up every day.—
Rosaline.

Lemon wine.—I have a quantity of Lem or s that I
have no use for, and should like to convert them into
Lemon wine. Would some one klodly give me a good
recipe for making this art'cle, or for using them in any
other way ?—Constant Reader.

Tainted meat.—" M. J.” asks If It would bo safe to
wash tainted meat with a solution of Condy’s fluid. I
think it would be safer not to eut meat in that condition.
—A. N.

Hop beer.— Will someone be kind enough to tell me
how to make hop beer? It must be non-intoxicating.—

Coltsfoot wine.— Can any reader give a good recipe
for making coltsfoot wine?—I nformati n.

Parakeets breeding In winter.— Perhaps some
of tbe readers of your bird columns may be in-
forested in hearing that a pair of undulated grass para¬
keets (budgerigars) which I put ioto an aviary in my
garden last autumn,began nesting in November in aCocoa-
nut hnsk. I do not know how soon tbe eggs were laid,
but a fortnight ago a fully-fledged >oung one came ont,
and since that anotner. They are just like the old birds,
only not so bright colour. On opening the nest I found
two unhatched eggs. I suppose «t is not very common for
them to rear young in the winter in an outdoor aviary
in a London suburb.— Henry Budck.

Parrot plucking her feathers .—I have a clever
talking parrot, and she continually picks her feathers
out. If any reader could help me to a remedy, I should
be very glad. Her present appearance is that of being
nearly ready for cooking.—J. b. A.

Babbits eating their young.— Can any reader
te'>l me the c&nae of rabbitseating their young—say when
from one to three days old J—H. J. S.

CATALOGUES RECEIVED.

Stuart and Mein, Eeho, N B. — Amateur's Guide and
Spring Catalogue.

Freeman and Freeman, Norwich—Vegetable and Flower
Seeds.

William J. Wataon, Hall Nurseries, Fenham, Newcastle*
on-1 yne.

Barr and Sons, 12, KlDg Street, Covenk Garden—Flower
and Kitchen Garden Seeds, descriptive list of Irises,
Pyrethrums, Ac.

Benjamin tioddy, 243, Walworth Road, London S.E —
Vegetable, Flower Seeds, and Bulbous Roots.

Collius Brothers and Gabriel, 39, Waterloo road, London
—^eeds, Bulbous Plants, Ac.

F. W. and H. Stansfleld, Sale, near Manchester—Hardy
Perennial and Alpine Plants, also British, Hardy ,
Exotic, and Greenhouse Ferns

Ryder and Sons, Sale, Manchester—Vegetable, Flower
Seeds, and Amateur's Guide.

Daniels Brothers, Norwich—Illustrated Guide for
Amateur Gardeners.

\ and J. Birkenhead, Fern Nursery, Sale, Manchester—
Ferns and Selagtnellas.

John Wilson, Seedsman, Whitehaven-Vegetablo and
Flower Seeds.

Wm. Paul and Son, Crossflat Nurseries, Pa'slcy—
Pansies, Pinks, and other Florists’ Flowers

Walter Ford, Pamber, Basingstoke— Garden and Farm
Seeds, and choice Potatoes, also descriptive list of
Flower Seeds.

George White, Carriage Hill House, Paisley—Florists’
Flowers. Herbaceous and Bedding-out-Planta

Thos. S. Ware, Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham—8e» d
of select Hardy Perennial, Hardy and Tender
Florists* Flowers, Hardy Annuals, Ac., also Bulbs for
Spring Planting.

Paget and Sons, Church Broughton, Derby—Kitchen
Garden, Agricultural, and Flower Seeds.

Richard Smith and Co., St. John's Nurseries, Worcester
—Garden and Flower Seeds.

James Yates, 29, Little Underbark, Stockport-Seeda.

Munro Brothers, Inverness—Seeds.

R. Mann, Shadwc'l -Seeds, Prbe Belgi-n and Shew
Pansies. UTYlVfcRM I Y Or ILLIPiUlb

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

64

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[April 12, lpw.

ntfoug, 4a. 6d. Six new Lammemia (Edelweiss) finest doubU
whites J Rouuesu General Lapas et. Ac-,. 2s 6d ; 8 Abut!
lone distinct. 3a. 6d. ; 6 fie seedling Begcmis*. 3s. fid.: f
distinct Malvina, 2a. : 6 Ferns, distinct 8a : 12 finest double
and sinsle Geraniums, named, 4» fid.; six Pearson s new,
4s. fid ; 6 distinct scented Geraniums, 3a. 64 ; Arum Lilies,
9d and Is, each ; G irdenias. Is. &ich, Stepbartotie, is. fid.
each. Twelve uio* plants for greenhouse, a 1 different, Abu-
tiion. Begonia, Cyclamen, Fuchsia, Gerauinm, Arum, Bo-i-
vanlta, Pern. Pelargonium, Petunia, Salvia, soented Gera¬
nium. 5s 6d. ; double 10t fid. ; Iree.-K. W. liEACHEY,
King-kerswell, Devonshire.

REACHEY’8GARDEN FLANTS.-Aquilegia,

■D four forts including jellow, 2<.; herbtceou* Ph'oxee,
best nimpd, 3 dozen; 12 named Pyrethrams 6s. ; 12 rock
Hants Si ; 6 Lob *iia Queen Victoria dazzling scarlet, 3i ;
r > Anemone j» ponies 2> ; 6 Campanula pereicifoiia Is 61 ;
13 Blue Kiog Pansy, Is. fid. ; 12 Violas in 6 sorts, 2s’; 100
strong Hum s of various herbaceous plants for displsy ail the
season *2*. ; half. 10j..6d.-R W. BXAOHEY, KingrkerswtU,

J >t Vi.Ilrhir«‘

•REAUHLYS CATALOGUE. — Choice seeds.

A* Plaota of all sorts, with instructions how to grow.—
Kingiikerswell, Devon.

CJWEKT VlOLETS^New York, heat double

Vl«*Iet. 2s. 6d. dozen De Parme flntst double lavendf r ,
Belle de Chatenay, double white. 4d each. 3s. fid. dozen;
Riant dow.—I t W BK VOHKY. Kingskt--swell

DEACHEY’B F AN SlKS.—20,000, all beat low

and old Twelve superb show and fancy, named, 3s. fid.,
free; seed. Is. packet Catalogue.—R. W. BE ACHE Y, Kingi-
k irswe 11, Devonshire.

"DBACHKY’8 POLYANTHUS.—Real giant*.

-LI White, yellow, crimson, laced, 4o,; good blooming plants,
2a. fid. doren ; extra large, 3a. Cd. dozen. BeetL. white,
yellow. laoed. Is packet. Mixed, all ooloure, flaest quality,
fid. and la —Klngsk eriwcll, Devonshire. _

REACHEY'S CHRYSANTHEMUMS. - Cut-

Al tings. sfHendid collection. Incurved. Japanese, Pomponr,
Is. 2d. dozen; rooted plants, 2s. 6<L dozen, freeW.
REACHEY, KlngskerswelL Devonshire.

“ST 100*;

. —____ ... doe. 13s 100;

Heliotropes Eucalyptus, choice named Fuchri**, all 2s. doz ;
Arabia lopbantha, very graceful four. Is. ?d : »trong autumn-
sown Panri.s, La vend* r. Carnations. Geumi, Is. doz. 5s.
100 ; Wallflowers (Dark Blood!, 50 *s. fid., sturdy well-rooUd
Hants, froe.-CRANE 4 CLARKE, FiorUta, HaddtDhatn,

EVERYONE WITH A GARDEN

Should grow the following good plants, sure to give
satisfaction ; —

ANEMONE Jsponica alba, 4 plants 2s ; j<er do»en. 6s.
ANEMONE silvestris, similar to the former, but flowers In
>prtug. 4 plai * "

NK “

flERANIUMS, 6i. 100; Vesuvius,

>J« Bi r gle Dahlias from best varieties. 2i. dc

_.. Ante for 2s

PINK Mic Siakius, splendid white Clove-scented, 4 for 2s.;

F ier dozen, 5s.

SY beautiful variegated leaved 3s. per dozen.

DAISY, the rare Hen and-chickeii, 3« per dozen.

DA1HIKH, 11 in fi fine vaneti- a for 3s. 61.

DAI1LIAH, 12 seedling single in 12 varieties. Is fid.

M YOHOTld palustrin semperflorens, new perpetual flowering
Forget-me-not. 4 for Is 6d.

I have still a few slng’e Tuberous BEGONIAS (mixed coloun)
ou hand to clear, strong tubers, 4s. per dozen.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANT* the best that money
can buy, 25 fine sorts 7s fid.; 53 ditto, 13s. fid. ; all tree.

R. MARIES,

Florist,

L'Z'THC-A.M.

(IRANI) NEW FUCHSIAS of 1S83 (Lje a).—

VX Beauty of Cliffe Hall, Harriett Lye. Lye s Rival Mrs.
Bright, Mrs King, Thomas King Mra. Rundle (OanneiTs).
»t»e seven vars, 3n 6d.. poet free.-J. BL VKEMORE, bt.
Onor^es, Wellington, Salop_

pOLBUS of 1883 and 1882.—Lord C Bereafonl,

Y-/ Columbine Multicolor spleudeos, Edith Sentancc Mrs
Bteddall. Ada Sentanee, Mi«s Simpson. Mra John Pawle;
the eight vara, 2s. 31 ; fi do , from the above, my election,
la fid., free.-J. BLAKEMORK, St. Georges, s lington,
"* W*1

HOSEm

HOSE! HOSE

PATENT RED RUBBER GARDEN HOSE

Lasts four times as long as ordinary white vulcanised hose.
Stands severe Government tests, thus proving superiority cf
quality lighter in weight greater in strength, aud cheaper
in the long run than any other ho*e for garden use. A corre¬
spondent write*—“I have had a length of your Red Rubber
Hose lu use nine years, and it is now as good as ever." We
also make garden hose ou the principal of fire hose supplied
by use to CapUiu Shaw. OB, for the Metropolitan Fire
Biigade. Sample* and priced catalogue of hose, garden
engines, and fittings free.

MERRY WEATHER & SONS,

Fire Engiic and Hose Makers. 63 Long Acre, London. W O.

GARDEN WIRE
& METAL WORK.

D i gi

BROOKES & C?.

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^£^STAQ9 ’7f J . ViA "'- i ft by post.

LT

PERNS from Devonshire, ___

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Cornwall, and

— __ w __ .nat ruction book

making rockery, planting Ferns, 4e . with each 6s. order
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17 FRlZfli HOLLY HOCKS, 10*. ; 12 show

ltJ Carnations or Picotees. 4s.; 12 Pan*ies, fancy or show.
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GRATIS

MH

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hYTYfVVYTVYYTYVTTTTYrVTj)

DR. SCOiT’S ELECTRIC HAIR URUSH
/'ll!RES NEURALGIA, BILIOUS and NER-
VOU8 HEADACHE in FIVE MINUTES.

The Rev R. ANTRIM. Vicar of Blapton. Kings-
bridge. Suiuh Devon, writes: 'Feb 10. 1883-Your
DR. BOOTT’d ELECTRIC RaIR BRUSH is quite a
treasure. It has not only on red frequent NERVOUS
IIEADAOHEB, but, what I had no expectati >n of at
my advanced age, it has given mo a fresh Head of
Hair of the Natural Colour."

pUKfi8 DANDRUFF and DISEASES of the
80 ALP.

SCOTT’S ELECTRIC HAIR BRUSH—

with compass for testing the Electric Power-will be
forwarded post free to any part of ths Kingdom on
reoeipt of ife fid. (which will be returned if not as re-
grwserjU'd). payable to 0 B. HARNESS _ rail Mall

D R .

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T C. STEVENS, HOETIC^.

J. Bonimno, and NATURAL HWT08T !
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(iags freo except Hollyhocks, free on rai
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AND GARDEN REQUISITES.

PEA

TRELLISES.

0 ft. by 8 ft.... 2a. each.
0 ft. by 4 ft-8a. each.

6 ft. by 6 ft.... 4 a each.

Poultry FonoiDg-

C ft. high, 8s. Od. per yard.

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TARGE GARDEN.—HdUSE to LET;
«Ll~£28. B- " ..

____ , rent

£28. Beven rooms, well built, garden laid pnt and
partly stocked with fruit tre»s. 4o . oloee to Hoe Streot Bta»
tion.—Apply to Mr. GROUT (next door), Helena Road
Albert Road. Walthamstow.

W# IW. T.• 0, iw — —— ... ■ -~w~ -__ _, ^

klul Lhkt tlMU-'-J T> TU**»r^Wfcip«WlaI.i.

rLfcMOf Owm. MriruA MmMmm. “ U "TT 1 *- '*

loarT^l. at IS. >JM klttd ” C..«. « k

• la pnlM at lu Mnl I U.H.* I «mI4 mi Mjlktog. *

loajU iQhlij.*-IU»»»T g«M«, Laitdat.

Weekly, 4d. Monthly,

THE GARDEI

Of last week contains a Coloured Date o(

MAGNOLIA SOULANGEAKA
NIGBA.

And the following Article*, Notes, and Hhutrzb *j
Moon Flower
Muscari rupeitr*
Mushroom destroym

Abutilon venosum
Aoer rubrum
Andromeda floribunda
Anemone apennina
Anemones, Crown
Angnocuiu EUiai
Annuals, raising
Asparagus, canned
Auriculas for exhibition
Azalea Mr*. Holst
Kauhinla purpurea
Beam ana mice
Birds and crops
Bottom heat
Bouquet, fashionable
Brugir
Califoi

Narcissi, cUmstlc

Narcissus leetore

Nectarines
Notea from Bad® B*c«
Odontogioeanm,
Ophrya apifera
Orchide, pruning
Palm house, n?w
Peaches
Peas, Sweet
PenUtemon Mum)i- T
Pentsterooos, aecdlreg
Pen late rood

Phlox Ilr tiiWBi nfliil

Plant portraits
Polyanthuses
Prlmroaea
Primulas, Chinwe
Primulas, double
Rhododendrons
Roots peculisritia* ol
Rose IVvonlen*!*
Rose Lady M. Fttzalllu'
Roses all the year
Roses, duelled
Roses In March

Californian lake, a
CandoIlea tetraudra
Canna Ehemannl
Carnation Andalusia
Carnations, seedling
Carnations. Tree
'ftttleya lablata
Chrysanthemum inodrm.

Cblonodoxa LuciJito
Cinerarias, large
Clematis Indlvlsa
Cllanthus punlceua
Cornflower, the blue
Coronills glaucaa
Crocus imperiali
Cucumbers
Cyanophylluma
Cymbidlum ebumeura
Cyprlpedlum Curl id
DaflodU conference
Daffodils, double
Daffodils, the dwarf
Daffodils, Trumpet
Daffodil, the great
Daffodil, the Tenby
Dahlia excelsa
Dahlias from seed
Kcheverta agavoidea
Elder, the variegated
Erythrins Crista-gslli
Krythrouiums
Fern frond inaecta
Kerns, the best
Ficus elastics
Figs

Fig tree Insects
Forsyth ia suspense
Fruit prospects, 1884
Fruit trees, manuring
Gaultberia trlchophyllg
Grape culture
Heathi

Uyacinthui candlcani
Hydrangea T. Hogg
Iris, a pretty stove
Iris florentina
Lad I a grondli
Lawn weeds
Love-lies-bleeding
Magnolia Soulangeana
Mignonettes, new
tylgnonettei, old i

THE GARDEN, with a fine Coloured Plate oarhJJ^
4d.; Monthly Porta, la. fid.-Office, 87 Seotbso:,
Street, Strand, W.C._

Enterprising firms who wish the best jetarn*
invested in advertising should remember that
iag Ill nitrated * reaches a greater number thw
; ournal devoted to horticulture or rural affairi. Ij*
lation is more than double that of the whele of y
horticultural journals of the United Kingdom put tegv *
Eiperiuaoed advertiaere stAte that their

CHAMPAIGN

Roses, lam
Rudgea tnscrophjlb
Sc ilia sib tries
" Scripture Botir;
Snowdrop, the
hpinach

Strawberries, forew
Strawberries
Strawberry culturv
Streptocarpuz
Strophanthui BoIIvdx
T omatoes under zb‘»
Trees, N. Pacific KsUrkl
I Tritonia aurea
Tulips at Clifton
Urceelina aures
VaUotas

Vanda Sanderlsnz
Vine borders
Vine leaf warts
Vines bleeding
Vine weevils
Vriesis DuvslUnt
Water snails
Water taaki, line

ILLUSTRATE*?

Daffodil flowen
Daffodil .section of
Donner take, the
Narcissus maxima*
Narcissus min or
Narcissus nanui
j Narcissus minimal
Narcissus flower
Narcissus, section of

GAKDENING- ILLUSTRATED.

Vol. VI.

APRIL 19, 1884.

No. 267*

PLANNING AND PL1NT1NG OF SMALL
GARDENS.

X a periodical which professes to devote itself
o the improvements of small gardens, the re-
ommendations as to laying ont and planting
re not of a character likely to lead in that
lirechon. Nothing can be worse in a small plot
f ground than to cut it np into small beds,
he time at the di-posal of the occupier of a
mall garden is usually limited, and no arrange-
aeotcin be more injudicious than one which
equires a large portion of that time to be ex¬
tended upon such uninteresting labour as the
rimming of edges of turf, weeding and rolling
(walks, and clipping of trim edgiDgs. In a
mall garden the beds should be few and simple,
o more in number than is necessary to separate
lants requiring distinct cultivation- Where
ther than straight outlines are used, they should
>e simple curves easily kept in order, not circles,
'rail, or anything of that sort. Where the beds
aeefc turf, the edge should be hidden by plants
reaking the line as if the grass grew naturally
p to them, with here a Tropreolum or a Convol-
ulus trailing a little way over the turf, and
here a branch or two of Carnation or Rose, or
hryaanthemum resting on it.

In Planting,

he aim should be to combine a good display of
owera at most seasons with a picturesque
rouping of plants. All arrangements which
and to trimness, and what is often miscalled
eatneas and order, should be avoided. The
eatness and order aimed at should be those of
ature, namely, the true and beautiful order
•reduced by the free and untutored growth of
he plants themselves, so placed as to contrast
rith each other and display their characteristic
mantles to the best advantage. In a small plot
leasuring some 40 feet by 150 feet there is no
oom for a variety of arrangements. One simple
iea only should be attempted ; one continuous
/alk is sufficient; one large bed might be formed
t one end of the garden towards one side and
nother large bed at the other end towards the
ther side with a breadth of turf between the
wo beds. These beds might be somewhat of a
eg of mutton shape, running into narrow borders
cder the fences. Another good plan is to have
wo large beds next the house, then lawn ; then
continuous bed surrounding a large oval,
ircular, or square bed devoted to Roses or choice
orists’ flowers. The beds nearest the house
right be partly or wholly rockery. Now as to
oanagement and planting. Unless the soil is
oritively marshy, never be tempted to raise a
*ed a sixteenth of an inch above the general
evel. All beds should be flat, and better if
>elow the level of the walks and turf than above
t. Raised beds are impoverished by every
hower and over drained in dry weather ; nothing
squiring a rich soil thrives in them, and the soil
rom them is continually washed on to the walks
n heavy rains. In planting the beds avoid
nixing shrabs with the flowering plants. Never
mod what you would like to see growing
agether, you must be strictly guided by what
rill grow.

Beginners in Laying out a Garden
no often get hold of a labourer or a jobbing
gardener, and say to him, “ I shall have a Holly
msh here, and a Laurustinus there, and some
Rhododendrons here in this heap of clay, and a
ow of Laurels here, and plant these standard
Roses just in front of them, so that the dark
(roen Laurels may show np the flowers. Then
we will put these Wallflowers and Antirrhinums
in this day border, and these Pansies and Prim¬
rose* at the foot of this south wall where they
rill get plenty of snn, and we shall have a pretty
P*den.” Nature has nowhere been consulted.
Tbe plants are placed where they are wished to
to seen, and the whole is a total failure. First,
Mto shrubs, there is no room for many in a
nnall garden, and every shrub planted means a
ismber of desirable flowers left out and a
Wstriclion of the floral beauty of the garden
to avoid that plant flowering shrubs only, a
toonittinus or two, a bu9h of Rosemary, and
iHttle clump of Rhododendrons in a patch of

suitable soil, will be enough evergreens. If there
is room for a little group of small trees and
bushes, let them be Pink Hawthorn, a choice
Lilac or two, Laburnum, double-flowering Cherry,
Almond, Deutzia gracilis. Hydrangea panicu-
lata, Doable Guelder Rose, Spirrea Lindleyana,
and Blenheim Orange Apple, Ribes or Flower¬
ing Currant, Common Broom, Weigela rosea,
Cydonia japonica, Mock Orange (the floribunda
variety), Rosa alba, the old White Rose, the
Maiden's Blush, and the old Blush Cluster Rose.
These are all good useful flowering plants.
Fences may be covered with Ivy or, better, with
Creepers which are almost evergreen, as Loni-
cera brachypoda and Evergreen Roses, or with
berried shrubs, like Cotoneasters and Pyracantha.
Masses of evergreens in small gardens are a
total mistake. They make the place look fur¬
nished in winter, but dull in summer, as flower¬
ing plants do badly amongst them. All Roses
used in borders should be on their own roots.
The Chinas and Bourbons are the best to select
from, and those Perpetuals which lean to the
Tea and China Roses, such as La France and
General Jacqueminot.

In Arranging a Mixed Border
of plants in a small garden, the object should be
the production of masses and sheets of bloom in
the dwarf plants, and picturesque groups with
the larger plants. In doing this cultivation as
well as appearance must be studied. It will not
do, for instance, to intersperse Hepaticas, Christ¬
mas Roses, or Gentianella, which dislike disturb¬
ance, with Sweet Rockets and Delphiniums, which
like removal and change of soil, or Irises and
Lilies, which dislike manure, with Phloxes and
Tigridias, which are fond of it, or Pansies and
Primroses, to which strong liquid manure and
copioas waterings in summer are injurious, with
Roses, which require both.

Plants for Small Gardens.

A good, easily grown, and showy stock of
plants for a small garden would be the follow¬
ing :—Dwarf plants, more or les9 spreading—
Arabia albida variegata, Aubrietia Eyrei grandi-
flora, Alyssum saxatile compacts, Achillea claven-
nae, Achillea tomentosa, Corydalis lutea, Lina-
ria alpina, Veronica prostrata, Silene alpestris,
Sedum spurium. These prefer a light soil
and most will answer as rock plants.
Of less spreading habit are Oxalis floribunda
rosea, Gentianella acanlis, Armeria cephalotes
rubra, doable Daisies, and white and rose
dwarf Pinks. Patches may be made of Crocus,
Snowdrops, Scillas, and Anemone pulsatilla, so
arranged that later flowering, trailing plants
may fill the spaces left by them. Tulips may be
treated in the same way, but there should he no
attempt at what is known as spring beddiDg.
Nothing is worse for the best spring flowers than
to pull them np every year. The pnny bits of
Daisies, Arabis, Polyanthus, See., never show
what they are capable of if treated in that way.
Tulips and yellow Crocuses should be lifted, but
white and purple Crocuses, and all other spriDg
plants, should not be moved until they require
fresh soil and division.

Of taller but still dwarf plants a good stock of
Pinks is indispensable—not only Ascot, Mrs.
Sinkins, Anne Boleyn, Nellie Gwynne, and
others of that class, but the show varieties as
well. Next to these in importance are the dwarf
Irises, Iris pumila and Iris olbiensis. These are
scarcely known in small gardens. In shape and
habit they are the common German Iris in
miniature; but while the foliage is only from
6 inches to a foot high, the flowers are three-
fourths of the size of the German Iris, and last
much longer. The colours are white, yellow-
lavender, and various shades of blue and purple;
they flower in May, pumila being first, and the
other immediately succeeding. Equally valu¬
able are the large-flowered dwarf Evening Prim¬
roses, (Enothera acaulis, CE. taraxacifolia, and
(E. macrocarpa. Pansies are indispensable, and
one cannot have too many of them; they are so
easily raised from seed, and perpetuated by cut¬
tings. Other good dwarf plants are Mcrtensia
siberica, Campanula carpetica, C. turbinata, and
Lithospermum prostratum. Hardy herbaceous

perennials of 9 inches to a foot in height, suit¬
able for ordinary cultivation, are not over plenti¬
ful ; but this is not to be regretted, seeing that
there are many beautiful bulbous plants of that
height, and a whole host of the showiest annuals.
Many evergreen plants of taller growths also
have tnfts of foliage 6 inches or 7 inches high
when not in flower—Carnations and Sweet Wil¬
liams, for instance. Good showy plants from a
foot to 2 feet high are Dictamnus fraxinella,
Linum luteum, Corydalis nobilia, Centanrea
raontana, Monarda didyma, Anemone sylvestris,
Papaver nudicaule, Aquilegia Skinneri, A. caeru-
lea, Genm coccineum plenum, Funkias of seve¬
ral kinds, Statice latifolia, Sedum spectabile,
Centranthus ruber, Ranunculus aconitifolius
plenus, Achillea ptarmica fl.-pl., Spiraea filipen-
dula fl.-pl, early-flowering Chrysanthemums of
many kinds, florists’ Pentstemons—many showy
varieties, dwarf Antirrhinums, Lychnis dioica
fl.-pl., and many.

Annuals

About 2 feet to 3 feet high are Aquilegia chry-
sautha, and the common Columbine, German,
English, and Spanish Iris, Aster Amellus, Bess a -
rabicus, several Delphiniums, tall Antirrhinums,
Campanula persicifolia, Campanula glomerata,
Senecio pulcher, Stokesia cyanea. Spiraea palma-
ta, Spirtea venusta, Spiraea Aruncus, Anemone
japonica, Oriental Poppies, Hemerocallis or Day
Lilies of several kinds, several hardy Lilies,
Phloxes, tall plants 3 feet and upwards. The
taller Delphiniums. Verbascum Chaiexi, Holly¬
hocks, perennial Sunflowers, Pent-temon barba-
tus Torreyi, Lupinusarboreus, and L. polyphyllus,
Achillea Eupatorium, Pyretbrum uliginosum,
Harpalium rigidum, Sparaxis pulcherrima. With
these may be associa’ed tall Foxgloves and Cam¬
panula pyramidalis. Plants with thin foliage, like
English and Spanish Iris, Sisy rinebiump, Tigridias,
Gladioli, and Sparaxia pulcherrima can be
placed among the dwarf plants, and plants like
Pyrethrum8, which carry their flowers singly on
stems with little foliage, can be treated in the
same way. Anemones, Scillas, Ranunculus,
Tulips, Daffodils, and other bnlbous plants
should be used in plenty, in groups so arranged
as to be hidden by later flowering plants.

In planting, the first thing is to place the
shrubs and trees. In doing that keep in mind
the size to which they will grow, and plant at a
suitable distance so that no thinning out will be
required, and also bear in mind the amount of
shade which they will give. Remember that
trees and shrubs require nonrishment,and that if
that is not provided where they are planted they
will reach out roots and rob plants a long way
off. The roots of the trees forming the great
avenue in Kensington gardens almost meet in the
middle of it. I have had quite small trees planted
in barren soil stretch out 25 feet from their
tranks. The ground for shrubs should be well
dag at least two spits deep, and richly manured
before planting. After the trees are placed,
Rhododendrons are, perhaps, the next considera¬
tion. These should be planted in a patch of
peat or turf, and the roots mixed with fine
gravel and sand. A patch of these is a great
embellishment in itself, as properly planted and
attended to they form an evergreen mass,and hardy
Azaleas, Kalmias, Heaths, and peat-loving Lilies
can be mixed with them, forming a beautiful
little region in a small plot. After these place
those plants which require high cultivation. Roses,
Delphiniums, Phloxes, Rockets, Stocks, Asters,
Pentstemons, and Zinnias. These will all stand
liquid manure and require well-maDured ground.
The rest of the borders can be filled with the
general stock of plants. A sandy patch,
and a rockery are, however, useful additions.
Throughout the planting there should be no
striping or planting in lines parallel to the edges
of beds. Plant jast close to the edge of the
beds a few single plants of distinct character
which retain their foliage a long while; these
may be brought quite to the verge of turf so as
to partly overhang it, bat should just touch the
margin next walks. The Japan Anemones are
capital plants for this purpose next turf. They
i are springing up now and retain their beauty
I until frost. They are best in a slightly shady

IVERSITY OF ILLINOIS
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[April 19*1

r>6

situation. Equally good are the Japanese
vSpi : »ja (Spiraea palmata), Funkia Sieboldi,
Geum coxllneinn plenum, the Acanthuses,
Papaver bracteatum, and E 'yngiom ameth}-
stinum. After these plants are placed, plant the
taller perennials singly or in small gro ips, say
a single Hollyhock, or a grrip of three Del¬
phiniums Campanulas, or Ph’oxes, then those

Toppy Anemone (A. corona* ia).

of medium height, some singly, and some in
little groups, closer together at ihe back of the
border than towards the front, but leaving
plenty of space between all the groups. Lastly,
till the vacant spaces with dwarf plants. Atten¬
tion should be paid to the seasons of dowering
of the different things so as to avoid blanks and
unsightly patches. Early-flowering tall plants
may be hidden by later-flowering ones, and
spaces occupied by spring flowering bulbs which
disappear during summer can be hidden by
annuals and trailers, Primroses, Auriculas, Ane¬
mones, Polyanthuses, Primulas, and similar
plants, which are best shaded from the summer
sun, can be planted in the shade of the trees,
but not under them.

In a small garden where there is only room
for one or two of each of the large-leaved plants
not much can bedone in the way of strikingly con¬
trasted groups, but plants of bold leafage, such
as the Acanthuses, large-leaved Saxifrages, and
Funkias, can be used with advantage to contrast
with plants of smaller foliage; plants with sword-
shaped leaves like the Irises, Gladioli, and Day
Lilies can also be used in the same way. These
may spring from carpeting plants. The more
easily-grown Lilies can be used in the same way ;
the peat-loving kinds should be planted among
the Rhododendrons. Small gardens usually have
a variety of exposures and positions. In sunny
sheltered places plant the earlier-flowering Pom-
pones and Chrysanthemums, such as La Petite
Marie, Aigle d’Or, and the Trevennas and Elaine,
I)r. Sharp, Christine and Golden Christine,
Beverley and Golden Beverley, and Mrs. Forsyth.
In similar places plant the Agapanthus and
Alstrccmeiias. In bordersgettingonly the morning
sun, Spirreis, Dielytra spectabilis, Pyrethrums,
and all plants which like partial shade will do.
Globe flowers are 6bowy early summer flowerR
lor such positions if the soil is a Buttercup soil
—rich and moist. A bieezy open part of a
border or bed in light rich soil is just the place
for Carnations, and a limey patch will suit for
Wallflowers, Stocks, and Antiirhinums.

A Good Edging for Beds
next walks is a band of rockery covered with
rock plants; there the beautiful spring-spreading
and trailing Phloxes will grow to perfection.
Sameness from year to year can l>e avoided by
using annuals, biennials, and half-hardy bulbs;
by uring these the spring-flowering bulbs can be
made use of in quantity, and every year can show
a different arrangement of some parts of the
garden. Dahlias and Chrysanthemums are so
cheap in the Rpriftg that thcyTmay be almost

Digitized by FjO Q It

treated as annuals, and thrown away every
autumn where only a few are wanted.

Climbers should be plentifully used in small
gardens, and jadiciously used they take the
stiff oe*s and formality of everything. Not only
can the shrubby climbers be used to cover walls
and trellises, but the herbaceous ones can be
used in many pretty ways. The rustic trellis
of the cottage garden made of stout branches
is preferable to the stiff wire arches, &c., used
in more pretentious places. Groups of poles,
like short hop poles, are useful for Convolvulus,
Everlasting Pea, Tropieolums, and Clematis;
Honeysuckles and Ayrshire Roses will scramble
over trees and bushes. A beginner must not
expect to attain to a pretty garden all at once,
things must have time to grow, and a few
failures must be looked for to bpgin with, but if
an amateur once gets the right idea into his
head, and gets hold of the proper thing to aim
at, every year will show an improvement ; he
will be able to add little touches here and im¬
provements there, until his garden become* a
series of little pictures of floral beauty. Only
bear in mind that there must be no training of
Creepers trimly and evenly on walls like so
many fruit trees, no clipping of shrubs into
round bunchy forms; things may be judiciously
thinned out, but their natural and free-growing
outlines must not be destroyed. There must be
no recurrence of the same plants at regular
intervals, no formal edgings to beds, and no
geometric forms of beds. Pincushion beds and
standard Roses are as barbarous as war paint
and tatooing. Everything must be natural, and
the owner of the garden, instead of trying to
twist the plants into some preconceived notion
of carpet effects in colour, should endeavour to
enjoy such beauty as is put into the plants
themselves by the creator of them. J. D.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

NOTES ON ANEMONES.

For small gardens there are no plants moie
suitable, with a few exceptions, than the

Common Wood Anemone (A. nemerosa).

different species of Anemone ; in large ones none
are more precious, but some are by no means so
well known as they deserve to be, while one or
two have troublesome propensities which are
worth putting on record, therefore a few notes
from past experience of some of the best in

cultivation may be of use. There are fewgardrt!
in Great Britain where one or more represttta
tives of the family may not be found, bat
Ireland has, of late, been carrying eff the pale
for the best Anemone?, and we look for all the
cultural hints we can get from our neighbour*
of the Green Isle. My own garden beirg gnb-
ject to “all the airts the wind can blaw," should
be and is an appropriate home for the Wind¬
flower, so named because the greater number of
the species grow in high and exposed situation,
which may be an encouragement to others ia
similar circumstance®, for only one or two hare
failed to do well. Amongst the seventy or cere
species known to cultivation, though some are
less brilliant than other?, there are few which dj
notjjossess some special good quality by wli h

J 11.

mmi

Japan Anemone (A. japonic*).

they commend themselves to the good grace? of J
the gardener, and there are few weeks at anj
season of the year in which one or other of tbeo
is not ready to lend its charm to a sunny smilirg
day. Happily the interpretation of Windflower,
because the flowers are easily blown to piece*,
as given by one writer, does not hold good, faji
March winds blow strong and cold, yet a boa*
of kinds open their bright stars in the storrjjf
month without let or hindrance. Windflove*
may be grouped naturally under three dirisioulf
of which that containing our own

Wild Wood Anemone
is by far the largest. These are character^
by their flowers being borne singly and not I
umbels, and by their oval seed cases, which v
often, but not always, surrounded with a wool!
flock. The second division includes those whic
have shaggy, silky flowers, with long, beardr
seed cases, ot which our native Pasque Flower
the representative, while the third compri^
such as have their flowers in bunches or umbel
of which the beautiful autumnal Japan AnemoB
is the fairest type. The coppices being at«
present time full of the white stars of one oft
most graceful of all the tribe, we are naturi
led to take first some of the cultivated fori
which are to be found in gardens. Of d#
Wood Anemones (A. nemorosa), none is
worthy of culture than the large blue-flow^
variety know'n as A Robinsoniara, orsometiS |
as A. nemorosa cccrulea. This is, in fact, a «
plant very rarely, or rather very locally, to be it
with, but it has now been grown in garden#!
some years, having been first brought in to pul
notice by the founder of Gardening
trated, in compliment to whom this ck
plant was named. It flowers a little later tl
the Wood Anemone, generally in April, ai
when open in the sunshine the delicate shace
blue on the inner side of its petals is so beanti (
in contrast to the golden boss of its stame
that no plant lover should be without this r
wildliDg It increases pretty freely by dinfl
and is none the worse for lifting once a yeari
replanting at once a, Httljs deeper after the lei

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

April 19, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

67

live withered. The old-fashioned double Wood
nemone with pure milk-white flowers is a
lartning little species, which one wonders not
> see everywhere, fringing the margins of wild
tlks and shrubbery borders, yet it is only here
ad there in farmhouse gardens, or perchance
ngerlng on in memory of olden days, that one
leeta with it. Another form not often grown is
>e green-fringed Windflower (A. nemorosa
racteata). This was kindly sent me, amongst

as it should be.

It is a native of central rejoice in the richness of its purple and scarlet,
and southern Europe, and though the different and of late we have been learning to grown our
varieties are neither so large flowered nor so Anemones, single and double, by a better method,
brilliant as some others, yet its bright starry The first point is to get a good strain of seed,
flowers open so cheerily with the first sunny the next to raise new plants every year to t« ke
spring days that it holds its own amongst its the place of those which wear out, or are net
more showy kindred. The most common shade worth keeping. Too much pains can scarcely be
of colour is a soft rosy purple, but in this species taken with these lovely flowers, and a vigorous
many tints of red and violet are to be found, system of selection should be continually carried
surrounding a white eye, which contrasts well on, so that all inferior plants may be ducaidec.
with the dark central column of stamens. One Scarlet Anemones of this species, single ai d
of the prettiest forms I have is a bright salmon- double, of a good strain, are amongst tie
pink, and orie of the rarest to meet with is a grandest flowers that can adorn a garden, but
pure white variety, which is worth some trouble it is only by such careful selection and cultivj -
to obtain. Closely allied to the last, but much lion that a good stock can be kept up. Purple
more splendid, is the scarlet Windflower (A. ful- and intermediate shades are much more easily
gens) which is perhaps unrivalled in its gor- grown. They are not very particular as to soi',
geous beauty, and has become of late years one but a good surface dressing is never thrown
of the most popular of spring flowers, having away upon them. The seed, being very woolly,
come to us from the south of France. There is is difficult to sow unless it is well rubbed wit h
some difference of opinion as to its right treat- some dry silver sand between the hands and so
inent which depends greatly on the nature of the separated. It should be sown in boxes as thirly
soil in which it is grown. In dampsituations, where as possible as soon as it is ripe—a plan rather
the ground holds moisture, it is safer, doubtless, to be preferred with choice seed to sowing in
to take up the tubers when they go to rest, the border. Seedlings, when large enough,
storing them in sand and replanting in the pricked out into prepared beds and well caiid
aatumn; but, wherever it is possible, I believe for, will bloom within a jear from the time if
the better plan is to leave the roots undisturbed sowing and well repay the trouble. If only fer
for several years, lifting only when necessary their exceeding value as cut flowers, these Am-
for purposes of increase. The best time for rnones should be largely grown in every garden,
doing this is, in my opinion, after the year’s and for this purpose should be cut in the bud
growth is completed, and just before the leaves state just before they are ready to open. Anotbi r

Doubl* Poppy Anemone (A. coronaria flore-pleno.

there, a good many years ago by the late Rev.

0. Nelson, and it was not until it became
horoaghly established in a large clump that it
howed its true beauty, an instance which has
ccurred to me more than once of forming a
iasty and adverse judgment with regard to a
>lant which there has been occasion later to
everee. It is a very distinct semi-double
ariety, and the tinge of purple-blue in the
ncircling fringe of the involucre is very effective.
The Three-leaved Windflower
(A. TRI FOLIA)

lay be described as a dwarf form of the ordi-
ary Wood Anemone which is found In the Tyrol,
nd is, perhaps, not distinct enough from it to
•e worth valuable space in a small garden. Of
oreign species of similar habit, there are two
rhich deserve special mention. The first of
beso is the Winter Anemone (A. blanda), native
o the Taurus mountains, which opens its bright
ky-blae flowers with the very first genial days
f the year. It is closely allied to, though quite
istinct from, the later flowering Italian species
A. apennina), a better known plant which has
'*€n naturalised in many English woods, and
rtiich is now becoming so familiar in our
ardens as to need little description. A word
oay be said, however, about their twiggy roots,
rhich often work out of the ground during the
ammer, and are apt when growing in a border
o be gathered np and thrown away as worthless
lead sticks. It is well on this account to lift
hem every year or two, where the stock is not
wtc, for division, and also to lay them in a
itUe deeper, as it may be noticed that when
rvcrcrowded the flowers are smaller and fewer,
iy planting them in different aspects, the
lowering season may be greatly prolonged. Both
species answer extremely well when grown
,1 pota for the unheated greenhouse, where,
inder the shelter of glass, they open their
lowers long before their neighbours in the open
found. For this purpose, they should be given
*e protection of a frame, from which the glass
ioold be raised and as much air as possible
J Tea on every fine day. Very similar in habit
Jd general appearance to the two last, but with
Jlght yellow flower?, is the South European
wUercup Windflower (A. ranucculoides),
faking a charming companion for all the pre-
Jdiog, and requiring much the same treat-
fcwt, though it is reputed to be more tender. I
if® met with this species growing wild as far
i *11* the neighbourhood of Brussels, and
, only had experience of it in the garden on
^Iky soil, where it flourishes, but it is said
>dobadly on clay. As belonging to the same
jtarical division, wo may take next in order
^coarmieg

Starry Windflower (A. stkllata),
though an old favourite loDg in cnltiva-

Alpine Anemone (A. alpina).

that season, whereas a move at the resting | ingin the bud, whence its name,and is of ten found

period is apt to induce decay. C___‘—

of another species,

The Peacock Anemone (a. pavonina),
may be seen at this season in Covent Garden,
and are sent over from the South of France,
is rather doubtful whether this is a distinct
species, or merely a double variety of the Scarlet
Windflower. "

Great numbers | to bloom in autumn as well as in tbe spring. A
remedy may perhaps be possible, as I have
noticed that when its roots arc by necessity
cramped for room it is more free and produces
■ larger flowers than when allowel to ramble,

I otherwise it runs entirely to leaf. The same ac¬
cusation cannot be brought against the Cycla¬
men-leaved Windflower (A. palmata) a very
beautiful species, native of the warmer climates
of Algiers and the European shores of the
Mediterranean, and which does not take kindly
to evory garden. Of this there are two good
forms — golden-yellow and creamy-white—but
its cultivation should not be attempted by tbe
inexperienced. Those who do should note that
it is found in hnmid places. There are several
fine European species of

The Pasque Flower

section of Anemones, but that most easily grown
which used to be known by the pretty old name in our borders is merely a cultivated form of
of the Garland Windflower, is perhaps the mo9t the wild A. Pulsatilla, which is locally found in
familiar of our hardy perennials, and was never some abundance on chalky pastures and wind-
banished entirely from our gardens, even when swept downs. It is an interesting plant in its
the tide of fashion set against the good old wild state, but when cultivated in kindly soil,
border plants. The florist used to make it a this Eister Windflower is most beautiful both in
speciality, but, for reasons unknown, does so no its finely cut dark green foliage and its large
^longer. To-day a different race of gardeners silky flowers of purple and gold. This peeler.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Be that as it may, it is almost im¬
possible to get the same brilliant colour in home¬
grown flowers that is found in imported ones,
for they quickly deteriorate, which is, happily,
not the case with A. fulgens ; but the peculiar
shade of dull crimson which is assumed by the
Peacock Anemone in our colder climate, and its
very distinct form, render it a species by no
means to be left out of a good collection, though
many people may consider it worthless.

Tite Poppy Anemone (A. coronaria),

08

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[April 19 ll

should be raised by seed, as it neither divides
nor transplants well, and the clumps should be
left undisturbed, receiving only a yearly top¬
dressing of fresh soil. In my experience it is not
a very Jong-lived perennial, and care should be
taken to keep up a stock of young plants. There
is a white variety, but I have not been fortunate
enough to meet with it. To this class belong
Haller’s Windflower (A. Halleri), and the rare
A. vernalis, a beautiful alpine plant, butditlicult
to manage and not often found in gardens. The
alpine Anemone (A alpina),which may beplaced
in the same group, is a very beautiful and dis¬
tinct tall growing species which I have seen
chiefly in the gardens of others, since it has re¬
fused as yet to grow in my own ; yet it is not
r ;ckoned a difficult plant to grow in any fairly
good soil. There are two varieties, the type
having large white flowers tinged outside with
purple, while in the other (A. sulphurea) as its
Lame implies, the flowers are lemon-yellow.
Two or three good species belong to the umbel¬
late section, e y., A. narcissi flora, which is well
worth growing, but none are so beautiful as the
well-known

Autumn-floweri no Japan Anemone,
especially the white variety, Honorine Jobert. It
is hard to have to say a word against so good a
plant, but before introducing it into a small gar¬
den it is necessary to remember that it spreads
rapidly and chokes everything of less vigorous
growth that comes in its way. All it asks in
the way of culture is to be let alone in mode¬
rately good soil, and for two months in the
autumn there is no end to its lovely white
blossoms. The original Japan Anemone, with
purplish-red flowers, is not worth growing beside
its white sister, but there is a pale pink hybrid
which is almost as good as the white form, and
which should be its companion wherever it is
possible to accommodate it. This pink hybrid is
much less rampant than either of the others. I
have grown many more Windflowers than those
enumerated above, but these include the best
species, and such as can scarcely fail to please
the cultivator who gives them a fair trial.

K. L. D.

Crown Anemones.— This is the proper
time to sow seeds of the Crown or Poppy Wind¬
flower for blooming during next autumn, winter,
and spring. The great point is to be sure of
good seed, for unless seed of a good strain is
obtained as a commencement, time, land, and
energy are in a manner thrown away. Anemones
are gross feeders, and before sowing the seed
we dig in cow manure and otherwise prepare
the bed as if for sowing Onions or Lettuces.
The seed soon germinates if not sown too
deeply. The best plan is to mix the cottony
seeds with sand and sow on the surface of a
finely raked bed, covering the seeds afterwards
with a sifting of fine soil the eighth of an inch
or so in thickness. After germination thin out
the seedlings to 3 inches apart, and give good
soakings of liquid cow manure in dry weather.
So treated, a bed or two of Windflowers forms
one of the best features of a garden of hardy
blossoms during the dullest part of the year.
— W.

Gharden screens.— A capital screen may
be made as follows: Fix a good post the re¬
quired height at each end of the space to be shut
out, then from their tops strain a strong galva¬
nised wire, also perhaps another half-way down
if a rapid covering or a high screen is wanted. Now
plant strong plants of Virginian Creeper at the
bottom, 12 feet apart, and train up to the top. The
shoots will sometimes run along the wires of
their own accord, but if not, a very little trouble
will cause them to do so; then they will hang
down delightfully, swinging to and fro with the
wind, and getting thicker and thicker every
year. If in a conspicuous position, plant alter¬
nately with the Virginian Creeper, Clematis
Jackraanni or lanuginosa. These, running
wildly through the mass of Virginian Creeper,
with their lovely flowers peeping out here and
there, will soon form a sight worth looking at.

D.elytra out-of-door3.— To prove the
truth of the assertion that ic is the late spring
frosts that destroy the beauty of the early flower¬
ing plant, Dielytra spectabilis, I enclose a
branch gathered from a plant which ha* been in
’he open garden all the winter, on B instead
Dawns, one of JSur'bleak SurreylhiUs. This un-

Digitizes I: CjOuylC

exceptionally fine season, and absence of frost,
has caused it to be in flower fully six weeks
earlier than usual, and the unchecked rapidity
of its growth has been most remarkable. On
March 8th it was only 5 inches in height, and
at this present time, April 5th, it is over 2 feet
and flowering profusely. Next to it, Eccremo-
carpus scaber is commencing to flower. I for¬
ward a spray with this. They have only the
protection of a low Oak fence.— Emily Cul-
verhouse. [The Dielytra sent was very strong
and vigorous, and the Eccremocarpus was of a
fine colour.— Ed ]

Show Pansies.— As my reply to “ Uneasy
Novice,’’ Gardening of March 22, may be mis¬
understood, I might say, like Mr. Shepperson,
that I thought it quite unnecessary to say that
the two top petals in a show Pansy should not
be belted, but should be of one colour, viz , the
same as the belting of the three lower petals. I
might have put it plainer by saying that all those
petals requiring to be belted (the three lower
petals) should have an unbroken belting, as any
imperfection in this respect would certainly dis¬
qualify a stand in competition. To obtain a
perfect belting it is of the utmost importance
that the blooms should be shaded from the hot
summer sun. I have taken a large number of
prizes for Pansies, and can therefore speak from
experience.—It. M., Shadrvell.

11256.— Dielytra speotabllis —It does
seem strange lhat a plant which comes from
the coldest part of Europe should fall a victim
to our English spring, but you must bear in
mind that there are plenty of very hardy plants
which get injured when they commence to grow ;
thus we often see the budding foliage of the
“brave old Oak” and the almost equally hardy
Chestnut terribly crippled by May frosts, and
does not the bloom of all hardy fruits get cut
off wholesale very frequently 1 But the Dielytra,
like many other hardy flowers grown in this
country, comes from a land where a long
period of complete rest is followed by a genial
spring, the one follows ju9t as closely on the
heels of the other as darkness does on daylight
in the tropics. No sooner does the snow melt
than vegetation leaps, as it were, into activity,
and Violets, Primroses, and other things which
have been a9 buried treasures burst into bloom
in a few days. Beautiful as is this plant, I
would never advise its being planted in the
open unless in a very i-h-dtered situation, such
as at the foot of a wall, or, better still, in the
angle formed by two walls, and where no east
or north winds ome. In the open border it
does not come to perfection more than once in
a decade, the tender shoots are as susceptible of
frost as blanched Seakale, and if they get
“ touched ” when once fairly on their way up¬
wards they never attain to any strength. The
fact is Dielytra spectabilis belongs to that class
of plants which are hardy, but not outdoor, and
like Spirma japonica, it is a fine greenhouse
ornament, being perfectly happy with mere pro¬
tection from spring frosts and biting winds. I
have seen plants 6 feet through grown in tubs
in a cold house, and they were pictures of floral
beauty. When in the open they would have
presented a most woe-begone aspect. Last
spring was for the first time in ten years
favourable to this plant, and I saw some really
good specimens in the sheltered garden of a
friend who, however, appears to entertain no
friendly sentiment towards a plant which has
too often proved more a source of disappoint¬
ment than of pleasure.— Eyfleet.

[ 11087.— Sowing- Anemone seed.— The

question is asked when Anemone seed should be
sown. I prefer the latter end of April or the
beginning of May, and I have been very suc¬
cessful in getting a good crop by sowing my
seed just at this time. I am more familiar with
Anemone coronaria (the Poppy Anemone) than
any other sort, and I sow fresh beds yearly. I
strongly advise “ F. S." to sow the seed in the
open ground in preference to raising it in frames,
though with care they can be brought to per¬
fection in either way. Why I dislike to raise the
seed under glass is that just when you want
to transplant from pans or boxes to the open
ground the weather is at its hottest, and nothing
is more injurious to the Anemone while in a
growing state than to allow it to get dry. The
situation should be thoroughly drained and open
to the south. Any common, moderately light,
loamy soil suits the Anemone. If it is low and

swampy with a wet clay subsoil, drainii
then absolutely necessary. I do not ajpn
digging in manure for a seed bed. Afier I
dug the ground over to a suitable depth and 1
it for a day to get in good order, tread it,
then rake and level it as much as poseil
Draw very shallow drills 3 inches wide and 1
apart, then sow the seed moderately tl
Anemone seeds require to be mixed with i
sharp sand to separate them and make it
difficult to sow. As Anemone seed is genei
rather long in germinating, water must
applied through a very fine-rosed waterieg-
Immediately the plants are visible, shading
indispensable, also watering is very benefit
throughout the summer. It is of great import
to keep the bed free from weeds while inayoi
state. After they have finished blooming ;
lost all their foliage and root-hold, ihe roots
then at rest. This probably takes place in J
As to the accurate time no one can state,
seasons rule this. But when they are at r
then is the time to lift all tbe roots and
them away in sand.to keep them from shriveUicj
If necessary to make the soil for Anemone
take maiden loam from the surface of a pasta
and to every load of this add one of well-decc;
posed cow manure and half a load of go-]
sharp sand. In mixing soil for Anemones, r
of great importance not to use any manure, oi
that which is thoroughly decomposed. Aft
the bed has been properly pulveiised and
for a few days to settle, plant the roots aga
at once in rows 1 foot apart and 6 inches f:
plant to plant. When this is completed, noth; „
more can be done except keeping tbe ground fra
from weeds.—A. Felgate, Uurhill

11264.- Pansies for spring bedding -
To get good plants for early flowering cuturgi
should be put in early in July. Do not tilt
the blooming shoots, but rather the young slen¬
der ones which spring from the crown, and ,
sert them in light sandy soil in a shady border
Plant them out in October and they will blows
well in spring. But the finest display is froa
two-year-old plants, and if they are cut over and
planted on a good piece of ground for the sun¬
nier they will make a grand display the follow¬
ing year.—J. C. B.

11SS3. — Carnations deteriorating. - If r*
planted Carnation pipings in jour garden they vosll
grow Carnations, not Pinks. There is no doubt that tk
pipings you put in were from white Pinks in tbe fen*
place_J. Douglas.

INDOOR PLANTS;

Cinerarias. —There can be no doubt fiat
the easiest way to obtain a good display off
Cinerarias is to grow seedlmgs, and the aeedJi
may be sown between the months of April and
July in order to secure a succession of blooms.
We generally sow the seeds from which we grt
our earliest plants in a shady part of a botbec,
the heat of which is nearly spent. They speedily
vegetate, and when the young plants are large
enough to handle they may be pricked out, abost
six or nine of them in a 3 inch pot, still keepirg
them in a frame where they are not exposed to
the direct rays of the sun. In a little while
they are potted off singly in small pots, pottirg
on as required. They will flower in 6-icch or
8 -inch pots about Christmas, earlier or later a
the case may be. The later sowings requin (
much the same treatment. Many are not award ,
that the Cineraria may be grown from offset ,
from the main stem ; these are thrown out aftei
flowering is over close to the base, and they may ,
be removed with a portion of roots attached tj j
them. Two or three of them may be plants
round the sides of small pots, and as tbe pm- |
cess of propagation will not take place until |
about midsummer, the best position for da
plants would be under hand-glasses behind*
north wall, where they will take hold of iw
fresh soil slowly, but surely, and make go*
stout plants before tbe dark days of the l l!<
autumn months set in, when they should be re
moved to a cool pit or greenhouse, and be treats
the same as seedlings. Good useful decora 0 ^
plants may be grown and flowered wellin6-ind
pots. Large specimens adapted for exhibition a
other purposes may be flowered in 8-ioch oi
flinch pots. Specimens 2 feet across may l*
grown, a,nd even larger than that, in stu'h P otl
if pains are taken to tie the flowering stem!
dift. Weak manure water may be used untt

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

pril 19, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

CD

lowers are open ; this gives substance and
coloar to the dowers.

HARDT FRIMROSES IN FOT9.
plant is more charming in early spring
a well-grown Primrose in a pot in asitting-
» or greenhouse. All the hardy kinds will
this treatment, bat the one here illustrated
specially adapted for the purpose. It is
d Harbinger, and was sent to us by Mr. Gil-
,of Burghley. In order to grow, Primroses
ils well, they should be planted out in good
daring the summer, and in autumn they may
if ted with good balls of earth and potted. A
I frame or greenhouse is the best place for
n. and the atmosphere around them must be
- moist, or green fly will soon attack them.

Wallflowers ia pots. —These well repay
little trouble which they entail in order to
e them in bloom in February and March.

up to May, potting them on as they require it.
Tbe plants ought to be ready to go into their
dowering pots about the last week in May or
early in June, and as soon as they are potted let
them be plunged half the depth of the pots in
the open ground. Place some soot under the
pots to keep out worms. Nine-inch pots are the
best for Pompones, and ll-inch ones for the
large-flowering Chrysanthemums.—J. D. E.

1134 —Candle plant (Cicalia articulata)
—This requires rather peculiar treatment to
bloom it well. Keep it constantly in a light
cool situation where it gets plenty of sun, and
about the beginning or middle of July, shake
away all the old soil and repot in sandy loam, |
using well-drained pots. Four-inch pots are
best, and these will hold from six to eight stems,
which at that time will be leafless. If the stem 4
have more than two joints they can be separated,
if otherwise, the plaut would be too tall, and the
upper joints will soon strike root if inserted in
sandy soil. After potting, water very mode-

Usually the flowers are self-fertilising, but when
they open in cold dull wealher, we dust the atig-
matic portion of the flowers with pollen from the
anthers — J. Douglas.

11344.— Syringing Azaleas —They must
not be syringed when in bloom, but as soon as
the blooms are removed give them a thorough
washing with the syringe, and as they begin
immediately to make their growth, the syring¬
ing may be continued daily until the flower-buds
are set. During the time of making their
growth the plants require a high temperature,
with plenty of moisture in the atmosphere and
to be shaded from bright sunshine. When they
are grown under these circumstances, it is as
well to syringe twice a day.—J. D. E.

11332. — Arum Lilies witn email
flowers—There is no difference in the varieties.
The different systems of culture are the cause
of the large and small flowers being produced.
Rich compost is required for the plants to grow
in. About the end of May it is a good plan to

ieir fragrance is much appreciated, and when
table kinds are grown they are useful either
r conservatory or house decoration. Harbinger
d Kelvoir Castle are the kinds grown here.
>eir seed is sown in prepared beds outride at
e end of May, and as soon as the plants are
^ enough we plant them out in an open
*ce of ground faciDg the west, where they
sotne strong bosby plants with numerous side-
o°*4—a great advantage. If sown later than

• time named they do not make side-shoots of
9 *-rvice for blooming. Early in October
*1 are taken up and potted in 6-tnch or 8 inch

in r -cb soil. They are then placed in cold
if at hand; if not, then nnder a north
where, if kept moist overhead, they soon
^ver from the check sustained through lift-
7 Towards the end of the month I movo
into a cool house, give them plenty of air,

• l-qnid manure occasionally, and early in
niary they commence to bloom.—E. M.

-Chrysanthemums for green-
'Juae-Yoti should grow the plants under,
‘Vta. that can be reraoved'm line woe

DigitizsdtvT

rately, and sprinkle twice a day in hot weather,
and by September young leaves will appear.
Give more water when the pots begin to fill
with roots and growth is being freely made, and
expose to the full sun, giving plenty of air night
and day. This will cause a strong leaf develop¬
ment, and if the plants are wintered in a cool
house or room they will bloom about Christmas.
—J. C B.

plant them out in trenches, in the same way
and with as much manure under the roots as
Celery. Supply them with plenty of water
through the summer. About the end of Sep¬
tember dig them up, and repot in soil composed
of a fourth part of decayed stable manure.
Reduce the plants to single crowns, and you
will not after this complain of the flowers being
small.—J. D. E.

11324.— Treatment of Orange trees.—
Trees of the kind yon allude to are reared on the
Continent; and the black peat soil has no lasting
properties in it. The best potting soil for
Orange trees is good fibrous loam, to which has
been added crushed bones in the proportion of
a quart to a bushel of loam and as much char¬
coal broken up should be added. Why not grow
the Tangerien instead of the Otaheite 7 The first
named is quite as ornamental as tbe other, and
if you can afford it some extra heat during the
summer months you will obtain most delicious
Oranges ripe in September, almost bursting the
skin with their fulness of juice. Indeed, I have
" to withhold water owing to this tendency.

r

11340 — The Clematis In pots— They
can be grown in large pots very satisfactorily
in the conservatory. The finer varieties of the
C. patens type are best adapted for pot cultnre,
and they flower in June. Yon should also grow
the Lapageria rosea and alba, the finest of all
greenhouse climbers, to flower after the Clema¬
tises are over, in July, August and September.

—J. D. E.

11330 — Orange tree losing its leaves

—This is caused by something being wroDg
with the atmesphere of the house, or the roots
may be in a bad state. the first you yourself
would be best able to say, as other plants in the
same house t?o|old also beTnjarwF. I have*seen £.T

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

the leaves drop from the effects of too much
water caused by lack of drainage. If the tree
should get too dry, the sudden effects of too
much water would also be injurious. The bast
thing for you to do now would be to pick off the
Oranges, and repot the tree very carefully, after
removing a considerable portion of the old soil
from the roots.—J. D. E.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.
Glaashouaes.

In the Greenhouse everything grows apace,
and constant attention is now an absolute
necessity. Cinerarias should now make a fine
show. Shade from hot sun will greatly benefit
the plants, as well as prolong the bloom. Above
all, keep aphis well under. The simplest way is
to have a rather deep frame or pit set apart for
the purpose, with a few shelves for the plants to
stand on, so as to allow the smoke to get all
round them. When a plant, or a few plants, are
seen to be getting infested, remove them here,
shut up closely, and fumigate gently but
thoroughly. Calceolaiia9 are showing bloom
also, and must be kept cool and clean; for these
as well as the Cinerarias a little shade is far
preferable to excessive watering on hot, dry days.
Pot off young struck Fuchsias, and grow them
on quickly in a warm, moist, and rather shady
house or pit. If sprinkled overhead three or
four times a day in bright weather, it is wonder¬
ful how fast these grow. Thus treated, and
potted on as soon as needed, fine plants 4 feet
or 6 feit in height may be grown from cuttings
in one season. Shift choice zonal Geraniums
from 3-inch pots into 4^-inch ones for summer
blooming, and pot off singly any that may be
still in the cutting pots. Seedlings of all sorts
still need to be constantly pricked off as ready,
or they speedily become spoiled and useless.
Petunias sown early and pricked off some time
since should be potted into 3-inch pots for early
flowering. If grown on in a warm, light, and
airy house or frame, and kept properly watered,
these seedlings will make much more handsome
plants, with larger and finer flowers than any
from cuttings.

Bougainvillea glabra. — Keep the
strongest shoots, which are those that must
be depended on for flowering, in an erect posi

tion, as, if allowed to droop, they break back,
which interferes with the blooming. Of all the
hard-wooded stove plants that are grown, this,
under pot culture, if allowed to get anything
approaching dry at the root, has its blooming
the most interfered with. If it gets a check in
this way before the bloom is formed the shoots
usually do not extend further, but set a few
flowers at the points in place of the long wreaths
that are forthcoming when all goes well with
the plant. Both this and Allamandas will stand
manure water in a stronger state than most
things, and to have them in the vigorous con¬
dition essential to profuse flowering, they should
have it weekly after the roots and top growth
have begun to move freely.

Potting. —For the purposes of ordinary cul¬
tivation it is a great mistake to use larger pots
than can be made to suffise, either for flowering
plants or for those that are grown for their
effective foliage. In the case of flowering plants,
where too much root-room is allowed, it induces
over-extension of the shoots and foliage, and
often a straggling condition collectively with¬
out proportionate increase in the quantity of
flowers. Where larger pots are used for fine¬
leaved subjects than needful, their appearance
is neither so attractive, nor are they so endur-
ing, as gross, over-luxuriant foliage soon loses
its bright, healthy look. In addition to these
objections, where plants are so treated as to in¬
duce extraordinary development, there is neces¬
sarily less room for variety; consequently,
in the potting operations that take place |
with the stock generally through the spring
months, it is well to give no more root-
space than is requisite, trusting to the aid of
surface manuring or liquid stimulants to keep
the plants in a robust, healthy state. This par¬
ticularly applies to such plants as are wholly or
partially shaken out, and which have their soil
renewed annually. Where plants are wanted fer
exhibition purposes, and size is an object, to
some extent this course may be departed from,
•specially when grown in thoroughly light-giving

structures and kept close to the roof, conditions
which directly check over-extension of the top-
growth. In the case of soft-wooded plants of
quick growth a continuous supply of manure
water at short intervals is indispensable at this
season, and it must never be given too strong.
For quick-growing plants like shrubby or herba¬
ceous Calceolarias, Cinerarias, Fuchsias, Pelar¬
goniums, Hydrangeas, Petunias, and tender
annuals there is no better plan when once the
pots get thoroughly full of roots and the flowers
are formed than to use it continuously every time
the soil requires moistening until the blooming
is over. Hard-wooded greenhouse plants, such
as Azaleas, Aphelexis, Boronias, Acacias, Choro-
zemas, Correas, Baphnes, Myrtles, Eriostemons,
Pimeleas, Polygalas, Pleromas, Neriums, Hove as,
and Genistas, at this season of the year, when
taxed with the development of their flowers or
with shoot growth, are greatly benefited either
by manure water or the use of some solid fertili¬
ser applied to the surface of the soil, which will
not only assist the current season’s bloom, but
its effects will be still more apparent on the en¬
suing growth.

Primulas and Cinerarias— Those who
have really good strains of these useful plants,
and who are desirous of saving seed which they
can rely on, should select in the case of Cine¬
rarias plants that possess the best form and
colour of flower. Each plant possessing these
properties should be isolated from the inferior
stock whilst in bloom, as in this way only can
seed that will produce flowers of the requisite
stamp be secured. As regards Primulas, the
later sowings made last year, which have not
been so much weakened by blooming as the
earliest, will be in the best state to teed freely ;
these should be set on a shelf or stage under the
influence of strong light and sufficiently sup¬
plied with water, nipping out the successional
flowers formed after enough for seed puiposes
have been secured.

Boses.— Tea Boses in pots that have been
forced and flowering for some time will, if
strong, yet keep on making wood that will yield
flowers, but to have them of large size and suf¬
ficient in quantity the plants must be regularly
and liberally fed with rich surface dressings.
Where any falling off occurs in this matter the
after-growth will come too weak to flower: or if
a portion of it does bloom, the produce will be
thin and poor. It rarely happens that pot Tea
Boses in the hands of private growers yield
nearly the quantity of flowers of which they are
capable, through want of liberal feeding The
nature of these Boses is to keep on all but con¬
tinuously growing when in a temperature that
admits of such taking place, but, unless they
receive a regular and liberal supply of manure in
either a solid or liquid form, they neither increase
in size nor produce flowers in abundance. They
require and will bear much more in the way of
stimulants than is generally supposed, and so
applied they have a much better effect than any
quantity of solid matter added to the soil which
they will bear at the time of pottiDg. Where
the plants are turned out in beds, and their
roots have thus unrestricted space in which to
extend, they naturally are better able to take
care of themselves, but even in this case a free
use of manure water will be found advantageous.
Whether cultivated in pots or planted out, they
should be regularly syringed every day to keep
down red spider—not merely sprinkled in the
way often thought sufficient, but letting them
have water without stint, so as to drench the
foliage. Where Bose culture under glass is ever
expected to be above mediocrity, there must be
a ceaseless outlook for mildew, especially during
this and the ensuing month, and wherever a
curled leaf is seen, flour of sulphur should at
once be applied.

Window Plants.

Keep plants in rooms clean and well watered.
One frequently hears complaints at this season
that plants taken from a greenhouse “go off”
so when placed in a room. Gas has a great deal
to do with this, but the chief cause is the change
to the parching air of the room, as compared
with the mixture of a genial greenhouse. Careful
watering and a frequent damping overhead with
a syringe, or brush dipped in water, will go far
to counteract this evil, but the best plan is to
have a wooden tray constructed 3 inches or
4 inches In depth, and large enough to comfort¬
ably hold the desired number of plants. Place

this on a stand or table near
fill it with fresh Cocoanut-fibre. NotK
be cleaner or sweeter, and if the plants are«
upon, or partially plunged in this 6ubstatc*,
this kept constantly moist, the plants
flourish wonderfully, and no dropping of,
or any unpleasantness of that sort takes
Again, if plants are to do well, the atm
of the room must be frequently changed
is, the window must be opened a little, ;
ably at the top, for at least two or three
every day, unless very cold. With many
the usual practice, and a highly comm
one in every way ; but plants cannot thri
the stuffy atmosphere to be found in t
houses. Ferns starting into fresh growth &
be repotted into fresh peaty soil and clean
A liberal supply of water will be required u
growth advances, but do not give too mn
first. Pay great attention to Grevillea ro
which is one of the very best, as well as
elegant, of room plants. If not already g
a plant or two should at once be secure
they will just now be commencing to grow!

Flower Garden.

Make successional sowings of Mign
other hardy annuals if required, and
thin out, water, and otherwise attend to
patches of those already sown and np. Shra
Calceolarias (yellow) will succeed much ^
if planted out at once in deep rich soil
left till the other bedding plants are put
being almost hardy, there will now be no
to hurt them. Obtain plants of the many
tiful varieties of Pyrethrums, both single
double, and put them out into beds of rich
in a sunny position. No plants are
adapted for town culture, and the blooms,
of a very enduring character, are very useful
cut flowers. Hollyhocks, Phloxes, Pentstei
and other hardy and half hardy perennials
also be planted at the present time with e
prospect of success.

Summer bedding.— Bedding plan
present time demand all but a monopoly
attention as regards propagation, arrange
and planting. Winter effect having to he
sidered as well as summer, in order to a
much autumnal removal, every hardy plant
thing like suitable is pressed into the ser
this to some extent excludes as unsuitable
plants which we should otherwise like
and in some degree robs the summer garden
its gaiety, but this loss is more than repaid
the extended season during which it is effecd
Spaoe will not admit of giving in detail all
arrangements now being made from the sta
point just alluded to, but the following treiH
ment of a large circular bed may be taken as »*
fair example of the many ways in which hardy
agd tender bedders may be planted in combini-
tion. It is edged with Herniaria glabra, green,
and the groundwork, or divisional lines, which
cut up the bed into smaller circular or oblong
beds, consist of Veronica incana, greyish whiter
the smaller angles being filled with Ajoga rep-
tans purpurea, and the central and smaller tod*
as follows: In the centre is a large plant of
Phormium tenax variegatum, which is quite
hardy here; this is surrounded by Viola Blot
Bell and Ageratum Capid in mixture. The
oblong beds have for the centre small plants of
Cupressu8 erecta viridis, and a surrounding
line next the Veronica of Coleus, the oentw
being filled in with tricolor Pelargonium
Sophia Dumaresque. The small circles have as
centres small plants of Betinospora pisifera
aurea; one half of them is filled with
Lobelias of the pumila section, and the other
half with Alternantheras It will thus b«
seen that the whole of the framework of the
bed, including the centre, is entirely composed
of hardy plants, and therefore its conversion t<
a winter bed is an easy matter. Some of on
beds have more, and others a less number o:
hardy plants than that here given, so that th»
bed just described may be accepted as abou
the average. When determining these arrange
ment8 and selecting plants for them, our pre
ponderating thoughts are length of seasor
during which the plants continue effective, th
reducing of labour by propagation of tende
kinds, and the saving of house room for othf
and more profitable purposes. Most of tb
planta which we use have from time to time bee
alluded to; amoDg those now being planted ai
Sedum glaucum, ccraicum, and acre elegat

Go gle

April 10, 1684.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

71

Jraga rosularis and oppositifolia major’
istinin arvense and tomentosnm, Echeverias*
perviviums, Lamium maeulafcum aureiim-
i and Silver Thymes, Gnaphalium lanatmn.
ichrysum plicatam, Veronica incana and
estri-*, small shrub*, Yuccas, Cbamrepeuces
jh-bone Thistles), Violas, and Calceolarias.

Fruit.

rcfiaud houses —When the stoning pro-
i is complete make the final thinning, bearing
niod that a light crop of fine fruit gives more
sfaotion than a heavy one. Always give the
ference to Peaches and Nectarines which
nt to the sun or can be coaxed into doing so,
erwise the stalk instead of the apex will re-
ve the colour so much admired, but not al-
ya attained. A general pinching of all the
>ng shoots will now be bancficial to the rapidly
filing fruit, but weak ones will be best left
ne, as the only wood bud which they make is
ihe point, and stopping would render the
iot useless for another year. Good syringing
1 liberal feeding must have daily attention
1 sharper forcing may be indulged in by day,
•ticularly when the house can bo closed with
ntyof solar heat and moisture, but hard forc-
' u not advised, as it invariably ends in pale,
lery apologies for Peaches which nobody
nks of eating. It is understood that the
j-«e raa9t be closed every afternoon for the
oinment of size, but night air should be given,

(1 the temperature should range from 56° to
J when the fire is banked up for the night,
d oO 3 in the morning, with a steady rise to
or 70° by day. In the case of late houses,

■e no time in giving relief by timely thinning
wn to within a moderate percentage of the
iended crop. Disbud by degrees, use water
jely, always warm if attainable; feed with
*ak liquid manure for the present, and aim at
firm, sturdy growth by giving plenty of air
rough the esrly part of the day, and by closing
time for the water from the last syringing to
y off the foliage before nightfall. If fires are
ailable. bo ever on the watch, as a severe frost
ight injure the young fruit where blossoms
oold e^pe. Where Plums or Cherries are
•own with the Peaches, they will do best in the
)olest and most airy part of the house, as a
o?e, moist atmosphere often does more mis-
lief thaD dry frost. Figs require the warmest
nd, and Pears, where space is limited, may be
langed on a warm border out-of-doors when
he fruit begins to swell, and there is no longer
anger from spring frosts. Look well to pot
rawberries on the side shelves, and keep them
fell fed and syringed, as it is to their culture
hat we are invariably indebted for the first
preirance of spider.

Mkloks.—E arly Melons now swelling will
eqnire liberal feeding with warm liquid until
hey have attained their full size and show signs
3f changing for ripening, when a moderate
quantity of pure water to prevent flagging will
keep them going and improve their flavour. If
the plants are well cropped, lateral growths will
no longer be troublesome, and as the size and
quality of the fruit will depend upon the health
of the old foliage, this must be kept clean and
tree from insects by copious syringing every
afternoon at closing time. Morning syringing
ia light, bright houses must now be given up.
otherwise the foliage will scald; but all paths
w alb. and surfaces may be well damped with
warm water as soon as the morning heat begins
to rise. Ventilate early to allow moisture to
ury off the foliage, then gradually raise the heat.
to>5 or90 J with sun; close at these figures,
and descend to 70° for the night. Grow on suc-
cewiona with plenty of heat, air, anrl water, bnt
carefully avoid producing a gross habit by feed-
until after the fruit is set and swelling
tatfp the glass cleao, never shade after the
panu get established, thin out and train the
jocag growths, also remove male blossoms, and
allow a wild, abandoned style of growth (luring
the time the frnifc is setting. The end of this
®wthi8 a good time to make up manure beds
a the frame ground for the growth of a summer
**9 of Melons, and as a steady heat is of the
wateat importance, let the manure and leaves
^*ell worked and fermented before they are
I 11 together. Build the bed just large enough
receive the frame, make it very firm, and pro¬
ject from the weather. When the heat begins
Recline and approaches 90°, prepare the hills
lc Sensual way, always bearing^in mind th|t

Digitized by /lO

the strong roots should be prevented from going
down into the manure by the use of large sods
of fresh turf laid Grasa-side downwards along
the centre of the bed. To economise compost
and to facilitate feeding, place two broad planks
on their edges and 2 feet apart longitudinally
on the sods; fill loosely with compost, beat
firmly when warmed through, and turn out the
young plants 12 inches apart.

Vegetables.

Vegetable Marrows, ridge Cucumbers, and
Gherkins—all useful vegetables—should just now
claim attention. We make trenches 8 feet and 1
foot deep, building up the soil at the edges of the
trench and filling it up with old material used for
Seakale and Rhubarb forcing in the spring.
Mixing with this a few loads of fresh manure
from the stable soon gives the whole mass a nice
gentle heat. We then earth it over from each
side of the trench, and it is ready for handlighfcs
placed in the centre. We sow the seed about
the first week in May, taking the nurserymen’s
advice to sow thick and thin early. Early Pota¬
toes now showing above ground should be
earthed over to keep them sale from frost; when
caught and blackened they never turn out so
good a crop. The crop seems to paralyse them
and does them much injury. Turnips, Spinach,
Parsley, Brussels Sprouts, and a pinch of Cab¬
bage seed may now be sown, the Brussels
Sprouts being too late for use, but all spring
Broccoli keep in the seed store until the begin¬
ning of May. Beet should now be sown; also
make successional sowings of Peas. Broad Beans
should be sown according to the demand Wit-
loo f sow at once if wanted. The ground lately
occupied with Broccoli should now be made
ready for Celery by taking out the trenches.
Lettuces may be planted on the ridges.
Well manure the trenches and dig them up a
good depth if the soil admits of it, and by the
time the plants are ready the soil will be well
pulverised through the action of the weather.
Mustard and Cress, Radishes, Ac., fow in accord¬
ance with the demand.

ROSES.

STRIKING ROSE SLIPS IN BOTTLES.

In Gardening Illustrated for August 2 1st,
1880, a little article appeared headed “ Ea9y
way of propagating Roses from cuttings.’’
Having read this article we thought we would
try striking Rose cuttings in water, and this
kind of Rose culture having afforded us much
interest and being highly successful, we think
that perhaps your readers may like to hear our
experiences, which are as follows : Towards the
end of July, the year before last, cuttings, or
rather slips of Adam, Safrano, Pauline la Bonte,
and some others which failed, were pat in
bottles. Pauline la Bonte had nice little roots
by the end of September, but having been put
in a too narrow-necked bottle they were injured
in taking them out. Adam and Safrano were
left in their bottles for eleven months (owing
to our absence from home) a little soft water
being occasionally added, the bottles were then
full of tangled roots. They were both in Eau
de Cologne bottles, and it was noteasy to extract
them ; the neck of Adam’s bottle was broken,
and his bark unfortunately a little injured.
However, eventually, he did not seem to suffer
from this accident, although at first Safrano got
on much the best. Being warned by this acci¬
dent, we were very cautious about breaking
Safrano’s bottle, and succeeded in breaking tho
bottom of the bottle without injuring the plant,
the Rose was then drawn out through the
bottom of the bottle. These Roses were potted
in the month of June, they were then kept in
the greenhouse for a short time, and in Sep¬
tember planted out. During severe weather
they were protected by a bell glass, and they
are now most flourishing little plants Last
summer we put, eighteen rose slips in bottles in
the first half of July. Chestnut hybrid was the
first to root. In four weeks it had nice roots,
and altogether has been a model Rose. Rooting
so quickly it could soon be potted, and now it
is a fine little bush which can be planted out as
soon as the weather gets mild. It has been
Kept in the window of a spare room all the
winter. Marf'chal Nicl and Gloire de Dijon
also rooted quickly. Some of the Roses that
were slow and had callused, bnt not rooted, we

potted, but we did not find it any advantage.
They would most likely have done better left in
the bottles, as Pauline la Bonte which was left,
put out roots in January, is now ready for pot¬
ting, and can be planted out in May. I should
mention that out of the eighteen slips, twelve
are doing well, one was lost after it had rooted,
and five failed.

These bottled slips have been a great source of
interest and amusement,, and for an invalid who
cannot go much out-of-doors, bottle gardening
would be peculiarly suited. The Roses require
a good deal of attention, as they must be kept
clean and free from greenfly. If the water gets
6limy, they can be taken out of the bottle, wiped
carefully, and the bottle cleaned and refilled
with soft water, adding a few bits of fresh
charcoal. Several slips may be put into one
wide-mouthed bottle; if they are inclined to
slip down far into the water, it is well to put a
little dry Moss in the neck of the bottle to sup¬
port them. Anyone attending constantly to
these kind of Rose cuttings becomes personally
interested in each; they have their own characters,
histories, and adventures. One of ours, for
example, when we were potting was lost; we
did not miss it till next day, when, on counting
over the Roses, one, alas ! was roissiDg. After a
great search this small green 6tick with a minute
shoot and root was found near the potting
ground none the worse apparently for having
spent the night out-of-doors and out of earth
or wafer; it was carefully potted, and is now
flourishing. For the benefit of those who may
be unable to refer to Gardening Illustrated
for 1880, I will give the necessary directions for
this kind of Rose culture. The slips must be of
ripened wood, from about 4 inches to 8 inches
long, put them in wide-mcked bottles full of
soft water, and place the bottles close to the
glass of a greenhouse or window, so that they
may get. all the light and sun possible, replenish
the water now and then; a little charcoal
purifies the water. Rose Slip.

ogle

Roses from cuttings.—I Fee various
questions are being asked about the cultivation
of Rose cuttings. They should be taken in
October. There are various ways of treating
cuttingR ; some plant them out-of doors ; some
in cool greenhouses or frames, and others in hot¬
houses ; either way will answer, but those grown
in heat and carefully hardened off are safest. In
selecting cuttings care should be taken, shoots
with about six eyes cut off the plant®,and planted
in loamy soil, are best. Nothing more remains to
be done if they are in the greenhouse except
careful watering. Out-of-doors, if frosty weather
should set in, hand-lights or twigs of trees
should be placed over the cuttings. In the spring
care must be taken that the plants are not too
much exposed to the sun till they have filled
their pots with roots, ihen the sun will be
advantageous. As for the plants out-of-doors,
as soon as the fro3t goes take off the hand-lighta
and leave them in the bed till they have been
struck in till the autumn and then plant them in
the beds in which they are to bloom.—J. W.
Kitchin.

Grafting Roses on Brier stocks —

Briers can be obtained in October—dwarfs abont
63. and standards 7s per 100. The situation and
soil for the Briers must be carefully studied.
They should occupy such a postilion as one sees
in the snug quarters of a nursery protected from
stormy winds. The Briers may be budded
in July, and I advise aDV amateur who wishes
to bud them, to learn the art from some neigh¬
bour. Select strong buds from your Rose trees
and get them Fettled comfortably in their rew
homes as soon a* possible. In November shorten
the budded shoot to about Cinches from the bn<L
and in May cut it close to the bud itself —J. W.
KlTCHIN.

11330.— Rosea unhealthy — They are
evidently badly affected by miluew. The best
plan would be to dissolve two ounces of soft
soap in a gallon of hot rain water, add to it two
ounces of flour of sulphur, and with this
thoroughly wash the Rose leaves by syrirging,
stirring up the water at the time it is being
used, as the sulphur is not held in solution but
rapidly sinks to the bottom. Snlphnr is the bc^t
antidote for mildew, and when the leaves are
not so bad as yours are described to be, the
parasite is destroyed , by dnst^irg with flour
of sulphur.—J. D. E.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

72

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[ApRii. lt>, 1884.

11326.— Manuring dwart Roses —The
beat way to do this is to place a good dressing
of manure over the surface of the ground in the
autumn, placing it close to the stems of the
Roses. When they are prune 1 in the spring, the
manure should be lightly forked in, disturbing
the roots of the Roses as little as possible. The
plan you have adopted will answer, and may in
some soil be quite as feasible as that described
above. If it sets in very hot, dry weather, when
the Roses are coming into bloom, we give them
a thorough soaking of water, and again mulch
round the roots with a good dressing of rich,
partially decayed manure.—J. D. E.

-You have done quite right in covering

the soil with dung, and you were also right in
previously stirring about the plants. All light
soils should be mulched, as it helps to retain
moisture, promotes strong growth, and the water
more easily gets to the roots. All you have to
do is to water copiously in hot, dry weather, and
you will get good Roses.—J. C. B.

HOUSE AND WINDOW GAEDENING.

ARRANGEMENT OF FLOWERS.

Fob a good effect, flowers, whether arranged in
bouquets, baskets, or vases, for either the par¬
lour, the dining-table, or the platform, should
in all cases be made to appear as if on growing
plants. They should appear perfectly natural
instead of artificial, as they too commonly
seem, especially when arranged by the mechani
cal florist. But very few persons, relatively,
show any taste in the arrangement of flowers.
They do not fill a vase or basket in such a
manner that it is a pleasure to look at it; on the
contrary, the confused way in which flowers are
crowded, crushed together, excites your sym¬
pathy for the poor, distressed objects. Of all
the various mistakes made in floral decorations,
the most common is that of putting too many
in a vase; and the next to that is the mistake
of putting too great a variety of colour into one
bouquet or vase. Every flower in a collection
should be so placed that its individuality should
be determinable without having to pick the
bouquet to pieces. The calyx of a Carnation
should never be hidden by beiDg plunged into
the head of some other flower, however well
their colours may harmonise; not more than two
varieties of them should be in a vase of loose
flowers, and these should be such as afford the
greatest contrast of colour, together with the
most perfect harmony.

Carnations should be cut with long stems,
so that their own foliage would furnish suffi
cient green to give the mass a natural appear¬
ance, if any other green is required, and a due
proportion is always necessary; in fact, in all
arrangement of flowers, appropriate foliaqe
should be in excess of the flowers. With the
Carnation there is nothing more beautiful than
the fronds of the Maiden-hair Fern. We have
never had more satisfaction in the arrangement
of flowers, in any design whatever, than by
taking the hardy Carnation that is so freely
produced in summer, a few stems of flowers
and partly opened buds, put in a tall vase with
a liberal amount of Maiden-hair Fern, the whole
so gracefully united that every flower, bud, and
frond of the Fern could be seen in its integrity.

Sweet Peas never look so well in the hand
as they do on the plant, amid the boughs over
which they climb, because they cannot be carried
without crowding them ; but put them lightly
into a vase with an equal number of Mignonette;
or, rather, ornament a vase half full of Migno¬
nette, with a few blooms of Sweet Peas, and
you get a charming effect, because you follow
the natural arrangement by avoiding crowding
the natural blooms, and putting them with the
green foliage which they want to set them off.
Few people are aware until they try it how easy
it is to spoil such a pleasing combination as
this. A piece of yellow Calceolaria, a truss of
scarlet Geranium, or a spray of blue Salvia
would ruin it effectually. Such decided colours
as these require to be grouped in another vase,
and should not be placed even on the same table
as Sweet Peas. They also require a much larger
preponderance of foliage than is wanted by
flowers of more delicate colours. When we
have a basket of flowers of all shades of colour
and variety of form before us to arrange, we
know full well the difficulty of resisting the

Digitized by (jOOQIC

temptation of just putting in this or that flower,
because it is such a beauty. A beauty it may
be, but beauty is not beautiful when out of
place, and it is not in its proper place when it
does not. harmonise with its surroundings.

Lilies rarely look well when mixed with
other forms, and there are scarcely two varieties
of these that look well in the same vase. For
large vases each class or variety should be used
singly, with sufficient foliage to form a proper
natural contrast. With the white Lily (Lilium
candidum), the most beautiful and pure of all
known Lilies, a few sprays of Delphinium for-
mosum makes a pleasing contrast,and for foliage
in combination with these there is nothing
equal to the more delicate species of Ferns; if
these cannot be obtained, the Asparagus, used
sparingly, produces a pleasing effect. For church
decorations there can be no arrangement more
chaste, beautiful, or appropriate than this. Later
in the season the Lilium lancifolium prtecox can
be used in the same manner, and with very
nearly the same effect. White and green, hap¬
pily blended, is the best possible arrangement.

Where flowers are to be seen at a dis¬
tance, then they should be large and distinct,
and in tall vases with some drooping plant to
relieve the vase, like the Passiflora or German
Ivy ; the vase should always stand in a mass of
Ferns or Lily of the Valley. For tho same pur¬
pose Gladioli make a beautiful display, and in
their arrangement harmony of colour is of the
greatest importance. Where flowers are to be
seen at a distance, white and scarlet or crimson
varieties only should be used ; these colours can
be u*ed singly or together. For foliage, either
Ferns or Asparagus leaves can be used with
good effect. The Eulalia japonica and zebrina
harmonise well with the Gladiolus, and for
large displays it is best for foliage of anything
we have tried. For a basket of flowers in their
season, for any purpose whatever, whether for
the platform or the parlour, there is nothing

widest, the whole forming a mass of vegetnia
which cannot be excelled, considering the
ditions to which it is subject, and these cord
tions it enjoys thoroughly. The glare of tfc
son it does not like ; a shady window and ple^
of water it enjoys, and it will bear an occaaoa
open window, which Ferns in a room will na
At certain times the plants are just takenj
the terrace and syringed to take off the dai
which, with every care, must accumulate on U
leaves. The three plants taken from the orig
nal are not quite so large, but in equally pa
health. I have heard this plant is common«
the Continent; it certainly is not in Ecgkciij
Three good nurserymen I applied to oonld Mi;
supply me with it some three years since wheel;
wanted more plants, but I obtained foorplacb
of the variegated sort, having long atripes di
white with the green. I do not much like tbeaJ
they do not grow so well, appear more dehcaiu
and are not so well adapted for every-dif
domestic life ; in the conservatory they flouiiAJ
Arum Lily (Calls), Aucuba, Aspidistra luri^l
New Zealand Holly Fern, and red and gre
Dracienas flourish fairly well if kept clean.
Walnut put into a pot of rich earth as soon
ripe makes a very handsome and uncommon
plant the next summer, and has a delighia
perfume. A Spanish Chestnut, too, is am"
planted in the fame way. All these plants
kept in good foliage by occasionally epong
the leaves with tepid water, and if allowed
get too dry they are recovered by plunging *
pot over its rim in water for an hour or so.
drives out the air and lets in the water.

K

more beautiful than Apple blossoms; these I large majority of Ferns, British and exotic, soad
should not be mixed with any other flowers. Cut | either outerow the limited capacity of an erq
such as are just opening, arrange in such a
manner that yonr basket resembles a miniature
Apple tree, and your arrangement is perfect. If
the Viola pedata can be obtained, place the bas¬
ket in a mass of these flowers with their own
leaves as foliage, and the effect will be very
pleasing. The proper arrangement of flowers
may be stated in a few words. Never put more
than three varieties or colours in the same vase
or bouquet, and let those colours be such as
perfectly harmonise. Arrange the flowers so
that each one can be seen entire. In all your
arrangements imitate Nature in hers.

Ferns for glass cases.—The question

often put to me by lady friends, “ What is
nice Fern for a glass shade ? ” which seems
first easily answered; those, however, bo|
acquainted with Ferns will hesitate the
before replying, knowing as they do that thr

i__• _ C tj,_!>_£*:

PLANTS FOR ROOM CULTURE.

From long experience and always having a
growing plant and cut flowers in all my sitting
rooms, I can answer several recent inquiries :
“What evergreen plants will grow and thrive all
the year round in sitting rooms?” I tried
Ferns; they look well for a time, but do not
thrive, and require continued changes where a
constant, nice, healthy, graceful effect is re¬
quired, and without this effect better have no
plants. I tried Palms; they do fairly well for a
time, and look graceful, but when growth com¬
mences the lower leaves are sure to show decay ;
they look best if the base of the plant is sur¬
rounded with small Ferns, the fronds of which
conceal the naked stems of the Palms. Some
years since, in wandering through Covent Garden
Market (and in all my London visits I like to go
through the markets, the scent and sight of the
many flowers and fruits and vegetables is so
pleasant), I purchased a small plant of Aspi¬
distra lurida; it then had only three leaves of
about a foot in length, the leaves rising from
hard, naked stems quite green, and then expand¬
ing into wide, thick, graceful foliage of a dark,
rich, green colour; the flower is peculiar, and
would scarcely be noticed, as it is on the surface
of the earth. There was a peculiarity about the
plant which struck me, and I have not been dis¬
appointed. It is the only plant I know which
thoroughly adapts itself to domestic life, living
always with you, the leaves seldom dyiDg, and
with the most ordinary care always showing
form and colour of the most beautiful kind. The
original plant, after three plants have been
taken from it by division, has now thirty leaves,
the longest about 27 inches and 5 inches in the

UNIV

either outgrow the limited capacity
nary bell glass or under the highly artifia*
conditions of light in rooms, become first of s!
drawn np and spindly, and then corresponding
weak and unhealthy, losing thereby all tie*
attractiveness. To those, however, who ■
acquainted with the Todeas, T. superba, and I
pellucida, the answer is easy, for here are tfi
Ferns which in their marvellously delicate s*ra
ture, brilliant emerald hue, and last, but rrt
least, evergreen and hardy natnre, are e&uf
adapted for that close culture which a bell-gbs
afford?, permits them, in conjunction with tbflf
compact habit and comparatively slow iccreirf
in size, to be grown for years in a limited com¬
pass. Both these Ferns are of the most charr¬
ing character. T. superba especially jostinirf

its name, the fronds exactly reeembling the eo*j

delicate green ostrich feathers, and springing .®, 1
they do, symmetrically from one centre, bespiif
themselves up year after year, for under good cul¬
ture they last green and fresh for five or
years. A well-grown plant is acknowledged bj
all to be really unrivalled in its special sphe*
of beauty. In T. pellucida, a fit companion, t«
growth is not quite so compact, and the froj®
are flatter, with less crowded segment#, twji
allowing the peculiar franslncency of tbefronu:
to be more apparent .n T. superba, whia
gives its beauty its specific character. Both an
of the easiest culture, the only requisites being
plenty of light, direct sunshine excluded (anorta
window suits them exactly), a good ordinal?
well-drained Fern compost to grow, in and a
stantly moist atmosphere which is securer s
keeping the soil well watered and removing »»
bell-glass as rarely as possible. Finally, tMJ
seem never to suffer from the usual pests
greenfly, slugs, &c., and thus, with ordictfty
fair treatment will last a lifetime, and form 31
exhaustless source of pleasure.—C. T. D.

Ivy on brickwork.— Fasten the shoots to
wall as they grow with leather shreds and nsii».
by the time the shreds are decayed the ivy will 3
to the wall without support.—Q. K. J.

Rose book.— Replying to “Sam,” the
Year Book" is published by Messrs. BemTOM and • .
London and Derby, price one shi ling, and Uiere
be no difficulty in obtaining a copy through an
seller. However, where this cannot be done, w *
the Revd H Honywood D’Ombrain, We«twell
Ashford, Kent, eucloslng cost uni postage, and
forward direct with pleasure I know.—WM. "A** 1
Burton on Trent.

ERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Unit. 10, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

73

FRUIT.

STRAWBERRIES WORTH GROWING.

.awDerbies used to be divided into three
163, Hautbois, and alpine) but all these have
n so ranch crossed and intermixed, that such
unification hardly any longer answers the
pose. The earlier grown varieties which are
distinct are the Hautboisand alpines, which
may say a word or two about first. The old
i!boi8 is rarely or never seen now-a-days, bat
cultivators still speak of the variety and of
excellent quality and pecaliarly agreeable
oar, which has probably, in some degree,
n communicated by crossing to some of onr
rer kinds. This variety had the peculiarity
ipening two crops in the year—one in July
another in October. The fruit was about
size of our yet cultivated Black Prince, solid
hed and deliciously flavoured. The plants
not occupy much room and were very pro-
:. As to the alpine Strawberry, although not
imonly cultivated now-a-days, it still finds a

* in many large gardens, and the wonder is
i not more popular than it is. It is not a
;e variety, the largest sized frnits seldom ex-
ling the bulk of an ordinary Filbert, but
y aie borne in great profusion, and the crop
ies in during August, September, and Octo-

when other Strawberries are over. The Paris
ket gardeners still grow alpine9 extensively,
piles of beautiful fruit are to be seen in the
ie markets in autumn. The usual plan of
afiog alpines is to sow seed in autumn or
og and plant oat on a north border or slope,
igh the plants will succeed in any other
Kit, and renew the plantations periodically,
i sown in autumn will produce a fine crop
following year. A light, rich soil suits them

n old variety of the Strawberry is Cathill’s
ck Prince, commonly called Black Prince,
half so much esteemed as it should be, for it
oth an excellent and an early cropper and
rs most abundantly. In a general way the
•ies are not very big, not exceeding 1 inch in
neter on the average, but want of size is
ipensated for by quantity, and the quality
colour is good. Grown on a sunny bank, or
he foot of a south wall, and well done too, it
iea in long before any other kind at present
ultivation, and is valuable on that account
ie. We grow nothing else for preserving
poses, and always force a good quantity of
same variety.

good sort for filling baskets for market is
ies Veitch, a comparatively new kind which
have not tried yet; but a friend in the trade
) prows fruit for market near a large pro-
)ial town told me last year that he had made
f money out of it than any other sort. The
ries are all large and fine looking, and he put
m in separate punnets of convenient size in
form of nice dishes and sold all at Is. per lb.
ing the whole season. No doubt this is a
■d way of disposing of fine fruit, for look has
ch to do with selling, and few care to buy
awberries for dessert off the heap on the shop
nter where they are generally partially
lised and spoiled and besides of very unequal
ility. Madame Hfiricart de Thury is at pre-
t the most popular Strawberry in general
tare; being a prod’ ‘ *~t cropper, certain in
icBtany soil or situation to bear, a good pre*
rer as well as a fine forcer, it should be ex-
rively grown. Keen’s Seedling is an old sort,
ich for fertility is hard to beat, and it is an
)03t fail-me-never as a bearer. A grand
«r, too, and good for preserving, one of the
t. in fact. Perhaps no Strawberry has stood
test of time so well as Keen’s ; it is a fine
t, fruit large, round, bright coloured, and well
soared, a variety well worth growing, and
M the finest crops of it we ever saw were
wn in the sandy soils of Nottingham. Sir
aides Napier is another good-looking sort if
the best flavoured, and it sells well, and
a prime looking basket in the window of

• fruiterer who is partial to it. Wizard of the
wh u large also, but a shy bearer. In fact,
^timating good sorts one must always take
«bearing qualities of a variety into considera-

for unless a Strawberry is a good

will not do for general culture, and
pieties differ greatly in this respect is j
known. There are some generally good
J’Vjkketvo or three of the first sorts named
4 piper, but many of the otto* sorts are not

to be trusted, and we strongly advise growers
before they go into Strawberry culture on any
great scale to mark the sorts that succeed best
in their own locality, or rather soil, for soil
affects the bearing qualities of Strawberries more
almost than any other class of fruits. H.

Pippin Apples. —I doubt if there is any
authentic information to be obtained respecting
the origin of the word Pippin, but one thing
seems certain, and that it was in existence loDg
ere the seeds of Apples came to be designated
pips, and theold writer Mortemer, whom “ W. N. C.”
quotes, seems to have reason on his side when
he says that Pippin Apples are so-called because
they usually have spots on them, for neither in
Walker nor Johnson do we find that the word
pip was applied to Apple seeds, whereas in
another sense it was synonymous with spot. But
it is most probable that the word Pippin is de¬
rived from the French pepin, which simply
means the seed of any fruit such as the Apple,
Pear, or Peach, and it is easy to conceive that
the first Pippin, or Pepin Apples were thus
named owing to the greater quantity or larger
size of the seeds as compared with the small
fruit kinds from which they originally came.
This is the more likely, as the French com¬
menced improving the Apple long ere we
attempted to do so in this country, and we
know how easily a foreign word becomes cor¬
rupted and Anglicised by common use, and when
we find Gloire de Dijon and Josephine de
Marines become respectively Glory de John and
Joseph on the Palings, the transition from
Pepin to Pippiu would appear easy and natural.
Pome have ascribed the origin of this word to
King Pepin le T>ref, who flourished about the
middle of the eighth century, but I think this is
goiDg back too far, although we know that even
at that time gardening was diligently practised
in the old monasteries of France, and some en¬
thusiastic old gardening monk might have
named the first Pippin Apple in honour of that
renowned monarch.—J. Corn hill.

New rods on old Grape Vines.—
Having a vinery which I wish to manage myself
I bought books on the culture of the Vine by
three authors. They all give directions for stop¬
ping the fruitful laterals but do not say to what
extent the unfruitful laterals should be stopped.
They also give directions how young Vines should
be treated, from planting up to and including
pruning after the first year’s fruiting, but do not
say how a new rod from an old Vine is to be
pruned and stopped, aDd when allowed to bear
fruit, although they all say the old rods must be
cut right out and new rods trained up to replace
them. If any reader will supply this informa¬
tion they will oblige. I have three rods to each
Vine, some of which I cut right out last year,
and am now training up new rods in their place
—Old Gbapb Vine.

11335.— Mildew on Vines.— Surely many
late querists about this cannot be in the habit
of reading Gardening Illustrated, seeing
that the subject has been so often treated in it.
In answer to “ S. H. F. J.” this advice may be
given. Take care that the border in which the
Vines grow is well drained, and at once, without
waiting for the appearance of mildew on the
foliage or fruit, blow flowers of sulphur over the
whole of it, repeating the process twice or
thrice during the growing season. A sulphura¬
ting bellows is best for this purpose, and this
may be procured through any seedsman.—J. M.

Dust the leaves on the very first appear¬
ance of this parasite with flowers of sulphur.
Had you asked for advice sooner you would have
been advised to remove all the loose bark from
the Vines, and to paint the young and old wood
with a mixture in which 4 ounces of soft soap is
dissolved in a gallon of rain water, and eight
ounces of flowers of sulphur with half-a-pint of
Tobacco liquor added to it; a little clay may be
added to thicken it with half-a-handful of
soot to tone down the yellow colour of the sul¬
phur. This destroys the germs of mildew, and
to a certain extent prevents Ihripsand red spider
from spreading. The Vine borders must be well
drained, as the want of drainage is a fertile
source of mildew, and many other ills that be-
fal the Vines.—J D. E.

11334.— Black-fly on Peach trees. — Fumigate
with Tobacco smoke immediately this troublesome pest •

*' not checked in time, will cripple the trees for the

igitized by

lot tkhok

S re

hole soaion —J. D. E.

VEGETABLES.

SOWING AND PLANTING ASPARAGUS.
Young Asparagus plants are a* easily raised
from seed as are Cabbages or Cauliflowers, and
all who are inclined to take an interest in
Asparagus culture will find seed sowing the
most profitable way of securing a stock of
healthy plants. The best of seed may be bought
for about 4d. per ounce, and from this 100
plants or more may be raised. We lift and force
many Asparagus roots annually, and in order
to keep up the supply we sow several ounces of
seed every spring. We have found this plan to
answer so well, that I think its general adop¬
tion would be an advantage to all.

When to Sow.

The seed is sown in the first or second week
in April if the weather is favourable. Beds are
not formed, but row after row is sown on one
of the borders. Previous to this the soil is
manured with some light material such as that
of an old Mushroom bed, which is dug in, then
the surface is broken up fine with a fork, when
it is ready for the seed. The drills are opened
to the depth of 2 inches, and the seeds are
dropped in singly about 3 inches apart; they
are then covered over with some light soil from
the potting shed and sowing is completed. In
one month hence the plants will be visible above
ground, and after that Dutch hoeing now and
then throughout the season is all the after-cuJ-
tnre they require during the first year. The
situation which we prefer for the young seed¬
lings is one rather Bheltered from wind, but
folly exposed to the sun. In a windy spot the
young growths are apt to be broken over occa¬
sionally, a circumstance very injurious to their
after-success. Plenty of sun, however, matures
the buds and crowns, and perfects them for
more vigorous growth the following season. We
have sown seed in May, but this did not pro¬
duce such fine roots by October as that sown a
month earlier, and no favourable opportunity
should now be allowed to pass before sowing.
In addition to what has been said, a caution
may be given not to sow thickly. When the
young plants are only an inch or so apart it is
impossible that the roots can have full scope;
the consequence is, they are cramped and of a
very inferior description by the end of the
season. Rather than have such plants as these
I wonld put the seeds in 4 inches or 5 inches
apart, but if a space of 3 inches is allowed ex¬
cellent roots will be the result. Besides this
being the time to sow, it is also the

Season to Plant.

All new plantations of Asparagus should be
formed at this time. When the roots are shifted
while the buds are quite dormant a good many
of them are liable to fail, and if planting is done
after the young shoots have become 3 inches or
4 inches high many of them will be checked or
killed, but if shifted just when the young stems
are beginning to form, which is the case now,
success will be the remit. It is a great advan¬
tage to be able to plant again as soon as the
roots have been dug up. and in this way, especi¬
ally home-raised seedling roots have always a
mnch better chance of succeeding than thoso
bought in and brought from a distance. One and
two-year-old roots may be transplanted with
better results than older ones. Three and four-
year-old roots do not transplant well; they get
checked just at a time when they should be use¬
ful. Plants from seed sown at this time last
year are those we will plant now, and as they
will not be shifted again, their fruiting or bear¬
ing disposition will not be upset, and in two
years we will have plenty of good produce from
them

Preparation op the Land.

Previous to planting the ground should be
well tilled and thoroughly manured, and on a fine
day, when the soil is in good working order, the
roots should be put in. The rows should not be
closer than 3 feet apart, and the plants should
stand from 1 foot to 2 feet asunder. Before any
planting is done all the rows should be opened
up with a spade; they should be taken out the
full width of implement, and from 3 inches to
inches deep. When all the rows have bien
opened in this trench-like fashion, the roots
which are to go in them should be dog up with
fork, care being taken not to break any of the
rootlets, and each one should be carefully laid

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

74

GARDENIJVO ILLUSTRATED

[April 19 ,

oat in the' position which it is to occupy before
covering with soil As the roots spread out
naturally this is easily done, and in placing the
soil over them it should be worked in about the
roots and over the crown with the hand ; then
fill it in with the spade. Should the soil be very
dry at the time of planting or become dry im¬
mediately afterwards, each root should be
watered through a rose-spouted can. If a small
quantity of soil in which half-decayed manure,
sand, and bones, or any other kind of artificial
manure is mixed, ca i be placed around and over
the roots, it will induce them to become estab¬
lished earlier than they would do in ordinary
soil, and growth of this kind is always to be en¬
couraged, as stems can never be formed too soon
or of too large a character. J. M.

Early Cauliflowers In tranches.—
Those who have neither the advantage of a
sunny sheltered border, nor the convenience of
hand-gljsses or frames wherein to forward a few
dozens of these, may gain considerably in point
of earliness by planting them in shallow
trenches. These should run north and south,
allowing 3 feet from centre to centre of each
trench, which should be just deep enough to
afford protection from the biting spring winds,
without depriving the plants of light and full
sunshine. They may be prepared as follows : —
After marking out with a line and spade the
space for the trench 15 inches wide, remove a
few inches of the top soil, placing it on the left
hand ; then dig out a good spade’s depth of soil,
laying it in a little ridge on the right side, and
after well mixing some rotten manure with the
soil in the bottom of the trench, return that
taken from the surface, breaking it up well and
in it plant the Cauliflower?, one row down the
middle 20 inches apart. It is better instead of
leaving the sides of the trench perpendicular, as
is usually done in Celery planting, to break the
sides down, so that the ground may slope gently
back from the middle of the trench ; and as the
plants progress, the soil can from time to time
be replaced around the stems, thus keeping them
firm and comfortable. Where such is obtainable,
a thick line of Spruce or Laurel boughs pushed
firmly and upright into the ground midway
between each trench will greatly mitigate the
severity of harsh winds from which we do not
now-a days seem secure till the end of May, but
they should not be left so high as to keep the
sun from the plants.—A. M.

Ridging land. —I have been much inter¬
ested iu the article by “ C. S which appeared
in a recent issue, on the importance of ridging
ground in winter. “C. S.” seems to think it
is the mainspring of success in vegetable cul¬
ture, bat after very long practice in the
management of large kitchen gardens of a stiff
clayey nature, I have proved it to bs quite un¬
necessary, and it certainly involves much more
labour than the method that I have found to
answer admirably, producing, as it does, a much
better amd more uniform tilth. Now, the ob¬
ject we have in view, in ridging, digging, or
trenching ground in winter, is to expose it to
the action of the winter’s frost, in order that we
may have it in a uniform and good tilth when
the seed time arrives. Now, I have never seen
ground that was in such condition that had been
ridged, and especally stiff, heavy Boils. For
suppose the frost and other actions of the at¬
mosphere penetrate to the depth of 6 inches,
ere the groand cm be cropped, the ridges must
be levelled down into the valleys between. In
the latter we shall thus have something like
12 inches of pulverised soil, but the base of the
ridges will be untouched by the frost, and will
be tough and leathery, and quite unfit for
tender seeds. The method I can confidently
recommend is as follows: If the soil is of a
heavy nature, manure heavily with half-decayed
horse manure, and dig the land one or, if it need
it, two spades deep, well breaking all clods in
the bottom of the trench as the work proceeds,
but leaving the top rough and flat; then the
action of the frost will affect the surface of the
ground exactly the same in every part as in
the ridged state. But the levelling down is
avoided, and we have simply to wait till fine
dry weather in March, then simply prong it
over, but by no m^ans turn it up. A wooden
or iron rake now run over the plot will leave
it in Fplendid condition to receive the most
tender seeds, ^i-^renture to say whoever will

Digitized by CtQOQ l£

adopt this method fairly will never ridge again.
For light soils I have found cow manuie or
stable manure in a more decomposed state to
be preferable to horse manure, but no ridg : r.g.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page id.)

The Apple.

I hear from nursery men of my acquaintance
that the demand fer fruit trees is increasing,
and that not so much in the shape of very large
individual orders, as in the increased number
of small ones. Evidently the attention that has
been given to fruit culture of late years by
writers and speakers is being felt by those it
was intended for, but only the fringe of the
subject has yet been touched. As regards the
Apple,

Ttie Standard Form

grafted on the Crab is undoubtedly the most
profitable kind of tree to plant, where the soil
is deep and good, and the force of the wind can
be broken. In the first place the labour
required in management is not great. After the
the first season all the work required will be to
look over the trees once a year, and remove
where necessary any branch that may be
encroaching upon a neighbour. Assuming the
trees are planted a9 soon as the leaves fall in
autumn, they will need staking and mulching
immediately. The roots will be at work before
the buds move in spring, and as soon as the sap
is on the move head the trees back to form a
base cutting to within four or six buds,
according to strength of branch.. After the first
year, udess the growth becomes very irregular,
there should be no necessity to cut back. By
planting early in autumn, and encouraging early
root-action, all the back eyes will burst in
spring, and the foundation for a handsome tree
may be easily laid. If it is intended to have a
crop of any kind beneath the standard tree, the
latter should have stems of not less than 6 feet
high. Sometimes in windy places dwarf trees
on the Crab or the free stock are planted and
allowed the same freedom of growth as is given
to the standards, and though they succeed well,
there is not the same facility for planting any
crop beneath. Jn shallow soils where the
6tronger-rooted stocks will produce mischief by
their natural inclination to run down,

Apples Grafted on the Paradise Stock
have very often been a great success, and where
they have failed the want of success has been
chiefly owing to a want of appreciation on the
part of the cultivator. It should never be for¬
gotten that a surface-rooting plant must find
its food on the surface, and this must be sup¬
plied in the shape of mulchiDg. Digging with
the spade would be ruinous; but about March
the loose mulch may be drawn off, and the crust
be just lightened up a little with a fork to let in
the air to sweeten and pulverise the soil. When
this has been done before the weather becomes
hot and dry, the mulching should be replaced.
For the production of really first-class fruit,
perhaps no system is superior to the
Espalier.

It is true the first cost is considerable, but if
the wire and standards are strong, and the work
is well put up and painted as required, the cost,
when spread over the period of its duration, is
not a great percentage. One of the advantages
of the espalier system of fruit culture is their
adaptability for every situation. They may form
a single row by the side of a path, or a whole
quarter may be covered with them, their dis¬
tances from each other being in proportion to
their height. As a rule, espaliers are too low.
There is plenty of space upwards which virtually
costs nothing, and no espaliers for Pears or
Apples should be less than 5 feet in height. If
a piece of land could be set apart for espaliers,
and they were 5 feet high, the same distance
should intervene, and they should run north and
south to obtain the full benefit of the sunshine.
The Apple on the Paradise never gets much
beyond a little bush, and therefore they do not
require much space. To do them justice, a bor¬
der or bed should be set apart for them, planting
them at first 3 feet apart. After the lapse of a
few years the plantation will need rearranging
when those requiring it can be given more space.
But the chitf thing to bear in mind is, they are

l

surface-rooting, and the roots must be fe<P
rich food in the skape ef mulchings ca|
surface.

Apfles on Walls.

In the midlands and the north, and In,
districts generally, a few of the best di
Apples are sometimes with advantage plii
against walls, to which they are trained n
same manner as Pears and Plums are; inj
of fact, the Plum and the Cherry areas ham!
the Apple. The system of training may bei
matter of convenience or personal liking; or»
may be guided by the amount of space We hu
to cover, and the variety we wish to obtain frog
it. Both the Apple and the Pear submit resdih
to have their branches moulded intoanyshipg
At the same time, perhaps, the simpler fora
are best. The horizontal, for instance, is a vw]
simple form, and whether we cover a wall or a
espalier we plant trees at certain distancesapnj
— say 14 feet—although the distance win vaj
somewhat according to the height of tbe wall s
fence and the goodness of the toil, as in a raps
rior fruit soil naturally the trees will au&tt
larger development than is possible on an mfo
rior one, no n atter how much may be dene ;i
improve it. The Cordon and the Palmette art
systems of training which in certain drcoic^
ces may be employed for the Apple, but v t
will be necessary to speak more folly abet;
these and other forms when treatirg of the P«t
I will not dwell upon them now. The Faai
the most ancient, and many still say the t*4
form for frnit trees to assume. Certainly ilk
advantages, not the least beiDg tbe case Mi
which a tree can be filled np with young *oo$
or by a re-arrangement of the branches wb«l
limb dies.

The Propagation of the Apple.

Everybody ought to know how to propegsiK
common a thing as an Apple tree, fiom ’k
planting of the pip or seed till tbe tree is fit ft
take its place in the garden or orchard .im
fruit-bearing tree is not so long. Tbe sed
will, of course, be saved when the fruits a*
consumed, and if one has very choice fruits u
may be interesting to sow the seeds with th
rule of testing the fruit which the trees fra
such seeds will produce. This is internal
work, and properly comes within the scope of th
experimenting amateur. If the seeds m
planted in pots they will be exposed to leva
vicissitudes, and when strong enough may M
planted ont when as thick as ODe's rirrer,
which will be in the case of tbe ma
under good culture, in three years, or peibxj*
in some cases in two years. Those it is im<G«*
to graft should be operated on in March. J-*
operation of grafting young healthy tetfiitf
stocks is a simple cne, and is usually praet^
on what is called the whip hacdle
slice being cut off the side of the stock s-W
the head has been cut off almost close tot*
ground, and a similar slice being cut of w
scion, and the two cut surfaces being brootfl
close to and fitted together. If one is tog,
than the other, then the bark on one side of
scion mnst be formed to the bark on the i
responding side of the stock, or no union
take place, and then the two must be bool
firmly together. Afterwards some
clay mnst be applied, and it will be an
vantage if some earth in the shape of anc|
be raised around the grafts, as success depot
upon the air beiDg kept from the cut parts at f
the bark unites and circulation sets in t**
one to the other. Budding is even a ®
simple operation than grafting, and shook ^
performed in summer, usually in August, an
performed in tbe same way as Boses are. ®*
an incision in the bark in the side of the f
near the ground, slipping in a bod, ana * ir j |
a strand of matting round it a few time* !
is firmly fixed beneath the bark. *

spring comes riund tbe stock can l® “ j &
back to the buds, and the whole ^ orce , 0 ‘ ( u . r '
roots will then be Eet to work to ®oppir ^ t
single bud, and a very vigorous shoot * tj
the result, which may either be trained c :, \
form a standard, or be stopped when or . f
cient height to induce side-shoots to start ^ ^
to form espaliers, or whatever form it 18 J ,
to adopt. Both in budding aDd J oe | j

the success of those who do succeed is °
careful supervision. It will not do to J
graft, and go away and forget all abou S
Tbe clay may crack UB ’ 4

JRBANA-CHAMPA1GN

\pkil 19 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

75

which is busy healing the wounded parts be
d up, and those parts perish for want of
necessary moisture. Again, after the young
yts have burst forth, care is needed to pre-
t the wind blowing them off, or the matting
- be lacerating the swelling bark and may
1 loosening. These are details which, to the
jghtful man, will be self-evident

Apple Trees from Cuttings.
or raising small fertile trees of particular
Lb, this is a very expeditious way. I have
s of the Mank’s Codlin that were pieces of
;ral years’ growth when sawn off, bearing
s about ten years ago, and no matter how
the seasons have beeD, they have never
*d to bear. I do not think this way of raising
!e trees, especially for small gardens, is
eciated as it ought to be, and it is not clear
te that a good many sorts of Apples, besides
e from which cattings aie usually taken, will
with a little care and pat ience strike root from
wood planted in a shaded border. I have
winter planted a lot of cuttings of various
Is of Apples. Old pieces a yard or so long
thick truncheon-like knobs at the bottom,
he best to plrftit. They should be planted
ly, buryng a foot or so of the bottom, tread-
hem in very firmly and mulchiDg the sur-
between the rows to keep the soil steadily
t and at an equable temperature. Apple
raised from cuttings in this way are fibrous
kI, and as the trees draw their food from
urface the foliage, the blossoms, and tho
all show a marked improvement from their
supply coming from a source more imme-
dy influenced by the sun’s warmth.

E. Hobday,

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

2o2.— Oool greenhouse —The necessity
cement floor will depend very much on the
• ion aad exposure of the house. If the site
bich it is built has been properly drained,
the soil is so open that there is no danger
e surplus water which may get under the
dations rising up in the soil inside, there
tie occasion for cementing more than the
fi, and even this is only recommended on
core of cleanliness, and the ease with which
can be swept and washed. The Boil inside
a ho-.se gives off moisture in a gradual and
ble manner, and when there is a full ex-
re to the sun, there is no danger of damp,
where, as in my case, the house is built on
Id day soil, and against a wall with a
i-west exposure, and with the floor at a
r level than the ground on the other side, it
rues necessary, in order to have complete
sand of the state of moisture inside, that
vhole floor be cemented, and also the wall
ome distance up. When this is done, and
i more moisture is required than what rises
raporation from the pots, pans of water can
laced underneath the staging, and the water-
;aa may be used during hot weather. The
!t radiator is somewhat local in its effect,
3g too much heat to the plants near it, and
ittle to those at a distance. Where there
o other heating apparatus, it is useful in
$ of severe frost, when all that is wanted is
eep the temperature above the freezing
t; but, so far as my experience goes, neither
>r the oil-stoves are to be recommended for
inuous heating, unless piping of some kind
rried round t he front, and at least one of
«dc walls.— 8. R.

323 — Draining a garden. —The drains
t be dug 3 feet deep, and about 7 yards
t. The cost of digging them, putting in
ch drain pipes, and making good the soil.
Ifl be tid. or 7d. per rod, yards run. The
o? the pipes, each of them a foot long, is
a 2.ij. to 30s. per 1000. If you have no out-
jou must provide one—a main drain of
:ch pipes at £3 per 1000 is required.—J. D. E

1270.— Moles. — M J. G ” is totally mistaken
to the depredators in his garden. Moles
entirely on earthworms and touch no vege-

6 food whatever. The plunderers are field
°*> who eat bulbous roots wholesale, and are

7 destructive to Primroses this spring. In one

in this garden they have _nqt allowed a
gle flower to come to pmectmu. V

them through and devouring the lower part of
the flowers as soon as they begin to expand.
Trapping is the only remedy. For a full and
interesting account of the mole and its habits,
gardeners should read “ Strange dwellings,” by
the Rev. J. G. Wood, one of the Sunbeam series,
price 6d.—J. D.

11282.— Annuals among Bhrubs.— The
generality of hardy annuals would be suitable if
the shrubs are not so thick as te deprive them
of the necessary amount of light and air. The fol¬
lowing are good kinds: Mignonette, Escbscholtzia,
Saponaria Linium grandiflorum rubrum, Silene
pendula, Limnanthes Douglasi, Bartonia aurea,
Eutoca viscida, Candytuft, and Myosotis dissiti-
tlora.—J. C. B.

11841. — Llllum auratum. — You must exercise
patience for a few weeks longer, when the plants will
probably show above the soil If they do not start into
growth very soon, you may lake It there is something
wrong with them. There is no secret in the manner of
potting, as this is one of the easiest Lilies to grow.—
J. D. E.

11285. — Insects in garden. — I should advise
" Hope” to remove the plants and sow the ground with
lime, afterwards water it with lime water to kill those
insects that remain in the foil then dig and plant. The
Box trees would not have died had they been planted at
ti'e proper season. — G. E. J.

11389 —Sparrows and Pea?.— When I plant a row
of Peas I stretch a single piece of black carpet thread up
the centre of the row and about 2 inches from the
ground. Birds do not notice the black thread, hut hop
against it and with a scream of affright flv off. This
plan I have found effectual for many jtars.—G. H.

11338.—Marechal Niel Bosee.-Roses of all kinds
require abundant supplies of a^r. It is the want of air
that causts mildew, not the opening of ventilators above
them. Top and front ventilators ought to be opened as
freely as poesible.—J. D. E.

11272. — Azaleas not flowering. — I grow my
Azaleas in the greenhoin>e, and I put them out-of doors
in May. I again put them in the greenhouse and repot
them iu August iu peat, leaf-mould, aud silvor sand.
-J. R.

11311.—Woodllc© In frames — The best plan I
have found to get rid of woodlice U to heat an ordinary
saucer and place it in the frame at night with about a
tabletpoonful of turpentine, the fumes of which will
soon clear the insects away.—A. Hatcher.

11313. — Striking Rose cutting 8 .—Rose cuttincs
may be rooted now iu a hotbed, or in July under hand¬
lings kept moist. 1 would refer ‘’T. H." to page 33 in
Gardening of March 29 last.—G. E. J.

Sizes of flowerpots—7 A os C. S .—The following
ij the siz-s of flower-pots-Chiswick standard (inside
measure) :—

Thimbles -
Thumbs - - - • 2 ^
Sixties (fOs) - -3
Fifty-fours (54's) • 4
K. rty eights (I8 ’b) 4£
Thirty-twos(32’s> • 6
Twenty-fours (24’0 8 $

Ins.

diam. Ins.
top. dtep.
- 2 - 2

Ins.

diam. Ins.
top. deep.
Sixtef ns (16’0 - 9* - 9
Twelves (12’s) - 114 -10

K‘ghts( 8 's)

Sixes (6 s) -
Fours (4’s) -
Twos (Z’fc) -

■ 12
■ 13
• 15
' 18

At different potteries different practices prevail, but
tlm above namea and sizes are now adopted almost
universally.

R. T.— Send blooms to some good grower of the Poly¬
anthus, say Mr. Douglai, Great Gearies, Essex, and ask
his opinion of its merits.— A. B. C .—It is against our
rules to recommend any kind of mowing machine or any
maker. It would be inviduous of us to do so. We have
heard both machines you allude to spoken of as being
very good ones.

J ties IK.—No doubt the small blooms are caused by the
premature blooming of the plant, which has been kept
too warm. The wood also wan probably not well ripened

last autumn.- 11. Heather. —A full answer to your

question would take up more space than we could spare,
considering the information would be only useful to a
limited number of our readers.

C. B. B.—Try Cannell <fc Sons, Swanley, Kent.-

Fragola.— Probably you refer to the Arum Lily (Calla
reihiopica.

Names of plants — Joint. Reader.— Send us a frond

of the Fern, an<i we may be able to name it. - A M.—

Probably a seedling ; kindly send us fresh blooms packed
la a little box ; those received were much shrivelled.

- W. B.— Common Daffodil- J. M. D —1. Ompha-

lodes verna ; 2 Lamium maculatuna ; 3, Muscari botry-

oides- E . H.Coz-na , Hardy .— Triteleia uuitlora.-

S'phia.— We cannot name plants from leaves and
pitces of root. Either send a plant or else flowers and
ltaves.

QUERIES.

11391.— Grubs In garden path —The pathB of my
little garden are edged with tiles, on loosening the soil
of the piths close to rhe tiles I find an immense number
oi grubs of a dull grey colour »nd very sluggish in their
movements Is this the grub of daddy Tonglegs and are
they very destructive to plants, such as Pinks, Antirrhi¬
nums, Ac. I sowed some graes seed Iasi spring in the
ceutre which came up very well, but during the winter
it has become very bare and ragged. Is this the work
of the grub, and what is the best remedy ? I lave killed
hundreds of them, but after a few days they are ns
numerous as ever in the same place.—A n Anxious

ENQUIRER.

11392.— Aphides In the garden.— Would any ex¬
perienced correspondent give me advice how best to
destroy aphides in the garden? Last year they made
their appearance first on a Rose tree, and then spread
themselves over the whole of the vegetables in the gar¬
den—Brussels Sprouts, Carrots, Parsnips, Kidney Beans,
and Gooseberry bushes. I have found some already on a
Cineraria which lias been out-of-doors, and I should like
to remedy the neglect which last year cost me so much.—
8 . F.

11393.—Sir gle wild Daffodils becoming
double.—Any reader of Gardening Illustrated who
can give information about this and will give his real
name and address, will much oblige me, the Rev. C.
Wolley Dodd, Edge Hall, Malpas. I am collecting statis¬
tics about it, because it is otten stated that in some soils
the change from single to double really takes place, and,
what is more remarkable, that the wild single English
Daffodil becomes transformed into the large double gar¬
den DaffodiL— C. Wolley Dod.

11394.—Palm flying.—Will someone tell me how I
can revive and ktep a Palm that seems to be fast decay¬
ing? I keep it in a room of ordinary temperature, and
water it with slightly warm water. A short time back I
took it out of the pot as it seemed to be dying, threw- tho
mould away, and put in a mix ure of kr ire 1 g, ashes,
and sand, but, instead of improving it seem wj» be dying
faster thau ever.—J. D. C.

11395.— Flowers all the year round. — 1 b a
nice-sized garden, rather heavy soil, and am nnxioi s u»
have a nice show of flowers all the year round if possible.
How shall I set about it? I have a Email unheated green¬
house, sun on it nearly all day. Would a stove iu it
assist me in propagating ; or must 1 have a forcing house
as w«.ll ? Any advice will oblige.—A Lover of Flowers.

11396.— KeeplDg OleanderB dwarf.-1 have an
Oleander which 1 cut down last autumn, aud I now want
to keep it from growing too high again. Will someone
kindly inform me what 1 ought to do with it, and if it
will flower this year? I know nothing about the manage¬
ment of < de&uders, and will be pleased lor any informa¬
tion.—E rin.

11397.— Roses weak — Last autumn I got some Rore
plants from a nursery. They have Ihrown out a great
many shoots not more than 2 inches in leDgth. Most of
these had buds not larger than half a Pea, which I have
nipped off us they were so w» ak. What ought I to do to
make them flower? I shall be very thankful for any
information. The plants are in pots.—E rin.

11398 —Hyacinths permanently planted.—I
planted thiB autumn a quantity of Hyacinths io a border
round my house. Would it injure them in any way to
leave th*m in the ground from year to 3 ear, us I do not
waut the trouble of tak ng them up and repiantirg them
ever}-year? When planting bulbs is it best to remove
the «.*ffactB ot not ?— 8 . N.

11390.— Planting 1 out Carnations.- 1 Lave a Car¬
nation which I kept in a pot during the winter. I do not
know of what kind it is. The stem is very thick. I saw
it in flower, and the bloom was as large at (hat of a K< se.
Might I plant it out now with safety, and in what kind
of soil?-F ragola.

11400.-Double and single Stocks.- Now toon
is a double Ten-week Stock discerned from a single Stock,
and how? I mean how soon after the seedlings have
been pricked out preparatory to being planted out in
their permanent beds. I want, if possible, to get all the
doubles together.—S. H.

11401.- Splreea japonica — I have some plants of
this in bloom iu a greenhouse; the lust Is about C0“.
They have been w»11 watered, but the tips of the leaves
turn brown, w ither, and drop r ff. If any reader could
tell me the cause, I should be obliged —J. 8 .

11402.— Black funs us. —The plants in my green¬
house are very much affected by a kind of black fungus.
Will someone tell me a cure for it? I wash the pi nts
frequently, but they get covered with it again almost
immediately.—E rin.

11403.—Weeds on path?.— Can anyone recommend
a mode of eradicating weeds in carriage drives and
garden paths? Is there any solution of arsenic sul-
phuiic acid, or other poisonous drug to drive these
torments hence?—W eedbr.

114C4 —Propagating? Genietss.—I have a tree
called Genista. It bears rmall yellow' blossoms rimilir
to tho Laburnum Could any reader Ml me bow to
propagate it? 1 have tried cuttings which look all right
fora time, but eventually wither.—W. H. Jefferies.

11405 — Passion flowers In the open air —Can
the Passion Flower (Pasriflora rcerulea) be grown iu the
open air? I tried to grow it last year, but failed. If
it can be so grown, I would feel Indebted to any reader
who would kindly instruct me?-F ragola.

11406 —Polyanthuses.—I have a great many roots
of Polyanthus, but the flowers although fairly numerous,
are very sh.rt iu the stem, aud the petals appear as if
eaten by insects. What is the cause ?—Fragola.

11407 .— Dodecatheons from peed.— In what
way can I best raise Dodecalh^on media from seed, and
in what s^il and situation would it succeed best ? Does
it need shelter in the winter?—F ragola.

11408 —Propapratlnpf Azaleas-Can any reader
kindly inform me the best way to propagate Azalea
mollis, also the best stock on which to giaft Indian
Azaleas?—C. J.

11409 —Rhubarb bur<? tin £.—Could anyone say
what is the cause of the skin of Rhubarb bursting ?—
W. D.

11410 .—Sowing Fern seed.— Will someone bo kind
enough to tell me now to sow seeds of Pteria serrulata,
or Ribbon Fern ?—K. A. F.

11411.—Mtlllpeds and earthworms— What is
the difference between mlllipeds and wiroworms, an!
are both equally Injurious to plants? F. H.

11412.—Ouliure of Zinnia?.—What is the best time,
situation, and soil lor Zinnia? Can it bo grown liko

Asters in 0 F ILLI IN 01S AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

76

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Ann. 19,HSU

POULTRY.

Brahmas. — Novice .—We do not know that
there is a pin to cbo:se between the light and
the dark varieties of this breed as far as general
utility goes. The only advantage the latter
would possess over the former in your particular
case, would be that the dark plumage is better
adapted for a small run near a town, as it does
not show the dirt much, whereas the light
plumage would quickly get very soiled. The
dark brahma is, we fancy, rather the better
layer of the two, but we may be wrong. Both
are excellent winter layers, and good sitters
and mothers. A pen of Brahmas should not
consist of so many birds as many other varie¬
ties, four hens to one cock is a good number
where the eggs are used for sitting. Of course,
where they have unlimited Grass run, more
hens may be allowed the male bird. We are
afraid you have left it too late in the year for
successful hatching, as by the time you have
got your birds and hatched y^ur first lot of
chicken May will be far advanced. It is use¬
less expecting late batched birds to mature into
fine specimens. February or, at latest, March
is the right time for hatching Brahmas. We
should procure the hens from one good breeder
and the cock from another, so that ihere be no
relationship. Do not go in for cheap stock
birds. It is nonsense to imagine that you can
breed good birds for anything but the best of
parents, and these latter, like every other mar¬
ketable domestic live stock, are sure to fetch
their value. If you gave 103. each for the
pullets and £1 for the cock you ought to obtain
good birds, but even at that price do not
imagine you are going to get prize winners.
We certainly think the Brahma fowl in many
respects superior to the CochiD, although it is
closely allied to that variety. Terhaps its
greatest superiority is as a table fowl, and we
have no hesitation in saying it is a better layer
You appear surprised that there are not more
than two varieties of the Brahma, whereas there
are quite half a dozen of the Cochin, all vary¬
ing in colour of plumage. We hope fanciers
will never attempt to produce so many with the
Brahma, it only means sacrifice of general
utility.— And a lusian.

Sick poultry. —E —The first case men¬
tioned by you,in which the hen mopes about
and refuses to eat, is, unless any signs of

disease are present, that of consumption. The
most general cause of this debility and wasting

away is found in breeding from the same stock
year after year. Therefore if you desire to
prevent your chickens from all going the same
way, you will, before hatching more, procure a
little fresh blood, say a cockerel or two, from
some other breeder. Chronic cough or cold often
ends in the gradual wasting away of the victim.
We should confine the hen in a warm, dry place,
and give half a teaspoonful of Parrish’s chemical
food (any chemist will supply it) morning and
evening. Feed on the very best, including meat
or chopped egg—in fact, anything which you
think will strengthen the bird The second
case, in which a cold is very apparent by the
rattling in the throat, will probably end in con¬
sumption. Treat as above, adding a little
glycerine and nitric acid to the drinking water.
Give soft food only, plentifully sprinkled with
cayenne pepper.— Andalusian.

Leg weakness in fowls.— The peculiar
growth of the scales on the legs of your fowls,
which stood out and formed knotty lumps just
above the feet, was nothing whatever to do with
leg weakness or rheumatism. It is a disease
called Elephantiasis, and is the work of an
insect under the scales. It is not at all dan¬
gerous, end, unless appearance be studied, may
be left alone. It is, however, easily cured by
first washing the feet well in strong soda water
and soft soap, using a nail brush freely, and
picking off with the fingers all pieces of scales
which come off easily. Then anoint well with
sulphur ointment, or a preparation known as
4 ‘ Foster’s ointment.” Two or three such treat¬
ments will generally effect a cure. —Andalu¬
sian.

Fowls not laying.— IF.— We can only
suggest that the fowls you purchased were old
ones, or you would surely have obtained more
eggs from pullets when once they commenced to
lay. Youf feeding is vefy .good, and you did

decidedly of the opinion that it is not fit for
laying stock, except in very small quantities.
We should give three meals a day in your case,
as the birds have no chance of picking up any¬
thing, but the mid-day meal must only be a
slight one, say half a handful of light grain per
head. Do not be alarmed at the time taken by
the Andalusian hen in laying, as although two
hours and a half is certainly a long time to be
on the nest, yet as long as she does lay and
looks none the worse for it, you had better let
well alone.—A ndalusian.

Young pigeons.—I think that the reason that
“THU H.” cannot breed pigeons Is that they are
bothered with vermin. Whitewash the nests and put a
little carbolic acid in the whitewash or uao “ Sanitas,
which can be had from almost any chemist. Or ho may
have rata about; if so, use some cement and broken Rlass
to stop any holes that may be found. — R. T. llKCKBTT.

Cochin fowls.—I keep pore bred buff Cochins, and
this year find that, although my hens at first laid dark-
brown eggs, now the eggs are qntto light and not at all
like usual Cochin eggs. Can any reader tell mo whv this
Is? I keep my hens in a large run, part of which is
covered in. and they have plenty of green food every
day.-TouY.

GoodThings&Good Plants

MEW GERANIUMS of 1883 (Peanon’s).-Ida

LN Walters Octavl*, Mrs. Robeitaon. Alcidei. Herminiua,
Omphale, Orestes, Daphne. Is. 3d. each, the set for 8s.; cut¬
tings hair price. ___

MhW DOUBLE JNAblUKllUM, now ready,

is as double as a Rose. No amafcaur should he without
tMs oh aunlng p lant T hree plants I s. ; 2s 6 1. per dozen.

M^WaBUI lLONS, 1S83 (George).-Emperor.

ll Lustrous. Scarlet Gem. purpim-a. Brilliant Kiu* of
Ros?b, Is. 6d. each, 7s. 6d. the set; 12 choice selected kinds.

4* ; 6 la fid .___

AURICULAS. -Nice sturdy plant* from a

XX choice collection of a Udms 3 - dozen ; 6 Is. 9 I. ; 3. Is.

THE TWO BEST WINDOW

± itiebnm eetoeum and rAtcmium^

Chester.

ETARDY ORCHIDS.—12 choice khwh, odj
n lng six exotic, with cultural Instructions, mmpO
for l» -V. W. ft H . 8TANBFIBLD, Bala. Ptwl

N readv. with engravings of new and rare Tinea!
par-d specially for this Catalogue In the mUto of
Ferns this Catalogue is declared h 7 high antbcnhrtbkl
superior to any other trad* list yet i sued Port free Siud

—F w. a H. 8Ta.NBFIF .LD. Sale Cheshire-_

TTAR1EGATED-LE A V ED PLANTS, 4eJ
V 15*. per 100 4i. pv dozen 6d. each.-Hamjisdjd
sorts, including sever d variegated Dentmrt

double,whit* double, variegated leaved; Hydrangea nd
Jasminum fruticana and officinale; 8pinri im
semperfl . and Thunbergl; Rosemary. Ull burkr M
ball; Per'winkle, new silver leaved and double ic* M
Lilac, white, Ac , Ac.; 12 vara, fine varteg rtedlwsl m
plants. Ac.. Ac.; Vienna, dwarf, aid Orensdin Cwarf
Pamburas in vars.. variegated and other*, rtrotf.Ysft
strong, 6*. dozen ; Fan Palms, 10s. dox-n; lllarnipiJ
II. 80fclltELZKR A OO . 71. Waterloo Rtreet.0>*»r* If
on own roots and grafted. VioUta fineit tin* tsdlfl
Panries. tingle name d Dahli as. Hollyhocks fi nestnajj

MUSICAL HOMEl

THE “ ORCHESTRONE”

Price 2a. each, or 20 Stamps. Carriage 1st
A Sarj.lt irJfwiS,
Carriage Fth M
fndy «Uct'd pwr *
wH :k ctmbttmapii
as dtsirti.

MEW NASTURTIUM FLAME, quite a

IN novelty, brilliant ecarlet bloom' at every point.
This variety is for training_2 plants Is 6d.

N

EW SINGLE D \HLIA8.—My oollectioi of

,re the bast In coanaeroe. 3i. doz.. 6 for la 9d.

ft EKANlUMS of Sterling Merit -SO pltnts iu

U to varinitf. 10*.; 25 6a; 12. 3s. ; 12 Tmctiea for
winter 11 >omlng Is . 6^2s 31 : onttiogi half price. _

N EVV FUGfclSIAS, 1883, now ready.-Beauty

Of Cliff' Usll. Tory's R'val, Mr* Bright. Mrs King,
Harriet Lye Thomas King These • re grand additions : the
set 4s , Is. each I can aU i supply the new Fuchsias Presi¬
dent Magnum Bonum, and Mrs. Ruudle 91.- the 3 Is. cd.
12 Choice Djublo 2a. 6d., 12 Choice Single 2s 6d.; cutting*
half price. ___

(UTARGUERITES, Blue Yellow, and White,

LV1 flan vat ieties iB doz, 6 1* 91, 3 Is Heliotropes
Garfield, White Lady, and other choice sorts 2a. 6d. dez , 6
Is 6d„ 3 la. _

N EW IVY-LEAF PELARGONIUM8.—Cut¬
tings warranted to name - MadamcB<’rou83e, Am»
Pfitzer, Comte de Choiseul, Mdlle. f mile Galle Glolre
d Orleans. Mdlle. Jeanne Wouters. Lucie Lerooine. Sarah
Bernhardt, M Dubus, Comtesse Choiseul. Mr*. H Cannell.
Kontg Albert Three. lsJkL ; sir. 2s. ; twelve, 3s__

PURGE l’ ME-NOi’.—The variety here offered
JT blooms from May till November ; intense blue, very
large truis. thrives best in a shady poition on a heavy soil
h’re noth ing e'se will thrive 2s. 6d dozen; A, Is fid. _

i/EmBeNA, Ice Plant, Ageraium, lre ine

v Liudeni, Coleus new Vio-is, Lobeb'a b^t dirk blue.

summer flowering Chrys anthemums, la. fd d( m_

PLoWER SEEDS.—Genuine seeds iu penny

-L packets and upwards, 100 packets. 7s.; fO, 4a ; 12, lr. ;
AH post free.____

lay.

D well to

. J A M E

FLORIST AND SEEDSMAN,

South Knighton , Leicester.

1 L) PACKETS FLOWER SEEDS, pobt free

1/v Is., including Asters, Stacks, Ba’sams, Nemophila,
Canterbury Bell Wallflower, Phlox Drummondi. Cyanus
minor. Mignonette, Soarlet Limun, Nasturtiums, fto — 8. B.
CROSS, 440. Borough Road, Birkenhead_

QUTTON’S CLUSTER CUCUMBER PLANTS,

O 8d. each; Tomato plants. 2s. per doz. (largo): Alters,
Stocks, Phlox. Cyanus minor. Marigold, Nicotian* tfflnie, 6d.
per doz.: great variety or bedding plants cheap; Palms Lita-
nia boibonica, 3 feet high, 3*. to clear : all carriage free —
8. B CROSS. Penuby Nirsery, Borough Road. Birkenhead.

The Orrh^tr.M ■ i
and chvncitf iaSre
that any ten*, cu
with >ut stoiiy or EC
thus the pawn* is
tve ames eo in eqs J2J'
prscticil ma«:ei*c»
UomUg anoteo/m
. The orchertr.TM cw 14.
a’teri daudwJja'V'i. ‘a
that 'he roeioO rJ 4l
may b** deep sop-hI;
Vio T onoello, plaintive aa the Flute, or aielotom •»
Clarionet te.

The price of the Orcheetraao placer it with o tbs «Mj
all and no homo can be dull wheie one’s fawmitUanil
eifkrr sacred, operatic, dance or tong) can fallow nci
a* frecjutnily as de»ired .

The Oichojtione harmonises beautifully with tt- r

Harp, o* Violin and i* not affected by a damp sin r,^

it is alfo very compact end nicety pcli*bed<» tfciCiMrt
Address :

AKTH11R FOSTER, Secrctirj,

The English Orohestrone Comptty.
Works: WOOD GREEN. LONDON '

DOG BISCUITS

I

__I

BUY DIRECT FROM THE MAHUfAG-— -
SAVE EXORBITANT PROFIT* I

MEAT DOG BISCUITS.,

PLAIN

lk |» d-

_• I

Quantities of 5 cwt. and upward', la N T *
Tei me : Cash on Delivery. ^

The above are warraktxd made fro®
some materialr, the flour being precisely the
our fine ship biscuits.

Free on rail at Liverpool, or carriao* paH> (

in the kingdom, la. 6d. per cwt. ex'ra

HENRY WRIGHTS

(Late Wright and SouthelL)

Established 1810. :

SHIP BISCUIT MANUFACTURE

LIVE EPOOL

Wolk * : V ^ N m^^oSa«K BS k

MAN HIROWN TI«6|fcS

DVERk maim mouwit

L iiig Tools, free by parcels post, lx Std--TB£‘
TOOL OO.. Aston. Birmingham._-—

DEVONSHIRE FERNS, named varieties.

: for Is. 6d., larger plants 6d. extra, with separate cultural
instructions for each sort, and particulars of the soil it grows
beat in, suitable for pots or outdoor culture. Maiien-hsir
(Aaplenium Trichomanes), black Maidenhair (Aspleuium
Adiantum rigrum). Plants with good crowns and roots and
instructions, la. per dozen. All securely packed In Btrong
bo x, poet free.-JAMES OGILVIE, Barnstaple. __

King's New Coleuses for 1884 Now ready
BLI EN TERRY, First-claw Certificate R.H.S., qui'e
new in colour, very distinct, 5s. each.

HENRY IRVING, First-class Certificate R.H.S.,
richest coloured variety yet raised, f>s. each.

J. L. TOOLE, very novel in colour, quite the gem, 5s.
each.

J. K can supply nice plants of his most popular varieties of
1881, 1883. and 1883 at 6s. per dozeu, post free, whioh are ac¬
knowledged to be the most lovely Coleuses in cultivation.
The usual discount to the trade. Cash with order. List of
Coleuses on application. — Address. JA8. KING, Seed
Grower and Florin*. Rowsham. Aylesbury, Bucks._

rof >)ahe. are

O.ESTIANA ACAULIS, 3s. 3d. 100 r scarlet
vT Tropteoluni, 93. each ; Pink, 8pinea, 9d. each.—G « It
DKNBB. J,Un*.lcll, Arro»«h. . ,T3« - .

■ ; URBANA-CHAM

CLAYS
FERTILISE!

Is the Manure that is med by all fbepncf
Nurserymen, Market Growers, and W 10
throughout the United Kingdom-

< lbs. 14 lbs. Wiba GSHi- 1 ;

Pkts. Is., bags 2s. 6d. 4s 6d 7s. 6d. 12s. M- ;

CLAY & LEVESLBY.

Ttmple Mill Lane, St ratford, Lon^

1 ^*

Save 70 per cent.
RIDING HORTH
WindliUl, Yorksfcir-.

Illostrated

ift

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

78

gardening illustrated

[April 26, 1884.

Nonpareil, Reinette du Canada, Kerry Pippin,
Northern Spy, Fearn’s Pippin, Court Pendu Plat,
Dutch Mignonne, Duke of Devonshire.

Cocking Apples.— Alfriston, Annie Elizabeth,
Keswick Codlin, Hawthornden, Lord Saffield,
Monk’s Codlin, Stirling Castle, Cellini, Stone’s
Apple, Blenheim Orange, Kentish Fillbasket,
Striped Beaufin, Dumelow’s Seedling, Warner’s
King, Norfolk Beaufin, Yorkshire Greening,
Ecklinville Seedling, Waltham Abbey Seedling,
Small’s Admirable, Bedfordshire Foundling,
Cox s Pomona, Hoary Morning, Northern Green¬
ing, Rymer, Winter Majetin, M&re de Manage,
Hambledon Deux Ans. E. Hobday.

INDOOR PLANTS.

CULTURE OF GARDENIAS.
Gardenia intermedia is the variety in most
general cultivation. Whether the name is
correct or not, I cannot say ; but it is so far truly
descriptive, that G. intermedia is about midway
in size between G. Fortunei and G. florida. G.
Fortunei is without doubt the noblest Gardenia
in cultivation ; but then, as a rule, it blooms but
sparsley, yielding but one flower, while inter¬
media or florida will yield a dozen. G florida is
also most floriferous, but it is too small for the
present fashion for button-holes. When the latter
return, as they probably will, to their normal
and more reasonable dimensions, G. florida, and
even radicans—the latter now so seldom seen—
will probably have a great future before them a9
button-hole flowers. For the present, however,
G. intermedia, which is all that can be desired
in purity and fragrance as well as in size, is in
full fashion. It is well, however, to bear in mind
that size of flower as well as floriferousness are
to a very large extent matters of culture. It is
no uncommon thing to see the self-same sort in
different gardens of widely different sizes. A
liberal regimen develops size; a starving one
dwarfs it more in the matter of Gardenias than
in regard to other flowers. Apart from rich soils
or stimulating manures, even the mere addition
cr witholding of heat and moisture may enlarge
cr cut down the size of Gardenia blooms one-
halE or more. The particular question of the
most suitable

Temperature

for Gardenias can hardly be said to be settled
within 20°. In other words, the most successful
cultivators range from 70° to 90°. With a moist
atmospere and plenty of water at the roots the
latter is by no means excessive. With a semi-
saturated atmosphere it is a fact difficult to
overheat Gardenias, and time is gained as well
as size developed under what may be called a
forcing treatment. Gardenias also seem filled
with a fuller fragrance when thus rapidly de¬
veloped. It must, however, be noted that a high
temperature apart from a moist atmosphere is
specially injurious, and results in bud dropping
and heavy crops of scale, spider, or mealy bug.
Flowering.

Floriferousness is also largely a matter of
manipulation of culture. Gardenia blooms
should never be cut with their branches attached,
but each picked off separately, and for this
obvious reason. It is the natural habit of
Gardenia Bhoots to produce three or more shoots
from the base of each flower bud; cut the
flower with its branch and all these are removed:
Pick the flower out with its elongated leaves
intact, and the whole of these shoots grow into
flowering branchlets furnished with a terminal
flower-bud. By careful attention to this appa¬
rently small matter, Gardenia plants advance in
proliferousness by the rapid leaps and bounds of
multiples, by threes or more. Thus the one Bhoot
becomes three, the three nine, the nine
twenty-seven, and so on. In this way are
flowers not only multiplied, but the plants ad¬
vance in bulk. Nor is this process of multipli¬
cation only repeated once a year, but twice.
For the whole tendency of the present high and
forcing culture of Gardenias is to compel the
plants to yield two crops a year instead of one,
as well as to have both crops finer and more
plentiful than they used to be. In relation to
this

Second Crops op Bloom,
the saving of time incidental to high and fore-
ing culture becomes of the greatest importance.
For example, assuming,the first crow of flowers
to be gathered in March. &J9'ipolyyoE wood may

be made and sufficiently ripened to vield a
second crop in September and October. Neither
is it found in practice that the autumn or winter
bloom seriously lessens or injures the spring
flowering of the plants. The demand for Gar¬
denias has now become so great that no doubt
a continuous supply will have to be forthcoming.
Cultivation, however, can hardly be said to have
yet. reached this stage, though it is seldom that
a stray Gardenia bloom cannot be found in
Covent Garden or other markets. But the chief
seasons at present are the early spring and late
autumn, and it is a wondrous advance on the
ancient culture of these plants, that resulted as
a rule, in a scanty supply of blooms once a year,
to have forced them to yield two plentiful
harvests within the twelve months. In
several respects, too, this second harvest
is better, as well as more valuable than
the first. The first is very apt to come in with
a rush. There is a prodigality of Gardenias suc¬
ceeded by a famine, the flowers seemingly pre-
fering to run in abreast in battalions many
hundreds strong. We have a magnificent feast
of Gardenias,succeeded sometimes within a short
lime by a complete fast. A good deal may be
done to prolong the feast by haviDg several
small pits or houses instead of one larger one,
as well as by growing Gardenias in pots. But grow
them how or where we may, Gardenias have a
strong tendency to bloom abreast in the spring.
But in autumn this inconvenient tendency is
far less pronounced, and the plants unfold their
harvest of sweetness and beauty in a more
leisurely way, extending it over two months or
more. The advantages of this habit of con¬
tinuous blooming in the autumn or winter can
hardly be over-estimated. But, it may be asked,
is nothing more than liberal diet and forcing
conditions of temperature and atmosphere need¬
ful to insure this double harvest of Gardenia
blossoms within the year ? Yes, a rest is need¬
ful, and some cultivators also think a lightening
of the spring load of bloom useful in adding to
the numbers and size of the autumnal ones.
Whether this is needful or would prove useful
depends on the strength of the plants.
Where these are vigorous and in robust
condition the dual crop does not seem to hurt
them. As to the so-called rest, it is only com¬
parative. The plants should be kept somewhat
cooler and drier for about a month or six weeks.
Much more air should also be given during the
resting period. This tends to harden and con¬
solidate the growth of embryo flower buds, and
also makes them more sensitive to respond to
heat and moisture when these are given, so that
really time is saved and not lost in the forcing
of Gardenias by an interregnum of rest between.
The question of bottom-heat or no heat for Gar¬
denias may be said to be still in suspense. They
are equally well grown and bloomed without and
with bottom-heat. In all cases, however, in
which the harvests of bloom are expected from
the same plants within the year bottom-heat
should be provided. Bottom-heat, in fact, may
be said to be the very key of the position of a
rapid and safe start. With the roots sufficiently
moist and in vigorous health a bottom-heat of
from 75° to 85° may not only be applied with
safety, but with the happiest results in hasten¬
ing the development of the buds and their full
expansion with perfect blooms. D

DIELYTRAS IN POTS.

Dielytra spectabilis (sometimes called the
Bleeding Heart) may be said to be one of the
most useful hardy plants we have, and one
especially suited for pot culture, though even in
the coldest parts of Yorkshire it flowers freely
outdoors. It is, however, of its merits as a pot
plant I am going to speak. The best season to
have it in flower is from February to the end of
April. It is a plant that dislikes over-forcing,
under which it assumes a weakly, drawn ap-
pearance. To have it in good form it should be
strong and healthy, and should produce long
trusses of its peculiar shaped and handsome
flowers in abundance. Plants of it for forcing
should be lifted from the open ground in mild
weather, as if frosty both its crowns and large
thick roots will be broken. When gently forced
and allowed plenty of time in which to make
growth the stems become strong and sturdy,
and are not liable to get damaged when the
plants are removed from place to place. They
should, however, be staked, an operation which

should not be deferred too long, or the *tem«
are apt to become twisted and broken. Fur
room embellishment or dinner-table decoratir-:
Dielytras are very effective, or they may bt
arranged in masses in the conservatory. The
most effective way of displaying their graceful
flowering wreaths is to have the plant* suffi¬
ciently elevated for the eye to view them from
below. At Eastertide we have had 700 or 800
plants all in full flower at one time. Those whe
have a stock of it should prize it and grow &
quantity of it in pots. If any injury arises, it
is done after the flowering season is over. In¬
stead of the growths made indoors being
gradually hardened off, the plants are either
planted out regardless of the weather, or, what
is still worse, laid upon their sides and kept in
an unnaturally dry state.

As regards soil, a mixture of good loam with
a little sand, leaf-mould, and peat answers ad¬
mirably, the last three forming about oce-thirc
of the bulk of the loam. When planted in
borders the soil should be light and friable.

D. W.

CAMELLIAS AFTER FLOWERING.
March, April, and May are the months during
which the majority of Camellias make their
growth and form their bloom buds, and the
more luxuriant and substantial we can make
these growths now the greater in both quantky
and size will the blooms be. A proper condition
of the roots is one of the main promoters of suc¬
cess, without which other attentions will prove
unavailing. I must, therefore, especially im¬
press upon all who desire to have their Camellia
plants in the finest possible condition the neces¬
sity of looking to their roots at the outset, and
then by proper attention afterwards success will
be ensured. While making its growth we know
of no hard-wooded plant which will stand water¬
ing at the root more freely than the Camellia?,
and where the drainage is in good working order
water should be applied nnstintingly. Whether
in pots or planted out, aridity at the roots or in
the atmosphere is an evil of the greatest magni¬
tude in the case of Camellias. The soil in which
our Camellias luxuriate is never really dry at
any time, but it is extra wet during the growirg
season, and it would be satisfactory to me if the
leaves could be kept wet night and day at this
time. As it is, they are heavily syringed morairg
and evening, and the ground underneath is
always humid—indeed, almost steaming. Under
these conditions the young growths are pro¬
duced in clusters of from four to a dozen, a*
thick as a quill, in length from 8 inches to 12
inches, and all with at least one and many with
five and six bloom buds. One or other of half a
dozen plants in the conservatory begin to open
their blooms in October, as they did last year,
and now in April there is still some fine blooms
opening. Where many cut flowers are in demand
a good supply of Camellia blooms is very accept¬
able, and the plants are well worth all the
attention we can give them during the
Growing Season
as well as at all other times. All kinds of dirt
and insects should cleared off the old wood
before the young growths have made much pro¬
gress. When in bloom it is difficult to syringe
them without blemishing the flowers. As a rale
this operation has to be stopped during the
flowering season, and then the plants sometimes
become unclean; in all such cases it is well to
have them thoroughly cleaned before the young
leaves are formed. Sponging is one of the surest
ways of cleaning them, but it is rather tedious,
and where dirt and insects are not very hard and
fast heavy syringings will remove the greater
part. In the case of Camellias which are
planted out, of course they are stationary, and
cannot be moved into any particular atmosphere,
but this need be no drawback against their per¬
fect development, as they will just grow as
freely and more satisfactorily in an ordinary
greenhouse or conservatory than in any vinery or
hot, steaming place. When the plants are in pots
or boxes, they are generally shifted into some
other bouse to make their growth different from
that in which they have been blooming, but a
very hot house should always be avoided in 6uch
cases. There is no denying that Camellias will
make long shoots in a close heated, shady atmos¬
phere, but the finest flowering plants will never
be produced in such ti place. A temperature of
50° at night and 70° by day with pun heat is

^BANA-CHAMPAIGN

April 26 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

79

nost suitable to the substantial growth and
perfect development of the wood and buds of
he Camellia. A liberal admission of fresh air
m fine days does them much good, as the growth
i then rendered firm from the first, and its
horough ripening early in the season is an ab¬
solute certainty. Apart from securing plenty of
ffood and buds, the

BiP eking op the Wood
is of the utmost importance, and too much at¬
tention cannot be given to this, as imperfectly
opened flowers and buds dropping prematurely
are some of the results of dealing with unripe
wood. It is now many years since one of our
Camellia plants was shaded during the growing
season, and the advantages of full exposure to
the son at this stage has been proved to us over
and over again. At first we were half afraid
that the plants, and particularly the young
tender growths, would be scorched and ruined,
bat nothing of the kind occurred; on the con¬
trary, when fully exposed to the healthy influ¬
ence of the sun's rays, the wood was shorter
; minted and the leaves thicker and deeper green
than we could manage to get them in ibe shade.
In the case of shaded plants the sun often plays
sad havoc; those in charge of them are generally
very particular in shading them at first, but by-
and-by when more exposed the tender leaves
nourished in the shade become blotched and
spotted by the sun or through exposure to
draughts There is nothing more satisfactory
than sturdy growth produced in the full beat of
the sun and with plenty of dean water at the
roots. With the latter in proper order there is
nothing to fear. The earliest wood will, as a
rule,give the earliest blooms, and when Camellia
Hovers are wanted in October and November,
early growth and early ripening of the wood
will supply these without much difficulty. When
once the bloom buds have beca formed syringing
felnuld cease and more air should be given, but
bat nothing like a dryer state of the roots should
follow. C.

11377.— Clematises In pota —These can
be grown well in pots, if good turfy loam, with
some peat, say a third, and deoayed stable
manure is added to the loam. The plants require
potting on as they progress in development.
For instance, you would purchase good plants
with growths two yards long in 6-inch and
6 inch pots. Before they start into growth in
the spring they should be repotted into 8-inch
pots. That will be sufficient for that year. The
following spring repot them again into 10^-inch
pots, and again the following season into 13-
inch pots. If they do well, each plant will produce
numbers ef large handsome flowers; but the
shoots most he carefully trained and well ex¬
posed to the light. They are best trained to a
trellis near the glass.—J. D. E.

—- “ London Amateur ” will, I think, find
no difficulty in growing Clematises in pots in
his conservatory. A strong, rich, turfy loam
•nits them best. As to method of training,
s balloon-shaped wire frame is the best. Do
nottnin the shoots up straight, but twine them
rousd the trellis. Lay in the shoots pretty close
to cover the frame well. A little manure water
•hould be given onoe a week after the flowers
inset— W. Phillips, Boole, Chester.

11381.—Pruning Azaleas —It is not a
8°°d plan to prune Indian Azaleas, although it
nay be done sometimes if plants have become
**7 leggy. The best time to do it is just before
the plants start to make their new growth.
& 0D g vigorous growing shoots mast be stopped
when in growth ; they will then throw oat two
or three weaker ones. This is necessary to
equalise the flow of sap. Sometimes the same
object U gained by tying down a too vigorous
powth. The plant itself is trained into any
tying down, or tying out the growths,
be bosh form Is the best, as it is the most
bitural—J. D. E.

THE SUMMER SNOWFLAKE.

(LEUCOJUM JESTIVUM )

This is a handsome and graceful plant, some¬
what like a tall and vigorous Snowdrop ; 1 foot
to 1£ feet high. It flowers in spring and early
summer; pare white, the tip of each petal being
marked with green both inside and out, droop¬
ing, in a cluster of four to eight bloom-*, each
about an inch long. Its leaves are Daff>dil-
like, and are shorter than the fliwer-stem,
appearing in winter before the flowers. It is a
native of Central and Sooth Europe, but natu¬
ralised in Britain. This plant, found on the
banks of the Thames about Woolwich and
Greenwich, and in a few other places, is
deserving of a place in every garden, either as
a border plant or naturalised with the more
vigorous kinds of Daffodils in grassy places.
It grows freely in almost any soil, and is easily
increased by separation of the bulbs. The bulbs
can be obtained in autumn when the leaves have
died down.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

Bdgonlas for bedding.— Those who
would wish to succeed with tuberous Begonias
in the open air should not start them in heat or
rely upon young plants raised in spring from
seed. These latter will bloom fairly well, but
not with sufficient freedom to render them

gonias; they do not like it; rather mix a few
handfuls of some fertiliser with the soil—some
powerful, yet safe stimulant.—0. B.

11372.— Lobelia3 for cuttings— These
are readily propagated in that way; indeed,
by no other means can the stock be kept true.
Take the cuttings off by catting the yoang
growths undsr a leaf; cut off the three lower
leaves on each cutting, acid insert them in fine
sandy soil. They strike very freely in a hotbed.
Peach blossoms on a wall require protection,
and this is best done by patting ap some screen
canvas Both top and bottom should be bound
round with strong taps or matting. Stout poles
should be laid in a sloping position against the
wall, the thick end to be inserted a foot in the
ground, the other end being nailed to the wall
under the coping. One side of the protecting
material should be nailed to the wall under the
coping aUo. The poles alluded to may be
4 yards apart and 2 feet 6 inches from the base
of the wall. A stout piece of string should be
nailed to the top of the poles to fasten round
the protecting material when it is rolled np.
When it is let down, one nail to each pole will
bo auffijicnt to hold it in its place.—J. D. E.

11363 —Hardy flowsra for border.—

As the border is not a large one the flowers
might be very choice. In open winters as the
last, the Heart's ea^e (Pansies) flower all through
the winter, and by a little management they

Group of Bummer Snowflake (Leucojum a-stivum) on the margin of a shrubbery.

really effective, neither will they come into
flower until quite late in the season. Yoang
plants should be set out in good soil in June, so
that they make good growth, and the following
year they will be in prime condition for bedding
out. Started in heat, they require mnch care in
hardening off, and I do not think they are ever
so robust or grow away with such freedom as
when allowed to start naturally. It is also a
bad plan to pot the tubers, as more labour and
worse results are thereby incurred. Most culti¬
vators consider the potting of plants which have
eventually to be planted out to be an evil, and
there iB no donbt about its being so in the case
of Begonias, as rooting naturally when strong
very freely, they are apt to form coils of roots,
and the soil becomes matted with fibres before
they can be turned oat of their pots. A far
better plan is to set the tnbers ont at once in
good, free, rather light soil in a cold frame in a
sunny position far enongh apart that they may
have room enongh to develop until the time
oomes for their removal into the open air. A
frame is far better than a cool greenhouse, as
the lights can be pushed off on fine days and
left off on fine nights. Growth thus made will
Mioe and garden crops.— Last year our not be so rapid as when the plants are kept
^en being a new one was over-run with mice, closer, but it will be of greater substance and
*bich nearly destroyed all the Crocuses. The in every way better fitted to withstand the vari-
!la ple remedy of strewing sawdust over Cro- able weather we so often experience during the
Md their favourite foods, soon got early summer months. Lifted carefully and
them, and this year they have vanished, placed in position promptly, there will be no
1 kept fo " la and pigeons I found a flagging and scarcely any check; watered in
^r&i o*e of RAwdn«f. in th* hnnooa rrnt i-M nf a I well should the weather prove dry, the roots will

^ay hold of the gronnd in the coarse of forty-
eight hoars. Do not use raw manure for Be-

plgeons

a * e *»"dust in the houses got rid
g-V They diiJfke' the snel

: y Y_l O

und a flags
id of_a

gfe

flower all the year round. Plant them in the front
row. Crocnses and Snowdrops for early spring,
alto the spring and summer Snowflakes. Tulips
and Hyacinths are also very showy flowers for the
spring months. A selection of the Daffodils is
also indispensable. N. minor and pumilus are
excellent in the front row, while the showy
Codlings and Cream, the chaste and elegant
Poet's Narcissus (single and double forms), the
golden N. maxiums, also the bicolor Holfordi,
and the better form grown under the name of
Empress. The Emperor Daffodil is also very
desirable. A group or two of N. tortuosus adds
variety. The kind named N. princess is hand¬
some, and distinct group3 of showy Iris, stately
Delphiniums, Phloxes, Pyrethrums, Lupinus
bicolor, gorgeous Lilies, and for the latest the
Michaelmas Daisies. If the winters were mild
yon might have such a border with something
or other in flower all the year ronnd. The
spring-flowering Anemones such as A. nemorosa
in variety, A blanda, the late-flowering A. appe-
nina, the brilliant A. fulgens, and the summer¬
flowering A. alpina, and the variety snlphnrea
are handsome border plants.—J. D. E.

Trlteleias —The varieties of these are but
few, the earliest being T. uni flora, which has
been in bloom in the open borders here for the
past month, large clamps of it making qnite a
show. We have also found it very useful for
pots for the embellishment of the greenhonse,
as when taken np in the autum and kept in
frames it flowers early, and is valuable for associa¬
ting with Primulas, Cyclamens, and other low-
growing things of-that clasn. ( ^[taking iup the""
bnlb 3 For

80

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[April *26, 1884

should be seleoted, and when they have done
blooming they may either be turned out in the
border to grow on again for another year or
kept in pots; but if kept in pots, it is necessary
to continue watering them when they require it
so as to maintain the leaves fresh till the time
arrives for them to ripen and die away naturally.
The soil in which Triteleia uniflora does best
outdoors is a light sandy one, and in this the
bulbs increase at a rapid rate, and the plants
flower with the greatest of freedom. T. laxa,
the finest of all the genus, is a real gem, as it
sends up large many-flowered heads of bloom
after the manner of the well-known Agapanthus,
which in form and character they much resemble,
but in colour they are of a rich Tyrian purple,
so that altogether they are very choice, and
come in admirably for cutting to furnish vases,
or for working up in bouquets. At present T.
laxa is somewhat scarce, as unfortunately it is
not so free as the above-named, and is slow of
increase except from seed, and plants raised in
that way are some years before they are strong
enough to flower. — S.

Chrysanthemums out-of-doors.—

riant in a good soil and keep the plants securely
staked from the first. They are increased by
means of cuttings and division in spring, and it
is well to provide a new stock every year, des¬
troying the old stock when a sufficient number
of cuttings has been obtained. In order to in¬
sure fine flowers, the soil should be well manured
and the plants freely watered, and the shoots
should be reduced to six for each plant at the
utmost. The top flower-bud on each shoot should
alone be allowed to remain after the buds have
become fairly visible. Though stopping does in¬
crease the number of shoots, yet it causes the
plants to flower later than they would do if not
stopped. Very much has been said about stop¬
ping. It may be well to mention here that
Chrysanthemum* for out-of-doors ought never
to be stopped. Some of the best Chrysanthe¬
mums are : Early-flowering varieties—Aureole,
Bois Davall, Bolide, Fred Pelh, Gold Button,
Nanum, Jardin des Plantes, Chromatella, Pr6-
cocit6, and St. Mary. Large-flowering varieties
—Annie Salter, Emblem, White Globe, John
Salter, Sam Weller, Progne, and Prince Alfred.
Pompones - General Canrobert., Rose d’Amour,
White Trevenoa, Brown Cedo Nulli, and Kenil¬
worth.—A. E. H.

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK.
Glasshouses.

The earliest tuberous Begonias will now be fast
approaching the flowering state, and should
receive a liberal amount of air in order to keep
them dwarf and stocky, a condition that will
ensure them a long season of beauty. Young
Cyclamens that were sown in autumn will now
be best grown on in close frames, giving them
very liberal treatment all through the growing
season, when they will make fine blooming
plants by autumn. Others sown early in spring
will now require pricking out into pans in rich
light soil, and should be kept growing in warm
quarters. Push on a good batch of Amarantus
salicifolius and A. tricolor; those will be found
useful in the conservatory by-and-by. Attend
carefally to Vallotas now that they have com¬
menced growing, and endeavour to get a good
development of healthy foliage on them. These
will now require close frame treatment, but
expose them to all the sunshine possible, to give
substance to the foliage and an early ripeness to
the bulbs. Anyone requiring a beautiful minia¬
ture basket plant for a small conservatory or a
Wardian case should now divide Sibthorpia
europma variegata, and place it in small baskets
or pans, over the edges of which it will grow
and show its beautiful habit and variegation to
perfection. Where only one house is devoted
to stove plants it will be necessary to make use
of heated frames for forwarding young soft-
wooded stock.

Most of the winter-blooming plants will now
do equally well in warm frames as in the stove.
These should now be pushed forward rapidly,
and as fast as they fill their pot with roots should
be moved into pots a size larger. Maintain a
moist atmosphere around them, and shade
moderately during bright weather, closing up
early on fine days. Quantities of fresh cuttings
should now be pufcJUi^ these will make smaller
but useful plants i^groijrn on ijrcipljy during the

remainder of the season. Keep the different
varieties of Coleus well up to the light and in
full sun, in order to get up their colour early, as
they are among the most useful plants for the
conservatory to succeed the early-forced plants
of Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Ac, which will now
soon be over. Attend to the pricking out and
potting on of young Gloxinias and other seedling
plants in this house.

Cinerarias are now in full bloom, and if of a
good strain and well grown, will make a beau¬
tiful show. Give Calceolarias coming into
flower an occasional dose of manure water, shade
from strong sunshine, and maintain a moist
atmosphere round the plants ; this will be far
preferable to excessive root watering during the
present dry warm weather. Give such plants of
Fuchsias, Petunias, Zonal Geraniums, Ac., as are
well rooted in 3-inch pots a shift into 5-inch
ones, some of the strongest into C-inch ones if
required so large ; try to keep them a little close
and shaded for a few days after this operation,
and do not make the fresh soil too wet before
the roots have begun to work in it. Afford
Pelargoniums of the show and fancy sections a
light and airy position, with exposuie to all but
the very strongest sunshine; these require
abundance of moisture at the roots on bright
days, and a dose of guano or soot water twice a
week will greatly assist them.

Sow Balsams in light, rich soil, and keep them
close to the glass when up. If already started,
pot the plants singly in 3-inch pots as soon as
they have a pair of rough leaves, setting them
deeply in the soil See that some nice plants of
Plumbago capensis are coming on for summer
flowering; if they cannot be planted out against
a wall give them a good shift when well in
growth, and train the young shoots to four or
five neat stakes stuck round the sides of the pots;
if nicely done these make fine specimens. Cut¬
tings of this plant, also of Myrtles, Acacias,
Cytisus, and most other hard-wooded greenhouse
plants, will now strike very easily in sandy soil
under a hand-glass in the greenhouse, or even
in a plain wooden box, with a sheet or two of
glass for a lid. Boxes of Stocks, Indian Pinks,
Lobelias, Pj rethrums, and other half-hardy
plants that have been pricked off and are well
established will now do much better in cold
frames, with plenty of air on fine days, than in
an even moderately warm house.

Ferns. —These will now be throwing up a
mass of young fronds, which must be carefully
watched, in order to prevent them from getting
spoiled in their upward course by becoming en¬
tangled with the old fronds. The centres should
be kept well opened out while the young fronds
are developing. Large supplies of water will
now be required by all kinds growing freely,
and the tree varieties will require their stems
damping several times daily during hot weather
Plants growing in baskets will require more
attention than those in pots, as the air, having
full access to the outside of the baskets, quickly
dries them up. Among the finest kinds for grow¬
ing in baskets are Goniophlebium subauricula-
tum, Asplenium caudatum, and A. Serra.
Among the smaller growing sorts suitable for
baskets may be named the different varieties cf
Adiantums; those that form underground
rhizomes are the best, as they quickly travel to
all parts of the baskets, and soon form a perfect
ball of delicate verdure. Two of the freest
growers in this way are A. assimileand A. ama-
bile ; but the most beautiful and distinct of all
the Adiantums for a basket is A. lunulatum.

Flower Garden.

General work. —Lawns should be mown
and grass verges clipped. Apart from the un¬
tidy aspect of uncut edgings, it is desirable to
cut these regularly to prevent seeding Grasses
making weedy walks, and the same remark
applies to Grass margins of shrubbery clumps
Continue to plant out all the hardy section of
bedding plants, also thin out hardy annuals
sown in the open borders, and plant out those
sown in warmth. Stake Sweet Peas and make
another rowing. Place in sheltered positions,
easy of protection, out of doors all the hardiest
kinds of bedding plants, such as Pelargoniums,
Ageratums, Lobelias, Verbenas, Ac, which will
allow of the potting on of recently struck plants
of the same kinds, and also the tender sorts,
such as Coleus, Amarantus, Iresine, and seed¬
ling subtropicals, which to do them justice re¬
quire plenty of space and warmth. I

Rock garden and hardy fernery.— tfu
off seed vessels and decayed flowers from the
earlier flowering plants, and keep the whole free
from weeds. Couch Grass and Spergula are it
this season very troublesome, and unless dtj-
troyed betimes quickly overrun the weaker
growing plants. The dwarf Phloxes, Aabrieu*:,
Myosotis, Omf halodes, and two or three variety
of Saxifrages are now finely in flower, but,hand- 1
some as they are, they should not be permitted
to encroach on others, which, like weeds they
quickly do if permitted to grow unrestrictedly
Keep the walks free from weeds, but not too
dressy; Moss-grown or heathy are tbe met
appropriate. Formal walks or edgings do not
harmonise well with the surrounding irregu’ari-
ties of a rock garden, but where thete exist keep
the edges slipped and the walks hard and clean
Ferns from which the old fronds have not jet
been removed should have that attention at one*,
and additional soil should be given to all that
need it; transplanting, too, may yet be done
When tnere is not sufficient to well famish tbe
ground, plant at long distances, and fill the in¬
tervening spaces with the common Wood Mosse?,
Sedums, and Stonecrops. The common wild
Hyacinths, Wood Anemones, Violets, Primrote-,
Snowdrops, and Daffodils are all in their sewee
most effective as undergrowths for Ferns.

Flowering trees and shrubs.—M any
flowering trees and shrubs are now in thei;
beauty, and by way of memoranda for fame
planting, the present is the time to decide
the varying merits of each, both as to ihe posi¬
tion for which they are best suited and colours
of blossom. The wild Cherries, the Almonds
and Laburnums are all excellent for planting
as standards in large shrubberies for distant
effect; and the double and single blossomed
dorse, Broom, both white and yellow flowered
Lilacs, Syringas, Weigelas are suitable for form-
ing groups, either alone or in combination bat
Syringas and Weigelas look best when well
backed up with evergreen shrubs. Horse and
Spanish Chestnuts, False Acacias and Hawthorns
seem most at home perhaps when planted singly
on the turf, but this is purely a matter of taste
and the character of the ground foiroation to be
planted, which obviously can only be satiifac
torily decided on the spot. Be that as it may,
every place having any pretension to gardening
should have some flowering trees and shrubs
and now when they are in full beauty is the time
to note and decide to what extent it may be de¬
sirable to use them.

Fruit,

Late Vines.— Take advantage of every ray
of sunshine in the management of late hou#*
by closing about 3 30 with moisture, when the
fire-heat may be kept abut eff until the tem¬
perature falls to within 5° of the night heat,
which need not exceed 60° for the present. If
inside borders are well drained they may bs
copiously watered without fear of injury; indeed
a large percentage of inside borders never get
half enough water; the roots go out in search
of that which is denied to them at home, and
many people imagine it is the position of the
border and not their own bad treatment which
drives them downwards and outwards, often into
deep subsoils too crude and cold for anything
less hardy than a common Oak. Another mii-
take which many people make is tbe giving their
late Vines too much root-room, particularly in
low, damp situations, where every thing but the
moisture-laden atmosphere is unfavourable to
good Grape growing. Jn such situations I have
always found that internal borders 6 feet wide,
and external borders 9 feet wide, will give a
maximum of good Grapes at a minimum of cost,
simply because they are full of active rcota
which can be fed without watering half tbe
garden, and bemg warm the Grapes invariably
set, swell, and colour well. Another advantage
is the alternate system of taking out and reno¬
vating the borders with new soil without having
to sacrifice a crop, when too much vigoar i*
unfavourable to the proper ripening of the wood,
and as the latter means unripe Grapes, growers
of late kinds who complained so much last
winter will do well to look to their border?,
and if they are wide, deep, rich, and cold, steel
forks must be brought into use before they will
again be successful in the Grape room.

Early YiNES.-*-Early houses in which tbe
Grapes are ripening may have more air on fine
days, but draughts mast be avoided, and if the

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

April 26 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

81

iside borders are sufficiently moist the usual
amping down may be continued, as spring
rapes require more moisture than can be given
: late ones. Let laterals grow without a check
: they seem inclined to start, and keep a sharp
je on the old foliage, as spider is almost sure to
e present, and injuiy to the primary leaves
t this early season is very often the cause of
srly Vines breaking prematurely in the autumn,
nd covering their unfortunate owners with
lory by ripening up new Grapes in January.
A ith many the usual remedy for spider is
lowers of sulphur, but, independently of the
act that Frontignans and other thin-skinned
.inds are often rusted and mined by its use,
unely sponging of the upper and undersides of
he leaves with soapy water is undoubtedly the
lost effectual, as it is the most economical mode
f dealing with this troublesome pest. Another
rooblesotne marauder is the spider, as it
horoughiy enjoys the dry warmth and security
vhich it finds in a bunch of Grapes, but it must
>q destroyed, otherwise the delicate bloom will
* disturbed before it is properly set.
Vegetables.

Brussels Sprouts should now be ready for
•ricking out. Get some old manure, spread it

selection of Cauliflowers and Broccoli to span
the year, see former calendars as to the early
Broccoli, such as Veitch’s two varieties, good old
Walcheren, and Early Dwarf Mammoth, leaving
me on this occasion to mention the winter and
^ bring varieties, which I have found to do best.
Of all winter Broccoli I pronounce Snow’s
(when true) as the very best, followed by those
two really flne varieties, Leamington and Watts’s,
both too well known to require farther remark.
For the latest Burghley Champion and Cattell’s
Eclipse are among the best. Keep plenty of
Lettuces tied up for blanching. Black-seeded
hirdy Cos is the sort to grow for the winter. In
these Lettuces one finds something crisp and
good, but French Cos Lettuces grown under
cloches are soft, like tissue paper compared with
brown paper as regards thickness and substance
of leaf.

FRUIT.

CULTURE OF THE STRAWBERRY.

We have received from Mr. Lovel, the Straw¬
berry Nurseries, Driffield, Yorkshire, the fourth
edition of his pamphlet entitled “ A Book about
Strawberries.’’ As Mr. Lovel has long been

bed, and dag in, the soil to be worked only when
it is dry; it will min the best of soil if worked
when wet and sticky. Before planting, make
the bed firm by treading it all over; and remem¬
ber that good climate, good soil, and good cul¬
tivation will not avail if good plants are not ob¬
tained. Procure plants from fruitful stocks,
properly rooted, and free-growing varieties.
Plant the bed with three rows, 18 inches apart
all over the bed, the middle row in the oentre of
the bed. Plant with a garden trowel, and make
the bole deep enough for the roots to lay full
length in it; fill in round the roots with fine soil,
pressing it firmly with the hand, and as water
may be necessary, don’t quite fill up the hole
until the water is given, and after it has soaked
in cover op level with dry soil; this will hinder
the soil from losing moi-ture. In very hot
weather it is wise to shade as well as water;
a cabbage leaf, ora handful of any kind of green
stoff laid on the top of the plant will afford a
grateful shade. A week after planting they will
commence growing. Keep the hoe constantly
at work ; every time the soil is stirred it lets in
the moist warm air, which acts like magic on
the roots of the plants. Never let a weed get
beyond the seed leaf. Cut off the runners ; it is

b^ACCO Of:

*55 WALK

VER^r"j!f_A‘J7

- CftrPTOMCFUA
-jAPONtoA
Y YEW

ASUS

azaleast .

AMCDOOCNDRQ<»3>'

PINUS

TMUJO«»SfS

HOSI

MLLARS

'OXGLOYt?.

Plan of Professor Owen s garden, Richmond Park.

°n tbs surface of an out-of-the-way corner
(1 inch deep is ample), and finish off with
another inch deep of fine soil. Burnt refuse is
the best of all mixtures for young plants, say
four barrow-loads of soil to one of refuse; on
this prick out the young plants 4 inches apart,
&nd when planting oat finally force the spade
under the bottom of the bed, and each plant will
come up with a ball. Set your line across the
tite to be planted, and take out one side spit,
and at every 3 feet apart lay in yonr plant,
pressing the soil firmly around it. Nothing more
>* needed except keeping the ground free from
*eeds. As regards spring Broccoli, before the
next calendar appears the time will be slightly
put for sowing this really paying crop. We
E0 * on May 1, and find that date, or about
toat, preferable to any other time. Sow in drills
1 foot apart, and plant out the plants from the
»«d beds to their permanent quarters, the site
being that occupied by early Potatoes. When
«« Potatoes are all lifted we give the land a
roegh rake over with an implement called the
^tator, set the line across the site, and make
to« boles with a crowbar; one man drops in the
’ arts while another fills the/noies with waler.
The work of planting is then d ami lht jb rqf bV

known as a successful cultivator, we print what
he has to say about the garden culture of the
Strawberry.

Summer Planting.

To grow the 8trawberry with success, it must
have an open situation, with free exposure to
sunshine; good fruit cannot be gTOwn under
trees or walls. Soil requires to be in good cul¬
tivation, rich, mellow, and free from weeds.
If planted after a crop of early Potatoes in
August, they will bear lots of fine fruit the
summer following. Too much care cannot be
bestowed on the preparation of the soil; it should !
be worked over with the spade until it is
thoroughly pulverised. Cultivate the top soil
8 inches or 10 inches deep, never mind the sub¬
soil. The Strawberry is a shallow rooting plant,
and does not require deep cultivation ; 10 inches
of good soil properly cultivated will grow it to
perfection. Having got the land so far pre¬
pared, mark it out into beds 4 feet wide, with
alleys or paths 2 feet wide. The soil may be
takan out of the alleys to the depth of 4 inches,
and thrown on the beds. It is now ready for
the manure. A barrowful of rich stable manure
£well fermented to kill the seeds of weeds) to
.every four or five yards, spread evenly over the

not enough to do this at the end of the season ;
cut them off as they grow, and the plants wil 1
grow twice as fast. In planting, don’t trust to
a small weak plant; rather put two together and
plant as one. During the winter months they will
require no further attention, and will gradually
sink to rest, but only to wake np like giants in
the spring. Soon as the land is dry hoe it over,
and mulch with stable manure ; cover up all bare
ground three or fonr inches deep; let it be done
in February if the weather permit. Covering
the ground protects the fruit from sand and grit.,
and keeps the roots oool and moist during a
most critical period. The roots of a Strawberry
plant grow near the surface, and if the soil be
bare and exposed to the direct rays of a hot sun
in May and June, the plant soon suffers, and a
few days’ check will spoil the crop. If you wish
the bed to continue in bearing for any length of
time, careful bands must gather the fruit; plants
arc like animals, they suffer from rough treat¬
ment. The plants will continue to bear satis¬
factory crops for two or three seasons with
prrper attention to weeding, catting off rnnners,
and mulching in spring. After a third crop, it
is the best plan to destroy the bed r and]'late

ftc,h start ' V1PAIGN'

82

GARDEJVIJVQ ILLUSTRATED

[April 26 1884.

Spring Planting.

To grow the Strawberry to perfection it should
be grown as an annual, and the young plants
left undisturbed. To obtain a bed in the shortest
space of time, the stock plants should be planted
in March, or at latest April. The ground should
be prepared as previously described, and laid
out in beds 5 feet wide. In the centre of the
bed a single row of p lants is planted at a dis¬
tance of 18 inches apart. From this row of
plants the runners which grow during early
summer are to be rooted all over the bed. From
the time of planting until the runners grow keep
the bed well hoed, so as to get the soil in good
condition for the runners to root in. In June
the first crop of runners will be ready to layer;
ten from each plant will be sufficient to save,
the remainder should be cut off. As a matter
of oourse, select the ten best earliest and
strongest, five on each side of the plant, and any
bloom that shows on the stock plants must be
taken off; the fruit will be of little value; it
hinders the runners from growing, and is a
temptation to trespassers. When the runners
are about 18 inches in length, and begin to show
a nice size plant at the second joint, it is time
to have them layered. This is a simple process.
Proceed as follows:—Take the runner in the left
hand, trim all off to the best young plant, which
will be found at the second joint of the runner;
scoop a shallow hole in the soil as far from the
parent plant as the runner will allow, place the
young plant in it, cover with an inch of soil, and
then place a small stone on the runner close to
the plant to hold it in position. It will strike
root in a few days. Treat each runner in
the same manner, spreading them out as much
as possible so as not to crowd each other. In a
very short time these layered plants will be
rooted and commence throwing out a fresh crop
of runners. Select the best, and a sufficient
number; have them layered as soon as ready,
distributing them all over the bed, the surplus
runners to be cut off. By the end of September
the bed will be furnished with young plants all
firmly rooted. Avoid crowding ; no two plants
should be nearer than 6 inches, and the first
layered plants should be 9 inches or 12 inches
apart. If they are found to be too thick on the
bed, take some of them up and plant elsewhere.
Many persons suppose that it is only first
runners that will bear fruit, but it is a mistake;
second and third runners will bear just as well
as first ones. Give them good soil to root in,
and do not let them crowd each other, and every
plant that gets rooted in autumn, no matter how
small, will contribute one or more bunches of
fruit the following season. This is the very best
possible plan of growing them if proper atten¬
tion is given to layering and thinning out the
surplus growths, and with a little practice pro¬
ficiency is soon acquired. Grown on this system
failure is impossible, so far as the season is con¬
cerned, and such a crop may be grown, the bed
literally smothered with fruit of excellent
quality. The bed should be mulchod with
manure early in February, lightish manure, well
broken up; cover all bare ground, and if a little
is laid on the plants they will grow through
aud be no worse for a light covering. The bed
may be allowed to stand as long as profitable,
giving it an annual top-dressing with stable
manure.

REMARKS ON TINE BORDERS.

Vine borders, in my opinion, as at present
formed, are much too limited as regards surface
space; they are too narrow and often too deep.
It is a waste of time and material to excavate
to a depth of 3 feet, and to provide an expensive
system of draioage. In practice that is un¬
necessary. What is wanted is more surface
space. The most fruitful Vines are those that
have unlimited root-run. We ought, therefore,
to prepare Vine borders in such a way that when
planted they will last a lifetime, and in many
cases it is possible to do so. To accomplish
this we must, however, step out of the beaten
track. We need not look far for evidence to show
that restricted Vine borders do not promote
productive and long-lived Vines. In eight cases
ou 1 ; of ten, when the Vines have reached the age
of twenty years they are worn out, or rather
prematurely exhausted from want of more root
roon. If we look at the rambling character of
i he roots, we hajre^the key to Ihe conditions
ieqaired to sus tajjjn Viiiesffi a i titfc n >us and fruit¬

ful state, and, given these conditions for the
roots and proportionate space for the branches,
there is no reason why, except in the most un¬
favourable situations, a house of Vines, when
once planted, judiciously cropped, and other¬
wise well treated, should not keep fruitful for
forty or fifty years, instead of as now, in re¬
stricted borders only from fifteen to twenty
years. I do not say that Vines do not produce
good crops of Grapes in these narrow borders
My argument is, that when a good fruitful Btate
is arrived at it should go on for a much longer
time than it now does, but that is not possible
with a limited root-run. Where old vines remain
in vigorous health and fruitfulness it is gene¬
rally acknowledged by those who manage them
that the roots have long since escaped from the
limits at first assigned to them. Therefore, can
more conclusive evidence be offered in favour of
more root room ? I have yet another objec¬
tion to make to

Narrow Borders,

especially those where the situation is low and
the staple soil of the place of a cold, ungenial
character. In this, as in all other positions, the
roots refuse to be confined ; they find their way
into the unsuitable soil below, and consequently
in a few years the Vines get into an unhealthy
condition. This could be prevented by giving
more surface space ; for although it is not pos¬
sible always to prevent a few large roots find¬
ing their way into undesirable quarters, it is the
natural character of the plant to seek princi¬
pally for its food near the surface, where it can
find warmth and moisture. If the space is
limited, ill-health shortly follows. If that be
not so, how are we to account for the fact that
in eight cases out of ten there is not a vinery to
be found in the country in a satisfactory condi¬
tion that has been planted more than twenty
years f This may be denied, but the denial
must be supported by proof. I maintain that
for general purposes we do not want rich and
deep borders limited to a certain size that will
furnish a bountiful supply of food for the roots
for a few years and then become suddenly ex¬
hausted. The Vine is impatient of restriction,
both as regards root and top, and when placed
under suitable conditions it is able to remain
fruitiul for a great length of time. I therefore
hold to the opinion that in providing borders of
limited extent we do not place the Vine under
conditions favourable to its attaining a fruitful
condition in old age, and I base my argument
on the principle that if you give the roots suffi¬
cient surface space, even if the subsoil be of an
unkindly character, there will be sufficient roots
maintained in a healthy condition, to keep the
Vines in health and fruitfulness for a number of
years (that is supposing that some of the roots
should find their way into bad soil, which they
are not likely to do to any extent if they have
room to extend in better quarters.) What kind
of borders, then, are necessary for promoting
long-lived and fruitful Vines ? I have already
in a great measure answered this question, but
I should like further to say that I want to see
restricted root space done away with altogether.

Unrestricted Root Space.

Instead of having narrow borders and a pro¬
minent walk in front of them, the roots should
have a long run before them in one of the
quarters of the kitchen garden, or some other
favourable position in which they are not in any
way confined, within 60 feet or 70 feet of the
house. This space need not be wholly unoc¬
cupied, but the half of it nearest the house
thoald remain [uncropped. With so much sur¬
face space, deep borders would be unnecessary.
It would not indeed be needful to make borders
more than 2 feet deep, and only from 10 feet to
12 feet wide. If beyond this point the soil to a
depth of 15 inches or 18 inches is fairly good,
the Vines would take no harm; on the contrary,
they would revel in it if its composition is in
any way different from that of the border, i e. t
if the roots can only keep near the surface. It is
clear to me that we hardly recognise the benefit
that a warm border affords the roots of Vines. I
feel satisfied that if it were possible to give the
roots sufficient water we could not do better than
cover our outside Vine borders with flagstones ;
the warmth generated by these stones would bring
the roots near the surface and prevent them
from going deeper into ungenial soil. I have
quite recently bad ccoular proof that such
would be the case. In making b me alterations

in a large house in which one-third of the in- j
tenor is occupied by a border for Vines and the j
remaining space covered with square tiles, I 1 j
found on taking up the floor formed with the 1
tiles that under them there was a perfect tet- V
work of roots from one end of the house to the
other They had made their way either through
or under a 4^-inch brick wall, and were evi- \ '
dently enjoying the warmth and moisture
obtained through the tiles. It must be under
stood that to create internal atmospheric
moisture for the Vines the floor of the bouse U
kept constantly damp during the summer when ,
they require moisture, and it is very certaio, a
owing to the poorness of the soil under il»
floor, that there wa9 nothing there to induce the
Vines to root so freely, except the warmth
generated by the tiles and the moisture resulting
from the constant damping of the floor.
This covering of thesurface, would, however, only \ \
do good in the case of restricted borders. I men¬
tion my own experience in respect to this
matter to show that, with plenty of surface
space, the roots will come there in search of
warmth and be benefited thereby. C.

NOTES ON PROPAGATING.

Stove plants, such as Dipladenias, Francii-
ceas, Stephanotis, Rondeletias, Gardenias, and
others, may now be struck from cuttings made
of the young shoots ; they must not be allowed
to flag, and therefore it is best to cut off but t
few at a time. After inserting them, give then
a good watering and keep them close and
shaded. That useful Palm, Rhapis flabellifor-
mis, may now be increased by division. With
a little care the old plant may be turned out of
its pot and the suckers removed, repotting the
plant. In taking off the suckers make sure that
roots are attached to them before separating
them. Use good, loamy soil, with a slight ad¬
mixture of sand, put them in as small pot
as possible, and plunge them in a gentle hot¬
bed.

Double Primulas intended for division in
about a fortnight will be the better now for be- 1
ing thoroughly cleansed and kept rather dose |
till that time, as by so doing the formation of
roots is hastened ; indeed, after being so treated j
it is often possible to see the young toota i
j ast protruding from the exposed parts of the \
stem.

Selaginellas —The propagation of these :®
generally regarded as but a simple matter, which
is indeed true as regards the majority of them,
but there are a few that are rather difficult to
increase. All the creeping kinds may be
divided to any extent desired, and the more
wocdy ones, such as africana, Wallichi, Lobbi,
and Wildenowi, may be broken up and separated ;
into as many pieces as have roots attached to |
them. Cuttings of the branches, too, of thee |
large growing kinds may be put in, and if kept
moist and close for a time soon root. Difficulty
is often experienced, however, with the propa¬
gation of those Fern-like kinds in which the
young fronds are unfolded from a single crowr.
and which therefore do not admit of _ division.
Concerning this latter class, of \ bich inrolvers
and paradoxa may be cited as examples, cut on
some of the fronds, and lay them on the surface
of well drained pots or pans, filled with light
sandy soil, secaring them in their positions with
small pegs, in order that the undersides of the
fronds may press on the soil; then place them
in a close case, and keep them moist. Atmos¬
pheric moisture alone will keep the fronds fresh,
when after a time buds will be developed on
various parts of their upper surface; from
these roots will descend, and thus young plan*
will be formed, which when large enough mui
be pricked off. Besides this, Selaginellas may
be raised from spores, which in the majority o
cases are freely produced. These spores should
be sown and treated in every way the same a*
those of Ferns.

Tuberous Begonias will now require pnek-
iDg off in pots or pans of good light soil, that«
to say, seedlings of them, while tubers starte a
month ago will in many cases have grown suf¬
ficiently loFg for the tops to be taken as catnap
if required. When put in keep them close ana
shaded, but do not over-water them, as tne>
are somewhat liable to damp.

Double Matricaria in©dora is rather
difficult to winter, but those that survive, turoe

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

miL 26 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

83

f their pots now and divided into as many
«a* possible, will soon jield a good stock
seed in a cold frame, where they grow away

r-

SUBURBAN GARDENS.
lb one thinks of the saddening result of
is called landscape gardening, as shown
•me of the largest and most pretentious
>s, it is some consolation to know that here
iber; a small one exists in which some
ral and artistic beauty may be found. The
rater-iquirta, the coloured gravels, the tor-
* and unmeaning geometry, cutting up the
ground ; the want of freedom and of breadth,
g to frivolous designs ; the varied rubbish
rra cotta and artificial stone; the barren
ngular style, illustrated in many show
a; the brand new “mediaeval” fosse, dig-
ng and destroying all repose, and many
things one could enumerate, and they are
:ommon. But places where the simple and
itial conditions for the most perfect beauty
anting and design are understood or illus-

making some kind of fortification in the Bhape
of a terrace garden, which would have destroyed
the repose, verdure, and the freedom of the
spot. However, he never wants a hill-side as
an excuse for his terrace, because he would
make it in a Lincolnshire fen as readily as any¬
where else. Here, the house originally seeming
to follow the drop of the hill a little, it was
considered necessary to have a very small ter¬
race, which, however, is not a regular one, but
runs on one side into the ground imperceptibly,
and does not in the least interfere with the ease
of movement from the house to the carpet of
green.

Now the only drawback—if drawback it be
to such perfect freedom and breadth of airy
foreground—is the fact that it offers a continual
temptation to unthinking people to dot it over
with flower beds, or allow evergreen trees to be
planted almost nursery fashion. Many places,
originally well laid oat, are spoiled by this
thonghtless dotting about of objects which please
the eye for the moment The question of flowers is
the greatest difficulty, because people are so

which is spread before the door. While, there¬
fore, we have so much to praise in the design of
Holder's Hill, it is somewhat deficient in pro¬
vision for dower gardening, which would recon¬
cile all to the sweet repose and e&i>e of the
lawn.

The present engraving is from a sketch made
by Mr. Alfred Parsons from the terrace on the
garden front of the house, looking a little south
by west. To the left of the Poplars, in the
middle of the drawing, the hill in the distance
is Harrow; Windsor is still farther to the left,
concealed by the Oak on the border of the orna¬
mental water. In the foreground to the left
some of the lower branches are seen of a fine
Spanish Chestnut, which Bweep down on to the
smooth lawn. To the right the tranks of some
fine Elms, Scotch Firs, and Limes rise boldly
from the grassy slope, while great variety of tint
is afforded by climbing Roses, Pampas Grass,
and some fine old Hollies. A view very similar
to that in oar engraving may be seen from
various parts of Hampstead Heath, and other
places in the vicinity.

View in a garden at Hampstead, five J mileeffrom London.

are far too rare. It is all the more pleas-
to meet with an example of simple and
n artutic treatment of a garden almost in
rioo, for Golder’s Hill is within five miles of
irmar Cross, on the western border of Harap-
vi Heath. As regards design and views, it is
best garden we are acquainted with in or
rthi* sooty Babylon, and the conditions of
beauty are ao simple that there is really little
said about them. An open lawn there is,
ich rolls up to the house like a carpet; groups
fine trees, and wide and distant views over
country north of London. On entering the
■ *«n, indeed, one is astonished at the extent
i beauty of the view and the gradnally reced-
t distances.

I woken fence separates the lawn from some
ri-Hke meadow with fine Oiks and Firs, and
?ond the country north of London opens up,
ttboot any bailding visible on either side or
*Jk* foreground. The whole of the front of
«loose, it must be understood, is an easy and
lawn, which one can step on to at once
any ivipcdimenta of the kind nsnal in *

S P ,ICCi - Being on a gentle rise, the ihen a
landscape gardener Wj6nld no doubt smbov
this* as an additio^_f4gjb i ^ Muter

well aoenstomed to have all their flowers gathered
in front of the house, that, if abundant provision
is not made for them elsewhere, the carpet is
apt, some day or other, to be dissected into a
number of ugly flower beds. The best way to
guard against this is to provide abundance of
simple beds elsewhere, which, half seen peeping
through the trees, or met with in groaps here
and there at no great distance from the house,
afford better effects in flower gardeningthan can
bs obtained where all the beds are stereotyped
nnder the windows. Thus, where the foreground
is a pleasant lawn, it is necessary to have one
spot whioh may inswer for the flower garden ;
and, better still, large isolated beds or groups of
beds, in which special subjects can be grown,
as they are never grown in the ordinary flat
flower garden which leads to uniformity in
height and otherwise. To have here a groap of
large beds, simple in outline, with Roses and
smaller plants surfacing the ground ; next, in
some isolated nook, a large oval bed of Lilies,
separated by a group of low shrubs and flowering
Vaccas from a few beds of hardy florist flowers;
hen a varied flower garden partially cat off and
wered by trees—these and the like are much
than the usual stereotyped floral rug

ROSES.

ROSES AND ROSE ELECTIONS.

With what eagerness did I read the Rose elec¬
tion, which appeared in Gardbnino a few
weeks past, but never did I lay down a paper
with more disappointment (which it appears
has been shared by many other readers) It is
true that only new Rores were spoken of, and
it was most kind of Mr. Walters undertaking
the daties of secretary to the election committee;
but. I think, what amateurs want, to know is
something about old and tried Roses, whose
constitutions have been thoroughly tested, as
both suitable for show purposes and garden de¬
coration ; and in many instances the space at
command in an amateur’s garden is so limited,
that only one, or at most two dozen varieties, can
be grown ; they are naturally anxious to obtain
Ro 368 which possess the following good qualities,
vis., vigorous constitutions, free blooming habit,
richness of oolonr, perfection of form, large in
size, deep in bnild, with petals of great substance,
and be in every way qualified to appear on an ex¬
hibition table; therefore, any election which
omit from its front ranks (let v-iono ignoring alto* V|”
gether) the existence or agon Roms •» ujnnMe.,

1JRBANA-CHAMFAIGN

84

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[April 26, 1884.

Marechal Niel, Baroness Rothschild, Gloire de
Dijon, and Mdlle. Eugene Verdier, and others of
tbe first water, must, I should think, be a
puzzle for the most experienced amateur, let
alone for the novice, who, all the same, is a dear
lover and enthusiastic admirer of Old England’s
emblem. To attempt to select only twelve or
twenty-four best Roses, out of a number of
nearly 700 selected varieties of all classes,
would be so difficult, and few would dare make
the attempt. But I will adopt a new and
original method of selection which has just
occurred to me, which will, 1 think, be more
clear and satisfactory to your readers, and which
1 trust will be followed by others among able
writers on this interesting subject. I will divide
Roses into classes, and try to give the best
twelve among the Teas this week, and the best
twenty-four among the H. Perpetuals next week,
and a short selection ont of the other minor
classes. Among Teas, for an amateur’s green¬
house or wa'led garden, I would recommend the
following twelve, and will further subdivide
them according to colour :—

Teas, gold colour , buffs and yellows .—1. Mare¬
chal Niel; 2. Etoile de Lyon ; 3. Gloire de Dijon ;
4. Princess of Wales; 5. Perle de Jardines; 6.
Madame Welch.

Teas, white.— 1. Innocent6 Pirola; 2. Niphetos;
3. Devoniensis.

Teas , coloured. —1. Catherine Mermet; 2.
Madame Lambard ; 3. Louis van Houtte.

In making the above selection I was almost
tempted to place Etoile de Lyon on an equality
with the Marechal for first place, inasmuch
that it possesses, in addition to its grand form
and exquisite beauty, a most free blooming
habit. In the white class I unhesitatingly
place Innocent6 Piiola first, because I consider
it larger and superior to Niphetos, in growth
and in abundance of bloom. Among the
coloured Teas I think the verdict would be from
all who have seen Catherine Mermet in her best
attire, that she is a superb and truly magnificent
Rose. Wm. Phillips.

Jloole , Chester.

Gloire de Dijon Rose —Of all the Rose3
in cultivation, this, in my opinion, is the most
useful. It is the last Rose of summer and the
first of spring. Indeed, with two or three plants
in a cool greenhouse and the same number on
any wall out-of-doors, a constant supply of
blooms may be had from February until Novem¬
ber. In constitution it is most robust, as there
is no situation in which it will not succeed, and
I cannot remember a Gloire de Dijon dying of
either disease or old age ; one of our plants here
I know will soon be out of its teens, yet it grows
as robustly and blooms as freely and profusely as
the youngest of them. During the last three
weeks we have cut at least two hundred blooms
from this plant which occupies a restricted place
in a cool conservatory. Another one, which was
planted in a miniature form at the end of an
unheated Peach house three years ago, has this
spring produced five hundred buds and blooms;
and this is only one crop, as successional ones
will follow until the end of the season. If this
Rote has a fault at all, it is in being over-flori-
ferous. In many instances it is allowed to injure
itself through bearing too many flowers ; if left
to itself there will be a bloom from every eye,
and there is hardly any way of preventing this,
except cutting off the bloom. The shoots Bhould
be cut well into the main stems, and this will
induce fresh shoots to push forth, and it is these
which, before long, bloom again. At the same
time, next year’s crops must be seen to, and we
find that tae best way to provide for these is not
to depend wholly on spur-pruning, but to lay in
a number of young shoots, which always spring
from the base of healthy plants, and in the win¬
ter time some of the oldest of the branches may
be cut away to make room for these. Sometimes
these young shoots may be 10 feet or 12 feet in
length, but this is none too long, as in spring
they will break regularly, and produce a host of
massive gorgeous blooms. Out-of-doors the only
profitable way of growing this Rose is against
a wall where it will have plenty of head room.
In dwarf or standard form in a bed it is lost.
As a natural rambling bush it would be better,
but against the walls of mansions, villas, cot¬
tages, and chun&eiS it at hpmil A, well-drained
bed, with plenj^ojso l^Acl never-failing

supply of moisture, are its only wants through¬
out the season ; and should greenfly appear at
any time, liberal syringing will at all times
dispel it.—J. M.

11366. — Treatment oi Roaes. —

“ M. P. G.” a9ks do Bourbon Roses in open
ground require pruning, and to how many buds,
and when; also what treatment? Rose A. K
Williams requires to fit it for the exhibition
table; also, if superphosphates are good manure
for Roses? Your Bourbon Roses should be
rather close pruned in spring, say to four buds.
A light rich soil suits this class best. The plants
being rather tender, a slight protection of Furze
or Spruce would be beneficial. Rose A. K.
Williams, to grow it fine, should have, on the
contrary to the above, a strong, rich, clayey
loam, with good drainage. If the plants have
already been planted in richly prepared beds
they will not require anything more until the
buds are getting plump. About the middle of
May, when a little guano or dried fowl dung
should be spread on the surface of beds and
raked in. This will be far superior to the
superphosphate mentioned by “ M. P. G.” Do
not apply stimulating top-dressings or liquid
manure to Roses or any other plant. When not
growing freely, wait until the foliage is setting
and healthy. — William Phillips, Hoole %
Chester.

11330.— Roses unhealthy.— If “Constant
Reader ” will state whether his Roses are out-
of-doors or in pots in a house, it would then be
possible to offer some advice. If in the open
ground it is not reasonable to expect the foliage
to be perfect, as owing to the very open season
much growth has been made, and an occasional
frosty night catches the plants and shrivels the
foliage, which has appeared out of season.—W
Phillips, Hoole , Chester.

VEGETABLES.

AN EIGHT YEARS’ ROTATION OF CROPS
FOR A KITCHEN GARDEN.

One great advantage of this plan is that the
gardener always knows what work he has to do.
Of course the natures of the different crops have
been regarded as much as possible in the rota¬
tion.

Plot 1.—Potatoes, early autumn sorts,followed
by Cabbage, winter Spinach, Lettuce, and
part left for Onions.

As soon as the Potatoes are taken up, the
ground is trenched three depths and mar ured—
for method see note A—then planted with Cab¬
bage, &c.

Plot 2. —Cabbage, winter Spinach, Lettuce,
and Onions, followed by Celery, Leeks, and Car-
doons.

Onions, sown in with wood ashes, ground en¬
riched with good rotten manure in bottom of
Celery trenches, and liquid manure applied
during growth.

Plot 3.— Parsnips, Carrots, Scorzonera, Salsa-
fy and Beet.

Sown in with wood ashes mixed with fine
mould; as soon as the roots are cleared the
ground thrown up in high ridges and bottom
between forked and left to chasten during winter.
So with any plot throughout which becomes
vacant during winter.

Plot 4 —Tall later Peas with winter greens,
e.g. t Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, Kale, &c., two
rows planted in between each row of Peas later
on.

A little rotten manure in bottom of trenches
for Peas. The Peas shade the Brassise and pro¬
mote their making vigorous growth.

Plot 6. —Potatoes later sorts. Broccoli and
sprouting Broccoli planted out a row between
each row of Potatoes, except in a part to be kept
after Potatoes for small late Turnips.

See plot 4 on advantage of shading.

Plot 6.— Cauliflower, Couve Tronchuda, and
Dwarf French Beans.

The ground is dug up all over. The dwarf
French Beans are planted where rows of Broc¬
coli were. Then manure is dug in later between,
and Cauliflower planted where rows of Potatoes
were.

Plot 7.—Potatoes middle crop.

After Potatoes are lifted the ground ridged up
for winter as above—plot 3.

Plot 8 —Broad Beans, followed by iriddj
crop of Turnips. Banner Beans on outsides :
remaining ground with two or more rowji
dwarf Peas in between and rows of early T:
nips between both.

These Turnips are left for spring-tops and
early bloom till Potatoes are required to
planted, for bees; or bloom may be left it
longer if it is arranged that the Potatoes ih
come between the rows.

Plot 9. — Strawberries are grown in i
plot, and are changed one-thiid every year to il
next plot of ground, and so back again. Ib
does not, therefore, interfere with the rotatk:,
but only causes portions of two contiguous pkj
to be taken and counted to make up one.

Mulched with rotten manure in autumn, tfn
leaves cut off and then spread with fresh $e»
weed in spring.

Plot 10 — Earliest Peas, earliest Potato^
and earliest winter Lettuce and Spinach a
grown on a separate sunny border near a ml
with southern aspect, changing places with (id
other yearly,one-third of the ground beinggn*
to ea?h crop.

Earliest Peas, rotten manure; Potato::
in with fresh Seaweed, Lettuce, or plenty £
rotten manure.

Plot 11 —Globe Artichokes and Asparaga
have each separate beds

Globe Artichokes, mulch round crowns *ii
manure after stems cut down,and with Sea*.,
(not over crowns) in spring. Asparagus, afta
stems are cut down, beds roughly forked npui
then manured heavily with fresh manure It
February throw mould from alleys on beds id
spread layer of fresh Seaweed on top.

Plot 12. —Also Rhubarb and Seakale, baU
is proposed to gradually change these one viti
the other.

Rhubarb, long manure and Beech leaves ty
off ground with sticks ; Seakale, earliest, foted
with Beech leaves mixed with stable maiut
main crop with fresh Seaweed 2 feet deep d
shoots begin to appear through, not kep: &
crowns with sticks.

Plot 13 —Jerusalem Artichokes and Hew
radith have a nook where they cannot trespa*
on other crops.

Jerusalem Artichokes dug up every yei'
ground carefully cleaned, manured and im¬
planted; half-bed of Horseradish dug one yar;

other half the next,crowns replanted 2 feetdf^
with manure at bottom. In the next year»
crop which is on plot 1 will oome on plot 8, tint
on plot 2 on plot one, and so on, and from jar
to year.

1Vote A .—As soon as the Potatoes are off, tw
plot is marked out for deeply trenching in eo»
widths, thus: —

The soil is removed from land a two spit* *sa
two shovellings deep, and from l one spit &
one shovelling deep, and placed where it will «
available for throwing into the upper part <*
m and two depths of n at end of the trenchir:
The bottom of a is then broken up witn a W
or, as very often needed, with a pickaxe 1*
second Bpit of b is then thrown upon the bottca
of a and the second shovelling from b upon Uj
Then the bot tom of b is broken up as was that..
a. The top spit of c is then thrown across cp :
a. On this a good layer of rich stable
spread. It is then covered with the first mow
ling from e and the work on a is completed J
second spit of c is then thrown in the bottom ft
b and the second shovelling of c upon this j
bottom of c is broken up. The top spit of '
thrown across upon b, and so on as above. ».
this method the strata of soil are kept nearly
the same position and the bad soil below ^
brought to the top, yet is gradually enriched
what “coulters” down in the process and *'
more by what percolates downwards witn
rain. By thus trenching a plot once every e v
years, harsh and poor soils of a few inches w
been converted into good soils info wui
a walking-stick can easily be pressed nearly
to the handle. . .

I have worked on this plan, extending if
out of seven years and gradually .
it till it works verywell, My gardener,an m ,
gent man, says he would not on any aocoo *

IraiL 26 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

85

out it, and that he now knows it by heart,
•e tried it in the various forms on the harsh
ids of Warwickshire, and herein the valley,
thin rich hamas resting on chalky marl and
and below on chalk rock. The change pro-
1 by the plan of trenching,which is the base
ie systtm, is remarkable. I have no doubt,
!7tr, that others may suggest improvements
and I should be happy to learn them
lgh these pages. W. G.

ortKing.

CARROTS AND THEIR CULTURE.
Soil.

rrots when well grown are a profitable crop;
good clean roots upon ground long under
vation are difficult to obtain. When sowing
£ow a few seeds of some of the Brassicas at
atne time, or plant a few plants from 5 feet
feet apart after the Carrot seeds are sown,
e are allowed to grow during the summer,
it is thought thw t they serve to keep the
its free from insects. Carrots do best on a
, mellow, sandy soil in which they produce
i, straight roots free from canker, but under
ul cultivation they may be grown upon
soils if fairly rich. Ground heavily ma-
1 for a previous crop should be selected, but
hat in which leaf-mould or old vegetable
las been buried, except well limed, as they
mr wire worm, one of the worst enemies
h can attack the Carrot crop. Where ob-
ble before sowing, give the ground a heavy
ing of wood ashes, mixed with soot, raking
vply into the surface Ga3-lime spread upon
iorface and raked in deeply will also be
i a good dressing for ground infested either
wire worm or the Carrot maggot. The
ad haring been selected, if intended for the
rooting varieties, it should be trenched from
t to feet deep, laying it up in ridges, iu
h it will get well pulverised by the winter’s
a. Daring February, if favourable, level
i the ridges with a digging fork, breaking
oil into as fine a mould as possible. Fork
'er once more before sowiDg time. For
growing sorts deep (figging will do, break-
he soil up well as the operation proceeds.

Sowing.

iily in April rake the surface to as fine a
.d as possible, when the wood ashes may be
id on it and raked in. All will now be
F for making the seed beds. The seeds may
r be sown broadcast upon beds 4 feet wide,
ng alleys 12 inches wide between them, or
wg 12 inches apart and 1£ inches deep. Sow
y, and if in beds rake the seeds into the
£e; a portion of the soil from the alley may
be thrown upon the bed and raked level,
.he edges straight and level the soil in the
, thus finishing the beds. When sown in
stretch the line and draw drills 1£ inches
The seeds may be mixed with sand or
;arth, Tabbing the two together, when they
be found more easily distributed. When
i beat them firmly into the drills with the
of an iron rake ; cover them over and tread
ground firmly, when it may be raked level,
will require no more attention until the
ig seedlings appear above ground ; they may
be (lasted with soot and lime to prevent
) from eating them, which will often be
(1 the case, especially in damp, clayey

Thinning. &c.

i soon as the young plaDts are large enough,
them in the rows to 8 inches apart and keep
l free from weeds. When the crop has at-
ed its full growth, which will be about the
of October or beginning of November
aiding to the season, lift the roots, choosing
yday for the purpose, and remove the tops
eto the crowns; store them in some dry
sfrora which frost is exclnded, or they may
stored in clamps in the ground, covering

• Ciref ally to ward off frost. Several so w-

* may be made at different times, so as to
c*ed each other; make the first about the
Jof February or beginning of March, choosing

* the purpose a dry, warm border facing the
*h Sow the short growing varieties for

• crop. The main crop may be put in early

April, and another sowing may be made about
twiddle of August to stand Xhe > winter and
Dt bto use early in spring. ^ O

Forcing.

A few early forced Carrots are always accept¬
able, and may be had at a trifling cost, provided
a spare frame can be devoted to them and
manure to form a hotbed, or a pit heated by
means of hot-water pipes will do equally well.
Sow in light sandy soil as near the glass as pos¬
sible, and for this crop use the Short Horn
variety. When the young plants appear they
must be kept well watered, and when large
enough thinned out to 4 inches apart. Maintain
a steady moist temperature from 50° to 55°. The
first sowing should be made the last week in
January or first in February. Where manure is
to be used, make up a bed of good lasting
materials, which may consist of warm stable
manure and fresh leaves well mixed and turned
over several times before the bed is made up.
The latter may be 5 feet high at the back and
4 feet at the front, which gives the frame slope
sufficient to carry off rain water or any moisture
which may collect upon the inside of the glass.
After placing the frame upon the bed, put from
12 inches to 15 inches of sandy loam inside,
and sow after the temperature declines to 55°,
watering occasionally to keep the soil moist.
Use fresh linings to keep up the derired tempera¬
ture. The Short Horn sort will be found to be
the most profitable, and having a fine flavour
when cooked will be most prized.

Varieties.

Golden Ball is one of the best for frame work.
It is nearly round in shape, and comes into use
early. French Forcing Horn will also be found
to force well and to produce roots of a medium
size. For the early outdoor crop. Carter’s Scar¬
let Horn is one of the best, and for general use
James’ Intermediate. The Long Red Surrey is
a good variety for deep soils. Altringham Im
proved, a green-topped sort, is a heavy cropper,
and suitable where Carrots are grown largely.

W. C.

The beet Savoys.—Few of the Brasaica
family are more useful than the Savoy. Its easy
culture, taken in conjunction with the weight
of produce from a given space, is a matter not
to be despised by those who require a large
supply of green vegetables for winter use. These
remarks apply, peri aps, more particularly to the
want* of large families, but for small house¬
holds the Savoy offeis an agreeable change, pro¬
vided a judicious selection of varieties is made
When the aim is to get a good-sized well-filled
plant, there is nothing to beat the Drumhead.
This is a large sort and one which requires a rich
deep soil and plenty of room. It must, however,
be remembered that it is the first to suffer from
severe frost, and the larger the heads the more
they get injured. It is therefore necessary to
use it as far as is practicable during November
and December before severe frosts usually set
in. For small gardens King Koffee and the
Early Ulm are the best, and they do not require
so nch soil as the Drumhead. They are also
finer in ter.ture and milder in flavour, but unfor¬
tunately they are rather more tender than the
large growing kinds. The middle of April is
soon enough to sow for all ordinary porpoises.
The best way is to select an open, sunny spot for
the seed bed where the soil is rich. After the
surface has been raked fine, sow the seed thinly,
and then cover it with some finely sifted soil.
We cover all our seeds in this way, and the re¬
sult is a greater percentage of plants than when
the seed is raked in in the ordinary way. The
after-management of the bed will not differ in
any way from that of other beds sown with seeds
of a similar character, but every encourage¬
ment must be given to indace the seed to vege¬
tate quickly. To attain this a moist soil is ne¬
cessary, and in dry weather nothing is better
than to give the surface a good watering as soon
as the seed is sown. Then cover the bed with
an old mat, which may be either pegged down
to the ground or a brick may be laid on each
corner to keep the wind from blowicg it about.
This covering will give shade and keep the seed
in a uniform state as regards moisture ; conse¬
quently in seven or eight days it will begin to
grow, and then the mat must be removed, or the
young plants will suffer. In showery weather
covering the seed bed may be dispensed with,
and the plants allowed to grow on in their own
way, i e. % except they come up in thick patches,
when it is a good plan to thin them out, and if
need be the thinnings may be pricked out into

another bed; if not, they may be thrown away.
To grow Savoys so as to secure both tenderness
and good flavour, a rich deep soil is necessary.
The most satisfactory way to secure the^e condi¬
tions is to plant on ground that was heavily
manured and dug up deeply during winter, and
as soon as the plants in the seed bed are large
enough they should be planted. The Drumhead
should be put out 2 feet apart each way, while
small growers such as King Koffte. and the
Dwarf Ulm only require a space of 15 inches
every way. The after management consists iu
keeping the ground well stirred between the
plants, so as to keep the surface open and to des¬
troy weeds.—C. C.

Late Peas. —Some advocate sowiDg early
round Peas for late crops, but 1 could never see
any advantage in so doing. I have tried them
on several occasions and in various situations by
the side of wrinkled Marrows, but have always
found the latter to be most depended upon. 1
do not say that the latter may be sown as late
as the former and with equally good lusults,
seeing that Marrows take about sixteen weeks
to come into bearing, while the rounds take only
twelve, that is, if sown early in spring, and a
little less when sown towards the latter end of
spriDg; but were I a?ked to name the best late
Peas, and only allowed to choose one sort, ic
would be that grand old Pea, the Ne Plus Ultra.
Daring the last four years I have sown this and
three other kinds late, three fresh ones every
season, but I have always found Ne Plus Ultra
to be the latest and best bearer, and last, but
not least, the best flavoured. In short, this Pe i
would be perfect did it not grow ro tall— P*
only fault. Talk about perpetual bearers ! is
would take an everlasting bearer to eclipse this
kind. Daring these last four seasons we have
made it a rule to sow this variety at three dif¬
ferent times, the last beiDg from the 25th to tLo
end of May, and we have always keen able to
gather Peas from these up to the time when they
are destroyed by frost or wind. Last year we
commenced gathering from the last sowiDg tl e
first day or so in September, and continued
gathering till the end of October, and still they
were as good flavoured as earlier in tbe season.
Two points to bo kept in view in growing these
tall late Peas is to select a sheltered, but not
shady, place for them, and to provide them with
good, strong, and long stakes. Some imagine
Pea stakes to be long when they are 6 feet., but
those we used last season were 10 feet, and the
Peas got to the top of them. We were obliged
to gather the pods with a pair of steps, but to
this we do not object so long as we got the Peas.
Has anyone found any of the dwarf late Peas to
eclipse Ne Plus Ultra ? If so, I should like to
know its name—C. F.

Winter Broccoli — A good supply of
winter Broccoli is invaluable when there is a
large demand for good vegetables, and there is
no more useful variety than Snow’s Winter
White, which comes in in November, and if the
weather continues mild its season lasts more
than six weeks. Osborn's Winter White makes
a good succeBsional crop, following, as it does,
closely after Snow’s, but wholly distinct from
it. It is not only more vigorous in growth, bnt
produces larger heads. Both these sorts require
to be treated in the same way. They should be
sown any time during April. A piece of ground
should be set apart for that purpose. Our winter
Broccoli and Brussels Sprouts 1 like planted on
ground that was oocupied the year previous with
Carrots or Parsnips. It is necessary to plant in
well-maDured deeply-dug soil, which ought to
be prepared during winter and allowed to remain
uocropped. Plant 2 feet apart each way, and
dull showery weather should if possible be
selected for the operation; at the same time
there must not be any serious delay in getting
tbe plants out; first, becau-e they will be get¬
ting crowded in the seed bed, and secondly be¬
cause they should be got out as soon as they
are large enough for transplanting, so as to give
them as long a time as possible to make their
growth, for as they come into use in November,
under tbe most favourable circumstances tbe
time in which they have to make their growth
is not too loDg to get strength sufficient to pro¬
duce good-sized heads. In dry weather we
always draw drills abont3 inches deep, in which
to plant them, and then, if they require water
afterwards, the drill prevents any waste, as it
concentrates the supply where it is likoiy to

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[April 26,1

reach the roots; the only after-attention they
require is to keep them free from weeds, and
the surface moved occasionally between the
plants with a Dutch hoe. In November, if
there is any appearance of frost, it is a good
plan to go over the plantation every week, and
a9 fast as heads fit for table are formed dig up
the plants, shake all the soil from their roots,
and plant; them again in a bed of soil in a cold
pit or frame, taking care that they are not too
much crowded. Under such circumstances it is
an easy matter to protect them, and they keep
just as well as if they were left in the open
quarters, even if the weather should be mild.

0. C.

THE RED SPIDER.

(TETRANYCHUS TELARIU8)

The red spider is not correctly speaking an in¬
sect, though it is commonly spoken of as such,
neither is it a spider, as its name would imply,
but an acarus or mite. Whether its name is
correct or not, it is a most destructive and
roublesome pest wherever it makes its presence
elt; it by no means confines itself to one or
only a few kinds of plants, as many insects do,
but it is very indiscriminate in its choice of food,
and it attacks both plants grown under glass
and those in the open air. When these pests
are present in large numbers the leaves on which
they feed soon present a sickly yellow or
scorched appearance, for the supply of sap is
drawn off by myriads of these little mites,
which congregate on the undersides of the

Fig. 1, red spider (magnified); A 1, ditto (natural size);

2, underside of head ; 3, foot; 4, spinneret.

leaves, where they live in a very delicate web,
which they spin, and multiply very rapidly;
this web and the excrement of the red spider
soon choke up the pores of the leaves, which,
deprived of their proper amount of sap, and
unable to procure the carbon from the atmos¬
phere which they so much need, are soon in a
sorry plight. However promiscuous these mites
may be in their choice of food plants—Melons,
Cuoumbers, Kidney Beans, Hops, Vines, Apple,
Pear, Plum, Peach trees, Limes, Roses, Laurus-
tinus, Cactuses, Clover, Ferns, Orchids, and
various stove and greenhouse plants being their
particular favourites—they are by no means in¬
sensible to the difference between dryness and
moisture. To moisture, indeed, they have a
most decided objection, and it is only in warm
and dry situations that they give much trouble,
and it is nearly always in dry seasons that plants,
&o, out-of-doors suffer most from these pests.
Fruit trees grown against walls are particularly
liable to be attacked, since from their position
the air round them is generally warm and dry,
and the cracks and holes in the walls are
favourite places for the red spider to shelter in,
so that extra care should be taken to prevent
them from being infested; this may best be
effected by syringing the trees well night and
morning with plain water, directing the water
particularly to the undersides of the leaves, so
as, if possible, to wash off the spiders and their
webs. If the trees be already attacked, adding
soft soap and sulphur to the water will destroy
them.

Sulphur

is one of the most efficient agents known for
killing themjf but it will notl however, mix pro-
D perly with vfcten jQt t o '4jjM r fc? or m, but 6hould

be treated according to the following recipe:
Boil together in four gallons of water 1 lb. of
flowers of sulphur and 2 lb. of fresh lime, and
add 1£ lb. of soft soap, and, before using, 3 gal¬
lons more of water; or mix 4 oz of sulphate of
lime with half that weight of soft soap, and,
when well mixed, add 1 gallon of hot water.
Use when cool enough to bear your hand in.
Any insecticide containing sulphur is useful.
The walls should be well washed with some in¬
secticide of this kind. Old walls in which the
pointing is bad and the bricks full of nail holes,
&o., are very difficult to keep free from red
spider. They should be painted over with a
strong solution of soot water mixed with clay
to form a paint. To a gallon of this paint add
1 lb. of flowers of sulphur and 2 oz. of soft soap.
This mixture should be thoroughly rubbed with
a brush into every crack and crevice of the walls,
and if applied regularly every year would pro¬
bably prevent the trees from being badly
attacked. As the red spider passes the winter
under some shelter, frequently choosing stones,
rubbish, &c, near the roots of the trees, keeping
the ground near the trees clean and well culti¬
vated, will tend greatly to diminish their num¬
bers. In vineries one of the best ways of des¬
troying these creatures is to paint the hot-water
pipes with one part of fresh lime and two parts
of flowers of sulphur mixed into a paint. If a
flue is painted in this way great care should be
taken that the sulphur does not burn, or much
damage may be done, as the flues may become
much hotter than hot-water pipes. During the
earlier stages of growth keep the atmosphere
moist and impregnated with ammonia by a layer
of fresh stable litter, or by painting the hot-
water pipes with guano made into a paint; as
long as the air in the house is kept moist there
is not much danger of a bad attack. As soon
as the leaves are off the canes should be dressed
with the recipe already given for painting walls,
and 2 inches or so of the surface soil removed
and replaced with fresh, and all the wood and
iron-work of the house well scrubbed. If Car¬
nations are attacked, tying up some flowers of
sulphur in a muslin bag and sulphuring the
plants liberally, and washing them well in three
days’ time has been recommended.

Tobacco water

and tobacoo smoke will also kill these pests,
but as neither tobacco nor sulphuring the hot-
water pipes can always be resorted to with
safety in houses, by far the better way is to
keep a sharp look-out for this pest, and as
soon as the plant is found to be attacked to at
once clean it with an insecticide which it is
known the plant will bear, and by this means
prevent other plants from being infested. These
little mites breed with astonishing rapidity, so
that great care should be exercised in at once
stopping an attack. A lady friend of mine had
some Castor-oil plants growing in pots in a win¬
dow which were badly attacked, and found that
some lady-birds soon made short work of the
mites and cleared the plants. The red spider
lays its eggs among the threads of the web
which it weaves over the undersides of the
leaves; the eggs are round and white; the
young spiders are hatched in about a week, and
they very much resemble their parents in
general appearance, but they have only three
pairs of legs instead of four at first, and they
do not acquire the fourth pair until they have
changed their skins several times ; they are, of
course, much smaller in size, but are, however,
in proportion just as destructive as the older
ones. They obtain the juices of the leaves by
eating through the skin with their mandibles,
and then thrusting in their probosces or suckers
(fig. 2), through which they draw out the juices.
These little creatures are so transparent, that it
is very difficult to make out all the details of
their mouths accurately. The females are very
fertile, and breed with great rapidity under
favourable circumstances all the year round.

As I have already stated the red spiders are
not real spiders, but belong to the family
Acarina or mites, a family included in the same
class (the Arachnida) as the true spiders, from
which they may be easily distinguished by the
want of any apparent division between the head
and thorax and body; in the true spiders the
head and thorax are united together and form
one piece, to which the body is joined by a
slender waist. The Arachnid® are followed by !
the Myriapoda (centipedes, &3.), and these by 1

the Insect® or true insects. The red
belong to the kind of mites called sp
mites, to distinguish them from those whack
not form a web of any kind. It is not quite
tain at present whether there is only oca
more species of red spider ; but this is immi;
to the horticulturist, as their habits and
means for their destruction are the saint
red spider (Tetranychus telarins—fig. 1) is
minute, not measuring more than the six
an inch in length when full grown; their
is very variable, some individuals being
white, others greenish, or various shite
orange, and red This variation in colour prob
depends somewhat on their age or food—tht
ones are generally supposed to be the
mature. The head is furnished with a
pointed mandibles, between which is a
beak or sucker (fig. 2). The legs are
number; the two front pairs project for
and the other two backwards ; they are
with long stiff hairs; the extremities of the
are provided with long bent hairs, which
each terminated by a knob. The legs and
appear to be only used in drawing out bet
and weaving the web. The thread is
by a nipple or spinneret (fig. 4) situated near
apex of the body on the underside. The
surface of the body is sparingly covered
long stiff hairs. 6.8.

91 !

Ml

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11356.— Grubs in gardens— There

be no doubt that the so-called grub ref
and described by “ Y.” is really a Blog (T<
cella), which lives entirely on earthworms,
is quite harmless among plants. “Y. n doa
make any mention of a shell (rudimentary) v
the Testacella baa on the posterior end of
body. If “ Y.” could without much to
send me about a dozen to turn down in my
den, I should be greatly obliged to him,
would gladly pay postage and any expe
collection. They would travel very well by
in a small tin box or canister.—W. Jefi
Ratham, Chichester.

- The grub in question is one of tbe

tory slugs, probably Testacella Maugei. It
underground upon earthworms and other
but not on vegetables. It has a small shefl
the hinder portion of its body, and is yel
colour. The creature is somewhat rare,
said to be interesting as a captive. There
several notices of it in various parts of Eo$
in tho pages of “ Science Gossip” for 1373
previous years. I wish I had some of
my garden.—S. J. Mc.I.

- From your correspondent’s descrij

fancy he has come across a specimen of the
Testacella haliot idea. This slug is found in gti
around London, but chiefly in the southern
of England. If it is the species I have na
it is exclusively carnivorous and a terror toa
earthworm, npon which it chiefly feed# IU
is, as I suppose, a Testacella, a small shell will
found near the tail.—J. Y.

11373.—Tomatoes in windows
must select a dwarf-growing kind for this pt'
pose. Orangefield Dwarf Prolific would c
They require rioh potting material. Occasis
surface dressings with stable manure and !«
in equal parts is the best stimulants. 1
plants would succeed better against a s®;
wall out-of-doors than in a sunny win#
inside.—J. D. E.

- Grow a small sort, such as Early I’"" 1

Red, in 6-inch pots. If they are put
fairly good compost, do not top-dress mash, I
you will have your plants unmanageable *
full of wood. A little manure water when t
fruit is swelling will be beneficial.—W. Fffl
lips, Hoole , Chester.

11364.— Manuring.— Liquid manure U i
necessary, nor is it desirable to apply it t0
garden flowers. Auriculas and Lilies are bet
without it. The best kind of water for Fern
rain water, and they are better to have a sbi
over them to protect the fronds from bright r
shine. Perhaps the Maiden-hair Fern v.*a
potting. It ought to succeed in a warm wind
if partially shaded from the sun. Tbe best l
ting soil is peat and loam in equal parts, wit
little broken charcoal and seme sharp eand

-j.#. e. rmrioTo

BANA-CHAMPAIGN

fail 26, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

87

52. — Propagating’ Orevillea ro-

As you say this is a very handsome
, and well adapted for window culture, I
no plant in our dining-room window and
er in the same position in the drawing-
early in September last year. The plants
ow in excellent condition, and as beautiful
jse in a warm greenhouse. They have not
leaf, and we occasionally cleansed them
dust by a good washing with the syringe,
30t propagated by cuttings, but from seeds,
i vegetate freely in a hot-bed. Now is a
time to sow seeds, and any seedsman can
y them.- J. D. E.

17.— Plants for verges.— Under a Pear
n my garden nothing would grow. I went
vood and collected some Fern roots and
ed under the tree 9 inches apart, and
*en the Fern roots I stuck in some roots of

QUERIES

Rules fOr Correspondents.—Att communion
turns/or insertion should oe clearly and concisely written
On one side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor.
Letters relating to business to the PUBLISHER. The name
and address of the sender <* reouired, in addition to any
nom de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the Query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the
day of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and
som munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again.

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when good
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name
varieties qfflorists' flowers, such as Fuchsias , Geraniums,
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named by a
specialist who has the means of comparison at hand. Any
communication respecting plants or dowers sent to name
should always accompany the parcel.

)f the Valley, which came in bloom in May,
era afterwards sending up their clusters of
g about 2 feet high all over the bed ; what
to be an ugly bate patch became a lovely
I had seen the same growing in a wood
oroaght it to my garden, where it grew
iantly in a suburb of smoky London.—
CHM*AS.

89 —Sparrows. —These birds are really
ronblesome pests, and they take great de¬
in making their home in the Ivy round
mg houses. You must get a ladder and
illy search for their nests every two weeks
5 the summer. If you cut the Ivy well
•he birds will forsake at once. We have
•w nets for catching them at roost in the
r. The nets are fastened to long sticks
e at the end; bat-folding nets they are
-J. D. E.

».—Shrubs for wall.—To cover a wall 10 feet
iuickly, riant Irlali Ivy and Virginian Creeper,
ill be tifective and pretty, and in autumn, wnen
rginian Creeper Gauges to crimson, nothing can
» the beauty of the combine! colours,—W.

Uode, Chester.

i—Marechal Nlel Roses pale In colour.
>u wail until the sun has more power, your Mart-
id Roses will be deeper In colour either in green
jr open ground. They are generally pale in the
md darker months of the year.—w. Phillips,

'.-Leather-coated grabs.—I stated In re-
o the question on this subject what I know to be a
iving found the leather-coated grub feeding both
lu and Carnations. I have picked them off with
to hands by the ail of a lamp at night.—
E.

).- Seeds and birds.— If yon fasten lines of
crochet cotton to small sticks inserted in the
1 (the thread should be about 9 Inches above the
1), sparrows and other birds are frightened and
good distance off. Soaking grass seeds in paraffin
kill the seeds, and It is unnecessary.—J. D. E.

i. - Shading greenhouses.—There ia no better
i of shading greenhouses than by fastening the
al to rollers and stout laths, so that they can be
to or rolled up in a few seconds. It is best to put
sding outside.—J. D. E.

Summer cloud is an effective shading ; the colour
t a nice appearance. Directions are given with it
chasing.—W. Phillips, Boole , Chester.

nagement of seedlings.—I have been very
tint in raising seeds according to instructions given
&DENI5G, ana want to know when I shall take the
iff the seedlings altogether. They are about tbree-
molan inch above the soil. I have taken them
the Rand bed and one of the kitchen. [Take the
if at ana and give more air and light. Prick of in
t or two],

1. Ball— Any good seedsman will supply you. We

t recommend any one In particular.- G. H.

a—Give the ground a good dressing with fresh
— B. F.— From any of the florists who advertise
columns. A small plant would cost about 6d. or
fyou have any heat to raise plants in, a 6d. packet

1 would give you a lot of plants in a few weeks.-

-Your query was answered by the editor. We will,
*ar, insert the query again, and perhaps some of

view may give fuller information.- Goat.— Fruit

’railing, by T. 8impson, will probably suit you. It
• obtained at our office. Apply to the publisher.

mes of plants.— C. L — 1, Variety of Azalea
i; i, Ltolepia gracilis; 8, Deutzia gracilis; 4,

u racemosua.- M. Burke. —Asclepias curassa-

to: new.a showy stove plant. Box of flowers, no

p*wi. Plant is Anemone fulgens.- J. W. Eaton.

cifcogilum nutans.- H. M. F.— Forsythia viri-

aa- B. Flint off —Flower was withered, but it Is

asaUjr Oxalia valdiviana. Sow seeds in a warm

wef light soil out-of-doora.- Cavan Amateur.—

4sll» buibosa- A. Brenan.— 1, Narcissus biflorus;

traanu Tazetta (variety); 8, Double Narcissus in-

»swtilis:4. Fridllaria pyrenaica- M. if—Very

t aoc, indeed ; quite worth transplanting to a
in -— S. G. Bole— Apparently Da vail la canadensis*
•4 fee certain without seeing a fruiting froud ana

— Mediae*. — Veratrum nigrum.- White

£•—Ubonla floribunda, easily propagated from cut-

Soil good sandy loam and

"igitii

VjU

cut- a s

11413.—Birds and Peas.—Will anyone tell me
how to prevent birds taking Peaa when 6 inches high,
and also when in pod 7 I find it easy enough to stop
them until the guards have to be removed, bat as soon
as this is done they set to work and strip them My
gardener has tri**d soot and petroleum, bat without
success. In my district we are overrun with birds, and
last year they almo t cleared my rows of Peas, eutiog far
more than were used in the house. I have thought of
poisoned wheat, but hardly like to use it. Would a
hawk, such as is used to make birds lie to dogs, be of any
use T I have abo heard of sham cats being used, but I
do not know whether they answer. It is almost useless
attempting to grow Peas here unloss I can find Borne
means of preventing these depredation?, and I should be
much obliged if someone would name a remedy.—
HETEO.

11414 —Clematis with small flowers —I have a
Clematis, Lady Londesborough, on which flowers ap¬
peared in March (much too early though in a greenhouse),
and were ail of a pale green tint, a very lew were of
a bluish colour with a reddish bar in the petals, whereas
when it flowers in its proper Bummer season the flowers
are azure blue with a pale bar down the petals. This is
the third >ear it has pnt out these odd-coloured flowers
in spring. Last year it did not do bo but flowered
properly and luxuriantly for three months in summer.
At first the plant was not very thriving, though It always
flowered a second time and yielded blooms of the proper
colour. Last year it only flowered in the summer, and
the plant is most luxuriant and healthy just uow, so that
slcklinesB cannot be the cause of this strange freak. Can
anyone enlighten us on the subject ?—8. W.

11416.—Beans going mouldy.—I planted some
Broad Beans, Taylor’s Broad Windsor. Tho seed came
from a trustworthy house, and was everything that
could be wished for, being large, clean, hard, and well
harvested seed. They were planted March 17, and what
is germinating are just coming through, but two-thirds
of them are quite mouldy or mildewed. My land is very
light, rather loamy, and the manure used was pig
manure, half rotten, laid in a trench covered with soil,
and the beans dibbled in. Can any reader tell me the
cause of this, and remedy if there is one?— G. Beau¬
mont.

11410.—Heat for Melons.—I have a Melon house,
in which there Is a pit 6 feet wide running the entire
length of the house, with a flow* and return hot-water
pipe 1 foot from front wall for bottom heat. Last year
some boards were placed across the pit about 9 inches
above the pipes, with the soil on them for growing the
Melons in. Would it not be better to have a narrower
pit, say 2 feet wide, to enclose the pipes, placing some
rubble on them, and the loam on the rubble ? When
there is a space between the pipes and the soil, I think
a great deal of heat Is wasted, or would the heat from
the pipes dry the soil too much?—C. H. S.

Il4l7.-Gum on Camellia leaves.— What is the
cause of a gummy moisture which appears on the sur¬
face of the leaves of a large Camellia, which Is looking
very healthy and growing freely in my cool conservatory ?
I am unable to detect any blight on the plant (which was
carefully washed over about six weeks ago with a sponge
and water), but the gummy liquid seems to exude from
the branches, and I suppose some of it falls on the
leaveB as there are large drops on some of them, but
other leaves are covered with verymlnute drops like the
finest dew.

11418.—Honeysuckle dying. — A large Honey¬
suckle which covered my porch, has apparently died;
at least, many of its main branches are dead and some
have only sickly shoots apparent, when the wild Honey¬
suckles are in full leaf. 1 know of no cause for this un-

f le&sant state of affairs, and should like to know whether
had better cut it back to the root and trust to its grow¬
ing again, or do away with it altogether, and plant
another?—C. H., Winchester.

11419.— Sweet Williams and Pinks.— Will any
reader kindly tell me what is the matter with my Sweet
Williams and Pinks? They were sown on the 16th uf May
laBt, and some 1 planted out about August, leaving the
rest in the Beed bed till February last. The leaves on
the whole of them turn yellow and dry up and the stems
sometimes rot. I cannot make this out,as my neighbour’s

S lants of the same kind look gTeen and healthy. I be-
eve he sowed his about June. I get the sun nearly all
day ; also the situation Is dry.—V ernon.

11420.—Plants for Bhady house.— I have en¬
closed a small space in our back premises (three side and
the roof of glass), but as the sun never shines on it and 1
have no means of heating it, I am told nothing will grow
there. Is this so ? Can I not raise ferns, and if so, what
kinds would likely to succeed, and give variety? The
floor is filled in with comaon soil, and there are three
towb of shelves for pots. Any advice or assistance will
be most highly appreciated —Humble Effort.

11421.- Steaming Cucumbers.—I have just built
span roofed house, 18 feet by 10 feet, for the purpose of
o^ing Cucumbers. In a shed at the end of the house

I put a furnace and ran a flue under the centre of the
beds, and put a cauldron over the furnace so as to have a
supply of hot water. If I lead a pipe from the lid of the
cauldron through the partition wall into the house and
daily admit hot steam, would It be beneficial to the

I riants, of which there are ten in the house looking well;
f so, what time of the uay would be best to do it ?—A
Notice.

11422.— Aloine Auriculas — When is the proper
time to sow Alpine Auriculas, and would th< y do well
on a rockery in the augL of a north wall and east fence T
The soil, consisting of ditchings, rather clayey and road¬
side sand—clay at the bottom and sand on the top.
Would it be better to plant them out in autumn or keep
them in a cold frame till next spring 7—Rockery.

11423.—Leaves of Phloxes curling.— Can any¬
one inform me why the leaves of late Phloxes curl up ?
The plants do not appear to be too dry at the roots.
Also, I have lost nearly all my early varieties. The roots
have rotted nearly away during winter. My neighbours
have lost theirs in the same way. Should I lift them
and keep them in a frame through the winter ? Any in¬
formation will be gladly received.—J. B.

11424.— Roses with pale blooms. — Can any
reader inform me what is the reason of my Martchai
Niel RoBe blooms being off colour? The plants are strong
and healthy, and the buds well formed, but on opening,
they a*-e all a delicate Pe»<-green instead of yellow. The
house is not heated, but the plants which are trained up
the glass get plenty of light audair.—A. P.

11426—Paraffin oil and Insects—I have been
advised to syringe greenhouse plants with paraffin oil
and water (quarter of pint to one gallon of water) when
infested with gree-nfly, and young t'eas with a stronger
solution, to preserve from mice. Is this a safe and effi¬
cient remedy ? -A. L, G.

11426.—Thrips on plants.—In the case of plants
which are infested with thrip, are tha blvck or dark
brown spots which may be seen thickly scattered over
the loaves, tho excrement of the insect or the eggs, or
what are they ? While watching an insect on a leaf the
other day, I saw it expel one of these dark drops or spots
from the tip of its taiL

11427.— Making a herb bed —I wish to make a
herb bed on ground having a north aspect. Would it do
to pnt Box cuttlugs in uow so as to get a little shelter
for the bed, and would the soil, which is a stiff loam, do
for the cuttlugs, or had 1 better get some lighter Boil to
plant them in ? or would Privet cuttings be better for
the purpose ? Any information would bo thankfully re¬
ceived. —Boxwood.

11428.- Crocuses after flowering. — Can any
reader tell me what to do with my Crocuses now they
have done flowering? I have planted some hundreds
round the edge of my flower bed and want them to re¬
main in the ground until next spring. What can I
plant over them in bedding out in Jane not to kill them
for next year?—J. Coulson.

11429 —Diseases in Pelargoniums. — I have
someBhow Pelargoniums which seem to be decaying in
patches all over the stem and the leaves turning yellow.
The plants up till now were quite healthy and showing for
bloom. What is the cause, and what can be done with
them?—F. A. S.

11430.— Cyclamens after blooming. — It was
stited In Gardening last week that Cyclamens must be
kept in a close atmosphere after blooming. Will some
one say how loog they have to be kept so ? do they want
much water 7 and do they require a rich soil ? I shall
be very glad of any Instructions.— Oakleioh.

11431.— Potting Indiarubber plants. — Will
someone kindly say if the Indiarubber plant, Ficus
elastica should be repotted this spring, and what kind of
soil should be used ? I bought the plant last spring from
a gardener, and it has just thrown out one fresh leaf.—
A. B. Z.

11432.— Vallotas and Eupatoriume. — Is the
Vallota a good window plant, and what soil does it re¬
quire ? also, how am I to treat the white winter Eupa-
torium, in order to have it in flower at Christmas 7— Yule
Loo.

11433.— Treatment of Bouvardlas—Will some
reader kindly tell me how to treat Bouvardlas 7 Though
kept In a warm greenhouse the leaves of mine always
turn brown and fall off. Can they be kept out-of-doora
during summer'?— Castor.

11434.—Ammoni* for plants. -A friend has given
me some pare liquid ammonia of full strength, and I
should like to use it as a liquid manure. In what pro¬
portion should I use it to one gallon of water for that
purpose?— Georoe Palmer.

11436.—House slops for Roses.—Will ordinary
house slops do as liquid manure for Rosea in open
ground? and if so, with what quantity of water should
they be diluted ? If this will not do, what is the best
liquid manure to use?— North Wales.

11436.—Spot on Pelargonium leavea— I
should be glad If someone wonldi enlighten me as to the
cause of my best show Pelargonium leaves all going
spotted. It spoils the looks of my plants. Also, what
•oil suits show Pelargoniums best.— Novice.

11437.— Annual for rockery. — Having made a
rockery and not wishing to plant It permanently now, I
should like to know of a suitable annual to sow on it.—
Rockery.

11438 —Young Primulas.—I have Bown some Pri¬
mula seed ; will someone kindly say how I am to manage
the young plants when they come up? Do they require
soil ?— Oakleioh.

11489.—Celandine.—Can anyone inform me anyway
of expeditiously getting rid of a most fertile weed called
Celandine ? My shrubbery is overrun with it. I thought
of salt, but am afraid of the shrubs.—E. H. W.

11440.—Striking cuttings in water —In striking
cuttings of Aucuba, Ficus elastica, <fcc., in a bottle of
water, should the stem of the cutting be immersed in
the water, or only just dipped into it?—R. A.

11441 .—Narcissi ana Marguerites —I am very
desirous of growing in my gardon NkicIiV. (double and
single) and Marguerites (yellow). I shall feel obliged If
someone will iniitraojt me bow to set about it.—A. B. Z

NA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[April 26,11

88

11442.—Taking 1 up Gladioli bulbs.—la it ab«o-
lutely necetaary to take up and store the Gladiolus in
the autumn If the bulbs are placed 6 inches deep in the
border?—R. A.

11443 — Nlcotiana afflcis.— I shall be much obliged
for full particulars of this plant as to when to sow it, the
heat required, and whether it can be propagated by
cuttings? I have seed.—M. C. H.

11444.- Evergreen for Wall— Conld anyone kindly
tell rne the name of an Evergreen (not Ivy) that will
prow fast? I thould like it to flower if pos-ible. It is
fora wall facing north on which Roses grow well.—W. U.

11445.—C©Ma coccinea.—Will some reader kindly
give me full directions for managing Celsia coccinea ?
Mine appears to be fading and leaves turning yellow—
E. H D.

11446 —Vines bleeding— Would someone kindly
tell me how to stop a Grape Vine from bleeling after
being cut?—A. 8. F.

11447.—Wild Coltsfoot—Can any reader tell from
experience the best way to eradicate Tusailago or Wild
Coltsfoot fTom land under cultivation ?— Midlothian.

11448— Ivy on Oak trees— Kindly inform me In
early edition if Ivy growing on an old Uak tree is likely
to prove hurtful to the tree ?—M. C.

11449—Evergreens for arches—What Evergreen
would be best to cover a wire arch in an exposed situa¬
tion?— Nil Desperandum.

11450—Brompton Stocks—If I sow Brompton
Stocks now, when will they bloom ?— Eliza.

BEES,

Transferring bees—Will “8. 8. G.” en¬
lighten me upon the following points : In recent
numbers he speaks of straw skeps with sections
on top; also of Neighbour’s hives. I have a
stock of bees in a worn-out skep, and if I hive
the swarm in either of these hives, will they
give me supers or glasses of surplus honey ? If
I drive remaining bees, will they also give
surplus honey ? If I ought not to allow swarm¬
ing, how shall 1 transfer the bees to a new
hive ? If no swarm is allowed, shall I get
swarm and surplus honey next year ? What
size should the holes be in “excluder zinc ” ?—
Amateur. [A strong early swarm put into a
straw hive will give surplus honey same season,
weather permitting, but will be much more cer¬
tain of doing 60 if hived into a movable comb
hive furnished with comb foundation. If the
colony in the old straw hive is strong and in
good condition, super honey could probably be
obtained before swarming takes place by cut¬
ting a piece of straw-work, about 3 inches in
diameter, out of the top of the hive, covering
the hole with queen excluder zinc, and placing
over it a straw cap, or a case of sectional boxes.
This should be done upon signs of crowding
being observed, or the bees b&Dging out at the
entrance of the hive. This, however, may delay
swarming, or even prevent it. If it be wished
to transfer the colony from which a swarm
has issued to a straw hive, it must be done by
driving twenty-one days after the swarm has
left, as all brood will by then have hatched out.
Transferring to bar-frame hives can be done at
any time during mild weather in the following
manner: Having driven the bees into an empty
skep, place a piece of soft material upon a
board rather larger than tbe frames, and upon
this two pieces of tape. Cut out a comb from
the old hive-this operation will be greatly
facilitated if the hive be first cut in two be¬
tween the central combs; lay the comb upon
the board and a frame upon the comb. If the
comb be larger than the frame, it must be so
cut and pared as to make it fit as firmly as pos¬
sible, and the tapes tied round the comb outside
the top and bottom bar. Raise the board to an
upright position, and place the bar, now con¬
taining the comb, in the hive, and repeat till
all the combs are used, taking care to keep the
brood combs warm, and to place them in the
centre of the hive. Surplus honey is seldom
obtained the same season from a colony that
has thrown off a swarm. The excluder zinc
having retangular perforations is the best. It
can be obtained of any dealer in bee-keeping
appliances— 8 8. G. t Boacrcorth.']

Houdans Ill— Two of my hens have given
over laying, and their bodies are very large and
almost drag on the ground. They are also very
dirty behind, and appear to have diarrhcea.
They are also very fat, and appear to walk in
pain. I should be pleased to have information
how to treat them, and cause them to begin to
lay again ; also the best preventive. They have
unlimited Grass run,— Gardener. [This is not
at all an uncommon case, and is due entirely to

Digitized by

boogie

overfeeding. Your birds are too fat by far. The
only remedy is to let them sit for five or six
weeks on dummy eggs, feeding very sparingly
on plain food. Rice is as good as anything.
First, however, give an aperient, say half a grain
of calomel, three days a week for about ten days.
Tbe diarrhoea is probably not present. The rent
being so near the ground causes fouling.—
ANDALUSIAN]

WORTH KNOWING.

■w

Why. that all plant* sent out by us are guaranteed to give
sati>fact on ; if not found so,m >oey at onoe returned The un¬
dermentioned plant* are aU selected from a large number of
vaiietles aod will be found the beet in ea~h clast
4 Splendid new Fuchsias, raised by Mr. G Fry: Mr. Glad¬
stone Mrs Langtry. Mr. Fawoett, and White Unique.
2s eaoh. the aet 7a. See catalogue.

12 Beet single and double Fuchsias, inducting Mrs. Bundle
and Ethel Fry. the beat double white, 3s. 2d.

12 ditto, from store pots, well rooted Si 2d.

50 ditto, from single pots, 10s : 25. 5« 6d
12 Beet single ZonU Geraniums, 3a. 9d
12 Bast double do.. 3e 9d

12 Beat double Ivy-leaf do. Including Jeanne d'Aio, tbe
beet new doable white, 4s
6 Beautiful Lautauaa. la. 8d

12 Lobelia Improved magnifies, gra«d bedder, la. fid.

12 do. White Q ieeo beet white, la. 3d
6 of George's new Abu til one. 3s. Cd
12 Select do , 8*. fid

12 N ootlaaa afliuLs easy to grow, sweet scented, free growing,
everyone’s daut, 2a 4d

3 each Musk, Harrison's Variegated and Giant, Is 2d
12 Begonias, dry tubes from Laiug'a strain, 3s. 6d. ; large do,
4s 6d

12 Tro. solum Fireball, scarlet climber, la fid
It Beet named fring'd and atiiped Petunias 4s. fid
12 Oaloeolaria Golden Gem. Is. 21 and la 81.

12 Single Petunia naua compacts, only 6 inches high, free
flowering. 2s 2d.

12 do., hybridised with tbe best double (we anticipate some
beautiful varieties), 2a 6d
12 tgeratums in four best dwarf varieties, la. 2d
12 Outtioga of the beautiful uew single Chrysanthemum,
7a. fid

12 Choice Chrysanthemums. Ss. 2d ; root'd cuttings, 2s. 2d.
12 Best summer flowering Chrysanthemums, 4a ; rooted cut-
tinea, ». 2d

3 Most distinct Heliotropes. White Lady, President Gar¬
field and 8warley Giant, la 21.

6 Marguerites, including the Blue, la fid.

6 Blue Marguerites, la 41
12 Beautiful single Dahlias dry tubeis, 3s. fid
12 do., from seed pan, ready to pot on, la 61
12 Best double show aod fancy, 3s. 2d
6 Best Pompone Dahlias la. 8d

All free for cash with order. P.O O. payable Loampit Vale,
Catalogue free.

JONES & NORTH

HOPE NURSERY, LEWISHAM.

The Hope Nurseries, Bed ale,

YORKSHIRE.

Established 1785.

HENRY MAY

OFFERS THE FOLLOWING GOOD THINGS
Marguerites, or Paris Daisies, yellow, strong plants, 3a. per

Marguerites, white, strong plants, 2a per dozen.

Aquileglas or Columbines—

., glandulosa, blue and white, one-year old plants,
3s. per doze".

Aquilegi* Skinnerl, scarlet and yellow, one-year-old plants,
3s per dozen.

Aquiltgia chrysantba, yellow, one-year-old plants, 3s. per
dozen.

P>rethrums, fine for cutting, in 60 first-rate named varie¬
ties 3s per dozen.

P^ut«temoDS, mixed seedlings one-year-old plants, from a
good collection of named sorts, 2s per dozen.

Pansies, seedlings, strong plants, saved finest fanoy and
show varieties la per dozen

Daisies, double red good dumps, 3s. per 103.

, double white „

Polyanthus, giant strain, mixed, strong plants, 7a per 100.

Carnations seedlings, one-year-o d plauta, 3a. per dozen

Primula c irtusoides, strong flowering plants. 2 b. per dozen.

Paosttw for bedding. 7s per 100—Duchess of Edinburgh,
Tory. Oiivrden Blue, and Purple.

Pelargoniums, strong bushy plants in 4^-lnoh pots in bud
Show, French, and 3 pot ten kinds including Triomphe de 8t.
rim and Dr. Masters, ho. 8*. per dozen.

hiasturtium, fine double red va< let* (Hermine Grsshoff), la
per dozen ; also Tom Thumb (crimson). Ruby King am press
of India (dark crimson), King Theodore (blaok), 8d per dos.

Heliotropes, strong rooted plants, Is per dos.

Fuchsias strong rooted plants. 2s per dozen, ino'uding suoh
as AvaJ&ndie, Edelweiss, Lucy Finals, and Amerioan Banner

Dahlias, single, strong seedilags fine named, la. per dozen.
,, single pot roots, named 2a. fid dozen.

„ fine sh <w and fanoy varieties 3s p«-r dozen.

Gladiolus, a floe collection of ntmeo kinds,4s to fie pi r doz

Hardy herbaceous and a pine p ants, a good collection of
300 kinds, 3a. doz , 90s. per 100.

Asters I scony fi . from collections, fid per score.

Hlooks dwarf. German Ten-week double, 6d. per score.

Marigolds, French, selected fid per soi*re,

„ African, -elected fid. per score.

Musk, sweet-scented 2s per dozen.

Satisfaction guaranteed, or money refunded.

Orders of 2s. carriage paid. P.O.O. payable at
Bedalt.

"FOR short time only,—50 clearance packets of
-- —A- ALLEN, The

UNIVE

A FLOWER SEEDS. Is, post free
Dell, Woburn, Beacons field.

NEW THING!

FROM

STUART & MEIN’!

Ail the articles offered by us are of the very but .-a|
the very lowest prior-, and will give purchuen ti-
satisfaction All catalogues gratis sod free bj pc* J
Seeds, to., delivered free on receipt of postal or pm 4
orders.____ J

\TE W DOUBLE PETUNIAS. — The* *

Lv amongst the flee it subj-ota for tbe amsfeutpi
house, or as window plants, giving a large etpplj cf 3 1
coloured, perftetiy double, fringed swat i a

diameter. 8pl-ndid new v&neHee . (treat pKzu,lid
9.. per dozen, free.—8TUABT k MFI g ebefai&a

MEW SHOW PENTSTEMONS.-Spkrf

-Li Large-fl iwtring varieties ; will give a mod it,M
the most brilliant colours from August till Noneted
valuable fur autumn exhibitions, btrong plant* oifrg
new variet ee to name, 4s and 6s. per dozen. fxrt.-fcUJ
k MEIN, Kelso, Scotland

\IEW ZONAL PELARGONIUMS.-A pi

-Lv improvement ha* betn tffrttel in these, botfciinf

pip an a t u<s We offer the best new varietlet of ti n
and no'ed »how kinds in strong, autamn-rtita <
plants 9<L. Is., and Is. €4 each carefully packed tall
STUART k MEAN, Kelso. Bootland

JJKWTtoUBUS PYRKTHRUMi-W

UUBLK P .

large quanrity of handsome cut flown

which will stand well in water aod w thoc; fwfcy

beautiful and easily-grown hardy ptrenn sis ihnollti!

sively grown. Choice new named varieties of

colour 4a per dozen ; 20s. per 100 free. Plant covieiJ

this season.—8TUART k MEIN, Kelso, Scotland

flHOlCE HARDY PERENNIALS from (

—We offer collections of really choice v»rteti*t i

very sweetly scented, and all excellent for cut flovsn

now in open air and transplant m July to flowenaq qs

12 varieties ((Inert) 5a.; 24 varieties, 7*. 6d ■ SOterki^l

100 varieties. >5.. free.—*TUART % M*lW

OiAFELiA BUfUMA.-'luis p ut vi
G can be grown in a greenhouse if kept i»n a »hii &*|

glass, has, we believe, the oia-i. gun hed honour J fees

ugliest iu the whole vegetable ziegdom; add *o t>i

smell, which is on a par with the colour. It ir

•• Toad Flower,” and is well named; sn undoubted at

D . each, free -STUAR T It MEIM, Kal . 0 . BootU sd

HARNATION SEED, extra choice, saved fd

LI the beet double flowers. These are at taihsni

where largo quantities of out flowers tra re-jui-ri f

profute fluweriDg. rich colours, deiioioos perfuse. i:J

listing power render them quite indispeocsbic. Se t I

May to August iu rich soil, and transplant in

2a fid. 5-.. and 10 a per packet, free.—8riJAET4lI
Kelso Scotland.

TREE, or PERPETUAL CARNATION

-L every garden where winter flowers »re In rtr,z&

of these should be grown for their viceeding bswuv uJ

granoe. Treat as above, nut transplant into potmd*

to greenhouse ia October. Easily grown. Is, h W.>-|

10s. per paoket free.-STUART k MEIN, Ktlsc. Saii

MOT TOO LATE YET’-All the seecil

Lv plants advertised in these columns are tfS unr

but as wa have new things to offer tnece anno nsscs"

withdrawn. Catalogues of donate’ flowers and cite

n ow ready —MTUART k MEIN, Kelso. Pcotlsad

rPHE LYON LEEK..—In answer
-L inquiries we beg to cay that Dlanta of this
»how Leek will be ready if weather keep*
middle of May. Orders booked before tb*t thnevulhj
cuted first la per coore, post free.—STUART 4 Ml
Kelso, Bootland.____.

rjOLEUS.—Newest and most showy mil

v including Pomps lour, The Queen, to. rir®*[
2 a fid. per dos, 6 for 1 a 4d.—J. 8. HE WARD, FtoiU^
hsmpton.

SINGLE DAHLIAS.-Seedlings from a*
D varieties, such as Paragon, Whl e Queen,
to. Fine strong sturdy p:ants, from 3-inch pcu. h*
doA ; 0 for 2 a

rLLOXINIAS, Suttons’ Superb Strain.-^

IT tubers in growth, 4s per dez , 6 for 2b 34 ; txbi#
ditto, very large tubers, 7s. per dox. ; 4 fox 3s M.

TUBEROUS BEGONIAS, Laing’s unmd

■L strain. Good «ound tubers, 3 a fid. per dor
extra strong ditto fie. per dot, eaabracmg all the bm-
shades of red. salmon, and pink. A11 carefully pariri.
post tree, from

J. S. HEWARD, I

Arundel Nursery, Littlehampton,

Du StLb ! KOdES 11 ROSES '! !-0n own J

-Lv to dear ground, six named varieties in vigwoas m
3s. 9d. dozen; Bengal Ruses, fine bushes 3i 3d <r
Bouvardia Hun-boldtl. four Is. 2d ; Bigccrh r»-
ihree Is 2d. ; Chimananthus fragrant, three 1* 2d; Ud
montsna, three Is. 2A ; Cydoni* japopics. tta« k-
Forayvhta viridissima, three Is Id. ; Flnmbsfolt-’W
three 1 a 2d.; Hydrangea 1 hoa Hogg, pure 1
1 a 2d. ; Jasminum, white, thre* la. 2d : ditto jreOo*-
1 a 2d. All carriage paid.—HENRY avd CO.. Bciao
se* y. Amersham, Bucks _

PIYPRIPEUIUM INv^lGNE.-ThwH^o

yJ cool OtchidA strong flowering plants Is earb; tvei
Lapageria alb* (true) 18 inchee 7* ; 30 inches is ;
lfc. 6u. ; L rosea, la. 4d. each; Pernett/S oiaorocsu.
wsx-Uke berries, three K ; Deutzia (enable), fas 1» - *
four L» 2d. Primula Japonic*, floe flowric; P
four la 94 ; Aquilegia glandulosa, true, thiee u 3i ; C
lug Rose*, four Is. 24 All otm*g-< pall— HENEi
QO, Hoimer Nursery Ameranaaa, BnckA _

»TOBKROU8 BhGONlA BULBS (rtar

-L torn blooms 5 Inches aor as, three 1 a 24 : J* $1
Gloves, white and crimson, fonr Is. 24 ; 3s doi: <
white Osmjanul*. double yellow PoteDtHls. Mule
Achillea Ptarmica fl -pi, »U 3 a doz -siz la 9L; Yin'*)
six 1a ; Vluca variegata, four 1a ; Lobelia cardinslW
dens, flowering crownA four 1* 2d. ; double while R<
four 1 a 24.: yellow Paris Daisies three 1* 24;
four 1*. Id All ittrriage bee —HENRY * CO., Holms
sery, Amen ham, Bucks.

RSITY OF ILLIM0I5 AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

MAY 3, 1884.

No. 269.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued, from page 78 . J

The Paar.

.’here the Apple thrives, the Pear will gene-
illy succeed, as the two are closely related,
cd are both native fruits in their original forms,
a regards the preparation of the site, the needs
f both are identical or nearly so ; and in warm,
aeltered, well-drained situations many of the
etter class dessert Pears might be tried as

Standards.

Iarie Louise, Williams’s Bon Chretien, Louise
jonne of Jersey, and others of equal hardiness,
rill succeed under favourable circumstances in
aany places. The fruits from the open, exposed
rees are often superior in flavour to the same
ariety on a wall, except in the best aspects,
bough the wall-fruit will, of course, always be
>f larger size. Standard Pears may be planted
rearer to each other than Apples, as the branches
rrow more erect and less spreading. Twenty
eet will be ample space between the trees, and
rirh an undergrowth of bush fruits the ground
rill bs profitably occupied till the Pears come into
taring. Lifting and replanting the Pear trees
it the end of the fifth or sixth year, and laying
ihe roots out to within inches or 10 inches of the
mrface, will tend to hasten the period of per¬
manent fruitfulness; without this is done on
some soils, the roots of the trees will run down,
and years may elapse before a full crop of fruit
is gathered. As the seasons are now, the chief
end and aim of the fruit grower should be to
keep the roots of the trees near the surface, and
feed them by strewing rich mulchings over them
never using the spade, though a steel fork
may be employed to lighten up and rerate the
surface in the spring.

Pyramids.

There are several varieties of this style of tree.
There is the open unpruned pyramid, either on
the Pear stock or on the Quince, and which is
treated on the principle recommended for stan¬
dard trees in the orchard, i e. % to be pruned a
little at first to secure form and balance, but
afterwards to use the knife only so far as is
necessary to give the branches a free circulation
o! light and air. ISuch treeB must have plenty of
space to develop into good sized trees, and would
make handsome background trees on the lawn,
or the foreground of the shrubbery. As regards
the pruned pyramids, whether they are on the
Quince or the Pear, the cultivator must make up
his mind as to the course he intends to pursuo
beforehand. As a rule, any system which is im¬
perfectly understood is very likely to be imper¬
fectly carried out, and the end will not be
satisfactory. To build up a handsome pyramid
the natural upward growth must be checked,
and this can only be done by pinching the
growth in summer, and by a very judicious
application of the knife in winter, aided
by an occasional lifting of the roots. No
one should be allowed to pinch or prune
the branch of a tree without thinking out the
whole matter of the object sought to be obtained,
and the probable effect which such-and-such
operation will have upon the work in hand.
We know if we take a young Pear shoot, say
for instance, from 6 inches to 8 inches long,
and pinch or cut out its point, the first effect
will be to throw additional work upon the
leaves and buds below. The sap which had
found a channel upwards would force its way
laterally, and for a time, till the develop¬
ment of new outlets, the strengthening of the
hack parts would be effected, and this diffusion

I ’ growing force would never again be altogether
ly centralised. In the course of time, it is
e, new outlets would be made, but if these
turn were judiciously stopped, the main buds
i leaves at the base would receive a new im-
l*e which would assist in making them strong,
ading shoots, unless they become gross, should
nain unstopped, as well as all shoots which
y ultimately be utilised in the formation
the tree, and these will constitute per¬
cent outlets for growing force. The
ilding up of pyramidal Peara cannot be

Digitized by

Google

done without the use of the knife, or at least
without pruning. Bat if we start with a maideD
tree, after cutting back the maiden shoot, time
will be gained if the next year's growth be
pinched in summer, when as much wood has
been made as will constitutes reasonable annual
progress. To leave all the yoang wood in a tree,
if it is to be submitted to any kind of training,
for even a short period after the annual progress
has been arranged for, is calculated to upset the
tree’s balance, and cause it to lo3e form and
condition. Besides, trees which bear their fruit
on spurs, either on those of natural or artificial
creation, should never be permitted to run their
strength to waste—a way commonly done by
those who will take no pains to master the why
and wherefore of summer pruning.

Espaliers.

I look upon this as the very best and simplest
of all kinds of training for the Pear. The only
objection is the cost of the espalier wires, though
this is not so much as it was a few years ago.
Espalier Pears are never out of place. They
may be planted in successional ranks or lines,
filling up a whole quarter or a large space any¬
where with a tolerable certainty that the chances
of failure are very remote, or if they fail, no
other kind of tree would have been likely to
succeed in that particular situation. It will be
better to have the espaliers erected before the
trees are planted, though not absolutely neces¬
sary. No one now-a-days should erect espaliers
less than 5 feet high, and they may with advan¬
tage be higher. If strong, well grown maiden
trees can be had, I should recommend them, but
rather than plant weak maidens I should select
good trees one year trained. No one can dig up
a tree and move it from one part to another of
the same garden without checking its growth,
and though this may not inflict any injury upon
a robust subject, it would probably in j are the
weakly tree, but if the tree so transplanted had
to undergo a journey from perhaps a distant
nursery, its debilitating effect would remain for
a long time. This is why I think weak maidens
should not be moved at all the first year. The
mode of clothing the wires of an espalier with
branches is well understood by most, and indeed
the whole matter is so simple as to need but
little explanation. The formation of the tree
begins at the bottom, and to give the bottom
branches a start, the central or leading shoot is
headed back to the second wire. And for the
first three or four years, at any rate, only one
pair of branches should be made annually. Later
on, when the growth becomes more rapid, some¬
times two pairs of branches may be started by
pinching the leader in summer back to the wire,
and laying in a pair of laterals, which will gene¬
rally break away at the point stopped. When
the espaliers are more than 5 feet high, the

Palmette Verrier

system of training may be adopted with advan¬
tage. This, I need hardly tell many of my
readers, is a modification of the horizontal and
the vertical. The shoots are led off from the
main central stem in pairs, at first horizontally, to
the outside of the space the tree is intended to
cover, and are then led upwards vertically till
the top of the fence or wall is reached, the
system being just as well adapted for wall train¬
ing as for espaliers. All the future branches
are manipulated in exactly the same manner. It
is exceedingly simple, and it tends to keep the
bottom well furnished, which the espalier system,
pure and simple, sometimes fails to do. It is
also an expeditious way of furnishing a given
space. A word here as to the use to be made of
the Qaince stock. They are useful in ungenial
soils and situations, but should not be employed
where the soil is light, or the fruit will be gritty
and small, and the trees be short-lived. The
9 tock in all cases should be buried in planting,
and the trees be heavily mulched in summer.
The manure should be raked off in February,
and the surface be lightly stirred up with a fork;
this will sweeten it, and correct the close, pasty
character which a foil always covered assumes.
Before the weather becomes very dry, the mulch
should be renewed.

Cordons.

This system of training has not yet come
generally into cultivation, though no doubt it is
destined to fill an important niche in the fruit
growers’ repertoire. There are plenty of vacant
spaces on garden walls where one or two
branched cordons might profitably be planted.
They may be trained in any direction, either up¬
right or more or less oblique, the latter being the
best shape, as vertical training has a weakening
effect upon the base always, and should not, ex¬
cept under circumstances where it cannot well
be avoided, be adopted. In no case, if perma¬
nency be desired, should a less space than
12 inches be left between the main branches,
and it will, in the long run, be found better
to give a little more rather than less. As
years roll on, the reason of this will become
obvious. Good foliage and stroug fruitful buds
cannot be reared without an abundance of light,
and close training does not permit of this. This
may not be so evident for the first few years, but
after a time the spurs spread out, and the foliage
from the laterals on one branch meet and over¬
lap, it may be, its neighbour’s, shutting out its
legitimate share of sunshine, and destroying, or
at least injuring, its chance of continuing fruit¬
ful. This will be more apparent near the centre
of the trees, and very much mischief is now being
done by this covetous method of training fruit
trees, covering up amid a dense mass of foliage
every bit of bare wall, forgetting that one of the
objects of the wall is to improve the climate by
absorbing the sun’s rays during the day, and
giving the heat off again at night. Cordon Pears
or Apples may be used to utilise any bit of land
where the situation is sheltered but not shaded.
Wherever it is convenient to strain a wire, there
a Pear tree may be planted. A bit of land may
be covered with wires strained a foot or so from
the ground, and 18 inches apart, and quite a
collection of Pears be planted, and a most in¬
teresting collection it may become, only the
roots must be kept near the surface, and if on
the Qaince, the surface must be heavily mulched.
Such trees will often escape spring frosts, when
the blossoms on larger and taller trees will be des¬
troyed, and they may also be very easily protected,
and a crop be made a matter of certainty.

Pears on Walls.

The valuable late fruits should occupy the best
aspects, and the early ripening sorts, such as
the Jargonelle, Doyenne d’Ete, Ac., be planted
on the worst. As a rule, the east and west
aspects are planted with Pears, the south wall
being reserved for Apricots and Peaches. The
mode of training Pears on walls is a mere matter
of taste. The tree thrives so well under any
system of training, that no one system need be
exalted at the expense of another. If I have
any preference it is in favour of the horizontal,
to be merged into the Palmette Verrier for tall
walls. The training in the last two methods is
so simple, and there is no danger of being
tempted to crowd too much wood in as there is
with fan training. The distances between the
trees must depend upon the nature of the soil,
the mode of training, &o., and if the trees are
on the Qaince or the Pear. Wherever the soil is
good and deep, or can be made so, have the
trees on the Pear stock, usiDg the Qaince on
cold heavy soils only. On the Pear stock trained
horizontally, plant from 15 feet to 18 feet apart;
if on the Qaince, half that distance will suffice.
Fan-trained trees may be planted from 14 feet
to 16 feet apart; palmettes, from 7 feet to 10feet,
or 12 feet is a good distance and permits of
the wall being quickly covered; cordons,
18 inches; two-branched cordons, 3 feet.
When the trees have been planted a few years,
they often develop considerable vigour, espe¬
cially where the soil is good. When this period
arrives, it is a good plan to lift the roots, under¬
mining the ball so as to reach any that may be
running down perpendicularly. Sometimes
the trees may be altogether lifted out and re¬
planted, especially if they are too crowded : or if
too much space has been allowed, they may be
drawn nearer to each other. Lifting will give
an opportunity to rearrange them as regards
distance.

Original from

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

ummer Management.

The most important item is the manipulation of
the young growth. The chief work of a plant is
performed by the leaves. In them is concealed
the laboratory where the sap, which comes up
in immense quantities from the roots, is dis¬
tilled as it were, the wa^te passing off into the
atmosphere in the hape of vapour,and the small
modicum of useful matter is spread over the
whole plant in the shape of new growth. Now
it will be easily understood that neither men nor
plants in a too crowded condition can do so
much work as where each has room to
strike out. In fruit growing the sun is every¬
thing. It is not only colour and flavour, it is
the blossom of the fruit in its first germ. It is
the sun which stimulates the action of the leaves
and dissipates ihe crude watery matter from the
young wood, which will, in due crurse, produce
the fertile buds. The intelligent cultivator will
work with the sun all through the summer,
though, of course, only as a very humble
assistant. He will keep the young growth thin,
so that there shall be no overshadowing of one
part by another. In the spring something more
might be done in the way of disbudding. Many
buds burst and grow a few inches, which are no
use as factors for the future crop, hut rather the
reverse, as, if left, they tend to fill the main
branches with useless spurs. These might with
advantage be rubbed off when quite little, as
small leaves that cannot become large enough
to foster a fruit bud are better away altogether.
As the summer advances the joung wood which
forms the key of the position will require very
careful management. Dufc no hard-and-fast line
should be laid down. If the character of each
particular tree be studied, that will form the best
guide as to the best course to adopt. A weakly
tree may have its liberty for a time to feel the
impetus which a larger breadth of leafage will
giveaways insisting that there 6hall be no undue
crowding of parts, as three or four good stout
leave sate bet ter for the work in hand than a dozen
thin puny things. Again, a tree which has settled
down into bearing freely will not overburden it¬
self with useless spray, and the pruner need not
for the sake of uniformity pinch off every spray
or green leaf projecting beyond its fellows.
One of the objects the pi mer should have in
view in summer is to do all in his power to
equalise the flow of sap to nil parts of the tree,
so that it may maintain its fertility all over its
surface. As a rule, the sap flows upwards in
straight or vertical lines with greater freedom
than in any other direction, and when the
summer pruning begins, say about midsummer,
dividing the work into at least two periods,
pruning the top half of the tree three weeks be¬
fore the bottom half, will help to strengthen the
bottom branches by turning a larger flow of Bap
into the bottom of the tree. Daring summer a
tree not well balanced as regards strength can
receive a good deal of help in this way. It is
by working too much by rule of thumb that
trees become debilitated on the one hand or
overgrown on the other. Rightly understood,
the youDg wood in summer gives the cultivator
free control over the tree, and its work. Wher¬
ever there is a gross Bhoot it should be stopped
before it uselessly robs its neighbours. All
leading shoots should be left unstopped till
September; the genUe stimulus these afford will
be very beneficial. There are several ways of per¬
forming the operation of summer pruning. Some
simply cut the young shoots off a couple of
inches or so from the base; others break the
young shoots down, leaving them hanging
attached to the tree by a portion of the bark,
and, perhaps, a fragment of wood. The principle
and intention of this is quite sound, though
it looks untidy. Another way of obtaining the
same object is to pick off all the leaves but four
at the base, and to leave the naked stem for a
time on the trees, catting it off with the scissors
at a later period. The aim and object of both
these methods is to minimise the check whioh
must be given. The same object could be
secured as well by distributing the summer
pruning over a longer period, i e , take the shoots
in rotation as they reached a given size,
and pinch the ends back to four or five leaves.
This seems to me to be the only really rational
system of summer pruning.

Thinning the Fruit.

In the case of both Pears and Apples, this
should be done i£ 4ne fruits are desired. As

Digitized by CjOOQlC

soon as it can be ascertained which fruits are
taking the lead, the trees should be gone over,
and all deformed, imperfect fruits removed. It is
better to have only three or four dozen fine
handsome Pears or Apples on a tree than a much
larger numberof useless specimens, as the latter
only exhaust the trees uselessly. The crop may,
if it is necessary (and it very often is, as few
people have the courage to do enough thinning),
be gone over a second rime, and a final selection
made. This may be deferred till August, as
some of the fruits may be large enough for
baking or stewing them, and the thinnings may
be utilised. E. Hobday.

VEGETABLES.

CULTURE OF SCARLET RUNNERS.

In my opinion no vegetable more eminently
combines the ornamental with the useful than
the Scarlet Runner Bean, and few are so pro¬
fitable and generally popular. At the same time
I should like to see its culture still more ex¬
tended among the proprietors of villa and subur¬
ban gardens, if only for decorative purposes,
such, for instance, as covering arches, porticoes,
or wherever climbers are required, provided
always the positions are warm and sunny.
Runner Beans grow rapidly, require but little
training, and their large and prominently dis¬
posed spikes of scarlet, white, or speckled
blooms, as the case may be, are borne in pro¬
fusion till cut down by frosts; while the blooms,
provided liberal treatment is given, will be
succeeded by clusters of pods, which are very
acceptable in most households. A row may also
be grown in connection with the flower garden,
the running growth in this instance being
stopped near the ground or at any height. For
comparatively small gardens long rows of plants
are not needed to maintain the supply of pods
for the kitchen ; on the contrary, a few isolated
plants, say oppositely in pairs at intervals along
the borders of the principal garden walks, will
be sufficient. Plants trained to tall, strong
stakes will generally yield a surprising quantity
of Beans, and, in addition, are highly ornamen¬
tal. In fact, this is one of the best methods of
growing Scarlet Runners, especially where space
is limited, the single pillars not greatly inter¬
fering with the neighbouring crops, besides
proving more productive than is the case where
either the rows or the plants are crowded. If
rows are preferred, these in common with Peas
may well be disposed next the pathways, there¬
by assuring them abundance of room and light
without detriment to other crops adjoining, or
rather on the garden side.

Sowing in Rows.

As a role the Runner Beans are grown too
thickly, the result being light crops, and, daring
dry seasons especially, of short duration. The
ordinary method of sowing >is in double rows,
these beiDg about 12 inches apart, and
the seed frequently a less distance asunder,
nearly every plant receiving a stake so disposed
as to cross near the points, girding stakes con¬
necting the whole. This I consider to be a mis¬
take, the practice involving much unnecessary
expenditure in the shape of labour and stakes.
Our plan, which I believe to be much more
profitable, is to grow them in single rows 6 feet
apart, the seeds being sown 4 inches to 6 inches
apart, according to its quality, and eventually
thinned out or made good by transplanting, so
as to bring those retained about 12 inches
asunder. To each plant a strong straight stake
is given, these being when inserted from 6 feet
to 7 feet high, and all are laced together with

more stakes in a line 12 inches from the top_

these serving to steady the whole. Between
these rows we sometimes grow two rows of
early Potatoes, but should the ground be too
heavy for these, we grow two or more rows of
early Cabbages or Cauliflowers.

Grown Without Stakes.

Runner Beans may be grown without stakes,
and in some districts in the counties near the
metropolis fields comprising many acres are
devoted by nearly every market grower to their
culture. In their case I may add that the crops
are to a certain extent speculative, their culture
being necessarily expensive. For instance, I
have known flel 1, of Beans sold early in the
season to so culating buyers—who relieve the
grower of all further trouble connected with

[May:

picking and maketing the Beans—at tbi
of £22 per acre, and yet prove a capital
vestment, while perhaps the next season 1
Bean are very plentiful they scarcely i
enough to pay expenses. In small gardeil
where stakes are not available, the field |
may be advantageously adopted, and it ill
the best for securing an extra early supply.^
rows may be disposed 3 feet apart,aid
plants eventually 12 inches to 15 inches a
der. Instead of encouraging the rntj
growths, these should be kept closely stc
If this precaution is neglected the Bear
smothered with growth, and in this etatij
both unsightly and unproductive. Stoppinf
duces the early and continuous formats
large erect spikes of bloom, followed by g
handfuls of pods. As the latter are naruj
heavy, they rest on the ground, and ini
weather get rather dity. For the markets I
have to be washed in tubs of water, but in|
vate gardens the washing may be avoids
giving the plants a mulching of fresh stl
manure, this serving to keep the pods clei
well as preserving moisture about the roots,]

Good Soil.

Runner Beans require and deserve lfl
treatment, in the shape of trem
or deeply dug ground and abundance of
manure. Narrow, Celery-like trenches I do'
recommend, oura beirg about 3 feet wide
two spits deep. They require abundam
moisture at the roots, and an occasional cr
quent supply of ary liquid man ore available
materially benefit them. Ours do not get
of liquid manure, but what little we are abl
secure is given either during showery’ w<
or subsequent to a soaking with clear,
water. If watering is resorted to during
weather—and this is absolutely necessary wl
the ground is shallow and resting perhaps c
gravelly subsoil, or where the ground has
been heavily manured and deeply dug—t hi
soakings should be given, and that before
soil has become very dry. Driblets are of w
avail. It is also advisable to mulch beaviij
either with rough manure or Grass from tb<
mowing machine. We usually sow the seed
during the last week in April or early in May,
and find a second sowing by way of succession
unnecessary. Where no extra pains, how¬
ever, are taken in preparing the ground,
or other cultural details are neglected,
the earliest sown may fail early in the
season, and in anticipation of this it will be ad¬
visable to sow again early in June. The state
employed may be of any length, or from 3 fed
to 9 feet, but in every case tiiey should be in¬
serted early, and the running growth should b*
constantly stopped when the tops are reached,
or otherwise they become top-heavy, and in thii
state do not crop so evenly or heavily ai may
be desirable.

The pods ought to be kept regularly gathered
whether required for consumption or not, as if
allowed to bang and perfect the seeds the crop
ping capabilities of the plants are greatly im¬
paired. If seed is required, instead of allowing
each plant to perfect a few, it will be found a
better plan to devote a few plants, according to
the quantity required, entirely to the production
of seed. The best variety, all things considered,
is the old Dutch Scarlet RuDner; this is more
productive than the larger Champion Banter,
and also realises higher prices in the market*
8 utton’s Giant White produces abundance of
loDg handsome pods, ana these, besides being o.
good quality, are particularly well adapted for
exhibition purposes. I ought, perhaps, to men¬
tion that Beans transplant readily, and may be
sown in boxes and planted out should frost or
slugs and ot her enemies interfere with those sowc
in the ordinary way. & *•

Late peas. —I do not believe in early Pea*
for late sowing, as I have never yet found them
to be better than others, and after Marrows no
one cares for them. It is not long since I rea
an article on Peas, written by a well-known
authority, in which be stated that if asked W
opinion as to the best kind, he should say the - *
Plus Ultra, and if he were questioned as tout
second best, his answer would be Ne
and the same again for the third, and really in
not think he would be far wrong. WelJ. -
Pice Ultra deserves all the praise bestowed upo

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

May 3, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

91

t, but I fihould like to say a word in favour of
be British Queen, which, if not equal or superior
-o Ne Plus Ultra, will run it pretty closely. Al-
hough perhaps the Queen may not be quite so
»ood in colour, the Peas are tender and marrowy
md very fine in flavour. What, however, I like
he Queen for is late cropping, and as it is well
o bave two strings to one’s bow, it is advisable
o bave two sorts of Peas for autumn. I always
iepend on the last named and Ne Plus Ultra for
gathering at that time, a9 it often happens that
he one escapes mildew better than the other, or
asts longer in bearing. The Queen is a robust
^ranching kind, and sets its flowers and swells
tt pods very late in the season, and we generally
iave Peas from it here till they are killed or
spoiled by the frost. To have this or any other
iort really late, or even in quantity during the
jammer, they must have good ground and
pedal cultivation, or dry, hot weather soon puts
in end to their bearing. The way in which we
nanage, and it is a plan I can specially recom-
nend, is to sow the rows at wide intervals and
'row Celery between them. By doing this both
mops are benefited, as the Peas get plenty of
ight and air, and the Celery enjoys for a time
he partial shade which it needs. By following
his course the Peas are sown in the old Celery
reaches, or in others prepared by digging into
hem mannre to a good depth and re-tilling them
o within an inch or two of the surface By
earing them a little lower than the surroundiDg
nr face, water or liquid manure can be given
nore advantageoasly. The distance at which
re bad the rows of Peas apart is 10 feet, and
uring the summer they are kept mulched, to
rhicb I attach great importance; the mulching
hades the ground about the roots, thas keeping
t uniformly cool and moist, and preventing
racking after water is given—a thing sure to
ccur without the covering.—J. 8.

How to proteat Peas from Sparrows.
-Being, as most amateurs are at ibis time of
he year, troabled with the sparrows pulling my
'eaa up as they appear, I hit upon the follow¬
ing cheap and handy plan, which I have no
oabt others will adopt: —l' purchased two
oanda of soft galvanised wire for one shilling,
then got two empty egg cases, each of which
aeasored 5 feet 6 inches in length. I took them
-part and cut the ends into 9-inch lengths and
rora 3 inches to 4 inches deep, according
o the depth of the boards. I next made
toles in the ends about half an inch from
he top and 1 inch apart; after having nailed
he sides on I cut the wire into 6 feet 9 inch
sogths and passed it through these holes which,
ariag done, I twisted tight with a pair of pliers,
have made two and strung them with small
wine, but wire is the best. Not a sparrow goes
ear. One advantage over the ordinary wire
*ea guards is that the sides,being made of wood,
eep the cold winds from the Peas, and being
inches apart do not draw the Peas up. The
epth of the sides varies according to the boards.
If Peas are coming up splendidly. A shilling’s-
rorth of wire will make seven boxes. I make
o many ends the full width of the boards, which
re to go at the end of the rows, the others I
cake about half width, so that the Peas can
?ow under them. I do not put any cross wires
mt leave them their full length, and as soon as
mything touches them they dance, and no
parrows will venture underneath.—G. Beau-
40NT, Tadcotter.

11400 —Rhubarb bursting.— Thia is usually caused
7 or cold winds acting on the delicate skins that
ar* been blanched under long manure and then ex-
-osed.-J. D. E.

Watering plants —This is a most impor-
ant matter, and one which is too often over-
ooked. Plants should never be allowed to
>ecome too dry, and, on the other hand, if water
1 poured promiscuously into the pots without
iret ascertaining whether they require it or not,
ke results will be most unsatisfactory. To the
^experienced this will seem rather a difficult
matter, yet it is one which must be surmounted;
io many plants require more than ordinary care
to ?row them well, that the strictest rules must
be observed. Plants should never be watered
uatil they really require it, but this is such a
delicate subject that no very correct explanation
csn be offered concerning it. Careful watering
does not mean that it should be given in drib-
«eti, but enough should be given at a timelto.

Digitized by i iflOOTc

thoroughly moisten the whole of the soil. It
should then be withheld until the soil has be¬
come dry again, never, however, allowing it to
be 60 much so as to cause the plants to flag,
conditions which can only be arrived at by care¬
ful attention and experience.—T.

HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING.

ARRANGING FLOWERS IN BASKETS.
The accompanying illustration of a flower
basket may perhaps afford a suggestion to those
who have to arrange cut blooms in that way.
The basket shows tasteful arrangement in some
respects, but it is somewhat too flat, rather over¬
crowded, and perhaps displays too much variety
as regards kinds of flowers. Had more Tea
Roses been employed and more elegant foliage,
the effect v»ould have been better. This re¬
minds us of a charming flower basket which we
saw the other day, and which contained nothing
but the yellow Mardchal Niel and the blush-
pink President Roses associated with their own
foliage, and to relieve the flatness a few sprays
of the new feathery Asparagus (A. plumosus),
more elegant even than any Fern, and lasts so
much longer in perfection. As in most other
floral arrangements, nothing is better than
simple and light arrangement, using a few kinds
of flowers only. If a mixture of many kinds is
employed, the result is Reldom artLticor pleasing
At this season the open-air garden contains, or
should contain, ample material, and that of the

which all nursery and seedsmen keep and sell
for the purpose. The Tobacco powder is so
patent and quick in its action, that it fairly
staggers the insects, and shortly after its appli¬
cation they may be washed off and dashed to
the ground. To carry this out there is nothing
equal to a garden engine, as by its aid water
can be ejected and sent on to the foliage with
some force, but at the present tender stage of
the leaves care is needed, or the dash of the
water will bruise and tear them to pieces. To
prevent this, the jet or stream should be broken
up by placing the finger against the delivery
tube, or keeping the eagine at a distance of
10 feet or 12 feet from its work, as then the
water cannot hit hard. If a garden engine can¬
not be had, a syringe will answer the same pur¬
pose fairly well, bat to keep trees at all clean it
is absolutely necessary to use one or the other.
The time they should be brought into requisi¬
tion is either early in the morning or towards
night, the latter being best, especially when the
season becomes more advanced and the days
warmer, as then the water has a very refreshing
and strengthening effect on the trees,and wards
off red spider, a pest that otherwise is apt to be
very troublesome during the summer, bat which
clear water holds in subjection. Next to
Peaches and Nectarines
Cherries are the trees most liable to the
attacks of aphis, and the Cherry louse and black-
flv are most difficult to kill, as they have tough
skins, which are protected by an oily coating
that repels wet and throws most insecticides off.

Basket of Cut Flowers.

best description, with which to arrange flower
baskets and vates. The Daffodils have yielded
a long and plentiful supply, and the stragglers,
the doable and single Poet’s Narcissus, are still
in beauty. The managers of flower shows, par¬
ticularly in the country, where professional floral
decorators seldom make their appearance,
should encourage simple arrangements of this
kind instead of the mixtures which one often
Bees arranged apparently without regard to
either harmony of form or colour.

FRUIT.

SPRING AND SUMMER MANAGEMENT OF
FRUIT TREES.

The cold experienced during April, just as fruit
trees had budded, has been the means of retard¬
ing growth, and it always follows when this is
checked that the young shoots become infested
with insects, the worst among these being
aphides, which curl the leaves, and unless held
in check or destroyed, soon do irretrievable
damage by ruining the health of the plant. The
trees they most affect are
Peaches and Nectarines, which become a
ready prey to their attacks and suffer more
qnickly than most others, and it is to these there¬
fore that attention should be first directed. In
order to wage war successfully, the trees must be
divested of all superfluous shoots by a general
disbudding, which clears the field, as it were, to
wage war with the enemy, and he can then be
assailed in a variety of ways. The most simple,
and perhaps the most effectual, as well as the
safest, is by means of Tobacco dust, which may
be puffed on the points of the shoots and among
the curled leaves by means of a distributor

The best remedy against these hardy aphides is
nicotine soap, which is a most valuable prepara¬
tion, and used in the proportion of about four
ounces to a gallon of water destroys the black-
fly at once. The most economical way of apply¬
ing it is to have a bowl or other similar handy
vessel and dip the shoots in, which may be
quickly and easily done by gently bending them
down. Previous to taking this in hand, all fore-
right shoots should be stopped back to three
leaves, and only those left that are required for
laying in to exrend the branches and for filling
up bare spaces on the walls. By doing the
stopping early it often saves trees becoming
attacked with insects ; and not only that, but it
makes the spurs fruitful, by causing the forma¬
tion of flower-buds at the base of the shoots,
where the strength is then concentrated, instead
of expending itself and going to waste. Morello
Cherries require different treatment from the
desserL kinds, as Morellos bear on the young wood,
and in the management of these as much should
be left and nailed or tied in as there is room for
without crowding, the shoots that should be
chosen being those best situated on the branches
and close to the wall.

Plums of all kinds fruit most freely on spurs,
and here again the stopping of the shoots plays
an important part for reasons already stated,
and the same with Apricots which, like Plums,
cannot well be too closely nipped iD, as the
nearer the spurs are to the wall the better pro¬
tection they get. In cases where spurs are long
and dense they may be considerably improved
by an entire removal of Borne of the end shoots,
which will let in light and air and strengthen
the others below. By a judicious and timely
pinching and thinning in this way, very little
autumn or winter pruning will be needed, a*

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN •

92

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

(May 3,1884.

the finger and thumb may be so used a3 to re¬
gulate the growth of the tree to a nicety. The
spur system is also the best for Pears and Apples
that are grown on walls or as pyramids, espa¬
liers, or bushes, but the stopping of these, like
the others, must be done early, and to have re¬
gular crops annually it is necessary for the fruit
to be thinned, for if a tree is too heavily loaded
this year it will ease itself by not bearing next.
Mulching over the roots of trees that have much
fruit on them is a great help to them, and an
additional assistance may be afforded by a
soaking or two of liquid manure. 8.

Black Prince Strawberry. — T am
pleased to see this so well spoken of. In my
opinion it is decidedly one of the best, and were
I compelled at any time to confine myself to one
variety of Strawberry, Black Prince would be
the one. For forcing under glass or for growing
in the open air there arc no other kinds so early
or so prolific, and few, if any, are better
flavoured. Here it is ripe at least twelve days
before any other sort, and by growing some of
the plants on an early border and others in a
late position it is surprising the succession of
fruit which may be had from it. When well
cultivated many of the berries become as large
as those of Keen’s Seedling, and it is the
deepest coloured of all Strawberries. In bright,
sunny weather the fruits are almost black and
the flavour peculiarly rich. For preserving it is
especially well adapted, and I am surprised that
those who grow Strawberries for market do not
have a large quarter of it. In some years I have
seen it reported that Strawberries were 10s. per
pound in Covent Garden. These must evidently
have been forced fruit, but at the same time we
had abundance of Black Prince ripe in the open
air, and this could have been sold at the time
with a good profit at half that price.—J.

Fruit trees not bloomingf. — Last
September I planted fourteen dwarf pyramidal
fruit bushes in my garden; ten of them have
bloomed, but the remainder, a Beurr6 Diel Pear,
a Marie Louise Pear, a Victoria Plum, and a Jef¬
ferson Plum, have shown no sign of bloom. Is
there anything I can do to induce them to
bloom, or is it yet too early for these kinds to
bloom ? The ground, which is rather heavy,
was well dug and manured previous to planting,
and I have mulched with manure during the
winter, and given liquid manure the last week
or two. The Jefferson is covered with young
shoots ; should these be removed ? Any informa¬
tion will oblige.— W. Haydon.

Charcoal in Vine borders.— So far as

my experience goes, charcoal does neither good
nor harm in Vine borders, and if I could get it
free of cost I would never use it in them, except
I had a stiff, cold loam to deal with. In that
case it might be of some service, but I should
prefer to use a liberal supply of old lime rubble
in its place There are hundreds of gardens in
which good Grapes are grown without the aid of
charcoal—sufficient evidence that it is unneces¬
sary except in exceptional cases.—C. C.

New rods on old Grape Vines.—
Under the above heading information is asked
on the following points, and this I shall endea¬
vour to give in the order in which the questions
are put, viz.: To what extent unfruitful laterals
should be stopped ?—These should be stopped
about an inch above the first joint, if not
entirely rubbed off. This latter should be done
with all weak and over-crowded laterals. How
is a new rod from an old Vine to be pruned and
stopped 7—1st, At the general pruning, shorten
all last year’s shoots to their sound and well-
ripened wood. This is preparatory to the more
particular pruning, which is to be regulated as
described below. 2nd, Girt the Vine stock im¬
mediately above ground, to ascertain the capa¬
bility of the plant to bear the number of
fruiting buds to be left, which is determined in
this way, viz , the girth of the stem in inches, mul¬
tiplied by twenty, and having fifty deducted
from the product, gives the number of buds to
be left; for instance, say—girth, 5 inches x 20
= 100 - 50 = 50 buds. 3rd, Select the smallest
number of shoots possible—these have already
been reduced to their sound wood—supplying in
aggregate the requisite number of buds. 4th,
Spur in, to one or two eyes each, a like number
of shoots (they will principally be those which
have produced the^ast crop ofrfruit), with one

Digitized by lOQOlC

or two added to furnish successional wood. 5th,
Cut away all other old wood and superfluous
branches. When is the shoot retained to be
allowed to bear fruit? The season after the
shoot is produced. The fruit of the Grape Vine,
in ordinary circumstances, grows on laterals pro¬
ceeding from shoots of the preceding year,
seldom on those from old wood.—J. M.

INDOOR PLANTS:

GROWING FERNS IN COOL GREENHOUSES.
The articles which have recently appeared in
the columns of Gardening on the subject of
cool greenhouses and ferneries will, I feel quite
sure, have been read with great interest by very
many who, like myself, devote some of their
leisure hours to the cultivation of Ferns and
other plants, and I venture to contribute my
mite on the subject, in the hope of giving some
little information or encouragement to those
who may be inclined to take up the matter
practically. Several years ago, having a piece
of ground on which from its draughty position
between the north-west end of my house and the
boundary wall, I could get nothing to grow, I
determined to cover it in with glass and convert
it into a greenhouse. It was some 30 feet long,
but only about 8 feet wide, and from the nature
of the position did not get a very good light,
and could not, except at very great inconvenience,
be heated, so that nothing of a tender character
could be grown. Geraniump, Fuchsias, Ac.,
after a time got "leggy” and drawn, and as this
was unsatisfactory the stages were gradually
pulled out and the place converted into a
fernery, in which condition it remains.

Soil, Ac.—About stone no difficulty arose,
as plenty could be had of a suitable
description, but the peat question was
less easily disposed of, as I had very little
at hand, and, for the whole, it would have re¬
quired a considerable quantity if used in the pro¬
portions advocated by many Fern growers. The
difficulty was solved by using good fibry loam,
mixed with cocoa-fibre and charcoal, with a
liberal allowance of sand, and with this com¬
post I formed a bank some 28 feet long, and
varying in height from 3£ feet to 5 feet. The
stones were placed to imitate nature as far as
circumstances permitted, and the whole planted
with Ferns, which have, as a rule, grown with
such vigour that no one need, in my opinion,
hesitate about growing Ferns in a compost made
up very largely of loam, provided it is of a fibry
character, and good drainage be ensured, which
is very important, and can readily be secured by
having a good stratum of broken bricks, Ac., at
the bottom.

Varieties to grow. —The selection of Ferns
for this place was a somewhat knotty point, as
it was necessary to have only those which would
flourish without artificial heat, and at the same
time select as many as possible which would re¬
tain their fronds during the winter. The last,
indeed, was the most important, as the fernery
communicated with the sitting-room by a
glass door, and was thus at all times
accessible without the trouble of going
outside. A considerable number being, however,
selected, besides those about the place, were duly
planted. There were, of course, sundry failures
amongst them, but, as in many other cases, these
failures brought with them a certain amount of
benefit in the way of information, and their
places were filled up by others, with the result
that now, winter and summer, I have a bank of
verdure to feast my eyes on, and afford an
amount of recreation such as an ardent Fern
lover only can experience. I would, therefore,
say to those who have a vacant bit of ground
about which they feel uncertain what to do, pro¬
vided it gets a fair amount of light, make it into
a fernery, and with a moderate amount of care
and attention, and comparatively little expense,
a harvest of pleasure may be reaped, besides
contributing to the enjoyment, of friends.
Amongst the Ferns which I have found to suc¬
ceed well are the following:—Adiantum peda-
tum, A.pubescens, A. capillus veneris; Asplenium
eb^neum, A. flaccidum, A. bulbiferum, A. mari-
num ; Cyrtomiums falcatum and caryotideum;
Polystiehum proliferum, and other varieties;
Bteiis tremula, P. esculenta, P. chinensis, and
its variegated form, albo lineata; P. scaberula,
Struthiopteris germanica, Woodwardia radicans
and orientalis, Osmunda gracilis, Onoclea sensi-

bilis, Onychium japonicum, La9trea felix o*,
atrata, and others, as well as several varietia
of Cy8topteris, Athyrium, and Scolopendric
(crested and otherwise), and other British Feu*
Some, of course, grow more vigorously the
others, and thereby add to the charm of such i
spot. The Oak and the Beech Fern planted fa- 1
suitable nooks succeed admirably, and I find the
Oak Fern grown in a basket and suspended in
a nicely shaded part, makes one of the loveliest ■
bosses of delicate green that can be desire!
Woodwardia radicans, too, answers admirablj 1
for this purpose, and its bold fronds, 2 fed rr J
3 feet Jong, give at once variety and effect
Asplenium flaccidum is another Fern that do» 1
well for this purpose, and Adiantum capifi®
veneris is another that can be recommended
with confidence. To make up a dwarf unde- !
growth a few plants of Ficns repens, Saxifn^i
sarmentosa, and the smaller-leaved variegated
Ivies are grown along with the Sellagitelh
Kraussiana, and a plant or two of Begonia rex,
with a Fan Palm in the lightest situations help
to give effect. Over-head, to obtain shade juj 4
as is necessary, I grow Passiflora crerulea, vhid:
succeeds well and flowers abundantly. At cm i
end—the lightest—I planted Aralia Sieboldiacd
Dractena indivisa, both of which are 7 feet*

8 feet high, and growing with such vigour ttat
other quarters will be necessary before long,
unless “ topping ’’ be resorted to. A few phe*
in pots help to give variety, but these, of count,
could be dispensed with, to suit circumstance*
taste. A fernery can hardly be considered complete
without one or other of the filmy Ferns, and far ;
this purpose commend one to the Killmif ;
variety. In a Wardian case, properly skadei
this grows splendidly, and I would strongly r*- -
commend it to every amateur who can find i ,
suitable place for it in preference to tbeToden
which require more attention and make It* ,
growth. Given a cool, moist place, well drained .
so that there be no stagnant water, with stu¬
dent shade, it will pretty well take care d ,
itself.

One of the greatest advantages which attach
to growing Ferns in a house like this is that*
little, comparatively speaking, is required ait*
the planting has been once properly dooa
Beyond keeping the Ferns duly moist
daily in the growing season), occasionally top-
dressing with light fibry soil, and trimming cp
from time to time, very little indeed is required,
and the pleasure to be derived is a tbousci-
fold that of the labour bestowed. W. B

Whitehaven.

ORCHID CULTURE.

11301.—It is quite impossible to point out ii
a short note the proper treatment for all kindi
of Orchids, as there are now so many bundrd
species in cultivation, all of them differing mo»
or less in their requirements. When I mentia
that some are found naturally growing at s
elevation of 5000 feet, and others revel in th*
hot jungles of India, or in the warm, moisture
laden atmosphere of the Phillipines, you ml
perceive how difficult it would be in one sirgk i
article to indicate the cultural requirement? of ,
Orchids generally, and that it is impossible te
grow them indiscriminately in the same struc¬
ture. For these reasons Orchid growing bas no*
become a science, and men devote their whole
time to this class of plants. Whoever intend*
taking up the growth of these interesting plant*
in a small way, will have to confine tbemfeh*
to one class of them, and then the owner of*
small glasshouse may hope in the course of tint*
to grow them to much perfection. Wbatwt !
commonly called cool Orchids are the most suit*
able for small growers as they are comparand
inexpensive to grow, not requiring more Ustt
from 46° to 55° in winter and no artificial he*
through late spring, summer, and early autun®.
When once the first principles of their culture
is understood, they are as easy to grow as c*nj
things more generally seen in glasshouses, bull
would warn all who may be thinking of under
taking their culture that they will not suoceti
amongst the miscellaneous contents of an erdi
nary greenhouse. They require very differen
atmospheric conditions to cool-house flowenr.
plants, delighting in a moisture-laden air, an
requiring shade from hot sun. The only plan'
that can be grown with them successfully iu
such as Ferns, Dracaenas, Palms, Ficuees.

| yhich-cio_pot.like tjp t^e^foll sun, as

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

MiT 3, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

03

fear currents of dry air. Supposing the plants
ire to be grown in an ordinary greenhouse, such
if exists in small gardens generally, a canvas
ilind fixed on a roller to be let up and down at
sill, is a primary necessity, for, although th-r
;Ism may be whitened over for the summer, the
growth is never so solid as when a maximum o
igbt can be admitted without engendering
indue assiduity. The ordinary stage arrange-
□ent will suffice for the front of the house, as
be plants can be Btood on flower pots, so as to
>ring them nearer the glass, but if the house in
lot more than 10 feet wide (and small green-
louses seldom exceed this width) it would be
tetter to leave the back portion free from
cages, as then it would prove useful for
•asketa, and many kinds of Orchids do better
Town in them than in pots. In commencing
irchid culture it is best to buy established
•lasts, as, although imported pieces can be
urchased at a cheap rate, it requires some skill
o get them to start away into growth, and even
ben in a general way they are some years
Dining into flowering condition. The following
inda would form a good commencement, and
they did well, others might be added from
me to time : Lj caste Skinneri, Odontoglosaum
ri'pum (in a collection of fifty cool Orchids,
lere should be dozen of this), Cypripedium
i.'igne, Oattleya citric a, Odontoglossum grande,
celogyne cristata, Sophronitis grandiflora,
•v ia majalis and autumnalis, Masdevallia
eitchi, Harry ana, and ignea. These are of the
•earn of Orchids which demand no more than
i° by day and from 46° to 50° at night in
inter, and they will thrive very well together,
id in company with Ferns and many warm-
DQ^e tioe-lsaved plants. With respect to com-
Orchids require fibrous peat with all the
ist shaken oat, Sphagnum Moss, and charcoal
i small pieces. They require drainage of an
cceptional character, the pots being filled two-
lirds full of crocks, and in nearly all cases
le plants must be elevated above the level of
ie pot, so that the compost slopes from the
>llar of the plant down to the rim, forming a
ound, on the apex of which the plant rests,
at I would counsel beginners to obtain some
»od treatise on the culture of cool Orchids,
bich would be a constant guide and reference,
id with that and the hints constantly appear-
g in Gardening good success may be ob-
lined, but proficiency will only be acquired by
Jit of practice and perseverance. J. C.

Effect.

,11324 —Treatment of Orange trees.—

s yoar plant is now in a healthy condition you
.nnot do better than follow the treatment
therto given. If the pot is quite full of roots
■e plant may be shifted in May, otherwise it
tould only be top-dressed with concentrated
anure. The great point is to encourage a free
rong growth by syringing in hot weather and
ring plenty of air at all times. When the plant
large enough it will bear fruit, but there is no
ied to fertilise the blooms, they set freely
ioagh in a light airy situation.—J. C. B.

11410— Sowing Pern spores. — You
rould first bake the soil in an oven hot enough
> kill all seeds contained in it. The compost
wold be sandy peat and loam in about equal
arts. Sow the ripe spores over the surface of
ye soil in the pots or pans, and theR place a
juare of glass over it. Give sufficient water to
eep the soil in a moderately moist state until
ie yoang seedlings appear.—J. D. £.

11030 —Tree Feme.— If they are imported
com they should be placed in a close warm
-•use, shading from sun, and syringing them
rioe a day. They may be put into pots, in-
:rting some 6 inches of the bntt end of the
terns in fibrous sandy peat, and using good
raioage. They will make but little growth the
r§t year,but the following one they should start
way strongly.—J. C. B.

11391. — Palm dying. —Palms cannot be
expected to remain in first-rate condition in an
>rlinary dwelling-room. The conditions of ligjht
uid air are not sufficiently favourable. Some
of the more hardy species will remain in good
health a long time if they are well potted in the
place, the leaves kept clean by occasional
* things with a sponge, and the roots well
watered. Good loam, with a little peat and sand
or leaf-mould insteadis the best

Digitized by CjOOQ 1C

potting soil. Potting in horre dung, ashes, and
sand would be sufficient to kill a healthy plant.
As the plant has got into such bad condition, it
would be much better to get a new one and
throw the invalid away. It might be brought
round if repotted in the compost advised above,
if at the same time it could be grown in a hot¬
house.—J. D. £.

A 8H0WY GREENHOUSE PLANT.

The subjoined illustration represents a very
showy plant belonging to the Crucifer family,
which has within the last few years been brought
under notice in gardens, though it was dis¬
covered by Professor Bunge in Northern China
nearly fifty years ago. It is generally con¬
sidered to be an annnal, though under certain
conditions it is biennial, or even perennial. It is
said to be hardy, but it succeeds but indifferently
in the open air in this country—at leatt so far i
as my experience of it goes. It makeB, however, I
a remarkably showy greenhouse plant, as its I

flowers (which are represented in the woodout
half their natural size) are of a bright violet-
blue colour; and under good culture the plants
attain a height of 2 feet, the loose terminal
racemes of flowers being about half that height.
Treated as an ordinary greenhouse annual, it will
be a valuable acquisition, as it flowers early in
spring. It is known under the name of Mori-
oandia soncliifolia. For the opportunity of
figuring this plant we are indebted to Messrs.
Haage & Schmidt, of Erfurt, who are distri¬
buting seeds of it. G.

Killing mice.— The following are two good
recipes for killing mioe and rats. I have used
both and find them to be good : First recipe—
125 grammes of crumbs of bread, 60 grammes of
butter, 30 grammes of nitrate of mercury crystal-
ized, all well mixed together in an impalpable
paste; laysomeof the mixtureof pieces of glass in
the house where mice are. Second recipe — 250
grammes quicklime (not slaked) in powder, 60
grammes sugar in powder, 150 gramme? flour of
any kind (oat, wheat, or rye); mix together;
put some of the mixture on a little plate, and
place near it a second plate with water. Mice
after eating some of the mixture feel thirsty and
drink the water. . The lime, being quick, gets

slaked in their stomachs and kills them in a few
minutes.—A. B., Loarg-la-Htine.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

Anemone fulgenc, A. Robinsoniana,

Ac.—The able and exhaustive notes on Ane¬
mones, by " K. L. D." (see page 68) leave but
little room for addition or criticism. Still, I s*k
to be allowed to notice one or two matters, and
espeoially to suggest an experiment in the culti¬
vation of A. fulgens. My experience of this
Anemone ia that it deteriorates after the first
season of flowering fron^ importation, and I find
that most of my friends, especially those who
live in the more rainy and sunless parts of the
kingdom, make the same complaint. It comes
to me nearly every summer from a vineyard at
the northern base of the Pyrenees. This vine¬
yard is every February a blaze of scarlet with
its flowers; the leaves have completed their
growth and begin to die off in May, and be¬
tween that time and the end of sum¬
mer the soil between the Vines is
ploughed up three times, thus expos¬
ing all the roots in turn to the baking
of a Mediterranean sun. The roots
which are left on the surface at the
last ploughing, flower as freely as
those which are buried deepest —
about a foot-by it. Now, if instead
of burying the roots, while dormant,
in sand, and keeping them, os is often
done, in come outhouse, ihey were
spread on the surface under a band-
light, or on a south shelf in a green¬
house, and exposed to every ray of son
that our poor climate affords until
being planted again in October, int tead
of storing them in a shed, I am sure
that better results would be obtained.
This baking in the summer sun, whilst
kept dry, is not only beneficial, bnt
necessary to the welfaie of many
Algerian and other Mediterranean
bulbs. Anemone Robinsoniana ought
not, I think, to be considered quite
synonymous with A nemorosa ccerulea.
The latter U a pale blue, or lavender-
coloured variety of the common wood
Anemone, occurring accidentally in
several parts of several counties of
England and Wales. I know it to be
found in two or three distinct Bpots
in this county, Carnarvonshire; but
though identical in colour with A.
Robinsoniana it is not half its size.
The latter name properly belongs to
the blue variety of A. nemorosa major,
which is a distinct form double the
size of the typical A. nemorosa. I
know that A. nemorosa caerulea is very
often sold under the name of Robinso¬
niana, and as both are in most soils
delio&te and hard to establish, it is
not always easy to distinguish them.
The finest plants of Robinsoniana 1
have ever seen 1 lately received from
Mr. Whittaker, of Breadsall, near Derby. Per¬
haps 1 may be allowed to put in a word in favour
of an Anemone omitted from the list given by
“K. L. D,” A. rivularis, having a neat and
elegant pure white flower with deep blue
anthers, producing a very pretty effect. It is
easily raised from seed. As regards A. alpica
and A. sulphurea, I, like “ K. L. D.,” have found
them both difficult to establish, having planted
many plants of both in many situations and
varieties of soil. Both have succeeded best In
the same spot, the strong edge of a very dry
raised bed of peaty soil underneath a large Yew
tree. Strange as the place may seem, both kinds
grow and flower well there side by side in the
same soil, though Kernez and other German
botanists assure us that the one cannot live
without lime, while the other dies in limy soil.—
C. WOLLET Dod, Llandudno.

11406.—PolyanthUiOB — By planting in
rich deep soil the stems would be taller and the
flowers larger. It may be slugs eatirg the
flowers; look for them with a good lamp at
night. Caterpillars will also eat the flowers.
Old plants do degenerate. Seeds should be
sown now, and the plants will flower very
strongly next season Afterthat they get
weaker yearly.-J. 5TlS irWTrcm

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

A showy greenhouse plant (Morioandia sonchifolia).

94

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[May3 1884.

OrmthOijalum nutans. — One of the
very best spring flowers for cutting, though
one rarely sees it so used. It will grow any¬
where, sometimes only two freely, increasing
rapidly both by bulb and seed. It spreads too
frefily to be quite a safe plant in a choice
flower border, but in some less important place
one or two square yards of it will yield a valu¬
able supply of bloom. The flowers, like some
others, greatly improve indoors, for whereas
when growing the top of the spike is in bud
and the lower part in seed, with a few flowers
between, when in water the whole spike be¬
comes flower, and the individual flowers, instead
of being half open, rather too green, and in¬
clined to droop, as they generally appear when
growing, become wide open, clear white stars,
with a beautifal satin-like lustre. The foliage
of this Star of Bethlehem is of no use for
cutting. The flowers are beautiful with deli¬
cate sprays of Portugal Laurel—not from the
strong-wooded terminal boughs, but the broader-
leaved twigs of less stiff growth from shady
or sheltered parts of the bush.—J.

Bedding Violas. —Whilst there does not
seem to be so great a demand for these truly
charming hardy flowers as once existed, it is
satisfactory to find that raisers have not relaxed
their efforts to produce improved varieties. Not
a few of the kinds shown in the past, though
charming for the moment, have failed to show
endurance and hardiness such as are needed in
a bedding Viola. I find Yellow Boy, one of the
oldest, to be still the earliest and best of yellows.
In old clumps it is beautiful, and in young
plants the first to flower. Mrs. Gray is a pure
white kind, one of the very earliest, and specially
valuable with Yellow Boy for spring bedding.
I am greatly pleased with Mrs. Turner, a bluish
violet hued kind of the best form and stout.
Blue Lass is an excellent blue, whilst the old
Cliveden Purple and Mulberry make the best
bedders in the maroon section. In the south,
Violas to make a good show in the spring should
always be planted out in October.— A.

Anemones and Lilies.— I was shown
to-day a remarkable display of Anemone nemo-
rosa alba in a garden here. It formed the
edging 10 inches wide for a bed of Ghent
Azaleas several yards across, between which
various Liliums had been permanently planted.
The flower is single, pendent, white, and slightly
streaked with blush-purple on the back, and at
least three times the size of the common white
wood Anemone. It was most effective and dit-
cernable a long way off Evidently peat soil
suits these hardy Anemones, and in passing I
may remark that if many of your readers
planted their Lilies permanently as here in such
a soil they might expect to find the stems now
as thick as spade handles above the ground.
Imported auratum bulbs are still beneath the
surface with me. The Anemones, Azaleas, and
Lilies make these beds effective for nine months
out of the year consecutively.—W. M., Chnmel m

Erica oarnea — During the latter part of
the winter and in early spring this Heath is at
its best, being then thickly studded with pale
red blossoms. The fact of its flowering at this
time brings it into prominence, as there is then
so little in the open ground ; besides, it is a very
accommodating plant, and generally succeeds
well in ordinary garden soil, unless too much
shaded by trees, and even in that matter it is
not very particular, as when partially shaded it
often thrives satisfactorily.—A.

Golden Moneywort —The old grean-
leaved Moneywort is well known, but the variety
having yellow foliage is not, I think, much
grown. Unlike many variegated plants, it is of
vigorous growth and forms a fine companion to
the type, which for a window ledge in a north
aspect is unrivalled, forming a dense curtain of
verdure, which in its season is Btudded with
bright yellow flowers.— Byfleet.

Hardy foliage for hardy flowers —
While believing thoroughly in the principle that
a plant’s own foliage is the best for associating
along with its own blossoms, yet it is sometimes
expedient to use leaves of beautiful form or
greater variety. I find too often amongst my
friends a tendency to U9e Fern fronds and other
hothouse foliage when arranging their vases of
ontdoor flowers for indoor ornament. Their
light to do this is not disputed, but for the fake
of those who no greenhouses even it is

Digitized by VjQOglC

pleasant to know that there are many bardj
plants which produce beautiful leaves in plenty
in the open air of a sheltered garden. One of
the best of these is Heuchera Richardsoni, which
produces silky leaves of a rich, reddish, bronzy
colour on slender stalks 5 inches or 6 inches in
length. The common Tansy plant and some of
the Achilleas again yield finely-cut leaves not
in any way inferior in feathery beauty to those
of exotic Ferns. The purple shoots and bronzy
leaves of Taeonies or the broad Saxifrages, the
pinnate foliage of oriental Poppies, or the great
silvery grey leaves of the Artichoke or of Car-
doons are quite Acanthus-like in their nobility
of form, and so well fitted for large urns or
vases indoors. There are many, many other
things, “good things,” indeed no poverty at all,
in the hardy leaf glory of our outdoor gardens,
while some of us think that hardy foliage is best
fitted for association with hardy flowers.—W.

DAFFODILS.

The late Daffodil conference at South Ken¬
sington is doubtless the outcome, more or le?s
direct, of the revival of the true gardening in¬
stinct which has been silently making its way
for the last ten or fifteen years in our midst,
but which is silent no longer. The love of
hardy flowers, strengthening every year, is be¬
coming an enthusiasm which Nature and art
agree in commending. What more likely, then,
that one of the fairest of them all, the Daffo¬
dil, which three hundred years ago delighted
our forefathers, should tempt tho horticulturist
of to-day at least to recover favourites long
lost, and that in making the attempt a host of
new garden forms and hybrids should have
sprung up to reward his pains. Hence, indeed,
the conference. It was not the early history
nor even the poetry of the Daffodil which drew
together so large a company of interested
persons as met the other day at South Ken¬
sington. The majority came to see and admire,
but the learned came together to discuss ques¬
tions (of oonsequence to the botanist and gar¬
dener alike) of species and nomenclature and
culture. It is a well known saying of a late
eminent horticulturist, Dean Herbert, referred
to by one of the speakers, that the botanist can¬
not get en without the help of the gardener,
and the gardener is landed in a maze of con¬
fusion without the help of the botanist. It is
possible to go a step further, and to add that
the life-giving interest and enjoyment of each
go equally hand in hand. The gardener espe¬
cially, who thinks lightly of the work of the
botanist, as gardeners are sometimes apt to do,
makes a mistake and closes the door upon a
source of intelligent acquaintance with the
nature of his own wares. The botanist, as a
rule, is wiser, but sometimes depreciates the
practical work of the gardener. The question
raised by Mr. Elwes, “ What is a species?” is
one which ought to be quite as interesting to
the gardener as to the botanist, if we grant that
no man so thoroughly enjoys his plants as he
who knows something of their native habitats,
their distinctions, their good or bad qualities,
their structure and habits ; yet all these belong
to the province of botany. A species, then, at
the Daffodil conference was defined to be a
well-marked type of, any plant found growing
wild in sufficient numbers in its native country
and with distinct peculiarities to separate it
from other plants of the same genus or group.

One main object of the meeting was to
settle the question of the species of Daffodils
(or Narcissi, to give the genus its name of
widest application); in other words, to decide
how many distinct and unchangeable forms can
be reckoned as well marked wild plants. In a
printed li>t hung up for the instruction of
visitors, twenty-three distinct species were
named, but several of these during the course
of the discussion were withdrawn, as probably
mere variations, a small proportion out of some
200 garden forms and hybrids named in Mr.
Barrs catalogue. Out of this admission there
naturally arose a second question—“ What is a
variety ? ” and this standpoint was made so plain
by Mr. J. G. Baker in his able and interesting
speech, that it will be instructive to give here
his short analysis. To make the following terms
clear, it is needful to enlarge further upon
some of the divisions, and to explain that the
genus Narcissus is one section of the natural

order or family of Amaryllids, which is agaia
sub-divided thus : —

Natural Order ...
Genus ...

Sub-genera

Species.

Sub-species
Varieties ...

Amaryllis.

Narcissus.

As Ajax or
Trumpet Daffodils.

f Garden forms.

1 Hybrids.

By sub-genera are meant the three distinct
groups into which the genus naturally brain
up. These are marked chiefly by the length cf
the crown or tube, which is a distinguish^
feature of all Narcissi, and are ranged unde
the three heads of—1, long-tubed or Trumpet
Daffodils; 2, intermediate or chalice Daffodil;
and 3, short-crowned or true Narcissi, repre
sented by the Pheasant’s-eye or Poet’s Sara*
8us. These sub-genera contain under each had
certain well defined species, eg., under ih
Trumpet section we find the large single yelk?
Daffodil (N. major), our own wild Lent Lily (K.
Psendo-Narcissus), and the Hoop Petticoat (Oce
bularia), all clearly marked types differing a
form and shade of colour, yet essentially agre-
ing in all important points. And so on *iti
each group in turn. If the matter rested hei
the gardener and the botanist might thin
hands, and be at peace with each other, tat
the Daffodil, even in a natural state, is so fertile
in seedling forms differing from each other, tbt
it becomes a serious task to distinguish betwee
sub-species, varieties, garden forms, and hybrids.
To the solution of this difficulty, and to them
less onerous task of deciding upon a simpa
nomenclature for the different forms, theieitci
committee have set themselves with right good
courage, and it is for all gardeners to wishtha
success.

Happily, the task of growing these fine harrij
plants is not difficult. The exceptions wer*
stated by Mr. F. W. Burbidge to be five or §iz
in all, and these are mostly small and deliaa
South European or Algerian species, which t k
ordinary cultivator will not greatly regret, whi
the magnificent kinds of easy culture, which ik
almost as hardy and free growing as the Grss
itself, are left to him Our own wild Lent Lily,
though left behind altogether by the glory of
gome of the new Daffodils, is fair to tee. Odj
a few days since I stood on the lawn of»
ancient and picturesque manor house 200 ya-**
old or more, girdled round with meadows foiled
them—a “ jocund company ”—waving above tk
crisp turf, fragrant with purple Violet*. Hof
they came there no one at this date can tell, f*
they are not abundant in the neighbouring fu¬
tures, and are, in all probability, a relic of dayl
long past. We cannot spare or detract from o»
jot of the beauty of these wild lings which traoj-
form our English coppices and meadow-Uah
into gardens. But Daffodil growers themsefra
could hardly form an idea of the exceeding low¬
liness of the different cultivated forms of thrif
favourite flower until they were brought togethfi
in masses on the exhibition table and »
they were to be seen on the 1st of April a’ Sodk
Kensington. Are these all Daffodils ! was flj
qaestion which again and again was heard; as
it may be hinted that possibly the rhythmical
translation—dear to English ears—of Narrisea
into the Daffodil conference may tend to doed
the public mind, for though all Daffodils are un¬
doubtedly Narcissi, we may hesitate to say that
all Narcissi are Daffodils.

From January— beginning with thece*
Trumpet Daffodil, Mr. Barr’s latest introduction,
to which we must wait to give a name until the
labours of the committee of nomenclature iff
finished—to June, when the season end* wn
one of the loveliest of all the double forcJ*
N. poeticus, there is an unbroken succession »
species and varieties, new and old, single aw
double, tall and dwarf, with which we
make our gardens beautiful at little expend 1
is true that as yet some few are costly, lik®®
primrose self-tinted volutus, which in colour aa
form is as near perfection, one would 1 hink, as «»>
be, and which is priced at 10s. 6d. a bulb, be
many magnificentsorts, such as bicolor, Empw*
and Horsefleldi, the white cernuus pulcher, tl
deep yellow major luteu9 and maximus, an-
daintiest of any, perhaps. Queen Anne's pnr
rose-coloured double Daff odil, are to be bought
prices varying from 2s. to 63. each, while otb'
most desirable kinds are quoted at much let
Many and many a gardener has to content bn

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Mat 3, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

95

f with buying a single bulb of a good species
variety, and to wait with patience until, by
od culture, ho is able to attain a sufficient
»ck ; and with most of the Narcissi this may
done without fear if necessary, because,
der ordinary care, the single bulb in the course
a year or two may safely be reckoned upon to
iltiply itself to many. A good root is therefore
good investment. An important hint was
ran by an experienced grower as to cultivation
th regard to the best time for
Transplanting Daffodils. For this June,
ily, or August should be chosen, during which

has a trick of going blind, i r , the dower buds
wither in a disappointing way when they have
nearly reached the opening point. This is pro¬
bably induced by over-crowding, but even more
by want of sufficient moisture at the roots, so
that a mulching in the case of these is especially
required. To see Daffodils in perfection they
should grow upon grassy verges by woodland
walks, or in colonies by the banks of ornamental
water, or in some sheltered, half-wild position
where the growth of the leaves is never inter¬
fered with. It is a lesson not yet learnt by
heart by some that all bulbs suffer and do

ference, that to bloom them in perfection in
water, they should bo out in the bud state, while
the points of the dowers are still held together
at the tips It was said, most probably with
truth, that the whole of Mr. Walker's splendid
collection was so cut and opened indoors, thus
avoiding all chances of disfigurement by wind
or weather. One lesson as practical as any in¬
troduced into the subjeot of the day was taught
by the table whereon stood various beautifal
arrangements of cut blooms of Daffodil, the
work of a lady well known for her exquisite taste
and knowledge of art, as well as of the highest

A group of Daffodils.

Booths according to the time of dowering of late
w early kinds, growth will have ceased and the
nov* will not aeriously affect the well-being of
u* bulbs. At all other seasons It is next to
impossible to transplant or divide them without
casing injury to the growing fibres of the roots.
A veil-drained garden soil suits all the strong
growing kinds, bat a good mulching of leaf-
oodd or stable litter a month before the flowers
| ppe*r is of the utmost benefit, and it may be
noted that the white Daffodils are rather less
fobs* than the yellow-flowered sorts. There is
on* variety, the doable Poet’s ** ■*««■■

Digitized by

*s Narcissus, which

Go ugl

not flower well the following season if after
blooming their leaves aro cut off for
the sake of “ tidying up," and a year or two of
such treatment destroys them altogether. This
is a common error in the case of a churchyard
for one to fall into where the Grass has to be cut
at stated intervals. Nevertheless, let ns brighten
the church garden with Daffodils; no flowers are
more suitable, and trust to time and experience
to teach the lesson.

As cut flowers, the rarest Orchids are not
more beautiful or welcome, and we shall do well
to bear in mind the fact recalled during the con-

e

and best methods of natural gardening. The
bowls and vases of clear glass used were of dif¬
ferent sizes and shapes perfectly adapted to their
purposes. Amongst them, one tall glass was set
up with noble flowers of the yellow maxlmus,
relieved by bronzed foliage of Mahonia and the
polished green of Alexandrian Laurel. Another
bowl, perhaps the most beautiful of all, was
filled with white Trumpet Daffodils, single and
double, resting against dark evergreen foliage,
and a third contained the lovely double cream
coloured form of inoomparabilis. The true art
of arranging cut flowers may be attained by aJ*

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN.

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

I Mat 3, ISS4

who study simplicity, but do word-teaching on
the subject can convey the lesson taught by the
sight of these perfectly grouped glasses at South
Kensington. K. L. D.

THE COMING* WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

Plants fob the Conservatory.— When
well-managed tuberous-rooted Begonias stand
unrivalled, and embracing, as they do, many
shades of colour, they are well adapted for
forming a gorgeous group or placing beneath the
shade of fine foliaged plants. Spring seedlings
or autumn cuttings now starting, with Gloxinias
and Achimenes, if kept close to the glass in an
intermediate pit, make short floriferous growth
and last a long time in bloom. Pot on Balsams,
Cockscombs, Celosias, and Amarantus, keeping
them near the glass to prevent them from be¬
coming drawn, weedy, and worthless. Make
sowings of a few seeds of each of the above for
succession, guard against over-potting, and feed
them when well established. Feed Fuchsias and
Pelargoniums liberally with clear, weak liquid
manure when they have filled their flowering
pots. Keep the Pelargoniums tied out and
divested of bloom until they are wanted, and
put in cuttings of favourite kinds for winter
flowering. If Bouvardias are likely to be ^arce
young growths from cut-back plants will strike
freely and make nice bushy plants by the
autumn. Old plants, the best of which will be
those struck last year, may now be turned out,
reduced, and repotted in light, rich soil. Keep
them near the glass in low pits, syringe well,
but guard against over-watering. A good batch
of Begonias, Thyrsacanthus rutilans, and Scutel¬
laria mocciniana put in now will do good servioe
in due time. Prick off Cyclamens, early sown
Primulas, and Cinerarias in shallow pans of leaf-
mould and sand and make another sowing for
succession. Although the cultivation of the
Cineraria is exceedingly simple, many people
spoil their plants by sowing too late and by
forcing to make up for the time lost.

Ferns that have not been repotted for some
time, and where it is not deemed advisable to
give them more root-room, may be assisted by
the application of manure water; but in all
cases see that the drainage is effective, other¬
wise its application will only aggravate the evil.
If any plants are outgrowing their bounds, either
in pots or planted out, it is an easy matter to
reduce this over-luxuriance by cutting away,
more or less, according to circumstances, their
oldest fronds whilst in a green, liviDg state;
this will be found to reduce the size of the
young fronds made afterwards, in proportion to
the extent it has been carried out.

Chrysanthemums that have filled the small
pots they at present occupy should be at once
potted into their flowering pots; from 8-inch to
12-inch pots, according to the sizes the plants
are required, will be found large enough for
general use. If fine flowers are wanted, stop
the Bhoots during this month, but not later.
Plunge them at once in their summer quarters
in ashes, which will prevent worms from get¬
ting into the pots, and will keep their roots at a
much more equable temperature than when not
plunged. The first batch of Primulas and Cine¬
rarias will now require potting into 2£-inch
po*s, using good loam, well enriched with
rotte 1 manure and leaf-mould for the purpose,
mixe 1 with a little clean sand. Place the plants
in a somewhat close pit or frame; shade them
from bright sun, and attend to them well with
water.

Azaleas will now be coming into flower
without the assistance of fire-heat, and although,
with the increased temperature of the season,
they will not last in bloom so long as those that
have been forced, yet the much brighter colours
which they acquire under more natural condi¬
tions will compensate for their ehsrter duration.
The house they occupy whilst in bloom should
be well shaded, in order to prolong their flower¬
ing a3 far as possible. Remove all seed pods
from such as have done flowering, after which
allow them a fortnight or three weeks to recruit
their energies previous to repotting. Use in the
operation good fibrous peat broken into pieces
proportionate to the size of the plants; add
nothing, except as much silver sand as will not
only ensure porosity, but also maintain a sweet

Digitized by

06ity, but also man

Go gl<

healthy condition of the soil for years, for of injuring them with a Datch hoe provided
Azaleas with anything like fair treatment are dinary caution is observed,
not short livers. After potting, keep them in a Bedding plants.— All hardy plants
closer atmosphere than they have been in for a be got in forthwith, and the places marled
few weeks, and shade during bright, sunny and prepared for tender ones, in order that i
weather. Admit no side air during such time, may be no unnecessary delay as soon as it ii
but give sufficient at top to keep the tempera- to plant them ; meanwhile continue to prcw
ture from getting too high ; 80° to 86°, with air, Alternantheras,Coleuses, and Iresines,*kich
shade, and moisture, will do no harm. Plants no t be planted too thickly together if they
that are vigorous, and that push some of their to be effective from the first. Pelargori
shoots very strong, will be benefited by having Lobelias, Petunias, Heliotropes, and
the points of Buch shoots nipped out as soon as plants ought now to have full exposure,
they show a disposition to outgrow their neigh on frosty nights, when canvas or mat co
hours. If done whilst the growth is soft the w iR be requisite and sufficient. Seedling
plants will push several shoots which will set 8nc h as Ricinus, Wigandia, Solanum, Ax.,
blooms with the rest of the plant. gtjil have the protection of a cool bouse or

Abutilons. —Young plants of these potted and be afforded plenty of space to induce
now and encouraged to make growth will, four growth. As these cannot be planted with
months hence, have attained a useful size, till the first week in June, if they are likely
keeping them stopped, as occasion may require, get pot-bound, they should be at onoeshif
in order to lay the foundation for a bushy form, into larger pots in order that no check cay
which will, in the majority of cases, be found given to the plants, as that causes prensai
the most useful. The stopping thus recom- flowering or fruiting, which, as a matter
mended by moving the points of the shoots with course, hinders that development of fo
the newly-formed undeveloped flower-buds will which has made them so popular as easily
induce the plants to make growth instead of sub-tropical plants,
flowers till they are required. By way of variety, Delphiniums — Strong plants which
and to assist effective arrangement, a few of been in the ground all the winter will now

them may be grown as standards, dwarf, or of greatly aided in their growth if the soil

medium size, according as they may be found loosened about them and receive a mulching
most suitable for the description of structure 8 hort manure and leaves. A bed of the Si
wherein they will have to be used. These plants varieties should now be made ; and this will
exist in various shades of colour, from the found an effective manner of growing th«e
deepest dark crimson, through the paler hues of perennials, as it enables the several kinds to
red, down to yellow and white, and the plants compared the more readily. A deep loam, \
are as different in habit as they well can be from enriched with manure and leaf-mould, make*
the species first introduced. admirable bed, and as the plants come into ito

Petunias. — At no season of the year are they are materially assisted by a surface mnl
these so useful as late in the summer and ing of manure.

autumn; blooming, as they do, in the smallest Pyrethrums. —These fine, hardy decorati

state, and continuing to flower on up to the end plants are commencing to grow, and as scai
of the year with very little attention, they a nd slugs are apt to eat the foliage, they sbooM

deserve to be grown in quantity to come in be looked after. The enjoyment of all ‘

about the time mentioned ; they will be found plants is enhanced by having a bed filled
specially serviceable, for when done with all of various sorts, and now is a good time to miki
them can be discarded, excepting a store pot or one . Those who have limited garden space migW
two of each variety, which should be retained grow a few Pyrethrums in pots; they are easily
for purposes of propagation—a great advantage, managed, and are well suited to a cold gr«*
as iu winter most of the space allotted to green- bouse
bouse subjects is needed for plants or a more Clemati8es are now makinp a rapld pM
permanent character. Cuttings put in a few d attention to training is nectary W

t^LX fi Z, ^rvatories the shoots Sf the spring-flo-eHt,

together m fi-inch pots in light rich soil and Tarieti whether the plants t» in pots «
moved into others 2 inches or 3 inches arger trained waUa or piu „* eboold t* go lid i.
when necessary, keeping them sufficiently hide the b £ da that aIe already gipJ

fiowenfoff ,ilY^ina3hor»SMS &« 1

when they are required in bloom, and the shoots

Yf ^ «• to fill the space required to be covered: th.

ties w.U be most useful. Many of both the ^ the gr £ w ing Vhoots are displajed, Us

. C “ T finer wiU >*> th « 9h ° W 0t bl00m in **

as hot, dry weather set. in, mnlch with

tiDct colours &r6 now trisgci from 8 ©go 9 &nd i • *^ momn*

yield an abundant amount of variety. andpve occaa.onal watering. w.th »•»«

Flower Garden. Daisies.— Beds of Double Daisies are now ic

Hardy flowers.— Carnations wintered in full beauty, and their effectiveness is pro¬
pots should now be planted out and staked; also longed if the beds be occasionally examined m
Hollyhocks propagated this spring. The com- the dead flowers removed. This facilitates &
moner Yuccas wintered in frames may now be succession of bloom, besides tending to keeptae
consigned to the open borders, as may also beds smart in appearance.

Pentstemons, Phloxes, Antirrhinums, and Irises Fruit

From the base of clumps of Pampass Grass cut

away the most decayed leaves, and administer a Vines —Grapes now beginning to change
thorough soakiDg of water to the roots. Cam- colour should have the advantage of a free cu-
panula carpatica may be divided and replanted; dilation of air on all favourable occasions, with
this makes a grand edging for a shrubbery sufficient fire-heat to prevent the temperature
border, as does also the Nepeta violacea, the from falling too low. To secure the largest
herbaceous stalks of which should be removed berries it is usual to close the house for three
so as to give freedom to the young growth. Sow or four hours with solar heat on fine afternoon*.
Polyanthuses and alpine Auriculas at onc(M>n but for depth of bloom and colour a constant
a warm border, and divide and transplant the flow of air, while assisting heavily-oroppeo
old ones as soon as they have done flowering in Vines, will be more likely to produce thede-
a somewhat shaded border ; they thrive well in sireckresult. As the Grapes ripen, it will
good loamy soil mixed with leaf-mould ; it is, necessary to keep the house cooler, and to make
however, unnecessary to disturb the old stools a corresponding reduction in the supply c-
unless they have become overgrown. Wallflowers moisture, butS^e floors must not be allowed
may still be sown, but the earlier now the better, to become dry, afr^arly Vines, under daily m-
Pansy seed may also be sown, cuttings propa- creasing sun-heat ancH^bt, will take a greatti
gated, established plants transplanted, and the quantity of moisture HuH* would be judiciou!
seedlings from sowings, made early in April in to give after the turn of cfep season. See rbai
boxes or frames, pricked out or planted perma- inside borders are in a moistM* 6 *^^ state. an(
nently. If Gladioli have not yet been planted, keep the surface roots well prompted with shor
see to it without delay; at least, in the case of stable manure. Finish thinning. success^
all varieties of any importance. Run the hoe houses, guard against over-cropt5* D g» and 8 lTl
through the ground between the rows and plants inside borders, if well drained, an abundance o
of those put in early; they will now be all warm water at a temperature of 8(/°* Stop o
through the ground, and there will be no danger train forward all the strongest laterals wber

UNfVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

r*v a, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

l»7

e remains uncovered, and allow them more
lom when the fruit is atoning. Many houses
itumn Muscats, and other shy-settiDg kinds
in flower, will require artificial fertilisation,
peration which should be performed about
i» or whenever the temperature reaches the
imum on fine days. Keep up a circulation
arm air, with sufficient atmospheric mois-
to prevent the young foliage from suffering
er bright sunshine, as excessive dryness pro¬
as an unnecessary strain upon the Vines, and
3 not facilitate the setting of the fruit.

ARDY fruit. —Unremitting attention will
r bo requisite to ward off the attacks of
ides from outdoor fruit trees; for if once
ue pests get a thorough hold upon the trees
hopes of fruit that is fit either to be seen or
?n are an an end, and the crop of next year
iso endangered. Tobacco-powder or snuff,
>Ued through a flour-dredger, is the best
jedy till ihe fruit is set; but afterwards fre-
snt washing with clear water will keep down
kinds of insects and prove beneficial in a
iety of ways. It should be applied with a
tain amount of force, as through a syringe,
rden engine, or hose. Keep a sharp look-out
grubs on Apricots and caterpillars on Goose-
rry bashes, and as there is no remedy so
actual as hand-picking, let it be done at once,
ars, Peaches, and Apricots that have set their
lit thickly should be thinned out as soon as it
\ be seen which fruits are likely to swell best,
to thinning, it is very difficult to give precise
•ections, for experience alone must teach how
in they ought to be, or how many or much
lit a given tree is capable of bringing to per-
;tion. Quality rather than quantity shonld
aimed at in fruit culture ; certainly one large
d well-flavoured Pear, Peach, or Apricot is
eferable to two small ones. When thinning,
e guidiDg principle should be to have each
jit clear of its neighbour, evenly distributed
er the tree, and fully exposed to sun, air, and
;ht. Young, recently-planted trees will require
have the shoots regulated and pinched,
lined, or tied into the form they are to assume,
doing which care should be exercised to have
ie tree equally balanced, that the flow of sap
ay be alike over all parts. Any shoots that
anifest a tendency to grow stronger than the
ft may be checked by bending them down-
ards and keeping the lateral growths closely
inched eff; but weak shoots should be allowed
> retain all lateral growths made, at least for a
mniderable period. Canker and gum are the
levitable consequences of too tight ligatures
nd injury from nails, or brnises in other ways,
II of which should be guarded against. Straw-
ernes have made rapid progress during the last
days, and are now throwing up their flower-
terns. If it has not yet been done, a mulching
f long litter should be applied to them, for the
ouble purpose of keeping the fruit clean at
ipening time and to prevent the too rapid
vaporation of moisture.

Vegetables.

In order to maintain a supply of fresh young
Teas, a sowing should be made once a fortnight
hroogb the Bpring and every ten days after-
sarJs. Rows of Spinach being sown at the
jarne time, ordinary attention will secure a
iteady supply of two of our most indispensable
summer vegetables. If not already done, trans¬
plant Scarlet Runners, stake at once for protec¬
tion from frost, and put in more seed for succes¬
sion. When in thorough working order the main
emp of Beet may be sown upon ground which
has been manured for preceding crop. Many
people make a point of sowing after Broccoli.
Choose dull days for planting out Lettuce and
Cauliflowers in rich ground which has been
deeply drilled for the retention of water. Mulch
plant? under cap-glasses and keep them well
Applied with liquid manure.

A good sowing of Walcberen and Stadtholder,
* noet excellent kind, made now will come in
useful, and in order to set a dry summer
15 ^fiance, secure good crisp Lettuces by sowing
1 few drills once a fortnight on heavily manured
t pound where the plants can be thinned and
i Brawn on without a check. Where careful atten¬
tion is devoted to the Brassica tribe, Brussels
? ■ prauts, Cottager’s Kale, and some of the Broc-
Hwill now be fit for pricking out. 8elect
A [Jker strong soil in the open, give the plants
i {ferty of room, and see that they do not want
^ tor water. Prick out, shadef arid water
Digitized by \^Q

main crop of Celery. Proceed with the prepara¬
tion of the trenches, and plant Cauliflowers or
Lettuces on the ridges. Asparagus may still be
planted; yearling plants are the best; give
plenty of room, and water to settle the soil
about the roots. If tender summer Cabbages
are in request, the Rolette and Early London
Colewort are about the best varieties ; by some
these are more appreciated even than Cauli¬
flowers ; it is, however, well to grow plenty of
both, but the former are by far the most profit¬
able, as they take up less than half the room
of the Cauliflowers, 1 foot apart each way being
ample space for them. Plant out both as
ground becomes vacant, well watering them in
should the weather be dry; and, if wet, guard
them from sings by occasional dustings of lime
and soot, which also serves as manure.

Successional sowings of the following should
be made fortnightly, viz., Peas, French Beans,
Spinach, Radishes, Lettuces, and Turnips; also
Onions for salading once a month. A sowing
of these for pickling should also now be made
in a sunny, dry spot to promote quick maturity
of bulb ere they get too large. Blanks in herb
beds should be made good, and old plants of
Sage and Thyme should be cut back, after which
lightly fork over the ground and sprinkle it with
wood-ashes and soot. Cut seed-stems off Sorrel,
Sea Kale, and Rhubarb ; remove superfluous
suckers from Globe Artichokes, and plant oat
any that have been raised in heat. With
generous treatment there is a possibility of get¬
ting from the newly-planted ones a few heads
in the autumn ; water in abundance and heavy
mulchiDgs are essentials to the attainment of
this end. Still protect Potatoes. Stable litter
placed between the rows is the readiest mode of
protection after the haulm has grown too high
to be covered by drawing the soil over it. It
is now time that Vegetable Marrows and Ridge
Cucumbers were planted. Hoeing must be
classed as the most important of all kitchen
garden operations for the next few weeks, and
therefore no opportunity of doiDg it must be
missed, a clean and well-cultivated state of the
soil being thus ensured at a minimum cost of
labour. Olber routine work now consists in
band-thinning crops as soon as the seedlings can
be bandied. Parsnips in good ground should not
be left nearer together in the rows than 8 inches,
Onions 6 inches, Horn Carrots l inches, and the
larger growing kinds fiom 6 inches to 9 inches ;
Turnips and Beet also 6 inches—the main crops
of the latter should now be sown in drills 1 foot
apart. Winter Spinach ought now to be cleared
off, and if the ground be not needed for Beet,
then Cauliflowers, Coleworts, and French or
Runner Beans will be likely to do well on it as
successional crops.

Cucumbers —Under judicious management
few crops are more remunerative than Cucum¬
bers, and on this account we often see the plants
over-cropped, exhausted, and infested with in¬
sects. To prevent this, the fruit should be
thinned before it becomes large, and in the
event of the trellis being movable, great relief
may be afforded by lowering it until a current
of air can pass between the foliage and the glass,
which should be kept quite free from accumula¬
tions on the under side. Old plants in pots or
bed over hot-water pipes will now take large
quantities of diluted liquid some few degrees
warmer than the bed; they will also require
good syringing, and if the upper sides of the
leaves can be well washed occasionally from the
outside on fine afternoons, the cleansing of the
pores will tend to health and vigour. Fresh
tnrfy loam, somewhat heavier than that recom¬
mended for winter may now be used for top-
dressing, little and often as the roots appear on
the surface ; and if worms become troublesome,
clear lime-water will draw them to the surface
without injuring the roots. Keep the foliage
robust by ventilating on all favourable oeca-
6ion8, and close early in the afternoon with a
strong heat, and so render the leaves and fruit
capable of standing against sunshine without
much shading. Encourage plants in pits and
frames, the most suitable places for producing
an ordinary supply of summer Cucumbers.
Guard against summer fluctuations of tempera¬
ture by keeping up the linings, and mat up the
glass every night. Succession plants will re¬
quire more earth about the roots, the quantity
and in some measure the quality, being regu¬
lated by the size ef the frame in which they are
wing.

ROSES.

PROPAGATING ROSES.

At no time during the whole year do Roses
strike more readily from cuttings than at pre¬
sent. Plants just out of flower that have been
gently forced will furnish cuttings, and the
sooner they are taken off after the flowers are
faded the better, because loDger time will be
given them to grow into plants. Anyone having
a common hotbed or other convenience for
affording a gentle bottom heat in a close
structure will have no difficulty in finding suit¬
able quarters for the cuttings. Assuming that
there is this convenience, the first step should be
to prepare a sufficient number of 3-inch pots;
these should be first drained and then filled with
a fine sandy soil. Ordinary potting soil will do
if sandy ; but if a mixture has to be prepared,
it should consist of three parts loam and one of
sand &ifted through a fine-meshed sieve. When
the pots are ready the cuttings may be taken ;
each should have three or four joints, and
in every case it is desirable to leave two
fully developed leaves on each cutting. One
cutting placed in the middle of each pot with
the name attached to it is sufficient, and after
being well watered the pots must be taken
without any unnecessary delay to the frame or
propagating pit, as the case may be. Here
careful attention is necessary to produce satis¬
factory results. A moist atmosphere, with a
bottom heat ranging from 75° to 96°, and with
only jast enough air admitted to prevent any
excess of accumulated moisture in the frame, is
the sort of treatment which they require, and
partial darkness for the first eight or ten days
is a necessary condition. In short, the cutting?
should be shaded from 9am. to 6 p.m. for the
first ten days in order to maintain the requisite
degree of moisture about them. Water should be
given as often as may be necessary, and on the
evening of bright days both cuttings and the
sides of the frame should be gently syringed,
the object being to keep the foliage from wither¬
ing. If the leaves can be kept fresh and green
for the first fortnight, there need not be much
fear of losing the cuttings. With careful man¬
agement, quite 85 per cent, of them will form
roots in a month, and they will also have com¬
menced to make growth, a sure sign that the
roots are active, and measures should be taken
to carefully harden the growth by admitting
more air and reducing the supply of atmospheric
moisture. If the progress has been satisfactory
from the first, the plants should be ready for
shifting into larger pots in six or seven weeks.
The advantage of putting each cutting separ¬
ately in a single pot will then be apparent, as
they can be potted onwards without any serious
disturbance of the roots.

Soil.— To induce a vigorous growth it is ne¬
cessary that the plants should have a rich bold¬
ing soil. The most suitable for them should
oonsistof three parts good fibrous loam and one
part rotten hotbed or farmyard manure, with a
sprinkling of coarse sand or road grit; all should
be well mixed together and passed through a
coarse-meshtd sieve, but care should be taken
that the mixture is not wet when used ; if it is,
it will be sure to run together in a compact
mass into which the roots will refuse to pene¬
trate ; indeed, unless the soil is in a suitable
condition as regards dryness, it should be spread
out on the floor of an open shed for a few days
to allow some of the moisture to escape. These
details may appear somewhat tedious, but they are
necessary if early and satisfactory results are to
be expected.

Potting.— In potting provide rather liberal
drainage and use only clean pots. From the
cutting pots shift into a 6-inch size pot, press the
soil moderately Arm, and give the roots a gentle
watering at once. When potted replace the
plants in a close pit or frame, and if they can be
set on a slight bottom heat so much the better,
but this is not absolutely necessary so long as
they can have a position where currents of air
do not reach them, and where they can be
shaded duriDg strong sunshine. For the first
fortnight very little air will suffice; after tba
time they will require much less shade and more
air, but they ought not to be folly exposed all
the summer if it is desired to get them well
established before winter sets in. The shelter
of a cold pit or frame is all they require
Under such treatment they will become wej*-

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

98

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[May 3 1884

rooted and vigorous. They should be allowed
to remain in the cold pit all winter or in some
other light structure secure from frost, and in
spring they will produce a few good flowers be¬
fore any Roses can be had from the open beds.
If required for pot culture, they should be shifted
into 8-inch pots as soon as they go out of flower,
and then placed in a cold frame for a few weeks
to get established before being exposed to the
open air. No further shifting into larger pots
will be required, i if intended for planting in
the open ground ; but Rose trees that have been
wintered under glass ought not, even in the
most favoured localities, be planted out until the
middle of May, and in the northern counties the
first week in J une is quite early enough.

_ C. C.

Gloire de Dijon Rob©.— This grand old
Rose is unquestiouably one of ihe best, if not
the very best, that can be grown, either indoors
or out. It is exceedingly hardy, and almost the
first in bloom and the last out. Under glass it is
very rare that it is entirely without flowers, and
for many months daring early spring and sum¬
mer it thrives exceedingly full. We have one in
a bouse now that has a stem as thick as one’s
arm, from which we can any day cut great
numbers of Roses and half-opened buds, all
having stout stunly stems, that keep them
erect and show them off to advantage. The
plant referred to is budded on a climbing De-
voniensis, a capital stock for any of ihe strong
rambliDg sorts and would, I should think, be
the very best stock for Marechai Niel, of which
so many complain, owing to a way in which it
has of cankering or going off at the union
between stock and scion. This appears to be
brought about by the swelling that occurs there
None of the stocks that I have seen it on yet
appear free enough for it. The way in which
we manage our Gloire de Dijon is, when the
first flush of bloom is over, to prune it in, or
rather thin it out severely, and when it breai'a
again, which it quickly does, we lay in the best
of the young wood loo>ely and let it run as
long as it will. It is from the buds on these
shoots that it flowers the following year, and

few, if any, miss showing blooms. As a standard
or bush in a bed, Gloire de Dijon is compara¬
tively useless, bat allowed to grow unrestricted
on a wall, trellis, or fence, as its nature re¬
quires, it will famish Roses in abundance. To
have flowers at different seasons it is a good plan
to have plants in varioas aspects; those on a
sooth aspect are in bloom very early, while others
in more shady and cool situations succeed them,
and afford blossoms quite unique in colour and
laden with the sweetest perfume. Some we cut
from a north-east wall last year were supero in
both these respects; they were of the richest
fawn colour and full of odour, of which Gloire
de Dijon has as much as any other Rose, and
perhaps me re —S.

11397.— Rosea weak —Roses purchased in
the nursery and dug from the open ground
would not flower very strong the first year,
unless they were taken up very early in the
season, say early in November. Yours seem to
be very poor indeed. Did you give them good
compost to grow in ? The Rose is rather a gross
feeder, and will not give you large, nchly-
oolonred blooms unless it is well fed. The pot¬
ting soil should be good clayey loam, the turfy
part decayed if possible; a fourth part decayed
horse manure, and for Tea Roses a fourth part
of peat should be added, and an 8-inch potful
of crushed bones to each barrow-load of loam.
Some sand may be added if the loam is too
heavy. Give your plants some weak manure
water, and keep the leaves free from aphides
and mildew, and if they are under glass, keep
them near the light, and give air freely.—
J. D. E.

Hints to advertisers —Being a constant
reader of Gardening, allow me to ask florists
and seedsmen who advertise in Gardening to
kindly state in their advertisements the post
office or the nearest post town in their district,
so as customers, In sending postal orders or
postal notes for their plants or seeds, may know
where to make such payable.— Frank Mur-
rant, Bristol.

Ivy on brickwork.—“ J. A.” had better nail the
Ivy to the wall for the first year or two, and then If It la
not a very smooth wall, It will soon take care of Itself, or
plant Ampelcpais Yeitchi instead, which will cling
to any wall —A. HATCHES. 1

Digitized by VjJtK »gl£

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11356.— Grubs in garden — la reply to
»*Y.,” in Gardening of April 12 :—What he
calls a grub is not a grub, but belongs to the
genus Testacellus, or shell slug, the right name
of which is Testacella Maugeri. There are two
species known, one a native of the south of
France, and the other of the Island of Teneriffe,
but both are now naturalised in England. It is
carnivorous in its habits, burrows in the soil, and
feeds upon worms, the common earthworm beiDg
its special prey, and this it is said to swallow
whole; in fact, I have found them upon several
occasions in the act of devouring the earthworm.
It carries a small ear-shaped shell on the hinder
end of its back, and it lengthens itself to a con¬
siderable size. “ Y.” might rest assured that they
will not hurt his plants, in fact they are great
friends to the gardener. I recollect hearing my
father say that many years ago he received from
the Royal Horticultural .Society the sum of one
guinea, offered for one hundred of the Testa¬
cella Maugeri for the purpose of introducing
them to the Society’s gardens.— W. Webley,
Ttmbury.

- Since writing my letter, which appeared

inGABDKNiNGof the 12ihinst., I have reart Grant
Alien’s book, “ The Evolutionist at Large,” and
the following extract, referring to the snail tribe
l think answers my own query : ' You will not

fi d a Testacella unless yoa particularly look for
him, for he seldom comes above ground, being
a most bloodthirsty subterraneous carnivora,
who follows the barrows of earthworms as
savagely as a ferret tracks those of rabbits.*’—
—Y.

11398. — Hyacinths permanently
planted.—Hyacinths will do fairly well if left
in the ground from year to ytai. They flower
best for the first four or five years; after that
they should be lifted and replanted, separating
the bulbs. They require rich, deep, bat light
sandy soil. Some sea-sand placed round the
roots is beneficial to them. If the offsets
attached to the bulbs are large and easily
separated, they may be removed and planted
separately. If the same careful attention were
given to the cnlture of the H) acim h in this
country as in Holland, the importations from
that country need not be so heavy —J. D. E.

11392.—Aphides In the garden —When
this pest attacks any plants under glass they
can readily be destroyed by fumigating them
with Tobacco smoke This method of destroying
them cannot be adopted out-of-doors. They are
particularly fond of Roses, and attawk the
young growing shoots in their very earliest
stages. Syringing with soft-soap and water will
destroy them. Two ounces of soap should be
dissolved in a gallon of rain-water, and the
plants be syringed with it.—J. D. E.

11399. — Planting out Carnations.—
Your Carnation is doubtless the variety Sou¬
venir de la Malmaison. It will grow and
flower if planted out now; but the large,
double, delicately tinted flowers are easily in¬
jured by wind and rain. If you can grow it
under glass it will be more satisfactory. It is
readily propagated by layering, so that next
year yon might have some to plant out and
others to grow under glass.—J. D. E.

11400 — Double and single Stocks —
The double varieties can be distinguished from
the single ones as soon as the flower-buds can
be seen. The buds of the single ones are thin
and pointed, the double ones are round and full.
The plants ought to be set out where they are
to flower long before the buds arrive at that
stage The best way is to plant out rather
thickly, and pull out the single ones as soon as
you can discern them.—J. D. E.

" 11846.— Hoyas and Stephanotis.—
Hoya carnosa will bloom well in a cool house
requiring no warmth through the spring, summer,'
and autumn, and not more than 50° in winter to
keep it healthy and vigorous. The Stephanotis
does not require artificial heat during tfce
summer months, but it ought to have a moist
heat of from 60° to 70° through the spring, rest¬
ing it in winter at 55°.

11408.— Propagating Azaleas. — The
best way to propagate Azalea mollis is from
seeds. The best stocks on which to graft Aza¬
leas are seedlings from any strong growing

variety. It is very easy to raise Azaleas
seeds, and the plants soon grow to a good
They can be propagated from cattings.and
soon make satisfactory flowering
J. D. E.

11402.— Black fungus.— What yon
black fungus is a sticky substance d
honey dew, and is the excrement of i
scale, or some insect pests. If yoa clear
plants from these pests you will not have
trouble with the honey dew. Orange trees
Camellias are most frequently affected by
J. D E.

11261.— Packing flowers. —Gather them who
«ud is off. put them In water for twa or three Ik
then pack them so close together that they wffl
shake In a tin box. old biscuit. Tobacco box* f|
Mustard tins are txcelleut for this purpose.—E. 11 .1

Anemones.— A long article appeared In Gt
on this *uuject a week or two ago — B. Belton-i
of volume* of the Oardkn, commencing »t Tot
would answer your purpose better th»n any both
know of. In fact we know of no other thst woold

the reqitiremen s stated.- M Hubert* — You hid

write to the editor of the article you refer to.

— Theieisno such book issued that we ire s»ut
In some of the earlier volumes of the GaRUKV irsts

frequently printed- F. H. Williams

greenhouse plants, price 6s., from the autba r ,
WilUums, Victoria Nurseries, Upper Holloway.
Culture of ihe Vine, by J. Simpson, price Is.

<fc Co.

Names of Plants —J. Thomson.— NstcIbci

chains- Levi. Verbaacum nLnum- U. 0

s\lvestria.- ha>k.— tory.salia tuberosa-Da/

N*rciaan« mcschstus; -axlfraga ligulata (plnkl

Dav-s Bird Cherry ( ninu* Padn.)- k B.-Vt

Merttnsia vireln ca ; white is Corydalls a bt.<—Pi
Jeff— l, Aspidistra lurlda varbgata; 2, Anti,
Scherzeiianum ; 3, Cjpripedium b&rbatnm; 4

variegatum.- J. F Royner. —Sedum sib

Dnre»port.— Kquisetum arve. bo.- D. Jf.—Adooii

nalis.- A. L. L.— Next wtek.

Orchis maculata.— In Qabdenivo Iliuj
of April 12th there is * not ice by ‘ • L. C ” of sn 0
without the pnrple spot- on the leaves. I have oh*
this variety growing on the banks of Glendon rim;
quite distinct from maculata, the fi were a lalacu
I have not gathered one with a white blossom. 1
dug up seve al of the plants, and moved them Into
garden.—S. A. B

yilEfclE..

I

Rules for Correspondents.— Ah’ coma
Hons/or insertion should be clearly and conduit, i
on one side qf the j>aper only and addressed to the Lc
Letters»elating to business to the PUBLISHER. Tht
and address qf the sender ~aui~ed, in addition f#
noni de plume to be used in the paper. Aicgweut»(
should always bear the number and title qf the
ansicered. ti’hcn more than one query u sent each
be on a separate piece qf paper. Oicing to the wen*
Gardening going to press a considerable time bd>*i
day of publication, it is not possible to inser
communications the toeek they are received,
answered should be sent to us again.

Naming plant©.— Four plants,.fruits, or fovea
can be named at one time % and this only vhen
specimens are sent. We do not undertake tt
varieties qf florists' flowers, such as Fucnsiat, Gera
Azaleas, as these can only be correctly nasul
specialist who has the means qf comparison at hand. A
communication respecting plants or flowers tent to
should always accompany the parcel.

I145i.—Plan to railing in conservatory
someone kinuly give me advice ab*ut a coowi
which is aimost a failure? Scarcely anything
in it not even the common Geranium. Perm, Fnn>
and Crocuses are the only things I have bten
rear The roof is thick blue gla^s, and all round tw
is a fancy glasa about 1 foot deep. Is the coloured
injurious ? The ventilation is good, also the u
Some Pelargoniums which w e bought last year srt
healihy, but small and backward, and the nnnenc*
says he would not bo at all surpiised if we do nouw'
them. Is .here any mystery about their cultivation
they require 6timulanl*j ?—OAK LEIGH.

11462 - Bulbs from Cape Town.-I am
by receipt from a friend at Cape Town of a P*^ 5
bulbs labelled as follows I, Pelargonium dwf.
L&cheualia aurea; 8,Ixia sp (?; 4, Lapeyrouaia cop® w *
5, Bablana rubra; 6, Orniihcg&lum dwf. whu«.
Sparaxls grandiflora; 8, Ornitht galum aureuzn; j, '
senia marginata ; 10, Brunsvigia Joscphinic, *“^ 7 ?
is as big as my head. Of cour»e I do not know
should do to grow them, but if someone will kin<uy m
form me I shall be obliged.— Fair Trike.

11463.—Moths on Gooseberry buabea-^#
anyone give me any information as to the tre3Un«i*
moth that has attacked the Gooseberry busht<4«‘ u "J
here? The Gooseberry bushes in the garden
own are already covered with this pest, and «
difficult to kill. Several thtngB have been tried to delta*
it but without avail, such as Tobacco duit, soot
thickly over them, white hellebore, and soapy *stw.-
John Nicol.

11464.— Getting boilers.-Will someone '*•
learned in boilers give brief directions for the iwiunP
a small conical cast iron boiler ? The chief points
which I am in doubt are : (1) What space > ® * J.
between the fire bars and the bottom, andW wfl ..
to set the brickwork solid against the outside o

t fT tbe ° n 10

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

May 3, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

99

Md© mm Well as through, the centre.—

—-—-- or Nardil shall be glad to
4ve tafoTnation regarding this plant. Is it grown In
IsQ.i, and If to, in wnat soil would It be best raised ?
re received b lbs from abroad and would like to
r them Also about the Fleur-de-lis. Is it grown in
land, and in wh it soil? I bare seen it in Spain, and
^received bulbs from there.— Peregrinus.

'-AH -Hardy plants for next bprlogr.— When
is best time to aow the seed of Pyrethnuna, Sweet
uamt, aDd Wallflowers, and other hardy plants, that
tgh& be able to sell the plants in the spring ? Should
I be »own in cold frames or in the open ground ?—A
Jff AST REAPER.

for CUttingf.—I have some very fine
Its of Maidenhair Fern, but the fronds always shrivel
«xm aft^r beii g Rath-red, even when I steep them for
r» In water. Is there any particular way of growing
u for catting ? The Maidenhair Ferns bought at the
«t* lasts fresh for days.—An at*UR.

{ 1.—Fir tree oil —Will someone who has experience
| tell me if FI*- tree oil will destro* all kinds of in-
an<i parasite*, or will it injure the plant*, such as
s trees and fruit trvea? Lisewlae, do Apple trees
m fr. m cuttings require grafting, or will they bear
; without ?-S*LlNA.

4S9 — Primulas after flowerinff.—I had in the
una two very fine Primulas given me which have
* one ma*s of bloom ever since. There are no seeds
wMuty, but the plants are very healthy in the
n. will they be of any use 4 they are repotted and
for another year ?—Booth.

flower eeeds.—If I sow Hepatica,
\ula, wallflower, and other such seed now n a cold
o bo use, would they fl >wer by > hristmas without
? What toil and treatment do they require?—

Waterlmr Ferns.—Could anyone tell me If
Uu-hair Feros should be watered overhead everj
t? They are in a greenhouse, temperature 55°. Some
‘•^•^•^J^dying. ^So^far, the Ferns have beeu

rfS.-Pottlng PeiartfOdtuma. — I have some
liule Pelargoniums in 6-inch pots; do they need ra¬
ng ? Any information as to temperature size of
soil, Ac., will be thankfully received.—L ouisa.

<•*•—Shading conservatories.—I should feel
lobliged if some reader would Inform me of a com-
fan with which to paint the glass of a conservatory
W purpose o/ shading?-EL C.

-fl*—Ciimbln*/ ptante for fernery.—As I
to nave the ioside of my fernery covered with some
liag plant, can any reader recommend one that
attach itself to the woodwork ?—Adiantum.

#5.-Daffodils not flowering —Our Daffodils
jbundant in foliage, but almost destitute of flower*,
gnyonc suggest a remedy ?— SCOTIA.

W.—Gieen fly.— How is Tobacco water prepared

food. Whenever any food is left in the run it is a
sure sign they have got too much. I keep them
clean and give them plenty of fresh water
They have a large ran—15 yards by 7 yards—
besides the liberty of an adjoining field. I had
chickens out this year by March 26, which
should lay in October or November. Last year
I had 2376 eggs, and taking the?e at market
prices and deducting expense of food, I had a
profit of £9 per annum, which I consider very
fair for a beginner. The Andalusian lays the
largest egg, but some of the common breeds lay
very good eggs— Gallus.

©yes —Perhaps some reader of
Gardening might be able to give me some advice how
to treat my fowls Their eyes swell and close up and
continue discharging. The fowls are of a cross breed,
ana are fed on Maize and Barley, and the hen house is a
nes one and is lime whited, and they have a good run
over stable an I yard. — W. T. P.

Fowls without leathers.—Several of my fowls
appear to have lost their feather* from their brea-ts and
necks, which gives them a very rough and Jigged appear
ance. On examination I find the potato of imny of the
feathers off, as if bitten or cut off Can I be informed
the cause, and how to prevent it in fnture?-J. B.

fowls In garde as.- Will any reader
kindly tell me if Guinea Fowls are de»*ructiva in a
garden? also, if they lay well, and it they fly over walls 7
—GUIVBA FfWL.

TEA-SGENTED ROSES

IN POTS FOR THE

CONSERVATORY.

Fine bushy plants coining into flower, including such
beautiful varieties as Niphdtoa, Marshal Niel
Catherine Me;met, Ac.

One dozen, distinct varieties
Two dozen, equally choice

.. 103. Od.
.. 803. Od

applied for the destruction of the green fly?

I toy other or better means of getting rid of I

dutase pest?—H. T. G. _ _

w -Glaitag greenhouse. —I should be much
••1 i( someone would tell me how to glaza the top
A*n roof greenhouse without putty, and to make it
i-tightf—.R egular subscriber.

&d.-3oll for jpotting Ferns, &o.— Will some-
Uadly tell me what is the beat soil for Asplenium
■Warn and Cyclamens ?—H. P. M.
m -Fungus on fljwer pots.— Can anyone in-
mehowto cleanse pots tronbled with fungus? ~
oxiotu not to shift thep’ants.—A diantum.

70 — *7eeds on lew ns— Can any reader recnm-
l so economical method of extirpating weeds from a
da a clay soil?—H. C.

£L-Mimuius for greenhouse.—Will some
ir give me hints on the culture of MlmuluBes suitable
is greenhouse ?—Hybrid.

te -Geraniums for winter. — How ought
tt Oer iniums to be treated to flower through the
wl- amateur.

71—Azaleas after blooming.— I have two
which have bloomed freely, what shall 1 now
Uh them?— LvUESA.'. ... _

d4.-Pisnts for ' winter blooming. — What
I oouhl l now sow for winter blooming ? I have a
greenhouse.—LOUISA.

.71-Ivy for aide of house.—Can anyone suggest
*st quick growing Ivy lor east side of house ?—

>TJLiTRY.

AO poultry.— I am much in-
ited in the articles which have lately ap¬
ed is Gardening on the treatment of
*ry. I will give my experience, which is
fed to two years. I reside about three miles
i Glasgow, where the climate is not so hot
X England. Last year I had twenty hens
t»o cocks, and I got eggs all the year round,
so many as eight and nine dozen per
V, but in dead of winter only five or six eggs
My hens are Leghorn, Andalusian,
caamon breeds, with a Leghorn and Anda-
cock, both last year’s birds. I feed the
-iryin the morning with warm food, con-
of flue thirds and Indian meal mixed
|feg6tables ; at mid-day I give them hard
^^iked with hot water and scraps of food
a the evening, light wheat, Indian com,
fr mixed together-2-o»h tablespoonful to
• It is a mistake to give themrtoo much
Digitized by

Hybrid Perpetual Roses.

IN POTS

FOR THE OPEN GROUND.

These are considerably reduced la price this year,
and are now offered at oaly a slight increase above
the sum charged for plants from the grouu I during
the winter. They are particularly suit »ble for Ailing
up vacancies, forming new Rose beds, or planting in
borders; may be put out at any time without any
rUk, an l will flower freely through jut the summer
and autumn.

One dozen distinct and beautiful kinds,
including such varieties as A. K. Wil¬
liams La France, Penelope Mayo, John
Bright, Mabel Morrison, Ac. lOs. 0d.

Two dozen ditto. 20a. Od.

Fifty, in thirty or more distinct kinds .. 40s. Od.

We make no charge for basket or packing when
cash accompanies order.

New Catalogue of Roses in Pots, Cle¬
matis and Climbing Plante, Bedding
Plante, Single and Double Dahlias, &c.,
sent post free on application.

Geo.C00UNG&S0N

Nurasrymrj and Sind Merjhants,

free ; b r e a o al a Jth^ richjso ar let ; j mm e aie bulbs, 2s. per

dozen. free.-

ENORMOUS
SALE OF
HEARTHRUGS

Buy your Hearthrugs from the Manufacturers and
save warehouse aDd retailer's profit.

53 NESLEY AND CO. have to hand 24,000

doznQ beautifully dedgned Hearthrug*, and now offer
them to the readers of thi* paper at ih« unheard of price at
f* Mo■ »a*h They are 6 feat long by 3 feet wide Eajh rug
is hondsom -ly blended lu five o - six of the richest colours, and
may be hid iu >had« to match any ool »ur of carpet or suite.
The designs are “xquidte, including grapes, oak leaves, and
flower* of all deairioti-ns maoonry and other designs too
numerous to mention. They are suitable for the man-ion or
cottage Nev*r before in the history of the owp-t trade
was such a large and handsome rug rffered at treble the
price. In order hat»very home may possess one or more o
the*e beau ifut rug* will eend them to any address (oar-
nage free) fur the amount stated.

‘•GARDENING ILLUSTRATED " COUPON.

Name....

Address...

We guarantee to *end ona rug as advertised above
on receipt of P O O for 2* lid., or 35 sta ai* ; two
for 5i. 6d., or 68 stamps; three for 8».. or 98 Btampo.

(Signed) S. NESLEY k OO

All P.O.O.'s to be made payable to —

S. NESLEY & CO.,

7, Commercial Biildiags, Heaton Lane,

STOCKPORT.

JINGLE DAHLIAS, last years roots which

O will bloom mioh earlier than seedlings; One mixed
oolours. 31.61. per dozou, post free.—GEO. COOLING A SON,
Nurserymen, Bath, _

ITOLLY fiOlyKS, healthy and established
I-L plants in pots in variety, that will bloom well this Bea-
bou. 6s 61. per doz°>n. post free. A* these are very scarce
early orders are Holioited — GEO. COOLING k SON, N ar-
t erymen Bath. ___

(TLADIOLU87one dozen distinct and beautiful

O varieties, named, free for 6s. 6d.; In mixture, 4s 6d. doz ,

MUSICAL HOMES

THE “ORCHESTRONE”

Pricfl 2s each or 96 'tamps. Carriage free.

A Sample Instrument amt,
Carrinye Fret m>th 16 nure-
fuUy uUcted paj>er dis<-g t
ich embt changed at often
ia desired.

The Omh-str >ne Is a new
and charming instrume.it
that any perso . can p ay
wirh<mt study or tuitiou;
thus the possessor at onoe
becomes on an * qu lity with
practioil musicia is without
learning a note of mu Ac
The (>rchestroue cau be so
alter- dand adjusted in t me.
that the melody p oduoed

m . _„ , , . may b* deep and rich aB the

Violonoello, plaintive as the Flute, or melodious as the
OJarionette.

The price of the Orchestrone places it within the reach of
all. and no home oan be dull wheie one’s favourite melodies
either aacred, operitie. dance or song) oan follow each other
as frequently as det ired.

The Orcheitroue harmonises beautifully with the Piano,
Harp, or Violin and is not affected by a damp atmosphere
it is also very compact and nicely poliehed on the outside.
Address :

ARTHUR FOSTER, Secretary,

The English Orchestrone Company,

Works: WOOD GREEN, LONDON, N.

"PRIMULAS l PRIMULAS i! PRIMULAS!!*
-L Fifteenth year o'diitrioiitim. Willi *ms' *uperh «train
Is 61 oer doz. 10s Der 00 , Oin Q riri*s s»me price Package
and oarriaga free for oaah with order. Ab >ve are strong
plaits fit for ousting int» 3 inch pjti—JOHN STEVENS.
T he Nar*erie9. Oovdot^y _

TTERBEN\S.—Thirty b ist varieties in culti-

v vitlon flue ba*h» pla it* fr >m sintle pot< 2t. pe* doz ;
Fuohtias. double* and single*, be t e hibitioo varietiei 2i.
par doz ; G trau umi sluglea and loub e*. in all colours 2s 6i.
oer doz. all from *ingie pot* a* l free p->r o«roeU put —
JAMES OOLLIEH. Juu, FiOiiit, Sou^h Grove, S*. Ana'i
Hoad, Stamford Hill. Ml ’dleaet

. CODLING k SON. Bath.

to DAN8IES, So itoh vtneties, magmfioont collec

I A, tion New Rn^or PansvCatalogues for a peuny stam p
CO | — laoRDE TEMPLEPON, Rise Merchant, Prestwiok, N.B

gie

Now ready. Part I (Double Number), price la.; and
Parts II. and III. p ice 6d. each.

THE ILLUSTRATED

niCHONARY OF GARDENING: A Practi-

L) cal Knoyclopsedia of Hortiou tare for Amateurs and
Profeesionals. Exhaustive, uraotioal. magnificently illui-
trated, and invaluable In either small or large garde js-
** Your excellent dictionary ”—W. Robinson, Esq , pro¬
prietor and editor of The Garden, Qardtning Illustrated,
ko. " No work of the kind could bo of more u<*e to the
vrafestionaX and the amateur gardener."—Public Opinion,

SpeaUl term* to booksellers, nurserymen, and gardeners.

London: L. Upoott Gill. 170, strand. W o _

»THE SCARLET CLEMATIS (C. cocoinea), a

A truly charming novelty either far climbing np trellis or
scrambling over r.«okwork. perfectly hardy. This should bs
plaolndby dozens In every garden; urioe Is. @<l ea'-h. 3 for 4*.,

6 for 7*. 61., 11 for 13* 6d — HDDPEft k ©37, Oovent Gar-

den. London. UPJ | V ERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

REEL.

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

The Hope Nurseries, Bedale,

YORKSHIRE.

Established 1785.

HENRY MAY

OFFERS THE FOLLOWING GOOD THINGS
Marguerite B or Paiiu Daisies, yellow, strong plants, 3 b. per

* Marguerite* white, strong plauti. 2f. per do7.en.
Marga^iitee, blue or f&ni Daisy, 3-. per do*.

AQudepaa white, one-year old plant*

^A^Tviile^a'skimieri, scarlet and yellow, one-year-old plauU,
Sa Aquilt» D chrysantha, yellow, ono-year-old plant*, 3s. per

, yy READY.—New and interesting cata-1

loguc of Pansies andL£ther_ Aorta to 1 flowg*^! ^ 1

N^logue or ransiea anu u«*c» “™J

for 2 stamps, gratis to purchasers.—WX. SAN UK
Gardens. Leek, Staffs. _ . _

rdens, Dee*. etans. __——

H OLLY FOR HfiDGES, 12 to 15 m., 2B«.; 15 to

18 to . J5e.; 18 to M In . 60r per 100 JoMf Brtjoo-
Uining heights and prices of well ktowu Quick, Ash, I^reh,
Fpruc? Pines, Oaks, Underwood, etc., free.-RlCr
SMITH ‘ ”---

Pines, (Jans, utoerwoou, etc., free.—R>6 HAR D
a CO., Nurserymen an d Seed Mer chan ts, Wo nwt *.

Pfllli n* - — I

aTR^WBKKKlES. - Capital roots, 4s.pcrl00.

O 11st, containing descriptions of the beat “*^"**"7
BICHARD SMITH 4 OO., Nurserymen and Seed Mer- I

oh anis, Worcester. _

HUGHES, Gardener, Wilmalow, can i
H the new Evergreen Edging Plant for Garden i

Id per yard. Sample, four stamps. Primroses. 6s. 1000.
Orders £1 free._ _ 1004 I

OH A VV 8 UEHKBRaTKO

^ flower,

rS—UELKBRATKu MAN UKtsi for
„ flower, fruit, and kitchen gardens. also special for Rose*
and Vines.— DAViD SHAW 4 CO., Clayton, near Mau-

ehfter. ____ : — l —-

\7ERBAN AS.—Well rooted, beat varieties

single poti, 5s. dozen ; seedlings from finest known ■t r **°?
Iil dozen. Petunias, showy mixed colours M. dozen.
Lobelias, 3d. ; Golden Pyrethrums, 3d., all free— LAW»
AND CON. Beec'es ^urgeti^s. _ 1

everyone with a garden

Should grow the following good plants, sure to gire
satUfaction

ANEMONE jiponica aloa. 4 plant* 2 1 . ; per dozen Be.
ANEMONE »ylvetitris, similar to the former, but flower* la

PINK Mrs. sfiukins, sp eudid white Clove-soanted, 4 for 2i.
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D Alb Y, beautiful variegated-lea red. 3*. per dozen.

DAISY the rare Heu-and-chioton, 8 j. per dozen.

Heliotropes, strong rooted pianw. as per «». I }JaI 81E ‘,12 iu « fine varieties for St 6d.

FuchRias. strong rooted plant* 2a per dozen, DAHLIAS, 12 aeellmg single in 12 varieties, 1 b. 6<L

b Avalanche, J^ e AT®^’.^°uJl a fl^’/« d m^^ C m>r B ciozenl I MYOSOTlfci psSustris semperflorena. now perpetual flowering

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good collection of named sorts, 2s. per dozen. # ,

Pansies, seedlings, strong plants, saved finest fanoy and
show varieties, la per dozen.

Daisies, double red, good dumps, 3s. per 103.

double white ,. •• , _ tftA

Polyanthus, giant strain, mixed, strong plants, 7s per 1W.
Carnations, seedlings, one-year o’d plants, 3s. dozen
Primula cartusoides, stroDg flowering plant j. is. per dozen.
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Pelargoniums, strong busby plants in 4 Hnch pots inhud,
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Arnand, Dr. Masters, Ac., 8i. per dozen _

Nasturtium, fine double red vaiiety (Hermine Graehoff). 1»-
per dozen; also Tom Thumb (crimson), Rahy King. Empress
of India (<i«rk crimson), King Theodore (black), 8d. per dox.
Heliotropes, strong rooted plant*, la per doz.

as Avalanche, Kdeiwetss, x,uoy rmum, »uu auihk..u -

Dahlias, single, strong seedling*. 6ue named. Is. per dozen.

. single pot roots, named 2s. 6d dozen.

fine show and fancy varieties. 3s per dozen.

Gladiolus, a fine collection of named kinds,4 l to 6« per doz.
Hardy herbaceous and amine plants, a good oolteotlon of
800 kinds, 3*. doz , 20s. perlUO.

Asters, Pieony-tl . from collections, 6d per *oore.

Stocks, dwarf. German Ten-week, double. 6d. per score.
Marigolds, French, selected. <«d. per soore,

, African, selected 6d. per score.

Musk, sweet-scented. 2e. pet dozen.

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OARNATIONS AND PICOTEES, Carter’s,

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[May 3,1

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THE SPECIFIC FOR

NEURALGIA

UNIVERS

where.

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

MAY 10, 1884.

No. 270.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 90.)

The Pear.

Winter Management.

That are the objects sought to be obtained by
>runing? All ought to be able to give an intelli-
ent reason for the faith that is in them, and
he acts which spring from it. In gardening, as
q all other things, this is an age of scepticism,
-ome say don’t head back your newly-planted
reea, you are only wasting time ; others say
runing is a delusion and a snare, in fact worse;
herefore, do not prune at alL The object of
•runing is to facilitate fruitfulness. If it does not
oild up a handsome fertile tree, then it has
een wrongly conceived and badly executed,
aid I think it might be demonstrated that all
mit-bearing trees, even the Oak, might in their
arly life be improved by judious pruning. But
i the case of the Oak the pruning should be
irected to the formation of a perfectly balanced
ree ; in short, to tnend nature by relieving the
^ader from undue competitions, and otherwise
kjualising the flow of sap by rectifying the
i dance of the tree. A somewhat similar
rinciple should guide us in the management of
rchanl trees, ana especially is this needful in
arly life. For the most part the trees in a
ursery are crowded together, and the wood
uule under such conditions, although it may
e strong and healthy, is not so well adapted
> form the base of a tree destined for a
mg life as if each tree stood out singly,
aid in all cases as regards orchard trees I
scommend heading back in the early spring,
ist before the buds burst the season after
lanting. In no other way, in the majority of
rees, can a good base be secured. In doing
his the very weak shoots may be cut very close
ome, and the stronger shoots to four eyes.
Vhen the eyes break disbud the surplus eyes,
n<l the foundation of a handsome tree will be
lid, in most cases, without auy further trouble,
n succeeding years the pruning will be chiefly
onfined to thinning out superfluous branches,
r those which are badly placed. Those who
eglect to prune will some day be landed in a
ifficulty, for good fruit cannot be obtained
without a certain amount of pruning. If proof
f this is necessary it may be found in hundreds
f unpruned orchards. All pruning should be
one as soon after the leaves fall as possible,
is regards the renovation of old Pear-trees,
'ead what has been said about the Apple, as the
ame treatment will suit the Pear.

In the case of trained or restricted trees,
•runing is even more indispensible ; but when
nining has done injury, which I admit it may
f iguorantly done, it is not pruning as an ab-
tract principle which has been at fault. It is
he pruner who has failed to grasp the right
dea ; but in most cases in the winter manage-
uent of fruit trees the chief work, where the
ummer pruning was rightly done, will consist
n cutting out dead wood, shortening back-
nags and long spurs, or thinning out the spurs
vhere too numerous. This will only be neces-
ary to a limited extent, unless the trees have
>een mismanaged previously for some years. In
•runing, of course, it is absolutely essential that
he pruner should make a study of each tree,
•ecause some trees produce blossom buds on the
uda of comparatively long spurs. The Marie
»uise Pear may be cited as a case in point,
fhe sound, plump little buds that contain the
utnre blossoms are so different to the longer,
•hinner wood buds that no further reference is
leaded. Yet I remember one case where an un¬
billed pruner in cutting promiscuously did a
food deal of damage to the future crops by not
able to identify the fruit buds. Still, such
igaorance is rare.

Insects and Diseases.

On suitable soils the Pear is a long-lived tree,
ltd there is generally an absence of insect attacks
wd freedom from disease. Sometimes, indeed,
theUrva of a species of sawfly. (commonly called

Digitized'by L.O

gie

the Pear slug, because of its resemblance to a
small black slimy slug) makes its appearance
about July on the upper side of the leaves,
where its work is very rapid, speedily eating
off all the green matter, whon, of course, the
leaves fall and the trees are very seriously
injured. I had to deal with one rather trouble¬
some case oil an east wall some years ago ; but
I destroyed the insects by using limewater
through the garden engine. Lime dusted over
the leaves from above was speedily effective.
If taken in time there will be no great amount
of injury done. Coccus Pyri, the Pear Scale,
often attacks weakly trees, but it is easily
got rid of by washing the trees in winter, when
the leaves are down and the buds are dormant,
with a strong solution of Gishurst compound,
not less than 6 ounces to the gallon of water ;
applying it warm with a spokebrush, rubbing
it well in among the spurs or wherever
the insects congregate. Sometimes the com¬
pressed insolubility is thickened to the con¬
sistency of paint by adding lime, soot, sulphur,
and clay, and applied with a small painter’s
brush. In bad cases this dressing is generally
effectual. But when the presence of insects can
be ascribed to the weakness or debility of the
tree, the judicious application of a top dressing,
or a thorough soaking of liquid manure, as
recommended for Apple trees, will be of great
advantage. In the spring and early summer
the leaves of Pear trees are often curled up and
injured by the larva? of a species of moth, chiefly
the Tortrix Contaminana ; but these, if taken
in time, need not cause much 1 apprehension ; the
best way to deal with them is to go over the
trees frequently and crush the maggots between
the finger and thumb. A week of persistent
effort will get rid of them. In dry, hot seasons
both thrip and red spider will attack the leaves
of Pear trees. Soft-soap and tobacco wash
will destroy thrip, and soft-soap with sulphur
will banish the red spider; but in both those
cases a good supply of water and a free use of
the garden engine during the warm summer
evenings will prove a good insecticide, and add
to the health and strength of the trees at the
same time.

Protecting the Blossoms.

Very few people attempt this, though a crop
of good dessert Pears is as valuable as a crop of
Peaches. It is rue Pear blossoms are more
difficult to shelter than are the former, or by
reason of the crop for the most part being borne
on spurs they stand further from the wall,
and would be more liable to lie damaged by nets
or any textile coverings which might be used
for the purpose. I have seen some advantage
to arise from placing branches of laurels and
other evergreen shrubs and trees among the
Pear branches. Sprays of Hazel, Birch and Elm,
well furnished with small twigs, are also useful,
and if they don’t save the crops they will at
least do no harm, nor yet add to the cost of
production. A coping made of branches of
trees, projecting a foot or so from the wall, will
be very useful. This may easily be obtained by
straining a wire just under the stone wall coping,
near its outer edge, and thrusting the sprays of
shrubs between the wire and the stone coping,
and allow the feathery ends to hang down.

Gathering and Storing.

It is possible to prolong the season of many
kinds of Pears by proper and careful gathering.
The usual plan is to gather the crop all at one
time, regardless if all are ripe enough to gather
and store. Anyone that has gathered Pears on
this principle know that whilst some fruits part
from the stalk very easily, others on the same
tree evince the greatest reluctance to be taken
off. It is true that there will be a difference in
point of time in the period of ripening of these
two fruits, but that difference may be made of
a more pronounced character if the clinging
fruit wos allowed a few more days on the tree.
This will be a very useful quality where only a
few Pear trees are planted, to keep up a succes¬
sion of fruit. For instance, by adopting this

plan I have had the Marie Louise (one of the
best Autumn Pears) in season for a period of
six weeks, when without some such plan the
fruitwould have gone had in less than three weeks
after the first dish was fit for table. Pears are
fit to gather (and the same rule applies to Apples
also) when the fruits part readily from the stalk
—if, when we take a fruit in the hand and
lift it up, bringing a leverage to bear upon the
stalk when it reaches the horizontal position,
the fruit becomes detached and remains in the
hand, it is sufficient evidence that the fruit is fit
to gather. When the Beeds or pips assume a
dark mahogany tint, and the foliage put on
that ripened appearance which come to them
when tneir work is finished, the fruit may be
gathered. Great care muBt be used, as the least
bruise will result in premature decay. Early Pears
such as Doyenne d’Ete, Williams Bon Chretien,
&c., should be gathered a few days before they are
ripe. The Jargonelle may be had good fresh from
the tree, but all the Bcrgamottes require a fort¬
night in the fruit-room. If late Pears are
gathered too soon the fruits will shrivel, and
be deficient in quality. The best plan to keep
winter Pears is to pack them in drawers or in
some position where the light will be kept from
them. After the first week or so shallow trays
or boxes just deep enough to hold one layer
are very suitable, and they do not occupy much
space, as they may be packed away one above
the other, placing the late fruits in the bottom,
and those which will be required first where they
can be easily got at. The fruit-room should be
frost-proof and equable in temperature. A dry
cellar makes an excellent store-room for fruit.
Some of the late Pears, such as Beurre Ranee,
Ne Plus Muris, Ac., require to be helped by a
higher temperature a week or ten days before
they are required for use—*.«., suppose the
usual time of a fruit’s ripening is in January,
move a few at a time about the beginning of the
month to a warm cupboard in the dwelling-house.
This will bring up the flavour, and reduce the
hard turaipy flesh to an agreeable melting condi¬
tion.

Propagation. .

Not much need be said on this head, further
than to urge also to ensure better attention to it.
as the nearest way of increasing the fruit trees
in the country is by creating a greater interest in
their culture. There are three ways of pro¬
pagating Pear and other fruit trees. First by
seeds which any one can save and plant at any
time. It is so easy when eating a Pear we like
to save the pips, and at the first opportunity

S lant them in a pot of soil, and place the pot,
uly labelled, in a frame, with other similar
experimental efforts. In due time the seeds
will grow, and as the season advances the young
Pear-trees should be planted in a nursery lino
in the experimental bed. In a couple of years
or bo they will be strong enough for grafting or
budding any old favourite kina upon, or if pre¬
ferred they may be transplanted and left to
fruit, with the hope of getting a new and im¬
proved kind. Very many good fruits have been
raised in this haphazard way, though the really
scientific way would be to grow the trees in pots
in an orchard house and fertilize the blossoms
artificially, at the same time taking effectual
steps to keep all other agents away. The next
as to grafting. When the stocks are as thick as
one’s thumb they may be grafted, which is a very
simple operation, requiring only one thing to bo
borne constantly in mind, that the bark of the
stock and scion must meet ou at least one side, or
there can be no unity. Standard trees may either
be grafted standard high, or the grafts may be
put on close to the ground, and the stem formed
of the first effort of the graft. Those who have
had no experience in grafting may acquire
dexterity in the work by practising upon com¬
mon trees and shrubs, in order to get the right
idea of fitting the two cut surfaces together.
Whip-grafting is the best system to adopt, and
consists in cutting the head off the stock in a
sligh tly slanting direction ; cutting another thick
slice about one and a half to two inches long
from thf *$* of, jfcbf. ^]-

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

102

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Mat 10,1884.

the graft to it by cutting a corresponding slice
from its side. The knife must be sharp, and it
is important that the stock be in advance of the
scion. The buds of the stock should be just
bursting, showing the sap is in active motion,
but the scion may be only just a little biton the
alert. The scions should have been selected
when the trees were pruned in winter, and laid
in half their depth in moist earth in a shady
border on the north side of a wall or fence. The
grafts should be tied in and clayed as soon as
the operation is performed, and it is a good plan,
where it can be conveniently done, to form a
ridge of earth round the row of grafted stocks
to prevent the clay from cracking. This can be
easily done when the stocks are grafted near
the ground.

Budding Pear Trees is more practised now
than it was years ago, and the trees originated
by this method are equal to, if not superior to
grafted trees. The work is done in summer,
when the young wood is in a suitable condition,
in the same manner as Roses are budded. There
is yet another kind of grafting, which is per¬
formed in autumn, and owes its origin to the
French cultivators, who are very expert in the
pruning and training of fruit trees. Some people
say it is the climate which brings them success.
But that iB rather begging the question, I think,
though of course I admit the climate of the
south of France is better adapted for fruit¬
growing than are these islands, but the grafting
we are referring to consists in transferring the
fruit buds from a fertile tree and grafting them
into the branches of any tree deficient in fruit
buds. It is a very tedious job to do on a large
scale, and for that reason I do not think it will
ever become popular in England—still, the thing
is feasible enough. It should be done early in
autumn, as soon as the fertile character of the
buds is fairly established.

Varieties.

For Walls. —Bergamotte Esperen, Beurre d’
Aremberg, Beurre de l’Assomption, Beurre dc
Ranee, Beurre Superfine, British Queen, Brown
Beurre, Chaumantel, Doyenne du Cornice,
E&ster Beurre, Gansel’s Bergamotte, General
Tottleben, Glou Morceau, Huvshes Prince Con¬
sort, Jargonelle, Josephine de Malines, Marie
Louise d’Uccle, Passe Crassanne, Passe Colmar,
Winter Nells.

1 give above a few kinds that have rather
more need of protection than others. Many of
them will succeed on the Quince, as pyramids
in a sheltered situation. Of course all Pears
will succeed against a wall; but as in most
gardens the wall space is limited, all that can
be grown as standards or pyramids should be so
cultivated.

For Standards and Large Spreading
Pyramids on Pear Stock.— Jargonelle, Bon
Chretien (Williams), Beurre de Amanlis, Aston
Town, Beurre de Arigon, Beurre Diel, Beurre
Bachelier, Beurre de Capeaumont, Beurre
Hardy, Bishop’s Thumb, Duchess de Angou-
lcine, Jeane de Witte, Louis Bon of Jersey,
Marie Louise, Knights Monarch, White
Doyenne, -Pitmaston Duchess, Ne plus Muris,
Seckle, Durondcau, Summer Beurre d’Arem-
berg, Vicar of Winkfield, Uvedale’s St. Germain,
Suffolk Thorn.

For Pyramids on Quince Stocks. —Baronne
de Melo, Bergamotte Esperen, Beurre d’Anjou,
Beurre Bachelier, Beurre de Capeaumont, Beurre
Diel, Conseiller de la Ceeur, Doyenne Boussach,
Doyenne du Comice, Duchess d’Angouleme,
General Tottleben, Louise Bon of Jersey, Marie
Louisse d’Uccle, Van de Weyer Bates, White
Doyenne, Ben Chretien (Williams).

ROSES.

Roses and Rose elections.— I beg to
inform Mr. Phillips that Marshal Niel is not a
Tea Rose. It is a Noisette. I fail to find
Princess of Wales mentioned in either Paul’s,
Cranston’s, Cant’s, or Turner’s catalogues. It
is not a Tea. I believe it is one of Bennett’s
Hybrids. Louis van Houtte is a Hybrid Per-

S itual. In another paragraph on treatment of
oses, Mr. Phillips says:—“Do not apply
stimulating ton dressings or liquid manure to
Roses. ” I will only content myself by saying
this is contrary to my experience, as well as
that of moat Rose growers. — W. Taylor.

-In making my selections last week of the

12 be8t Tea yRdses for an^rifnateur to grow

Digitized by ^ ^ ^

.king my selections last
\ yRdses for an alnate

Go gTe

or exhibit, I was sorry to omit an old and tried
favourite in MadAme Willcrmoz, creamy white
with a yellow centre. H this and two others (for
variety sake, viz., Beauty of Glazewood,
striped and flaked scarlet, and Duchess of
Edinburgh, deep crimson) could be added to
the other 12, the collection would contain
some beauties of the first water. In entering
upon the still more difficult task of selecting
the best 24 Hybrid Perpetuals, I feel some
diffidence. Could I have stretched the 24 into
43 or 72 it would have been far easier ; but as
it is my intention to deal more with old and tried
Roses than with those of later introduction,
many of which bid fair to be grand acquisitions
to this class, I will at once proceed to name
them:— Light Colours; 1st, La France; 2nd,
Mdlle. Eugenie Verdier ; 3rd, Mdme. Gabriel
Luizod, Baroness Rothschild, Marguerite de St.
Armand, Captain Christy. Whites: 1st, Boule
de Ncige ; 2nd, Merveille do Lyon ; 3rd, Reine
Blanche. Carmines and Rose Odour: 1st,
Marquise de Castellaine ; 2nd, Emily Laxton ;
3rd, Countess of Oxford, Countess of Rosebery,
Magna Charta. Red and Crimson: 1st, Marie
Beauman ; 2nd, A. K. Williams ; 3rd, Mdlle.
Marie Rady, Alfred Colomb. Dark Hoses : 1st,
Charles Lefebvre ; 2nd, General Jacquemont ;
3rd, Mrs. Jowett, Louis van Houtte, Prince
Camille de Rohan, Horace Vernet. Next week
a few remarks on above and a short selection
out of other classes. —William Phillips,
Hoole , Chester.

INDOOR PLANTS.

Lapageria shoots dying.— I have known
the young shoots of Lapagerias to die off
through the effects of the sun in the spring
coining with full, unobstructed force upon them
where the plants have been excited into growth
during winter in a house with some fire heat.
Where this lias been the case the young growth
cannot stand the full force of the sun. If the
plant in question was turned out last January,
especially if planted on the sunny side of the
conservatory and has made growth freely, par¬
ticularly if a little extra heat has been used,
the young shoots should be shaded from the
l. In all cases Lapagerias ought to be planted
at the shady side of the house in which they are
grown ; if on a roof they do best on the north
side, where the sun does not strike them fully.
Under any conditions I should advise a little
shade until the growth gets matured. If air is
admitted, so as to come directly in contact with
the plant during such cold, cutting winds as we
have had, it is quite possible that mischief
might be done.

Daffodils in pots. —It is a matter of surprise
that Daffodils have not long ere this been added
to our indoor bulbs. They have frequently
been mentioned as suitable for forcing, but they
have not hitherto been generally employed for
that purpose. They arc no novelty in April or
May in pots, but we have seen the smaller
varieties, including N. Bulbocodium, in flower
in February and earlier in a small amateur’s
vinery years ago, at which season they are a
treasure. The slight assistance they need in
the way of heat can hardly be called forcing;
and yet the Daffodils are but one of the many
species of hardy plants that might be used for
the winter and early spring decoration of our
conservatories and rooms. Mostly all our
spring and early summer flowers force freely—
Primroses in variety, Arabia, Candytufts,
Litho8permums, Wallflowers, Stocks, Irises,
Scillas, Forget-me-nots, &c., and afford a rare
reserve for those who like to have early flowers
at the least cost.

A Good Plant for a Cool Greenhouse.

—Acrophyllum venosum is a hard-wooded Aus¬
tralian plant of great beauty, but not in general
cultivation. Its white Spirea-like flowers are set
off to great advantage by the crown of triple
bronze-coloured leaflets which top each flower
spike, and it is especially valuable from being
amenable to cool house treatment, and blooming
at the present early season. It is a plant requir¬
ing particular attention to drainage, as it is soon
destroyed by stagnant moisture at the root and
especially about the collar, and should in con¬
sequence never be potted too deeply. Like
other New Holland hard-wooded plants, it
succeeds beet in a light sandy peat soil, and
young plants must be potted on os soon es the

roots reach the sides of the pot. The last shift
may be given not later than July, and xhe
thoroughly established in the blooming pot, h
may be placed out of doors in & ahdtr*
position for a few weeks to ripen its wood; lit
it is necessary, during this period, to protect n
from heavy drenching rains, which are espe¬
cially injurious. After blooming, it should i*
cut in and kept close for a week or two, wbea r.
will soon show signs of breaking, and who
growth has fairly recommenced it should b t r-
I>otted for the next season’s bloom. Thia is u
admirable plant, much to be recommended v
those who are seeking for good and distia.:
subjects for the cool greenhouse to bloom i:
April and May.—L.K.D.

Genetyllis (Hedaroma) tulipifere.-
This free-blooming, hard-wooded plant, whic:
might be popularly named the Tulip-bu*h. t
not so often met with as it deserves to 1*. Is
is a native of the Swan River district of Wester
Australia, and is almost hardy. A nearly &1^
and equally fine species, G. Hookeri (other**
known as G. macrostegia) has, in fact, wiu
stood the winter without protection in the L
of Wight. When out of bloom the plant b
somewhat the appearance of the Box-krai
Eugenia, but during April and May itiscoTm-i
with flowers which are exceedingly nnmeirEi
and are produced at the end of every link
branch. These are singularly handsome, o*ik
to the large floral bracts or involucre— ofta 1
mistaken for the flower itself—which as- |
pletely conceal the true flower. In G.
tulipifera these bracts are cream-colmire-
striped and dashed with rich crimson, and, s
spite of its specific name, the flowers bear*

G reater resemblance, perhaps, to those d
.apageria l>oth in form and texture than to th
Tulip. In the other species—G. Hookeri-t^
leaves are narrower, and the coloured bract* in I
of a bright red, and though somewhat small"
they are produced even more abundantly. Bill
are desirable plants, easy of culture, and ns
tinning many weeks in bloom. They thrive
a compost of good sandy peat, to which s&-
lumps of charcoal may be added with advanb:
They are especially adapted for those who
to grow distinct and handsome plants, giro
abundance of bloom under cool greenb:^
treatment, which suits their requirements
better than strong heat. The hardier &
treatment the brighter will be the colouriDf <f
the flowers, which are otherwise apt to beeo£>*
dingy. G. tulipifera forms a good and shafdt
exhibition plant to bloom in May.—L. K. ft

11433. —Treatment of Bouvardias.
usually cut back Bouvardias after the flower^
time is past, and put them in a warm hoi* »
make new growth. The young shoots ij
taken off and propagated as cuttings; tht *
plants being gradually inured to a cooler wr-
perature. In May they may be placed in *
cold frame, and grown there during the surt: ",
removing the lights from the frame cdUm
during fine weather. Bouvardias alsosu «
well planted out in light soil and sheltered i:
cutting winds. They may be potted np*j
flowering in the autumn before the nights
too cold. Your plants must have been
to cold winds, which will cause the leaves to ini
off.—J. D. E.

11430. —Cyclamens after bloomicH
The following method of treatment of Cycjj
mens I have found excellent, viz.Gradw
decrease the watering, and put the plant ns
cold frame or window, as the leaves fade, j*
lay the pots on their sides, where safe
vermin, out of doors. At the close of sonfl»
repot in soil of equal parts of leaf moaU
peat, well-rotted manure, silver sand, aj
loam. Pots to be used two or three tiro* 5 8
size of tuber, which should have its sad*
slightly raised above the level of the
Perfect drainage is very important
layer of compressed moss over the crocs* I
good. After repotting place in a cold fr&®*|
window, but little water being given tul l
first few leaves are well developed; •“
gradually increase.—L. S.

11438.— Young Primulas. -Presnn*
that they are Chinese Primulas, you ni “^
soon as they have formed the second leal aa
the seed leaves, prick them out about six P »
in a 3-in. pot, use fine, rather rich sandy
composed of loam, leaf mould, and decaf
manure. Drain the pete well Keep

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

gardening illustrated

a cold frame after this near the glass.

They

„ --,--some

Shade lightly from hot sunshine.

- * on as they require it. They will
in 5-in. pots.—J. D. E.

Disease in Pelargoniums.—

1 “ spot,” and is

11367.—Tuberous Begonias for bed¬
ding. —If before your Begonias had started into
growth the tubers were 3 inches in diameter,
they may be planted out 1 foot apart each way ;
if smaller than that the distance should be
reduced to 9 inches. Do not coddle your plants
at any stage ; a cold frame is all that is needed
to afford them protection. You will find they
do much better under cool treatment than when
grown in warm houses.—C.

in perfect health in an ordinary house in a
town, he is fit only to be trusted with those
plants which are constructed with string,
feather, or cast-iron. These, with an occa¬
sional coat of paint, will stand almost anything;
but without the paint they are not so lasting
as a Chamserops Palm. A good house plant is
the common garden Yucca, this being quite as
handsome and more hardy than any Drac®na;
probably more so than the Aspidistra lurida
variegata, but it has not the character and

beauty of a Palm, and is therefore inferior._

Thos. Fletcher, Warrington.

do not grow v<
patience, f
rot the plants
flower well in i

11429.—Dis _

The disease alluded to is called “ spot,” and is
caused sometimes by over watering, at other
times from want of fresh air. Well-managed
collections do not suffer from it. In the first
place the Pelargonium

w requires that the pots be

> and that tne material be good,
loam, with some decayed cow
leaf mould added to it; also some
oal may do good, and can do no
harm. Keep the plants near the glass, and
admit air freely, but avoid exposure to cold east
winds. The disease does not usually appear
until the cold damp days of autumn or winter.
Use rain-water, not colder than the atmosphere
of the house, and do not apply it too freely in
winter. They may not require water oftener
than onco in ten days. Keep the plants quite
free from green fly, by fumigating them once a

Veil drained,
sweet, turfv
manure, and

AN ARTIST’S BOUQUET.

Hans Makart, a celebrated painter at Vienna,
first arranged the bouquet of which the annexed
is an illustration for his studio :—It is composed
of Palm leaves “ Phoenix dactilifora ” and P.
tenuis, ** Chama?rops humilis” and arborea;
“ Latania borbonica ” being also suitable for the

11389 and 11413.— Birds and Peas.— I have
tried at feast a dozen different contrivances for
preventing the ravages of the house sparrow in
the kitchen garden of a suburban villa; but I

Lapageria alba and Rosea would also succeed.
All the British and North American Ferns would
succeed. A list of varieties and species was
given in Gardening a few weeks ago.
Camellias do woll planted out.—J. D. E.

11420.— Plants for shady houses. —You
can have Ferns, Veronicas, Escallonias, and

sad wood with soft soap and water.—J. D. E.

11443.—Nicotiana affinis.—“M. C. H. ”
asks for information as to this plant. If required
for bedding purposes (for which it is well suited),
the seed should have been sown in the early
part of April in a temperature of 60 deg., pot-
tine off the plants singly, and keeping them close
and shaded for a few days after the operation, if

required for pot culture. F _ L-tm 1 _1

any time in the latter end of May, or early
June, will be soon enough to sow

and fairly rich vegetabl .

being performed, as rec
mouths. They should

Weak liquid manure w.. l¥001 _

in flowering. The plant may be also propagated

yields excellent plants. This species, however,
u not so well suited for pot culture as the

For winter flowering

. j / if v .

j in

any ordinary
lit it ; potting
juired, by the late summer
be in 6-inch pots at least.
r ill materially assist them

w * „-1— r . jpagated

Irom cuttings, but seed is far less trouble, and
. j This species, however,

■nailer flowered N. undulata (Sanveoleus).—

E. Jxkkins.

11439.—Celandine.— If it is the Lesser
bwandine (Ranunculus ficaria) with which
A. A* W.’s” shrubbery is overrun, I am
amid the only remedy is to dig up the plants
m they appear, and to destroy them by bura-
“E*H. W.” examines the roots he
find them of a tuberous nature, not unlike
*“ 0#e the Dahlia. They have an extraordi-

An Artist’s Bouquet.

have found them all—paraffin oil, red lead, twigs,
papers suspended from strings, networks of
thread, and even garden netting—perfectly use¬
less. This spring, three days after the peas
were sown, the sparrows had holes dug all along
the rows, to discover, no doubt, if the peas
were sufficiently soft yet to suit their taste.
Birdlime was suggested as a cure, but its proper
application seemed at first so difficult, and the
trouble connected with handling it so great, that
for awhile I gave up the idea of ever being able
to turn it to account. However, being desirous
of trying the experiment, although without any
very definite idea of how to proceed, I got six¬
penny worth of birdlime from the chemist’s shop
in a ointment box. To guard the hands from
the disagreeable stickiness of the article, I
wrapped round the side of the box a piece of
clean thick paper, and then opened the top of
it with an old, rusty, narrow-pointed chisel. I
found that after a little practice, by dipping the
point of the chisel into the birdlime, I could
take out any quantity I chose, coiled round the
end of the chisel —very much as treacle can be
lifted out of a pot with a stick—and that with-

equally severe treatment. There are many
Palms which will certainly fail sooner or later,
and amongst these may be mentioned Cocos
Weddelliana, Areca lutea, Thrinax elegans, and
Latania borbonica ; but after twenty years’ ex¬
perience I can safely say that if yonr oorre-

I

104

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[May 10, 1884

r>r the outside of the box. I then cut a small
•tiff branching twig from a Hawthorn tree, and
having lopped off the soft ends, I applied the

S oint of the chisel to the bottom of the twig
eld in the left hand, and I found that it was
not at all difficult to wind a continuous thin
string of the birdlime at any distance I chose,
round every branch of the twig from one end to
the other. After cutting and smearing in this
manner the requisite number of twigs, I laid
them along one of the rows of Peas. The next
day I found that one of the twigs had been
moved from its place, and that a hole had been
scratched in the ground as formerly. The
twig w’as immediately replaced and the hole
filled up and levelled over. On the following
day two twigs were removed from their places,
but no holes had been scratched in the ground,
and since then the row of Peas has never been
disturbed in the least at any point, and the
sparrows, so far as we have observed, have
never ventured nearer it than the respectful
distance of about 4 feet. No doubt those
Bparrows which had acted as pioneers in re¬
moving the twigs would be put to some little
inconvenience for a day or two ; but as the
gentle warning was probably received by them
on the tips of some of their feathers, they are
not likely to be much the worse for it. It took
about half an hour, and about the tenth part
of the box of birdlime to do a row of Peas 30
feet long, and I do not think this will be con¬
sidered too great an expenditure of either money
or time and trouble for a small garden where
the vegetables are grown more perhaps for

S le&sure and recreation than for profit. The
.adishes and Cresses and other small seeds are
protected in the same manner.—P. R.

- I have found birds very troublesome to

Peas and several other kinds of seeds and tried
many remedies to keep them off, but find black
cotton stretched over the rows (say three or
four lines of it) has a certain effect of keeping
them off. Be sure to put black, as the idea is
they do not see it and get entangled. For Peas
saved for seed, run round and round the Pea
sticks with cotton, and no birds will touch the
pods.— Henry White, Wateringbury.

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK.
Glasshouses.

The earliest started Epacrises and soft-
wooded Ericas should now be removed to a cool
pit, where they will enjoy the morning sun up
to 10 a. m. Syringe them freely during bright
weather, and damp the walls and floor of the
pit frequently, so as to keep the atmosphere
cool ana moist. Early-forced Azaleas that have
made good growth, and that are now set with
bloom, must be gradually inured to cool treat¬
ment, preparatory to being removed to shady
positions outside. A few of each kind of the
hardier fine-foliaged plants should now be potted
on for conservatory decoration at the end of
the summer. The best for this purpose are Zea
japonica variegata, Arundo Donax variegata,
Ferdinanda eminens, Meliantlius major, Ricinus
Gibsoni, &c. Give them a liberal rootrun in
rich fibrous compost, and abuudant supplies of
water. A deep, cool pit will be the most suit¬
able place in which to grow them during the
earlier summer months. A good sowing of
dwarf Scabious should now be made in 8£-in.
pots. After sowing, place the pots in a cold
frame, and gradually inure the young seedlings
-when up to full exposure during the summer.
Plungo the pots, when outside, and never allow
them to suffer from want of water.

Show and Fancy Pelargoniums will now be
fast pushing up their flowers, and will be
assisted by clear manure water. For home
decoration it is neither necessary nor advisable
to tie them out so regularly as when they are
intended for exhibition; use only sufficient
sticks and ties to support the plants and prevent
them having an untidy appearance. For
summer and autumn decoration nothing is more
useful for greenhouses than the zonal varieties
of Pelargoniums. Keep these near the glass so
as to induce short, stout growth, and do not
allow them to become exhausted with flowering
at the present time, as they will be much more
useful after the show and fancy sorts are over.
Pot on young plants of BalsamB, giving them
soil well enriched irith agood sprinkling of sand
Digitized by\ QQlc

I and one-fifth of leaf mould, in which all quick-
crowing plants of this description root freely.
Late herbaceous Calceolarias will now becoming
into bloom. See that these are free from aphides,
or every flower will be crippled. These are
gross-feeding plants and delight in manure
water, bearing it stronger than many plants.
Kalosanthes, which are easily grown and are
excellent decorative plants, will now require
sticks and ties to support their heavy heads of
. flower that are fast coming to maturity. They
! are subject to green-fly, which gets into the
’ points of the shoots and completely spoil the
flowers, but are not easily detected in these
plants, except by the yellow hue they give to
the leaves. Dip in Tobacco-water, or smoke any
that may be affected.

Flower garden.

Annuals. —Thin out carlv-sown annuals ; the
real merit of many beautiful annuals are rarely
seen through being often sown in out-of-the-way
places, under the drip, shade, and impoverishing
influence of the roots of deciduous trees. If,
perchance, they happen to get an open situation,
where they might have a chance of showing
their true character, they are too often allowed
only a fourth of the room they require. Let
every species and variety have enough room to
grow to its full natural size, by which means
the flowers will individually be much larger,
and the duration of the plants flowering will be
considerably extended. Finish the Bowing of all
kinds of annuals in positions where they
are to flower, and let any biennials, such as
Sweet Williams, Canterbury Bells, Foxgloves,
Dianthus, Myosotis, &c., in seed beds be picked
off in nursery beds as soon as strong enough to
handle. Any Gladiolus bulbs or Dahlia roots
not yet planted should be attended to without
delay. The miniature bouquet or Pompone
Dahlias are very pretty for beds or lwruera,
and also for furnishing cut flowers. The old
blue Salvia patens, too, should not be neglected;
it makes a beautiful bed mixed with the straw-
coloured Calceolaria amplexicaulis. The main
stock of Calceolarias may now be put out.

Flower beds. —Where flower beds are filled
in winter with dwarf shrubs, it is advisable to
let the edgings consist as much of hardy plants
as possible, in order that as the tender plants
get cut by frosts they may bo gradually replaced
by weather-proof subjects. In this way a
general simultaneous clearance, the bane of
modern flower gardening, is avoided, and a
gradual transition of floral or leaf beauty from
season to season is the result. What are known
as sub-tropical plants are generally somewhat
tender, and their planting may with advantage
be deferred for a short time ; if possible, the site
selected for them should be somewhat sheltered,
as they consist principally of species with large
and ornamental leaves, which are apt to bo dis¬
figured if exposed too early to cold and bois¬
terous winds. Such plants should be of con¬
siderable size when planted, and should have
been gradually inured to exposure in the open
air. They should bo planted in beds of rich
or highly-manured soil, and should be abun¬
dantly supplied with water during dry weather,
in order to induce a rapid and luxuriant de¬
velopment of foliage, which constitutes their
chief beauty.

Climbers. —These should be pruned, cleaned,
nailed, and mulched. With very little care or
trouble, walls and fences in towns might l>e
made extremely pleasing to the eye during
summer. Few really good evergreens are
available for the purpose ; one, however,
which is not sufficiently used is the Euonymus;
this is a most excellent subject for covering
walls ; it grows freely and withstands smoke.
Some of the shrubbery Honeysuckles may also
be made available for the same purpose, espe¬
cially on open fences, and when mixed with
Roses the effect is strikingly pretty. Climbing
Convolvuli:ses and Nasturtiums will also assist
in beautifying unsightly structures, whilst in
out-of-the-way corners Scarlet Runner Beans
may be used with advantage.

Lawns. —Grass should be rolled about three
days before it is mown, and again directly after¬
wards ; edges of beds and verges should bo
neatly clipped with shears or cut with the edg¬
ing iron. Any subsidence in newly-made plots
should be at once remedied. In every case
where it is necessary to lift and relay turf, Lj^|

mediately it is down it should be thickly cot tin!
I with fine rich soil; the unsightliness of this far
a few days will be amply rewarded by the Gas
being saved from burning, and by its become:
green in a much shorter time than when it b
i left bare, as is too often the case; moreover, it
fills up any insterstices which may lie left, at,
acts as a fertiliser. It is also advisable ta
• sow about two bushels of seed of fine lawn Gras.
: per acre at the same time, lightly raking ore:
the surface ; it may then be left for a few dap,
I raked over again, and thoroughly rolled ; tho
treated a good lawn may be formed even in dr;
weather.

Roses.—O n high walls, where the «yring
cannot be effectually used on Roses, the garde:
engine should be regularly employed, never
allowing insects to get ahead. In addition to
this, the roots should be well supplied sits
stimulants. Roses on the walls of dwelling*
have often a very limited extent of borderspar*
that admits of being dug and manured; cce
sequently, it becomes necessary to do all tints
possible to invigprate them. They are extreme!;
fond of manure water, and will bear it apptai
stronger than many plants, and in no aituatirr
can it be used with better effect than to such
plants as here described. By liberal applica¬
tions of it, and keeping the heads of the plant!
clean in the way recommended, Roses on valb
can be kept so as to maintain a healthy appear
ance, with a succession of flowers, until &
autumn.

Fruit.

Vines. —Late Vines will now or shortly to
in flower, and to make assurance doubly sur?,
frequently tap the rods with tho hand, in order
to disperse the pollen. Muscat Hamburgh.
Mrs. Pince, Muscat of Alexandria, and Lady
Downes, if gone over separately with a camelV
hair pencil charged with pollen from other
varieties will not only set more freely, but will
swell more evenly. Take off all superfluou
bunches before they are in flower ; what arelt a .
will set more freely, and the laterals should abo
l>e stopped at the same time, as growth shouli
continue unrestricted at the time of flowerm;
If the borders be in auv way dry, water liberally
with warm water. Grapes colouring then-
have free ventilation during all weathers,
if dull fires must be kept up, high night tea
peratures should be avoided. If there be icy
danger of the border getting dry, do not scray*
to water, even though the Grapes are rip*,
such watering will not harm them if abumlaa^
of air be afterwards given to carry off excess
moisture. Outside borders that have been art
ficiallv protected should now have the coverit|
material removed, the soil pointed over, ad to
prevent oraeking, a coating 2 in. thick of horse
manure should be applied. Where shutter.* f ■
other water-tight coverings have been us*
watering may be requisite ; therefore the bor¬
ders should be examined, for, though the prweai
crop may have finished perfectly, it should be
remembered that next season’s fruit is* » 19
speak, manufactured this season; and if the*
be any lack of water now the consequence* *dl
be apparent enough next season, inasmuch m
tendril-like “ shows" will be produced in lieu opj
well-developed ones.

Outdoor Fruit.

Strawberries will soon be in full bios* 1 '
and should be mulched and, if dry, w &tcr r|
forthwith, as a severe check from drought at w
present critical stage would render the bloss^
abortive. If for exhibition or any other $p° c *
purpose extra fine fruit be desired, the
stems ought to be thinned out now, and ^
fruit also as soon as set. Make new plants^
with the plants that have l>een forced,
mode of renewing beds we have practised ■

J r cars, and by it have invariably hadfi D ***l
leavy crops of fruit the following year.
arc allowed to remain a second year only. 1
as soon as they have fruited are trenched m. .
else spaded off, and the ground cropped
Broccoli. Deep trenching and high manuruf
plenty of space—30 in. from plant to plant eS *l
way—firm planting, and abundant supp^j
water are the essentials of good culture. ' v -“
planting out loosen the matted roots * lt
blunt stick, and pick off all old fruit stem* &
runners.

Insect pests. —•As a preventive affair
on Cherry trees syringe opce a wevl with

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Mat 10, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

105

d* ; but if a lodgment of black aphis—the
>sfc difficult to destroy—has been made, more
tlical measures will be necessary ; in such
se Tobacco-water or Tobacco-powder will
ove the more effective means of riddance,
•een-fly is never difficult to destroy, and but
rely puts in an appearance if the trees are
casionally syringed with soapy water. Other
sect pests that are likely now to be trouble-
me are the Apricot grub and Gooseberry
terpillar ; for the former there is virtually no
meay except to pick them off, or destroy them
r pinching the leaf in which they wrap them-
Ives; and for the latter fresh slaked lime
•rinkled thinly over the bushes, and more
lickly on the ground, soon expels them.

Wall fruit trees. —The disbudding of
caches and Nectarines should now be com-
eted; blistered leaves and badly blighted
loots should be picked off, and the others laid
i with Hazel or Privet twigs, secured by the
Mining wires or between the branches. The
de, or what are generally called sub-laterals,
f the new shoots should be persistently stopped
j pinching, and the same must be done in the
ise of any main shoots that are taking the lead

be lined out into Celery trenches or be dug or enough. As soon as the surface gets sufficiently
trenched, according as it is required for the dry, ply the hoo on all vacant spaces ; not

forthcoming crop.

Vegetable Marrows. —If the weather bo
warm Vegetable Marrows may now be put out
in the open ground. See that the plants are
thoroughly prepared by gradual hardening in a
cold frame, with plenty of air previously, or
they will be some time before they make any
progress. If hand-lights can be placed over
them for a fortnight it will much accelerate their
growth, tilting them at the opposite side from
which the wind blows in the daytime, and
closing down at night. The ground should be
made very rich for quick, rank-growing plants
of this description. Sow more seed in a hotbed
or greenhouse for planting out next month.

Tomatoes should now be placed in a cold
frame with plenty of air during the day, so as
to have them well hardened before planting ;
where they are turned out whilst in a tender
state, even if the ensuing weather be fine, they
frequently remain dormant for two or three
weeks, which seriously interferes with the
quantity of produce, as if the growth be at all

only is this disturbance of the soil desirable for
the destruction of weeds, but it is also a means
of helping the ground to retaiu its moisture—
a matter of great importance in dry situations.
Thin out the early crops of Spinach, leaving
the plants 6 in. apart.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

OUTDOOR GRAPE VINES.

At a time when the Phylloxera has done and
is doing so much damage in vineyards, the
following account of a Chasselas de Fontaine¬
bleau (Royal Muscadine) Vine, at Roche-sur-
Yon, whose fertility has been a matter of
surprise to many cultivatiors, may not be with¬
out interest. It belongs to a shoemaker, who
has furnished the following particulars concern¬
ing it. As will be seen from the accompanying
| illustration, taken from a photograph, it is
planted in the pathway in front of the house ;
the surface soil near the stem is dug up twice a
year and mulched with horse manure. All the

Prolific Outdoor Vine at Roohe-sur-You.

it the risk of an uneven development of wood
aver all portions of the tree. Well-trained
1'luuu* and Pears are also ready for pinching,
but the foliage affords such excellent protection
to fruit that, pending the uncertainty of the
weather, it will be desirable to stop but few,
remove but little of the breast-wood at
present ; so a few of the more forward only should
yet be operated on. A good washing with the
garden engine would do immense good by re¬
moving the remains of flowers and common
ipiders’ webs.

Vegetables.

i Potato planting and seed sowing, such as
wrots, Beet, Broccoli, and winter greens
ftoerally, if not yet done, should have early
mtention, as should also the sowing of French
and Scarlet Runners; the latter should
k sown in shallow trenches, to admit of liberal
^terings in the event of drought setting in.
*hfe earliest sown Spinach ought now to be fit
gather; therefore the remains of the winter
bpuiach may be dug or trenched in, when the
Sttoaod will be suitable for Beet, Peas, Broccoli,
'^ Cauliflowers. In order that no unnecessary
“iuuation of the soil may take place, the old
r 8 * the Brussels Sprouts, Kales, or Broccoli
wwuld be cleared off as soon a? the produce- is
**1, and as toon os practicable Jetjtui jjryiJi^d

checked, most of the warm weather is over
before the first fruits are ripe.

Late Peas. —Peas for late use should now
be sown, the most open position in the garden
should be chosen, and if the rows are at long
distances—say 36 ft. apart—with the intervals
occupied by some low-growing crop, a better
chance will be afforded them of being benefited
by the wind, which is unfavourable to mildew.
The ground should be well and deeply manured,
so that the roots may have plenty to sustain
them through intervals of dry weather; they
should also be sown thinly. Any approved
tall kind, such as Emperor of the Marrows or
Ne Plus Ultra, will be found to succeed the
best.

The earliest sown Cauliflowers and Cabbages
will shortly be large enough for planting out.
If the soil in which they are planted is at all
dry, give a good soaking before taking them up,
by which means they will lift with plenty of
roots, and receive proportionately little check.

Early Turnips will now require thinning, also
Carrots, as soon as these are strong enough in
the tops to draw. It may be taken as a rule
that any crop which requires thinning is bene¬
fited by this being done as soon as the plants
are large enough to handle. Early Carrots,
4 in. apart at the first thinning, will have space

previous year’s wood is spurred in as closely as
possible, an operation which is performed
between the 1st and 15th of April. The new
shoots are stopped at the second leaf from the
base, and during the whole of the year all the
shoots which grow too large are taken off, in
order that they may not rob the fruit. Thus
managed, in 1882 this Vine yielded 2,115 fairly-
sized bunches of Grapes, and in order to en
courage so heavy a crop to ripen early, a good
many of the surplus leaves and shoots are taken
off in July, so as to expose the bunches more
directly to sun heat.

The Gooseberry Caterpillar.—1 am
often asked what I do to destroy this pest, and
do not think it is generally known that early
attention to the trees may prevent all need of
gishurst or other like applications. It is a
very common fault of elementary works to tell
us what to do without informing us how to do
it; and many gardening books speak of the im¬
portance of destroying the eggs, but I do not
remember to have seen any direction for finding
them. But this is easily done as soon as the
youug caterpillars make their escape. Very
shortly, if the weather becomes" warm, on look¬
ing carefully into the-t rees, « c shall .probably_
see, on the lower brunches, leaves-very neatly

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

gardening illustrated

106

perforated by lines of pinholes very similar
to those on postage stamps, but perhaps better
made; and it will be noticed that these
lines of perforations run alongside the ribs of
the leaves. On turning the leaves over, it will
be found that every little hole has its minute
caterpillar busily eating its way through the
leaf, while close by, under the rib itself, will be
found the egg whence it has escaped, with pro¬
bably many more yet entire ; and if the branch
on which the perforated leaf is found is turned
up, eggs will probably be found on other leaves
also, the number of eggs on a leaf varying from
a dozen to thirty or forty. When I first noticed
these leaves, about three years ago, I picked off,
with the aid of young eyes and fingers, in two
days, over 400 of them. Since then we have
had no such severe attack as this, but there has
been no year in which I have not destroyed
many leaves ; sometimes, however, so clearing
the trees that I have been unable to find a
specimen to show a friend. Of course the trees
will want frequent watching, but the work is
clean and easy, and with gloved hands ladies can
do it easily, and sharp-eyed children even letter
still. On my showing a friend one of these
leaves, he said, “ Well, if I find any such in my
garden I will soon get rid of them and on my
asking how, he replied, “ By bribery. I will
offer my children a trifle for every score of
leaves they bring me, and I shall soon have
none left. It may be reckoned among the
advantages of having Gooseberries as pyramids,
a plan I have adopted with all cuttings for
many years, that from their standing so high
from the ground, and having no undergrowth,
they are less liable to caterpillars than those
left untrimmed, and that when attacked the
infected leaves are easily found. Can any
readers confirm an impression I have that Black
Currant trees have a protective power over
Gooseberries standing next to them ? We know
that the fly will attack Red or YV'hite Currants
but will not touch Black Currants, and I fancy
that the strong smell of the latter drives them
from neighbouring trees—certainly two of my
trees so placed have been singularly free from
caterpillars. My attention was drawn to this
matter by an American gentleman, who saw
that a bed of Cabbages showed evidence of the
caterpillar with the exception of one row which
stood next to a bed of Carrots, and expressed
his opinion that the immunity was due to the
smell of the Carrots, adding that in America,
where Tomatoes were grown as bushes, it was
usual to plant them among Cabbages from a
belief in their protective power.—YV. M. C.,
Cla Ion.

11416.— Heat for Melons.— A width of
2 feet would be quite sufficient for a Melon bed.
The rubble should be about 6 inches higher
than the arrangement of pipes for bottom heat,
and it is well to have about 18 inches of
soil over the rubble. Before putting the soil
in the house, it is a good plan to cut some turf
about 3 inches thick and lay it over the
drainage, with the grass side downwards. It
is a good plan to have the beds as much as 5
feet wide, if there is much propagating or
seedling raising to be done early in the year.
You can then put in 2 feet of compost for
the Melons, and the 3 feet space may be
filled with fermenting material. The heat from
this pushes on the young Melon plants more
rapidly. If fermenting stable manure is used,
the rank steam must be first thrown off by
evaporation before it is taken into the house.—
J. D. E.

- The pit “ C. H. S.” describes is best as

it is if he could fill the pit with fermenting
manure. Put turfy loam on the manure ; add
plant when danger of burning is past. The
additional heat will prove beneficial to the
plants.—J. E. G.

11446.— Vines bleeding 1 . —To stop this I
have found Thomson’s styptic an unfailing
remedy. Directions for its use are given on the
label, but I find an easy and effective plan is to
place the forefinger on the mouth of the l>ottle,
to tilt it up, and rub into the wound the stuff
adhering to the finger, repeating this once or
twice at the same operation. I do not so dress
the cuts made at the general pruning, but only
such as actually bleed afterwards, and I have
never failed, by the above menus, in stopping
such bleeding at once, however severe it may
have been.—3. MT"^ 1

Digitized by ^jOOSlC

— Apply Thomson’s styptic to the wounds
as soon as the Vines are pruned. If you delay
this until the bleeding begins it will be very
difficult to 8top it. A lengthened experience
confirms the impression that bleeding does not
materially injure the Vines. It might probably
cause the Y^ines to be a few days later in start¬
ing ; but even this is of considerable importance,
and it is as well to prune the Y'iuca as soon as
the leaves and fruit are removed, which will
allow the wounds to dry up, and bleeding will
not take place. —J. D. E.

-Gunpowder will stop the bleeding.—

J. G.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

BERBERIS DARYVINI AND JAPONICA.
These are now in their glory, and when planted
in suitable soils and positions, few of our early
flowering shrubs can surpass or even match
them. Both thrive best in good, rich loamy soil,
thoroughly drained. They are very suitable for
planting in the mixed shrubbery, as well as in
plantations, where they afford excellent covert
and food for pheasants. They also thrive re¬
markably well when planted on well-decomposed
peat bog, especially B. Darwini, which often
attains a large size, and produces great quanti¬
ties of flowers and fruit. If protected from
game with a piece of netting, the seed falls to
the ground w hen ripe and produces a crop of
seedling plants without any trouble. Seedlings,
however, whether self-sown or raised in a seed
bed, should be planted into nursery lines when
they attain a few inches in height, allowing
plenty of room for development, and for weed¬
ing and keeping the ground in proper order.
Yvhen one year in these lines, the stems should
lie cut over in spring a few inches above the sur¬
face of the ground ; ny this means they will pro¬
duce three or four stems in the place of the one
cut down, thus making fine bushy plants either
for ornament or game covert. YY’hen intended
for covert, they may either be mixed up with
others, or planted in the form of groups of dif¬
ferent shapes and sizes, each of which Bhould be
at distances of some 50 yards asunder. But,
whether planted with others, er in groups, care
should be taken not to plant this Berberis in
stiff clay soil, as it not only fails to grow, but
often dies altogether in the course of a few years
after planting. On patches of stiff clay, how¬
ever, the Berberis Aquifolium grow'8 freely, and,
as it is a close bushy evergreen, it also makes
excellent covert. I have lntewise used B. Dar¬
wini in the formation of ornamental hedges, for
which it is well suited ; likewise for training on
old walls and wooden fences where it is desirable
to form a screen to shut out unsightly objects ;
and as it is a rapid grower and easily trained
and kept in proper trim, it is admirably adapted
for such purposes. The merits of B. japonica,
either for covert or ornament, cannot be too
highly appreciated. It is well adapted for
planting as a single specimen on a well-kept
lawn, and in such a situation it generally be¬
comes well furnished and bushy ; it may also be
trained with a single stem in the form of a
standard, which in spring produces pretty yellow
flowers, surrounded by flat shining leaves, thus
producing a striking contrast, which is in no
way lessened when the flowers are shed, and
their place filled up with pretty fruit, consisting
of large berries of a bluish colour, covered with
a bloom which cannot be surpassed, if even
enualled, by that of the finest black Grapes.
YVhen it is desirable to propagate this species,
the berries should be protected by a piece of
netting, in order to keep birds and game from
eating them when they get ripe. My practice
has been to sow the seed as soon as matured,
choosing a piece of well-pulverised ground in a
sheltered place in the nursery for tne purpose.
It should be sown broadcast, and covered lightly
with fine sandy soil, and in winter, should the
weather be severe, the young plants will require
a little protection, as they are liable to be cut
down or thrown out of the ground altogether
by hard frost. YY r hen they attain a height of
5 inches or 6 inches they should be planted out
into nursery lines, allowing plenty of room for
their development; and when they attain a
height of 10 inches or 20 inches they may be
planted out where they are to remain.—B. YV.

Cydonia (Pyrus) japonica. —Of this
well-known hardy shrub there are now soim*

[May 10 , 1881

new and strikingly beautiful varieties,
named atro-purpurea has flowers of the rich
crimson imaginable, many shades deeper th
the colour of the ordinary kind. Anoti-®
called coccinea, is of a glowing cherry i
distinct from any other, and a most men
colour. Then there is the snow-white now<
nivalis, which differs from the old white vi
in its flowers being without the faintest sugre®
tion of colour. These are most valuable &6®
tions to hardy shrubs, and if properly place®
would have a fine effect. Like most oth®
flowering shrubs, the Japanese Quince abbo®
l>eing crammed into a crowded shrubbery, ufl
too often is. A group of these beautiful®
coloured varieties, placed in an open position <
a lawn or on a sloping l»ank, with a backgroai
of some evergreen foliage such as that
Mahonia, would form at this season an
monly pretty picture. One would lur<i®
imagine that so much diversity in colour exisu
in the old-fashioned Japanese Quince. A&
collection is to be found in Messrs. Y r eitch u
and Son’s Nursery at Cooinbe Wood.

Apples as ornamental trees—I vb

some of your readers, such as Mr. Groom, vi
have considered this question, would let ua Ld-®
the Apple trees which form the largest and c
picturesque trees when fully grown. I am
now thinking ol their quality as fruit at all,
if they happen to be good kinds as well as got®
trees, all the better. There is no tree so beari*
ful as the Apple tree, and I believe mxrfl
people would plant it for the sake of i
beauty if they knew the kinds that moke tl
finest trees. Beauty of bloom should be a co
Bideration, as well as size and form of tree,

W. R. R.

Peraettya mucronata.— With me ti
grows in a light black, peaty, sandy soil, u
sends up suckers in all directions ; it is nol
covered with crimson berries. Seedlings
up all over the garden. One bed of it is paj
ticularlv pretty just now, having a white be;
in fall bloom coming up through its branebe®
Later on the Pernettya is beautiful with i®
young red stems and small white bell-shap®
flowers spread all over it.—R.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

SOWING AND RAISING ANNUALS.
The time of year has again come round
most annuals should be sown, and as the seveni^|
kinds require very different treatment, itmir
well to make a few remarks on the more impo^
tant, and to notice such as are most desert I
of cultivation, in order that those who woulfl
like to grow this class of plants may know via u
to select. First and foremost come

The Asters. —Of these there are many vxridl
ties, the best and showiest being Truffaut!
Pajony-flowered, the blooms of which are superid
The way to raise these and other annual AsUaj
is to sow the seeds in boxes or pans of ligtY
finely sifted soil, consisting principally of
mould, and to get them to germinate readiljf
they should have a sheet of glass laid over tb!
top, and the boxes or pans placed in gentle beat,
when the plants will soon show themselves, wl
as soon as they are large enough to handle, it
will be necessary to prick them off in the »xa<
kind of soil in a frame or under hand-lights, froa
whence they can be lifted with good balls aui

S lanted out in the open. The time to do this is
uring a dull day, immediately after & shower,
as then they do not flag, but take fresh root
hold and start off at once. To grow Asters weD
they must have good ground that has
deeply dug and heavily manured, so that they
may get well down and find plenty of rich fool
to feed on.

Zinnias. —Next to Asters, Zinnias are perhsp*
most deserving of notice, and the double kindi
specially desirable, a3 their flowers are not onij
very full and well formed, but they are exceed¬
ingly brilliant and, when grown in masses,
they should be, quite dazzling, producing *
striking effect. YY'here they do best i* i*
sheltered positions, fully exposed to the euni
where, if planted in deep rich soil, they wifi
remain in full V>eauty till cut off* and destroyed
by the frost. The way to raise them is to so*
in heat, and treat them in the same manner m
the Asters, but os the Zinnias tore much tnort
tender, the sowings should uol/be effected til, 1

URBANA-CHAMPAIGfl

fit 10, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

107

•ml of April, nor the plants put out till the
l or fourth week in May, as when raised
«r, or exposed before the season mentioned,
are almost sure to get a check, from which
are slow in recovering, and rarely do so well
wards.

-0CK8.— These are likewise remarkably
ij, and are quite indispensable, as not only
hey very brilliant and varied in colour, but
load the air with sweet odours. The beat
to manage with Stocks is to sow patches or
i where they are to stand, so as to avoid
^planting, as it is a difficult matter to lift
i without the plants feeling the removal, and
% injured thereby on account of their having
tw tibrous roots. As Btocks show bloom
r it is easy to distinguish the single from
double, and to pull the singles out, thus
ing the beds full of doubles, which when
ther in masses make a tine show,
is Salpiolo&us is next to be commended,
as it is tender, it is useless
opting its cultivation ex¬
in favourable situations
arm soils, where, if plants
can be so accommodated,
send up a profusion of
ly Lily - like flowers, as
3*1 in shade and markings
hey are beautiful to look
The best way of getting
Salpiglossis in beds or
ers is to sow thinly in
l pots and plant out the
or second week in June, or
matter seed in fine earth
re the plants are to stand.
iopjsolums. — Both the
hing and dwarf sections of
u-oTums help much to make
isplay, the first named
g valuable for running up
steins of trees and clothing
bare branches, or for
ring fences or other un-
tly objects, which they
do, and robe them with
ity. All that is necessary
pop the seeds in, although
-s is saved by getting the
ta up in pots, and then
ting them out in a little
•ared soil to give them a
t. The Tom Thumb kinds,
which there are several,
e fine beds, as they are
compact, and bloom with
greatest of freedom.

ULOX DrUMMONDI GRANDI-
ia. —This is a choice annual,
e deserving a place in any
len where it may be used
er in lines or beds, as the
it is compact and the flow'ers
arkably showy and fine,
grow it well light rich soil
ecessary, in which it may
•own at once, or raised in
i or pans, and planted out
ron in the season.
wket Peas.— These must
be forgotten, as, besides
ng so ornamental in the
fcs of borders or other positions, they are
nning for cutting, a purpose for which they
specially adapted, as they work up nicely iu
loeta, and look well loose in vases. A neat
good way of growing them is to sow in
chea and give them a few tall twiggy sticks
limb on, or make use of coarse meaned rabbit
e to ran round in a circle a foot or so across,
vhich they will cling and hold themselves up.
ioDmAS.—8uch kinds of Godetia as Whit-
i. The Bride, Lady Albemarle, and one or
* others, are gorgeous, as they have flowers
rot as large and showv as single Tulips, but
re refined, as the petals are of a rich satiny
~ Being quite hardy, seed may be sown out
vwhere and the plants thinned freely,

of C. minor shows itself off to great advantage
and is very effective.

Nrmophila insignia is also a charming annual,
and one that is quite unrivalled for the richness
and great wealth of its blossoms, which are put
forth in such abundance as to form a sheet on the
ground.

Centaurea cyanus, the well-known Corn¬
flower, is an admirable plant to grow ; it should
be sown in quantity for cutting, as it yields a
large supply of light elegant blooms till late in
the autumn.

Chrysanthemums Burridgeanum and Dun-
netti are also very useful for the same purpose,
and likewise for borders, in which they make a
fine show. 8.

SCENE IN A GARDEN AT WEYBRIDOE.
Truk taste in the garden is unhappily much
rarer than many people suppose. No amount

Park, and below the usual lawn beds, trees, Ac.,
there is a piece of heathy ground, a portion of
which is shown in our engraving, and which
when we saw it was charming beyond any power
of the pencil to show. The ground was partially
clad with common Heaths, with little irregular
green paths through them, and abundantly
naturalised in the warm sandy Boil were the
Sun Roses, which are shown in the foreground
of the sketch. Here and there among the
Heaths, creeping about is a perfectly natural-
looking fashion, too, was the Gentian blue
Gromwell, with some varieties of other hardy
plants suited to the situation. Among thet e
naturalised groups were the large Evening
Primroses and Alstr®meria aurea, the whole
being well relieved by bold bushes of flowering
shrubs, so tastefully grouped and arranged as
not to have the slightest trace of formality
about them in any way. Such plants as these
are not sot out singly and without preparation,
but carefully planted in beds of
such naturally irregular out¬
line that when the plants be.
came established they seem
native children of tho soil as
much as the Bracken and Heath
around. It is remarkable bow
all this is done without in the
least detracting from the most
perfect order and keeping.
Closely-shaven glades and wide
Grass belts wind about among
such objects as those we allude
to, while all trees that require
special care and attention ahow
by their health and size that
they find all they require in
this beautiful garden. It is
more free from needless or
offensive geometrical twirling,
barren expanse of gravelled
surface, and all kinds of
puerilities—old-fashioned and
new-fangled—than any garden
we have seen for years.

View in a garden at Weybri^ge. — Sun Roses and other
plants growing amongst heather.

hardy

_„, so as

•ifford plenty of room for them to spread and The disposition to “dry
Like most annuals, Godetiaa require good
• *nd the more open and deeper it is the
■Her will they stand drv weather.

OmoLVFLUB m auritan iuus, C. minor and C.

*)° r . are all handsome, the latter being very
'tty for twining up standard Roses, and the
wr tv o for depending from rock work or other -

1 ru «i positions, where the striking deep blue house,

Digitizes I y \jUL |{?PC

of expense, rich collections, good cultivation,
large gardens, and plenty of glass will suffice ;
all these and much more it is not difficult to see,
but a few acres of garden showing a real love of
the beautiful in Nature as it can be illustrated
in gardens is very rare to see, and when it is
seen it is often rather the result of accident
than design. This is partly owing to the fact
that the kind of knowledge one wants in order
to form a really beautiful garden is very uncom¬
mon. No man can do so with few materials.
It is necessary to have some knowledge of the
enormous wealth of beauty which the world
contains for the adornment of gardens ; and vet
this knowledge must not have a leaning, or but
very partially, towardsthedry-as-dustcharacter.

“ ._ “ and name everything,

to concern oneself entirely with nomenclature
and classification, is not in accordance with a
true gardening spirit.

Thegarden, of which we here give an engraving
from a sketch by Mr. Alfred Parsons, contains
some of the mostdelightful and original bits of gar¬
den scenery which we have ever seen. Below the
on the slope over the water of Oatlands

BLUE SPRING FLOWERS.

It has often been remarked
how rich the alpine flora is in
plants of a blue colour, while
w tho lowlands it is rarely
seen. Those who, even in a
small way, endeavour to culti¬
vate alpine plants can bear
witness to this, especially in
the early spring months. Both
amongst bulbs and plants there
are some of the most ex¬
quisite shades which can be
imagined. In looking round
my little plot I have been en¬
abled to find the following :—
Grape Hyacinth (Muscari
botryoides). — The exquisite
tint of deep sky-blue colour
in this Grape Hyacinth is
quite unique, and the plant
itself most easily grown, either
on the rockery or in the her¬
baceous border. There are
several varieties or newly in¬
troduced kinds, but I do not think that there
is anything superior to the old well-known in¬
habitant of our gardens.

Anemone aprnnina.— A group of this on a
urt of my small rockery is now one sheet of
>loom ; its star-like flowers, thickly placed ou
its low cushion of leaves, form a very pretty
object. There is a variety of it of a silver
greyish blue, which is also very pretty. It is
another very easily cultivated plant, and ought
to be generally grown. The same may be said of
a flower very similar to this, Anemone blanda,
which blooms earlier, coming into flower with
the Cyclamen, ana long before those flowors
which we are in the habit of associating with
earliest spring, the Snowdrop and Crocus, venture
to make their appearance, and rapidly cover the
ground, as does A. apennina, and the chief care
is to prevent weeds growing in amongst the
roots, especially the common Crowsfoot, which
at a distance bears some resemblance to its
foliage.

Gentiana verna. —Here, instead of easiness
of culture, we have an exceedingly difficult one
—at least it in *c to the generality of pj

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

EC

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Mat 10, 1

vators—and ia one of those cases which seem to
point ont the cause of difficulty. I have some
plants of it on the rockery which are struggling
for an existence, while a pan under glass is a
mass of beauty ; and what can surpass it ? The
cause, then, seems to be the excessive wetness
of our autumn and winter months. During
that time, in its natural habitat, it is covered
thickly with snow and kept perfectly dry and
warm ; this is a condition we cannot emulate
in our climate, and the changes of temperature
to which it is exposed are injurious to its well¬
being. I had half a dozen fine plants of it from
Froebei at Zurich in the autumn, and planted
them with great care in suitable soil on my little
rockery.

Gentiana acaulis.— This is easy of cultiva¬
tion. I know one large garden in Kent which is
completely bordered with it in broad masses
9 inches wide ; and lovely it is in the spring
months, with its thick dense foliage and its deep
cobalt-blue flowers standing well up above the
foliage. When the sun is shining on some good

{ >lants of this flower nothing can exceed the
oveliness of its colour. The idea that this is a
difficult plant to grow has prevented many from
growing it, but, except \n very dry soils, no
plant is easier to cultivate. I imagine that its
closer, more rigid foliage enables it to resist the
influence of wet, and hence it does not suffer
from the winter as verna does. It is not so
early to bloom as verna, rarely showing its
brilliant flowers before May, and, just as I have
seen Gentiana verna in lovely masses on the
Col de Balme in the early part ol June while it
had long been past its best in the valley, so with
this and many other flowers ; their situation
greatly regulates their time of blooming.

Squills (scillas). —Scilla sibirica is a well-
known, easily grown bulb, with flowers of a
different shade of colour from any of the preced¬
ing ; there is a metallic hue in it which is very
distinct. Scilla bifolia is another very pretty
bulb. There are two varieties of it, one flower¬
ing very early, almost with the Cyclamens, and
another somewhat later. Very easily grown,
and most desirable. With the former of these
(sibirica) I have experienced disappointment
this year ; I do not know from what cause, but I
imagine from the depredations of slugs, which
eat off the shoots when they are just appearing
above ground.

TiIK forget-me-not (myosotis dissitiflora).
—Everyone knows and admires the Forget-me-
not, and this seems to be the earliest flowering one.
The charming little rupicola I cannot manage,
and I fancy tnat in our garden soil it loses its
dwarf character. It must be borne in mind that
there is nothing which seeds more freely than
the Forget-me-not, and that very soon the whole
rockery will be covered by it if it is not closely
watched ; happily, it is very easily pulled up.
In my small rockery it has overflowed the back
of it, and is a mass of bloom. There it is quite
at home and undisturbed, but I have to very
carefully guard the front portion, or itwould soon
be nothing else.

Omfhalodes verna, or creeping Forget-me-
not, as it is sometimes called, is an easily grown
and rapidly spreading herbaceous plant. The
flowers are, unfortunately, too scantily produced,
but are of a very lovely shade of colour. This
plant grows well in shade, and is valuable
wherever it can be introduced, but, to my mind,
can never equal the Forget-me-nots in value, for,
while they are one sheet of flower, this only pro¬
duces its flower, as I have said, sparingly.

Aubrietias. —Not strictly blue flowers these,
but very nearly so, and their lovely purple
blossoms are abundantly produced. A plant
which I had given to me some years ago is, I
think, the best that I have seen, and is now one
sheet of lovely purple.

Chionodoxa LucilL/K. —This, the latest ad¬
dition to our spring flowering bulbs, from the
mountains of Smyrna, is, I think, the most
lovely of all; true, the flowers have not the
intense blue of the Gentians, but there is a love¬
liness in the cccrulean tint of the petals, relieved
by their white centre, which makes them un¬
surpassed. Some bulbs that I have had three
years in the ground threw up long racemes of
flower, seven or eight in number, so that when
we get it fully established it will be a delightful
addition to our gardens. It is the hardiest of
the hardy; it-was in flower ia my garden last

Digitized by (jQOOlC

year when the intense frost and snow of the latter
end of March came on it, and I thought it was
done for; but it burst forth into fresh beauty,
and, although a cold north-easter is not favour¬
able for vegetation, yet it has bloomed bravely
through it all. Such are some of the vernal
beauties of various shades of blue one may have,
where alpine plants are loved and cultivated ;
there are, doubtless, many others, but these are
what I have now under my eye, and which have
given me real pleasure. D.

Dielytra epeotabilis. —If you have room
for another note on this plant, some of your
readers may be glad of some practical hints on
growing it. First let me say I thoroughly
understand an “ Old Lady’s ” perplexity, for
people will assert the perfect hardiness of a
plant in their gardens without deigning to in¬
form you whether they live on the top of a
mountain or on the sea coast, on a clay soil in
the Midlands, or a chalk down. The most
successful grower of the Dielytra that I ever
knew lived in a valley on a sandy soil, but near
a river. The main stock of plants grew under
the wall of a tiny greenhouse, east and south
aspect; here they flourished in such masses as I
have never seen since, and flowered in pro¬
fusion about this time of the year. I have a
plant from this stock fifteen years old. It is
now about 3 feet high, and has been a mass of
bloom Bince the middle of April. It is planted
in a south border, and has never been protected
in any way except by its neighbours, Daffodils
and Crown Imperials. My house is about 300
feet above the sea, clay soil, very well drained,
but much exposed to east winds ; nevertheless
many tender plants do well, owing to the roots
receiving every ray of sun that ever shines
winter or summer. Spiraea japonica grows
close to the Dielytra, and also does very well.
Tritoma grandis, its next door neighbour, has
never been without flowers for a year. The
only plant in the whole border which has had
any shelter is a broad-leaved Myrtle, which was
planted out as au experiment last summer, and
was done up in straw bands just before the
snow storms in December.—A. B. T., East
Anglia.

Home gTown Hyacinths. — I will
shortly state my treatment of these flowers. In
November the ground is well worked to the
depth of 16 inches ; the upper half of the earth
is then thrown on one side, and about 4 inches
of good compost, generally from an old Melon
bed, takes its place ; upon this the bulbs are
placed, and the ground levelled up with the soil
previously removed. The small bulbs are planted
in a nursery till they are large enough to go
with the others. After flowering the seed vessels
are cut off, and I always find it better to take
up the bulbs before the leaves are quite withered,
lest they should either decay or push prema¬
turely. They are now dried for a few days in
the open air, and laid not more than three or
four deep in hampers, and thus they remain in
any cool, dry place till November comes again.
When they have been forced in pots, after
flowering they should be plunged into the soil in
their pots, and are not allowed to die down till
their natural time. These bulbs will not re¬
cover the first year.—T. H., Dtvon.

Culture of Tree Carnations.— The pro¬
pagation of perpetual or tree Carnations is an
easy matter. Cuttings put in a hothouse on
bottom heat strike rapidly in winter. When
rooted and hardened for a short time in a pit or
greenhouse, they may in April or May be planted
out in the open ground. They can also at that
time stand a long journey. They must be packed
in damp Moss without earth at the roots. They
require a very airy situation. When planted
out they must, if the sun is hot, be shaded for
a few days and kept moist, and when in a
growing state they should be watered from time
to time with liquid manure. When they have
grown about 6 inches high they should be
pruned back at least one-half in order to induce
the growth of side-shoots and flower-buds.
To have them in bloom during the following
winter until April and May, when all other
flowers are scarce, they should be taken up
about the middle of September, potted in 6-incn
pots, and placed on a slight bottom heat in a pit
or stove ; they should be kept close for about
a week and then given air gradually, ».e., if tip

temperature is about 40° Fahr., as they do
require much more heat than that Of
plants destined for this purpose must have,
potted, a good quantity of flower-buds ; ini
some will have, if they have been well tnw
as many as from sixty to eighty. When
flower-buds begin to expand the plants c&j
moved indoors. I have had some in my dii
room more than a month, and they are sti
bloom, and much admired. They must be pi
as near the light as possible. Plants whic
not show a sufficient number of flower-bodi
first year should not be lifted from the
ground unless the winter appears to be s*

If that is likely to happen they can be tak
with a ball of earth adhering to the roots
put close together in a pit, uncovered u kq
possible, and w’hen frost sets in just pro!
from it, and that is all, and whenever
possible air should be given. These plants

5 reduce flower-buds, and may be poti
larch or April. If potted and put in a
house before they have a sufficient numbfi
flower-buds they grow straggling, lose t
leaves, and bloom badly.— Jean Sisley,
plaisir , Lyons.

Anemone ooronaria. —The varie
Anemone are the very best flowers one each
at this season, as they yield an abundance of
brightest and show iest of blossoms, which
fresher and longer in water than any others
which I am acquainted. Here we have had
in plenty ever since Christmas, when we
them in a cut state along with Hellebores, a
bination that was very effective, especially
gards the scarlets and blues of different sh
which show up in most pleasing contrast with
w hite of the Hellebores, and make one of
finestof displays. To get the Anemones inso
we took up plants with good balls and
them in a frame where they could get a
bottom-heat from pipes running unden:
which kept then gently on the move; and as
were well up to the light, and had plenty of
the flower-stems came short and stout, &3
do in the open. The plants on the border
which those referred to were lifted have
plied us with blooms since, and are still
with lots open and coming. The seed was
about this time last year, but, good as they
I have no doubt they would have been still hi
if we had sown carlv in heat and pricktd
plants out, as then they would have been k
and stronger. As the time is past for this
I would advise all who wish to grew these
Poppy-headed Anemones to prepare a 1 <i
at once and sow them ; but to meet with
fullest share of success the position must
sunny one, as warmth is absolutely necej
for their welfare, and they only expand i
gay blossoms when the solar rays are upon t!
except they are cut and placed in wattr
rooms, where the warmth causes them to ui'
and keep open. They are therefore most
able for cutting, as they last as long «
do on the plants. The soil most auiUbl' f®
Anemones is that which is light and rich,
if not so naturally it should have a good d re#
ing of leaf-mould and rotten manure dn p ft
together with a sprinkling of sharp sand, w hkl
will keep it open and porous. The proper is
tance to sow the seed is to have two drills i be#
a foot apart, in which it can either be scat
thinly or dropped in patches 8 inches * <r #
from each other, and when the plants con c sj
they should be singled out.— S.

Permanent bedding —Inquiries are ft
made for suggestions for permanent bee * i
hardy plants. In the Birmingham Botais
Garden I lately saw a bed of Scilla sibiri -*
most vigorous condition, through which p **
of the white Japan Anemone were cornu l '
strongly. This combination, which has M
planted for four seasons, during which ti i*
has remained untouched, has proved
satisfactory. Another bed of the 1 ifl

C k Himalayan Primula rosea was in
uty, and likely to continue so for a 1<
of time. Primula Japonica is largely mad U
of for the same purpose, and P. Siebol i,i
another part of the grounds, was provii i i
capabilities in a large plantation. It is **,,

S leasant to see good hardy plants thus
uced to notice m masses in an establish! Mj|
which should be instructive and suggesti or
to good gardening (no less than to botan )*[
well as a place of public resort and oniuseu**

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

■I ay 10, 1884.]

GARDENING illustrated

109

Dblong bed of Tritelia (Milla) uniflora was
ich a sheet of bloom that it was difficult to
ise its identity.—L. R. D.

395.—Flowers all the year round.—

ing the past three years I have turned my
ntion to the growth of flowers, and it is
i very few exceptions that we have not ciU
era on the table during the whole year. I
luce the greater part of my flowers from
. and all the forcing apparatus I have is a
11 frame 6 feet by 4 feet, heated with
are. In the early winter months we com-
ce by gathering a few Primroses of all
les of colour, which keep increasing in num-
and last up to May. Then at the festive
on of Christmas we are enabled to gather a
number of flowers of the Christmas Rose ;
1 would strongly impress upon growers
, when once planted, Christmas JJoses
ild never be moved. Before the first month
he year is out we have a fine display of
jle Snowdrops and Crocuses, then follow
golden-laccd Polyanthus, a small quantity
rnich should be raised from seed each year
roduce fine flowers ; and with a winter like
past one Pansies would be in full bloom.
i have been producing a magnificent display
ome weeks past. I must not omit to men-
a bed of hybrid Polyanthuses, which has
i the admiration of every one who has seen
The flowers range in colour from pure
.e, orange, lemon, up to deep maroon,
beds have a border of Alpine Auricula,
•h even during their first year produce some
nice flowers. At the present time the
>le Wallflowers, in all colours, are a thing
eauty to the eye, and scattering abroad a
ly perfume. From present appearances,
next flowers will be a Ded of Ranunculuses ;
in passing, I should advise a “Lover of
rers ” not to mix his flowers, but to plant
a in beds of sorts—say, for instance, a bed
sfcers, a bed of Zinnias, &c. We have now
>ur frame boxes of Asters, Zinnias, Mari-
8, Balsams, Pansies, and a variety of other
ers, which are been gradually potted off, as
» will permit, ready for bedding out. I
ivs buy my scarlet Geraniums, finding it
cult to keep them through the winter, not
ing a greenhouse ; but as “A Lover of
.vers” possesses one, he will not only be
• to keep them in bloom long after the frosts
e cut down the outdoor flowers, but will
be able to propagate a variety of indoor
its, such as Primulas, Gloxinias, Calceo-
as, Fuchsias, and a vast number of other
x>r plants, which may all be raised from
l, by which means flowers may be prepa¬
id at a very small expense, provided the
deur gardener does the work himself.—
3t Norfolk.

1405.—Passion Flower in open air.—
* Passion Flower ean be grown in the open
but much depends on the climate. If near
west coast (Scotland), the influence of the
air works wonders. 1 had one in a green-
we near Glasgow for years, from which I got
idreda—I may say thousands—of flowers
h season. It was killed outright during the
ere winter of 1879-80. I had another in front
®y house at Tighnabniaich (Ryles of Bute),
ich came through it all in safety, and, though
Tibly cut down, yet it bloomed, though late,
the following season, and now it is as strong
ever; so much so, that I pruned it on Satur-
v morning last. To show the mildness of
it place, Agapanthus umbellatus, Clianthus
mperii, and many other tender plants can bo
i without any covering all the winter.—J. W.

I1423.—Leaves of Phloxes curling. -
obably this is caused by green-fly on the
vea, or some other insect pests, 'the Phlox
not often injured in that way. This plant
1 rich, well-drained soil, and does not give
‘.^factory results if allowed to remain in the
pkc? for many years in succession. The
*tway a to propagate young stock annually,
at least every alternate year, by cuttings.

»honld be put in some time during the
' tth of March, and if they are rooted in a hot-
, and grown on for some time under glass,
'vm* they are planted out, they will yield
M spikes of bloom the same season.—J. D. E.
1U19.—Sweet Williams and Pinks.—
^buent you gave your seedlings was
3 UI *«right, and why the plants should “turn
fkiluw ami dry up ” both on tho jwqd beds and

Digitized by

KJm OOg

planted out is a mystery, unless they had been
attacked by wire worm. Have you been
putting any highly stimulating manure near the
roots ? An overdose of this would cause the
plants to die, by killing the active rootlets and
ultimately the stems.—J. D. E.

11422. — Alpine Auriculas. —The position
you suggest for the Auriculas would do very
well indeed, and the soil is also right. The best
time to sow the seed is in February, in pots and
pans, and raise them in a gentle hot-becl. Prick
them out in boxes when they are in a small
state ; and when the plants are large enough,
which will be in July, they may be planted out
permanently. They arc quite hardy, and do far
better in a shady position than when exposed to
the sun all day.—J. D. E.

11428.— Crocuses after flowering.— It
is best not to remove the leaves until they show
some signs of decay. After this is done any
kind of bedding plants may be planted over
them, except those that have thick and fibrous
roots, which might tear up the Crocus bulbs
when they are being removed iu the autumn
after the frosts have killed them.—J. D. E.

11412.— Gladioli.— “ E. A.” is so vague in
this query that we must conclude he is quite
ignorant of the culture of Gladioli. If so he had
better refer to the numerous and excellent
articles which have appeared in Gardening
Illustrated on this subject. I may rem ark
that, as usual, neither soil nor situation are
mentioned. All the spring and summer
Gladioli may be left in the ground, but except
in the extreme south and in warm soils it is
always a risk to winter Gladiolus gandavensis
out of doors, not on account of cold but of
damp. All Gladioli should always be planted
G inches underground “ E. A.” appears to
think it an unusual depth, whereas few bulbs
should have a less depth of earth over them.—
A. B. T., Fast Anglia.

11442.—Taking up Gladioli bulbs.—In

a cold, wet, clay soil, with a northern exposure,

I have found that Gladioli bulbs, if allowed to
lie till spring, have either rotted away from
damp, or have been ki led by the frost. If, by
chance, any have survived the winter, they
have been so small tl at there was no likelihood
of their producing flowers that season. In a
warm, well-drained border, under a wall with a
southern exposure, I have generally found the
bulbs quite fresh in spring, and when let alone,
and supplied occasionally with liquid manure
after they started into growth, they have
flowered well enough. If the bed or border,
however, is used for other purposes, it is very
inconvenient to have bulbs in it, for during the
process of digging they are apt to shift their

? laces, and come up where they are not wanted.

n most cases it would be more satisfactory to
lift them every year, for then they can lie ex¬
amined, and the large bulbs only replanted, the
small ones being put in a separate place by
themselves. If “It. A.” likes to try them for
one year in a properly prepared bed, I think ho
will find that, although they may all survive and
send up leaf-stalks, only a certain proportion
of them will bear flowers, and the crop will
resemble, in this respect, a bed of badly-grown
Lily of the Valley.—P. R.

- It is not absolutely necessary to take up

the hybrids of G. gandavensis during the winter.

I have had them remain in the ground during
very severe winters, and come up strongly the
next year ; indeed, earlier aud stronger than
the bulbs that had been lifted and stored in the
usual manner. G. floribundus, cardinalis,
Colvillei, and many others establish themselves
in the borders, and may remain undisturbed
for years.—J. D. E.

-They may be left in the border through

winter if sand or litter be laid on the surface to
keep out frost.—J. G.

11428.—Taking up Crocuses.— You can
plant over your Crocus roots (or close to them)
Lobelia aud Golden Feather, or sow seeds of
Saponaria, Ten-week Stock, Nemophilla (if
vou have not cats !), or Mignonette. I have a
border of Anemones close to the Crocus border,
and inside of it.—M. C.

11441.—Plants for spring and sum¬
mer. —Prepare a good bed. Buy plants of
Marguerites and other bedding plants now, aud
in October buy roots of the varieties of Narcissi
and Daffodils and plant them for spring.—M. C.

evergreen for arc!

11 42l.— Steaming Cucumbers.— Do not admit hot
steam into the house, as the plants arc doing well; it is
best to let well alone.—J. D. E.

1135(3. — Grubs in garden paths.— Tho
answers to this query on April 26th and April
19th are, I think, very mistaken ; for I have
found lately on my garden walks very similar
grubs to those described, and undoubtedly they
were not slugs. The grubs I found had four
anterior legs and two posterior false legs and a
small horny head ; colour of body dull grey or
brown ; size from f of an inch to 1 } inch long.
>> e found some hundreds of these grubs on our
gravel walks, and some just in the ground of
the grass edgings, and some we have dug up in
the flower beds and in the lawn, feeding on the
roots of the plants and grasses. I must not
pretend to much learning on the subject, but I
feel pretty sure these are the grubs of the
Daddy-Iong-LcM (Tipula oleracea, or Tipula
corniciue) ; and anyone possessing “Stickney’s
Observations on the Grub,” quoted by Kirby <!k
Spence, would learn all about this grub. I
would add that last autumn the turf round
Bolton s Bench, at Lyndhurst, was honey-
summer | combed with holes made by the Daddy-long-
Legs insect in escaping from its pupa-state
underground, and in many instances the pupa-
case was left sticking iu or out of the holes.—
W. B. L.

11425. Paraffin oil. —The less you have to
do with this article the better. I recollect four
years since several Vineries in the neighbourhood
of Horsham being nearly ruined by it. Tho
only use I make of it is to steep peas and hard
shelled seed iu to prevent the ravages of mice
and birds. My plan is to dip the seed in
paraffin, then spread it out ou a newspaper for
some hours to dry before sowing.—A. H. F.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(miscellaneous. )

11425.—Paraffin oil and insects.— Puraffln oil mav

bo an efficient, but it is not a safe remedy. Tobacco
steejied in boiling water, 2 ounces to a pail o*f water, is &
better remedy and safe.—J. E. G.

11449. Evergreen s for arches.— Ivy is the best
irehes.—J. E. G.

Constant Reader.— Try Messrs. Carter and Co., High

Uolborn, London.- A. C. Uolbcach.—" Poultry Keep-

Lewis Wright. Cabell & Co.- A a Old Header.

—Trv Barr and 8ons, 12, King Street, Covcnt Garden,

London. We do not know tho price.- W. E. T _You

mi"ht get what you want from Negretti and Zambra,
Uolborn \ ia luct; but a* you do not require strict accu¬
racy, a now thermometer coitlng about one or two shil¬
lings would bo cheapest, and save much trouble._

W. E. T. —Try our advertisement columns.

Names of Plants.—J. Ri^ner.— Sodum oppositi-

folium.- Mrs. ntuart —Apparently Asarum europreum.

E. F. L .—Cytisus hirsutus.- W. K. P.M. — A. Libonia

Honbunda; D. Scdum Sicboldi variegatum: C. Acacia
longifolia ; D. Abutilon vcxillarium.

Manure.— Clay’s fertiliser or Standen’s manure. To¬
bacco powder will drive the ants away probably, and tho
woodlice may be trapped by laying pieces of Potato about
the house, and examining them overy dav.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents. —All communications
for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
tide o/ the paper only and adilretted to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address oj the sender is required, in addition to any nom
de plume to be useil in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title qf the query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and cottt-
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again.

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or /lowers onht
can be named at one time, and this only when qood
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name varieties
of florists' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist
has the means of comparison at hatul. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to name should always
accompany the parcel a

not flowering.— Will some reader
kindly tell me the reason of my purple Irises not flowering ?

They are in a border where they get sun and good soil
and have not been disturbed. Four years ago thev flowered
well, but hare been going off since, and this yeir there is
no »i?n of bloom. They appear healthy. Also, will garden
Narcissi flower better if the bulbs are parted when they
get too crowded ?— Seaton.

11477.—Protecting cottage gardens.—We are
about forming an association for the protection of our
cottage gardens from robbery. Could anyone kindly assist
us by letting us know of any other place having a simila •
association, that we may get their rules and mode of

OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

110

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[May 10 , \m

11478.—Blanching: Lettuce.— What ia the best
method of blanching Cos Lettuce ? Is it to be done whilst
the plants are growing ?—W. R.

11479.—Sowing Pern seed.— Is this to be sown in
bottom heat or in the ordinary way, os other seeds of
hardy annuals or perennials, and in what soil ?—R. W.

114S0.—Quick-growing Ivy.— Can anyone suggest
the beat quick-growing Ivy for east side of house.—K. >V.

11481.— Watering 1 Ferns overhead.— Could any¬
one tell me if Maidenhair Ferns should be watered over¬
head every night ? They are in a greenhouse, temperature
£►5 degrees. Some of the fronds are dying. So far the
Ferns have been watered overhead.—K. W.

11482.—Plants for culture In bath-rooms.—I
shall esteem it a favour if any reader will mention a few of
the best flowering plants suited for cultivation in a bath¬
room, which is both well lighted and ventilated, and which
has the benefit of the sun’s rays the greater part of the day.

I am fond of Liliums. Would they succeed 7— Aerie Ross.

11483.—CEnotheras and Dodecatheons.—I have
seeds of (Enothcra and L>odecatheon Meadia. Can anyone
give me information as to treatment?—W. T.

114S4.—Boring; a well.—I should be thankful for the
following information through your valuable paper :—On
a niece of ground I have, and use for gardening purposes,

I have sunk a well 12 feet deep. I have no water in it,
and would like to sink a tube well below it. Will some
friend kindly give me the infonnation necessary for so
doing ? Can I insert, say, a 2-inch tube, and drive it down
by means of a weight’striking it; and if so, to what
depth can I drive it, and should I get the water to draw
it with a pump ? The soil is gravel.— Barkiso.

11485 — Howto propagate Bulrushes.—I saw, in
Jan. 26th number or Gardkxixo, a question asking how
to propagate Bulrushes. I have been looking for the
answer, but have not seen it. Will someone kindly give
me some infonnation? Will they grow from seed?—
Northumberland.

11486.— Preserving: Insects.—I am desirous of pre¬
serving insects—bees, &c. Could anyone tell me how, and
with what to preserve them ?— Amateur.

11487.—Celery cankered.—I sowed Celery in my
garden frame, and when it had got nicely into rough leaf
it began to die awav in small patches, that spread till I
had scarcely any plants left. On lifting and examining
those affected, I found the roots cankered, like Parsley
roots are sometimes, until there was no root left. I And
on inquiry that it is nothing unusual to Celery growers
in this neighbourhood.—H. E. R.

11488.— Raising Petunias.— What is the best soil

and treatment for Petunia gran diflora seeds ? I And them
more difficult to raise than the common Petunia.— Sub¬
scriber.

11489. — Ornamental fernery.— Can any reader
suggest to me the best way to make my greenhouse into
a fernery ? I have found it utterly impossible to grow
anything in it but ferns, it having a south-easterly aspect.
My Idea now is to have it ornamented with showy rock-
work, Buch as they use in aquariums, and am anxious to
And out what sort of material is used, and what class of
workpeople to apply to.—H. Hike.

11490. — Plants for edging* flower beds.— Will
someone kindly give me the names of some dwarf hardy
plants for edging beds? I have tried both Cerastium and
variegated Arabis, but neither of them last in the soil of
my garden.—M. S.

11491.—New tennis lawn. — How soon ought a
tennis lawn, which was relaid last February, and has been
rogularly rolled for the last fortnight, to be ready for uso ?
—A Regular Subscriber.

11492. — Camellia buds dropping. — I have a
Camellia which for the last years has produced buds, but
when the time comes for them to open they drop off. The
plant is about Ave years old. It is not kept in a damp
place. What can I do with it to prevent this from
occurring next winter?—J. H.

11493.—Wallflowers.—I havo a very fine show of
Wallflowers, but I am told that the plants will be no good
after this year. Is this correct? They are about 18
inches high, and have been planted two or three years.—
W. P. P.

11494.—Roses In tubs.— Any directions for growing
Roses in tubs will be gladly received. I am Just about to
plant a yellow Banksia Rose in a tub on one side of a
south doorway. What crimson rose would do well oppo¬
site? Would It injure the Roses to plant Bmall things in
the tubs, such as Forget-me-Nots or Crocuses?—A. E. H.

11495. — Cutting back Carnations, &c.— May
Carnations, Picotees, and Pinks be cut back nearly to the
ground, in order to keep them from becoming long and
straggling? The usual practice is to layer them, but
layering and cutting off when rooted, and transplanting
them, takes more time than I can devote to them, so that
I am wishful to know if cutting them back as soon as they
have done flowering will answer the same purpose as
layering.—S icnarp.

11496.—Pansies eaten off.—I have a nice lot of
Pansies, and find they (the blooms' are eaten up. I have
searched for slugs, but found none. Can it be Bparrowg ?
—Churchyard.

11497.—Cesspool manure.— Can anyone advise me
respecting the use of liquid manure for the greenhouse or
garden ? There is a cesspool in the garden, and a friend
once told me that I ought to have Roses in perfection, but
my gardener seems to be afraid to use it.—K. F.

11498.— Cutting back Laurustlnus.— Should the
flowering branches of the Laurustinus bo cut back imme¬
diately after flowering?— Amateur.

11499.—Azaleas and All am an das.— Can anyone
tell me the best way of propagating, and the treatment of.
Azalea Mollis and Allamanda Hendersoni? I have tried
taking off the young shoots with roots, have put in
cuttings from the young and old wood, have kept them
dry and damp, have put them in heat and in the cold
house, near the glass and In the shade, but always with
the same result—they seem all right for a week or two, then
strip and die off.—B eaTkx.

11500.— Genistas and Deutzlas.— How should I

11501.—Moss on walks.—By what means can 1
destroy Weeds and Moss on garden walks?— O. D. 8car-
BOROUOn.

11502.— Nicotiana afflnls.— I want full directions
for cultivation of Nicotiana afflnis. I have some nice-sizod
seedlings in a pan, which I am thinking of potting off.
What size |>ote should I uso ? Where keep thorn ? When
may flowers be expected? Any infonnation glady received.
—Ichthcb.

11503.—Colouring; Grapes.—I have a vinerv 18 feet
by 8 feet. There are six canes in it. The border is inside,
and the house is heated with 4-iuch hot water pipes—two
flows and one return. There is good ventilation top and
bottom, but my Grapes did not colour last rear. I should
be glad for some hints on colouring.— Red Spider, M. L.

11504.—Grafting Rhododendrons and Acers.
—I should feel obliged if I could get an answer about
grafting Rhododendrons and Accrs. What I want is full
particulars about grafting Rhododendrons and Accrs,
whether they can be done in the open air or not, or in the
autumn.— Georoe W. Hazelwood.

11605.— Narcissi bulbs.— How should I treat these
when the plants have done blooming? Should they be¬
taken up and dried or left in the ground ? I have several
varieties, and I should be glad of any hints as to culture,
■See., as many of them have not bloomed well this season.—
Taxcred, Fartiham .

11506. — Spiraeas not flowering.— Can a Spinsa
which has been in the garden two years be improved by
lifting and bringing into a room? it has never flowered,
but is healthy. When is the best time for dividing roots of
Dielytra?—M.C., Dublin.

11507.—Pancratium Calathinum and Undu-
latum. —Can any correspondents tell me the greenhouse
treatement of these ? I got several bulbs of each four or
Ave years ago. They have grown vigorously each year,
but have shown no signs of Aowering.—T. B.

11608.— Plants failing in conservatory.— About
a year ago we had a conservatory built. Soon the plants
introduced began to drop their buds and leaves. Gera¬
niums, Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, and Camellias all shared
the same fate. In October the Rose trees, a Glorio de
Dijon and a Marechal Nicl were planted, the roots being
outside the house. About Christmas they began to bud
vigorously, but soon the leaves curled and fell without
any apparent cause. No green-Ay, mildew, or red spider
to be seen. About a month ago they sprouted again, and.
as before, the leaves curled and fell off. The snoots are
delicate and leaves very small. The conservatory is built
with a S.W. aspect. The Aoor is all tiled, with the excep¬
tion of a narrow- border a foot wide along one side. The
roof is glazed with a thick, blue tube glass. Can any
readers state the cause of our utter failure, and suggest
a remedy ?—A. T. E.

11509.— Creeping Jenny in baskets.— In the
spring, three years since, I obtained some Creeping Jenny
from a nursery gardener in London, and that year it grew
beautifully in hanging baskets (quite two feet long, and
lasted al the summer), but since 1 have not succeeded with
it. Last s r it woula not grow- at all in the house, in the
same sit i »‘ : ou as before, and that outside withered directly
it had done bio >niing. Will some one kindly tell me the
probible reason— r want of manure (1 have never used
any), and what kind, what sort of soil required, and how
I am to proceed to get nice hanging baskets for the house
this yeir? Being quite a novice at gardening anv
infonnation will be thankfully received.— Alice, Liverpool.

11510.— Cannas —A plant that has been growing for
two years in one large pot is now throwing up fresh
growths. Is it best left alone in the pot, and should I use
manure-w-ater and soot ? Some people recommend plant¬
ing them or placing them out-of-aoors in the pit. What is
best to do?— Old Subscriber.

11511.— Hibiscus Rosea. —I have a tree of this
species growing in a large pot. It stands 5 feet above the
pot, and is trained down about 4 feet; its total height
would be about 9 feet. Is it safe to use manure-water, and
is a cool or warm greenhouse the best to keep it in ?— Old
Subscriber.

11612.—Eucalyptus.—I have a plant of this, which
has been cut dow n twice, and now stands about 6 feet
above the pot, in which it has grown two years. How can
I obtain others ? Are they produced by seed, or cuttings,
and is liquid manure beneAcial?— Old Subscriber.

11613.— Azaleas and Gardenias —What tempora-
ture should be kept up for Azaleas during their period of

g rowth? Also, is it possible for Gardenias to bloom in a
ouse entirely dependent on sun heat, and when should
they be re potted?—L. D.

1161*.—Plants for windows — I have a small green¬
house and small cucumber-fnune, heated with hot wator,
and yet I cannot keep two windows supplied with Aowering
plants. Can any reader help me ?— Small Greek house.

POULTRY.

Gapes in chickens.— I have just seen a
reply by “A. H. H.” about gapes in chickens,
in Gardening. I cannot understand his failure.
We used carbolic acid—a nearly black, strong-
smelling liquid—in both ways I wrote to you
about on Thursday last. We had a brood
brought in suffering very much, and proceeded
at once to dose them with the fumes. All but
one were well on Monday, so we gave it one
more turn. It is now quite well. At the same
time we rubbed some of the acid (undiluted)
with the cork out of the bottle on the inside of
the long wing feathers of the hen, and so far as
I know the nen was not affected in the least.
It may be there are two substances called car¬
bolic acid.—T. G. W.

Poultry feathers.— These are bought by Blyth Sc
Sons, Henry Street, Liverpool. The prices vary from 4s.
to 4s. 6d. and 3s. to 3s. 6d. per stone.—F. N.

BEES.

SEASONABLE NOTES.

The fine spring weather experienced do
blossoming of Plum trees enabled the
derive full advantage from this valuable
of early provision. Brood-rearing is prof
at a rapid rate, and if a check be not n
through a change of weather swarms are
to be unusually early this season. The
family of Crowfoot now coming into flower
eagerly sought after, particularly the Pi]
from which abundance of pollen is obtsari
On sunny days numbers of young bees but 1
seen crowding at the entrance of pro$j<a|
hives, and exercising their wings for the
time. So great is the crowd of juvenile* ia
instances that the workers are hinders
carrying stores into the hive as quickly u
would.

Feeding. —It is a great mistake, as
have found to their disappointment and
to imagine that when spring flowers aj
bees are quite safe aud require no fn
tention in being supplied with artificial
Often at this time greater care in fe
necessary than at any other, with stocks
weak more particularly. Large auanti
food are consumed by the young beea i
the grub state, which, of course, draws
upon the store department, and where no
provision is left over, it is only hand-te-a
living as yet; and should a spell of cold of
weather set in, and external supplies
quently cease, if only for a short time,
brood will starve and the queen cease to
and even the whole colony die out.

Stocks queenless. —Should the bees of
hive appear inactive when other colonies
busy, and should they fail to carry into
hive little loads of pollen attached to their
legs, the hive is in all probability qu
uueen having died from old age <
during the winter. In the ordinary course,
a queen becoming worn out, another is r
and the old one removed ; but should the#
neither eggs or l.rood in the hive at the
of the accidental death of the queen, of c

less, a careful inspection of the interior of
hive should be made by examining each c
separately. Frequently remove tne qaiU
puff in a little smoke, to keep the tea U
running over the tops of the frames ; ttea ?
ceed to draw back the division board, an* &
the first frame by the ends and lift it octal
fully to avoid crushing any of the beet a
search for queen on both sides of the coa
She is usually to be found on one of the otetn
combs. Having examined one side, it <aa *
reversed by lowering the right hand and niil
the left so as to bring the top bar of the ft*
perpendicular ; then, oy giving the frame
turn towards the right, lowering the left bj
and raising the right, the frame will be bn.**-
to a horizontal position. Each comb as exsri*
should be replaced in the hive. If no 1
discovered search should then be made
or brood ; if neither are present it will be »cj
elusive proof that the colony is uueenless. - :
being so, it should be requeened as quickly
possible, either by the introduction ol i y
queen or a frame of comb from another j
containing brood and eggs, from which the
will rear themselves a queen, but much tiweM
be saved by the introduction of a fertile
which will begin to lay at once. A <jueeo w*
introduced to a colony is placed in a
cage, which is inserted between two « ■
combs ; the cage having a flange on tie *
prevents it slipping down between the fnc*
After having Deen confined in the cage te;* T
the combs about twenty-four hours *»
liberated, and the bees sprinkled with »
syrup, when she is, as a rule, favourably
ceived, and accepted as the future monarch
the hive.

Wasps. —Queen wasps are now making tj
appearance, being frequently seen in «
proximity to the hives on the alighting te*
and even between the coverings of straw hi'
Their destruction is important to the bee kef |
as each queen wasp starts an indejieM
colony, which at the end of the summer tetf
very troublesome about the apiarv. » v *
from & syringe, discharged upon them w.

URBANA-CHAMPA1GN

U r 10,

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

111

' alight, will bring them to the ground,
n^they can be destroyed.—S. S. G., Box>

unefbrrlngf Bees.—I hare a skep hive with a
g swarm. Will *‘S. S. G.” kindly mention the best
for transferring' the same to a bar-frame hive, and
■ bich kind he recommends. I also wish to move the
ion of the hive from where it is to about 6 yards or
ds distant. Can this be done at once, which would
ost convenient ? Or is there a danger of the bees
i their way, owing to the altered position ?—Mkus-

BIRDS.

^reeding canaries.—I should be obliged
iyone would kindly givo me full instructions
o the breeding of young canaries. Should
cock and hen be kept together from the time
7 have finished building until the young
Is are able to feed themselves? I believe
e people take away the cock bird after the
d egg is laid, to prevent its injuring the eggs
young birds when hatched. I believe it is
unusual for him to destroy the young birds
isturbed. If he be taken away will the hen
ig up the birds entirely until able to feed
mselves ? Should the hen be nightly fed
le laying and sitting ?—R. T. E.

arrot plucking: her feathers.—" J. D. A.’s"
ot has token cold. A salt water bath given from a
iring-pot twice a week and six monkey nuts daily will
>ro the feathers. Parrots ought to be kept in rooms
a south or south aspect.—W almrr.

igeons dying-.—In reply to “T. H. B. H.,” the
on why the young birds die and the old ones desert
n is that the young pigeons are very often irritated
ittle red insects which are very annoying to the old
s. The way to cure it is to sprinkle some turpentine
-winel and hold it very lightly under the birds* wings,
ng care not to let the turpentine burn the birds.—
ra.

oung pigeons-—I should be much obliged if any
ier of Ga&dkxcto would tell me the best age at which
et voong pigeons known os “ squeakers,*’ and what to
l them on. Old birds will not stay, and I thought
ng ones might if brought up and petted.—T urbit.

AQUARIA.

Pish and plants for an aquarium.—
ill some readers kindly give me the name
4 address of anyone in the north (as near
rlington as possible) where I could obtain
Id and other fishes ; also, Vallisneria spiralis
d other plants suitable for an aquarium ? I
i fitting one up, and should like a variety of
h and plants. Should also be glad of any
.jgestions on the subject.—J. E. T.

\quarium In greenhouse.—I would thank some
- to advise me how to utilise an aquarium in a green-
use, either as a small stove house or for forcing cut-
gs. It is 3 feet long, 20 inches deep, and 20 inches
le, slate bottom, and thick glass sides, movable cover,
nter temperature 50 degs., double row of pipes.—
«*urs a.

HOUSEHOLD.

Cooking Haricot Beans. —Haricot Beans
eed not necessarily be dried ; in fact by many
jey are preferred when gathered for immediate
ae while yet the pods are green. They
tay be prepared in the following manner :
lalf fill a stew-pan with water, and when this
i boiling throw in the Beans, adding a pat of
utter and a small quantity of salt. They
hould boil till quite soft, when they should be
rained in a colander. Next let them be put
atoa stew-pan, adding 3 ounces of fresh butter,
little pepper and salt, chopped Parsley, and
jemon juice. Let the whole be tossed together
aitil thoroughly mixed, and when dished up
orroonded with “ croutons,” that is thin pieces
'J bread cut into various shapes and fried in
-•arified butter. The foregoing relates to fresh
*«d, but when it is dried it is necessary to
it in cold water for five or six hours pre¬
vious to its being prepared for the table ; and,
® Edition, it should oe put on in cold water to
m.

®d«r Flower Water. —I shall be very glad if soi_

give a good receipt for making Elder Flower

K. H.

PourrL— Will someone give me a really good old-
receipt for making Pot Pourri ? Telling how to
y Rose flowers from the first. Can faded Rose
bought?—A. K. H.

Rabbits eating* their young.— H. J. S.
—A French professor of my acquaintance tells
me that at his home in France he has been
accustomed to keep and breed rabbits ; that he
always kept them supplied with pure water, of
which they wore accustomed to drink ; that the
process of birth is always attended by a certain
amount of fever in the mother ; and that it is to
obtain moisture that they resort to the horrible
expedient of killing their young ; that a pan of
water placed conveniently within reach would
have saved the lives of the young and much
suffering on the part of the rabbit-mother. He
tells me that he never saw a case of distended
stomach (* * pot belly ”) until he came to England ;
his rabbits, having drinking water at their dis¬
posal, ate only so much green food as their health
required, while those kept in England without
water are tempted to cat an undue amount of
vegetable solely for the sake of the moisture
contained. — Ami.

- The cause of this is almost invariably

due to the intense thirst from which the doe
suffers about the time of kindling. A supply
of water should always be within her reach
forsome days before and after the event—J. 0. S.

- In reply to “ H. J. S.” the following ex¬
tract from Mayhew’s “ Dogs” (Routledge) may
be useful:—“ Some persons entertain a notion
that the bitch which has once devoured her
litter will ever after retain the disposition. This
is a false idea. On the next occasion, if pro¬
perly treated and dieted, she will most likely
prove an excellent mother. I once saw this in
a very remarkable manner illustrated by a
rabbit. A week after the doe came into my
possession she plucked her fur and made her
bed. One morning I distinctly saw a nest full
of young, but, looking again at noon, not a
single one of the progeny was to be beheld.
Some little blood and a mangled leg told their
history. Soon afterwards, when the animal w as
again breeding, I by chance discovered that she
had an inordinate thirst. At first it amused me
to see the creature lap the water I presented to
her ; but at last I placed within her hutch a cup,
and had it kept filled. Her desire for liquid
was not speedily quenched, and it became tome
a source of pain when I reflected how much
agony the craving must have caused prior to my
being conscious of its existence. The next
litter, however, was not eaten by the mother.
She brought them up, and they likewise did
well, drinking as much as they pleased. From
having been savage—that is, from always endea¬
vouring to bite the hand that cleaned her hutch,
or even supplied her food, she became gentle
and familiar, allowing herself to be caressed and
her progeny looked at. ”

Do pigs pay ?—I can buy a pig alive at
9s. 6d. per score, or a flitch of bacon at 6|d.
per lb., and hams at G£d. per lb. Meal is sold
here (Somerset) by weight, bran and com by
measure. I am waiting anxiously for Mr. Vaux
to kill another pig, for, I think, if anyone can
produce pig-meat cheaper than it can be bought
it is Mr. Vaux. As a poor man, I would very
much like to fat my own pigs if I gained any¬
thing by it. The price of pork here is : Loins
and chines, 8d. ; flitch bacon, 6|d. ; hams,
6^d. ; blades, 6£d. ; music box or chaps (whole),
4^d. to fid. ; eye piece, 3d. per lb.— Son of Adam.

*y0UNG MAN seeks a Situation as Under

ri-r 18 J ihrce r ear8 ln present situation.—J. B.

8ELSBY, Gar dener, L axfield , Wickham Market.

AAFANTED, a Situation as GARDENER or

TT GROOM and GARDENER. Married. Age30.-Ad-
dresjTHOMAB KEEN, The Rectory House, Datchet, near

“T7ESTA,” FOX TERRIER female pup

* about 5 months old, price 18s. Must have a good
home.—For particulars address to Master T. EVANS, Tros-y-
parc, Denbigh. North Wales.

THFFANT AND SCRIM, for protecting Fruit
A. Tree* and Greenhouse Shading, from 2d. per yard;
Tanned Netting in all widths at wholesale prices; Russian
Mats of every description at reduced prices: and Raffia fibre.
Pnce list on appliootion.-J. BLACKBURN A 80NS, 4 & 5,
Worm wood 8 treet, London, E.O.

UVERY MAN HIS OWN TINKER.—Solder-

A-* m S Tools, with accessories and instructions by parcels
post. Is. 9d.—THE NATIONAL TOOL DEPOT, Aston, Bir¬
mingham.

T*GGS, Dark Brahma, 6s. per dozen ; Houdan,

4s. 6d. per dozen, all from handsome pure bred birds.
Mrs. CURTOI8, Brothertoft Hall, Boston.

•PIN POSTAL BOXES ! BOXES'!! BOXESTTi

—Send for sample dozen, 6 by 3 by 2. free by narcela Dost
—TIPPETTS and CO., Aston, Birmingham P P ^ ’

gitiz

by l

■oogie

CD PANS.—12 Strong Zinc Pans, 9 by Gby 3,

to an £ ad<lr0M - Everlasting wear.
—TIPPETTS and CO., Aston, Birmingham.

HOSE! HOSE!! HOSE!!!

PATENT RED RUBBER GARDEN HOSE
Lasts four times as loug as ordinary white vulcanised hose.
Stands severe Government testa, thus proving superiority of
quality, lighter iu weight, greater in strength, and cheaper in
the long run than any other hose for garden use. A corre¬
spondent writes: “I have had a length of your Red Rubber
Hose iu use nine years, aud it is now as good os ever."
Samples and priced catalogue of hoec, garden eugiues, and
fittings, free.

MERRYWE A.THER Sc SONS,

Fire Engine and Hose Makers, 63, Long Acre, London, W.C.

MUSICAL HOMES.

THE “ORCHESTRONE.”

Price 2s.

or 26 Stamps. Carriage free.

A Sample Instrument sent,
Carriage Free with 16 care¬
fully selected paper discs,
which can be changed as often
as desired.

The Orchestrone is a new
and charming instrument
that any person can play
without study or tuition;
thus the possessor at once
becomes on an equality with
practical musicians without
learning a note of music.
The Orchestrone can be so
altered and adjusted in tono
that tho melody produced
... , „ , , ,, , may bo deep and rloh as the

Violoncello, plaintive as the Flute, or melodious as tho
Clorionette.

The price of the Orchestrone places it within the reach of
all, and no home can be dull where one’s favourite melodies
(cither sacred, operatic, dance, or s-mg) can follow each othor
os frequently as desired.

The Orchestrone harmonises beautifully with the Piano,
Harp, or Violin, and is not affected by a damp atmosphere ;
it is also very compact and nicely polished on the outside.

Address;

ARTHUR FOSTER, Secretary,

The English Orchestrone Company.

Works: WOOD GREEN, LONDON, N.

OPRING FLOWERS.—Polyanthuses, Prim-

w roses, Hepaticas, Auriculas, Ac.. specialities.—For priced
Lusts apply^to Mr. COOPER, F.R.H.S., Calcot Gardens, near

DEDDING PLANTS.—Orders booked for my

AJ 12s. 6d. Collections of fifteen dozen, consisting of Gera¬
niums. Calceolarias, Petunias. Heliotropes, Dahlias, herba¬
ceous plants, etc. Satisfaction guaranteed.—S. 8IMCOX, 158,
Severn Roaa, Cardiff.

CARNATIONS and PICOTEES, Carter’s,

r „ P™*? 1 '"- &nd c «nnell's superb strains, 12. 2s. 6d.; 24.
4s. 6d.; Pinks of above strains, 12, 2s. ; 24, 3s. 6d. ; pansies,
superb prize show and fancy, blotched, striped, quadricolor,
&c„ 12, Is. 6d. : 24, 2s. 9d. ; 12 Carnations, 12 Picotees, 12
Pinks, and 12 Pansies for 7s. 6tL All are large healthy
plants, for immediate effect; free packing guaranteed.— J.
SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradford. 1 ng guaranteed.

POLYANTHUS and AURICULAS, show and

A alpine, 12 for 2s. ; smaller, 12 for Is.; coloured Primroses,
includin g Crim son Beauty, 12, 2a. ; all free, as above.

RO HARDY PLANTS for 3s. 6d., free, in-

eluding Carnations, Ac.,as above advts.,; also
AquilegiaB, Daisies, Ac. —J. .SYLVESTE R, I dle, B radford.

OINGLE DAHLIAS.—100 varieties to choose

w from. List one stamp. 12 varieties, 2s. 6d. ; 24, 5s.; 36,
7s. 6d., named. Ware's, Connell's, and Carter’s strains, 12,
Is. 9d. ; 24, 3s.; 100, 10s. 6d., mixed or separate. All are largo
healthy plants, from cold frame; free, as above.

BEAUTIFUL CLIMBERS. —Dolichos Lab

A> Lab (violet), Japanese Honeysuckle, beautiful reticulated
foliage, Possiilora ocerulea, blue, and Mandevilla suaveolens,
beautiful white flower, the four, 2s. ; free, os above.
Flower seeds, 24 varieties in pictorial pockets, with cultural
direc t ions, 2a.___

MICOTIANA AFFINIS, “Cannell’s Victoria,”

Av handsome Bouvardia-like flowers, deliciously scented,
4 for Is. 6d. free, as above. Acacias, beautiful fern-like foliage,
4 for Is. 6d. free. Hollyhock's, "Cnaters," good plants, 6 For
2s. 6d. ; 4s. 6d. dozen, free. Pyrethrum. single, all colours
mixed, 2s. 6d. dozen. Pyrethrum, French hybrids, double
and sin gle, mixed, 3s. dozen. All free, safely packed.—J.

and single, mixed, 3s. dozen. All free,

SYLVESTER. Idle, Bradford.

AMATEUR’S EXHIBITION. —Collection of

AA Dahlias, 50 varieties, 12s.; 25, 6s. 6cL ; 12, 3s. 6d.; Show
Piuks, 4s. dozen paire, varieties; Pansies, show and fancy,
30 varieties, 4s. All post free. Also boxes, stands, and
tubs.-WILLIAM BUTTERWORTH, Greou-hill, Kidder-

rpHE “SOVEREIGN” COLLECTION BED-

A DING PLANTS, all Btrong and healthy, 30 doz, for
20s. : 15 doz. for 12s. 6d., consisting of 10 doz. Geraniums,
scarlet, pink, and white assorted, and 20 doz. various, bril¬
liant single and double Dahlias, Lobelias, Petunias, Asters,
Golden Feather, Zinnias, Everlastings, Ac.

Package free. Extra plants for carriage. Cash with order.
H. J. HARDY,

Btour Valley Nursery. Bures, Suffolk,
i ii in j r -C»t=log\i‘j Fre*. - , - -

UNIvfcR5TTTUr ILLINOIS

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

112

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Mat 10 , 1894

THE HOPE NURSERIES, BEDALE,

YORKSHIRE.

Established 1785.

henrY may

OFFERS THE FOLLOWING GOOD THINGS

Marguerites nr Paris Daisies, yellow, strong plants, 3a. per
dozen

Aquilegias or Columbines.

Aquilegia Skinneri, scarlet and yellow, one-year-old plants,
3s. per dozen.

Aquilegia chrysantha, yellow, ono-year-old plants, 3s. per
d >zen. , ,

Pyrothruma, fine for cutting, In 60 first-rate named varieties,
3s. per dozen.

Pansies, seedlings, strong plants, eared finest fancy and
Bhow varieties, Is. per dozen.

Daisies, double red, good clumps, 3s. per 100.

,, double white, ,, ,,

Polyanthus, giant strain, mixed, strong plants, 7s per 100.

Carnations, seedlings, one-year-old plants, 3s. per dozen.

Primula cortusoidcs, strong flowering plants, 2s.per dozen.

Puusies for bedding, 7s. per 100—Duchess of Edinburgh,
Tory. Cliveden Blue, and Purple.

Pelargoniums, strong bushy plants, in 4}-inch P°ts, in bud.
Show, French, and Spotted kinds, including Triomphe de St.
Amand, Dr. Masters, 4c., 8s. per dozen.

Nasturtium, fine double rod variety, Hermine Graahoff, Is.
per dozen ; also Tom Thumb (crimson), Ruby King, Empress
pf India (dark crimson). King Theodore (black), 8d. per dozen.

Heliotropes, strong-rooted plants. Is. per dozen.

Fuchsias, stroug-rooted plants, 2s. per dozen, including BUch
gs Ayalanphc, Edelweiss, Lucy Finnis, and American Banner.

Dahlias, single, strong seedlings, fine named, Is. per dozen.
„ single pot roots, named, 2s. 6d. dozen.

,. fine show and fancy varieties, 3s. per dozen.

g ladiolus, a flue collodion of named kinds, is. to 6s. por doz.
ardy herbaceous and alpine plants, a good collection of
800 kinds, 3s. doz., 20s. per 1<X).

Asters, Pseony-fl., from collections, 6d. per score.

Htocks (dwarf), German Ten-weak, double. 6d. per score.
Marigolds, French, selected, 6d. per soore.

„ African, selected, 6d. per score.

Musk, sweek-scented, 2s. per dozen.

Wallflowers, fine strong plants, in eight varieties, including
Harbinger, Golden Tom Thumb, Double German, Blood Red,
4c., 6d. per dozen, 4 b. per 100.

Satisfaction guaranteed, or money refunded.

All carriage paid. P.O.O. payable at BedaZe.

■pREDERICK BAX’S Parcels Post Collections

A of Vegetable seeds delivered free to any address in the
United Kingdom on receipt of remittance for 5s., 7s. 6cL, or 10s.
respectB aly.___

pREDERICK BAX’S Parcels Post Collection

A of choice Flower seeds delivered free to any address in
the United Kingdom on receipt of postal order for 2s. 6d., 5s.,
7s. 6<L, 10s., 21s. respectively._

pREDERICK BAX’S One Shilling Collection

A of 15 Hardy Annuals, with full cultural directions, free
by post o n receipt of I s.__

PREDERICK BAX, 143, Bishopsgate Street

A Without, London, E.C. ; 319. Mare Street, Hackney, E..

and High 8treet, Leyton, F ._

ORASSULA JASM1NEA, white sweet-scented
v greenhouse plant. Nice plants, full of bloom buds. Is
each, or post free, Is. 3d.

Chrysanthemums, best Incurved and Japanese varieties in
3-inch pots, turned out, 2s. 6d. per dozen.

Dahlias, 12 best single, including Paragon, White Queen,
Lutea, and Juarezi, the scarlet Cactus, 3s. 6d.

Dahli -s best show and fancy varieties, 3s. 6d. per dozen.
Fuchsias, best free flowering varieties, 3s. 6d. per dozen.
Delphi ilium, perennial Larkspur, line named sorts, is. per
dozen.

Louw... eardinalis. bright scarlet, hardy, 4s. per dozen.
Lychnis chalcedonica, fl. pi., scarlet, 4s
LLnothera macrocarpa, Evening Primrose, 4a. „

Pa paver bracteatum superbum, scarlet, 4s. „

Peiitstemon, beautiful tor cutting, 4s. „

Phlox, finest herbaceous varieties, 4s. „

Pyrethrum, best double-named sorts, 4s. „

Ranunculus speciosus, 4s. „

Violas, white, blue, purple, and yellow, 3s. ,,

All the above post free. Cash with order.—JAS. GARA-
WAY & CO., Du rdham Down, Cli fton, Bris toL_

‘PELARGONIUMS, best Show and Decorative

•L varieties, show flower, in 40 pots, 18s. per dozen, package
included. Cash with order.-JAS. CARAWAY 4 CO., Durd¬
ham Down, Clifton, Bristol.

fjYPRIPEDIUM INSIGNE.—This finest of

all cool orchids, strong flowering plants. Is. each; two.
Is. 9d. Lapageria alba (true), 18 inches, 7s.; 30 inches, 9s.;
50 inches, 12s. Gd. L. rosea, Is. 4d. each. Pernettya
mucronata, pink, wax-like berries, three Is.; Double Deutziu,
four Is. ; Sweet Bay, four Is. 2d.; Primula japonica, fine
flowering plants, four Is. 2d. ; Aquilegia glandulosa (true),
three 1 b. 2d.; Climbing Roses, four Is. 2d. All carriage paid.
—HENR Y 4 CO., Holmer Nursery, Amersham, Bucks

pOSES, ROSES, ROSES, on own roots; to

Ab clear ground.—8ix named varieties in vigorous health,
"s. 9d. doz.; Bengal Roses, flue bushes, 3s. 3d. doz.; Bouvardia
Humboldtii, four Is. 2d. ; Bignonia radicans, three Is. 2d.;
Chimonanthus fragrans, three Is. 2d. ; Clematis montana,
three Is. 2d.; Cydonia japonica, three Is. 2d.; Forsythia
viridissima, three Is. 2d.; Plumbago LarpenUe, three la 2d.;
Hydrangea Thus. Hogg, pure white, three Is. 2d.; Jasmlnum,
white, three Is. 2d. ; ditto yellow, three Is. 2d. All carriage
paid .—HENRY 4 CO., Holmer Nursery, Am era ham . Bucks.

rfiUBEROUS BEGONIA BULBS (started),

A from blooms 5 Inches across, three Is. 2d., 3s. 6d. doz.;
Cloves, white and crimson, four Is. 2d., 3s. dt z ; Double White
Campanula, Double Yellow Potentilla, Mule Pinks, Achillea
Ptarmica, fl. pt.. all 3s. doz., six Is. 9d.; Vinca major, bLx Is. ;
Vinca variegnta, four Is. ; Lobelia eardinalis splendent*,
flowering crowns, four Is. 2d. Double White Rocket, four
Is. 2d.; Yellow Paris Daisies, three Is. 2d.; White ditto, four
Is. 2d. All carriage paid.—HENRY 4 CO., Holmer Nursery,
Amersham, Bucks.

STRONG PLANTS, GERANIUMS, mixed,

KJ Is. 6d. dozen, 10s. 100. Wye Valley Ferns, 7s. 6d 100;
4<. 50: 2s. 6<L, 25; Primroses, 4s. 100, free —ATCHISON.
T / email, St. Bnavcl, Colefor d.__

PANSIES.—1*2 superb show or fancy Pansies,
-L in 12 distinct named kinds, 3s. Violas. - Choioe-named
kinds in great variety, 12 for 2s. Double White Rockets two
plants. Is., post free. Cash with order.—HERBERT SIMP¬
SON, Florist, CrQokes, near Sheffield

Digitized b

, Crookes, near Sheffield

Gov >gl<

JAMES LOOMES

Begs to state that the following Plants are now ready,
carefully packed ana post free :—
FUCHSIAS.—A grand collection. See last Saturday’s ad¬
vertisement list of 100 single and double varieties My
selection 2s. 6d per doz. Purchasers' selection 12 varieties, 4s
N.B.—Purchasers will please name a few more varieties than
those ordered, as some may be sold out.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS, including the choicest exhibition
varieties, some of which were mentioned in last week’s advertise
meat, 2s. per doz. : well-rooted plants for pots or garden.
Amateurs will be satisfied with my selection.

PHLOX, Perennial, strong rooted cuttings In variety from
a carefully selected collection, all colours, 3s. per doz., 6 for
Is. 9«1. These are most exoellent for cut bloom.

COLEUS (80 varieties), now ready, good plants of my well-
known A 1 varieties, which for colour and habit are unsur¬
passed, 2s. per doz., 6 for Is. 3d.

GERANIUMS, for the conservatory or window, 6 varieties,
good. 2.1 , 12 3s. 6d.

DAHLIAS, single and double varieties, from an unsurpassed
strain of true florists’ flowers, similar to those sent out last
year, 6 of each 2s. 3d.

COTTON, Sea Island and Georgia, for greenhouse or window
culture, 4 plants for Is.

MUSK HARRISONI. 6 for Is., 12 for Is. 8d
CORONILLA GLAUCA, BEGONIA KUCKERI. BE¬
GONIA PARVIFLORA and FUCHSIOrDES. 3d. each.

PASSION FLOWERS, good plants, blue, 9d. each, 2 for
Is. 3d.

EUPATORIUM REPARIUM. 3 for Is.

NICOTIANA AFFINIS, Scented Tobacco plant, 3 for la
SALVIAS—Heeri, dulcis, splendens, angustifolia, 4c., 3
strong plants la

MARGUERITES (Paris Daisies), white. 12 for la
BALSAMS, Cornelia and Rose flowered, from a select strain.
8 for Is.

ARTILLERY PLANTS, 3 for Is.; these make splendid
table plants.

ACACIAS, Julibrissa (Silk tree). Fern-like, 3 for la 3d.
TOMATOES, large red (good). 20 for Is., 50 for 2s.
VERONICA salicifolia, 3 for la
CANNAS, 9 varieties for 3s., 2 var., la
TRADESCANTIA (2 varieties!. 4 for la
TROP/EOLUM. Canadensis, 6 plants 9tl
BRYOPHYLLUM CALYCINUM.-Interesting plant: a
leaf suspended in the air will produce young plants, la each.
Thick ornamental foliage.

VIOLETS (The Czar), extra strong plants Is 9d. per doz. ;
these are very floriferouB.

GREVTLLEA ROBU8TA —One of the prettiest and most
durable table plants in cultivation. Fern-like, 8d. each, 2
for la 2d.

CASTOR OIL PLANTS (8 varieties). 4 for Is 2d.
PETUNIAS, Choice, Carter’s strain. 2s. per doz.

STOCKS, ten-week, finest imported large flowering, 24 for
la, 100 3s. fid.

ASTERS, German, Chinese, Victoria, Bettridge's, 4c., 34
for la, 100 3s. 6d.

PHLOX DRUMMONDIL— From imported seed, mixed
colours, 24 for Is., 50 for la 9d., 100 for 3s.

VEGETABLE MARROW PLANTS.-Mores cream, 4 for
Is. 2d. : Custard Marrow same price.

HONESTY (the best policy), 6 plants for Is. 2d.; "Fireball”
Everlastings, 24 for la ; 6s. worth of plants for 5s.. 13s. worth
for 10s. as before. No order under la executed.

JAMES LOOMES, f.r.h.8..

The Nurseries, Whittlesey, near Peterboro'.

GERANIUMS.—Well-rooted cuttings, Won-

* derful and Madame Thibant, la 3d. dozen, 7s. 100;
Christinej White Clipper, White Vesuvius, and Happy
Thought Is. 6d. dozen, 8s. 100; Master Christine Is. 8d
lozen, 9s. 100; Golden Bronze 2s. dozen, 12 varieties, la 3d.
Al' free by parcels post —JAMES BURTON, North Bridge-
-treet, Robertsbridge, Sussex.

WORTH KNOWING.—How to grow Cauli-

* » flowers, etc., without clubbing, 12 stampa—HUGHES,

Gardener, Wilmalow, Cheshire. __

F ERNS from Devonshire, Cornwall, and

Somerset. Boat time to plant. Instruction book for
making rockery, planting Ferns, etc., with each 5s. order; 14
named varieties. 6s. per 125; parcel post, 30 good plants, 2s. 6d.
Two choice FILMY FERNS (Hymenophyllum tunbridgenre
and unilaterale), 2s. per foot, free. 1,000 varieties, British ard
Exotic Ferns. Catalogues, 2d. Established 25 years.—E.
GILL, Lodging-house Keejier, Lynton, Devon. _ _

P R IMMEDIATE SALE, a splendid Stock

of SPECIMEN PLANTS for Exhibition purposes.
—Lists from J. C. P ADM AN, Providei-.ce Nursery, Bostou
Spa.JYorkshire.__

HOLDEN FEATHER, very good plants, la. per

vT loo, or la 9d. por 200; carefully packed in boxes; post
free.—AMATEUR. The Lodge, Chester-le-Street, Durham.

HLASS for horticultural purposes in cases and

VJ boxes, 15-oz. and 21-oz.; Propagating glasses, Bee glasses,
hand lights, 4c. Leaded windows, plain and ornamental

? :la«H of every description. Cheapest house in the trade. Semi
or illustrated circular and price list to EADE 4 SON, 130,
High Holborn, London, W.C.

GREENHOUSES FOR THE MILLION.—

'J ALFRED PEF.L & SONS’ Old-established Yorkshire
Horticultural Works. High Street, Wood Green, London;
also Valley Street, Windhfll, Shipley, Yorkshire. Inventors
of the portable Greenhouses; The Amateur Span-roof, 8 feet
by 5 feet, £3; Lean-to, 50s. ; 10 feet by 7 feet Span-roof, £4;
Conservatories from £5. Over 3,000 erected in all parts of the
kingdom. See ouriCatalogues, Testimonials, Press Opinions,
post-free, three stamps. Inspection invited of houses erected
at our works. Estimates given tor all kinds of Horticultural
Buildings, Tool Houses, Potting Houses, Poultry Houses,
Bicycle and Tricycle Houses. See our new Chrysanthemum
Houses. Heating Apparatus from 6s. each. N.B.—Note
name and address.

PORTABLE LEAN-TO GREENHOUSE, 12ft.

•L by 7 ft., £9 10s.: span-roof greenhouse, 12 ft. by 7 ft., £10,
including glass and stages; carriage paid to any station in Eng¬
land. Illustrated price lists po3t free —A. P. JOHNSON,
Horticultural Builder, Wilmington, Hull.

PORTABLE GREENHOUSES.—Lean-to, 7

I feet hv 4 feet 3 inches, £5; Span-roof, 8 feet by 6 feet,
£9 5s. All painted and glazed complete. Catalogue free.—
H. BRUIN, Belvoir Street. Leicester.

■pEGONIA TUBERS, mixed colours, for

aJ bedding or conservatory, 4s. per dozen; six for 2s. 2d,
post free. P.O.O. or stamps with order.—JOHN LAING 4
CO., Forest HILL, 8.E._

■yERBENAS that’s never surpassed, 2s. per

* do/..; Mann’s International African Marigold, 9d. per

doz. All post free.—RD. MANN, Howden Dyke, Howden,
E. Yorks.

C. FRAZER,

Horticultural Builder, Norwich*

anti Corner Fastenings. Made of best Red Deal, ejg
ends 1J inches thick, lights 2 inches thick. Chad
21-oz. glass, and painted four coats of good oil a
No. 1 size, 4 feet by 6 feet, £2 17a. No. 2 size, 8 («t
feet, £4 10s. No. 3 size. 12 feet by 6 feet, £6 5* 64
cases from 4s. to 6a. 6d. Two-thirds allowed when n

The “Universal" Haiuliight Protectors for Id tehee
»et of 6, covers 31 square feet, diminishing sizet
coats of good oil colour, glazed with 21-oz. gisa, |C

Cucumber Frames, made of best Red Deal, painted 4
good oil colour, height at frout 13 inches, at hack 34
lights 2 inches thick, with improved ban and
21-oz. glass; iron bar across centre and handle to «ck
No. 2 size, 8 feet by 6 feet, £3 4s. 6<L No. 3 size, 12
feet, £4 12s 6d. Cases 5e.; two-thirds allowed if
good condition.

Carriage paid to any Railway Station in Rngted
Wules, also to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Dublin, and Belli*.

Illustrated catalogues of Greenhouses, Garden Fras*
post-freo two penny stamps.

TUBULAR STANDAR

GARDENERS opght to know that POINTED
iron TUBULAR RODS are now mode for sup oru to
Shrubs, and Plants, and are specially adapted for
Roses and Raspberry Canes. They cannot be brotas
look neater than anything else in use. A trial of
sure to give satisfaction.

I lin. external diameter, by 4ft. long, 2s 94.;*

Prices r*-

tin. „ ,, ____ .

Jin. „ „ 6ft. ,. 6 l fid )

I Jin. „ „ 8ft. 7s fid

Goods sent off on receipt of postal orders Lou ortf £*■

value, carriage paid.

Sole Makers: EDWIN LEWIS ft SONS.
Patent Iron Turk Works, Wolverrampws

the -EASY- LAWN MOWER.

WITH ALL THE LiTIST Q

4 Has an open Steel E**
which, with careful cotzra
tion in other part*,
a thild to works

a mun a 40-inch nis-hai

Apply for list to id
monger or Seedsman, or
to the Sole Licensees

SELIG, 80 XSEJTHAL ‘
CO , 85, dueen Victoria Sr*
Loudon. JS C.

CLIVE’S PATENT SEED ANC
FRUIT PROTECTOR.

A certain protection for Fruit, Seeds. Ac.
ravages of Birds or Vermin. The scare represents * ~
of pfey hovering over Its victim. Its outstretched
measure about three feet across. Price 24i per 4*-
obtained at most Ironmongers and Seedsmen, ortfltf®*
had direct from the makers upon receipt of remittar.cse *
spectuses free on application Postal address--
and CLIVE, Birmingham. Telegraph-DASR Binn ing

SCISSORS.—Vine scissors, 6 in., Is. 6d.
kJ Is. 10d.; 7in„ 2s. 2d. Pruning, 4 in , li 6d.*.5j%'
6 In., 2e. 4d.; 7 in., 3s. Flower gatherers, 6 in,

2b. 9d.; 7 in., 3s 3d Propagating, fine jwtotiL 3* «

prices pt r pair; ad post fiee.—W. WILKINSON. }

oad. Sheffield.

NOIS AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Yol. VI.

MAY 17, 1884.

No. 271.

tOOSE <fe WINDOW GARDENING.

TREATMENT OP WINDOW PLANTS.

HE requirements for the successful manage-
nent of window plants are neither numerous
nr difficult ; yet more disappointment and
iilures result than in any other branch of
mateur gardening. One of the first require¬
ments is a genuine love for plants, without
vhieh the many necessary little attentions are
nre to be omitted, and the plants will suffer
uicordingly. It may be stated as a guiding
'tile that the greater the care the greater the
uccess. The majority of plants require all the
ight it is possible to give them, with as much
nnshine as the position and the structure will
Imit. As a rule those plants exposed to the
aorning sunshine thrive better than those
.aving exposure to the afternoon beams only—
his applies particularly to flowering plants.
Hants grown for the beauty or elegance of their
saves, as, for example, Palms, Ferns, and
begonias, will thrive in windows which either
re not exposed at all to direct sunshine, or for
nly a short time each day. But the light
hould lie admitted directly to the windows,
nd not shaded by overhanging roofs. Plants
eqnire nutritious soil. The best general soil is
urf from a rich pasture, cut about 2J inches
hick, laid closely together until it has some-
hat decayed, then broken up and mixed with
bout one-third of very rotten manure or leaf
lould. The leaf soil can generally he found
a flaky-like forms beneath Oak, Chestnut, or
ther large trees where standing thickly to¬
gether. Where such soil cannot be obtained, a
»>od substitute may be found in the rich soil
isily obtained from hedge banks and in comers
f most fields by the sides of the fence,
'hose living in cities can always obtain suitable
oil from florists.

periencc is that you can no more grow a plant
successfully in a pot in poor or w ? orn-out soil
than you can take a crop of corn or any other
crop from the same soil ten years in succession
without enriching. For stimulants, use 1 ounce
of Peruvian guano to three gallons of water.
Soapsuds or water with ammonia in it that has
been used for w'ashing hands are all good ; or
the top of the soil in each pot may be removed
to the depth of from half an inch to one inch,
a sprinkling of fine bone meal (which can be had
at all florists’ shops) applied, and then covered
up with fresh soil. Besides, there are a good
many preparations of concentrated manures
that are good and easily applied. Plants in
warm rooms should be w'atered with water as
warm as the temperature of the room, or a little
warmer.

Insect Pests.

These are often a great annoyance, and often
cause considerable trouble, from the fact that
they do harm before being discovered. It is
quite safe to subject all plants to an occasional
bath of Tobacco water, in strength about the
colour of strong tea or w’eak coffee ; this can be
easily made from the refuse stems from cigar
makers or a small package of the common
smoking Tobacco, by placing it in a pail and
pouring over it boiling water, allowing it to
stand all night, and then immersing the head of
the plant entirely, and holding it so for a few
seconds. This will destroy both green fly and
red spider ; other insects, such as the white
cotton-like, mealy bug, must be picked off with
a sharp-pointed stick, and the very tight-
sticking, scale-like insects will have to be
removed in the same way. In immersing plants,
with one hand press tightly on the top of the
pot and turn it upside down before holding it
over the vessel ; this will allow all loose soil to
escape and thus keep the liquid clean.

Potting.

Watering.

This is of the greatest importance, and this
nmt be done rightly. Nine-tenths of the
ulures in window gardening can be attributed
o improper watering, either too much or too
ittle—in many cases too much. You cannot
vater any plant by rule of thumb. We fre-
luently hear, “ I cannot think how it is my
viiulow plants do not do well for I water them
very day.” This is likely to be the cause of
heir not doin* well. Whenever you w’ater a
lant, always give sufficient to soak the wdiole
luss of soil thoroughly ; then do not w'ater it
igain until it show's signs of dryness on the
urface. It may not be for two or three days or
ven longer, but no matter ; do not w’ater it
intil you are sure of its being in a slightly dry
undition. On the other hand some plants re-
1'aire water tw’ice a day, especially when the
pots are full of roots, and the plants are growing
vigorously and flowering profusely. The leaves
uf plants must be kept clean and free from dust;
those with bright, shining leaves aud of good
sue can be wiped with a sponge or other soft
material. Others with smaller leaves can only
te cleaned by being showered overhead either
with a sprinkler or syringe, and it should be
done either once or twice a week. Do not allow'
plants to stand in water except such as are
•quatic. If the water touches the bottom of
tbs pots a good plan is to have a smaller saucer
1 upside down for the plant to stand upon
i the other saucer, or even small blocks of
l wood or any other material that w’ill hold
— bottom of the pot above the water-line,
f'therwiae remember to empty out the water
that drains into the saucers. Plants delight in
fwd living, and w’hen the pots become crowded
*ith loots they should be stimulated, but not
wtil then, unless they have been a long time in
name pots, and it is impossible to renew the
“dor give larger pots. We are particular in
,4 ding attention to this matter of stimulating
^ow plants from the fact that a theory is
being extensively circulated, to the effect
tut plants grown in pots do not require any
•twmlants, or at the most vej ~

Digitized b->

e Co 0u §ft

All plants should liavo either new' pots, or old
pots washed perfectly clean inside and out.
Broken pieces of pots must be used for drainage
by first placing one of good size, w'ith the hollow
side downwards, over the hole, then filling in
with other pieces to about one-third of the
depth ; over this place a little rough soil, then
put the plant in its place, fill it compactly all
round, press tightly so as to have the soil within
half an inch of the top in pots of small size,
and in larger pots allow' an inch for water room,
and all plants newly potted should be well
soaked so as to be sure the w'hole is saturated.
We have not named any particular time to pot
or repot plants, but it is desirable to change the
soil at least once a year, and in cases w'here the
pots are already large enough, there is no diffi¬
culty in washing away the old soil so as to use
the same sized pots again ; wdiere plants are
potted but once a year, the end of February or
beginning of March is the best time ; but as
plants fill the pots with roots they can be
moved into pots a size or two larger at any
time.

Plants Suitable for Windows.

To obtain the best results w'e must divide our
collection into two sections—the first to embrace
such as will do w r ell in rooms w’here the tempe¬
rature exceeds 65 degrees Fahr., and the second
where the temperature does not exceed 65
degrees nor fall lower than 40 degrees.
This must be understood to mean where the
heat is artificial and not sun heat; and we may
say a slight variation for a few hours at a time
will not be injurious should the temperature
rise or fall. First ou our list stand Begonias.
These embrace several distinct characteristics.
The shrubby flowering species, generally with
bright, clean leaves, give general satisfaction,
and if properly watered and put where they can
have a little sun, flow’er persistently all the
W'inter; such os Saundersoui, hybrida multi-
flora, Weltoniensis, semperflorens, the brilliant
B. rubra and insignia should be included in a
limited collection. These do not include nearly
all of this section, but are easily managed.
Another class of Begonias is the Rex type, with

beautifully-marked leaves of all shades of green
and silvery white. These require a rather
shady position and a moist atmosphere ; in fact,
they must have a good degree of moisture
atmospherically or they are unsatisfactory.
They are impatient if subjected to too much
w'ater at the roots or too much dust. Cala-
diums, with many-coloured, spotted, striped,
and mottled leaves, are very handsome plants
for summer, and can be started in small pots in
March in the warmest corner, repotted as they
grow into pots of 4 inches or 5 inches in diameter,
and by the time other plants have to be removed
out of doors these will be fine objects all summer.
Dracaenas are elegant plants and easily managed.
The varieties tenninalis, Guilfoylei, Cooperi,
and amabilis are grown in great numbers for
window's, and if w'ell treated, they w'ill give
satisfactory results. Ferns succeed in the
shadiest windows ; they require but little at¬
tention, and are always graceful and cheering.
They must be kept well supplied with water,
and occasionally nathed or syringed. This is
about all the cultivation required. A few beau¬
tiful varieties are Adiantum cuneatum, A.
capillis veneris, A. trapeziforme, Davallia
tenuifolia, Lomaria gibba, Microlepia hirta
cristata, Nephrolepia davallioides furcans and
Pteris cretica albolineata, not forgetting a few'
varieties of Selaginellas or Lycopodiums. The
Ficus elasticaor indiarubber tree is well known,
and might almost be called the indestructible
plant. With its bold and leathery leaves, its
free and noble carriage, it bids defiance to dust
and smoke alike, provided always it has plenty
to drink, with occasionally stimulants added.
These remarks also apply to Aspidistra lurida,
one of the best of all room plants. Palms, the
aristocracy among fine foliaged. plants, are
mostly very easy to manage, requiring a good
deal of water and not necessarily very large
pots ; they thrive well in a partially shaded
window. A few fine kinds are Areca lutescens,
Caryota urens, Latania borbonica, and Oredoxa
regia. They can be used for various purposes
of table decoration.

The secornl section contains a more extended
list of flowering plants, and not so large a list of
fine foliage plants. Beginning with Abutilons,
w ? e have a class of elegant free-flowering winter¬
blooming plants, embracing white, yellow,
orange, and deep red. They w'ill thrive in a
partially-shaded window, and adapt themselves
to any mode of training. They can be trimmed
into either standard or any other form, and w'ill
flower continuously. Azaleas are very beautiful,
easily managed, but rather impatient if sub¬
jected to a ary atmosphere or allowed to get
dry ; in fact, they should never be allowed to
get dry at the roots either winter or summer.
A frequent bath, immersing plant and pot, is a
safeguard against drought and otherwise bene¬
ficial. A partially shaded window aud a shady
spot out of doors in summer will give them
about all they require. As to varieties,
there are no poor ones, and most florists
have a good selection. This brings us to
another very popular flower—the Camellia—one
of the very easiest plants to manage, but, un¬
fortunately, generally a rather unsatisfactory
window' plant, from the fact of its being so very
conservative. It does not show any abuse at
the moment, and not even for months ; but, alas !
it breaks dowm, aud its apparent fine large buds
drop off one by one until none are left. This, in
nine coses out of ten, is from the plant being
allow'ed to suffer for want of water in the summer
time. Those curious enough to open one of the
fallen buds will find generally the outside of the
flower quite fresh, but the centre alw'ays dis¬
coloured and dead. With well-drained pots it
is almost impossible to give Camellias too much
water in summer, and the same treatment and
position as advised for Azaleas will exactly suit
Camellias. Calla Lily (Riehardia a;thiopica) is
another very popular window plant, and yet not
very generally successfully managed. Those
having plants of it will do well to keep them
growing in a light, sunny wiiiddw ; if thoy have
not flowered, do:not lose patience and ipt them

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

114

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[May 17,1:

in the background ; l>ear with them until the
1st of May ; then tiud some shaded, damp corner
in the garden ; in this plunge your plant over
the rim of the pot : about twice a week during
the summer carry along with you a watering-can
of soapy water and give your Calla a dose of it.
Towards the middle of September lift them, and
if the pot appears too small for the plant, get a
pot one or two sizes larger; turn it out, and
place it in the larger pot without breaking the
roots ; then stand it in the lightest sunny window.
As it begins to grow give it plenty of water and
often some stimulants, and by Christmas, if
these directions are followed, you are sure to
have flowers. After the flower-buds are
in sight, you can place the plant in a very
warm position without injury. Carnations
are always favourites, and should be very
satisfactory plants ; they can always lie had
established in pots in the autumn. They
delight in a rich soil, a rather low temperature,
and plenty of sun. Those desiring to grow
their own plants should plant small ones in the
open ground in May, in a sunny position,
occasionally cutting off their tops to make them
bushy, until the end of July, after which
they should be allowed to grow. At the
beginning of September lift them carefully
with balls of earth and place them in pots well
drained ; put them in some shady place, and
after they begin to grow', and before frost,
remove them into the house.

A few Chrysanthemums should be planted at
the same time as the Carnations, and subjected
to precisely the same treatment, or a few can be
plunged in pots and watered as often as
required. Those who have a window should
have some of these, the most beautiful of all
autumn flowers. Daphne iudica, two varieties,
are easily managed, and perhaps the most
deliciously-perfumed winter flowering plauts we
have, requiring about the same treatment as
Azaleas. Fuchsias can be made to flower quite
early in the spring. They require good drainage,
a light, porous soil, a somewhat sunny position
in winter, slight shade in summer, and a
rather moist atmosphere. Geraniums (these
are really Pelargoniums, but w ? e seem to have
got so used to the name Geranium, it is a
hard matter to believe any other) are for a
light, sunny window, where the temperature
can be kept about 55 deg. to 60 deg., the best of
all winter-flowering plants, and all growers
should have among their collection both double
and single varieties, especially some of the finer
forms of the single kinds. They are so easily
managed and so continuously in flower, it would
seem there ought to be no dearth of flcwers
where there are half-a-dozen kinds. Some
window gardeners expect to have their w indow s
gay all winter and their flower gardens gay all
summer with the same plants. This cannot be
done ; those plants intended for winter flower¬
ing should be nicely rooted plants in May, then
potted into small pots and plunged in the open
ground, the flowers to be kept picked off all
summer. About the middle of August they
should be potted into good soil in w ell-drained
pots of 4 inches or 5 inches in diameter, placed
in some spot where they will have a little sun
morning or evening, but not plunged as before.
After the beginning of September take them
inside, and place them in the sunniest window
you have, water well, and carefully turn the
plants round from time to time to keep them in
good shape ; as the pots get full of roots, give a
little stimulant at least once a week, and there
will be no dearth of flow’ers. If old plants are
kept over, they should not be allowed to flow'er
during the summer, but treated as advised for
young plants.

, Miscellaneous Plants.

Those desirous of a few more Ferns for a cool
room should add to the list already given—
Crytomium Fortunei, Lastrea aristata variegata,
Nephrolepis tuberosa, Pteris argyrea and
treinula. Other Palms could be added also for
growing in a cold window, as Areca rubra, the
three Chammrops, excelsa, Fortunei, and
humilis; Corypha australis, and Neaforthia
elegans. Chinese Primulas, Cyclamens, and
Cinerarias are good plants, easily obtained, and
requiring about the same treatment as that re¬
commended for Geraniums after being brought
into the house. These do not exhaust half the
window" plants available. There arc a f ew others
which should ]^e included injfirjist, such as
Digitized by

G eluded in cfer li

o gTe

Ivy, German Ivy, Lygouium scandens, and
Smiiax as climl>ers. And for basket and bracket
plants use Othonna crassifolia, the different
Tradesc&utias, Creeping Jeuny, and several
other kinds that will present themselves to the
enthusiastic window gardener. The disposition
and training of the various plants may be left to
the cultivator, but it is best always to consult
the general habit of the plant, and not to force
it into a shape and position that prevent
healthy growth and development. As with the
training so with the grouping or arrangement of
plants in baskets, stands or jardinieres, it can
be left to individual taste. Where it is not de¬
sirable to disturb plants by repotting, they can
l>e placed inside larger pots and the interstices
filled up with either Moss or fine soil. On all
favourable opportunities air should be ad¬
mitted for a few' minutes or longer each day ;
but as window' plants are not expected to have
all their requirements as if grown in a structure
expressly for that purpose, we must do the best
w'e can under the circumstances. I have made
no mention of bulbous plants, but I may add
that many of these are also very beautiful.

John Thorpe.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

THE TENBY DAFFODIL.

Of all the many forms of Daffodils now' in
cultivation this is one of the best. Our
illustration gives a good idea of the size and

The Tenby Daffodil.

form of the flow'er, but of course no idea of
the rich intensity of its yellow' hue. It is
very hardy, of dwarf, robust habit of growth,
and it blooms very early along w’ith N. nanus
and N. maximus. It is supposed by nearly all
authorities, both ancient and modern, to be
a native of Spain, but it is abundantly
naturalised near Tenby, in Wales, and, as
I am recently informed, it has existed in
Ireland in one spot near Gorey, in Co. Wex¬
ford, for at least the post sixty years.
We may not he able to clear up the exact
time of its introduction from its native country,
nor whether it came to this country direct or
otherwise, but it still remains to us a fact that
so good and show’y a Daffodil is plentiful and
easily cultivated in all soils and localities. I
consider it equal to any other Daffodil as regards
lieauty, and well worth growing in quantity
along with N. maximus, N. Horsfieldi, N.
Emperor, N. princeps, N. moschatus, and N.
cemuus—all Daffodils of irreproachable value in
most gardens. BNlf

GARDENING ON WALLS.

In the Botanical Gardens at Edgbaston (
mingham) there are two Scotch Firs, fifty y
old or more, growing out of the topmost y
of the brickwork of one of the high vj
bounding the garden. They probably sp:
from seed accidentally carried to the snot,
are now about three feet high, gnertai i
stunted in growth, but with a certain pict_
esqueness of effect, calling to mind the guJJ
dw'arfed trees so much in favour with
Japanese. The brickwork is constantly lx
lifted and thrown out of place by the actio;
the roots, but the trees are allow ed to reroaiij
a curiosity. No one, of course, would ph
trees purposely in such a position; but f
Scotch Firs are suggestive, nevertheless,
wall-gardening is a subject of so much gtoaf
interest that notes on suitable methods,
plants for the purpose, are seldom altog*
unacceptable. Instances of unexpected ami
markable w’all growths are familiar to all,
are useful, lx;yond their own beauty
curiosity, in showing what may be done
those w r ho are willing to aid Nature with m
degree of knowdedge and skill. Wall-ganf
ing, however, is not quite so easy in mac
as it might seem to be. I have myself so
seeds without number, and tucked scorfc
little plants into the crevices of old wi|
doubtless with occasional good luck, bnt f
result has not been equal to the expendin
of time and labour. The birds of the air.
an hungry eye, have discovered the new :\e{|
ing ground, or a scorching sun has come os
unseasonably, to dry up the tender seedh
before it has had time to take hold, or one
the hundred mishaps which are apt to
has ruined the chance of success. In nine ca*
out of ten, in fact, it has been labour lost [>J|
there are ways of managing this some?
troublesome process, anti a hint thru
out by Mr. Latham, the curator oi ti
Birmingham Garden, on this subject, stnx
me as being so valuable that it ougl
to be noted, for the benefit of those in
W'ish to make their old w'alls beautiful. He i
commends any seeds about to be used for ti
purpose to be mixed w'ith a small quantity
ordinary moist clay, and so plastered into r 1
crevice of the wall. The retentive nature
the clay enables it to keep its moisture lod
enough for the germination of the seed,
fixes the young plant securely in its place. 1
affords, also, a certain resistance to the adit
both of hot sun and heavy rain, which gives
seedling a chance of life during its earliest
The practical value of the plan is obr/»
enough when once suggested, but it may
have occurred to others any more than
myself, who have, nevertheless, given
consideration to the difficulty of estahlhbtrf
plants upon walls. Probably the same methrl
—of packing the roots in moist clay—
answ’er equally well, if done with judgment if
the case of inserting small plants into 9 uitoM
chinks ; for it is astonishing how quickly ta
most tender fibres find their w'ay out of anew
genial soil into any rooting medium that then
like, if any such be within their reach.

In Making a Newt Wall
Of this kind it is generally desirable that ^
should be covered with vegetation as spee-hlf
as may be ; and it is an excellent plan to bni!
in the plants during its progress. I know
such a wall about three feet high, the object -
which is to give a perpendicular facing to
bank of soil on which grow Alpines of nuijr
species, W’ith a background, further away, >11
flowering shrubs and Roses. It has not
planted many years, but the charming effeor«
the varied rock plants which run over the wf
of the border, and now almost cover its surM
seeding when and where they pl^ 1
one of the distinctive features of a
delightful garden. Here creeping Campwm* f
spread their tufts of blue or white bell
London Pride throws up its cloud of pink aprli J
against the rough-hewn stone, disproving one
for all the charge of “ commonness,” v> oW \
brought against this dainty saxifrage—-for j
plant must be seen in its right place ’
judgment can be passed upon its merit )
There, too, the Alpine Toadflax casts broaT-i*
its rich purple and orange, and the white dJ
of the Corsican Sandwort brighten the mu* j
lifcc: foliage whjeh clings so close -to the

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Mat 1?, 1884]

Gardening illustratee

115

e wall. Numberless forms anil tints of
ifage are to be found draping that low wall,
lich is a garden in itself, and it is seldom, at
y season, that it is altogether devoid of the
louring of flowers as well, from one or other
the groups of plants which have made their
me upon it. For herein lies the great charm
a wall garden. Once get plants fairly
tablished and they will creep al>out its
rfoce and clamber upwards from its base, at
eir own sweet will, forming such graceful
itoons of drapery as far surpass the results of
y training which can be attempted. Some
ars ago a trial was made of building a
•How wall for the express purpose of cultivating
ck plants. It was constructed of perforated
ieka, and — where stone is not available—
ere seems to be no good reason why such
plan should not answer in other cases. The
icks were of ordinary shape, with three or
ur oblong holes passing through them, which,
common with the centre of the wall, were
koked with suitable soil, so that plants could
easily introduced into the apertures. The
irpose of the wall in question was to hide some
isightly outbuildings, - and the choice lay
tween an ordinary fence or wall upon which
imbers could be trained, or the Alpine wall
re described, and the experiment proved very
ccessfal. But without going to special ex-
nse of this kind, there are in most gardens—
rtainly about most country premises—bits of
1 wall which might with advantage be covered
itb flowering plants.

For Lessons in Wall-Gardening
We have not far to seek. Any country walk
ill offer plenty of suggestions. The pale-green,
*ply-cut leaves of that handsome Poppy-wort,
e Greater Celandine (Chelidonium majus), or
e massive glaucous foliage anil the crimson
)wers of the Spur valerian (Centranthus ruber)
ve bold examples of natural grouping. Herb
obert(Geranium Robertianum), with its beauti
1 brown leaves flushing into crimson in the
itumn, and its red stems, may be seen fringing
most any old wall, and sometimes a mass of
ie bright scarlet-tinted leaves and pink flowers
the shining Cranesbill (G. lucidum) astonishes
i with its beauty. A summer or two ago,
om my own window, a farmhouse garden
all, running over with yellow' and pink-white
conecrops, and crowned with large ox-eye
aisies, made a natural picture very pleasant to
■ok upon for a length of time. If we follow
ature, substituting, it may be, rarer species in
lr gardens for those which can be had without
ie planting outside of them, we cannot go far
rong. Many of the Carnation tribe, for
stance, grow naturally upon walls. One
itive plant, which is daily becoming more
ire in a wild state, the Cheddar pink (Dian-
ms Kesius), should not be overlooked, and
lere are single Alpine Pinks of many kinds
hich would do well on a wall. Two distinct
od hardy species desirable so to establish are
ie Sand-pink (D. arenarius), and the purple-
owered Toothed Pink (D. dentosus). In
iature, again, w*e find many of the Fig-w'orts—
^presented by the Snapdragon and Toadflax—
rowing spontaneously upon our walls,
imongst the very best of Alpine wall-plants
elongmg to this tribe are the two species of
irinus, very distinct from each other and easily
■dablished, but not so often met wdth as
hey might be ; for well grown masses of the
aloe or white E. alpinus, or the less-known
■ink-flowered E. hispanicus, are very bright
nd showy. Another plant not often seen is
he trailing Italian Snapdragon (Antirrhinum
•sarinum), with its large twin-flowers of pale
smon colour, which invariably dies from damp
n a level border, but would probably be able
o hold its own through an ordinary winter if
et upon a wall. The small pink or white Bind-
***1 may sometimes l>e noticed quite at home
« the top of a crumbling wall; and it is not at
unlikely that the beautiful Rock Bindweed
Convolvulus mauritanicus), being a first-rate
perennial, if kept dry during winter,
aught be established with a little pains in a
•uailar position. No plant could be better
1J wth the trial. Two Alpine Cranesbills
' ( Cranium cinereum and G. subcaulescens)
‘flight worthily represent the Gcraniacem.
Nothing can exceed in beauty, however, the

in any garden. In this way we may run
through many different tribes of the plants
for ourselves, selecting subjects here and
there, which, once coaxed to fill an appro¬
priate niche, will give us endless pleasure.
Amongst suitable plants for establishing on
the top of hot, dry walls, none are more
inviting than certain kinds of succulents. It
is much to be desired that some of our best
gardeners should take the Mesembryanthemum
in hand for this purpose, looking up the finest
species and trying to fix them in such pro¬
minent positions as will best display their
marvellous beauty when in flower, growing as
they do under conditions which would destroy
most other forms of vegetable life. It is true
that it could not be done everywhere, but there
arepositions-on asunny terrace wall, forexample,
in a south aspect—where they would amply
repay any trouble taken to cultivate them.

In making these remarks it is not forgotten
that wall space is as valuable—if indeed not
more so—than any other part of our garden
property. But w r e often lose a good deal by
not making use of small opportunities. A single
well-grown tuft of some flowering plant upon
a wall, which interferes with nothing, arrests

season of the year. Other desirable species of
Mertensia are M. sibirica, paniculata, oblongi-
folia, the two latter natives of the Rocky
Mountains and perfectly hardy. M. paniculata
is a particularly desirable plant — considered
indeed when well grown to be the finest of the
genus. It has erect much-branched stems H
feet to 2 feet high, bearing an abundance of
bright Bluebell-shaped blossoms for several
w'eeks in succession during early spring. Our
drawing of the Virginian Lungwort was made
from specimens brought to us last year by Mr.
J. Stevens, who grows it admirably in his
garden at Grasmere, Byfleet.

RAISING VERBENAS FROM SEED.

Tiierk can be but one opinion respecting the
future of the Verbena, and that is, it must bo
treated as an annual. No one, perhaps, regrets
this more than I do, for time was when it w r as
used largely for bedding, a purpose for which
few plants are better adapted. I am old
enough to remember the advent of that
! excellent variety, Defiance; as a scarlet-
I flowered Verbena for bedding it has not, either

The Virginian Lungwort (Mertensia virginica.)

the attention, simply for the reason we do not
expect it to be there. The more of such plea¬
sant surprises we can prepare the better.

THE VIRGINIAN LUNGWORT.
(mertensia virginica.)

One would scarcely believe that such an old and
beautiful hardy flower as this is but little known
in ordinary gardens, but such is the case, and
even in good gardens it is rarely to be met with.
Its beauty is unquestionable. It bears large 1
clusters of bell-shaped blossoms varying from a
reddish mauve to a delicate porcelain-blue, and
the bluish glaucous hue of the broad foliage
blends beautifully with the tints of the flowers.
It grows, as a rule, from 1 foot to 2 feet high,
but varies considerably in stature according to
its vigour. The chief reason, no doubt, why
this Lungwort is an uncommon border flower is
on account of its culture —a precarious matter ;
in many gardens one never sees it making
the slightest progress, while in others it grows
rankly. The finest plants we have seen of it
were grown in moist, sandy peat, in somewhat
sheltered beds, conditions that evidently suited
its requirements. It is a plant that everybody

__..._ j , _, _ should at least try to cultivate, for it is very

»kite-flowered variety of G. Robertianum, | beautiful in the early days of May, quite unlike
^kich is uncommon cnough/fbTleiqand a.jjliJce^any other hardy plant that blooms at that

Digitizes b

igh^to^l^nynd a^lijce a

before or since, had an equal. At the time,
however, of which I am writing there were
many other varieties admirably adapted for
bedding ; but in the search for new kinds, such
as Mrs. Woodford, Emma, Woodwardiana, and
others of similar trailing habit, these have all
been lost, and the garden in consequence has
suffered, because the new introductions have
altogether proved to be indifferent bedilers.
This is, however, no good reason why the
Verbena should he banished from our gardens
altogether, because for those who do not object
to having a bed of mixed colours it is still
available. For this purpose the plant must be
raised from seed—a very simple matter.

Sowing.

The first step is to obtain seed that has been
saved from flowers of good substance and
various in colour. The earlier the seed is sown
after this date, too, the better ; and if when
sown it can have the advantage of artificial
heat, the plants will be larger, and consequently
will flower earlier than if raised in a cooler
temperature. Seed pans 6 inches deep and
from 12 inches to 16 inches over, are the best
for sowing the seed in ; these should be filled to
within an inch of the rim with fine light sandy
soil. After being well watered, the seed may
be Bown and thinly covered with light soil.
To induce j-ppwQinickly, thereds £<r

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

116

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Mat 17, 1884.

r ,_, whit* Gadn Nulli Mustapha. and Rosed’ Amour, freely in a cool house or frame, but will co»

better place for the pans than a Cucu j order grov ^ Crysanthemums successfully up more quickly in gentle warmth, only tk

Melon frame in which there “ ntilUie 1 continuously 8 in the°samc position, there must plants, when they arc well up,mii 8 t be nmovrf

heat, and where they can be shai rle . d i neC essarilv bo an annual transplanting and an to a cool situation, it will be better to pnck

young plants appear. \S hen once the> seedlings , Q y f gome kiud to the 8 ‘ a to prevent it them out when large enough in pans or bub*

are up they grow quickly, and as they advan , f exhauste d. In our case we lift and grow them thus this summer, wintering a

ingrowth more air and less heat are requ id. , pl an ta° early in May and divide them, a cold frame, and planting out next April

As soon as large enough the plants shou be ( about one-third of the youngest part to Alpine Auriculas like a shady situation,

put singly into 3 -inch pots, using no crock , i , & ^ and throw j ng the other away, they get plenty of light and not much sun. The

fine sandy soil. They should thenbe repl^ ^^Xilante ^vTblef grown for seve/al soil should be" rendered free Y -—

in a growing temperature unti the middle of ^ere th^pia^na e ^ ftU the old snugly all the winter.--J. C. B,

May, when they may * of ,j une soil from the wall in the form of a trench one 11460.—So wing flower seeds. -Chine*

and planted out in 8 ^ tment foot wide and one foot deep, and replace it with primulas and Wallflowers could be had in bloc*

Raising seedling Verbenas undercool^treatmenx j materia!. In cases where they have only by Christmas if sown now. Hepaticas would

has not been «- l ^ge well-prepared been planted one year in the same place we put no t flower for two years if raised from seed*

have sown them early in Ap s ^Q^red a bit of rotten manure on the surface, and mix sown at once. The Wallflower and Pnuuhi

sod m the open gro ’ omm ratively worthless, it up with the soil. The plants are then put m 8eeda would vegetate best if sown on a hot-bed?
so late that they -Greater^number of close to the wall, and except that in very dry and should be pricked out from the seed pans

I, however, found tha gmn when weather we give them an occasional soaking of or pots ag goon as the first leaf after the seed

seeds will gi^^h^^^^^t^n^the^eeds 1 which water they need no further attention till le J|. formed. The Wallflowers should*
sown in heat. Jwmpnt was about three August, when they will have grown sufficiently planted in the open ground, and the Primna*

grow' under the coo proportion ' to require some support to keep them close to mU8t be growm in pots. The first-named should

in five ; but X*<\TtZ the wall. This is effected by means of a couple ^ lifted and potted in October. The Hepatic

does not amoun ien ce for there are 1 of nails driven into the w'all and a bit of tar-cord 8eeda vegetate best on a shelf in the grw*

is, however, J . te better when not! tied to each and stretched in front of the plant. bo use Q r in a cold frame.—J. D E.

they d^wdth it. This operation will require to ^ -^ted as^he , 1465 ._ Daffodil3 not flowering.-If *

I have been more successful when I have sow'n grow'th extends up the wall, plants are growing well it is a wonder they k

seed in some deep boxes about the middle of remembered the nearer they are the w all the * for they will flower almost uj-

M a rch and then placed them in an ordinary ess effect rost has upon them I may ade that The ^ * laQ will * to let the. -

greenhouse, when large enough planting them 1 it is a good plan to thin out some of the stems where they are, and they will most likely

out^n other boxes, or potting them singly in early in summer where crowded, the result flower ^ ^ year . If dry , hot

small pots In this case the plants have com- being larger flowers.—J. C. C. should set in, give them liberal suppses d|

- ■ - ' ’ 1 - 11 o n A Winter Aconite and Snow Glory. - water. Manure water may be given occmu»

A very pretty combination in the floral way ad v Deep, moderately rich and well workd

suggested itself to me the other day. It is go {[ should be prepared for them when tust

this. How w T ell a bed of Snow Glory (Chiono- planted.—J. D. E.

I have found it best to delay me planning doxa Lucilm) would look if the bulbs were _ They have probably become too crowds

out until June, when the weather has not intermixed w'ith tubers of the winter Aconite BOOn ^ a dump is seen to become more leift
been favourable, and the result has been a (Eranthis hyemalis). Of course they would than flowering the bulbs should be transplant
stronger growth and an earlier show of flowers j no t fl ower together, but the Aconito would 8e ^ n _ the strongest of them 3 inches apart*

than if the young and tender plants had i en u ven the bed with its golden cups long before & ,-5.,.. u-:-

had to endure cold, rough w eather in exposed t he Chionodoxa appeared, but the bes __ ___

flower beds. I am rather inclined to believe j wou i d be seen just as the Sun Glory opened its ' 9 ^ ter pi an ting they usually So*®

that of late years we have made our soil too rich I uttle blue buds among the Fan Palm-like begt _j ^

for Verbenas ; they are excitable subjects, and , f 0 ii age Q f the Eranthis. Here, with us, the
in rinh soil thev make rapid pro- ! ninrv not onen its first flow'ers until

small pots. in v —~ 7 ,

menced to flower fairly well m August, and
have continued to do so until late in the autumn.

Planting*.

I have found it best to delay the planting

ior vciuciiai , -- 7 — .

when planted in rich soil they make rapid pro¬
gress for a time, but suddenly come to a stand¬
still when they have exhausted the soil near

lUlitvgc -— •

Snow Glory does not open its first flow'ers until
the Snowdrops have departed, or that would be
a combination very difficult to surpass. Iris

, . 1 T-l _1.1_

still when they nave exmiusicu me a comoination very ai- r

their roots, and this generally occurs wffien we re ti C ulata and Eranthis is another good arrange-
get hot, dry weather in August. During my j men ^ no t j n a l>ed perhaps, but a good clump
experience I have not found anything better as I eacb 8 p de i,y 8 i de looks w'ell. In an old
a dressing for Verbena beds than well-rotted . g arden lately, I saw clumps of Narcissus Bulbo-
i_. o r.( fViAOA Hfrp.wn on the surface. I ® /iiiUa frru^lv n.lnm7side a Ions

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK.

Glasshouses.

- u i -- ^ . Miscellaneous plants. —As most of tk

u, dressing ior veroeua well-rotte<l , g arden lately, I saw clumps of Narcissus Bulbo- pl an ta in the greenhouse will now beinaetro

leaves ; 3 inches of these strewm on the surface, I cod j um blooming quite freely alongside a long g row th or flower, a free supply of water at tk
and lightly forked in, appear to suit them better ed g{ n g Q f varieli38 of Iris pumila, and the gold roo ^ wd j necessary. Ventilate freely at «
than anything else. When we grew \ erlienas, ftnd p Ur pi e covering as seen in chequered sunlight ^mes, and especially during mild weatfcA
I always found that our plants became exhausted beneath some gnarled old Apple trees in blossom attend regularly to stopping, tying, and pottk|
>nnn»r and were earlier attacked by mildew, wag v r ery lovely. off all kinds of soft-wooded plants inteudel l*

11428. -Crocuses after flowering.- the decoration of the conservatory - it*l
They may remain in the ground from year to summer and a,ut "“"' A 8 the earh
year, or you may take them up when the gomuma go out of flower they aho^ be gn»
foliage dies down. If planted in clumps, so that ally inured to full sunshme to promote aoj
there 8 is put something l^en, _the LXtnL-fc-

1 aiW ityB 1UU1IU Llice o OU. ----

sooner, and were earlier attacked by mildew v
when we dressed the beds with animal manure
than when we used leaf soil. J. C.

Chrysanthemums for cut flowers.—
As we require a good many cut flowers of Chry-

tnere is space to put soniewmig iwcwccu, me *-r--o -.

As w'e require a good many cut nowenu^..!,- , * to tie F t he foliage of each clump tlown later on. Pot singly ■um"» -v-j

santhemums, we have lately lieen preparing, as j ther ^ n a knot> theu st i r between them, and Lobelias into 4-inch pots for the decoration

is our usual custom, to provide for a ^PP 1 ^ i ei g her gQW annua l sor plant lidding plants when the conservatory. Celosias Gomphrenag 1 lo^

from the open air. 1 have long since learnt t - ar rives Where Crocuses are intended and the Amarantus salicifolius should besbdW

that, owing to the frequent occurrence of early th ^ ^ ordiuft flower bedSf they should into larger pots than those they ?ow occuj^J

November frosts, we cannot depend upon be planted from 6 in . to 8 in. deep, as then the they increase in size ; keep them in a mo,le^

securing these autumn flowers without some .P , stirred over them in autumn without warm temperature and near the glass.

means of protecting them. We have therefore , ^^^[ng them.-T C B Hyacinths, Crocuses Lily of the Valley.

given up altogether their cultivation in the 8 japouica, and other plants that were force! m

* ’ 1 - J 11386.—Sanvitalia procumbens. — This J flo ^ er ear iy in the season should now be eo*

seems to reGjuire rather more warmth than the signed aome shady border. Apply a muka-
generality of hardy annuals. It comes up best i U g G f loam and decayed manure in equal pr>
sown in gentle warmth, and if sown in a cold portions to Lilies in pots, and, with the exeef
ticient to injure mem. me house it should be placed under a hand-light, tion of such as are required for early floweriii
l them w hich we adopt is a giving air on fine days ; when the young plants ke them either out of doors or in cool fras**
very simple one. We merely get a mat and appear, and when they get two pairs of leaves, Kee *p early S pri ng - S truck cuttings near u*
nail it to the wall over the plant in the evening I gradually inuring them to the general atmo- lagg wann houses, shifting them wte
and take it aw'ay in the morning, and as frost of j sphere of the house. A good plan is to sink the nece8aar v Keep Coleuses near the light in *
sufficient severity to injure Chrysanthemums pot containing the seed in one a size larger, intermediate temperature, and repot audpift®
seldom lasts more than a few days in November, I covering with a pane of glass. This is a good ^ tbeir sbo ots as may seem necessary,
it is really not a serious business to protect a ’ substitute for a hand-light or bell glass.— i A b

few plants in the manner just described. We | J. C. B Azaleas. -No time should now be

given Up aiiugemci men *“

open borders, and have taken to plant them
against every available space on south walls.
In this position we find them to do exceedingly
well with a little protection when there are
signs of frost sufficient to injure them. The
plAn of sheltering them w hich we adopt is a
very simple one. Q

We

had an early taste of wdnter last year, but w'ith
the protection of a mat for a few' nights our
nlants came safely through it and gave us a

* * n _ _

Crop Oi UUWCin up w imuuiv --- --

To secure the best results it is necessary to make
a judicious selection of sorts. Amongst large-
flowered kinds our selection includes Mrs. G.
Rundle, G. Glenny, Mrs. Dixon, Princeof Wales,

i _i- t> _;__v..i

Azaleas.—JN o time snouia now iw

_ , I getting the latest batches of Azaleas cleaned ^

11422.— Taking up GladloU.— In the case ® otte( f Avoid giv ing them too great a root nw,
of choice hybrids it is much safer to^take them | unleS8 i 8 des ired to get them large m

the protection oi a . mu xu. u x«vv ^ of choice hybrids it is much safer to take them ’ , it i8 des i re d to get them large in «

plants came safely ^“gh it and gve m ^ a3 lln ies S the soil is very light they are apt ickly Where this is the object aimed at t
crop of flowers up to the middle of Decern jer. | to gu {y er f rom excessive moisture in winter. | dan t s should be kept regularly stopped for ta
To secure the best results it is necessary to make ; Then, again, Gladioli like good ground, and next two or three months. This willinduce

when the corms arc taken up, as soon as the c _v..,r,v.„ m-mvti, unll be

foliage decays, the J 1

In heavy moisture- mu8 t bo put under grow r ing conditions as tbi
f the bulbs would be out of fl ower , and any that require moi

v --- well ' Our selection 8ure t0 V*™* 11 n0t taKeU up * _J * C * B * root room should be seen to at once, so astog*

mokides Preaid*ut, Lilafoem,’.White Trevenna, I 11422. — Alpine Auriculas. — Now is a them early established to stand the fall sun '.
.Jersey BfautiBriUlyt, Hutt, lilac and good time to sow them ; the seed will germinate aifildtfF. Qf

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

May 1?, 1884.]

(GARDENING ILLUSTRATEB

117

limbers. — Clematises, Passion - flowers,
.ndevillas, Acacias, and similar plants now
king growth freely must not be allowed to
eive any check from cold draughts or from
nty supplies of water. The young wood
>uld be judiciously thinned at an early stage,
her than severely pruned when further ad-
leed. Tie in the young shoots gracefully
1 loosely, yet neatly, and never permit them
twine round each other. Climbers planted
c, unless they are in flower, are greatly
lefited by daily syringings, and if green-fly,
l spider, or other insects present themselves,
it tie Tobacco water, or water in which flower
sulphur has lieen mixed, may be efficaciously
ployed. Washing with a sponge or soft rag
l water, in which some soft soap has been
solved, is the most effectual remedy for
le.

Mignonette. — Koep up a succession of
gnonette in pots; a situation at the base of
vail shaded from the midday sun and well
Itered suits well-established plants per¬
tly but in the case of seed pots, and for
ne time after the young plants have made
;ir appearance, they should be kept under
ss.

VriticuLAs.—The present i9 the best time to
»t ; The pots ought not to exceed 5 inches
diameter, 3-inch and 4-inch pots being
fieient for many of the plants. Put plenty of
linage in the bottom, and over that some very
r«us turf, from which the particles of mould
/e been removed. The best compost to use
;hat composed of turfy loam four parts, one
rt of leaf-mould, and one part of sand, with a
;le pounded charcoal added ; press the mould
nly round the roots, from which the greater
rtion of the old soil has been removed, and

• tap-root should be shortened. When the
vnts are repotted they should again be placed
~k in the frame, and the lights be kept rather
*se over them until thoy have made fresh
•>ts.

Flower Garden.

Bedding plants. —The propagation of tender
tnts for outdoor decoration being now pretty
•d at an end, it is advisable always to keep a
«crve of late struck plants for filling vacancies
for stock plants for next season ; therefore
y cuttings procurable of weak-growing Pelar-
niums of the gold or silver tricolour class
ould now be got in, for, if not required for
Is year, they will makegood plants for another
vson. Tender bedding plants, such as the
rk-leaved Coleus, Alternantheras, Cannas,
d sub-tropical plants, will still need protec-
m until we get mild, settled weather, as the
dden changes of temperature which we have
lely experienced are exceptionally trying to
c young tender growths of plants that have
en growing in heated structures of any kind.

Hardy plants. —Alyssums, Aubrietias, early
insies, &c., may now be propagated in cold
ames or under hand-glasses set on the north
de of a wall or hedge, and if planted out into
serve beds in July they will make fine material
r autumn planting ; old plants may be divided
vl replanted. We generally plant out the
dutiful Myosotis dissitiflora (Forget-me-not)

• rows about 18 inches apart, and allow the

to drop on the ground, which, if kept
ioist, produces seedlings fit for pricking off in
>ugn*t, when, if desired, the side shoots pulled
i and treated as cuttings make dwarf, corn¬
et, biishy plants that withstand severe
biters in which old, straggling plants aie
tt*-n killed. Any bulbs which must be lifted
hould be laid in by tho heels until the foliage
as gradually died down, when they may be
^red away in a cool, dry position in sand or
*"ied mould. Tie up the flowering growths of
hlphiniuma, Phloxes, Pyrethrums, and all such
^fdy, tall-growing subjects to suitable sticks ;

;<i ground net ween the rows should be hoed
ner to destroy weeds ; if dry weather sets in
i ll water aud afterwards mulch to retain the
future.

f’AV*tKS.—These are in full flower, but to
up a succession of fine blooms it is neccs-
to pick all the flowers off a certain portion,
■'vfice-dress the beds, and peg the shoots close
ground. In ten days the plants will ho
' of vigorous growth and full-sized
> bom.

- '-Moll — gu n $lte Dn tc

spaces between the rows as soon as all the
plants are through the ground. It is very
likely that there will be blanks in the rows,
and, even if these arc not numerous, they spoil
the effect of the beds. A good plan is to pot a
number of roots at the same time as the beds
are planted ; these can be used to fill up the
blanks.

Dahlias. — These may now be planted.
\\ here fine flowers are required the plants
should stand (i feet apart every way. The
ground can scarcely be made too rich. They
should he well watered at the time of planting
out, and at once secured by good stakes, but
the stems should not be tied too tightly, so that
their subsequent expansion may be allowed for.
Round the stems for 1 foot cover the surface 1
inch thick with sharp sand, so as to make it less
agreeable for the slugs to travel over. A little
Wheat-chaff or hard straw chopped up h inch
long does much to impede their movements, for
they object to travel over anything that sticks to
them, and this is the case with these substances
even when wet. The best of all for the above
purpose, where they can be obtained, are the
short clippings of bristles from brushmakers.
Wet or dry these are equally effective, and are
too sharp for slugs to attempt to cross. Lime
and soot dusted round the plants will stop the
movements of slugs whilst dry ; but with mois¬
ture it soon gets crusted, after which they will
pass over it, and repeated applications do harm
to the plants.

Vegetables.

Turnips, Parsnips, and Horn Carrots will
require thinning out. Provided the plants have
been pricked out, or are not suffering in the
seed-beds, defer till the advent of showery
weather all further planting out of Cauliflowers,
early Broccoli, Savoys, and Coleworts.

Peas and Beans.— Sow Peas for succession
in shallow trenches. Veitch’s Perfection, Ne
Plus Ultra, and Duchess of Edinburgh are fine
late varieties. Scarlet Runners should be treated
exactly the same as Peas ; the main crop should
now be sown, and those up should have their
points pinched out, which induces fruiting
from bottom to top. In the event of Bticks
being scarce, they may be treated after the
fashion of dwarf French Beans, the points
of tho vines bein^ pinched out once a week ;
and they may m that case be sown in
lines 3 feet apart, but, as runners, will require
at least double that space. As a dwarf
French Bean for present sowing there is none
to equal Canadian Wonder. As soon as Broad
Beans are 30 inches high, pinch off their tops ;
this hinders the colonisation of black aphis,
and assists the earlier formation of pods. By
way of support to the stems earthing up is de¬
sirable for this crop.

Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows.—
—Cucumbers in pits and frames will now give
a good supply of fruit, and where the demand
is not great a few lights will give immense
quantities, and the more pretentious structure in
which winter plants have been grown may be
given up to Melons. In the summer growth of
Cucumbers thoroughly sweetened fermenting
material plays an "important part, either
as a plunging medium in houses, or
for supplying heat when applied as a
lining to frames, and on this account a good
stock should always be ready for use. Ridge
Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows may be
planted out at any time if they can be afforded
the protection of hand-lightR ; and by way of
starting them quickly into growth, a slight
bottom-heat is desirable, and easily created by
the use of lawn mowings and stable litter;
about 2 ft. in depth will be ample, and as the
material cools down the roots of the plants will
soon establish themselves in it.

Potatoes on heavy land will be benefited
by breaking the crust between the rows with
forks ; those on light soils are more quickly and
as effectively done with hoes. The plotsintended
to produce exhibition tubers should have the
haulm thinned to a couple of stems only, and
guano or some other artifical manure should he
applied before rain and before being earthed
up.

Onions and Leeks. —Spring-sown Onions
should be thinned before they get too large.
Take advantage of the soil l>eing moist after rain
do this. If it be hard and dry, the limited

quantity grown by many may be watered, so
that the removal of any need not injure those
that remain, which often happens when the
ground is hard. As to the distance the plants
are left apart in thinning, account must be taken
of the kinds grown. Large kinds, such as
Rocca or Nuneham Park, require double the
room necessary for small varieties, like Danvers’
or James’s Long Keeping. If it is desired to grow
well developedbulbs of the large-growing kinds,
these should be thinned, so as to leave them
8 inches or 9 inches apart in tho row ; the
smaller-growing, later-keeping sorts will not
require more than half that room. Where
some are required for pickling, a portion of the
smallest-growing kinds may be left "not more
than 1 inch apart; or, unless they have come
up very thickly, without thinning at all. When
indifferently grown. Leeks are little better for
the purposes for which they are required than
Onions. To obtain the peculiar mild flavour
which Leeks possess when large and freely
grown, the plants must not be allowed to
l>ecome stunted by being too close in the seed¬
bed ; to prevent this, thin them out, so a& to
leave them 6 inches apart.

Early Celery.— This should now be put
out; if the trenches have been prepared before¬
hand run the hoe over the surface to destroy
any weeds that may be vegetating. Give the
plants a good soaking with water before moving
them ; remove them with as many roots as pos¬
sible and as much soil as will adhere to them.
In moving Celery plants, there should never be
occasion for the now almost obsolete practice of
cutting off or shortening a considerable portion
of the leaves at planting time ; on the contrary,
Celery, more than most crops, should never,
throughout the whole course of its cultivation,
from the time the plants appear above ground
until they are fit for use, receive a check more
than is inseparable from transplanting them,
even when that operation is performed with
care. If the trenches have been prepared for
double or treble rows, put the plants in 1 foot
apart each way; if for single rows, 9 inches be¬
tween each plant will be sufficient for ordinary
purposes. In making the holes, use a planting
trowel, and see that thoy are large enough to
admit the roots without crushing them together;
give each row a good watering as soon as
planted.

Herbs and Salads. — Seedling plants of
Thyme, Basil, Sweet Marjoram, and Sage
should be pricked out under shelter, and may
be permanently transplanted in the open ground
about the end of the month. All kinds of
herbs have suffered severely, so much so, that
new plantations of them will be a necessity, and
provision should be made accordingly by
pricking out a sufficiency of each sort. Sow
Lettuces and Radishes once a fortnight; the
former should now be sown where the plants are
to grow, as transplanting in dry weather entails
much labour in watering, and even if this be
afforded the plants receive a severe shock.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

Pruning overgrown Rhododendrons.
—It is not possible to prune the best hybrid
Rhododendrons back to the old hard wood with¬
out making some sacrifice, especially if the prun¬
ing must be done all at once. In any case, the
loss of one season’s flowering is unavoidable.
If I had to deal with plants that had got over¬
grown, I should leave the pruning until they had
gone out of flower ; I should then cut back some
of the branches that roquired it—that is, I should
thin them out, cutting back a portion of them
this year, and the remaindernext. The branches
left to be operated upon next year would flower
in the ordinary way, and the loss of blossoms
would not be so serious as if all the pruning was
done at one time. A good deal must, however,
depend upon how much pruning is required ; if
there are many branches to be cut off, and if the
wood is old and hard through age, it will be
better to do all the pruning at once, and the best
time to do it is early in February, as early prun¬
ing will give a longer season ©f growth for the
young shoots. If there are a good few rather
large branches to be shortened back, they will
break into growth mote regularly if cut away
altogether: tVan if the time p extended over'tvvur-
seaeons, beeauiie-the branches lefHrfae first year

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

‘GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Mat 17, 18S4.

would in all probability use up ail the strength
from the roots, and the cut-back branches would
probably die. But in dealing with the young
growth of Rhododendrons the case is different;
>11 that stage they do not object to a little prun¬
ing, although they are better without it. A
young shoot shortened back, either before or
after (lowering, will break into growth the same
year, and if the pruning is done in February,
the growth so made may (lower the following
season ; but it must not be expected to do so if
the pruning dojs not take place till after the
liowering season is over.—J. C. C.

VEGETABLES.

NOTES ON BROCCOLI.

Of all winter vegetable crops this is the most
important, and during the next two months
sowing and planting must have special atten¬
tion.

Time to Sow.

As a rule the seed for our main Broccoli crops
is sown the last week in April or the first week
in May, but should anything prevent us from
sowing them, then we would sow up to the end
of May ; so if any have not yet put in their
Broccoli seed, there is still time to do so.
.fudging from the many letters I receive con¬
taining inquiries about vegetables, I find the
idea very general amongst amateurs that, in
order to secure a long and constant succession
of Broccoli, the seeds should be put in at
different times, sowing the early ones in spring
and the late ones in autumn. It is not, however,
through practice of this kind that a constant
supply of Broccoli can be kept up from Novem¬
ber until May. If some of the early Broccoli
seed were sown in February or March, many of
the plants would be liable to produce heads
prematurely when four or five months old, and
if the spring varieties were not sown until
August or thereabouts they would fail alto¬
gether to give good returns. It is by the selec¬
tion of varieties that a succession can alone be
secured, and if six, eight, or ten sorts are culti¬
vated to give a supply, say from the beginning
of November until the end of May or middle of
June, the whole of the seeds may be sown on
the same day.

Varieties.

It may be stated, too, that great numbers of
varieties are not required for a long and good
supply. If it is known that one kind will pro¬
duce heads satisfactorily during November and
December, there is no use in growing other
three or four kinds which will come in at the
same time. Alt jgether in recent years we have
grown and tested over five dozen kinds of home
and Continental origin, and now our sorts are
few, but really good. For convenience I will
classify them thus: November and December,
Veitjh’s .Self-protecting Autumn Broccoli, an
excellent sort; January, Snow’s Winter White
and Backhouse’s winter variety ; February,
Cooling’s Matchless ; March, Carter’s Mammoth
Spring White; April, Cattell’s Eclipse ; May
and June, Sutton’s Late Queen ; the latter, like
the first-named, is indeed a queen amongst
Broccoli, and should be universally cultivated,
as it never disappoints, and it comes in at a
time when anything in the way of Broccoli is
much valued.

The Seed Bed.

In sowing the seed of Broccoli any odd corner
or strip of border where the soil is fairly good
will answer the purpose, as the young plants will
only remain in their germinating position until
they become large enough for planting in their
permanent places. Inforkingover thesoedground
before sowing we generally add a dressing of leaf
soil or old Mushroom bed manure, as wo find the
young plants make more roots in this than in cow,
horse, or rough, lumpy manure. For con¬
venience in hoeing between, and also to admit
plenty of light to the young plants, we prefer
sowing the seeds in rows to broadcast, and to
carry out this plan drills 2 inches deep and G
inches or 8 inches apart are opened for its recep¬
tion. It is sown thinly, the covering over is
done carefully, and when finished the soil over
the seed is left very smooth. At this season the
seed germinates fast ; sometimes in humid
weather the plants can indeed be seen in the
rows a week ajfleresowing, anil ydion in this
stage, al^ until\thjj(3 lvc ‘*Q 1 rt stron 8 th » a

sharp out-look has to be kept for snails and
slugs, which are very fond of the tender young
plants, and devour them greedily. In damp
weather it is therefore necessary to look out for
them night and morning, and at the same time
dust slightly every other day with soot or
powered lime. In dry weather some may be in¬
clined to water their young Broccoli, but we
never do this ; artificial watering is not, indeed,
wanted when the soil has been properly pre¬
pared. As soon as the plants l>ecoine anything
like crow'ded in the rows, the largest of them
are drawn out and dibbled into another piece of
ground 3 inches or so apart. Here they soon
catch hold of the soil, and make nice bushy
plants to be transferred, with a good ball of
soil adhering to the roots, to their permanent
quarters. Those left in the seed rows have
sometimes space enough to remain and be
planter! out with those dibbled in elsewhere,
and in any case those growing in the seed rows
are always handy for makiug up blanks or for
forming later plantations on ground which may
not be vacant at the general planting time. In
reference to this, I may say

The time to plant is not fixed by a hard and
fast rule, but may extend from the beginning of
June until the end of July. When the ground
is empty and plants early, they may be put out
at any time, but in our case the ground is
hardly ever empty or waiting for them, as we
have often to keep the Broccoli plants growing
in the nursery beds until they are upwards of 1
foot high before the ground for their reception
is cleared from other crops, such as Peas,
Potatoes, &c. In dealing with large, or what
may be termed overgrown plants, a little more
care is needed in transplanting than in the case
of small, young material, and in July, when the
weather and soil are generally excessively dry,
newly-planted Broccoli is much benefited by a
thorough watering. Besides the ground which
will become vacant for Broccoli two months
hence we have a good deal of space ready for
them now ; but this is not idle, empty ground,
as Potatoes have been planted on it with a dis¬
tance of 3 feet from row to row, and immedi¬
ately these are earthed up the Broccoli will be
planted between each row. As the Potatoes
develop the stems will be kept from smothering
up the Broccoli, and when the tubers are lifted
the soil will be spread out and levelled down
around the Broccoli stems, and by September
our quarters will contain as promising a crop of
Broccoli as they do at the present time that of
Potatoes. In planting autumn Broccoli a dis¬
tance of 2 feet from plant to plant each way
will give good results, but winter kinds will
be benefited by being planted wider apart, as
they cannot be grown too hardy or well exposed,
and 2^ feet or 3 feet should be given them.
Deeply-cultivated ground will always produce
the finest crops, but excessive manuring should
l>e avoided, as this forces the plants to make
soft, succulent growth in autumn, which is very
liable to be injured in winter. J. M.

GOOD LETTUCES.

Everyone who has had anything to do with
growing Lettuces knows how difficult it is to
get them good during the summer, especially
when treated in the ordinary way, that is by
sowing them in seed beds and transplanting, a
method of treating them that is far from the
best. The system I have always pursued, and
it is one I cau strongly recommend, is sowing
the seed in drill rows, where the plants are to
stand, by doing which much time and labour
are saved and the young Lettuces are left with
their tap roots intact. These drive straight
down into the earth, and as the plants receive
no check they grow very fast, and attain a large
size with fine solid hearts that become well
blanched, and as a natural result, are tender,
crisp, and juicy when cut up for use in the
salad. Transplanted Lettuces are generally the
reverse of thus, the reason of which is, that they
(lag through transplanting; and having lost
their mainstay (the tap roof), they suffer during
dry weather, as instead of being able to pene¬
trate deeply into the soil and search for food
and moisture below, they are entirely dependent
on what they find within their reach above,
where the supply often fails. Distressed and
checked by sun and drought, the tissues become
hardened, and the Lettuces are in consequent
tough and indigestible and unfit to eat.

Where to Plant.

The best place to get good Lettuces at thii
season of the year is on ridges between rows o/
Celery, as there they have great depth of sod,
owing to the addition of that thrown out froa
the trenches, aud as it is principally snrf&?e
material they have to root in, and as thek
elevated position affords them plenty of rooo,
light, and air, they are able to reach the fulltst
stage of development. If the land appear* to
be at all poor, it is a good plan before dig^n*
the trenches for the Celery to scatter a thit
layer of rotten manure between, which macurt
the Lettuces will have to make use of wb«
they begin to turn in. Stimulated by its rick
ness, growth is expedited, and the plants kai?
not that tendency to “bolt” or run to
which they have when their supply of food hi k
or runs short. Another reason why Lettuoa
should be grown between Celery is that ly
having them there it economises space t&
could not be utilised for anything else, as otba
vegetables would be a longer time on li»
ground ; whereas Lettuces reach their full
in a short time, and are off and used before t k
soil is required for earthing up and bleaehiaf
the Celery. To get the land in proper onkr
for sowing, the surface must be finely raked
made level and smooth, when all will bt a i
readiness for drawing the drills. These shsa'd
be made about an inch deep, and in them tk
seed should be scattered regularly and thinly,
or, better still, dotted in small patches a f«*
apart, which is the proper distance for t»
plants to stand when thinned out singly, wind
they should be as soon as they are large enofid
for anyone to pick out or distinguish tk
strongest, and they are the plants to l* left
In the event of slugs assailing them, or as & wt-
ventive measure, if there are any of these trouole-
soine insects in the garden, it is a good pkn w
slightly dust the leaves with Boot, to get whid
to stick it is necessary to apply it during early
morning while the dew is on the plants;
as soot is of a hot nature, the sowing it mustk
done with a light hand, or the tender phsh
will be injured.

Varieties.

The best kind of Lettuce to grow for enmae
use is the old Paris White Cos, which, calc
vated after the manner referred to, is &lw*n
succulent and good, and hearts in of itself wit*
out any tying. For winter work there are rtc-as
equal to Hicks’ Hardy Green Cos and the YVhiif-
seeded Bath Cos, both of which will stand h*rl
frosts and come in fit for use very early in spring,
or by sowing now or soon after this, they vul
be large enough to cut by the end of Octoki.
As there is never any fear of late Letta-**
running t-o flower, or suffering greatly (m®
transplanting, they may be sown in seed be-*
and dibbled out from these into the ground
where they are to stand for the winter. Tb*
most suitable situation for them is a warm scad
border under a wall, as there they get sun and
shelter, and what is of equal importance theycaa
have drier soil, which saves them from spot or
other disease. Before planting, the border
should be well manured and deeply dug, aad
if at all heavy have leaf mould worked into it,
which will help to keep it open and assist the
drainage by allowing the water to pass (reefy
through. To give proper room, the rows should
not be nearer each other than 15 inches, ud
the plants that distance apart in the rows, whki
will give them room to spread and let the air
through. Lettuces that are fully grown by tk
end of October, if needed for winter should w
lifted and stored in cold frames, where «
covered during sharp frosty weather wfith mats,
they may be drawn from when wanted.—S. D-

STRAWBERRIES FOR CULTURE IN

POTS.

Instead of layering runners of the current
season in the way generally practised for anp
plying us with plants for growing in pots, vf
have for the past three seasons reverted to the
plan of securing our supply of plants frv«n
runners of the previous year, and the results
have been so gratifying that we intend for the
future to adhere to this system. It is the most
efficient and in" tHe end the most economical.
One grefiCt advantage off.this method is that,
independent of late or hot and dry season*,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

May 17, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

119

ly potting can he assured, and consequently

• well filled with roots and plump, matured
irt buds, conditions which, if unfulfilled,
ider satisfactory returns uncertain. Again, in
•*, a multitude of matters of equal import
|®ire attention, and therefore tne layering
runners not unfrequently gets delayed until

• late : then comes the preparation of the soil,
fat end pegs, along with the work of plunging
\ layering, all operations consuming a good
tl of time ; there is also the subsequent atten
n to watering, not to mention the incon-
denoe if the pots are plunged in fruiting
urtrrs, ami it is only in some of the larger
.css in which time and space can lie devoted

plantations for the special purpose of
iplying early runners for forcing. Now, all
» tan be obviated by the system just alluded
Uur practice in regard to obtaining
inert for potting is as follows :—Towards the
i <»f April all out-door plantations are thickly
itched with long stable litter. This is done
rtly to retain moisture, which in dry seasons
»n escapes from our shallow soil, and partly to
m & l»«d for the ripe fruit to rest on ; for, 1

• middle of June, the litter becomes, through
•eatod raiu washings, clean. As soon after tne
p is gathered as time permits all runners are
, their removal being a very easy matter, as the
ckneisof the mulch prevents their rooting into

soil. The decaying straw* is allowed to re¬
in. except on that port ion (always the youngest
1 best) fro m which runners are meant to be
en. From this all the straw r y material is
iral and a light dressing of rotten manure is
atituted. Thus treated, we find that a few
rs of Vicomtesse Hlricart do Thury w*ill in
iably throw out late runners more than suffi-
ut for our wants, and that they root strongly
ore winter. Here they remain till March,
en they are lifted and laid in about 4 inches
inches apart in any spare border; the
ce and time occupied in doing this are trifling
n pared w ith the usual layering business. All
attention these runners require till potted
lust week in June is pinching out any
ver-stems they send up. After potting w
ce them on ashes, gradually spreading them
to ripen as autumn advances. I may add
t ont of fifteen sorts tried only two really
*:eed here out-of-doors ; these are Vicomtesse
rieart de Thury, or Garibaldi and Eleanor.

3 do not force a great number, but the
omtesse is used for that purpose almost ex-
sively, as we find no other so good. Its
•lificacy outside, too, is wonderful ; after the
alar crop is over it will continue to throw* up
>ng scrapes all through the summer and

ranmore.

and planted out when nil danger of frost is
over ; or the seed may be planted in the open
air at anytime after the 1st of May if given
the protection of a hand-glass. Dust u little
soot, lime, or wood-ashes on the plants while
young, and when they commence to run lay the
branches out evenly, so that they cun cover the
entire ground. Keep them clear from weeds at
all times. If the ends of the leading shoots are
occasionally pinched back, the plants will hear
more freely, and if some fruit is removed the re¬
mainder will considerably increase in size. There
are numerous varieties of Water Melons, some
tw*enty or more being enumerated by our
seedsmen, hut, for amateurs, the following

with white ; flesh scarlet, very solid, and deli¬
cious in flavour. Cuban Queen: A variety
recently introduced, and remarkable for its very
large size, combined with excellent quality.
Ire. Cream: This is considered by some one of
the most delicious. It is of medium size, an (
is almost round. It also has a thinner rind
than most of the other sorts ; the flesh is of a
bright crimson colour, and has a very rich,
su*ect flavour. Of this sort w*e have tw o varieties,
differing mostly in their shape and the colour of
their seeds, one being round, with white seeds ;
the other long, with seeds of a grey colour.
Oratvje ; This is an entirely distinct sort,
being peculiar inasmuch as the divisions of its

WATER MELONS IN AMERICA.

f. Water Melon is one of our most popular
1 well-known fruits, and one that is univcr-l
ly esteemed in America during tho latter
t of the summer Beason for its rich, abundant,
•ling juices. It is a plant of vigorous growth,

1 i* extensively cultivated in certain localities;

, lingular as it may appear, most persons con-
i r it rather difficult to cultivate, and, judging
m the inferior specimens which they produce,
might suppose such to be really the case. But
i i» s very serious mistake, for no fruit is of
ier cultivation than the Water Melon. It will
•w in almost any soil, yet thrives best in one
t is light and nch, with a warm sunny ex-
"u>. The proper preparation of the soil is
o An important consideration. The ground
>ul«l he cultivated well and deeply. The hills
«uld be 8 feet apart, and he pre|>ared by dig-
g a hole about 1 foot deep by 2 feet across, and
cmg in it one-half bushel of well-rotted
anre, in which some bone-duBt has been well
•fcl. Upon this place 5 inches of soil, and

* the whole as thoroughly and deeply as
•ible. Firm this hill down well with the

or fork, and then cover it with 3 inches
I inches of finely-broken soil ; in this placel

* or twelve seeds on their edges, and cover tol

* depth of 4 inch with fine soil. When the

have become strong and well established,
i bit three or four of the most promising

be removed.

Where early Melons are desired, the seed
’'M be sown in 3-inch pots^gr on inverted
•b, in a hot-bed, in the l^/inmn ^of Appall
' plants should be gr&di

Group of Water Melons. — No. 1, Black Spanish ; No. 2, Pliinney or Early Oval ;
No. 3, Mountain Sweet; No. 4, Gipsy ; No. 5, The Citron.

will be found the most suitable : — Black Spanish :
This is an old variety, but it is not as exten¬
sively cultivated as tho other sorts. The fruit
is of a round shape, and is rather small in size.
It also has a very thin rind, and a rich, sugary
flavour. Phinnry or Barit/ Oral: This is the
earliest sort, and is very prolific, the fruit lieing
of moderate size, with bright red flesh, and good
in flavour. Mountain Street is the most pro¬
ductive, and is one of the host, as well as the
most extensively cultivated variety. When
well grown the fruit will attain a large size.
The flesh is red, sweet, and of excellent flavour.
Mountain Sprout : This variety is not as
early as the sorts previously mentioned, but the
‘ [uit will keep until quite late in the fall.
ip*y : Oblong, light green, mottled and striped

flesh peel from the rind like an onange ; it
separates into segments in a similar manner. It
is of medium size, oval in shape, and excellent
in flavour. The Citron is used for preserving
only, and is well known to ull. It may he sown
in the open air, as it is hardier than the other
varieties. — -4 mrrican Garden.

To destroy wood lice.—My Cucumber
frame (an old wooden one) I found a fortnight
since to be swarming with wood lice, and it
looked as if the plants would soon be consumed.
Ho* to get rid of thcm r »a f #fi .W»tion. I
procured a hodgehog and placed ifi the frame.
t„ two

tucetslershire.

J. 0., Gloucti

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

120

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Mat 1?, 16&

INDOOR PLANTS.

the springing of the young Ferns. This is no i and

_ nnvnrioinff n.1 SP nil

Double Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums. *-
Few plants are more popular than these, and
few more useful. Besides being well fitted for
growing into specimens of a pyramidal form,
they make pretty bush plants in 6-inch pots if
supported by a few sticks, and are in that form
well adapted for the greenhouse, where they
will flower throughout the summer and w'ell on
into the autumn. The stronger varieties, again,
if treated as greenhouse climbers in a sunny
spot, especially w’here used to cover the end of a
house, both grow' and ilow’er well. For balconies
or vases, too, their procumbent habit thoroughly
fits them. It is now' some seven or eight years
since Kcenig Albert, the first double kind, made
its appearance. It has violet-mauve coloured
flowers, and is still one of the best of that tint,
but now’ there is a great range of colour among
them. A good, pure white is still, however, a
desideratum, for though I have flow’ered Gazelle,
Finette, Madame E. Gall£, and Sarah Bern¬
hardt, none of them completely fulfilled my ex¬
pectations as to purity of colour. The best I
take to be Madame E. Gall**, a good and free
kind, but with a slight blush tint in the blos¬
soms. Jeanne d’Arc is a fairly good pure white.
All the varieties just named have the true trail¬
ing habit o the old kinds rather than the stout
sturdy grow’th of many recently introduced
sorts. Others with the same habit as the old
kinds are M. Dubus, bright carmine-pink;
Rosina, pale pink ; Mdlle. Jeanne Woutcrs,
deep rose; Robert Fortune, pale red ; M.
Pasteur, bright magenta; Comtesse Horace de
Choiseul, bright pink, shaded towards the
edges with magenta ; Sidonie, deep mauve ; and
Gloried’Orleans, crimson-magenta, the lastoneof
the best. Strongstiffergrowing varieties include
Comte Horace de Choiseul, salmon rose ; Albert
Crousse, light salmon ; Mdme. Crousse, pale
pink; Eurydice, rosy mauve; Mdme. Jules
Menoreau, deep rose ; Mdme Lemoinc, rather
brighter than the preceding, and, moreover,
shaded with magenta ; M. Barrall, deep blush ;
and Anna Pfitzer, salmon-pink. Although all
named in the foregoing list are well worth
growing, for fi dozen I would select the follow-
ing viz., Albert Crousse, Comte Horace de
Choiseul, Comtesse Horace de Choiseul, Eury¬
dice Glorie d’Orleans, Mdme. Crousse, Mdme.
Lemoino, Mdme. E. Galte, Mdme. Jules Meno-
reau, Mdlle. Jeanne Wouters, M. Dubus, and M.
Barrall.—H. P.

11451.— Plants fading in conservatory.
—Evidently the thick blue glass and fancy glass
combined does not suit your plants. ^ ou do
not say what kind of glass the sides of the
house are formed of. If they are of ordinary
glass, and the sashes made to open, the plants
ought to succeed. The nurseryman who told
you that he would be surprised if you reared
your plants w’oukl have a sufficient reason for
say in t' so. There is no mystery about the culti¬
vation of Pelargoniums; but when they are
making their growth they ref pi ire plenty of
light and air, and they should not be far re¬
moved from the glass. Even if you can admit
plenty of air into the house, if your plants do
not obtain plenty of light, and are at a distance
from the roof glass, they would not do well.
They w’ould be improved by weak manure water
being supplied to them about twice a-week,
w’hcn the pots are full of roots.—J. D. E.

11457 .—Ferns for cutting.— The fronds of
the common Maiden-hair Fern (Adiantum
cuneatum) should not be cut until they are in a
mature state. If cut in a young immature con¬
dition they last but a short time. They also
last longer when the plants are in a cool house
than they do W'lien gathered from plants in a
warm house.-—J. D. E.

11410 .—Sowing Fern spores.— In addi¬
tion to the instructions lately given as to the
sowing of Fern spores, it may be well to note a
fact, which, however well known to experienced
Fern-raisers, may be new to younger gardeners
—that the first developments from Fern spores
bear no sort of likeness to young Ferns. My
reason for stating this is because I lately heard
a successful Fern grower, but who had given no
study to the matter, remark, on being shown
the protliallus (as the preliminary effort of the
Fern is calledk t-hat they had Been m the habit

tne springing ui u»> -.. . .

uncommon nor surprising case, but it is better
that it should be understood that the spore of a
Fern, on germinating, produces, fimt of all, a
flat, leafy growth, resembling nothing so much
as a small plant of the Marchantia, which is so
common and so troublesome on the surface of
the soil in damp flower pots. This flat leaf,
which may be called the mother frond, not only
sends out delicate root fibres, but also bears
upon its under surface certain organs, only to
be seen under a powerful microscope, which
may lie said, roughly speaking, to correspond in
some degree to the fructifying parts of a flower
From these, in course of time, the embryo of
the Fern is finally developed. We learn from
I)r Oliver that it is only w ithin the last tw’enty-
five or thirty years that the germination and
development of'Ferns have been rightly under¬
stood. Those who care to pursue a somew hat
stiff subject w ill find cryptogamic botany a very
interesting study.

1 1456 .—Hardy plants for next spring.
—Sow the seeds of Pyrethrums, Sweet \Y llliams,
Wallflowers, and other hardy plants at once.
They must, w hen large enoueh, lie pricked out
3 inches apart, and then be planted out J
inches apart when the plants crowd each other.
-J. D. E.

11461 Watering Ferns.— You ought not
to w ater them overhead so often; that is,
doubtless, the cause of the Maiden-hair fronds
dyin". You might venture to w’ater them over-
lieatf daily in a w\arm hour during hot w eather ;
but so early in the season, and in a greenhouse,
it is a bad practice. Syringe gently once in ton
days or so, to clear the dust from the fronds.—
J. D. E.

11473 .—Azaleas after blooming. If

the plants require repotting it ought to be done ;
they should then be encouraged to make their
growth, in a warm temperature, if possible. If
not, they will do in the greenhouse.—J. I). E
11462. —Potting Pelargoniums. — Nice
little plants in 6-inch pots would not yet require
ropotting. They w ill produce a good head of
bloom in such pots. After flowering, water
should be gradually withheld until the soil Is
comparatively dry. About the end of July, or
early in August, they should lie cut down, and
w’hen the buds break forth shake the soil out
from the roots, and repot again in the same size
pots They will flower in that size another
year • or they may be potted in October or ■
November, into pots a size larger. The best
potting material is good turfy, decayed loam,
about a fourth ppirt of rotten manure, as much
leaf-mould, and Borne sharp sand.—J. D. E.

11468 .— Soil for potting Ferns.— Equal
parts of loam and peat mixed together is an
excellent compost for Asplenium bulbifera,
or, indeed, for most Ferns. Cyclamens succeed
in’a compost of one part peat to two or three
times its bulk of loam ; some decayed manure
should also be added to the compost ; sand and
broken bits of t charcoal may l>e mixed with it
if necessary. Charcoal is specially valuable to
mix with the potting soil for Ferns.—J. D. E.

11430.—CycSlamens after flowering.—
They do not require to be kept very close, hut
the reverse. They should get plenty of air
during the daytime and at night, except in cold
weather—the bbject l>eing to mature the loams.
Do not let the soil get dust dry, but w’ater
enough to jufct keep the roots from perishing.
Do not put the loams at any time in the open,
as cold rains are apt to cause the fibrous roots
to perish. About the middle of August they
w fll begin to make new growth, and then all the
old soil should be shaken away, repotting in
well-drained pots in loam and leaf-mould in
equal parts, with plenty of w’hite sand. Do not
give too large pots, allowing about 1J inches
from the loam to the edge of the pot. Keep the
soil just nicely moist, giving air on fine days,
closing in the evening w’hen the nights are cold,
and shade from hot sun, until the middle or
latter end of September, when they will enjoy
all the sun they can get.—J. C. B.

11432. —Vallotas and Eupatoriums.

_The Vallota is certainly one of the best

window' plants in cultivation, doing best w’here
it gets plenty of sun and air all through the
fine weather. Fibrous peat and turfy loam in .
equal parts, with plenty of silver sand, is the beskj
_«/,^; n rr fivmlv irivimr irood drainacro*

using pots just large enough to contain ttf
roots. \ allotas do not need repotting ottaj
about every three years, is enough as they
Lest in a root-bound condition. In repotnaf
it is best to shake away all the old soil, and xb*
bulb should not be more than one-third
in the soil. If the Eupatorium is a yosn
plant, and the pot is full of roots, it should be q
once shifted into a larger pot, using loam tv*
parts, and leaf soil one part; but in an old®
specimen it should be cut back rather Lari;
kept only just moist until new shoots are foniiri
and then be shifted ; keep in an airy greenku*,
syringing freely in hot w’eather until the h*
ginning of August, and then place in a sunay
position in the open air until mid SepteniWjj
this will ripen the w’ood.—J. C. Byfleet.

11464.—Climber for Fernery.— By :u
means think of growing any climbing plii
in the house which would attach itself to t*
wood-w'ork, as the rafters would quickly ret
There is a plant called Ficus repens which ?
very suitable for covering back walls, and whid
you might use for that purpose. . The cdj
flow'ering clifnber which would do in the ek<l
atmosphere of a Fernery is Lapageria rosea
alba.—J. C. B.

11461.—Maiden-hair Ferns.— As a nk
Ferns dislike to lie watered overhead, ai
Maiden-hair more than most kinds, bet nud
depends upon the position in which they m
placed. If the house is airy and the plant* £
plenty of light and some sun, they may b
sprinkled once or twdee a day in hot weaia
w'ith advantage, but if they are quite shad*
and a damp, cool atmosphere can be maintains
they are Best w'ithout it. Create as raad
atmospheric moisture as possible by sprinkles;
the path and stages, and stand the plants!
summer in the coolest and shadiest place ind*
house.—J. C. B.

11414.—Clematis with small flowers
—The small blooms are the result of late grovti
which did not have time to bring them to pa
fection, so that they remained in an imperil
state until spring. It is lietter to prune all sss
weakly growth away in January, cutting ifc
shoots in to about ‘half their length, as til
they 8tart aw'ay stronger and bloom betters
' C. B.

11472. —Geraniums for winter.—In owe
to have good plants for flowering in winter tit
cuttings should be put in now'. I put one entia
in the centre of a small sixty-sized [d
They are potted w'hen w'ell rooted into snaij,
forty-eights, and in July we pot them
into the pots in w'Kich they are to
These are 6 or 7 inches across, inside measim
All through the summer and autumn the
are kept out of doors. They begin to flo*w
aliout the end of October, and we keep theno
flow'er until the Hyacinths come u in a*
spring. You must have a minimum
ture of 55 degs., and they succeed best **
pipes for hot water attached to the roof. ViB *
varieties do not flower satisfactorily in wintav
Those that succeed best are (of rose colour* am
pink) Mrs. Leavers, Mrs. Sturt, Olive Cam,
Constance. Of w hite varieties, White Vesnvur
and Eureka. Scarlet : Atala, West Brighton
Lumen, Burns, Commander-in-chief (a tw
strong habit), Mrs. Gordon. Crimson vaneta*
are Dr. Orton aud Henry Jacoby. Edith rear
son (a beautiful salmon rose), Sophie Birb
(salmon), Eva (magenta), are the best sing*
flow* sred varieties. 1 have not been very «
cessful with the double-floVered varieties, n
Lord Mayor (a much habited pink variety
F. V. Raspail (scarlet) did w'ell Last year.-*
Douglas.

11452 .—Bulbs from the Gape - l T "w
tunately your bulbs have come to hand at l
wrong time of year. Had yon received them*
winter, or, better still, in autumn, you w 1 **

wmuei, ui| ou..*, ...* * ,

have been able to give them the treatment
require. Ixias, Sparaxis, and Watsonias shook
he potted in October, w intering them in ft oil
frame or cool greenhouse, as they begin to gro
in autumn, and, though hardy, require prot«
tion against our changeful winter climate. &
that can now lie done is to pot them. Tin
will make a little grow th this year, and vrtn
the foliage dies off pot them afresh, pnttn
some half-dozen bulbs in a 4^-inch pot, place
them under cover. The Omithogalum mi
either be potted or be planted in the op-

_ 1 . T noV..ir»* oW»PTlhOU*0

canal parts, w'ith plenty of silver sand, is the l*qsw eit-uor ue ^ r . ~ ' w>

XportlpJ.ttmgWy, giving good druinagof ground ; the UMm nrtfrWum*

. IRE A JA-L HA PA (j J

1 At 17, 1864.]

GARDE.yT.ra ILLUSTRATED

1.1

»hould be potted in autumn to bloom in
ng; and the Brunsvigia is a groenhonse
If they are potted at once and carefully
led, they will probably do well another
-^J. C. B.

— All that you have namsd succeed in a
m greenhouse temperature, and should be
ed in rich, light sandy loam. The Lapey-
ria corymbosa has very small bulbs ; a dozen
fiem may be potted in a 5-inch pot. It pre¬
ss numerous pretty blue flowers. They like
trm temperature when growing.—J. D. E.
1459. —Primulas after flowering’. —
i fchould state what species or varieties of
nula you have. Presuming they are Chinese
nulas, if they are now in small pots, repot
n into pots a size larger. If they are in
1 sized pots let them remain as they are
1 after midsummer, when they should be re¬
ed, after reducing some of the soil from the
of raots. The plants should l>e kept in a
, airy greenhouse, near the glass. They will
er early and well next year. —J. D. E.
agonias for baskets.— I saw the other
a fine plant of Begonia glaucophylla growing
tasket suspended from the roof of one of
plant houses. Its beautiful panicles of
tamon scarlet flowers, contrasting pleasingly
i it? fine dark glaucous foliage, entitle it to
•remost place among plants suitable for
lets either in conservatories or drawing-
us.—C. S.

using in conjunction with Ferns and similar
subjects, to finish off the edges of the groups, or
to carpet the ground underneath taller plants.—
Alpha.

Oantua dependens.— I have had a plant
of this on a rafter in a curvilinear greenhouse
for these last twenty years, and every spring it
has formed a waving arch of floral beauty, the
point of every shoot carrying pendulous bunches
of rose-coloured flowers in great abundance.
The plant grows in a border of common loam
along with Roses and climbers, the roots of
course being under the side stage, and the hot-
water pipes are frequently deluged with water
from the pathway. The Cantua is very liable
to red spider ; therefore the syringe should be
freely used. It is a plant of vigorous growth
and will soon reach the top of a ‘ 20 -foot rafter,
but I prefer Cantua bicolor to C. dependens,
the flowers of bicolor being a rich, reddish
yellow or bronze, and consequently very attrac¬
tive. It also grows and blossoms freely when
planted out. The flowers are dispersed along
the young shoots, and not in such large terminal
bunches as in the case of C. dependens. I find
both to be very useful for drawing-room deco¬
ration.—K. H.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 103 .)

woera in the grreenhouse. —'The varie-
*d Acer Negundo forced looks well against the
i glossy green foliage of the Camellia and simi-
'Lmts as a background. For forcing all that
eccssary is to pot it early in autumn, and
lge it out of doors in some sheltered spot till
3 taken into the forcing house just after
Utmas. This Negundo is generally grown
he shape of standards, but for many purposes
irf bushes are quite as good. Small plants
t are readily obtained by budding it on the
m leaved form, but of course they take some
e afterwards to grow into plants large enough
forcing. As stocks for budding seedlings
preferred, and the operation should be per-
aed in the same way and about the same
e as in the case of Roses. The bark of the
:k must be fresh and green, so that it will
irate readily and heal quickly. In selecting
buds, do not take any in which the leaf
oediately ml joining is nearly white, as the
lability will be that in the leaves of the em-
o bud the same pale hue will preponderate
mch an extent that it will not have sufficient
wr to grow ; choose rather buds near where
re is a fair proportion of each colour in the

'ine-foliaged Begonias from seed.—
these Bengonias are increased without
iculty by division or by cuttings made of the
res, so that it is by no means necessary to
*e them from seed ; yet by sowing seed,
hough nothing may be obtained superior, or
:n equal, to some of the older kinds, it is very
eresting to watch the young plants gradually
•eloping their adult characters, for the
inge that takes place in them is very great.
>’ flings are obtained from home-sown seed
that is, having three or four distinct varieties
bloom at the same time I intercrossed them
o with the other, and wffien the seed was ripe
ww sown in a shallow pan without being
vered in any way, except a pane of glass laid
en*. till germination took place. So treated
u placed in the plant stove the seedlings come
' quickly and in great profusion, and as soon
large euough to handle they were pricked off.
ter that they grew rapidly, and were soon
tablUhed in little pots, when a glance over
era at that time gave great promise of some-
rag new. In some the leaves were of a daz¬
ing silvery whiteness ; in others there was the
•U'3ground colour, with bright green punctures;
d some were regularly striped and branded,
fclouded and freckled in various ways ; but
w a time, as they assumed their adult forms,
» promise of novelty disappeared, and the
. < partook of the character of ordinary
a". taing the case, it may be said

’.here is no advantage in propagating them
way ; but, apart from any other con*
rations, seedlings, wnen in 4-inch or
“tfhpoU, make pretty little specimens, and
lt that size very useful for decorative pur-
such as where. groupng^s erm4j>;

ycd^r|l^pr«

The Peach and Nectarine.

The characteristics of the Peach and Nectarine
being interchangeable {i.e. a Peach stone may
produce a Nectarine, or vice versa) for all prac¬
tical purposes, they may be classed as one. The
same uncertainty exists as regards the large
and small-flowered varieties, they also being
interchangeable. It is thought by some that
the small flower Peaches and Nectarines set
better, or, in other words, they suffer less from
cold weather in spring than do the large-
flowered kinds. This coincides with my
own opinion and experience, but so many of
the best varieties have large flowers, which
cannot be done without, at any rate at present,
that the question of discarding them cannot
now be entertained. Still, it is a matter that
might be kept in sight and further evidence
collected.

Soils.

All stone fruits do 1 est in a calcareous soil,
as lime is a necessity for them, so much being
used up in the manufacture of the stones con¬
taining the seeds. And I am convinced, from
actual experience, that much of the weakness of
wood and blossom, and the falling of the fruit
during the stoning time, is owing to the scarcity
of lime in the soil. But it is very easy to add
lime or chalk to a soil when needed. Some
recommend it to be given in the shape of old
mortar rubbish mixed with the soil, others give
the crude, raw chalk ; and sprinklings of air-
slacked lime on the surface of the border, lightly
forked in, will answer every purpose. There is
no doubt that turfy soil— i.e., soil full of the
fibres of grasses and other plants—does give a
stimulus to growth, especially in the early life
of the tree. And if, when the encouragement
from that source fails (which in time it does
and must fail), fresh turf could be placed round
the roots, the lives of the trees might be pro¬
longed indefinitely; but this is just the very
thing which only a few can do. Turfy loam is
very difficult to get, as no one likes to have the
turf pared off their best pastures ; and in the
suburbs of town to purchase such material
makes fruit growing very expensive. Where
loam cannot be obtained, the natural soil may
be improved for fruit culture by a little trouble
and foresight. First, there are the parings from
the edges of the roads and walks ; then there
are sure to be ditches requiring to be cleared
out and deepened. Occasionally there are ponds
and watercourses to be improved and cleared.
Then there is dtbris of all kinds, from the
prunings and cuttings of hedges, and trees, and
shrubs, to the weeds and refuse which are con¬
stantly accumulating. If the soil is heavy,
there are lumps of clay, which may be exposed
to the action of fire, and added to the heap of
other matters to open it up and correct its
acidity. Wood ashes, again, may, with soot and
lime, be added. In this way, by looking far
enough ahead, the fruit borders may be made
e productive without increasing the cost, and

compost may be added as a top dressing, or be
placed round the roots when lifting takes
place.

Repairing the Border.

In the first instance, or in remedying any
neglect subsequently, if the subsoil is bad, the
roots must l>e kept out of it. And this can only
bo effectually done by having an impervious
bottom to the border--4 inches of concrete will
do—and if there is coarse gravel, brick rubble,
or stones on the place handy, then concrete will
be cheapest. The bottom of the border should
be from the right, inclinating, to throw off the
water before the concrete foundation is laid.

1 in 12 will generally suffice for that purpose,
and if needful a drain should be run along the
front of the border. The concrete, in the case
of a high wall and wide border, need not extend
all across the border ; from 6 to 8 feet will be
quite enough, as if the roots descend when they
have passed over the concrete they can be
lifted periodically ; in fact, this will be a great
advantage to them, as it will give an oppor¬
tunity to examine their condition, aud add a
little fresh turf or compost if needed. It is an
excellent plan, w’here the soil is not naturally
adapted for the choicest kinds of fruits, never to
lose touch altogether of their roots. For the
culture of fruits good brick walls are best, and
they are also cheapest. Some day, perchance,
glass may take the place of bricks to a certain
extent, but it will Ikj a gradual process ; and
for many a year brick walls will enclose the
gardens of first-class villas. For stone fruits
flues in the wall are a great advantage, though
I suppose scarcely anyone builds them now¬
adays ; but as I remember them yearn
ago they were useful to ripen the wood
in autumn, and to ward off frost in
spring. Another advantage they had—peach
walls in those days were always dry by
reason of their being hollow. A flued wall,
even if the fires are never lighted, is better
than a solid wall, because it is dryer, and, con¬
sequently, wanner. The height of the wall
will vary according to circumstances and posi¬
tion, but for a garden of an acre 12 feet is a
nice height. And the coping should be sound
and good (York stone being the best), projecting
on each side three inches, the lower edge of the
coping being grooved to collect and cast off the
w'ater clear of the wall.

Planting.

The border should have a mouth or two to
settle before the trees are planted. The peach
will move successfully when of considerable
size, but if such trees have to be bought the
expense w ill be considerable. Taking all things
into consideration, if I had a peach wall to
plant I should not select trees older than one
year, trained, nicely balanced as to branches,
wdth the wood of moderate strength and well
ripened. The trees should be bought early in
autumn and brought home. If the borders are
not ready for planting, the trees wfill take no
harm if the roots receive the necessary
trimming, and are heeled in somewhere. Select
those trees only w’hich have stout, healthy
stems, and are free from all appearance of
canker and gum. It is certain that some trees
fail through want of reciprocal action or
lack of fitness for each other in the stock
and scion. The trees should be planted
before Christinas. I like to plant about
14 feet apart, and rearrange the trees at
a future time if more room be needed. If the
wood is well ripened, and there is an equal
number of shoots on each side, very little
heading back will be required, only removing
the unripe points of the shoots, cutting to a
wood bud, as the disbudding which peaches arc
submitted to will always equalise the flow of
sap. As a rule that mode of training is best
which satisfies us best, for it is certain tliat any¬
thing we are prejudiced against will not succeed
in our hands. Fan training is the system
generally selected for stone fruits, and that
shape is generally given to them in the nurseries,
one great ad vantage it possesses in offering
facilities for filling up vacancies when a branch
dies. But the very principle w r hich is thus an
advantage, is also, in most people’s hands, a
disadvantage, because it permits (I had almost
said encourages) that overcrowding of branches
which is the bane of stone fruit culture on walls.
Other systems of training are the horizontal pure
and simplbj f^l^/giP^rizcutu 1 with an upward

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

122

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[May 17, 1884.

tendency. I find the latter plan to answer well.
The young trees were bought in as maidens,
were planted without heading down, the main
shoot w'as trained up vertically, and the side
shoots laid in with a rise of one foot in six.
The bottom of the wall will be the W’eak place,
as it is in all kinds of training, but the diffi¬
culty is not felt in the case of young trees ;
and, as the trees grow older, the difficulty must
be met by dropping down the main branches of
the tree and opening the centre. And this will
be required sometimes, no matter how the trees
are trained.

Disbudding.

The Peach bears its fruit on the young wood
of the previous year, and in order to leave the
wood in strong lorm, and well ripened, it must
be thinly placed on the tree, hence the absolute
necessity for disbudding. There w T ill pro¬
bably always be a difference of opinion as to
the best time to do so important an operation.
Some say disbud as early as possible, as a tree
suffers less w'hen its shoots can be rubbed off
very early, leaving little or no scar behind.
Others say leave the young shoots on for a time
to shelter the young fruit in our cold springs.
For myself I like to begin disbudding early,
but I should not think of doing the work
during a spell of cold w'eather. Of two evils
choose the least, and I think if the disbudding
is done pretty early, during, say, a week’s genial
w'eather, no great check will be given or harm
done. It is better to do the work tentatively.
Say, first, we go over the trees and remove all
foreright shoots, w’hich perhaps I need not ex¬
plain are those which grow' straight from the
point of the branch, and as these will be of
no use to lay in they should be removed early.
In disbudding the side shoots it will, or at
least should, oe kept constantly in mind that
the healthiest and best shoot at the base of each
of the present bearing shoots should bo left
for taking its place, and as stone fruit
will not remain on the tree without the
presence of a leader at the end of each
branch beyond the fruit, this also must be
provided for. Thus, when the disbudding is
finished—in the case of a full-sized tree, at any
ra te—there will be some healthy growing shoots
at the base of each bearing shoot, for the pur¬
pose of taking its place w'hen it is cut away, and
another young shoot at the end to carry on the
circulation. During the season, if the wood
appear crowded, the leading shoots may be
pinched back to make room to 6 or 8 inches, but
the shoots at the base should be laid in full
length. By far the greater number of fruit
growers lay in the young wood indiscriminately,
whether it comes on the upper or low'cr side of
the branches. They act on the principle of
filling the base as quickly as possible. But
looking at the matter from a scientific stand
point, it would be an advantage to take the
young wood only from the upper side of the
brandies. It is true that when one has a w'all
to fill, the exigencies of the situation often com
pels them to take the wood where they can
get it, and spread it over the surface of the
wall as speedily as possible. Still, where
the disbudding and other cultural w'ork has
to be done ny persons of limited know¬
ledge and training, it is easier and simpler
to work according to a plan which lays down
exact rules for our guidance, rather than one
which leaves a good deal to individual judg¬
ment. If the disbudding is finished in the
course of three weeks or. a month after it is
begun, no great check will be given, and the
young fruits will not be unduly exposed. As the
young shoots progress they will require to be
laid on either by nailing or tying, or else some
windy day or night many of them may be
broken down and mined.

Thinning the Fruit.

This should take place as soon n3 all danger
of frost is over. It is difficult to advise as to
what should constitute a crop of Peaches or
Nectarines. And after all most people in the
case of fruit crops please themselves, and as a
rule injure the trees by over sapping. There is
a good deal of covetousness in average human
nature, and, perhaps, it is no use railing ftgainst
it. And I will say, further, that Peaches should
not lie nearer to each other than 6 inches, if
fine, good-flavoured fruit are required, and it is
wished for the trees to have a long and fruitful
life.

Digitized by

Mulching and Watering, i
These are important matters, as much needed
help may be given by a coat of manure spread
over the surface in summer or hot weather,
when the tree is carrying a heavy crop. Water¬
ing both at the root and over the foliage is also
a necessity—in fact, it is not half enough
attended to. There would be fewer unhealthy
trees if the borders were better made, and the
roots kept more under control, and in times of
pressure their wan s, in the shape of food and
drink, regularly attended to.

Gathering the Fruit.

Peaches should never be allowed to hang long
enough on Ihe trees to fall of their own accord,
as, if bruised, they go black, and decay imme¬
diately ; and, in gathering, they must be
handled very carefully. Take the fruit in the
hand, grasping it with the ends of the lingers,
distributing them round the fruit, bringing the
leverage (the little, at least, that is required) to
bear upon the back of the fruit, near the wall.
If a moderate pressure detaches the fruit, it
drops into the palm of the hand without any
damage, and can be placed in a basket lined with
cotton wool, and when ft layer of fruit is
placed over the bottom of the basket they
should be laid on a shelf in the front room on
which a sheet of cotton wadding has been placed.
When gathered tliree or four days before they
are ripe, Peaches may be kept a week or longer
in a cool room in very good condition. In order
to secure high-coloured, well-flavoured fruit,
as it advances to the colouring stage, the leaves
which hang or project over them should be
pushed on one side. In some instances a whole
leaf may be pinched off in order to let in sun¬
shine and air. In other cases the removal of
half a leaf will meet the case, and when the
object of full exposure lias been secured no more
leaves should be removed, as they perform a
most important work in the economy of the
tree.

Pruning.

Google

When the fruit is all gathered, the branches
which bore them should be removed to let in a
flood of light to ripen the wood on which next
year’s crop depends. In the case of trees which
are still extending, there will be less wood to
cut away, as some of these bearing-shoots will
be required for extending. Still, all branches
not actually required should be cut off and
taken away. When the leaves fall, loose all
the young wood from the wall, and allow the
air to play all round it. The pruning will be
finished in February, just before the flower
buds expand, and will consist in smoothing
with a 8harj> knife all rough surfaces occasioned
by disbudding, and shortening, more or less,
unripe wood, always cutting to a wood bud for
the purpose of securing a leader. The blossom
buds are always distinguishable from the wood
bud when they begin to swell in February, the
former being round and plump, whilst the wood
buds are long and pointed at the ends.
Frequently, too, the blossom buds are arranged
in pairs, with a wood bud between them, and it is
always safe to cut to a group of buds of this
character.

Insects and Diseases.

It is better to prevent than to cure, even
when the cure is certain ind rapid in its action.
And as regards the struggle with insects,
health and vigour are the best antidotes, for
insects usually fight shy of a healthy tree. It
is when the condition of the tree lias been
lowered by bad management that insects
become so troublesome. The aphis family, the
black and green flies, are very troublesome, and,
if neglected, very difficult to deal with, because
they entrench themselves as it were in the
curled-up foliage, where washes from the
syringe cannot penetrate. Winter dressings of
insecticide are very useful. I still use Gishurst
compound ; it is cheap, cleanly, and efficient.
Perhaps among the more recent introductions
there may be something better ; but at pre¬
sent I have not met with anything. We use
it by dissolving from 4 to 6 ounces in a
gallon of warm water, and it is used when it
cools down to about 90 degs. A brush is used
for the thick branches, the young wood being
washed with a sponge. This may be done any
time before the buds Become too prominent. As
the season advances a constant watch should be
kept, and if any insects appear, which some¬

times they do, before the fruit are set, dustmq
Tobacco powder among the leaves and ll<nr<a
Later on, it will be as well to use the povrda,
sometimes as a preventative, as the aphi<ie»<i*
like the smell of Tobacco. Two or three trai
during the growing season much benefit t£
arise from washing the trees with a weak scis,
tion of soft soap, or the soap suds from u*-
laundry will be beneficial, applied with tfc
syringe or engine. Tobacco liquor, in Uk
cases, constitutes, with the powder ator*
named, a remedy that cannot easily be boia
This Tobacco liquor can be obtained frcmtii-
Tobacco manufacturer at Is. per gallon, irit
gallon of the liquor will make 6 gallons i
wash, with half a pound of soft soap*ii&
Some use an addition, or alone, half apid;(
paraffin oil. The oil and soap will blend ui
low temperature, or when exposed for some ta
(several hours) to a temperature below fred*
point.

The Red Spider is a troublesome little fdhi
on light soils, and in hot seasons, but other**
he is almost harmless. Water is the best resel
if taken in time. Sulphur mixed in smallqai-
tities with the water will be useful both agaaf
spider, and also is effectual in all forms rf
mildew. The way to apply it is to mix a safi
handful of sulphur with water in a
basin into a paste, and then it will readily ati
with a larger bulk of water. On dry level sdlj
much subject to mildew* and spider, it is btttq
to use a little sulphur occasionally asifd
ventative, w’hether spiders or mildew .rj
present or not.

BlUter ami Curl are the result of cold,
the cure wrill be found in more shelter, fad
trees should never be planted in a cold, draag^
place, as they W'ill not succeed till by sea
means or other the cold current have [<*
stayed. Screens of reeds have been foaadi
service, placed at right angles across the bora
I have seen evergreen hedges used in the a
way. Trees that are suffering from cur!
blister (and I may say the blister lam refenii
to is not the curl which comes later on
the trees are attacked with insects) should hr
the bad leaves picked off, and should i
encouraged in every way to make more grew*

Transplanting Large Trees.

No other kind of fruit trees move with
little injury as does the Peach. The UrM
sized trees may be moved without the los^O
crop, if the work be done at the riaht fe*
(autumn) and with care. I am persuade! ii 'ii
trees were more often lifted, and if atsidw
moval they had fresh soil placed around tkr
roots, there w'ould be fewer failures than tka»
are at present. When a tree is in had feed#
lift it carefully up, turning in some soil
turfy loam if it can be had, and place round tv
roots, placing them within 9 inches of tk bf
face, and when hot weather sets in,
coating of manure to keep the surface nircs,
and encourage the roots to remain there,
observant fruit grow'er requires to be tola u
short-pointed, freely-flowering woodcaniKjb
obtained from deep-rooting—in fact, the *3
roots are of no use to wall trees, as theynewS
anchors to fasten them in the ground; an 1
roots only encourage the production of fed* 1
spray, which have to be cut away.

Protecting the Blossoms.

For more than twenty years I have ti
in various w'ays protecting the
of fruit trees, and if I was beginning an*
now, with the accumulated experience <*
past to guide me, I should have more fait
feathery sprays of Yew, or the common
Fern, placed in among the blossoms, v -
double thickness of fishing net over all, ti^
the use of expensive nets or curtains. I*®
or more years ago I had a number ol
appliances, but as they wore out t*wy
never replaced, as we had lost faith m
Healthy aiul vigorous trees seem to reel 1111 ' 1
protection than weakly ones, therefore our
efforts should lie directed to the attain®
the former, and the work of protection
much lightened; such, at least, has been ^
experience. Glass, in any form, may be ru
mended, either as wide movable coping*, ,
lcan-to or span-roofed houses; especially S
desirable in bleak situations. But there
always remain a considerable munl*r o
where-soine simple form of nrotection ( iU1

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

May 17, 1884.]

GARDENING ILL USTRA TED

128

jnpler the better) call oldy be given. And
wrc is no better way than the one I have stig-
wted, of sprays of Yew or Fern tucked under
le branches bo os to shelter the blossoms, with
ouble netting over to keep off the cold storms
ad prevent the sprays of Yew becoming loose
ad blowing away.

Varieties.

The following are excellent varieties :—
Peaches. —Early Crawford, Hales Early,
.oyal George, Noblless, Condor, Goshawk,
adv Palmerston, Princess of Wales, Golden
agle.

Nectarines. — Lord Napier, Rivere’s Early
range, Elruge, Humboldt, Pine Apple.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

1144vS.— Ivy on Oak trees.— If the tree
i a large and healthy one, the Ivy is not
kely to injure it for many years. It is only
hen the Ivy runs up to the topmost branches
nd envelopes them in a mass of leaves that it
oes much harm. Of course it robs the soil
eing of a hungry nature, and therefore young
nd sickly trees are better without it.—J. C. B.
11466.— Green fly. —Three ounces of soft
»p to a gallon of water will kill green fly
ithout the aid of Tobacco liquor. If there are
hrips or red spider on the plants, about half-
pint of Tobacco water should be added. Suffi-
ient of the mixture should be prepared to dip
he plants in. It is, however, much better to
aruigate the house with Tobacco smoke.—
. D. E.

11467.— Glazing’ greenhouse.— You can-
ot make a sound job of it without using
utty. The glass should be bedded in putty,
mI then tacked in—t.e., made secure with
mall headless nails. Putty should not be used
utside, but three coats of paint should be put
*n the outside. It will effectually prevent rain
rom getting in.—J. D. E.

S. M. G.— Your letter was so smeared with ink that we

tall} could not read it; kindly send again.- M. A’.—If

ou search the Ferns by candle-light you will probably find
green caterpillar on them.

Names Of plants.— H r . Forrester. —1, Gardenia inter-

tedla; 2, G. radican-, major.- The Elm*.— 1, Selaginclla

t^lcmfera; 2, 8. apoda; 3, S. Mertensi; 4, 8. ccosia.-

l L. L.—l, Ncphrolepis exaltata ; 2, Poly podium vulgare

'truJarerum; 3, P. nlgrescens.- G. P. B. S .—Prunus

adua (Bird Cherry).- V. C.—l, Lvcaste lanines ; 2,

>ncidium ercodes ; 3, Tropwolum Lobbianum variety ; 4,
pities of Mesenibryanthemum ; 6, Kerria Jaixinioa
I. pi.)- J. //. At air .—A kind of Chrysanthemum.

ugcr specimen) ; 3, Species of Oxalis ; 4, Salvia Heeri.-

’• Eason. —1, Species of Aspidium (please send

»tarcr frond later on); 2, Spinna la;vigata; 3, Ribes
iPeum ; 4, Sparmannia africana.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.— All communications
w intertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
o/ the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
dating to business to the Publisher. The name and
ddrnsof the sender is required, in addition to any nom
•«plunie to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
houU always bear the number and title of the query
tnswrrtd. Wh-vi more than one query is sent each should
* 671 8 separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
UfcDEnx.j going to press a considerable time before the day
y jrdlication, it is not possible to insert queries and com-
outturns the week they are received. Queries not
W**rrd should be sent to us again.

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
** ye named at one time, and this only when good
JMcimeiu are sent. Wc do not urulertake to name, varieties
RpruL* flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas,
*(««« can only be correctly named by a specialist who
p tV mAjni of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
nt. respecting plants or flowers sent to name shouUt always
Pfcwpany the parcel.

to^-Fowla trespassing in meadow.— Will
M voder kindly inform me what course to take to pre-
■»’ » neighbour’s fowls straying in a field which 1 want to
up for hay ?—Vexed.

J1HB. — Fly on Pansies. —Coukl any reader give me
yymxtlon as to the treatment of green fly on Pansies ?
Wj'tar every bloom was eaten, and it was ini]>osslblc to
«»t for a show. I have tried several things as a
but they were of no use, such as soapsuds. Tobacco
** I have grown Pansies for eight years, but never
f «v trouble with them previously. This year I find
[f them out of the frame they are in a living mass,

uippeartobe in a very unhealthy condition.— Dyhart.
[Nitt.-Lime for land.— What is the comparative
* quicklime and gaslimo for a clay-soil garden, and
nailing with road scrapings, sods, &c., for a top
on grans land ? I can get quicklime delivered at

, ^ on grass land ? I can get quicklime delivered i
, 1 and gaslime at 5«.; w*nV'l7 F is Hie cheaper#-

M Digitized by ’V l

0

11518.—Planting out Camellias.— Will any corre¬
spondent kindly inform me if I can safely remove a large
Camellia out of a 12 in. pot and place it against the back
wall of a cool greenhouse ? How and when would it 1>e
done ?—J. M.

11519.— Double white Clematis.— May I ask
advice about a double white Clematis (Lucy Lemoine),
which has been planted in an east border— i.e., facing east
—but entirely sheltered from the cold wind, and which,
having removed to another house where I cannot plant it
outdoors, I nqyr want to take up and grow in a large
pot for climbing in the conservatory ; is it too late to do
this now ? The plant had made many early shoots, but
was cut down about a fortnight since by frost, and has hut
one shoot about a foot in length.—M. L.

11520.—Peach tree not fruiting.—1 have a Peach
tree in cool groenhouse, w hich is apparently very healthy.
It has been planted about four years, and blossoms very
freely, but they never set Can anyone give me a reason
or a cure for this, as I am inclined to pull it up? I have
kept it well watered during the past winter, and the
weather was favourable whilst in blossom.— Bromptonian.

11521.— Mistletoe on Apple trees.— Would any
reader kindly inform me how to make Mistletoe grew* on
Apple trees ’—Anxious Inquirer.

11522.—Cucumbers rotting* off.—I have eight
strong heal thy-looking Cucumber plants, which show-
fruit, but none get larger than a pipe stem, then turn
yellow and die away. The plants have very large leaves
and stems.— 1 Thunder.

11523.—Insects on Cherry trees.— For two or
three years the leaves of my Cherry and other fruit trees
have been much infested with grulis and insects, which do
a great amount of damage. Anticipating the same annoy¬
ance this season, I should esteem it a favour if any reader
of Gardening would say if it be advisable to use a solution
of fresh lime os a wash for the leaves, and if so, what quan¬
tity of lime should he mixed with each gallon of- water,
having regard to the safety of the leaves?—L eslie.

11524.—Exhibition plants.—I am desirous of ex¬
hibiting at our annual flower show (held August 4th) in the
classes as follows .-—Best three window plants, best Fuchsia,
best Geranium, Musk plant, any variety ; Kidney Beans,
runners and dwarfs; Cauliflowers, Cabbages; also dish
of Parsley. Would some kind reador give me a few instruc¬
tions os to sorts to get and when to plant? Would tho
Parsley be best from seeds ? Advice would be thankfully
received by— Would-be Exhibitor.

11626.— Deterioration in Polyanthus.— How is it
that Polyanthus degenerate and have to be occasionally re¬
newed from Beed to keep them in character, whilst
Cheshire Favourite and other named sorts are exhibited at
our auricula shows annually with an average size, good
form, colours bright, and markings correct?— F. M. K.

11626. —Primroses in August. —Will someone
kindly instruct me how 1 may get Primroses in bloom
early in August ?—A. Brtant.

11527.— Tomatoes in Greenhouse.—I have a span-
roof greenhouse (no artificial heating apparatus) 12 feet
long by 7 feet wide, 10 feet high at back, and 0 feet at
front. The end facing the north-east is built of brick the
whole height. The front (12 feet long) faces due west. ;
the entrance end due south. The roof is glass, and the
portions above the staging also glass. The staging is fixed
3 feet from the ground, below- the staging is built of brick.
The greenhouse is fixed against the kitchen wall, and gets
the heat from the kitchen and house, which is very con¬
siderable, by means of a door lending therefrom. Can I
hope to grow Tomatoes successfully i a house in 10

or 11 inch pots placed on the staging aga nst the front (due
west)? What kind of soil is host ? Some people advise
poor soil, and others rich compost.—O. 8.

POULTRY.

Aylesbury ducks.— This breed of ducks
is, without doubt, one of if not the most pro¬
fitable that can be kept. Irrespective of its
great delicacy as a table bird, it is well
adapted for farmyards, and will thrive well
under most circumstances. Its greatest merit
is its early maturity. From Aylesbury and
the surrounding districts enormous quantities
are sent to the London markets, commencing in
March and continuing through April and May.
At the age of seven or eight weeks a pair of
these ducks will weigh about 7 lb., and often
fetch as much a9 £1 per pair, if brought to
market early in the year. In June, however,
they are in perfection, weighing 10 lb. to 12 lh.
the couple, and fetching seven shillings to eight
shillings the pair. Many thousands of pounds
are returned into the Aylesbury district every
year for ducks. They are mostly reared by
agricultural labourers and their wives, the local
name for such being “ duckers.” But it must
not be supposed that it is in Bucks alone
that the Aylesbury duck can be reared and
made to return a profit. It will thrive in most
localities. They are best hatched and reared
by hens, being fit to take care of themselves in
about four weeks’ time. If intended for killing
they should not be allowed to go into water, but
should be kept very clean, and well housed at
night. A good proportion of meat should form
part of their daily food. Let it be well boiled
and out into small pieces, and mixed with their
soft food. Bullocks’ liver is as good as any¬
thing. Tallow' greaves are also very good for
fattening and hastening maturity. Barley-meal
should form the staple in soft food, but must be
varied by maize-meal (scalded), or oatmeal.

Whole maize thrown into a trough of water
should be given the last thing at night. Ayles¬
bury ducks are also excellent layers, especially
iu the winter, and for cooking purposes the
eggs arc invaluable at that season ; besides
which their appearance is good, and their
snow-white plumage, yellow legs, and delicate
pink bills look well on a green sw ard, or around
an ornamental pond. Prize birds have been
known to attain 10 lb. weight.— Andalusian.

Fowls losing: their feathers.—I have several
Brahma-Dorkings, hatched last April, which arc laying
well, and have done so through the winter; they appear
in good health, but are losing feathers round the neck and
breast. Does this indicate disease, or can it bo the first
moult?—H. J. Cox.—{If youi» Jrahma-Dorkings appear in
good health and are laying well, you need nave no fear
concerning tho loss of feathers, which is most prolwibl.v
caused by the cock bird. You might supply a good dust
bath, in which mix a little ]>owdered sulphur. It cannot
be first moult, that will not come to jioss until next
autumn.— Andalusian.]

Fowls with sore eyes.— In answer to “W. T. I’.,"
I have had turkeys similarly attacked, and found bathing
their eyes with warm water every morning quite successful;
also after bathing the eyes, if necessary, apply a lotion of
two grains of sulphate of zinc to one ounce of distilled
water.—F. Peake.

Gapes In chicken.— An experienced poultry keej>er
informs us that he hasnot hadasingle case of this scourge of
the chicken run since he adopted the plan of giving them
no water save what had been well boiled and allowed to
get cold. We are inclined to think that the small worms
found in the throat of the chicken are first imported by
the agency of bad water. Therefore, by destroying all life
in the water by boiling must be a good plan.— Andalusian.

Call ducks. —Where can eggs or live specimens of
call, alias “rail ducks,” be purchased?— Uttoxktvk.— [You
had best apply to Messrs. Fowler, Prebendal Farm,
Aylesbury.]

HOUSEHOLD.

Coltsfoot tea for a cough.— Take a
pint of the leaves of Coltsfoot; after carefully
washing, put them into a cjuart of cold water,
and let it simmer till it is reduced to a pint.
Strain and put to it 2 ozs. of pounded brown
sugar-candy. When cold, pour into a bottle
for use. Dose for an adult, a wineglassful the
first thing in the morning and the last at night.
—Mofugsilite.

To make Coltsfoot wine.— Put 20 lb.
of flowers of Coltsfoot into 22 quarts of cold
water, and let it stand three days; drain
the Coltsfoot well from the liquor through
a sieve, add 3.$ lb. of brown sugar, tne
juice of 3 lemons, of 3 sweet and of 1 Seville
orange, to each gallon of liquor; then put
the whole in a tub with a few spoonfuls of
yeast, let it work three days, stirring it
frequently, drain through a sieve again, ana put
it into a barrel. When done fennenting, add
half an ounce of isinglass, hung the barrel well
up, let it stand six months. Add a bottle of
brandy and bottle it off.— Mofugsilite.

REMEDIES FOR INSECTS.

Gref.n and black fly. —On Roses or Peach
trees, if aphides are very troublesome, it is a
good’plan to use Tobacco water, with which the
trees may either bo syringed or the shoots dipped
in it. The way in which to prepare the Tobacco
water is to steep Tobacco in it, a pound being
sufficient to make four gallons quite strong
enough to kill any aphis. Tobacco juice isoffered
for sale, but I do not find it any better or cheaper
than that which one can make. There are many
insecticides, however, that are good, one of the
safest and best being nicotine soap, which is fatal
to aphides without doing harm to the foliage.
Where many Roses, Peaches, and Cherries are
grown and much insecticide is required, a strong
steep may be made by using Quassia chips,
which may either be boiled or soaked in hot
water, the former being best. With the Quassia
some soft soap should be used, as well as Tobacco,
the proportions being a pound of Quassia and
half a pound each of soap and Tobacco to 12
gallons of water. When strained, this liquor
may be applied with a syringe, and if used at a
temperature of 90 degs. or 100 degs it will do
its work well.

Maggots. —Next to aphides, the worst insect
with which we have to contend is the Rose
maggot, a grub which folds itself up in the leaves,
and in some knowing way brings them in contact
with the flower buds, which it eats out or
destroys. Insecticides do not reach this pest
effectually; the only method of getting at it is
either to pick it out or smash it tn situ ,; the latter
is the most expeditious plan. Ajmmkiuklnd of

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

124

GARDENING ILL VST RAT ED

[Mat 17, 1884.

grub often affects Apricots, and may be searched
out and dealt with in the same way ; but the
maggot to be found on Apples nnd Pears
must either be picked off or knocked down
by means of a forcible washing by the garden
engine. The Gooseberry caterpillar is another
plague, against which various remedies have
been recommended, one of the most effectual
being Hellebore powder, and another almost
equally good is the liquor in which Foxglove
leaves have bpen boiled, applied by means of a
syringe. Lime water also destroys it, but it
should be used clear, so as to leave no deposit
on the Gooseberries ; and as prevention is said to
be better than cure, it is a good plan to scatter
lime under the bushes in the autumn, which
destroys the grub in the ground before it can
hatch.

Red Spider, though most minute, is a pernicious
insect, as when it gets on Peaches and Nectarines
it givesthem an impoverished look by sucking the
sap out of the leaves. The primary cause of red
spider is poverty, brought on either through dry¬
ness at the root or over-cropping. The remedy,
therefore,suggests itself, viz., thinning out the fruit
sufficiently and watering. Before watering is
done, however, the ground immediately around
the trees should be mulched with half-rotten ma¬
nure, which keeps the earth uniformly cool and
moist, as when water is given it can soak in, but
without the manure it quickly evaporates. What
red spider dislikes very much is being wetted,
and, that being so, its quarters may bo made
most uncomfortable by means of a garden engine
or syringe, a shower bath of this kind being also
most refreshing to the foliage afterahot summer’s
day. S.

D AHLIAS ! DAHLIAS ! ! — Twelve choice

dingle, best-named varieties, including White Queen,
Paragon, Yellow Gera, and Scarlet Gera, strong plants,
3«. 6d ; unnamed, 2s : seedlings, Is. per dozen; double
varieties, twelve choice-named exhibition, strong plant*,
2d. 6d.. carriage free. All plants carefully an l securely
packed with damp moss in boxes manufactured expressly. —8.
COOPER, Hodleigh, Suffc"

AMATEUR GARDENERS and others, buy

your plants and tloweni of an experienced, practical
grower and avoid disappointment. Pelargonium*, Regal,
Show, and Fancy; twelve choice named varieties, strong
plants, make fine show this season. 3s. 6*1.; six for 2s. Gera¬
niums, new Ivy-leaved, double and Bingle, six choice named
plants, charming colours, 2s. Chrysanthemums, best named
varieties, Japanese, summer, autumn, and Christmas flower¬
ing, strong plants, 2d. dozen ; two dozen for 3s. fid. Fuchsias,
strong plants, twelve magnificent named varieties, including
such splendid kinds os Mrs. Marshall. Kingsburyuna, Suuray,
and that wonderful novelty Aurea superba, 2s ; two dozen,
3s 6d. All carriage free, securely packed. -S. COOPER,
Nurseryman, Hodleigh, Suffolk.

pHLOX DRUMMONDII GRANDIFLORA,

-L in 12 varieties, German scabious, Gaillardia grandiflora,
Dianthus (including those magnificent kinds. Eastern Queeu
and Crimson Belle), Perilla, dwarf Ageratum, blue Lobelia,
white Lobelia, splendid hybrid Polyanthus, double red, double
white, and gold-leaved Daisies. All 6d. dozen, three dozen
Is. 3d., six dozen 2s ., free S. COOPE R, Hodleig h, Suffolk.

rjALCEOL ARIAS, Golden Gem, strong,

Lf healthy, autumn-struck plants, Is. 3d. dozen, 7s. l(w;
Lobelia, Blue Stone (the best be*Uler), and Ageratum, Duchess
of Edinburgh, best dwarf blue, from cuttings, 9d. dozen, 5s.
100; Heliotrope*, strong, Is. dozeu, 6s. 100; twelve choioe
named exhibition varieties Verbenas, including that grand
kind. Queen of Verbenas, 2s. 6d.; Geranium, Mrs. Parker,
great novelty, beautiful variegated foliage, and splendid
double pink flowers, forming a flno contrast, good plants,
Is. 6d. each. A clergyman in Ireland writes : “ I thank you
much for plants received in a very healthy condition, and
far beyond my expectations.”—S. COOPER, The Nurseries,
Hadlcigh, Suffolk. Established 1858.

PANSIES (Show and Fancy).—The very cream

L only of the most noted Scotch and other raisers, and the
very newest and most select variety. Warranted true to
name. 12 for 3s., free, show or fancy.—8. 8HEPPERSON,
Florist, Prospect House, Bel per, Derbyshi re, _

F NTSTEMON3.—A grand collection of these

real garden gems from the most noted Scotch raisers.
12 new and select varieties, correctly named, 3s., free.—8.
SHEPPERSON, Belper. __

flAZANIA SPLENDENT, Is. Gd. ; Red

Ll Salvias, Is 6<1.; Blue Salvias, Is. 6d ; double Hollyhocks,
2s. 6d.; Begonias, tuberous-rooted, strong-flowering plants,
3«. 6d. ; Alpine auriculas, Is. 6d.; Meaembryanthemum varii-

S Hum. Is. fid. ; Cineraria seedlings, from very best strain. Is.;

itto, from best double kinds, Is. 6d.; all above at per dozen.
The following at 6d. each, three for Is. 3d : -Double Petunias,
name l. Tree Carnations, winter-flowering. La Belle (white),
and Dark Beauty, Nicotiana aflinis, Lemon Verbena, night-
sccntel Stock, Marguerites Revo d’Or (best yellow!, Grandi-
tiorum (best white), and Ccelestis (blue), Gloxinias, Abutilons,
Bouvardias, Veronicas, double yellow and double scarlet,
Nasturtiums, Diplacus grandiflora. Artillery plants, and
Libonia grandiflora: all carriage free.—S. COOPER, Had-
leigh, Suffolk^

T7ERBENAS (Seedlings).—Those grow and

* bloom more freely than named Boris. They are grand
for mixed bedding. 12 for Is., free.—S. SHEPPERSON,
Florist, Belper.

F UCHSIAS.—12 new and select varieties ;

the very best only. Double and Single, including new of
1883, 2 s., free.-8. SHEPPERSON, Be l per. _

C HK. YSAN THEM UMS. —The best varieties

only of early large-flowered Pompone Japanese. &c. 12
new and select varieties, 2s., free —S. SHEPPERSON,

Be lper. __

& ERANIUMS.— Pearson and all leading

raisers. 12 newest nnd most select varieties, including
new of 1833. 12 varieties, 3s.; correctly named.— S. SHKP-
PE RSON . Belper.___

D AHLIAS.—Single Seedlings that will bloom

well this year, from new varieties of 1883 only; very
extra. 12 for 2s., free —S. SHEPPERSON, Florist, Prospect
House, Belper, Derbyshi re,

fJACTUS SEED, from 24 best varieties, mixed
L/ packet, Is. Liquorice.—This root, the flavour of which
is so well known, can easily be produced from seed, Is. packet.
—The UNIVERSAL SEED CO., IJrmston, Manchester.

TV/TAW’S FERTILISING LIQUID MANURE;

for promoting u vigorous growth, large blooms, and the
early flowering of all kinds of pot and garden plants. The
ingredients in sealed packets at 6d., Is., and 2s. each; parcels
post 3d. extra. Si>ecial terms to the trade. Maw’s large size
effective Garden Syringe, 18 inches by 2 inches, free, 2s. 7d.
Accurate self-registering Thermometers, free, Is. 5d. 8, Clay-
lands Road, Loudon, S. W.

HR EAT ST. JAMES’ HALL, MANCHESTER.

LJ —Grand Exhibition of Hardy Plants commencing on
Friday, May .0, and following dap. Wanted to buy
flowering effective hardy plants for above, part money given
upon agreemeut. remainder upon delivery, every subject to
bo exhibited in the name of those who supply them. Every
convenience will be given to persons who wish not to sell, but
exhibit -J F. JOHNSON, Secretary.

"OLOWER SEEDS.—Clearance. A few left.

J- 50 packets, Is., free ; also cheap lot of hardy plants.
Is. 9d., free. No lists A. ALLEN, The Dell, Wooburu!
Boaconsflcld.____ (808

ELASTIC STOCKINGS, foPV&H-

J-J cose ami Weakness. 5a. Knee Caps,

( Leggings. Anklets, 3s. 6d„ 4s. Ladies' Ab¬
dominal Belts, 7s. 6d. Railway and Night
Convenience, 12s. fid. Shoulder Braces, 2s 6d.,
prevent stopping. Moc-main Rupturo Truss
(no springs), 12s. fid. Suspensory Bandages :
Cotton, post free, 2s. 9d.; silk, 3s. 9*L Anai
Truss, for Piles, 12s. fid. Sonofrons, for Deafness, 2s. 6d.
Crutches, 5s. Female atteuda ladies. Illustrations, four
st amps.—MILLIK IN & L AWLEY, 165, S t rand, London.

■V7IRGIN CORK.—Handsome pieces, lightest,

V therefore cheapest; 112 lb., 18s. 6*L : 56 lb.. Ils. 6d :
28 lb., 6s. 6*1.—WATSON and SCULL, 90, Lower Thames
Street. Londo n, E.C.

POULTRY WIRE "NETTING, Galvanised,

•L can be obtained nt exceptionally low prices from
FRANCIS MORTON and CO. (Limited), 9. Victorfa Chambers,
V ictoria Str eet, Wes tminster. Price Lists on application.

pVERY MAN HIS OWN TINKER. —Solder-

-*-1 ing Tools, with accessories and instructions by parcels
‘ post, Is 9J.-THE NATIONAL TOOL DEPOT Aston, Bir¬
mingham. £ .-T. ■

Digitized by f

pOOPER’S Champion Guinea Collection of

vJ Bedding Plants, that has given such universal satisfac¬
tion the lost three seasons (os proved by the numerous un¬
solicited testimonials received), now ready, contains 30
dozen strong healthy plants, comprising 10 dozen Geraniums
(including 5 dozen Vesuvius, and half-dozen each Mrs. Pol¬
lock, and that magnificent bedder, Henry Jacoby), 3 dozen
Calceolarias, 2 dozen each Verbenas, Petunias, and Agera¬
tum ; 3 dozen Lobelias: 1 dozen each Heliotropes, Iresine,
Perilla, double Asters, Zinnia elogans. Cineraria maritima,
and Phlox grandiflora; half-dozen, each named, double or
single Dahlias aud Fuchsias. Package included. Half
above, 11s.; quarter, 6s.—8. COOPER, The Nurseries, Had-
leigh, Suffolk._

pREEFERS.—Virginian Creeper, and Veitchii,

L/ CobsBa, Pyracanthus, and Japanese Honeysuckle, Eccre-
mocarpus, Passion Flower, Ceanothu* azureus, Clematis
Flomula, Habrothamnus clegans, and Tacsonia Van
Volxemi, all flne strong plants 1 and 2 years old, 9*L each ; two
for Is. 3d. Canary Creeper, and Maurandias, three for 6d.,
free. Read copy of letter just received from gentleman at
Brighton“ Plants arrived safely and give porfoct satisfaction.
I shall certainly get some more plants from you later on. 1
consider the ones supplied very cheap, strong plants."
SAMUE L COOPER, The Nu rseries, Hodleig h, 8uffolk.

pARNATIONS and PICOTEES, Carters,

L/ Daniel's, and Connell's superb straius, 12, 2s. 6d.; 24,
4s. fid.; Pinks of above strains, 12, 2s. ; 24, 3s. 6*L ; pansies,
superb prize show and fancy, blotched, striped, quauricolor,
<tc., 12, Is. 6*1. ; 24, 2s. y*l. ; 12 Carnations, 12 Picotees. 12
Pinks, and 12 Pansies for 7s. 6*L All are large healthy
plants, for Immediate effect: free packing guaranteed.—J.
SYLVESTER, I*Ue, Bradford._

OINGLE DAHLIAS.—100 varieties to choose

*0 from. List one stamp. 12 varieties, 2s. 6d. ; 24. 5a. ; 36,
7s. 6*1., named. Ware's, Connell's, and Carter's strains, 12,
Is. 9d. ; 24, 3s.; 100, 10s. 6*1., mixed or separate. All are large
hoalthy plants, from cold frame ; free, as above. _

BEAUTIFUL CLIMBERS. —Doliehos Lab

D Lab (violet), Japanese Honeysuckle, beautiful reticulated
foliage, Passiflora cterulea, blue, aud Mandevilla suaveolens,
beautiful white flower, the four, 2s. ; free, as above.
Flower seeds, 24 varieties in pictorial packets, w ith cultural
directions, 2s. _ _

fJICOTIANA AFFINIS, “Cannell’s Victoria,”

JA handsome Bouvardia-like flowers, deliciously scented,
4 for Is. 6*1. free, as above. Acacias, beautiful fern-like foliage,
4 for Is. 6*1. free. Hollyhock's, “Chaters,” good plants, 6 for
2 h. 6d. ; 4s. 6d. dozen, free. Pyrethrum, single, all colours
mixed, 2s. 6*L dozen. Pyrethrum, French hybrids, double
and single, mixed, 3s. dozen. All free, safely packed.—J.
SYLVESTER, Idle. Bradford.

T7ERBENAS.—Italian striped, very beautiful,

» 2s. per dozen; white, blue, and scarlet, Is. 6d. dozen,

good plants ; blue Marguerites, 3 for Is. 6d. ; Tradescautias,
3 varieties, la. 6d.; all free.-J. SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradford.

rPOMATOES, Carter’s Dedham Favourite,

J- Daniels’ Crimson Queen, and Hathaway's Excelsior, largo
plants. 4 of each, 2s., free.-J. SYLVESTER, Idle. Bradford.

H.UIDING STAR.—The most beautiful white
Vl Dahlia for cutting for wreaths, Ac., 6d. each, or 5s. per
. «a.. __ .—A. STREETER, Florist, Avenue Nursery

gle

doz.; 30s. per 100.

Grays, Essex. __

HOLD AND SILVER TRICOLORTgERA-

VX NIUMS in finest varieties. Splendid strong plantR, from
4-inch pots 3s. 9*L (fine yellow bedding Calceolarias, from

S ’e pots. Is. 3d. ; Dahlias, finest named single varieties, in-
ng White Queen, 4s. ; best double bouquet Dahlias, in-
f— | valuable for cutting, 3*., single pots; seedling single Dahlias,
■ | finest strain known, Is. ; Petunias, beautiful colours, 4d.;
rnoia Pansies, choioe strain, 4d.; double Zinuias, beautiful, 4<L ;
German Asters, 3d. ; Lobelias, 3d.; Golden Pyrethrum, 3d
All per dozen, free. - LAWS and SON Beccles Nurseries. [816

THE

ENCLISH FLOWER CARDEN.

With an Illustrated Dictionary of all the
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With oivr 1,200 Illustration*. Medium Sro. Ik

THE ENGLISH FLOWER GARDEN
ITS STYLE AND POSITION. By Willui
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URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

permitted to run down the hand, there is a decided advantage sometimes in
ss, and they either do not having a tree or two in different aspects, as the
r else the blossoms are im- May Duke in a sunny position will ripen its fruit
et. Whenever anything of a few days earlier than in a less favourable one,
he trees should be lifted and while north aspects may be utilized for retard-

queatiou that

FRUIT.

CULTURE OF CHERRIES.

Cherry Orchards. — The Kentish Cherry
chords, when in bloom in spring, are a pleasant
fht, and in favourable seasons, when the
anches of the trees are borne down with fruit
August, their appearance, at least to the
rners, is pleasanter still. Cherries, like all
her fruits in our climate, have to contend with
Id, ungenial springs, and whoever plants a
lerry orchard, even in the Maidstone district
id other favourite parts of Kent, should care-
lly select and prepare the site for it. Cherries
mt have a situation free from stagnant mois-
ra. The best position for a plantation of them
on the side of a gentle declivity above the
nge of cold fogs. Cherries will thrive well in
stony soil if it be fertile ; I do
>t mean gravelly soil, but land
inch contains a goodly number of
mlders, having a smooth, water-
ora appearance. I have noticed
ich boulders lying on the top of the
nd in some parts of Kent and else-
here. The necessity for trenching
ie land as deep as it will bear has
fen referred to elsewhere, and is an
sential condition for all fruit trees,
wo-year-old trees, that is those

hich have been once cut back, are
le best to plant, though older trees
i&y move safely if they have been
■equently transplanted. It is im-
ortant for a Cherry orchard to be
leltered from the quarter whence
mie the coldest winds. Plantations
f deciduous trees form excellent ,

lelter, and should be planted, if jk

cmible, a year or two before the £

•nit trees are planted ; then by the
me the trees come into bearing the JB

belter will be high enough to render flMjj
ood sendee. Avoid in all cases
eep planting, and stake or secure
he trees from wind-waving as soon
* planting is finished, and take care
i tying the trees that something soft
omes between the bark and the tie.

V piece of old sacking two or three
dds thick is lasting, and answers
he purpose very well. The trees
oust bo headed down, in proportion
o their strength, the spring after
planting. The distance at which
'berry trees should be planted apart
mist depend in some measure upon
he character of the soil and the
<arietiea planted. I have known
rees of the Waterloo variety that
A'ould have been crowded at 30ft.
ipart, but the Bigarrcau on the same
soil was none too thick at 15ft. apart.

The best plan is to plant thick

enough and thin out afterwards,

giving the most fertile and best trees

the most room. Cherry orchards are best laid

'town in grass after the first three or four

years.

Bp5h Cherries may be planted where space
cannot be found for larger trees, but they will
require lifting or root-pruning occasionally to
*'- e P them in a fruitful condition. The May
Ouke, Late Duke, and Morello do well on the
•hhaleb, and require less lifting and root-prun¬
ing than some other kinds. The trees may be
planted in beds or borders about 5 feot or 6 feet
apart, where some temporary shelter could be
‘‘rected on the windward side, projecting over
•d trees 2 feet or 3 feet like a coping to keep
V"‘ blossoms safe in spring. It is not often the
Morello is planted except against a wall, but
tlioagh it does well in such positions, and may
usftl to fill up blanks anywhere, yet it is also
a profitable Cherry to plant either as a dwarf on
' Mahaleb, or as a standard tree in any posi-
twin. The great object to keep in view in the
of dwarf Cherries, esppei^lly in rather
itroug soils, .is to keep thfir roots luaritlie

ing purposes. This is, however, a question that

F roprietors of gardens can decide for themselves.

merely throw out the hint because I have met
with cases in which a dish of Cherries a few days
earlier or later, as the case may be, was appre¬
ciated. To prolong the season of any particular
fruit is sometimes looked upon as a test of skill,
though it is often tke result of mere accident.
If I had a wall to plant with Cherries, and
could take my own course, I should plant the
best maidens I could get 7 feet apart, and
should train them as palmettes, allowing seven
branches to each tree, laying a j’oung branch at
intervals between the main ones. Such a
system covers the wall much quicker
than any other. Of course time would
be gained if young trees, started in
the nursery as horizontals, could be
obtained, but they cannot always be
bought. The advantage of buying
maidens is they cost less money, ana
one can adopt any system of training

t^r - one likes. There is, perhaps, less

necessity for laying in young wood

- in the case of Cherries (always ex-

cepting the Morello) than in that
A of other fruit trees, as Cherries bear

\ so freely and well on spurs. But the

fault belonging to the large old trees,
with which one sometimes meets, is
(especially if they are growing on
heavy soil that has received but little
preparation) the centre in the course
of time ceases to bear, and many
feet of wall become virtually barren.
With a good broad border well pre¬
pared, warm, and dry, this, how¬
ever, will not soon happen. I feel
that the right course to adopt on
indifferent soils, or in places where
i the expense of border-making cannot

be allowed, is to plant the trees
closer together than is usually done,
) and keep the roots near the surface.

) Trees with their roots near the sur-

j face do not make gross shoots, which,

when cut book, are converted into
large ugly spurs that are often flower-
less ; or, if a few blooms appear they
do not set properly, and consequently
fall off without ripening. Those
who have such trees on their walls
must of course do the best they can
with them, and that is to cut out
every alternate branch and fill the
spaces thus left vacant with young
i wood as soon as possible, avoiding

\ overcrowding. In this way barren
trees may be made fertile. The
summer management of the Cherry
iu a trained condition on walls con¬
sists in stopping the young wood,
beginning towards midsummer, and cutting
back to about four or five leaves. In
summer pruning some cut the young wood
back too close, not only in the case of Cherries,
but also in that of other fruits, and, as a con¬
sequence, the buds that might in due course
be converted into flower-buds are compelled
under the excitement of vigorous root-action to
burst into growth. If another leaf or two had
been left on the spurs a little more scope for
; root-action would have been left, and at the

Cherry Belle de Montreuil (natural size).

side were neglected because gentle showers fell
frequently, and the person in charge took it for
granted, without troubling to examino them,
that they did not require water, when at the
same time they were as dry as dust. The light
passing showers made no impression on them ;
in fact, they were cast aside by the foliage. All
such trees should be mulched to check evapora¬
tion, and 2 inches or 3 inches of rich compost, or
half-decayed manure, spread over the surface
of the soil among the trees forms a beneficial
dressing for them.

Cherries on Walls. —In most gardens a wall
is set apart for Cherries, though the system of
grouping together different kinds of fruit3 has
some drawbacks. The advantage belonging to
the plan is that any kind of fruit requiring
special treatment can have its wants attended to
better when grouped together than when
scattered. And such fruit as Cherries, that must
be protected with nets to preserve them from
birds, are more easily covered when growing side
*by side than when separate. On the other

126

GARDENING ILL VST RAT ED

[Mat 24 , 1864 .

longer, draws to itself a larger portion of sap,
which materially helps to preserve the balance
of the tree. The winter pruning of the Cherry
consists in shortening back the young wood
left os spurs and cutting out all ilead and useless
spurs. The youngest trees that have space to till
up may, if their roots are near the surface,
have their shoots laid in full length, and thus
the wall will be more quickly covered.

The Morello is usually employed for furnish¬
ing north walls, not because it does not succeed
in any other aspect, but it thrives so well in all
inferior positions, where choicer fruits do not
ripen well, that some have been led to consider
a north wall necessary for its culture. It will,
however, grow in any position, and I have
already adverted to its use both as a standard
and also a pyramid on the Mahaleb stock ; in
short, the Morello will thrive wherever other
Cherries do well. In its growth and mode of
bearing, this Cherry somewhat resembles the
Peach. It has the same slender, flexible
branches, and produces its blossoms, if the
wood be strong and firm, in the same way ;
indeed, in most gardens the Peach tree is taken
as a model for the Morello, and I do not think
any better system of training or pruning can be
suggested. I have seen Morellos occasionally
spur-pruned like other Cherries, but the trees,
have not, to my mind, been satisfactory. Their
branches should not be too much crowded.
More and better fruits will be obtained by
training the bearing shoots not less than 4
inches apart than when, as is commonly douc,
they are laid in much thicker. The disbudding
and thinning should be done early, and those
left for bearing should be tied or nailed in, or
l>e fastened back to the wall by means of slender
twigs of Privet, or of any other tough shrub.
The same plan is often pursued in the case of
Peaches, and it saves material and avoids driv¬
ing nails into the wall, which would have to be
drawn out again in autumn.

Choice Cherries. — Although excellent
Cherries have long been extensively grown in
some parts of England, it is only within the last
few years that what are termed small fruits,
Cherries included, have become indispensable
in making up the finest desserts. It is not by
anyone supposed that the Cherry can compare
with the Strawberry for general use, but it
makes up for this deficiency by giving us a
longer season and by hanging noon the trees for
many weeks after it is ripe ; indeed, by the aid
of glass, which is now cheap enough, and a few
strips of Haythom’s netting for keeping out
birds, the finest kinds. Grapes excepted, can be
kept longer than any other fruit with which I
am acquainted. But it is not so much of the
uses I wish to speak as of the facility with which
the choicest kinds can now bo brought to per¬
fection in the smallest gardens. In the late
Mr. Knight’s days the limestone slopes in Shrop¬
shire and Herefordshire were thickly planted
w T ith Early Black, Elton, Downton, ana others
which will for ever perpetuate his name, and
they may still be seen luxuriating in the calca¬
reous loam which they love so well. These im¬
mense trees are, of course, growing upon the
free stock, and well illustrate the extension
principle ; but we are indebted to another culti¬
vator, the late Mr. Rivers, not only for cheap
orchard houses in which to grow and keep the
fruit safe from birds and wet, but also for the
introduction of the Mahaleb stock, which adapts
itself to all sorts and conditions of soil, and
reduces inauy of the most vigorous growers into
fruitful pyramids and cordons, fit for pot cul¬
ture or any other use to which the cultivator
feels disposed to put them. We are still further
indebted to him for having raised, introduced,
or brought under our notice many superior
varieties which form a valuable acquisition to
the older kinds. Although many of the newer
kinds (including the fine variety, Belle de Mont¬
real, of which the annexed cut is a good repre¬
sentation) have not been extensively grown on
walls, there can be but little doubt that all of
them will do well if judiciously selected
for the situations they are to occupy, and
the borders, consisting of free calcareous
loam, are well drained and not over deep. At
one time it was thought the Morello was the only
kind that would do well on the north wall, but
. I have found thuLMay Duke, Archduko, Late
Duke, Bohemian Blaclk ERopmUlstok Eagle, and
those two : fineVdijiAd(li, GtfjLilniu: Wood and

Bigarreau Napoleon, fruit extremely well when
planted in narrow borders, 3 feet wide and 2
feet deep, with 12 inches of old lime rubble for
drainage, the principal points, as I have before
observed, being protection from birds and wet
after the fruit is ripe. Where a proper Cherry
house is used for forcing, such kinds as Belle
d’Orleans, May Duke, Black Circassian, Elton,
and Bigarreau Napoleon will give a long succes¬
sion until similar sorts on walls come into use.
For general consumption the May Duke tribe,
including Duchesse de Falluau, Empress
Eugenie, Nouvelle Royale, and last, but not
least, Late Duke, will succeed each other, but
not exactly in the order named, and like the
Hamburgh Grape in its class, will be appreciated
by everyone as long as they can be obtained.
Strong growing kinds like the Bigarreaus, which
ripen late, and all the fine black Cherries are
well worthy of a house in which they may be
grown in pots or tubs, or planted out and
trained to a wire trellis 12 inches from the roof.
As many of them make strong growth when
young, and produce large leaves, the shoots
require plenty of room, and the roots should be
confined to internal lwrders which can l>e kept
dry when the fruit is ripe. E. H. C.

11503. —Colouring Grapes.— There are
various reasons why Grapes do not colour well.
The most fertile source of the evil is over-crop¬
ping. An over crop of Grapes never does colour
well. Want of water at the roots will also
cause it. Some people keep the atmosphere of
the vinery dry, and withhold water from the
roots as soon as the Grapes l>egin to colour.
This is wrong. The right thing to do is to give
the border inside a good soaking with water
when the first berries show signs of colouring.
The surface of the borders should also be
sprinkled every day until the Grapes are ripe.
If you attend to these matters the Grapes will
colour better this year.—J. D. E.

The Gooseberry Caterpillar.— A certain cure
for this troublesome visitor is a solution of white Hellebore
syringed on the plants, under the leaves, &c. The grubs
will at once fall off, and should be killed with a spado.
Fruit should not be eaten till thoroughly washed by min
or syringe.—W. K. Tiiton, Priors Lee, Shifnal,

ROSES.

Rose and Rose elections. —I hasten to
reply to the remarks of my would-be critic, Mr.
W. Taylor, on the above subject. He begs to
inform me that ManSchal Niel is not a Tea, and
that ho fails to find that beautiful Tea Rose
Princess of Wales (which I spoke very highly of
in the Golden class) in any of the best catalogues
of Roses, and says, like Marshal Niel, it is not
a Tea, and that I mentioned Louis van Houtte
among the coloured Teas ; and, lastly, that I
said, “ Do not apply stimulating top-dressing or
liquid manure to Proses.” Firstly, Marshal
Niel is a Tea sceuted Rose, and is placed
amontf the Teas in every catalogue I have ever
looked into, and described as the most magnifi¬
cent Rose in the collection ; further, it is always
exhibited among the Teas, and I never yet saw
it disqualified ; secondly, with reference to
Princess of Wales, it i9 quite possible that
Mr. Taylor has never seen or heard of it.
Instead of Louis van Houtte among the coloured
Teas, it certainly should have been “Souvenir
d’un Ami.” It certainly was a slip this ; but my
mind must have been running on an old favour¬
ite at the time, and, lastly, Idid not say “do not
apply manure to Roses,” nor auything half so
approaching to such nonsense. If any of your
readers will refer to the paragraph on page 84,
April 2Gth, they will see that I wrote just the
opposite. My words were these, in reply to
“ M. P. G.” :—“ If the Roses have already been
planted in richly-prepared ground they will not
require anything more until the buds are getting
plump, about the middle of May, when a
little guano or dried fowl dung should be spread
on the surface of the beds, and raked in. This
will bo far superior to the phosphates mentioned
by 4 M. P. G. Do not apply stimulating top-
dressings or liquid manure to Roses or any other
plant. When not growing freely, wait until the
foliage is healthy.” There was a slight printer’s
error in putting a full-stop instead of a comma
after the word plant, which confused the sepse
of the paragraph. For the information of W.
Taylor, and others who love Rose3, I will de¬

scribe Rose Princess of Wales, as fax as ej
ability will allow me :—Colour, rich goMa
yellow ; outside petals very yellow ; exceeding^
chaste; buds long and pointed, open well
In my selection of 24 Hybrid Perpeto!
Roses for showaud gardeu decoration, I decided
to divide the classes according to colour, at I
did the previous week in selecting the Teas.
Although I have not the slightest hesitation is
placing La France as the finest Hybrid Per¬
petual Rose in cultivation, it would be m
invidious, and, I may say, an almost impotsiV;
task to name a second, third, and so on, as, for
instance, Charles Lefebvre and Mdlle. Eu»eii
Verdier, would be eijual favourites with mjfci!;
but then they are widely different in colour, u
Mervielle de Lyon is from Louis van Houtte.

I venture to think the method I have adopt*!
of choosing one, two, three, according to colour,
will help greatly to solve the difficulty of sta¬
tion where nearly 500 varieties have to be dealt
with. I will now take each of the clause;
Hybrid Perpetuals. In the white I placed Bok-
<le Neige first, because it is the most perpeik
flowering white Rose in cultivation at present,
and, though far from being the largest, it na? psr
feet form and petals of great substance, and k
stood the test of time, and done duty bravely -
hosts of winning collections ; but for a grand
white Rose commend me to Mcrveille de Lyon
for size and l»cauty, when well grown nothin;
can equal this Rose. I had the pleasure
viewing some magnificent blooms of it k:
season in the nursery of Messrs. Jas. Dickwi
and Sons, Chester, which I shall not soon for¬
get. I hope its constitution will prove goCL.
If so, it is the grandest acquisition to the white
class we have had for many years. I pUud
Reine Blanche third on account of its large
size, pearly whiteness, being cupped, and a
every way a charming Rose. In the pale .Lus
after La France comes Mdlle. Eugenie Verdkf.
Of all Roses this is my favourite. To sec this
superb and delicately-tinted flower with ;s
ilcwdrops fringing its <s.uter petals is a sight k
the gods—to me it is a perfect piece of jcwelky.
Mdme. Gabriel Luizod was exhibited so vc-
last season as to stamp it as one of the vf .7
finest of the light class. Baroness Rothsck.
is beautiful, and possesses such a robust baht
that no amateur’s collection would be comply
without her ; whilst Marguerite de St Anas
is an old and tried favourite, of a most exquisk
soft shade of satin Rose. Coining to &
higher - coloured carmines, as a grand
useful Rose, Marquise de Castellaine cansS
be surpassed, the great blooms I saw last
season of it in the garden of tk
Rev. Lionel Garnett, Christleton Vieara^-
Cheshire, would have astonished many a pn v
fessional rose grower, but it must be reu^-g
lie red that Mr. Garnett is a champion exhibited;
Emily Laxton, which I have placed second, k*
charms distinct from most Roses ; it is of a b.kd ^
cheery, cherry colour, sparkling and bright w* J
lovely foliage, and fine, globular-pointed !
Countess of Oxford takes Victor Verdier’apk*
as a vivid carmine, and possesses a grand co&j
stitution, and i 3 good alike for growing in
or in the open garden. Countess of RosebiiJ
is fine, and a very free bloomer, but is y oaB tf
I have added yet another Rose in this coIogJ
viz., Magna Charta. I do this solely on accou»
of its foliage, which, without doubt, is the fins*
possessed by auy Rose in cultivation. Madaic#
Bollo and Madame C. Crapelet also are g*'j
for this purpose. Now for the higher-colour
crimsons. I do feel some hesitation in pk-’- n j
Charles Lefebvre before good old 0ener4
Jacqueminot, but fine form must take pre¬
cedence. A nobler specimen of Old Engh- ’ j
emblem I never saw than in a bloom of this
old Rose in the buttonhole of a Liverpool mere -* 2 I
on his way to town one June morning, a mas' : ’V
rich, dark crimson flower, richly suffused
velvety shading, and foliage 03 perfect as cou,i "
wishea. How r strange, it seems to me, tin-
little >»as been said of late about this Rtp'O. ^
why 1 I cannot tell. Its constitution U "• >»j
robust, and I still think it the greatest amOJ®
all dark Roses. Next comes an old favourit*|
dear to all true lovers of Roses, General Ja^ur 1
minot, constant, beautiful, and rich
colouring, truly perpetual, excellent
hardy in: constitution, exquisite in the bud J
half expanded, a fine fqrcer, andjthe best <*

©fcvrkLI lYffloSow [aescriw «

Attj ffi hat ^ ose

Mat 24, 1884.]

gardening illustrated

127

eeter perfume ? If your garden only con¬
ned three Roses let this be one. Mrs. Jowett
iuld be in every stand of 24 ; of Louis van
mttc, and Prince Camille de Rohan, I scarce
ow which to give the preference to ; perhaps
uia has the finest dowers, but the Prince is
3 most profuse bloomer, aud, 1 think, possesses
- strongest constitution; but good ola Horace
ruey produced the finest single flower I saw
a glass on a drawing-room mantelpiece last
ison. And, lastly, I come to review that class
lich gives us the true emblem of England, a
ight, bold red Rose. I have placed Mane Beau-
in first because she is, when well-grown, one of
e ino6t—yes, perhaps, the most perfect Rose
cultivation, hence prizes are often given for
•- best 12 blooms of this Rose, and a grand
rht they are, interspersed with good foliage,
id the perfume is delicately sweet. I anticipate
i enthusiastic Rosarian reading this would ex-
aim, “ Is Marie Beaiunan aredRose?” Ascom-
iretl with A. K. Williams, or Marie Rady,
rtainly not. But in what other class could it

• placed ? She is neither crimson nor carmine,
id it would not do to omit her from the first

* among H. P.’s. Again, I have placed A. K.
illiams before Marie Rady in this class,

hereas really Marie Rady is the true red Rose,
id a grand one too; but A. K. Williams is a
iperb Rose and shows up well with its own
liage, and this is a great point of vantage. Of
ic two, I think Marie Rady has the finest con-
itution, and growB fine on the Manetti; aud
st, hut certainly not least, among these comes
If red ('olomb; this grand Rose is similar in
dour to Marie Beauman. It must be a general
.vourite with amateurs, judging from the large
uarter devoted to its growth in most of the
Lrge nurseries around here. It is a brilliant
lose, Urge, fine in the bud, and has a grand
>ustitution, second only to Glorie de Dijon in
m respect. I am sorry to omit from this 24
le tuines of Dr. Andry, Piere Notting, and
ood old John Hopper (the English
eedling); but how difficult it would
e to include all our especial favourites even in
72 collection. So this notice must suffice.
»ee<l I say that if an amateur possesses six of
ach of the kinds noticed in this list, and grows
hern well on a strong, rich loam, with a top-
resaing of manure just as the buds are swelling
a spring, lie need not fear entering the lists for
he best six, or even twelve, in those classes in
i hich amateurs are allowed to compete in any
•art of the United Kingdom. I have only
ouched on one new Rose in the above remarks,
t is a divergence that I did not intend to make ;
•ut look out for Merveille de Lyon, for I feel
«jnfident her appearance will please you. I will
r»ake a very short selection from the other minor
losses next week.— William Phillips, tloole ,
biter.

— In Gardening, 10th inst., W. Taylor
sys he cannot find Princess of Wales mentioned
n lour catalogues. If he will get William
raul 8, Waltham Cross, he will find it men-
“ * H. P. brought out by this firm in
m> 4. Description :—“ Vivid crimson, cupped
ver ^ ^ ou ble» free, hardy, and of good
In the same catalogue Marshal Ttfiel
“ a Tea Rose, not a Noisette.—H. T.

HOUSE & WINDOW GAUD ENIN G.

FILLING FLOWER VASES.

The subjoined illustration may perhaps afford a
hint or two as regards the arrangement of cut
flowers aud foliage in vases, work that is often
done in a tasteless aud unskilful manner. The
stately majolica vase represented in the annexed
woodcut is filled with a variety of flowers and
foliage, arranger) in what may bo termed a free
aud easy style, the very opposite of the mono¬
tonous, insipid arrangements with which one
often meets. As may be Been by our illustration
free use is made of Fern fronds and other elegant
foliage for intermingling with the flowers, and
each is so placed as to be seen to the best ad¬
vantage, not huddled together in a meaningless
way. Sprays of slender trailing plants, such as

throughout the year, making it a capital subject
for cutting from to mix with flowers iu large
vases. There is much to learn, speaking gene¬
rally, with regard to vase embellishment, but the
practical hints given from time to time in the
Gardening cannot, we think, fail to work good
in course of time.

A CHEAP FERNERY.

In “W. B.V article in Gardening on u Grow¬
ing Ferns in a Ct»ol Greenhouse " is a good deal
of information of the right sort to those who
want to make use of an awkward corner of
ground, or who may have a glass structure
much shaded by buildings or built where there
is but little suushiue, and where most flowering
plants arc not a success. Doubtless there are
Is of readers of Gardening, though, who

VEGETABLES.

Vase of Flowers tastefully arranged.

. Celery Cankered. -A liberal por¬
tion of cow manure (decayed), leaf mould, and
mixed with the compost will cause the
, er 7 grow freely without canker. Our
plan u to sow the seeds iu the first place in a
°°tnpo$tof four parts loam, one of leaf mould,
40,1 ^ of manure, with, say, half-a-peck of
*** each barrow load. We sift this through
i half inch sieve for the seed bed. Two or
■ '^tadies of it is spread over the ground in
y«ich to prick out the plants ; and, again, to
p aot out the Celery in the trenches, it requires
4 'tepth of about 0 inches for this. This may
a good deal of trouble, but it is better
*' ukc wmc pains to do work of this kind
-“t- thau it is to plant the Celery out in un-
“itaUe soil, and thus court a failure.—J. D. E.

‘‘’ ^-Hlanchlnfir Lettuces.— Cos Lettuces, to
.blanched, should be tied round, about three p«
N no * * le them tightly or they 1

C. Cowley.

jr usual

s&,‘,

do thl<* is
- — r „ strip of m
lima to cut them. —J. D.

Ficus repens and Saxifraga sarmentosa, it may might wish to do as “ W. B.” has done, but
be observed, fall gracefully over the sides of the cannot because the finances won’t run to it, or
vase, and there are hosts of other plants equally who are in close quarters in large towns, where
well suited for such a purpose. For instance, space is limited, or who have a desire to grow
the common Ivy in certain stages has extremely Ferns but caunot, sixiply because they do not
beautifully tinted foliage, aud is all that can be know how to do it cheaply, or try it against
desired as regards elegant growth. This, with hope of success in the windows of living rooms,
other hardy trailers, is useful for winter decora-1 where, possibly, gas is burnt, or where the
tion. Another elegant plant from which to cut usual temperature is hot and dry. To such, I
long leafy sprays is Myrsipliyllum asparagoides, say, adopt the following plan, not by any
' a slender twining plant that thrives admiribly means an original one, yet by no means half so
j in a cool greenhouse ; in fact it is almost hardy, common aud general as it ought to be. I refer
A companion plant to this aud one that thrives to that known as
well in its company is the German Ivy (Mikania

scandens), the elegant shoots of which look well Outside Wardian Casks.

in vases. These are a few plants not so often Such can be made cheaply euougli to suit the
used in vases as they might do. Another hardy most shallow of pockets and the narrowest of
plant that should always be grown in a garden purses, and yet afforcL ouiUes*. pleasure and
for cutting from is the Alexandrian Laurel gratification to the lover of the beautiful.
(Ruscus racemosua); it has erect stems a yard or Without Tmirf'il will Psl0 <& C £T

"more high, and is furnished with small, shining, describe such a case, ana how it was mailo aud
greeu foliage which remains on the plant stocked.

1*28

GARDEA IjYG ILL VST HAT LB

[Mat 24, 1&

house in a certain town, ami much as it suited me
for that purpose, as a dwelling-house or a place to
make beautiful by the sowing of a few (lowers, it
was, as the majority of such premises arc, decidedly
a mistake. At the back of the house, facing
almost north, about 30 feet away, was a tall,
three-storey warehouse, some 00 feet high ; at
the right was another, about 20 feet high,
which rose up immediately to the height of our
sitting-room window ; whilst to the left, about
20 feet away, was built a house as high, or
higher, than the first mentioned warehouse.
Now, at certain times of the day our window
was much overlooked by people in the ware¬
house opposite, which was not pleasant, and,
on the other hand, our outlook was not the
most picturesque, made up as it was for the
most part of paving-stones, bricks and slates,
and chimney-pots. It struck me one day that
a little ease of Ferns outside our window would
improve matters. First, they would be sure
to grow, and would be something pleasant to
look at, and it would also, in a great measure,
keep inquisitive eyes from seeing too much of
other people’s business.

Now, I objected to a lot of expense in the case,
or I could easily have taken the measurement
of the window-sash and sill and ordered one to
be made and delivered, ready to screw into its
place.

So I set to work myself to make one. My
window was about 4 feet wide and 5 feet high,
divided into two sashes, the top outer one being
fixed, and the lower one being movable up and
down. I got some strips of wood 1 inch thick
and 3 inches wide, and planed them. With these
I made the open frames, the first 4 feet long 15
inches wide tor the top, the two sides 2.J feet
high by 15 wide. These were screwed to a
bottom made the same size as the top, only in¬
stead of being open, the remains of a packing-
case were brought into requisition, and cut to
size and nailed on to the bottom, not quite close
together, so as to allow for drainage; then
the top frame was screwed to the side
ones and then glazed. I ought to have
said that the frames were rebated together,
similar to picture frames, about 8 inch deep and
4 inch wide. The squares of glass were slipped
into their places, and kept there with a few
brads. This might have been improved upon by
putting in a few strips of beading instead ; ob¬
serve the rebate side was on the outside. I then
took it, and put two stout 1.^-inch screws
through the under side of the top frame, up
into the bottom of the too window-sash. So far
I had got my top and sides. Now, I made the
front frame exactly as the other three, except
that it was made to fit just inside, and was
moveable, instead of a fixture, and fastened with
a hook. I then put a coat of white paint on the
woodwork inside, and brown on the outside.
On the bottom, in front, ju3t an inch inside, I
fixed a piece of the 3-inch stuff, same as used
for the frames, the whole length of the
case. This was to prevent the soil fall¬
ing out when the front was removed.
Now came the most tedious part of the
business to me, viz., putting on virgin cork. I
had taken care to select the pieces when I
lwught it to answer my purpose as near as
possible. With a little copper wire, rather fine,
and a small bradawl, a few fine wire nails, and
a hammer, I mauaged better than I first ex¬
pected to. I used the wire to fasten the cork
on when at all practicable, only using the nails
when obliged to. This was done as rustic-look¬
ing as possible all over the woodwork, especial
care being taken when putting it on the loose
front so that the cork did not interfere with its
working easily in and out. This part of the
business being completed the case began to look
something like shipshape.

Beforegoingatiy further, however, Isaw I must
have some support under the construction, as
it was beginning to be quite weighty enough for
the two screws, which up to now were keeping
it in its place. Of course there was the support
of some 7 inches of window sill, but this
evidently was not sufficient for the remaining
overhanging part, so I cut off two pieces of the
3-inch stud, same as the frames were made of,
und put them iu under the bottom an inch from
the front, fixing the bottom ends with stout
nails to the wall, bracket fashion.

BffftN.a tfk CaA.-^

Now came I ke p faj in Jwssilig part of the

work. The bottom of the case lieing open here
and there between the pieces of wood forming
it, I carefully covered the cracks with pot
sherds, and then an inch and a half of the same
stuff, broken smaller, mixed with small cinders
over them, then some very coarse peat ;
then came the compost for planting the
Ferns, in peat and coarse road grit, washed
free from clayey particles. This compost,
though a capital one for Ferns, is by no
means an absolute necessity, as “ \V. B.” has
most successfully proved. Still, with me it w as
easily obtainable, so 1 used it. Then 1 planted
in the case the following Ferns, keeping through¬
out the surface not level, but making undula¬
tions, as far as the limited space would allow.
First I put in one comer a small 8)>ecimen of
Adiantum Capillus- Veneris, which soon became
quite a sight, it flourished so well ; then I got
plants of each of the following, dotted as informal
as possible, viz. : Asplenium marinum, Asple-
nium viride, Asplenium Trichomanes, Allosorus
crispus, Athynum filix-feemina, Blechnum
spicant (this did not do well), Cystopteris
fragilis, Ceterach officinarum (planted as high
and dry as possible, with plenty of mortar
rubbish round it, was fairly successful), Osmunda,
regaiis (a small plant I got about a foot high, and
done well in the wettest part), Lastrea filix-mas,
Scolopendrium Kelwayii, Polypodium vulgare,
Polystiehum Lonchitis, a clump of Oak, and
ditto of Beech Fern, completed the lot, and, I
think, a fairly representative lot fora case, with
one or two exceptions, such as the Osmunda,
and these were got as small plants, and when
they outgrew their limits it was easy to take
them out and give to a friend and invest six¬
pence or a shilling in a variety which I did not
happen to have. Out of the lot I think there is
just enough evergreen varieties to make things
look pleasant throughout the winter, and under
the deciduous ones or near them I planted one
or tw’o bulbs of the common Snowdrop, so that
it w r as pleasant both summer and winter.

I kept to British varieties, aud, of course,
might have added almost indefinitely had I had
room, or I need not have confined myself to home
varieties, and have had as many varieties of
exotics, which are quite as hardy as our own. But I
think oftentimes there is a rush for the scarce
or the foreign, when for beauty our own British
varieties leave no room for competition. The
whole affair did not cost twelve shillings to
the best of my belief. I did not keep
account of the items, still I think that amount
would cover it, and it was an unlimited
source of pleasure, scarcely any trouble,
and after the first expense did not cost one
shilling a-year. Sometimes I would l>e troubled
with aphides, but a little Tobacco smoke and a
good syringing would soon settle them. To
anyone who has a window with a north or
north-easterly, or north-westerly aspect, I say
try a case on that plan. Do not bind yourself
to the dimensions I have given. If larger so
much the better ; if smaller, still I say try it,
and you will find that the beautiful forms of
nature in, perhaps, her most lovely aspect, is
not to be denied, even to the dweller of the by-
streetsand grimy parts of ourbigtowms. Perhaps I
ought to say, in conclusion, that of all times in the
year the present is about the best to start such
a fernery, or any sort of fernery. Mr. Sweet,
a few weeks ago, touched in myself a sympa¬
thetic chord when he referred to the Vandalism
that is going on in some districts by the whole¬
sale clearing away of the rarer forms of British
Fern, and 1 heartily agree with his remarks on
the subject. I myself know of a certain piece
of coast line where, a few years ago, thousands
of the beautiful A. marinum grew, and that to
a large size (10 or 12 inch fronds), where now
scarcely a plant is to be seen. Fern Lover.

Testicella (the yellow snail-slug). — The
notices of this useful little animal which have
appeared in Gardening do not tally with my
experience. It abounds with us, and I have to
exercise great care in walking round my garden
of a morning to avoid treading upon them, as
they appear to prefer the graved walks for their
early meanderings. We regard them as valu¬
able friends, for, from observation, they appear
to subsist on small worms, wood-lice, that pest
the elater (w'ire-worm), and other insects in¬
jurious to plant life; centipedes, millipedfe4
&c.—W inchmore.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK
Glasshouses.

Fuchsias. —Fuchsias struck from cutting* b
the spring aud required to bloom late in the n»
mer should again have the points of their «)*.<»
pinched out, and any flow er buds that may uu
formed pricked off; neither must they have tha
roots confined in too small pots, os this, nag
than any other cause, w ill stop theirgrowth ut
induce them to form flowers sooner tlunthi
are required. The earlier plants that are Lii
blooming should have all seed-pods picked orfa
soon as the flow’en* have dropped, (lire tita
liquid manureevery other time they are watery
but it must be in a highly diluted state, u jf
given them so strong as many plants sill
it causes the tlow'cr-buds to drop off. Afr«ai
of the syringe two or three times a week wil
keep red spider in check.

Camellias and Azaleas. —Those plants tbd
did not flower till late in the spring will no* k‘
making active grow th ; they will l>eljenefitedby
the application to the roots once a week i: i
little clear soot water, say as much soot as m‘\
be held in the hand to two gallons of wstffij
this will assist the plants in making gTwk,
will give the foliage a healthy, dark, rioafi
green colour, and will also help to banish iiy
worms that may have got into the pots. Tb*
plants that make their growth late require matt
shading than the earlier ones. The latest
flowered Azaleas should now be encouraged U
make growth by keeping the house or pit most
w ith less air than the generality of greenhow
plants require. All except the snull-leavti
varieties need little or no shade, save in the very
hottest weather, and that for a few honn in the
middle of the day. Where a house or pit can at
this time of the year be devoted to them aa<
such plants as Camellias that are making ther
growth, there is little difficulty in giving that
the treatment they require ; but where they ban
to be grown in «a greenhouse with the tud
mixed occupants they should lie placed at («
end of the house where the shading can bere,T
lated as necessary, and the syringe freely
without wetting those subjects that do not neel
it, admitting the air that is wanted at the opj»
site end to where they are arranged.

Flower Garden.

Peg down the shoots and regulate the develop¬
ment of such plants as Verbenas and Petunia,
in order to get the surface of the beds enters
as speedily as possible, when less water will k
necessary than at present. Regulate also thr
growth of climbing Roses, Honeysuckles, tk
new- and beautiful Clematises, all of which ir?
worthy of a place in every flower gar.-
Where a stock of the various kinds of
bedding plants w\as not divided, or other*-.*
increased when taken from the beds, that may
be done now-, or as soon after this time ^
possible. All these, together with the
and single Wallflowers, should have wY.‘
little attention they may require in the rewr j
garden, which is also the proper place to tfc*
during the first season, the numerous novelfeff
in the w’ay of bedding plants which w
annually introduced, and which are generally
sent out in the form of very small plant- r
May.

Lawns at this season are often much <h*
figured by Daisies, and during dry weather
when Grass does not grow very rapidly, tw
Daisy rake w-ill be found useful. Plantains an¬
other broad-leaved weeds should now be cri^
cated if possible, and this may be done by ett
ting their heads off w-ith a sharp knife, ]**
under the surface of the soil, w lien they m*)
be drawn out, and the space they occupied
soon be taken possession by the finer Grasses
which the law n should consist. Box edging*
should now l>e cut.

Roses. —Where Roses have lieen neglect* ’
unless immediate means are taken to deh v .'
the aphides now existing, and also the brood* 0
those that w’ill come successionallv into
it is futile to expect a satisfactory
bloom. In the cultivation of Roses, more tw
most plants, those who give the requisite »*ten
tion to even a moderate number realise' c
much more pleasure from the results nl toe
labour than where a greater quantity are gro*^
vet do not receive sufficient attention

UK BA IMA-CHAM PA IGN

May 24, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

129

itic&l time when the young growth is beset by
ese peste, which are inseparable from the dil¬
ution of Roses.

Fruit.

Apricots are often much infested with a small
terpillar that eats the leaves, and this, if
lowed to go unchecked, does serious harm,
lling itself up much in the same way as the
ose maggot; it is, however, easily detected,
he trees should be gone over as soon as it
ikes its appearance, and the invader crushed
ith the finger and thumb. If the fruit has not
en sufficiently thinned, at once remove more,
>t allowing a greater quantity to remain than
e trees can support and mature thoroughly,
hcrwise the produce will be small and com-
^ralively flavourless. See that no trace of
abides have been left on
Peaches and Nectarines, or they will still
'read and inflict serious damage. As regards
aiming, the remarks made respecting Apricots
iply to these trees also. Let the strength of
ch individual tree be taken into consideration,
.eh as are strong and vigorous being naturally
»le to support a greater weight of fruit than
hers in a weaker condition, although the latter
•ncrally set the greatest quantity. Over-crop-
ug not only gives inferior produce, but perma-
;ntly injures the trees if continued for a few
are. Watch closely for mildew ; if it makes
i appearance on the leaves or points of the
oots it will quickly attack the fruit. As soon
a trace of it is found the affected parts must
j dusted freely with sulphur. If the weather
•mes dry and the border in which these are
■own is cropped with anything else, such, for
stance, as Strawberries or summer vegetables,
should not be forgotten that the latter
aterially assist in extracting the moisture
om the soil, and necessitate the application
more water, which must be given without
int. Before it is applied in quantity the
irface should lie stirred with a fork or
>e to the depth of 2 inches to admit of its
etting down to the roots. In dry situations,
here water has to be given, it is often necessary

• repeat this loosening process, as the soil gets
iked on the surface and causes the water to run

Cherries and Plums are also very subject

* caterpillars, and when they appear in numbers
iey do much harm, not only disfiguring the
•aves, bnt absolutely injuring the trees. There

re no means of destroying them, except going
ver 8u °b 3,3 are affected and crushing tnem.

should always be done as soon as they are
iscovered, as the longer they are allowed to
.•main the more difficulty there is in their de¬
traction. Cherries are also subject at this time
1 year to the attacks of black fly on the young
joots. If this pest be taken in time, before
tiey have become dispersed over the trees, and
-rule confined to a few’ of the shoots, they may
wily be destroyed by dipping those that are
nected in Tobacco water. For this aphis it
**be strong, as it is much more difficult to
•ill than the green species.

Vegetables.

Tomatoes may with ail vantage lie grown
Aherever there is a small portion of wall at
loc-rtv, aa is often the case between fruit trees ;
190uth J wall is the best, but they will frequently
'ucceta on a western or eastern aspect. On the
«'° latter I should recommend the greater part
,l the shoots being continually pinched in close,
as to bring them into bearing early. In all
uses it is better to confine Tomatoes to a much
■ea number of shoots than is often done, thereby
■Qaljlmg more plants to lie grown on a given
Ifv 6 ’ thinner the shoots are kept the
^rlier they produce fruit. In warre. districts
tomatoes will frequently succeed on a sheltered
jorder fully exposed to the sun. Plant them
, sln S*y> U3i ng two or three sticks to each plant
or support, to which they must be kept regu-
5 a3 the growth advances ; otherwise,
•S\£ fra £ ile Iiature > they get broken by the
, w here they are so grown, the ground is
_'f r for taing poor, as their natural habit of
A A,t°° n | u ?hgrowth is still further increased
.r, *>il is rich. The plants should staud
1 v iu ^ rt Cac ^ wa - ’ 80 48 *° av °i ( i their shading

Sprouts should j
I *>’ no not Inquire so in uc!h roi
; but they must by

planted too closely, or they never attain the
vigorous hardy condition which alone enables
them to stand a severe winter. The nature and
condition of the soil in which they are grow T n
has much to do with the space they should
occupy. In good, well-manured land they should
he put in 2ft. 3in. apart each way; in shallow,
poor soil they may lie placed bin. closer, both
in and betw r een the rows. Movo them, as
far as possible, with their roots entire ; and
if the weather be dry, give them a good
watering.

Salads. — Make successional sowings of
Lettuce, and at this season it is a good practice
to draw’ shallow drills 12 inches or 15 inches
apart, and to sow the seeds in the bottom ; the
plants can thus be well soaked with water when
they require it; advancing crops will be bene
fited by the application of manure w r ater.
Early crops of the Cos varieties should, as they
approach maturity, he tied up with bast, which
is of much assistance, even in kinds that are
the most disposed to turn in their leaves and
blanch naturally 7 , and, moreover, it improves
the quality. Amateurs w ho have not had much
experience in Lettuce growing are apt to tie the
ligatures too tight, which bruises the leaves
and causes them to rot. All that is required is
to draw the leaves together with the hand and
tie them sufficiently close to exclude light.
Keep the surface between advancing crops fre¬
quently stirred with the hoe ; and where the
soil is of a heavy, retentive nature, and w’as at
all wet W’lieu du^, its condition w’ill be greatly
improved by forking it over to the depth of 6
inches or 8 inches, care being taken not to dis¬
turb the roots of the growing crops. Small
salads should be sown about once a fortnight;
otherwise, the supply will be interrupted.
When the w’eather is hot and dry let such
plants, and especially Radishes, be watered, or
they will be tough and stringy.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

11496.-

blooms.

PANSIES.

-I do not think sparrows eat the
We have plenty here, but I have not
seen them at the Pansy beds, but they are very
fond of Carnations and Picotees early in the
season, when there is little green food available.
Rather would I look for the cause elsewhere ; it
is either the leather-coated grub or slugs.
These come forth at night to feed, and it is then
these nuisances should be looked for; it is
almost useless searching in the daytime, except
for slugs in rainy weather, w’hen they travel
about pretty freely. A good lantern should be
used late at night, and the plants carefully
looked over, and I am sure the cause w’ill then
lie discovered. By removing the soil round the
stem of the plant, very frequently the slug or
grub will lie found at rest during the day. A
dressing of soot between and around, but not on,
the plants will help to destroy slugs, and by
placing small heaps of fresh brew r ers* grains
about the beds many slugs can lie caught.
Most of the damage to the blooms is done
in their early stage of growth, as the slugs
feed on these delicious morsels, and it is not
until the flowers unfold that the real mischief is
discovered. Large buds are pretty safe from
slugs, but ants eat holes in the petals of these
if not watched, and the ants promptly de¬
stroyed. Look for their nest and treat them to
a kettle of boiling w’ater, or lay small unpicked
bones about the beds, to be examined now and
then for the ants feeding on the meat remaining
on them. Wire worms and millepeils are very
destructive to Pansies, but of course they
operate out of sight. When a plant droops take
it up, and almost for certain will be found the
cause—the w’ireworm ormilleped eating its way
up the stalk. These pests can be caught to some
extent by placing here and there in the bed, a
little below the surface, some pioces of freshly
cut potatoes or carrots, and into these the wdre-
worms and millepcds w’ill eat their w’ay, pre¬
ferring this food to tho Pansies. Let the pieces
lie examined from time to time, and all visitors
destroyed.

At this season it will not be out of placo to
offer a few remarks generally as to Pansies and
their treatment; and, firstly, as to the soil—let
I# be sandy, open, and light. Take, say, tw’o
“(Lparts of old turf (carefully picked over for w’ire-
r wonn, &c.), one of leaf mould and sharp sand,

and the other part very old manure—cow, if you
like ; but very old and crumbly, as Pansies can¬
not stand new and strong manure. Mix all well
together. Pansies will, how’ever, grow’ and do
w’oll in any light soil, and heavy soils can be
made suitable by mixing w’ith it road scrapings,
sand, spent hops, decayed leaves, and anything
to give the roots space to move properly. When
blooming, spread a little bone-dust, guano, and
soot mixed, all over the bed, and water freely
with rain or soft w’ater around and between the
plants. This will feed the roots, and give fine
blooms. In dry weather water often, but with
discretion, as to hour, &c., to avoid frost soon
after the operation, and stir the surface fre¬
quently with a pointed stick. This doe 3 much
good, and saves watering. All long grow th should
he pegged down to secure from damage by rough
winds. Let the lied lie in a pretty open
situation ; walls, trees,&c., “draw' 1 Pansies, and
they then do no good. For exhibition small,
sturdy, and healthy plants only are of use, with
two to four steins, and the blooms must be, of
course, sheltered from storms and hot sun.
Picked w’hen just at their best, and kept in a
cool place, blooms wdll be fit for showing even
two or three days after, and some blooms grow
and improve in water kept flat in proper Pansy
tins or boxes. Show blooms should not lie under
1 o inches in diameter, and Fauci/ blooms not
under 1^ inches in diameter. At Scotch Exhi¬
bitions tins containing Pansy Blooms of less
measurement would be disqualified.

In planting let the plant lie well in the
ground, so as to leave only the few top leaves
above the surface. This saves pegging down,
and the roots, too, are kept moist; a great con¬
sideration, as Pansies like the soil cool and
rather damp. Plant rather sloping than up¬
right—that is, lay in the plant, as it were, to
slope from head to root, as the young growth
proceeds usually from the base of tiie plant, and
it thus has an opportunity to push its way to
the daylight. Plants in beds should be from 6
to 8 indies apart—even more if space is no
object. If the beds are not yet stocked (I am
writing on May 7th) get it done at once so as
to give the plants a chance of getting well rooted
and established before the hot weather arrives.
The season, so far, has been most disappointing,
and those, like myself, who planted out early,
believing in the prospect of an early and genial
spring, have had to suffer for their folly. The
plants have been much checked by the change¬
able weather—hot sun and frosty nights, hail
storms and rough winds, in fact, everything but
soft, mild, rainy weather to give the plants a
chance of starting into growth. Plants, there¬
fore, which have not yet been disturbed from
their winter quarters, but not too much drawn
up and coddled in frames, will now be in excel¬
lent form to drop nicely into their blooming
places, and may be expected to do as w’ell, or
better, than those planted out a month or more
ago. As a rule, about the middle of April,
providing the weather is anyway suitable, is a
good time to plant out for blooming in
June and July. Never let blooms appear on
plant if not required. By picking all oft’
until, say, three weeks before a show, fine blooms
will l>e produced, and the plants kept in strong
growth. It may happen that green fly, or a red
insect, a sort of aphis or spider, will attack the
plants, especially w’hen in frames or pots. If
allowed to increase, and not destroyed forth¬
with, the plants will speedily fall off, look
sickly, and do no good. To cure this wash
thoroughly w’ith a mixture made of 3 ounces
of soft soap, thoroughly dissolved, and put to
2 gallons of soft w’ater ; in fact, a w’ash with
this mixture will do good at any time, except,
of course, when the plants are comfrig into
flower—the soft soap would then spoil the bloom
just opening.

Now, as regards the selection of sorts ! This
a somewhat difficult matter out of the
hundreds offered for sale. As with Roses, so
with Pansies, tastes differ very much—-some
prefer the old Show and Self, others the newer
Fancy varieties, many of which for colour and
size are truly grand. Much advancement has
been made during the last few years in all the
classes, but especially so is this true of the
fancies. We have to thank our Scotch friends for
most of the best additions, the Pansy seeming to be
quite at homa with them. Look what Messrs.
Downie and Laird (Edinburgh), William Paul and
Son (Paisley), MTiiteTl’irtskyb Forbes (Hawick),

130

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

tMAY 24, 1884.

Dicksons and Co. (Edinburgh), Cocker (Aber- all such will not take many days; and when advancement of knowledge.— C. W alley Ikm,
deen), Dobbio and Co. (Rothesay), Ormistonand struck the way to deal with them, instead of Edrjr Hall, Maljxt*.

Co. (Ancrum), an,1 several other firms and potting, U to have another (only gentle) hotbe.1 Rare plants for open air cultivation
amateurs have, from time to tune, sent out, and ready to which they may lx, transferred and j ( wouW ^ a t h( , lp to manVTOltn , n

how each raising is an improvement on former | pncked out m a thin layer of so 1. Ihisshoud dejiroU8 , (f v f raro ^ w
sorts. We .Southerners desire to give them all I be of a light rich description, and spread regu- h&r( , y m t| , i8 fc c( ,„ nt ,*, if tb g. f oll|ll , rolilli

praise and encouragement for what they have i larly and evenly over the dung, when the Joung infol 4 a tion through these columns from ai,v™

done, and are doing, as regards the cultivation j freshly-stnick plants may lie d.obled out in ows who , m3 bflen in t i le cu lture of thn.

and improvement of the lovely Pansy. Before ; at about 3 inches apart, and the smaller thu^s choioe 8ub j eot8 'fhe small specimens of t-s
proceeding to give a list of some of the best sorts less, by doinv which a frame w ill ho d a great legg a , min01l plant8i llsllal!v wn { out |, TmimrT .
in all the classes, X should like to say that I am number, and the growth of the stuti will be n)en jve Ht ' tk . chancc of thcir Injing ablTi

reminded by Messrs. \\ ilham l aul and Son, of rapid. lo give tho plants a goo.1 start the gtan( , ” wintcr They (lerisli. and one is lefts

Paisley, of the principal exhibitions of the frame shouldI lie kept .mite close or a few days ,i oubt where the fault lies, and whether there U
Pansy tube held in Scotland this year, when and every afternoon, when t>‘owoatlror iscear llos8ibiuty of eatablishing such plants a

1 am assured any Englishman would be heartily and bright syringed with warm water, which L . erta ' m wi i a anii aitu&tioo ,. ft™ „

doubt where the fault lies, and whether there if j
any ]>os8ibility of establishing sucli plants ar

welcomed, should he attend either to compete will keep the leaves fresh aml ju.couragc cw ar catalog i

or to visit the shows—viz., Galashiels, 14th Ju»e, roots. As soon as the plants w ill stand * ltlout . . ATT • f wo „M i efirn the

Waverley Pansy Show ; Scottish Pansy Show at flagging, a little air may be given, anda gradua &hey”sl.

Edinburgh June 20th ; and M est of Scotland increase made till, a week or so '-e o o 'eddi g amateur u Either , e ,, Ls & or

Show at Glasgow (Roses, Pinks, and Pansies), | out, the lights can be taken oJl altogether, and . . , i hone real _ *

July 23rd. The season being rather backward slipped on again for the night 1 ^ exposure j - ^ “ ade in th \ ^ jfX

the two last shows would doubtless prove a great ( will thoroughly harden the fohage an«l piepjre ft f lant is iu uired for< J G in wh L *
fronf in rw«n <inliLshiols Show slioulxl be it for tho change to the open, and when the ._,

rather too early. I plants have to be put in their summer quarters f ol j owimr "

I think tho following list includes the cream they may easily be lifted with nice balls, uai gu ® h
of all the classes, taking in the new sorts of and so planted without feeling a check. free ® oil
1833, which have been fully proved. The 1884 , Thousands of ours are annually treated in this ^ gtftte » ^
varieties, many, I believe, of great merit, have manner, and we always find them more satis- j en lie8 .
yet to be seen and judgment passed upon them, j factory than any that have been potted, besides ® n(1 ^ ac<j ^

it thrives would take the trouble of Giving u*
following particulars, viz. : — Soil: Instew <J
using such vague terms as sandy loain, heavy sod, j
free soil, moist loam, and the like, it isdesirabk
to state the geological stratum on which tia
garden lies ; or at least mention careful^!

Show Pansies. -Uanc wj* jsnaaes oi mue, ; .watering. Zinnias, Asters, and all 01 „ sou 5 n f ° l .? m >: wnet ? er c ^' i«*l

purple, mulberry, &c. : Alexander Watt, Blue , Dhl J sand, &c., but if limey, ferruginoni, or

Stone. Cyprus, Crosshill Gem, David Malcolm, t ® uch _ £. • n * A [lossessing any special characteristic; and, if

judgment passeu upon uiem. laaory 1 nan any iu a , av x«;pu 8 and ft s accurately as possible, the quails

-Dark Self* (shafi.es of blue, *7 ° f «>• soil ; not" only Whether clay‘d

Stone, Cyprus, Crosshill Gem, David Malcolm,
John Ormiston, J. P. Barbour, Lord Minto,
Mauve Queen, Ormsa, P. W. Sime, Peter Lyle,
Rev. J. Morrison, Sir Peter Coats, Sunny Park

be treated in the same way, and it U a good . iho lanfis u ' t iown ia the natural wil , rot , |
where Pelargoniums are pot-bound, to l0 » r’

Coats,' Snnny Park i “w’w "'‘t

the bails, when they should be plunged in

■ Moss around ^ . u \ ixt ^ re ^ been used.-(2), W?

Which should include any notice of climate-

Rudd Golden Circle, Corner, Jane Cutobert- ^LT^MroVjlfe *

pn».ylrAii,-%7Z^s: P CapUin Speire Janet My^uddSTtJSsitioS ^ aJ A 3> °“ the he ^succoeded in exjbfe

Lees, Jenny Grieve, Miss Jessie Foot Miss ^ {M affects ’ the li8su J e9 , and causes a din- n « Anemone alp.na and sulphur*, is infonrs
Barr Miss Ritchie, Maggie, Mrs. James Millar, . p . v. 1 r Tiao tion to the point; but he omits his locality

Mrs 'i G. Paul, Mrs. 88 Arthur, Mrs. Ritchie, (unknown to' some readers) and aspect, boa

Tickler. --Yellow Ground*: Amy D, Dalslish or q uite P cloae fora feudays^nd to shade with nnportantfor some plants. Nor should wt
G. 8. Veitch, Inspector, J. B. Dowme, J. B. r , A ti * k _ n ol y th p .tmmr point lie thought too trifling and mmute-tbt

zzie otewart. upnir, vv. ^rocKiian, . * ^ i.u Q „ uuuce i*> \>ouey i/oti, in your pap-..

- White Grounds: Captain Speirs Janet thin°and anv sudden transition May 3, oil the way he has succeeded in estabh<

way to prevent this is to keep tho plants nearly
or quite close for a few' days and to shade with

r l (unknown to some readers) and aspect, boti

. y imruarfunt fnr snma nlanXo AToe oVw-mlr) mit

important for some plants. Nor should em I
point lie thought too trifling and minute—tl^ I

turn tu oiiatiu nuu * 4. 1 *1 i i i 1 -aj.

lioblrf;rLadV n Tv^e;,%We73^'^ ' -^ ‘liin sbude so ss ^keep^if the ^ ^^^1

W^° UOCk * Sir W * C ° Uin9 ’ inured to the change. To expose'things all at

B«™?' Robert Pollock, Sir W. Collins, W. ^„d‘tothrehanger’Vo'oxfOse
Martin, \\. Rubin. once is a great mistake, as the com

Fancy Pansies (all colours).—A. MacMillan, different, and it often occurs that
B. K. Bliss, Bob Montgomery, Craigforth, ou ^. a ^ ou t or damaged immcdiatel
Catherine Agnes, Danger, Evelyn Bruce, Earl move d, that they are long in

inured to the chan7 To oxfxise things Ml at obsen-ed Alpine plants in their native^
different, ^^iTofto^occura^hat plants get Z

moved? Ut th°at ^*^7"PoubS^s «ie°i “hanly sTbj«*IU

off shoal J he a verv gradual nrocoss. l ’.' a . S™? 1 vanet y of WJ,ls and situations : to

of Beaconsfield, F. W. Leland, Goo. Wyness, Hardening off should be a very-gradual process, a variety ol soils and situations : W

Gold-digger, John Stewart, J. 13. Downie, Jane anJ at th | first Winning light! should only be ch ° lce P 1 ^. ar ? “aturaUy fastidious anil to
A. Martin, James Dobbie, J. Grieve, J. Gardner, withdrawn for an hour or two, and then only ® U W an>l it is alxiut some of these lam aan®
Lady Falmouth, L. V. Heathcote May Tate, when the weather is favourable, as though plenty ‘o obtain information. For the presen I .J
Miss Bliss, MissJ. Orkney, Miss Reeve, Mrs. 0 f air i 8 desirable, that can bo given by tilting “apie the following Spigelia manlanto.
Barrie, Mrs. Birkmyre, Mrs. Cameron, Mrs. them behind, which lets away the heated atmro thrive in the rich woods of Virpm.

E. H. Wood, Mrs. Findlay, Mrs. Forrester, aph6r e within, and breaks oft' the wind. Where “.id therefore leaf mould will probably becK
Mrs. Goodwin, Mrs. McKenzie, Mrs. Jas. there is not much glass convenience great shifts constituent of the soil; but I do not knovik
Cocker, Mrs. Jamieson, Mrs. John Stewart, have to be made, and many have to stand their £ eo ogical formation of Virginia, nor
Mrs. M. H. Miller, Mrs. MoTaggart, Mrs. p i anta out abroad, or in temporary structures, l^t is always namejl for this plant, «ij
Scott Plummer, Mrs. Taylor, Mrs. Mm. which should l>e placed in vei T sheltered posi- wootls do not generally flourish on neat al«
Stewart, Mrs. Storrie, Mrs. T. M‘Comb, Per- tions, as keen wind does quite as much harm as account says, plant in shaile unit s

there U not much glass convenience great shifts „ ‘ “'V 1

have to be made, and many have to stand their « e °!°? lcal , fo, " lutlo, ‘ «* V

VV. Cutlibcrtson, \V. .Storrie, VV

ructures l )eat a ^ wa y® named for this plunt, as rick
>red posi- VVOCK ^ s c ^° not generally flourish on peat aluac
l harm os ^ ne accomit 8a y s * “plant in a hade under *
and mav nort b wall;” another, “ sheltered on the sanuv
‘lies or so roc kwork but I have always failed

and with though the plant has sometimes survived
„ ov u., winter. Rosa, berberifolia, from north of

William Walters.

uocKer, Airs, uamieson, mrs. uuim oicwmt, have to be made, and many have to stand their e ®—\ ... ,, “

Mrs. M. H. Miller, Mrs. MoTaggart, Mrs. p i ant s out abroad, or in temporary structures, 1 ^‘t is always namejl for this plant, u nd
Scott Plummer, Mrs. Taylor, Mrs. Mm. which should lie placed in very sheltered posi- woods do not generally flourish on patt jtor
Stewart, Mrs. Storrie, Mrs. T. M‘Comb, Per- Hons, as keen wind does quite as much harm as a ^ co .y n ,, “ a ^, s / f shade uii, e '

fcction, Prizetaker, R. Dunlop, Rev. J. Graham, sU h J froat . Turf pits ara very handy, and may n .°. rth , waI1 = ""**«• ‘ sheltered on thesm

R. K. Mitchell, R. Cowan, ft. Goodwin, Ring- be a . uic kly made by cutting sods 9 ihihes or sb a ! de °. f hackwork; but I have always f«W
leader, Sir P. K. Murray, Thos. Grainger, MA wide, and piling the one on the other, and with tKou 8 h th ,® P 11 " 4 has sometimes rorrosJ .
Dickton, W. Cutlibcrtson, W. Storrie, W. these ^

B.r<on,n.Tr (n , M^illiam Mf alters. -to When^.t ^^t ou^ouses,^

-Such as Fir or Laurel branches, laid over them, “? ! n th ® ><»“ of the upper oolite,

Bedding plants. — The time has now just to break the light and sift the fresh air, a HeJ n groudng J to°a certain'poii" a))pircnti'' :i
arrived when everyone will be preparing for ^ k ®^ which the leaves will be able to bear full hea , t] * tho fe leave3 beghl ' kl sbri '. R an.i'tk
lwdding, and the hardening off and getting ready M • • * branches die away. Sterubergia lutes: 1 h» Vf

the great number of plants that are now required Single Daffodils turning double. —It tried this repeatedly in different soils i»!
in most places will be demandmg the utmost would be ungrateful not to acknowledge the situftt ions, and always failed; but if anyone d
attention, as all will have to be passed through valuable assistance I have received through whose gardeu the a f )OVe planto are 8Ucc ^fuIh
hand so as to be fit in a week or two for bring-, Gardening Illustrated in my investigation of establi8 e hed WO uld give the particulars name*,
ing out in the open. Late as it is, there are this subject. In reply to a question I sent, it woldd greatly oblige —H C
many things that may yet be struck or j which was published in the paper about six . * ®

raised and prepared quite soon enough for | weeks ago, I have received about twenty letters, Orchis mascula,maculata, and mano
planting, as nono of the more tender subjects j many of them of great interest, and as I have —Have not your correspondents confounded tii>

plants should have a few pieces of evergreen,
such as Fir or Laurel branches, laid over them,
just to break the light and sift the fresh air,

Bedding plants. — The time has now just to break the light anti silt tlie iresn air, a f ter growij
arrived when everyone will be preparing for after which the leaves will be able to bear full j ie alth, the
bodd ing, and the hardening off and getting ready exposure. S. D. branches di

the great number of plants that are now required Single Daffodils turning double. — It tried this
in most places will be demanding the utmost would be ungrateful not to acknowledge the situations i
attention, as all will have to be passed through ' valuable assistance I have received through w j 108e ca ^ d

t 1 A _ L. „ nrnnlr fnrn fV. lunniT. fl 1 tl IlLlA’TUn Tt 1 I'JTI) .'X'XZT. in m VT 1 r» WOO f i <TTO + i f\n flf ... V

d about twenty letters, Orchis mascula, macula ta, and mario
interest, and as I have —Have not your correspondents confounded th*

planting, as nono of the more tender subjects ] many of them of great interest, and as I have —Have not your correspondents contounaeaun-
are not'safe out till the first or second week in \ acknowledged all of them privately, I take this aliove? I have never found maculate in ffowvr
June, and as most of these grow very fast, when opportunity of recording my gratitude to the before the end of May, and it is never rote
under favourable conditions, good-sized plants journal. It cannot bo too widely known that coloured or purple, being a white ground vnth

may be got by that time. All that is necessary j the question is one of some importance to the lilac veinings and blotches. The rose-coloured

to get the cuttings to strike quickly is a good science of vegetable physiology and especially to Orchis which resembles it in shape is Orch:-

hrisk heat (that from a well-made dung bed the natural history of the Daffodil. It is said pyramidalis. Orchis mascula I have never wen

Wing perhaps the best at this season), as in a by botanists to l>ehighly improbable that single- able to find without spots on the leaves, wit
frame with nice sweet fermenting material flowered bulbs of the wild Daffodil (Narcissus both it and mario vary considerably to ”*’

under there ia

Verbenas, Ageratums, Lobe!©, lien

a genial moisture pseudo narcissus veras) will produce in cultiva- colour of.th^. flowers. I have named all
round,them the cut- tion double flowers of a larger variety ; and yet from “-Howerby’s English Botany,” latest
i and make there is much evidence to show that thischanfe^ tion, I fjfijpr man^J ipeo^lej, are not ftt
ernantheras, * does occur, and the more evidence there can be aware of the large number of distinct species of
iotrope, and collected on the subject the better for the 1 l@i0|^fib^ph©kl thi* j>art| of Suffolk there

tlAT 24, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

131

many varieties. There are about ton in my
grounds.—A. B. T., Ea*t Anglia.

— If “S. A. B.” will Bend to my address
like or two of the Orchis he mentions in May
issue, when in bloom, I will tell him its
rv't name, as I suspect, from his description
* not O. maculata, hut a still more uncommon
cii*s. —.1. K. Nf.vk, Campltn, (Jlotumterthirr.

!Tie Lesser Celandine.—I have beeu
ased at the notices in GARDENING
tTEO about this bright but troublesome little
Bering weed. A lady friend of mine gave
ponce for a plant of it, and it spread and
reaped so rapidly that it co3t her twice as
ny shillings to get rid of it. It abounds in
le of our southern counties and in the Isle
Wight. It is worse than worthless, except
medical purposes, and should never he
nitted into the flower garden.— WlNCHMORE.

hardiness of Niootiana afflnis.— This
me of the most interesting plants of recent
reduction. Its pure white blossoms, opening
. ards evening, and its great fragrance render-
it a general favourite ; but there is one
ut about it, and that is its comparative
'lines*, that it was scarcely to be expected
t it would possess. I cut down one of my
stock last year ; it threw out fresh foliage,
l is how a large and very bushy plant, with
nerous flower-buds. It is true that the

inches lietween the plants. An amateur friend,

I fond of seedling raising, had a bed made in one
corner over the hot water pipes in his green¬
house, this he filled with sand, and in the sand
j)ots and pans for seedlings and cuttings are
plunged. He is very successful indeed with the
raising of them. — J. I). E.

1 1505. Narcissi bulbs.— As yours do not
bloom well, it would be better to lift them and
replant in rich deep sandy soil. They will
flower better the second and third year than
they do the fifct; and may remain in the same
place for four or five years. The best time to
lift them is in .July or August, when the leaves
are quite dead. They may be transplanted at
once, as they are not improved by being left out
of the ground.—»J. i). K.

WATER LILIES.

Floating on the still water of a quiet lake
or bend of some gently flowing river, far away
from the busy town, we may reasonably hope to
meet with the fairest of our native plants, the
white Water Lily ; and under the span of some
fine glass house, as at Chatsworth or Kew, we
naturally look for examples of foreign aquatics
to he represented, amongst others, by crimson
and blue and white Nymphcpas, as luxuriant
it may be under such artificial conditions as in

Three varieties of Nymphora now flourish at
the Brereton Colliery—the first attempt having
been made with the l>cautiful hybrid raised by
Sir Joseph Paxton, by crossing N. rubra anil
N. Lotus (the Sacred Lily of the Nile), which
flowered at Chatsworth for the first time in
1851, and was named by him N. Devoniensis.
Seeds or seedlings of this were accidentally
conveyed amongst some plants of Victoria
Regia to the gardens ut Hawksyard Park,
and were supposed for some time to have
originated there in the tanks, in consequeuce
of which the splendid new Water Lily was
locally named in honour of the proprietor, who
generously gave some plants of it for trial in the
neighbouring colliery tank. It was evidently a
matter of regret to the caretaker to have to
infonn his visitors that a new name had beeu
substituted for the original. There was no need
to inquire how the venture had prospered, for
on the 18th of April, in spite of the late spell of
bitterly cold weather, with sharp night frosts,
following a remarkably mild winter, the tank
was covered not only with leaves in luxuriant
growth, but with numerous buds as well, in
every stage of development, while one expanded
crimson flower, even at that early date, served
to show what the summer bloom would be.
When, in the course of time, the crimson variety
had been fairly established, plants of a large
white kind—presumably the form of N. Lotus

The Royal Water Lily, Victoria Regia.

Bter has been a mild one, and that would
rdly have afforded a sufficient test ; but the
* morning frosts that have done so much
Jnage have left it uninjured, and it is now
>king quite green and fresh-looking. I think,
erefore, it may be considered as f lirly hardy.

11193. — Wallflowers. — Generally speak-
K they last about three or four years, lasting
in light soils than in heavy inoisture-
dding ones. The l»est way is to sow a few
*** every spring, and these will come along
i*i replace those that wear out. In any case
•an.; plants are best, yielding larger flowers,
at their best the second year, and after
at Jeoliningin quality.—J. C. B.

— You are likely to have a good show of
** next year if you allow thorn to remain,
rt they are now getting aged, and you will get
are satisfaction from your plants if you
J * a fresh lot of seeds annually. Sow the
■'beady iu April, and prick them out as they
it, until it is time to plant them, in
‘ ; **r, where they are to flower.—J. D. E.

•U88.— Raising Petuniaa from seeds.

• very easily raised in a hotbed. Sow
‘ in a light compost of loam and leaf
•- and when the plants are large enough
pricked out in pots^i^ns, or boxes,
■tent** are vigorous growing plants, jM<|
l uu> plenty of pot room. Vn«l \fJt^evSfrl
«>t*d out in the open ground, a space dOfi

tropical waters. But the last place where we
might expect to find well-grown and finely-
blooming sjiecimens of tropical Water Lilies is,
surely, in an open tank, connected with the
works of a Staffordshire colliery. It is quite
true that lx>th Indian and African water plants,
and even the grand Victoria Regia, have been
occasionally grown in out-of-door positions
during the summer, where heat from some
manufactory can be utilised to keep the water
of an ornamental tank at a high temperature—
a notable example being the pond which used to
l>e, and probably still is, heated by waste steam
in Mr. Beaufoy’s garden at South Lambeth ; but
such heated ponds are usnally to be found
in gardens where expense is no object, and
where properly trained gardeners are em¬
ployed. It is surely suggestive, then, to learn
that for a period of thirty years, under the
charge of a single caretaker, who is not a pro- !
! feased gardener, hut manager of the engine, a
tank exposed to the blackest of smoko pouring
out from the ever-reeking chimney of the
colliery works, and possessing the single
1 advantage of a continuous flow of boiling water
to keep it at an even temperature, Bhould every
summer unfailingly lie made beautiful with
such rare and richly-coloured exotics. At a
rough guess the size of the tank, which is oblong
in shape, may be some 30 feet long by 20 feet
/vyidc, with a depth of, perhaps, 30 inches ; and
Loutains, besides the Water Lilies, a large
number of gold and silver fish.

known a* N. dentata, judging by the leaf alone
1 and of a beautiful blue species with smooth
bright green leaves, which was said to be the
N. gigantea of Australian waters—were added,
and now share with equal vigour the advan¬
tages presented by the colliery tank. These
do not begin to bloom until June. The single
crimson flower was gathered, and was ere long
transferred with a leaf or two to one of the
( New Munstead bowls, a form of vase especially
adapted for the wants of those who are
within reach of Water Lilies of any kind for
j cutting during the season. But an interesting
conversation on the management of the plants
during winter was cut short by the signal which
summoned the Water Lily gardeners to the more
serioas duties connected with the pit. As far
as could be gathered, however, the tubers re¬
main in the heated water of the tank the whole
year round ; and it is seldom that they suffer
any injury from the severity of tho weather.
Due precaution is taken, nevertheless, to keep
up a stock of young plants to replace any
vacancies which may occur. N. Devoniensis
is undoubtedly one of the finest of the Water
Lilies, being more robust in constitution than
either of its parents, and continuing in bloom
from April to October, even without the shelter
of glass as in the present-qaae, while in size and
richness of colour it is equal to any. Water
Lilies are mostly the,better f4rj being planted, in
rich loam at a depth,qf SL (pet4Uuter jcst/pr.,- .It
will interest those not” already acquainted ’with

132

GARDENING ILLUSTRATEL>

[May 24, 1884

it to learn that this fact was accidentally dis¬
covered in the case of N. gigantea—the finest
of the blue species—in the early days of its in¬
troduction, by the overturning of a pot contain¬
ing some tulxjrs, which by this means found
their way to tho Ixjttom. 'flicse had a^ain and
again disappointed the cultivator by refusing to
do more than appear to start, and then dwindle
uw’ay without coming to perfection. Shortly
after the upset some small leaves floating on the
surface of the tank attracted his attention, and
prompted inquiries ; and in a short time a luxu¬
rious growth and flower proved the importance
of the discovery that to succeed with this Water
Lily the tubes must be planted below the reach
of the action of light. The water in which
these tropical Water Lilies grow requires to be
kept at a temperature of from 70 to SO decrees,
the main point, apparently, in their out-of-door
culture.

It might be supposed that a Lily-growing
mania would have taken possession oi others
within reach of similar capabilities ; but, though
there are other colliery tanks in tho immediate
neighbourhood, there are no more Lilies. This
record of their existence under unexpected cir¬
cumstances may therefore be suggestive to
some who have opportunities of the kind at
their disposal, but to whom it has never oc¬
curred to put them to practical use for the
carrying out of this interesting branch of tropi¬
cal gardening.—L. K. 1).

INDOOR PLANTS.

SEASONABLE NOTES.

Hardening off bedding plants. —Those
who havo cold frames at command will ex¬
perience but little difficulty in this matter, as
the light can be run on in bad weather, and the
plants be fully exposed on all favourable oppor¬
tunities. Gerauiums, Petunias, Verbenas, Paris
Daisies, Calceolarias, Lobelias, and all the
hardier sections, should get tho benefit of every
balmy breeze, gentle shower, and warm sun.
Leave on a chink of air at night, and if there is
danger of frost lay a mat on the glass. This
will guarantee them against injury, and will
render them very strong and sturdy. Coleus,
Iresines, Alternantheras, and other tender
subjects ought all to be in frames, as, although
they may not bo so much exposed as the pre¬
ceding, every opportunity should be taken to
accustom them to the ordinary outside atmo¬
sphere. Many place their plants under trees,
but, when such shelter is made use of, a position
where no cutting winds are to be found should
be chosen. Verbenas and Calceolarias arc
about the hardiest of summer bedders, and they
should go into their quarters quite by the end
of May, as the immunity from the disease to.
which both are liable much depends upon their
getting good root hold by the time hot weather
arrives.

Zonal Geraniums. —It is an excellent plan
to take a few cuttings at this time of year, as
by so doing one is guaranteed against losing any
good kind, which is sometimes the case when
the stock is short, and propagation is deferred
until late summer. There are many advantages
attending the insertion of Geranium cuttings in
spring, the principal of which is that a good
supply of good plants in pots are coming along
through the summer, which may be utilised for
winter or spring flowering, and which, in any
case, make fine specimens for planting out
another year. Each cutting should be inserted
in a small pot in sandy soil, and be stood in a
sunny, airy situation, giving but little water,
a sprinkling of the soil now and then being
enough, just sufficient, indeed, to keep them
from flagging. Where plants have been lifted
in autumn from the open ground it will always
be possible to take a cutting or two from each
one without diminishing its decorative value to
any appreciable extent, and if these are shifted
along as they need it, keeping them under glass
until the latter part of the summer, and then
giving them the benefit of free exposure in a
sunny place until mid-September, they will
make compact, short-jointed specimens that will
bloom well in ordinary greenhouse temperature
in winter or in early spring, according to the
kinds, and if shifted along the following year
they will forij largevhar><lsMMiie. specimens the
Cfensuing summi t. 'i Xhj £r< i n Geranium

culture is to be oontinnomtfrijutting in cuttings,

as this gives a stock of plants of varying sizes,
and suitable for all purposes.

Winter flowering plants. — Those who
are wishful of having a gay glass-house in
winter must take time by the forelock, and
think of wliat they are going to grow for that
purpose, and either propagate or purchase at
once. Spring—not late summer or autumn—is
the time to think of winter, for the early start¬
ing of the plants into growth is the only means
of enabling them to perfect themselves by the
late autumn months. Cuttings of winter¬
flowering Tropieolums should be put in at once.
Zonal Geraniums intended for winter bloom
should be selected with a view of giving them
the special treatment they need ; and those who
have not raised hucIi things as Primulas,
Cyclamens, and Cinerarias, w ill have to procure
small plants of them, as although seed sown now-
will give good plants for spring flow-ering, for
early w-inter they should now l>c coming into
small pots. It is, however, in any case too late
to sow Cyclamens, which should l>e nice bulbs,
of the size of a nut, or they will not bear in
the coming season under ordinary management.
Strong bulbs potted at once should yield plenty
of blooms at Christmas, and Primulas having
now some three or four leaves would, fairly
treated, make a show early in Deceml>cr.
Cinerarias similarly forward will in ordinary
greenhouse temperature l>egin to bloom in
February or March. At bedding out tune a
few plants of Heliotrope and Lobelia should
be kept back to grow on in pots. If they are
well attended to they will flower in November
and almost up to Christmas. The Heliotropes
should be stopped now, and then not allowing
them to bloom until September, and thus
treated they will be well set with flowers at
housing time. Lol>elias should l>e clipped over
closely about the middle of August, and then
they will be covered with bloom in early winter.
Another good plant for early winter bloom is
Cuphea platycentra (the Cigar plant), but this
may be planted out for the summer and lifted in
September, as, making a mass of fibrous roots, it
does not in the least suffer by the removal, and
it has a firmer appearance. Grown in the open
ground, Chrysanthemums must, of course, not
be forgotten ; they should at once be got into
small pots, and gradually moved to the open
air.

Treatment of plants after flowering.—
Inquiries are so often made in Gardening upon
this subject that the following hints may prove
serviceable at this season, when many plants
grown under glass will be going out of bloom.
Camellias should l>e encouraged to make an early
and free growth by syringing freely on hot days,
shading from hot sun. Azaleas should have the
seed pods picked off*, and when the young
growths are an inch long they may, where
needful, be shifted. Bulbs should be placed
in some sheltered place and watered till the
foliage decays. Cyclamens arc best under
cover, giving plenty of air, and watering only
when dry. Primulas should be kept in a sunny
airy place, giving just enough water to pre¬
vent flagging, but never wetting the foliage.
Coronillas and Cytisus should be pruned back
rather hard, kept rather dry until fresh shoots
form, and when these are 2 inches long they may
beshifted, butonly when the pots are full of roots,
otherwise a top-dressing of some concentrated
manure will suffice; indeed, it is not wise
to be too hasty in repotting; harm is often
thereby done, and vigour can nowadays be
more easily sustained than when concentrated
manurial stimulants were but little known. From
my own experience, I can safely recommend
Clay’s Fertiliser for top-dressing greenhouse
plants generally. It scein3 to part with its
strength just about as quickly as the plant can
utilise it, and is safe. Dielytras, Deutzias,
Spiraeas, Lily of the Valley, Azalea mollis,
and other hardy flowers which have been forced,
should not go into the open air until the first
week in June, otherwise they get so chilled as
to be of but little use for the following year.
There is no need to frame Deutzias, as is often
done ; let them have plenty of light and air
and plenty of water, both now and all through
the summer, and they will bloom freely from all
the old spurs. In the summer plunge the pots
in a sunny placo, and water now and then with
liquid manure.

By/lect, J. C. .

Passion-flowerfor greenhouse. -Tb
are many kinds of Passion flowers, butPaesifij
princeps is ono of the best. It grows with i
in a low, span-roofed house, the tempera tot
which is from GO degrees to 65 degrees. I;
now in an 18-inch pot in fibry loam. |

January last I cut it back within 3 feet of tj|
pot, which it requires whenever it gets ti
thick, and in less than four months it had
pletely covered the roof, which is 15 feet by
feet. It then stopped growing and began
produce Iwautiful long, drooping clusters
scarlet and white flowers, measuring from
feet to 2 feet in length. It seems to flower
almost every joint; I have counted as man;
thirty-nine clusters hanging on the plant
once. It commenced to flower with me early
April, and has continued ever since, and \>
gay it is at the present time. It is a plant 11
requires but very little attention after it ’
made its growth in the spring. I never syru
it, and yet it keeps in perfect health and qul
free from insects. It is easily propagat^
almost any piece, indeed, inserted in sandy lo
will take root, but still it is best to make
young wood into cuttings in spring, insert th
and place them in the same temperature aa ti
in which the plant is growing. We find tt
flowers of this plant valuable for table deal
tion. Passiflora edule is also a very services!
plant, not only on account of the beauty o:
flowers, but for its edible fruit.—B. C.

11500. —Genistas and Deutzias b#
Genista should have the flowering shook JQ
back to within 2 or 3 inches of their b
Some persons take a pair of box shears, and
the plants to a round head. A large portioi
the old wood of the Deutzia gracilis ought to I
cut out to allow the young wood to grow fiwl
The plants should be kept in the greenM
well exposed to light and air until they Lw
made their wood, when they may be placed oi
of doors.—J. D. E.

11492.—Camellia buds dropping -Y*
say nothing about the treatment of the phati;
whether they are placed out of doors in ik
summer, or are kept always under glass. N i*
the buds are well formed in the late autumn t
w-inter months, any sudden change will
them to drop off. For instance, if the pUa*
have been out of doors late in the auttU,
drenched with the rains, and wet with theifc^V
then are placet! in a dry, airy greenhouse.
sudden check causes the buds to drop; bill
may be prevented by syringing the plant.- J
ami thus gradually mure them to the T
atmosphere. Buds seldom drop when
Camellias are planted out, and it is possible ui
the cause may be insufficient water; they rtqa.i
a considerable supply, and the pots shoul-; *
w*ell drained. They also like a cool and rtf
over dry' atmosphere. A close warm
sphere is injurious.—J. D. E.

11481.—Watering Ferns overhead-
In reply to “ K. W. S.,” I can assurehim taj
to water Adiantums overhead is one of «
worst things he could do, and this is proWj
the reason why the young fronds die. Ttl
practice will turn the older fronds brown, a
thoroughly spoil the appearance of the wool
plant. And to water them at night is»>4
plan. They have the right temperature-!
\Ym. C. Cawley.

- Maiden-hair Ferns should never b*

any water over their leaves, as it will
them to die off at once. Whenever they i
dry, water them well at the roots, and oa
then.—C. P. C.

11433.— Bouvardias. — The cause of d
foliage turning brown is in all probability duo
deficient root action and want of substano
Bouvardias require plenty of light and air >
through the summer and autumn, and they n r
at any time like a very confined, moisture-* 4 ® \
atmosphere. When they have done bloom ,
they should be pruned back rather hard ami k
kept somewhat dry at the roots, until n* t
shoots form. When these are about an j l
length shake away all the old soil and repot t
pots just about large enough to contain then *
in loam, two parts leaf mould, one P arl ^ \
plenty of silver sand. If this is done .*• <
March they can be grown along in a warm noj,
through the sprii^g,tforteading^ I
about twice syringing freely, in hot " l> ‘ y

■BftSdiiqj iroili i&A aim,' aijinitting enough * ,

Digitized by

Gck igle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

134

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[May 24, 1884.

for showy hardy flowers, and it could be kept
gay from March to October by a judicious
selection. For example, the finest Daffodils
and other Narcissi would make the border gay
through March, April, and May. Intermingled
with these should l>e a few plants of Pa^ony,
the tender red foliage of which would contrast
charmingly with the yellow and white Narcissi.
A suecessional crop of bloom could be obtained
from blue Delphiniums and Evening Primroses,
both of which succeed admirably in London ;
and these again could be succeeded by Phloxes
Tritomas, which latter would carry the season
on to autumn, after which open-air flowers are
not looked for in London.

A glance at the plan will show how well every
plant is placed, so as to be seen to the best ad¬
vantage, and, what is important, all aro not
seen from any one point. For example, the
rouud flower-beds at the angles of the lawn are
screened by the shrubs, and in following the
patli they come into view' as a surprise. The
preponderance of deciduous trees and shrubs and
the paucity of evergreens is conspicuous, and
the selection includes things not commonly seen
in country gardens, such as the snowy Mespilus
(Amelanchier canadensis), Pyrus vestita,
Maiden hair tree (Salisburia), Scarlet Maple,
and others.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued jrom page 123. J

The Plum.

The Plum in some of its many forms makes
an excellent orchard tree, and in suitable situa¬
tions a profitable one ; but the blossoms are,
for the most part, very tender, anti the Plum
orchard must have a sheltered site. I have
referred to this matter of shelter elsewhere, and
need not go over it again here. Standard trees,
mounted on strong, tall stems, are best for
orchards ; and they may be planted in rows
from 15 to 18 feet apart, with an undergrowth
of bushes, such as Gooseberries and Red Currants.
Plant in autumn and head down the young trees
fn spring, just as the buds are swelling. The
judicious pruner will look over his orchard
trees annually, and if a branch requires to be
removed take it out at once, close up to the
stem, and rub a little coal or Stockholm tar over
the wound to keep out wet and protect it till
new bark is formed. Stone fruits are so subject
to gumming that great care should be exercised
by those entrusted with the knife, as every
wound made is a possible source of gumming
or canker of some kind. A limestone soil
suits them best; but it is not particular
as to soil, providing the land be well drained
The Plum succeeds equally well as a dwarf
standard, on stems 3 or 4 feet high. If
sheltered and the insects kept well under,
such trees are lx>th useful and handsome
anywhere. On cold springs Plum trees are
often badly infested with aphides, and this
trouble is intensified if they bore a heavy crop
the previous year, or if the trees have become
weakened from any cause. And this fact should
be kept in view when fighting with insects, as
it is often more profitable and satisfactory to
help the tree to bear its load and maintain its
strength than allow it to ljecome weakly, and
then fritter away our time and money in fruit¬
less efforts to keep down the insects brought on
by such treatment. Again, insects are easier to
deal with before they have entrenched them¬
selves in the leaves which coil around them,
enclosing them in a sheath, as it were, making
an attack upon them exceedingly difficult; in
fact, in the cose of standard orchard trees our
chief efforts should l)e directed to keeping up
the health and vigour of the trees by giving
manure water and rich top dressing when such
are needed, as a vigorous, healthy, well-
nurtured orchard tree willfight out its own battlo
with insects. To dress a large orchard of Plum
trees when badly infested with aphides would
be a troublesome business ; still, it is distressing
to sit still and do nothing. Good may result
from the following treatment, and it has the
advantage of being cheap and easily applied :—
Take 2 bushels of freshly-slacked lime, 2 of
soot, and 10 bushels of fine dry, dusty soil
(burnt earth vdWwlo well) ; mix all together
Rmraugllv, amf earltf^ki tlqfraol-flifcg, when the
Crocs are dtt"mp\i4JlWv, L siJwwVt among the

( branches with a shovel until a thick coat of dust (
' covers every leaf, and penetrates every chink and
' crevice where the insects have hidden away.

Plums on Walls.

Much that I have said of the Apricot is appli¬
cable to the Plum, for in their general charac¬
teristics they are much alike ; tne pruning, for
instance, should l>e the same in l>oth cases.
There is the same necessity for young wood to be
laid in, and to keep the spurs short, so that the
blossoms may be nearenough to derive some protec¬
tion from the wall, the making of the borders,
selection of the trees, and planting ; though, as
Apricots are more spreading in habit, they
should have a little more space. The Plum is
hardier than the Apricot, anti yet of late years
the Plum lias more often failed to bear than the
Apricot, even though the latter is so heavily
handicapped by its early flowering habit.
Plums on walls ought not to totally Fail if ac¬
corded protection, which they need as much as
tloos the Apricot and Peach. Plums often
succeed letter on north walls than elsewhere,
because in such a position the sun on a frosty
morning cannot reach them, and during
the prevalence of spring frosts protection is
needed quite os much from the early morning
sunshine as from the frost at night. In the
matter of training, the Plum, like the Apricot,
and stone fruits generally, are for the most
part trained in the fan shape. This comes most
natural, for when a maiden tree is headed back
in the nursery it is much easier, and requires
less thinking to tie the branches to the stakes
—which are ranged to form a flat surface in
the shape of a Tialf circle than any other. A
very good way to fill a wall quickly is to train
the young trees from the first as Palmettcs (for
fuller description see the article on Pears),
beginning with maidens. The horizontal pure
and simple is not so well adapted for Plums or
Apricots. Indeed, by reason of its troublesome
habit of casting off its branches, the fan is the
only shape fitted for Apricots, as no other offers
such facilities for filling up gaps. The Plum
has no such failing, and if planted from 7 to
9 feet apart, a wall on the Palmette system can
be more cjuickly covered than by any other,
and this is worth consideration. If planted
7 feet apart, the tree would have seven main
branches trained a foot apart. From these main
branches would spring others, which should bo
encouraged to renew themselves. There would
be no difficulty in laying in a certain limited
number of young shoots annually, and cutting
out a similar number of older ones. Of course!
the main branches would, in addition, bear on
spurs. This combination of artificial and
natural spurs (the former caused by pruning
and the latter springing direct from the young
branches) seems to be the best that can, under
the circumstances, be adopted to meet our
variable climate.

Protecting the Blossoms.

On east and south walls this should be done
for the purpose of not only sheltering the blos¬
soms, but also to shade them from the early
sunshine on frosty mornings. On the north

walls it is perhaps less important, but even

there shelter from cold north winds will be very
beneficial. The simplest, cheapest, and best
way of protecting Plum trees is to cover them
with fishing-nets, or such as are commonly sold
for covering fruit trees when the fishermen have
done with them. Two thicknesses will be
better than one, but one will afford a good deal
of shelter. Those who have never tried any
experiments with different coverings will be
surprised to learn what a large amount of shelter
there is in a single thickness of flimsy netting
such as I am recommending here. It breaks
the force of tho wind, and shelters from hail
and rain, and wards off the frosty air. The
nets need not remain on longer than the 10th
of May. And as everybody must have such
nets for the protection of Strawberries and
other ripe fruit in summer from birds, it is only
a question of making a further use of them for
protecting tho blossoms of the fruit trees for six
or eight weeks in spring. They need not be
put on till the blossoms begin to open. There
is no question that if rightly treated Plums will
bear every year, and though the fruit will not
keep long in its fresh state, it makes a valuable
preserve, and is but little inferior for this pur¬
pose to the Apricot.

Thinning the Fruit.

This should be done about the middle of Ju&
or l>etween that and the end of the mar.lt
cutting off with a pair of scissors all deform-:
and small fruit. It is not necessary for me t.
say here how much weight in fruit a gives v*r
space should carry, as without knowing
culars of trees and kinds grown, it would be the
merest guess work. And besides, a Greengap:
or a Golden Drop Plum, which was mul'd
w ith manure and watered with liquid mans.-*
would carry, without injur}’, a much he*vw
weight than if left unassisted to Lea: tft
burden. The giving of extra support, dnriq
times of pressure, is one of the most import
matters in connection with fruit culture, au
both this and easing the tree of a part of its fat!
is strangely neglected by the average cultiwx
The desert kinds should be thinned more tic
cooking varieties. Denny’s Victoria willcir!
very heavy crops if assisted in the way I hi''
suggested with mulch and water. No
should be given after the last swelling begin?..
that might injure the flavour.

Summer Prunino.

This may begin about the end of June, or iht
strong shoots may be pinched a little eaflkr
There is a great deal of shelter in the foliage,
and the w’inds are often cold up till the end 4
June; and, especially in cold situations, « a
better not to denude the trees of too nu
foliage till the weather has become settled. 5
the young fruit is chilled some of itm&yli
The same principles should be applied i
summer pruning Plums as in Apricots and qvjs
fruit trees, for the sources and agencies of 1
are the same in all cases. The young wp;
which it is intended to lay in should be sex¬
to the wall before the w ind breaks or inprr-|
the shoots. There is often a temptation lor--'
crowd ; but, so far as fruitfulness is concern,
it is better to have too few branches than H
many, for where the latter condition eiisU. ti
wood is frequently too weak and puny to h-J
blossom-buds. Under certain condition I
growth the summer pruning may be delayed tJ
the middle or end of July. If the trees havehj
come exhausted, for instance, from heavy .uOj
ping during previous years, more liberty but®
permitted w ith advantage ; in fact, treestl|
bear freely are not often over luxuriant IP
everything has l>een said that can be said o]
any subject there will still be scope for the
ereise of individual judgment, for 1
arise that have not been provided for. Ti£
shows how’ necessary it is for the fruit grove:
think out everything for himself, and not ace*'
anything blindly until ho has tested its trd
Many fallacies have been and are still regiri®
as facts ; but no statement which is basedak®
upon the experience of any one individual, ocfl
he has tested it by many years’ practice i
different situations, as regards soil and dinul
is of much value. If a dozen men were to re al
their experience upon any given subject, il
differences would be so great as to astonish tbl
who were not aware of the changes that 4
wrought by soil, climate, and other local coil
tions and circumstances ; and then there
be differences in the men themselves, in til

powers of observing and drawing concilia
from w’hat takes place within the field of tb
vision.

Heading Down Plum Trees.
When young trees are planted the he*
back which usually takes place should
delayed till the buds are just on the point®
starting, as when the sap is in an active con®
tion the w’ounds heal quickly. Now, as
this heading back of Plum trees, if we pk
maidens w’e shall cut back simply to get brN
to form a base. That is the object, and vkl
that is secured, either by summer pinchiiig
winter pruning, or the two combili i
there is no need for further cutting I'M 1
Let the pruner und< ratand that a sutficif«
number of shoots must break from t •'
bottom, and if the young tree is strong ai 11
vigorous, and show’s a disposition to do 11
w’ork unaided, lot Nature do it But from Ml
great majority of trees requiring this asshtal
it has come to lie a recognised principle q
culture to cut back young trees more or If
when fir»t planned. But there are cases wiitl
. from exceptional .strength, no cutting bee®,'
||ja^^evl^d uot

Mat 24, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

135

nd, this again, is 011 c of the things it is not safe
o dogmatise upon. We want to fill up the
rehard and the wall with full-headed, evenly-
alaneed trees, and to this end we must retain
ao power of heading back to cause more
resales to come away from the common centre.

The Heading Back of Old Treks
i often a decided advantage to Plum trees,
specially Damsons. W hen the tree3 are getting
n in years very frequently the foliage becomes
mall and starved in appearance, the very
rowth generally partaking of the same stunted
hameter. Every aspect of the case points to
luggish circulation, and, if left alone, the tree
illgradually dwindle and die, but if the head lie
ut back into the thick branches new growth
ill spring, which will astonish by its vigour,
'lie whole of the branches should not be cut off*
t once ; that might, in some cases, be too
rastic a measure. Take half of them out first,
ressing the wounds with the knife or a sharp
hisel or tool of some kind, and paint the cut
urtaces with tar. The following year the other
ali may be cut back.

Plums in Pot.

This is not only a most interesting way of
jltivating Plums but a most profitable one
Iso, because it makes a crop absolutely certain,
he Plum trees submit to the curtailment of
ot culture, better even than the Peach or
uy of the stone fruit. The trees should bo
■lected and potted up in autumn. Ten-inch
ots will probably be large enough to start with,
ot firmly in good loam, to which half-a-peck of
dne dust has been added to every three bushels. I
V'heu potted plunge the pots in some open
tuatiou in leaves or litter. The culture of
luma in pots seems to assume that there is, or
ion Id l>e, some building to protect the blossom
i spring. In most gardens nowadays, of any
retensions at all, there is one or more orchard
ouses. And in the spring the trees may stand
inch nearer together without injury than can
e done later, when the growth gets into full
(ring. Thus the Plum trees in pots will stand
etween the Peaches and other fruit trees in the
rchard house; and when the fruits are set, and all
anger of frost is over, a large part of them may
e plunged outside in the open air, the tops of the
ota being mulched heavily with manure.
Vatering will be necessary sometimes, especially
l dry weather. The second autumn the trees
ill be potted into 12-inch pots, and future
hifts will be given according to progress made ;
nd Plums, after they have attained to a good
ire, may be kept in excellent condition many
ears with annual top-dressing and artificial
lanure. In preparing the soil for repotting and
op-dressing, after the trees fairly settle down
o their work, it is a very good plan to mix some
f Aimes’ or Clay’s artificial fertiliser with the
oiL In the case of Aimes’, which I have been
sing lately, I find a pound of the manure to a
ushel of the turfy loam give very good results,
he use of these artificial fertilisers (and I do
tot .wish to recommend one in preference to
.oother, as probably all are in their several ways
'.ood, and plants like a change of diet sometimes,)
tfe ‘lostined, I think, to work a vast change in
mr fruit gardens. At present, when a tree
e/pures manure, it usually gets a dressing of
rard manure. This is all very well as a mulch-
ug on the surface, but admixture with the
wil tends to stop up the pores and to make it
iMty and sour, hence I think one of the greatest
Ungers in using solid manure for fruit trees,

' hiehthegrowing employment of artificials suit¬
able for special fruits will, ere long, perhaps,
‘^nder unnecessary. When we can grow our
ruitsin virgin loam, with the necessary stimulants

anee, first with Tobacco powders afterwards the
syringe and gavden engine may be brought into
requisition. The following washes may be em¬
ployed where necessary Mix 3 oz. of soft soap
in 2 gallons of warm, soft w r ater, and add 1 quart
of Tobacco liquor (the latter can lx) obtained
from any Tobacco factory at Is. per gallon);
or boil 3 oz. of quassia chips in a gallon of
w r ater, strain off the liqour, and dip the infested
shoots in it, or syringe it over the infested tree.
Gumming, though less dangerous to Plums
than to Apricots or Peaches, still in some eases
is troublesome. Some trees seem to have a pre¬
disposition for it. Whenever a branch receives
injury gum exudes, aud a disagreeable wound
is formed. The best way of treating these
places is to cut away the affected bark and
wood, and dress the parts with tar, -which will
kill all fungoid growth, and permit a new
healthy bark to form.

Dessert Plums. —Coe’s Golden Drop Green
Gage, Jefferson, Kirke’s Ickworth Imperatrice,
Transparent Gage, Grand Duke, and Guthrie’s
Late Green.

Culinary Plums .—Belle de September, Dia
mond, Early Prolific, Pond’s Seedling, Prince of
Wales, Victoria, Wincsour, White Magnum
Bonum, Washington, Damson (common and
prune). E. Hobday.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

riministered in some inodorous powder which
rill not clog up the soil, better results will be
'btfined with less difficulty and trouble.
>’imrncr management of trcea in pots will consist
nrtoppmg the young wood when 5 or 6 inches long,
thinning the fruit when too numerous, and the
hily routine work of watering and syringing ;
Spotting or top-dressing, as the case may be, in
aatnmn; sheltering the roots of the trees during
rinterwith litter, housing them in February,
tad usually thinning them out by removing a
l*rt of them to the open air in May.

Insects, Diseases, &c.

^ry little will suffice undei^this headinj
^phideo are the most troublesome, ,a%d n
‘Kicked the moment they i \ikd ihJh aj

(miscellaneous.)

11391. —Catching: grubs. —In reply to “ An
Anxious Enquirer,” I should say that the grub
he has found in his garden is very destructive
to Pinks, Antirrhinums, &c. I have tried many
ways of catching them, but have never
succeeded well until a few days ago, when I
found a pot saucer that had got pressed into
the ground full of water, and at the bottom of
the saucer in the water I found seven grubs. I
thought I would try and catch some by putting
saucers about one yard apart, pressing them
into the ground, and then filling them with
water. I was surprised next morning to find
from seven to twenty grubs in each saucer.
The grubs were m early all alive, but could not
get out of the saucer. If “ An Anxious
Enquirer” will try the above I have little doubt
ho will succeed iu catching large numbers. The
grub can easily be destroyed by putting them
into boiling water. Hoping the above will be
of some use to many readers. —Bowes Park.

11 JOG.— Spiraeas not flowering. — A
healthy plant that has not flowered would not be
improved by being placed in a room. These plants
are brought up to the flowering stage by being
planted in a rich piece of ground, and carefully
cultivated. After they have flowered well out
of doors they will do so if potted and placed in
a room or greenhouse. A good time to divide
Dielytra roots is immediately before they start
into growth in the spring.—^J. D. E.

11496.—Pansies eaten off.— About ten
days ago I had a number of Pansy blooms, but
most of them had been eaten away at the sides.
Upon looking at them carefully, I found some
dozens of small red insects and a few green flies.
Next day I got a middle-sized camel’s hair brush,
and painted the plants well with strong Tobacco
water, especially the young buds and small
leaves. Since then the plants have bloomed
well, and none of the flowers have been eaten.
“Churchyard” should try the above.— Bowes
Park.

11602.— Nicotiana afflnis. -I procured a packet of
seed Nicotiana last autumn, and sowed it in a large shallow
seed pan. The plants soon came up ; I parted them threo
in a pot, and now they are in full bloom—white Petunia-
opening in the evening and Bccnting the

H. Roots .—At any large seed shop.- Mignonette. —

Messrs. Vcitch and Sons. Royal Exotic Nursery Kind’s

Road, Chelsea.- A. E. K.—A freak of nature verv com-

moti in the Rose. Wc cannot stato tho cause.—— Jus
Patterson —“ The English Flower Garden,” by Win!
Robinson, is the best book you can havo on the subject.
Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, London.

- His cock '—Some flower seeds will retain their

A course, the
}.- A. Lull.

. o . , ,-only bo done

by a Specialist, who has the means of comparison at hand.
~T~L.B. Todmorden .—The Vino must linvc got scorched
through a sudden burst of sunshine whilst tho house was

closed and the foliage damp.- Robert Kerr .—It is very

common for the Polyanthus to produce faseiated stems as
in the case of tho specimen sent. Two stems and head of

flower unite when in a young state.- M. L. T.—“ Town

Gardening,” by B. S. Ravenscroft, published bv George

Routledge and Sons.- Charles Kershaw. —‘it is not

necessary to wash off the Tobacco water from the plants
only for the purpose of cleansing them of the stain which
the Tobacco is likely to leave on them, and also the dead
insects.

Names of Plants.— R. Barton .—Wc do not name
varieties of the Rose. It can only he done by a Specialist

who has the means of comparison.- S. Loder.—\Xo

cannot name varieties of the Polyanthus.- J. Mitchell —

Primus PodiLs (Bird Cherrv). - D. M .— Saxifraga

granulatafl. pi.- II. Rupell .—Your Tulip seems to be the

original Tulipa Gexneriana.- Fanny Fern. -Nephrolcpis

cxaltata.- Mrs. J. //.—Pedicularis svlvatica .—Old

iriiulsor. —Druba vernu, Whitlow Grass.- ir. D.—

Choisya temata (a Mexican shrub).-j. S. —1, Cattleva

Skinner! ; 2, Clerodendron Balfouri ; 8, Bogbean Menv-

anthes trifoliata.- G. IP.—1, Iris germnnica; 2, A kind

of Poppy the flowers had dropped ; 3, Narcissus poeticus

recurvus ; 4, Double Poet narcissus.->f. VilUas.—l,

Athyrium filix-fcBinina; 2, Aspidium can otideum • 3
Aspidium caryotideum ; 4, Adiantum hispiduui.

like flowers- . . . ..^

greenhouso. 1 found no trouble in raising them.—Mio-
XOXETTK.

11608.— Plants failing in conservatory.— I think
the cause of “A. J. E.’s” failure lies in the roof being
glazed with the thick blue tube glass. I remember sooing a
frame whioh had been glazed with a thick tube gloss, and
the result was that when tho sun began to gain power tho
occupants wore scorched up completely.—W m. C. Cowley.

11491.— New tennis lawn.— If the relaving of this
was well done in February it ought to be ready to play
upon now. The Grass will be well established by this
tune.—J. D. E.

11512.-Eucalyptus.-Theso are obtained from seed,
which comes up fairlv in a cool greenhouse or frame at
this time of year, it may be obtained of most large
nurserymen. Liquid manure would certainly do good to
pot bound plants.-J. C. B.

11496. -Cutting back Carnations. -It will not
Lanswer to do this. You must find time to layer them ; or,
Iff this is not possible, place some fresh soil round the
-oots, it will encourage them to flower stronger.-J. D. E.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.—.18 communications
for insertion should be clearly aiul concisely m itten on one
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required , in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the quern
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Oicing to the necessity or
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not jmsible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again.

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when good
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name varieties
oj florists flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist who
has the means qf comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to nameshould always
accompany the parcel.

Weeds on lawns.— I am much obliged to
Mr. Baker for his remarks on the use of salt for destrovin^
Daisies, Plamtuins, &c\, on lawns. I have a good deal of
Grass and am much troubled with the above-named most
self-asserting weeds. I have used soot, but not with much
success. Watson’s lawn sand is almost out of the question
bv reason of its costliness. I shall, therefore, feel much
obliged if Mr. Baker will kindly add to the information he
has already given by mentioning the quantity of salt he
would use for a given area.—J. C. H. D.

i Plants failing.— Why are my Arum Lilies so

long before flowering ? They are in a greenhouse. I have
a stove and houses of different temperature. Should the
Arums be removed? Why are my Maiden-hair Ferns
brown and small? Ought they to be shaded, and what
temperature should they have? A list of the hardiest
would oblige.— Lincuen.

11530.— Azaleas and Rhododendrons.— None of
my Azaleas in tho greenhouse are in blossom yet. I want
to know of some kinds to come in flower in January, Feb¬
ruary, and March; also Rhododendrons. How much do
they cost?— Lixchex.

11531.—Flies in vinery.— Could someone mention a
cure for bluebottle flies in a vinery ? I havo tried fumiga¬
tion with Tobacco repeatedly, and after doing so found
scores lying dead and crawling about sick on the floor •
but next day the house was buzzing with hundreds of flies
ns if it had never been smoked. I tried several flv-catcher
compounds, but without the least success. I hun°- after¬
wards a dozen or moro bottles with syrup in them nil
through the house. These trapped large quantities of
flies but without apparently diminishing their numbers in
the least, and I began at last to wonder whother thev were
not quite as much an attraction of flies to the house as a
means of destroying them. I then burned a lamp and
*andles in the house all night to tempt them to burn their
wrings, but without success. Thev seemed to be asleep at
night and all was silent in the house. Thev destroyed
entirely these last two seasons my crops of Golden Cham¬
pion Grapes. Those being finer in the skin than most
other Grapes, the flies were ablo to pierce them and thus
destroyed them completely; I got none of them. Thev
also attacked afterwards and made havoc of the black
Hamburghs that wore growing alongside. I cannot
imagine where tho flies come from. There are no dung-
heaps or other refuse near. The vincrv stands freely ex¬
posed in an airy garden, and behind it and at one end are
Grass fields, in which a few cows graze. The flies have no
difficulty In getting in, as during the heat of summer tho
doors as well as the windows have often to be open for
ventilation. Covering the windows with gauze would,
therefore, do do good. Tho house is 40 feet long, 14 feet
broad, and high proportionately. I shall bo glad to hear
of a remedy.— Vixerv. 0 [j g 11 ' ^ | ffC IT
11532.—Plants for unheated greenhouse-rl-
am about to orpet a greenhouse opening out of the dra»-
ing-room. On one sido niv neighbour has a greenhouse
already, on the mv own pant|ry. Ulat a(|-I v ant

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Mat 24, 1884.

13(5

is the roof and front. I have already growing, which need
not be moved, a Gloire de Dijon Rose and a Vine. The
position faces east, and is tolerably open. I do not pur¬
pose having any heat. The space will be about 13 feet
by 7 feet. Shall bo glad of any information as to what
plants I could grow in such a house.— South London.

11533.— Raising' Peach border.—I bavo some
Peach trees planted in a bordor under glass. I should liko
to raise the border one or, perhaps, two feet, but do not
feel inclined to disturb the trees, they having been planted
three years and are now five or six years old. Would it be
any disadvantage to them if the border was raised, leaving
the trees as they are, thereby burying the roots so much
deeper? Would it matter at what time it was done?—
S. M. P.

11534.— Plants for winter bloomingf.— Will some¬
one please advise mo what to sow now in a frame for
autumn or winter blooming in a greenhouse? Also, what
must I do with Azaleas ana Genistas after flowering, and
how can Genistas bo propagated ?— William Plummer.

11535. — Auriculae after flowering. — Having
bought several Auriculas In pots this spring which have
never gone off bloom, will someone kindly tell me how’ to
treat them? Should I separate the young shoots now, and
if so w’hnt is the best soil to put them in, and where should
they be kept till next blooming season?—U nique.

11536. — Daffodils failing.—I should like to know-
why my Daffodils never colour properly and degonerate
in the course of a year; they look so blighted and are
half-green, half-yellow. Has it to do with tho soil, or are
the bulbs inferior? My white Narcissi are very fine. I
hope someone will answer my question, as I am anxious to
have good Daffodils.— Peterhead.

11537.— Erasing writing from labels.—Will
someone kindlv tell me how to erase written names from
zinc labels ?—J. S.

11533. — Melons. —What sort of Melon is Turner’s
Golden Gem? I want to know if it is large or small. I
know itjs a green-fleshed kind. Also, what will prevent
Melons cracking, as mine did last year, on a hotbed frame ?
A list of Melons for a frame I should bo thankful for.—
Novice.

11539.—Propagating Auracarias and Thu-
jopsls.— How and when are the shrubs Auracaria im-
brfeata and Thujopsis borealis propagated ?— Eddie.

11540.— Sphagnum Moss. —Will someone tell me
if Sphagnum Moss grow’3 in Ireland, or where does it grow?
A description as to its appearanco, &c., would oblige.—
Eddie.

11541.—Varnish on hot-water pipes.—I have a
late vinery span roof. It is not quite flllea with Vines ; so
last year I planted two Peach trees at the coolest end of
the house. They grew well, making some good wood,
which ripened admirably. When I pruned the Vines 1
whitewashed the house, but, on the advice of a neighbour,
I did not whitewash the pipes, but used some black
varnish, which he informed me possessed many virtues, in
fact, too many to mention here. As ho is a professional,
and l am the merost amateur at gardening, I took his
advice. The Peach troes started beautifully, and to keep
the late frosts from them I lighted the fires. I had no
sooner done so than tho pipes gave off a most horrible
stench, which has ruined the foliage of the Peach trees.
Tho Vines were not far enough advanced to suffer. I im¬
mediately lime-washed the pipes, kept up the fires, and
left air on night and day. Tho Vines aro saved, but will
some experienced reader tell me tho best plan to follow’
with my Peach troes? There is not a leaf on either of
them. Should they be cut back? Fruit I cannot hope
for, but I should like to ripen w-ood for next year. I have
many valuable books on fruit grow-ing, but none of them
help me in this difficulty.—J. S.

11542.— Green Broccoli.— All my spring Broccoli has
flow ered green. What is the cause ?—F. M.

11543.— Amaryllis formosiS3lma.— In planting,
should the bulbs bo entirely covered, and how deep; or
should tho crow-n be exposed as in the case of Vellota
purpurea? Has any reader triod this plant (Amaryllis) in
the open ground in the suburbs of London, and with w’hat
degree of success?—H. A. M.

11544.— Grub3 in tennis lawn.—I have a largo
tennis law-n in which are a quantity of coarse weeds. In
digging up some of these I find, hidden under the leaves of
each root, several leather-coated grubs (or slugs ?). As it
is impossible to take out all the roots to get at these pests,
con anyone kindly tell me of some method of destroying
them?—S ilver Stork.

11545.—For heating: a greenhouse.— We are
building a greenhouso 30 feet oy 20 feet. 1 should be
much obliged if any of your correspondents w’ould advise
us as to a point in laying the pipes. We saw a letter about
a month ago in your Journal advising a fall from the boiler
to the escape pipe, whereas the usual plan has been a riso
to the steam pipe. We have erected two ; tho first with a
rise, the second a dead level, w’hich seems to answer very
well. Would it be wise to try tho third plan with a fall"?
The idea has been that the hottest w’ater will keep rising, in
which case the circulation is best promoted by the steam
pipe end being highest, tho water raised by heat to the end
and returning by gravitation. If some scientific and practical
correspondent would kindly give us his experience it w’ould
be a great kindness. Tho point is—should the boiler bend
or syphon bend be the summit?— Amateur.

11546.—Leather dust for plants.— Having on
hand a quantity of leather dust which has been ground off
the edges of boots and shoes (by machine) in process of
finishing, I should like to know how 1 coula make it
useful in a garden or greenhouse, and what are its proper¬
ties.—E. C.

11547.—Netting 1 for Peas.—I have a Quantity of wire
netting, 3-inch mesh. I should feel obliged if some reader
would say if this would ho suitable to use for Veitch’s
Perfection Pea, as sticks are scarce here. I should put a
wooden rod about every 4 feet to keep it in position.—

J. R.

11548.—Rhubarb dying' down.— In the beginning
of the year I took my Rhubarb up, dug a hole for each
root, ami put in it about a foot of manure, consisting of
decayed vegetable refuse, cloanings from poultry and
stable. In the bottom of each hole I placer! tne root, and

covered with soil. I/Tnfrnow, instead^
thpf. many of the leaves_a]

lea ves

e&u of nmk

making growth
'"■and some of

the stems are quite soft. I shall feel greatly obliged if
someone will please advise me what to do. I may say that
the ground is very heavy, and we are troubled with moles.
Will this cause it?—J. R.

11549.— Seedlings eaten by slug^.— 'This spring
I prepared a hotbed of horsedung and dried leaves, and
covered it with about 6 inches of sand, in which I plunged
my pots, containing seeds of Asters, Michaelmas Daisies,
Single Dahlias, &c. The seeds came up well, but the
young plants were completely eaten by slugs. I shall be
glad if any reader can tell me what to take another
season to provent a similar annoying experience.—S asdv.

11550.— Fungus In fernery.— €an any reader in¬
form me how to got rid of or stop from spreading a whlto
fungus which is behind the cork in my fernery ? Will it do
any damage to the Ferns?— Uneasy Novice.

11551.— Rosebuds rotting.— I have a cool green¬
houso, and in it a climbing Oloiro de Dijon and also a
Marshal Niel Roso. On both trees numbers of tho buds
rot. Tho stem of the Marshal Niel seems to be bursting
about 0 inches from the root. Will any reader kindly
tell mo the cause, and what I should do with them ?—
Constant Reader.

11552.—Cucumbers in cold frames.—I have a
cold frame, and would like to grow cucumbers. Will any
reader tell me the best time to plant, and after treatment?
—Constant Reader.

11553.— Ferns under bell glasses.—Having a
fancy for Ferns, and having no outdoor convenience, I
purchased two earthomvare Fern cases with tho usual bell
glass covers. I then got six Ferns—three Pteris scrrulata
and three Adinntum cuneatum, or Maiden hair. When
they arrived I lost no time in putting them into the soil,
which consisted of peat, loam, and sand, but my Ferns, I
am sorry to say, are dying away. The glass is taken off
and wiped dry every other day. If some reader would
kindly tell me whero 1 am wrong or give advice as to
treatment they would much oblige.— Fern Novice.

11554. — Repotting- Passion-flowers. — I have
three Passion-flowers in 4£-inch pots. Thoy have made
about 15 inohes of fresh growth. Should they be repotted,
or how should I treat them ?— Amateur.

11655.—Ferns for water-side.— Will somo reader
kindly inform me what varieties of hardy Ferns grow the
largest by the waterside? Also, what rapid growing
croeper is* best suited to cover a bare bank very shady ?
Also ^ive me one or two names of the best limestone Fenis.

11556.—Chickweed.—Can anyone suggest the name
of a Chickwced used for edging flower beds? There are
two kinds, one yellow and one light green. It is the green
kind I want.— Datciikt.

11557.—Treatment of Cacti.—I would be glad if
someone would kindly advise what to d* with an old
Cactus. Would it do any harm to cut it down and put
the root in a smaller pot ^ it never flowers, and has quite
a withered look.—B. B.

11558.— Oleanders.— How ought I to treat Oleanders
to make them bloom? The buds form on the plants,
which are in pots in a greenhouse, but do not open.—
M. B.

11559.— Belladonna Lilies.— I have a large bed of
Belladonna Lilies, apparently healthy bulbs, Judging by
the foliage, but they have not blossomed well for years. I
should be much obliged for advice about them.—M. B.

11560.—Common Bluebells.— Whore can bulbs of
common Bluebells be obtained ? I want some thousands.
When ought they to be planted ?— Primrose Avenue.

11561.— Cultivating Pansies.— Would any reader
kindly tell mo which is the best method of cultivating new
kinds of Pansies ?— T. Ritchie.

11562.— Heating from kitchen boiler.— I have a
cylinder (holding 60 gallons) in the kitchen, the water in
which is kept heatea by the kitchen range boiler, and I
have a J-incn supply of hot water to the back kitchen from
the top of this cylinder. W’ould any reader kindly say if
this supply could bo continued through tho wall into a
greenhouso, and circulated through iron pipes to heat the
greenhouse, returning back in a j-lnch pipe to tho bottom
of the cylinder ? If so, what sized iron pipes would be re¬
quired, and how many coils at each end to keep a heat of
not less than 40 deg. ? Size of greenhouse, 15 feet by 10
feet; aspect south.—H. M.

11563.—Mealy bug on Oleanders.— Could any
reader tell me how to treat Oleanders which are rathor
badly affected with mealy bug, also IncUarubbor plants,
whose leaves aro curling, appearing dry, although the
roots are freely watered ?—F. P.

11564.—Gloire de Diion Roses.—I should bo
much obliged to any one who would tell mo why all my
Gloire de Dijon Roses burst open underneath instead of at
the point. Tho buds seemed porfect, but they invariably
opened at tho wrong end, tho result being half a blossom
They were in pots In an ordinary greenhouse, and the
plants were strong and healthy, not pot-bound.— Daikodil.

11565.— Double Pyrethums after flowering.—
I have some of these grown in ]x>ts ; thoy have now oono
flowering ; what is the best treatment to adopt with them
during tne summer in order to make better plants of them
for next year, as I wish to keep them for pot culture ?—
Daisy.

11566.—Boiler for greenhouse.—I am about put¬
ting up two small houses in w’hich I intend growing beti¬
ding plants, ami am in a fix as to what boiler to have, as 1
shall w’ant it to work, say, from 400ft. to 500ft. of 4in*
piping. Would some one please advise mo in Gardknino
as to tho best and cheapest boilor to have, and which also
requires the least attention ?— Florist.

11567.— Fir tree oil.—Is Fir tree oil injurous to the
flowor buds of plants if it is not washed off?—C. K.

11568.— Begonia semperflorens.— I have a Begonia
semperflorens which lias lost its low’er leaves through an
accident, and should he glad to know If It was cut down now
w’ould tho cuttings grow and the old plant throw out fresh
shoots if they wero both put Into a frame, also w hat height
from tho pot should the plant be cut?—M. W.

11569.— Sea Kale for Christmas.—How can I obtain
a crop of Sea Kale at Christmas and onwards ? The leaves
on my plants remain green and strong till late in Septem¬
ber. -Charles Oldcroet.

11570.—Caterpillars on fruit tr©93.-A fe»<hw
ago, happening to look casually at one of my Gowefcar.
trees I discovered on the stem a caterpillar. Examiai^
other trees in the vicinity I found caterpillars of tlw na?
kind on all, but some Gooseberry trees in another part of
the garden w’ere free from them. About a fortnight *i#et
I had “ tanning ” put under all the Gooseberry tre&s to pre¬
sene them from tne visitation of the ordinary Gowebtrr
caterpillar. 1 had almost come to the conclusion ffutib?
intruders had been brought in the tanning, wthtyil!
happened to be travelling up the stalks of tne tree, but
this morning I found both black and red Currant tns>.
under which no tanning had been placed, similarly infested
with caterpillars which cat the leaves rapidly. Have any
of your readers had a similar visitation, and can aay^t
suggest a remedy ?—S. A. E. A.

11571.— Cookroaches. —Could any reader inform me
how to cloarahou9o infested with cockroaches? Poisoned
powders have been used without avail.—X. Y. Z.

11572.—Bulbs, corms, and tubers.— What b &
difference between a corm, bulb, and tuber, as write!
appear to mix them up?—B ulberorium.

11573.— TropEBOlum bulbosum —Wili any rode,
having the requisite experience, kindly inform me ]
are the best cultural conditions for the above rotpe,
especially soil and situation ? Further, what is the differ
ence In treatment, habit of growth, colour of bloom, &t, J
between Tropapolum bulbosum and T. spedosumVH I
Leicester Grkvillk.

BEES.

SEASONABLE NOTES.

When a hive is full of bees at this seasoc,
numbers will frequently hang out of the hive,
and cluster in a mass under the alighting *
board for os long as a fortnight or three week*
before swarming, spending the most valuable
time for honey-gathering in idleness, waiting
till the queen is ready to accompany them to
form a new colony. Where, however, addi¬
tional room can be given by supering, Ac., this
clustering can be prevented ; but, at the same
time, all desire for swarming may be put *n
end to. Again, the time at which a swarm will
have a hive is very uncertain, so that it is
necessary in the swarming season to have hives
watched, lest a swarm should leave unseen and
l>e lost.

Artificial swarming is, therefore, to be
much recommended, as thereby much valuable
time is saved the bee-keeper in watching, and the
bees in waiting for the queen to lead off the
swarm. It can be performed in a few minute*,
and at the convenience of the apiarian, in any
part of of the day. Artificial swarms can 1*
taken from straw skeps by driving, in the
following manner :—After having puffed a little
smoke into the entrance of the hive, and allow*!
the bees a minute or two to fill themselves with
honey, turn up the hive, and place over it an
empty skep, bringing the edges together at the
point toward which the combs run, at which
point push an iron skewer through the edge of
the empty skep into the one below, so forming
a hinge ; and with driving irons, or two piece*
of wood with nails in the ends, fix the empty
skep up like an open lid, then rap upon the
sides of the stock-hive gently with the open
hands, when a loud buzzing will soon be heara,
and the bees seen to be rushing up into the
empty skep. Sharp watch must De kept to w*
that the queen goes up in the crow’d, and that
sufficient bees are left in the stock-hive to rear
the brood and carry on the business. The
artificial swarm is then placed three feet or
more to the right, and the stock-hive the name
distance to the left of the old stand, that each
may receive an equal number of the bee;
returning from the fields. To make &
artificial swarm from a bur-frame h lVc
first remove the hive to a new stand, and place
a new’ hive on the old stand. Each bar ®
comb is now examined, and the one on whies
the queen is found is removed with bees a^*
queen clinging to it and placed in the new hive;
also any more frames of brood that can *
spared from the old hive. The gap thus ra**
in the parent hive is closed up by drawing tne
frames together. By placing the old stock on
a fresh stand, many of the bees return to the
old position and join the artificial swarm, ^
so strengthen the new colony, but enough wn
remain with the parent hive to carry on tne
work. A swarm may be taken from a bar
frame hive and put into a straw skep by i**
moving the comb on which the queen is fo UD ‘j
lifting thequeen gently, by placingthe thumbao<
forefinger over the roots of the wings, andpu
ting her on the floor-board just within the en¬
trance of the stntw 1 hive, then shaking t e
bees off the comb on to the board, when tne)
wilLrun into the skep.an l join the queen, t

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED,

Vol. VI.

MAY 31, 1884.

No. 273.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES.

IEN well-grown, these impart to an arran^e-
it a lightness and distinctive character which
n fronds, handsome as they are, fail to give,
reover, it ia difficult to keep up the needful
junt of cut Ferns without disfiguring the
ats ; therefore, we should grow ornamental
-sues for the purpose, thus sparing many Fern
ids. Most of the useful sorts are easily grown
n seeds. I sow them in March in the open
tier on well-prepared soil—the earlier in the
ath the better ii the weather is favourable,
lave found the kinds named below to be
ingst the most useful.

LGROST1S SEBULOSA AND PFLCHELLA come
> flower early, and are about the very lightest
t can be grown ; they are also often sown in
s, and in this manner are useful for furnish-
purposes. Briza maxima and gracillis are
» of the best of the Quaking Grasses. I find
former to be especially valuable, and to
mge well with Water Lilies and similar
iecta. This sort is also one of the best for
ting and drying for later use. If cut while
deep green tint is in it, it retains its colour
ter than if left till it has assumed a brownish

lAOmus OVATCS (the Turk’a-head Grass) is
of the most distinct kinds, as well as one
■b« best for keeping purposes if treated as
t advised in the case of the Briza. For bold
angementa in association with large flowers
s is an excellent kind. Another valuable
iss is Eragrostis elegans ; this is a later kind
m those previously named, and comes in use-
for cut purposes up to the time when the
*ly frosts spoil its colour. It is a somewhat
onger sort than the others; when well
:>wn it attains a height of from 2 feet to 2&
; t. It should therefore be allowed more room
in others in which to develop itself.

The following sorts are all useful and distinct,
-i Anthoxanthum graoiie, Brizopymm sicu-
n, Bromus brizaformis and giganteus, Hor-
um jubatum, and Paspalum elegans. Two
w kinds have recently been brought forward,
r ., Briza spicata and Bromus patulus nanus,
th of which will doubtless prove useful.
ieae Grasses, taken collectively, are about the
st that can be annually raised from seed,
ipa pennata and elegantisaima may be increased
vlivision, perhaps, with more certain results
an from seeds. These ornamental Grasses are
valuable in their seasons and for preserving
r use afterwards—not, however, after they
ve been disfigured by drying. When those
;sed from seed are well above the soil, it will
well to thin out any kind that has come up
o thickly. This will throw more stamina
to those that are left, rendering them more
i ruble. *

FtSTUCA elatior (tall Fescue Grass) is a
dive of Britain, where it is found growing in
oifet meadows and Osier grounds. It is of
reanial duration, varying in height from
feet to 6 feet. Its leaves are nearly twice the
7 * of those of F. pratensis, from which,
f >wever, it also differs in having drooping
^nicies spreading loosely and gracefully in all
'•nations, with sharply-pointed oval and less
spikelets, and having the florets frequently
wned, and in the case of strong growing

pecimens .faintly ribbed. It is, to all appear-

Dce ’ admirably suited to a moist, clayey soil,

1 which it is well worth cultivating for its
iftamental character. F. flabellata, a fine,
trong.growing species, often forms dense tufts
^ ‘Wt to 0 feet in height. In the matter
J hagrance few, if any, can vie with our sweet
'ernal Grass (Anthoxanthum), Hierochloe
or **lis, and some of the Andropogons.

^RDENATHERrM avknacecm, or Avena ela-
: the Oat Grass), is also found wild in
^ antr y» frequently in bushy places on
^iideB and by hedges. It is of perennial
* *’»tion, and generally forms bolbe or swollen

joints, one directly above the other, from which
it throws out innumerable runners, which assist
greatly its capability of standing much drought.
It grows about 3 feet in height. The flowers,
which are produced about the end of June, are
very pretty and conspicuous from a distance.
It forms long spikes of fine feathery' appear¬
ance, and should be on every lawn, either
isolated or in company with the above.

Bromfs inermis is a native of Germany
and the south of Europe generally. It ia one
of the few Brome Grasses that can be used with
advantage for ornamental purposes. It grows
from 2 feet to 3 feet high and bears erect
panicles, wide spreading and slightly drooping,
and furnished with nearly beardless imbricated
florets. The leaves are long, narrow, and smooth
to the touch. It is a perennial, and flowers
from June to August. It should be grown in

Tufty Hair Grass (Aira cicspitnsa).

wet places near the margins of lakes or
swamps.

Aira campitosa (Tufty Hair Grass).—This
(the subject of our illustration) is also a native
of our shores ; it is perennial and flowers pro¬
fusely in June and July. It grows from 3 feet
to 4 feet in height ; the leaves are very narrow
and rough at the edges. The panicles are large,
much branched, and of a silvery'grey colour;
the florets have long hairs at the base, which
give them quite a unique appearance. There is
also a viviparous variety of it in which the awn
is inserted above the middle of the valve, and
another having small panicles of pretty purple
florets ; both are very interesting and should find
a place in every pleasure garden or lawn, both
on account of their peculiar and ornamental
characters. D. K.

Cinerarias. — I was not aware till this season
that Cinerarias, under certain treatment,
flowered so profusely, and so steadily, and for
such a lengtn of time. Years ago we had them
grown and tended by gardeners, but they were
tall, straggling, showy-enough-looking plants,
which were always going wrong and disappear¬
ing from the greenhouse stage, one after another.

Digitized by

Gougle

So convinced were we of their troublesomeness,

E articularly in connection with greenfly, that we
ad some difficulty in persuading ourselves to
try them again, even with personal superinten¬
dence. We did, however, try a couple of dozen,
and the result, although, no doubt, very familiar
to gardenera, quite astonished us amateurs.
We got a dozen newly pricked-out Beedlings
from a friend up country, and another dozen from
au English nurseryman. They were put into
3-inch pots, and sunk in a cold frame, and here
their early troubles commenced. Although
receiving regular and constant attention, at one
time they seemed to l>e getting too much water,
aud some rotted off ; at other times they seemed
to be getting too little, and they commenced to
flag and hang their leaves. We were told that
they were getting too much sun, and when
greenfly attacked them wo were told they were
getting too little air. They were turned out
and ranged along the shady side of the frame,
but, as they did not seem to be making much
progress, they were returned to the frame again
at the end of two weeks, and by the time
they were ready for being nut into 6-inch pots,
their number was reduced to ten, and I had
mentally resolved never to be bothered with
Cinerarias again. About the end of September
they w ere put into the greenhouse, and here a
great change took place. They had a final attack
of greenfly ; but that was soon cured by the
application of soft-soap and w'ater. On the
greenhouse floor they were very healthy and
grew well, and by the beginning of December
they were promoted to places on the stage. About
Christmas one of them came into flower. In a
w eek after it was in nearly full bloom, and what
surprised us was—and it is to this I wish to call
the attention of amateurs—that it and the others
as well, when they reached the same state
remained almost stationary, except that the
trusses slowly grew larger and fuller, for nearly
four months. They were as fresh and beautiful
at the end of that time as they were at the
beginning. The first single flow'er that opened
at Christmas was still there, and not one had
drooped or withered. There certainly was some
change, but it was scarcely perceptible until the
weather got warmer and the sun stronger, since
which they have shown symptoms o? a slow'
decay. It w-as only then, too, that the trusses
commenced to open out and separate. At first,
each truss was a continuous sheet of bloom, so
that the individual fiow'ers touched and some¬
times overlapped each other. This month they
have nearly all shot up and separated. The
greenhouse has a north-west exposure. The
whole floor is laid with cement, and the heating
apparatus is a Loughboro’ Amateur’s Boiler. A
small fire was lighted almost every night during
winter and spring, and the temperature kept as
near to 60 degrees as possible, principally with
a view to keep the house dry, as the situation is
naturally a damp one. Weak liquid manure
was administered about once a week or oftener.

—P. R.

CytlsuB racemosu8 out of doors.—
This plant is now in great beauty in gardens
on the south coast, where it flourishes in the
greatest perfection in the open air, and, pretty
as the small pot-plants are that are grown by
market cultivators, or largo pot specimens in
the conservatory, they cannot for a moment
compare with open air plants, that push out
long, strong shoots, branched from base to
summit with side-shoots, that become at this
time of year a complete mass of golden yellow
blossoms. It is surprising the amount of frost
this plant will bear when gradually inured to
open-air treatment, and dwellers by the sea
coast, in almost any part of the kingdom, may
safely plant this out as a wall plant or border
shrub. The best time of year to plant is the end
of May, as the plants make their growth and get
well hardened before winter comes on. There is
no necessity for any special mixtures of soil. As
the Cytisus, or Genista, will grow freely in any
good garden soil, and out of doors, it keeps far
healthier than under glass, as scale is very
liable to affect under-glass plants, while those in

Original from

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

188

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

[Mat 31, 1884.

open air keep perfectly clean and healthy. A
rather dry, well-drained soil appears to suit this
plant to perfection, as it checks over-luxuriance,
and the growth being short and stubby gets

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

should be assisted with manure water and kerf]
tied into shape, by which means they will com
tinue blooming for some time yet.

Heliotropes. —Some spring-struck cnttiogt ]
of these favourite plants should now be nivfofl

and t ie srowiii oemx miuii. n , . r1 . •_ v . -~ 0

well rinened and does not suffer from the effects kow succession crops of 1 rnnulas, Lineranas, Q f t b cse f aV0 urite plants should now be mw
of frost while those grown in rich soils are sure and Celosias. An early sowing of herbaceous into 0 . in or 7 .^ pota, pi imge d outside, ki
to lie cut off Iu this locality the soil is light Calceolarias should now be made on very sandy stopped, and the flowers picked off similarly

10 uu v -' uu W J . 1 f 1 cr.il mulnv a La m -frlaus 111 n. MllfUlV COflier Ollt- Al. „ --,-J f_

•md norous and we get frequent gales of w ind 8 ?il under a hand-glass in a shady corner out- t j ie pelargonium. This sweet-scented favoari
at aU seasons of the year, so that the growth side. The seed of this plant should be sown oil so managed will produce flowers, with the
made is well hardened from the first, and the the surface without any covering, but it will be ance of a little warmt h, all through the Mirra
most floriferous plants I have seen have been in necessary to keep the hand-glass well shaded till up to the end of the year,
the most exposed positions, where they get the germination takes place. Pot on a spa ' Lilies in pots will now require more water

full force of the gales that sweep in with terrific dmg plants, especially w 11 e, p , 1 the soil gets full of roots, and should be pho

forced— J. Groom, Gosport. Pelargoniums ; and a good stock of Heliotrope ^ an ^ rituation> awa ’ y from the

Border OlovesandCarnations.-These *^ d tioTeri^g. forcing Pinks that were struck waUa or tree3 ’ to * void weak “ d ^
promise to give a long season of flower, for must^io? g receive a^-heck from any cause; turn the |x>U round every two ortkr

thanks to mild weather they have continued “ft ^oddlingthem under glass a moment longer weeks to prevent the plants getting drawn to a
sending up flower spikes nearly the whole than necessary to establish them in their pots. 81 ®*

winter and I have lately cut some good blooms u*. terns.— Many of the choicest hardv kin<ia

rfTe rich Crimson Clove. Beds “about 4 feet Fuchsias intended to flower late nmstnowl>e ^ now £ in a fit condition *
wJdp with rows of nlants 18 inches apart, are shaded to keep them fiom showing » for decorative work in cool ami shady r«rts

the Pelargonium. This sweet-scented favour®
so managed will produce flowers, with the asc*i- ]
auce of a little warmth, all through the atmmnt j
up to the end of the year.

Lilies in pots will now require more wat®»
the soil gets full of roots, and should be placed
in an open situation, away from the intlaena •<
walls or trees, to avoid weak and spindly ^
growth ; turn the pots round every twoortimr!

winter, and I have lately cut some good blooms
of the rich Crimson Clove. Beds about 4 feet
wide, with rows of plants 18 inches apart, are

very convenient for gathering the blooms, and allowed to get woody, it is difficult to keep them wuservaw
I find a good bed of seedlings very handy for m free growth. Largo plants of those that may
earlyblooming, as oven the single ones are ox- soon be going out of flower sk^ advantage ov.
tremely usefuf for mixed .lower decorations.- J-* ^^ring^wh^ ‘th^lfhSS 8h ™ 1J

J. L., Hants. ... . . , strongly and flower again freely, with the assis-

Primula japonica—This beautiful hardy tonce K „ f a little U quid manure. All kinds of

Ferns. —Many of the choicest hardy kinds 4
these w ill now be in a fit condition to be as&
for decorative work in cool and shady parts 4
the conservatory, for which they are quite a

and he well syringed, when they will

• w f efl wcd adapted as exotic Boris, and have b|
►sition advantage over th® latter in being deciduous. «j
break thafc » 8 h° u ^ their fronds get damaged, to)
assis- l^ aufcs 8 U fi er l ess than th® evergreen kinds, ii
ids of whatever position they occupy, as ui
i moisture should be maintained around thro u

Flower Garden.

Staking plants.—I f not already done, tie I

Primula japonica. -This beautmu narciy ° a little liq J d manure. All kinds of . 1 ,, T ^7* S' A

Primula is nowin great beauty, and is a real ^"manent creepers in the greenhouae and con- moisture should be maintained around then*
gem amongst outdoor flowers, the foliage being £ y mus t now be kept’well watered. Any possible and anything approaching dr)Ufa *

to handsome and the richly-coloured flowers “JXsubj™ torn! spider, such as MandevilU ‘ he «x>* “ U8 ‘ be c * r8f , uUy S’”™*
lmrne on long foot stalks form very striking . ole ns will ] IC m>lc h benefited by applica- bmall plants of any of the hardy kinds
objects when seen in well-established masses. I ^ong of’Uar soot water. Keep up a succession required for specimens should be petted, o g
find this Primula, like most of its allies, do ex- Annuals such as Balsams, Cockscombs, dwarf koe P then V n “ lf

tremely well planted in the shelter of shrubs, as Aster8 Mignonette, and others. During all receive a check it is difficult to get ttsm to
an edging for Rhododendron beds or any 8tage3 ' 0 f thrir growth plenty of ventilation must £reely > especlaIly they are dwoMte

similar shrub wlicre they can remain for several aud abundance of water given. Than kmd8 ‘ ^ ^ J

yeara undisturbed, so that the crown forni a t h e 8 car l e t Salvia fulgens and the blue S. patens Flower Garden,

dense carpet, and when the beautifully serrated f ew plants are more beautiful, free-blooming, Staking plants. —If not already done, tie
foliage pushes up in spring it forms an elegant anf j 8 a tisfactory, either in pots or planted out ; planting of large-leaved sub-tropical plants cat
bordering. As a cut flower I find the rrnnula require rich soil and plenty of waiter, and now be completed, provided they have

not only effective but it lasts a long time m a » cutting off the spent flower-spikes and main- gradually hardened off. Castor-oil plants.
fresh condition. A few spikes of flowers in a ta j n j n g a re g U lar supply of young wood they Giant Hemp, and similar tall-growing kid
vase, with some of its own foliage, forms a cont i nue fii excellent flowering condition until need good strong stakes, to which they most c*
charming decoration.— J. G., Hants. late in the season. Keep firmly tied as growth proceeds, as they are rev

11516. -Fly on Pansies. -As the plants Shbubby Calceolarias in open houses or earily broken by rough winds. Tie a eoft p^
are in a frame there need be no difficulty in de- f rame and - ve them plenty of waterj but as SOO n of bast matting firmly round the stoke and to
stroying the fly, as they can easily be fumigated M fch com ° we ll into bloom remove them to the loosely round the plant, so that the stem to
with Tobacco smoke. Our plan is to dig a hole conse / vatory . Discard herbaceous Calceolarias have room to expand without; being cut or cato
partly in and partly outside of the frame. Ihc when t t J heir best, and if seed be required let when fully grown. As the dry weather naa
fumigator is placed in the hole, and a sack or ^ * aved from planta that have borne the 8 itates frequent watering of small ptota »
mat laid over the outside opening In two or finest . formed and Vest marked flowers; place they get established, surface-stirring will beta
three minutes the frame will be full of smoke them in a cool and light house> and supply them beneficial to prevent the surface becomingUa
and the fly dead. If any remain alive fumigate modorately with wat | r . Any suckers of Cine- and cracked, so as to exclude air from thereto
the following evening. When plants are infested rea dv for potting should now be removed Water effectually, so as to moisten the m

-" • . _ _ . V f • 1 L LIU 111 111 (t LUUl auu IILIUU uuuov, wuv* . * . . • , £ . i ^ 1

and the fly dead. If any remain alive fumigate modorately with wat | r . Any suckers of Cine- and cracked, so as to exclude air from the rM
the following evening. When plants are infested raria8 rea d y f or potting should now be removed Water effectually, so as to moisten the . +)
with greenfly outside, the cuttings should be from the 0 id stock, potted singly in moderately thoroughly as deep as the lowest roots, untU«^
dipped in soapy water before they are put rich M a in 2i-in. or3Tn. pots, and put fora time plants will bear sunshine without ffagjwg, ^
in.—J. D. E. in cold frame8f placed so as to face the north. afterwards keep a loose, friable surface j *

1 ea^d E SLVe^^ia°Uw\oT«t h into 80 p m ot 8 ? wiU ^ Zt£

which you name. Buck a George Fourth, proportionate to the required size of the plants— **• . , . ,

Bullock's Lancer, Burnard’s Formosa, and some be Buffici ently large for general deco- Spring flowering plants. -Look vAt

others were grown and exhibited some fifty rat i ve purposes: they should be accommodatedin spring-flowering plants laid in “‘“"*7
years ago, and that the same varieties are a fram e or pit, or they may be kept where they garde", for if not kept well sn PP'“.[£

grown and exhibited now, how can they be are to remain through the summer in the green- moisture, tne cuttings on tnem wm so. ^
said to deteriorate or degenerate ? We grow k ouse . propagating until the season is too far mv.

well supplied

these identical plants as strongly and well, and
the flowers of as good quality as they ever were.

Pelargoniums —Some autumn-struck cut-

moisture, the cuttings on them will not be fit Sjj
propagating until the season is too far advarew
for them to do much good. Sow seeds of Mvfr
sotis dissitiflora in a cool, shady position;

tne nowers OI as goou qutmty um mey OVCI 1 A j „• 1 t>^.i __sews iiissmiium m a uwi, omiuj --

Tliey cannot be renewed from seeds. Seedlings tings of scarlet and pink “ lum ® ® Pansies and Primroses. The young seedlij

are ^raised with the object of obtaining new now be potted for winter , ee ^ . will make good plants for mixed beds in to

varieties; and the best growers cross good Karlet) and Christine (pink) are both short- 8pring

forms of the same classes together ; that is red P wera ’f r S^ throu^^^winter with^a little Climbing plants.— Stake and mulch

grounds with red grounds, and black with black warmth f The object being to have the plants in Peas. Train Convolvulus major,

“"l 1493.—Wailflowers.—“ W. P.P.”hasbecn "dwarf, compact, thoroughly ripened condition, foT^'S talf awta \

rightly informed about his Wallflowers. W 7 hen P ota used should not be over 6 inches in gb tlv obiects of anv kind • if tied up to
tluiy have done flowering I should advise him to diameter ; ordinary loam, with a little rotten Hlooks^best, aM

pull them up, with the exception of one or two manure and sand, is the best material m which aftenvardfJ | Q w natur ally. Roses will nj

«>f the darkest sorts, that might be spared for to grow them ; press the soil quite firm in the copious Supplies of liquid manure: to

seed, and sow seed for a new stock of young manure**

L better able to withstand the severities of the P! ck off a11 flowera . " 8 “ tk ?y ar « for " 1 f d . Herbaceous plants. -Get the seed oi ’.J

coming winter than old plants. Now is the give water as required ; they will need nothing herbaceous plants sownilli good tone, by
Gmc to sow seed, and in August or September more until September, by which treatment the meana they get strong before wmter iastou
the plants should be transplanted to the place plants will be m the hard, stocky condition that struggling for existence through th« « ?
where they arc intended to bloom. They should enables them, when placed in warmth, to produce summer months, requiring
be at least 6 inches apart. -Charles Beck, flower f frcel y ln8tead of P u8hm 8 off mto than if they had attained mow *trei^“ J
fan-bent growth. in the season. Polyanthuses, j

--- Petunias struck late should also be potted, Sweet WTlliams, Aquilegias, with B ; ^

The Onion and Carrot arrub.—A very weak solu- tying them well out and stopping the shoots to similar kinds, if sown at once, will nw q
tion of carbolic acid applied with a witorin^can and rose k th bushy. Many of the double varieties by the autumn superior in quality to •

7“'lS y ' V ' Pe ’ t8 “ W - h-W,Pr W r, Doi P ;n cultivat 1 on poasess a compact habit of would be if the sowing is longer 8eferred; «'

Birds and seeds—I was advised some years ago to growth, and, from their easy culture and free, on a well-prepared piece of groun. ^ ^
procure from the brushmaker’s a bushel of waste end 9 of continuous-blooming disposition, they are very surface made quite smooth, ana co ,
bristles, and to spreotl them on the surface of the ground ll 3 e f u l f or greenhouse decoration during the lightly with finely-sifted vegetable inoui .

Ui'rny f cuvn^it ^ 0 ^"X Bummer and autumn. Earlier plants of these 8 ““ 11

pcitect BUCCC 99 .—\V. K. Tiptos, Priors Lee, Shi/,ml. Petunias that have been flowering for some time sun, so- much tpe better , but it

be at least 6 inches apart.— Charles Beck
t howbent.

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summer and autumn. Earlier plants of these situation be a little shaded ,, not

Petunias that have been flowering for some time sun, sjD-much t^ie better ; but it sno

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Iay 31, 1884.]

gardening illustrated

139

tlie plants will l>e weakened and drawn up
he too near proximity of trees.

—Vi) 10 Li.—Beds of these must have a good
>riug about once a week ; a mulching of
ju manure serves the twofold purpose of
dying nourishment and preventing evapora-
The spikes of the earliest flowering
ities will soon be appearing. Sticks
t be in readiness to place to them at once,
\ty easily sutfer injury from high winds.

iHLIas. —No time should now be lost in
ing the plants out. Of course they must
j been well inured to the atmjsphere by
g fully exposed night and day. It is the
plan in such a dry season as this to plant
hat a shallow depression is left around each
t ; any water that is supplied settles round
*tem, and it should be retained by having
ilching applied of very rotten manure.
Lm—In a week or so the first flowers
open. W ater between the rows, applying
om the rose of a watering-pot. It is quite
ssary to water round the oeds to prevent
from settling on the flowers ; and the
.ter atmosphere caused thereby promotes
thy growth.

iw.vs, if dry' weather sets in, must not be
closely cut; for if done with a machine set
5 enough to leave it as short as a carpet,
Jrasa will burn up at the root much more
kly than if lightly mown with a scythe, so
» take off the flower-heads, but leave as
h of the carpet Grass as possible. Grass
ngs should be clipped, and walks weeded
rolled down firmly.

Shrubbery.

edges or evergreen screens may now be cut
lipped, for if done early they soon make
cient growth to look fresh and green again;
if left until the wood gets hard and ripe, a
rc», rusty look is the result, as young
rths will not push until the following
og. Ivy, either on buildings or used as a
>et, will now be growing rapidly, and
t!(l be cut in pretty closely, so that it may
covered with fresh green foliage at once,
ia only when cutting is put off too long
it fails to maintain its position as the
evergreen screen or carpet that can be
Large rustic flower-baskets covered with
form pretty objects in recesses of shrub-
es, or on the lawn ; and when the Ivy gets
blished it only needs cutting frequently to j
? it b* good condition as long as may be
red. Where the planting of Hollies and
Ur tree3 are deferred, it may, with atten-
to watering and mulching, be safely done
, when the roots are active.
lvdow Gardens.— Myrtles, Indiarubber
Jta, Callas, and similar plants that have
«th and thick leaves should be gently
jged; but Pelaigoniums, Helotropes, most
la of Ferns, and such plants as have hairy
e« should be taken out-of-doors and sponged
^tonally, in order to clear them from dust
mow boxes, if well drained, allow super-
us water to pass off freely ; water may,
•eforo, be administered plentifully without
f*?ar of its st ignating about the roots. A
cl loamy soil, mixed with leaf-mould or de¬
ed manure, makes a good compost for plants
wxes.

he beauty of Calceolarias is soon over, as is
1 that of several other flowers ; therefore,

10 preparatory means must be adopted for
plying their places with fresh material, and
this purpose Pelargoniums, small plants of
lophantha, Fuchsias, Nasturtiums, Lobe-
Mignonette, Ac., should be held in readi-
1 I’Unts now in the boxes should be
ace< * to display themselves to the best
»ntage, and for this purpose if a very narrow
P w ‘ re netting be run along the top of
.box and made to lean backwards, and
*her piece bent downwards in front, and
of the shoots of the plants attached thereto,
and showy surface is obtained. Brackets
1 suspended baskets should likewise be well
with suitable plants, such as the
’ \* r . °f Adiantums, Polypodiums,
y-maiaa, Aspidiums, Athyriums, Pterises,
lv y-leaved Pelargoniums, Lobelias, Petu-
M the small-leaved dwarf-growing Ivies
ve *y pretty when used as l>asket j

*

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Fruit.

Pinch op cut off all superfluous growth from
Pears, Plums, and Cherries, and apply remedies
for the destruction and prevention of insects
and blight of all kinds. Cordons and espaliers of
Apples and Pears should now have the fruit
thiuued and the leaders tied to supports. .Straw¬
berry runners, whether intended for forcing or
planting out, should be layered as soon as the
young plants are formed. For the former pur
pose early runners are essentially necessary
that a long season may be had for the full de
velopment and ripening of the crowns, without
which it is useless to expect successful results.
Blackbirds and thrushes attack the fruit as soon
as, and sometimes before, they change colour,
and it is advisable, therefore, to protect it with
netting os soon as it begins to turn. Water
effectually when necessary.

Raspberries. —There is often a waste of
strength in the canes caused by allowing them
to produce a greater number than can be
retamed for bearing the ensuing year, and which
necessarily have to be cut away. To avoid this
and to concentrate the energies of the plants in
the production of the present season’s fruit and
the growth of next year’s bearing wood, the
young shoots that spring up from the bottom
should now be thinned to within something
near the required quantity. In the case of
young plantations that have not yet attained
their strength, two or three bearing shoots will
be enough ; those that are stronger mav have
thinning the young shoots it is not
sufficient to cut or break them off level with
the ground, for if so treated they will quickly
spring again. An ordinary planting trowel will
befoundthebestimpleraenttousefor the purpose,
removing 1 inch or 2 inches of the soil, whereby
the shoots can be taken off directly from where
they spring, in all cases retaining the strongest.
The ground among these, as well as Goose¬
berries and Currants, should be again hoed
over. If this be attended to sufficiently often,
the weeds can be effectually kept down with
comparatively little labour. Delay in this
work often causes the part of the garden
devoted to these fruits to have an untidy
appearance, and be a source from which the
seeds of weeds of a light character are carried
by the wind to the surrounding portions of
ground.

Vegetables.

Celery.— The main crop of Celery should now
be planted, choosing showery weather for this
operation should such occur within reasonable
time, as when the ground is moist and the
weather dull the roots lay hold of the new soil
more quickly than they could be induced to do
by artificial watering.

Peas and Beans. —The last sowing of Peas
may now be made where these are required as
late as they can be had ; but, unless in open
favourable situations, the produce of such late
sowings is precarious. Give them plenty of room
by sowing thinly and having the rows placed
far apart. W here Broad Beans grow strongly
when they come into flower they will bo bene¬
fit e 1 by having their tops nipped off. This has
the effect of concentrating the efforts of the
plants to form pods instead of making useless
growth.

Broccoli. — Winter and spring Broccoli
should now be planted, and if the plants have
been treated as advised some time ago, they will
now be fit for puttingout. In the case of Broccoli,
it often happens that with only a moderate frost
great quantities of it perish. Except in extremely
low, damp localities, this is more attributable to
the wav in which the crop has been treated than
to the kinds grown being tender or the situation
at fault. In order to impart to the Broccoli that
h irdy condition of growth which is indispensable
to its standing a severe winter, it should be
planted widely apart ; if planted too close it is
certain to be weak and soft, and almost sure to
succumbon the first occurrence of severe weather.

If the land on which it is to be grown is of ave¬
rage quality and fairly manured the plants should
stand 3 feet apart each way. Where ground is
limited this may seem extragavant, but it is false
economy to run the chance of losing the greater
portion of the crop through an attempt to grew
more than the space at command will permit.
On poor inferior soils, where the plants will not
attain full size, they may stand 24 feet apart.
Plant out

Savoys, Coleworts, and other winter greens
as ground becomes vacant, and by planting
them m shallow driUs, watering will be more
conveniently and effectively done than it other¬
wise would be. As a matter of course, dull,
showery weather is best for all transplanting
operations, but by waiting longer for this there
is danger of losing the best part of the growing
season ; and so when an opportunity is presented,
and the plants ready, get them out irrespective
of weather.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 135 .)

The Apricot.

The best walls for trainiug fruit trees on arc
built with bricks, and they may vary in height
from 10 feet to 14 feet, according to the size of
the garden. Hollow walls are dryer and con¬
sequently wanner than if built solid, and they
should be built of sufficient thickness and
strength to stand without pier or buttress.
Where the foundations are properly laid a
14-inch hollow wall will stand without support.
1 he best soil for Apricots is a good sound loam
of medium character as to stiffness, and where
possible should be obtained from the side of a
hill containing limestone—where possible I say
but of course in many places it is not possible!
In my notes upon the Peach 1 have referred to
the importance of lime to Btone fruits, and the
necessi y for adding it in some form where it is
deficient in the soil. Aud when Apricots or
Peaches drop at stoning time, it generally arisos
from a deficiency of lime in the border. The
question is often asked, What is the right depth for
borders ? and various answers have been given.
But on this as on most other matters concerning
gardening we must take into consideration local
circumstances, and the treatment the trees are
to receive must carry weight. For instance, if
the surface of the borders is to be digged with
the spade and cropped with vegetables, the
surface will be of no use for fruit growing, and the
roots of the trees must lie compensated by
having a greater depth given to them ; but an
extra foot in deptli will not compensate for the
loss of a foot on the surface, with the end of
the spade grinding against the roots whenever
they attempt to rise after the solar warmth they
so much need to make the wood produce plenty
of healthy blossoms. Besides, the suckers,
which are such an annoyance sometimes, are
mainly caused by the spade injuring the thick
roots by scraping off the bark in digging. In
dry, porous soils there should be a greater
depth of soil than where the drainage is less
perfect and probably the rainfall greater. But
in my own mind I have not a shadow of a doubt
that, rightly managed, borders for stone fruits,
especially the choicer kindssuchas the Peach and
the Apricot, should not exceed 2 feet in depth.

I think at the beginning it is a mistake to mike
the borders too rich. To begin with, the borders
might be made with the surface soil taken some
3 or 4 inches in depth from any arable land that
will produce good Wheat. Better, firmer wood
will be produced in such soil than where the
borders are made of chopped turf. When the
trees are filling up the wall and are bearing
fre 1/, top dr siingi with tufy loam w 11 be of
immense advantage, and will tend to keep the
roots near the surface, and the turfy loam placed
near the roots of exhausted trees will invigorate
and repair weakened health. Where the subsoil
is bad, an impervious bottom to the border,
formed of 4 inches in depth of concrete, sloping
down to a drain in front, will repay its cost.
The borders should be allowed to settle before
the trees are planted. November is the
best time to plant, and the trees should be
selocted with care, avoiding those which have
been long in the nursery, and frequently cut
back. The knife is a dangerous implement to
use freely among Apricot trees at any stage of
their existence ; and it is certain that by its use
many trees are debarred from a long and useful
life. A young tree, budded on a weakly stock,
where the action between the foster-parent and
its child is not reciprocally perfect, should not
be chosen. Stoutness and vigour of stein is
essential to longevity. Apricots are usually
budded on the Muscle, or some kind of vigorous
seedling Plum ; and as much care should be
given to the selection of the stock as is usually
given to the selection of the bu<|sj Hereditary

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

140

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

61, m

weakness is a forcible fact, and perpetuated in
plants as it is in artitnals. Hence the importance
of being careful in the selection of the young
trees, and noting the size of their stems,
as the recruiting sergeant will take stock
of the chest measurement of the recruit. For
a wall over 12 feet high, what are termed riders
(standard trees) should be planted alternately
with the dwarfs. I like to plant, first of all,
about 14 feet apart, and then, as the trees
require more space, replant. Trees 8 and 10
feet in diameter are always valuable, and it
seems to me to be a waste of space to plant
little trees at wide intervals and wait years for
them to grow, when, if they were planted
nearer to each other, half of them might be
lifted and planted elsewhere. I wonder if
anyone ever had more half-specimen trees,
nicely furnished, than he required? And a
market could always be found for them if they
were not required. The best system of training,
looking at the question from every point of view,
is the fan shape, and the main branches should
be laid in at equal distances apart, leaving space
for young wood to be equally distributed over
the tree. It is always wise to keep the
bottom of the tree in advance of the top—
i.e. t the bottom branches should be encouraged
to extend, the strength of the upward current
of sap being diverted to the sides by the centre
being kept open. It is not difficult to keep a
fail-shaped tree well balanced if one goes the
right way to work, when we master the
principle that the elevation of a shoot causes
the sap to flow more freely in that direction,
whilst depressing it checks the flow. Of course,
it may not be possible in all cases to bring
down the strong and elevate the weakly. Yet
there are but few cases of disorganisation from
loss of balance that may not be brought under
its influence and the inequality rectified.

Wiring the Walls

Is, on the whole, I think, a good practice ; it
saves time and material in the training of the
trees, the face of the wall remains intact,
and one of the customary hiding-places of
insect pests is absent, though, of course, insects
can and do lav their eggs about the tree itself,
on the axils of the buds, aud in the rough bark
as well as on the surface of the wall. I
believe, for preference, the insects select the
tree for the winter home of their dormant pro¬
geny. The wires should be placed close to the
wall, leaving space enough to get the ties be¬
hind, but no more, which need not be more than
the eighth of an inch. Complaints have arisen
as regards the use of galvanised wire for this
purpose, but, though 1 have used it in various
ways, I have never in my own practice seen
any injury arise from its use. Still, there is
no’doubt the bark of the young growth of
Peach and other fruit trees have been injured
by contact with it ; but there is no means which
I know of by which any person can say that
such and such a sample of wire will damage
young wood by an examination of its surface,
or by the application of any known test. And
yet one would think science ought to tell us
which is the spurious and which is the true,
assuming, of course, the fault lies in the wire,
which is not yet proven. Wherever the bark
of fruit or other trees is damaged by contact
with galvanised wire, the wire should be
painted, and the injurious character will be at
once removed.

Summer Management of Apricots.

This will commence in April with the dis¬
budding. Many do not disbud Apricots. They
simply allow all the breast wood to grow till
June, and prune it back to three or four buds or
leaves, which are left to form spurs to bear
fruit or not, according to circumstances, the
following year. These influential circumstances
to which I have just now alluded may be
summed up in two words — viz., mature
wood ; which may again be still further ex¬
plained by the words air, water, and sunshine ;
and I want to make it as plain as I can that a
tree thinly trained and properly summer pruned
will have an abundance of air, and the only
other thing stipulated for is water, which should
be given copiously in spring and summer, if the
weather is ary. If the fruit is to be taken from
young wood, the disbudder must take note of
it, and leave healthy shoots to fill up the
vacant spaces on the walls. Disbudding is an

easy enough operation to the experienced
practical man, because he knows what he wants
and the best and straightest way to obtain it,
but the mind of the tyro is often painfully exer¬
cised in the selection of the buds which arc
to remain. A trained eye and hand grasps the
situation at once, takes stock of the wall space
to be covered, and leaves a certain number of
young shoots to fill up the space, the remainder
except the leader to be gradually removed.
The majority of cultivators take the shoots
from the upper and lower sides of the main
shoots indiscriminately, wherever the best eye
can be obtained, but there is some advantage in
working on the Hamiltonian system, which is
briefly this : All the l>earing shoots spring from
and are trained on the upper side of the main
branches. This is simple enough, and all the dis¬
budder has to do is to select the best bud he can
find at the bottom of each bearing branch on the
upper side, and gradually remove all the
others except the leader. The chief advan¬
tage of this system lies in its clearness
and simplicity, and there is less margin left for
a blunderer to make mistakes. But very few
cultivators disbud Apricots and Plums on the
same Hues laid down for the Peach, though they
would succeed so treated. The usual plan is to
go over the trees when they break, and rub off
a few buds where they are too crowded, taking,
of course, the weakest. As the season
advances and the young wood has made, say,
six leaves, all the shoots except those required
for filling up vacancies on the walls should be
pinched back to three leaves, and all lateral
growth during the season must be pinched back
to one leaf. The young shoots should be nailed
in or secured to the wall in some other way to
keep them safe from wind.

Thinning the Fruit.

In good seasons when all the blossoms set
there would be too heavy a load for the tree to
bear, no matter how well the tree may be fed,
and I have proved often enough that if we
mulch and water with liquid manure
from the stoning period onward till they begin
to ripen, a tree in good health will carry an
immense load ; but a tree unaided can only carry
a limited weight of fruit; and if too many are
left on they must, of course, be small. If
the trees powers are unduly exhausted the
branches may die off from debility, or the health
and vigour of the tree may suffer in other ways.
Assuming that a fruit tree—an Apricot, for
instance—can only carry safely a given weight
of fruit, is it not more profitable to have that
weight in a smaller number than in a large one?
It will be seen from what I have written that
no rule can, or should be, laid down. The load
must be apportioned to the tree, and the
amount of assistance which can be given to it.
The best form for that assistance to assume is in

Mulching and Watering.

The mulch should consist of half-decayed
manure, and should be allowed to cover a large
rtion of the space occupied by the roots, and
placed on 3 inches thick. The keystone of
the culture of stone fruits (and for that matter
all other fruits) is in enticing the roots to come
up near the surface, and by judicious feeding to
keep them there. It is only in this way tnat
thick, strong, dark green foliage, capable of
nourishing stout, plump, fertile buds can be had,
and then there wall be but little superfluous

rowth, as all the wood made will be full of

lo8som buds, and any tree which carries its
rightful load of fruit does not get out of hand
and run wild. The mulching should not be put
on before it is needed, as we do not want to keep
out the sun’s w’armth and the warm air till the
weather becomes settled, say in June. The
beginning of the month will be the time in the
average of seasons, and it should be removed
again as soon as the fruits are ripe, so as by the
end of August to let in the sunshine to warm
the roots, which will have a maturing influence
upon the buds and foliage.

Winter Pruning.

This should be delayed in the case of the
Apricot and Peach till the sap is on the move to
show where the blossom buds are, and in the
pruning operations the crop can, as far as
possible, be left in a position to receive all the
shelter from the wall it is capable of giving. In
training the branches great care should be exer¬

cised that no injury bedone to the bark, toUytk
foundation for canker and gumming. Tb«
and shreds should be loosely arranged, to tar?
room for the branches to swell. Young bah
very often, for want of thinking, makemmah*
that produce serious mischief. Apriroti, if
well attended to in summer, do not need nr-rt
winter pruning ; in fact, the less the knife i>
used at that season the better. As regui
aspect. Apricots succeed very well on eii k
west walls in the southern counties, andahoa
the midlands, but in the north they should h
planted on the south wall, to ensure the
being well ripened in autumn.

Protecting the Blossoms.

Apricots flower earlier than other fruits,
the blossoms are very tender, more so than ti=
Peach ; but both this year and last the sharpen
frosts of the year were about when the Aprio®
were as large as the end of ones finger, at
sheltered by the foliage. Still, though tfch 9
often so, considering the fragile nature of &
flowers, and how often the young fruits a
blackened by frost when exposed, no *
who wishes to secure a crop (and I supper l
wish that) will leave the trees exposed. I inn
tried a good many ways of affording protects
and, after securing a good coping. I hir>
finally come back to the old-fashioned syne?
of Yew branches and fishing nets. I find a
these simple, inexpensive materials, protect-
enough to save the crop without weakening t»
trees by over doing it. I never cover beiar
the blossoms begin to open, and I do not alto
gether uncover till the middle of May, and not
then if the nights are cold and frosty. In
Yew branches are cut small, and are tcckk
under the branches of the trees in •
manner that they will afford protection to tsr.
blossoms, and the fishing-nets, in one or rr-
thicknesses as may be needful, are suspends::
front, and secured to prevent the wind doisf
injury to the trees.

The Propagation of the Apricot
is a very easy thing to do. Many of
Apricots on cottage walls have been raised fits
seed by some of the children planting a stet
Seedlings vary a good deal, and some may k
useless, but I have seen many seedlings nisi
from the Moor Park which have turned -
well, and, unlike the Peach, seedling Apri
are healthy and vigorous on their own re
and if planted in firm ground soon cornea'
bearing. The system adopted in the nr.rserr.
to bud Apricots on the Muscle Plum, i
operation of budding is very simple, but «e?
judgment is required in the selection of r .
buds and also the right time ; but os regard
the latter, when the bark works freely acJ tk
buds can be had in the right condition, thertb
not much fear of failure. From the end of J-v
to the end of August is the best time to‘t
fruits of all kinds. Insert the buds in
side of the stem near the ground, on tb
western or north-western side, as in this p*
tion the buds may be shaded a little from the m
The tie should be loosened as soon as the bad»
fairly established.

Insects and Diseases.

Apricots are sometimes attacked by apb 1 -
and red spider, but they are easily freed
these pests by using the usual remedies,
have been elsewhere referred to. A specie* 61
brown scale sometimes establishes itsel- c
Apricot trees. It usually appears on tree*
weak health, and can easily be got rid on,
using a strong wash of Gishurst compound *

winter, 5 or Gouncestothegallonofwatcr. It®!
in bad cases, be thickened with lime, soot, ^
sulphur, adding a dash of Tol»cco liquor to
mass, stirring it till it assumes the consist*®?
paint, when it can be applied with a F 1CU | ;
brush in winter, when the leaves are down, r
before the buds start. The diseases which 00
much injury to Apricots on some soils we g®
ming and canker, or branch-dying. In the U.
respect the Apricot is singularly
No other fruit tree does the like, and the 1 *
has been a puzzle for many years.
horticultural writers, Loudon, Nicol, arm
sythe, say nothing about it, perhaps tnroui
not observing it, or else it did not oocur
so pronounced a form as now. ' ie
large branch, in some cases half a
dies suddenly there must be a cause. ■
worst cases which have come under my L

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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

varied and comprehensive thing than it has
been the fashion to make it. Even in ft small
garden it is possible to grow one or two of each
of many classes of Roses besides the exhibition
favourites, and in larger gardens the best of
every class can be grown, and a great variety
of decorative effects secured.

Even amongst the Hybrid Perpetuals there is
a considerable variation in foliage and habit,
according as one or other of the races pre¬
dominates from which these Roses have sprung.

One of the most satisfactory ways in which
Roses can be grown is as

Bush Roses in Special Beds.

All Roses planted for decorative purposes
should be ou their own roots. Varieties which
it is desirable to grow which do not do well
in that form should be grown by themselves.
Bushes on Manetti, seedling Briar, or other
stocks, may be planted, but should be converted
into own-root Roses as early as possible.

One disadvantage the Rose has along witli
many other florists’ flowers—namely, it cannot
be used as a plant to be mixed up with other
things ; it requires a free root run, and to grow
it well such constant cultivation and liberal sup-

f )lies of manure are required that it is an abso-
ute necessity that Rose beds shall be filled with
Roses only, except about the outer edges. This
need create no difficulty, however, as there are

nervation were trees which in early'life had i to the stigmatic portion of the flow
ade very rapid progress. They had been ! do not get fruit after that dig the 1
ianted in borders newly made of turfy loam ! cumberer of the ground, and plant
id the growth had been luxuriant; but as soon 1 Early York, Hale’s Early, or R
i the wall was nicely covered the branches variety.—J. D. E.

?gan to die and had to be removed, and at last I 11523.— Insects on Cherry trees.—'
ie trees became such an eyesore as to render
fresh start necessary. I think one source of
le mischief was overfeeding when young,
pricots do not want a rich soil, and it should
mtain plenty of lime and should be kept in a
rm condition. When the trees have made
>me growth and begin to bear, it is an easy
atter to feed with liquid manure in proportion
* the load they are carrying. Borders made of
lopped turf are elastic and light, and for a few

GARDEN ROSES.

Roses may be almost strictly divided into
garden or decorative Roses, and exhibition
Roses, for, although many of the best varieties

_u.ui. r...____1 _

lifficulty, howev
so many varieties of the Rose of varying heights
e and flower, that
Roses alone. The
that nothing shall be

beautiful beds can be made
only real restrictions
planted over the roots of the Roses, or to shade
that clumps of Rose bushes may have

r een

them.

Bush Roses on their own roots do not require
such a heavy and firm soil as standards ou the

them,

broad bands of other plants round and betw'

heavy and firm soil as standards ou the
Briar, and can be grown in a soil that will suit
most of the

herbaceous plants, and
especially the florists’ section of half-hardy
annuals—Stocks, Zinnias, Asters, and Phlox
Drummondii. In selecting Roses for decorative
beds attention should be paid to the habit of
the plant, and the character of the foliage, as
well as to the flowers. The foliage of some

Rose, Gloire de Dijon

plant, by concentrating attention on the improve¬
ment of the flower only, by the introduction of
the unnatural and ungainly standards, and by
the use of foster roots for the plants, preventing
their development into free-growing bushes.
These practices have tended to narrow the uses
of the Rose in gardens, and to make its cultiva¬
tion in anything like good form too much a
matter for specialists.

Writers for the gardening press have in many
instances praised the exhibition varieties as the
perfection of Roses, and mentioned all other
kinds as quite of secondary importance ; and
the public, following their lead, and enchanted
with the beauty of the exhibited flowers, have
so ignored all other kinds as to make it
unprofitable for the nurseryman to keep or
improve them. The growing taste for a style of
garden in which a variety of plants can be
grown so as to allow of their developing their
natural habits is now creating a demand for the
old-fashioned bush Roses. The cultivation and
improvement of these need not in the least
interfere with the continued improvement of the
exhibition flower. There is a great amount of
useful material in the show’ Roses, and in the
growing of new varieties of these the raiser will
now have two strings to his bow, and need
not destroy a seedling that is not up
to the exhibition standard, provided it is
hardy, free-flowering, and vigorous, with plenti¬
ful foliage, and flow’er3 of good shape and
colour. The Rose partakes of the unfortunate
peculiarity of all florists’ flowers, namely, that
of any batch of seedlings the best, according to
the florist’s standard, will generally have the
weakest constitutions. This is a drawback the
raiser of new T varieties has continually to con¬
tend with, and the keeping up of a parallel race
of vigorous bush Roses of the same breeds allowed
to grow freely in gardens, may eventually
strengthen the race of Roses all alon^j the line,
and give us a Marie Baumann as vigorous os
Gloire de Dijon, and a Louis van Houtte, or a
| Xavier Olibo as free-flow’ering as Duke of
Connaught.

I The Rose garden of all but those who grow’
Roses for exhibition should be a much more

FRUIT.

uruit tree protectors.— Once more a
Iliant promise of a fruitful season is wrecked
cruel easterly winds and late spring frosts ;

* latter are most treacherous, for the winter
1, up to the very end of what can reasonably
called wrinter time, been singularly free from
st, and March had been uuusually merciful
regards keen w’inds, and as the month of
ril was draw'ing to a close and fruit prospects
ked most brilliant, we began to congratulate
'selves on having, for once, the elements
ogether favourable. But the end of April and
it few days of May brought a decided change.
Id, biting winds and keen frosts, such as w’e
1 not experienced the whole winter, followed
h other night after night, and now the
es are generally fruitless. Many cultivators,
led into a sense of perfect security, had
fleeted to put up any sort of protectors as the
vson was so genial and far advanced. But I
d that those who took the precaution are well
paid. In this locality I have seen good crops
wall fruit saved by putting a screen of dry
a sticks, about 2 feet from the w r all, fastening
securely to a framework of poles, and
eking the bottom ones into the soil ; these
ike a capital protection, letting in light
d »ir, but breaking cold currents of air
it arc so destructive to tender vegetation ; for
aiay remark that in this locality the wind is
tfe destructive than the actual frost, as being
such close proximity to the sea the gales are
and the wind is highly charged wdth
line particles that destroy the tender foliage
a fiery blast.— J. G., Hants.

11520.— Peach tree not fruiting.— As
■ar Peach tree blossoms freely, and yet does
•t set its fruit, probably it is not a free setting
that you have. You ought to keep the
* a* as dry as you can while the fruit is setting,
■^i it is a good plan to go over the blossoms
'i-H a small camel-hair brush every day about
; and remove the pollen from the anthers on

Digitized by Goooli

Cabbage Rose (Rosa Centidiflora).

wild Dog Rose of the hedges—they form an
underground mass of wood, the character of
which is seen in a Briar-root Tobacco-pipe.
From this spring vigorous whip-like shoots,
which although not st^i<|tly bicjunial, like those
of the Raspberry, arc generally short-lived.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
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142

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Where a plantation of Roses is made as a per¬
manent feature in a garden, the formation of a
perennial root stock, and the annual production

Pompone Rose.

of vigorous young shoots from it, is essential to
the formation of satisfactory bushes. When
suckers from bushes are planted they begin to

Damask Roso (Rosa dam&scena).

grow into nice plants at once, but where layers
or cuttings are used it is generally three years
before a natural growth begins. With bush

Roses no attempt should be made to make them
form stems like those of a very dwarf standard

they should be ei

Digitized! by

raged to fowu a stool, and

encouraged to town a

Go gie

send up a sheaf of shoots annually. The plant
then assumes its natural habit, and, properly
treated, retains its vigour and beauty for a life¬
time, or longer. Even standards do not do
well unless this habit of sending out long shoots
annually from the base of the plant can be in¬
duced, the point where the bud was inserted
becoming a sort of false root stock to the plant.

Choice of Roses for Beds.

No general rule can be laid down for this.
The only necessity is that the Tea Roses have a

Bourbon Rose (Rosa Bourbonica).

lighter soil than the other kinds, and a slightly
sloping and sheltered position. For large beds
very vigorous varieties can be chosen for the
centre, and slightly pruned so as to induce
flowering mostly at the tips of the shoots ;
around these less vigorous kinds, and the
moderate and dwa?f kinds about the outer
margins. The round Pox-like bushes of Scotch
Roses can be contrasted with the looser and
branching growth of the Teas and Chinas, and
the handsome bushes of the Alba Roses may
contrast with the single upright suckers of the

Noisette Rose (Rosa Noisettiana).

Moss Roses. Again, the summer flowering
Rosea may be mixed with the autumnals to
make a bed that will look well at all seasons.
Wild Rosea are very much alike in their flowers,
and almost as great a variety of form of flower
may be found in the wild Dog Rose of our
hedges as exists among wild Roses. If one may
judge from the cultivated flowers the Dog Rose
occupies an intermediate place between Roses
with shorter petals, from which some of our
climbing Roses have originated, and Roses with
deeper petals, which have given birth to th$

Rosa cristata.

[Mat 31,

Teas and Chinas ; but Dog Roses may
in our hedges with the long pointed

deep petal of the Tea Rose, and even with i
slight yellow’ tinge at the base of the petal*.

Tea Rose (Melaine Willerinoz).

There are many different shapes of Ro«
produced by varied shape of petal, but a god

Bengal Rose (Rosa Beugalensis).

Rose of jut kiwi should

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

V£a* 81, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

143

» petals should bo complete ; there should be
1 life pence in shape between the real petals of
flower and those formed from the trans-
ned stamens ; all the petals should present a
ilar arrangement ami curvature from the
tre of the flower to its circumference ; if any
erence exists it should be in the centre petals
xg less turned outwards at their points ; the
tion through the petals of a good Hose Bhould
- sent a series of similar curves radiating from
yoint in the centre of the flower, and spreading
f as they recede from their springing point.

this series of enclasping shell forms, each
l ining but little from the wild form of petal,

closely-formed globular Roses both these features
are at their minimum. These closely-arranged
globular flowers do not open well in cold, wet
seasons, another reason why they should be
avoided.

Rose bushes planted for decoration should
not be hard primed, but should only be slightly
shortened, and have the old wood cut out.
Therefore care should be exercised in planting,
to avoid placing very vigorous kinds in front of
those of moderate growth. From among the
| Hybrid Perpetuals may be selected many which
will form nice bushes, alx>ut 5 feet high. It is
not advisable to have bushes much higher than

flowering or the autumnal flowering races pre¬
dominate in their composition. It is through
these four classes of Roses producing more than
one crop of blooms that they have to so great an
| extent ousted the old Roses from our gardens
Of the old Roses the Gallicas, or French Roses,
need scarcely be regretted, except for gardens
near smoky towns. They are very vigorous,
and make nice bushes, with good foliage, and
may still be planted as shrubbery Roses with
good effect; but for choicer situations they are
superseded by the newer kinds.

Thr Alban ami Damask* should on no account
be omitted from even the smallest collection.

( hich makes the Rose the most satisfactory of
11 double flowers.

Of what are called good Roses the worst in
>rm are those called globular, and especially
wse in which the centre petals form nearly a
phere, enclosed by a few rows of petals, turning
ver more and more towards the outside of the
ower. This is a decidedly ugly and unin-
eresting shape, and one which all growers of
he Rose should set their faces against. Of all
Koaea lighter than full crimson, and of many
krker kinds, the most beautiful feature, from a
wloarist's point of view, is the fiery lighting up
of the deepest shadows amongst the petals of
A* flower by the transmitted light through the
P*t*l*. The more open the Rose, the more this
totare is shown, up to a certain point. Then,
to dark Roses, the more of the upper velvety
rortoce of the petals we see the better. In

that as a general rule, although some of the
old-fashioned Roses may be allowed to run
higher. The taller varieties should have the
support of a picturesque trellis, or group of
poles of Bomo kind. It seems to be the natural
habit of moBt Roses to grow amongst things
which will support and protect them.

Classes of Roses.

Roses are divided for convenience into summer
flowering and autumn flowering. Nearly all the
old Roses were summer flowering. They
flowered but once a year—in June or July.
The Teas, Bourbons, Chinas, Noisettes, and
Hybrid Perpetuals flower both in summer and
in autumn. The first four families produce
their best flowers in the autumn in moat
seasons. The perpetuals produce their best
blooms early or late, according as the summer !

Digitized by

Gck gle

The Albas form nice bushes from 3 to 7 feet
high, with plentiful foliage, of the colour and
texture of that of a Raspberry. The flowers
are flattish, resembling a Camellia or Gardenia.
The old white is a beautiful and early Rose,
and will thrive anywhere where a Rose will

g row ; the flow ers are pure w hite. The Maiden’s
lush is less robust, and requires a little better
cultivation. It is described in old books as a
sport of the old white, but seems now’ to have
got mixed up with Rose Celeste, a hybrid of
the same colour. Madame Legras is an im¬
proved Alba, larger, but not such a vigorous

S lant; it is also later, but the flowers are pro-
uced in succession, which is an advantage.
La Seduisante is a beautiful flesh pink Rose,
and Madame Angot is similar in colour, but
leans a little to the Gallicas in the shape of
flower. The Damasks are fcimilfcr to the Albas,

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
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144

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Mat 81,1884

but are 1 p3s compact bushes when left to them¬
selves, and are best kept in shape with the
pruning knife. Madame Zoetmans is a splen¬
did large cream-coloured Rose ; Madame Hardy
is a good white ; La Ville de Bruxelles is a fine
pink, with a slight tinge of salmon ; and York
and Lancaster is the old striped Damask. These
grow from 3 to 4 feet high. Both these classes
are much more sweetly scented than the newer
Roses. Occasionally, in old gardens, a seed¬
ling of the old white may be seen with semi¬
double flowers, and growing 10 or 12 feet high.
This is a beautiful hardy shrub, exactly match¬
ing the double Guelder Rose.

The Provence , or Cabbage Boses, and their
offspring the Moss Roses, are old favourites not
so often grown as they ought to be in small
gardens. They should always be grown as
sucker forming bushes. The best flowers are
on the shoot3 of the previous year, which should
be shortened, and the old wood cut away. They
require a good rich soil and high cultivation.
The best are the common Cabbage, the white
Provence, common Moss, Gloire de Mousseuses,
and Marie de Blois, pink ; Comtesse Murinais
and Reine Blanche, white; and Captain Ingram,
purple.

There are several hybrid Roses which are not
perpetuals, but which form very beautiful
bushes.

Coupe d’Heb6 is one of the most beautiful
Roses in cultivation, free blooming, colour full
pink. Charles Lawson is also a good pink Rose,
making a nice bush. Paul Ricaut and William
Jesse are both good, of darker colours. Madame
Plantier, white, is an extraordinary bloomer.
Two good Roses which should be in all gardens
are Harrisonii and Persian Yellow, the first full
pure yellow, the other more golden. These
should be planted where the shoots can be bent
down, and their tips fastened to short stakes.
When well grown these Roses are wreathed in
flowers along every shoot from base to tip,
every bud producing several blooms. They
are very early, and continue in flower for some
time. They should be grown on their own roots.

The Scotch Boses make round, buxom bushes,
from 3 to 4 feet high, with small leaves in
great abundance, so that the bushes resemble
Box trees. The flowers are small, just the thing
for a buttonhole, and freely produced ; colours,
sulphur, white, pink, rose, and crimson. These
do capitally in borders amongst herbaceous
plants, if the soil is good and plentifully
manured.

Autumnal Boses. —Amongst these the Hybrid
Perpetuals claim first place. It is a much easier
matter to make a selection of these for garden
decoration than for show, bo many of the best
show flowers being comparatively shy bloomers,
and not strong enough in growth for bush Roses.
The following are all strong-growing, free-
flowering, showy kinds. White : Boule de
Neige, Louise Darzens, Perfection do Blanches.
White to full pink : Madame Alfred de Rouge-
mont, Baronne Prevost, Peach Blossom, Mar¬
guerite de St. Ainand, Duchess of Edinburgh,
Duchess de Vallomhrosa, Comtesse de Serenye,
La France, Antoine Mouton, Elizabeth Vigneron,
La Reine. Full pink to full crimson : Victor
Verdier, Dupny Jamain, Jules Margottin, John
Hopper, Madame de Cambaceres, Madame
Victor Verdier, Camille Bernardin, Beauty of
Waltham, Alfred Colomb, Senateur Vaisse.
Full crimson to purple and maroon : General
Jacqueminot, Duke of Edinburgh, Charles
Lefebvre, Eugene Appert, Crown Prince, Duke
of Connaught, Avoeat Duvivier, Prince Camille
de Rohan, Jean Cherpin.

Bourbon Boses. —This is a beautiful class of
ate flowering Roses, with rather flattish flo\yers.
The best are Baronne Maynard (white), Souvenir
de la Malmaison (a beautiful Rose of a most ex¬
quisite pale creamy flesh colour), Acidalie (blush
white—a strong grower), Michel Bonnet (rosy
peach), and Sir Joseph Paxton (rose). These
are all very satisfactory garden Roses. A
dwarfer section of Bourbons is represented by
Madame Gustave Bonnet (white), Armosa (pink),
Queen (buff rose), and Queen of Bedders (crim
son). These form dwarf free-blooming little
bushes, about 2 feet high, or a little over.

Chinn Bow *.—With these can be associated
the dwarfer China Roses, a class of Rosea which
seem totally unkuown in small gardens. The
flowers are miniature Roses, about 2 inches
across, beautifully formed, the dark ones rich
\nd velvety, borne on pretty little bushes of

glossy foliage. Archduke Charles, Napoleon,
Prince Charles, Cramoisie Superieure, Fabvier,
and Eugene Beauharnais are a good selection.
Taller Chinas are Ducher (pure white), Mrs.
Bosanquet (cream), and what is usually called
the common China. The China Roses are
closely allied to our Dog Rose. They are only
known in their double or garden form. The
China Rose (Rosa Indiea) is a strong growing,
climbing Rose, with glossy foliage and large
bright pink flowers, almost scentless, which
open quickly, and fall to pieces as soon os
opened ; the wood will not stand frost, but if
cut down in the autumn it will make rods 4 to
6 feet high in early summer, which flower
freely. Its blooming season is too short to
make it worth growing. The Tea Roses are
supposed to have sprung from an allied species
with a tea scent, hardier wood, and darker
foliage, with a reddish tinge on foliage and
shoots. This assumed species is named Rosa
Indiea odorata. The common China of the
catalogues is Rosa Bengalensis, or R. Semper-
florens, the Bengal or Everflowcring Rose.
This well-known Rose would flower the whole
year if our climate would allow. It is a very
useful Rose to have in a garden, as when on
its own roots it is scarcely ever out.of bloom,
and a cluster of its blooms and buds is always
pretty in a vase with its own shining leaves and
a few grasses.

Tea Bosps are troublesome to grow in open
beds in our climate. A few,warm days early
in the season sets them growing, and the tender
shoots are too often fatally cut off by late frosts.
With the weak growers'! should always feel in¬
clined to promote strong growth ivftcr. mid¬
summer, so as to strengthen the root stock, and
cut the year’s growth down to a few buds at
the base of the shoots in the spring if the winter
was not extremely favourable. Grow theoq, t in
fact, exactly as the hardy Fuchsias are grown.
A plentiful crop of late .Mummer and autumn
flowers is then produced on the shoots of the
year. , £

Climbing Boses .—Ik is to these we must look
for the most distinctive ami‘.beautiful effects in
garden decoration. It is a mistake to nail Roses
to walls. The Rose is not naturally a wall
plant, like the Ivy and Virginia creeper. The
nature of a climbing Rose is to scramble up
among stronger plants, supporting itself by its
hooked thorns; and, although our double
garden Roses require all the ground to them¬
selves, they do not thereby lose their natural
habits of growth. A trellis,, or a group of
rustic poles, such as young Fir trees, harked
and deprived of their branches, is the proper
support for climbing Roses. Ifwanted to hide
a wall they should still be grown on a trellis.
It seems to be to the advantage, of climbing
Roses that the flowering wood at least shall
grow loosely. Nowhere do they flower so well
as lying over the cottage porch, or on a low
roof where they can bask in sunshine. For
picturesque effect good use can be made of the
Ayrshire Roses. These are slender-growing,
rambling Roses, with small semi-double flowers,
white, pink, or flesh-coloured. They are useful
for all sorts of positions where wreaths and
festoons of flowers arc wanted, as they will
scramble over bushes, run up trees, or cover
banks or heaps of stones. All they require is
planting in suitable positions, in well-prepared
rich soil, and then to be left to themselves.

Evergreen Boses .—Evergreen or Sempervirens
Roses are rapid climbers, producing great
clusters and sheets of very double small flowers
when established a year or two. The colours
are white and pink. These require no pruning,
hut only an occasional thinning out of the old
wood. The foliage is plentiful, of a dark glossy
green, and stands through a mild winter.
These will quickly cover a trellis, wall, or fence,
and look w'ell with a group of poles to support
them, the central shoots growing upright 10 feet
or so, and the side shoots bending outwards.
From their close rich foliage they make beautiful
arlxmrs.

The Musi- Bose is an upright grower, with
strong shoots and semi-double flowers resembling
Carnations, produced in clusters mostly about
the tips of the shoots; the flowers are white.
The Fringed Musk has serrated petals, and
Princess do Nassau (straw yellow) and River’s
Musk (pink and buff) are similar to the type,
except in colour. These should not be pruned ;
they look well on a trellis. Madame D’Arblay

is very similar with smaller flowers more iradj
produced ; it is a stronger grower, prodn^
shoots 10 to 12 feet long. It is a hybrid 4
Musk and Sempervirens, and, like the lis,
flowers early. The Garland is a similar hvbni
leaning more to the Sempervirens; itisavojj
strong growing Rose ; best on a trellis. Tk
shoots of one year flower profusely the next,
when all the weak growth should be cutaway;
all the shoots that spring from the one-vear4i
wood after blooming is over should be left hat*
ing loose, next year these will be perfect sb
of bloom. All strong shoots springing from tin
base of the plant should be trained in, and dd
wood cut aw ay to make room for them. Tin
blooms of this Rose are small and semi donhls,
opening a pinkish buff, changing to white, id
dying off pale pink. It is a very sbowy shra >

Noisette Boses are hybrids between the Mask
Rose and Tea Rose, and are summer ad
autumn bloomers. They fall into three gronp-
Aim£e Vibert and Caroline Marniesse iwitk
white flow’ers) lean to the Musk in every wr;
the flow’ers are flattish, in clusters, and fretij
produced. Celine Forestier (yellow), La Bka
(cream), and Jeanne de Arc (yellowish white,
are intermediate between the parents. Laming.
Ophirie, Solfaterre, Rdve d'Or, Marshal M,
and several others, being hybridized again whi
the Teas, are very muen more Tea than MaA
These Tea Noisettes, how'ever, have mosty
yellow flowers, and are hardier than mod
of the yellow'-flowered Teas; they are
strong growlers and free-flowering, ifnotprad
but only thinned out. Climbing Teas are mastlT
either hybrids of Tea and Perpetual, or sad
lings from Gloire de Dijon. Those which a
not are, as a rule, too tender for outdoor ns,
except in the most favourable climates in tk
south of England and Ireland. Gloire deDijpt
and Cheshunt Hybrid are the two most uses!
sorts. After these may be planted Belle Lyoa-
naise (yellow), Madame Berard (rose). Madia
Trifle (salmon), and Reine Marie Henriette(red 1
The best climbing Roses with large flowers Lr*
summer flowering hybrids. Blairii, number 2,
is one of the best, colour blush pink. This Ko*
should not be pruned. Other good kinds are.
Chenedole, Vivid, and Fulgens (crimsoni
Bren nits, or Brutus, is a strong crimson R<*
w'hich will.grow T near towns. Amongst Hvbrti
Perpetuals Glory of Waltham is & eplemid
crimson Rose which will climb or make a hi?
bush.as desired. Princess Louise Victoria m
very, free-flowering flesh pink climlier.

The Boursault Boses are splendid vigors
climbers, with the advantage of wood alnw*
destitute of thorns, which makes them
handled. They are rapid growers when *d!
fed, with fine foliage and plentiful flovera
Gracilis (pink) and Amadis (crimson) are titf
two best.

Fortune's Yellow is a beautiful Hose vln:a
should be in every garden. It requires plenti
ful manuring, and a snnny place, w’here it cat
run up a low wall and scramble at will. Over tec
roof of an outhouse is just the place for it. iorA
is best nnpruned. It is very much of a Tea l
appearance, but stands quite by itself amew
Roses.

Multiflorfl. Boses are good climbers, but tco
tender for any but sheltered positions. Rms*-
liana is a very free-flowering rigorous
w’hich makfes a nice bush on its own roots. It>
flow r ers are dark crimson, very donble, tr
petals so small as to make the flower someth
resemble a French Marigold. Hundred: a
flowers are produced in large clusters,
flow r er on a longish stem. This is a
easily-grown representative of the class whici
should be grown as differing so much from oti*-
Roses. _ ,

Those who wish to progress with the cuiw*
of Roses as decorative garden plants should
upagood border of rich soil in the kitchen
and plant it with a good selection of Hybrid
petuals, as budded dw’arf bushes. Growth
well w-ithout pruning, and make
Roses from them by layers and cuttings, n
these are well established transfer them ,
borders, lifting each with a good hall oi c3
about the roots. This wall give the °*®' .
Roses the best chance of doing well,
if they are not pruned until well eatabu- 1
and growing freely. Every healthy
to the strength of a plant; and there can
doubt that the merciless pruning to wbicn
Roses are subjected as soon as they are pm

Digitized by

Gck igle

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

not conducive to their strength as plants,
here can be no doubt, with rational treatment,
tost Roses would do best on their own roots,
here can be only three advantages in budding
rgrafting plants—weaker, but more floriferous
rowth, stronger growth through stronger
►.-iter roots, and quickness in producing plants
f a flowering size. The last is the principal
ivantage in budding Roses, for although
udded plants may grow best to begin with,
om the very fact of the sap having to pass
om old roots through an old hide-bound stem,
ad the natural habit of sending up fresh young
—new roots being prevented, those

landscape artists ; for they only are

such artistic value to a clump of Scotch Firs
or Italian Stone Pines. Regularly-shaped trees
have no decorative value from an artistic stand¬
point, and no artist would ever think of intro¬
ducing them into a picture. Another hope¬
lessly bad thing in gardens is the treatment of

Climbing Plants.

One of the best things to cover a w'all with is
Ivy ; but it is generally very badly managed.
Ivy should not be planted to cover a wall
unless it can be allowed to have its own
way. It should never be trimmed or trained,

lems with

udded plants cannot be
x or seven years after
ieir own roots. Buddt
lake roots of their own,

vantage over own-root plants.

planting as plants on
>d dwarfs are said to
but even then there is

„ . w -1 r -—I see some

id standards daily, which make annual shoots
and 5 feet long, but the same Rose makes
loots 12 feet long on its own roots.

The B' ugal Rose is put down in the catalogues
i a moderate grower, and one usually sees it

oval, or in patterns, especially when edged with
uniform or neat-growing plants, and all dotting
about of Conifers, round, lumpy evergreens, or
bunchy plants of any kind on turf.

A row of regularly planted trees even in the
distance will spoil the most beautiful landscape
in the world, and in the same way a few dotted
shrubs on a lawm, or a circular or oval bed cut
out on it, will act like the fly in the ointment of
the apothecary, and ruin the finest garden picture
that could be made. Almost of equal importance
in garden effects is the necessity of avoiding all
sharply defined edges at the meeting of grass and
_i i __j x . - 1 ** g or trimming of

the production of |

xhibition Roses is the one showm in our illus-
ation. It is named Alfred K. Williams, after

i raiser. It 1 ' '

oved, and it

Its character has now been fully
a Rose well calculated to sustain
iereputation of its fortunate raiser, whose name
associated with such good and well tried Roses
Auguste Rigotard, one of the most beautiful
the cherry reds ; Duchesse de Vallombrosa, a
vely pink, and one which in a dry, hot summer
second to none ; Egeria, an improvement in

Wrong w’ay of growing plants.

but should be allowed to run up to the
full height of the w r all, and form great
ses there. If the new scarlet-
at all equal to its native parent,

shrubs w’hich will result _ t _

rounded banks of foliage, and especially of
rcundcd b z.z.\zz -~d .—evergreens.

Evergreens

should always be introduced singly, or in
small groups, amongst deciduous trees and

rounded banks and masses of

berried sort is at all equal to its native parent,
Hedera Helix, it will go far to abolish the abuse
of Ivy, for the Ivy will not flower unless
allowed to grow freely and assume its round¬
leaved form. The Ivies here are one sheet of
bloom in the autumn, but they have not been
touched for many years, and the stems form a
mat 9 inches thick on the top of the wall, from
which spring great masses of greenery a yard
high, and 4 feet across. Hedera Helix, the

to the readers of Gardening,
■ J** arrangement of the plants
th i 8 to produce a good deco

Bstttr

Right w ay of growing plants.

are as to what a good effect really is.
matters requiring thought and study it
•wst to be guided by those who have time to
JWote to thought und study, and to endeavour
follow and appreciate the roasons for various
JJJP* Doing so saves time, and makes the
®"° nr of the few available for the use of the

mp-

there is only one class of men who are
°f speaking with authority as to ornod

pretty little Ivy of the road-sides, is even more
rampant when allowed to reach the blooming
stage. One bush of it covers the roof of an out¬
house with a solid mass of blooming stems 4 feet
high from the roof, and bearing thousands of
clusters of berries. If the scarlet-berried
variety will grow anything like that it will
prove invaluable. Four things, then, should be
avoided if we wish to improve our gardens.
Formal beds cut out <m turf, formal shrubs

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS A
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

a. IRDEWIWG ILL U ST RATED

dotted on turf, lumpy and child’s toy garden-
shaped Evergreens plauted singly or in masses,
and neatly-trained climbers covering walls or
fences.

Of the permanent features of most small
gardens, and of many large ones, the only ones
that can be retained with advantage are the
shrubberies and the lawn. The whole planting
and treatment of the shrubbery, however, is
utterly alwurcL This is the more wonderful
l>ecausc in many instances the same men who
do the right thing when they plant a covert for
game, where ornament is not considered, go

if the same conditions are arranged for them as j
in the woods. Why separate the shrubberies ]
from the lawn by a belt of starving plants in dry
earth, when by allowing the turf to run in among
the shrubs, and through them in little glades,
planting in the turf such flowers as will grow
there, and woodland plants in the shrubbery,
so much better effect could bo produced ? It is
lamentable to notice how garden designers will
go wrong with the right staring them in the
face. There is a piece of Victoria Park, on the
north side of the largest lake, which is a melan¬
choly instance of this. The ground and shrub¬
beries have been planned to represent a natural
effect of woodland fringe to a lake, with undu¬
lating grassy glades, Dut the whole effect is
ruined by the shrubberies being duz, and the
turf chopped off on the margin of them, with
steep edge 6 inches high, and in middle of most
of the grassy glades is placed a stiff bed of
bedding plants like a huge penny tart laid out
to cool. Now the proper treatment of such
a scene is to follow Nature as closely as
jxissible. Mow the Grass only in the middle
of the glades where the rabbits would nibble it
in the wild wood. Avoid everything in the shape
of l>ed8, but plant Primroses and wood Anemones
amongst the shrubs ; Cowslips, Daffodils, Snow-
drops, and Colchicuras about the fringes of the
turf. Allow the leaves to lie in autumn and
winter, and institute deep beds of leaf mould for
Primulas, Auriculas, Pansies, Anemones, and
Lilies in the glades amongst the shrubs, and
experiment with exotic woodland plants, as to
whether they would stand the London air. Such
a region in a London park, where you could
imagine the absence of the great city, would be
worth all the bedding displays in the world.

In Country Districts

all that is required is to imitate the arrange¬
ment of a natural woodland copse as closely as
possible, pulling up all objectionable plants, and
substituting exotics which will grow in the same
situations. Climbing plants both annual and
perennial should be allowed to form festoons
and irregular masses of foliage and flowers.

Clematis ; these should be allowed to assno*
their natural habit. Where the position is tv
windy to allow of this treatment other elmbcj
should be chosen. With regard to

Flowering Plants,

a great multitude of those suitable for oar
climate will crow perfectly well near shrubs and
trees, provided these are not evergreen, and
that there is no root disturbance in the shape of
hoeing, digging, or forking over, or exposure o {
the crowns of the plants by tidying-up of any
kind in autumn and winter, for many are in-
jurecl, even if the withered stems are cutoff,
allowing water to accumulate in the hollow
remains of them, which water becomes rods of
ice in a hard frost, carrying death into the very
vitals of the plant.

Many plants, however, and especially tfc*
which by constant cultivation under artifitia
conditions have become far removed from their
natural ancestors, will not thrive under this
treatment. To bring these into a decoratm
scheme large informal beds must be provided
far enough from shrubs and trees to befreefm
the encroachment of their roots. The bat
place for these beds is round the fringes of tb
lawn ; one objection to this plan is that th
beauty of the flowers cannot be enjoyed free
the windows of the house. A very valid objee
tion, but one which can be got over by a differs
arrangement on the various aspects of the
house. The garden of a house of any six?
should always be all round it except on the
side occupied by the kitchen, A,c., and tb?
public rooms, having three different aspects,
may have three distinct treatments. A north
or east aspect should face a flowery garden,
because so many plants turn their flowers to
face the sun ; a south or west aspect may face
a lawn bordered with trees and shrubs opening
on a distant prospect, and decorated with
dwarf plants, and those which flower all round
indifferently. It is certainly an advantaged
have early spring and late and winter flower
ing plants near the house, as during these
seasons it is not uncommon for the weather fc

Wrong way of growing climbers.

utterly wrong when they plant and grow shrubs
for ornament.

A garden shrubbery should be far more
beautiful, both on the ground and overhead,
than a woodland copse. But this is scarcely
ever the case. The first step forward i 9 to
make the one at least equal in beauty to the
other.

1 To effect this two things are necessary. First,
plant trees and shrubs which are naked in
winter almost wholly, with just an evergreen
bush here and there; second, prepare the
ground well in the first instance, plant thinly,
and never touch the ground afterwards with
spade, r^Jte, or hoc. Handpick weeds, but
allow all the withered leaves to lie and rot.

See what Nature does in the open copse, and
take a lesson from that as to what she would do
for us in our garden shrubberies, if allowed.
I noticed a square yard of soil at the foot of an
Oak by the edge of a woodland path recently.
The patch was taken at random. There were
growing in it, besides many small Grassos, 5
large tufts of a coarse Grass, 13 Primroses, 5
wild Strawberries, 3 clumps of Dog Violet, a
countless multitude of wood Anemones, several
sprays of Ivy, 5 wood Hyacinths, 1 Columbine,
and 10 Orchids of 3 different species, besides
the quantum of the Oak tree roots. Would it
not puzzle our l>eat gardeners, with all their
skill, to grow such a multitude of healthy plants
in one yard square of shrubbery border, already

Climber growing naturally, and, therefore, graceful and beautiful.

\\j

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

147

Mat 31 , 1884 ]

Kreadth of effect iii a garden, as a rockery need
not rise more than a few inches above the level
of the ground.

A kind ot garden for which a great deal might
be said would be one without Grass turf as an
iruameutal feature. That is the true old-
fashioned style, and a very good one it was.
A description of one laid out about sixty years
ago may be interesting. The plot of ground
was about 100 yards from north to south, and
about 60 yards from east to west, and sur¬
rounded on three sides by stone walls 7 feet
high. Three lines from east to west would
divide the ground into three equal divi¬
sions. The house occupied the centre of the
north division, leaving room behind for a
vegetable border, 20 feet wide, with fruit trees
\nd Currant trees on the boundary wall. The
pace at each end of the house was occupied by
trees and shrubs, with a carpet of the woodland
l irass, Poa nemoralis. This plantation was an
ibjectionable feature, as it darkened the rooms
of the house and bred swarms of flies. In front
of the house was a narrow border, 3 feet wide, in
which grew the true old China Rose, which
flowered but once in a season, the flowers fall¬
ing to pieces almost as soon as opened, great
hrubby Fuchsias which reached nearly to the
:op of the house, and Rosemary. This border
>ras edged with Sea Pink or Thrift, and within
:hat a line of double Daisies, red, white, and
den and Chickens in mixture. The rest was
illed with hardy dwarf plants of which I can
>uly remember Polyauthuses (pink and deep
rimson), single Primroses, and Auriculas (purple,
flack, and yellow’). Next came a wide gravel
vith ; from this path a border, 14 feet wide, ran
•ound the east, west, and south sides, with a
gravel path between it and the rest of the
ranlen. The middle division had an oval lawn
□ the centre with a path round it, and a large
>ed on each side between it and the path which
wunded the wall borders. These large beds
iad in them one or two Apple trees, three choice
lollies in each, a Mock Orange, a Laburnum,
•ue or two small-growing Lilacs, and a few
loses : the spaces between these was filled with
lardy plants. The last division was the kitchen
:arden, separated from the flowers by a hedge,
"ho south wall border was filled with trees
*nd shade-loving plants. The east and west
rail borders, where they faced the flower
arden, were divided into 7-feet beds by narrow
•aths. These beds were mostly stocked with
loriata’ flowers—Pinks, Carnations, Primroses,
rulipe, Auriculas, Polyanthuses, Ranunculi. A
ew beds were filled with annuals and biennials.
The walls were occupied with fruit trees, and
he borders, where they faced the kitchen
;arden, were occupied by Raspberries, Straw¬
berries, Rhubarb, and salads. The shrubs and
rees in the two large beds were so arranged as
o hide the kitchen garden, and most of the
iorista’ flower borders, from the windows of the
louse.

To have no lawn on at least one side of the
louse in a small garden, the whole space being
iccupied by flowers, would certainly allow of
(reat masses of hardy flowers being planted in

arge beds.

In a large garden wide turf walks could be
laid down, and a narrow walk of hard gravel
next the beds; the Grass could be allowed to
grow on the gravel so as to hide its presence, so
that it would remain only a convenience for
wheelbarrow traffic. J. D.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(miscellaneous. )

11515.— Fowls trespassing’. —“ Vexed ”
wants to know how to keep fowls out of his
neadow. Let him try the following plan:
' hen he, or someone who can run fast, sees the
fcns in the field, get a whip with a good crack-
r *~ sash cord on, go into the field with it as
ituokly and quietly as possible, between the hens
ia 'j their home, commence cracking the whip
*3d run the hens from home, untu you have
•Ringed their ramble of pleasure into a retreat
despair. Repeat this as often as required,
*wck will not be often if it is done well.—

7"* there are a great many fowls or the meadow
wall one they will not do much harm. If they are really
^Jbann you must tell your neighbour that he must

keep his fowls from going in the meadow, and if he
neglects to do so, prosecute him for damages.—J. D. E.

11617.— Lime for land.— Gas lime does best to mix
with sods, &c., and the ordinary’ quicklime for putting on
the ground. It is excellent forday soils. Twenty bushels
of slackened lime is a good dressing for thirty rods of clay
soil.—J. D. E.

11522.—Cucumbers rotting off.—If the plants aro
healthy thore is no reason why they should not fruit.
Probably the temperature is not high enough. It ought to
be about 05° at night. Thin out the shoots and leaves ; if
these are crowded the fruit docs not swell well. The bed ,
ought to have bottom heat.—J. D. E.

11618.— Planting out Camellias.— The large plant
in a 12-inch pot may be planted out at once. The back
wall of a cool greenhouse is a good place for it. This is a
good time to plant them out as they have their whole
season In which to establish themselves. They will do
well either in loam or peat, or a mixture of both.— J. D. E.

G. S.— You may probably get the book from the author,

Mr. J. Simpson, Wortlcy Hall Gardens, Sheffield.- J.

Simkin. —At any good seed warehouse.- F. //.—Wo

have already given ongravings and exhaustive articles on
the subject named, ho doubt wc shall have other articles

on the subject before long.- Atherstone Panties.—V cry

well worth growing, but not sufficiently distinct, we think,

to be worth naming.- Wm. G. //.—The Polyanthus was

too poor and dried up for us to judge of its merits.

Names Of plants.—“ Carlow Sule ."— Sparmannia

africana.- W. R. T.— Polygala dalmaisiana.- Kirkly.

—Ljthospermum prostratrum- L. Attenborough.. —Rose,

Catherine Mermct.- Miss B.— Abutilon vitifolium.-

Mrs. Reid. —1, Scilla nutans; 2, S. campauulata ; 4,
Send when in flower ; 6, Saxifraga granulata fl. pi. ; 6,

Veronica gentianoides.- Mrs. Gray.— Ornithogalum

umbellatum.- E. M.— Appears to be a species of

Euonvmus. Please send when more fully developed.-

E. L. B. S.— Amelanchier Botryapium.- S. M.— 1,

Diplacus glutinosus ; 2, Tropjeolum Lobbianum; 3, Not a
Cyperus but a species of Luzula ; 4, Agatinea ccelestis.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents. — A ll communications
for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the pajwr only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any noni
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the nuinber and title of the query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity oj
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they arc received. Queries not
ansiecred should be sent to us again.

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when good
sped mens are sent. We do not u ndertaks to name varieties
of florists' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas,
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist who
has the means of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to name should always
accompany the parcel.

11674. — Cucumbers not swelling. —I havo a
Cucumber house containing a dozen plants, which grew well
till about a fortnight ago and produced nico Cucumbers,
but since then the young fruit have tumod yellow and died
off. I keep the house at a temperature of 70° to 80°. I
should be glad if some reader would give me a little infor¬
mation os to the cause of the Cucumbers not coming for¬
ward.—G. P.

11575.—Clematis dying off— What is the cause of
this passi flora cerulea dying ? I observed a brown patch
in the wood only a few days ago, but then all the young
growth beyond it was right. All n plump and unbruised.
I have had our large plant of Clematis lanuginosa, that died
off in the same manner down to the shank, after good-
sized buds had been formed ; and a largo branch of C. M.
Van Houtte, some 10 feet long also, in neither of which
cases could I find a cause. All in an unheated glasshouse.
—J. C.

11570.— Piccalilly.— Will some reader oblige me with a
recipe for making the above. I understand preparing
vegetables for pickling, but do not know the ingredients
and quantities for making Piccalilly. I have hitherto
bought, but And the quality varies much even by the same
maker ; lurther, I note that some of the vegetables used
have a suspicious green colour, particularly the onions.—
Omega.

11677.— Violets. —Will some person kindly give a few
hints as to forming a Violet bed. I have a number of roots
in the garden and have selected the best place to transfer
them to. What Is the best time to remove them and how
should I treat them in order that. I may have a good bed
next spring?— Watford.

11578.— Belladonna Lilies. — Will someone be so
good as to give some hints as to how to flower Belladonna
Lilies. I know of three ladies who cannot succeed in doing
so. Outdoors they multiply—under glass they dwindle.
Can they be flowered outdoors in limestone soil with clav
subsoil, and if so what situation ?— Gertrude.

11679.— Anemones from seed. —Would Mr. C.
Wolly Dod (Llandudno) kindly say where tho seed of
Anemone rivularis may be procured, and If A. Robinsoniana
can be had from seed, and if so, where sold ?— A Lover of
Anemones.

11 680.— Propagating the Mezereon.— Will any¬
one tell me how to strike cuttings of the pink Mezereon,
and what time is the best to do so ?—Gertrude.

11681. —Agapanthus.—Should these plants when put
>ut of doors for blooming be placed in pans of water?—
F. C.

so ? or is it a fungus growing on the wood, os it is coloured
through?—R. F. S.,

11583.— Petunias.— A collector of Petunias would like
the names of any new, largo, remarkable Petunias (has all
C.irter’s best). Also of the largest, handsomest Fuchsias
with double white and double dark corollas, and names
Of handsome, showy plant for cool gre< nhouse (not
geraniums).—P etunias.

11584. —Flowers turning pale.-Haviug a place in
Anglesea, N. Wales, with slaty soil, I find all dark-coloured
Roses und other flowers, red or blue, turn quickly to a pule
pink, weak and washy. What is the reason ? and can a
remedy, chemical or otherwise, be applied ?—B. S.

11685.— Growing Fritillarias.— What is the best
method of growing Fritillaria meleagr s ? I have bulbs of
Recurva, Tristis, Liliacea, Thunbergi, and others. Thev
are in a west border, each in a sunk pot, as some of the
bulbs are very small, and might easily be lost; but thev
seem delicate and have flowered poorly. The soil is good -
| Vicar.

[ 11580.—Waste paper as manure.—I have heard
that waste (printed) paper has some quality useful in a
manure heap, and shall be glad to know if such be the

COSO.—SUBSCRIBER.

11587.— Black mould on seed pans.— Could any¬
one give me Information as to the cause of blaek mould
forming on the surface of seed pans? The compost is w**ll
decayed manure, sand, and loam well sifted. Last vear 1
used an addition of leaf-mould and peat; but, thinking it
might be the cause of the mould, I left it aside this year
I have lost several boxes of seed through it. The more
carefully the compost is prepared the worse the mould
seems. Nothing can grow through it, as it forms black
hairy, sticky surface. Any information will greatly oblige
—An Anxious Inquirer.

11588.—Sea shells.— Can anyone tell me what Is the
best thing to remove the crust from shells, and how to
polish them ?—A Constant Reader.

11589. -Cutting pebbles. -Can anyone tell me the
proper way of cuttingpebbles and where I may procure the
necessary tools ?—A Constant Reader.

, « 1 ^ 90 :T, Hardy Palms- —Will some correspondent
kindly tell me the best method of keeping hardy Palms
healthy and preventing decay at the end of the" leaves *
Any information will oblige— Rusticds.

11591.— Liquid manure.— The only liquid manure I
can get is of a very' simple kind, viz., fresh horse droppings
which stand in water for twenty-four hours. Isthismixture
—a dark brown-suitable for Roses, Chrysanthemums, and
Dahlias ?— Roatii.

HM2.— Propagating Genistas.— I saw a question
asked some time since, how to propagate Genistas Not
having seen any answer I shall be glad to know if it can be
done and how ?— Snowdon.

11593.— Water Melons.— Can any reader who has
crown Water Melons give me any advice how to grow them *
Will they grow in the open like Pumpkins ? Do thev re¬
quire glass ? I have a greenhouse 18 feet by 9 feet which I
make no use of in summer, with heat if required. Which
would be my safest plan to get a good crop ?— Cantab.

11594.— Cleaning flower pots.— How can I keep
flower pots in a greenhouse from becoming green. Is there
anything that the pots can be washed in which will pro¬
vent it?—M anchester.

11595.— Chrysanthemums in pots.— I have two
pots of Yellow Pompone Chrysanthemums, very healthv
lull of shoots about 3 inches high. How can I grow then!
so as to take them indoors when in flower? Last year as
soon as taken in they dried up and became quite unsightly
though watered and attended to. I have no greenhouse —
Roatii.

11506.— Indian bulbs and Orchids. -Will anyone
kindly tell me the best way to pack Indian bulbs to send
to England? Also, how should Indian Orchids be grown
what heat do they require, &c. ? If someone will give me
information on this subject I shall be much obliged —
Yellow Pansy.

11597.— Crown Imperials not blooming.— What
is the reason my Crown Imperials did not flower this year?
They came up but not very strong, like offshoots from the
bulbs that flowered last year. The new bulbs planted last
year flowered all right. Should thev be lifted after
flowering?—R. F. C.

11598. — Plants fading in conservatory — I
should bo glad to get a suggestion for the management ot
my conservatory’. We cannot get flowers to grow in it or
even to continue in health for more than she or seven duvs •
the leaves drop, and the flowers fade. We thought the
roots were too dry, and we put the pots on ashes and
then on cocoanut fibre, but without satisfactory result *
we gave more top ventilation, as well as bottom—still the
same. The plants are brought from n glasshouso where
the heat is but moderate, and only last about a week. The
aspect is south, a thick blind shields from too hot sun *
there is very little gas used in the drawing-room, to which

the conservatory is attached when tho door Is shut_ An-

Old Reader.

POULTRY.

POULTRY NOTES FOR JUNE.

At last wo are favoured with prolonged sun¬
shine. There is nothing which tends to retard
the growth of chickens more than cold, dry
weather. The chickens should be all hatched
now, although it may be advisable to still set a
hen or two, to get them to moult properly and
quickly. This is necessary with old hens kept
for exhibition, otherwise they will moult very
late and very irregularly, and not be fit for the
show-pen till the exhibition season is over,
__ _ w , , . , which extends from September to January

inclusive. Hene of the incubating breeds shonM

♦bov r»nll If •* T.inrht,inner WVwl ” and iu annnAeod *y\ Kn ns,* DC allOWCd tO bring IOrth »t least One DrOO(l

every year, as it tends to kelap them in good

they call it “ Lightning Wood,” and is supposed to be por
tioris of trees which have been struck by lightning. Is it

Digitized by

Got >gle

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

u 1/J.j.i/X/iJ/iy f x«/r tr

_£. -L/JL/ U UJ. -LV%JJ- JL XVX/

L-

AOO*.

health, and nature requires that they should hens of a sitting variety lay as many eggs in the ( allow a hive to contain less than twenty pound;
have a rest from laying. Many will be troubled twelve months as those of a non-sitting breed. j of stores by the middle of October, making up
now with broody hens, and will not know what Itiscertainthattheformerarehardierin all case3, | to that weight by feeding where necessary,
to do with them. Very little is got by selling and make up, to a great extent, in winter laying : Had “ Ignorance,” on first discovering his beet

them, for they are lean, and poultry dealers what they lose in summer through broodi- j in a dying state, carefully poured a little warn

will not have broody hens unless at a very ness, whereas the non-sitters are often idle as syrup between the combs, he would have been

low rigure. To place them under a water tap, regards egg production for three months at a surprised and delighted at the effect. In a lew

or thrusting a f eather through their nostrils, stretch in winter time. I do not think there is I minutes the dying bees would have revived to
are cruel proceedings, and generally fail in their a better kind than the Brahma, either light or activity, and many of those apparently dead
object. The best plan, and one which I adopted dark, or a cross between it and either the restored to animation ; and had this been
some years ago myself, was this:—Get an Dorking, Houdan, or Malay, for an ex posed ! followed up with daily feeding for a fortnight all
ordinary chicken coop or box with the front farm; the Malay especially, if a good table j would have been well. The combs being black
sparred off. Place the broody hen in this, and fowl be wanted. Barn-door fowls can never (consequently old), it will be safer to put the
set the box or coop down in the most public prove profitable in the long run, and a Brahma, J swarm in a new hive, and feed for the first
place, where all the other hens can be seen, or a first cross from it, will not get broody half week or ten days.—S. S. G., BoxirorLh.]

Remove in a day to another place, and so often as a bird produced from seven or eight Uniting Swarms. _Having six frame hire

this will be all that is required to cure her of different kinds, as barn-doors invariably are. will someone kindly inform me how to act when
the hatching fever. Cochins are the most Occasional cessation of laying will of course they swarm. I do not want, as each swarm
difficult to cure; but see for a day or two that happen when broodiness comes on ; but, on comes out, to put them into separate hives;but
they have only the bare earth to ait on, the other hand, the birds will be very hardy, I suppose the swarms come, say, at an interval of
ami you will be rewarded with success, and the supply of eggs in winter sure, I a fortnight, can they be united, and three
Early hatched chickens should now be provided the pullets arc hatched early in the 1 swarms put into one hive, and which would be

weeded down, the cockerels fattened off as spring and properly looked after. These ad- the best plan to do it? _Redcap. [Two or

quickly as possible, and one or two of the best vantages over the non-sitting varieties ought to three swarms can be easily united, althougi
retained for breeding. The younger chickens weigh against the trouble and annoyance of they may have issued at long intervals. Sup
must be seen to, and their coops kept curing broodiness. But broodiness is very simple I posing one swarm to be already hived, others
scrupulously clean ; feed them often on good if taken in hand at once, as the birds can be : ma y be joined to it, by shaking them from the
sound food, remembering always when giving confined, a dozen together, if necessary, in some J hiving skep on to a* sheet in front of the hive
soft food to give it crumbly, and not in a sloppy outhouse. Such a building must be devoid ' (the front being propped up a little), which
state, which often causes diarrhoea. Only give of all semblance to a nest, and without roost, they will quickly enter, always taking the
as much food as the birds will eat while you are Let the birds be fed sparingly on low diet, precaution of first sprinkling both lots of befc
standing beside them ; allow not a particle to and in a week or ten days a cure will be effected, w ith thin syrup scented with peppermint, to
remain, which the sun will turn sour, and and they may be returned to their usual prevent fighting^ all success in uniting depend
which if eaten by the chicks would throw them haunts to recommence laying. Plymouth j n g upon the bees having the same scent, and
back a fortnight. The water given must be Rocks or Dominiques are very hardy, and capital is more easily performed in the evening. ’ The
kept out of the sun, so that it may be cool ; winter layers. Whatever breed be kept, they queens will fight, and one will be destroyed, s>
shelter also, in the shape of some sort of a roof, must be well housed, and not allowed to roost in that if it be wished to retain the one with the
should be provided for the chickens. any barn or outhouse which suits their fancy, swarm already hived, the queen with the nev

If eggs are to be preserved for winter use, it whereby they become a prey to night swarm must be searched for, and removed wh&

is now time to begin. Here are a few of the marauders. Good laying accommodation should the bees are entering the hive._S. S. G.,

modes recommended : -Rub the eggs over with also be provided, or a lot of the eggs will be Boxworth.]

lard or oil, so as to close up the pores of the lost in consequence of the hens making nests -

shell to prevent the loss of the internal mois- on their own account in all parts of the farm

ture by evaporation, and pack in bran in air- buildings and hedgerows. Another mistake HOUSEHOLD.

tight jars. often made in poultry keeping on a farm is to . -

Another method is to dissolve quicklime in breed from the same stock year after year. Rice mould With stewed Rhubarb -
water, and add a little cream of tartar. Putin Fresh blood must be introduced occasionally Take 4 ounces Carolina rice and place in »
as laid, and see that the water covers the eggs, in the shape of a few vigorous cockerels from brown or white jar with lid, add sugar to taste,
The French method is to varnish the eggs some other yard. All birds should be killed off and the grated peel of a fresh Lemon. Puttbe
with varnish of linseed oil and beeswax. All after attaining the age of two years. They lid on the jar, place the jar in a saucepan half
have the same object in view—to close up the only eat their heads off after that age, whilst LLed with boiling water, and keep boiling
pores to prevent evaporation. broodiness increases with a hen the older she slowly until the rice feels quite soft; then put tk

Chickens during the hot weather are some- gets, and is more difficult to cure. A. j rice into a mould, and with a spoon press it lightly,

times troubled with diarrhoea. When this is Sitting fowls.— Can anyone give me any information 8,3 to take the form of the mould. When

noticed mix a little powdered chalk in their soft M to th® best position in which to place fowls for sitting ? thoroughly cold turn out and serve. To stew
food If milk is ffiven it must be criven swpet 8hould the >’ b , e set on hay or straw in the ordinary lavinv the Rhubarb Put into a copper or enamelled
, ii miiK is given it muse oe given sweet ne sts, or should they havo a nest made of earth or sifted ^ nppmn half a nnnnd of lnrrm imrar alone
and not allowed to stand in the sun. All ashes? and. further, should the nest be on the ground or ^ halt * pound ot lump sugar, along

drinking and feeding utensils must be regularly raised a few inches from it ?—P. R. P. with three-quarters of a pint of water : bring

washed and cleaned, and during the hot part of - ^ ^he boil. Take 2 pounds of Rhubarb,

the day the birds must be kept as cool as BEES cut off the tops and bottoms, wipe with a clean

possible. To get large birds, feed regularly, _ ' towel, but do not peel it. Then cut the Rbu

giving soft food, amongst which a good Bees dying*.— Having a small garden in the barb in pieces about 1£ inches in length, pUj*
sprinkling of pure bone dust has been country, and wishing to try bee-keeping, I, the pieces in the boiling liquid, and stew slovlr
mixed. A sliffht feed at. mirl.rl/iv nf Q nv Durchased a stock hive about the end of Jnlv until soft, but on no account allow them to

HOUSEHOLD.

Rice mould with stewed Rhubarb -

with three-quarters of a pint of water: bring
it to the boil. Take 2 pounds of Rhubarb,
cut off the tops and bottoms, wipe with a clean
towel, but do not peel it. Then cut the Rb»

lit feed at mid-day of a ny purchased a stock hive about the end of tjuly until soft, but on no account allow'

! they go to roost of good sound last year. It was in a common straw skep. break. Rhubarb requires such a sho

scraps, and before they go to roost of good sound last year. It was in a common straw skep. I break. Rhubarb requires such a short time to
grain, should be given. If no grass run, Not knowing how to use the sugar cake, I J c °°k that it is better to w'atch it, and lift out
fresh green food must be supplied, and the began feeding with sugar syrup, which I con- the pieces as they become tender. A flat,
greatest care taken not to let any lie in the run tinued to do till the end of October, and about i shallow pan is best for this purpose. If a small
to decay. Care should be taken of vermin, and the end of February the bees began to come out P an should be used, only cook a few pieces at a
the nests should be kept well sprinkled with on good days, when I resumed the feeding with time, as otherw ise the Rhubarb would go to
sulphur or insect-destroying powder, changing syrup, which was continued till the middle of a mash, and would not look nice. A

the straw often. If the house-roosts are very bad April, when I was advised to stop the feeding. | drops of cochineal added to the sugar

with fleas, have them cleaned and well sprinkled The bees, up till the end of April, were strong wa -ter improves the colour. You must not

wffth carbolic acid. and healthy, and seemed likely to do well, but P u ^ a La on the saucepan w'hile cooking.

It has been shown that there is a connection about the beginning of May I observed that I y h? n taking the pieces of Rhubarb from the

between vermin of the louse species and gapes, there was something w r rong. I had not seen liquid, use a spoon ; lift each piece separately',
therefore see that the chickens do not roost in them out for a day or two, and attributed that an d place them upon a sieve to drain. Boil
the old nests or in any dirty place. The very to the stormy weather we had, but on the 4th down the liquid quickly until reduced to hal* I
greatest care as to cleanliness is necessary during of May I saw some of them crawling from the the quantity ; pour into a basin and put aside
the warm months, when the poultry yard is so hive and dropping from the landing-board to until cold. When wanted, turn out the rice
densely populated, and so little extra labour is the ground, which was strewn with them. I i n ^° a large crystal or other dish ; place the
expended. The extra stock will amply repay immediately turned up the skep, which I found Rhubarb neatly round, and strain the liquid
for this trouble. Psyche. well filled with comb and bees, but the bees on to the Rhubarb only. If carefully done,

_ were all dead or dying. I may just mention this is a vei T pretty dish, and comes in well *t

that the combs were very black. Could any of this time of the year. You will find the appear

Farmyard poultry.— -Non-sitting varieties your bee-keeping correspondents give me a hint ance and taste of this sweet greatly improved
of fowls are unfortunately inclined to be delicate as to the probable cause of my misfortune? by switching up in a baain until quite stiff half-
as compared with the sitting varieties, and con- Also, would it do to put a young swarm into P* nt °f double cream. This should be placed
sequently are ill-adapted for a farm ; and, more- the old combs, or would it be better to start roun d the Rhubarb in little rough-looking
over, although very prolific in eggs during the afresh ?— Ignorance. i heaps.

genial months of the year, are not, generally [The spring feeding was, unfortunately, dis- ! Another way to make a mould of
speaking, good winter layers. 1 he former do continued too soon. The consumption of stores rice. —Cook the rice as above. When done,
not lay continuously day after clay, and week is very great throughout the early spring, stir in one ounce of fresh butter; beat three
after week, but take a rest now and again the owing to tne large increase of population ; and fresh eggs ten minutes, add to the rice. Butter
same as the others, although not for the purpose during April this year very little natural food a mould, dredge in some castor sugar, press the
°* 1 aclibation ; and 1 am of opinion, providing was obtained, consequently only well-pro- 1 rice into the mould, and bake in the oven half
the hens are properly managed when broody, visioned stocks were able to hold out. The an hour ; turn out, and serve with custard
and quickly cured, which is easily done, that great secret of successful wintering is never to sauce, or hot Rhubarb cooked as above.

Original from

break. Rhubarb requires such a short time to
cook that it is better to watch it, and lift out

Digitized fr.

Gougle

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS A1
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

JUNE 7 , 1884.

No. 274.

1 1

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

AQUILEGIAS (COLUMBINES),
is is a most valuable family of plants
the garden, often beautiful in habit of
.nt, colour, and form of flower. It is
rthern genus, being widely distributed over
• northern and mountain regions of Europe,
ia, and America. The Columbines rank
ongst the next successional flowers to those
it belong purely to the spring months—their
Bering period extending throughout May and
ne. Among them may be found great variety
the way of colour—white, rose, buff, blue,

1 purple, and also stripes and intermediate
des even in the same flower. Then amongst
American kinds we have yellow, orange,

1 scarlet, and most delicate shades of blue,
iides colour, too, there is also considerable
•iation in the shape of the flowers. In some
petals are reduplicated, and in the very
ible forms of our common garden Columbine,
removing one of the five petals, which are
ally distinguished by the brighter colour and
*ost invariably by the presence of a spur-like
>tndage, it will be found that a series of from
to a dozen, or even more, petals are beauti-
y arranged one inside the other,
he Columbines are frequently of greater
ture than most of the plants strictly termed
ine, but are, nevertheless, true alpine plants,
i among the most singularly beautiful of the
‘.s. \\ here single plants of the wild form of

common Columbine are met with in the open
ses and by the mountain streamlets in
rthern England, it looks a queen among the
er flowers of the region. The blue, and blue
l white alpine kinds, living in the high bush'
ces in the Alps and Pyrenees, and, indeed,
all European and North Asian mountain
ins, are among the fairest of all flowers,
inbing the sunny hills of the sierras in Cali-
nia one meets with a large scarlet Columbine
luilegia eximia) that has the vigour of a Lily

i the grace of a Fuchsia ; and in the moun-
as above Salt Lake City, in Utah, and on
ny others in the Rocky Mountain region,
re is the Rocky Mountain Columbine (A.
rulea), with its long and slender spurs and
ely cool tints in its erect flowers. Indeed,
re is no family that has a wider share in
'ining the mountains. The finer Columbines

to the smaller alpine flowers what the
dies are to the hill shrubs. Some of the
me species, however, are much smaller

ii those commonly grown, as, for example,
Pyrenean Columbine. Although our cottage

dens are alive with Columbines in much
•uty of colour in early summer, there is some
iculty experienced in cultivating the rarer
ine varieties. Hence such highly-valued
ids as the Altaian Columbine (A. glandulosa),
Alpine Columbine (A. alpina), are too rarely
n flowering well in gardens, and frequently
appear where introduced. They require
efully planting in free sandy or gritty,
mgh always moist, ground, and in well-
imed ledges in the rock garden, mainly in
: shady positions or northern exposures.

rare Columbines, however, fail to form
luring tufts in our gardens, and where this is
} case they must be raised from seed as fre-
eatiy as good seed can be got. It is the
•me character of the home of many of the
•unibines which makes the culture of some of
- IoTely kinds so uncertain, and which causes
: ® to thrive so well in the north of Scotland

*n they fail in our ordinary dry garden

Lien.

0 those familiar with the vigour of our
union garden Columbine it must appear
riD ge that there should be any difficulty in
cultivation of the various species, and yet
J punts are more capricious; take, for in-
U the charming A. glandulosa, grown like
Forres, in Scotland, and which is so
-it-uved and unsatisfactory in most gardens.

' r u this species an exception ; it is cha-
of all the mountain species. Let us

for a moment examine the conditions under
which they naturally grow, and possibly we
may get some clue to those conditions essential
to success. Their natural habitat is often on
the banks of mountain streams and moist slo]
or ledges, where, on deposits of gradua
accumulated rich alluvial soil, their roots find
the special nourishment they require with
feet drainage ; and no doubt the shelter of their
position, supplemented by the overhanging
branches and adjacent vegetation, helps to pro
tect their young spring growth, as on its pro
tection hinges the vigour of the summer bloom.
Mr. Whittaker, of Morelev, near Derby, has
been very successful with both A. glandulosa
and the blue variety of A. leptoceras, and he
told Mr. Niven that he grows them in
thoroughly-drained, deep, nch, alluvial loam
soil ; the same were the conditions of Mr.
G rigor’s success.

Vlr. Brockbank speaks hopefully of growing
the finer kinds from seed. He says : “I attri

Rocky Mountain Columbine (Aquilegia ccerulea).

bute failures to plants set by nurserymen in
very small pots. I believe it will be found
that you can never get up a good stock of Aquile-
gias by purchase. The proper way is to grow
your own from seed. Sow in shallow
wooden trays, or in pots, and grow the plants
on carefully in a cold frame. When the seed¬
lings are sufficiently large, prick them out into
the places wherein you wish them to grow—
some in pots and some in the garden—and
plant them in various situations, here in the
shade and there in the open, so as to have as
many chances of success with them as possible.
We always plant three plants in a triangle,
inches apart, so that any group can readily be
taken up and potted, if we wish it. Once
planted, leave them alone ever afterwards, or if
you move them, take up a large ball of earth
with them, so as not to loosen the soil about the
roots more than can be helped. When the
plants have flowered and the seed has ripened,
my practice is to gather some for future sowing
and to scatter the rest around the plant, raking
the soil lightly first, and shaking the seed out
of the pods every three or four days. From the
seed thus scattered young plants come up by
hundreds, often as thick as a mat, and may be
transplanted, when suitably grown, into proper
situations. In this way we have here abundance

Digitized b‘

Google

of Columbines, and amongst these plenty of A.
glandulosa self-sown, and as strong and hardy
as any.” Further details as to culture and
position will be found under the various moro
important kinds.

Mr. J. C. Niven suggests that ail the Colum¬
bines, except the common one, should be looked
upon as biennials rather than good persistent
perennials. The seeds should be sown early in
spring, and the young plants pricked out into
pans or into an old garden frame as soon as they
are fit to handle, removing them early in
August to their permanent positions ; select a
cloudy day for the work, and give them a little
artificial shading for a few days. Carry out the
same process year after year, the old plants
being discarded after flowering. Any attempt
at dividing the old roots is usually attended
with a very small amount of success. There
are, however, instances, especially on light
soils and hilly districts, where several of them
remain good for years.

Columbines in pots. —According to a writer
in the Field, few who have never grown these
and other similar hardy plants in pots can
realise how fresh and beautiful they are in
spring in a cool house. They may be raised
from seed when ripe ; and although the seed¬
lings may vary a little in colour and habit, yet
that scarcely detracts from their value. Sow
thinly in light sandy soil, place the seed pots
or pans in a close frame, prick off when large
enough, and, finally, pot into single pots and
shift on during the summer into 6-inch pots,
standing the pots on a coal ash-bed—or, better
still, plunging them in the ashes to save
watering. At the approach of cold weather
move them into a cold frame, and if the
frost is very severe, lay some litter over the
;lass to keep the frost from breaking the pots.
They are not near so much trouble to grow as
some things cultivated in pots for decorating
the cool greenhouse and to produce flowers for
cutting at this season, and they are very beau¬
tiful for both purposes.

A. alpina (Alpine Columbine).—This plant,
widely distributed over the higher parts of the
Alps of Europe, is a good addition to the
choice collection of alpine plants. The stems
rise from less than 1 foot to more than 2 feet
high, bearing showy blue flowers, and leaves
deeply divided into linear lobes. There is a
lovely variety with a white centre to the flower,
which, in consequence of its exquisite tones of
colour, is certain to be preferred, and many will
say they have not got the “ true ” plant if they
►ossess only the variety with blue flowers. It
bes not require any very particular care in
culture, but should have a place among the
taller ornaments of the rock work, and be
planted in a rather moist and sheltered, but not
shady, spot, in deep sandy loam or peat. It may
be increased by seed or division. In moist
districts, and in good free soil, it will prove a
first-class border plant; distinguished from A.
vulgaris by the stamens being longer than the
petals, ana by its larger flowers.

A. californicA (Californian Columbine).—One
of the strongest growers of the American species.

The tendency of the plant is to produce one
bold woody stem, which, under favourable con¬
ditions, will rise to the height of 3 feet; the
sepals are orange-coloured and blunt-pointed,
being closely adpressed to the petals, which
are also blunt; they give one the idea that they
had been trimmed round with a pair of scissors ;
hence the appropriateness of one of the specific
terms, truncata. The spurs are long, bright
orange, more attenuated than in Skinner’s
Columbine, but to appreciate the full beauty of
the flower it must be turned up from its natu¬
rally pendant position ; then the beautiful shell¬
like arrangement of the petals becomes at once
visible, the bright yellow marginal line gradu¬
ally shading off into deep orange. The seeds of
this species should be carefully looked after, as,
having once blossomed, the old plant is liable to
perish. I have never been disappointed with
the seedlings diverging from their parent type

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

150

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[June 7,1884

in character. —A. eximia. A. truncata.

—This plant thrives best on a deep sandy
loam and moist.—J. C. N.

A. canadensis (Canadian Columbine).—This
was once our only New World Columbine,
having been introduced from Virginia by the
younger Tradescant. It may be taken as the
type of the scarlet-orange and yellow group.
The flowers are smaller than the Western
American kinds; this, however, is amply
compensated for by the brilliancy of the
scarlet colour of the sepals, and the erect
somewhat capitate spurs, and the bright
yellow of the petals. The true A. canadensis
is a slender grower, scarcely exceeding 1 foot

portant pla
perennials (

Siberian Columbine (Aquilegia sibirica).

in height, with sharply-notched irregularly-
ternate leaves. As seen in cultivation it is
often a cross, with an increased vigour of
growth and a decreased brilliancy of colour.
Easily raised from seed. It is not so valuable
since the introduction of the nobler American
species, but it is always a free grower. There
is a yellow form. It is a plant for borders or the
shrubbery, for placing here and there among
dwarf shrubs ami plants in the rougher parts of
the rock garden, but cannot be included among
the very best species. Writing of this species,
Mr. Falconer says : “To see it at its best you
should see it among the rocks. The Canada
Columbine grows in abundance in our woods and
always in high rocky places ; there it springs
from the narrowest chink, a little bush of leaves
and flowers, or maybe in an earthy mat upon
a rock you find a colony of Columbines, Virginian
Saxifrages, and pale Corydalis; they usually
grow together.”

A. chrysantha (Golden Columbine).—This is
a very tail, vigorous, and beautiful species, last¬
ing on many soils as a good perennial where the
other species perish. This plant was at first, by
persons who look at herbarium distinctions only,
erroneously supposed to be a variety of the
Rocky Mountain Columbine, and named such
by Torrey and Gray. After cultivating the
plant, however, for several years, and compar¬
ing it In a living state with the Rocky Mountain
Columbine (A. ccerulea), Dr. Gray described it
as a new species, A. chrysantha. It is one of
those cases in which other than purely botanical
characters have weight; but it also differs in the
flowers being not nearly so much distended as
in A. coerulea, and the plant is far more robust.
The plant comes from a different geographical
range, grows taller, flowers nearly a month later,
and blooms for two months continuously ; these
peculiarities, added to its full yellow colour,
seem to warrant it to rank as a species. Like
the Rocky Mountain Columbine, it has a very
long and slender spur, often over 2 inches in
length. It is perfectly hardy, more so than the
Rocky Mountain species. It thrives even on the
stiff clay soils north of London, and enjoys wet,
though it is none the less free in more ha
situations. It comes true from seed, whicl
most safely raised under glass, and pricked out
carefully whpTTyoung. Attaining a height of
D 4 feet undel good V ltnfej Jh becomes an im

»lant for the centre of a bed of the finer |
perennials or for a group in the properly arranged
mixed border. Should seedlings from it prove
crossed with inferior kinds, seed must be obtained
from wild plants, which cannot be difficult
through the American houses. It would be a
great pity if such a distinct, beautiful, and
hardy plant should degenerate in our gardens.

A. ccerulea (Rocky Mountain Columbine).—
Beautiful as it is distinct, the spurs of the flower
almost as slender as a thread, a couple of inches
long, with a tendency to twist round each other,
and with green tips. But it is in the blue and white
erect flower that the beauty lies, the effect being
even better than in the blue and white form of
the alpine Columbine. It is a hardy herbaceous
plant, flowers rather early in summer, continu¬
ing a long time in flower. I have seen it flower¬
ing freely on light soil in an exposed spot in
Suffolk so late as September. It grows about
from 12 inches to 15 inches high, and is worthy
of the choicest position on the rock garden, and
is suitable for the front margin of the choice
mixed border, where the soil is sandy and deep,
and not too wet in winter. Unlike the Golden
Columbine, it is not a true perennial on many
soils, though a better report in this respect
comes from the cool hill gardens. To get strong,
healthy plants that will flower freely, seeds of
this kind should be sown annually, and treated
after the manner of biennials, as it rarely does
well after standing the second year, and in many
cases dies out altogether at or before that time.
The flowers are, however, so lovely and so use¬
ful for cutting, that it is deserving of any amount
of trouble and attention to have it in good con¬
dition, a result which can only be attained by
treating it in the manner just indicated. All
the Columbines delight in a deep, rich, sandy
soil, where they can find plenty of moisture
below for their roots, and as they make their
growth early, the friendly shelter of shrubs or
rock to keep off cold cutting winds and frosts is
of use, if not too near to rob them or restrict
their root room.

This is one of the many good plants which
deserve a home in the nursery department, so to
say. It deserves a choice little bed to itself,
from which its lovely flowers could be gathered
in abundance for cutting, and plants obtained for
the rock garden or choice borders. A coating
of 2 inches of half-rotten leaves or other conve¬
nient material in summer would assist the bloom.

A native of the Altai Mountains, and one of tk
most desirable kinds for the rook garden or
select border, in well-drained, deep, sandy i '
Increased by seed and by very careful did
of the fleshy roots, when the plant is a
leaf. If divided when it is at rest, thei
are almost certain to perish, at least on
soils.

The Forres Nurseries, in Morayshire, 1
long been famous for the successful growl
this plant; it has no special care there, and t
is no trade secret abi'ut the treatment, whr
entirely in the open air. The soil is de#ci
as “ a rich, mellow earth, partaking a litt]
bog or peat earth, and rather cool and i

nadensis.

Golden Columbine (Aquilegia chrysantha).

The seed is best sown as soon as may be after it
is ripe, in cool frames near the glass, or in rough
boxes in cool frames. With abundance of fresh
seed there will be no difficulty in raising it in
fine beds of soil in the open air, protecting the
beds from birds or slugs, but the seed is usually
too precious to risk in the open air.

A. olandulosa (AltaianMountain Columbine).
—This is a very beautiful species with handsome
blue and white flowers and a tufted habit. Flowers
in early summer—a fine blue, with the tips of
the petals creamy-white, the spur curved back¬
wards towards the stalk, the sepals dark blue, large
and nearly oval, with a long footstalk. The upper

than otherwise.” It flowers the year
Bowing, and when full grown it is bnpatis:|
of removal, like most Columbines, but
transplanted when more than two years
continues to flower for at least five or su
sometimes for more. Those who can g
seed of this fine plant will do well to
with care, and plant out when very you
well-prepared beds of moist, deep peaty, o
soil, putting some of the plant3 in a Uuim—
or cool position. It would be well also w aj
some seeds where the plants are to remain, »
in various other ways to try and overcome w
difficulty which has hitherto attended the «
ture of this lovely plant. The seeds of
Columbines have a bright perisperm, while
of this species are unburnished, ariamg
little corrugated markings with which
scope shows them to be covered.

A. Skinneri (Skinner’s Columbine).—
a distinct and elegant kind. The flowers we -
long slender pedicels, the sepals being 1
coloured and lanceolate; the petals are
and yellow, the spurs are nearly 2 inches
of a bright orange-red, and attenuated
slightly incurved club-shaped extremiu;^,
leaves are very glaucous, their divisions = -
sharply incised ; the flower-stems 18 mete ;
2 feet high. Though coming from soiar e^*;
as Guatemala, owing to the fact that it u j*
with in the higher mountain disfcncjM
nearly, if not altogether, hardy, aod *h<»l
more frequently cultivated than it w. 1
again, crossing steps in, and too frequently •
its beauty. While the name may be often i -
the true plant is rare, nor are the eo»d
that insure its perfect development well'•
if they exist with us. It is a late bloome*.

A. VIRIDIFLORA.— As a rule green A°* e v ^
not very much admired, but this Coli 1 ®
an exception ; the sage green of the lieit
delicate tint of the leaf form a stnkffig^JJ
Out of doors, in the border, the plant
noticed, but if a flowering spray or vn _
and placed in a small glass its great tea .
form, and colour, too, are soon recognweo.
is a variety of it known as A. atr0 P tt ^ de€
The sepals are green, but the I* 1 * 1 r

chocolate. The plant is a vigorous ^

native of Siberia, and is aynonym^
Fischer’s A. dahurica. The gre^Columbm ^
a plant for a quiet comer m a bed o snr ^
any other place in which it will
| upon ior a blaze of colour. “ c cu ttm
well deserves a place in 'the nursery

part of the stem is covered with glandular hairs,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

trvs 1 , 1884.3

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

151

this plant nearly as handsome as any of the
choicer kinds. There is a bold single white
form which is a most distinct and handsome

{ riant. A. Vervseneana is a form with mottled
eaves.

The varieties of our common Columbine and
some hybrid forms are so free and hardy, that
they may well be used in the wilder and more
picturesque parts of large pleasure grounds or
parks in the long Grass, by streams or in copses,
among Foxgloves, Geraniums, or long Grasses.
To establish them the ground should be well dug,
if the vegetation is dense, and the seed sown on
the spot, or raised in beds and the seedlings
transplanted. Where bare patches occur from
any cause, and where the seedlings have a

* of hardy flowers. It has a delicate and

uisite fragrance, as good in its way as the
ular beauty of form of the flowers when
ely examined, and as the novelty of the sage
mi of the bloom. It is easily raised from
1 .

.. vulgaris (Common Columbine). — A
iliar occupant of nearly every cottage
ien. There are many good and distinct
us in many colou s, including various
hie kinds, flowering from May till towards
end of summer. The common Columbine

border, and supply them liberally with water
in dry weather, they dwindle away and die, or
rather I should say a good portion of them
refuse to grow. This is not the case when the
plants are moved only once. If planted in
February or March and allowed to remain undis¬
turbed all the summer, they do not die away in
hot dry weather nearly so much as those which
have been recently removed. We do not, how¬
ever, care much if we can only keep alive half
our stock until the middle of August, as by that
time the summer heat begins to decline, the
nights get cooler, and there are frequently
heavy dews, which just suit Daisies, and they
commence to make new growth ; then is the
time to set about getting up a stock. If the old
stools are taken up and divided, every piece
that has roots will make a plant. A position in
the open should be selected for them, and the
soil should be rather rich, as they do not object
to a bit of manure. If the pieces in question
are planted firmly, they will make sturdy plants
by the time they are wanted for the positions in
which they are to flower. The number and
quality of the blooms will be more satisfactory
it the planting is done by the middle of October
than if planted later. C. C.

Saxifraofa granulata. — At this time of
year very few white flowering plants are more
attractive than this, especially if planted in
clumps well to the front of mixed borders. It
will thrive in any soil; in fact, it will grow
where other plants, certainly not more beautiful,
but more generally cultivated, will hardly exist.
Its flowers last a long time when cut, and where
white blossoms are in demand they are indis¬
pensable, being equally well-adapted for table
or room decoration, and they may even be used
in bouquets if wired. Although this variety of
Saxifrage is somewhat old-fashioned, it is sur¬
prising how seldom one meets with it. It,

GARDEN DAISIES AND HOW TO GROW
THEM.

Anyone interested in Daisies and having a little
spare time and space may easily raise a few
seedlings. Half the number raised may possibly
produce single flowers, but the other half will
in most cases consist of double kinds of good
form. The colours may vary from pure
white to deep crimson, intermediate hues
being for the most part delicate shades of
pink. As the seed is small it is best to
sow it either in pans or boxes. Early
spring is the proper time to sow it, as
then the plants will flower early in the
summer ; but it is not too late even now
to sow the seed, and flower the plants in /
the early autumn months. An amateur
with whom I am acquainted derives a
good deal of pleasure from raising seed-
ling Daisies. He sows the seed in pans in
March, and places them in a greenhouse;
when the young plants are large enough
to handle he transplants a portion of
them singly into 4-inch pots, and flowers
them in a cold frame ; the remainder he
plants in the open air after they have
been well hardened. In my own prac¬
tice I have dealt with them in much the
same way. I, however, like the seed to
be sown early in spring, as then the
plants get strong enough early in summer
to produce plenty of flowers. If sown
early in March, and the plants are grown
in a greenhouse or coal pit, they will be
large enough to plant out at the end of
May. We select a shady border for them,
make the soil fine and fairly rich, and
plant 6 inches apart each way. They
incur no further trouble, except to keep
them free from weeds, until they com¬
mence to flower. Those which produce
single flowers are thrown away, those
only with double flowers being saved.

On more than one occasion we have had
charming beds of Daisies the following spring,
and, where mixed colours are not objected to, it
is the easiest way known to me of securing a
healthy and thriving stock of plants, simply
because seedling plants are more vigorous than
those raised from offsets.

In the management of Daisies for spring
bedding where distinct colours are required, we
are more tried than with any other plant we
use for that purpose, and the reds give more
trouble than the whites; but both seem to
object to being removed more than once a year.
When used in the flower garden for spring
bedding they have to be taken up at the end of
May to make room for the summer bedders,
and it is to this second removal to which they
seem to have a decided objection. Although

llympic Columbine (Aquilegia olympica).

V3 with a vigour, and increases itself by
ns of seed with a persistency and a power of
ation that is quite surprising. Whether it
true motive is doubtful, but, bo that as it
it has become thoroughly at home, and no
who haaonce seen it wild will readily forget the
bination of grace and beauty which it pre-
s. In order to stimulate those who possess ex-
live wooded estates to its cultivation or
blishment along the margins of drives where
Iter is afforded, Mr. Niven states that at
ughton Woods, in North Lincolnshire, this

Flower of Aquilegia ccerulea (natural size).

Skinner’s Double Columbine (Aquilegia
Skinneri flore pleno).

ght of 3 feet; and in the month of May, when
5 Lily of the Valley, which grows naturally by
** there, adds its delicious perfume, the
of a walk there, especially after a gentle
of rain, is very great indeed. But,
'*>ver valuable for the wild garden, the many
Tnu of the common Columbine are most valu-
plants for gardens in which it is worth
' i '-- now and then raising a batch of them
rrja fresh seed of a good mixed strain. It
•od i be most desirable also to select and fix
Pieties of the common Columbine of good dis¬
ort colours. One may often/sec? a yar?ety_of

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Juns 7, 1884,

Planting Pampas Grass.— Although to
all appearance a very hardy plant, and likely to
bear a cood deal of rough treatment, the
Pampas Grass is much more easily injured than
its appearance would indicate. In the first
place, it is not a hardy plant in the strict sense
of the word. A severe frost may not perhaps
injure it, but cold north aud east winds do.
Even in Somerset the plants sulfer severely from
this cause, and the older the plants the more
they suffer. Even now the north sides of all
our old plants are sadly disfigured. This
evidently shows that a somewhat sheltered spot
is the best for them. Intending planters, there¬
fore, should bear this in mind, and select for
them positions where they can have shelter
from the quarter indicated. Then as to treat¬
ment. There is nothing particular in that after
they get established; but it is pretty well
known that it is not so easy to get
them established, as they do not like
being removed. The best time to transplant
them is undoubtedly the month of May ; they
will then quickly form new roots, and take
kindly to the soil, if prepared for them as it
should be, by being broken up fine, and pressed
firmly about the roots. In all cases of doubt as
regards the natural soil of the locality it is best
to prepare stations for them by removing any
of an unkindly character, and replacing it with
new material of a better description. The soil
that suits them best is a deep friable loam, rest¬
ing on gravel. It is quite true that they grow
fairly well in other descriptions of soil, but
there is a great difference in the appearance of
plants grown under exactly the conditions that
^uit them and those not so grown. The same
remarks apply to the after management. Few
think of supplying the Pampas Grass when in
active growth with liberal supplies of manure
water, yet few subjects are more benefited by
it; and, as to results, there is no comparison
between those that have been so treated and
those that have not.—J.

11591.— Blue flowers.— Blue flowers are
not so plentiful as red, yellow, or white, but there
are quite enough of them to furnish a large
garden if desired, and they present, perhaps, a
greater variety of form in the bloom than those
of other hues. For forming close, neat patches
and sheets scarcely rising above the surface of
the soil, there are Gentiana acaulis for a good
rich loam, and four pretty creeping Veronicas
for rockery and dry soils.—V. prostrata, V.
rupestris, V. taurica, and V. repens, the last
requiring a little more moisture than the others.
For dry soils or chalk Thymus azureus is a
beautiful native dwarf evergreen creeping plant,
scarcely rising from the ground. It grows here
in dry, trodden paths, where even Grass cannot
live, aud is now breaking into a sheet of heavenly
blue. There are two species or varieties, one
with very close foliage and little round trusses
of azure blue flowers, with a white eye, 1£
inches high ; the other a little more lax in
growth, and taller, flowers purplish blue, with
pale blue eye, occasionally purplish rose. For
later flowering the dwarfer Lobelias are useful.
Veryearly-flowering bulbs are Scilla sibirica and
S. amama, S. bifolia, S. taurica, and S. italica,
Chionodoxa Luciliie and Puschkinia scill-
oides. Next come the Iris pumila ccerulea
and the blue varieties of our native wood
Hyacinth, Scilla nutans, Scilla campa-
nulata; the Grape Hyacinths, Muscari do-
tryoides coeruleum, M. atlanticum, M.
armeniacum, and M. commutatum; and the
Feather Hyacinths, M. racemosuin aud M.
Szovitzianum. Beautiful spring flowers are llie
blue Hepaticas, H. angulosa, and H. triloba,
double and single. Amongst the florists’
Anemones may be found some with blue flowers,
mostly of a purple or lilac shade ; and amongst
Hyacinths there are many blue varieties.
Nemophila insignis, sown in autumn, makes a
sheet of blue in spring, and also does well when
sown early in spring. Lithospermum prostratum
is a beautiful blue, and blue Pansies and Violets
are a host in themselves. The Forget-me-nots
are good blue flowers—sylvatica, dissitiflora,
azorica, and palustris semperflorens. Other
good blue flowers under a foot high are Gentiana
cruciata, G. gelida, Campanula ca»spitosa, C.
turbinata, C. pulla, Aster alpinus, Anemone
apennina, A. pulsatilla, A. Robinsoni, and
Prunella grandiflora. Of taller plants there
are the Columbines, Aquilegia glandulosa and
A. cuerulea, Arnfr A. vulgafs produces an

Digitized by 000510

occasional plant with blue flowers. The purest
blues are to be found in the Larkspurs. Anyone
fond of blue flowers should grow the whole
florists’ section of these. The annual varieties
produce also many blue kinds. The Lupines are a
good blue series. Polyphvllus amongst the peren¬
nials, and nanus and Hartwegii amongst
annuals, are good sorts. The Campanulas arc a
blueiamily, sporting into white, rose, and purple.
Amongst the Pentstemons there arc several
good blue kinds—Pentstemon glaber, P. cyan-
anthus, Brandegei, P. azureus, P. Jaffrayanus,
P. heterophyllus, P. speciosus, and the blue
kinds of P. ovatus. Amongst the Irises there
are many blue varieties—reticulata, orientalis,
longifolia, and the blue varieties of sibirica.
Grand Celeste is a good blue English Iris, and
there are many blue kinds amongst the Spanish
Iris. Of Iris, pallida, Augustus, azurea,
Celeste, and Cytheree are blue varieties. Good
border flowers are Gentiana asclepiadea, Linum
narbonnense, Polemonium coeruleum, Trades -
cantia virgiuica, Commelina ccelestis, Allium
azureum, Centaurea montana, Libertia azurea,
Plumbago Larpentm, Mertensia sibirica, Linde-
lofia spectabilis, and Veronica sub-sessilis. Of
the Aconitums there is a blue and white one ;
but as the plant is poisonous it should be
placed with caution. Of bedding plants, after
the Lobelias, Salvia patens is by far the best.
The Ageratums are persistent bloomers, but
more lavender than blue. Of annuals, or plants
which may be treated as such, Anagallis gran-
diflora Phillinsi is a good blue, half-hardy
kind. Browallia elata grandiflora is also good.
Of hardy annuals the best are Linum grandi-
florum, Centaurea cyanus (the common Corn¬
flower), Convolvulus minor, and Whitlavia
gloxinioides. Of a more lavender or purple
shade of blue are Whitlavia grandiflora, Kaul-
fussia amelloides, Brachvcome iberidifolia, and
Nolana atriplicifolia and N. lanceolata (these
creep along the trround), Didiscus cceruleus,
and Asperula azurea setosa. There is a
good blue variety of the climbing Con¬
volvulus major. Fine blue-flowering bulbs are
Camassia esculcnta and Agapanthus umbellatus ;
both require a sunny, sheltered place in light,
rich, well-drained soil. Stokesia cyanea and
Platycodon autumnale may be recommended for
the same positions. Vinca major produces
slaty-blue flowers in autumn and spring, and
during mild winters will grow in any shady
place, and flowers well at the foot of a wall fac¬
ing north. Ceanothus azureus is a good flower¬
ing shrub for a very sheltered spot. For the
rougher parts of the garden our native
Germander Speedwell makes a mass of blue in
out-of-the-way corners and under trees on Grass
where the sun gets at it. The Alkanets are
strong-growing plants of the Forget-me-not
family. Tropa^ofum azureum is a hardy climber
from the island of Chilce, in South America,
which does not seem much known, although in¬
troduced many years ago ; its native climate is
damp.—J. D.

11555.—Hardy Ferns for water-side.
—The best hardy Ferns to plant by the water are
Osmunda regalis and Athyrium filix-feemina.
Lastrea thelypteris, L. cristata, and L. spinulosa
would also probably do well. The following
are the chief Ferns found especially in limestone
districts : Polypodium calcareum, Cystopteris
fragilis, C. dentata, C. alpina, C. montana,
Lastrea rigida, Ceterach officinarum, Asplenium
Ruta-muraria, A. viride, and A. fontanum.
All these naturally inhabit limestone districts,
and can only be cultivated successfully when
planted in abundance of limestone.—N.

11496.—Pansies eaten off.—I think
“ Bowes Park’s ” suggestion as to painting the
leaves and buds of Pansies with Tobacco water is
impracticable with anyone having a quantity
of plants. 1 grow Pansies largely, and my
blooms I observed a few days ago were being
eaten away ; so to find the cause I examined the
plants after dark with a lantern, aud found,
not insects, but small white and brown slugs
were the cause of the mischief, anti these were
mostly hidden in the foliage and behind the
blooms. Let “Churchyard” look after these
small slugs, as they, to my mind, do more
harm to Pansies than anything else.— Slco-

LJaiioalls not floweringf.— Daffodils generally
flower, unless the soil is exhausted. In this case trans¬
planting to a new piece of soil will work wonders.—C hry-
8AXTIIEMCM

; THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.

' Glasshousea

Tiie hardier varieties of greenhouse pU
may now be safely trusted outside. These
^ include the earliest Camellias, Azaleas, Co
t nillas, Acacias, and Cytisuses. In mori
plants outside some care is necessary
j sudden chauge often causes them to drop tb
foliage. When first brought from under
a shady position should be selected for tb
’ and means must be taken to prevent
j from finding their way into the pots. \Vh
naturally shaded spot is not to be found, it
’ be advisable to take measures for co
[ them with canvas during the sunny part of
{ day ; and a strip of this material tied round
pots will be of much advantage to the roots,
j the too sudden drying of the pots during
x days has a tendency to injure the roots of p
that are just turned out of greenhouses. Ac
k that have been grown ou from a small su
and others that are larger and have been
’ back and re-pot ted after blooming, will in
f cases have made sufficient growth, and sh
. be exposed to the open air ; this is necessary
J fully harden and mature the growth, and
. induce the formation of flowers, for if the pi
be kept under a glass in a growing state
[ summer, they will not produce flowers in
J profusion as if thus exposed. By j
out-of-doors in good time they will
r dition to bloom earlier through the winter.

very useful winter blooming Cytisu9 racem
‘ superbus, which is much better than
common C. racemosus, requires to be similar
k treated.

5 Abutilons. — These arc of the
. possible management. Cuttings of the
[ ripened shoots, 5 inches or 6 inches in 1
» inserted singly in 3-inch pots in sand
moist, shaded, and covered with a propigs!

[ glass in a little warmth, will strike in a f
. weeks, and make nice specimens that v9j
j bloom through the autumn and winter. A
; Boule de Neige, A. vexillarium, and A
( vexillarium igneum are all equally worth)
l cultivation, flowering freely in small pots
r ordinary greenhouse treatment. The two
j grown with single steins 12 inches or 18
l in height, and then stopped so as to form a
r head, make beautiful miniature standards
. able for table or window decoration, or
. placing in the greenhouse, where, if raised
3 inverted pots, they greatly relieve the e*

} surface of dwarf-growing subjects.
i Hydrangeas and Cyclamens. — Hydr»>

3 geas are now in bloom, and require
3 assistance in the way of manure water;
t shoots not furnished with flower-buds should il
r removed and used for purposes of propagM 1
, Old roots of Cyclamens not bearing seed-pi
- may be transferred to a frame having a norta
3 and shady aspect. The young ones must
kept in a good growing state. Plants of Spi
japonica that have done flowering should
3 transplanted into a plot of ground that is nc
moist, and warm.

i Primulas and Cinerarias.— If sown as v!

I vised these will shortly be lit for placing
b 2\ -inch pots in soil consisting of three-fourt!
s good loam and one-fourth rotten manure and
, soil in equal quantities, with a good sprint
i of sand. When potted, put them into fra®|

. facing northwards, as these plants cannot M
, exposure to full sunshine, to break the rav3 x
a which, when very bright, shade with a pie**
netting or thin canvas. Cinerarias should statj
<■ ou a bed of ashes that will hold moisture ^ *
e maintain a humid atmosphere about thepb^

8 they cannot endure being placed on sb*'*
y exposed to dry currents of air. Place Prim'
y on inverted pots, so as to keep them up c
g the glass, or they will become drawn and loti
e in the leaf stalks. After potting, keep “J
, lights closely shut down at night with ocn - »
s little air on during the day until they have com?
e menced to grow freely, after which gi™
e plentifully night and day.

* Flower Garden.

Propagate for next spring such plants *jf
Pansies, Arabis, Aubrietias, and aimdH
flowering subjects; also Primroses, 1 0l JV
thuses, and Daisies. These may be ** J[
!’ increased by division. The pieces dctac
should be planted in nursery beds inpari^

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN I

Jrsi 1 , 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTR,4ted

153

ided positions and kept moist by good water¬
's, and alibied with branches until rooted.
w seeds of Forget-me-nots, Sweet Williams,
Dterbury Bells, Foxgloves, and other biennials,
owere of Lilies who may have plants of the
den-rayed kind started in pots may now
nsfer them to open spaces in Rhododendron
Is, the loose soil of which suits them exceed-
;ly well, and the shelter and partial shade
orded by the shrubs furnish just the amount
protection which they require. Lilium
'anteum also succeeds well in such places.
iey should be planted deeply at first, as the
lbs naturally work up to the surface as new
lbs are formed to succeed the old ones. Tree
•onies are now finely in flower and most
active. The old Moutan of our shrubbery
.-Jew is quite eclipsed by some of the newer
rieties; but to do them justice they should
: be crowded overhead by strong-growing
es, or impoverished at the root by more
ererful neighbours ; on the contrary, they
mid be grouped in sheltered nooks, the tree
ic'ies l>eing margined by herbaceous sorts,
yone looking about for substitutes for
linary bedding plants will find in Pseonies
various sorts, Irises in great variety, Del-
niums, Pyrethrums, Pinks, and in the host
plants that blossom in company with the
se, abundant material to satisfy the most
tidious taste as to variety. Hollyhocks will
v need a good supply of water, and if a
Iching of good rich manure was applied pre-
usly, its virtues will be washed down to the
ts if the water is supplied through the
rae rose of a large watering-pot. A sprink¬
le of soot may be scattered over the
face of the ground round the plants ; it
joys worms, which are sometimes trouble-
le, eating holes in the leaves and seriously
ppling weakly plants. Syringe the foliage
'roughly on the evenings of hot, dry days,
rking the syringe so that the under-sides of
» leaves are well wetted.

Fruit.

Fines.— When all the Grapes have been cut
m the Vines in the early house, inside borders
y have a heavy soaking of diluted liquid, and
;he event of the surface roots having found
ir way to the surface, a little more mulching
y be added to keep them moist and to pre-
lt evaporation. Syringe freely, for the two-
1 purpose of cleansing the old foliage and the
Duragement of fresh laterals. Keep the
ter evenly balanced by pinching the points
of the strongest. Ventilate the house
oughout the day, and close with sun-heat
>ut4 p.m. on fine days. Take time by the
elock in all matters connected with the
ruling and regulating of the late crop of
ipes, as every day lost at this busy season will
1 unfavourably when they begin to ripen,
ooae medium-sized bunches for hanging, thin
11, and guard against overcropping. Lady
»nes and other kinds which are liable to
.Id must be closely watched through the
'fling process ; but as watching will not stay
J evil, see that the houses are kept warm
rough the night, and ventilate freely through
e early part of the day, so as to prevent a
dden rise of temperature and condensation of
jisture on the berries, which do not take up
at so quickly as the atmosphere of a confined
aery at this season of the year. Give an
undance of air to Grapes now' colouring, and
5 that inside borders are well supplied with
p:d water or gentle stimulants where finish is
•ubtfuL

Encourage free growth in the case of all fresh-
anted Vines by closing the ventilators early in
8 afternoon, so that the temperature may re-
un about 80 dega. for an hour or two. Damp
i bare surfaces and use the syringe freely where
e slightest indication of the presence of in-
ds can be detected. Do not let the growths
1 °oe-year-old spring-planted canes become
^wded, which they are apt to do about this
The leading rods, which may have been
‘■m-d to grow to make a quantity of foliage
,)r forming roots, should never be permitted to
J!Be nearer than 1 foot of each other, and the
^er&l growths produced ou these must be
^ in to the first leaf. Where only one or
• 2 *nes have been taken from each root, the
ccadary growths mav be left longer, their
being regulated by the space there is
^ond them. Vines plantcaTlffet season ~

Digitized by ^Q'

”^f,

brought into growth early without forcing will
now be getting w’ell established. Bunches will
be appearing on the strongest rods, and the
number left on must depend on the capabilities
of the Vine. Some may be allowed to bear two,
and others four and five, but it is always best to
crop lightly when at this age, or the Vines will
be liable to become prematurely impaired in
health. No bunch should be left on the leading
shoot, the great object being to get that as per¬
fect as possible for next year’s supply. Those
who have plenty of Grapes on older Vines will
lose nothing by not fruiting young Vines of this
age till next season, but temporary ones planted
along with them may be cropped heavily, as
some of them may have to be dispensed with
next spring. Those planted two years ago
should produce some fine Grapes this season.
The size of the bunch and strength of the Vine
should determine the weight. When well regu¬
lated, a bunch on every alternate shoot on the
lower portion of the rod is an average crop for
ordinary Vines.

Peaches. —To prevent ripe fruit falling to
the ground and getting Bpoilt, a good plan is to
suspend a net under the trees in a series of
flounces or doubles, so as to catch the falling
fruits and yet not allow them to fall too far
and perhaps knock against each other, as they
would do if all fell into one part of the net.
Succession houses may be kept closer and
warmer than those in which the fruit is ripen¬
ing, and syringed more liberally. Houses in
which the fruit is stoning should be carefully
attended to during bright, hot weather, giving
abundance of ventilation early; a slight shade
would also benefit the trees at midday during
hot weather. At this stage, at which an over
strain would have the tendency to cause the
fruit to drop, see to the final thinning of the
fruit in orchard houses, and take care that the
borders are abundantly moist as a precaution
against red spiders and blight; for, sure enough,
those enemies will at once attack a tree in dis¬
tress. The crop must also suffer if the roots be
dry, and if the fruit gets stunted from dryness
now no after management w'ill bring it up to the
required standard. The front ventilators may
be kept open day and night when the wind is
south or south-west.

Melons ripening require to be kept a little
on the side of dryness. As the frames arc now
cleared from bedding plants, the latest-sown
Melons should be put in them ; these will come
in late in the season. The beds need not now
be made so substantial as was necessary earlier
in the season ; if a good supply of last autumn’s
leaves are at hand, they may be made of at
least one-lialf of this and well-prepared manure.
Three feet in depth will be enough now ; beds
of this description will be sooner cool enough
to receive the plants than those recommended
earlier in the season.

Orchard Houses. —The trees in unheated
houses will now be growing vigorously, and the
size of the fruit will be rapidly increasing.
Continue to remove a few of the worst-placed
fruit as the daily manipulation of the trees is
proceeded with ; but leave a small percentage
for removal after the stoning is completed.
Pinch all strong growing shoots, and entirely
remove any that are likely to interfere with the
symmetry of the trees before they have time to
rob the lower and less vigorous growths.
Syringe twice a day, and give an abundance of
water of a stimulating character to the roots as
often as may be necessary. The watering of
pot fruit trees is one of the main points in suc¬
cessful culture; therefore careful examination of
every pot should be made before the afternoon
syringing is performed.

Hardy Fruit.

Pears and Plums may now have all their
breastwood shortened back to two or three
joints, and the new shoots that are to be left
for furnishing the walls should be nailed or tied
into position ; any side laterals which they may
produce should be persistently kept pinched in.
Standards, bushes, or pyramids of the same
kinds of trees might also be similarly treated as
regards repression of growth, the process
tending also in a large measure to the clearing
away of insects, as it is mostly on the young
wood that they take up their position.

Cherries. —Remove the superfluous growths
_£rom sweet Cherries on walls, and cover with

netting to protect them from birds. Morellos
should have the new growths laid in close to
the walls, and secured with small sticks fixed at
each end in the boughs of trees. Morello
Cherries will repay for liberal manuring ; a
heavy mulching of fresh stable manure applied
now, and a good watering over it, would make
them safe for the whole season.

Vegetables.

Whenever a crop is done with, manure and
dig the land on which it grew, in order to have
it in readiness for something else. Nothing
impoverishes the ground so much or looks more
untidy than runaway vegetables. Peas, in windy
places, are sometimes apt to partially escape
from the sticks which support them. W hen this
tendency is first noticed, if a strand of rope
yarn is run along the rows on the leeside and
linked here and there to the sticks, it will turn
them back in the right direction and prevent
them from being broken down.

Carrots and Turnips. —Make a further
small sowing of Early Horn Carrots. There is
a frequent demand for small young Carrots,
which it is always best to anticipate. Sow
Turnips to succeed those just up. Burnt earth
or ashes from any substance except coal has an
invigorating influence upon the growth of
Turnips in dry weather. The Red American
Stone and Orange Jelly are the best Turnips
for sowing at this season. Avoid, if possible,
the necessity for sowing in freshly-dug land.
If the land has been prepared a week or so, the
moisture, even in dry weather, will have risen
by what is termed capillary attraction, and by
drawing the drills rather deeper than necessary
or desirable early in the spring, the seeds may
be laid in moist soil, and germination thereby
assisted.

Planting. —Continue planting, as opportunity
offers and space becomes vacant, such crops ns
Brussels Sprouts and early Broccoli. A suffi¬
cient breadth of spring-sown Cabbages should
also be planted, giving them room according to
their kinds ; small varieties, such as Cocoa-nut
or Little Pixie, will do if they be placed 15 inches
apart each way, whereas those of the Enfield
Market class should 6tand 18 inches asunder in
the rows, with 2 feet between. Savoys should
have a similar space allotted to them, according
to the small or large variety grown. A few
Bpring-Bown Red Cabbages should aho be planted
18 inches from plant to plant, and the rows
20 inches apart. With the large number who
cannot find room until something that has
preceded them is cleared off, there is no chance
but keeping the plants until the required space
is at liberty in the beds in which they were re¬
commended to be prickod out a short time ago,
from which they can be removed with very
much less check than if allowed to remain in
the seed-bed until permanently planted.

Celery.— The main crop of Celery may now
be planted, choosing the first favourable oppor¬
tunity when the weather is showery, for al¬
though the plants may not be so large &s to
take any harm in the nursery bed, they will re¬
ceive less check from moving than if planted
later when they are larger.

Cucumbers. —Top-dress Cucumber beds im¬
mediately the young roots are seen protruding
above the surface, thin out superfluous laterals
and decaying leaves, and always maintain a
regular supply of young and good bearing
wood. Never permit too many fruits to be on
one plant at a time, as they only prevent each
other’s development. Syringe twice a day with
clean tepid water, but if mildew be sus¬
pected, mix with it a little flowers of sulphur.
Strong and healthy plants militate against red
spider ; therefore manure water must be freely
applied to Cucumbers in full growth.

Tomatoes. —In localities not favourable to
the growth of Tomatoes, or where a difficulty
has been experienced through attacks of the
diseases with which this vegetable has of resent
years suffered, it would be advisable to grow
some in frames. If the plants are put into
12 inch pots and plunged in the ground, and the
frames elevated on bricks, so as to give in¬
creased headroom, good crops may be secured.
The principal thing to be observed in their cul¬
ture is to keep the plants sufficiently thinned
and well tied up, not allowing them to suffer
for want of water, and giving enough air to

IOF ILLINOIS A1
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[JcUe 7, 1884.

My experience of Roses in pots.*

frames on, as they cannot well l>e built up with* INDOOR PLANTS

out it, the tan or leaves being altogether too _

short alone. In using horse manure it will be PREPARING HARDY AZALEAS FO
necessary to be very careful, as it is fiery stuff, WT v m onvirvo

the fermentation of it being violent, to correct . WINTER BLOOMING,

which and get rid of the injurious gases it Few will question the adaptability of Aii
evolves, the manure should be got together in a mollis for forcing, but it is not always «
large heap and turned over several times during yenient to give it the special treatment whi
the week. This will let out the rank steam and it requires for this purpose. In order to in
sweeten it, and as soon as this is done, it will the difficulty, it may be useful to say i
be in fit condition for use. The size of the bed there are two ways of dealing with the p

Several of your correspondents have lately been to be very careful, as it is fiery stuff,

discussing the relative merits of various Roses, we fermentation of it being violent, to correct
and there is one side of the question which, if whl , ch and 8 et rul of the injurious gases it
you could allow room for its ventilation, might ? volv68 ’ the manure should be got together in a
prove of interest to a number of your renders. lar « e he , a P a,ld tu ™ e<1 over several times during
Gardening Illustrated has a good circula- the week. I his will let out the rank steam and
tion here, and matters horticultural are taken 8W ®°ten and a8 Boon aa this i 8 done, it will
a great interest in. The cultivation of Roses be m . ht co ? dlt i on ‘ or U86 ‘ The 8126 of the ^

here, in a large town, at the sea coast, in the , raU8t be 11x1611 h ? thttt of the frame > but for this applicable to both large and small gardens,
north of England, and within sight and some- “ tter to have plenty of base to stand on, it is with no great difference as regards result*,
times smell of the large chemical, copper, and alwaya a3 wel1 to b « dd ab out a foot larger all the case of those who have sufficient h
manure works, is only possible under glass T round, the propter height being about 2 feet room, no doubt the most satisfactory way u

V? v/I tvo, 13 umv Uliuer UUiSS. 1 , ' * * . o , , , ' O-—-- , 1 A 1 . Pm • *

grow 50 or 60 varieties in pots of from 6 inches ® when settled, which body of stuff will grow the plants always in pots. This

up to 20 inches in diameter, according to the bo ! d the beat for a considerable time. When own way of dealing with them, and we hare
bize of the plant. I grow them in a house with- bul1 *’ aud the fra,ne on « the next thing 18 to complain of the quantity of flov

bize of the plant. I grow them in a house with- auu uie Ira,,,u ou > uie nexi l,un S 18 ™ oi now

out any artificial heat, and a house which is & e * m . . t , . t t T hlcb th ? y PJ’ oduce * Our plants are take,

rather shaded from the full heat of the sun , Ihk soil ; but l>efore doing this it must lie the forcing house early m December, wh

The Roses begin in the first week in April, and decided whether Melons or Cucumbers are to be the temperature is maintained at at»

continue until November. Gloira de Dijon g rown - T If tbe latter, the soil cannot well be ^ de ^ l * ce ® by m « ht 411(1 55 degrees
does well. The plant is not a very large one 100 rou 8 h or loosc ’ a3 Cucumbers like it in that day, and the plants are generally m
and I can get over 100 blooms each season’ way run m » and though Melons likewise by the middle of January. As soon
Cheshunt Hybrid does as well as Gloire, and is £ refe J co ^ rse s ° l1 ’ lt 18 ne cessary to make it very they go out of bloom they are turned oat

very sweet; so is Souvenir de la Malmaisonand hrm , for them » or tb ®y 8 row far too strong and their pots, their roots are examined, and if the

La France. These are my beat bloomers and are 8b y.m their fruiting. What Cucumbers do require more room they are at once shifted is
healthiest plants. Belle Lyonnaise does very **** m is the parings from the edges of Grass pots one size larger, the soil which we use bei;,
well. Adam and Niphetos are very good also or .newly-dug turf, which, chopped up, is peat and sand only. As soon as shifted they

healthiest plants. Belle Lyonnaise does very

well. Adam and Niphetos are very good also, yerges or newlv-dug turf, which, chopped up, is peat ana sand only. As soon as shifted they
Souvenir d’Elize is not very free blooming, but J ugd the , th J n « *°F tbem ; as be,n « 80 * ul1 of * hre to a cool house, where they are b{*

very beautiful As a rule the best of the lk affords tb em the food they require. Heavier J ust secure from frost, and where they ima
Teas are very satisfactory, but when I come to #tu 1 ? or even common garden earth does very until they have completed their growth, whid
the Hybrids the list of failures is long v T el11 for Melons, and this, when put in for is generally by the end of May. They are tha
Mildew and wood without bloom are their khe,n ’ sb °uhl be trodden down, and as soon as placed in the open air, and at this stage they
worst faults. John Hopper I have had to warmed through all will be ready for require rather careful watching. If the flow*

throw away. Senateur Vaisse and early Teas fche J P lant8 - The f e sbould 1)6 y° un g> healthy, bad8 are at all prominent, the plants mui: b
were both failures, so was Beauty of Waltham and and to fill each light properly, two takm i to a cool shady place, or some of the bo*

and Madame Victor Verdier. Abel Camera and ar . e eded . M °ne can then be trained from the will flower prematurely in September; bat i

Horace Vernet both did very badly I could middle t°the front, and the other be led to the the flow er buds are not visible when taken frai

not do anything with Charles Lefebvre, and back *. The way to mana « e Melons, so as to get under glass, they should be placed in an opes

generally the Roses w.ith dark-coloured blooms the . m *? co \ er th . e a P aces ff« i(jk bb j 8 to stop the sunny position and allowed to remain there d
or very sweetly scented, cither faffed altogether T m shoot by P lnchm g ou t the end, when, soon the summer. In other respects this Azala j
or only produced two or three blooms, and soon alter .' tbe P lants bteak 1)elow . and the very easy to manage, for it is quite hardy. It

generally the Roses w.ith dark-coloured blooms the . m *? cov , er th . e 8 P aces ff« ,(jk bb j 8 to stop the junny position and allowed to remain there »3
or very sweetly scented, cither faffed altogether T m shoot by P lnchm g ou t the end, when, soon the summer. In other respects this Azala j
or only produced two or three blooms, and soon a / ter ; F lant8 will break below, and the very easy to manage, for it is quite hardy. It
got covered with mildew. On the other hand 8bo °t 8 formed can then be trained out by is not troubled with insects, and only vuti»
Marquise de Castellaine, Madame Eugenie ■ a , ld ? f a few P 6 .® 8 in an y direction re- reasonable amount of attention as regirci
Verdier, Marie Finga, Marie Baumann, Baroness ? uire f As soon as the ends have reached the watering. For gardens in which there is vi
Rotlischild, and even Alfred Colomb, have done b()unda 1 r y allotted for them they must again be much room, or where it is not desired to cate
fairly well; but the scentless or weaklv-scented 8to PP ed > the laterals and the main branches vatethem in pots, two sets of plants are require
Hybrids, those seemingly nearly allied to Teas ™ en throw , ou t speedily numbers of flowers, and a piece of groimd conUining a suiUble d
and Chinas, bloom in pots well while the others Th ? se t V 1U9t ^ set , when ex P auded b y ^iug the must be set apart for them In this case thei
barely live. I should like to know the experience bl ? s 3°. m8 and using the pollen by touching 8b( >uld be one set of plants forced every wsr-

of other growers upon this matter, perhaps the ? hem Wlth . lt in the ce , ntre » b y dom g whi c b they that is to say, the plants which were in flower
cultivation was not correct, but this is hardly ^ ecome „ impregnated, and at once begin ft the beginning of the present year will c*
likely as the other Roses do so well. I have SWe11 ft u d grow larger. As soon as be planted out, and allowed to> remain so unL

present year will I
k'ed to remain so ull I

had 2.3 blooms on the Marquise de Castellaine th «y.. are ab ? ut the of Walnuts or eggs, the “utumn of l 8 85 This will give

. .. V. - A v/wowvuamo on/4 if r»o n DOOI, +1.0,r O V.O OO +1, „ C Ji. SP.dSnn S Drmwfh mnrtn un, or

... —' WHO .UtWUlUBC UC ^twtcimme J •, , . , , OO

; once, all fine blooms. I remove every winter u !! they ar6 8a ^, the fru

irt of the top soil from the pots and fill up 8h °uldJ*> thinned, from four to five being qui

_1 _i rai * • . > GllOUffh for A RIIUtIa nlanf. fn narnr nnf or

with good rich turfy loam. Plenty of top air
is given. Plants are often syringed, and green
fly does not become troublesome until towards
end of season.— Rose Grower.

fruit season’s growth made under natural circuE
quite stances, which will, in the ordinary coarsec:’

A- i _• u _i-,*? ._

fly does not become troublesome until towards mma \ nat M610ns * wnen 8wellm g their fruit, unaer mis treatment tnevareiowa

end of season.— Rose Grower. want P lent y of water, which ought always to be one season and rested the next, and there aw

Guano for Roses.—The best way to apply guano to warm » and ma y ^ poured over them through reason why, under careful management, they
Roses is to sow it on the surface, choosing a moist time, the rose of a watering-pot, so as to wet the should not last for many years. Ii it is desired
and rake it in. Good Peruvian guano is an excellent foliage, which, if done, as it should be, early to keep them from getting too large, thev Jfl:
™r£. r w*S' n n . d houWr'^v™. * n the afternoon before closing the frame, is very not object to being pruned, but &e

carry its nutritious properties down, so that the roots can refreshing. As the fruits approach the ripening must be done in the winter succeeding tr+t a
utilise them by the time the plants come into growth.— J.C stage it is requisite for the plants to be kept which they were forced. In the case of

--- ’ drier, or the fruit will be of inferior quality ; grown in pots, pinning must be dispensed with i

___ but to maintain the leaves in a green healthy f bc plants arc expected to flower every ’ ear. Ii

r KUIT. condition it will be necessary to syringe or tbe sacrifice of one year’s flowers is o' no in-

carry its nutritious properties down, so that the roots can
utilise them by the time the plants come into growth.—J.C

FRUIT.

sprinkle them both in the mornings and after- portance, then moderate pruning m..y be re-
noons on hot, sunny days. sorted to ; but it must be done in winter wha

Cucumbers enjoy this treatment too, and the tbe plants are at rost. C. G

CUCUMBERS AND MELONS IN FRAMES t noons on hot, sunny days.

When bedding plants are put out, pita and Cucumbers enjoy this treatment too, and the
frames cannot well be better employed during atmosphere for them cannot well be too moist,
summer than in growing Cucumbers and Melons, a3 a bum id, warm air is what they delight in.
either of which do exceedingly well in such Many who grow Cucumbers go to great pains in

CULTURE OF EPACRISES.

either ot which do exceedingly well in such 1VAa ny wnogrow uucumbers go to great pains in ur arAi/ivioiw.

structures. To enable this to be done, how- 8efct i n g tbe fruit in the same way they do Amongst greenhouse plants now in cultivate I

ever, they must be fairly started on a little Melons ; but unless seed be required, they are none are more serviceable than Epacrises, ass*|

bottom heat, and the longer this lasts the better be tter without that operation being performed, °nly are they of great use for decorat ivepurpofti ]
will they thrive and bear fruit. The first thing, f* 8 ^ helps to fill the fruit with seea and pulp but they are of much value in a cut state, the-’ [
therefore, is the fermenting material; the best in tbe npdfil®- In growing either Cucumbers or l°qg* slender shoots clothed w ith gay blosoc-5,
and most desirable, so far as heat is concerned, is Melons in frames or pits, the thing is to make being just the thing for vases, where, if to*
Tan, which may be got in almost anv fcl . ie ***** U8C of the 8un by closin g at tbree 8U PPii® d with fresh water and not subjected to*

quantity in towns for a mere nominal sum and °, cl ? c . k ? r 80611 as f ben plenty of heat is dr y b ® ft t by being placed too near a tire, they

often for the labour of cartiug The creat shut m for the m 8 bt * and tbe moisture with it last a long time in perfection. Epacrises, be:n*
point is to obtain it fresh, as that which has kee P s th e plants strong and healthy.—S. hard-wooded subjects, are generally suppose-I to

been lying exposed to the rain and weather * \1633 -Ral8lngr Peach border.-If the border has be difficult to grow, but in reality they are W*
loses its virtue and strength and /!/.„□ to be j^sed one or two feet the trees had better be lifted so ; on the contrary, they mav be managed much

reSLit, wa^tht^bAhmatfSTl wTll T*,

keep in a regular state of fermentation for the trees, and might kill them ultimately.—J. D. E. confined atmosphere better, and ao not object

keep in a regular state of fermentation for the trees, and might kill them ultimately. con fia®d atmosphere better, and do not object

months. Being of a mild, sweet nature, tan --- a ce ^ ain amount of artificial heat, of whiett

requires little or no preparation, but may be put Mistletoe on Annie tree* -Tho w r h vo m ° St . Heatba are exceedmgly impatient, »oa
into the pit at once, and the bed made and the found to make Mistletoe grow on Apple tJees is to get w^n^iT 8l ^ 13of th f ln J n ™> us
plants turned out as soon as the heat gets ud 80mc OT rather berries, whole ; bruise the skin, and ! las on them by becoming mildewed and talUDg
0 or’ y OU wUl observe a sort of guin round the seed. Dy taking into a bad state of health.

oTABLE MANURE AND LEAVES, or the former theIgumand rubbing it on the tree, then placing the seed Propac ATTxn _T?rk*r.i*Iooo not difficult M
and tan, also make capital hotbeds, the manure o® 1 !. nibbing some more gum over it, the seed will , °f A ?lT rNa '' -'P 400868 are not Jfr .
being almost indispensable for teds to 8T °7 m T about a fortn »?ht- Be sure and not ff™* * bat they are to propagate; as this, ho*

6 08t m 7 8p ^ nsa T f-.n d burBt the Wed.—JAMB Atkixbox. carried ®ht extendrtlv by professioruJ

Digitized by t 10 Jl ,rT.TT. T-. : '

Propagating. -r^-Epacrises are not difficult t<i

naKe capital notbeds, the manure u •’ * sum over it, me seen win . , ..*.. ,i

indispensable for teds to in , about a fortn, 8: ht - Be sure and not lF ow > b «t they are to propagate ; as this, ho* ,

indispensable tor feeds to stand I burst the set-d.-JAMss Atk.nson. | J is earned>it extoi%ely by professionai

1 VjiUU^IC urbana-champaign

fm 7, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

155

skilled hands in nurseries, and as the plants
; be bought very cheap, it is hardly worth
le attempting to strike any ; indeed the
•mpt to do so would be more than likely to
in failure. Those who would like to begin
r cultivation should purchase plants at once ;
getting them now when in flower, choice may
na»le of the sorts. When the blossoms have
9 ft. cut back the shoots in order to induce
plants to break again below and form a
noer of young ones at their base ; it is on
se young shoots that the flowers of the follow-
year will be borne. The extent to which
v should be pruned depends on their strength,
in a general way about a couple of inches of
old wood is quite enough to leave, and to in-
e tills portion breaking well, it is always
isable to stand the plants in a house where
y can lie kept tolerably close and have a warm,
ist atmosphere just to give them a start. A

growth best under glass, but when that is com¬
plete they should be stood in some shady posi¬
tion outdoors, where, exposed to the air and
night dews, they keep more healthy, and are
enabled to ripen their wood. D.

CLUB MOSSES (SELAGINELLAS.)
Although the many handsome plants belong¬
ing to thU genus boar no relation whatever to
Ferns, many of them are so similar in general
appearance that it is no wonder if by the side
of a good collection of Ferns is often to be found
one of Selaginellas equally worthy of note.
They are most of them of very easy culture,
and as a rule invaluable for decorative pur¬
poses, as their elegance can hardly be over¬
rated, and their power of eudurauce in many
instances prove sufficiently satisfactory to
enable their owners to utilise them for indoor

amount of oonstant moisture around and about
them. To effect that they should be placed on
a solid bed which constantly gives off moisture,
or, if that is not practicable on account of the
house being provided with stages, the latter
should be covered with Sphagnum, to lie kept
wet, and the pans not allowed to rest directly
on it, but to be set up above it on throe small
pots or on an inverted pan, so as to avoid
all contact with the saturated material. In
that way the plants will derivo all the benefit
of the surrounding moisture without the Boil
becoming sour. Although a few species do well
in loam, the majority of them delight in an
open compost consisting of equal parts of good
fibrous peat and chopped Sphagnum, which wilt
prove all the more nutritious to them if old and
partly decayed. A good proportion of silver
sand and crock-dust might be added with
advantage, as it will tend to keep the soil

ght syringing now and then on the mornings
•“ evenings of bright, sunny days will help this
itter materially, and as soon as they are fairlv
the move it will be high time for potting all
require a shift.

The only soil that suits Epacrises is
at. which should be of as fibry nature as it is
«ihle to get it, and when chopped up toler-
•y fine have a heavy sprinkling of sharp silver
twl cast over it, and the whole thoroughly
ued together. In repotting it is important
have nice clean pots, and to see that they are
“ irained b j having an inch or so of finely
' Aen crocks in the bottom, over which should
- strewn a little dry Moss to prevent the
trices becoming filled up witn the soil.
^ pota prepared in this way, all will be ready
* lifting the plants, and in doing this it is
*7 at c«s*ary to ram the peat hard in around
? °“Wl, so as to make it as solid as possible,
^nri*e the water when given will pass through
it* ^at unmoistened, and the plants
^ *wi?uiaH a.nH dia Eparcj[ise$ make th< *

1 Aguish and die.

Digitized by

:ns^ make theif frr

Google

decoration, as some of them succeed admirably
in a Wardian case. The majority of these
beautiful plants come from the East and West
Indies, and consequently require a warm, close,
moist atmosphere where draughts are carefully
avoided, although some are quite at home in a
temperate house, and even a few of them are
quite hardy ; but those which are found doing
well at a comparatively low degree of heat are
few in number. The temperature most suitable
for the bulk of them is from 65 degrees to
70 degrees, and they will, by growing more
luxuriantly, give even more satisfaction if the
heat can be kept up to 70 degrees or 75 degrees
all the year round. Growing them in shallow
pans is the best method of cultivation, as, with
the exception of those belonging to the rosulate
section, they all require room to Bpread,
and most of them root upon the surface.
They should be kept on tne shady Bide or
at one end of the house ; in any case it will be
found beneficial to have them kept separate
from the Ferns, as they require a greater

porous, which is very necessary, as they require
copious waterings at the roots, although
they have a particular dislike to standing
permanently in the wet. Fot the same
reason, also, it is quite necessary that the pots
or pans should be thoroughly well drained.
Because Selaginellas are moisture-loving plants
it does not follow that they should have
frequent syringings over the foliage, treat¬
ment really most damaging to them, us
they cannot endure their massive, feathery
fronds to be wetted over at all. They are very
variable in colour and size. Among their
numbers may be found all ’the shades of green,
from the lightest to the darkest tints ; some are
of the most dazzling hue, while others have
their foliage prettily variegated. One of them
even changes to white or grey as the sun sets
in the evening, but resumes its green appearance
again in the morning. S. grandis, a specimen
of which forms the subject of our illustration,
is a native of Borneo, whore* ■ if i was col-

lected *U Aft/ MVro Flffi N^AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

156

GARDENING ILL UST1L4 TED

[Juins 7, 1884.

I.

Veitch and Sons. Its erect stems are
produced from a creeping rooting base or
stolon as thick as an ordinary pencil; they grow
from 10 inches to 15 inches high, and are clothed
with ovate acuminate, serrulated leaves, the
lateral ones becoming larger and merging into
the larger leaves of the fronds, which are bold,
and at the same time graceful in habit, of a clear
grass-green above, paler beneath, from 10 inches
to 12 inches long, dichotomously branched with
numerous furcations, some of which measure
more than half an inch across in the more
matured parts of the fronds. The leaves are
also very closely set indeed, leaving no
interval between, and this renders the breadth
of the branches much more effective, and
gives them a remarkably leafy appearance.
Every successive frond in Messrs. Veitch’s
grand specimen plant grows taller and
larger, and the fertile ones, fringed by the
elegant tail-like spikelets which are produced
abundantly at the tip of every shoot, add greatly
to the already noble appearance of this magni¬
ficent plant.

POINSETTIAS.

Among plants which bloom from November
to January we have nothing more showy or use¬
ful than Poinsettias. Their gorgeously-coloured
heads of the most intense scarlet are attrac¬
tive above everything during the shortest days,
and even a few’ of them are capable of brighten¬
ing up stove, conservatory, or rooms in the most
pleasing manner w’hen lustrous flowers are scarce
and most appreciated. Everyone who has a
frame and greenhouse should try to grow some
of these, as they are not very extravagent in
their requirements, and they may be culti¬
vated to a most serviceable degree of perfection
with ordinary treatment. Our plants are over
by the end of January, and from that time until
the beginning of May they remain dormant
under the stage of a cool house. They are not
watered at this time, and have no attention.
About the beginning of May they are brought
out, watered thoroughly, and then placed in a
frame or house where the temperature is about
65 degs. Here they immediately begin to grow
and emit young shoots all up the stems. When
these are about 3 inches long they are taken off
as cuttings ; each one is detached with a heel,
i.e. t a very little piece of the old wood attached,
and they are inserted singly into the smallest
sized 2^-inch pots, which are filled with a half-
and-half mixture of leaf-soil and sand. They
are then plunged up to the rim of the pot in
sawdust in a hot-bed or Cucumber house, where
the bottom heat is about 70 degs. Here they
are not allowed to suffer for want of water,
although they do not require much until the
roots are formed, and they are also shaded from
bright sunshine. With these attentions roots
are soon made, and they are then withdrawn
from the bottom heat and placed on a shelf in
the pit. In a week or so after this they are
shifted into larger-sized pots. From 2^-inch
pots they are generally put into 3-inch ones, and
from the latter into 6-inch or 7-inch ones, and
in this size they are allowed to bloom the first
year.

In potting them we use a rough mixture of
turfy loam, sand, and leaf-soil. Proper drainage
is of the utmost importance, and firm potting
adds to success in culture, and in working with
them in this way great care is taken not to
injure the roots. They are plants which lose
much sap when injured, and this, having a
weakening tendency, must be avoided as much
as possible. After potting they are kept close
and shaded from the sun for a few days ; after¬
wards they are grown in all the light obtainable.
From the last pottings on until the middle of
September they do remarkably well in a cold
frame, and they should never be grown in a
strong heat at any time in summer, as this
causes them to make long, straggling growths,
which are neither ornamental noruseful. Dwarf
sturdy shoots always produce the finest heads,
and short plants are always more valuable than
long ones. Another way of securing serviceable
plants is to cut the old stems down to about a
foot from the bottom, and allow all the side
shoots which sprout out to grow. In this way
some of them may have six, eight, ten, or twelve
shoots, and as each of these will produce a
showy head, very attractive, or what might be
termed specimen ^plants, are tlje result. When

Digitized

they are treated in this way it is best to repot | heat, and they do not flower well at all if
the old plants, as soon as the young shoots are a do not get liberal treatment. We will phi

few inches long, and they may be potted again 1 -—* : -•- * - L ~ -

when growth is more advanced. As a rule we
bloom these branching shoots in 8-inch and
10-inch pots, and apart from allowing the shoots
to remain on in the place of taking them os
cuttings and the putting them into larger pots,
these plants are subject to exactly the same
treatment as those raised from cuttings. In
the autumn, or about one month before they
are required to be in full beauty, they are
taken into a warmer and drier atmosphere, and
here they soon develop their wondrous heads.

Throughout all the period of their growth the
greatest attention should be given to watering
them at the root, as allowing them to become
dry in any way causes the leaves to fall off pre¬
maturely, and then the heads are poor and use¬
less. — Cambrian.

:imen ^plants, are the result.

Go gle

Sweet-scented Geraniums.— Some of
these should be grown wherever cut flowers or
hand bouquets are in demand, the fragrance of
the foliage and its pleasing form rendering it
suitable for the choicest of floral combinations.
In the case of flowers which are mounted with
wire, the individual leaves may be used with
excellent effect. Supposing the flower to be
mounted is a Camellia, three good-sized leaves
are arranged round it and fixed in place by a
turn of the wire. The same may be done with
other flowers, such as Azaleas, Primulas, Violets,
&c., the smaller blooms being mounted three or
more together according to their size. The
form of the leaves of scented Geraniums better
fits them for this purpose than those of any
plant I know, as they clasp the flower naturally
and seem to fix and hold it in place, and if so
arranged that their much-divided ends project a
little, the formal outline which many choice
flowers present is much relieved. When the
plants are liberally grown throughout the sum¬
mer, good strong shoots will be available, which
cut entire will be found very serviceable for in¬
formal floral arrangements. In a trade establish
ment where bouquets were largely in demand
we used to grow a considerable quantity of
sweet-scented Geraniums for the sake of their
foliage, which was used in the manner abovo
described, only employing Maiden hair Fern for
finishing off round the outside of the bouquet.
Bouquets made with these sw T eet-scented
Geranium leaves have a very neat appearance
and are withal most gratefully perfumed.
Every year in June we used to fresh pot the
stock, which consisted of some hundreds, many
of them veterans from which thousands of
leaves had been cut; we discarded a portion of
the old soil, and gave them a free, tolerably rich
compost, rather richer than it is the custom to
give Geraniums generally, the object in this
case not being to induce a floriferous habit, but
rather a luxuriant growth with some exuberance
of leaf development. Were I again to grow
any number of sweet-scented Geraniums for the
sake of their foliage, I would certainly plant
them out, as if carefully lifted they do not
appear to suffer, the leaves not damping off as
is the case with zonals. The plants above
alluded to were wintered in a cool house
along with a collection of show Pelargoniums ;
they occupied the back portion of the structure,
needing less attention than anything else
therein ; and if an account of what they brought
in during the year could have been kept, it
would, I think, have been found that they were
am mg the most profitable plants, either tender
or hardy, grown in the establishment. From
November to June they might be said to be
daily earning money.—J.

11535. — Auriculas after blooming. —The

plants should now be repotted, separating the
offsets at the same time. The offsets should be
planted in small pots, and be placed in a close
hand glass. The old plants should be partially
shaken out of the old soil and be repotted again
in the same sized pots, placing tho plants in
frames against a wall or fence facing north,
Good potting soil is formed of four parts loam,
one of leaf-mould, one of decayed manure, and
ono of sand. Pot the plants rather firmly.—
J. D. E.

11529.—Plants failing.— The Arum Lilies
require rich compost to grow in. The reason
why they do not flower early is tho wont of

ours out immediately in Celery trench®, j
much the same material as the Celery is plutcd
in. They are abundantly supplied with w %vs
all through the summer. The hardiest Maidcv
hair Fern is Adiantum pedatum ; it is also veiy
handsome as a plant; but the fronds are not<il
much use to cut. The best for this purpose, &gf
also for culture in the greenhouse, is A.
cuneatum. They ought to be shaded, and i
hot house temperature suits them better this
that of a greenhouse.—J. D. E.

11530.— Azaleas and Rhododendrons.

—Your Azaleas ought now to be in blossom,?
they are not it will be owing to their not h&-pj|
set any blossom buds last year. The Aialeii
that you have seen flowering in January, Feb¬
ruary, and March have been forced to do ao bjj
artificial heat. Azalea amcena and A obtu*
flow’er early naturally ; but the Indian AzaJa*,
which are the best for the greenhouse, do vt
flower until May and June. They cost frc«
18s. to 30s. per dozen. The greenhouse Rhode
dendrons flower in winter in the greenhos-e.
The older varieties are sold from 3a 6d. to
5s. each, such as R. j&sminiflorum, R. j*w
nicum, R. Princess Alexandra, R. Priuoas
Alice, and R. Veitchianum. These have snail
flowers and are very pretty. The ordinal
varieties of R. ponticum are also grown in par
for forcing. —J. D. E.

WHY PLANTS DIE IN GARDENS.

Because most plants in a state of nana
grow amongst other vegetation, and their rooto
are in a more even temperature and more equi
state of moisture than they arc in pots ini
borders.

Because when a plant has finished floweriij
in a garden it is generally cut down before Ik j
leaves and stems have finished their services to
the plant, which starts for its next growth mill
less vigour in consequence.

Because the natural food of plants is ik|
rooted product of decaying vegetation^ t'l
mould, of which plants growing in ordmMT J
gardea borders receive but very scanty suppbs

Because garden borders are kept swept
garnished during winter, and the plants at
sequently lose the protection of their on ^
dead leaves and stems, as well as of otai ‘
dead leaves which the wind gathers about thaq
crowns.

Because this tidying up of all decayed leaves
causes all vermin, slugs, snails, wood lice, At*
to lay their eggs and congregate about tx
crowns of the plants as the only place vitto
they can find food and protection, and wbei«
they devour the shoots and buds in winter sc:
spring as fast as they appear, and kill the
plants. This, and not the frost, is the h®
cause of most blanks in spring.

Because garden borders arc noed, dug, forte
over, and tidied up at all seasons, causing *
continual tearing, wounding, and destruction®
the growing roots of the plants. Half t_
growing energy and life of the plants is in i-
tips of the young rootlets, and the loss of thes¬
is like the loss of nerve force and blood to *
human being, so that with continual distcN
ance of the roots a plant becomes weakly -
dies.

These, added to ordinary insect and ven^
depredations, are the principal reasons
plants refuse to thrive under ordinary gy

cultivation.

Grubs and Primroses. —Can you tell a*
how to kill the grubs, of which I have sentj* 3
two in a match-box. I had a great deal of trou *
last year with the same kind, and they have dc
completely spoilt a nice bed of Primroses
have tried lime, but the pest3 seem to get
lively.—J. A. [The grubs attacking
Primroses are generally known as :
Jackets, and arc the grubs of the Daddy-ton^
legs (Tipula olczacea). They are very dufr-
to kill, but may be more easily trapped J
taking small slices of potatoes, turnip, e
carrots, sticking a small wooden skewer m esc ,
and burying them near the plants *
inches below the surface, leaving the end o. <•
skewer exposed’to mark the place- Exanu 1

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

June: 7, 1834 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

157

TREES AND SHRUBS.

3 yrus Malua floribunda. —Among de-
uoua shrubs now in bloom none are more
>wy and beautiful than this Pyrus, crowded
it is with delicately tinted pink and white
*soms that hang in long sprays on the grace-
ly curving branches, which seem to be quite
ne down under their load. For planting as
specimens in conspicuous places on lawns,
s Pyrus is quite unrivalled. The best way
en used for this purpose is to have standards
:h tall clear stems, as in this form it displays
pendulous habit, and shows off its blossoms
Lii* greatest advantage. Grown among dwarf
ubs, with the heads standing clear out, this
rus b also exceedingly effective, as are like-
ie boshes of it in the foreground of evergreens,
ere it associates well with its congener
japonica, and also with Bcrberis Darwini
1 stenophyila, all of which are glowing with
>ur, and a most lovely and pleasing contrast
y make.—S. D. re

;— This plant increases in popularity, a fact
ich is easily accounted for, as when in flower
s so attractive as to be the admiration of
rybody. It is almost pendulous in habit,
when on its own roots, or grafted close to
ground, it forms a spreading shrub emi-
tly fitted for gardens of limited extent, as it
f be easily kept in bounds without in any way
troying its natural character. Isolated spe-
ens of it look well on Grass. Its blossoms,
ch are produced in the greatest profusion,
bright crimson in the bud state, and when
u a pleasing shade of pink. It is frequently
fted standard high, and so treated is very
sfactory, as the long, slender branches droop
^ very graceful manner.

lerberis japonica.— A large breadth of
*» Quite an acre in extent, has for years
□ed cover near here for rabbits and hares,
l not the slightest evidence of injury by eat-
it has ever been manifested. Being low
wing, dense, and exceedingly hardy, this
tens seems peculiarly adapted for forming
er, and the fruit produced every year in great
ntities forms most acceptable food for
nadaof song birds.—A.

ierberis Darwini and stenophylla.—
yone seeing these Berberises in flower cannot
to be struck with their beauty. Of the
b n. Darwini is perhaps the more striking,
account of its greater warmth of colour ; its
ssoms are deep orange, while those of B.
nophylla are more yellow, but the habit of
5 r ? ter i* better than that of B.

pvinL It has gracefully drooping branches,
icb render it very suitable for planting on
*work or in other elevated positions in which
s seen to advantage. B. Darwini is not at all
laitabie for the same purpose ; but where I
n* this variety looks best is in front of other
r growmg shrubs, from which it should be
i 4 8ta , nd out clear and free, not
.. A® both of these Berberises are so
nierous and so beautiful, the wonder is that
! y are not grown in pots for the early embel
nment of greenhouses or as window orna-
-nto as they may be kept to quite a small
e pinching them at the roots. The way
propagate these Berberises is by means of
the . branches lending themselves readily
n e of increase » especially those of B.

' pnyila which trail along the ground and
y require just burying to get them to root.

• J.seed freely and admit of being
■ 111 ^qantity in that -way. Sow when the
p vn, are , ripe in sllar P sa-ndy soil, and when
t are lar & e enou g h single them

nt • . tra f s P! ant * The best time to trans-
nrri 10 a season when I have always

•r* and °^ er evergreen Berberises to
Lf M when cau « ht i U8t before the buds
' /,y start off at once and soon get fresh
m °f the soil.—S.

have for several years tried
S "Uitletoe, but wfithout success till this
'Ctmaf 1 ^° t 1 . 8Om0 really ripe plump berries
V u "orcestershire, and served them
nlv 1 k?r at * he berry and held the seed
“ ln 8 ^ on t° tbe smooth bark until
to adhere by its own slime. I then
»in* ** ature > an< f was rewarded b

a the Uttlc green spurs bnS&fcing throu.

Digitized by

the seed about six weeks after sowing. It is
most important to tie a little gauze over the
seed, for the birds are greedily fond of these
seeds and will pick them even after growth has
bog 1111 * as I have found to my coat. My garden
is in Lincolnshire, where Mistletoe does not
grow in a wild state.— Chrysanthemum.

VEGETABLES.

ASPARAGUS, OR BUDA KALE.

If asked which I found to be the most profitable
quarter in the kitchen garden during winter
and spring, say from February to the end of
May, I would unhesitatingly decide in favour
of that devoted to Asparagus Kale. In fact,
but for this kind we should have had no greens
for a considerable time this spring. Brussels
Sprouts, Broccoli, Scotch Kale, and Cabbage
were not proof against, first, the continuous
heavy rains, and, subsequently, the cold, frosty
winds, and none of them have succeeded at all
well. Asparagus Kale, however, is not easily
destroyed or materially checked in growth, and
we have been able to gather immense quantities
of really delicious greens from a comparative
small piece of ground. There appears to be dif¬
ferent forms of it, one being tall growing, and two
others dwarf in habit, varying only in colour. Of
the latter we grow the darkest and presumably the
hardiest, and this is fully equal in quality and
quite as prolific as that with green stalks and
leaves. The latter, however, is the best for the
markets, the buyers in this and in many other
cases being influenced by colour. I do not de¬
pend upon seedsmen for the seed, but annually
save a few strong plants to produce seed for
myself. It is easily grown. Our seed is
generally sown early in April, the plants being
now just pricked out, and will not be finally
transplanted till a crop of either early Potatoes,
Strawberries, Peas, or Turnips is cleared off.
It really deserves better management, but space
is limited, and it must be treated as a succes-
sional crop. Last season the stock was planted
immediately after a breadth of early Straw¬
berries was cut away, the ground being merely
hoed over and all rubbish burnt. Drills were
drawn with a heavy hoe midway between the
old Strawberry lines, these being 30 inches
apart, and the Kale plants were transplanted
with a good ball of soil about the roots, and
disposed 2 feet asunder in the rows. In dry
seasons in similar cases we find it necessary to
repeatedly fill the drills with water till
thoroughly soaked, substituting, when possible,
liquid manure at the last soaking. This facili¬
tates planting, and besides insures a good
start.

The drills are kept open, as water has to
be given occasionally till the plants are well
established, the soil being then levelled over after
the last watering that is considered necessary.
Firm ground is selected, and the same method of
planting is adopted in the case of much of the
Broccoli grown here, for the well-known reason
that sturdy, and, therefore, more hardy, growth
results than is the case where loose ground is
devoted to them. The Asparagus Kale being
hardier than Broccoli, the Broccoli in small
gardens should preferably have the most open sites
os well as firm ground. For instance, they may be

f lanted between the widely-dispersed rows of
otatoes, or in succession to Strawberries, early
Peas, and Beans, while the Kale will grow freely
and yet be hardy if planted between the rows
of main crops and late Peas, among fruit trees,
and in other positions unsuitable for many other
crops. As it is getting late to sow the seeds of
any kinds of winter greens, including Asparagus
Kale, I should advise those who may feel
disposed to give this Kale a trial to sow the
seed thinly in drills where the plants are to
remain. It the rows are drawn about 2 feet
apart, and the plants eventually thinned to
about 15 inches asunder, the ground in all
probability will be well covered and a profitable
crop realised. Seeds may thus be sown or plants
be dibbled in between the rows of Peas, as just
advised, instead of Spinach, which, during hot
weather, seldom proves profitable. In preparing
Asparagus Kale for the table, we do not trim
the leaves off the Btalks, cooking and eating
them under the impression that they are equal
to Asparagus. They are decidedly very succulent
an$ good, but are cooked with the leaves as

other Kales are, and in this manner we have a
wholesome “second vegetable,” and one of
which we never tire.

Grower and Exhibitor.

Spinach and its substitutes.— Among
the many garden esculents in common use during
the summer, few, if any, give more trouble or are
so difficult to provide as Spinach ; no sooner do
the plants appear above ground than they run
to seed, and the leaves which one is then able
to get are but few and small, stringy, and unfit
to cook. These remarks apply to the ordinary
variety, but fortunately there is w’hat is called
New Zealand Spinach, which forms an excellent
substitute, ana though, perhaps, not equal to
spring and winter samples of the old kind,
becomes valuable after this time of the year.
The best way to get it early is to sow in pots,
putting two or three seeds in each, wben they
should be placed in a Cucumber frame or other
warm place to get them to germinate, and
grow tho plants strong and large before turn¬
ing them out. This may be done by the first
or second week in June, but it is necessary to
harden them off a little at first, so as to fit
them to hear the change and exposure. As the
habit of New Zealand Spinach is to spread, it
requires some amount of room. A good place to
plant it is on the top of any heap of waste
soil or old exhausted notbeds, or any position
of that kind where it has plenty of room and
something in the way of rotten manure or other
rich material on which to feed. It may also be
grown between trenches of Celery, but where-
ever planted the situation should be a hot,
sunny one, or the progress of the plants will bo
slow. The only way of keeping up a supply of
the old Bort till the New Zealand comes in is to
sow frequently on cool, shady borders or between
rows of Pe&s, and that the leaves may be as
large and succulent as it is possible to have
them, the ground should be heavily manured
and the plants thinned out to a good distance
apart. One of the best, if not the best, substi¬
tutes for Spinach is the Silver Beet, which is
ouite worth sowing and growing, as during the
driest and hottest weather there are always
plenty of fine juicy leaves to be had from it. Its
culture is very simple—all that is needful is to
draw a shallow drill, deposit the seed in it,
and when the Beet comes up to thin the plants
out, leaving them about 13 inches apart.—S.

11548.— Rhubarb dying down.— As it
was planted early in the present year, that will
account for its making but little growth at
present. The weather has been so dry that
even established plants are looking badly. Givo
yours a good watering and place a thick dressing
of decayed manure over the surface of the
ground. It will make a strong second growth
in a few weeks. If moles are burrowing under
the plants they should be trapped, and tread
round each plant with the feet to make them
firm again.—J. D. E.

11552.— Guoumbers in oold frames.—

It will be best to make up a bed of fermenting
manure, and place your frame over it. You
might begin to grow Cucumbers early in March.
The seeds Bhould be sown in pots, and grow
them to a good size in 5-inch pots. Make a hill
of good loam in the centre of each light, and
on it plant the Cucumber plant. When it lias
arrived at the fruiting stage, put about 6 inches
of soil all over the surface of the bed, and as
the bines of the Cucumber plants grow they
must be pegged down to the soil, and they will
root into it at the joints.—J. D. E.

Young Carrots.— Where these are in
regular request, as long as the weather will
favour their growth, sowings must be made.
For the first sowing we put up a hotbed about
the end of January, and in order to secure a
lasting temperature we use three parts leaves
and one of stable manure. A frame furnished
with glass lights is put on the bed, and about 6
inches of rather fine soil is placed in that on the
surface. The seed is sown in drills 6 inches
apart. Only an ordinary degree of attention is
required in the way of watering, covering, and
air-giving in order to produce young Carrots as
large as one’s finger by the end of April, aud
this is the size most in favour. The first crop
to be obtained from the open ground should
be sown early in February on a warm south
border, the soil of which is light and rich.
The most skiolterxi position should be selected,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jck* 1 , 1S84

where they are not likely to feel the
effects of late spring frosts, for even on
south borders there is often a great difference as
regards frost effects. For pulling when young
I like all outdoor crops to be sown broadcast,
and thinned if they come up rather thicker in
places than is required. Where the demand is
great another sowing should be made the third
week in March, near that first sown. These
two crops will invariably carry on the supply
until the main crop, which is generally sown
early in April, comes into use. To maintain a
supply of successional crops a fresh sowing
must be made in the open ground once a month
up to the middle of August, after which the
Beason will be too far advanced for sowing out-
of-doors. For summer crops the seed may be
sown in any part of the garden that is fully
exposed to the sun; but as a large space for
each sowing is unnecessary, a south border is as
suitable a place as any for them. I may
mention here that I like the old English
Short Horn as well as any of the sorts
for drawing when young. In gardens
where pits and frames cannot be devoted to the

E reduction of a supply through November and
>ecember it is a good plan to sow a rather
large breadth on a south border about the
middle of August, and when frost occurs in
November to cover the young plants up
with dry leaves or Bracken. This will
afford a supply for several weeks, but they
will not be so fresh and tender as those pro¬
tected by glass lights and kept free from frost;
therefor* where a brick pit can be spared it
should be used for them. Bottom heat is not a
necessity in this case, but the pit must be filled
with half-rotten manure or some other material,
and 6 inches or 8 inches of soil should be put on
the top of it so as to bring the surface within
10 inches of the glass. The seed should be sown
the second or third week in August, but the
lights need not be put on until the middle of
October ; even after that time, however, plenty
of air must be given, and the glass protected
during frosty weather. In ordinary seasons a
supply from this source ought to be obtained up
to the middle of December.—C. C.

HOUSE <fe WINDOW GARDENING.

Plants suitable for permanent culti¬
vation in rooms. —A selection from the follow¬
ing list will give pretty and permanent groups.
Aralia Sieboldi (two variegated forms), A. quin-
quefolia, A. q. gracilis, A. heteromorpha,
Dianella tasmanica, Aspidistra lurida and A. 1.
variegata, Dracaena australis and D. a. congesta,
Rhodea japonica and the variegated varieties,
Griselinia lucida, Lomatias of different sorts,
Asplenium bulbiferum, various Scolopendriums,
Farfugium grande, Ligularia Kaempferi, Pittos-
porum tenuifolium and eugenioides, Yucca
Wbipplei, Y. albospica and angustifolia; Choisya
ternata is also a most distinct and accom¬
modating shrub. I have seen various Bamboos
tried for indoor decoration, but always with
unsatisfactory results. Both forms of Aspidistra
prefer a shady situation, as of course will the
lew Ferns mentioned. If these are kept well
supplied with water at the root the atmosphere
will always be moist enough. Occasional spong-
ings of the foliage is of importance, os also is a
good shower-bath outside, either with tepid
water from a watering-pot, or a warm shower of
rain.—W.

Good room and window plants.—I
have had an Aspidistra lurida variegata in the
same pot for nearly seven years. During that
time it has not lost more than three or four
leaves, whilst its robust growth has enabled me
to give a friend a piece of it which rivals its
parent. The young leaves are beautifully
striped and have a rich and glossy appearance.

I have always kept it with a plentiful supply of
water at the roots, in ordinary Fern soil, spong¬
ing the leaves from time to time as required.
For the last two or three years I have, in filling
my window boxes, placed an Aralia Sieboldi
in the centre, with scarlet Pelargoniums,
Lobelias, Ageratums, and Calceolarias flanking
it, and very effective the grouping is, the rich
green, Palm-like leaf of the Aralia contrasting
well with the scarlet and blue. My boxes were
made of plain half-inch deal boards, and covered
•n the outside with virgin cork, the cost being
not more than th,ree'shillings each box.—A. ° I

Digitized by ^tQOP

Perns in rooms.— Having seen several
accounts of Ferns in rooms, I take the liberty of
telling you of mine, and, being in very humble
circumstances, perhaps a 3hort history of my
Fernery and collection of Ferns may interest
some readers, and perhaps cause them to get a
collection. So to begin. Some three years ago,
being out of work, I was recommended to get
some Ferns to sell. At that time I was not
aware of any other sorts than the common
Bracken. I went in search for them, and found
some and took them home. Then I found I had
started too soon, bo had to transplant them in
the garden till I could find people willing to
buy them, which I found was the hardest job,
as many of them were too common. At the end
of the season I had a large surplus stock, so I
thought I would try some in pots, and I am

f deased to say I have so far succeeded that my
ittle home would not be like home without
them. My wife cannot get into the country.
She has her Fernery indoors. She lias got from
30 to 40 in the house in pots. She has them in
pots so that she can distribute them all over our
living-room. We find it does not do to put them in
the window as the sun soon changes the colour.
I must tell you ours are all common, but just
now they look grand, and if anyone were to
take away our Ferns it would be like taking
away our furniture.—J. Graham.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

The Cherry.

Kent is undoubtedly the home of the Cherry
and the Nut, but the Hazel Nut and the wild
Cherry flourishes wherever the soil is dry and
good, a fertile loam of some depth overlying
clay being the best. But I have seen healthy
and fertile Cherry trees growing over the red
sandstone formation ; and, so far as garden
culture is concerned, any fairly good well-
drained land will do. The blossoms of Cherries
are specially liable to be cut off by spring frosts,
and therefore shelter is a matter that must not
be neglected ; but the trees must not be planted
in a low-lying situation, as the shelter so
obtained from winds will lead to greater damage
from the frost, as it is well known that such
positions very frequently prove fatal.

As a Standard

On Grass the Cherry is a very profitable tree,
but the orchard should not be laid down till the
trees are well established, and in a free-bearing
condition, say in about from six to ten years
after planting. Like the Plum, the Cherry
soon begins to bear, as every matured bud
will produce fertile blossoms. It is not
well to overcrowd the trees, as where this
is done they lose that beautiful round head
which, when loaded with blossom in spring or
with fruit in summer, has such an ornamental
appearance. From 20 to 25 feet in orchard
planting will not be too far apart. The land
might carry a crop of black Currants the first
ten years, and then be laid down to Grass. Such
an orchard would, I have no doubt, pay well.
A handsome Standard Cherry tree will be no
mean ornament in any conspicuous position in
the Villa Garden. There are many trees
planted for ornament, lacking its beauty, with¬
out taking into account its utility as a fruit-
bearer. The Cherry dislikes the knife on
account of its predisposition to gumming and
canker. On some soils this tendency is more
apparent than on others, and this matter should
be observed closely, and where the soil ap¬
proaches heaviness the knife should be used
sparingly, if at all. Standards, after they
commence bearing, will require but little
pruning, as the crop of fruit which is annually
borne in favourable situations will check over
luxuriance. At the same time the trees should
be looked over every year, and if any thinning
is needed it Bheuld be done.

Cherries on Walls.

To prolong the season, to obtain early and
late fruit, and for their protection, wherever
there is a walled-in garden, a certain
proportion of the wall surface will be planted
with Cherries. The May Duke, for instance, on
a south or east wall will ripen its fruit early,
and a dish of well-ripened Cherries is always a
welcome addition to the dessert. The Morello
Cherry, again, on the north side of the wa}l,

may be kept in good condition till October, bti
at that season may be used in the dessert,
though it is more thought of when preserved in
brandy. The Cherry submits readily to train
ing. To cover a high wall quickly, there u ao
better way than planting Palmettes 7 feet or
9 feet apart. The fan system also sacceeds well,
but the less the knife is used the betters
wounds or injuries of all kinds are just bo mas?
openings for gumming. If the cuts could tx
dressed with Stockholm tar or painters’ hot
ting, or even a little cement rubbed into thf
wound to close up the lacerated cells, it would
by keeping out air encourage healing.

Pruning Cherries.

The safest time to prune Cherries is a
summer, and all pruning, as far as possible,
should be done at that season, cutting tie
young foreright shoots back to three buds or
leaves, and laying in a young shoot wherere- |
there is space to fill up. It is very essential t:
keep up the vigour and bearing capacities of tie
tree, to lay in young shoots occasionilh.
Cherries on the spur system are oonaUfitlr
getting further from the wall, and the old spun
become a receptacle for canker.

Renovating Old Trees.

I have seen all the old spurs cut off, tii
wounds dressed with some impervious iab-
stance, doing the work in March, thinning oa
the young shoots which started freely, and hy¬
ing in those reserved at full length without any
shortening; the wood ripened well, and bon
wonderfully the next season, the fruit bekg
very fine. This system in the case of old tree
may be adopted and continued with profit 0! :
course, after the first season only a limited Dunkr
of the shoots will be removed annually, tbs: j
places being filled with others of the new growth j
The Morello Cherry is always treated in tbs
manner, only thinning the young shook a
summer so as to insure the thorough maturatis
of those left for the following year’s crop.
Overcrowding of the branches is one of t&
greatest evils of fruit culture, especially with
such trees as Morello Cherries and Peach*

Bush Cherries.

These are usually budded on the Matafc:
stock, and in some situations succeed very well
It is a system letter adapted to the early wi
late Dukes than others, such as the Bigarrea^
These later varieties do not like a dwark
system ; they succeed best when permitted ta *
strike out with but little knife work. Tfce ;
Morello succeeds very well on the Maiulet,
being lifted occasionally to check over taiun-
ance, should any manifest itself. Heavy clay
soils require a good deal of lightening befon
Cherries are planted. The best way of doing tba
is to burn some of the clay early in spring afta
it has been exposed to the drying influent™
March winds. This treatment will improv?
heavy land for all cultural purposes beside
fruit growing. I think I need uot say mac.
more about pruning and training, further tba
that care should be exercised not to prune more
than is necessary, and not use more nails ew
ties than a bare sufficiency to keep the brawn!*
in order and steady. There is frequently a &
of time and material wasted in training
trees. Just as many attachments should «
used as are needed to keep the branches w*
straight and no more, and plenty of row
between the branches and the ligature show
be left to allow for swelling.

Propagating Cherry Trees.

I have an acquaintance, a working maD, *-
has a garden in which he takes great inters
and he has often amused himself in pla^
fruit-tree seeds, such as Cherries, Plums, 4c,
and he has raised a lot of Cherries,
are now in full bearing, and are health
and strong. He, so far as I have seem h* 3
nothing better than the old-established kiflw,
but I somehow think there seems more than me .
average vigour in them, which some miga
think arose from their being seedlings un¬
worked. But, whether it is so or not, 1 ^
recommend all who have a garden, to plant a ,
few seeds of fruit trees, taking pains, of course,
to obtain the seeds from the best-flavour^
fruit. As soon as the seedlings appear lunlc*
it be intended to bud established kinds upv
them) they .- rqayibe led\]yL in a single stem -

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Just 1 , 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

159

mi standards. They may stand rather close
each other till they bear, when they should
: planted out finally if the fruit is of average
lality. If the young tree has harked back to
» wild condition, then it may be budded
hen strong enough in August. It will thus
> seen that raising seedling fruits, such as
lerries, Plums, Apples, and Pears, will, if it
>es nothing else, give us a lot of young
•althy stocks for working established kinds
pon. But if followed intelligently and per-
atently it -will do something else besides
sing a constant source of interest, it may lead
»the production of varieties worth perpetu-
ing. At any rate it cannot lose us anything,
id there may be a great gain.

Watering and Mulching.

In dry weather the bulk and weight of the
rop will be much increased by a few good soak-
igs of liquid manure during the swelling of the
■uit. I remember some years ago a very large
Id Waterloo Cherry tree, standing on Grass,
lat was watered regularly in dry summers
■ora a rivulet near, and it was wonderful how
ipidly the Cherries grew' under the combined
inuences of moisture and sunshine. It is not
ell to pick off stones from land to be planted
ith Cherries. Stones serve a wise purpose in
lore ways than one. They are conservators
f moisture, and they also tend to keep the soil
peu and assist the natural drainage.

Bcsh Cherries in Pots.

A few early dishes may generally be obtained
l this way if there is a cool glasshouse to
belter them when in flower, in the same way as
have recommended for Plums ; in fact, the
ame treatment that suits one will do for the
ther. The May Duke is the earliest for this
urpose, but others, such as Governor Wood, are
ood. The soil should be firmly pressed or
amraed in the pot, as all stone fruit succeed
«st in a firm root run.

Sheltering the Blossoms.

The Cherry expands its flowers about the
ametiraeaa the Plum, and though in the case
f large orchard trees protection is out of the
ue;tiou, yet wall trees may be easily protected
□ the same way I have recommended for Plums,

• ith fishing nets. Small bush Cherries may be
»rotected by having sprays of yew tree tied
.mong the branches. Flimsy materials have a
;reat protective power in warding off spring
rats. The ripe fruits must be protected from
Jirds, blackbirds being especially troublesome.

Insects and Diseases.

The black fly or aphis is the most troublesome
infesting the Cherry, and if it makes its
ippearance it should bo attacked at once and no
farter given. The black fly takes more killing
. “ ot h® r species, but it always succumbs
•o iobacco, either in the shape of powder dusted
iinong the infested leaves, or as a wash. Soft
»°ip, a solution of gishurst compound the same,
*7 88 lQfusiou °* Quassia chips, are all useful,
‘na the soap-3ud8 from the laundry may be used,
aithey have a great cleansing power, and where
wts congregate th© trees soon get filthy.
Hamming is the worst and most troublesome
ea.% attacking stone fruits, the Cherry on
aie soils suffering much from it. Its effect is
a^t frequently seen on heavy cold lands. The
^remedy is to cut away ail infected
a wounds with Stockholm tar.

the Fig. There, aspect or soil is a matter to
which but little consideration need be given, as
the Fig thrives with its roots running down
into the blue gault of Sussex, as well as on the
lighter strata overlying the chalk. But in the
midland counties, and most other districts of
England, good Figs may be had by adopting the
proper system of culture. I have had as good
Figs in the midlands as I used to gather twenty-
five years ago in Sussex, and their value in
August and September is very considerable as
an addition to the dessert.

Preparing the Border.

The border must have a good aspect, a full
southern exposure being necessary. A warm
corner where a southern and eastern wall meet
and form an angle will do, part of the tree or
trees being trained on both walls. Though aspect
has much to do with success, it is not everything,
the formation and composition of the border being
of equal if not greater importance. The depth
of soil need not be great, never more than
2 feet, and in low, damp places 18 inches, raised
a little above the surface will be enough. The
bottom should be dry—this is imperative. A
concrete foundation, sloping to the front, being
desirable for at least 4 to 5 feet in width. The
soil should be a sound loam of medium cha¬
racter, to which crushed bones and some old
mortar is added. No other manure need be
mixed with the soil. The proportion of the
bones may be one cwt. to a ton of loam, or, say,
one in 20 parts. The borders need not be very
wide, 6 feet will be ample at first. More may
be given as time passes, but the secret of success
in Fig culture is in never losing touch or control
over the roots. The borders may be made in
February or March, and the plants be obtained
and set out in April or May, when all danger of
frost is past. Plant at first about 12 feet apart,
and rearrange afterwards, as the plants require
more space. Make the soil firm about the
roots, and mulch to keep the border moist
and encourage the roots to keep near the sur¬
face.

Training.

Few follow any given system very severely ;
the fan merging into the horizontal is a good one,
and is often adopted. The horizontal, pure and
simple, inasmuch as it keeps the branches thin
on the wall, is to be commended, but it does not
seem natural to the Fig, and is not generally
employed, still it possesses advantages. More
often the Fig is trained in a haphazard kind of
way, with the view of covering the wall quickly.
Very frequently the branches are trained verti¬
cally. This leads to the bottom of the wall
being denuded of all fruiting wood, and much
space is wasted. Whatever system of traihing
is adopted the branches must be trained thinly,
not less than a foot apart, so that the warmth of
the sun can strike the wall between the leaves
and ripen fruit and wood, for the sun is just as
necessary to one as the other. Disbudding
should be done early, and all shoots not required
should be rubbed off when small. This is very
necessary, more so north of London than
south of that point. The young shoots left
should be laid in full length unstopped,
as in outdoor culture stopping is of no
advantage. As the fruit advances towards
ripening, liquid manures should be given to im¬
part increased size, and the roots should be
mulched with manure with the same object of

__ _ giving support at the moment needed. This is

gumming, lik e canker, is seldom troublesome rauc b better than building the border of richer
^ tees in a healthy thriving condition with I materials, wherein lies the danger of encouraging

grossness of habit. All fruit on the young
wood that have attained the size of a Hazel Nut
in September should be rubbed off, as they
generally fail to grow in spring, and only use¬
lessly exhaust the trees. The small fruits just
visible in the bud or embryo state are the most
valuable for next year’s crop.

Protecting in Winter.

Before severe frost comes the branches should
he unfastened from the wall, and be drawn
together and covered with dry straw, securing
it with strands of strong matting or tar-line.
In this condition they will remain till April,
when, all danger having passed away, towards
the end of the month the coverings may be taken
off, and after a few day’s exposure what pruning
is required should be done.

Pruning.

, healthy thriving condition with
to an- D ? r 8urface - Therefore, in our efforts
csow 'X we muat fir8t ascertain the

ii, k :7 « trees are made more suscepti-

oaimonW P ^ r00ting “ a bad 8ubsoil > wb ich is
.Muy the caae > the roots must be lifted and

,1*7 UU(ler More favourable conditions. And
if ?!!! 8 j rea 8 h°uld be taken by cutting away
dressing the wounds with
kCeP ° Ut air aDd de8tr ° y aH
y V ARIETIE3.

ihvMiF' 11 ? 16 ^ ean » Elton * Governor Wood,
WbRi \ « Duke ’ R °y al Duke < Knight’s
-7 Jhgarreau, Napoleon, Waterloo,

tfc Kentish, and Morcllo. Many of

6 are adapted for orchard planting.

Vs 4ll vr!li^ e ? k° r( l er ing °n bhe^oulhern CQjJt L As regards pruning, the young wood being 1
u adapted for the (^e^^rjc lit Jrj <|f^Htkinned out well in summer, there will be little

The Fig.

to do beyond cutting back dead shoots, or an
occasional removal of a large branch which has
become naked at the bottom with the view of
letting in a young shoot to take its place.
This will be necessary to a certain extent annu¬
ally, as without it there would be a difficulty in
keeping all parts of the wall furnished with
bearing wood, as the Fig bears only on the
young wood of the previous year ; and, in order
to keep up a constant supply of young fertile
wood without overcrowding, we must annually
cut out a branch here and there to open up the
tree, and make space to lay in young wood.
In carrying this out the pruner endeavours to
cut away only such branches as are by reason
of their nakedness in a barren condition. In
this way a constant renewal of fertility is
assured without any such drastic measures as
heading back.

Transplanting.

Figs of any age and size may be moved, if
done carefully, without sacrificing a crop, April
being the best month for the work. Trees
makinggross, unfertile wood, may have their roots
lifted then, and brought near the surface, using
the compost I have recommended in what I have
written on the preparation of the borders. It
may be advisable in transplanting or lifting
large old trees, involving some sacrifice of the
roots, to prune the branches rather severely
for the special purpose of making openings for
laying in the new short-join ted wood which
will follow the placing the roots under better
conditions.

Watering.

In dry weather this will be necessary in hot
summers when the fruits are swelling rapidly,
and, as I have already hinted, liquid manure and
mulching will be of advantage. The young wood
should be nailed in close to the wall as it pro¬
gresses to keep it from shading the swelling,
ripening fruits, and also to facilitate the ripening
of the wood by bringing it into contact with
the warm face of the wall.

Propagation.

Though Figs may be raised from seeds, layers,
suckers, and cuttings, the best way of increas¬
ing established kinds is by cuttings of ripened
young wood taken off with a heel of that which
is older. The cuttings may be from 8 inches
to 10 inches long, and should be planted firmly
in sandy loam under a hand light, where during
the winter protection can be given. A better
plan would Tt>e to plant the cuttings in pots and
place in the greenhouse or a vinery, or some
such place. The cuttings should be taken as
soon as the leaves fall in autumn. They will
make nice little well-rooted plants in a year.
Figs are often propagated by layers— i.e., by
bringing some of the branches down to the
ground, and, after notching them near a joint,
pegging them into the soil or heaping soil over
them, in which position they must remain till
rooted. Raising Figs from seeds is not much
practised as the seedlings vary a good deal in
character. Plants obtained from suckers are
not equal to those from cuttings or layers, being
much longer into coming into bearing, and never
altogether losing that gross, unfertile habit
which is attached to their nature. Cuttings
taken from a fruiting part of a tree are always
better than if taken from the roots.

Varieties.

The best varieties for open air culture are
Brown Turkey, a very abundant bearer, the
tree being hardy and healthy, and is also good
under glass, forcing well; Brunswick, perhaps
a trifle less prolific than the preceding, out yet
an excellent Fig ; White Marseilles, a round
fruit of good quality.

E. Hobday.

Catching Slug's* —There have been many
inquiries in your valuable and interesting paper
as to ways and means of getting rid of slugs. I
think the bran trap a very easy and effectual
wav of lessening their number. I simply drop
little heaps of bran here and there on the flower
beds, and after supper take a small lantern, a
trowel, and an old basin with some salt in it,
and catch hundreds—the most after rain. We
are moat troubled with the leather-coated grub,
and a large handsome creature like a snail,
without a shell, beautifully marked with dark
spots. The bran heaps renewing about"

once a week.— Routh.

UREANA-CHAMPAIGN

1(30

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Junk 7, 1884,

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11556.—Tho name required by Datchct la probably
Stellaria graminea,

11560.—I can loti '* Primrose Avenue” havo what ho
requires next autumn.—S amikl Wihthway, Kingskerswell,
Devonshire.

11545.— Fixing boiler.—You >nust certainly have a
rUe from the boiler to the syphon, and if the rise is
I) inchea, so much tho better. Your idea as to the natural
flow of water is quite correct.—H. H. V.

11562. -Heating by kitchen boiler.— You would
not find your water circulate if taken from the cylinder.
Cun vou not take a separate supply from the kitchen
boiler ?—H. H. V.

115G6.— Best boilers.— I And a boiler (Independent)
made by Portway and Son, Halstead, Essex, one of the
host for the purpose named. It burns twelve hours with¬
out attention.—H. H. V.

11536.— Daffodi Is pale in colour. - A little powdered
charcoal mixed in the soil will improve the colour of your
Daffodils. Take them up when the leaves fade, prepare
the bed, and plant at once.—M. C.

11540.— Sphagnum Moss.—' This grows in marshes
in many districts of Great Britain and Ireland. It is
usually found in the water ; it i9 pale green in appearance,
soft to the touch, and when it is pulled out of the water it
does not seem to have any root-hold.—I. D. E.

11571.—The contents of a 2s. Gd. pot of Hesters’ Magic
Paste, to be obtained of Messrs. Hester, Roseberry Cottage,
Mayflcld-road, Dalston, N.E., put about on pieces of refuse
plate glass at night where the cockroaches are seen will
soon clear the house infested by these pests.—X.-Y. Z.

11549.—Slugs and seedlings.—If you steep a strip
of old cloth or calico in paraffin oil and twist it round the
pots, your seedlings will be saved from slugs. It need not
go round each pot, but in and out through them. Soot
put under the pots will also keep off slugs.—M. C.

11530.— Daffodils failing.—These plants root deeply
into the ground, and require deep, rich Boil, well worked
up, and when dry weather sets in before the bulbs are
ripened they ought to be watered. There can be no
sufficient reason for yours doing so badly if you give them
ordinary care, os they succeed well in light, medium, and
heavy loam. They do worst in light, gravelly soil.—J. D. E.

11545.—Heating a greenhouse.— The
best and also the most economical way of ar¬
ranging the hotwater pipes in your house, 30
feet long, is to allow a rise to the furthest point
from the boiler of about 9 inches. The flow
pipe should be fixed at the highest point of the
boiler, and the return pipe at the lowest; the
air pipe at the highest part of the flow pipe,
that is at the point furthest from the boiler.
The supply cistern ought to be near the boiler,
and attached to the return pipe by a half-inch
lead pipe. All the principal hothouse builders
work on that principal.—J. D. E.

11541.—Varnish on hot water-pipes.
—The best thing to do in your case would be to
encourage the trees to start into growth again.
This can be done by syringing them daily and
keeping the house rather close. It would not
be necessary to cut them down—in fact, it
might be injurious to them to do so. You will
have no fruit this year, and the whole effort of
the trees will be made to produce bearing wood
for next season. The best paint for hot water-
pipes is lampblack and oil, laid on while the
pipes are hot.—J. D. E.

11573.—Tropseolum tuberosum, which
is probably meant by Mr. H. L. Greville
(though he calls it T. bulbosum) is nearly, but
not quite, hardy, so requires deep planting and
covering with a heap of leaves, ashes, or litter
to protect it from frost in winter. Any good
soil will do, but it likes a sunny aspect, as
when in shade it does not grow till too late in
the season to enable it to perfect its flowers
before cut down by autumn frosts. It re¬
sembles a small deep orange red Nasturtium in
form, and looks well scrambling through and
hanging from the branches of a small Apple
tree when planted at its base. T. speciosum is
absolutely hardy, but most capricious, and will
only succeed in certain soils and situations. Its
blooms are scarlet, succeeded by blue berries.
It is a much handsomer plant than T. tuberosum.
—W. E. G.

11531.—Flies in Vinery.—I have lately
built a small grapery, which I have pur
posely made fly-proof, as far as that could be
effected. It has a ventilation running the whole
length of the front, immediately above ground,
filled with perforated zinc, and covered outside
of that with hinged wooden flaps, to be opened
or shut as occasion may require. The upper
ventilators, of ample size, are in the gables
immediately under the ridge of the roof,
and are also filled with perforated zinc,
but are not blocked-oi* shut with anything, nor
intended to do so.^lh<jj^jh mt fixture.

Thus there is no opening by which flies can
enter except the door, ana that is kept shut as
much as possible. Notwithstanding this, the
air inside is always sweet and fresh, owing, I
suppose, to the complete ventilation. I use no
artificial heat, but the thermometer in the
middle of the day is frequently above 90 degs.
—J. M.

11572.— Bulbs, tubors, conns.- A bulb
is an underground bud, composed of numerous
fleshy scales, from the centre of which the
plant grows. The roots of a bulb are from its
own base. Example : The Onionlmd Hyacinth
tuber is an underground stem of a fleshy
character, which is formed annually, contain¬
ing the stored-up juices of one year for the
formation of the plant in the next. As soon as
the plant is above ground and fully grown, the
tuber dies, and the plant meantime has
formed numerous others tubers. A tuber does
not root of itself, the roots coming from the
base of the growing plant, where it starts from
the tuber. Examples : Potato, Orchis, and
that deservedly execrated plant, the Lesser
Celandine. Corm.—A corm is similar to a
tuber, but differs from it in being perennial,
and is formed directly from the seed ; whereas,
both bulbs and tubers are produced by the
plant itself, after it has been raised from seed.
A corm increases yearly in size, and does not
wither away, neither are other corms produced
by the plant. A corm has roots springing from
all parts of its surface. Examples : Cyclamen,
Tropaeolum, and certainly what are called
“ tuberous ” Begonias; at least, my plants have
corms, and not tubers. Your correspondent
must not expect nurserymen to be critical
botanists.—J. R. N.

- I think I can explain the distinction be¬
tween bulbs, tubers, and corms, to “ Bulbero-
sium.” A tuber has the power of producing
rootlets and buds from several parts of its sur¬
face, as the Potato—indeed, a dilated under¬
ground root. A bulb produces “ rootlets at the
lower extremity and a bud at the other. It
consists of fleshy scales, as in the White Lily,
or concentric circles, as in the Onion, or is of
one uniform substance throughout, as in the
Crocus. This last is sometimes called a corm.”
I quote from Johns’ “ Flowers of the Field,”
because the language is simpler than that of
most other botanical works I possess.—H.
Henry Powel.

11549.—Seedlings eaten by slugs.—
If the plants are destroyed it was your own
fault. By the aid of a lamp, and a careful
scrutiny on three successive nights, you might
have picked off and destroyed every one of them.
They are found feeding after it is dark at night.
Soot dusted on the leaves makes them un¬
comfortable, and kills many of them. Quick¬
lime dusted over the plants at night when they
are feeding is also very destructive to them.—
J. D. E.

A. A. II .—We received your letter and a piece of cotton

wool in a box, but no insocts.- W. E. M .—The leaves

very thin and poor. We should think the roots were in an
sent are unhealthy state, or else the trees have suffered
from want of water. We will insert your question.

Names of Plants.— IT. H. J.—l, Helleborus

foetidus ; 2, Smilax mauritanica.- G. W. —1, Centranthus

ruber ; 2, Mellisa officinalis variegata ; 3, Phalaris arundi-

nacea; variegata; 4, Agrosteimna coronaria.- F. II.

Jones .—Cytisus Adnmi. Not an uncommon occurrence.

- T. Graham .—Athyrium fllix-fcomina.- IL A. Brown.

—Please send better specimens.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.— All communication*
for insertion should be clearly and concisely loritten on one
aide of the paj>er only and adUlressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Pcblisukr. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any nora
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answered. When more than one query is scTit each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
GARDSKiNopotn^ to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again.

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when good
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name varieties
of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas,
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist who
has the means of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to name should always
accompany the parcel.

11599.—Leaves flailing off Peach trees.—I have
half-a-dozen Peach and Nectarine trees planted in an un-
heated orchard-house. The house is a lean-to with back- 1

wall 13 feet high, glass front, 5 feet; width, 12feet .length,
20 feet. The trees were planted in November, 1380, ind
have been trained some 6 inches under the sloping
roof. Last year they bore well, except a Noblesse Peach,
which grew but had little bloom and no fruit, its leaves tared
yellow continually all through the summer. Thisytariht
name tree.thuugh still making growth, continues to look ns-
healthy, and two other Peach trees liave followed its euc,

B io. Ventilators have been kept open night aud (% entt
ie buds swelled, and water, with occasionaly 80ot ml
weak liquid manure, has been given as required. Et«j
day when the trees are syringed the leaves come do»n m
great munbers. Wliat is the probable cause of this at
healthy state and the proper remedy to adopt?—W. E. M

H0OO.— Vine leaves turning pale.— I have a spur
roofed house with Vines in it. the roots of which are p'xv.-y.
outside. We grow a considerable quantity of Ferro ud
various flowers in the vinery as well. The Vinesbroke «tU
and have now a fair crop of fruit upon them. I kept
up a warm, moist atmosphere until they began to flortr,
with a little fire heat and syringing. I then discontiiiari
syringing. 1 stopped the shoots at a proper length beytei
the fruit. At this period all looked well; but all the skoea
that have coine out since are very pale. Can anyone nu
me the reason why it is so ; and what will remedy it? The
Vines liave been planted ten or twelve years.—Aimon

11601. — Heracleum giganteum. — Last Mi r.t
and early in April I planted seeds of Heracleum giganua:^
in the open ground, but they have completely faikd. 1
have taken some of the seeds up and they seemed to b>
quite decayed. As I wish very much to grow this girai. 1 .:
plant I would feel greatly obliged if some readerwouki fc£
mo how to grow it. Could I procure seedlings, and wte*'
—Parsnip.

11002.— Vine for planting.— Isa Vine that wufored
last winter, but not fruited, as good for permanentplictc,
as a Vine that has not been forced ?—A. C.

11603.—Cyclamens for next year.-i hive t*i
Cyclamen conns in pots without leaves ; do they ropin
much water, and what position during summer to get Uas
£0 bloom next year ?—Clapton.

11004.— Weeds in gravel walks.— What it the Ur.
method of keeping down weeds in gravel walks ? Salt a
unsatisfactory.— G. D., Bath.

11605.— Tuberoses in windows —Would soc««(
kindly say if I can grow Tuberoses (which have t«s
started) in my windows, inside or out? Any inforaatw
as to their treatment will oblige— Buttonuolr

11006 .— Musk in a Rose bed.— I have i kp
quantity of the common Musk growing in my Ho*e W.
Will it do any harm to the Roses ? I have been recta
mended to take it all out, but it looks so pretty that 1 d:
not wish to do bo unless it is injurious to the Ro*» -
H. P. M.

11007.— Veronicas. —I have some small ihrebb;
Veronicas in pots; would they do best planted out«n
pots, do they require shade or full exposure? I ibocM
like them to bloom next year. What time of the yarn
their proper season for blooming?— Clapton.

11006.— Hyacinths in pots.— At what time ol tk
year will my Hyacinths and Tulips in pots be ripe eno tfi
to put away ? Ought they to be placed in the shade or is,
and do they require much water?—C lapton.

11000.— Black clocks.— In our garden we grow mi**
laneous fruits and vegetables, and an animal called bki
clock is the torment of our lives. These robber* dual
up our Pear trees and devour the Pears. We
kill them in time, so please to say what poiaon, if
will do the work ; or what other way is there to end t*
trouble?—J. O'Haraqan.

11010.— Cucumbers bitter.— Can any reader infers,
me why all my Cucumbers have such a very bitter us*
They are watered with nothing but plain water .-Bscn
Wrkn.

noil.—Heading down Plum trees-I Jaw»
standard Plum tree (Goliath), not a very old tree, that tM
been a heavy cropper till the last three years, when it w
not borne at all and looks sickly. Would it do to bead «
down now or wait till autumu ?—J. C. B.

11012.—English vegetables for India.-I J*
about to proceed to Sangor, in central India, a
autumn ; can any reader tell me anything about
there, and as to what seeds, bulbs, &c., to take out,? A®,
hints would he acceptable. I know a good dew “xw
gardening in England, but have never been in lnd»L w
course the things I should wish to grow there wonM r-
English vegetables and flowers.—G. M. Bccklx

11013.— Winter flowering Begonias.-I* 0 ^*
glad of information as to the present treatment of
flowering Begonias. At present they are in blossom.

I allow the plants to blossom on in the greenhouse,

I prune back and turn the plants out of the pots
out of doors until the autumn ? The kinds 1 h*ve
weltoniensis, fuchsioides, undulata, odor&ta major,
Florida.—N yl.

11614—Amaryllis formosissima and Ama¬
ryllis vittata.— I should he much obliged w
in format ion as to the reason my plants of tbes«
not flower. I have had the bulbs in pots, the*°uf®y
ing the bulbs for more than two years, but haven* ,
flowers. They wore carefully planted in go 00
—Nyl. .

11015.— Phylloxera on Vines.-I "ball *
obliged if any correspondent can inform me ,r\L u
any Vines in this country' invested with the Phyi^

I am anxious to try a remedy on a Vine which m*.
the disease. For some time post I have been e *P®\.j ua;
ing on a healthy Vino, in order to prove there^
injurious to the plant itself, with complete
after five applications of the remedy, the
better and more healthy than it ever did before.- \ g
11610.—Stocks as perennials —"’ill *»«* •£*
flower next year, and what should I do when wej e
of bloom ? They are so fine I should wish to p *
them.— M. C. .

1817.—Narcissi not flowerinfir.-"' hat ,
with single Narcissi which did not snow one now «
year, although the leaves are healthy' ^ !

in ciumpe last October in bed* and border."®* ^

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

JUNE 14, 1884.

No. 275.

1 1

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 159 .)

The Grape Vine in the Open-air.

wren the late bad seasons have created in
me minds a doubt about open-air Grapes ever
ain ripening in our climate, yet even last year
hite Muscadine Grapes ripened well on the
uth front of a cottage near where I am
riting, »nd two years ago I was driving
rough a ullage in the county of Hunts, on the
th of October, and the front of nearly every
ttagi- on the south side of the village street
is covered with Grape Vines loaned with
lit, both bunches and berries being of good
e, the black Grapes being well coloured. It
s evident that in the majority of instances
re had not been much paius taken with the
rdera; for in many cases not more than a
lple of feet separated them from the hard
idway, which was composed of broken
mite. Into this hard mass the roots
>1 have gone if they went anywhere
side the narrow border which generally
rted the front of the cottages. I have seen
where Grape Vines flourishing better and
ring liner and better fruit, with the roots
singly in a hard road or garden path, than
en laid in a deep porous border. What the
ipe Vine requires is an even, regular state of
dure and temperature. In or beneath the
d roadway this even condition is found. In
majority of made borders they are either
le too rich with the use of manures, and so
ome sour and pasty, and the Vines fall a
y to mildew’, or else they are made so loose
porous that if the water-pot is withheld
* !ne3 are starved, and the fruit useless,
truth is, scarcely anyone waters a Grape
eon the wall sufficiently if the border has
drainage under it. Plants carrying such
;e foliage in hot weather must dissipate a lot
vater, and if not supplied from one source it
jj* f° r ^ from another, and where it is not so
11 adapted for the work in hand. Besides, if
,' T Tply of water should fall off, there is less
r * ( ' rine . for new wood, and foliage, and fruit
not be made without moisture, of which,
( *d. it forms the chief part.

The Border

t hare a dry bottom, for though occasionally
;^of Vines with the extremities of their
king found in close proximity to some
' s or water course, or drain, yet it is
rim, if the water encroaches upon the
der where the main roots are situated, the
lfi n °t succeed. It is true, no matter
unfavourably situated the Vine may be, it
l0ra dies right out. If mismanaged it
itself upon us by becoming a prey to
an d by getting out of hand in other
pecta, but it clings to life with a tenacity
-.found ' m other trees or plants. A plant
c . 7 Propagated, and whose management is
simple, and which is of such an undying
jure, ought not to be difficult to cultivate
make fruitful; and neither is it. It must
- * good aspect — south or south-east is
■ **st-and with a -well-drained border,
|posed of sound loam, neither light or
mixed with some crushed chalk or
. an d a few bones, it will, if well
i'' d with w ater in summer, do well. Some
'pie have a notion of picking out every little
jefrom beds and borders. This is, I think,
take. They need not, of course, be raked
e au( f left there, as it is not difficult to
a ny which may come to the surface,
subsoil is bad the bottom should be
J •mpervious for 4 or 5 feet from the wall.

_ utnp soils a drain should run along the
fc he border, and a little below it. Tho
-JV° ma H e new Orders, or to repair or
wl ones, is in March or September. The
’ 1 young ones are to be used, may be
J n y time in spring—preferably in April,
tho middle of the mmrth^ the plants
'“ 5 *FPt too! ,11 ■ g

roots should be uncoiled and laid out straight,
about S inches from the surface of the border.
It w’ould be impossible, according to my view- of
the matter, to overrate the importance of having
the roots near the surface. The border may be
of a depth to suit the district and the soil,
and the cultivator’s capacity and time, for these
are more or less factors in the matter ; but by
far the majority of the Vines planted in the
country are planted without any preparation
being made. Occasionally, under favourable
conditions, by a lucky hit as it were, they suc¬
ceed ; but given a warm site, a properly made
border, a good supply of water in dry weather,
and proper management of tho grow’th in
summer, and success ought to be a matter of
certainty.

Training.

Assuming the young plants are turned out in
the border when the soil is in a nice condition
to receive the roots, all the buds but three
should be rubbed off, and those three should be
near the bottom. They should be attached to
the wall when they need support, the centre
shoot beingtaken straight up, and the side shoots
led off a short distance at right angles, and then
assume a vertical direction. The shoots should be
stopped if vigorous w’hen they have grown
about 5 feet, to strengthen the bottom eyes ; but
the next break should form a leader, and be
laid in. Young Vines w’ant a good deal of
w’ater, and the border should be mulched 4 inches
deep with manure.

Summer Pruning.

If neglected, Vine shoots soon get into a
tangle by reason of their hook-like tendrils
getting hold of each other, and clinging with a
tenacity which makes separation very difficult
without some parts suffering injury. Hence the
value and the importance of work done at its
proper season. As soon as the buds burst
forth the weak ones should be rubbed off, and
as soon as the bunches can be seen a further
reduction in their number should be made,
leaving only as many as can be laid on to the
wall without overcrowding. Stop all shoots
one leaf beyond the bunch, and rub off all
lateral growth in the bud state. This may be
taken as a general principle in the open-
air cultivation of the Vine ; but there
may be cases in which a departure from
this principle may be advisable in the
matter of stopping the main shoots. For in¬
stance, a little more growth may be permitted,
say to two leaves beyond the bunch, before
stopping, and there may be cases where the
lateral growth may have a little more freedom.
These cases are usually Vines in sluggish action,
and a little more growth acts as a stimulus to
exertion.

Winter Pruning.

This should be done as soon as the leaves
fall. And any dressing or cleaning which may
be necessary should lie done at the same time.
The best system to keep the Vines in a continuous
bearing state is a combination of spur and long
rod. For instance, a certain number of old rods
should be cut out annually, and a similar
number of young canes trained up to supply
their places. In this way there would never be
any old rods with long spurs producing a
thicket of weakly sprays which are com¬
paratively worthless. When the Vine wall
is first planted it will be best to plant
at a certain specified distance apart—say
from 8 to 12 feet—with main rods starting
away horizontally at right angles from the
trunk till the limit of width has been reached,
and be then led upwards. Other cancs would
spring from the base, and be trained 2 feet
apart, vertically. The bearing rods would be
2 feet apart, or in some cases a little more
space should be allowed, and between each two
bearing rods will be trained a ^oung rod,
growing up for bearing the next year. In
shortening these young shoots, cut to well-
ripened wood. The spurs also should be cut
fill b^(jk, as there is no advantage in leaving

them so long as is commonly done. It is always
a good plan in the management of Vines, and,
indeed, the same rule applies to all fruit trees,
to allow those trees showing superior vigour to
extend at the expense of the plants growing near.
If we plant on a south wall a dozen, or any greater
or lesser number of Grape Vines, some of them
will be sure to be stronger than the others, and
unless they are of different kinds, and there is
some special reason for permitting all to remain,
the strongest should be permitted to occupy all
the space, removing the weakly plants. There
are two great evils in connection with open-air
Grape culture—one is the delay and frequent
neglect in giving attention to the regulation
of the growth in spring and summer, and the
other is over-cropping; whilst no effort is
made by giving the plants extra sustenance in
the shape of mulching or artificial manures, to
enable them to swell their fruit off to a
profitable size. No spur should be permitted to
carry more than one good-sized bunch, and, if
time permitted, in the case of the best bunches
thin the berries with the scissors. I am con¬
vinced if this were done the Grapes would be
much finer and of better quality. So far as
regards wine-making, the Grapes need not be
thinned, and if the Vines were well fed, to ward
off undue exhaustion, more bunches might be
left on than if the Grapes were required for
dessert. Grapes good enough for dessert were
grown in this country when more care and atten¬
tion were bestowed upon their culture, and I
have no doubt this will be done again when a
greater number of people with fresh, original
minds are induced to take it up.

Renovating Old Vines.

Old, exhausted Vines may be quickly brought
back to a profitable condition by root-lifting,
and adding fresh turfy soil to the borders. No
fruit tree responds so readily to good treatment
as the Vine Goes. The proper course to adopt
is to open a trench along the front of the border,
taking away all exhausted soil, lifting the roots
out carefully, bringing back fresh soil, and after
pruning the roots, lay them out evenly and
straight in the border, about 8 or 9 inches from
the surface, mulching the border with 4 inches
of good yard manure. At the same time the
knife should be used freely among the branches
to make room to lay in a supply of new wood,
which, with roots brought near the surface, will
be short-join ted and firm, every eye or bud
showing a bunch of Grapes. The best time to
do this work is when the leaves are ripe, or have
finished their work in autumn. The mulching
and watering in dry weather are very important,
as this brings the root3 near the surface, and
keeps them there.

Diseases, &c.

Mildew is the only really troublesome enemy to
the Grape Vine in the open air, and this is
mainly caused by sluggish root action, arising
chiefly from two opposite causes—viz., a wet,
cold, pasty border, or extreme dryness at the
root. Lifting the roots in the way suggested
will be an effective remedy in the former case,
and a dressing of artificial manure, with a sub¬
stantial mulching and plenty of water, will give
the much-needed nourishment when drought is
the cause. When an attack of mildew is
brought on by ungenial weather, inducing a
sudden check, washing with sulphur water or
dusting dry sulphur over the affected parts, will
quickly destroy the pest; but there must be no
delay in applying the sulphur.

Propagation.

Cuttings and layers are the best methods of
raising young Vines, and their propagation by
single eyes is, of course, a form of striking
them from cuttings. In raising them from
layers the stems should be split, or a notch
cut just beneath a bud, for the purpose of
arresting the sap at this particular point,
where it soon forms into granular That ter, from
which roots qnickly issue. Th^jmtumn urthe
liest season for lafciing, and toward end pf

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

162

GARDENING ILL USTRATED

[June 14, 1884.

the month of September or beginning of
October the work may be done, pressing the
soil about their steins. Cuttings 7 or 8 inches
long, taken off, if possible, with a heel of old
wood, planting them firmly in the border,
near the wall, at the right distances apart,
which may be 8 or more feet, or even nearer if
the wall is required to be covered soon. Single
eyes may be cut from well ripened wood, with
a shield of wood at the back of the bud an inch
or so long. Pieces of tough sod or turf 5 or 6
inches square may be prepared from a Crass
field or common. A little soil should be scooped
out of the centre of each, one eye pressed into
it, and a little light, rich soil pressed firmly
around it; and the sod may be started with
a little warmth in a frame or pit, or a close
frame without artificial heat might do. When
the plants have made some progress place a
stake to each, and as the season advances, and
the weather becomes more settled, plant out,
setting the piece of turf in the hole carefully
without disturbing the roots. Water must be
given to cause the young plants to begin growth
at once, without let or hindrance.

Varieties.

Black Cluster, Esperione, Muscat Lierval,
Muscat St. Laurent, Royal Muscadine, Ingram's
Hardy Prolific Muscat, Sweetwater.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

FRONT PLOTS OF SMALL VILLAS.

An Englishman’s house is his castle, and the
private parts of the garden attached thereto may
be presumed to be part of that castle, and,
therefore, not subject to criticism except by the
owner and his friends ; but the front plots or
entrance Gourts of small villas are, in most cases,
open to public view, and laid out so as to court
criticism, being arranged as much with the view
of being seen by the passerby, as of looking well
from the windows of the house. In all villas of
builders’ types the houses are brought much too
Close to the road for the best effect possible to
be carried out, but even within the space usually
at command much more may be clone than is
usually attempted if a few general principles are
attended to. The sole reason for growing plants
in gardens is to be able to make familiar friends
of them, to enjoy their beauty day by day, to
have them near to us and under our care. Those
who do not care for flowers in that way have no
valid reason for troubling themselves about
them, but may be safely left to drift about after
the caprices of fashion. If we grow plants we
can neither enjoy or appreciate their beauty if
we interfere with it. We may think we
improve them, as the Chinese do when they
pinch their young ladies’ feet, but we
do nothing of the kind. We only produce
abortions and absurdities, unless we follow
strictly Nature’s lines. Any arrangement or
grouping of plants must be a bad one if it
requires the plants to be prevented from assum¬
ing their natural habit. This is a rule with but
few exceptions. When plants are allowed to
assume their natural habit, and are growm under
natural conditions, they require a minimum of
attention ; and, as the front of a house in full
view of the public is just the place where an
amateur naturally wishes to be seen pottering
about as little as possible, the most suitable
plants, and arrangement of plants, for such
positions, are those which require the minimum
of attention, while giving a finished and
beautiful look to the place for the whole year.
The flowers grown in front courts should there¬
fore consist mainly of evergreen perennials and
biennials, and of perennials which cither die
down or can be cut down immediately after
flowering, or which spring up early and remain
ornamental throughout the season. To keep
any soil in a healthy state it is necessary that
the winter wind, rain, and sunshine get
thoroughly at it. Winter is the season
when the decaying vegetation of autumn
becomes transformed by the process of decay
into healthy plant food to feed the growth
of spring. Even in a wood it will be
found that little or no healthy vegetation
exists where the coppice wood is too thick to
allow the health-giving breezes to reach the
ground. Toad Stools carpet the ground instead
of Primroses, Anemones, and Hyacinths. In
enclose! front jflotk
Digitized by

edv-gir

rtant point'

which must be attended to if healthy flowers are
wanted. All trees and shrubs planted should
be leafless in winter, and should be grown in the
coppice wood form ; that is, forming a sheaf of
shoots springing from the ground. Standard
trees should be confined to those of light foliage,
such as the Mouutain Ash, the Almond, and the
Birch. Where a stray evergreen is planted it
can have its sombrenfess and formality removed
by having a Honeysuckle, a Clematis, or an
Ayrshire Rose running up through it, or it
can be gracefully festooned with Tropa^oluin
speciosum or Passion-flower.

In settling floral arrangements avoid, almost
as poison, emphasizing the centre of the plot.
This is a childish and uninventive mistake
which always makes a garden look bad, and is
especially pernicious in a small front plot.
Wherever possible the entrance gate should not
be opposite the door of the house. This gives a
8weep to the principal walk, breaks the ground
into unequal portions, and so suggests a
picturesque and unsymmetrical arrangement.
All beds should be of as informal a shape as
possible, and so arranged as to allow of enlarge¬
ment without disarranging the effect of the
whole. Planting must depend greatly on soil,
climate, and position, as regards town or
country. Where everything is suitable a bed of
Rhododendrons and other peat-loving shrubs,
mixed with peat-loving Lilies, and Primroses,
and Pansies, in the shady and half-shady nooks,
makes an embellishment which requires but a
minimum of attention. Roses should be con¬
fined to handsome free-flowering bushes, and
free-climbers, merely supported on rustic trellis
work, so that they can grow as if scrambling in
a hedge. The old summer-flowering, climbing
Roses, the Evergreens, and Fortune’s Yellow,
are suitable varieties. Open spaces between
beds can be filled with well-kept turf, and the
beds should have a low, rockery edging, hidden
by trailing and cushion-forming plants. Such
an edging, when the plants are judiciously
selected and mostly evergreen, looks well at all
seasons, and breaks, with its soft russets,
greys, and greens, the harsh contrast
between green turf and flowers of red shades
in the beds. A front plot planted with
deciduous shrubs is a grand place for a
spring garden, as if care is taken to lay down
a good bed of light soil and leaf mould in the
first instance, and to collect and rot all fallen
leaves, afterwards top-dressing the ground in
the autumn of each year with the product of the
leaves of the previous autumn, Wood Lilies,
Solomon’s Seal, various terrestial Orchids,
Primulas, Scillas, Anemones, Columbines, Wood
Violets, and some Lilies can be grown, and a
whole delightful region added to the garden.
An informal garden can always have little per¬
fecting touches added to it as it grows. If any
part looks stiff and plain, plant a Clematis, or
a Tropieolum, or an Everlasting Pea, and let it
trail at will over the shrubs, or over some
inconspicuous support, and the formality is
gone. Beyond mowing Grass and weeding walks
and beds, such a front plot as above described
requires no attention from one year’s end to
another, and will always have some fresh beauty
to show to passers by.

Bedding plants can be used to add to the
summer gaiety, but there must be no rows,
figures, or striping ; neatness must be got by
contrasting plant with plant, not by pinching
or clipping. All beds should be level. All
puerilities, such as mounds, whether of earth,
stones, or shells, basket beds, stone edgings,
jardinettes, vases, and flower-stands, are wholly
out of place in the garden of any person who
makes the slightest pretence to taste and educa¬
tional training. We must trust for decorative
effects wholly to the beauty of the plants them¬
selves ; they require no sucli accessories.

For the embellishment of front plots bedding
is wholly unsuitable. In seasons such as we
have had lately, it is not worth looking at until
after Midsummer-day, and the whole beauty of
the garden, from February to Midsummer, and
from September to Christmas, is sacrificed for
this meretricious display of a few’ weeks. For
spring bedding, when carried out in the very
best style, is a miserable thing compared with
the true spring garden of established plants.
All but its Spring Crocuses, Tulips, Hyacinths,
and Forget-me-nots are mere half-starved scraps
of plants, compared with the great sheets of
Araois, Aubreitia, Daisies, Alyssum, Iberib/

Creeping Phtox, Saxifrages, Scillas, Primroatt,
Corydalis, Geutianella, aud Hepatieas; aiuithe
flowery tufts of Iris, Anemones, Rammcuiii,
Pansies, Pinks, Polyanthus, Primulas, Auricula,
and Narcissi; and big bushes of Columbba,
Paxmies, Wallflowers, Pyrethrums, and OrieaUl
Poppies, not to mention less known thfc»
which embellish the true spring garden.

Good taste in gardening is making sucbnpd
progress that a garden decorated with Standard
Roses and bedding plants, such as was the ruk
ten years ago, may now be said th be almost a
infallible a sign of vulgarity and want of tute
as scroll-work furniture, with tufted ini
buttoned upholstery, or a carpet or nig deco¬
rated with caricatures of Roses as big u
Cabbages, mixed with scroll-work in ochre ini
brown, or with a copy of Landseer’s “ Diaiiy
and Impudence ” worked in wools. Everybody
who wishes to make so much as a single stq
forward in garden decoration must first tun
their backs on all bedding-out arrangemtcU,
whether with hardy plants or otherwise. Any¬
one who can tolerate that style of gardening im
yet to take a first lesson in what constitutes th
beauty of flowers and plants. In the frat T
courts of the larger class of villa a rich ai
stately effect should be aimed at, and da ;
way to get that is to avoid dot plants, auail
beds, geometry, trimming, and clipping, and
any repetition of plants at regular iutemlk
Plant iu masses and sheets of the dwarferpliM,
and clumps of the taller ones. Don’t plant a
single Lily bulb, for instance, but a doaf
together, of the same sort, say a dozen wait*
in one bed and a dozen Apricots or Tigers is
another. Don’t plant a row of Chrysacti*
mums, but a clump of, say, three Aiglt dOn
together, or an Elaine and a Mrs. Forsyth jot j
white, with a George Glenny for yellow, and *'
Christine for soft peachy-lilac. The same with
Delphiniums. Plant either clumps of cue nt
or clumps of contrasting sorts—pale bla^
middle blue, and deep purple blue together; (f
of Phloxes, plant either a group of pale pin
here, a group of salmons there, and a group
scarlets, erimsons, or whites in another bed,
a group of well-contrasted colours togetlftl
Let Gentianellas, Hepatieas, Arabis, Alysiuaj
Sedums, Saxifrages, Aubreitias, Phloxes spur"
into great sheets, and plant masses of Daw*
Scillas, Tulips, Anemones, Pansies, Dafoflfl
Jonquils, Primulas, Gladioli, and half harM
annuals. With anything like taste in arnnp j
ment, coupled with proper attention to tin
habits of the plants, and preparation of tbes*
in the first instance, a good effect is ceraa !
Bear in mind always that when you fedta .?
slightest tendency to arrange plants in rows, &
repeat the same thing at regular intervals.?-*
are going wrong, and had better give upp¬
ing for an hour or two, and take a raenta. re«
until you feel able to group your plants prop- r> )
again._J* *■“

NOTES ON GROWING LILIES OF THE
VALLEY.

Ever since I was a boy I have been taught v
believe that the only satisfactory way of grow¬
ing Lilies of the Valley in the open air was»
plant them in a shady place. It did not mat#
whether the crowns were to be taken up ^
forced, or whether they were to be left*
flower at their own time, it was thought:
growing them in the shade was absolute . 1
necessary, in order to secure fine plump cw*®
that would give fine spikes of flowers. I
willing to grant that, in some soils a®*
favourable situations, the practice may be
but it does not necessarily follow that«
applicable to all cases. , .

Having to deal with this Lily where it- s ,
quiredin rather large quantities, and in a
situation unfavourable to an early mator*W
of the crowns (a most essential point
required for early forcing), I find that '
they are prepared for forcing, by bemg S 10
in a shady position, the result is not by >».
means satisfactory. There is not only
scarcity of flowers, but the few that arc p
duced are poor and weak, a result attribute 1
to our cold, ungenial soil and high situation
Finding this to be the case, some years ago
decided to prepare my stock for forcing
planting them in the full sun, and the resu
I am glad to say, is eminently satisfacton
The preparation of the &Jil has l'«en in »°

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

June 14, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

163

usual, for we alwayB make it fairly rich
the application of well-rotted manure. In
Jer to keep up a supply of plants, we have to
\ke a fresh plantation every year; and as it
kes three years to secure fine, strong crowns,
me amount of forethought is necessary to pre-
nt a break in the supply. We select a position
r our Lilies in the narrow borders of the
tohen garden, which lies well to the sun.
.nerally we make new plantations in April,
st as the young growth is peeping through the
il; but we are not very particular in this
atter. If work presses, we plant as soon
towards as nay lie convenient, and I should
>t hesitate to plant in June. If well watered
ter planting, and the border is kept shaded
r a week, the plants soon take hold of the new
.il, and are but very little the worse for the
\ange.

Respecting the advantages of growing Lilies of
le \ alley in a sunny position when required
r forcing, little or no argument is necessary.
. j tween those grown in the shade of a wall or
building and those grown fully exposed there
at least ten days’ difference in the starting
to growth in spring—that is to say, those
ints which have the benefit of the sun are
a days earlier than those grown in the shade ;

'1 if there is that much difference in the early
owth, it seems clear that there must be a
(responding forwardness extending through
e summer, viz., those grown fully exposed are
rlier in coming into flower than those in
There must, too, be an earlier matura-
* n °f the growth, so that from the first stage
the last there is a decided gain. Experience
oves this to be the fact, for the foliage of
ose grown in the open garden dies away
‘V three weeks earlier in autumn than
of plants cultivated quite in the shade;
d no one experienced in early forcing need
told that the earlier any plant goes to rest in
e autumn, the better condition it will be in
r forcing It not only responds more readily
artificial heat, but the flowers or fruits will
' *P er '. owing to their having had a longer
sting time. It is proper to remark that we
rce our Lilies in boxes 28 inches long, 6 inches
ep, and 9 inches wide. To fill these boxes
5»ely with crowns, we grow them thickly on
e ground; therefore we simply drain the boxes,

'd put 2 inches of soil in the bottom ; then we
.? tllem to the bed, and with an edging-
nne cut out the crowns in masses exactly the
ze of the box, in which they are placed without
isturbance. A little fine soil shaken over the
artace makes all neat and tidy. A thick layer
t green Moss is then laid on the surface, with
view to start the crowns in darkness, and then
e are taken to a cold pit for a week or
J or . ^ ^ing placed in heat. On the
1 ill!!!* ^ may be truly said that

timp • ; ^ ma y k® planted at any

irp ’ ^questionably the earliest results
l _ ootained from spring planting. When,
ZS “ n °t Vo>B&h, they may be
f rnZ Tjk P er ^ eet safety at any other time,
< n JL 0rdmar y care ia observed, and the
* , I ] 00ta . are not allowed to remair
f eu to the air for too great a length of time.

__ J. S.

Orchis. —To the three Orchis
u . n ?J Jy “A. B. T.,” in Gardening, May
which ^ded a fourth, viz., 0. latifolia,
r “ wnamon in damp meadows, and is
W • i °* a Wse colour, and, moreover, is in
bpfrwJn now ’ before 0. mascula is over, and
mav h* ‘ ® acn ^t ft has come in. I think this
> oe the rose-coloured Orchis in question.
Tiead ° n0 r 188 ^ ** mario ” “ Gardening) is a
:he m- W ^ ma y always be known by

Wer Tt VC ^ t ^ ie 8e P a f s or wings of the

O ' i '’ ar ies in colour, as also does the
iq thafi’ “ om deep P ur pie to almost white,
tevpr. co our &°es for nothing, but O. morio
8 P° tte< i leaves. I saw in Cornwall
*;th ? nn ® bun d r eds of plants of 0. mascula
ftuJzfP 0 . ^ leaves, so your correspondent’s
TL fr.ii- 8111 Suffolk are not true everywhere,
typo . lo ^ ln g simple characters will enable a
^Ijcp* distinguish these four: 0. mascula,

*tak ’ e gg-shaped, spike long and loose,
^^‘Veined ; 0. morio, spike short,
kW ’ green-veined; 0. maculata,

I™, ’ Pahaate, divided into four or five
hjf 0 i ia : bracts shorter than the flowers ; O v . ^

GAILLARDIAS.

Last year M. Lorenz, of Erfurt, sent us specimens
of his new double Gaillardia Lorenziana, and now
wehaveanothermuchinthesame way, introduced
by MM. Vilmorin-Andrieux & Co., Paris. This
is named Aurora Borealis, and, like Lorenziana,
is a variety of the very variable G. picta, a half
hardy annual. As may be seen by the accom¬
panying woodcut, the new Aurora Borealis has

Gaillardia picta var. Aurora Borealis, showing
habit of growth. Detached flower about one-
third natural size.

its flower heads semi-double, whereas M.
Lorenz’s variety has blooms quite double. Both
have bright yellow and red in the flowers,
colours that make them so attractive as border
plants. They are, moreover, very useful in a
cut state, as the blooms last long in water. It
is rather too late to sow seeds now, but if sown
in September, and the seedlings are kept over
the winter in frames and planted out about the

Flowers of Gaillardia picta Lorenziana.

latter end of next April in the shape of vigorous
young plants, they would make a fine display the
following summer. They are also amenable to
pot culture, and if care is taken to induce them
to form dwarf sturdy plants they would be
valuable for conservatory decoration in spring
and summer. For this purpose the seedlings
raised in autumn should be grown on and
repeatedly shifted into larger pots till spring.

NOTES ON HOLLYHOCK CULTURE.
Choice varieties of Hollyhock are usually grown
in pots during winter ; they are propagated in
spring, and the young plants raised in that way
are placed under glass until large enough to
inured to the open air, after which they are

I planted where it is intended they are to flower,
j Our plants have been out for some weeks; at
first cold nights sadly checked their growth,
but since the weather has taken a favourable
turn they are making good growth. Holly¬
hocks, being gross feeders, like a rich soil, and
their full beauty cannot be ensured unless the
ground has been deeply trenched and plenty of
manure worked into it. When well grown tliey
rank amongst the most stately of autumn-
flowering plants, and certainly no good garden
ought to be without them ; but what is the
fact? I have visited many good gardens and
large gardens—gardens in which there was no
lack of means to purchase all the plants that
might be thought necessary for every purpose,
but there were no Hollyhocks. Fashion seems
to have selected Sunflowers for the place once
occupied by Hollyhocks. Sunflowers that used
to nod their heavy heads in cottage gardens are
now sought after by people of high degree.
Owing to the neglect into which Hollyhocks
have thus fallen, there ds now some difficulty
in obtaining them, and when one does obtain
them the chances are that we get

Diseased plants. —Ours were supposed to be
free from disease, but it could be seen in a viru¬
lent form on them even in midwinter. It was
useless to throw the plants away, for I did not
know where to look for healthy ones. The plan I
adopted, however, seems to have been so far
successful, as now, when the plants are growing
freely, they do not show any trace of fungus.
Every leaf that had any upon it was pinched
off and burned, and the plants were dipped in
a strong solution of soapy water, into which a
considerable quantity of ilowers of sulphur was
mixed. I carefully watched them every day for
many.weeks ; during that timethe disease did not
reappear on them, but the instant a fungus spot
was apparent on any of the leaves they were
picked off and destroyed. In one or two cases
the plants were almost defoliated. At intervals
the remaining leaves were soaked in the soap
and sulphur mixture. We shall be careful in
future in introducing any fresh plants into our
collection, and if the disease is fortunately
stamped out, we are not likely to be troubled
with it again, as there are no Hollyhocks, clean
or unclean, anywhere near us. While the air
remains cool there is not much danger from

Red spider, but when hot, dry weather sets
in this pest is likely to get troublesome, and
unless it is destroyed the leaves assume a
brownish, rusty colour, which will prevent the
development of well-formed flowers. This pest
is destroyed by soapy and sulphur water, or it
may be kept in check by frequent syringings
with clean rain water. Mulching the ground
round the plants is also beneficial. See that
the flower-stems are tied to the sticks as they
increase in growth, which will prevent them
from being mjured by high winds. This is a
good time to

Sow seeds of Hollyhocks. They may either
be sown on a piece of fine soil ont-of-doors or in
pots and boxes in a frame. In the latter case
the young plants ought to be pricked out as soon
as the first rough leaf is formed. They should
be cultivated in the open ground during summer
and be planted out where they are to flower in
September ; by planting them at that time the
plants become established before winter, and
unless the latter is an exceptionally bad one
they seldom sustain injury; indeed, few are
killed by either frost or wet.—J.

Narrow borders of hardy flowers.—

He was a wise man who said to a good gardener
in the palmy days of bedding out, “With all
your skill you have produced nothing to equal
an old English cottage or farmhouse garden.”
With the woods full of Orchids, Primroses,
Anemones, and Lily of the Valley, a garden
must have something better in it than spring
bedding plants to justify its being under the
care of a man instead of being left to the embel¬
lishments of natuie. A cottage garden border
here is now in rare beauty, and has had some¬
thing in flower in it since last November. First
came purple Pansies, red Poppy Anemones,
and a few blooms of rose, and deep crimson
Primroses. These lasted in bloom until the
middle of April, and the Anemones are but just
over, having made fine show of many colours,
including F^ n l 0 &?iLJI > N^D , l §f AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

164

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[June 14, 1881

these came Wallflowers, from pure soft yellow the first breath of spring, until winter again
to deep crimson, Polyanthuses, Oxlips, and lays hold of the ground with his icy gnp.—J. D.
more Pansies, blue, yellow, white, and purple, Hardy Primroses and Primulas.— Few
which are now in full beauty, white Arabia, plants are easier to manage than many of these
golden stock-flowered Wallflowers, and single if their few simple requirements are attended
and double Stocks. Besides the Pansies and to. If properly cultivated they require a mini-
Stocks, there are now in flower masses of Forget- mum of attention, and give a large return in the
me-nots, and many clumps of florists’ Tulips, way of beautiful flowers. They stand smoke
fiery scarlet, deep crimson, pale rose, rose- better than many plants of more'robust coustitu-
striped fiery magenta, white and rose, white tion, and where they fail it is more often
and purple, yellow and red, yellow and through improper cultivation than anything,
brown, and mahogany shaded with purple. The common Primrose is a good representative
To follow these are Sweet Williams, Colum- of a large class of the family, and a proper
bines, white and Turk’s-cap Lilies, cluster understanding of its growth and requirements
Blush Roses, China Roses, Hybrid perpetual will teach how to cultivate most of them. It is
Roses, white and red Pinks, Anemone japonica, absolutely indifferent as to soil. Owing to the pe-
a well-grown stock of Dahlias, and a few culiar configuration of this district it is possible
Chrysanthemums. In the autumn the to pass in a four miles’ walk from chalk-down
Anemones will again take up the tale, to chalk-down, across a double outcrop of the
Adding to the spring display are Kerrya London clay and the gravel and sand beneath it,
japonica and Cydonia japonica trained on and over an intervening patch of Bagshot sands
walls. This border is round two sides of a and peat. In all these soils the Primroses grow'
square of 30 feet filled with vegetables, and is alike. The reason is that Primroses do not
but 3 feet wide. Another tiny border is gay depend on the soil except for moisture, but on
with two great clumps of Tulips of shaded the overlying layer of rotten leaves, leaf mould,
yellow r , orange, salmon, and crimson, each and decaying vegetation. The round of growth
clump having about thirty blooms on it. These of the Primrose is simple and easily understood,
are seen against the glossy foliage and expaud- A few' leaves are produced in the autumn, and
ing flowers of a big clump of dark crimson then flowering begins. The winter only
Pjeonios, and rise from among a spray of masses checks this, and the first burst of flow'ers
of Forget-me-nots mixed with a few tall spikes comes as early as the w'cather will permit,
of Scilla campanulata and the massive clumps accompanied and followed by the growtli
of Oxlip leaves. The border is edged with of fresh leaves. While the last of these are
double Daisies, pale pink with a deep rose being produced other and taller vegetation
centre, with a few crimsons amongst them, springs up, the trees and hedges put on their

Another border has Stocks, Rockets, Wall- leaves, and the Primroses are kept cool, shaded,
flowers, Tulips, Marigolds, Star of Bethlehem, and rather dry during the whole summer. In
Daisies, Forget-me-nots, and Columbines—the the autumn their leaves have in great part
tall flowers in sunshine telling against a north withered, and fresh strong roots push from the
wall covered with Periwinkle in full bloom. The crown where the old leaves have fallen off.
Pansies, Stocks, Wallflowers, and Tulips in these When the summer vegetation falls dow n, and
borders are poor things from a florist’s point the trees drop their leaves, the Primroses see the
of view, having been allowed to cross and light and sunshine again, and their fresh roots
come up from seed as they liked for many years; push strongly into the fresh layer of rotting
but just through that the colours are in such vegetation. Flower buds have l>cen growing
various and nearly related shades that a rich all through the summer, and these immediately
harmony results, there being twenty different begin to push. To grow Primroses well we
contrasts, all blending together, where a must arrange similar conditions for them in our
bedding man would plant three or four. Now% gardens. The subsoil matters little, provided
dwellers on the London clay, in the suburbs of thore is no stagnant moisture in it, but the plants
the great metropolis, north or south, give car should have 9 inches of easily-penetrateci stuff
and never afterwards despair. There is a rich in decayed vegetation and its products to
cottage garden in this district, on pure London root in, they must have light and • air and a
clay of the very stiffest type, whose proprietor peen of sunshine in the cool half of the year—
and cultivator is a woman past middle age, and coolness, shade, and shelter from excessive
which I shall describe for your benefit. The moisture in summer. A top-dressing of half¬
flower garden consists mainly of three small an-inch of leaf-mould in spring, and an inch or
oblongs, about 6 feet by 12, separated by turf more of the same in the autumn, is all the food
paths and a bed running the whole length of they require. Shelter from the summer sun
these threo across their ends. In these small they must have, so that they should be placed
beds there are growing Pansies of many colours on the north side of a plantation of dcciduouB
and large blooms, Polyanthuses, Crimson Thrift, trees ; or, if that is not available, a screen
Anemones, Double Poet’s Narcissus, just over, of some kind should be devised for them,
Tulips, Columbines, double and single in plenty, such as bushes of annual climbers trained
Brompton Stocks, very large, double, and in the up stakes and poles or over a low
very extreme of robust health. Double Meadow fence or a hedge or plantation of bush
Saxifrage, Marigolds, Red Valerian, Star of Roses. Primroses are dormant during the
Bethlehem, Lilies of several kinds, not yet in heat of summer, and can then be divided and
bloom, Phloxes, and, to help the autumn show, transplanted with impunity, provided the
the good dame w as busy planting out French weather has been dry for some time previously.
Marigolds and Zinnia elegans. The notable Unless sheltered from rain, a little wet, cloudy
thing in ,this garden is the number of plants weather sets them pushing fresh roots, w'hen it
growing in so small a space—the beds are literally is best not to move them. It is a great mistake
crammed — the robust health of everything to keep Primroses growing all the summer by
evidenced by sturdy growth, strong leafage, and watering them, instead of allowing the leaves
large flowers ; and last, the intense colour of to wither and the plants to become dormant,
the flowers. The Valerian was intense scarlet, The crown of a Primrose is like the summer
like scarlet Lychnis; the crimson Stocks like shoots of Roses and fruit trees, and requires to
crimson fire; the Pansies rich and velvety, be thoroughly ripened to flow'er at its best,
the Wallflowers intense in colour, some almost The cultivated varieties of the common Prim-
black ; while the white flowers, and many- rose can easily be kept up by division with the
coloured Columbines, kept the effect from being above cultivation, and the old plants do not become
gaudy. “ There, I could not live without my decrepit as they do in ordinary borders. Poly¬
flowers !” was the old lady’s remark, and that, anthuses have the same nature as the Cowslip
with study of the wants and ways of the plants, and Oxlip, and are not so dependent upon leaf-
thorough cultivation, and plentiful supplies of mould ; but they like a soil rich in vegetable
manure, solid and liquid, is the whole secret of matter—such as that from rotted turf, cut from
success. Once let the owners of small gardens an old pasture. Similar treatment suits the
give up admiration for excessive trimness and Auricula as a border flower ; it requires a good
mechanical neatness, and open their eyes to the top-dressing every year. Primula Siebolcui is
true beauty which lies in the free and natural perhaps the easiest of the Primula family to
growth of flowering plants, and their gardens grow, and perfectly hardy. It is later than the
instead of being caricatures by the side of those common Primrose, and should be shaded in
of country cottages, where the plants are merely summer by annuals. Primula rosea and Primula
tended with loving care, and where nearly all denticulata and capitata do well with the same
the newer beauties of the floral world are un- treatment as the common Primrose. Other'
known, will become a never-ending pleasure, kinds are more difficult to manage ; but all can
every day bringing forth fr#sh beauties from be mastered in light soil or on rockery by attqn-

3igitized by (jjO Og 1C " ' ' ,j

tion to their varying requirements u
moisture and shade, and feeding them well s
leaf-mould or peat.—J. D.

Wallflowers all the year round.-!
have no reason to be proud of my Walllknrieo,
as they are simply weeds on the soil, they
so freely ; but as I have them flowering :d tfc*
year round, whereas in some places where to
would naturally do as well if treated as I tail
mine, they grow into mere sticks with mi» 2 i !4
blooms, I will give a few hints. I never Me:
to sow—they sow' themselves. I let them ak*
till a few inches high, then plant out at uj
season in good soil, giving plenty of ras,
cutting short both root and top. Between txk
young sticks I have other flowers for ihcv.
The Wallflowers will make their way and k
pretty foliage for other plants, which will pit
ally be removed, and they will in &W. c
months be good flowering plants. When cm
into flower, leading flower shoots should '»
gathered at once to bloom in water, and ills
side-blooms will be increased. If head blwai'
allowed to seed, the plant will run away to*
thing. When this principal flowering is <at
over, if I want the bed I take up the pmo,
cut them back almost to the stem, and ;ii
them in some shrubbery border, where
remain till they die, milking beautiful tai
for three or four years, and keeping »
seedlings, as I allow them to seed. If, bows
I wish these plants to flower again in ea
autumn, and show well, I either leave u
where they are, cutting back sharply (4
cutting out the whole head of stem;, i
nipping back through the summer to keep
bushes round, or I lift them to a store bed,*
give plenty of air aud water till estaHiw
Root-pruning is useful with Wallflowtn
round-rooted plant will be a rounder-bafo
plant than a tap-rooted one, and the gratthhi
with Wallflowers is to have round, grad
shrubby plants well covered with floweri 1
sharp pruning 1 have still beautiful busha til
have been in the same place at least four or i
years, and there is no season when I haveal
Last autumn I made a new bonier, for wij
wanted f>00 Wallflowers. I easily coBd
them from self-sown seedlings under ray
bushes. Fierce winds are the only tbingid
really interfere with them. They will 4
any drought, any heat, any rain; and i»
marvellous how rarely one sees them a
proper use of, supplying as they do delia)
flow'ers all the year round, and a lovely
bloom in the depth of winter.—G. P. O’Biafc
Solomon’s Seal and common Bra**
Fern. —I never saw Solomon’s Seal riff »
more at-home look than growing in qnrihg
colonies under the shelter of the
Bracken. The Solomon’s Seal is in fnDk^u:
the Bracken has pushed up around,
it the clear, bright green fronds only !•*
developing, and, therefore, whilst in a
sheltering do not in any way hide from vie*

§ raceful growth and pretty floweri of t»
olomon’s Seal. This is one of the.®*
pleasing combinations I ever saw, the union j
these two plants being a most happy one»
just what one might imagine would oatfj
naturally. I have seen Lily of the Valley *j
Bracken growring together, and this is a
combination, but the Solomon’s Seal is a
as it is of bolder and more graceful gnj*»|
I advise your readers to try this combine ^
some quiet shady corner where the Bracken 7
not be likely to encroach on other things.- 1

Rosemary-leaved Sun Rose (Helis*

themum rosmarinifolium).— This pT
little shrub is quite different from the “
the cultivated Sun Roses. It is of
prostrate growth, and its foliage, as the
name implies, bears a strong resemblance
of the Rosemary. Every twig is crowded^-
narrow foliage, and this at this season is

mixed with numerous white blossoms «
as a sixpenny-piece. A good-sized pbud
covered w ith flow'ers has a pretty effect. p«
ticularly if in a prominent position on the ico-
garden—its proper place.

Caterpillars on Gooseberry .trees - 1 .

found the following successful in preventing the 1 *
caterpillars on Oooesberry trees At the end of .
or the beginning of March well strew the 1

the bushes with air-slaked lime and fork it in. 1 1!1 * ,

I tried the above for seven years and never kne* «

If^TT^C^ILLINOIS AT
RBANA-CHAMPAIGN I

June 14, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

165

THE DOMING WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

Pi ire weak manure water to gross-feeding
into, and from specimens planted out in
rders remove all superfluous shoots and
ckers. Fuchsias trained to rafters require
inning, and Clematises tying to trellises. Do
t allow deciduous climbers to intertwine with
ergrecn ones. Keep up a succession of
ydrangeas, zonal, show, and sweet-scented
dargoniums, Fuchsias, Coleuses, Lobelias,
Ivias, Cockscombs, Balsams, Schizanthuses,
d similar plants, and transfer to frames or
e greenhouse such plants as have done flovver-

llcathsand some early-flowering hard-wooded
ants may tiow be set out-of-doors on a bed of
hes. Old plants of Agapantlius umbellatus
ould have plenty of water and a sunny posi-
m. Cut in hard-wooded Veronicas that have
•ne blooming, so as to encourage fresh growth,
ants of Kalosanthes should now’ have some
dstanee in the way of stimulants, as should
so Uliumsthat have formed their flower buds,
d some other soft-wooded plants. Erythrinas
pots should be grown in a cool and light
use near the glass ; they require plenty of
vter, and their main branches should have
pports of some kind to keep them in proper
sition.

Souvaxdias that w’ere cut back after flowering
mid now’ be making good wood ; they must,
before, be kept moist and warm for some
le yet. Persian Cyclamens should be kept
cool and shady frames, or against north
11s; they should receive a little w’ater during
i summer months ; C. Coum and similar
ids should be kept moderately dry, but not
much so. Azaleas that have done blooming,
l which have had their seed-pods picked
, should be repotted, if necessary, and put
« a warm pit, where heat, moisture, and
vie can be given them. Camellias also make
od growth under similar conditions, as do
o Oranges of various kinds. Pinching in
ould be practiced freely until the plants have
ained the form it is desired they should
mme.

’rcnsiAS, &c.—Some cuttings should now
put in to keep on growing slowly through
e winter; these w’ill give much more satisfac-
m than old plants, which, as generally
Miaged, are thin and scraggy, showing too
Qch of the old w’ood ; whereas a well-grown
achsia should be profusely furnished with
>ttng shoots covered with flowers and healthy
liage. Fuchsias, Petunias, and Zonal Pelar-
*niums that are intended to flower through
ie autumn should receive all requisite atten-
on, and be kept in a blooming condition so
mg as there is sufhcient atmospheric heat and
ght, as from this time forward there aro com-
aratively few greenhouse plants to maintain a
isplay.

Chrysanthemum s.—The time of putting these
bints into the pots they will bloom in will, as
matter of course, be regulated at the time at
hich they were struck. Such as are grown
•om cuttings put in about the close of the
-ar, and which will produce a greater pro¬
ton of fully-developed flowers than the later
truck ones, w ill, aB already advised, be ere this
n their blooming pots, and all the later propa-
ated ones should at once have their last shift;

if kept confined in little pots too long the
ertain consequence is the loss of the lower
saves and a hardened condition of the shoots,
«th of which it is not possible afterwards to
H to rights. Leaf-mould as a mixture with
be soil is sometimes recommended for Chrysan-
nemuma, but w hen this is employed the plants
ive a greater disposition to make shoot growth
ban to flower freely. Good turfy loam, with a
derate addition of sifted rotten manure and
-yflicienfc sand, will grow them well, potting
As soon as they have got fairly hold of

*oil stop the shoots as far as necessary, but
** more, as this pinching is frequently carried
fcuch too far and resorted to too late, in which
**** it interferes with the blooming.

and frames. —Where pot plants_

in pits they must be kept w ell up to the
- ,t3 i °r tney are apt to become drawn. Plants
**achstructures aro more liabletoget neglected
••pf girds water than in houses, where they can

®ore rpnililv nvnmirw-i/1 unr.li i

* a °r« readily examined.

Digitized! by

Under such circui

Gck

ircuiii

S l

stances, too, insects are more likely to escape
observation than in more open quarters, and
therefore must be looked after more closely.
In addition to supplying pot plants with
sufficient water at the roots, it is also requisite,
W'hile active growth is progressing, to keep the
floors of the pits or frames on which they stand
well and regularly moistened, for if this he not
attended to, the atmosphere during hot, sunny
weather becomes so dry that healthy growth is
out of the question.

Flower Garden.

By this time the planting of the beds will
have been accomplished, and the next impor¬
tant operation, that of pegging down such
straggling growers as Heliotropes, Petunias,
and Ivy-leaved Geraniums, will follow. Look
well to all tall-growing sub-tropicals, and see
that they are well staked before they receive
injury from wind or wet; indeed, the safest
and most expeditious way is to arrange the
stakes and plant to them. Give copious sup¬
plies of w’ater immediately after planting.
Mulch and use some dwarf-creeping plants for
covering the ground. Next to well-arranged
beds may be placed well-kept turf, walks, and
edgings, and if the first show’s signs of suffering
from drought that portion at least which forms
the “setting” for the flower beds should be well
flooded to keep the Grass in a growing state.
Box edgings may be clipped at any time, but
showery weather answers best.

Hkrbaceous plants.— These being now in
great beauty, a little extra care should be be¬
stowed on them. Lift such Hyacinths, Tulips,
and Crocuses as interfere with them, and spread
them out to dry without removing any of the
leaves. Cut over the decaying stems of Snake’s-
heads (Fritillaria) and similar early-flowering
plants. To plants that require support apply
strong stakes, but Campanulas, Larkspurs,
Pentstemons, Antirrhinums, Pyrethrums, and
some others of a similar character look best
when unsupported in that way. Phloxes like
plenty of nourishment, consequently a little
manure w’ater should now and then be given
them. Everlasting Peas wintered in pots may
How be planted out. Viola cornuta and other
bedding Pansies should be kept well furnished
with young slioots by occasionally cutting out
the old ones, and the beauty of both English
and fancy sorts will be greatly prolonged if
they are grown in a moist and partially shaded
situation. Train Clematises in such a way as
they will look best. Double Rockets which
have bloomed should have their slioots layered,
an operation which will soon induce the produc¬
tion of shoots in abundance, and these, when they
have attained a length of 2 inches or 3 inches,
may be taken off and made into cuttings.
Pyrethrums for late blooming, if cut down and
allowed to grow afresh, wflll come into bloom
during the latter summer months. Hardy
perennials generally which bear division may
still be multiplied in that way, and where that
is not applicable, cuttings should be inserted
as soon as possible, in order to ensure their
becoming well established before winter. Hardy
annuals for late blooming should be sown in
shady spots, to be transplanted hereafter to the

e ditions in which they are to flow er. Seeds of
rompton, Emperor, and Queen Stocks should
also now be sown for flowering next spring.
Continue to prick off perennials as soon as they
are ready for removal.

Hardy Ferns. —Ferns, unless W’ell looked to
and properly supplied with water, both over¬
head and at the roots, will soon present a shabby
appearance, as thrips are sure to attack them.
W nere bulbous plants and others of a semi-wild
character are grown in suitable portions of the
hardy fernery, as they always should be, the
less interference they receive in the way of
trimming or removal of leaves, the greater will
he their strength and capacity for blooming
next year. It is a great mistake, for the sake
of appearances, to denude such plants of their
foliage, as is frequently the case long before it
has (lied off and ceased to be useful, the effect
being to stop the maturation of the bulb or
crow’n of the plant, as the case may be, and
prevent the formation of flowers.

Asters. —Do not allow these to grow too
thickly, or the flowers will be small and the
plants will soon become exhausted. H they show-
signs of weakness through the ground not being
| rich enough, assist them with manure w’ater.

There is no plant less able than Asters to bear
the effect of aphides, whose presence is easily
detected by the leaves curling up. A good wash¬
ing with Tobacco water is the l>est remedy, and
this should be applied as soon as the insects are
detected, or the plants will surely be spoilt. The
tall-growing kinds, if at all in an exposed situa¬
tion, will require a small stick and tie to each
plant.

Shrubbery.

Continue to train and prune climbers as trail¬
ing plants. Ivies, Honeysuckles, and similar
rapid-growing kinds need keeping closely cut in
when not required to extend, or the outer
growth soon kills all the leaves underneath, and
if pruned late they will be bare of foliage during
the greater part of the season. All flowering
shrubs, as soon as they go out of bloom, should
have dead and decaying flowers removed, and
when necessary the plants should be cut back.
Whenever divisional lines are formed by means
of sweet Briar or the common evergreen Privet
they should also now be cut. Few- plants are
better suited for forming low* ornamental hedges
than the Privet, but, being of free growth, it re¬
quires to be clipped several times during the
season. The common Yew is also an excellent
hedge plant, but is of slow growth. There are,
however, several other hardy coniferous trees to
w-hich this objection does,not apply, such as
Cupressus Lawsoniana, Thuja Lobbi, Thujopsis
borealis, Ac., all of which are well suited for
ornamental hedges or screens. Where such
already exist the present is the most suitable
time for cutting or rather clipping them ; but
when such hedges or screens consist of large-
leaved plants, such as the common or Portugal
Laurel, it is then advisable to prune with the
knife, in order to avoid, as much as possible, the
mutilation of the leaves. The present is a suit¬
able time to attend to the cutting or trimming
of dwarf or coniferous trees and ornamental
shrubs of various sorts, in w’hich it is necessary
to preserve a certain amount of uniformity as
regards shape and size. Among plants well
suited for this purpose are the Sweet Bay, the
Portugal Laurel, the Laurustinus, &c., trained
in the form of standards or otherwise, together
with various sorts of Cypresses and Junipers
and other plants of a drooping habit of growth;
also the Irish Yew (Taxua fastigiata), generally
trained in the form of pyramids, upon which
are sometimes grafted the gold and silver-
striped varieties of the common Yew, a union
which produces a very striking effect, as do also
trained specimens oi the fine-foliaged Maple
(Acer Negundo variegatum), which, although
deciduous, produces, nevertheless, during the
summer months a very pleasing contrast when
associated with sombre or dark-foliaged plants.

Fruit.

Vines.— By this time all late keeping kinds
of Grapes will have received the final thinning,
which should have been performed with a
lilieral hand. Lady Downes, Muscats, and some
others liable to scald when passing through the
stoning process will require close watching and
careful attention for ten days or a fortnight, as
sudden changes of temperature or checks soon
produce injury which cannot be repaired.
Sudden bursts of sunshine may have something
to do with it, but it is not caused by the sun
shining on the berries, as the first to go are
very often placed where the sun cannot reach
them. The best preventive will be keeping the
roots of the Vines under control in well-drained
borders, the houses warm through the night,
and by liberal and timely ventilation by day to
prevent the temperature of the house from
rising more rapidly than that of the berries.
When the stoning process is complete all
danger will have passed away, and the usual
routine may be resumed. In all cases the
borders should be covered with manure of some
time, the quality being regulated by their
nature and position ; and if properly drained,
the application of water through the hose or
otherwise will greatly assist the crops of swelling
fruit.

Melons. —About this time pits and frames
wflll be set at liberty by the clearance of bedding
plants. To make the best use of these, a good
stock of the leading kinds of free-setting Melons,
including Golden Gem and Victory of Bath,
should be ready for turning out, in strong, but
not over-rich, loam, placed in ridges some
18 inches fifoyi thE glass. As many of pre-

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

166

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[June U, 188 i

ceding occupants leave a colony of insects
behind, the frames and lights should be
well cleansed with boiling water, and in
order to give the plants a start, a trench
may be taken out along the centre of the old
bed, and filled in with fermenting leaves or
stable manure, which should be made very
firm before the soil is introduced. A good
external lining along the front will also assist
the plants through the early stages of growth.
Early crops now swelling or ripening off
will well repay steady attention to linings and
covering up with mats at night. Reduce the
supply of water and atmospheric moisture when
the fruit begins to change colour. Ventilate
more freely on bright days, and ensure flavour
by full exposure to sun and air. The cultivation
of Melons in houses after this time is a very
simple matter, the main points being a bottom-
heat of 85° to 90 y , plenty of air on tine days, to
secure dark green, sturdy foliage, an abundance
of water to the roots, and good syringing to
keep them free from insects.

Strawberries. —No time should be lost in
keeping Strawberries off the soil by a thin
layer of straw ; this we never require to do,
our practice being to give a thick mulching of
fresh stable litter early in May, and this by the
time the fruit needs protection is washed clean
by the rains. All varieties have grown so
vigorously that small twigs to support the
clusters of fruit will be almost a necessity, and
certainly of immense service against ravages of
slugs, which are numerous.

Old Strawberry beds that have become ex¬
hausted should be dug over as soon as the fruit
is gathered. The best method is to cut them
off with the spade just below the collar and
bury them as the work goes on, opening a
trench for the purpose sufficiently wide at the
commencement. The old tops thus dug under
will benefit the ground, especially if it be of a
heavy character. There is no better crop to
follow Strawberries when dug up at this time
of the year than Turnips, which should be
sown as soon as rain falls after the ground is pre¬
pared.

Pears and Plums on walls now need to have
all the breastwood cut back to within two, or at
most three, joints of the old wood ; but previ¬
ously select all new growths that are to be laid
in as permanent branches, and tie, nail, or fasten
them back temporarily with small sticks ; then
remove all the strongest-growing shoots from
every part of the tree, and complete the opera¬
tion at an interval of a week, thus avoiding the
check that must necessarily ensue were all cut
off at once. Finish thinning out any clusters of
fruit requiring it, and let all wall trees be washed
with clear water to dislodge the fallen blossoms
and cobwebs.

Outdoor Vines and Figs. —Disbud, stop,
and train in new growth on Vines in the open
air where such is required, as in the case of in¬
door Vines; young canes produce the finest
fruit, and provision should be made for the re¬
newal of the old ones, by occasionally training
in new shoots to take their place at the winter
pruning. Figs will require all the aid that can be
afforded in order to enable the fruit to mature,
such as exposure to full light and sunshine, by
tying aside the leaves, and stopping all growths
at the third or fourth joint, except those that
are required to cover the wall. Such constant
stopping not only represses growth and induces
fruitfulness, but aids materially the swelling of
the fruit.

Vegetables.

A most important operation in this depart¬
ment is the application of good mulching to
advancing crops of Peas, Beans, Lettuce, and
all the Brassica tribe. Where manure cannot be
obtained short Grass from the lawms, applied
after a heavy watering, will keep the ground
cool and prevent the escape of moisture. The
planting of successional crops of Cauliflowers, in
trenches as prepared for Celery, claims special
attention ; a moderate quantity put out at short
intervals is the best way to secure a steady
supply of heads at a time when ordinary treat¬
ment ends in failure. Some time ago was pointed
out the importance of pricking out all the
Brassica tribe when large enough to handle.
Where this system is followed removal to the
open quarters may take place at any time,
irrespective of drought, provided the plants
receive a thorough soaking to settle down the
soil about thsTfoots after planting. Peas may

Digitized by ^tO(^

be sown in prepared trenches every ten days*
or as often as the last planting breaks the
ground. Follow' up the planting of Celery as the
plants become ready. Choose dull or showery
days for this work, and water at once to pre¬
vent flagging. Many people have given up the
deep trench system and have gone to the other
extreme ; but to grow good crisp heads in dry
seasons it should be sufficiently low for the
plants to receive a copious flooding over the
surface. Next to good crisp vegetables, plenty
of tender Lettuce and other salading form im¬
portant factors in successful kitchen garden
management. A steady supply being the object,
a good strain of Cos Lettuce should be sown
thinly in shallow trenches, prepared as for
Cauliflowers, every ten days. Treated in this
way they can be thinned and complete their
growth without receiving a check. Thin out
growing crops of all kinds, and keep the hoe
constantly at work to prevent the appearance
of weeds.

Asparagus. —The cutting of Asparagus must
now bo stopped, and the beds will be much
benefited by a good soaking of manure W’ater ;
this, being a marine plant, enjoys salt, which, if
it’be added to the liquid at the rate of 2 ounces
to" a gallon, will materially assist Asparagus
beds, especially such as have been long in bear¬
ing. Keep the beds quite free from weeds,
which it is necessary in this case to remove by
hand, as the use of the hoe would interfere
with the plants. Beds that hare been much
cut should at the present time be encouraged by
every means to make good growth, for on this
depends their ability to keep up in years to
come their producing powers, both as regards
quantity and quality, in a H satisfactory state.
Asparagus often gets worn out much sooner
than it otherwise would through suffering
neglect after cutting has ceased.

Carrots and Turnips. —Advancing crops of
Carrots should be again looked over to see that
they are not left too thick, especially the main
sowing. Turnips also will require attention in
this respect; there are few crops suffer so much
as this if allowed to stand too close together,
as w'hen in this state they run to leaf, forming
bulbs that are not only small, but very poor in
quality.

Cabbages. —In sowing Cabbage seed for the
early spring supply, a difference of ten days
has an important influence upon the time
when the crop will be ready, and also affects
the varieties grown. In the northern parts of
the kingdom, where hardy sorts, such as the
Enfield Market, stand the winter best, the
seeds of these should be sown as soon as the
20th of the present month is passed ; delay
beyond this will cause the crop to be fit for use
later in the spring. If sown sooner many of
the plants will run to seed instead of hearting at
the proper time. Where early varieties, such
as the York, are grown, they must not be sown
until eight or ten days later, or the plants will
bolt. In the southern parts of the kingdom
Cabbages should be sown a week or even a fort¬
night later than the above dates, the later
kinds being put in first and the earliest last.
Where these directions are followed the disap¬
pointment of seeding instead of hearting will
not be experienced. Select an open situa¬
tion where the plants, from the time they are
up, will get plenty of light and air, for the
drawn and weakly plants sown near trees or
high walls are not calculated to stand a severe
winter. Some Colewort seed should now be
sown ; these will be useful for planting thickly
late in the season after other crops are cleared
off. In respect to this vegetable it is necessary
that amateurs should make sure that they get
the seed true, and not some small kind of Cab¬
bage which is sometimes substituted for it, as
the Colewort will turn in its leaves and make
useful heads when planted later than any
variety of Cabbage ; it also may be planted
under fruit trees where these are not grown
too close. Of course they will not produce
anything like the crop they will in an open
situation; nevertheless, wiiat they do yield is
so much gain, and they help to keep down
weeds. Autumn-planted Cabbages that have
been cut and the stools left to produce a crop
of Sprouts should, where the land is at all poor
or of a light nature, have a good soaking with
manure water, by which, in addition to thin¬
ning out the shoots to some two or three to
each 8tool, they will make small compact he£^,

that will come in very useful through J
autumn. r

Celery. —Where the seeds of Celery vgJ
sown early, and the plants prepared with i
view to obtaining an early supply, they will
be growing fast. Where the ground was will
enriched there will not have been any necesitj
for watering; but where there lias \m 4
deficiency of manure weekly application o:
manure will be required. Should Celery
come at all affected with greenfly, to which r.
is very subject if grown near anything eh* thE
is troubled with the insect, its presence wiil b
indicated by the leaves curling up and an q.
healthy, stunted appearance of the plants. &
soon as any aphides are found give a good tub !
ing with soapy water from the wash-boat
applying it with the syringe. To he effechals
must reach every part of the plants aUn
ground, for, even upon such portions of tk
leaves as harbour no living insects, it is is*
than likely that there are eggs which si
quickly come to life. Should they not bekiid
by one dressing give a second within t fa
days.

Cucumbers.— By this time the pits d.
houses devoted to the culture of summer
autumn Cucumbers will have been fi
with plants in various stages of growth,
in bearing will require dressing over tiia
week to prevent the young growths and hi
from becoming crowded, and as a natural o
quence unable to withstand full exposure to
sun. Apply the syringe early on line mom:
and again after the house is closed in the aft * 1
noon, after which the temperature fromssk
heat alone should run up to 85 degrees or I
degrees. If the lights are moveable, &n on
sional syringing or watering with tepid wile
from the exterior will cleanse and bawit fk
plants, as few subjects are more gnfckl fen
cleanliness than Cucumbers. After the horn
has been kept quite close for three or fonrba
a little night air w ill add to the health a
vigour of the plants whenever itcanbeadm-ta
without having resort to the application of id
fire-heat for the maintenance of a summer tel
perature of 70 degrees. Newly-planted pink
frames from which bedding plants have reed
been removed are often infested with ita
which is speedily destroyed by fumigating ri
Tobacco paper. Light smokings at intervaiii
two or three days are best, the smoke l«l
made to pass through a layer of damp Moal
prevent scorching. The usual afternoon spfy
mg, damping, and early closing should k
omitted on these occasions, but the house erp
should be well syringed and lightly ibstfcf j*
following morning. Cap-glasses over ft#
Cucumbers may be tilted on the south uotiltber
are well filled with young growths, id
the latter show a tendency to escape fre®^
finement they may be raised on four bricks
preparatory to their entire removal
plenty of water to the roots when thorou;- 1 !
established, and expose the foliage to the i*
vigorating influence of warm rains.

BOMAREAS.

During the past few years several han^ 30 '
species of Bomarea have been introduced
gardens. The engraving in our present u®
represents one of the most beautiful of

S lants, for the introduction of which we i '!

ebted to Messrs. Shuttleworth and Car-'-
w’ho have succeeded in importing and flowij*
this and other handsome species of the
B. conferta is distinguished by the t bright
and distinctness of its colour, which i*
carmine crimson, and also by its large
umbellate inflorescence. Both in the K
Gardens at Kew and in the nursery of tbf* ,
mentioned firm fine flowers have n F r6 ‘ 1I h!
and it is expected that much finer bloom*
hitherto will be borne by established
rous plants. A short description of the ^
now in cultivation may be acceptable to
readers of Gardening. . . u.

B. Carderi is the largest flowered oia.
troduced kinds. It is one of the 10081 ^
greenhouse or conservatory climbers we ^
growing freely under ordinary treatmeiy ^
yielding every year immense bunches o^ ^
and brown Lapageria-shaped flowera
are at least tw o varieties of it in na

t he poorer of which is most likely B. Jacqut *
a name once jcqcpe by th<j ^rue Card p *n*

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jcn’h 14, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

1G7

>f flower* have been produced l»y this plant,
■rhich measured almost .‘1 feet in diameter. The
lowers are very useful for cutting, as indeed are
hose of all the Bomareas, lasting for at least a
reek when kept in water.

K. cosferta has already been described. It
tows very rapidly, some of the shoots on the
vt*w plant measuring from 15 feet to 20 feet.
The foliage is dark green, closely set along the
terns, and retaining its fresh colour for the
ikole year, which renders it of excellent

well grown the flow ers measure about 2 inches
in length, are funnel-shaped, the inner segments
being longer and broader than tho outer, and a
clear, canary-yellow colour, with numerous
brown spots, whilst the outer segments are
bright yellow with a darker shade towards the
margins. These flowers are borne in close
umbels measuring about 8 inches across. This
species promises to be a good subject for pot
culture.

B. OUGASTHA is an older species, having been

botanically distinct from each other, may be de¬
scribed as not unlike the last-mentioned species.

B. Shuttleworthi is a new species described
aa bearing large loose umbels of flowers 2 inches
long, with inner segments of a bright canary-
yellow colour, the outer segments being orange-
red, spotted with purple. It is very distinct in
the foliage, resembling in shape and texture that
of Lapageria allm.

B. viteluna is yet another recently-intro¬
duced kind, said to have flowers 2 inches long,

Boniarea confert?.

' nc ® for covering pillars or columns. The
**** are borne at the ends of the stronger
and when well grown there are from
to sixty flowers in each umbel. These
peters, together with the exquisite colour
lowers, render further comment needless.
frosdea is another new introduction. It
*‘itnder growing species, well adapted for
Pj room ca nnot bo afforded for

iirj/er kinds. At Kew the plant which
**1 was weak, and not more than 3 feet
rjk yet the inflorescence wojl auite 5 incht

first introduced by the late Mr. Wilson
Saunders, in whose collection it flowered, and
was named by Mr. Baker. It is a very free
flowering kind, and forms one of the most
attractive among the species grown in the
succulent house at Kew. The flowers are yellow
with dark brown spots. The bright coral-red
berries of this species are rather ornamental,
the capsule opening and curling back so as to
display about twenty berries or seeds in each,
which hang on the plant for some weeks.

B. Caldaslana, B. multiflora, and B. edulis are
‘ er better-known kinds which, although

orange-yellow in colour, and borne in large
pendulous umbels.

B. Williamsi is the last described of Mr.
Shuttleworth’s introductions, and is said to
be a very handsome species. It has large com¬
pound umbels of rose-coloured flowers, and is
said to come near the finest of all the Bomareas,

B. fonnosissima, which is not known to be in
cultivation.

Bomareas are closely allied to AlBtroemerias,
with which they have tyEjw^ ■ iflp^uded by some
botanists. They are, however, easily distin¬
guished frotn.Jea.clv ejthpr, Bafiloreas beinjg .trueiy

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[June I

twiners and bearing their flowers in pendulous
umbels, whilst Alstru^merias are erect growing,
and bear their flowers in erect umbels.

Culture. —Bomareas are not new to cultiva¬
tion, for although until recently almost unknown,
yet they were once strongly represented in
British gardens, Dean Herbert, in his book on
“ Amaryllidacex,” enumerating a considerable
number of cultivated species. I have also been
told that Messrs. Veitch introduced a number
of species of Bomarea into their Exeter Nursery
some years ago, but owing to their failing to
sell or attract notice, they were stuck into some
out-of-the-way pi ace out-of-doors, were neglected,
and so lost. There are instances on record of
some of the Bomareas having withstood our
winters. Dean Herbert, I believe, grew several
of them in the open air, and recently we heard
that in Devon B. multiflora has stood the winter
for three years and flowered freely every year.
Careful experiment and a gradual reduction of
temperature may yet reveal the hardiness of at
least some of these newer kinds. All the
Bomareas are found at a very high elevation on
the Peruvian Andes in exposed and cold situa¬
tions. The most likely cause of failure will be
the wetness of our winters, yet this may to
some extent lx; prevented by sheltering with a
handlight or planting on a high well-drained
position.—B.

ROSES.

ROSES AND THEIR ENEMIES.

The Rose has so many enemies that it is hard
to say which does it the most harm, but I
think we are safe in concluding that the two
principal ones are the aphis, and the “ worm i !
th’ bud,” the latter being (I gather in translating
from Lachanne’s interesting book, “ Le Rosier”)
the larva? of the hymenopterous Selandrm
excavator and of the saw-fly (Hylotoma rosie).
On my Rose trees this spring I noticed two dis¬
tinct kinds of grub at the points of shoots on
the standard Briar working vigorously at the
newly-inserted buds as well as on those Briar
buds which were left to draw up the sap, but
on my dwarfs they are strangely conspicuous
by their absence, hence, I presume, I am
honoured by the presence of both the species
named ; on the other hand, the dwarf Roses
seem, as if by mutual understanding, to be the
peculiar prey of the aphis. For this cater¬
pillar there seems to be no effectual remedy
beyond a vigilant use of the w.atchmaker’s
lens, and a small pen knife wherewith to open the
tender, almost brittle, young leaves in search of
it, of course instantly crushing the marauder in
case of a successful find. Where it is too late
and the mischief done, we may derive some
consolation from the fact that the young bud
sends out in most cases two shoots in place of
the one eaten, though the blooming of the Rose
is delayed a month.

It is almost impossible to find the young of
the saw-fly earlier than when operating, for the
female deposits her eggs in a longitudinal
incision made in the bark of the Rose tree by
its saw, the minute head only of the larva
afterwards being visible. By a wise foresight
the fly, after laying the eggs in parallel grooves,
gives a cross-cut above them and at right
angles (similar to the cross-cut in budding), so
as to arrest the downward flow of the sap
which would otherwise heal up the wounds,
and at the same time effectually entomb the
young grubs or eggs. This cross-cut also causes
the shoot to bend slightly, by which the
presence of the enemy may frequently be
detected. It is very admirable, but annoying
also, to note the wisdom of the saw*-fly in
depositing its eggs near the summits or ends of
the young juicy branches, so that a suitable
repast may be at hand for the sustenance of its
progeny.

I may remark that where the “wormi’th’
bud ” is plentiful it will be better for more
attention to be given to the cultivation of Roses
on the Manetti or on own roots, my experience
being that the standard Briar is their home and
happy hunting ground. For the prolific
viviparous aphis with its one sexual acquaint¬
ance sufficient for the birth of six succeeding

f enerations, no one word of good can be said.

torn alive at the rate of seventy per day from
one mother, it instantly digs its beak into the
soft akin of the^yming shoot oi leaf and feeding

D i gitized by 0 ,

on the juices of the plant, itself in turn giving
birth, as Canon Hole says, “without love,
courtship, or matrimony,” to the next genera¬
tion. We must, however, in our wholesale
crusade against the aphis rememlter that wc
have many allies, sparing them when examining
our trees, for they are even more intent than we<
upon the destruction of the pest; in fact, were
it not for its wonderful fecundity it would
soon succumb to the survival of the fittest.
Although dealing with insects, it would
be unfair not to mention the number of
small birds which w’c should entice to our Rose
bedsby a few bread-crumbs, so that whilst there
they would no doubt catch sight of the aphis,
and work their way up the branches, consuming
thousands. Ants also should be encouraged in
the open garden instead of destroyed, for they
are so fond of the sweet excrement from the
aphis that they will seek them out and suck
them to death. Next amongst our friends
comes a very small ichneumon fly (Ophion
lutea), w’hich alights on the lxxly of this aphis
and deposits an egg in it; the wounded victim
then separates from its companions, changes
from green to rose colour, then to bronze, finally
drying up in favour of the larva* within it.
The larva* of the fly (Syrphus pyrastri) has a
most curious and interesting method of helping
us. The female lays its eggs, eighteen to twenty
in number, from early April to September, on
Rose leaves laden with aphides ; about a fort¬
night later the young larva appears, being pro¬
vided with a spear or dart in its head. It has
the power of standing on its hinder-quarters,
so to speak. Seeking in all directions for the
aphis, and finding onfe, the spear is instantly

S rotruded into the lxxly of the victim and with-
rawn with it impaled, from which the contents
are sucked. This is done so rapidly that one
has been seen to catch and consume six aphides
in seven minutes. A keen watch in spring time
with plenty of syringing (washing off the early
female aphis, mother of the summer crop of many
generations) is, so far as we are concerned, the
most we can do. They rarely have strength to
resume operations so far aw*ay, w’hilst should
any of our little friends the ants or flies go with
the rest they are no worse for the drenching. In
various works we are told to suspect all insect
life, yet as suspicion does not necessarily mean
condemnation, I suggest to Rose growers that
every insect and grub on Rose Trees should be
spared with the exception of the aphis and the
self-evident grub frequenting any shoot points.

R. A. H. 6.

NOTES ON ROCK ROSES.
Attention has been called of late in more than
one gardening journal to the great beauty of a

D of plants—the Rock Roses—not so often
in our gardens as they ought to be, and
as they formerly used to be. A question asked
lately as to the different species at present in
cultivation opens the way to this very interest¬
ing subject, and it is one which should not be
allowed to drop unnoticed. The Cistus tribe is
widely distributed, from England and France
throughout Southern Europe and Northern
Africa. Several fine species come from Teneriffe,
and a few are indigenous from the Northern
States of America and Canada, and two or three
to Mexico. They may therefore be expected to
possess different degrees of hardiness. It is
safer, however, to reckon most of the species as
being rather tender and unable to stand the
rigours of a severe English winter. The tribe
includes some of the most beautiful of hardy
perennials as well as a multitude of others stlil
more beautiful, perhaps, than the perfectly
hardy sorts, which require slight protection in
winter, and must therefore be classed as
half-hardy. There are also a few annual
species ; but as none of them are remarkable,
they may be passed over as far as the garden
sorts arc concerned. Fifty years ago more than
thirty species of Cistus proper, and some seventy
of the closely-allied Heliantliemum, were to be
found in English gardens and nurseries. Many
of the latter are, and probably many more
should be, referred to hybrid or garden origin ;
but were it not for Sweet’s “Monograph on
the Cistinea 1 ,” we Bhould know but little of
this interesting family of plants from living
specimens now to be obtained. In old gardens,
however, and here and there in some of the
best nurseries, a few of the rarer species!

g varieties inay be met with, and it is
hoped that they may again he broag
i- notice and cultivation. Rock Roses we esr
le valuable from two different points of
c Many of them are particularly well ado]
g cultivating on dry sunny banks and
e< places out-of-doors w here little else will
*e while many other fine species lend th
d to what may be termed hardy indoor
t. requiring only the protection of g
d exemption from severe frost to give a
)f return of flowers during the early i
ie invaluable to those who have unhea
•c greenhouses. u . m

s, The Cistinexe of our gardens divide the®*
g selves into two distinct groups—Cistus proper
n or Rock Roses, and Helianthemum, or Scs
y Roses. Rock Roses, as a rule, are of

ie shrubby growth, forming, in many cases, cam-
k pact, rounded bushes; while Sun Roses m
Is mostly procumbent and spreading. Hock Soa
n differ, moreover, from Sun Roses, not or !y a
is habit, but also in their larger flowers. vrtad
n are often from 2 to 3 inches acro&s,

53 in their colour, which runs through vaifippk!
y shades of deep purplish red, rose, and pakEin

t. to pure white — tints not to be found in

a allied species. Sun Roses, as a rule, have jack
g smaller flowers, which are mostly of diffnA
y shades of yellow, with some exception! w
n copper colour, toning down through dm
b- pink to white. One or two of the H4M|
>- themums come very close to Cistus—tk,
a beautiful yellow-flowered H. formosum, 44
i, is frequently taken for a true Cistut M
e having its characteristic upright habit and InfR
y flowers.

i- Some ten or twelve species arc toUralirfe*
;s quent in gardens, most of which I have g ajjH
e myself or am well acquainted with, in
ss localities more favourable to their <fer<jj|N
e ment than my own. According to sac; ti l
y perience as I have had, the different
y Rock Roses are more tender than Sun RmmI
e but the more nearly these approach in halM
o the true Cistus, the more likely they
d partake of the same constitution.
h of them are easily raised from euttinrsdl
n from seed, when seed is obtainable, the ll
:t culty being to get it true to name. A Utjjl
n cuttings put in each spring, and given I
,t protection in a cold frame or window ill
e the whiter, w r ill amply provide against ifjB
e during severe seasons. Young plants are, o|H
i. whole, more desirable than old ones, anlegftB
are carefully sheltered and cut in ju&fl
after blooming, as the majority of sptdefll
apt to lose much of their beauty, and to Mil
bare and scrubby beneath, if ntf^fl
n Localities by the sea which suit MeseakyjH
a themums are likely to suit both Rockud
n Roses to perfection, and, if I rememberirsjii
i both these families of plants are largely*
cl use of in the public gardens at Torquay*
n not having seen them in bloom I cannot
;- ticularise the species. Of late years appu^T
e these fine plants have begun to regain thj
s former popularity, for only a few day? "J
e saw a well-grown plant of a variety of the;*
u flowering Cretan Rock Rose growing on atf
;, in a sheltered spot in the churchyard of a
a coast seaside village, perfectly unscathed
c wind or weather. ;

o Any good garden soil, not too moist, h
8 most of them well, though some of the»
s tender sorts, especially when grown in F
e thrive betterin a compostof peat and sandy*
e A fact is mentioned by Sweet, which ;- j
y be noted by all Cistus growers, that rj
il tender sorts were found, in his day. 1° jj
y safely through the winter when planted 4
n north aspect, while the same which & *i
s given a southward position, as I

d favourable, were all killed. Cold, bitins w , j
!, are, in fact, more to be feared than frost’*
n have many times seen the exposedside«»fjj ,
a denuded of every leaf, while the other j (
y in luxuriant growth ; they will sometime i
e resist successfully the severe cold oi'a 4,
y winter, and after all succumb, as is theca**4
e many other plants besides, to the easterly J
; of March and April. The fleeting natt"
l their charming flowers, whose fragile, cruinj
f petals fall in a single day, is atoned for
g great abundance with which they open ' 1
i, each morning, foiy.a length of time, and in
e species contimdhg throughout the smrn« r
J|f, iW.best kpqwn of alUhp Rock-Rose*>■*

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN I

Fune 14, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

16$

favourite Gum Cistus (C. Cyprius), which is
;ii mistaken for ft nearly related but distinct
idea, C. latlaniferus. The Cyprian Gum
tus is tolerably hardy anywhere, and
te so in warm localities in the south
England. It is generally planted against
all, and is worthy of a mat in severe weather
lituations where it is likely to need protec-
i. It may be distinguished from C. ladani-
as by its smaller flowers, which are borne in
m and threes, instead of being solitary, with
icr botanical differences which need not be
;cred into here. C. ladaniferus is perhaps
i handsomest, as well as the largest, flowered
all the species, but it is not often met with in
rdenaL

The large solitary flowers are white, beauti-
lly spotted with crimson at the base of
cli petal, and its buds are also much larger
an in the Cyprian species. There is a white-
iwered variety known as C. ladaniferus albi-
>rus, to distinguish it from the above, which
described as C. ladaniferus maculatus. They
e both more tender than the common Gum
itn8. One of the white-flowered sorts most
rumonly to be met with is the sage-leaved
H_-k Rose (C. salvifolius), which, however, run3
ry closely into some others. It is chiefly to
distinguished by its flowers, which are about
e size of a florin, growing on solitary foot-
Iks, and by its blunt sage-like leaves. It is
ative of South Europe and is not particular
to soil, and though ono of the hardiest,
is the better, like most of the genus,
sheltered situation. Another desirable
ties, native to the south of France
1 Spain, is the Mountain Rock Rose (C. cor-
iensis). This also forms a compact, branch-
gjfcush, thriving in any good light garden soil
1 continuing long in bloom. Its buds, which
j {tinged with red, are very pretty before the
rers open. Of pink or purple-flowered
cies there are several.

-.have found the Cretan Rock Rose (C. ere-
.»)tobc one of the hardiest in a dry situ-
n». It forms a dwarf bush scarcely so com-
A as the wh ite- flowered species j ust m entioned,
tT requires to be pruned with care to keep it
good shape, which remark applies, more or
;V» to all the genus. Another very beautiful
" Ilf, S. European species, is C. crispus, the
rose-coloured flowers of which are quite
tinct in tint from those of any other. Of its
idiiiess in the open ground I am not able to
*k, as I have l>een too recently indebted for
> the Rev. C. Wolley Dod, but it has win-
id well in a cold frame without other pro-
tion than that of the glass. Of greenhouse
mention should be made-of two in par
^ flar,C. purpureum, with purplish-red flowers,
ieved by a beautiful dark spot at the base of
>h petal. This I have found to be not hardy,
t it makes a good pot plant for an unheated
3 •enhouse. It is a native of the Levant, and
•erves careful and liberal treatment. The
ter, C. vaginatus, a species very distinct from

3 above, is a native of Teneriffe, and is very
don met with, though its large bright pink
wers make it a handsome greenhouse shrub,
used to be grown by Mr. Wilson Saunders
Keigate, and for certain positions is very
liable, but is probably rather difficult to
Ain.

Massing from the Rock Roses (Cistus) to the
ijpe generally familiar Sun Roses (Helianthe-
iw)i we find two or three excellent com*
k^uoiu in the greenhouse for the two red-
pwerod species just referred to. H. formosum,
ten mistaken (as before said) from its shrubby,
habit and large flowers for a Cistus, is a
.y handsome sort, seldom grown, yet deserv-

4 of all care and attention. Its fine yellow

have a beautiful purple-brown spot at
W* of each petal, after the manner of the
m Ciatns. It can easily be raised from seed
~l true seed is to be obtained, or by cuttings,
ih is the better mode of perpetuating a good
kty, for, as is the case with all the Cistinea*,
lUowers are apt to vary considerably from
IL algarvense, another very beautiful
has similar -yellow, purple-spotted
^ but is much smaller, ana the spots are
nged as to give the appearance of a ring,
f these I have obtained from Mr. Back-
Irf York, who has a good collection both
““•and Helianthemum. An allied species,
il-like Sun Rose (H. ocymoides), is often
■M with

mn Rose (H. ocymoicles), is often t
H. algarvensfe, TuicL is equally ^.c

\i_7o gre

beautiful. All of the tender species, though
unable to stand the severe winter weather,
must on no account lie coddled ; they require
us much air as possible, and their treatment
should be that of cold frame rather than of
greenhouse plants.

Thk hardy species of Sex Rose, which are
mostly dwarf, shrubby, trailing plants, may be
fairly represented by three distinct types. H.
vulgare, native to Britain, and widely dis¬
tributed over Europe, breaks, under cultivation,
into a many-coloured race, well known to every
gardener as invaluable for rough rockwork,
sunny, dry banks, or level border alike, accord¬
ing to taste or convenience. Sun Roses are as
easily raised from seed as any annual, and are
best treated as very short-lived perennials,
unless they be kept well cut in, as they are
otherwise apt to get scraggy and unsightly.
They are at their best, generally, in the second
or third year, therefore it is wise to keep up a
succession of young plants. Any favourite
species can easily be perpetuated by cutting
off young, half-ripened shoots. It is for
lack of this simple precaution that Sun
Roses are often found to fall out of repute.
A much handsomer species, with broader
dark green foliage and larger flowers, is the
Hyssop-leaved Sun Rose (H. hyssopifolium). It
is the strongest growing of all the species of
Helianthemum, differing chiefly from H. vulgare
in the greater robustness in growth in all its
parts, which, however, gives it a very distinct
character. This species also runs through many
gradations of colour, from deep copper to the
palest saffron. For those who prefer them
double varieties of both these species are to be
obtained.

The third and last typical species is the
TrufHe Sun Rose (H. Tuberaria), which is said,
in its native habitats in southern Europe, often
to indicate the presence of truffles, whence its
specific name. This is a distinct species,
growing in tufts not very unlike a Plantain, for
which reason it is sometimes known also as the
Plaintain-leaved Sun Rose, and is quite different
in habit to any other. I have not succeeded in
growing it myself, either through mismanage¬
ment or some peculiarity of location ; but I
lately saw them in great luxuriance in the
Botanical Garden at Birmingham, where so
many fine plants are thoroughly at home
under the skilful direction of Mr. Latham,
who Bpoke most highly in its praise, as
a most desirable garden species. Its fine
yellow flowers are larger than those
of any other dwarf Sun Rose. From
a garden point of view, I believe the above
mentioned Rock and Sun Roses will be found
to include most of the best species easily to be
obtained, and if treated according to their re¬
quirements their culture is very simple. It is
somewhat singular that there should exist a pre¬
judice against the cultivation of half-hardy
plants such as these, though many will go to
much greater expense and trouble to grow
hothouse plants which often give a smaller re¬
turn of beauty. I would gladly persuade some
to take up the subject, as from experience I
can testify to the great interest which attaches
to this branch of gardening. A list is sub¬
joined of some of the best species of Rock and
Sun Roses other than those already named,
which were formerly in cultivation and would
be worth recovering :—Red-flowered Cistus :
C. albidus, villosus, undulatus, cymosus. White-
flowered Cistus: C. populifolius, asperifolius,
oblongifolius, acutifolius, laurifolius. Helian
themum : H. nigosum, yellow with brown tint;
scabrosum, bright yellow; tauricum, pale
yellow; H. rhodanthum, dark rose ; macran-
thon, cream; umbellatum, white; roseum,
pink. E. K. D.

Birds and seeds.— I have found the following effec¬
tual in preventing soods being torn up by birds:—I
stretched a piece of cord over the seed beds with long
feathers tied on it about every 0 or 8 foot, tied to stakes,
the cord to be about a foot or so above ground, so that the
wind may shake the feathers.—J. L.

Azalea rossBflora. —The finest specimen
we have seen of this Japanese shrub, one of the
most charming plants we know, is now in flower
in Mr. Gowers nursery at Lower Tooting. The
plants, in pots about a foot in diameter, are
I large, dense bushes, over 2 feet across, and
! fairly smothered with double rosetted blossoms
pf a lovely salmon-pink colour.

VEGETABLES.

11574.— Cucumbers not swelling.— It
is difficult to say why your Cucumbers, which
did well until recently, now fail to swell off
their fruit. Probably they are exhausted and
require to be renewed, either by thinning out
the old growths, and placing a surface dressing
of rich manure and fresh loam over the surface
of the bed, or sowing seeds and raising a fresh
stock of plants. The night temperature of tlio
house should be from 65 degs. to 70 degs., and
it might rise to 85 degs., or even 90 degs., by
sun heat.—J. D. E.

BONNEUIL LARGE WHITE CUCUMBER.

This Cucumber, which is almost always grown
in the open air, is quite distinct Jrom all other
varieties. The fruit, instead of being almost
regularly cylindrical, is ovoid in shape, swollen
about the middle, and, moreover, very percepti¬
bly flattened from end to end in three or four
places, producing the same number of angles
more or less rounded. It is very large, readily
attaining the weight of 4i pounds. Like the
fruit of the Early White Cucumber, it is at first

Bonneuil large white Cucumber.

of a pale green colour, and whitens gradually
as it increases in size. This is the Cucumber
which is most generally grown about Paris for
the perfumers, who use large quantities of it in
their manufactures.

INDOOR PLANTS.

11532.—Plants for unheated green¬
house. —There are many plants that would do
well in your house, such as Chrysanthemums,
Fuchsias, Hydrangeas, Marshal Niel and other
Tea Roses, Deutzia gracilis, Spineas, Cactus,
Nertera depressa, Saxifraga sarmentosa,
Cytisus, Primulas, &c. I have had large-
flowered Chrysanthemums in bloom in a cool
house until the end of February, such as Fair
Maid of Guernsey.—E. Margereson, Barlow,
Chesterfield.

11595.—Chrysanthemums in pots.—
You should grow the plants in an open position
out-of-doors, and see that they do not suffer
from want of water at the roots. Do not take
them into the house until the first flowers are
open. The remainder will open in the house.
Probably you took the plants in too early, and
as they are such thirsty subjects, they probably
suffered from want of water, although you
think they had sufficient.—J. D. E.

11598.—Plants fading in conserva¬
tory. —It is difficult to give any suggestion for
the management of your conservatory, as you
seem to have done all that was necessary to
obtain the best results. You say the plants
were brought from a glasshouse where there
was but a moderate heat. By this you mean
some kind of hothouse.,. In that case you ought
to take the plants out before they are fully in
bloom. Whjen flowers open in a hothb.ijise they,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Juke 14, 1884.

, , . . . ivp npaapfl into small Dots of soil. 11627.—Flower seeds for Manilla.-vriuiftire

last but a short time after their removal to a or they can pcgg po , seeds would be suitable to send out to ManillaM»*.na

greenhouse. I can only account for the unsatis- As soon as 'these layers h.A. F.

factory results you have obtained by supposing they should be planted out in rich soil, it it is 1162S ._ U8ea of Angelica. -Will any read*fa*n
that theplants^ere too much in flower Wore heavy mix plenty of leaf mould with it. They me as to the right way ofutilizing this plants f

w«rfi removed to the conservatory — will flower m winter and the following spring. H629. -Treatment of Geranium 3 .-win twm
they were removed to the conservatory. _j D £ kindly give me full, clear instructions about pwjaoa,

J. D. E. ...- Geraniums from cutting, and for their general

11581.—Agapanthus.—This plant likes a M-XmlhsudH 12, King-Street, '“"V Any hint, on the subject will mu* ;

good supply of water at the roots ; but it is not Covent Garden, London. - J. Murray.— You should ___ x*, A -

a good plan to place it in pans of water. We «,e ' fnditojl'<*£££*£-£; For .everJ^ pji my N^cissn.^

flower it finely every year out-of-doors, and do „ nroduce yellow and purple flowers on the but the outer sheath withers, so, also, does the

not give more water than other plants receive, branch. - Geo. Smith.—We know of no good book flower. Soil, light and sandy, but well nunurai-bja

_J, J). E. on the subject.- A. C.- There is no general key to heath.

-J. D. E.

are propagated by taking cuttings of the nearly Whenever y
ripe wood off at a joint, and inserting them in what it is, ii
^ r _ 1 _:i rri_„x n„ffinrra our Ouery c

space between to uo uuou u» »» ™ ■ —-j -—— —- . -» , , ,,

bell-glass should be placed over the cuttings

with its rim resting on the sand. They will Nftmes of planta ._ C , (J.-Claytonia perfoliate.

root slowly but surely m a greenhouse. Ihe _ c.J. Hyde.— We do not name Pansies or other florists'

glass should be taken off and wiped three or flowers.- — Pensu.— We do not name varieties of the
four times in a week. Cuttings of most hard-

’ ' .. . . _r n I gardening like there is to arithmetic. Each subject must 11031. —Perennial Balsams. -I have just bit*

11592.—Propagating ti-enistas. ineso |£ 0 treated individually and according to circumstances, plants of Perennial Balsams given to me. Inaverdtm

. ‘* ' * ’ - 1 ‘ you are in trouble if you will kindly let us know to Vols. 3, 4, and 5 of Gardening, and can find noEastj

in the form of a question, we will insert it in of such a plant, and shall therefore be glad of ut t- r
columns, and no doubt you will get it satisfac- mation respecting the same, as I am told thai they tea

wered.- T. C .—Your question was duly in- in my neighbourhood.—J. G. W.

■II. E. F.—We received the flower you sent. It 11632.— Cucumbers turning yellow. -1 ha*-
common for the Eucalyptus to flower in this Cucumber plant the fruit of which grow to a fair sisu,
Jut it occasionally does so under glass.- -H. then turn yellow at the end and fall off, and Hie hie
Try Messrs. Connell and Sons, Swanley, Kent. dies. Would any readers recommend what to <k ;

3 of plants.— G. G .— Claytonia perfoliata. prevent it? They are in a span-roofed greenh?!*-
Uyde.—We do not name Pansies or other florists’ Subscriber.

—Pensie .—We do not name varieties of the 11633.— MOSS manure for hot-beds.-Thu ja ’
-Church I.angton. —1, _ Asplenium hulbiferum; j have had one hot-bed made up of ordinary stabijESB*

Names of plants.— G. G.— Claytonia perfoliata.

_ C. J. Hyde.— We do not name Pansies or other florists'

flowers.- Pensu .—We do not name varieties of the

pansy.- Church I.angton.—I, Asplenium hulbiferum;

frnwiilimKP will form roots in 2, Adlan turn formosum; 3, Pteris tremula ;; 4, Asplenium and leaves and another of Moss manure and lai& t

wooded greenhouse plants will form roots in flacci(lum - Kirkby.-l, Ranunculus aconitifohus, fl.-pi. ; gardener prepared both in the same way, faraisu!

this way. Of course they must be kept mode- 2 , Spinea Thunbergi.- A. E. Balwin .—Diplacus gluti- watering in the ordinary way, but he tells me tteniii

ratelv moist at the roots. But the one pot nosus.-C. C. Hatjleld .—Diplacus glutinoeus. Ai.— heat at all in the bed made of the Mosg manure. fair

Kaino- pnclnsod in another and the bell-glass Muscari comosum.- A. Ilobinson .—Ixia craterioides one exp i a in the reason of this, as I undenwoiss

bemg enclosed in anotner, ana tne u g (bu ibous plant). - Lryl House - Ccanothus dentatua. Moss n V anure was first-rate for hot-bed*?-Bm a

also over the plants, prevents evaporation to a A s Double Poets Nareissus (N. poeticus fl.-pl.) ; blossoms

ANSWERS TO QUERIES. Sum Wile. Uniqiu . r Apparently a species of £^52

(MISCELLANEOUS.) probably a Tritonia.— A. D- 1. Scolopondrium aa .t open, so aa to avo,d weaken,a S tb» pha-AEtl

V - * . A J A vulgare cristatum; 2, Scolopendrium vulgare crispum; 3, 11635.—Greenfly on Roses.—Are “

11571.—Cockroaches.-Try a liberal use of powdered Cor b vda ] ia claviculata; species of Thlaspi.- Ganhntr.— ants good things to eat up the greenfly on Baw-J a

borax. Report results.—S axos Dkynk. Ccrasus Padus (Bird cherry). R. G. V .—Clianthus what is?— Rbdolh.

11591 .— Liquid manure.— You could not have better puniceus.- E. F. L. — brnithogalum umbellatum H636.—Liquid manure for Bosea.-B* sa?:'

manure water than horse droppings soaked in water until (white); Collomia coccinca (red); Hesperia niatronahs times a week should I give liquid manure to

it. fnnm aclear dark brown liquid. Rather err on the side (purple).- G. IE.—1, Trndescantia virginica; 2, Gladiolus t h ev first come into bud, also what makes the w tafl

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MlSCBLLANROtrfl.) probably a Tritonia.- P. A. D.—l, Scolopendnum. • _ ,

V vulgare cristatum ; 2, Scolopendrium vulgare crispum ; 3, 11635.— Greenfly on Roses.— Are ladr-birfa

11571.— Cockroaches. -Try a liberal use of powdered Cor b vda i ia claviculata; species of Thlaspi.- GanUner.— | ants good things to eat up the greenfly on Ba»-J a

borax. Report results.-S axon Dktnk. Ccrasus Padus (Bird cherry).- R. G. V .—Clianthus

11591.— Liquid manure. —You could not have better puniceus.- E. F. L .—brnithogalum umbellatum

manure water than horse droppings soaked in water until (white); Collomia coccinca (red); Hesperia matronalis

it fonns aclear dark brown liquid. Rather err on the side (purple).- G. IE.—1, Tradescantia virginica; 2, Gladiolus

of having it too weak than too strong. Roses, Chrysan- hyzantinug ; 3, SchiEostylis coccinca; 4, Celsia Arctunis.

themums, and Dahlias would be greatly benefited by it, _I— Buttercup. -1, A species of Ranunculus; send lower

and it might be used weak for all kinds of soft-wooded pot leaves ; 2 and 3, Species of Tragopogon.- O. 0 .—Ornus

. V n n _ It.,__ <J, rintwi /'Pl'iilnilolnnna'1

Corvdalis claviculata; species of Thlaspi.- Ganiener.—

Ccrasus Padus (Bird cherry).- R. G. E.—Clianthus

puniceus.- E. F. L. — brnithogalum umbellatum

plants.—J. D. E.

11586. — Waste paper as manure. —This
material I have found, by experience, makes
very good manure. I once, by way of experi¬
ment, for several years in succession manured a
small plot with waste paper, with quite satis¬
factory results. It soon disappears in the soil,

(white); Collomia coccinca (red); Hesperia matronalis times a week should I give liquid manure to

(purple).- G. IE.—1, Tradescantia virginica; 2, Gladiolus t h ev first come into bud, also what makes tin b* t U

byzantinus ; 3, Schizostylis coccinca; 4, Celsia Arcturus. ma nure Roses ?—Kkdols.

- Buttercup.-1, A species of Ranunculus ; send lower n 637.-Liquid manure for Gladioli.-Ai*

leaves ; 2 and 3 Species of Tragopogon.—-0. ^0.—Ormis riod Qf thejr should GladioU have

europams. No flowers sent of the Syringa (Philadelphus). ^, hat ouantitv should be given, also what is the

- Trfloiparrcn. Abuttlon viLfobura ol which a capital lninur ‘ u , or tilem ,_ Relx)L8 .

agure ap|>cared In the (.nnfcn of March 10th, 1883. UG38. -Planting Tuberoses -When *«VJ<

-- roses be planted, so as to have them in bloom in Nnjsj

i^T-rci-OT'Gia a™ 1 December? Stove heat can be given. 1

hU iliXtlihO. Alstromerias in jxits this spring and the

- them down to the roots ; is there any chance of W J

Rules for Correspondents.— All communication anything this summer if planted out?—V*. H. J.

an j imnrnvfts its texture Saw-dust or even for insertion should be dearly and conciselywritten onone U639.-Rose Cheshunt hybrid.-^
and it improves its texture, saw oust, or ev en ^ ^ pa ^ r ^ a)id to the Editor. Letters spondent «ve me a hint as to treatment of Rose CW<

wood shavings, would improve poor, Stitt land re iati 1X g to business to the Pdbushrr. The name and h Vb rid ? It is in a cool greenhouse apart*
if the cultivator had patience to wait a year or address of the sender it required , in addition to any norn facing w est, and is four years old and 10 feet high.-I
two till it could decompose. If a manure heap de plume to be used in the WW- Answers t0 Q ue ™* 11640 .—Rats.—A little time ago someofyoafwjj

were made oe a bed of saw-duet, the saw-dus? XZ& -J -

would absorb the fertdizing properties of the be „„ „ „parate pi.™ 0 /paper, bmiig to Ike ncc«»,I|/ oj

manure that otherwise would have been washed OARDKSiseyo.ng toprsw o c^^bt,ti,nebt/onjk>day “ ■ ^ wherever thee >*»■

away and l-t, whilst the soakiugs from the ’Z^i Z o-ij I .

manure would hasten the decomposition of the amlcmd thm dd fount tom again. Soever fomid ; ^r SbSSd’thfhole. be lift***

saw-dust.—L. C. K. Namingf plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only far aa possible, and the sawdust put into t« ^

T.Anthftr dnnt._Thi^ is useless can ^ named at one time, and this only when pood 8ftwdu gt about the roots of a plant injun 2

J.i I?* x • • ; r?i ui • ! specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name varieties b IN(JLKYi y orks ,

until the tannin is got nd of. If trouble is not 0 f florist /lowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas, -Rmccnli not flowering.-1 H**'”

an object, soak in a strong warm solution of as these can only be correctly natned by a specialist who t heSthv Broccoli plants in my garden
commonsoda for an hour ortwo, stirrmgweU ; » ^1 Ucrl ng . P Are

strain, then wash m cold water. The leather— accompany die parcel. Brassica. m

or rather the animal matter-can then be mixed n621 ._ C y C lamena after blooming -WTmt is «

with ordinary potting or garden soil; but, as in the proper treatment of Cyclamens after blooming, to T tVw.m ?-R. B.

the case of bone dust, the effect will be slow, ensure their blooming again next winter? Are they
A better plan, if stable manure is handy, is to "‘“J ,rom an< * " thU tho tlme ,or MW ‘" K

vs no signs of now’cnng. Are me) aw -

* Pin ifiair a

i8 11642.— Ants in Peach trees.-^^^a!

mv orchard house, and all the Peaches are I

Booiled. How can I get rid of them?—B- *>• I

a^inncxtwInterl Aiwthey How can 1 got rid .1 U,em a

ptnd is this the time for sowing 11643.—^Camellias and Anuna-iJ

make a heap of alternate layers of manure and “Ij^.^Tea Roaes.-I have three Tea Bose trees on A^whstk^

distanned leather dust, covering with a good own roots that , bought in j an uarj- last, and I have just about to be P®”*

layer of soil to keep in the ammonia evolved in cut the last blooms from them. There seems to be no . * . « « a ’

the decomposition of the animal matter. This more buds forming. Should I treat them now’ the same as Pmonies not blooming-- ^ ^

•11 i ^ .. i r . *i;. utUmnnno o if blooming (they are in a small greenhouse where there is 11644. r^ 80 Oni ©8 nop ih*'**^

will make a capital fertilizer , but it means a lot lent G f sun), or should I stand them outdoors and inform me why Peonies do not tiovwli *^
of work.— Saxon DEYNE. water them as usual? Anv information as to future sorts; they come up year after year, ana ^ ^

_1_ t —1„ x. treatment of them will he tha~nkfullv received.—A. M. —the common rose-coloured one-Anau. .

(alba) and an Arum Lily (Calla wthopea) uj* fl
it be safe to plant them out permanently in
if so, what is the best aspect? Also what

^„!,to V hc J 'ni ^ Chrysanthcmuina, nine' about to b. P»

I treatment of them will be thankfully received.—A. M,

l.—Melon culture. — Would nny reader of “ p 5 Sn Jd *

cvn ko lcSvwl nnnmrh tr> trive me ROIlie instnietlOnB CO me U P W* 1 ** “tS6 J

ell-mulched in the

of work.— Saxon DEYNE. water them as usual? Anv information as to future sorts ; they come up year after year, ana •

11528.— Weeds on lawns.-In reply to treatment olthem will bo thanklully recolved.-A_M. mcy^woll-mnlchcd in tof**

“ L C - H - D -”‘ he qBAntity of “It must depend Q^'^'SSd Jo me »m. instructions com. up thin and stra^ly with fo ■*»«£ ■'

upon the quantity of weeds, such as Plamtains, as to the stopping training of Melons, also how to set the 11645.—Machine for

Daisies, and others. If it is applied individually fruit? I have ten plants in frames, heated by manure. Canany readerof J®. ® 0 f it?

to each, as much as will cover the centre of the ^^^tS^Tor^VlmlV^Any oi' Sanmeison's^^l'xW hi. On-

plant will be sufficient ; but where the weeds of tiong would oblIge _ A Yo uno Beglvnbr. independent, and to cut the edges

all kinds are very abundant, I am of opinion 1162 4._Roses for conservatory.-Would some- 11646.-Greengfaere trees not

that a general dressmg of salt, as much as the one be kind enough to inform me if the following Roses tw-o Greengage trees on a soutn w js

Grass would bear, would improve the Grass, and would do well on the roof and walls of a small conservatory which blossom j ear , > make a p-eat ^

get rid of the weeds and also grubs and worms. S.'aM ^ eld am iljtaNfe nnn^llv W, have trirf

I intend to try this in the autumn as an expen- west end> brick-viz., Marechal Niel, Gloire de Dijon, effect. The trees are, to all .^n

ment, as the quantity to be used safely would Madame Talcot, Boule dcNeige, Niphetos, and La France? gestions would much oblige as

varv somewhat on different kinds of soil • but it Which are the best, and how many could I plant to grow in these trees to bear fruit, r. &. n_

x ary some what on ditterent kinas or sou out it 8ucha8tructure? Those for covering the roof I should plant H647.-Waterinsr plants. -It

must be borne in mind that m either mode of ou t 8 lde and bring them in as in the case of vines. Theothers greenhouse flowers should, from n0 * houW *k° Jf

treatment the salt must be applied in early for covering the walls would be planted iuBide in a very watered in the evening. Where ? ret ' 1 ’" app ly

spring or late autumn in order to give the Grass narrow border. Could I procure some in pots to plant ^ a cool vinery will the same a

+5rn A in monvor hoforo tho following summer and at once ? If 80 » would be advi9ftble ?— Devonian. Robixson. b

. , p tx ’ 11625. — Gunnera scabra.— I am anxious to know H648. — Grubs In Apple trees-

in dry weather for preference. W. R. BAKER. best position, soil, and treatment for Gunnera scabra, trees liere, in Southport and ®* r ^. tde, on ( th^ 1 ^
11577.—Violets.-You will now find a and is perfectly hardy. A Constant Reader. that our Apple, trees^are

number of runners forming on the plants, like StGS ,

Strawberry runners. They must lie pegged to ^tion of AloeB for greenfly? I am informed it is a per- particulars of a very destnicti™ ^ Aff)lfiC iiltui*
the ground, AD Dause them tolform roots quickly, feet cure.— Sandoatk. ! has become thoroughly dishearw

gitized by CiOOQiP " J

rS URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

11577. — Violets. —You will now find a and is perfectly hardy
number of runners forming on the plants, like ttUSTtaS

Strawberry runners. They must lie pegged to ^tion of AloeB for g
the ground, pi Dause them toifonn roots quickly, feet cure.— Sandoatk.

isitixfabyfjOi'dTe

11625.—Gunnera scabra.—I am anxious to know 11648.—Grubs in Apple trees.

the best position, soil, and treatment for Gunnera scabra, trees here, in Southport and BirKaaie, .f

and is perfectly hardy.—A Constant Reader. that our'Apple trees are yearly d,J'U'IT

1

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

VOL. VI.

JUNE 21, 1884.

No. 276.

FRUIT.

NOTES ON VINE CULTURE.

Mm some time before and after midsummer
Tines require more attention than any other in-
loor fruits, and by carefully and timely looking
dtcr their wants at this season, the crops which
they are now producing will not only mature
properly, but a good foundation will be laid for
next year’s crop.

Watering.

When Vines are in full growth, as all of them
ire just now, it is almost impossible to give too
nuch water at the root. Even in borders badly
Irained anything approaching dryness should
lever be allowed to occur, and where the borders
re as well drained as they should be, copious
nd frequent waterings are absolutely necessary
n order to insure free and perfect development
>f wood, leaves, and fruit. There should never
w any stated time for giving water. Some may
nake a practice of watering at the root once a
ortnight, and others may do so when growth
egins, when the fruit is formed, and again when
t U half swelled, and that is all. But it is not
vdf enough, and those who follow a rule of this
ind would soon find out the advantage of being
wre liberal with water if they would only try
he experiment for the sake of comparison. The
ppearance of the inside borders is often very
eceptive. They look as if they were wet and
i proper condition for the roots, but frequently
ley are nothing of the kind ; the surface only
i wet, while uuderneath, where the principal
coders are, they arc dry. Vines in a properly
lade border would be greatly benefited by being
horoughly watered once a fortnight at the
resent time, while their roots arc active. In
oor soil or old borders, manure water may be
iven with advantage. One handful of the best
nano dissolved in four gallons of water is a
litablc rate at whhjh to apply this stimulant,
ometiiiies it is spread on the surface and
vatcred in, but this plan is not so immediate in
U ejects as w r hen dissolved. All kinds of
namings from manure heaps are good for Vines
Lfl'l should be utilised. Borders recently made,
•rrich in manure, should not have manure water,
>ut abundance of clean water ; other artificial
oanures should be spread on the surface and
lashed down to the roots. We simply give a
uight, moderate, or heavy coating, according to
l\ Vi nes and the condition of

j toiler. Soot is one of the cheapest of all
u rowings which can be watered into a Vine
u Cr ^ D0W ’ °* course ** is not 80 nutritious
“ nianufactured manures, but it keeps

insects in check, and makes foliage rich in colour.

Stopping and Training.

' k®* not give satisfaction unless thes
[‘• rations are properly attended to. Stoppin
he shoots for the first time at the first o
second joint beyond the best bunch is an old wa
°t ucaling with them, and no modern system i
* ?u perior m ay be well to poin

k m it out successfully stoppini

<nouM not be too long delayed. When the Vine
‘■ne healthy and growing fast the shoots soon rui
Q * n i en gth ; they should, however

* -’hecked long before that takes place, and th
J” to do this is immediately the positioi
f fi 6 u* ^ )unc .i 1 cau i* 5 ascertained. The poin
bn* shoot, being then young and tender, mai
f <as dy removed by means of the forefinger an<
tomb. In a week or two after this the bu<
*MBd the stoppage will push into growth, an<
u m its turn must be stopped. This should bi
. at fhe next formed joint, and when growtl
breaks out, as it will he doing at th.
F^nt time, the same operation should he re
u and omvftrds Rfter this no young shoot
-40UM be allowed to extend except those wantei
,«f>ung fruiting canes next season. All Vine
a strong tendency to grow just now, but tin
.• mu ^ checked and kept well in hand
mg an innumerable quantity of small slioo^
nm all over the roof, and/shade and smotli
^ shoots and fruit fe ph*™

°f M good this ycur/W! nj'tuier

proper maturing of the wood for another season’s
work. The young rods for fruiting next year
may be allowed to run as far up as the ordinary
rods go, but when they have acquired a reason¬
able length it is better to restrict them, so as to
have substantial wood, than encourage the
formation of superfluous growth. Tying ill the
shoots must also begin as soon as stopping
commences. Some shoots go the right way for
tying on to the wires from the first and give no
trouble, but others run straight up to the glass
or take an opposite way to that in which they
are wanted to go, and it is these which take
some training. At first they require to be
carefully handled, as the slightest twist or strain
will cause them to snap off at their union with
the old wood. In the beginning they must only
be gently drawn down a short distance and be
tied there for a time, and in a week or so they
may again be drawn down a little, and possibly
on the third occasion they may be secured in
their proper place. Crowding so that the leaves
overlap each other should never occur. To avoid
this, when the rods are young and the buds close
together, a good many of them should be rubl>ed
off. If shoots or spurs are emitted from the
rods at a distance of l foot or thereabouts,
there will be nothing objectionable in their
distribution.

Thinning the Fruit.

This consists in reducing the hunches where too
numerous and thinning the berries of those left
for a crop. The question is frequently asked,
What weight should I allow each Vine to carry,
i.e.y how many bunches per rod makes a good
crop? To this question I will not undertake to
give a definite answer, so much depends on the
age and strength of the Vines. A Vine might
mature fifteen ‘2-lb. bunches; whereas half this
number of 4-lb. or 5-lb. clusters would be enough.
Where the crop was excessive last year, and the
fruit did not perfect in consequence, the Vines
should be dealt with more moderately this
season, and when it has been discovered, as any¬
one may soon do, what weight each Vine or
house will bear with impunity, adhere to that.
No bunches, except very small or deformed ones,
should be thinned off until after they have
bloomed and the berries have become formed. In
the case of Muscats especially, some of the finest-
looking bunches may fail to set properly, while
the smaller ones may do so and be the most
compact. These, therefore, should be allowed
to produce the crop. Bunches composed chiefly
of small berries, with few or no stones in them,
should always be cut off, and as a rule, where
there are two or three bunches on one shoot,
often the case, all but one should be removed,
the principal object to be kept in view being to
allow every Vine to carry a fair share of the

g eneral crop and have the bunches as evenly
istributed as possible. After the number of
bunches has been selected, thinning the berries
should be commenced. They should never be
allowed to become larger than Peas before being
thinned, and must on no account be permitted
to become massed together. It is easy to thin
them when loose and pliable, but when firmly
packed the operation takes longer time and the
worst berries connot be so well seen and cut out.
In thinning, all the smallest sized ones should
be removed, the inside of the bunch should be
well cleared, and the outside berries, which go
to form the size and shapeliness of the bunch,
should be preserved. Those not thoroughly
conversant with thinning are always inclined to
leave too many berries, and the result is that
before they arc half swelled or begin to ripen
they are so close that they cannot swell without
bursting. In that case every bunch should he
gone carefully over, aud the berries which
cause the pressure should be out out with long
sharp-pointed scissors. The majority of Grapes
will have been thinned by this time, but many
bunches may still ho too crowded, and should be
relieved.

Insects.

All kinds of insects must be kept in check if
not whqlly exterminated, Red spider, thrips,

and mealy bug arc the most troublesome. The
two former eat the leaves, disfigure them, and
check their growth. Mealy bug sometimes finds
its way into the bunches and renders them un¬
palatable. In winter, at dressing and clearing
time, mealy bug may be cleared off, but unless
the most stringent measures have been taken
to do this it will again make its appearance.
One of the best ways of checking it is going
carefully over the Vines now and destroying
all that can be found. Frequent syringing,
too, displaces it, and this is destruction to the
red spider and thrips. Some insecticides are
useful in these cases, but to work with them
when the Vines are in full leaf and fruit requires
special care, or damage may be the result.

Giving air in proper quantity and at the right
time is another matter requiring at present con¬
siderable attention. Many vineries suffer from
not receiving sufficient care in this way. In
large places the vineries are opened hourly if need
be, according to sun and shade, but amateurs
have often to ventilate in the morning, and in
that position the ventilators remain all day. In
cases of this kind I would recommend the roof
to be slightly shaded, and at this season a little
air admitted at back and front constantly. In
this way it is astonishing how the health of the
Vines can be maintained, but when grown with¬
out proper ventilation, and kept too close, insects
are the only inmates of the vinery which really
prosper. When it is desired to force Grapes to
ripen at this season, the best way is to keep up
the temperature of the house by means of fire
heat, and, at the same time, let abundance of air
circulate through it. C.

Summer pruning of fruit trees.— This
is a most important part of fruit culture, and
one that is too frequently sadly neglected ; for
if only a tithe of tne attention that is lavished
on fruit trees grown under glass were bestowed
on wall trees and open-air trees and bushes, the
results would be very much more satisfactory.
The disbudding, stopping, and daily attention
of syringing, and other items of good culture,
are too frequently altogether ignored, and the
trees are allowed to grow wild until the season
is far advanced ; and then to make up for past
neglect the trees get what I frequently hear
called a good pruning. That means cutting out
nearly all the young growth of the current
year. When such a dense mass of young
wood is removed, the foliage that has been so
long shaded frequently suffers from sudden
exposure, the growth of the tree is mate¬
rially checked, and the buds, on which next
season’8 crop depends, do not get properly
matured. After trying all sorts of plans, I am
thoroughly convinced that there is nothing
equal to the little-and-often system of pruning,
or, rather, pinching ; for, if taken in time, the
soft young shoots can be readilv removed by
the finger and thumb, and it is really the easiest
way, for a fair-sized garden may be looked over
two or three times a week during the season of
active growth, and all the shoots needing re¬
moval pinched off in a very short space
of time. Any curled or blistered leaves
may be removed at the same time, and
insect pests may be greatly lessened, if not re¬
moved, while the main leaves of the tree get
the full benefit of sun and air, and all the sap
that would be wasted in forming a lot of useless
wood, is diverted to the more useful work of
swelling up the fruit or plumping up buds for
next season’s crop. Apricots, Plums, and Pears,
and such fruits as are usually trained as hori¬
zontal or fan-shaped trees, and that bear fruit
mostly on spurs, should have all the fore-right
shoots pinched out at the point as soon as they
have made 0 inches of growth, while Peaches,
Nectarines, and Morello Cherries should have
all the wood buds not required for laying in
rubbed clean off as soon as they can be taken
hold of, or pinched in quite close, if leaveB are
left at tie) base, as the leaves are undoubtedly
helpful to the fruit. As regards bush fruits, 1
may specially n ention Nuts p.n<{ Red Currants

172

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[June 21, 1884.

as being greatly benefited by taking off the tops
of all the erect growing shoots as soon as they
are 1 foot high. The upward flow of sap is
arrested, light and air is freely admitted to the
centre of the bushes, and the centre of the bush
becomes as fruitful as the branches usually are.
It is a sign of bad fruit culture when large quan¬
tities of growth are cut off at one time, and
anyone giving the above plan a fair trial will, I
am sure, be amply repaid by not only more
abundant but finer crops of fruit.— J. G.,
Hants.

Late forced Strawberries.— Few fruits
cultivated under glass repay the labour bestowed
on them so well as Strawberries, provided they
are not hurried on in high temperatures with
the object of getting ripe fruit in March or the
early half of April; for fire-heat is not only
expensive, but the produce of plants brought on
gently by solar heat is so much greater that the
majority of those who grow this luscious fruit
for market find a low price in May and June
repay them far better than a very high figure
per lb. much earlier in the season ; and for the
same reason I would recommend those who
have a limited quantity of glass structures not
to attempt early forcing of Strawberries, but to
concentrate their efforts on having a full crop
from the first of May until the outdoor crop is
ready to take up the supply ; for at no period of
the year is the supply of home-grow’n fruit at
such a low ebb. The fruit-room shelves are
nearly bare, and there is but little variety in the
way of dessert fruit unless some attempt is
made to anticipate the outdoor Strawberry crop
by growing in pots, according to space at dis¬
posal ; and even in gardens of limited extent a
supply equal to the requirements of a moderate
family may be grown without any special house
or pit ; for their wants are of the simplest kind,
and anyone giving them a fair trial will, I am
confident, not readily give up so inexpensive a
luxury. The following routine I have proved
over and over again to yield satisfactory returns
—viz.,, always plant out some late runners
in an open position to get a supply of
young plants from, for layering in small
pots as early in the season as they are procur¬
able, some time during the month of June,
according to season and locality. We use
3-inch pots, filled with good turfy loam, and a
little rotten manure made quite firm. The pots
are plunged into the soil around the parent
plants, and the layers or runners are pressed
into the soil in the centre of the pots, and secured
with a large stone. They are kept freely
watered, and in three w'eeks are rooted suffi¬
ciently to be cut off and transferred to the
fruiting pots. We use 7-inch pots and the same
kind of soil as they were layered into. A bed
of coal ashes, in an open sunny position, is the
best place for them, and at no time must they
lie allowed to get dry at the root. They are
greatly benefited by a good w’ashing overhead,
after hot days in August and September, but
after October comes in the rain is usually suffi¬
cient to keep the soil moist in the pots. In
November we pack the pots closely together in
any spare pit or frame, or on the floor of a cold
house, where they remain until the days begin
to lengthen in spring, when, with the gradually
increasing temperature, growth will be sturdy,
and similar to plants out of doors. The earliest
sorts should be set up on the lightest shelves in
the houses available in February, and the later
ones for succession, as they begin to push up
their flower spikes; but for the latest crop
under glass it is a good plan to have some
in pits or frames, as they do not need so
much water as those on dry, airy shelves.
The main points to attend to are plenty of light
and air, and abundance of w’ater at the root.
In hot weather plants loaded with fruit will
need water twice a day. If very large fruit is
desired the bloom must be thinned out freeljq
leaving the largest blossoms only; but, as a
rule, the plants, if well treated from start to
finish, will carry from twelve to twenty fine
fruit fit for dessert, as well as a goodly lot of
small fruit fit for culinary purposes, without
any thinning, and for amateurs this is the best
plan to adopt. I know many who, having
followed the above plan, in addition to
growing their usual supply of bedding and
other greenhouse plants on their top shelves
during winter, gefc,-^ full crop o£ Strawberries
in the spring at/a vcryiLtriflina Jratjay, for by
putting up a d< Acn Bc k l vo to the top

shelves, as space can be made for them, a con¬
stant succession for two months is secured. I
grow Viscountess Herieart de Thury for
the first crop, then Keen’s Seedling, followed by
President and Sir Charles Napier, and a few
British Queen ; and out of several hundred pots
we have not had half-a-dozen unfruitful ones,
every plant carrying a regular crop. With
our variable climate I feel sure that the crop
of Strawberries that may be grown in cool
houses is one of the most satisfactory and re¬
liable that can be attempted, for I nnd fewer
failures with them than with any other crop.—
James Groom, Gosport.

Best black and white Grapes.— The
best black Grape is doubtless the Black Ham¬
burgh, which is grown in greater numbers than
all other sorts put together ; and as to the best
white companion for it, I should say for general
purposes Foster’s Seedling. It would not be
awarded a prize if placed in competition with
Muscat of Alexandria, but it will beat the
Muscat on almost every point in which the
average (.rape cultivator requires it to do, t.r.,
it will show bunches abundantly under almost
any kind of training or pruning, and will set
its fruit evenly and well in a greenhouse tem¬
perature. Its bunches, too, are handsome,
being exceptionally well-proportioned, and old
Vines of this kind are just as fruitful as many
kinds arc at three years old. Give it good
culture and time to ripen its fruit thoroughly,
until it assumes a golden colour, and there will
be no lack of flavour. The question of what
Grapes to plant can only be settled by knowing
the special requirements of any particular case.
But for a black and white Grane to suit the
majority, Black Hamburgh and Foster’s Seed¬
ling will be found trustworthy.—J.

Gooseberry caterpillar.— Now that the
season has come when the Gooseberry cater¬
pillar makes its presence known by divesting
the trees of their foliage, I think it should be
generally known that this unwelcome visitor
may be quickly despatched by syringing the
trees with a solution of Gishurst compound ;
about from 2 ounces to 3 ounces to the gallon
of water will do, taking care to thoroughly
wet the foliage and wood. I have also tried
this season a decoction of the common Foxglove
(Digitalis purpurea), with the same results,
viz., dead caterpillars, but I prefer the first
remedy, as the foliage and fruit look much
cleaner after it, and do not require so much
syringing with clean water afterwards, i.c., if
rain does not como to wash them instead.—
C. B. W.

11599.—Leaves falling from Peach
trees.—The leaves would drop from various
causes. As they turn yellow and drop off, it is
probable that they lack sufficient water at the
roots ; but as you say you have watered the
borders, have you given them sufficient ? The
soil dries very much when the trees are at rest
in the winter ; and a large supply of water is
required to thoroughly wet the soil to the
bottom. If the border is 20 feet by 12 feet
I would give at least 75 gallons of water to it at
first. Are there any of the Peach aphis on the
trees ? This causes the leaves to curl and drop
off. Red spider will also do so, but that does
not show itself in the early stages of the plant’s
growth. Further, an attack of fungus on the
roots will paralyse the trees, and also cause the
leaves to become yellow.—J. D. E.

11602. —Vine for planting.— A Vine forced
last winter would not be so good for planting as
a young one. The roots coil round the pots, and
the whole Vine becomes somewhat stunted when
it has been more than a year in a pot, and they
never, under such conditions, start as freely as
a young Vine. By good culture a single Vine
eye put in during January or early in February
will furnish a stout cane the whole length of the
rafters of any vinery in one season.—J. D. E.

11000.— Vine leaves turning pale.— If
the plants you have in the vinery are over the
border, there would be a considerable quantity
of water draining through the pots on to it ; in
fact, the borders will sometimes become a
sodden mass from this cause, in which the roots
cannot thrive. I cannot account for the leaves
on the late growths becoming sickly from any
other cause but want of root action from their
being injured by penetrating this unsuitable
soil.-^J. D. E.

lifill.—Heading down Plum trees —It must not
be done now ; better wait until autUTT)».—J. p. EJ.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

Hardy trees now in flower.— Very pro
minent amongst flowering trees ju6t now are
Paul’s Crimson Thorn ana the snowy Mespilu*.
The first-named is now’ well known, though
scarcely so freely used as it might or ought to
be, neither is the Mespilus so frequently met
w ith as one might expect considering its vigour,
hardiness, and extreme ly ornamental character.
These two trees should be grown where
space can be found for them. Spiraa ulmifc
is a neat, compact habited, but tolerably vigo¬
rous growdng species. It clothes itself with
foliage from the ground upwards, and the
flowers, which are white, are numerously pro¬
duced ; it is an attractive kind. WeigeU Abel
Carrtere is a fine variety of this useful floweni.
shrub, the flowers being very rich in colour a:
so closely set on the stems as to render it \-= .
effective. Lilacs have not bloomed well thu
year. Especially notewort hy amongst then so
a palc-colourcd variety, with very large turf©
of bloom, called unguis; and a very darj^^^H
variety named Josiksea. The foliage of tha
so curious and distinct that one woold^^H
take it for a Lilac when not in bloom. AmB
meda Catesbad is a free flowering, rathergnB
ful grow ing shrub, and Daphne Fioniwn i<
neat-habited species, the flowers, though so
being as fragrant as could lie desired. 11-
are very recommendable for small gan
suitable for the foremost rank in shrubberis
generally. On rockwork < >nosma taurican
doing as well as could be washed, its long, char
yellow flowers rendering it very’ effective. Bt
the way, how deliciously fragrant the flowers •
this plant are ; it ought to lie good for bee*. It
W'ould probably prove useful for poor m dv
soils, dry banks, and similar .sitot;
Cheiranthiis Marshall i and ochroleua at
apparently best at home on rockw’ork ; they - T
among the brightest of spring flowers. Eqai
ling these for effectiveness, but in a different
way, is tSaponaria ocymoides, a large Bpeciaea
of which, smothered with bloom, is a most cheer
ful object; whilst not inferior, indeed probabbj
more showy, are the dwarf Phlox, of whi i
setacea atropurpurea may lie singled out fdj
unusual beauty. The compact habited prohaj
flowering Cytisus purpureus shows itself c*rf ■a-',
on a rockery, and one scarcely knows whedtff
to admire it most thus placed or in the fora ?i
a standard. It is so distinct and pretty »•:'
merit a place anywhere. A won! of
should be accorded the little Mentha Requini
covering with a dense cushion of foliage a 5,’srr
yard of soil, and, studded with its smallpo^ t
flowers, it presents a very neat and attr- : ' I
aspect.—J. C.

Notes on Ivies. —With so many ■
and unsightly v’alls to cover and beautify,
good deal more should be done with the better
kinds of Ivies. I am not finding fault
our old friend, the rapid-growing Hiberm* r
Ivy. I admit its value everywhere, bat Tirk'y
is charming, and those W’ho can afford to w
should plant the choicer slower-growing k* ■
They are easier to keep in order, aa$ they tr
part a character of refinement to
building that scarcely any tiling else in the«.v
way can do. I have the follow ing kinds gnJ-
ing on the north 6ide of ray house—y I
Hedcra aurea maculata : leaves three-lob-• I
small, but of the brightest gold.
rata elegans : this also is a small variety. ‘-'I
very close and neat, foliage not u- : I
divided, marbled w’ith creamy white. H.p f
mata: leaves small, five-lobed, deeply
rated, bright, golden, but not so bright as the I
named. This is a free grower. H. elegant^"/ r
a very neat variety, w’ith leaves heavily J
gated w’ith white, the new foliage
Faint, but distinct, margin of pink: a 5,0 jr
grow’er, but does its w r ork as it proceeds. J
costs nothing to keep in order. H. kwr-|
Gem : a beautiful dark green variety, vel 7 . 1 ‘
in habit. These are young as yet, but
enough to show’ wdiat they will be by-an<I'.'•J
wdien they cover the wall. I intend to
them distinct, permitting each to fill it®** .yj
space, and no more. H. latifolia maculata
variegated form of the Irish Ivy, and par^
of its robust character, but it is planted 1 J
spot \vhere^t:can g|et on to the chimneysi' "J

will have more w’ork assigned to it. All j J

Idlers are very easily. pro-Jftigated by rac:m *

^WBftN&-&HAMPAIGN

true 21, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

173

■I suppose through lack of sunshine to fully I

drills. Three pounds of guano and two pounds
of salt thoroughly mixed and blended together
will be enough for a rod of land. After the
plants are up, lime is said to be a good dressing
dusted along the rows, and frequently stirring
the surface tends to disturb and keep off the
fly.—E. H.

11610.— Cucumbers bitter.— When the plants have
rich soil and a warm growing temperature the fruit is
seldom bitter. The opposite conditions to the above pro¬
duce bitter fruit.—J. I). E.

mature the bulbs. "The small Blood Red Onion
[ is a red-skinned kind possessing all the excellent
qualities of our best English grown white Spanish
Onions known under the various synonyms of
Banbury, Reading, Nuneham Park, Bedford¬
shire Champion, ^kc., every seedsman having
his pet strain bearing his name, to which is
sometimes added the dubious word “improved,”
a word that, used in this connection, should
more frequently be interpreted in the opposite
direction.

Cultivation. —How apt are we gardeners to
imbibe and retain a given set of notions as to
the cultivation of various crops—fruits and
flowers as well as vegetables. What I mean is

OXIOXS AND THEIR CULTURE.
action. —From long observation and some
c practical experience I incline to the belief
t all culinary roots are more improved by
ction than by hybridisation or cross-breed-
. and if we could but be content with fewer
ieties, and persistently select year after year
most perfect types of each for seed bearing,
should, I think, be nearer attaining perfec-
i than we are ever likely to be so long as we
tinne the search after novelties, which in the
* run benefit no one except the seedsman.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Climbers. —Climbing plants that are grown
in pots and upon trellises should, when they
have set a good crop of flowers, be trained over

to their own legs. That there is a Best soil for
all crops I do not dispute, but, as we cannot
always command this soil, we ought manfully
to face the difficulty by the determination to do
our best with such

The usual

stereotyped phrase as to the best kind of soil
for Onions is that it should be “ a deep loam of
medium texture.” I have never yet Been for¬
tunate enough to have this description of soil to
deal with, but by deep tilth and high manuring

Small Paris silver-skin Onion.

The Queen Onion.

the trellises, but not too closely. Subjects of
the above character that are grown permanently
as roof climbers should not be allowed to go too
long without training, or they become an im¬
penetrable thicket of shoots, and necessitate
much cutting away. Do not allow plants
grown for this purpose to become too much
crowded, or they suffer themselves and injure
everything grown under them. The borders
that usually exist for climbers should be kept
as moist as is consistent with the well-being of
the plants growing in them ; the moisture given
off from them will, in some measure, counteract
the dryness of the atmosphere, and on available
occasions, especially early in the mornings and
in the evenings, water should be applied under
the stages, where such exist, and on the tables,
yet not so plentifully as to occasion the un¬
sightly inconvenience of wet paths to walk
upon. Moisture applied in this way has not

i the exception of Peas, perhaps, Onions
nore improved by selection than any other
ary roots, but then it is well to remember
there are Onions and Onions, and what one
3vea another may disapprove ; or, again,
require Onions for pickling, Onions for
ring, boiling, &c. ; hence it follows that we
t have them of various siy.es and flavours.
•Jheae requirements must be kept in view in
ing our selections, and when once made the
should be the perfection of the favoured
or types by j'ear after year selecting the
perfect for seed bearing. This much as to
lion; now a few words as to some of the
pieties.—A nd first I may say that my
ons as to fewness of these would appear
nsistent if I did not add that the accom-
ying cuts were sent to me from Gardening
with a request to say something about
n. All the varieties are the best of their

Giant Zittau Onion.

I have managed to get good Onions from clay,
peat, light sandy loam, and a soil very little re¬
moved from gravel. Given these two conditions,
i. e ., deep trenching and heavy manuring, com¬
bined with good drainage, no one need be afraid
of a failure as regards growing Onions. The only
difference that I would advise, when having to
deal with a heavy soil rather than a light one,
would be, that just before sowing the former
should be raked over only, but that light soils
be made as firm as can be by treading or rolling,
as this compression in some'measure makes
amends for the lightness of the soil. As to
time and mode of sowing, I prefer the middle of
February for the spring sowing, and early in
August for that of the autumn. Drills from
12 inches to 15 inches apart, according to the
sort, is the best way of sowing, as this plan
admits of easy after culture, such as thinning,
hoeing, and weeding. Farmyard manure is the
best for working in with the soil, and as surface
stimulants during the growth of the crop, soot
and wood-ashes are invaluable. W. W.

Small blood-red Onion.

Pyriform brown Spanish Onion.

pective classes, and beginners in the work
election would do wisely to start opera-
13 with any of the types that are likely
suit their purpose. The small Paris Silver-
n is the Best of all the pickling class,
lures early, and takes up but little space.
* Queen Onion is one of our latest new
n «ties, very early, mild in flavour, and in a
fcral way does not grow too large for pick-
S*. it is also one of the best keepers. The
Zittau is another new kind ; it is very
*Msome, has a deep straw-coloured skin, firm
targe in size, and is also one of the best
i topers. Another is the pyriform brown
This is the large imported Spanish
^°u of the shops ; it is not a desirable kind
w Rowing in this country, oa-H^will not keep

Digitized by CiOOQl

rally has a particularly genial feeding ground
on conservatory climbers. The latter should
have forcible applications of water from the
syringe or from the garden engine occasionally.
Thin shading material (in all cases movable)
should be used not only for the roof, but for
the sides of the house next the sun, if the house
be lofty.

Azaleas should now be making active growth,
which should be encouraged by syringings over¬
head every afternoon, shutting up early, and
keeping the plants thoroughly free from their
two great enemies, thrips and red-spider. Plants
that require rc-potting, if their roots are active,

Turnip fly.— On warm, dry soil there will
be some difficulty in keeping young Turnip
plants free from fly. The best plan is to
pulverise the land well, that is, get it into a
fine tilth. I am assuming that it is in good
heart as regards manure. Sow in drills, having
first soaked them with liquid manure. After
the seeds are sown scatter a little superphos¬
phate in the drills before covering in the seeds.
Amies’ manure is also useful, and a good substi¬
tute for the phosphate. I have also had great
success with guano and salt mixed together. A
comparatively small quantity will be of great
value in hastening the crop when sown in the

rVFfT^ITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

174

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Junk 21 , 1884 .

should be shifted at once, using nothing but
good peat and sufficient sand to keep the soil
sweet. Hard-wooded plants that have been
potted some time, and that arc growing freely,
should now be no longer shaded in bright
weather, but, on the contrary, should be fully
exposed to the sun, throwing water liberally
about under the stages and amongst the pots, so
as to counteract drying influences.

Ferns. —Unless these be free from mealy bug,
scale, and thrips, it is impossible to keep them
in a satisfactory state all through the year;
the two former, from their glutinous excretions,
to which the slightest dust adheres, soon causes
the fronds to look black and dirty ; and the
thrips, though easier to kill, not only disfigure
the fronds, but also cause them to die off pre¬
maturely. The fronds will not be in a state
now to bear a strong enough application of any
insecticide to kill scale and bug, and these
should be sought for and removed by sponging.
Tobacco water is the safest remedy for the
thrips. Any plants in small pots or tubs, par¬
ticularly of the tree species, will be much
assisted by frequent applications of manure
water moderately strong. Where a large collec¬
tion is planted out, it is necessary at tnis time
of the year to see that the strong growers do not
encroach upon the weaker ones ; this can be
effected by cutting the older fronds away freely,
which will at once reduce the size of those that
are to come.

Flower Garden.

Bedding Plants.— Trailing plants will now
need frequently regulating and pegging down
evenly over the surface until the bed is covered,
after which they look best undisturbed. Vases
and baskets in which climbing or trailing plants
form an important element need great care in
starting them properly at first. Such plants as
the trailing Ivy-leaf section of Pelargoniums, in
addition to being pegged down to the edge of
the vase, should have a wire run round just
below the edge, to which all pendulous shoots
should be securely tied, or the continual chafing
by wind will, as a rule, soon either cut them
off or greatly injure them.

Staking Plants.— Late rows of Sweet Peas
must be staked, and any Dahlias, Hollyhocks,
or Delphiniums that are not yet securely tied
must be attended to without delay, as sudden
gusts of wind that precede thunder showers at
this season of the year are very destructive in
the flower garden ; and, above ail, any plant
that needs support should have all staking and
tying or training done as early as possible, so as
to outgrow all signs of artificial support long
before the blooming season has arrived. The
practice of tying Dahlias to one or two single
sticks with all the shoots drawn together in the
shape of a broom should never be followed ; it
gives them a most unnatural and unsightly appear¬
ance, and seriously injures them through the non¬
admission of light and air to the foliage; use from
three to six sticks so as to tie the shoots out. These
being gross-feeding plants, with a great portion
of their roots lying in a horizontal position just
under the surface of the soil, 2 inches of rotten
manure should be applied.

Gladioli. —If hot dry weather should set in
immediately, mulch the beds with rotten
manure, and apply water freely if thought need¬
ful. It is also necessary to place sticks to
the plants in the earliest stages of the spikes,
as the broad leaves are much acted upon by
gales of wind, and if the roots gets loosened the
plants soon fall over.

Tulips. —The roots of these ought to be lifted
at once and stored in a dry place until planting
time. We simply lift the roots and clean them,
placing each variety in a flower pot, which is
stored in a dry loft, and thus managed they keep
in good condition until planting time.

Primroses and Daisies. —Roots of these
that have been temporarily laid in should now
be divided and planted in nursery beds, keeping
them moist and shaded until they have become
well-rooted again. The double Primroses are
especially deserving of increased cultivation, and
if shaded borders are not available for them,
light evergreen branches make an excellent
shade, and, in addition to keeping them moist
at the root, a good sharp syringing occasionally!
to prevent red spider, will greatly help them.

Pinks.— This is now the best time to put in
(cuttings) pipings.^ The smallest growths strike

root most freely ; and if the weather is dull and
showery at the time when they are taken off,
they may be put in a shady position quite in the
open ground. It is rather more difficult to pro¬
pagate the Pink in the south than in the north,
and in dry, Sunny weather it is best to place the
pipings in boxes, and to strike them on a very
mu id hotbed. They must be shaded from the sun
until roots are forme'd.

Pansies. —It is a good plan to put in some
cuttings now to form a late autumn bed. If it
is intended to have good flowers for an exhibi¬
tion or other purpose on a given date, pinch off
all the flowers that are open or nearly so—
indeed, even buds that are showing colour —
about a fortnight before the date on which they
are required. No flower degenerates more
rapidly than Pansies, and the only way to main¬
tain them in good condition is to occasionally
denude them of flowers and apply surface-dres¬
sing to the beds.

Roses. —All old blossoms should be regularly
removed, also suckers and weeds; keep them
moist at the root, but syringing overhead must
be discontinued until the blooming season is
over. Strong growing climbing Roses will need
tying and training, and the sooner the shoots
are thinned out after flowering the greater
chance is there for the young wood to get well
ripened, and in such sorts as the Banksian, the
flower best trained on the extension system,
thinning is of the utmost importance.

Digitized by XjO

nallesjt gro

gTe

Fruit.

Vines. —When all Grape-thinning has been
done the main requirement will bo to keep
the lateral growths well stopped back, in order
to prevent overcrowding. Should there be no
danger of this through the Vines being at long
distances apart, then allow the laterals to grow
till such danger appears. Inside borders of V ines
swelling their fruit will take any amount of
manure water, and, as soon as applied, the
borders should be mulched with 2 inches or 3
inches of fresh stable litter, in order to retain
the moisture and supply the atmosphere with
ammonia. More than this quantity would prove
too powerful and injure the foliage. Ventilate
freely in the early part of the day and shut up
early in the afternoon, making free use of water
to engender atmospheric humidity ; give a little
air at 7 p.m., and leave it on all night. Grapes
that are ripe or ripening cannot have too much
air, unless the wind prove exceptionally harsh,
which is rarely the case at this time of the year.
Usually all atmospheric moisture is recommended
to be withdrawn when colouring begins, but we
have come to regard a moderate amount as bene¬
ficial, inasmuch as it prevents an undue develop¬
ment of red spider should that pest have gained
a footing. W here plants are grown with late
Vines overhead the plants should be placed in
frames or out-of-doors for some time to come, as
unless the Vines are pushed on by closing the
house early in the afternoons, the crop will not
ripen before the autumn is too far advanced ; and
the night temperature, consequent upon this shut¬
ting-in of sun-heat, with the accompanying moist
condition of the atmosphere necessary to exist
with it, would be very injurious to the plants,
unless in the case bf late-flowered Camellias and
Azaleas that have not yet completed their
growth, which will be exactly suited by it; but
where Azaleas are grown under Vines they
should be carefully examined every fortnight or
three weeks to see that they are clear from
thrips, on the appearance of which the plants
should be immediately dipped in or syringed
with Tobacco water. Those who have not had
much experience in Grape-growing should look
over the leaves of their Vines once a week to
see that they are free from red spider ; its pre¬
sence is easily detected by a little discolouration
in the leaves, as it very soon gives them a
slight browm tinge, observable when looking
through them with the light above ; it most
usually makes its appearance about the base of
tlie Vines, and when confined to comparatively
few leaves it may be kept from spreading by
the careful use of a soft sponge and clean water
applied to both the under and upper surface of
the leaves. Nothing should be left undone to
keep the foliage free from it, as where it once
obtains any ascendancy it is impossible to
colour Grapes properly ; although so diminutive,
it punctures and sucks the sap from the leaves
to an extent that quickly renders them in¬
capable of performing their allotted functions,

l

and the mischief does not end with the def* fra
of the fruit of the present season, but the Yiafj
are rendered weaker for the future.

Peaches and Nectarises.— Go over th»
out-of-doors, and if the fruit is still too thick
remove more, as also superfluous shoots, but oa
no account take away too much leaf, for in th»
season this is worse in its effects upon the trea
than the opposite extreme of neglecting to dis¬
bud them. Continue to use the garden engine
or syringe two or three times a week, wet:ir“
the under sides of the leaves. If this is attend
to little injury will be done by thrips and i
spider, the worst enemies these fruits are adec
by, and which not only materially injure
present crop, but weaken the trees, thereby
seriously affecting them in after years. That
fruits will be benefited by mulching the groaai
with half rotten manure. This is easily applid
where the borders are not cropped with any¬
thing over the roots.

Pears on walls, espaliers, and trained prn
mids w'ill in most places now be in a condito.
to have their summer growth removed. Then
are two methods of carrying out this nectar
operation, one of which used to be mucha*»
common than it is at the present time. Ib
consists of breaking the shoots about ft>
thirds through at 4 inches or 5 inches the
the base from whence they spring, leaving tha
hanging with the remaining portion of the
and bark for a few weeks, removing tfca
afterwards ; this has the effect of checti:
further growth in the shoots, and directi &
energies of the trees to the formation aci de¬
velopment of the fruit-buds. The shoots Mt a
this maimer operated upon a little before tie
growth is complete ; it entails more Uboar. IrJ
in some cases, with vigorous trees, it it
calculated to induce a fruitful condition lhan
the more ordinary practice of alloiisu! the
shoots to remain untouched until their pro j
is complete, when they are cut off altogb*
at about 1 inch above the base; bat vtaj
this course is followed, on no accounts. J
they be taken off till their growth u
completed, which is easily discernible by a
terminal leaf at the point of the shoot
attained something approaching its rail
and exhibiting a bud at the base. If the M
be taken off whilst the points are sort
a growing state, some of the buds below I
should ultimately produce fruit) will at
break into growth, a circumstance by all wa
to be avoided. Apples that are
grown bush fashion, and are required
kept within certain limits as to size,
have their summer growth similarly deal
but in all cases the operator ought to w
mind that with trees whose heads are ,
fined within certain limits, if the root po *
the individual tree be in excess of
velopment, nothing which can be done )
pruning will bring them into a fruitfu s >
generally the reverse.

Bush Fruits.—K eep the hoe at workarn^ 1
bush fruits, so as to destroy weed*.
appear. It sometimes happens that w
negligence in this respect, under the upp
that the bushes do not suffer from the p ^
ofiweeds as culinary vegetable crops d°-‘
as intermediate effects go this may ^
but, wherever they are allowed to gro> ^
exhaust the soil much more than orum ) , .
vated plants do ; and to let any part oU . ^ J
become foul is simply a direct wa* ^
manure used, of which even bush ,
in need, although not to the same
vegetables. It is well to observe
portion of the garden, however srnal. r j
to become a nursery for weeds,
be scattered by the winds in all uir ^

’ ’e afterward*

will cause endless trouble alterwaj^ ^
the pleasure derived from the ap]*’ ^can-
of an orderly, well-kept garden, w
sideration, and all the care that can
upon it.

Vegetables.

Still continue to ply the hoe ' vben up,
be used amongst all growing cr0 ^_.
by way of support to the stems, st' *[},, w*l

kinds of Cauliflowers, Brussels j,jy
Kales ; but prior to doing this tb0 fr»ns.
them with manure water. Pea 8 ’ n , a y with
Scarlet Runners, and late P otat ^ eftr off tf*
advantage be similarly treated. .
hausted crops of Spinaph, Pea 8 ) ft

JRBANA-CHAMPAIGN !

June 21, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

175

k over the ground, and re-crop with Cole-
rts and Cauliflowers for autumn use, or
e with winter Greens ; of the latter, amongst

> hardiest aud most profitable—quantity and
dity combined—are Brussels Sprouts, Cot¬
ters 5 Kale, Curled Scotch Kale, and Savoys,
iter the plants till established in their new
fitions, and in the case of any planted between

> lines of Potatoes occasionally go over the
>ts, in order to lay together the tops, to pre-
at an attenuated growth being caused by the
uling of the haulm.

Celery, Leeks, Tomatoes, ridge Cucumbers,
d Vegetable Marrows ought to be planted out
tliout further delay. All these require rich
id and liberal cultural aid, such as watering,
il stirring, &c., to keep them in free unchecked
owth, that shall in the end prove satisfactory,
ly seedlings yet unthinned should be don6 at
e hrst opportunity. Salsafy, Scorzonera,
licory, and Dandelion now require this. Six
dies by 12 inches is the allowance of space
lieh we give to each plant ; in poor soils 4
•hes are sufficient. Sow thinly Endive and
ttuoes where the plants are to mature, thin-
!g out to 9 inches apart as soon as the plants
be handled. Turnips required for early
umn use should now be sown. At this
son partial shade is advantageous to this
p : on a north or east border the fly rarely
veks them, and the bulbs are more tender
1 succulent than when grown in the full sun-
ae.

Udishes, too, need a cool shady spot in sum-

• to ensure mild produce. Sow small quan¬
ts fortnightly on a north aspect, and water
•ly in ary weather. Discontinue cutting
oragus, and give the beds a dressing of guano
salt, and a deep stirring over either by
low forking or hoeing. Keep Seakale plants
ingle crowns by rubbing off all shoots except

strongest one ; also keep them free from
i-stems, and in vigorous growth by the same
Ament in reference to the land as advised for
,4Lra gus* What may be termed annual herbs,
li as Basil, Knotted and Sweet Marjoram,

, that were sown in boxes, ought now to be
tsplanted to the open ground. Cut down old
its of Sage and Thyme, or else replace them
making new plantations with the seedlings
» were sown under handlights in April.
iquiD Manure.— It sometimes happens that
he time of preparing the ground there may
o been a scarcity of manure, of which some
P 3 luve not received a sufficient quantity,
lere this has been the case, make up the defi-
ccyby the timely application of liquid manure.

U should take place at the middle stages of
•wth, after the plants have taken a fair hold
the soil and are growing away freely, and
eu ntrength will be imparted at the time it is
required. It is, however, necessary to be
atiouB in the use of manure water ; it must
t be applied too strong, for plants, unlike
imals, have not the power of rejecting the food
at is given them, which in a liquid state goes
rect to the roots, and is of necessity absorbed
them, even if their destruction be the result,
nttnureofasolid character—such, for instance,
that of fowls in a crude state, or guano that
iumpy and insufficiently broken—be dug into

* soil, the case is somewhat different; the roots
U not enter it, but will run in other directions
escape, as it w’ere, the dangerous diet set be-
^ ™ eni - A little reflection upon the nature
the particular plant to which manure water is

a Pplied will, in a great measure, be a safer
ll . ( e 35 k> the strength of the solution it is able
As a rule, rampant-growing subjects
stand a much stronger mixture than weak
owers—Rhubarb, for instance, being benefited
J t at a strength that would injure Peas.

Beans may receive it stronger than the
iker growing dwarf varieties; but in all
it is better to be on the safe side, and
her make the solution too weak than too
rang.

Lychnis Viscaria splendens fl.-pl.—
r* double-flowered Lychnis is one of the best
lU r? in flower at the present time. The colour,

> ach rosy purple, is very striking, rendering
j hy far the best of all the hardy perennial
finises. It grows from 1 foot to 1 J feet high,

P^uces its rosette-like blossoms thickly on
j*ect branching stems. A double variety of
^ ( L°ica is also finely in bloom in gardens

Digitized by

Gck igle

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 162. J

Walnuts and Chesnuts.

Apart from the value of their fruit, which, in
a good season, is considerable, both of these
trees produce handsome effect in the home
landscape and grow into valuable timber. No
greater inducements can be offered to a planter
than are here set forth, and I am rather surprised
they arc not more planted.

Walnuts

suffer much from late frosts, and often the crop
is. ruined from this cause, especially in low-
lying situations; hence, when grown chiefly for
their fruit, rather an elevated, though, at the
same time, a somewhat sheltered site should be
chosen.

Propagation.

W alnuts are generally raised from seeds,
though, like most other fruits, the seedlings
vary in character a little, and, in making a
plantation for fruit bearing, it is better to plant
about^ 10 feet or 12 feet apart, and when they
come into bearing cut out tne inferior varieties;
this will give those left ample space and retain
the best nut-bearing trees. The nuts for
raising young trees may be planted any time
between their full maturity and the end of
February. Plant in drills 18 inches apart
and 3 inches in depth. If the mice are
troublesome lay slates or tiles or boards
along the rows, or cover the surface over the
nuts with sifted coal ashes. If the young
plants make good progress the strongest may be
transplanted at the end of the first year, but
they will take no harm if they stand two years.
When set out in nursery rows they should have
plenty of space, the rows to be not less than
3 feet apart, and 18 inches apart in the rows,
in order to obtain handsome, well-balanced
plants.

Trainino and Pruning.

The young trees should be trained up with a
single stem, 8 or more feet high, removing all
side branches as they appear. As a rule, the
more all fruit-bearing trees are lifted and trans¬
planted in their youth the better it will be for
them, therefore young Walnut trees should not
stand more than two years without being lifted,
till they are finally planted, and even then, if
we think they are not bearing early enough, we
can always hurry them on by lifting ; or, if the
trees are too large for that, digging a deep
trench round, and lifting up the roots, wifi
bring them into bearing.

All pruning should bo carefully done, the
branches (which should as far as possible be
taken off when young) should be cut close to
the main stem, and the wound made smooth,
and if dressed with Stockholm tar the air will
be kept out, and the formation of bark over its
surface be facilitated.

If Walnut trees are grown together in a
plantation, or to form an avenue, they may
stand from 45 to 50 feet apart. Where only a
tree or two are planted, they may occupy a
prominent position, from which a pleasant view
can be obtained, and where in after years,
when the tree affords shade, a scat may be
placed in summer. There is something about
the atmosphere surrounding a Walnut tree
which insects, especially gnats and flies, do
not like, and it is well to find a quiet situation
on a summer’s evening, to enjoy a book or to
think, unmolested by the pests of the insect
world.

Gathering the Nuts.

Those required for pickling should be gathered
before the shell has begun to form. This will
generally be about the middle or end of July in
most places, but the remainder of the crop
should be left on the trees till they are ripe
and begin to drop of their own accord, and
they should then be dashed off, dried in
an open airy place for a few days, anil
packed in jars or casks in dry sand. The sand
must be really dry, or the nuts will go mouldy.
In packing, place the nuts in layers, with dry
Band in between. If too much sand is used the
kernels of the nuts may shrivel. In case they
do shrivel steep them in milk, to which a little
water has been added, for seven or eight hours.
This will restore them to good condition again.
This, of course, should be done just before they

are required for use. Everybody, I suppose, is
familiar with the old couplet—

“ A woman, a dog, and a walnut tree,

The more they are heat, the better they’!! be,"

and many people have an idea that, as regards
the Walnut tree, there is some truth m it.
Hence they say if we want plenty of nuts, dash
the trees.

The Sweet, or Spanish Chesnut.

Few trees are superior to this for nobility of
aspect. And yet, strange to say, it is seldom
planted in the grounds of the villa garden.
This is, I think, a great loss. It has grand
foliage, a stately habit of growth, and when in
flower or fruit possesses a distinct character,
unlike all other trees. And there is a nobility
in its appearance even, when leafless in winter,
which is not surpassed by any other deciduous
tree. I do not say much about its fruit, for,
except in favoured situations, the crop cannot be
relied onto ripen. Yeti can remember good crops
of Chesnuts being gathered in the midland
counties not so many years ago, and probably
will be again when the long, warm summers
come back to us. A grove or an avenue of
Chesnuts will be fitting tree furniture for any
situation where there is scope. There is no
difficulty in their propagation ; they are reared
from seeds. The best time to sow the nuts is
shortly after Christmas, when the weather is
suitable and the soil in good working condition.
Sow in drills 18 inches apart, and cover them
about 2 inches deep. At the end of the second
year transplant into nursery rows 2 feet apart,
and 6 inches from plant to plant. In this
position they may remain two years, receiving
the necessary training and priming to secure
straight stems and cvcnly-lialanced growth;
when strong enough, plant out finally. To obtain
a long, straight shoot, 6 or 7 feet high, in one
season, cut down the plants to two eyes. The
strongest will break away and take the lead,
and make a long, straight main trunk, which
will add a value to the tree in after years.

E. Hobday.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

A STAFFORDSHIRE ROCK GARDEN.
Staffordshire, by those not acquainted with
the county, is not unseldom supposed to be tree¬
less, barren of vegetation, begrimed with smoke,
and—while rich in minerals and pottery works
—certainly destitute of picturesque beauty.
However truly this may describe some parts of
the county, it cannot be said to apply to the
Valley of the Trent, which may well claim to
be as beautiful and varied as a fine river, with
overhanging woods, well-kept parks, and rocky
moorland, can make it; and if the tall chimney
and the shaft of a coal mine does appear, here
and there, to remind us of the work going on
under ground, they are neither so frequent nor
so obtrusive as to mar the scenery. And in
that neighbourhood, which we are apt to set
down, indiscriminately, as the “Black Country,”
there is excellent gardening to be found, for
Nature there is more ready to lend herself
to art than we may think. It was the good
fortune of the writer to spend a few hours, more
than once, lately in a beautiful garden, which
has long had its place in the annals of gardening,
for more reasons than one. Year by year, magni¬
ficent specimens of hard-wooded greenhouse
plants, now so much less grown than formerly,
come from thence to the great spring shows in
London and elsewhere, where they invariably
secure the best prizes ; while the garden itself,
part of which was once a quarry of red sand¬
stone, is singularly interesting, from its extreme
unlikeness to most other gardens. The name
of the late Mrs. Spodc, of Hawkesyard Park—
the mother of the present proprietor, J. Spode,
Esq.—is not unfamiliar to those who are in the
habit of looking back to the plant portraits of
half a century ago, as having sent this or that
rare flower from this richly-stored garden to
Kew and elsewhere. And with this lady, as I
believe, originated the plan which, fifty yeans
since, turned the quarry into a Rock garden,
such as it remains to the present time. The
space devoted to the garden is altogether about
three acres, but from the diversity of its arrange¬
ment, it seems to cover a much greater extent
of ground. Rocky pathways lead from a fine
stretch of undulating lawn—sloping away from

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS A1
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

176

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

the house, and planted with, here and there,
well-grown specimen Conifers, and fringed with
belts of Rhododendron and Azalea—to the
rocky dene which was once the quarry.

It was mid-April at the time of my visit, and
vegetation was considerably retarded by the
nipping east winds then prevailing ; but that
garden must always be fair, for its rocky ter¬
races are clothed with Evergreen trailing shrubs,
which look well at all seasons, if not always at
their best. The first glance at this part of the
garden showed the excellent use which had been
made of the winter-flowering Heath (Erica
herbacea), which drooped in masses over the
face of the rock, giving a flush of rosy colour at
a season when every bit of flower colouring is
precious. Other kinds of hardy dwarf Heaths
had also been planted in quantity, which, each
in its season, must add a wonderful charm to
the rocky ledges on which they grow. In the
same way, Cotoneaster microphylla and fine¬
leaved Ivies, Sun Roses and the silvery-leaved
Cera3tium tomentosum, and many other rock
plants of vigorous growth are used—not a tuft
or two, dotted here and there, but in masses—
with the best effect, and everywhere strong
clumps of Ferns were pushing up their brown
curled fronds, giving promise of beauty yet to
unfold. A large octagonal glasshouse occupies
a position in or near this part of the garden, in
which are grown Camellias and Azaleas, but in
which the stages are raised on rock walls, the
insterstices of which are filled chiefly with wild
plants, which grow with the greatest luxuri¬
ance under the shelter of the glass. The pale
green trefoils of the wood sorrel mingle with
the bronze-red foliage of wild pink Geranium,
and the delicate lavender of Dog Violets, as
large and pure as the favourite old Parma
Violets, so rare to meet with nowadays. These,
with a running accompaniment of Lycopodium,
Campanulas, and small Ferns, made a charming
finish on each side to the broad pathway. With
such a good beginning, it seems not improbable
that a large, airy house of this kind may be con¬
verted before long into an alpine garden under
glass, where the [finer and more tender species,
which require protection from damp, might
be cultivated in the greatest perfection.
For everywhere about the garden there are
evidences of a growing love for good perennial
plants, and also of excellent taste in so placing
them, that whether on the rock or in the
borders, wherever such are employed, they are
planted in masses or broad clumps large enough
to show their true character. Thus it is plea¬
sant to come unexpectedly upon a colony of the
Apennine Anemone, or early Forget-me-Not,
or Oak Fern, nestling in nooks partially shaded
by overhanging shrubs, and looking so perfectly
at home that it may well be forgotten that they
are not native to the spot. Doubtless each year
will add to such colonies of interesting alpine
plants, so charming when in the full beauty of
their bloom, and yet leaving no unsightly gap
when at rest, simply because they do not make
part of any set bed or bonier.

A chance visitor can form but little idea of
the real plan of the garden, for the bewildering
paths tempt in every direction, now leading to
a sequestered group of beds, and again crossing,
perhaps by a rustic bridge, a miniature valley,
through which runs a fern-bordered stream.
Following one such path, I found myself in a
small garden, planted with a succession of
spring bulbs, where choice Hyacinths and
masses of blue Scillas were giving place to
chequered Fritillarias, purple and cream-
coloured, and white Tulips. Elsewhere great
clumps of Crocuses and dog’s tooth Violets
were only lately past their beauty. The
luxuriant growth of foliage in these
Erythroniums—I w’as too late to see them in
flower—w’as very remarkable in all the Staf¬
fordshire gardens. Is it due to an accident of
soil, or do they possess there a finer variety
than we have in the south ?

One of the great attractions of Hawkesyard is
a large, cool fernery under glass, where fine
specimens of tree Ferns and many kinds of
Adiantum, Pteris, and Lomaria, &c., grow in
wild profusion. In the centre, a mass of rock is
crowned by a gigantic growth, sixteen years old,
of Woodwardia radicans, drooping over a clear
pool of water at its base, w’hich has rooted itself
in all directions—one enormous frond having in
this way formed a natural arch over the path¬
way, large enough for adults to pass under with¬

out stooping. The w alls of this fernery were all these biennials can be raised
lined in Dart w’ith the peat of the country, in which may be purchased cheaply, we css
which still grow r s the native Whortleberry and but marvel that they are so little groru.
other wild plants, mingling with the Lycopods Of this dwarf strain of Snapdragons the an
and Ferns. It is this blending of nature w’ith art nexed illustration is a good example of the v»v
throughout that gives its distinctive character to in which they grow and flower. Exhibitors j:
this charming garden. The temperature of the Antirrhinums in spikes may not care for these
fernery stood at 45 degs. dwarf forms, as their spikes of bloom are ao;

A Dractical lesson taught in one of the houses, sufficiently large for their purpose. But for put
w’hich at the time w’as devoted chiefly to fine culture, and it is as pot plants that for eihi-
young Fuchsias in preparation for the conserva- bition purposes Snapdragons should be eu
tory later on in the season, might be W’ell laid couraged, these dwarf kinds are admiral*
to heart by amateurs who like to do their own suited. From 8 inches to 12 inches in heigh
gardening. The plants were some 3 feet in carrying when at their best a dense head
height, w’ith straight clean stems, w'ell covered bloom in such admirable variety, they wotVi.
to the rim of the pots with fine healthy foliage. show r n in dozens or less, make a capital elite.
These had all come out of the cutting pan and several collections would form a charms,
about three months before I saw them, and had feature in any show. Seed may be sown alms
received a liberal shift on, as soon as the roo s any time of the year, but much must depe&?
reached the side of their pots. To show the upon the particular time at which the plants
excellent result of this treatment by comparison, desired to be at their best. A little seed wn
Mr. Chapman took down from a back shelf a early in March in a pan and placed in wire:;
small Fuchsia in a 2-inch pot, perfectly healthy, will give an ample supply of plants to flowers
but only a few inches high, and in no way re- midsummer, and a couple of later sowings «2
markable, yet he assured us that this was one keep the supply up to the winter, so that ;t*
of the very same batch of cuttings, the only time of holding any show might easily in
difference being that it had received but one arranged for, and the surplus plants put out ate
shift from the cutting pot while the others had beds or borders will prove serviceable far
been given three or four. Anj r one not aw are of garden decoration. It is better to sow seed
this fact can try the experiment for himself, and each year, as it is found that in the second fx
in so doing w ill gain valuable knowledge. the plants get taller if they stand the witte.

K. L. D. As they come so true from seed, several tea
may be filled with masses in colours, and tha
DWARF ANTIRRHINUMS. produce a cheap and an effective display.

This remarkable dw’arf strain of the Snap- _ ^ ^

DWARF ANTIRRHINUMS. produce a cheap and an effective display.

This remarkable dwarf strain of the Snap- _ ^ ^

dragon, which originated on the Continent, and . UT . rnv . VTrk T n Tr£

for which we are specially indebted to Messrs. MARTAGOIS AND OTHER LILLL.

Vilmorin, of Paris, has by no means become so The accompanying illustration represents tra i

distinct varieties of Lilium Martagon. de
P j*' a common Turk’s-cap Lily, so named by Pirkwm

V iffr 1. > on account of the peculiar way in whidi

A jmfEM the petals recurve. The Turk’s-cip term is

frequently applied to all the Lilies in wbkbtbt
i j r^T petals reflex ; thus w’e have the Canadian Turks-

? /*-' cap, the scarlet Turk’s-cap, and several othen

but which do not belong strictly to the Martini
> if// group. In some cases they are even c&L *

Martagons, but in speaking of the Manaya
group proper I shall confine myself exclushti
to the varieties of the common Mariw*
which is one of the oldest Lilies in cultiratk
The two varieties figured are the best ud, 1
may say, two of the most distinct of the gen*
It is a curious fact that the white Martagi*
“w’hich in the time of Parkinson (1650) wajt
common variety,” should have become sosara,
aswe usually find that plants or bulbs an?pre^
plentiful which can take care of themselves, ari
on the contrary, those that are particular»

9 soil or situation usually succumb soonercrher.

^ Philip Miller, a century later than ftdhw. I

, describes a number of varieties of Martif 1 * i

c ^ - C? Lilies, and among them a double whited

^ ^ double purple. The latter is still in cttlh^ -

„ . a , ...... . „ . but the former I have never seen. L Mute

D«r( snapdragon (Antirrhinum maju. var. punnlum). u common throughout the oentre <rf &W-

and is exceedingly variable, varying ink p?

well known or widely grown as might have been w hite to deep purple, but not so dirk ■*
expected. The dwarf forms belonging to this Dalmatian form, which vanes from di:>
strain are exceedingly beautiful, not onlv because maroon to almost block. As a mb ter*
they are dw’arf, but because they all possess all more or less spotted, the’ spoH t
such charming variety in the way of colours and from minute specks up to large, v irreguh
markings. Tne Continental grow’ers have, by blotches, some of which have a peculiar app**-’
dint of patient selection, succeeded in getting ance. I have seen a few varieties without uj
distinct colours ; so that of the mauve spots. I should consider this Lily as one of ti*

type and of the Tom Thumb type, most variable, as it would be an easy matter *
which is even dwarfer, there are some make a collection of fifty varieties of it more cf (

tw r enty or more distinct forms. Some are less distinct; for general cultivation, hover?'
sold under name, some according to colour, but the black, white, purple, and double purple^
the most striking are those in w’hich some two or the best. All the varieties will grow 111 j:
three colours are found in combination, either in good sandy loam, moderately moist, not * fi ‘
the form of stripes, blotches, or clearly defined and increase very freely by division of the re¬
margins. It is a curious fact that the tall forms, which ought to be done every three ft- ' irj:
though rich in variety of colours, yet lack many years, to keep the bulbs healthy arulvitf 31 ^
of the curious hues found in the dwarf section : In some soils I have know-n them to •'*
hence if a bed be planted with the tall kinds, many years, and never disturbed ; but 1 believe J^
and margined w-ith dw’arf ones, a very charming all Lilies should be moved occasionally-V
effect is the result. It is to be regretted that in vided it is done at the proper time—y^’j.
all gardens of any great size there is not set as soon as the stems begin to die off. t”®) |.

M:--

Dwarf Snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus var. pumilum).

Digitized b,

Gougle

apart a few beds in some appropriate place, in should be shifted and planted at once, divwuij ^
which such good biennials as Snapdragons, the large roots, taking off all the small bull* 4
Pentstemons, Sweet Williams, &c., can be loose scales, and replanting the large bul» m
grown, as whilst in bloom, and the season is a clumps, and the small ones in a bed by tw®’ ^
long one, they make beautiful masses of flowers, selves until they are large enough to dower. ?j ^
They also furnish an ample supply of cut bloom, doing this you keep your bulbs health? and
and, not least, they present variety in form crease your stock, and, os they take but lj u ,
and colour in garden plants that is singularly room, space could easily be found for ;
acceptable. When, further, it is known that between shrubs, &c.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT 1

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN i

June 21, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

177

L. dalmaticum, herewith figured, differs
Dm the common Martagon Lily principally in
lour and growth. When established it grows
Dm 5 feet to 6 feet high, with about thirty to
ty flowers on a stem, and varied slightly in
ade, but the lightest in colour is much darker
an the darkest form of the ordinary Martagon.
lere are numbers of other beautiful Lilies
aptcd for loamy soil, having a vigorous con-
itution, and easily grown in any ordinary
ill-drained border, and I will briefly enume-
te a few of the most distinct, and such kinds

When planted among shrubs you get these con¬
ditions, although in a different way, the roots
of the shrubs absorbing what the Lilies do not
want, and the foliage affording protection to the
young growth in spring and partial shade in
summer. To grow Lilies successfully the most
important point is to plant early in autumn ;
whereas most persons plant in late autumn and
spring, and then complain if they are not
successful. I contend that most Lilies can be
grown in any ordinary border without any
elaborate preparation or expense, provided that

L. candidum is too well known to need
mention ; one of the oldest, but still one of the
best. The double variety is very effective in
hot situations, flowers well with me in hot
summers, and appears to want more heat than
other varieties of this class. The variegated
form is also very pretty during the autumn and
spring, the leaves having a broad, heavy band of
yellow on the edge.

L. carniolicum, though not so bright as
some, is still worth growing, as it flowers very
early.

Varieties of Martagon Lilies.

fn be grown with a certainty of success in
ich, friable loam, in any well-drained situa-
c. provided they are planted early and are in
*1 condition at the time of planting. When
4 soil is stiff and heavy, leaf-mould, road
or Cocoa-nut fibre should be added
Jiake it light and open. The bulbs of
all Lilies suffer from excessive mois-
i:p u«d when the soil is wet and heavy
46 h ®ds should be raised, so that the bulbs
above the ordinary level of the ground,
Q** to be drier than when planted on the level;
u a very important point in Lily culture.

Digitized! by

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they are planted at the right time and a judicious
selection made.

L. bulbiferum. — A very free-flowering
species, and one rarely met with. The flowers,
which are not so large as- in the varieties of
davuricum, are of a crimson colour, shading to
orange, and with numerous bulblets in the axils
of the leaves.

L. Browni. — One of the most chaste of all
known Lilies ; flowers 8 inches or 10 inches
long, interior pure white, exterior browmish
purple. This grows freely in light, sandy loam,
out must be in a well-drained position.

L. giganteum, a majestic species, growing in
suitable positions 8 ft. to 10 ft. high, has large
leaves and long trumpet-shaped flowers, white
inside, and striped with purple on the outside.
This species must be planted early in the
autunfti, protected the first season from the
frost, and then left to take care of itself. Select
a dry position, and one where the young foliage
will get protected from the spring frosts.

L. chalcedonicum, commonly called the
scarlet Turk’s-cap, is a grand species. The
colour is marvellous, of tne most intense fiery
scarlet; there are several varieties of this in

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Gardening illustrated

cultivation, some flowering earlier, some
spotted, while others have no spots, but all are
beautiful and well worth cultivating, even
though the garden is only a few feet square ;
this kind is particularly fond of a well drained
position.

L. croceum, the old orange Lily, is as well
known as candidum, and quite as effective,
flowers early, very free blooming, and makes a
garden look gay, even if there is nothing else
in it.

L. davuricum (umbellatum and spcctabile of
same.)—There are five or six good varieties of
this and all worth growing ; they are dwarf,
take up but little room, produce an enormous
quantity of bloom, very bright colours, ranging
through the various shades of scarlet, crimson,
orange, &c., and increase very rapidly. Good
clumps of these dotted about are very effective
for about a month. They like a sandy loam well
drained.

L. longiflorum and all its varieties must not
be omitted, although there is more difficulty
with these than with any previously mentioned,
but the difficulty is not so much with soil as
with climate. They make a very precocious
growth, which, if injured by frost, gets virtu¬
ally spoiled for that season. The only way to
get over this difficulty is to lift the bulbs in the
autumn ; keep them comparatively dry in silver
sand, dry peat, or any other material which
will keep the bulb from shrivelling, yet must
not contain sufficient moisture to make it start,
which it will do if not looked after. Plant the
bulbs in January or February, and you will
flower them easily and increase your stock. This
is the only Lily that I know of that should be
treated in this way.

L. MONADELPHUM VAR. SZOVTTZIANUM (col-
chicum).—A species of great beauty, large and
fragrant, early blooming, very variable in colour,
from primrose to golden yeilow, and one of the
easiest to grow. Select six of the finest Lilies,
and this must be one.

L. PARDALINUM, although usually considered
a peat Lily, can lie grown in light, loamy soil,
but in a damp, shady position. This should
be planted among shrubs, as it usually grows
7 feet to 8 feet high.

L. pomponium verum. —In colour rivalling
chalcedonicum, flowering about three weeks
earlier ; very graceful, slender habit, foliage
dark olive-green, reaching to the ground, and
bearing from twelve to eighteen flowers on a
stem. One of the best and most effective of Lilies.

L. pyrenaicu M. —A small early-flowering
species ; flowers yellow, freely spotted ; also a
red variety, but neither can be very strongly
recommended for their l>cauty.

L. specjosum (lancifolium).—This is a large
group, comprising about twenty varieties, all
more or less distinct, and all flowering in the
autumn, while all previously mentioned are
summer flowering. I cannot attempt to describe
them, but would refer anyone interested in
autumn-flowering Lilies to peruse a catalogue of
any good grower of this class of plants. If I
were to make a selection of, say, six of the best,
I would select Kratzeri, punctatum, Melpomene,
multiflorum, rubrum verum, or purpureum.
There is no difficulty whatever with this group.
All are easily grown. They like a good, rich,
sandy loam, plenty of room, and to be divided
every three or four years.

L. testaceum (excelsum or Isabellinum).—A
stately plant, in general appearance claiming a
close relationship with L. candidum, but having
charming apricot-coloured blossoms. This will

{ ;row 6 feet high, and prefers a rich, sandy
oam, and moderately dry.

L. tigrinum and its varieties are autumn
bloomers, stately in habit, brilliant in colour,
very profuse blooming, well fitted for termi¬
nating the procession of this gorgeous and
lovely group. The best are splendens, jucundum,
plenum tigrinum, or japonicum.

There are others I might enumerate in this
list, but there are now quite sufficient for
anyone to select from. They are all hardy,
easily grown and increased, and very beautiful
when in bloom, and, with a little care in
planting, selecting suitable positions, &c., there
is no reason why every garden should not
possess a few of this family. P.

The Garden.— Gate ml Index to the first,
twenty vols, now ready, strovyly hound, price

12 f-* I

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ARRANGEMENT OF BEDDING l’LANTS.
There always will be people who cling to the
things they are used to, and whom it is difficult
to persuade to make a change of any kind. One
of the first necessities of hardy plant gardening
is that everything shall be done in good time.
Plants will not flower well in spring, summer,
and autumn unless in their places early in the
autumn or early in spring. It is useless to begin
thinking about hardy plant gardening about the
time bedding plants are put out, unless it be for
the year following. For the benefit of those
laggard readers who are through this compelled
to use bedding plants for another season, a few’
hints on the arrangement of them tastefully
may be useful. It should be lx>rnc in mind that
the one great objection to bedding is the stiff,
flat, geometric arrangements. In large gardens
an equally great objection is that it confines
attention to a few’ plants, to the exclusion of
nearly all tho beauties of the floral w’orld ; but
in small gardens this objection is of far less
consequence. Where, for instance, there is
only room for a dozen scarlet flowers, it matters
little w’liether they are Carnations or Geraniums.
Where bedding plants are used, all that is re¬
quired is to arrange them tastefully and grow
tnein well, and by the middle of July the garden
w'ill look as well as if decorated with hardy
flowers. There will not be that ever-changing
beauty there is w’hen hardy plants are used,
but there will be evidence of refinement and
good taste.

Take, for a simple example, a small front plot
30 feet square, and say that the space for flowers
consists of a continuous border and a circular
plot in the centre. A tasteless man would imme¬
diately begin by emphasizing the bad and stiff
outlines of the beds by planting lines of
Echevcria, Lobelia, and Golden Feather. Do
not fall into that mistake, but hide these out¬
lines so that your plants will look as if rising
naturally from the turf ; or plant the usual bed¬
ding stuff, if you choose, having the pretty contrast
of the leaves of Amaranthus or Alternanthera,
with Ccntaurea and Echevcria and blue Lobelia,
but plant in irregular groups, letting the
dwarf plants run in masses over the beds, and
the tall ones rise here and there from them. The
result is, in the picturesque planting, the utter
banishment of formality, and, to a certain
extent, of sameness. Plant in lines or patterns,
and you have always the same tiresome thing
staring at you the whole season. Plant in
picturesque groups and the effect is different
from every point of view, and changes w'eek by
week as the plants grow. Put it may be
objected that the effect of picturesque plant¬
ing is so ragged. Exactly, that is just the
very kernel of the whole matter; but the
raggedness is not in the plauts. Beautiful
vegetation, 'growing freely, is never ragged
until it falls into the sere and yellow leaf, and
is tending towards decay and death. The
raggedness and untidy appearance exists, but it
only exists in the minds of those who, looking
at a group of healthy plants, think them
ragged. It is caused by insufficient education,
by want of that quickness of f perception of
beauty which goes with refinement or fineness of
mind and body, the outcome of which is good
taste. Straight lines and geometric patterns
have their proper place, as slightly seen back¬
grounds to furniture ; or figures in pavements, to
be trodden under foot; as dividing lines between
higher kinds of decoration. But plants are
complete in themselves, and have all the
straight line they require in their central stem,
and all the geometry suitable for them in the
basis of their flower forms. If those readers
who know nothing of art will only think what
kind of training is necessary to fit an artist for
his profession, they will see in a moment that all
preference for geometry and clipping must be
bad. The first part of the course of instruc¬
tion in schools of art consists in copying simple
outlines. A person, who has never learned
drawing is exactly in the position of Christian,
in the “ Pilgrim’s Progress,” when he started on
his journey—he cannot even see the wicket-gate
at which he has to enter ; he can just make out
the light over it sufficiently to move in the
right direction. In all teaching of art the
training of the eye to see is ninety-nine-
hundredths of the business. Hence it is
necessary to begin with copying simple curves
from simple curves, and when these are mastered,
simple forms from casts are undertaken. Thebest

>. ornaments are made up of a few sele
ie forms from natural plants, so that the dra
It of them leads up to the drawing of nafc
ie forms. Now, when drawing from nature
,g reached, what forms are selected ! Not
c> of garden flowers—not Roses, Dahlias, C
r> tions, Stocks, Asters, Zinnias, &c. The
ie of these are all spoiled and vulgarized by
n selections of the tasteless florist. We have \
ie go to the field, the roadside, and the wood
)r our lessons in beauty. The twining Ivy, Bri
5C and Bindweed, the graceful Virgin’6 bower,

( d spiry < J rasses, the Poppies and Cornflower!
w Burdock, the Thistle, and the Teazle art
y best lessons.

L t When capable of drawing these perfectly, the;

student begins to see the true beauty of folded
ls hill and breezy down, of winding river m
iS shady wood, of heaving billows and flying doei
)f and of living creatures and the human fen
divine. Mr. Ruskin w’ell said, “If you c*
3S draw a leaf perfectly you can draw the world
i a and it follows that if you can see the tr»
^ beauty of a free-growing plant, and enjoy
s> its wonderful harmony and variety of form a i
». modelling, you can enjoy the beauty of ft.
tv world. That beauty w ill, however, for r t
n remain a sealed book to you if you never MjJ
y at it, but destroy the beauty of the plant* v
,g they grow, or prevent that beauty from ehowpj j
l ? itself By unnatural planting and grouping, ft
d continual contemplation of beautiful plants si
the loving care of them is an art-trainiai is
it itself; and if those who think pictuMj*
•s grow’th ragged will just realize their pap
ir mental standpoint—and bear in mind os
■}. opinions are the result of want of pereqGi
flf only—they will soon get out of that «t Mi
)f mind, and awake in time to the trueenjcBSsl

10 which can be had out of a garden. Thesis*
b- tion for staring colours and tasteless p&fcm
g in vogue a few years ago, was merely 4 mV
f break of the savage that underlies civitf* I
jt in all modern races—a survival of warp«iaf|

woad, as our innocent village gam* ei
pastimes are survivals of idolatrous an Ians
e religions. Let us hope it w’ill be the las; ‘ ft
d old order changeth, yielding place to w».’
e The contempt of everything beautiful usal
r our middle classes has at last borne whokfli
u fruit fc and has touched the pockets of tlx a*

3 t munity in the form of loss of trade. Aim
g mentary acquaintance with the first <
n drawing has for several years l>een iw
it universal in town schools for all classes.
y fast creating an appreciative public for beoatfil
►e and artistid things, so that good taste igsv p <
t- expected to become more and more ww*
e every year. Those who still advocate
te as even tolerable anyw’here are almost atwly

11 those w’ho have been used to it, I

d dislike learning their business all ova sjW

d knowing nothing of hardy plants; and w*
ie who, having received no kind of art tnis»f<
it and having passed the greater part of tad*
g lives amongst ugly surroundings of the
ti vulgar and tasteless kind, are too old to ween
i, new’ impressions or w’ake up to fresh idea*-
)f is to be regretted that tne arrange®® 5 i
)f gardens should lie left to professional ganle^' I
d who are, perhaps, of all people the least nrxj
is to treat plants in anything like an arts
t- manner. ,

;o The gardener is the least likely of anyw
n to be able to see any beauty in weeds, a
-e plants of any kind growing without his®
ie Gardeners are mostly countrymen, and an? 5
i, familiar w’ith art or art ideas, and for tie sa

10 remuneration they usually receive it *
rs much to expect that they should be.

it in good circumstances do not usually tV ®r
ir their housemaid or footman as to a u '"^ '

11 arrangement of their house decor*®*’

>e furniture, and ought to treat their gaffc* ‘

c- the same fashion, only allowing the£tf* tJ ‘. V
le guide them as to the cultural necessity
id are his proper business, and all that ^ 1
i reasonably be expected to understand- I
»n rubbish the old florists formulated
be standards of beauty in cultivated flo*e’
it simply the result of utter oblivion to w 1
ie stitutes the beauty of a flower m 50
ie colour. The products of the same un
e- minds in designs for pottery and textile ^ i
is were the hideous abortions which used
2 s place in the ‘ ‘ chamber of horrors” at tne
of Design in Somerset House. "“V ^
st liard-w’orking men, whose surroundings

JlVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT I

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN I

Kti 21, 1884J

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

1?9

life wore utterly devoid of anything
ing or beautifying were tho originators of
Thing* of beauty, that aro to help
,e and refine, and administer gratification
>ple living in an atmosphere of grace and
moot, cannot be produced except by those
; daily lives are amongst the same sur-
iings. Beautiful art work and art ideas
>nly come out of the cottage and the
ns’ dwelling where ail the buildings of the
3 and cities are resplendent with beautiful
tecture and ornament, and the dresses
in public by the people are splendid in
r and fabric, and artistic in make. The want
e unconscious training given by theso beq,u-
surrouudings, and the degradation of taste
tituted by continual contemplation of our
streets and ugly dresses, is the main cause
people can only learn good taste now in a
>ol of art. What was in former ages learned
child learns its native tongue has now to be
ned asan adult learns a foreign language. The
rior of a good home can now be made as
itiful as homes have ever been, and even
re people cannot afford decorations designed
nd carried out under the superintendence
rained artists, a considerable amount of
ity can be introduced into a home, even by
tious selection from decorations and furni-
: of ordinary price. But all this has no
lenee on the artizan classes, and, until some
ning U provided for them, those of them who
in the world will continue to keep bad taste
meretricious glitter alive. One redeeming
uence, however, is fashion; fashions con-
ully descend. Clapham and Islington are
.yed to-day in the three years’ old modes of
West-end, and the furniture of Whitechapel
Bethnal-green is that which was ten years
j discarded by Belgravia and Mayfair. In
cime way bedding, when it disappears from
gardens of educated people, will follow the
of crinolines and “ peg-top ” continuations,
disappear for ever into the limbo of for-
en crazes. J. D.

he large St. Bruno’s Lily.—This is a
9 dower for cutting, and, even in the hot
her we have lately had, lasts very well in
m. It endures all the better if the sced-
were pinched off as the flowers “ set.” Its
white bells are charming. Of the two
ta perhaps the purest in flower and best in
t U the ordinary St. Bruno’s Lily, but this
»white one is a distinct gain, and associates
with the finer early summer bulbs,
ardy Geraniums. —The following are
a-dozen good kinds, which everybody should
being superior to many of the things culti-
4 in borderB: G. ibericum, a kind having
large purple flowers, tinted with violet,
le of the best, especially for early flowering;
1 us the blossoms are now fast opening. G.
enum, purplish crimson, and G. sanguineum,
»on, are both showy and useful sorts ; the
er is hardly ever out of flower in summer,
.cinereum has white flowers, finely striped
pencilled; it is dwarf in habit, and looks
>0Q rock work or on some elevated site. G,
*nse album, also white, and G. p. plenum,
arc striking robust-growing varieties,
i have bold, deeply serrated leaves, mounted
he ends of long stalks, and their flowers
» in succession for a long time. Strong
of these look well isolated on Grass.
JF only require good cultivation, such as
ud l»e given to all plants expected to give
r lfaction, and all of them are easily propa-
by division in spring.—E. H.

5 keep Pansies in full flower.—I find
,1 far the best plan to allow the flowers to
|> but the moment the fresh beauty of the
r fades to pick it off. The plant is not so
cxltaasted in this way, it has a far
p r strength within it to continue flower-
so adds to the beauty of the garden.
Rouble is really very little, and the results
beater than one would imagine. I neg-
l last year four plants and allowed the
J to form. The flowers became very poor
Itaignificant iu size, and gradually died
1 altogether, whilst long after that the
| plants were in full vigour and flower.—

[Myanthus Primroses. — These should

P tuke rank amongst the best spring
n for garden decoration/ Everyone

Digitize a by

sauuiu

spring

sees them likes them, and they not only make a
great show in the border, but are very useful
for cutting, My two-year-old plants have been
more or less in bloom since February, and have
just finished up with a burst of from .fifteen to
thirty trusses to each plant, each truss consist¬
ing of from six to twelve flowers. Both with
these and with seedling hybrid Primroses I find I
the culture usually advised to be erroneous.
Primroses are usually recommended to be
watered and kept growing during summer. I
find these kinds much better for a good roast¬
ing in hot weather, so long as they are not
allowed to die. With this treatment the whole
summer growth seems to go to the production
of flower-buds, and when the autumn rains come
only a few leaves are produced, and then they
start flowering. This is a great advantage, for
the first flowers, having long individual steins,
are not hidden by leaves, but appear like a
market bunch of Violets—a solid mass of flowers
with a circle of leaves round it. When the
leaves begin to grow the truss flowers rise, and
after the bloom is over the principal production
of leaves takes place ; then the plants go to rest
for the summer. Everyone having a garden
should buy a few plants of these Primroses,
and sow seed direct from the seed pods as soon
as it is ripe. A plant that can be trusted
for two months’ continuous bloom is certainly
an acquisition for the spring garden.— Barnet.

11600.—Musk in Rose bed.—It does injure the
Roses if it is allowed to spread all over the bed and close
to their stems. If you keep it within bounds, and do not
let it grow round tho roots of the Roses, it will not do
much harm. A9 you truly say, it is very pretty. 1 would
not adv ise you to destroy it.—J. D. E.

11607.— Veronicas.— It is best to plant the shrubby
Veronicas out in the open ground now. They will flower
in September and October next, and in mild winters they
will stand out of doors, and flower freely again the follow-
ing 'season. Established plants bloom in summer and
autumn.—J. 1). E.

INDOOR PLANTS.

CASSIAS.

AltUOUOU the species of this genus number
several hundreds, those of a sufficiently orna¬
mental character to merit a place in the garden
are but few. As seen growing under natural

Flower branch of Cassia floribunda (much reduced).

conditions, many of the Cassias are strikingly
attractive, especially those of an arborescent
character, the general appearance of which is
said to closely resemble that of our own
Laburnum. The difficulty, however, of repro¬
ducing those conditions which are essential to
many of these and other beautiful tropical
trees makes it almost impossible to cultivate
them with anything like success in this country.
We have, however, about half-a-dozen useful
Cassias, speaking horticulturally, and in addi¬
tion to these there are several species to be met
with in botanical collections. Of the orna¬
mental kinds, the annexed woodcut represents
one of the best, viz :—

C. floribunda. —This is a handsome yellow
flowered species, and one which thrives in a
warm greenhouse or stove, where it yields an
abundance of flowers almost all the year round.
It forms a compact shrub, grows very freely,
and is easy to manage, being at home in any
open soil, and likewise suffering very little from
the attacks of insects.

C

C. corymbosa is a handsome greenhouse
species. It may be used for sub-tropical
beddiug in the warmer parts of the country,
and if planted in good soil in spring, it forms a
good-sized shrub in a short time, and flowers
very freely.

C. alata may be treated in tho same way,
and is quite as handsome as the last men¬
tioned. C. Sophora is a good plant for training
along rafters or pillars, as it is very accommo¬
dating, growing freely and flowering literally
during the summer months. C. florida is
another shrubby species which bears large
panicles of deep yellow flowers.

C. marylandica is perhaps the best known
of the Cassias, being often used in the her¬
baceous border. It is a very pretty perennial,
growing to a height of from 3 feet to 4 feet, and
thriving well in any garden soil. This species
is largely cultivated in North America for its
leaves, which form one of the Sennas of com¬
merce ; it is sometimes called Wild Senna. C.
Fistula, the Pudding-pipe tree, C. angustifolia,
C. angustiloba, and C. Alexandrina are the
most important of the species, possessing valu¬
able medicinal properties. B.

11592. — Propagating Genistas. —Geuis -
tas are chiefly propagated by means of cuttings.
These are generally taken in the early spring,
and require a temperature of about 65 degs.
The soil should be a mixture of loam, leaf-
mould, and sand. When the earth has been
put into the pots, put a covering of sand over
the top. The size of the pots should lie
inches. Cut the cuttings carefully off the
parent plant and place them in the pots pretty
close together. Cut pieces of glass to the size
of the top of the pot3 aud place it over the
cuttings, and in about three weeks, with care,
you will have the cuttings rooted, but it will
be two or three years before they will make
large plants.—J. W. Kitchin.

Double zonal Pelargoniums.— Amongst
lants for furnishing the flower basket there is
ardly any more useful, and certainly none more
continuous or unfailing, than the double and
semi-double zonal Pelargoniums. They are,
however, only at home under glass protection,
as even in midsummer heavy rains soon spoil the
blooms—the centre of the
truss gets decayed before the
outer blooms are expanded ;
but under glass they are
really most effective, and for
cut blooms where brilliant
colour is required they are
indispensable. This is the
time to get up a stock for
next winter’s display. Young
plants in 3 inch pots, if
shifted into 5 inch ones and
grown on in cold frames, keep¬
ing all the bloom pinched off,
wul make a flue show when
dark days again come round.
There are so many beautiful
varieties of double Pelar¬
goniums in various shades
of scarlet, that it would be
well-nigh impossible to say
which is the best, but
amongst pinks ther 6 is no¬
thing equal to Mad. Thibaut,
for whether in 3 inch pots or in the form of large
specimens it is always covered with noble trusses
of rosy pink blossoms. It has an excellent
bushy habit, and needs very little preparation
in order to make good plants for either summer
or winter flowering. A quantity of plants
lifted from open-air beds last September and
placed in gentle heat have flowered continuously
ever since, aided by a sprinkling of Standen’s
manure applied once a week to the surface of the
soil.—J. G. G.

11608.— Hyacinths in pots. —Both these and Tulips
aro quite ready to strike out of their pots in June. They
ought to be dried and put away in a cool place until plant¬
ing time in September and October; Tho pots ought to be
placed out of aoors in the sun, and thcyBhouldbe supplied
with water until the leaves show signs of decay, when it
must be gradually withhcld.--J. D. E.

11613.— Winter-flowering Begonias. - Cuttings
of tho Begonias named should be propagated in March or
April. They should be grown on freely during the
summer. The plants you have now may be potted and
the pots plunged in a sheltered place out of doors.
Were you to plant them outthey would grow too robust.

-j. d.^XiNT VERS ITT OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[June 21,,

ROSES.

Rose Qloirede Dijon as a standard.—
In a recent number of Gardening it was stated
that this Rose is not well fitted for growing as a
standard. Neither is it if pruned in the ordinary
way, as in the course of a few years it becomes
so over-burdened with wood as to form a by no
means attractive object. I have seen plants
quite a yard across when cut back before start¬
ing into growth a mass of ugly, branch-like
growths, and so top-heavy as to require several
stakes to support them. The orthodox method
of pruning this Rose is to leave some half-dozen
eyes where the wood is strong, so that the super¬
abundant vigour is, as it were, sub-divided, w'ith
the effectof producing flowers instead of running
away into sappy wood which yields no bloom.
This repeated year by year has for result the
ugly specimens one so often meets with. There

is, however, one w r ay of treating this Rose
whereby very handsome specimens may l>e
formed, and which in more ways than one will
enhance the enjoyment derivable from the
old Glory. Instead of pruning long cut¬
back wood to within one eye if there is much
wood, aud to two if the branches are compara¬
tively few* growth will of course be strong,
especially in the case of vigorous established
trees, and when the shoots have made about a
foot of growth pinch out the tops. This will
naturally have the effect of causing laterals to
push, each one of which will be sure to produce
several good blooms later in the season of
course, but all the better for that, as they will
come at a time when good Roses are scarce.
Last year early in October I had a standard
Glory with nearly one hundred fine blooms on

it, and it furnished flowers until the first hard
frost3 came. This plant had only been budded
two years, and had been pinched in the manner
described ; it was a perfect picture. We can
have plenty of Roses in summer ; the scarcity
comes at its close and in autumn, but a few
plants of Gloire de Dijon managed in the manner
indicated would yield a bountiful harvest at
that time.—C.

Pent.— Geo. Robinson’s Brown Peat is generally used for
orchid9 and the choicer hard-wooded plants. Black peat
is used for commoner things, such as Rhododendrons, &c.

- S. P.— Yes; there are some very beautiful double

Cinerarias in cultivation.- Crocus Grower .—Try Messrs.

Barr and Sons, 12, King-street, Covent Garden, London.

- Movin'! Hollies.—“ Unique” Hollies may be safely

moved now if done carefully and kept well watered.

Names Of plants.— A. H. F .—Next week.- G

Robin son. —Chrysanthemum Leucanthenmm.- IF. F .—

Iris Thunderbolt, Rosa lutea, Austrian Brier.- K. K .—

Fuchsia corymbiflora.- Linlithgow. — 1, Ranunculus

Flammula; 2, Spannannia africana; 3, Centaurca

montana ; 4, Gasteria verrucosa. -.4. M. McC. (Lisburn J.

—Grindelia squarrosa, Chrysanthemum coronarium (pale

yellow).- 0. 0.— Species of Daucus.- F. J. C’.—Next

week.—5. P .—Specimen too small to name.- P. B.—

A triplex Halimus.- W. McD. —1, Alonsoa incisa ; 2,

Species of Eupatorium; 3, Symphytum officinale.-

C. G. O'Brien.— Campanula muralis ; Spider-wort is Trades-
cantia virginica ; Polemonium cojruleuni, Jacob's Ladder
(purple and white) ; Viola cornuta, Dog Violet: Veronica
Teucrium (Speedwell's). Please number each distinct

specimen next time.- J. F. Raynor. — 1, Saxifraga

ligulata ; 2, Spinea Ulmaria variegata ; 3, Sedum refloxum.

- M. Robinson. —1, Buddleia globosa ; 2, Asphodelino

lutea; 3, Ajuga reptans: 4, Polygata vulgaris.- Tory.—

2, Begonia mtida ; 8, Bignonia speciosa ; 4, Variety of

Tuberous Begonia ; 6, Jasminum fruticans.- Scotia.— 1,

Lychnis dioica, fl.-pl. ; 2, Caltha naluatris ; 3, Saxifraga

granulata, fl.-pl.- Umbel.— Ourisia coccinea, species of

Heraclcuni.- A. B .—Double Pieonia officinalis, Iris

Xiphioide9, Watsonia aletroides.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.—AW communications
for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
sid* of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Poblishrr. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any noro
deplume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
ansipered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again.

Naming plants.— Four plants,.fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when good
specimens are sent. We do not undertake, to name varieties
of florists' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas,
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist who
has the means of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to name should always
accompany the parcel.

11051.—Peach leaves blistered.—I have some
young Poach and Nectarine trees planted against the
wall of range of houses, outside, south-west aspect; Plum
trees against walbtvifll north aspect. (This is second vear

Digitizes by \jO OLt

since planting. They have nearly all their leaves and
young shoots blistered and curled up in a most curious
way. Can any reader of Gardening Illustrated tell me
the’ reason, and suggest a remedy 7— Nina.

11652.— Rose houses —Will anyone kindly say what
are the most suitable dimensions for a medium-sized Rose
house, the best aspect, and the best way to arrange the
climbing Roses ; also if they will do without artificial heat?
—A Subscriber.

11053.— Plants for profit.— Having just erected a
lean-to greenhouse, 12 feet by 10 feet, will some reader
kindly tell me what would be the most remunerative
plants to jfrow, so that I could market them in the early
spring, with a view to outselling the cost of tiring, kc.,
during the winter months ?—Alpha.

11654. — Diseased Fuchsias. — My Fuchsias are
attacked by some disease. I should be verv much obliged
if someone w'ould inform me w hat it is, and the cure. The
disease last year spoiled many of my plants. It attacks
the young leaves and the ends of the shoots, and they rot
off. It has just commenced again.—J. F. R.

11655. — Testacella. — My attention having been
directed to an interesting note on Testacella in Gardening
Illustrated, I venture to ask if someone could do me the
favour of posting me some score of specimens for observa¬
tion and study, since I find a difficulty, as a rule, in
obtaining them w'hichsomc correspondents do not seem to
experience? Of course, on their receipt I will at once
forward the cost of postage.—W. B. Woodward, 51,
Aynhoe Road, ll'cst Kenninyton Park, London.

11656.—Pruning" Berberis.—1 shall be obliged if
someone will tell me when to prune a hedge of Berberis
Darwinii. Mine was cut last autumn and did not flow er in
spring. It is full of young shoots. Should it be pruned
again?—N.

11657.— Blue AbutUon.—I shall be obliged to any
reader who can inform me where I may procure a blue
Abutilon. Such a variety, I am told, exists; but I have, as
yet, not succeeded in obtaining any definite information
about it.— Diana Latham.

11658.— Planting Roses.—I have two Rose trees in
pots(Gloire de Dijon and Marechal Niel) which are grow ing
very vigorously, and I want to plant the trees in a border
in the greenhouse. When is the proper time to do so, and
what compost should the border be made of ? Can they
be safely planted now ?—Abiitoxian.

11659.— Plants for north window — I would be
much obliged for suggestions of any plants that would do
well in pots or boxes outside a north window. They would
get a little sun in the evening and early morning, but
would catch a good deal of wind.—G. C.

11660. —Hydrangeas. — Will some person kindly
inform me what is best to be done with Hydrangeas to
preserve them until next year, and how to take cuttings ?
—J. M. Moslix.

11661. — Propagating Heaths. — Having some
Heaths from which I wish to raise voung plants, will
someone tell me how 1 may do so, and whether I must put
the cuttings into a hotbed or otherwise ?—G. D. T. P.

11062.—Tortoise.— Will someone tell me what is the
food of the tortoise, and a little of their ways? Not having
any before I am afraid of killing them.—G. D. T. P.

11663.— Killing snails.— Can anyone tell me a more
humane way of killing snails than by means of salt?—E. A.

11064.— Cyclamen.— What is the right name for the
rootstock of the Cyclamen? It is called bulb, and corm,
and tuber.— Rosa Dartle.

11665.—Roses in pots without a greenhouse —
Can I grow Roses in an ordinary room ? I should like to
have a few’ in my sitting-room, w'hich, unfortunately, is
north-east aspect, and, consequently, gets hardly any sun.
Can I grow them in a back room (south-west), and’bring
them in the other when in bloom for a short time ? I have
a small back yard, pretty open, and have grown Roses on
a wall there. I could stand the pots where they could get
sun and air, hut there is no room to provide the slightest
protection. Will they do better there than in a con lined
room ? How shall I keep them in winter, and would any
bloom then If kept in our drawing-room with a daily Are ?
Can Roses do with only an hour or tw’o of sunshine in
summer and none in winter ? A little plain advice will be
very acceptable.—J. W. P.

11666.—Killing mice.—Will any correspondent sug¬
gest a less cruel mode of killing mice than that (proposed
by A. B., Bourg-la-Reine, in Gardening Illi btratkd for
May 3rd, page 931 of giving them quicklime, which, after
causing tnirst, mixes with the water they drink and
becomes slaked in their stomachs, killing them by a most
painful process of internal burning?— II. C. T.

11G67.— Helleborus niger from seed.— Having
saved a tew seeds of the above this season, will someone
kindly give instructions for sowing the same? Also state
how long the seeds will he in germinating. I have a small
cold frame.— Beginner.

1106S.—Trees for shading.— Please say what is the
quickest growing tree for shading part of a law’n, and how’
long would it be reaching a height, say, of 8 feet. Also the
quickest growing climber suitable ior a verandah, about
8 feet by 2 feet wide ?—Kiko.

11069.— German Moss Peat.— An article appeared
in a periodical a short time ago speaking in great praise of
the above-named article os bedding for horses, cows, and
other animals, but more especially for spreading on the
floors of fowl-houses as a disinfectant , and doing away with
that nuisance, daily cleaning out, the Moss Peat remain¬
ing on the floor for two or three months without being
changed and the house still keeping sweet. It also stated
that after it has been in the fowl-houses from two to four
months it is very valuable for gardening purposes, and can
he used for all kinds of vegetables, flowers, and corn. It is
also used for fruit trees and shrubs, for which purpose it
answers well. The Moss Peat resembles rotted leaf-mould
w’hen it comes out of the fowl-houses. Would any of our
gardening friends say have they used the above" for potting
purposes in the place of leaf-mould or animal manure?
Would it he too strong, prodding it were kept a few
months to sweeten, after being in the fowl-houses? Loaf-
uiould is as scarce as money here, and the above would be,
truly, a great boon to many.—T. G., Barnsley.

11670.— Plaintain on lawns-How can the
leaved Plaintain be exterminated from die lawn? v
fully drawn out the root is 10 or 12 inches long. Itcvi
verv safely drawn out. When it breaks two or three
up In the place of one.— Manor Horst

BEES.

SEASONABLE NOTES.

The weather during the greater part of May
has been most favourable for honey-gathtric;;
large quantities have been stored, and Ripen
readily taken to and worked in by the beet
Swarming has taken place unusually early,
there appears good prospect of a prcsperuu
season.

Superixg swarms. —Supers may be fumisM
to strong swarms from a fortnight to thne
weeks after hiving, but it should be rental-
be red that the more swarms are assisted by
artificial feeding the sooner they will be reai
to store surplus honey in sections and stpea
Supers must not, however, be put in ucla
honey is coming in abundantly. In barfna
liives, broad frames containing six 1-pound it*
tions may be placed in the body of the hiveaei*
the combs, a sheet of queen-excluder zinc iifr-
vening. The sections should be furnished ti
foundation, either in small pieces as starts
or, still better, sufficient to three-parts fill th&
as this will cause a great saving of time id j
labour, as the bees nave only to draw itol
into comb, and consequently have not to seca
wax, which also necessitates the consumrta
of a large amount of honey. Sectioned bes
may also be used upon the hive, placed in am
over the frames. It is necessary to plw
separators of thin wood or zinc between afl
row of sections to ensure their being bail:hi
and of regular thicknesses, and to preventtfeffl
intruding one on another, which would ak
their removal, without damage, impatik
These separators should be narrower tlaath
sectional boxes by about $ inch at top ul
bottom. If there be difficulty, as there sc®
times is, in getting bees to work in thesecw
when placed over the franles, they may wi
duced to do so by first placing the aectic-ai
the hive next the cluster, where the bear
take to them more readily, and then, whed
foundations are worked out, they can be a
placed (with bees adhering) in the c*
over the frames, where the work will»
continued in them. Sections should be iH
moved as soon as sealed over, /«fj
left any length of time after coopl**® (
the beautiful white appearance of the a® 1 ;
will be marred by the heat ®
tramping of the bees over it. In re*'-? '
them, first blow a little smoke amon?&® I; 1
clear them of some of the bees; then I
one by one, those that are finished oft bra&vj
back any adhering bees into the crate or a w
the alighting board. As sections are rea» Tr ■
they should be replaced with fresh ones, r
taining comb foundation.

Supering straw hives.— Surplus white*. ' §
honey can be obtained from straw hives is “I
good form as from the best-constructed I
frame hive by using a super-crate conatn:>l
for this purpose. It consists of a square 1 V
w’ith weather cover, made to contain fifteen
pound or ten two-pound sections. At Jfr
bottom is a hole, corresponding with the
on the top of the straw hive, covered
excluder zinc, through w’hich the bees pas ‘
store their honey in the sections. ^
it be wished to super a hive which
not a hole in its crown, a pi«* ^ i
3 inches in diameter may be cut out of jffl
centre. This is best performed intitf® 1 '^!
of a bright day when many bees will^ l1flf < j
the fields at w’ork, and, if done with ^ ^
gentleness, using a sharp knife, scared) *.1 :
will take flight. The super can then be
on the hive, which, if done when the ,
a prosperous state, with large quantity *
honey coming in, the bees will usually
ascend and begin to work outthecombfoun'
with which the sections are furnished.
in straw hives should not be supered tm *
twenty-one days after hiving, as the be* 5 rl J
into a straw hive have all the wax for c0 [
building to secrete, consequently they &re |J
ready to store surplus honey so soon a* . I
bar-frame hives which are furnished witfl
dation. White comb honey can al-‘ 10 * j *

tamed in straw super? placed -trpon

JRBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED.

V OL. VI.

JUNE 28, 1884.

No. 277.

VEGETABLES.

GOURDS AND THEIR CULTURE,
t first record wo have of any of the Gourd
be being grown in this country occurs in 1370,
en the coarsest form of the Pompion or Pump-
i was introduced from the Levant. In
raids “ Herbal ” (1636) it is stated, “There
divers sorts of Gourds, some wild, others
ne for the garden ; some bearing fruit like
\o a bottle, others longer and bigger at the
1. keeping no certain fashion.’ 1 This is still
ir character, and the interest which was
cn in the family so long ago might well be
wed now ; but at the present it would
ear as if there was no country in which they
so little valued as they are in this. In
erica, France, and, in fact, all over the Con-
‘nt, they are extensively cultivated as articles
ood and objects of interest. Annually, in
iimn, there is an ancient and imposing cere-
ly in the Paris vegetable markets, when all
largest Pumpkins obtainable compete for
honoar of being chosen king, and the biggest
ecorated with a paper crown and carried
id the markets. Some years ago M. Gaillard
ibited before the Central Horticultural
ety of France an interesting collection of
ted Gourds, in which fruits of diverse
iirs and forms were grown on the same
\i. At one time scooped-out Gourds were
l in the East as jugs and pitchers, aud also
vessels for holding wine. Id his natural
ary erf Barbadoes, the Rev. Mr. Griffith
;s that some of the Pumpkins grown there
i large enough to contain 2*2 gallons of
ir. fn English gardens some of the largest
> weighed 200 pounds. Many more interest-
f*cts might be recorded in connection with
e plants ; but probably a few practical notes
ing on their culture will be more acceptable
roar readers. The varieties of Gourds are
l numerous, and may be included under

* headings—vix., the Pumpkin (Cucurbita
91, the Squash (C. Melopepo), and the Vege-
e Marrow (C. succada). Tho Vegetable
tow was introduced into this country from
sis about the year 1700, and is the best
wn and most extensively grown of the whole
lily. Aa in the case of many other subjects,
original type has been greatly improved by
mdisers, ami there are now some very choice
ts obtainable. The Squash finds more favour
America than in this country. A general
lection of the whole should be grown by all
o can find accommodation for them. Both
taniental and useful varieties should be
laded, and those here named and illustrated
types of the most valuable.

U1 seedsmen do not keep a full collection of
ardi, 6ome only giving prominence to such
:he Hundredweight, but others offer selected
ieties, and it is these we would advise begin-

* to purchase and grow. Packets of seed,
iaining a mixture of many kinds, are
erally cheap, and some curiosities may result
n them, bat mixed packets arc never so
factory as small packets of distinct sorts.

Propagation.

he plants arc raised from seed. This may bo
n at any time from February until May. Some-
« we have sown single seeds in small pots,

1 in other instances six or eight seeds have
® put into a 0-inch pot. The first plan is
as the plants can then be potted on aud
**1 forward without disturbing the roots.

* wil most suitable for sowing the seed in
••uiUof loain and leaf-mould mixed in equal
|b« with a little sand added. A few leaves*

the Iwttorn of the pots answer as well as
drainage at first. All the pots should
■ 5?* an< * “ len a hole may l>o made

wntro of each with tho forefinger, and
^ tfiudrop tho seed and cover up mode-
■ The pots should tlfeiTbe-ulaced in 1
^ or pit *hare the temi\r^o|i! t )U
or 6T> degs., and here ^young plg§

4 ‘pettily appear. W —|— first come

up the stems and roots arc very tender, and a
superabundance of water or a cold draught will
often causo them to perish, and until the first
rough leaves have been well formed these in¬
jurious conditions must l>e avoided. A gentle
bottom-heat makes the seeds germinate sooner,
especially early in the season, hut good plants
inay bo raised without the aid of this. In the
seed pot they should lie grown as dwarf and
stubby as nossible, and in order that this con¬
dition may be secured they should be kept very
near the glass, and on all favourable opportuni¬
ties fresh air should bo admitted. Although it
is generally advisable to raise tho seedlings in a
house or Cucumber pit if they arc wanted early
in the season, yet, during April and May,
a frame is one of the most suitable places m
which young plants can lie prepared for
turning out in the open air. As soon as a few
rough leaves have been formed, and the small
pots are filled with roots, the plants should be
transferred to larger pots. As a rule, 6-inch
pots are large enough to grow them in until

Honfleur Melon.

they are planted out. The pots should be well-
drained, and decayed manure may take the
place of the leaf-soil. By the time the plants
aro large enough to be attended to in this way
the stems will be of some length, and each of
them should have the support of a stake. They
are rather brittle, and it allowed to Ixmd over
may be brokou off or severely checked in
growth.

Positions.

Gourds arc sun loving subjects, and luxuriate
in warm spots. Cold, damp soils arc unsuitable
for their roots, and shade and cold windy
draughts check the development of leaves and
fruit ; but there arc situations in most
gardens in which they may be grown to the
highest state of perfection. Their squatty
or Kcamlcttt habits adapt them for adorning
ugly mounds, or draping hare trellises,
arbours, verandahs, or any place which it is
desired to embellish with luxuriant leaves and
diversified forms of grotesque fruits. The
more varieties which can be grown the better, as
they differ so much from each other, especially
in tiie shape of thu fruits, and a good colli etion
of them possesses a large amount of interest.
It is too frequently tho case that Gourds, like
Vegetable Marrows, are grown in odd corners
ou the tops of manure heaps, wdiere their
^tractions aro hidden and their crops lost,
t is often necessary to conceal places of this
kind, but this might be done with something

less ornamental than the Gourd, and if a few
of those w’ho have opportunities of growing
them would only give them a place in their
dressed grounds and let them be seen in connec¬
tion with the choicest forms of vegetation, the
value of Gourds as decorative subjects would
soon be generally recognised. Pleasure-grounds
and not kitchen gardens are the right places for
them. In planting them anywhere stiff soils
and wet 8pots must be avoided. Where the
soil is not naturally light and rich stations
should be prepared for them, and in doing this
wo would always put a barrow'-load or two of
rough stones at the bottom of the mounds ou
which they are to lib grown, as this insures the
roots being kept in a sweet, healthy state. Each
plant should have at least two barrow-loads of
soil to grow in, and this should consist of three
parts light loam and one of half-decayed manure.
The smaller fruited varieties might have less
soil than this, but where space will admit of it
they need not be too much restricted, as their
greatest attractions only develop themselves
under liberal treatment. When they are turned
out of the pots to be planted, the halls of soil
and roots w'hich are attached to each should not
be disturbed, and after planting they should 1x5
thoroughly watered. As soon as they begin to
grow they must be looked at frequently to tie
the shoots to some kind of support, and when
the fruits form, should the large-sized ones be
those of the climbing kinds, the fruit must be
tied in nets, or have something put under them
to prevent them from falling off. During warm
weather large quantities of water must be given
them, and any plants bearing very heavy
crops of fruit will be benefited by liquid
manure. Where the main object is to secure
big fruits, a large mound of rich soil may he
given them, and plenty of liquid is necessary to
mature those monstrous fruits which we some¬
times see in seedmen’s w indows. Some of those
we have.know'n to attain a weight of 200 lb.,
but while such are astonishing, they are not so
interesting os the smaller varied and richly
coloured fruits. Occasionally the fruits of some
varieties are shy in forming, and when this is
observed they can generally be fixed by ferti¬
lising the female flowers with the male blossoms.
Besides being ornamental in leaf and fruit, many
of the Gourds are valuable and delicious vege¬
tables, but their uses in this w ay appear to be
but little understood. According to many
authorities in bygone days, they must have been
looked on as a staple article of food, and they
might still be utilised in this way. If used
when young and tender they are equally good
as any Vegetable Marrow, and all of them
may be cooked in the same way. When
the fruits are allowed to ripen, they may
l>e gathered before the frost has injured them,
ana preserved for use throughout the winter.

We have frequently kept tnem in the fruit
room throughout the w'inter, but w'hen they arc
kept until the new crop comes in they require
to lx) stored in a dry place, suspended in a net.

In some seasons, when fruit for preserving lias
been scarce, Vegetable Marrow's have rx?en
recommended as a substitute for making jam,
and Gourds may also be used for this purpose,
especially the Sicilian or Citron variety.

The following descriptive account and illus¬
trations are taken from Lea Plantes Potjiqerc* :—
Wax Gourd (Benineasa ccrifera). — Native of
India and China Annual.—A creeping plant,
which spreads over the ground like a Cncumlxsr

f dnnt, with slender sharp five-angled steins,
rom -U feet to 6 feet in length ; leaves large,
slightly hairy, rounded heart-shaped, and
sometimes wfith three or five faintly-marked
lof>es. Flowers, axillary, yellow*, with five
divisions, W'hich reach almost the base of
the corolla, broadly cup-shaped, 2 inches
or more in diameter. Calyx reflexed,
pretty large, often pfrt^a^.^j (Fruit oblong,
cylindrical, very hairy up to about the time of
ripening, MCNftAT

kind of whitish flower or bloom, like that which

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

entire circumference, and particularly so toi
The flowering is very

green leaves. It is readily
each plant producing from
which are t'

little larger than a hen’s egg.
is the earliest of all, ripens fully in

occurs on Plums, but much whiter and more
abundant, and constituting a true vegetable
wax. Seeds, flat greyish, truncated, num¬
bering about twenty - one to the gramme
(15 grains), and 300 to the litre (about
If pints). Its germinating power lasts for ten
years. Culture: Similar to that employed in
the case of other Gourds. Uses: The fruit is
used like other Gourds. The flesh of it is
extremely light, slightly floury, and inter¬
mediate between that of the Gourd and the
Cucumber. It will keep pretty far into the
winter.

Valparaiso Gourd.—A plant with trailing
stems 15 feet to 18 feet long. Leaves entire,
slightly elongated, toothed, spiny on the edges,
of a clear green colour, sometimes greyish,
white on the upper surface. Fruit oblong,
narrower at the two ends, from 16 inches to 20
inches long, with a diameter of 12 inches to 14
inches in its thickest part, somewhat lemon¬
shaped, ribs absent or hardly indicated, skin of
a slightly greyish white, furrowed when ripe,
with a very large number of small cracks like
fine tracery. Flesh yellowish orange, sweet
and tender. A plant, unless it is an exception¬
ally strong one, should not be allowed to carry

'___i six to eight fruit,
short, ovoid, yellow, smooth, and a
This kind, which
less than

three months, and does not require any stopping.

extremity.

tinuous, and is prolonged on the branch*!
until after the fruit which were tint set!
reached their full size. Fruit very li
elongated, with well-marked ribs, ami a
netted over the entire surface, taking }
ripe a yellowish colour with a slight al
tinge. It is often 14 inches to 16 inch*]

Hit is often 14 inches to 16 inch*H
and 8 inches to 10 inches across. WtifcH
grown the quality is excellent; it is ktiuj
ripening. This and the Black Portugal OS
loupe are the largest of all cultivated Mefa*
The variety is equally remarkable for
great hardiness.

Bottle Gourd. —Fruit contracted torn!
the middle, and presenting two unequal
sions, of which the lower one is huger ui .
broader than the other, and often fl*to ad IP
the base so as to allow the fruit to rest ftp
upon it ; the upper division, next the HI
almost spherical. There are several vai^Hy
this Gourd, all of which bear fruit of ne^fl
same shape, but of extremely variable ok|
sions, some of them being nearly 20 inchah^l

Flat Corsican Gourd.

The flesh of the fruit has little density and is
slightly bitter, but its remarkable earliness
makes some amends for these trifling defects.

_amends for these trifling defects.

In Russia there are many varieties of it, the
earliest of which, generally producing but
fruit to each plant, is £ A

■A vigorous

large, flat leaves, which are hardly ever toothed.
Fruit oblong, contracted at the two ends, of a
pale green colour, finely netted when ripe, and
also bearing a number of excrescences of a
pointed shape, ribs well marked, but not very
prominent. FI
ing and sweet.

^ b one

", is said to complete its entire
growth in ten or eleven weeks.

Green-fleshed Sugar Melon.

{ >lant, with long branching stems, and very
arge, flat leaves, which are hardly ever toothed.
Fruit oblong, contracted at the two ends, of a
pale green colour, finely netted when ripe, and
also bearing a _

• ' ■ •’ " 11 ^ —*■ —y

ih pale green, extremely melt-
The length of the fruit varies
iches to 10 inches, with a dia¬
meter of 4 inches to 6 inches. It usually weighs
about 4£lb. to nearly 71b. Two or even three
fruit may be grown on each plant. This is
especially a summer Melon, and only attains its

Yellow Dutch Cucumber.

like that of the Yokohama Gourd, but quite
smooth and without ribs. It is from 6 inches
to 8 inches in diameter, and 3 inches or 4 inches
thick.

Yellow Dutch

Bottle Gourd,

larly formed ribs, and the surface
wrinkled like that of the Presootj
Melon. It is identical with tk
meloniformis of M. Carriere deso
Jicvue Horticoleiov April 1, 1880,
ber 16, 1880.

Naples Carpet-bag, and usually curved like the
necK of a swan, in which respect it resembles
the Siphon Gourd. It possesses the good quali¬
ties of earlinees and excellent flavour, and also
keeps well. The plant is erf small size, the
stems seldom exceeding 5 feet or 6 feet in
length ; it is therefore well adapted for gardens
of moderate extent.

Patagonian Squash. — A plant with very
long, running stems, with large, lobed, deep
green leaves. Fruit from 12 inches to 20 inches
long, and from 6 inches to 8 inches across,
traversed fromendtoendby five very regular ribs,
w'hich form a kind of prominent rounded
fluting ; skin smooth, of an extremely dark
green, almost black, a colour which it retains
after ripening. Flesh yellow, of medium
quality. This variety is remarkable for its
hardiness and productiveness.

Early Bush or Summer Crook - neck
Gourd. —This plant is not a climber or trailer,
but forms a tuft like the Elector’s Cap Gourd.
Leaves of a clear green, large, toothed at the
edges, and more or less divided into three or
five rather pointed lobes. Fruit of a very

Usually

2 en leaves with well marked angles,
ender, longer in shape and later in
than that of the Russian Cucumber,
’ertheless, well adapted for forcing.
>ur is at first a yellowish green, bul

In addition to the above, thfttqfl
arieties of Gourds includo some of toe n
ultivation : Grand Mogul, SiciliiBr**
Cgypt, Elector’s Cap, t

lucu, iiiniuuiv»«,

Cricket-ball, Turban, Bor
Egg, Pear, and Bottle.

\ a I IULICO Ui 1 ’GUIUO liiViuuv y, . pi

cultivation : Grand Mogul, SicUW***
Egypt, Elector’s Cap, Giant s r^c
Cork Oak-skinned, Mammoth, Bishops
Marble Head, C * " "*

Melon, Plover’s

Small Russian Cucumber.

changes to pale orange-yellow when the fruit
quite ripe. There are seldom more than two
three fruit to each plant.

Large Netted Honfleur Melon.—A ve:
vigorous plant, with branching, long, sj
remarkably slender stems. Leaves large, u
dulated at the margin, of a very light gre

lrV=-A truly minia-
'slender stem from

colour, usually distinctly lobed. toothed on th

irl small Kriaht.

'cxb 28, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

183

them on to boil. They are like Spinach,
f, therefore only put sufficient water with
l to prevent them burning; turn frequently,
^ when they are quite tender, drain, press,
chop fine, pat them in a stew pan, with a
spoonful of cream, a piece of butter the
of a Walnut, anti season with pepper and
; let it get thoroughly hot, and serve, either
i fEnglish fashion) or in the French style,
sliced cold hard-boiled eggs and sippets of
ted bread. Not one person in twenty will
r that they are not eating the real thing.—
f5 Waxkkt.

ftiite seeded Kidney Bean.— Asa late
l this is superior to the Scarlet llunner,
jugh in most respects, except in the colour
;he seed and the flowers, it somewhat
mblea it I have planted it as late as the
lie of June with good results ; but, as a

attended to os soon as the weather becomes hot
and dry and the plants appear distressed ; in
fact, we ought not to wait for the plants to
become distressed W’ith heat and drought before
we help them in this respect.—E. H.

Summer Spinach.— One of the most deli¬
cious, and at the same time easily cultivated,
vegetables is the round-seeded or summer
Spinach. It is regarded by most people as u
luxury only to be enjoyed by the rich, but any¬
one who has a garden and can grow* Potatoes or
Cabbages may have a supply of tender, succulent
Spinach, the only difficulty being attention to
keeping up successional crops. Little and often
should be the rule as regards sowings. We get
abundance of it by drawing broad shallow drills
between rowB of Peas, and as soon as large
enough the leaves are cut wholly off, and the
crop finished at once, as it soon runs to seed.

are few, and it is not at ail liable to become
diseased or injured by insects. As a rule we
find it planted in out-of-the-way corners. In
such positions six roots w r ill frequently not yield
so much produce as one good one would do under
more favourable circumstances. Deeply dug,
heavily manured soil, and shadeless position, are
the conditions under w hich the best Rhubarb
is produced. The best way of propagating
Rhubarb is by division of the roots, an opera¬
tion which should be done before grow’th begins.
Surface mulchings both in summer and winter
with strong manure are of great assistance to
Rhubarb, but all the feeding should not come
from the surface, and before planting the ground
should be turned up and manured thoroughly.
Forced Rhubarb is most valued by many, being
very tender, but it should be had equally so out-
of-doors throughout the spring, summer, and on

Canadian Crook-neck Gourd.

Green Flesh Sugar Melon.

Yokohama Gounl.

Wax Gourd (Benincasa cerifera).

Early Bush or Summer Crook-neck Gourd.

Patagonian Squash.

varieties OF gourds (see pp. 181 and 182).

% the first week in June is quite late enough
plant runner Beans of any kind. It often
•pens that those Beans w hich are sown early,
l which have to bear the heat of July, get
aiLsted before autumn, and then late-sown
pw become exceedingly useful, as in every
Jen there should be plenty of Kidney Beans
cat off by frost. The main and also the late
pe of Kidney Beans should be planted on
d land ; the rows should be at least 0 feet
rt, and even if wider they will succeed all
better; indeed, all tall crops, such as
bey Beans and Marrow Peas, are best
Lxted, with dwarf crops between the rows,
l the further the latter are off each other the
ter, as plants that have plenty of light and
make more sturdy growth and larger, better
ilt-up foliage, and feel to a less extent the
wiitudes of climate to w'hich we are so much
|*»ed than those closer planted. Mulching,
only short Grass from the lawn, should be

Digitized by

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However, by sowing a little about every
alternate week w'e have no lack of Spinach.
During the months of July and August a shaded,
cool position should be selected for it, such as a
north border on wrhich the sun’s rays are not too
powerfully felt. For Spinach good rich soil is
indispensable at all times, as the quicker it
grows the more succulent and delicately
flavoured are the leaves. There are many so-
called substitutes for summer Spinach, but when
well grown none equals the round-seeded com¬
mon summer kind. I find it best at this time
of the year, after sowing the seed, to give the
drills a good soaking of water before covering in
the seed. After that it vegetates regularly and
rapidly, and is soon ready tor use.—J.

Notes on Rhubarb culture.— Rhubarb
finds a place in every great garden in the
country, and no matter how small the cot¬
tager’s plot may be, it is sure to include one
root or more of Rhubarb. Its cultural wants

until September. As generally treated it
becomes very tough by June, and then its use
ceases ; but we have had it as tender and beau¬
tiful in colour three months after the time just
named as ever we were able to get it in April
or May ; this is done by never allowing any
stems to remain on the plants after they have
become too old for use. It may often happen
that there is much more produce than is re¬
quired at a particular time, but this should not
be taken as a reason for allowing the stems to
become old ; on the contrary, I would advise
them to be pulled off and thrown away, thereby
encouraging a regular supply of young
growths to be produced. By taking away
the old stems, young ones will continue
to come to the very end of the season, and with
plenty of feeding I have proved that their re¬
moval will not injure the plant more than does
taking them off in spring. Jfr. dozen of our
plants treated in this way last ahtumn have been

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

184

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Juke1^88

M

furnishing us with many good gatherings
lately, and they will be subjected to the same
treatment again. All who wish to grow Rhu¬
barb for exhibition should adopt this plan,
especially for autumn shows, as the stalks will
then be spring-like as regards tenderness and
purity of colour. I have sometimes pulled
away every stem visible from our Rhubarb in
July, the result being that in August and
September we had a young crop, the growth of
which was admired both in the garden and on
the table. Where roots are wanted for forcing
from Christmas onwards, a few of them may
be allowed to mature their growths as early in
the season as possible, but where nothing of
this kind has to be provided for I would always
encourage them to throw up young growths
until September.—C.

Sowing Lettuces. — I seldom attempt
transplanting Lettuces during the summer and
early autumn months, as they do not succeed so
well as those sown where they are to grow. This
is especially the case on poor land. If there is
abundance of good semi-rotten manure not
deeply buried, but forked into the surface of
the soil intended for Lettuces, they may be
transplanted during hot weather, and will grow
quickly and to perfection; but our garden is
not well supplied with manure, and my plan
is to make fortnightly sowings in two drills
about 30 feet long, but in smaller gardens
one quarter that length would be ample.
No ground is given up entirely to Lettuces, as
early in the season we plant or sow them
between the rows or intended rows of Brussels
Sprouts and autumn Broccoli. Later on, say from
the beginning to the end of July, according
as the early Potatoes are lifted, and between
which are planted 'Broccoli of various sorts,
several rows of Lettuces will be sown. They
are not greatly interfered with by the Broccoli,
and seldom fail to prove most serviceable for
autumn and early winter salads. Lettuces
delight in a rich and tolerably firm soil, and as
our Potatoes do not quite exhaust the quantity
of artificial and solid manures they receive, it
follows that the Lettuces are also much benefited
by them. Should the ground be at all dry at
sowing time, the drills are first drawn, then
well watered through a coarse-rosed watering-
pot, and after the seed is sown the soM is
levelled. This plan of enclosing moisture with
dry soil, instead of watering after the seed has
been covered, is much the best, not merely for
Lettuces, but for al 1 other seeds. When the weather
is damp and the slugs troublesome, the rows of
seedlings are occasionally dusted with soot or
slaked lime, early in the morning being selected
for the operation. When of good size, and
where the plants are at all crowded, they are
lightly thinned out, and any blanks can a few
days later on be made good by transplanting
with a trowel. A distance of about 10 inches
apart is ample for Lettuces during the early
part of the season, but in the autumn 6 inches
to S inches is sufficient. Wo generally sow
two sorts each time, one always being the
Black-seeded Bath Cos, which I consider in¬
valuable, whether for spring, summer, or
autumn work. It requires to be tied up to have
it properly blanched, but when it is fit for use
it is unequalled, whether as regards whiteness,
crispness, or flavour. Brown Lettuces do not
find favour in the markets, hence the introduc¬
tion of hardy Green Cos varieties. With

S ardeners and amateurs the case is very
ifferent, and they will make a blunder if they
discard the Brown Cos in favour of any hardy, or
so-called hardy, green variety. Besides, the
Brown Cos does not run to seed so quickly as
the green or white varieties. Consequently, it
should be sown regularly if only to secure a
succession to any of the “ superb,” “ mammoth,”
incomparable,” or “giant ” selections of the
Paris White Cos.—W. I. M.

11682.— Cucumbers turning yellow —Probably
they have not been grown in a house sufficiently heated.
A greenhouse is not exactly suitable for the culture of
Cucumbers. They like a warm house ora hot-bed, good
rich soil to grow in, with occasional dressings of rich
compost over the roots.— J. D. E.

Thrips on Cucumbers.— Successive fumigation and
frequent syringing are the most likely means to rid
Cucumbers of thrips. The syringing should be done with
a fine rose or distributor, and the operator should aim atj
those parts where the thrips arc most numerous. In this
way I have managed to keep the same plants from nine to
twelve months tolerably free from spider, and perfectly
free from thrim™^W.

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THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

Balsams. —These quick-growing plants very
soon fill their pots with roots, and where it is
intended they should grow large they must have
proportionately large pots, but it is of little use
shifting them when the bloom buds are much
advanced ; in that case all that can be done is
to use manure water. A diligent outlook must
be kept for aphides on all such plants, without
which they are likely to be infested, and their
foliage being tender does not well bear Tobacco
smoke. Quassia water, made by pouring boil¬
ing water on Quassia chips and letting them
remain in it for a day or so, is a good preven¬
tive, its bitter properties being distasteful to
most kinds of insects. Aphides rarely make
their appearance on plants syringed with
Quassia water once a week or so.

Chrysanthemums.— These should now be in
their blooming pots, and all that are strong
should be stopped for the last time. It is a mis¬
take to atop the shoots so often or so late as
is sometimes practised, as where that is done,
and the summer happens to be a short one, the
flowers set so late as to have insufficient time to
get fairly formed before it is necessary to take
the plants indoors, and where large flowers are
required stopping interferes with their produc¬
tion. A few sticks should be placed to each
plant in time to prevent its being broken by
wind. As soon as the roots fairly enter the new
soil, manure water ought to be used once or
twice a week. The idea that Chrysanthemums
should not have any stimulants given them until
the flowers are set is a mistake, it being im¬
possible to keep the lower leaves on them without
it, even where the attention in the matter of
water is such as to prevent their ever suffering
through drought.

Drac.enas.— Whatever propagation is to be
yet done with these, it should no longer be de¬
layed. The crowns of all the stove varieties, as
well as most of the greenhouse kinds, will strike
readilv in water in heat, and the leaves attached
suffer less when they are struck in this way than
if the rooting process is effected in soil or sand ;
the crowns to be so dealt with should be taken
off in the usual way, but may be left a little
longer—that is, so many leaves need not be
removed. They may then be put four or six to¬
gether in anything in the shape of small jam¬
pots, keeping the pots supplied with water until
the crowns are well rooted, after which they
must be potted and kept close for a week or two,
until they have got established. This will be
found a better method of dealing with the tops
of these plants than that which is usually
followed. The stems composed of the hard wood
are best shaken out of the pots, taking off the
bottom root pieces already formed and potting
them singly. The stems may then have all the
roots cut off as well as the leaves, and should be
laid flat down on the propagating bed, covering
them entirely with about half an inch of soil.
Thus managed they will push up a crop of young
shoots from the eyes, that can be taken off when
they have made three or four small leaves.

Greenhouse plants out-of-doors. — The
system of turning free-growing greenhouse
plants into the open ground in summer has
much to recommend it, provided the selection
made for such treatment is confined to plants
naturally able to bear the root disturbance
inseparable from the transfer from the open
ground to pots before winter, and enough
attention is given through the summer in the
way of preparation, so as to avoid the check,
otherwise calculated to result in serious injury.
The plants chosen for this mode of summer
management should be free rooters. Amongst
these are autumu-flowering Veronicas, Salvias,
white and yellow Paris Daisies, Solanums,
Chrysanthemums, and Callas. In all cases the
soil ought to bo free, open, aud not over rich.
The former condition is needful to admit of the
plants being taken up with a thick mass of roots
near home— i.e. t well packed together about
the collar—as opposed to the long, straggling
fibres which plants of most kinds have a disposi¬
tion to make in heavy, strong soils. Nor should
the material be over rich, if so growth will be over
luxuriant aud the plants will attain too much size,
which will make them less easily accommodated.
To still further keep them within a reasonable

size it is well to cut back the roots with a gpa
onceortwice during the summer. Whenthtru,
are in this way shortened it causes them to bn
back, and to make many more feeding fibres tt
they otherwise would do. The work should
done with judgment. Where thereisadisp^iti
in the plants to get too large or luxuriant t
root severing should be carried out before i
much progress has l>een made, or the lat
will suffer, and if the soil is at all dry comp
water must be given to prevent the kii
flagging, and in all cases where root shorten;
is thus effected they must be cut back, so u
keep the balls within the size of the pots tl
are ultimately to occupy. Where ChrysaKi
mums are grown in this way due attend
must be given to tying the shoots up bif
they got so long as to be in danger of breik;
with the wind. The advantage of planting c
in this manner is that much less attend
required.

Myrtles. —There are many who car t :
fragrant-leaved plants quite as much as Sot?
and, although old-fashioned, indepeniKi
their sweet-smelling foliage, the flotRn
Myrtles are pretty. Myrtles strike lafi
from cuttings, and where the stock is (Maa
it is well to put some in, choosing shooa b
are about half ripe and not too strong; iitk
can be slipped off with a heel they will n
more easily. Put six or eight together is tat
pots, keeping them moist aud close, but ski
neat until the base of the cuttings are caDa
over, after which they will bear being rae
Myrtles are naturally erect-growing pluku
to keep them bushy they should be wd*
back every year, by which means they bit i
kept fully furnished with green foliage deni
the base. When the plants have atfikO
moderate size they are better octeNaa
in the Bummer. The ordinary double-irai
old variety and the small-leaved JennyEeba
bach are both good kinds ; the last esprca.'j
very pretty in bouquets, and gives to »mtj
ments of flowers of this kind a perfum? vs
the other materials of which they arc cwsja
are not unusually deficient.

Lantanas.—T hese plants, though «
much grown as they once were, can easy
made very useful in greenhouses and cea*
tories during the summer and autumn mesa
a season when there is insufficient variety Ta
continuous disposition to flower causes ti»epn
to get into an exhausted state, unless they
adequate pot room to meet the free predrts
of roots natural to them. This can to s®
extent be met by the regular use of ca-*’
water. Where wanted to bloom nwjf
the autumn, a sufficient number shoeB 3* jj
stood out of doors, with their pots^-2- *1
ashes, in all cases keeping them freely
daily, and stopping any shoots that p*
luxuriantly.

Roses in pots.— Tea Roses for pot y- : ’
most varieties are best grown on their I
roots, and where a considerable stock a HJ®I
cuttings should bo put in annually. ' Jl
medium strength in a half-ripened state tafc
now and put five or six together in 4-incs
in sandy soil, and stood on a moist bottoa
close, cold frame, kept moist, and shade,! *
necessary, for three weeks, will in this
callused over at the bottom, after which. L
mitted to a humid heat, they willf 03
freely ; whereas, if placed in heat with-^
having time to callus, many will
Young stock of the Tea varieties string
spring should be kept under gk®
summer, as well as the ensuing winter; u q
it is a question if this section of the Bo*
is not better kept wholly under gk& ; ■
much their nature to lie continue®!?£
more or less during the greater per^

UIUIC Ul 1C30 UUl lllg IUC grtuw* t ,

year that they do this out-of-doors,*- .
glass covering they are never quite a _"
neither does it seem that rest is nCl€i6a j^|
them, as plants so treated go on J " or
nite time increasing in size and 1

vigour. The great thing is to ^
by the repeated use of manure water. "
keep them completely free from 1l r^
spider, and mildew. If any of
present they do injury in & reiy 3 1,1 ‘ ^
which it takes long to repair.

Campanulas in pots and
drooping C. fragilis makes oneoftm'j

basket plants for a -gji^een

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

TfE 28, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

185

* grown; it is easily managed, and little
t to the attacks of insects. By placing a

>n of the stock out-of-doors in the spring
,e*.*ping the rest in a greenhouse, the season
eir blooming will be lengthened. This

* will succeed in small pots—G-inch or
i are large enough—and they will do
or three years without repotting ; but

thus treated they should have manure
r in the spring from the time they begin
ow op to their season of flowering. C. pyra-
lis will now be coming into bloom, and
[<i have manure water regularly until the
■rs open. Young plants raised from seed
i parly in the spring ought to be pricked off
le open ground in a bed of ordinary soil, to
h some leaf-mould and sand have been
<1. keeping them well watered in dry
her, for on their getting strong before
rnn depends their ability to make hand-
specimens next year.

Flower Q-arden.

doing plants. —Keep in neat form, peg
i out to cover the ground at the earliest
ent, and water liberally, but not too fre-
tly; they will then root deeply and be
jnred by a few days* drought should cir-
•tancts prevent water being applied. Alter-
heras and other delicate kinds would be
tly assisted by a syringing at sunset on
n evenings, and a light surface mulching of
a fibre or leaf-soil. Keep all bad and
ng flowers off Violas, Verbenas, Calceo-
s, and Petunias ; this attention, combined
a "ood watering once or twice a week,
suffice to keep these usually quickly ex-
:ed plants in vigorous condition throughout
utire season. Carpeting plants and under¬
do require to be gone over once a week ;
ms and similar kinds should be pressed out
the fingers to prevent a tufty growth,
i the creeping kinds should be pegged or
led, and stronger growers, such as Mentha
Veronica rupestris, clipped.

:rbaceocs plant borders. —As respects
y, these at the present time are in marked
ast to the headers, and deserve all the
r as to keeping them in order—tying,
ing, and picking over—that can be afforded
Without Buch attention it is needless to
:t results at all proportionate to those had
bedding plants, hence their being so often,
unjustly, designated weedy and unsatis-
iy. Fill up vacancies by planting out
ing biennials for flowering next year, such
reel Williams, Canterbury Bells, Geums,
mbines, Delphiniums, and other favourite
l Should tne weather continue dry they
need watering about twice a week till well
Wished. Other appropriate positions for
e km;ls of hardy plants are the margins of
loberies * n an - v P ar *' dressed grounds,

before planting them the shrubs should be
uned, and the ground about them freed from
d*. and the spots for the plants should he
:ed up, adding where convenient either well
*yed manure or fresh soil.

Fruit.

INK — Early houses from which all the
- f** have been cut may now have the venti-
rskft constantly open, and the syringe must
reely used to keep the foliage clean and
tby until the wood is quite ripe. Keep inside
tors in a moist growth-encouraging state by
frequent use of diluted liquid, and add more
j-bmj outside to protect the surface roots now
f.■r n ? freely in the top-dressing. If the Vines
, k a healthy state, lateral growths will soon
buo'kntand valuable, but they must not be
, ved to run wild, otherwise they will do harm
. ding the main foliage now filling up and
my the buds from which the next year’s
1 w fruit is to be obtained. Now all the
is finished it will be advisable to go
fwe bunches in late houses with the scissors
. ^ Ast time, and removo a few of the smallest
j®. w bere they arc likely to bind, for if once
to become jammed their removal cannot
. u’^plished without leaving marks which
i *~ v »iblf when the Grapes are ripe. If not
q done, nut on more mulching, and give all
, ie borders a heavy watering -with warm
l W " Uano water, fill the evaporating pans
, / °^ ,r ning, and damp the bqrq^rs with the
4 1 ter do«ing for the di

er enable us to redi

a gentle circulation to admit of giving air at
night and on dull days will be needful a little
longer. When Muscats have passed the stouing
process, and arc safe from scalding, the house
may be closed early, and the heat may range as
high as 90 degs. for a time to swell the berries.
The ventilators must, however, be again
opened for the night, and then fire-heat will do
good service in preventing the temperature
from falling below 70 degs. Hamburghs and
similar kinds may range a few degrees lower—
say, 65 degs. to GS degs. at night; hut instead
of trying to maintain these figures in a dull,
stagnant atmosphere, it will ho much the host
to warm the pipes, and, with the exception
of the afternoon closing, keep up a constant
circulation of air by night and day. When
newly-planted Vines have grown to the top of
the house the leaders may he stopped, also the
laterals, from the base up to the hud to which
it is intended to prune in the winter ; hut above
the pruning bud a free rambling growth may he
encouraged to cover the whole of the trellis and
back wall. Keep the inside borders well mulched
and watered with pure water, and carefully pre¬
serve all the main leaves by a liberal use of the
syringe once or twice a day. Give an abun¬
dance of air from the time the temperature
begins to rise until it declines in the afternoon,
then close for an hour or two, and re-open the
ventilators for the night.

Orchard houses. —By this time the latest
Peaches and Nectarines will have passed the
stoning process, and many of the early and mid¬
season kinds will have commenced their last
swelling. As no more fruit will drop, it will he
well to look each tree over and see that it is not
carrying more than it is capable of bringing to
maturity, and at the same time to stop all sub¬
laterals to increase the size, and turn aside the
foliage to insure the perfect colouring of the
fruit. Keep the trees regularly fed with good
liquid and guano water. Mulch any that may
require it with good rotten manure, and syringe
well with tepid soft water about 6.30 every
morning and again after the house is closed for
the day ; mulch and well water with liquid of a
stimulating character or otherwise, according to
the strength of the growths and the crop of
fruit they are carrying. The insects to which
these trees are now subject are spider and brown
scale ; the first can make little if any progress
under good culture, and the second must be
kept in check by brushing with a short, stumpy
brush before it passes from the wood to the
leaves.

Hardy Fruit.

Apricots. —The Apricot is a badly treated
tree, inasmuch as it is frequently burdened with
such heavy loads of fruit that it is no uncommon
thing to see them forcing each other off the
branches. Where, after repeated thinnings, the
trees are still heavily cropped, the surplus fruits
should now be taken off and used for tarts;
leaders should be nailed in, and laterals pinched
hack, but not too close on south walls ; the
borders may then receive a little more good
mulching, followed by a heavy watering, and
little more will be needed until the fruit Begins
to ripen.

Peaches and Nectarines.— When all the
young growths actually required for forming the
trees have been nailed or tied in, the final thinning
of the fruit will follow without delav, as it rarely
happens that fairly-treated trees lose many at
stoning time. Where timely attention is paid
to the selection of the fruit for the crop, pre¬
ference should always be given to the finest on
the upper sides of the shoots, and, taking the
whole area of the wall covered with foliage, about
one Peach to every square foot will be found
quite sufficient for ordinary trees to carry. From
this time forward the principal work will be
keeping the foliage clean and free from insects,
the most troublesome of which are black fly and
red spider. The first may be destroyed by the
persistent use of Tobacco water, and the second
makes hut little headway where the borders are
well mulched and the engine is vigorously applied
at the close of the day. The proper balance of
the trees must also be kept in view, otherwise
foreright and gross shoots, while robbing the
fruit, will greatly interfere with the extension of
the leading branches, and as these never require
stopping where there is wall space to fill, growths
wljich will he taken out after the fruit is
gathered may lie shortened back to let in light

and air, so essential to the proper ripening of
the wood.

Strawberries. —Young plants intended for
making new plantations should he taken aM ay
from the parent stools and removed to a cool
shady situation as soon as the small pots arc
nicely filled with roots. If the ground upon
which they are to be planted can be cleared of
the spring crop, which generally consists of
early Peas or Potatoes, lose rto time in getting
it well lined, manured, and broken up to a
depth of 18 inches or 2 feet, add another dress¬
ing of manure, fork it in near the surface, and
tread firmly. Set out the lines 2 feet G inches
apart, see that the halls of the young plants are
thoroughly wet when they are turned out, and
place them 15 inches from each other in the
rows. Where new heavy soil is plentiful and
can be spared, give a little, if only a 6-iueh
j)otful, to each plant, and see that the halls are
firmly embedded and covered to protect them
from drought. Give a good watering to settle
the soil, and mulch with a little short manure.

Vegetables.

Sow at once the latest crop of Peas ; I grow
Wiliam I. and Unique, both good early and late
varieties. I have just finished planting my
stock of Celery, excepting a row or two for
very late use. Should the present favourable
weather last, youn^ Asparagus plantations will
he very much benefited by being mulched with
short litter, and having a good soaking of manure
water. Keep the beds clean by hoeing and
weeding when any weeds appear ; in fact, time
may now be profitably Bpcnt in usin^ the hoe
amongst all growing crops. July is an important
month for the kitenen gardener. Endive and
Cole worts should be sown at once. That important
crop, winter Lettuces and Cabbages of all varie¬
ties, must he sown this month. The land should
therefore be got ready without delay. Our early
Pea land is always used for seed purposes, well
cultivated, but never dug at all. We put on
2 inches of burnt refuse, which freshens the soil
and sweetens it, too. A good space should he
planted with the useful Cottagers’ Kale, as this
is a most excellent vegetable, and so hardy that
it will stand even our severest winters. It is
much better to have a good breadth of it than
to grow several varieties of similar Greens that
are not equal to it in any way. Give the plants
20 inches space in the rows, and allow as mmch
between each row. Thin out Vegetable
Marrows sufficiently, not allowing them to get
too much crowded, and if the situation be at
all exposed, secure the shoots so that they will
not be blown about by the wind. See that they
are well supplied with water. Wanting this,
the plants will not bear to the end of the
season. Cucumbers that have been bearing from
the commencement of the season and are now
falling off a little should have some of their
shoots thinned out, and p little fresh soil added
to the surface of the bed. In this the shoots
will strike root from the joints, where required,
by pegging them down. If the plants he clear
from insects, thus treated they will again push
out growth and fruit freely.

INDOOR PLANTS.

PELARGONIUMS FOR NEXT WINTER.
Of all greenhouse plants Pelargoniums I think
the most useful, especially the zonal section,
both single and double, as by a certain course of
treatment they may be had in bloom quite nine
months out of the twelve, and many sorts even
the whole year round. To get them to flower
during the autumn and winter, when they nre
of the most value, it is necessary to prepare them
specially, and the way to do this is to stand or
rather plunge them out of doors in some exposed
spot, where they can have the full influence of
the sun, as the great point is to harden the
growth, for unless the shoots become well con¬
solidated and ripened they never bloom in the
free manner they ought.

Soil and Potting. —Hie best plants for
winter flowering are those struck early in spring,
which should now be shifted on into 6-inch or
8-inch pots, according to the size and strength
of the plants, but as a general rule the less root
room they have the better they do, for if they
want help that can always be given at any
time, by watering rwith liquid manure/, I, The
soil most suitable tor zonal Pelargoniums is a

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

AT

186

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[JtiK* 28 , 168 ;

fibry loam, which may be improved by adding
just a sprinkling of soot, and incorporating the
same with it, as the soot not only acts as a
fertiliser, but assists greatly in keeping out
worms, and adds to the colour both of blossoms
and leaves, to the latter of which it imparts a
deep healthy green. Towards autumn, just
before taking the plants in, it is a good plan to
keep them a little dry, that they may have a
short rest, and it will be found that directly
they go under cflass they will begin to send up
their Blooms. To have these at their best and
prevent damping, the plants should be stood on
shelves or other positions where they can get
plenty of light and air, in a temperature
ranging between 45 degs. and 55 degs., which
degree of heat is requisite to keep them steadily
moving. .

Varieties. — Although most varieties will
flower during the entire winter, there are some
better adapted for that season than others.
The best winter bloomers are Vesuvius, Jessica,
and Ianthe in the single class, and F. V. Kaspail
and Wonderful in the double. Not only do
zonal Pelargoniums required for winter bloom
do best when grown outdoors, but those required
for the embellishment of greenhouses during
summer are greatly improved by similar treat¬
ment, but they should not be placed out till
they have been prepared for the change, as any
sudden transition from the protection and
shelter of glass to the open is sure to injure the
leaves, which, under such circumstances, be
come scorched and discoloured.

Show and fancy kinds, though, perhaps, not
so serviceable as the zonals, are very beautiful,
and make a grand display at this seasou, while
some may be had in soon after Christmas. The
best for that early period are the old Alba multi¬
flora, Alma, and some of the new varieties, such
as Crim8om King and Duchess of Edinburgh,
both of which are very fine. To have any of
these, good early cuttings must be struck at once,
and old plants intended to be kept must be cut
back, that they may break again and become
refurnished below. The later flowering sorts
also require the same treatment, but before cut¬
ting them back it is necessary to have them well
ripened. The ripening may easily be brought j
about by standing the plants in the full sun
and keeping them rather short of water at the
roots, which at once lessens the flow of sap and
causes a general hardening of the shoots. Many
lay the plants down on their sides, but that way
of bringing about ripeness is a very objection¬
able one, it being much too sudden, as the bark
becomes contracted and the tissues dried up
instead of the parts being made hard and
woody, which is the point to be aimed at. In
cutting back Pelargoniums they should be
shortened to within three or four buds at the
base of each shoot, but if extra large plants are
required they may be left longer, so as to form a
frame, as it were, to furnish up with young
growths. The proper time to shake the plants
out is as soon as the buds have started, when
the roots should be trimmed in a bit and the
plants re potted in smaller pots, giving them
the same kind of soil as that advised for the
zonals. The potting complete, the best place
for the plants is in a pit or frame, w here they
can be kept somewhat close and shaded for a
week or so, to give them a fair chance of making
a start. What assists them very much in this
is a syringing overhead both morning and even¬
ing, which, By keeping the atmosphere moist,
is much in their favour. As soon as fresh
growth commences the plants should have full
light and plenty of air, to induce the young
shoots to Become short-jointed, sturdy, and
strong.

Spot on t the Leaves. —Although the show and
fancy kinds do well up to a certain time in pits,
they will not winter there without spot coming on
the leaves, a’disfigurement generally regarded as a
disease, but it is not so, and only occurs through
the action of damp, and a low, unsuitable
temperature. The most suitable place to winter
the plants is on light, airy shelves, up near the
glass, where, if not over-watered, they arc sure
to remain healthy and strong. The fancy
varieties being a little more tender than the
show sorts, require a little more heat to do them
■well, and for these the temperature should
never be allowed to fall much below 45 degs.
Excepting aphides, which are very troublesome,

vigilant watching and frequent fumigation by
Tobacco of the house they are in* which is the
safest and best remedy against this pest, and
kills it quickly without harming the plants. D.

Rhodanthe Mangles!.— This is deservedly
a great favourite with everyone, its pretty rose-
coloured blossoms being equally attractive in
the bud state and when expanded. The white-
flowered variety of it, too, is a charming plant.
At one time these Rhodanthes w ere regarded as
very difficult to cultivate, but of late years they
have been brought into Co vent Garden Market
largely during the summer, and, in common
with most things grown in quantity, many of
them are excellent examples of good cultivation.
Quite a sheaf of stems rises from the pot, all
clothed with leaves that look as if mildew, once
a great pest, was now unknown. The upper
portions of the plants are masses of flowers,
some expanded, and more in the bud state,
which, with attention, will continue to open
for a long time. The flowers of this Everlast¬
ing are easily dried, and in that state preserve
their beauty for a great length of time. Hav¬
ing been very successful in the culture of this
plant, I am induced to give my mode of pro¬
ceeding. The seeds are sown about the end of
February in shallow boxes and placed in a
gentle heat, when they quickly germinate, and
soon after are removed to a frame, through which
a single hot-water pipe runs—just sufficient to
keep out the frost. Air is given freely, and
w'hen the first leaf is developed the young plants
are pricked off at once into their flowering pots.
Therefore better soil is required than if they
were to be again potted off. Five-inch pots
are a good size for them, and these I fill w'ith
a com\x)st, consisting of two-thirds loam and
one of decayed manure, adding a little leaf-
mould and sand to lighten it if necessary, but
that will depend upon the consistency of the
loam. The soil is pressed moderately firm, and
about fifteen young plants are dibbled in at
about equal distances from each other; a dozen
is sufficient, but by putting in this number a
few deaths are thus allowed for. The plants
are set on a well-drained ash bed not far from
the glass, and have all the light and air pos¬
sible, in order to'encourage a short and sturdy
growth, so that by the middle of May the
blossoms commence to open and the plants are
soon in full flow'er. Rhodanthes require careful
watering, and especially avoid w'etting the
foliage as they approach maturity ; when young
it does no harm. A little w eak manure w'ater
may be given with advantage as the pots become
full of roots. By varying the time of sow'ing
a succession may be kept up, and if sown in the
open ground early in May a good supply of cut
flowers will be obtained at a time when they
are very acceptable. A double-flow r ered variety
was sent out some six or seven years ago, but
its blooms were wanting in elegance, and it
seems to have almost, if not quite, dropped out
of cultivation.—H. P.

Mr. Laing’s Begonias.— There is perhaps
no class of plants in which such rapid improve¬
ment has been made as in the tuberous-rooted
Begonias now so popular as garden plants. It
seems but yesterday, so to speak, since the
parents of the race—viz., B. boliviensis,
Veitchi, Pearcei, and rosajflora, were intro¬
duced, and yet the descendants of these species
almost innumerable, and so altered

this latter .cfijss are not snbjec

Digitifl*??

ibject to insects, but
ifly requires much

character that the pure and simple types
from which they originally sprang seem to
have become lost in obscurity. A visit to
Messrs. Laing’s Stanstead Park Nursery, Forest
Hill, the headquarters of Begonias in this
country, show's how fast the march of im
provement is progressing. Here the great
speciality at this season is Begonias, which
may be seen in enormous quantities—in houses,
pits, and frames, as well as in the open ground
in thousands. The chief bulk, however, of the
flowering specimens, some of which are nearly
a yard through, are in one capacious show
house, a new span-roofed structure 100 feet long
by 20 feet in width, having a broad central
stage for the large specimens, and narrower
marginal stages for smaller plants. Just now
this house presents a brilliant appearance, for
each of the hundreds of plants contained therein
is profusely furnished w'ith bloom, varying in
colour from the purest w'hites to the deepest w Jtll ^-„ ir Ul/
crimsons, with w'ell-nigh every intermediate * Scotch Rocket should"

shade, beside various tints of yellow. The d
of the crowded stages, too, is coDsi.iertiu
hanced by the long lines of plants in bill
suspended beneath the ridge ot the house T!
show' how suitable some varieties uf tuta
Begonias are for hanging in conservator;.*
greenhouses, or for grow ing as vase ami p*a<
plants. The collection here number* tooc
named varieties, all of which are more or
distinct, either in size of flower, habit of gro
or shade of colour. Every year, however
a w’eeding out of the inferior varied
new ones are raised to supplant them. Fo:
past two or three years one would
thought that the climax of perfection hv.
attained as regards these Begonias, but •
season brings w'ith it novelties inabuad;
surpassing the older varieties in some pcc
other. The nurseries are open to visitors,
any of our readers interested in this be*:
class of plants would do well to pay a
during the next two months.

Lilies for pot culture.— Among tLr;
satisfactory Lilies for pot culture—that in:
those from which a good show of blooo asi
confidently expected even under very ■
conditions—are the different varieties of L k
ricum or umbellatum, now grown largeiy
Dutch, and imported in quantity during the ti
months. They are cheap compared will
of the others, and are well worth attention*
a supply of flowering plants has to be ktr.
All that is necessary is to pot them as »'
possible, and place them in a sheltered spot
of-doors. In the event of sharp frost weE|
they may be either covered with coal n.
litter to prevent the soil from freeas*,
hard, but the covering must be nsr|
before they start into growth in spring,
may be allowed to stand in the o(w p
till the blossoms are on the point ofepeA
when they should be moved into the peah-
conservatory, or wherever required. IipfJ
singly, 5-inch or G-inch pots will be larget-
but they may be potted so as to forming
good w'ay is to put three bulbs true-
in a 6-inch or 7-inch pot. In mentis
size of the pot I refer to such bulb* a
commonly imported, as occasional^ •;
large specimens are obtained, which u
course, need a correspondingly law
The bright orange-red or crimson
these Lilies are very showy when
conjunction with other subjects. Ldmr
will grow and flower well in the ope: U'
to which the pot plants may be adnata** •
transferred after blooming under *
allowed to remain for two or three
being again disturbed. Some of the beac L-
for this purpose are maculatum,
red ; marmoratum, orange marbled wit- ni
son ; Sappho, very bright and deep ^
erectum, orange; and incomp&n'^ ^

glowing crimson, the most conspiew
whole, and one of the cheapest, by
protecting some they may be had in b*>
the middle of May, and, on the otte ^
may be retarded till the end of June -"

11629.—Treatment ot

When any plant is considered to be ,
culture it is said of it, “ As easy to gw| ,1
Geranium. ” Take good strong cutting^
them across just under a leaf.
most readily on moderately firm .
cutting should be inserted by itse " w
pot, using fine sandy soil. When r - 9

formed tlie plants should be .
5-inch pots, using half good loam. •- J ^
mould, and decayed manure. Sorne *^ ;

also to be added to it. They grow
fresh if they are placed where tbefF r
of light and air.—d. D. E.

Clianthus from cuUingrs-I>oamk , f^ i i( -’ i
easy it is to grow’ Clianthus from cratunp-'
lovely thing for unheated greenhouses, vnef* ,
grow out of doors. Cuttings strike ia a
now.—C. O. O.

Hollyhock disease.— The note frog"

S ited one from me on the extirpation of
ollyhock. My plants were very had' but ^
moving day by day ever?' speck of dtf**®, g
free and healthy. I have used no other rtm .

The double white Scotch
grown, is truly a handsome hardy plant • , attt
specimens bear tail branching stems den .
with pure white rosetted blossoms
fume. Those who do rot poises?

URBANA-CHAMPAfGN

I

June 23, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

187

TREES AND SHRUBS.

The Rose acacia (Robinia hispida) is now
u* most beautiful of all hardy trees in tlower ;
deed, there is no other known to us which
iissesses such a combination of elegant growth
id profusion of lovely blossoms ; yet, for all
ist, it is seldom that we meet with good speci-
leus of it in private gardens. It forms a low,
preading tree, with pendulous branches, at this
eason laden with long racemes of blossoms,
riiich hang gracefully from the undersides of
he shoots. The flowers are about the size and
hape of those of the garden Pea, and are of a
ovely rose-pink colour, which, in harmony with
he fresh green foliage, has a pretty effect. It
ffould be difficult to name a more valuable
lwarf tree than this to adorn a lawn or open
shrubbery. It is perfectly hardy, but often,
t*iug grafted on stocks of the common Locust
Tree (R. Pseud-Acacia), it is liable to be damaged
hy high winds, the stem being frequently
•Lapped asunder at the point of union. It forms
it the present time quite a picture in Mr.
Sevens’ garden at Byfleet, and in the arboretum
it Kew there are some very fine specimens of

Make the pits large enough to hold about one
or two bushels of fresh loamy soil, enriched
with a little rotten manure. After planting
and firming the soil well, give each plant a good
soaking with water. It will be found more
profitable to plant strong, well-rooted plants than
weak ones, andplantsgrowiug in pots, if required
to be planted during the summer months, should
be selected. The points of the shoots must be
directed inwards, pegging them down until they
reach the bole of the tree. In this way a
smooth, green carpet will be speedily fQimcd.
No matter how barren the ground under the
trees, the Ivy will grow and progress rapidly
if the roots are provided for in the way just
described. Another good eflect is, it will kill
all weeds as soon as it assumes the lead. When
thoroughly established, the points of the young
growths will need cutting in to keep it close and
compact. Sometimes Barberries are planted
at intervals in the Ivy carpet, and with good
eflect, the yellow flowers contrasting well with
the green Ivy leaves underneath the spreading
branches of a large deciduous Oak or specimen
Cedar. St. John’s Wort, when planted close to
the edge of the Ivy, forms a good companion to

every part of it has been fashioned with an
artistic hand. It is, moreover, thoroughly un¬
conventional both in design and as regards its
contents, quite unlike the majority of gardens
about London, which as a rule suggest the idea
that all of them had been turned out of one
mould. The principal charm of this garden is
its simplicity. No intricate pattern of flower
beds blemishes the quiet lawn, which stretches
from the front of the house to the very out¬
skirts, and there is a conspicuous absence of any
attempt at petty ornamentation, such as foun¬
tains, and basins, and statuary, which so often
mar otherwise pretty gardens. The lawn,
t nough without any garish parterre, is not,
however, a monotonous green flat ; on the con¬
trary, here and there

Picturesque rocky bods crop up from its
surface—some isolated, others collected in irre¬
gularly disposed clusters, and all planted in
consummate taste with a variety of hardy and
tender plants. These rocky beds yield sufficient
colour to make the outlook from the house a
cheerful one, and, examined eloBoly, they reveal
a charming variety of plants, which yield flowers
from early in spring till late in autumn. The

LAWN VIEW AT THE FIRS, LEE, NEAR LONDON.

it. notably one on a rising knoll not far from the
distaff.

Ivy under trees. — It is often found
difficult to find a suitable plant to grow and
wr ff the gronnd under trees in pleasure
kToands where Grass does not succeed. But
I 7 )'* if skilfully planted, and care be taken to
lr *ia it properly over the ground the first
reason or two, will be found to give satisfaction
in most cisea. Although it may be considered
to be a very curious kind of underwood, seeing
that it is a climber, it is, nevertheless, one of
the best possible carpets for ground under large
tree*. Planters should bear in mind that close
to the stems of these there can be no moisture
for nourishment. Notwithstanding this, how-
tver, pits are dug close to the trees, when,
48 a matter of course, the plants fail. The only
to make a good carpet under large trees,
Handing singly or in groups, is to make the pits
for the plants outside the drip of the spreading
' ranches, and, if possible, clear of the extreme
VmnU of the branches : thus situated, the Ivy
roots will have the benefit of sun, and rain, and
^'isture. Care must, however, be taken to
the roots free from drip from the points of
w branches, for Ivy, like most other plants, is
r*ry impatient of drip falling upon its roots.

, P r °cure a quick and satisfactory carpet, the
*'y must be planted from [

Digitized by

•orn jTfSfet to 5 feeUja^,

it, growing dwarf and flowering freely.
Butcher’s Broom may also be planted with good
eflect near the edge of the Ivy carpet. It grows
in any soil, and in almost any position.—W. C.

A SUBURBAN GARDEN.

In these days, when the outspreading growth of
London is fast sweeping away suburban resi¬
dences which for generations past have beauti¬
fied the outskirts of our great metropolis, it is a
pleasure to find here and there a few beautiful
gardens that have escaped the hands of the
relentless builder. Such spots, hemmed in as
they usually are on every side by houses, are
like oases in a desert, though their number is
lamentably small compared with what existed
in times gone by. So near London as Lee is,
and in a neighbourhood fast becoming densely
populated, one would hardly expect to find
such a charming garden as that at “ The
Firs,” in the Old Road, just off one of the
main arteries of traffic, and within six miles or
so of the heart of the city. In this garden
one might almost fancy oneself far away
in the country, for there is nought to remind
one of the proximity of the great city save the
din of the passing vehicles. It is in truth a
lovely garden—one that might well serve as a
model of what a suburban garden should be, for

| material employed for these beds and all the
rockeries here is the coarse kind of rock known
as Kentish Rag, obtained from quarries in the
neighbourhood of Maidstone. Being in irregular
! masses, some nature-like effects can be obtained
I by a skilful disposal of them. Mr. Larking, the
proprietor, seems to have the happy knack of
arranging them so as to resemble wnat one sees
I in rocky districts, where the rock crops out of the
I ground iu irregular mosses. In this garden these
rocky beds are not placed in set ovals or circles,
but in every case are made subservient to the re-
I quirements of the plants to be grown in them.
They do not obtrude badly, as in so-called rock
gardens of the ordinary stamp. A large boulder
is half sunk in the soil, and around it are placed a
few suitable plants, which in course of time hug
its sides as if they liked its companionship. The
rocky banks and beds are planted with a variety
of subjects, some true mountain and rock plants,
others of taller growth, and in summer these
are interspersed with little colonies of brightly-
flowered tender plants, such as Pelargoniums,
so as to brighten up, as it were, their more
sombre associates. Another great charm of this
garden is its noble trees, the growth of many
generations ; without them it would be shorn of
one of its chief elements of beauty, and the
1 good effects resulting from its skilful design
would if great; measure, t|clost. The largest

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

188

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

trees are the English Elms, whose huge spread
ing heads tower above everything else, save a
pair of prodigious Black Walnuts (Juglans
nigra), without question among the finest speci¬
mens in this country. This Walnut forms a
magnificent tree of towering height, and the boles
of this pair cannot be far short of 11 feet in girth
and nearly 70 feet high. The massive brandies
spring from the trunk at a sharp angle, and the
smaller branches are gracefully pendulous, and
carrying, as they do, such dense masses of long
pinnate foliage, they have as light and elegant
an appearance as an English Ash. Mr. Larking is
justly proud of these grand trees, as they con¬
tribute so largely to the interest and beauty of
his garden. Among other large specimens of
trees on the lawn is an uncommonly fine one
of the June Berry (Amelanchier Botryapium),
having a symmetrical rounded head, which in
early summer is a mass of white blossom. The
other tree growth consists for the most part of
deciduous trees, such as Copper Beeches, Locust
trees, and a very fine Acer dasycarpum,
between 60 feet and 70 feet high. There
are some moderate - sized specimens of the
Cedar of Lebanon, but their growth has been
arrested, in common with most all other
Conifers, on account of the impure atmosphere
to which they are subjected, consequent on their
proximity to London. It is lamentable to see
how these and others, once thrifty young trees,
have had their luxuriance checked, and are now
dying a slow but certain death. There seems
to be but very few Conifers that will thrive in
these days near smoky towns. Cupressus Law-
soniana does better than most others, and there
are some creditable specimens of it in this
garden in the best of health. There is now,
happily, such a wealth of trees and shrubs with
which to embellish town gardens, that we can
well dispense with Conifers, or, indeed, with
any class that will only flourish thoroughly
under the conditions of an unpolluted atmo
sphere.

The house, a fine old building of red brick
with stone facings, and with its walls draped
with Magnolias and Ivy, has a pretty effect,
embowered amidst such fine trees as those to
which allusion has just been made, and from its
windows may lie seen one of the sweetest garden
landscapes which one could desire. The whole
place contains but a few acres, but it appears
much larger than it really is. The lawn is not
abruptly margined, but seems to melt away
into interminable recesses that run into the
outskirts of the place. All the surroundings
which would in any way tend to mar the effect
of such quietude are shut out chiefly by the large
trees, but, lacking these, high banks have been
thrown up, and these have been planted with trees
and shrubs, and studded picturesquely with
rocks and colonies of hardy Ferns. The end of
the lawn is very skilfully treated in this way,
and is one of the prettiest spots in the garden.
Little shady nooks and recesses have been made
for the Ferns, and in these they luxuriate un¬
commonly well, and form a charming picture.
Groups of such flowers as Foxgloves give a
cheerful appearance to the place, and the
sunny banks are enlivened by masses of such
beautiful things as Gentians and Campanula
turbinata, the latter being at present a sheet of
purple-blue, cup-like flowers. A rosary, too,
in this part is a delightful feature. The bushes
are not placed in beds of a set pattern, but in
irregular groups, so as to harmonise with the
surroundings, which partake more of a choice
bit of country wood scenery than a polished
suburban garden.

Hardy plants, alpine as well as perennials of
larger growth, are appreciated and put to good
use by Mr. Larking, but he has not the conven¬
tional long mixed border. He seeks rather to
produce fine effects by having bold groups of the
mo3t attractive plants in some prominent posi¬
tion, such as the margins of shrubberies, which
in some cases project boldly on to the lawn.
These bends are embellished with choice shrubs
and showy hardy flowers, Lilies, Larkspurs,
Lupines, and such like plants, which in good-
sized tufts are sufficiently showy to be seen
well from the windows of the house. The
mountain plants of course find a congenial home
in the rocky beds, and succeed far better than
when planted on dry stony banks, which
too often pass under the name of rockwork.
Here the plants a**e-f>laced wherer they are ex-
p^qted to thrive s\ have full

exposure, and those that delight in shade have
also their wants attended to. In most cases the
plants form little colonies, so to speak, and they
seem to thrive all the bettet for being in close
company with their associates. In a garden
like this one may find a suitable place for
nearly every hardy plant, which is impossible
where the design is geometrical and with¬
out retiring nooks and sheltered, shady
recesses. In one of these little bays, sheltered
on ail sides except the south, is a thrifty
group of Tiger Lilies and others, which, when
in flower, with the green of the shrubs for a
background, must have a pretty effect. In
another part one comes across a little gathering
of choice bulbous plants, such as the newer
kinds of dwarf Fritillarias, Tulips, and Crocuses,
in a position where they would show best in early
spring. There is a little bedding out, but this
is not of the usual style. In beds of simple
pattern, such as ovals and circles, one may see
masses of one plant. One bed is wholly tilled
with dwarf Tagetes (French Marigold), another
with China Asters, another with dwarf Agera-
tums, and so on. These beds are placed so
that one comes upon them unawares ; hence the
effect of their brightness is intensified. A com¬
mendable feature, too, is isolated specimens of
some of the finer types of hardy nne-foliaged
plants that have been planted, such as here and
there the Turkey Rhubarb (Rheum officinale),
Giant Fennel (Ferula gigantea), of which there
are some admirable and extremely ornamental
examples rising from the greensward.

FRUIT.

STRAWBERRIES IN PITS AND FRAMES.
As the time is at hand when Strawberries should
be prepared for planting, allow me to direct
attention to a plan whereby ripe Strawberries
may be obtained in advance of those from tho
open ground, simply by planting in pits and
frames. The plan will be found useful by
those who have not the convenience of growing
Strawberries in pots, and placing them in a
suitable structure to ripen their fruit. All that
is wanted is a bed of good soil and a cold pit or
frame to secure a fine crop of large fruit with¬
out the aid of fire heat or any other expensive
appliances.

Varieties. —The first step is to select a suit¬
able variety for the purpose. My choice would
be between Keen’s Seedling and President, both
of which are known to be excellent croppers
and good in flavour, but as Keen’s Seedling is
a little the earliest, it may be desirable to select
an equal number of each, when under the same
treatment one would form a succession to the
other. The number of plants required will, of
course, depend upon the space to oe devoted to
them. A light 6 feet long and 4 feet wide will
require eighteeen plants, that is, three rows
with six plants in each under one light. One
has therefore only to decide how many lights
will be occupied to find out the number of
plants needed ; but I may remark that less than
two lights of the size just mentioned would
furnish but a limited supply.

Preparing the Plants.— This is not a diffi¬
cult matter ; for this purpose runners should be
selected as early as they can be got. The best
way to get them rooted quickly is to peg them
down on the soil, first stirring up the surface
with a trowel, and breaking to pieces any hard
lumps ; then with a peg fix the runner down
firmly. In order t6 obtain the best results it is
essential that strong plants, with plump crowns,
be secured early in autumn, and to enable one
to get these the runners must receive attention
in the way of watering, so as to induce them to
form roots quickly. In hard ungenial ground
it will help the runners wonderfully if a couple
of handfuls of line rich soil are placed on the
surface for them to root into, which they will
freely, and, what is equally important, they
will lift better. In fact, any extra attention at
this stage will increase the prospects of a crop
in a way that no care as regards after manage¬
ment can possibly do. In three weeks the
plants will be sufficiently rooted to bear
removal.

Preparing the Soil. —The next step is
preparing a piece of ground for them, which
should be an open, sunny spot, and made both
rich and fine, and if a couple of barrow-loads of

road grit or coarse river sand be strewn _
surface and lightly raked in, it will induce

S lants to root better than they otherwise wc
o. When the ground is ready, cut

runners off close to the crown, and then_

plants should be carefully lifted and oonverd
on a hand-barrow to where they are to
planted. They should be put in 12 incbts :
apart each way, and if the ground is dry, a good'll
watering should be given, and continued a
intervals of every two or three days if tb
weather remains dry. A light shading for the
first few days if the weather should be reir
bright would also be beneficial. This but
consist of a few Evergreen branches stuck a
l>etween the plants, which, with the ei«p
tion of keeping them free from weeds, vil
be no further trouble until it is required to tab
them to the pits in Avhich they are to frnit.

Planting in the Frames.— Bottom heat »
not a necessity ; in fact, a strong bottom be*
would be injurious, but a little warmth bebw
the roots might stimulate them to make u
earlier growth ; further than that, however, it
would be of no service. A brick pit is to hi
preferred, especially if ripe fruit is wanted u
i arly as it can be had, as it affords grate
warmth and shelter than a wooden framr,
hut, with the exception that there would i*
a slight difference in the time of ripening, cm
is as good as the other, whichever is used, i
bed of good rich soil not less than S inches or
10 inches in depth is necessary for the recep¬
tion of the plants, and the surface should not
be more than 9 iuches from the glass. If the pi
or frame should be a deep one, the spare bdoi
the soil may be fillet! with any ordinary ad,
or any refuse that comes to hand that a ax
likely to sink. If ripe fruit is wanted i» adf
as it is possible to get it, the first plaiutk*
should be made about the middle of Febmry.
but if the planting is done on the 1st of Mirek
it will be soon enough for all ordinary’ purpose*
As a matter of course, the plants mustbeliftd
carefully in order to preserve ail the roots pos¬
sible. The soil must be pressed firmly aka
them and kept regularly moist by waterig
For the first three weeks after planting vej
little air will suffice, but as the leaves advifid
in growth more air at the back of the pit
be given, and the lights should be protect*!
every night with mats. When the fruit bepi
to form, a surface covering of Cocoa-nut nir* j
refuse will keep it clean and help to keep th
soil moist. I am of opinion that if it re*
;enerally known what excellent crops of Sin*
►erries may be thus obtained, many iwk
prefer to grow them for late crops in tk
just described instead of cultivating so sieve
loots. j- C*

11648.— Grubs in Apple trees. .-Ik
caterpillar of the goat moth (Cossus lignipc^-*
is probably the pest alluded to in this qaest^

It bores long tunnels into the hard
sufficiently large to admit a man’s lilt-
finger. The only way to destroy them i* &
push pliable wire into the holes until it Ttxcw
the caterpillar, which is easily killed. It ^
remain two years in the tree, eating the *<>/-
and winding its way through it. The mothi-tf*
found in June and July, and should be killed. J
codling moth (Carpocapsa pomonana) has »-
more troublesome to us, and does more dam^
than any other of the enemies of ourApple^f
It deposits its eggs generally in the eye of tw
young fruit in May. The caterpillar speedy
appears, and eats its way into the fruiU “
reaches the core, when the Apple drops on w l,
tree. One season half of our crop was K

by them. The grub leaves the Appk a ‘ 1
before or after it falls to the ground,!?^ 9k
cocoon round the stem of the tree, a ^ 1
soon produced, and again the App}* ‘ r t
attacked. The remedy is to destroy the inl^
Apples, removing the loose bark from the
and painting it with some sooty, thiekish bp-
—J. D. E.

1162.*!.— Melon culture.— When the
has grown about 15 inches long it should 1
the point pinched out of it. This will ^ “
number of side growths to branch out, an 1
these side growths the female blossoms
appear. There are always numerons po 1
bearing blossoms, which are readily distingu* •
from the others by their not havingjp) ’ j
ments of 1 fruit. ! f he-siigraWic portion o

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

June 28, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

189

lit blossom must be dusted with pollen, but, ones amongst them, on a sloping bank, has a easier. If planting in the store garden, do not
is best to watch an opportunity when four j very beautiful effect. The graceful growth of '— 1 - 1 A A ’ *---

blossoms are open together on a plant; | the taller Columbines is best seen when they

a plant would bear four fruits, and they would
ell evenly together ; on the other hand, when
e or two fruits are set a few days before the
tiers, the earliest examples run away with the
nole strength of the plant, and the later speci¬
es are of small size. The shoots must be
ached and thinned out if they are too close
gether. They do not succeed well when over-
•owded with wood and leaves. A tile ought
. be placed under each fruit to preserve it
m injury.—J. D. E.

Air roots on Vines.— So far as my ob¬
lations have extended, these are in no w ay
ljurious; at the same time I would rather not
it them; and it is this studying of appearances
hat has led me to make repeated trials to
revent their growth, but hitherto without
vail. Like moat other practitioners, I believe
mt their formation and extension arise from
quality of temperature between root and
ranch, a theory that to some extent is con-
.Tiied by the fact that their growth is much
ore general in early vineries than in others,
id this being the case, the way of prevention
obvious, viz., more warmth to the roots and
as moisture, and more air internally. But
ora my point of view the application of such
medies would be worse than the disease, that
, if it can be called a disease—certainly, it is
very harmless one, so that personally I am
•otent to let the Vines have their own way in
.is matter.—W. W.

Summer pruning: Currant bushes.—
fter trying the summer pruning of Currant
shea for several seasons, I can recommend it
labour well spent; not only is the crop of
i current year improved by the removal of
iat would become a mass of superfluous
)wth, but the buds that are to produce
xt year's crop are strengthened by the ex-
«ure to light and air to which they are thus
bjected, and above all by the leaves at the
3e of the shoots being retained fresh and
eeu until the end of the season, instead of
coming blanched and dropping off early, as
the case when all the shoots are allowed
grow unchecked, thereby forming a dense
vie. The best time to remove the points of
the erect growing shoots is while they are soft
d green— i.e., about the middle or end of
Ay. They can then be readily nipped off. If
tv want to test the merits of this practice let
«n pinch half their bushes of red and white
irrants (black sorts must not be so treated),
id leave the other half to grow r at will; they
dl then soon be convinced of the benefits
King from summer pinching. On walls de¬
nted to Currants tliis practice is especially
pessary, and the fruit, being thoroughly
ipened by the timely removal of the points of
he shoots, will prove invaluable for late dessert
■urposes. Ii is worse than useless to leave the
dioots intact until the fruit is ripening and then
■emove them, as the leaves at the base of the
hoots will then be either wholly or partly inert
V tong long shaded.—J.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

Two pretty -wild flowers.— The Solo-
iona .Seal is one of our commonest wildflowers
[ Wilts, and grows finely in coppices
halted with Oak and Hazel; stems may be
f 6 inches long from root to point,
i Crushed with waxy drooping bells of the
.ii of Snowdrop, usually three to each
* r o ! toves. Soil and situation seem to have
rea t influence on this plant; some specimens
ave the flowers poor, small, and narrow, while
^ ve bells two-thirds of the size of those
‘he wild Hyacinth, the divisions turned up
'■* the tip in the same way. This plant gains
f . y in effect when seen from beneath. Five
six large sprays of it make a beautiful filling
b T a kll vase, with a frond or two of
5^ a few tall Grasses, and a well-furnished
t W °! - two of Ragged Robin. Another beau-
(• wddflower is the common Columbine,
in gardens this is a beautiful plant, but
ppeoings in the woods it is much
to • f nen it only makes a few leaves, the
^ era aro wider and flatter, and a colony of
* / Plants or so, with a dozen or so of whi;

Digitized by

f white

g«

are brought on the level of the eye. Those who
have greenhouses in which frost is just excluded
should grow a few Columbines in pots. Our
nativo species varies in cultivation from pure
white, through pale lavender, blue, and rose;
through every shade of purplish blue, puce,
rose, purplish crimson, purple and violet, to
nearly black. The paler colours come most
exquisitely delicate under glass. A dozen or
two of the following sorts would have a most
beautiful effect in spring, both foliage and
flowers being beautiful:—Aquilegia vulgaris,
A. canadensis, A. Skinnerii, A. californica,
A. chrysantha, A. ccerulea, and A. kermesina.
—J. D.

Limnanthes Douglasi.— This beautiful
annual has lately been covered with showy
flowers, but it does not bloom quite early
enough for what is usually termed spring bed¬
ding, being just at its best at the end of May,
when the beds have to be cleared for their
summer occupants. It, however, well deserves
a place where it can finish its flowering. If
sown in September, either where it is to flower
or in a seed bed, and transplanted as soon as
large enough to handle, it will be found to be
most effective in May and June.—J.

Yellow flags as cut flowers.— Now that
Irises of all kinds are year by year becoming
more popular, the beauty and value of the wild
Yellow Flag (Iris Pseud-Acorus) as] cut flowers
for room decoration should not be overlooked.
Nothing can be more effective in certain posi¬
tions, especially when placed against a dark
background, than a tall Munstead glass tilled
with these, cut the whole length of their stalks,
and arranged with a few of their own dark
green, sword-shaped leaves. They last, also,
for a considerable time, opening their buds for
several days in succession after they are placed
in water. It may scarcely be believed that
some of these handsome water Flags so arranged
on the writer’s table were mistaken for rare
garden flowers by several persons who live
within half a mile of the field in which they
grew in profusion, and from whence they were
gathered.—K. L. D.

Columbines and Daisies.—1 read your
articles on Columbines with interest, having a
curious kind, of which I had not before been
able to find out the name. It is clearly
Skinneri, from Guatemala. As you say it is
rare, and the culture of it not known, my
experience may be interesting. The plant was
given me by Lady George Hill, in Donegal, who
told me she could get no good of it. That was, I
suppose, six years ago. I kept it in a cool
greenhouse, giving good care and repotting. It
flowered beautifully, and I saved a lot of seed,
certainly true, as I had no other Columbines.
I then planted out the old plant, but it was
killed in the extreme cold winters. I was then
away for two years or more from home. When
I took up the garden again, I sowed the seed in
an open bed in a greenhouse, hardly expecting
it to grow. That was last year. It grew well
all the winter in the greenhouse. About March
I planted out the young plants. I have now
a dozen fine young plants, which I hope
will flower this autumn. These are certainly
true, as I have no other varieties of Columbine
except the A. vulgaris. If the plants flower
outside this autumn I shall save seed ; if not, I
will winter some of them in the house,
and leave others out. I have another
rare plant I should like to know' the
name of—a beautiful red Christmas Rose.
I had the same difficulty as your correspondent
“C. C.” about Daisies till I faced the fact they
were hard to move in summer. I have moved
hundreds this year, red, white, and pink, and
have hardly Jost one, thougli I divided them
into very small pieces. Give your Daisies a
good mulching of cow manure before flowering ;
this will induce a healthy state. Divide when
the plant is still in vigorous flower, not when it
falls to rest. Have the bed thoroughly well
dug and softened and manured if planted in
flower garden ; replant at once, not allowing
roots to dry. Plant so as to get the roots
straight down. A Daisy can’t sit on its knees
like a woman ; it must have its feet straight
down. Cutting roots off to half length will not
do the slightest harm, and it makes the planting

'make separate holes, but dig a trench deep enough
to allow full length of roots straight down.
Cover with earth w'ell up to or over crown,
water so as to wash the earth firm in, and I
will venture to say “C. C.” will not lose much,
let him move his Daisies as often as he likes.

I mav say I moved my Daisies in blazing hot
weather, in a garden the soil of which is like an
oven in the sun, nor did I shelter for an hour.
—C. G. O’Brien.

Blue Polyanthuses. —I was much inte¬
rested in reading Mr. Beachey’a success in rais¬
ing seedling Primroses, on account of the blue
one which appeared amongst them, as it struck
me that I might, through the medium of
Gardening Illustrated, hear of a plant known
to me in my early days, but which I cannot
even hear of now\ It was an azure or turquoise
blue Polyanthus. My motherused togethershrubs
and flowers from Mr. Dickson, of Chester—
1 am speaking of some sixty years ago—and from
him I think she must have got the above plant,
wdth other beautiful varieties of the Polyanthus,
such as I do not see in the present day ; but I
would speak chiefly of the blue one, which be¬
came rather common in our immediate neigh¬
bourhood on the banks of the Conw'ay. I saw
it in after years in a garden near Parkgate,
Cheshire, and the last I heard of it was in a
cottager’s garden at Trefriw, on the river Con¬
way. Seeing in a late number of Gardening
Illustrated the name of “Cheshire Polyanthus”
has determined me to send the above descrip¬
tion to you of what I fear is now an extinct
plant, yet not without hope that it may be re¬
stored. It may be that the successors of the
Dicksons of sixty years ago, or gardeners in
their employment, may recollect the flower.
If so, a mere mention of it would be a satisfac¬
tion, as when I name it to anyone who has not
seen it I am thought to be romancing. An old
friend of mine painted it amongst a group of
other flowers about thirty-five years ago, thereby
proving that it has had an existence.—M. J.

Lilies of the Valley for market.—
Allusion has been several times made to the
excellent way in w'hich Messrs. Hawkins and
Bennett, of Twickenham, grow Lilies of the
Valley for market. Under their culture the
spikes of bloom of the Victoria variety, the
kind which they grow, reach a height of from
12 inches to 14 inches, the bells being very
large and handsomo, and of the purest white.
The leafage is also wonderfully robust; in fact,
in this variety, under this firm’s cultivation,
Lilies of the Valley are seen in the finest
possible form and in the highest development of
beauty. None of the roots are subjected to
forcing, but are grown in huge beds in the open,
and in defiance of the assumed need for shade
on the part of this Lily. All the earliest are
obtained from plants growing on a broad south
border, the warmest position in the place.
Early in the year these beds are edged with
boards, and over them lights are laid, to pro¬
tect them from the weather and induce earlier
growth. The latest beds are found behind the
plant-houses, and these get no covering, but
throw up bloom naturally. In this way the
season of bloom lasts for some two months, and
during that time immense quantities of spikes
are gathered and sent to market. It is a peculiar
property of the Victoria kind that, owing to its
stout stiff habit, the spikes of bloom keep fresh
and erect after being cut for a long period, and
are readily purchased by bouquetiBts and floral
decorators, because of their many good quali¬
ties. The beds seldom remain longer than six
years untouched. They are then broken up,
the finest crowns selected for new blooming
beds, and the smaller ones make nursery beds ;
but so robust is the average character of the
crowns throughout, that very small indeed is
the percentage of them that are unfit for the
blooming beds. The soil, when new beds aro
formed, is well prepared, and there is no stint
of manure. Still farther, each bed gets in the
autumn a top-dressing of rotten manure, and
through this in the spring the crowns burst, full
of strength and vigour.—A.

11634. — Pansies small. — Evidently the
ground is poor, and weak liquid manure, al¬
though it would help them a little, would not
make up for hard, poor soil. The Pansy de¬
lights in well-worked soil—that • is, it ought to

be dug up

»t or 18 inches deep, and have

FVERSITY OF ILLINOIS
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

plenty of cow manure incorporated with it. In
dry hot weather mulch the surface of the ground
with decayed manure, watering freely ; in that
case liquid manure is not necessary To im¬
prove small flowers mulching over the surface
with decayed manure would be very beneficial;
the roots would speedily work up into the
dressing.—J. D. E.

116+4.— Peeonies not flowering.— Probably your
Pwonies are too heavily manured, and suffer from cold.
Lift and plant out in Grass, and they will be likely to flower
well. They look very handsome in either rough or mown
turf. I have seen them flower well also under trees.

Calendula officinalis (Meteor).— I had a bed of
this last year which flowered until the end of the season,
and I left the plants in the bed, which surv ived the winter,
and are now a sheet of flowers, and, no doubt, will
continue all the Bummer.—W. B.. Doncaster.

ROSES.

11622.— Tea Roses. —These do best in the
house ail the year round if they can be kept
near the glass and free from greenfly and
mildew. Plants that have gone out of bloom
now will very soon start into growth again,
whether they are out-of-doors or under glass.
If they get plenty of sun under glass the
flowers will be better than they would be if
allowed to flower out-of-doors. They may be
repotted again if they require it; but if that is
not necessary a surface dressing with rich
compost would cause a more vigorous develop¬
ment, and the flowers would be better. All
through the summer and autumn the Roses will
grow, and every strong shoot will produce
flowers.—J. D. E.

11624.— Roses for conservatory.— All
the Roses named in this question would succeed
in the conservatory. Mareehal Niel and Gloire
de Dijon would be the best varieties to plant for
training over the roof. One plant of each would
be enough; indeed, one plant of Mareehal
Niel would easily fill a house 10 ft. by 9 ft. It
would be best to procure good strong plants in
pots at once. If planted now a season would be
gained.—J. D. E.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from, yarjt 175. J

Cob Nuts and Filberts.

The Kentish system of managing and pruning
Nut bushes is the most profitable one. There
they are kept as low, wide-spreading bushes,
hollowed out in the centre like a large edition of
a well-managed Gooseberry bush ; and pretty
well the same treatment which converts the
Gooseberry (which is not naturally a spreading,
open-centred bush) into the evenly-balanced,
free-bearing bushes commonly met with, will
do the same for the Nut. We start with a young
plant, and cut out the branches springing from
the centre vertically, at the same time
regulating the ring of branches forms the
circle surrounding the main central stem. In
the case of the Filbert or Cob Nut, bushes 10 or
more feet in diameter are formed in a compara¬
tively short time, and these low, wide-spreading
bushes, being full of small spray, from their
exposure on all sides to air and sunshine, pro¬
duce an immense number of blossoms, and carry
heavy crops of Nuts. Anyone who can by
pruning secure an evenly - balanced, open-
centred Gooseberry bush, can as easily carry
out the same system with the Filbert or Nut,
as in both cases the principle of action is the
same, only the Nuts should not be spurred in, as
is sometimes done with the Gooseberry. In
the Nut we must aim at obtaining an abundance
of feathery spray. This is best done by occa¬
sionally cutting back a branch to obtain a new
break, and by keeping the branches thin. The
pruning must be done annually. All suckers
or sucker-like shoots springing from the base or
the main stems must be removed. This is com¬
monly done, not by cutting out with the knife,
but by twisting them out with a sudden
movement of the hand. Nut and Filbert
bushes are often used to form boundaries as
separating screens in different parts of the
garden. In summer their leaves are so ample
they are well adapted for this purpose. They
may be used to screen buildings, or to blind
anythi ng of an unsightly nature ; and when
allowed a little more freedom of growth than
the Kentish growers permit, there is a good deal
of shelter in a screen of Nut bushes, and if
planted on the windward side of the garden the
shelter will be beneficial to many things.

Digitized fr.

Google

Soil and Situation.

The Nut succeeds so well under very different
conditions and circumstances that one might
say, except in wet, cold clays, the Nut will suc¬
ceed ev r erywhere; and it is difficult to under¬
stand why the best class of nuts, such as the
Cobs and Filberts, are not more grown. The
failures of the Nut crop are much less frequent
than are experienced umoug other fruits,
though from the early period of their
blossoming they run more than the average
amount of risk. In a regular plantation
the bushes may be 10 feet apart, with a
Gooseberry or red Currant bush alternating.
Afterwards, when the Nuts require all the space,
the Gooseberries can be removed. In all cases
the ground should be well prepared by trench¬
ing, &c., before planting, as Nuts are long-
lived.

Propagation.

The usual methods are by layers, suckers,
and seeds. The former is the best way of
increasing established kinds, and is best per¬
formed in November, though the layering can
be done any time before the buds swell in
spring. The branches to be operated on are
brought down to the ground, and they
may be of two or more years’ growth. A
notch should be cut about the centre of
the part buried in the soil, or the stem may
be split with a sharp knife at that point.
A slight hole is excavated, and the branch
pegged down, and then covered with sandy
loam formed into a basin over the part cut,
which must be kept moist in dry weather.
At the end of twelve months roots will, in the
majority of cases, have formed in sufficient
quantity for the layers to be separated from
their parents and planted in a nursery bed for
a couple of years to get strong, being in the
meantime pruned into shape by having the
centre opened, and all side branches removed
from the stem, the latter to be from 18 inches
to 2 feet high. Suckers are often used for pro¬
pagating, but, although they involve less
trouble, they are longer in coming into bearing,
and do not make such fertile plants. Seeds
are also often employed, and should be sown in
autumn, the seed beds to be covered with
slates to prevent the mice finding them
and carrying them off, which they quickly
do if unprotected. The slates also tend to keep
the soil in an even state of moisture, and hasten
germination. When the seedlings are strong
enough—which will be by the end of the second
year—they should be transplanted into the
nursery bed, and be placed in training. Graft¬
ing is sometimes resorted to for the purpose of
converting the seedlings quickly into bearing
plants. The same principles as are successful
in other kinds of grafting will be necessary in
the case of the Nut— i.e., the scions must be
taken off and be laid in moist earth in a cool
place before the buds begin to move on the trees
from which they are taken ; and when the sap
begins to move, in March, the young seedlings
may be headed down, and the grafts placed on
by any understood method, splice or whip
grafting being as good as any, binding the
parts together firmly and covering the union with
grafting clay or wax to exclude the air. All the
Nuts produce the male and female blossom on
different parte of the tree, the organs not being
situated in the same flower, as is common with
the Apple, Pear, and many other fruits. The
long brown catkins, which appear first in winter,
are the male blossoms, and about the time when
these have reached their proper state of develop¬
ment, usually about February, the female
blossoms burst out at the extremities of the
plump little buds which appear so numerous at
the ends of the feathery spray on fertile
bushes. The female flower is a bright crimson
tuft springing directly out of the bud, and
they are fertilised by the dust which fall in
clouds when agitated by the March winds.
Sometimes, when there is a scarcity of male
flowers, it is a good plan to cut branches from
the common Nut which are furnished with
male blossoms, and suspend them on the Filbert
bushes to ensure fertilisation, and so obtain a
crop.

Varieties.

Red and white Filberts, Frizzled Filbert,
Kentish Cob Nut. The late Mr. Webb, of Calcot,
raised several kinds of Cob Nuts, which I
have heard highly spoken of. E. Hobday.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(miscellaneous.)

lifloi.—Heracleum gigranteum -If ,, p»nn+
will send me his address I may be able to Msxst hm
G. F. C., Holmwood, Thorpe, Konrich.

11036. -Liquid manure for Roses -There b i
answer to this question on page 170, under the mrr-.x .
11591. Once a week would be often enough to use it Ga
the Roses a good soaking, and mulch over the root* wn
short, decayed manure. This prevents evaporttL>c. v
causes the roots to come to the surface.—J. D. L

116+0.—Rats.—Put sawdust round the plant*, in
the rats and mice will not go near them ; and put sawj^
into their holes. The smell of the turpentine will too
send them away. I And sawdust is a good protecnoi t
plants in the winter, and keeps the ground undemtii
moist in warm weather.—W almkr.

11645.— Machine for cutting turf edgings -
Buy at any ironmonger’s a sheep shears ; you will getagaj
quality of steel for about 2s. 6a. Nothing is handle rf.r t.
edgings, box or grass, slopes where a machine cans-;*, b
worked, comers, and general tidying work; but g*t gw
steel, the springs of cheap ones get wrong soon. They a
be easily sharpened with an ordinary table steeL-C. €
O'Brien.

11637.—Liquid manure for Gladioli.-
Guano sprinkled over the surface rather thiifj,
as soon as dry weather sets in, is an exce&u
manure for these. It should be watered in
a rose water-pot. In three or four waab
another sprinkling of guano should be appisi.
and once more it may be done at the aa
interval of time, if the plants are not in flora
After the flowers open no more manure is ne»
sary. If the guano is mixed with the water, u
ounce to a gallon is sufficient.—J. D. E.

M. M. H .—Kindly send us two or Urn* ped*
specimens, and we will try to help you .—A i "ss*
Gardener .—We make no charge for inserting or kss*es

queries.- Double Abutilons, G. IF.—There are we* r**

good double Abutilons in cultivation.- A. B—'So&eHL

your plants have been named in the usual count;if
kindly send again.

Names of Plants.— E. Harrison .—The to

send is a variety of the Spanish Iris (I. Xlphics;
can be easily obtained, and should be planted rastaa

- E. C. B.— Alnusglutinosa ;M. Debunotte lOaspusA

muralls.-Somerset.—1, Species of Lonicera .!, Aa»

anthropophora.- C. Tilhit (Grattucnd )Lola

rata (orchid); a fairly good Pelargonium.- C. l r S-j

1, Berberis stenophylla; 2, Escaflonia maeranthi.^M

pallida ; 4, Oncidium sphacelatum.- F. J. . -J

Doryopteris palmata ; 2, Lastrea decomposite— A rjl
—Athyrium Filix-faemina Victoria.—‘-Jfcrtrrwr.-apW

of Doronicum.- Chalk .—Campanula eiomeriii —1

F.E. IF.—Agrostis Spica-venti.- C. F. MunsUr.-tm

is Athyrium Filix-fcemina variety ; shrub is Fudaii raw

folia.-IF. Bishop .—Lomaria fluviatilis.- S*

Initials.— 1, Escallonia macrantha ; 2, English If?
Xiphium'; 3, Campanula persicifolia ; 4, Sedum gi*®

- R. F .—Appears to be Mrs. Sinkins' Pint, but ****

were much withered.- T. B. —1, L.vcium larbarB.l

Escallonia macrantha.- Inquirer. —The H«

Chickens Daisy (common).- Wiltshire.— Aw***®

the Goat Willow (Salix caprea).- A. H.

sibirica. The other numbers became detached fe* *
specimens.- No Name or Initials.—I, Hemeroafciw

2, SymphoricarpuB ; 3, Campanula mural is; t

aureo-reticulata.- M. J. B. S .—Muscari W*® 3 -

- F. IF.-Carludovica plicata.- J. F.

Species of Polypodium; 2, Brvophyllum calydnc.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents .—AH a***©^' -
for insertion should be dearly and concisely i irises •
side of the paper only and addressed to the Ewroi
relating to business to the Pcblisurr. Tkt < w
address of the sender is required, in addition tc **
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers (# (/***
should always bear the number and title of tb
answered. when more than one Query is tent ted** 1
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the neemJ)^
Gardening going to press a considerable time before \u **•
of publication, if w not possible to insert querut or- ojl
munications the week they are received. Q**™* "l
answered should be sent to us again

Naming 1 plants.— Four plants, fruits, or
can be named at one time, and this only
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name
of florists' flowers, such as Fuchsias, Gtranivru,
as these can only be correctly named by a
has the means of comparison at hand. Any
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to name f

accompany the parcel

11671.—Violas and Pansies. — He*
distinguish between a Viola and a Pansy, as
used in gardening at present?—G rcb.

11672.-Lilies of the Valley after flovenaT
Will someone kindly say what 1 am to do
the Valley after they have flowered in the
—Oaklrioh. i

11673.—Soot and worms In
injurious to plants, or can anyono recommend «.
better for worms in pots ?— Oaklrioh. j ,

11674.—Mignonette In conservator? ,

unfortunate in raising Mignonette from seed. * |
do not flower. WTien I transplanted I used eqawl jJ 1
manure, loam, and sand. I also tried them .

alone. Will someone kindly instruct me!—^ >

11675.—Climbers for arches.-I h*™ JJ i
arches 7 feet high surrounding the lawn. » ^ 1 ,

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED.

Vol. VI.

JULY 5, 1884.

No. 278.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

WHITE LILY OF THE INCAS.

(iL'sTRXEMERIA telegrina alba.)

1 value of Alatra-merias in the garden is well
twn to thoae who |have good collections of
-dy plonta, bat it is surprising to find how
nparatively little grown is A. aurantiaca,
ich, without question, is among the very finest
•dv flowers that now enrich our gardens. It
r. ioabtedly the best
he Alstr.emerias for
eni cultivation, but
hould like to direct
utioa to another
species whose
itv u of another
•acter. This plant
Ptlegrina, or the
of the Incas, as it
popularly called,

■h inhabits Chili
Peru. The flowers
this species are
s than thoseof the
r cultivated kinds,
ay be seen by the
upasying wood-
which represents
white form of it,
hey vary a good
in colour, from a
flesh tint to a
white, the latter
; extremely beAU-
It is one of the
f growers and not
dirficult to culti-
aecording to Mr.

(mill, who grows
ill, and from a
in whose garden
astcott our illus-
ra was prepared,
erning the culture
, Mr. Kingsmill,

;rows it admirably
ts, writes—" The
re of this plant is
e simplest Sandy
seems to suit it
The not should
ery well drained,
like all Alstmeme-
any disturbance
the root growth
t be avoided, and
plant seems to
ve best when left
e, or repotted only
y third year or so.
r the growth has
ed down the plant
do best if kept
■ dry in a frame
which frost is ex-
d. Heat must be
led, as it leads
to a premature
weak growth; in
the lights are best
altogether after
th commences and
» are over. This
’ cmeria has the
lional advantageof

l very dwarf, rarely exceeding 8 inches
1 inches in height. Fresh seed germinates
juickly, and with care might flower the
id year from time of sowing.” Other ex-
nt AUtrcemerias worthy of culture are the
‘ties of A. pulchella, Ligtu, and hmmantha,
;■ which require much the same treatment
l - Pelegrina. A. aurantiaca is a strong
in good light soils, and requires no at

HARDY PLANTS v. BEDDING OUT.

It is rather late in the day to reopen the con¬
troversy as to the comparative merits of hardy
plant gardening v. the bedding system ; but
when one finds in a publication, which is put
forward as a popular text-book on gardening
matters, “ bedding” still commended as the per¬
fection of flower gardening, and the arguments
which have been brought forward against it
simply ignored, with some trifling exceptions,
a few remarks seem necessary by way of

Whits Lily of the Incas Alstrosmeria Pelegrina alba).

recapitulation and counteraction of the per¬
nicious cult. Ideas partake somewhat of the
nature of plants. When thoroughly established
their roots spread far and wide, and although
the visible growth and the main roots are
destroyed, weak shoots keep coming up from
root fibres left in the ground. The arguments
against the bedding Bystem of garden decora¬
tions are mainly four. 1. It excludes from all
-a whatever, save that of keeping it within I conspicuous places in the garden almost all the
^ — | plants which are most suitable to our climate,

Digitized by

. I plan

Go gle

namely, those which will live with us out of
doors permanently, and gives us no advantage
in return either in beauty, variety, or any¬
thing else. 2. It necessitates our gardens
being bare and uninteresting at the most
enjoyable and flowery season of the year,
during the last fortnight of May and the first
three weeks of June. 3. It substitutes for a
system of garden decoration which allows every
plant to snow its true beauty, and institutes
continual variety and change the whole season
through without barenness or blanks, except
in the depth of winter,
a system of formal
and unnatural arrange¬
ments, which hides
or destroys the beauty
of the plants, and con¬
centrates attention on
ugliness and formality
of the worst and most
tasteless character. 4.

It reduces the furnish¬
ing and care of a
flower garden to a mere
system of plant manu¬
facture, requiring ex¬
pensive apparatus for
its proper carrying out,
all of which expense is
utterly unnecessary—a
few cold frames and
hotbeds in spring being
the only necessities for
furnishing a garden
with a complete collec¬
tion of hardy plants.

It is presumed by
those who still advo¬
cate bedding, that all
that is required to re¬
move objection to it is
to make a skeleton of
hardy plants or dwarf
shrubs, to be filled in
with plants flowering
in spring, in summer,
and in autumn in suc¬
cession. Now, the only
advantage that can In*
claimed for this modi¬
fication is that by in¬
troducing a further
clement of Bameness it
will make the effect
still more stupid and
uninteresting. No sys¬
tem of garden decora¬
tion is worthy of the
name that requires the
greater part of the
plants to be torn up
Dy the roots when they
are at their greatest
beauty—the thing only
wants fairly looking at
for its absurdity to be
seen.

At no time in the
year is nature more
beautiful than from
early spring until tho
foliage of the trees
darkens to its deep
summer green. A con¬
tinual succession of
beautiful flowers openB
In wood, down, held,
and hedgerow. In a season like the present it
seems as if by the 1st of June half the flowers
of the year had done blooming, and gone to
rest until another season.

Now what does bedding give us in lieu of all
this ? Double Daisies, Hyacinths, spring Tulips,
Forget-me-nots, Crocuses, and a few autumn-
sown annuals, followed by a period of dirt and
disorder, digging and manuring, and then a
blank until midsummer/ 1 £ Use hardy plants
only for AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

192

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 5 , 1884 .

The only intelligible argument ever advanced
in favour of bedding is on the ground of its neat
and highly-dressed appearance. And as those
who delight in it are equally fond of closely-
shaven lawns, dotted with shrubs of the child s
toy-garden type, basket beds and pincushion
beds, with a standard Rose in the centre of each,
one is led to the belief that such people are of
the same opinion about Nature’s productions
that the fashionable lady of the last century was
about herself—

She thought her Maker made her much amiw,

And daily strove to make herself anew.

A certain amount of neatness is appropriate in a
gaiden, but when the whole beauty of the
plants grown is sacrificed, as it is in bedding,
neatness costs a good many thousand times
more than it is worth.

Even with those who are thoroughly con
vinced of the superior merits of hardy plants,
it is lamentable to perceive how persistent the
bedding idea is. It is not great masses or beds
of hardy flowers that are recommended, but
the usual troublespme finikin lieds filled in the
old stupid way—an “edging” of this, a
“ groundwork ” of that, and a “ filling in of
something else. That is not the way to plant
hardy flowers. Have a great bed 100 feet long
by 60 feet wide instead of thirty trifling things

oeus wniuu wm uuv ..... -- —■ - ■ of a few yards area, and plant in it flow ermg

picturesque arrangements. Along straight walks Shrubs, Bush Roses, Hollyhocks in twos ana
is the best possible place for beds of florists threes, Chrysanthemums, Delphiniums, Dahlias,

. . ’ ■ ^ —ij.s~.fcs~ —^ ^ I Phloxes, and similar large plants, in sixes

and dozens, and smaller plants in increasing
numbers according to size. Allow plants to
make clumps, festoons, and sheets of bloom—
that is the way to get a good effect out of hardy
flowers. Let there be no emphasized line at the
meeting of beds and turf, and no artificial and
unnatural arrangements anywhere, and the
garden will become, in comparison with bedding
out, as the face of an intelligent being to that of
a grimacing and painted clown. J. D,

as fine Forget-me-nots, Crocuses, spring Tulip 8 .
Hyacinths, and annuals ; and, in addition,
sheets of Arabis, Alyssum, Corydalis, Phlox,
Saxifrages and Scillas, Primulas of many kinds
and colours, Polyanthuses, Auriculas, Narcissi,
Wallflowers, biennial Stocks, Irises, Colum¬
bines, Paeonies, perennial Poppies, early
Gladioli, Pyrethrums, Pinks, Carnations, Pan¬
sies, Rockets, florists’ Tulips, Hepaticas,
Anemones of many kinds,. Ranunculi, day
Lilies, Delphiniums, perennial Lupines, Cam¬
panulas, Sweet Williams, and multitudes of
less known plants, and all over by midsummer
day. Nor after that date has bedding out the
slightest advantage, for we can find room for
all the bedders in moderation to fill the places
left vacant by Tulips and autumn-sown annuals,
and have in addition a whole host of Lilies,
Phloxes, Chrysanthemums, Gladioli, Tigridias,
Potentillas, Antirrhinums, and Pentstemons,
besides a multitude of other showy hardy
plants. No argument which can possibly be
advanced in favour of any system of garden
decoration can justify the exclusion of any of
these plants from the most prominent positions
in a garden.

Where geometric gardens exist the proper
course is not to fill them with suitable plants,
but to abolish them altogether, and substitute
beds which will not interfere with tasteful and

flowers requiring high cultivation, and the many
colours of the nowers of these with a similar
habit in the plants make the arrangement of
them an extremely easy matter. In small
gardens there is a difficulty in getting the beds
large enough to allow of plants out of bloom
being completely hidden by those in flower, but
every increase in the size of the beds decreases
this difficulty, until, with beds 14 feet wide and
over, it disappears, and the early flowering
plants can be allowed to die down in peace. A
gay garden can be kept up in all but the most
untoward seasons, from the middle of March
until the middle of November, without the
slightest difficulty, and there will be a sprink¬
ling of flowers even in winter in mild seasons.
And all this beauty can be had in addition to that
of the plants used in bedding, for these can be
used along with hardy plants in summer, and
can remain in their places much later when the
season is favourable. To decorate a garden with
hardy plants, however, requires taste, skill, and
knowledge of the culture and habits of the
plants. A man who only knows the culture of
plants under glass and the production and pro¬
pagation of bedding stuff is little better than
a beginner in the cultivation of hardy flowers ;
not that hardy flowers are in the least difficult
to cultivate, but the proper course with most of
them is to find out the soil and situation they
require, and then leave them alone. To get
that knowledge some experience is necessary.
Experience is also required as to the size, root-
run, and habit of the plants themselves. There
are many showy hardy flowers, however, the
cultivation of which is, or ought to be, by this
time understood by all interested in gardening.
Florists’ flowers that can be grown in the open
air ought to be as familiar as Cabbages. Any
one who can get up a creditable bedding dis
play can equally well produce the very finest
beds of Delphiniums, Phloxes, Pansies, Ane¬
mones, Ranunculi, Irises, Hollyhocks, Pinks,
Carnations, Chrysanthemums, florists’ Tulips,
Gladioli, Antirrhinums, Pentstemons, Stocks,
Asters, Zinnias, Balsams, Indian Pinks, and
many others.

It is not the right way, to introduce hardy
plants into a garden, to attempt to use them as
the bedders are used. That is simply attempt¬
ing to retain the one feature of bedding which
is most objectionable, and the only one
which is objectionable on the ground of good
taste. What would be thought of the man who,
having a first-rate lot of pot plants to decorate
an entrance-hall with for a grand reception,
arranged them in rigid rows and patterns?
Equally foolish is it to attempt to retain
geometrical figures in the open air. The first
essential step forward is to abolish the beds and
substitute large informal ones Buited to pictur¬
esque groups of hardy plants. It is begging the
whole question to plead the existence or the beds
as an excuse for continuing the use of bedding ;
as well mightfwe\>lead the.e$i|Jtegce of criminals
D as an excuse fit j

readily propagated by division at any season e!
the year.

Arrangement of bedding plants. —I dj
not like “ J. D.’s” article upon the arrangenifrj
of bedding plants to pass without a challenge.
I do not suppose any florist or gardener will U
troubled by his high-flown remarks upon tbv!
class. I would, however, advise “ J. D. t*j
study the art of gardening, and by the time ht
has learnt to grow a Cabbage to perfection M
may perhaps be able to modify his opinion as M
the mental capacities of the class he profes^i
to despise. I should like to call “J. B. s
attention also to this fact, which I doubt noj
many or most of the readers of Gardening wd
affirm to be a fact, that the bedding-c.'
arrangements so obnoxious to him can be fotmj
only in the gardens of such as consider thee*
selves the “ educated ” class, whilst thj
hardy herbaceous border, planted with a total
disregard to uniformity, is found in perfect !
in the plots of the cottager and artisan, til
hard-w’orking, hard-living men.” An srritbi
taste is an innate gift confined to no class, tail
the contemplation of beautiful objects oc as
more create it than the contemplation of tic
Bank of England can put money into ywri
pocket. Happily for the poor man, who w
forced from circumstances into squalid
roundings, he is able to enjoy and apprervj
the beautiful as keenly as the rich, “diving a
an atmosphere of grace and refinement.’ Natc-1
is the same for all, and nature is be&utiiu. i
everything, and planting in what arrange^!
you think well (for everyone has a taste ol N
own), you cannot destroy the beauty of an
vidual plant or flower. Setting theories, ho*
ever, aside, it may be that if “ J. D.’ will giq
a description of the arrangement of his
garden, assuming he has one, it might be
some service to the readers of Garden f -
R. P. D.

of crime,

Old-fashioned Tulips.— There is a note
respecting these in a late number of Gardening
the writer lamenting that the strong-growing,
enduring kinds, which are often to be found in
such abundance in cottage gardens, find but
little favour with gardeners generally. There
is a vigorous, pure, yellow variety which flowers
almost later tnan any other kind, and which is
one of the showiest hardy flowers in cultivation.

It has a fine effect in masses of twenty or more
bulbs together. The great merit of these Tulips
lies in their indifference to soil, and their ability
to bear bad weather uninjured. Heavy rains
scarcely ever hurt them, for the flowers are so
very sensitive to atmospheric changes that a
shower must come very quickly indeed if it
catches them before they close. Then again
the stems, although long and slender, aro so
Btrong and flexible that the flowers are
never beaten down to the ground. They “ laugh
at the whirlwind and defy the storm,” and look
as fresh and happy after several days’ inclement
weather as most plants do when only soft sun¬
shine and balmy breezes prevail. Theso old-
fashioned Tulips should be borne in mind by
those who are interested in naturalising some of
our hardy bulbs in suitable positions in the
pleasure grounds. They ought, I should say,
to do well on the Grass, for, if I am lightly
informed, this is the true home of gesneriaccie.
The erect growth and bold appearance of these
Tulips fit them well for association with herbage ;
and I see no reason why they should not thrive
in such company.— C. Byfleet.

Golden Moneywort.— This is a yellow
leaved plant, obtained from the Common
Moneywort, "which grows wild in British
meadows; hence it may justly be classed as a
weed, but it is also an excellent plant for moist
and shady places in the rock garden, and for
carpeting the ground beneath the taller plants,
the appearance of which is improved by an
undergrowth of deep golden yellow, a colour
which this plant retains throughout the season.
We have used it for edgings and groundwork in
the open flower garden, but, being a shade-
loving plant, it gets rusty in bright, sunny
weather, and is, therefore, not to be relied upon
for such positions—at least not in the southern
counties ; northward it would no doubt prove
as useful for this purpose as it does in the j
south for undergrowth and rockwqrk, It 16

u

Palms in flower.— It may interest sonafl
your readers to hear that I have a Pal - • i
here in the open air now in full blossom, ij
clusters of small yellow blossoms have cost ^
all round and a little below the crown
tree, and look exceedingly pretty. It » j
Japanese Palm, which I planted about tww
years ago, and it is now over 9 feet high IJj
is the first year that it has blossomed.-J• *
Reeves, Dean of Ross.

11667. — Helleborus niger from see<L
The seed should be sown as soon as ripe- nj
will not germinate until next spring. I
drain, a 6-inch pot, put a pinch
cracks to keep out worms, fill to
an-inch of the rim with well-sanded Wf**! 1
and a little loam. Press the surface
water before sowing. Cover the seed
soil, and plunge the pot in a cool, shady
nearly to the rim, putting a slate or
similar thereon to keep off heavy nun-
that the soil never becomes dry, anu «**■*
March, if the weather is mild, the young F
will appear.—J. C. B.

11630 .— Narcissi not blooming -k*]
soil is too light for Narcissi ; they fail to a
the necessary amount of moisture and noumM
ment just when most needed. Before ,
foliage appears in spring, mulch them with.
or three inches of manure, and if the we*
is very dry when the flower spikes are-
veloping, give them one or two good sc**'*
of water. This will undoubtedly cause them
flower well, if not the first year the year
lowing.—J. C. B.

11643. —Planting out Camellias
Callas.— Camellias will thrive very ■

open ground in well prepared soil, ^
quite hardy. If the natural soil is a good, l* ‘
light loam it will need no addition ; tort ''
heavy nature it should have plenty of &
some peat mixed with it, and if sandy f0Zr ^r -
loam. Planting may be done at once, P r ,.
the soil in firmly round the old base,
care that the want of water is never expend
ami sprinkling overhead every evening; ®
weather. Callas are not hardy enough ^
main constantly in the open air, hnttn)
commonly planted out for the summer '
in good soil, repotting them in the

September. They make stronger growth ^

way than by pot culture. A rather
ation is best, and plenty of water mu&t 1*3

EflfStJiroF IlLWOlS AT
ftBANA-CHAMPAIGN

July 5, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

193

Iff'-V. -Ounnora acabra.—This likes a position
her sheltered from strong winds. It should have a
•p. rich Boil, as it is a gross feeder. It is not perfectly
requiring that the crowns be covered in winter,
icb guarantee* its safety. When growing, a good soak-
ot liquid manure much aids development.—J. C. B.

Hydrangeas.—These are comparatively
tJj. and will stand out of doors in a sheltered place ;
•■ted out, of course. They can be wintered in an
r.iry bouse, or in a greenhouse, and the half-ripened
>i may be made into cuttings, which will produce roots
dy uj a hotbed. The cuttings must be taken off at a
nt, or beneath a pair of leaves.—J. D. E.
liflo.—Hardy Palms.—These should bo planted
err the north and east w inds do not touch them, as the

TREES AND SHRUBS.

THE AILANTO, OR TREE OF HEAVEN.
Mokk than a century has olapwed since this fine
tree first found its way to European gardens,
and its merits as a useful shade and ornamental
tree of the first class are now generally
recognised. It iB a native of China, and its
exact date of introduction from that country is
pretty certain. The following memorandum
occurs in “Hortus Collinsonianus ”: — “A

The Allan thus in a young state, with flowers, fruit, and foliage.

L wintry blast turns the foliage brown. It is also a
d Pj*n to well mulch the soil over the roots, so that
frost does not penetrate very deeply. In the south
1 “roth-western counties Chaznierops excels* succeeds in
'open, but it cannot be depended on in the east and
■’fc'-J. C. B.

•^ -Panalee with small flowers.— September
"***£«*late to sow them, and it is probable that the
did not get strong enough to bloom as they should
Attend to them in the way of watering through the
®a«r, end do not move them, and they will doubt-
■« better next spring. If they still come small you
* conclude that you have a small-flowered strain.—

Jtnieia uniflora.-This is one of the prettiest and
^enduring of hardy flowers, growing vigorously in
wiy «oil. The flowers ere star-shaped, white, faintly
parple, and have a very pure and delicate
varsnee. a dozen bulbe or sojf should be r>l
• ber. as. like bulbous planks gens^aji^ nf’

stately tree, raised from seed from Nankin, in
China, in 1751, sent over by Father d’Incarville,
my correspondent in China, to whom I sent many
seeds in return ; he sent it to me and the Royal
Society.” Few trees are less particular as to
soil or position ; in slightly sheltered spots in
moist, lairly good ground it, however, grows
most rapidly, and soon attains a large size. In
France it is said to thrive on chalky soils, and
to get a large size, where scarcely any other tree
will grow. Mr. Robinson, in his “Parks, Pro¬
menades, and Gardens of Paris,” pays it the
following tribute: “Ail&nthus glandulosa—
sometimes called the Tree of Heaven, and by
the French Verms du Japon—is a town tree of
** kt excellence. When in a young state it is
iful from its long pinnate leaves ; when

old and well-grown it becomes a graceful forest
tree. But the Qualities that will above all
others recommend it to the town planter are
its perfect health and freshness under all circum¬
stances in towns. Dust, foul air, or drought
seem to have little or no effect upon it. For
parks and avenues it is indispensable, as it
perfectly retains its foliage long after our own
deciduous trees have been scorched by drought
and dust. It seems to do equally well on all
soils, having a constitution and a leathery
texture which seem perfectly indifferent to
any vicissitude of climate witnessed in these
latitudes.”

The small greenish tvhite flowers, in Bpite of
the number in which they are produced in the
branched panicles, are inconspicuous enough ;
but when these are followed by innumerable
fruits—somewhat like the keys of an Ash, but
rather smaller—tinted with bright red brown,
the general effect is quite different from, and
perhape superior to, that produced by any other
hardy tree. A large specimen at Kew has
proved, with a background of dark Pines, to be
tor the time the most attractive object in the
arboretum. For so-called sub tropical work the
AilanthuB, if cut back annually and kept to
one growth, grows rapidly, and produces foliage
of enormous proportions. It assumes a most
tropical appearance, and looks much unlike a
plant which requires no care or expensive
Quarters during the long winter months. The
Ailanthus, too, acquires additional interest as
the food of the silk-producing insect (Bombyx
cynthia), which of late years has been intro¬
duced into South Europe and Algeria. In its
native country its leaves are used as a vegetable
in times of scarcity, and recently Dr. Robert,
the inspector-general of the health service in the
French navy, has called attention to the fact
that the root bark affords a very valuable
specific in cases of dysentery. The leaves are
—in this country, at any rate—not liable
to the attacks of insects, which, in the
case of so many cultivated trees, do
so much harm at times, not taking into account
the disagreeable appearances caused by their
ravages. Horses and cattle, and it is said even
goats, refuse to eat the leaves. The wood, accord
ing to Desfontaines, is hard, heavy, glossy like
satin, and susceptible of a very tine polish.

Varieties.— The names of Ailanthus macro-
phylla, A. japonica, A. rubra, A. purpuroacens,
and A. mascula pcndula, found in foreign cata¬
logues, do not in all probability (with perhaps
the exception of the last-named) represent even
slight varieties. The variety with variegated
leaves mentioned incidentally by Koch in his
“ Dendrologie,” seems to be rare. The Ailan¬
thus flavescens of gardens belongs to a different
genus, and was determined by M. Carrifcre to
be Cedrela sinensis, Juss. Ailanthus is readily
raised from seeds, but, when these are not to
be had, root cuttings furnish an easy method of
propagation.

Statistics.— The following data are taken
from Loudon’s “Arboretum.” It would be
both useful and interesting were present mea¬
surements of these trees to be forwarded to the
editor of this journal. The largest tree is at
Syon; it ia 70 feet high, the diameter of the
trunk 3 feet 10 inches, and of the head 40 feet;
the trunk forms an erect column of 30 feet
before it branches, and the head is hemispheri¬
cal. In the Fulham Palace there is a tree
twenty years planted which is 25 feet high. In
Kent, at Cobnam Hall, twenty years planted
and 36 feet high, the diameter of the trunk
1 foot, and of the head 15 feet; in the Isle of
Jersey, in Saunders’ nursery, ten years planted
and 16 feet high; in Sussex, at Langham
Park, nine years planted and 12 feet high ;
at Kidbrooke, thirty years planted and 30 Feet
high. In Bedfordshire, at Ampthill Park,
three years planted and 12 feet high; in
Berkshire, at White Knights, there are several
trees, nineteen years planted, and from 27 feet
to 30 feet high; the diameter of the trunks
about 9 inches, and of the heads about 30 feet.
These trees produce flowers every year, and
fruit occasionally. In Cambridge, in the
grounds of St. John’s College, there are two
trees, both near the River Cain, one of which
is 40 feet high, with a. trunk 2 feet 7 inches
in diameter. In Warwickshire, at Coombe
Abbey, ten years plated and 12 feet higji,; in^T
Worcestershire, at Croome, forty-five years
planted anti 60 feet bigl) • the dlafaetejiLof-t'hje

194

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 5 , 1884 .

head 90 feet. In Berwickshire, at the Hirsel,
three years planted and 6 feet high ; in Perth¬
shire, at Kinfauns Castle, eight years planted
and 16 feet high ; in Sutherland shire, at Dun-
robin Castle, 43 feet high, the diameter of the
trunk 1 foot 6 inches, and of the head 33 feet.
At Dublin, in the Glasnevin Botanic Garden,
twenty years planted and 18 feet high ; at
Terenure, twenty years planted and 14 feet
high. In France, at Paris, in the Jardin des
Plantes, 68 feet high, with the head 44 ffeet in
diameter ; at St. Leu, where it was planted on
a large scale by Mr. Blaikiein 1794, it is 80 feet
high, with a trunk from 3 feet to 3£ feet in
diameter; in the Botanic Garden at Toulon,
fifty years planted and 60 feet high. At
Geneva, at the entrance of the Botanic Garden,
there is a tree from 45 feet to 50 feet high, the
trunk of which in 1883 measured 7 feet 3 inches
in circumference at the surface of the ground.
In Saxony, at Worlitz, a tree twenty years
planted is 25 feet high. In Austria, at Vienna,
in the University Botanic Garden, forty years
planted, 35 feet high. In Prussia, at Sans
Souci, thirty years planted and 20 feet high. In
Bavaria, at Munich, in the Botanic Garden,
twenty years planted and 20 feet high. In
Hanover, at Gottingen, in the University
Botanic Garden, ten years planted and 30 feet
high. In Cassel, at Wilhelmshohe, 60 feet
high. In Italy, at Monza, twenty-nine years
planted and 60 feet high. G. N.

TREES FOR LAWNS.

Trees for a lawn may be divided into two
classes—viz., those whose principal merit lies
in the flowers, and those in which the blossoms
play but a minor part, among which are included
those with handsome foliage and elegant habit.
Among

Flowering Trees
The earliest to open are the several varieties of
Almond (Amygdalus communis), which are
generally grafted standard high, and soon form
medium-sized heads, and are beautiful when in
flower either dotted singly on lawns or occupying
a prominent place in shrubbery borders. There
are several varieties of Almond ; but the most
conspicuous is the deep rose-coloured form.
Double-blossomed Peaches succeed the Almond,
and afford a considerable range of colour, the
blossoms being white, rose, red, and parti¬
coloured. They are also generally seen in the
shape of standards. Ameianchier vulgaris is a
low-growing, somewhat spreading tree, at most
only about 15 feet or 20 feet high, bearing pure
white flowers, produced in such profusion as to
cover the plant. This is the earliest flowering
of the Amelanchiers, the American kinds being
rather later in opening and larger growing,
though equally desirable. Many of the

Pyruscs form handsome lawn trees ; the
Mountain Ash (P. Aucuparia) is pretty when in
bloom, but much more so when laden with ripe
coral-coloured fruit. The white Beam Tree
(P. Aria) is more erect and formal in habit than
the Mountain Ash ; its blossoms are, however,
much in the same way, though the leaves are
quite different. The leaves are large, ovate,
and silvery underneath, and when stirred by
wind are strikingly interesting. The Chinese
P. spectabilis belongs to the same section as the
Apple and Pear, and perhaps it is no exaggera¬
tion to say that when in bloom it surpasses both
as regards beauty. It is a free, rather erect-
growing kind, with large pink flowers, deep red
in the bud state. The Garland Pyrus (P. coro-
naria) is an American form of the Crab, and
valuable not only on account of the beauty of
its large pinkish blossoms, but also from the
fact that they are late in expanding. To these
might be added many others; indeed, all the
cultivated Apples and Pears form handsome
isolated specimens when in flower, but the
temptation afforded bv their fruit when ripe
often prevents their being planted for orna¬
mental purposes. Amongst the different varieties
of the

Cherry (Cerasus) are the single and double,
white and rose-coloured. The Bird Cherry
(Cerasus Padus) now and then assumes the shape
of a large bush, and at other times that of a
small tree. It is remarkably handsome in
spring, whea-l^jden with raaemes of pure white
flowers, andf scarodv lecsyw|i|i^tumn, when the
npeVhiMyJMm

its beauty. Of Prunus divaricata there is a tree
or large shrub some 15 feet or more in height on
one of the lawns at Kcw which, every spring, is
very attractive. It somewhat resembles the
Sloe both in growth and blossom. The lower
branches of this particular plant rest on the
ground, and when in flower it is clothed from
base to summit with pure white blossoms. As
seen at Kew it is certainly one of the best lawn
trees which anyone could possess. Some of the
Thorns also are well worth attention, the different
varieties of the common Thorn (Crataegus Oxya-
cantha), being grand objects when in flower. We
have single and double white, single and double
pink, and bright crimson, the best of the latter
being Paul’s Crimson Thorn, which is very bright
and effective. Crataegus coccinea (the Scarlet
Thorn), is a vigorousgrowing tree, which flowers
later than the common kind, and is handsome in
autumn when in fruit. The Cockspur (C. Crus-
galli), or at least one of its vigorous varieties,
such as arbutifolia, is also well adapted for a
lawn. It has a bluntly pyramidal habit, leaves
deep green, ovate,, and very shiny. Besides the
beauty of its foliage, this Thorn is valuable from
the fact of its flowering very late in the season.
Nearly allied to the Thorns is Mespilus Smithi
or grandiflora, a tree about 20 feet high, with
loose, irregular branches, somewhat like the
common Thorn, but remarkable from the size of
the pure white blossoms with which it is thickly
studded at the end of May. The flowers, which
are solitary, are as much as 1 inch or 1^ inches
in diameter.

Magnolias form another beautiful class of lawn
trees, the Yulan (Magnolia conspicua) opening
its blossoms early in spring before the foliage
expands, and when studded with its large white
flowers it is a magnificent sight, and though at
times liable to be cut by late frosts, as a rule,
around London it opens its flowers satisfactorily.
This Magnolia forms a bluntly conical-shaped
tree, 20 feet to 30 feet high, of very regular out¬
line when grown clear of other subjects. The
next in order of flowering is M. Soulangeana,
rather looser in habit and less in stature than
the preceding, from which it is said by some
to be a seedling. Instead of the pure white
blossoms of the Yulan, those of this variety are
more or less tinged with purple, and expand
about a fortnight later. Another of the
early flowering section is M. purpurea or obo-
vata, but it does not attain the dimensions of
even a small tree, seldom exceeding 6 feet in
height. The Cucumber Tree (M. acuminata) is
regular in outline when young, but spreading
when old. The leaves of this kind measure from
6 inches to 10 inches long; they are bright green
and produced in abundance, but the greenish
yellow blossoms are not very ornamental. It may,
indeed, almost be said to depend wholly upon
its foliage for effect. Even in that case it is a
handsome lawn tree. M. auriculata and
macrophylla seldom do well, but where they
succeed their very large leaves and handsome
flowers render them noble trees. Contrary to
the two last-named species, another very large-
leaved kind (M. umbrella or tripetala) succeeds
almost anywhere, provided the soil be not too
hot and dry. It is of free growth, openly
pyramidal in habit, and about June, when in
flower, is a grand sight. The leaves are from
1 foot to 1$ feet long, disposed in a ray-like
manner around the branches, while the prin¬
cipal shoots arc terminated by white open
flowers 6 inches or 8 inches in diameter. For a
damp spot M. glauca is well suited, as it thrives
best under such conditions. It reaches a height
of 10 feet or 12 feet, and is often shrub-like in
habit, but at times assumes the shape of a small
tree with irregular spreading branches, and
during summer produces for a long time its
white fragrant blossoms, each about 3 inches in
diameter. The evergreen M. grandiflora is
better suited for lawns in the south and west of
England than in colder districts, where it is apt
to be injured. An old tree of it on one of the
lawns at Kew has stood many years, and occa¬
sionally flowers freely. The golden blossoms of
The Laburnum have no rival as regards
colour, besides which Laburnums will thrive in
almost any situation, and in an open spot form
handsome trees. Another of the Leguminosie,
| and one seldom seen on lawns, is Sophora
I japonica, I have seen thriving specimens of this

— i tin 1 •_"L. if. _ _J_Til-

Ash (Fraxinus Ornus) reaches a height of in
30 feet to 40 feet, but even when about a
these heights and in a thriving condition it a
handsome tree, and one that does well in mo
soils. The flowers resemble greenish-wk/
plumes, and are produced in great profnao
The red-flowered Chesnut (JEsculus rabiesrf
makes a handsome isolated specimen. Becd
the colour of the flowers the tree is less inn
and the foliage darker than that of the emm
Horse Chesnut, but among large trees this hi;
is unsurpassed when in bloom. Paulowniai
perialis, though its leaves are large and fine a
its panicles of Foxglove-like flowers prehy, k
one great drawback, and that is during sev?j
spring frosts the blooms perish while still is tl
bud state ; when in full flower, however, i:
very handsome. Catalpa ayringariolia baa
marked resemblance to the Paulownia wheas
in bloom, each being of open tree-like fob
with stout but comparatively few branches. ?
flowers of the Catalpa, however, more meri
those of the Horse Chesnut than thePuta:;
although on large branching panicles foe tees
of the latter. The Catalpa flowers abess J£;
and both it and the Paulownia ■ lib a p,
deep soil. The Snowdrop Tree tflale
tetraptera) is a slender-growing tree, r<
horizontal branches, from the br&nchkj
which depend clusters of white Swtdr
like flowers. The lightness of ita appear
and the profusion with which, in the m
of May, the blossoms are borne, stamp hi;
distinct and ornamental tree. The StagVb
Sumach (Rhus typhina) often ai$uE«
character of a small tree crowded with ten;
irregular branches. Its large pinnate Is
render it distinct in character, more parted
about the end of July, when each shoo; it
minated by a dense clustered spike of ds*
purple flowers. Koelreuteria paniculate in.
tree, in general character somewhat like a ?j
but of more slender growth. It is esre~ j
valuable from the fact of its flowering ten
the end of the summer, when the bulk of;'
ing trees is out of bloom.

Fine Leaved Trees.

The, Maple* (Acer ).—We have in this fi*
a great variety of trees with fine
Amongst them may be noted the itripedfor
Maple (A. striatum or pennsylvanicnaj» !
20 feet or so in height, with three-lobed lei
and beautifully striped bark. The Silver ^
Maple (Acer dasyearpum), a large
growing tree, with spreading branches^-
lobed foliage, silvery white Deneath,if*-**?
ornamental. Of this there are $evKi
of American origin, among thembasg^
phyllum, laciniatum, and laciniatun
which I have only seen in a small
as such they are beautiful. The red
rubrum) is very handsome in early spring-^ 1
the expansion of the leaves, as the du&n
small crimson flowers are produced in F
fusion as to impart quite a feature to the -
The young leaves are also bright in colour, i
the decaying foliage in autumn becomes ts.
with red. This tree is too large formal 1*
and is better adapted for the park or p < ^
grounds. Acer platanoides Schwiedl^
variety of the Norway Maple, and, like ^
vigorous growing tree, but instead ^
normal, green foliage, the leaves of tto*
are crimson when expanding, Jo* *

f reener as the season advances. The^I
laples are beautiful, but, as at preset •
gardens, merely shrubs. I have,
plant of A. polymorphum atrotrarpnf^/
growing away freely, and the admi^ 2 L
who see it. • vi

The common Birch (Belula oW ^
distinct from other trees, and f® 1 ®
some isolated specimen when some •

40 feet high. Among varieties of l * ,
cut-leaved, the purple-leaved, and a 1 ^
weeping kinds, known as pendufo
pendula Youngi, both of which a _
distinct from each other. Of the J .
Beech (Fagus sylvatica) there are
leaved, weeping, and purple-leaved
the last of which varies greatly ®
when a good form is obtained and > .

planted, it is a very effective tree. /■ '

i adiantifoiia is distinct in foliage, >

general appearance from n^ttree« ^ ^

uiekly destroy

I about 20 feet high, elothed to the ground with -

branches, which about August become covered j planted, and does not Soon ontgro
'with creamy white blossoms. The Flowering.space. S^veijal of-.the EItP| are ' c - 1

Jfly 5, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

195

pecially some of the weeping kinds, and
mns viminalis variegata I think the most
rfectly variegated tree that has yet come
der my observation, except it be the varie-
tod Xegundo.

AUautkui glnndulosa isa fine vigorous pinnate-
red tree quickly attaining a height of 20 feet,
] not particular as to soil. It is remarkably
adsome when studded with capsules, which
general appearance resemble the keys of
• Ash, but are larger in size. Their
oar is a bright brownish crimson, which,
ledally when the sun shines, renders them
ry attractive, but unfortunately the tree is
. often seen in a fruiting condition.

Tlu Hop Hornbeam (Ostnja vulgaris) in
ftarance resembles the common Hornbeam,

may have included a few that would be by some
considered shrubs, and have kept for a future
time a few shrubs that might perhaps be re¬
garded by some os trees. A.

11656.— Pruning 1 Berberis. —The best time
to prune a hedge of Berberis Darwinii would
be immediately after it has done flowering. It
would make good strong growths the same
season, w hich would flower freely the following
Bpring. This shrub produces its flowers on the
young wood of the previous year ; if that young
wood is cut off in the autumn the incipient
flower-buds go with it. A hedge full of young
shoots now' must not be pruned until the rfowers
drop next spring ; but the sooner it is pruned
thereafter the better.—J. D. E.

Full grown tree of AUanthus glandule*a. Height 70 feet. (Sec pj>. 193 and 194.)

P* thtf it is more symmetrical in growth,
ainers as regards the female catkins. It
“ spreading, bluntly conical head, w'hich
. thickly studded with pendulous

, ma l® catkins, but towards the end of
ujnmer the fruits become very prominent.
\ resemble very much the catkins of the
JL are produced in great profusion

j*?/ distujet character to the tree. Near
d ii roc ^ Wor k at a- large plant of this
u every year very conspicuous about the
JrI of Au g Uit «^d September. In damp
>ome of the Willows make handsome
ift 0 , . ^ the ^mon Weeping Willow
* nJ? nica ) an( * golden-barked S.
^ cut-leaved Alder also does well
. umilar conditions. Between trees and
HlJV 1 icar ? 1 y Possible draw a hard
li8t Une * *f that under th^h^o) jreO

11668.— Trees for Shading.— The common Lime
grow* as quickly os anything, and afford", from its
spreading habit, good shade. The fastest growing climber
is tho Virginian Creeper, which will cover the space
mentioned in the course of two or three seasons—that is, if
plnnted in good soil and well watered in hot weather.—
J. C. B.

Petunias. —Last year I had a fine show of
double Petunias ; but after blooming they ran
up very leggy. I took off a number of cuttings
and repotted the old roots, binding round the
inside of the pot the long stems, and pegging
them to the soil. I had some misgivings as to
the result, not having heard of snch a thing
being done ; but the outcome of my experiment
is very gratifying, as the roots have sprung
from nearly every joint, and a great show is my
regard, some of the blooms being over 3 inches
4|ross, and the colours superb.—E. L. P.

ROSES.

11622.— Tea Roses. —The best place for
them now is in the open air, choosing a sunny,
sheltered place. What you have to do at present
is to encourage them to make new wood by
watering and syringing freely in hot weather,
as well as by giving them abundance of good food,
w’hich may be in the form of liquid manure, or
top-dressings of some concentrated manure.
Clay’s Fertilizer has been proved to be one of
the best manures for Roses.— Bttlket.

11636.— Liquid manure for Roses.— Once a week
is quite sufficient to water Roses with liquid manure. Ah
good a preparation os any is a weak solution of genuine
guano ;& ^ lb. of it will moke three gallons of manure. It
is not advisable to have it stronger.—C iurlii W.

11619.— Roses in vases.— They will grow very well
in vases If well watcrod In miniiuer and well fed with
liquid manure. In the winter the vases should be
enveloped in some kind of protecting material, or when
windy frosts prevail the roots will be liable to become too
dry.-J. C. B.

11658.—Planting Roses.— This is not the proper
time of year to plant Roses, and we w ould rather wait until
mid October, for then all the old soil can be shaken out,
and the roots properly disposed in the border- If planted
now the baso of roots would have to remain intact, and in
that cose they are not likely to do so well.—J. C. B.

—— Roses may be planted out from pots at any time.
If it is done now they will grow away vigorously as soon an
they are planted. Good, moderately clayey loam, well
enriched with either cow or horse manure, answers well.
They also luxuriate in pig manure.—J. D. E.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

Calceolarias and Cinerarias. — Another
sowing of herbaceous Calceolarias should be
made, and those earliest sown must be carefully
attended to, to prevent them from gettiug
injured by slugs and other insects. A late sow¬
ing of Cinerarias may now be made in a close
frame, growing them on freely. Earlier sow¬
ings of these will requiro shifting on, as they
get pot-bound, keeping them on a cool bottom
in shady frames. Keep a sharp eye on them to
detect aphides, and fumigate at once if any of
these are seen on the plants. All plants
intended for blooming early in autumn snould
now or very shortly be in their blooming pots.
Give them liberal treatment and as much light
as possible, in order to keep their growths firm
and short-jointed. Keep them growing for
another week or two, when a freer ventilation
will help to give them more substance, to
enable them to stand a slight rest during the
month of August, which will add greatly to
their flowering capabilities during the autumn
months.

Winter flowering plants.— The stock of
plants intended for early and mid-winter work
should still he kept potted on as they require it,
using a rough rich compost to induce free growth,
which, if properly ripened during September,
will yield abundance of. choice flowers through
the winter. Crotons, Dracaenas, and fine
foliaged plants generally, will now be in good
colour, and will require extra precaution to
keep red spider from spoiling their leaves. A
large batch of the ClubMoss (Selaginella Kraus
siana) should now be pricked into small pots, to
be ready for use during winter. Amaryllises may
now be placed in a cold frame and kept close.
Keep them dry at the root, and expose them to
every gleam of sunshine, with an occasional
dewing over with the syringe to prevent the
bulbs from shrinking. This treatment for the
next two months will generally induce each bulb
to form two or three flower-spikef.

Roses. —Tea and other Roses in pots intended
to produce flowers during autumn should now
be liberally treated with manure water and
Btimulants, to get them into fine, vigorous
growth. Keep all flowers pinched off them for
another month or six weeks, when the plants
should be engaged in forming growths intended
to produce flowers. Annuals bowti in pots must
be carefully watched to prevent them from
getting overcrowded and drawn. Place them
outside .on a cool bottom, and keep them sup¬
plied with moisture at the roots, as anything
approaching drought is very detrimental to

Ferns. —Keep a moist atmosphere, water
growing plants abundaatly, dew them gently
overhead with tepid water, but ; refrain from
damping the fronds of. Gymnogrammaa, Chie- , _
lantnes, SviffTotfaer nicnIsQnSj AT

and repot any tf.jrt,

196

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 5 , 181

with roots and that are not already in large
pots. Seedling Ferns must be prickea out after
they have germinated and can be transferred
without difficulty from the seed-pans. Spores,
i.c., seeds, should always be sown as soon as
they are ripe, and young plants growing on the
fronds of Ferns should be separated and treated
as ordinary plants, or the fronds containing
them may be taken off and layered. Keep a
sharp watch over insects of all kinds, and
remove decaying fronds.

Flower Garden.

Herbaceous borders.— These will now be
gay with Lilies, especially L. album, L. tigri
num, L. davuricum, L. umbellatum, and the
early-flowering Gladiolus Colvillei; also nume¬
rous varieties of Irises with colours equal to those
of the rarest Orchids ; Aquilegias, especially A.
ccerulea and A. chrysantha ; double Pyrethrums,
with flowers as large as those of a China Aster ;
Spiraea Aruncus and the dwarfer S. Filipendula
and S. palmata. Amongst hardy plants re¬
markable for the beauty ot their foliage may be
named Ferula glauca, a noble plant for back¬
grounds, and variegated dwarf Funkias, such as
F. lutea variegata and F. ovata alba marginata,
both of which make good permanent edging
plants; in fact, there is ample material
amongst hardy flowers to have the gayest of
gardens, provided these old-fashionea flowers
were but as well-known and easily procured as
the never-ending tender plants that have of late
years excluded them.

General Work. —The ordinary routine work
of mowing, sweeping, and rolling Grass and
walks will need constant attention, as the flower
garden or shady pleasure grounds will now be
much frequented, and every endeavour should
be used to keep them in perfect order. Continue
to surface-stir all flower beds, and regulate the
growths frequently; propagate spring-flowering
plants, and sow seeds of various sorts of Forget-
me-nots ; prick outseedling Pansies, Violas, «<
and collect seed of any specially good varieties
that it may be desirable to increase. Keep
vases and rustic baskets copiously supplied -with
water, for, being usually planted thickly, they
quickly absorb a large quantity, and light
showers that only wet the surface are very
deceptive; also look well to any tender speci¬
mens plunged in pots, as evaporation on bright
days is now excessive.

Biennials and perennials.— Sufficient space
in the reserve ground should be now prepared
for the reception of the different kinds of
biennials and perennials sown some time ago.
These, as soon as they are large enough to handle,
ought always to be pricked out from 4 inches to
0 inches apart in nursery beds, where they can
remain through the winter until spring, at
which time they should be Anally planted where
they are to remain. It is a very common occur¬
rence to see the plants left standing in the seed¬
bed until they are so weakened by overcrowding
as to be ef little value. If the soil in which
they are to be planted be of a heavy adhesive
nature, it must be made lighter by the addition
of sand and decomposed vegetable matter, so
that the plants when removed in spring will
have an abundance of roots, a condition not
possible where the ground is close and imper¬
vious, but it should not be made rich by the
application of manure, as the object is not to
induce rank succulent growth, but rather that
of a compact character, such as will enable the
plants to pass unscathed through the winter,
and to suffer little or nothing whatever from
the effects of their subsequent removal.

Trees ^ and shrubs. — Privet, Hawthorn,
Holly, Yew, and other hedges may now be
pruned with the knife, but where they are not
in conspicuous positions that operation may be
done with the shears. Evergreen shrubs,
and even choice Conifers, are now being pruned
into shape with the knife. From Rhododen¬
drons, Magnolias, Azaleas, and other similar
things, the beauty of which is over, the old
flowers are being removed, and, where time can
be spared, the seed-pods are also picked off.

Fruit.

Vines. —Where Grapes are stoning and show
the slightest indication to scald, keep the inte¬
rior of the vinery in which they are as cool at
all times as a greenhouse until the stoning pro¬
cess is over, and not 3 per cent, of the berries
will be injured! ""This sealdint. %s it is termed,

Digitizes r: ^

consists in the most prominent berries becoming
soft and brown on one side, as if it had been
burnt with a hot iron; sometimes a single berry
here and there throughout the bunch is affected,
and in more severe cases the whole side of the
bunch is destroyed. Many a bunch which
promised well to begin with has through this
ueen reduced to almost nothing in a short time.
A burning sunshine is the chief cause of the
disease, for in dull, sunless weather nothing of
the kind takes place. When sufficient air
cannot be admitted, a temporary shading is
often placed over the glass outside to keep
down the temperature inside. Midsummer
Grapes are colouring fast now, and 1 inch or
2 inches more opening may be left on the venti¬
lators all night with advantage ; on mild, wet,
dull days the front ventilators should not be
kept entirely shut. Be careful to keep the
Vines from which all the fruit has been cut
perfectly clean from every form of insect.

Hardy fruit. —Train in the new growths of
Peaches and Nectarines, keep laterals on the
same growths closely stopped back, and only
retain such a number of shoots as can be
afforded space for every leaf to have full day¬
light. Pick off all blistered foliage, apply
sulphur for mildew, and syringe freely to keep
down red Bpider. Green and black fly ought
not now to be troublesome, but if they are
syringe with Tobacco water. Keep Apricots
that are fruiting well mulched with litter. The
surface roots are of more importance than those
that are deeper and more woody, and in dry
weather they quickly suffer, unless such
mulchings are given, together with plenty of
water, particularly on soils of a porous nature.
Keep the shoots well spurred in, and train
in any strong shoots that may be starting
from the base of the tree, that they may
eventually take the place of branches that are
covered with ugly spurs, or that look weak or
are affected with canker. Keep the stocks free
from suckers and hand-pick for maggots, the
presence of which is indicated by the close
curling together of the leaves. Give a final
stopping to Pears and Plums on walls, and
afterwards wash them by means of the hose or
garden engine, in order to rid them of dirt and
insects—an operation which will also water
close to the wall, where, by reason of the coping,
the rain does not reach ; also stop for the last
time espalier and pyramidal-trained trees. Keep
Currants, Cherries, Raspberries, and Straw¬
berries closely netted ; gather only when
thoroughly dry. Any of these that are intended
to keep a long time should have as much of the
spray as possible removed, to let in light and
air, to ensure quick drying of the fruit after
rain.

Melons. —Melons in frames will now be grow¬
ing fast, and must receive every attention in thin¬
ning out superfluous shoots, stopping those re¬
tained as soon as they reach the sides of the
frame ; this will cause them to throw out bear¬
ing wood. Keep up the necessary warmth in
the beds by slight linings ; these will not re¬
quire now to be so heavy as earlier in the season
when the weather is cooler, but with late
Melons in frames the beds must not be allowed
to get cold, orthe plants make little progress, and
the summer is too far advanced before the crop
comes to maturity. Woodlice are a great nui¬
sance where they exist in large numbers in
Melon pits or frames, and before the fruit
begins to ripen measures should be taken for
their destruction. They are not at all particular as
to their food ; slices of raw or boiled Potatoes, or
pieces of Apple placed in the bottom of a few
small pots, and covered with hay or Moss, will
attract them in numbers, while by looking over
and destroying them every morning, they can
be kept down so as to cause little inconvenience.
It is only where such precautions are neglected
during the advancing stages of the crop that
woodlice exist in such numbers as to do serious
mischief.

Strawberries for forcing.— Layering and
potting will now engage attention. Next to
good plants and suitable compost, which should
be dry enough to withstand firm ramming with¬
out becoming adhesive, a good site fully open
to sun and light is of the greatest importance ;
it should also be dry and free from worms by
being w’ell coated with ashes or covered with
boards. For early forcing, clean pots 5 inches to
6 inches in diameter are large enough, and for
the general crop a size larger is preferabl^,\|as |

the plants have to withstand the dryiui
fluence of powerful sun and heat through
spring months, w'hen it is hardly possilj
keep the smaller size properly supplied
water. The best compost for Strawbtrnd
strong calcareous turfy loam from aa
pasture, good rotten manure, and a sprdj
of soot. The turf should be cut and stakj
ridged in the open air some months befori
wanted for use, and the manure and soot sj
be thoroughly incorporated with it whei
weather is dry. It should then be placed
dry, open shed, or w'here it can be pm
from wet, as success greatly depends upci
state of the soil when it is wanted for u&e.

Vegetables.

Peas. —As a me^tns of retarding, in
measure, the last sowings of late Peas, so i
have them far on in the autumn, the poin
the shoots may be nipped out at the spot i
they show the first flower ; this will a
them to throw out growths at the joint? i|
down, and it also makes them more bc-iij
they will, thus treated, push two or tj
shoots in the place of one, and will delay i
cropping from a fortnight to three we««.
to the quantity produced by Peas so tm
it does not appear to have any influence el
one way or the other. The greatest enemy
Peas have is mildew, for if this once nnk-i
appearance their cropping powers are soon
If, as advised at the time of sowing, the
open airy situations were selected for the*
crops, and the rows were placed far spirt
chief measures for avoiding this troaolt
parasite have been taken ; but if they are
allowed to want water, mildew* is certaj
follow. If, therefore, the weather b« dry. |
a copious watering once & week, so *1
thoroughly soak their roots, and mfikh
ground with half-rotten manure for 2 fee
either side of the rows.

Turnips. —A good breadth of Tumipesii
now* be sown, as after this time the Ti
beetle is not usually so destructive as earli
the season. Ground that has been clear
early Potatoes, Peas, or other crops, will ki
available for these. It u ill not be neces*
dig it previous to putting in the seed, oaH
be of a very strong, solid nature, nothin* 1
gained by doing so ; in fact, when theli
fight it does absolute harm by indoors
growth of leaves rather than that of tbeli
Previous to sowing hoe the ground 2 inche i\
rake off and remove any weeds that mar <d
and sow the seeds in rows 1 foot ap&n. pit j
in enough to allow for loss from the m'i
tions of birds or the fly. Before wwing dH
the seed with red lead ; if this be properly
it will secure them from mol estate:
birds, except the greenfinch, which seen
defy any dressing that can be given toseed*4

Asparagus. —Seed-bearing severely taiea
energies of any plant, although all are not«
affected by it, but it is a waste of strengJ
allow anything to seed when the seed is uM
or not required. For this reason Am i
should have the seeds stripped off as sod
they are large enough to take hold of. Do.
allow them to get large or full grown before I
are taken off, for in that case the injury th«|
is almost complete. Go over the beds freu uei
to remove all weeds.

Cottager’s Kale. — A good space shod:!
be planted with the useful Cottager’s Ks ei
this is a most excellent vegetable, and so ha
that it w'ill stand even our severest winter*
is much better to have a good breadth of it
to grow* several varieties of similar Greens t
are not equal to it in any way. Givetkpkj
20 inches space in the rows, and allow as nnj
between each row.

Vegetable Marrow's. —Thin out
Marrows sufficiently, not allow ing them to
too much crowded, and if the situation be at
exposed, secure the shoots so that they will
be blowm about by the wind. See that they'
well supplied with water. Wanting this,
plants w'ill not bear to the end of the season

Endive. —Make a sowing of the
Endive, and also of the Green Cnrled. - J
will come in as an autumn supply, m the ph
from this Bowing w r ill not be so liable to ruj
seed as those sown earlier. Do not put the 4
in too thickly, as nearly all of them vqgetj
and are not so liable as many to suffer from,
ravages of birds qrjus^l'ts.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jvlt 5 , 1884]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

197

the ALPINE AURICULA.

"hesk sre in all respects distinct from other
luricalss ; so much do they differ from them in
ovrcr and foliage that thero can be little doubt
iey have been derived from a different parent-
re. The edged Auriculas are in all respects
arc delicate than the Alpines, and are not
lapted for culture out of doors ; whereas the
rac value of the Alpine Auricula is its perfect
aptability for culture in suitable positions out
or*. Some people talk, and even write
out the beauty of Primroses and Auriculas on
any banks in the early months of the year,
:t sunny bonks are not adapted for Auriculas,
ir yet for Primroses of any kind. If we wish
fccceed in producing a perfect development
bloom out of doors, it is necessary to obtain

what chance can it have in a border that has to
be planted with bedding stuff as well as choice
Alpines ? The verdict of those who plant out on
the “ dot ” system will be, “ The Auricula U a
miffy plant, and very difficult to manage.” I
know a border planted as I have described, and
in which Alpine Auriculas was to play a most
important part; but half of them died the first
year, and the other half have made little or no
progress. Alpine Auriculas will succeed well
in a mixed border if the soil is good and the
position suitable ; but they should be planted in
groups of a dozen plants together ; they have a
chance in this way to form a colony, and
they make most interesting and distinct
groups. As they go out of tloom alternate
groups of Phlox setacea will succeed them,

with large flowers is a vigorous growing plant
named Florence. Its flowers are of a deep
reddish maroon colour with a rich yellow centre.
One of the other varieties is Queen Victoria, it
has purplish flowers shading off to lilac purple
on the edge, with a creamy white centre. If
these two are mixed together in a group the
effect is not nearly so good as if tney were
planted separately—that is, a group of,
say, a dozen Florenco and one of Queen
Victoria. Besides the bad effect of colours
inharmoniously arranged, Queen Victoria
does not flower so early as the other, nor does it
grow so tall. Florence is a self edged flower,
and for growing out of doors these have an
advantage over the shaded - edged forms.
According to the dictum of the florists, one of

ALPINE AttllClTLAft (PRAWN AT ILFORD IN MAY LAST).

growth the previous season, and the
J “*' will not grow' well on a sunny dry bank.
k c ™jj* can be made, the north side of a bank
Network is the best place for them, or they
u sUo do well on a border that has a hedge
>0me on ^e *° ut h side, the
being to secure partial shade, without
uwe or trees overhanging the plants. They
* like a mederately clayey loam, but stiff
“ tatter than sandy loam. A stiff clay
adapted to their wants, by being mixed
p ‘^-mould, sand, and stable manure.
tASTuro.— 1 The method of planting is of
i ^portance. One way is to dot the plants
*Jt the front or second row of a herbaceous
l^ er * sod, generally, to let them take their
of doing well, which is undoubtedly very
»ome cases. An Auricula is not a „
Jr P ant at the best, and iTfSkes long, wi|h j-
treatment .to firm

and keep up the display three or four
weeks longer. The common garden Pink (Dian-
thus plumarius), the Glacier Pink (Dianthus
neglectus), and others of a dwarf type are
also fitting companions to them. We have also
planted a group where the flowers of Colchicum
speciosum will push out among the pale green
leaves. While the leaves of the Colchicum,
rising above the Auriculas in the spring, will
shade the flower trusses from hot sun in April,
they die off in June, leaving ample time for the
Auriculas to make their autumn growth. Having
decided that planting in groups is the best way
to get a good effect from our Auriculas, it will
occur to most people that there is a right and a
wrong way of arranging the plants in the groups.
The mixed system is not nearly so effective as
that of arranging the groups in one colour. On
£efenui£ to the groups of Auriculas represented
in the wood engraving, the prominent variety

the princinal properties of an Alpine Auricula
is a shaded edge, self-edged flowers being
relegated to the rubbish heap. Certainly they
are to be preferred to the self edged varieties for
pot culture, but for out of doors I prefer the
others. The double, yellow Auricula should be
classed w ith the Alpines ; it has been long in
cultivation, and succeeds w'ell as a border
flower. A group of its rich yellow flow’ers are
excellent for variety. It has been named Yellow
Prince.

Treatment after Flowering.— After the
time of flowering is past, about the end of April
or early in May—the Auricula does not rest for
very long—it starts to make its growth for next
year, and when the w'eather is dry at that
time the plants should kept moist at the
roots, and in that case they will grow vigorouslv
all throujjhj tlVer summer months._| A,Qari*fulJ
gardener will watch for the season of growth

URBANA-CHAMPArGN

198

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 5, 1884.

and the season of rest for his plants, and treat
them accordingly. If they are allowed to suffer
during the growing period for want of water
the trusses will be small and weak next year.

The choice kinds of Alpine Auriculas are very
beautiful objects when grown in pots. There
are many varieties that will not succeed well out
of doors, but they open their flowers when placed
near the glass in a cold frame. The plants do
not require large pots, 60’s and 48’s—that is, 3
and 4-inch diameter inside measure—are the best.
The potting soil should be good, turfy loam with
a fourth part of decayed manure added to it.
The plants also like good draining.

Propagating. —The method of propagating
them is by seeds and off-sets from the roots.
The seedlings give great variety and the plants
grow very freely indeed. But if we wish to
obtain a stock of any particular kind it is
necessary to divide the plants in July, and care¬
fully remove all off-sets, planting them after¬
wards in small pots, and covering them over
closely in a hand-glass or frame. Greenfly is
rather troublesome on plants that are shut up
under glass. It does not injure the plants when
they are constantly exposed to the open air, as
they ought to be in summer. J. Douglas.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 190.^

The Mulberry.

The black fruited species (Morns nigra) is the
only one commonly grown in this country. It
will thrive in any good garden soil, and though,
as a rule, it is hardy enough, yet it suffers a
good deal from frost in those extreme winters
which visit us occasionally. I never knew a
Mulberry tree to be killed outright, but the
young wood on which the fruit is borne suffers
when exposed to a very low temperature, so
that after a severe winter the Mulberry crop is
a light one. The Mulberry tree lives to a very
old age, and so long as they possess vigour
enough to make and ripen an annual growth
they bear good fruit; but they do not bear
much early in life. It is not often a Mulberry
bears much till after it has passed its twentieth
year, unless some dwarfing system of culture be
adopted.

Propagation.

Cuttings and layers form the readiest and chief
means of increase, and of these two methods the
former is the best. The cuttings should be taken
from the upper fertile part of the trees. They
may be of any age, from the one-year-old shoots,
w'ith a heel of two-year-old wood attached, to
branches of considerable size, sawn off any part of
the tree from which a large branch can be spared.
To obtain fruiting trees early, have the cuttings as
large as possible, and plant their lower ends
firmly in a shady border, mulching the soil
around them with manure, and keeping the
soil moist always. If cuttings 3 feet or 4 feet
long, and of eight or ten years’ growth, can
be procured, fruiting trees may be obtained
in a comparatively short period. Where large
cuttings cannot be had, we must fall back on
the young wood, with a heel of that which is
older attached. These should be cut about
8 inches long, and be planted firmly in row's 10
inches apart, and 3 inches apart in the row's,
burying all except the two uppermost eyes,
mulching between the rows with old leaf-mould,
or something of a non-conducting nature, for
their shelter, and to retain the moisture around
them in dry weather. The autumn is the best
time to make and plant the cuttings, but if they
cannot be planted so early, they must at least
be cut off, trimmed, and laid in the soil as soon
as the leaves fall; the work of healing and cal¬
lusing the wound preparatory to the formation
of roots w'ill then begin. The second year the
young plants may be transplanted to the
nursery row's, and be encouraged to grow into
handsome, round-headed plants, by trimming
all side branches from the main stems.

Pruning.

After the foundation of the tree has been laid,
and it has started on its course with a straight
main stem, the only pruning necessary will be to
remove a badly placed branch when required,
and to keep the growth evenly balanced ; and,
in fact, this is all/tKfe pruii?ng_rtqiyred all
throbgh its career, ^srt cjt/ui t ky l|cfcfae on the

young wood, it is necessary to keep this fact
steadily in view, and in any pruning that may
be required, always take care that plenty, of
young w’ood is left on.

Where to Plant Mulberry Trees.

Select some cosy, sheltered nook on the law r n,
and either plant in groups of three or four, or a
single specimen if no more are needed. But a
tree so distinct in character and appearance
deserves more attention than it receives, and
its fruit in summer are very refreshing. The
Mulberry should always be planted on turf,
as the fruit, when ripe, will drop, and if it falls
on the bare earth it becomes soiled and useless;
and usually it is the finest fruit which drop
first. But on the soft, clean grass no harm w'ill
happen to the fruit if it does fall. The Mulberry
never really wears out in the ordinary sense of
the w’ord. Old trees bear the finest fruit, and I
have never knowrn or heard of a Mulberry tree
dying from old age, and I know of several of
very great age, which are held together by bands
and tires of iron, and still bearing good crops
of fine fruit.

The Barberry.

The red-fruiting, stoneless Barberry is fre¬
quently grown for its fruit, which makes an
excellent preserve; but the habit of bearing
stoneless fruit does not appear to be always a fixed
principle, as occasionally the plants raised flom
the stoneless variety produce .fruit with stones,
especially when the plants are young. When
steadied by age the fruit generally are stone¬
less. They are easily propagated from suckers
or offsets, which should be planted in the nursery
for two or three years to get strong. These
Barberries are very ornamental when planted in
groups on gently rising knolls, within view of
walk or drive. The birds are fond of their
fruit, so all who wish to encourage young birds
in their grounds should plant Barberries. A
little thinning and shortening back is occasion¬
ally necessary in order to keep up a good supply
of young wood, which bears the finest fruit.
The pruning should not be done in a formal
manner, but should be limited to the cutting
out a branch here and there, with the view of
encouraging a young shoot to spring from its
base, and keep up a constant renewal. The
Barberry may also be increased by layers in
autumn. For certain positions plants trained
as standards are very ornamental, and this can
easily be accomplished by limiting the plants to
one stem, and permitting no other growth to
break but what starts away from the head.

The Quince.

Not only is the fruit valuable for flavouring,
but the tree is well worth planting for its orna¬
mental appearance, and a specimen or two will
tend to give character and variety to the lawn
or ornamental shrubbery. Standards, with
straight stout stems, 6 feet high, should be
selected. Propagation is by cuttings or layers.
The former should be taken in autumn, 6 or
8 inches long, and be planted in a shady border.
Bury all the wood, except the topmost eye, and
press the soil firmly about them. Mulch with
old leaf-mould, or cocoa fibre, between the rows,
which should be about a foot apart, and water
in dry weather. Under such treatment most of
the cuttings will grow. Layers will root in
about a year, and may then be detached from
the parent plant. Both the layers and cuttings
will require a course of culture and training in
the nursery to prepare them for final removal to
their permanent situation.

Pruning.

The branches must be kept thin and regular,
and to this extent pruning is necessary; but, other¬
wise, not much knife work is required. A very
small amount of annual attention will suffice; and,
even if nothing has to be cut out, this annual
overlooking \vnen the leaves fall should be
given, as a stitch in time saves nine. There
are several varieties, but the best for culinary
use is the Portugal Quince,

The Medlar. *

These are not much grown, but as they do
not grow to a large size, and will not, therefore,
occupy much space, where variety has any
value a tree or two should be planted. There
are several varieties, but the Dutch Medlar
produces the largest fruit. Standard trees only
should be planted, and as they are not unorna-

mental they may occupy a position in the
shrubbery, ornamental plantations, or on the
lawn. The fruit is not usable until decay sets
in, and they are usually allowed to hang on the
trees till late in autumn, and are then stored
for a short time. Medlars are raised from seed,
and the particular varieties are grafted on the
soedlings.

E. Hobday.

INDOOR PLANTS.

SUMMER TREATMENT.

Chinese Primulas. —The amount of enjoy¬
ment derivable from these fine flowering plants
through the winter almost entirely depends
upon the treatment they get during the next
three months. Although comparatively of easy
culture, there are a few duties connected there¬
with, which, if neglected, cannot fail to deprive
the grower of that rich floral feast which re¬
wards his efforts when properly directed.
There is no plant in cultivation that better
rewards the necessary expenditure of time and
labour than this, the pleasure obtained being
exactly in proportion to the time and skill lie-
stowed on the plants during the time of growth.

I Some like to retain a portion of their plants
which have flowered. They make a great show
if properly treated. In the first place they
must be carefully watered, never allowing the
soil to become dust dry, which causes the
tender hair-like roots to perish ; but at the same
time only giving water when absolutely needful
—just enough to keep the foliage from wither¬
ing. A very important point is never to wet *
the foliage—not a drop of water should go on it
if possible—the object being to give them a
complete rest until late summer. By moisten¬
ing overhead they are brought into active j
grow’th, and throw up their flowers in late
summer and autumn, just the time when they
are not wanted to be in bloom. About the
middle of August, previously allowing them to
nearly dry out, the greater portion ol the old
soil should be shaken away, repotting in suit¬
able compost. Water carefully until the pot*;
get fairly full of roots, and then more liberally,
taking care that they never become quite dry.

Young seedlings. —Those who may have
been late in sowing, and whose plants are still
in the pans into which they were pricked off',
should lose no time in getting them into small
^ots. For the first potting, the soil should be
fane and very sandy, and should consist of two -
thirds leaf-soil and one-third fibrous loam, as
the main point in the earlier stages of growth is
to lay a good foundation by exciting fibre for¬
mation. Once get a good body of fibrous rootii,
and a strong free growth is easily ensured.
After potting, keep rather close for a few dayn,
keeping the soil nicely moist, but avoiding
saturating it. In the case of plants which
are already in small pots, do not alfirv
them to become root-bound before shifting,
but as soon as the pots are fairly filled with
roots put them into 4£-inch pots. This tin: e
they may have rather stronger food, say two-
thirds loam, if very fibrous, otherwise not
more than one half, and the remainder leaf-
mould, with a little thoroughly decomposed
manure if you have it; if not, do without it, i s
rank manure is nothing less than poison jo
Primulas. Use the soil moist, and do not prei a
the soil in hard round the roots, which do nc t
seem to possess the power to penetrate hai d
material. Quite one-fifth of silver sand shoul d n
be added to the compost, and the drainaj e % I
should be good, consisting of one large cracl ,
half-an-inch of small pieces, and a little fibrn s ij
material thereon. With these precautions the e : j
is but little danger of stagnation, and waterm; y 1 e (
given liberally when the plants are in full growl h
without fear of injuring the roots. There is i o ^
place so good as cold frames for Primulas, a <
there they can be placed upon a cool ash bottor , ^
continually ascending moisture from w'hich s ^
grateful in hot weather, and when the nights a e v
w'arm they can be fully exposed to the moist ai i
invigorating atmosphere w'hich then prevail
Night air has a wonderfully strengthening ai d *
stimulating effect upon all plants that are expos* d t J
to it. A bath of night dew is worth a dose *f
liquid manure. Primulas may be grown e : ^

cellently well ill an ordinary greenhouse, wi h Q
| a l ittl^cxtra pain s Si damping down the pat ,s h
’ana atefge “to promote a growing atmosphere; but |

ulT 5, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

199

iot forget that the foliage muat very rarely be
ted. In very hot weather a sprinkling ovcr-
l in the afternoon may be given ; but in a
iral way the moisture rising from the soil is
bey need. On hot days a little shade from
o’clock to three o’clock is beneficial. By
riding to these few simple rules fine specimens
• 1* had by winter.

yf . itl , J. C.

1618.—Preserving plants in winter.—

aniums and others of the hardier greenhouse
its may be preserved in winter in a room or
dn'cellar you mention, provided you can
ait air as well as light to them. Take the
tings as early in the season as you can, strike
min the open ground, and when well rooted
them singly in 4-inch pots, place them on
1 partly bury the pots in fine ashes, to keep
voims and to protect the young roots. Get
£ rough wooden trays, the sides just the
;ht of the pots, raised about 16 inches from
ground and sloping to one corner, where
must make a hole to drain off what runs
ugh the pots w’hen watering. Put a pan to
hthe water, to keep the floor dry. About
middle of September bring the plants in, and
» them into the trays, where you will keep
n till the spring, giving only just enough
er to keep them alive, and every day on
ch there is neither frost nor rain keep the
lews open till half an hour before sunset.—
i

629. -Treatment of Geraniums.— In
end of July or August take off cuttings with
an horizontal cut close under a joint, insert
j in pots filled with very sandy soil, make
i firm in the soil, and keep them close to
round the edge of the pot, give them a
le watering, and put in a shady place for
w days, when they may be exposed to the
ther. Or you may first put them in a border
lace of pots, but in either case pot off as soon
rated; next spring put them into 6-inch or
ch pots in good loam, leaf-mould, and some
1; and for final potting use some cow-dung
urcsix months old. They should be stopped
donally, and when out of bloom place them
>f doors to ripen the wood, then in August
back to within about three eyes of the old
I, and you can utilise the trimmings for a
lot of cuttings. When cut back, water
er sparingly until they start again, and,
a the young shoots are 1 inch long, pot them
rts two sizes smaller than those they were
eiore, by shaking out a lot of the old soil,
trimming some of the roots. Take them in
fcmber into the house and keep them rather
tutil spring, when the same routine is to be
aa with the cuttings. I grow them
*t successfully by the above routine.—
arlie'W.

1621 -Cyclamens after blooming.—

bloom is over you should plunge the
•to a rather shady border, leave them there
** they commence to grow again, then take
ffl U P» turn them out of the pots, remove
4 old soil you can without injuring the
4 and repot in a mixture of loam, leaf-
dd, and some silver sand ; rotted manure
1 be added with advantage, and cover the
D wly half its depth. By following the
'■c you should succeed well. They are rather
Hwsome to raise from seed; you would have
fait two years or more before getting them
•^looming size, and I think it too Tate for
% seed now.— Charlie W.

Seed may be sown from now till
^ in a cold frame or greenhouse. The
. thus obtained will not bloom next
but will make good specimens the
owing year if grown along freely next
fln .’ er : Well drain a 6-inch pot, and fill
Jthin \ inch of the rim with two parts
and one of loam, adding quite one-
°f the whole of silver sand. Make the
‘*? ce bnn and level, water before sowing, and

I 1 * seed with fine soil. If the soil is

nicely moist the seeds will germinate in
1 six weeks. The pot should be placed
r £ handlight, or if in a frame a pane of
should be laid on it, and no sun allowed
lme on it until the young plants appear.
n they have made two leaves, prick
' ou t a dozen together" th 6-inch pojs
ts that [have bloomed fcoidd Ihc v
( ^benthe soil is dry, anti—abbut th

week in July shake away ail the old soil, and
repot in turfy loam and leaf-soil, in equal parts,
with plenty of white sand in it, giving good
drainage. Place in a frame or greenhouse, and
water very moderately, until they arc well
started into growth. Up to the middle of Sep¬
tember do not let the sun shine on them, and in
hot, dry weather syringe twice a day. Watch
carefully for greenfly, and, should any appear, at
once dust with Tobacco powder. Give plenty
of air in fine weather, but avoid draughts, and
from the latter end of September move them to
face sunshine, so that the leaves get strong and
of good substance. Always leave air on at
night, varying the amount according to the
weather.—J. C. B.

11661.— Propagating Heaths.— They can
be propagated readily from cuttings, which
should dc taken off at a joint, and they ought to
be between 3 and 4 inches long. Drain the pots
well, and fill them to within an inch of the rim
with sandy peat, and then put on the surface an
inch of white sand. Insert the cuttings firmly
in this, and plunge the pot in another one, fill¬
ing up the space between with sand. A bell-
glass should be placed over the cuttings, with
the rim resting on the sand. The cuttings form
roots best when the pots are placed on a shelf in
a shady part of the greenhouse. The bell-glass
should l>e wiped daily. They may be eight
weeks or more before they form roots.—J. D. E.

11613.—Winter-flowering Begonias.—
The proper treatment is to cut them in rather
hard in April, and when they have made a
little growtn shift them, but as it is now so
late we would merely prime them in slightly,
and if pot-bound, shift them in a month’s time.
Encourage them to grow by slight shade from
hot sun and frequent syringings in hot weather,
giving plenty of air on fine days and a little at
night, with abundance of air in September.—

11596.— East Indian Orchids.— These
require a higher temperature than the generality
of this tribe of plants, and a large amount of
atmospheric moisture when making their growth.
During the winter they must nave at least
60 degs. by night, and from 65 degs. to 70 degs.
by day; these temperatures to be increased
from 5 degs. to 10 degs. from March onwards.
In other respects the treatment is about the
same as that accorded to the other sections;
that is, they must be shaded from hot sun, have
air admitted to them on fine days, syringing
once or twice a day in hot weather, well damp¬
ing down the paths and stages, to ensure a
growing atmospere.—J. C. B.

11581.—Agapanthus.—We do not think it a good
plan to put plant* in pans in tho open air, because during
a period of rainy weather the root* are apt to become too
clogged with moisture. All that you have to do is to water
once or twice a day in hot weather, and if some liquid
manure is given twice a week it will materially aid the
growth and flowering of the plants.—J. C. B.

11607.— Veronicas.— They may either be grown in
pots or be planted out in the open ground, lifting them the
l middle of September. By the latter plan they grow’ much
stronger and yield more bloom. Plant them in the full
sun, water well, and sprinkle in hot, dry weather. They
bloom in the autumn, and help to make a greenhouse gay
up to December.—J. C. B.

11657.— Blue Abutllon.— In reply to this enquiry I
may mention that Abutilon vitifolium was figured in The
Garden last year. The colour, as there shown, wns a
beautiful Bhade of lavender. Plants may be obtained of
Messrs. Rodger McClelland and Co., Newry, Countv Down.
—W. T. T. ___

VEGETABLES.

NOTES ON CAULIFLOWERS.

All who can call to mind the advent of the
Walcheren variety must freely admit that
Cauliflowers have been greatly improved, and
the gain has not been wholly in one direction,
for tne season of use has also been extended.
The old purple and white Cape varieties, that
twenty-five years ago were standard kinds for
autumn use, are now seldom seen. They have
been superseded by varieties of better quality,
and which come into use at the same time.

The Walcheren may be described as an early
summer and late autumn kind, but is best in
summer, that is to say, when sown in early
spring it comes into use in July and August.
It is, however, not always satisfactory, being
liable to produce very deformed heads, but
when in good form none beats it. We use
F it at two distinct seasons, viz., early summer
and late in autumn ; for the first we sow about

the end of August, winter the plants in hand •
lights or frames, and plant them out in March.
These come into use about the middle of June,
and last for a fortnight or more. For late
autumn and winter use we sow about the middle
of June, but are careful to give the young
plants every possible chance of growing quickly.
We either sow in a temporary frame or on a
warm border where the seedlings come fre¬
quently under the eye, and can have the requi¬
site attention in tho way of watering. About
the end of July the plants are large enough to
be planted out. They are then put into ground
on which early Peas grew, and which is always
manured in winter for the Peas. It therefore
only requires forking over and the hard
lumps broken to pieces to iriake it suitable
for the Cauliflowers. Drills are then drawn
3 inches deep. We prefer planting in drills
in summer, tor when the plants want water
it is more concentrated than when applied
on a level surface. We place the plants 2
feet apart every way, and, except that they
may want an occasional watering when first
planted, they give no further trouble, except
Keeping them free from weeds. As to coming
into use, a good deal depends upon the weather.
In mild autumns some of them will probably be
ready by the middle of October, but we never
want them so early as that, as supplies at that
time can be had from another variety. Our aim
is to get this sowing fit for use in November and
December, and it is not often that -* r e are dis¬
appointed, but we have to watch the crop
during severe frost; a few degrees does it no
harm, but when the thermometer reaches
10 degs. or 12 degs., heads large enough for
table are not safe. On the approach of frost we
go over the plantation and lift any that are
ready for use, and replant them in a bed of soil
in a pit or frame where they can be protected.

Vcitch's Autumn Giant is also a valuable
Cauliflower. When sown in September it
succeeds the Early London and Walcheren,
sown at the same time, thus carrying on the
supply until the early spring sowings come into
use. It is also a valuable exhibition kind when
the heads are obtained from September-sown
plants, but with me it is useless as a summer
variety when obtained from sowings made
early in spring under glass. I find it comes in
admirably in July from September-sown seed,
and in September and October from sowings in
the open ground in April. One great fault of
this variety is its tendency to produce blind
plants, or rather, I should say, the plants
go blind after they are planted out, and the
number that do this in dry weather is some¬
times alarming. For delicacy of flavour and
the whiteness of its heads it is unsurpassed.

Dwarf Erfurt .—This is a summer variety of
great excellence. It is dwarf and compact, and

S roduces fair-sized heads of good colour and
avour. If the seed is sown on a warm south
border, where the soil is rich, any time between
the 1st and 15th of April, and otherwise well
cared for, It will come into use in August.
Being a dwarf grower, it does not require so
much room as other sorts. A distance of
20 inches apart every way is ample space for it.
It is not a desirable kind to sow in the autumn
to furnish a supply for early summer use, as it
is rather tender.

Early London .—In what way some of the so-
called new kinds differ from this I cannot say.
Having tried most of them, I must confess that I
cannot sec any difference. However, I have no
wish to deter anyone from growing new sorts. I
can, however, with confidence assert that Early
London is not easily beaten. Tho time for sow¬
ing to furnish a supply of plants to stand through
the winter under tne protection of handlights or
in pits or frames will vary according to the
locality. In the west of England I find the first
week in September to be quite early enough,
but farther north, probably a fortnight earlier
will not be too soon. This variety is a vigorous
grower, and in a good rich soil can be grown to
a large size. As a summer variety, sown in
April, I do not consider it equal to the Dwarf
Erfurt.

Stadtholder .—Before Veitch’s Autumn Giant
was introduced this was my favourite sort for
use during August and September. In order to
secure a supply for the first-named month I used
to sow on a gentle bottom heat early in March,
and nurse on the plants in boxes until they could
be planted out. theeju we obtained a

‘200

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 5, 1884.

fine supply of magnificent heads. A second
sowing should be made in the open ground
about the middle of April, the produce from
which will turn in for use in September. This
variety is hardly so self-protecting as some ; it
is therefore necessary to watch the heads as
they expand, or strong sunshine may discolour
them. In other respects it is a very desirable
kind to cultivate for late summer use. In the
way of

Cultivation there is little more to be said.
It may, however, be of some service to the inex¬
perienced to say that the Cauliflower can onlv
be successfully grown in a rich, deep, well-
stirred soil; and it is one of those subjects that
do not object to fresh manure if well incor¬
porated with the soil. J.

Good Lettuces. — I differ from the writer
of this article on this subject in Gardening,
May 17th. Early in March I purchased fifty
Lettuce plants about 2| inches long. I planted
them against a south wall in refuse soil from
the waste heap which I carried out for the pur¬
pose, composed of waste soil, rotten weeds, and
putt dung, with the least sprinkling of very fine
ashes in it. This I put on the ordinary border
10 inches deep. I put them there because I had
tried them everywhere else and failed, and they
are now splendid, equal to what they would
charge you Id. a-piece for at least; they cost
me 8d. the fifty, so that I think the transplant¬
ing is not the cause of failure, but the soil and
situation, at least so I find it, or else bad seed.
—The Oracle.

Spinach and its substitutes. — The
writer on this subject (page 157) might have
added to other substitutes Chenopodium Bonus
Henrietta (Good King Henry), which is used in
some of the eastern counties—a perennial plant,
I believe a native of England, and sold by some
of the nurserymen in that part of England. Not
being myself a Spinach eater, I cannot speak
from personal knowledge ; but my family—at
least such of.^hem as like Spinach—do not seem
to find any difference in it from the true Spinach.
-W. D. Paine.

FRUIT.

Strawberry plants not blooming.—
Last year I planted 12 dozen runners taken
from bearing plants ; about 3 dozen of these
have not bloomed this season. Can any of
your readers inform me how this is to be
accounted for, and whether, if I allow these

E lanta to remain, there is a chance of their
earing fruit next year, or whether I ought to
take them up and put fresh runners in their
places ?—J. B.

11651. —Peach leaves blistered. —Blister
on Peach leaves is caused by cold. This year
the weather was warm at the time the leaves
were forming ; afterwards it was excessively
cold ; just the conditions when blister is most
prevalent. There is no cure for it. It can be
prevented by protecting the leaves by covering.
The worst leaves may now lie removed, their
removal will cause the production of fresh leaves
which will not now be affected, as the weather
will not be cold enough to cause it so late in
the season. The young leaves will also curl up
if they are attacked by the black aphis. Syring¬
ing with soft soapy water or dusting with
Tobacco powder will destroy them. Two or
three applications may be necessary.—J. D. E.

11622.— Melon culture. —The female blos¬
som, with the young Melon at its base, is to be
left. You can fertilise it by taking some pollen
out of a male blossom on a camel-hair brush,
and dust it on the female flower, or simply pick
off a male blossom and invert it over the female
flower, and leave it there. Do not leave more
than three or four fruit on each plant, and stop
the fruiting branch one or two joints beyond the
fruit when you are sure it is set, which is known
by the fruit swelling; two main shoots is
enough for each plant. When you get your
fruit set, nip off all others on the plants, and do
not let them ramble when once the fruit begins
to swell.— Charlie W.

11642.—Ants in Peach-houses. —T
following plan is by far the best I have ev
tried for extirpating ^nts, and by its means
always get rid of thfse pe|fS| h'ojj ” “

^jdmerous

—Find out their runs, and pour boiling water
into them twice in the course of a week. This
will generally exterminate them ; but when they
have formed runs about the roots of plants this
remedy cannot be applied, and then the best way
is to place some inverted flower-pots here and
there where they abound. If the soil is
sprinkled round the pots now' and then they
w'ill form their colony in the pots, and are then
easily carried away, eggs and all. I have by

S ersevering entirely extirpated strong nests from
ow'er borders.—J. C. B.

Strawberry mats.—I send you a sample
of our Strawberry mats, as I see you recom¬
mend long straw to be placed betw'een the row’s
of Strawberries. These mats are made by a
charitable institution, called the Blackrock
Straw Factory, which gives employment to
poor girls of good character. They were tried
with great success last season. They are sold at
3s. fid per gross. They are placed under the
trees, either between the rows or crosswise,
in the form of a triangle, with the plant
growing in the middle. The slugs collect
underneath the rough side of the mats, and
are easily destroyed, while the fruit is pro¬
tected from them, and kept clean. We sold
a great quantity last year, and they keep
several seasons with care.—[These mats are
made of coarse straw, held together with twine.
They are 18 inches long and 5 inches wide, and
doubtless answer the purpose for which they are
intended perfectly. They are of a handy size,
and only require to be made known to be largely
used.—E d.]

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11635.— Lady-birds and greenfly.— It

is the larvae of the lady-bird that eats the green¬
fly, but you must not rely upon the natural foes
of insect pests to destroy them. The infested
shoots should be dusted with Tobacco powder,
repeating the operation at intervals of two or
three days, until the fly is got rid of, or they
may be syringed with soft soap, dissolving it in
hot water, and using it at the rate of three
ounces to the gallon. They will require to be
syringed several times.—J. C. B.

11652. — Rose houses. — A span-roofed
house is certainly the best form for Rose
culture. A medium-sized house w’ould be 30
feet long and 12 feet wide, 2 feet of brickwork
at the sides and ends, with 3 feet of upright
glass sashes, on which should be fixed the
rafters and glass lights, at an angle of 45 degs.
Six climbing Roses would be sufficient to plant
on each side. The path would be in the centre,
with side beds on which to stand the Roses in
pots. They will do without artificial heat.—
J. D. E.

half afterwards. It buried itself at the begin*
ning of the winter under a heap of stable litter,
and we did not see it again until the spring,
when it unfortunately ventured out, tempted
by a very brilliant sunny day. At night we
had a very severe frost, and our tortoise was
frozen to death. They are strictly vegetarians,
and will not eat slugs or any kind of insect.—
Nil Desperandum.

- Replying to the inquiry of “G. D. T. P." in

Gardening for June 21st, the best food for a tortoise is
bread and milk, which must be clean and fresh, and
Lettuce leaves. They are very fond of warmth.—G. J. F.

-The only food a tortoise requires is bread and milk.

It is very fond of all kinds of fruit. I knew one who had
lived in the same garden twenty-five years ; it burrowed
during winter under the same tree, followed the gardener,
and would come when called.—E. D.

11604.—Weeds in gravel walks.— Seven pounds
of arsenic, 31b. of soda, boilod one hour ; the mixture, made
up to 80 gallons and applied with a watering can about
May, will keep gravel perfectly free of w-eods for two years.
The above quantity is sufficient for about _250 square
yards.-S. P. S.

11664.—Cyclamen.— The right designation of the root
stock of this plant is a cortn ; a Hyacinth root is a bulb,
and a Dahlia or Potato root is a tuber.—J. D. E.

11670.— Plalntains on lawns. -Get some of Watson’s
lawn sand and use it according to direction, or you may
cover each crown with salt, which will destroy them,
although in some instances more than one application will
be necessary.—J. C. B.

Decayiso Flowers.—S hould the remains of flowers of
Rhododendrons and other flowering shrubs be removed
immediately after flowering?-^/. U.— Yes, it benefits the

S lants to do so.- R. N. Thompson. —Send flowers to

[essrs. Canned and Sons, Swanley, Kent, and ask their

opinion of them.- Nelson .—Your garden wants a large

quantity of good manure worked into it; also turf from
road sides, and similar material. Consultagood gardener

in the neighbourhood.- Elsie.— Mr. Boiler, Kensal New

Town, Middlesex.- A. L .—We do not recommend trades¬
men or their wares.- Mr. P. F. —The stalks of the

Strawberries appear to have been eaten off by mice.-

Enquirer .—“ The Kitchen and Market Garden,” published
by Crosby Lockwood and Co., would probably suit you.

Names Of plants.— E. H. Cozen*.— Hardy, Trades-

cantia vlrginica.- F. N. G.— Iris pallida.- T. S. —

Coccoloba platyclada. It is not a Fern.- R. B. S . —

Appears to be a Fennel.- M. R. —Seems to be Epipactis

latifolia.- A. A. ll.—Vie cannot name the Fern from an

immature frond. Have you any with spores on the back ?
If so, please send one, and we will endeavour to name it.
-S. A .—Berberis vulgaris. IF. R. A'.— Kalmia lati¬
folia, a hardy shrub.- -J. C. Turner .—Barbaras vulgaris

fl.-pl.- Somerset .—Please send again ; too much withered

to name.— R. T. S .—Campanula muralis.- E. R. Phare.

—Please send again, and a better specimen.-C. J.

Garillez .—Appears to be Linaria Cymbalarin, but we

cannot name from leaves only.- R. IF. Green. —1,

Orobus lathy roides; 2, Tragopogon (species); 3, too much

withered.-IF. Robinson .—Viburnum plicatum.-■ J .

Briggs. — Hymenophyllum demissum.- If. C. — A,

Species of Lathyrus (send again); B, Dianthus prolife r;

C, Dianthus comius ; D, Dianthus plumarius.- Kirkby .—

Symphytum osperrimum ; 2, Campanula glomerata ; 3.

Species of Potentilla.-IF. H. H .—Platyloma rotundi-

folium.- lolanthe. —1, Asplenium bulbiferum ; 3, Aspi-

dium angulare ; 4, Pteris cretica albo-lineata; 5, CrateBguw

tanacetifolia- Wakefield.— Please send better specimens.

iVf. No plant enclosed.- E. J. Jarman .—Sorry v©

cannot oblige you. See notices to correspondents.

QUERIES.

11647.— Watering plants. —It is certainly
better to water in the evening in summer time,
especially in hot weather, as the soil remains
cool and moist through the night, and this is
the ordinary practice where plants in pots are
largely grown. But in winter the very con¬
trary is practised, it being the custom to water
about 10 a.in., as then the needs of each plant
can be better judged of, and superfluous aamp
dries off by night. These rules apply to all
plant structures.—J. C. B.

11663. — Killing’ snails. — I have found
chloride of lime a most effectual and humane
method of destroying snails, slugs, &c. I put
about 3 pints of water into a bowl, and mix a
good handful of lime with it. I go round my
garden when dark (having a small lamp with
me), and destroy them almost instantly by
simply dropping them in the bowl as I collect
them. It would be better if the garden be
watered first, as it draws them from their
haunts.—W. R. P. f Guildford.

11662.— Food for Tortoise. —I kept two for
some time. I gave them Lettuce, of which they
were fond, Watercress, and Dandelions. When
Lettuces were not obtainable, I have seen them
some times eating bread and milk. I kept mine
in a warm stone kitchen for a year, and -when
we removed to a new house I turned them out
on a lawn. One was lost shortly after, we
believe it strayed into a neighbour’s garden,
but the other one lived for about a year and a

Rules for Correspondents. —A ll communicatu rta
for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on true
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Lett f»
relating to business to the Publisher. The name a ut
address of the sender is required, in addition to any n< m
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Quer em
should always bear the number and title of the aw ry
answered. When more than one Query is sent each sho* let
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardkkino going to press a considerable time before the c ly
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and urn-
munications the week they are received. Queries u>C
answered should be sent to us again
Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers o ily
can be named at one time, and this only when g orf
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name vane ies
of florist* flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums f AzaU z.v, ,
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist i ha
has the means of comparison at hand. Any commun ux-
t ion respecting plants or flowers sent to name should alw ,y» ^
accompany the parcel.

11689. -Disease in Gloxinias.— I have a spier lid ^
lot of Gloxinias in a Cucumber house. When they b< fin >
to show bloom the leaves get brown spots undernet th, <
which spreads all over the plant*. I shall be plea.* I if j
someone will say what is the cause of this disease, and I ow *
I can get rid of it— A Constant Reader.

11690.— Strawberries inPots in open grouj d \
—I am experiencing a good deal of annoyance bv » iw t
taking my fruit just as it riperfs, and I have lust thou .
to ask if anyone has ever tried growing the plants in f *t«, I
and burying them half the depth of the pot. It seem to a
me it would be a means of keeping the trusses of frui off i
the ground by hanging them over the sides of the po ; it
would prevent your Jobbing gajrdener from disturbing the
roots at the usual pjriod of digging over the garden ; it
would economise tne liquid manure In the growing se ion
by confining it to the rbots of thn plants only, and not.
waste it on tb** -adjacent ground, whilst vou could pot the

URBANA-CHAIMPA1GN J

July 5, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

201

S oisitc quantity of runners as they showed themselves,

I which would receive little or no check when ultimately
pheed in position, which, with me, is at intervals of 2 feet
round the garden paths, for the convenience of ladies
gathering the fruit without getting on the ground —
Unco.

11891.—Plants dropping 1 their flower buds.—I
lave Tacsonia Van Volxemi and Passiflora Imperatrice
Lngenie, both of which drop their flower buds. They were
pUnted out in good soil in a cool house, south aspect, in
the spring of 1883. They have grown on steadily through
the winter, and are in robust health. They began to show
flower early this spring, but the buds wither and fall.
What is the cause ? The pipes have been heated w henever
the weather has been cool.—S alopienbis.

11802. — Old Currant Bushes.—I have a lot of old
Black Currant bushes which for several years have borne
very little fruit, instead of which they have made a small
hartl ball which has burst and died; they have made shoots
from the-roots. I should like to know whether it would be
best to cut the old bushes down and let the shoots grow,
or destroy the plants altogether.—E. P. Kidson.

11893.-Red Splrcsa after flowering.—Should
this be treated in the same way as the white Spiraea,
planted out of doors ?— Blakkmore.

11694. — Camellia leaves curling.— What is the
cause of Camellia leaves curling? The plant is about 6
feet high, and is growing in a border in a conservatory,
which nas the morning sun. The upper leaves touch the
^laas. Is it likely to be suffering from too much water or
too little ?—Blakemork. »

11695. — Transplanting vegetables. — I have
Savoys, Borecole, Broccoli, purple sprouting Broccoli,
Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, and summer Cabbage plants
standing where the seeds were sown, but thinned out two
or three feet apart. Is it necessary to transplant them ?

It will be most convenient to leave them where they are,
but I have been told that all the Cabbage tribe ought to
t« transplanted or they will not come to perfection.
Cabbaob Plant.

U©6._Trees for shade.— What is the best tree to
plant ior shade of fairly quick growth ? Limes I have, but
they do not seem to flourish ; also a good climber. Also
what Roses (bush) w ould grow best in a very light soil,
with subsoil of gravel, near Croydon ?—C. M. A.

H8E>7.-Arranging an herbaceous border.—
In October, 1882. I made a very nice bank for flowering
shrubs and herbaceous plants, but, knowing nothing about
gardening, I made a mistake and planted everything in a
mess—tail plants, such as crown Lilies, Larkspurs.
Poppies, &c., swamping little Cowslips, Pansies, and
small bulbs. Ought I to dig it all up and replant? Many
of the bulbs are doing well, and it seems a pity to move
them ; but the Poppies and other plants sow themsolves
all over the bank and overcrowd everything, making it look
wild and ugly. Would top-dressing in autumn prevent
these self-sown flowers from coming up?—A. E. H.

11698.-Plants after blooming.—I shall be glad if
someone will tell me what to do with such plants as
Petunias, yellow Brooms, Abutilons, Tuber Roses, and
plants of a'similar kind, in a cool greenhouse, when they
have done blooming. As quite a novice in gardening I
never know what to do with my pot flowers when their
bloom is orer. Also I should be glad of any suggestions
for summer plants for greenhouse. All the early spring I
had beautiful bulbs in flower, but since they died it has
looked dull and dreary.—A. E. H.

11099 .—Wallflowers and other hardy plants
in pota.—I wish to grow Wallflowers, Columbines, Sweet
Williams, Poppies, Pansies, Cowslips, and other similar
plana in pots in a cool greenhouse. When ought I to sow
the seed and pot the plants? Will they bloom much
before those out of doors ?—A. E. H.

11700 — Carpet plants for herbaceous border.
—Mr. Robinson, in his “ English Flower Garden,” says it
is a good plan so to cover an herbaceous border with carpet
plants as to leave no room for weeds. Will someone who
has tried this plan tell me of some carpet plants through
*hich Lilies, Dahlias, Larkspurs, &c., will push their way
and not get choked ?—A. E. H.

117Q1.—Treatment of Lilac trees.—What should
be <kme with a row of Lilac trees down the edge of a garden
about30yards long? They have (as well as the garden)
been entirely neglected for about four or five years, and
have got very wide spreading ; some of them are leaning
downwards considerably from the wind, while close to the
surface of the earth (in some cases just above) I find the
main sterns are rotted away, yet the tope are green. In
former yean 1 remember seeing an abundance of flowers
on them, but lately there have been none. I do not wish
to remove the trees entirely, as they screen our garden
from the pathway to a terrace of houses, yet I am anxious
to do something to them at a proper season, as, in their
present condition, they are unsightly. In case they were
cut hack, should I cut the thick stems, or only the thin
shoots ? Would it be well to dig those out that are leaning
[ and reset them ?— Lilac.

11702.— Fruitless Strawberry plants, — Three
. /ears since I planted a quantity of Strawberries, which
■ have grown into very fine, hcalthy-looking plants, but
Ibave not at present either borne flowers or fruit. Is there
Lay possibility of their bearing fruit another summer, or
*xe they likely to remain for ever barren ?-G. C. V.

11703.—Marguerites.— I would be much obliged for

E nxation as to the culture of Marguerites, os grown in
The plants have thick stems, and are very large ;
lowonu fine and very abundant. I have never seen
ike them in England. A single pot costs 10 francs.—

A..

04 .—Young 1 Mulberry tree.— Will any reader
v inform me what can be done for a young Mulberry
« about 10 feet or 12 feet high, which is in a very un
dthv state ? It appears as if the bark was decayed.
Jiiere are holes in the stem and branches, and I am told
1 at is canker. It has but few leaves and a good deal of
lad wood . Any suggestions as to how It should be treated
iha.ll be glad of.— Garth.

11705. — Lavender dying off. — I have several
Lavender plants out In the open, and lately Borne of them
luve begun to turn yellow'. They are coming jnto full
Llooro. Th* stems coinmcncf to f droop, ?.nd m ;omeii

Digitized by\jQOgie

__ _ jpol

tell me the cause and remedy ? The soil is nice and moist
underneath. I can discover neither insect nor parasite to
account for the deterioration.— Ibex.

11706.— Moving 1 Rose trees. -I have to move my
collection of Roses the last week in July or the first week
in August. Will someone kindly tell me the best mode of
treatment in doing so ? The}- will have to be one day out
of the ground.- Kate.

11707.— Lilium auratum.—I will bo extremely
obliged to know about two plants of Lilium auratum I
purchased lost November. Tney are 1J feet high, and in
pots out-of-doors. What treatment do they require to
bloom?— Fond One.

11708.— French culture of Asparagus.—I should
be much obliged for any information as to the cultivation
of Asparagus in France. It is very large, can be almost
all eaten, and is finely flavoured, much superior to English
grown Asparagus. In Paris it is generally sold, and not
dearer than in England.— Juana.

11709.—Yuccas.—I have a Yucca that has got very
shabby at the top, but has two large suckers at the root.
Ought I to remove these to improve the main branch, and
when ?— Harriktsham.

11710.—Carnations not blooming.—I have some
Carnations, young sturdy-looking plants with plenty of
leaves, but no flowers. Can anyone tell me the reason
there is no bloom ? —Catford.

11711.— Erica hybrida.—How shall I treat an Erica
which bloomed lately’ ?—M. F.

11712.—Double Wallflowers.—I have sowed finest
double Wallflower seed. How can I select what are
probably the double-flowered plants ?—M. F.

11713.— Fuchsia flowers fading.—I have got a
well-grown two-year-old specimen of that lovely Fuchsia,
Lucy Finnis. It was perfectly at rest last winter, but is
now in full foliage and covered with hundreds of buds.
These buds swell to a full size, partly expand, the petals go
dark and soft, and tumble off. The plant is in a large pot
in rich, sandy compost, watered thoroughly when required,
well drained, and stands in a sunny window. If any
reader will tell me the cause and remedy I shall be very-
glad.— Belmont.

11714.—Diseased Grapes— I shall be glad to be
informed what is amiss with my Grape vines. Some of the
berries shrink and flatten on one side, and the bright green
colour fades awav into a dusky drab or brown ; the Vines
were started with Are heat about the middle of February.
What can I do to stop this?—J. B. D
11716.—Greenfly on Rose trees.—I shall feel
greatly obliged by readers of the Gardening giving receipt
for greenfly on Rose trees.— An Amateur.

11716.— Plate glass and flowers.-Can any one
kindly tell uie if plate glass has a prejudicial effect on plants
in flower ?—C. D.

11717.- Globe Artichokes.—Will some reader of
Garden!no kindly inform me when to cut and cook this
vegetable ?— Globe Artichokes.

11718.— Laying out gardens.— May I inquire the
best way to lay out a cottage garden, and also the best way
to make a model of cottage garden, and materials used for
same (S. W. aspect, front of house, size 35yards by 15 yards)?
—X. L.

11719.—Bran and slugs.- During the past year I
have noticed in Gardening reference made to bran as a
means of catching snails and slugs. As I have tried it wet
and dry with very little result, will someone explain how
to use it?—H. Jones.

11720.— Hot water and aphis.—Will water at
120 degs. be prejudicial to Rose bushes, anti, if so, at
what temperature would it kill qphis and not hurt the
trees when syringed on to them ?—A. M.

11721.— Rose trees not blooming.—I have a
climbing Rose tree trained partly on a south wall and
partly on a trellis. It was planted three years ago by a
gardener, and, though growing most luxuriously, has not
flowered, nor up to the present has shown any aims of so
doing. It appears perfectly healthy. What is the cause
and where is the remedy ?— Alfreda.

11722.— Lilium auratum.— I would like to know if
it is necessary to purchase fresh bulbs of Lilium auratum
every year, the same as Hyacinths. A bulb that 1 have
produced three fine flowers last year, but there ore only
two buds on it this year.— Leicester
11723. —Neglected Grape Vines.— I have just taken
to a greenhouse, containing three or four Grape Vines.
They appear to have been very much neglected, as they
are running all over the place ; there is a good show of
fruit on them. Shall I injure them by cutting off the weak
shoots?—H. R.

11724.—Climber for wall.—I want to know of
good flowering shrub or tree that will grow on a south¬
east wall j the flowers on it must be anything but red, as
the wall is that colour. Are any of the white Jasmine
sufficiently hardy to stand the winter, as I should like a
Bweet-scented flower?— Elsie.

11725.—Fly on Pansies.— My Pansies are attacked
with a small brown fly, which causes them to wither and
dry up. Can anyone explain what this is, and prescribe a
remedy?—X. L.

11726.— Stove for Greenhouses. — I have two
greenhouses, 20 feet by 10 feet and 12 feet by 8 feet. The
flues arc so much out of repair as to be almost useless.
My landlord will do nothing, and my lease is so short that
it w’ould not be worth my while to put in hot w’ater-pipes.
Is there any moderately cheap apparatus, burning either
oil or coke, which would keep tne larger house up to
40 degs., and the other up to 60 degs., and would remain
the property of the tenant?—E. H. H.

11727.— Garden ponds and aquaria.— Will some¬
one kindly give some advice with respect to the manage¬
ment of small ornamental ponds in gardens which contain
gold fish and water plants? My experience of them covers
a period of forty years, with an interval of twenty years ;
but I find my second experience precisely like my first,
namely, a failure to keep either water clear or plants
clean. In the first place the circular pond, provided with
a fountain, was 9 feet in diameter, and was supplied from
the Kwt waterworks at Woqjwich; In the second instance

there are tw o ponds, each 16 feet by 3 feet, connected by
a 6-inch drain pipe, and supplied by the Tunbridge Wells
waterworks. Tne first is on the chalk, the second on the
sandstone ; nevertheless, the results are the same. Seldom
over twenty-four hours does the water remain clear. It
cannot be the fish, because in a small glass globe they
take a considerable time to pollute the water, w’hilst in
the ponds the water becomes turbid in twenty-four hours,
and all the plants and their leaves and stalks become
coated with an ever-thickening vegetable envelope, which
arrests their growth. Water Lilies will never flower,
although they exist. Richardia ®thiopica, planted out at
the bottom 2 feet deep, blooms fairly, and increases if the
stalks are peeled of their enveloping tubular growths
from time to time. The goldfish (thirteen in number)
seem to be in health, but they do not spawn, although
they are occasionally fed with a highly-advertised fish
meal.—X.

11728.—Stephanotis.—Is the fruit of the Stcphanotis
edible, and does the plant often fruit? We have grown
and flowered it for years, and never had fruit before this
year; now there is a fruit, only one, as large as a turkey’s
egg.— Mrs. E.

11729.— Propagating Sweet Peas.— I have a good
Swe et Pea which does not seed, but crows like Couch Grass
After several attempts I have failed to transplant it..
Which is the best way to propagate it?— Barframk.

BEES.

Swarming. —I got a swarm of bees last
June, put them into a bar-frame hive, fed them
in the autumn and again in spring according to
advice in this paper; and seeing them very
numerous in May, 1 put on a crate of supers.
It was no use, the bees would not touch the
foundation comb, though they ascended in
clusters. They swarmed on May the loth. I
hived that swarm—which was a very large one
—in another bar-frame hive, and in a few days,
seeing the bees of the first stock very active, I
took away two frames containing honey and brood
from the body of the hive, putting in a frame of
sections, thinking that perhaps they might catch
it when they would not go aloft (1 gave the two
spare frames to the swarm). All to no use.
They did not enter, but swarmed again on
May 20. A third time, on May 23, 1 united
these two swarms in one bar-frame hive, as
they were not so strong as the first. On
June 3 another swarm rose from the first
stock, which I hived in a skep. They seemed
quite settled, all clustered to the roof of the
hive, but when I looked for them about four
o’clock there was not one there. Could they
have returned to the old hive? On June fi
another swarm rose still from the old stock,
which I hived in a bar-frame. It is a rather
strong swarm; and on June 10 I noticed a
great commotion among the bees of the old
stock. I thought at first they were going to
swarm again, as they rose in the air, and flew
about here and there. Finally, a great number
made for the new hive, which I had placed
near the old one, and seemed quietly to unite
with the swarm in it, so that I had to give
them two additional frames. Can you tell me
how to stop this incessant swarming, and how
to induce tne bees in the old stock to enter the
sections ? I have put a piece of queen excluder
zinc over the case of sections—would that pre¬
vent their entering? I am afraid that if this
goes on, I shall have no honey, though my bees
are so strong.—B. M. [When once the desire
for swarming has taken possession of a colony
there is no preventing tneir doing so. The
hive was probably overcrowded, and the bees
had made preparation for swarming before the
crate of sections was put on. The only chance
of preventing the desire for swarming is to give
room liberally—both in the brood nest and
above, as the bees increase in number. But so
much depends upon the state of the weather.
In fine weather, when honey is abundant, the
bees will work in supers if there be breeding
space in the hive; but in showery weather,
when little honey is coming in, they will
swarm on account of the scarcity of food and
rapid increase of population. The old stock
will be now so depopulated that there is no
probability of any work being done in the
sections, but the strongest swarms will give
surplus honey. The sections should, however,
have been put on about three weeks after
hiving, but may still be done with every
chance of success. The swarm that rose on
June 3rd most probably returned to the parent
hive, and again issued on the 6th.—S. S. G.]
Supering. — I hived a strong swarm on the
17th May in an almost empty Woodbury bar
and frame-hive, the foundation I had ordered
not huv mg reached mo in time. 1, however havg

-CHAf

GN

202

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 5, 1884.

kept them fed at night and in dull weather, and
they have worked well and kept within the f rames.
I first observed young bees this morning, June
11th, twenty-five days after hiving. May I
expect them to do any super work this year, and
if so what sized super should I put on, reckoning
by the numbers of pounds it will accommodate ?
A friend has promised to give me a swarm, but
it is not yet come out. Is it still safe to hive it
separately, or should I do better to unite it to
my present swarm ?— Abbotsleigh. [A crate
of about fifteen one-pound sections should have
been given the swarm about twenty-one days
after hiving, and may yet be done with very
fair chance of sections being filled before the
close of the honey season. It is rather late
now to hive a swarm separately, but if strong it
will, if carefully fed at night and in unfavourable
weather, do well. If, however, the swarm is
small (under three pounds weight) it will pay
better to unite it to the other.—S. S. G.]

Age ot queen bees.— Could any reader who under¬
stands bees inform mo how old the cjueen bee is when she
commences to lay ? I made an artificial swarm, and am
anxious to know when I may expoct an increase in the old
stock.—A Constant Reader.

Bees In roof of house. -rWould “S. S. G., Box-
worth," or any reader of your paper, tell me through your
columns if there is any way in which I can get a stock of
bees out of the roof of a house and put them in a hive? A
’ost swarm got betweon the tiles and the ceiling last year,
and are now working there. They have not swarmed yet
this year.—A Puzzled One.

POULTRY.

Faoulty of imagination in hens.—A
correspondent writes complaining that his Ham¬
burgh chicken, although bred from pure birds
of a prize strain, are all more or less brown in
colour, and show but few, if any, of the cha¬
racteristics of the Hamburgh fowl. It appears
that he ke.ps besides some dark Brahma hens
in the run, and he suspects that the sight of
these latter birds have acted on the imagination
of the Hamburgh hens, and caused their off¬
spring to assume the brown plumage of the
Brahma. We say that this is quite possible;
but there are several reasons in this case why it
should not be. “L.” only bought the black
Hamburghs a short time before commencing to
sit the eggs. Now every poultry-breeder knows
how a former mesalliance will affect the eggs of
a hen for weeks, and even months. May not
the breeder from whom the stock birds were
purchased have allowed the hens to run with a
strange cock ? It seems also that tho Brahmas
and Hamburghs lay in the same nest-boxes, and
“L.” depends solely on the appearance of the
eggs to distinguish one from the other. This is
a very uncertain method, and, no doubt, he has
made mistakes. The only way to secure pure
eggs is to keep one sort only in a run. Many
well-authenticated cases of the effect of sight
on the imagination of the laying hen have been
recorded—black parents will often produce
white and speckled chickens when in the same
run with white birds.— Andalusian.

Houdan dying (“ Subscriber — We
should say this was a case either of crop bind¬
ing or apoplexy, both of which are caused by
careless feeding. Your birds were most likely
kept without food for many hours, and then
thrown some hard grain with which they gorged
themselves, and the crop became so distended
that it refused to perform its usual functions.
Where fowls are, from some cause or neglect,
withheld food for any length of time, soft food
should always be given them. If the birds
appear to suffer at all a little bread soaked in
ale is very reviving. This is excellent after
a long journey by rail. To relieve a bird that
has hard or swelled crop a little warm water
should be poured down the throat, and the
crop gently kneaded with the hands until soft
and yielding, when a dose of castor oil should
be administered, and in an hour or so the patient
will be quite relieved. We are inclined to think
your birds are too highly fed. See to this or
more cases will arise, and we should recommend
you to give a slight aperient—say a grain of
calomel per bird every other day for a week,
mixed in the soft food. Do you give much
maize ? If so you are doing wrong. A little
will not hurt, but in your case we should re¬
commend you to withhold it altogether. Do
not trouble about the hen which sits on the nest
without laying. Let well alone. She will lay
shortly.—A ndalusians

Digitized by V^jOCSlC

Best breed of Fowls.— In Gardening
Illustrated information is often asked for as
to the best breed of poultry to keep. From first
to last I have tried twelve sorts of the highly
commended, and I have no hesitation in giving
my opinion in favour of the Plymouth Rocks.
They are very good all the year round layers,
good table birds, good settlers, and excellent
mothers ; the chicks also are very hardy ; they
are so good-tempered that you can do anything
with them, when they are setting, in the way
of testing the eggs. No fowl bears confinement
better than the Plymouth Rocks, and a very
low fence keeps them in bounds. I don’t think
the use of the little egg tester is generally
known. When a hen has sat eight days the
eggs should be looked at through it; the
fruitful ones will appear black, the others clear
as when put under tne hen, and are then quite
good for puddings.—M. J.

Ducks not hatching (“Aylesbury”).—
If, a8 you state, you regularly damped the eggs
during the period of incubation, we fail to see
what necessity there could have been for so
much assistance having to be rendered by you
while the young ducks were emerging from the
shell. Did the eggs become fouled in any way ?
If so, they should have been carefully washed
in warm water, and replaced in a clean nest.
This is really the only reason we can give.—
Andalusian.

Insect food tor chicken.— It is most
important that chicken, when in confined runs,
should be supplied with a certain amount of
insect food. One has only to watch how a
chicken will chase a fly to understand how
great their craving for such is. We always
set a number of earwig and woodlice traps, and
if these be emptied in the run the contents will
be soon demolished. A piece of liver hung up
in the sun will soon become full of maggots.
These are very good for them, but, of course, in
a small place it is rather objectionable. Spratt’s
“ crissel ” is a very good substitute for insect
life, and chicken thrive wonderfully on it.—
Andalusian.

Breeding pigeons.—I have at the present time over
thirty pigeons, out of which I am breeding at the rate of
thirteen sittings a month ; but what still appears a mystery
to me is, viz., when the young birds get to be about teii
days old they all, or nearly all, seem to drop off and die
away. This cannot be put down to insects, nor can it be
put down to unclean nests, as they arc always freshly built
after every brood. If anyone could assist "me with a few
remarks I should be obliged.—T. Clikt.

AQUARIA.

ARRANGING AN AQUARIUM.
“Flossie’s” bell aquarium will not allow of
her keeping many zoophytes in health. She
must be careful not to overstock it. She should
strew some fine shingle, which has been well
washed in sea-water, over the bottom of her
tank, and then place in bits of coral and rock,
with a few pieces of growing Ulva, and a couple
of sea-snails—the Ulva will purify the water,
the snails clean the glass and eat up any refuse.
They are the scavengers of the aquarium. If
“ Flossie ” lives near the sea, she may be able
to procure specimens, if not, she must purchase
from a dealer in marine animals. I generally
stocked my tanks when at the sea-side. I found
some splendid zoophytes in North Wales, in the
Island of Anglesea, and I have likewise collected
at Littlehampton, Southsea, and other places.
Sea Anemones like the low-lying rocks from
which the tide recedes, and also are found in
those deep little pools of water which at low
tide are very come-at-able. If these pools are
overshadowed by a piece of rock you will most
certainly find some * ‘ living flowers. ” The
smooth Anemone with a long name, Actinue
Mesembryanthemum, and the thick homed, com
monly called “Crass,” otherwise Burrodes
crassicomis, are the most general; but the
Crass is more delicate than the smooth, and
requires greater care, so I usually kept mine in
a tank by themselves.

It is best when collecting to chip off with a
small hammer the piece of rock to which the
Anemone has fixed itself, and place it, flower
and all, in your aquarium, for some kinds, Crass
especially, get injured in removal from the stone
to which it has affixed itself. I fed my animals
at first with raw beef, sliced very fine ; had a
long wooden pincer. They are sold with the
Anemones for the purpose ; but once the tank

is fairly established, the water clear, the sea¬
weed growing, and the live stock firmly settled
down on their several rocks, they will need
very little artificial food. The water for gold¬
fish, which, of course, “ Florrie ” knows must
be fresh, not sea-water, will not require chang¬
ing for weeks—nay, even months, if she will
put in the tank a plant of Valisneria spiralis. A
gallon of water for two fish is sufficient. Never
give the fish bread, or biscuit, or meat, as it
will breed disease. A very tiny red worm or
small fly may be given occasionally, and the
fish like some fine gravel at the bottom of the
tank. I at one time had a small pond for gold¬
fish, where they throve well, and in it I put
several plants—Anacharis, Water Lilies, Bull
Rushes. If one has space ail are suitable for a
pond ; but Yatlis peria is the best for a glass
or tank. Hel£n Watney.

HOUSEHOLD.

Pot Pourri. —As some of your correspon¬
dents in Gardening Illustrated have asked
for a good recipe for pot pourri, I send a most
excellent one. I have some pot pourri by me
now, made fifteen years ago from this recipe,
which is still highly perfumed :—1 lb. bay salt,
2 oz. saltpetre, both in finest powder, a handful
of sweet Bay leaves cut very small, same of
Myrtle and Rosemary and Verbena leaves, and
Lemon and common Thyme in flower ; half an
ounce of Cinnamon, 1 drachm of Cloves,
1 drachm of allspice, a large Nutmeg, all in
fine powder ; the rinds of four Lemons cut very
small, 1 drachm essence of Musk, 1 drachm
spirit of Lavender, 1 drachm essence of
Lemon, 1 oz. Bergaraotte. Mix these with

1 oz. of Storax and 6 oz. powdered Orris
Root. Put them in a jar with a lid that shuts
very close. Then add the following flowers,
as you can get them in:—Three handfuls
of Orange flowers, three of Clove Pinks, six of
sweetest Rose leaves, two of Rosemary flowers,
two of Lavender flowers, two of Jasmine, two
of Violets. Stir it up frequently, especially
after putting in anything fresh. You may add
any sweet flowers that are not succulent.
Gather your Roses early in the morning, and
add them immediately to the rest, only taking
care not to leave even two Rose leaves sticking
together, and pick out every bit of green ; the
same with the Pinks and Carnations, any of
which will do, though Cloves are best. Syringa
flowers are a good substitute for Orange
blossom. If this mixture becomes too moist,
add Orris Root and spices ; if too dry, add bay
salt and saltpetre. It cannot be stirred too
much or be too thoroughly mixed, especially it
first. If well made it will keep many years
without losing its perfume.—E. C. H., Tidmarsk
Manor.

Hop or bitter beer.— 2.} gallons water;

2 lb. brown sugar, 5d. ; 2 handfuls of hoj s,
4d. ; 2 tablespoonsful of yeast, id. ; total, 6d.
Boil the Hops in the water for twenty minut* :8,
then add the sugar. When milk-warm put in
the yeast, and let it stand twelve hours. Th m
skim and pour off carefully the clear liquid,
leaving all the sediment behind. Then bott e.
It will be ready in two days. The pouring < iff
is best managed by pouring steadily from o le
vessel to another, keeping back the sediment:

Cream and cheese.— Will one of your practi a 1
readers tell me the best way of making cream and a so
new milk cheese ? How soon are they ready for use af cr
they are made ?—G. S.

Birds v. slugs and snails.— In refercr -e
to this question I may state that where blac t-
birds and thrushes are very scarce, slugs a id
snails are more plentiful than I have ever n ct
with them before in districts in which birds i re
numerous. There can, therefore, I think, be 10
question that slugs form the greater part of 1 ie
food of blackbirds and thrushes when proc r-
able. I have repeatedly noticed after rain, wl *n
worms, slugs, and snails were plentiful on le
surface, that these birds were not troubleso i©
to the fruit; but in periods of drought, wl m
short of what one may call their natural fo d,
they would go under fish nets or through c ly
aperture to get at either Strawberries, Cherr; >s,
or bush fruits. After rain good-sized bus es
are quite loaded with shell snails that dev ur

ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

JULY 12, 1884.

No. 270.

INDOOR PLANTS.

MINIATURE BASKET FERN.
(adiantum dolabriforme.)

Thls charming Fern belongs to a small group
of Adiantums, consisting of A. caudatum,
eiliatum or Edgeworthi, and lunulatum, all
kinds possessing the same habit and all found
in the Tropics and succeeding well under simi¬
lar treatment. All
of them require stove
temperature, and the
compost which suits
them best is a mix¬
ture of two parts peat
and one of fibrous
loam with a dash of
rilrer sand, and they
like to be kept as
near the light as pos-
«ible. To a certain
extent A. dolabri-
forme resembles the
old-fashioned, yet
beautiful A. lunula¬
tum, but it is more
graceful in appear¬
ance, its stalks are
more slender, and the
pinna* smaller and
rounder; moreover,
the deciduous habit
of A lunulatum is a
great drawback to it.

It is very provoking
in autumn to see a
plant of it in a hang¬
ing bosket gradually
going down until
nothingia left but the
hare basket itself, and
the knowledge that
h mnat remain in
that state for about
five months in the
year is certainly not
conducive to its being
largely grown. In
A. dolabriforme this
drawback is removed;

3 is a thoroughly
evergreen species, ad¬
mirably adapted for
email baskets, in
riiich it shows itself
off to perfection, and
the young plants be¬
longing to two, and
even three, genera¬
tion* growing on tho
tips of its graceful
elongated pinnate
fronds, with dolabri-
form pinnules, pro-
i duce a charming
1 effect, and make a
lnjost attractive as
I yell as a most use-
l-al plant. To Mr.
lffihiams we are in-
fbbted for this valu-
^!e addition to our
dy long list of
tiutifnl plants used
^ the ornaments-
*>nof our stoves, in

* of which in his nursery at Holloway it is
m making a charming display.

1*50.— Hydrangea culture.— Few plants

* nioro easily grown than these, being nearly

They thrive best in the open air
k^tgh the summer months ; but, beginning
time when they shed their foliage in lute
they should, by the end of Noveml>er,
* fact »<1 in their winter quarters, which may
** J cold frame, a cool-greenhouse, -cr an
-•'vwry.

grower. Alx>ut the beginning of January they
require looking to, and should then be pruned,
and, if pot-bound, re potted. Pruning consists
in shortening back the strong Bhoots to
the lowermost pair of eyes on the wood of
the preceding year. This causes them to
break strongly, and keep the plants dwarf,
an important consideration where they have to
be growm along into large specimens. In re¬
potting use good loam, w'ith a sixth part of

Baiket Fern (Adiantum dolabriforme).

rotten manure, as Hydrangeas are hungry sub¬
jects, with good digestive organs, easily taking
strong food, and plenty of it. In potting, ram
the new soil in firmly round the old base ;
indeed, it can scarcely be pressed in too hard,
that is, if the loam is of average tenacity only.
Only moderate drainage is necessary —one good
crock and a handful of fibrous material being
enough for small pots, and a third layer of
small crocks for anything larger tlmn an 8-inch
pot. From the time the young shoots form, the
plants should have a light position, and get

plenty of air in fine weather. Sometimes they
get greenfly, for which they must be dusted
with Tobacco powder. The last week of May,
when danger from frost is no more to bo feared,
put them in the open air in a sunny place,
giving them abundance of water w hen the pots
get full of roots, and liquid manure once or
twice a w'eek.—J. C. B.

11679. — Marguerites. — The best white
variety is Alice Crousse, or Halleri maxima.

Wo have had it in
flower since Christ¬
mas. It is now beau¬
tifully in flower in the
open garden. The
best yellow one is
Etoile d’Or ; it may
almost be had in
flow'er during the
w f hole year. —J. D. E.

Fragrance of
Fuchsia Seeds.—
Have any of your
readers noticed the
fruity smell of the
Beedpodsof the Fuch¬
sia splendens? I have
a plant in a small
house which is filled
with its perfume.—
Nip.

ROSES.

Roses in Glass¬
houses. — Accord¬
ing to my experience,
Roses permanently
planted out under
glass are all the
better for being fully
exposed by the re¬
moval of the top lights
from the beginning of
June until the end of
August. In the Exe¬
ter Nuraeries, where
Roses arc planted out
in long span-roofed
pits, they are treated
in this way, and
now’here else have I
seen such successful
results. The raised
beds in which your
correspondent says
liis Roses arc grow n
have added their
Bharc to his want of
success. Under such
circumstances it is
doubtful if the plants
have had Bullicient
water. I find that
even when planted in
level borders the
quantity of water
which they require is
somewhat alarming;
therefore plants in
raised beds would
require considerably
more—no new expe¬
rience, however, in
the case of vigor¬
ous grow ing subjects
planted out under
glass and dependent upon the cultivator for
every drop of water which they get. Of courso
if the roots could get all the water which they
require, plants in raised beds would grow as well
as on level ground, hut the chances are against
them when in any way elevated. As re¬
gards general treatment I find that Roses
are not difficult to manage. A deep, fairly good
border ia necessary, ami if composed of good
fibrous loam no mafluro will Itoc necessary ; but
if not, pne-fourth-part rotten farmyard manuro
should 1 w 'Rddeiv to it yJ except m'.lofr-lying

urbanA-champaign '

204

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Joly 12, 1884.

situations, no drainage is required. This I
have learnt from experience. At one time I
erred by giving too much drainage, and the
plants suffered in consequence. With regard
to planting, if they have been grown in pots
they can be put out at any time, but I prefer to
plaut during the winter months when the
plants are at rest. Then the roots can be dis¬
entangled and spread out to occupy more space
thau they otherwise would do. A good deal
may be done towards securing success by
selecting the most suitable positions for growth ;
such positions must enjoy a full share of
light. In a properly constructed and inter-
mtllv well-arranged house entirely devoted
to Roses there will not, of course, be much
difficulty in selecting proper positions for the
plants, but even in that case the cultivator
must exercise judgment. If the roof is too much
shaded by climbers, Roses beneath them will
make weakly growth, and produce but few
dowers. In my case, having a large, unheated
house erected for Peaches, we grow’ a good many
Roses in it. In every available space along the
front and ends, where they arc sure to get plenty
of light, we plant a Rose tree. Supporting the
roof of this house there is along the middle a row
of iron pillars, against every one of which w r e
have a climbing Rose, and as soon as they reach
the roof w r e train them on the rafters, which are
about S feet apart. Thus managed, their shade
is not in any way detrimental to the Peach
trees grown beneath them ; nor do they in other
respects seriously interfere with them. The
only part of the season during which we dislike
their presence amongst the Peaches is while the
latter are in blossom. Then we have to discon¬
tinue syringing for a time, and the Roses are
sure to get some amount of greenfly upon
them. These, however, soon disappear when
the Peaches go out of bloom and the garden
engine is applied vigorously every evening.
The summer management consists in giving the
roots plenty of water, tying in such growths
as require it, and removing dead flowers. We
leave, indeed, our Roses to grow pretty much as
they like in summer. We certainly should not
think of pruning them, unless it be cutting away
a few useless branches. On account of their
l>eing somewhat more tender than Hybrid
Perpetuals, Noisettes and Teas are the most
suitable for growing permanently under glass.
In a light, airy house all Roses may be grown
with a fair amount of success, but if I had my
own way I should exclude Hybrid Perpetuals
altogether, and especially those of scandent
habit, from a Rose house, for they are the most
unsatisfactory of any. For training under the
roof or for forming bowers in a proper Rose
house the following may be selected without fear
of disappointment, viz., Reine Marie Henriette,
a capital grower, a quality happily belonging to
several others of equal merit; it flowers freely,
is fairly fragrant, and as a red Rose there is a
delicacy of colour about it that makes it quite
charming. When this variety was introduced I
somewhat underrated its value, but longer ac¬
quaintance with it has caused me to alter my
first opinion respecting it. Cheshunt Hybrid is a
strong growing Rose and delightful as regards
fragrance and freedom of flowering; Duchess of
Edinburgh resembles it in colour, and is a fairly
good grower, but in other respects not equal to
the two preceding ; Climbing Devoniensis, a
rampant grower, is only suitable for very large
houses ; Marechal Niel, Gloire de Dijon, Celine
Forestier, and Solfaterre are also adapted for
training or festooning under the roof. For
pillars 6 feet or 8 feet high the following is a
useful selection from the Tea-scented sorts, viz.,
President, Niphetos, Catherine Mermet, Marie
Van Houttc, David Pradel, and Safrano. For
growing in bush form one could hardly make a
mistake in selecting from the Teas. My choice
would be Devoniensis, Madame Falcot, La-
marque, Letty Coles, Adam, Belle Lyonnaise,
La Tulipc, Eliza Savage, and La Boule d’Or.
The pruning should be done in December.
For the first two years very little pruning
will be necessary; afterwards it is best to
thin out Rome of the old wood and leave in
young to take its place. Such vigorous growers
as Cheshunt Hybrid, Gloire de Dijon, and
Reine Marie Henriette will flower fairly well if
pruned back within three or four buds of the
old wood, but when practicable the strongest of
the young branches^hould^ be leftpwith just a
littlp, shortening ba|k—

jranehear-should be loft jwith

nin?ba|k^^y l O[g

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Coni i n ucd from pajc 198 .)

The Gooseberry

Is one of the most valuable hardy fruits in every
sense of the word. In a green state its excel¬
lent culinary qualities are well known, both as
jam, and also used freshly gathered from the
bush, and when quite ripe the Gooseberry is
one of the few fruits which everybody likes.
The climate of these islands is especially suited
for Gooseberry culture. In hot countries the
berries lack both size and flavour, and though
occasionally spring frosts may thin our crops,
yet a total failure seldom happens. As
much as £100 per acre can be made of Goose¬
berries. It is a crop deserving of all the atten¬
tion that can be given to it; but, in point of
fact, the culture of the Gooseberry is a very
simple matter, and need not occupy much time
in the telling.

Propagation.

This is done by means of cuttings, which
should be selected when the leaves fall in
autumn. The longest, straightest, stoutest
shoots only should be chosen, to give the
necessary length of leg, to keep the fruit from
being splashed with dirt during heavy showers.
The cuttings should not be less than a foot long.
The bottom end should be cut straight across
just below the joint, and all the buds or eyes,
except the three upper ones, should be cut out.
The cuttings should be made before Christmas,
even if they cannot be planted then, and w hen
made they must be laid in the soil beneath a
north wall. The planting should take place
any fime before the end of March, and I prefer
the north border to any other place. They will
strike root out in the open, but, if the next
summer turns out hot and dry, the cool border
is the best place for them. If they are planted
in an open situation, mulch with short litter
to keep the moisture about them and afford
shelter. Plant in rows one foot apart and
six inches apart in the rows, burying about three
inches of the bottom in the ground, and treading
the soil firmly around them.

Pruning and Training.

A well-formed Gooseberry bush, when fully
grown, should be from 5 ft. to 6 ft. in diameter
and about 4 ft. high, speaking roughly. The
shape should be that of a basin—i. c ., w r ith an
open centre, from which all crossing branches
are removed by pruning. In training a young
bush always cut to an eye pointing in the direc¬
tion we wish the future branch to take, and
there will be no difficulty in making the bush
assume any shape we like. There are two
systems of training Gooseberries common in
gardens. One may be called the formal type,
in contradistinction to the more natural plan of
keeping the bushes well thinned out, but
nothing more. In the formal system the tree
has a more or less formally-arranged skeleton of
main branches, from which spring the young
shoots which are annually spurred in, the crop
being chiefly borne on these spurs. According
to the other plan, there is but little attempt at
training, and but little shortening of the w’ood ;
the tree is encouraged to renew itself, and as
much young wood is left in as there is room for.
Though it is never allowed to get into a densely
crowded condition, it is advantageous to permit
as much growth as there is room for, for the
sake of the shelter afforded in cold springs, and
such bushes seldom fail to bear immense crops.
By the regulation of the young wood the cul¬
tivator can ensure pretty well wffiat crop he
likes. In pruning one of these naturally-grown
bushes the first tiling is to cast the eye over the
bush, and note its symmetry, for it is just as
easy to have handsome, shapely bushes as un¬
even, sprawling ones. Any branches that are
getting near the ground should be cut back.
The w’eight of the crop has a tendency to drag
the branches downwards, and a little annual
trimming will be required to keep the branches
off the ground. Next open out the centre
of the bush, removing all branches showing
a tendency to cross over. Afterwards the
remainder of the bush is thinned regularly,
cutting out au old branch where crowded, and
leaving a young one to take its place. It is the
constant renewal, by a gradual removal of the
old, and a substitution of the young, which
: makes this system answer bo well, especially in
I bad seasons. The bushes may not look so re*

gular in shape as if trained more exactly, but
they are longer lived, and are more profitable,
and when full of foliage and heavily laden they
have not an ungraceful appearance. In begin¬
ning with a plantation of young bushes, it is
necessary to have some definite object in view,
and prune accordingly ; but it is next to impos¬
sible to obtain heavy crops of berries without
leaving in plenty of young wood, and all those
who are dissatisfied with the crop they obtain
may increase it next year by altering the
system of pruning.

Pyramidal Gooseberries.

Though the bush form is the natural one for
the Gooseberry, yet it will easily assume any
other, if the necessary supports are available
and time is given to the training. By starting
with a young bush before it has been much
pruned, placing a 6-foot stake to it, selecting
the strongest shoot for the leader, and tying it
to the stake, allowing the other branches to
grow out in tiers, a graceful pyramid will bo
formed in a few years, which, if not pruned too
closely, will bear very heavy crops. It must
not be permitted to grow up too fast, or the
bottom will become naked, and then the in¬
tended object will be defeated. Some kinds of
Gooseberries are erect in their habit of growth,
and others have a drooping tendency, and these
peculiarities must be noted and corrected either
by pruning, or, in the case of the drooping kinds,
such as the Red Warrington, giving timely
assistance when young.

Planting and Manuring.

After the cuttings are well rooted the young
trees should be planted in nursery rows 18 inches
apart and a foot from each other in the rows.
This will give space to get them into shape, to
fit them for removal to the quarter where they
are to fruit. Sometimes Gooseberries are planted
round the margins of the vegetable quarters, and
in such a position they should not be less than
8 feet apart, in order to give room to move freely
among them. A good plan is to gather the
Gooseberries and other bush fruits into beds or
quarters by themselves ; but the exigencies of the
cultivator’s situation will guide him as to w’hat
to do in this respect. In whatever situation the
Gooseberry is placed the results will be in pro¬
portion to the treatment given, and manure
both solid and liquid, will be well bestowed.
Mulching, too, is a beneficial process in dry
seasons. Heavy crops must be well nourished,
or the fruit will be inferior.

Time to Prune.

Some people leave the pruning till spring, in
places where the birds, such as bullfinches and
sparrows, are numerous ; but if the birds
cannot be kept down they can easily ae
circumvented. Black cotton, passed and re¬
passed over the surface of the bushes, general ly
scares them, and if this fails, or in associati >n
with it to make sure, syringe the bushes witl a
thin mixture of soot and lime, in which a lit do
Boft soap has been added. This will stick to
the bushes a long time, and when the bii ds
find anything distasteful, the same birds seld< m
go near them again. Therefore, having 1 ho
means of keeping off the birds, I always pri no
in autumn, and this gives an opportunity to / efc
the l>ordcrs and quarters manured and dress sd
by forking over early in the winter. WI 311
grown side by side in rows, in beds or quarte s,
plant 6 feet apart each way—less space v ill
not permit of justice being done them.

Summer Pruning.

This is not much attended to as a rule, 1 ut
if time permits its tendency is beneflei d.
Simply thinning out the young wood, where 1 yo
thick, is all that is needed in a general way in
average culture. Where a few large berries ; re
required for exhibition, more should be done,
Gooseberries on Walls.

Walls or fences which are too low or not e-
quired for other kinds of fruit may be pro t-
ably used for bush fruit, Gooseberries or
Currants. The Palmetto is the best way to
train them. When the young bushes re
planted they should be headed back to el
breaks from the bottom, which should be *d
out at right angles one on each side. Fi m
these horizontal branches others should bo
taken vertically, training them about G inc cs
apart. If planted about 4 or 5 feet apart u«
>yall will soon be wavered. The Gooseberry
succeeds well as an espalier trained against u

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jdlt 12, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

205

wire fence 4 or 5 feet high; it makes a
nice verge or margin to the vegetable quarters.
By planting the Red Warrington against a
north wall, or the north side of a fence, Goose¬
berries may be had late in the season.

Varieties for Exhibition.

The following list of kinds have obtained
prizes for the heaviest berries at the northern
shows, and are reckoned as being the best of
their class :—

fed .—Lord Derby, Bobby, Blucher, London,
Dan's Mistake, Maccaroni, Beauty, and Plough-
boy.

Yellow. —Ringer, Leveller, Mount Pleasant,
Lady Haughton, Thatcher, High Sheriff, Hit or
Miss, and Pretender.

Green. —Surprise, Stockwell, Diadem, Plun¬
der, British Tar, Shiner, Telegraph, and Green
London.

White. —Transparent, Antagonist, Fascina¬
tion, Careless, Marchioness, Hero of the Nile,
Postman, and Princess Royal.

To produce the heaviest weights superior
cultivation must be given. The wood must be
kept thin, all weak sprays being cut out in
summer, leaving only the strong young shoots
which will be required to bear the crop next
year, and ample space must be given to let in
the air and the sunshine. The bushes should
be mulched beneath the branches, and in dry
weather the mulch should be kept moist, as this
gives off a constant vapour, which increases the
size of the berries, and those who strive for the
mastery in Gooseberry culture cannot afford to
throw a chance away, for the competition is
keen. If the bush carries more than a very
limited number of berries in proportion to its
size some must be taken off, as, to the Goose¬
berry fancier, winning a prize is of far greater
importance than having a heavy crop of Goose¬
berries.

Varieties for Dessert.

Red. —Warrington, Champagne, Wilmot’s
Early, Keen’s Seedling, Ironmonger, Early Red
Hairy.

JY/iite .—Lady Leicester, Snowball, White¬
smith, Bright Venus, Crystal.

Green. — Early Green Hairy, Pitmaston,
Greengage, Green Walnut, Yellow Champagne,
Yellow Smith, Yellow Sulphur, Broom Girl.

In the above list are also found the best pre¬
serving kinds, such as Champagne and War¬
rington. To obtain first-class dessert fruits the
bushes should not be overloaded, and this need
not be ; as so many are used in a green state it
is an easy matter to thin them without incur¬
ring any waste. There is no doubt, I think,
that it is more profitable in a commercial sense
to gather the fruit ^reen than permit the
berries to ripen. Ripe Gooseberries are a
perishable commodity, not suitable to send to a
distant market, but the fruit when green will
travel any distance, and keep any reasonable
length of time. And when the bushes are
relieved of their load early they have plenty of
time to rest, and fill up the buds for the next
season.

Diseases and Insects.

The Gooseberry is a native fruit, improved
and brought by cultivation to its present con¬
dition, and -will grow anywhere in these islands.
If well cared for, though often oppressed by in¬
sects, such as the apnide, which curl up the
leaves, and the caterpillar, which consume in
a comparatively short time every particle of
green, the Gooseberry has no special disease
which the cultivator need fear. The worst
tilings are the caterpillars, for, if neglected,
they become a real trouble. In their worst
form they are the larvae of a saw fly, which lays
ita eggs on the under side of the leaf about the
end of May. There is a Gooseberry moth, but
its progeny are not so destructive as that of the
£iw fly. Perhaps the best way of getting rid of
them is to look for the eggs and pick off the
Wes on which they are laid and destroy them.
They will be found, about the end of May, packed
'a lines on each side of the mid rib of the leaf on

under side. Another and a very old plan is
to scatter quicklime under the bushes, and shake
’•he caterpillars into it, by giving the stem
i the bush a sudden tap with the handle
i a spade. They are easily dislodged,
l taken unawares, but they cling tightly
a the least disturbance, and there is no chance
^dropping them unless it be done suddenly.
Ae insect in the chrysaHs state remains ITurjed all

winter in the groufed hefoejrt h i Hfilbjittfes on

which they have been reared. And this is a good
time to attack them. Sometimes a removal of
the top soil 3 inches deep to another place,
bringing back fresh, will get rid of a
good number. Another remedy which I have
seen recommended, but have not tried, as
I have had no caterpillars of late years,
i3 to sprinkle gas tar beneath the bushes
in the winter and stir the soil afterwards with
hoe or rake. A brush made of a handful of
straw drawn out straight will do for its distri¬
bution—though I have not tried this plan myself,
I have great faith in its efficacy—and at the
same time it will be harmless to vegetation.
The aphides may often be cleared off by cutting
away the infested shoots, if taken in time. If
the ripe fruits are required to hang any time
they should be protected with nets, especially
such kinds as the Warrington. F. Hobday.

VEGETABLES.

MUSHROOMS.

TnE true Mushroom (Agaricus campestris) is
invariably found amongst Grass in rich, open
pastures, and never on or about stumps, or in

True Mushroom (Agaricus campestris).

woods. Many cases of poisoning have occurred
owing to the supposed Mushrooms being
gathered from stumps or in woods ; it is true
there is a certain variety found in woods and
w'oody places (A. silvicola), but, as far as amateurs
are concerned, it is best left alone. A second
very good point is the peculiar, intense purple-
brown colour of the spores (which are analogous
to seeds) ; the ripe aud fully mature Mushroom
derives the intense purple-brown colour (almost
black) of its gills from the presence of these
innumerable coloured spores. To see these
spores, and so become acquainted with the
peculiar colour, remove the stem from a Mush¬
room, and lay the upper portion, with the gills
lowermost, on a sheet of writing paper ; in a
few hours the spores will be deposited in a
thick, dark, impalpable powder. Several dan¬
gerous species, at times mistaken for this Mush¬

room, have these spores umber-brown or pale
umber-brown in colour, and belong to Pholiota
or Hebeloma. In the accompanying figure is
shown a vertical section of the true Mushroom,
which differs (when the colour of the spores is
taken into consideration) from almost all other
Agarics, and certainly from all poisonous ones.
One of the principal points to be observed is
the distinct and perfect collar at c, quite en¬
circling the stem, and the edge of cap at b,
overlapping the gills ; in some poisonous
allies, as A. oeruginosus (generally found on
and about stumps), this ring is reduced to
a mere fringe, and the overlapping margin
is absent, or reduced to a few mere white
flecks or scales. Lastly, the gills never reach
or touch the stem a, for, on inverting a Mush¬
room, a blank space will be seen all round the
top of the stem where the gills are free from the
stalk. There are innumerable varieties of the
true Mushroom and of the horse Mushroom, but
all are equally good for the table; sometimes
the top is white and soft, like kid leather; at other
times it is dark brown and scaly. Sometimes, on
being cut or broken, the Mushroom changes
colour to yellow, or even blood-red ; at other
times no change whatever takes place. But,
observe, the Mushroom always grows in pastures,
always has dark purple-brown spores, always
has a perfect encircling clothy collar, and always
has gills which do not touch the stem, and a top
with an overlapping edge. G. S.

SUMMER TREATMENT OF TOMATOES.

Not a great many years ago, “Love Apples,”
as Tomatoes were then called, were oftener
looked upon as ornaments than as valuable
food, but now the love for Tomatoes is universal.
This is as it should be. No better esculents
can be grown than Tomatoes ; and, although in
instances here and there they can be grown and
gathered all the year round, it is only in the
summer time when the great majority of small
garden owners can have them. Special atten¬
tion should therefore be devoted to them now
if an abundance of fine fruit is to be obtained
before the end of September. In* favourable
localities large quantities of Tomatoes may be
grown out-of-doors in summer. In exception¬
ally favourable seasons we have had them in
open quarters tied to stakes, but, as a rule, this
plan cannot be generally depended on; growing
and training them against a wall with a south
aspect is the surest of all modes of making
them succeed. A special or whole wall should
never be given up to them, but every bare spot
between trees should be covered with them.

Planting. —It is not yet too late, to plant,
but in many cases the plants will have been out
for some time, and it is these which will now re¬
quire attention. As a rule growers are inclined
to put a great deal of manure on their Tomato
ground, and this, especially at first, causes the
plants to make a large quantity of superfluous
growth, which is unfavourable to fertility. It is
also a mistake to allow young plants to grow
out of all shape and bounds before restricting
them ; careful stopping and training from the
first is best. In some instances one main stem
will be sufficient to fill up the vacancy, and in
others there may be room for two or three ; but
the stems should never be closer than 12 inches,
and side growths, which are always ready to
push out, should be rubbed away when quite
small. This will admit plenty of light and air
to the main stems, and clusters of flowers and
fruits will be formed at every few inches apart
all along the main branches. When the weather
is too wet or too cold for the fruit to swell freely
or ripen off, a frame-light should be set on end
over each plant, which from this will be found
to receive great assistance. If too tall for the
lights to cover, the latter should be raised upon
bricks.

Old plants grown in pots or boxes, in houses
or pits, to produce fruit throughout the spring,
frequently become straggly and bare at the
bottom at this time, but all such may be turned
to a profitable account if taken out and nailed to
a south wall, where they will have shelter and
sunshine. After being there for a short time
the growth will not look so well ps when newly
brought out, but they will soon recover and be
even more fruitful than before. At present we
have some fine fruitful plants treated in this
way and doing well. These plants, it may be
stated, were not turned out DT their pots when

UREANA-CHAMPAIGN

206

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 12 , 1884 .

taken to the walls ; being pot-bound, they are
more fruitful than if they had been, and they
can be well fed when it is desirable to do so.
VVhereno other place is available for their growth,
a fine lot of summer Tomatoes may bo grown in
Frames. —These may be planted out like
Cucumbers, or they may be grown in pots,
which should be placed at one end of the frame
and their growths trained near the glass. This
is done by suspending a small trellis, made of
wood or wire, just inside the frame. From
4 inches to 6 inches is about the right distance
to have it from the glass, and the shoots should
be trained thinly over it. As there are many
empty frames now, they might be profitably
employed in this way, especially in northern
and cold localities. Manure water is most
beneficial to all Tomatoes during the summer
time, but it should only be given to plants which
have their rooting space well filled with active
feeders and their branches bearing heavy crops.
To give manure water to plants with hardly any
fruit on them only encourages the production of
superfluous growth, which is useless. C.

Glob© Artichokes. —Plants having such
large leaves as Globe Artichokes require a good
deal of support in summer if the flower-heads
are to be large and succulent. Rich mulchings
and frequent supplies of liquid manure will be
of great benefit now. To give a successional
character to the crop the flower-stems should be
removed now from a part of the plants. This
will cause a new crop to spring up later on,
when they will probably be more valuable than
now.—E.

Gutting Cabbages.— In garden culture
Cabbage stems are commonly left for the sake
of the successional crop produced by them later
in the season. As in large establishments,
young, tender Cabbages are always in demand,
and the second crop equal to a threefold one,
often more, the leaves should be left on the
stems for a week or ten days after the Cabbage
has been cut, as in that time the young sprouts
will be pushing out to supersede them. No
plant, not even a Cabbage, should be denuded
of all it3 leaves at ono time if we w r ish to gather
another crop from it. —E.

Thrips on Cucumbers.— No pest that
infests the Cucumber is so easy of destruction
as this, and that by fumigating with Tobacco
paper, the conditions of application being that
the atmosphere of the house and foliage be dry,
which can only be effected by leaving the venti¬
lators of the house open till the last moment,
and using plenty of Moss with the Tobacco
paper, which, whilst it adds to the density of
the smoke, prevents, as a rule, injury being
done to the foliage, by reducing the strength of
the Tobacco vapour.—W. W.

Sutton’s first crop Cauliflower is fit to
cut in fourteen weeks from the time of sowing.
I sowed it on the 22nd of February and placed
it in a cool greenhouse near the glass, and as
soon as the first rough leaves were formed I
pricked the young plants off into 3-inch pots
(Long Toms). They were then kept growing
steadily in the same house until the 29th of
March, when they were removed to a cold frame
and gradually exposed to the air. They w r ere
planted out in trenches on the 11th of April,
protected at night for a short time, and were
given good waterings in the morning, and thus
treated were fit to cut by the 30th of May. The
soil in the pots w r as good loam and sand.—E. J.
Day, Uanwell Castle , Somerset.

Early Peas. —The dates of sowing and
other particulars respecting the following sorts
of Peas may possibly prove useful. In the first
place I sowed four varieties—viz., five rows of
Day’s Early Sunrise, fourteen rows of William I.,
sown on the 8th of January, and I gathered
on June 11 our first dish from William I. Day’s
Early Sunrise is a disappointing Pea with me.
From that variety I did not commence to gather
until the 23rd June, although both were exactly
under the samo conditions. These two kinds
comprised my first sowing. From Emerald
Gem, sown on the 20th February, I gathered
my first dish on June 18, and from Laxton’s
Alpha a few days afterwards. From the
Emerald Gem I have gathered a grand lot, and
I would advise all who have not growm it to
make their last sowing of it. William I. and
Alpha are good ul^roumRPeas, 1ml for a first
earl^'I like Eihor.\l 1 iii/f|^£ju8t re

corded speak for themselves as to its earliness
for North Wales. Altogether I have forty short
rows of good Peas on a south border, from
which I can gather daily until those in other
parts of the garden more exposed come into
use. While spring-sowm Peas can be had so
early, I hardly see the use of sowing in autumn.
—J. C., Brynkinult.

Picking Peas. —A good many years have
elapsed since I first began to experiment with
Peas with the view of testing their powers of
continuous or successional bearing. I found in
the majority of cases picking off the seeds
whilst green, when accompanied by good culture,
caused new growths to push out, which bore a
larger number of blossoms than were produced
at the first, though smaller, and the Peas in the
pod were fewer ; still the colour and flavour
were all right, and the second crop was a profit¬
able one, or I should not have left it, as it was
incumbent upon me to make the most of every¬
thing. But to make Peas worth keeping for the
second crop they must be planted thinly in the
rows, and the rows must be isolated in order
that the sun may shine all around them. In
addition they must be mulched and the pods
picked green— i.e. y in the condition in which
they are generally gathered for table. The
question, of course, arises, Is it worth while to
leave Peas for a second crop? Well, I can only
say I expect to gather green Peas daily, Sundays
excepted, from this crop till the end of Sep¬
tember, or longer if required ; and the second
crop from such kinds as Huntingdonian will, I
know, prove useful, generally beating the late
sown round Peas ; in fact, I have left off sowing
the earlies for a late crop.—H.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

Permanent creepers must have heavy water¬
ings at the roots and a good cleansing with the
syringe occasionally. Admit as much sunlight
as possible to keep the plants short-jointed and
well ripened, as on this more than anything else
will their free flowering depend. The latest
plants of Azalea indica will now have made good
growth, and should be gradually removed to a
lower temperature preparatory to being turned
outside. Where there is a good stock of
Lachenalias, an early batch should now be
potted up. Pot them in a rich, loamy compost,
in G-inch pots, and place them under cover in a
cold frame, giving an abundance of air as soon
as the plants commence growth. These are
very suitable plants for basket work, and will
give much satisfaction when grown in that way.
The principal thing is to get a good develop¬
ment of foliage on them early in the autumn, as
it comes much brighter and of better substance
than later on in the season, and the plants can be
forced with a certainty of every bulb throwing
up blossom-spikes.

Plants of Clerodendron Balfouri should now
be pruned and put under growing conditions at
once, in order to get a strong growth on them
as early in the autumn as possible. Cut them
down to a few eyes, and select a few of the
strongest breaks and allow them to grow without
any check till the end of the season. Train them
close to the glass, and feed the plants liberally
at the roots with manure water. The different
species of Hoya will now be getting past their
best, and will require to be repotted and to
have their growths regulated. The smaller
kinds are admirable subjects for growing in
baskets, but in whatever way they are used a
light rich compost and very free drainage must
be afforded them. Some cuttings should now
be put in to keep on growing slowly through the
winter ; these will give much more satisfaction
than old plants, which, as generally managed,
are thin and scraggy, showing too much of the
old wood, whereas a well-grown Fuchsia should
be profusely furnished with young shoots,
covered with flowers and healthy foliage.
Fuchsias, Petunias, and zonal Pelargoniums
that are intended to flower through the autumn
should receive all requisite attention, and be
kept in a blooming condition so long as there
is sufficient atmospheric heat and light, as
from this time forward there are compara¬
tively few greenhouse plants to maintain a
display.

Some Auricula growers repot their old plants

at this season ; therefore it may not be amiss
to state how it ought to be done. In most
cases all the old potting material should be re¬
moved from the roots, and the long taproot
should be shortened considerably. The plants
should then be repotted at once in pots not
larger than 4 inches or 5 inches in diameter ; see
that they are well drained with broken pot¬
sherds, and over the draining place some fibrous
turf to prevent any of the potting material mix¬
ing with the drainage. This is an important
point as regards successful culture. It also
sometimes happens that the plants receive a
check either during or after the operation of re¬
potting ; this should, likewise, be avoided. Do
not have a number of plants put of their pots at
one time, but as one is made ready for potting
see that it is potted at once. Afterwards place
the plants in a frame, where they can be kept
somewhat close, until roots have been formed.
The compost should be mainly rotten turfy
loam, consisting of about four parts loam to one
of leaf-mould, and rotten manure, with some
sand and powdered charcoal added to it. The
plants should be pressed into the pots rather
firmly with the fingers.

Flower Garden.

Climbers. —Regulate the growths of climbing
plants, and support them as required. Clematis
Jackmani is, as usual, producing a cloud of
blossom ; it is still one of the best. Among the
largest flowered section C. languinosa is also
excellent; it looks well trained thinly amongst
other climbers. We have masses of its large
mauve blossoms peeping out amongst the foliage
of Wistarias, the two associating extremely well
together. The tallest varieties of Tropaeolum
will now be making a fine display; they are
valuable as temporary screens for hiding un¬
sightly objects, being of rapid growth and
extremely gay when in flower.

Pansies and Violas. —Continue to propagate
under hand-glasses or cloches Pansies and
Violas, for under anything like good treatment
they are all-the-year-round flowers, as they only
cease blooming when exhausted. The earliest
struck cuttings of such kinds as the Cliveden
Blue, yellow, and purple will now be rooted
sufficiently to be transplanted on to a good rich
open piece of ground, when, if kept moist at the
root, they will become good plants, full of bloom -
buds in the autumn, and in mild winters they
will continue to open a few blossoms and be
quite full of bloom with the earliest Snowdrops
and other hardy bulbs.

Sub tropical plants. —Fine-foliaged,or wdiat
are known as sub-tropical, plants should, when,
necessary, be supplied with abundance of wate r,
and the surface of the beds should be well
mulched with good rich manure, to check
evaporation and assist in the production of a
fine, healthy, luxuriant leafage, which consti¬
tutes the principal beauty and attraction of such
plants. The unsightliness of the manure may
be easily concealed by the mowings of lawns,
and the margins of the beds should be neat ly
covered with green Moss, which the occasioi aL
waterings will keep in good condition.

Marioolds. —There are few more handsome
and continuous border flowers than the Frcn ch
Marigold, blooming, as it does, from the prese nfe
time until it is cut down by frost. Those w ho
happen to have a good strain of striped or
edged kinds should now, as the plants come ii to
flower, remove all that are single or semi-doub e.
This not only greatly improves the appearai co
of what are left, but it is also necessary ill
saving seed, which is deteriorated by the p e-
sence of poor flowers. No seed should be sav id
except from the best double blooms. If 1 ho
strain is too dark or does not possess a sufficu nt
number of the rich, yellow-striped forms, oi is
deficient in size, a few plants of the Afric in
Yellow should be growm near or amongst the n.
These will cross with and improve the Frei ch
varieties, both in colour and size ; but this m sfc
not be repeated every year, or they will becc no
too yellow.

Pkntstemons and Delphiniums. —Pents be-
mons arc just coming into bloom, and the gr< w-
ing shoots must be carefully fastened to stic :s.
Pentstemons have a good effect in mi: ed
borders aud also in beds. Cuttings of them n ay
be put in now if the object be to attain a la ge
stock of plants, but the best time is Septem *er
cr $u October. - Delphljjwums are now in

Jdtt 12, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

207

any care which he may have taken with them.
Nothing now is required except to see that the
flowers are not injured by the wind.

Sprino flowers. —Those who grow common
spring flowers, such as Daisies, Pansies, Arabia,
Aubrietias, Forget-me-nots, &c., may now sow
seeds in cold frames, pricking them out when
ready ; they will thus make good strong plants
by the time the bedding plants have played
their part. The above may also be propagated
by means of cuttings or root division ; indeed,
seeds of most perennials may now be sown in
nursery beds, and a few annuals in borders for
late flowering. A mulching of well-rotted
manure given to beds of Asters, Stocks, Zinnias,
Helichrysums, &c., will materially assist in
developing their flowers and deepening their
colour.

Phloxes. —These beautiful summer-flowering
plants, if grown in a situation where the roots
of deciduous trees or evergreens can interfere
with them, require plenty of water at and
about the time of their opening their flow ers.
They are strong-rooted plants, and need a
good deal of sustenance. If allowed to become
dry they are sure to suffer from the attacks of
black thrips, which get into and spoil the flowers
as soon as they open. Any plant, either flower¬
ing or fruit-bearing, grow n in the open air, that
is attacked with thrips, black or yellow, can
only be relieved from them by continuous use
of the syringe or garden engine, for they will
not remain where there is much moisture.
Plants that are allowed to flag through want of
water at the root appear most liable to their
attacks.

Gladioli. —A slight mulching of 1 inch or so
of rotten manure over the surface of Gladioli
beds will benefit them, and will help to keep
the soil moist and the roots cool, which has a
considerable influence in preventing the disease.
Tie the plants up before they get so large as to
be acted upon by the wind, using for this pur-

g >se a neat stick, such as a stout dry Willow or
azel the thickness of one’s finger, and be care¬
ful when inserting it not to thrust it dow’n so
near the roots as to injure them.

HARDr Ferns. —These, unless well looked to
and properly supplied with water, both overhead
and at the roots, will soon present a shabby
appearance, as thrips are sure to attack them.
Where bulbous plants and others of a semi-
wild character are grown in suitable portions of
the hardy fernery, as they always should be,
the less interference they receive in the way of
trimming or removal of leaves the greater will
be their strength and capacity for blooming next
year. It is a great mistake, for the sake of ap¬
pearances, to denude such plants of their foliage,
as is frequently the case, long before it has died
off and ceased to be useful, the effect being to
*top the maturation of the bulb or crown of the
plant, as the case may be, and prevent the forma¬
tion of flowers.

Shrubbery.

The clipping of all Evergreen hedges should
be completed as soon as possible, for if left till
late in the season they do not get well furnished
with green spray-like growth, and consequently
have a shorn look during the rest of the season.
All kinds of Evergreen, such as Laurels, that
make strong annual growths, may now be pruned.
Walks will need weeding and rolling frequently ;
where the ground is very much undulated we
find large tanks at all bends of the walks a great
saving, by checking and carrying off a largo
portion of the surface water. See that the
mouth of all drains is free from obstruction,
and clean out the sediment that collects in the
tanks, and which soon reduces their capacity
I for holding water.

I Flowering shrubs, as soon as they go out of
l bloom, should have dead and decaying flowers
| amoved, and when necessary the plants should
I be cut back. Box edgings may also now’ be
'* ‘rimmed, and all Sweet Brier ahd Privet hedges
aay be cut. The common Yew r is an excellent
* i*dge plant, but it is of slow* growth. There
ire, however, several other hardy coniferous
fces to which this objection does not apply,
*»ch 03 Cupressus Law r soniana, Thuja Lobbi,
^tnjopsis borealis, &c., all of which are well
*ted for ornamental hedges or screens. Where
*h already exist the present is the most suit-
time for cutting, juT rather clipping them ;
where such hedgesbr scifeeV c< ijsldlqrftarge-
Wcd plants, such as T+^ecminiuiiA Portugal

Laurel, it is then advisable to prune with the
knife, in order to avoid, as much as possible, the
mutilation of the leaves.

Fruit.

Vines in early and mid-season houses must be
thoroughly cleansed as they are cleared of fruit,
as future success depends upon the maintenance
of clean, healthy foliage until the bunch-produc¬
ing buds for another year are perfected.

Melons. —Where late Melons are in request
seeds of free-bearing hardy kinds may still be
sown. Cox’s Golden Gem and Gilbert’s Victory
of Bath answer well, and produce the best
flavoured fruit, w'hen growm in pots, plunged in
a bottom heat which can be maintained at
90 degs. through the last stages of swelling and
ripening. Strong plants for fruiting in Septem¬
ber may be planted out in pits or frames where
they can have the benefit of good linings, or, better
still, w’armth from a hot-water pipe when days
decrease in length and nights become cold.
The soil best adapted for late crops is a strong
loam, to w hich old lime, rubble, or charcoal may
be added. Rich manure should be avoided, but
W'arm stimulating liquid may be used for water¬
ing the roots and damping all available surfaces
after the fruit is set.

Hardy fruits. —Trees of all kinds growing
against walls should not be allowed to carry
more young wood than is absolutely required
for the production of next year’s crop; and, after
properly cleansing from insects, they should be
neatly tied or nailed in. To keep Peaches and
Nectarines free from spider and to encourage
the spread of surface roots, a good mulching of
stout manure laid on the borders, copious water¬
ing, and occasional washing with the hose will
be necessary, as fine full-flavoured fruit cannot
be obtained from trees that are infested with
insects. Trees that were grafted in March will
now require attention to staking to prevent in¬
jury from wind and rain. When this has been
done the ligature may be cut or untied, and all
gross shoots which emanate from the stocks
shortened back. To keep a supply of fine Straw¬
berries old beds should be broken up and a cor¬
responding breadth of deeply trenched and
heavily manured ground planted annually w’ith
runners from maiden plants. August is the best
month for planting.

Vegetables.

Cropping vacant ground. —Any ground fall¬
ing vacant should at once be re-cropped with
Cauliflow'ers, Broccoli, Kales, or Coleworts ; no
preparation is necessary except clearing it of
weeds, as, without exception, all the Cabbage
tribe do best in firm soils. Should there be any
occasion, through drought, to water these plants,
it is most effectively done when they are planted
in drills, and this being our invariable rule
we are able to recommend the practice, and it
also renders unnecessary high ridging up.

Celery. —The last planting of Celery should
now be got out; ground that has been cleared
of early Peas, Spinach, &c., is usually in good
heart for this late planting. Throw out shallow
trenches—single spit only—2 feet wide and
3 feet apart, dig in the trench the best manure
that can be had, and plant out double lines of
plants at 9 inches from each other ; w’ell water
and mulch with manure ; they wflll then require
no further attention till earthing up is needed.
This operation will now’ be necessary in the case
of the earliest planted, prior to which
thoroughly soak with manure water, or, in lieu,
sprinkle guano between the plants and w r ater it
in.

Cabbage. —For several years our main plot has
followed Onions. As soon as these are cleared
off the ground is freed of weeds, drills are drawn
as mentioned above, and inasmuch as wc never
had a bad plantation it is clear that more
elaborate culture is unnecessary. Of course the
ground is alw’ays extra w’ell prepared for Onions,
anti in cases where this is not done it would be
desirable to dig and manure before planting the
Cabbage—operations for which there is little
time compared with the winter months, and
this is another reason for adopting the practice
of extra culture for Onions, and making it serve
for Cabbages also.

Lettuce and Endive. —Make another sowing
of Lettuces and Endive ; thin out those pre¬
viously sown, and if necessary transplant,
though the better plan is always to sow thinly

where they are to mature, and to thin out to th
roper distance as soon as large enough t
andle.

Ridge Cucumbers, Vegetable Marrows
and Tomatoes should be gone over at least one
each week for the purpose ef regulating, train
ing, and stopping their growths, and, in th
case of Marrows and Cucumbers, surface-soilinj
whenever the roots appear on the surface.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

THE SATIN FLOWER

(SISYRINCHIUM GRANDIFLORUM).

Wno would imagine that this lovely plant wa>
as hardy as a high alpine flower, and strong
enough to withstand the cold rains of Februar>
or the winds of March ? The plant is altogethei
more slender and graceful than any other open-
air plant with which we are acquainted. Its
Rush-like foliage, growing erect and tufty, has
doubtless suggested its popular name of Rush
Lily, a name which to some is easier remem¬
bered and more euphonious than that given it
by botanists. When well and fully grown it is
from 12 inches to 15 inches high. The flower-
stems are intermingled with the foliage, and
are about the same height. The blossoms are
usually borne in pairs, produced on slender
stalks drooping out of the membraneous sheath
called a spathe. One flower usually expands a
day or so before the other, and if the stem i*
cut just as the first flower begins to open,
the second one will succeed it as if it were
still on the plant. Interesting as the plant is
in the open border, it seems almost a pity to
leave such delicate beauty to the mercy of the
weather ; and as the flowers last long in perfec¬
tion when cut, it is best to have a few’ in a vase
indoors, w'here their beauty can be thoroughly
enjoyed. We have said it is a hardy plant, but
the term “hardy ” is subject to conditions, for in
some localities, particularly if the soil is sur¬
charged with water in winter, it will succumb
to hard frosts.

Hardiness. —In light soils it is perfectly
hardy, but even under such circumstances the
plant seems always grateful for a little pro¬
tective mulching during winter, such as a short
litter or Bracken. Its normal flowering time is
in April and May, but it blooms in some gardens
in warm localities as early as the middle of
March if the w’eatlier is sufficiently mild. The
early bloom is accelerated by a good mulching
of litter put round the plants in autumn, which,
moreover, prevents them suffering from violent
changes in the way of weather. This early
bloom, however, is never so beautiful as that
produced in the latter end of April and May,
w’hen the days are longer and warmer.

There are two forms of this plant, the one sup¬
posed to be typical, distinguished by its very
fine vinous-purple blossoms, the other called the
album or white variety, having flowers of spot¬
less white, save the gold-tipped tufts of stamens.
It is a hard matter to say which is the more
beautiful. Both are charming kinds, and worthy
of the attention of every flower lover. In both
the petals exhibit a transparency seen in few-
other fhnvers, and certainly in no other hardy
plant. This is not a new’ plant, having been
introduced so far back as 1826. It is a native
of that tract of country in the vicinity of the
Columbia River which was explored by the
botanical collector, Douglas, and it w’as by hi in
it was first sent home. It was named S. Douglasi
by Dietrich, in compliment to its discoverer, but
the name which Douglas gave the plant is re¬
tained on account of priority of date.

The culture of this plant is simple. It likes
a good friable soil, such as may be found in
most kitchen gardens. Some say it likes a
shady place, but we have always seen it do best
in the open in full exposure, but it is best to
shelter it from strong winds in some way, as
they tear and knock the plants about so badly.
To propagate it the plants should be lifted in
autumn, and the tufts pulled carefully into as
many pieces as are required, alw ays leaving a
sufficiency of roots on each piece to start it
into grow th. The pieces should be planted im 4
mediately in light soil, placing a little sand
around the roots, in order to induce the forma¬
tion of new rootlets. : Fibrous-rooted-plauts
such as t-His is require careful handling when
propagated, fai]th? roots goon suffer. Some

208

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 12 , 1884 .

grow this plant well in pots for greenhouse deco¬
ration in spring, and a very pretty plant it is
for the purpose. There are about ten other
hardy species of Sisyrinchium in gardens, but
singularly enough this is the only one really
worth growing, though S. anceps, striatum, and
convolutum might perhaps be tolerated in a full
collection.

THE GREAT ST. BRUNO’S LILY.

(ANTHERICUM LILIASTRUM.)

This is one of the finest of hardy plants, and
one of the easiest to grow. It only requires to
be planted in deep free sandy soil, when it will
grow vigorously, and in early summer throw up
spikes of snowy white Lily-like blossoms 3 feet
in height. In dry soils a good mulching with
rotten manure would be a great help to it,
and in early spring the plants must bo ex¬
amined for slugs and caterpillars, to attacks of
which they are rather liable. Propaga¬
tion of this Lily is effected by division
of the roots in autumn, which is the
best time to plant, or it may be raised
from seed when it can be obtained.

HARDY BORDER PLANTS.

One has only to take a walk in the
garden in May to see of what use hardy
plants are and what a wealth of floral
beauty they afford at that early period,
but many as there were in bloom then,
their numbers are probably more than
double now, a fact which shows of what
great value they are, either for making
borders gay or for cutting. Among the
more noteworthy the following deserve
special mention:—

Daphne Cneorum, although old, is
still unrivalled among prostrate growing
shrubs, forming dense masses of colour,
as every shoot is terminated with clusters
of rosy pink blossoms, exhaling a most
delicious perfume. Where this Daphne
seems most at home is trailing over
rockwork, or depending from banks or
other elevated positions, where, if the
soil is suitable, it is sure to succeed re¬
markably well. Some have much difficulty
in getting it to grow and in effecting an
increase, but in most parts it spreads and
roots readily from layers. All we do when
we wish to augment the stock is to partly
bury a plant by covering the branches
with sharp, sandy earth ; they then root
in about a year, and in spring may be
severed, lifted with good balls, and trans¬
planted. Plants may also be obtained
from cuttings, but that is a much slower
process, as the pieces taken off must
necessarily be small, and it is some time
before they get to any great size.

Phlox Nelsoni forms a capital com¬
panion plant, and being of a trailing
nature is well adapted for the same kinds
of situation, where its profusion of starry
flowers are shown off to the greatest
advantage. To plant near the Phlox,

Lithospermum prostratum should not
be forgotten, as, blooming at the same
time, which it does, and having flowers of
as rich and deep a blue as a Gentian, the effect is
most charming. As its specific name implies, it is
of prostrate or procumbent habit, and only lifts its
slender branches a few inches from the ground,
which, where the soil suits it, it covers with a thick
carpet, and blooms profusely from all the young
growths. The way to propagate it is to take
cuttings from the half mature shoots, and insert
them in sharp sandy peat pressed firm, when
they should be covered with a bell-glass or
handlight, and kept shaded in a cold frame or
north border till rooted.

Alstrcemerias are now opening and will soon
be at their best, and, taking into consideration
how exceedingly showy and lasting they are,
the wonder is that they are not more cultivated,
but this may be through people having failed
with them, owing to planting them where the
position was not warm enough, or .the soil suffi¬
ciently light and well drained. To be success¬
ful with them and grow them well they must
have a sunny border sloping to the south, and
if close under a high wall or a fence so much the
better, as not onlyyar® Alstrcemerifcs apt to be
injujrpd by frosts si wiitSp i \AJlWkre very

liable to have their young tops cut by cold winds
in the spring, as they are out of the ground early,
and rather tender when they first make their
appearance. The way to prepare for them is to
trench the ground deeply and add plenty of leaf-
mould and sand, -when the plants should be
planted, if dormant, 0 inches beneath the surface,
and if growing, as much below as the tops will
allow, which enables the tubers to strike down
and keep out of the grip of hard frost. A good
plan of starting with Alstrcemerias is to sow
seed scattered thinly, and covered about an
inch deep, which should be done where the
plants are to remain, as they cannot well be
transplanted. One of the most striking subjects
in herbaceous borders at this time is
Antiiericum Liliago, which has very strong,
tall branching spikes of white flowers with dark
stripes up the petals. Anyone wanting a plant
for naturalising in the wild garden, or planting
in the foreground of shrubs, or by the side of

The Great St Bruno’s Lily (Anthcricum Liliostrum niajus),
showing habit of growth.

water in conspicuous places, will find this just
the thing, and, being a strong grower, it is
quite able there to take care of itself. The
mode of increase is by division, which may be
effected any time during the winter or spring,
when it may be cut through, and pieces removed
by the aid of a spade. Another plant that lends
itself to be treated in the same way, and suitable
for similar positions is Solomon’s Seal, which,
from its gracefully arching stems, laden with
silver-coloured bell-shaped blooms, and covered
with delicately-tinted pea-green foliage, is
always a striking and pleasing object, wherever
placed.

The Day Lilies, too, especially Hemerocallis
flava, which has heads of showy yellow flowers
almost as large as Amaryllises, are remarkably
fine, and should be in every garden of any size
and pretension, as they make a grand show.
H. Kwanso is a very strong growing variety,
having rich brownish-coloured blooms, and
there is also a beautifully variegated form of
the same kind, that has much white in the long
broad leaves, which in a young state are very
nice looking, and plants of it are quite worth

growing in pots. Where these Day Lilies do
best is near water or in damp soil, where they
soon attain a large size, and have a striking
appearance.

Plantain Lilies (Funkias) are also plants of
noble aspect, the most remarkable among them
being F. Sieboldi, a kind that has magnificent
foliage, as not only is it large and Palm-like,
but the colour is quite unique, being of a bluish
tint of green and the surface glaucous. The
beauty of this Funkia does not end here, as it
sends up stout flower-stems, which bear blooms
in shape like those of Lilies, and the smaller
sorts, like those of F. ovata, are very useful for
cutting. To see F. Sieboldi at its best it must
be planted in deep rich soil, where it can have
partial shade and plenty of moisture, which
bring out the peculiarities of its fine leaves, and
enable them to attain their fullest development.

F. ovata is best for borders, where, in early
summer, the variegated section, of which there
are many, have a choice and distinct
appearance.

Peonies, both tree and herbaceous
kinds, are simply grand, their large, full
flowers, so richly coloured, being gorge¬
ously beautiful, and producing a striking
effect when seen in borders backed up by
low-growing shrubs, a position for which
they are specially adapted, and the tree
varieties also look well standing as single
specimens on lawns. The way to pro¬
pagate these latter is to graft them on
pieces of roots of the herbaceous sorts,
which should be done in the spring,
when, if the grafted plants are placed
in close, gentle heat, they soon start and
unite, and may then be planted out in the
open. All the herbaceous varieties admit
of ready increase by division, the time
for effecting which is just as they are
beginning to grow, as then any wounds
made by severing the parts quickly heal
over instead of rotting, as they are apt
to do if the plants are interfered with
when they are dormant.

Columbines are quite a host in them¬
selves, there being now so many kinds,
and most lovely some of them are, my
favourites being the soft canary-coloured
A. chrysantha and the large and distinct
A. coerulea, which, being of a beautiful
shade of blue, contrasts well with the
other. Unfortunately, the last-named is
not a very good grow er, and many lose
it through the soil not being li^ht and
suitable, and not sowing sufficiently
often; to make sure of good flowering
plants, it is necessary to treat it as a
biennial, but A. chrysantha will stand
for years and get strong. What affects
this variety injuriously is the cold winds
in spring and late frosts, to avoid which
it should be planted in sheltered spots and
somewhat dry, elevated positions. A.
glandulosa is a fine, robust sort,
as are likewise most of the hybrids, and
many of these and the original vulgaris
may be easily naturalised by the sides of
wuodland w’alksorothersemi-wild places,
which they help much to enliven, and
where they look quite at home. The
w r ay to start with them is to clear patches
of ground here and there and plant strong
plants, which will then seed about and continue
to spread, as they are well able to hold their
own with the weeds and Grasses around.

Gentiana acaulis is, and has been, most
charming, lines of it being thickly studded with
its upturned blossoms of blue, which open and
close as the sun shines and sets. Patches of
this Gentian are all very well, but to see it in its
glory a long row of it is wanted, and the place
for that is along the side of a W'alk as an edging
or a margin to a border, where, if the soil is
tolerably deep and cool, it grows well, especially
if planted between partly buried, large flint or
other stones, which hold the moisture avnd entice
the roots round them. With care in watering,
and by shading a little after their removal*
Gentians may be divided and planted now as
under such favourable conditions they soon 'get
fresh hold and start off again.

Pyretiirumh are at present the gayest of the
gay, the colours being rich and varied, and the
flowers of the double sorts os large and full and
well formed aa those of French Asters. The
single kinds are also likely to come into rrren.t-

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jolt 12, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

209

avour, as they are light and elegant in outline,
.nd the ray florets exceedingly bright and effec-
ive. To grow Pyrethrums well they must have
wd soil where they can send their roots down,
nd find plenty to feed on.

Anemone fulgens and corouaria have been
aperb, beds of coronaria being a mass of blooms,
'liich have gone to seed, and this, if not picked
f hen ripe, is soon scattered broadcast by the
ind and distributed all over the garden. Those
ho have not these Anemones should sow at once

first to show being the good old D. formosum,
which will be quickly followed by the
charming D. Belladonna, one of the best of
the family.

IBERIS GIIIRALTARICA HYBRIDA is a mass of
pure white, and the Irises, both bulbous rooted
and common, are all aglow with their multi¬
tudinous spikes of grey blossoms, so curiously
formed and marked, and so rich and lovely in
colour, as almost to rival some of the choicest
of Orchids, which they greatly resemble. It is

THE VERBENA AND ITS CULTURE.

Few plants are more effective when well grown
and flowered than the Verbena; but from some
cause or other, although once extremely popular,
Verbenas are nowadays comparatively but
little grown. It is said that the bedding kinds
have degenerated to the extent of being no
longer reliable, but my opinion is that over-
propagation has had much to do with the
failures so often experienced in the outdoor

THE GREAT ST. BRUNO’S LILY (ANTHERICUM LILIASTRDM MAJUS). DRAWN LIFE SIZE.

la light, sunny border ; for though this would
.7c be«n better done sooner, the plants raised
bloom in the spring and afford plenty of
for cutting.

Campanulas of various kinds are just open-
the most showy being the biennial species
canthema media, plants of which make a
display, as they are full of big bell-
variously coloured blossoms from base
•ttmmit. To have them strong and good
seed should be sown now, and when
JSse plants pricked or planted out in row’s to
■ar on for removal early in autumn.
Delphiniums are hCst^ sending ujl tjieir
and one or: tw4ar|(al^cacij|LM)|i^_tho

only in light warm soils that the bulbous species
do well, but the English Irises will flourish any-
where if they can find plenty of moisture.

_ S. D.

Double white Lychnis (L. vesper-
tina). — This beautiful variety appears to flower
as freely as the old double Pink kind, and when
the two are grown together in large mixed beds
or borders, they have a pretty effect. The latter
has increased so fast that I have dotted hun¬
dreds of it about in semi-wild places, and very
pretty it looks. Its bright pink flowers, too,
when cut, might easily be mistaken by gaslight
for Carnations.—S.

culture of this plant. Very often only a few
potfuls are struck in autumn where thousands
are wanted by bedding-out time; therefore high
pressure must of necessity be resorted to during
the early spring months in order to secure the
desired quantity. These spring-struck plants
are, however, never equal to those propagated
late in the summer, and which have never
experienced undue excitement. Then, too,
more pains should be taken to secure good cut¬
tings. An experienced propagator once said to
me, “ It is all very well tp say that Verbenas
strike like weeds, but you must have the

210

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 12, 1884.

by experience, correct; the latter I do not
endorse, as good cuttings can be had by taking
proper measures. It is scarcely reasonable to
expect that plants which have profusely bloomed
under more or less trying circumstances should
furnish.good cuttings; and although in some
seasons, marked, perhaps, by unusual geniality
and under very excellent culture, the plants
may continue to produce succulent wood,
disappointment and failure are at times sure
to result from relying on flowering plants for
purposes of propagation. A safe and easy plan
is to set out a few plants by themselves, which,
being well attended to, and not being allowed
to flower, will be in good condition when the
time comes to take the cuttings. These need
not be the best plants, but such as are left over
at bedding-out time, as not flowering they will
naturally grow rapidly.

Propagation. —The last fortnight in August
I consider to be the best time for propagating
Verbenas, as there is then time to harden off
the young plants by full exposure to sun and
air before housing them. The points of the
shoots naturally make the best cuttings, but
any portion of the stem, if succulent, will do.
As the Verbena roots all down the stem, it is
not necessary to cut the cuttings to a joint.
Some make a practice of filling the pots nearly
to the rim with light, sandy soil, merely surfac¬
ing with sand, but I prefer to use enough pure
sand to allow of the complete reception of the
cuttings, for, although it is absolutely necessary
that they never flag from the time they are put
in until they make roots, it is just as indispen¬
sable that they are perfectly guaranteed against
stagnant moisture. A surfacing of some 2 inches
of silver sand will allow of the comparatively
free use of the water ; the sand will not, unless
drainage be defective, become sour or water¬
logged. A handlight or frame in a north aspect
is the best place one can have, and I need
scarcely say that the cuttings should be pre¬
served against draughts or hot air during the day,
keeping them in a general way quite close, but
giving a little air on very damp days, and re¬
moving the covering for an hour or so in the
morning, allowing it to remain off all night
when the weather is very still and warm.
Nothing invigorates them more than such a
dewy bath as they then get, and if they are
covered before the night’s dew dries off, they will
be sure to remain fresh all through the day
without watering, no matter how hot or dry the
weather may be. When they have made roots,
as will be shown by young shoots pushing from
the eyes, remove the covering except in very
wet weather, and eventually place them in a
sunny place until housing time. This treat¬
ment will give strong, bushy, well-hardened
plants, very different indeed from those put in,
as is often the case, so late that they are barely
rooted by October. I should, however, mention
that when the pots can be plunged in gentle
bottom heat, the cuttings will root more surely
and readily. Where large quantities of Ver¬
benas are required it is often found necessary to
resort to spring propagation, in which case
there is even greater need to secure a good and
early strike the previous summer. With a
good command of heat from February till May
one may work up a stock of many thousands
from a few potfuls of cuttings. By continually
taking off the tops, which will under favourable
conditions be young plants in less than a fort¬
night, it will soon gtve a crop, also increase will
go on at a very rapid rate indeed. The stock
plants should, however, be kept quite cool until
the beginning of January, and 50 degs. to 55degs.
will do for the first month. If the most is to be
made of the plants, do not pot off until the latter
end of April, as the check occasioned by so
doing will cause loss of time. What is sometimes
called the sand and water method is a good one
for Verbenas, saving trouble and giving good
results quickly. Ordinary pots are failed nearly
to the rim with sand, the cuttings are dibbled
in and the pans kept filled with water. In this
way they never flag, not even in the full sun,
and the pans may even be stood on a warm pipe,
roots being quickly made if the pans are kept
full of water. This plan involves less labour
than any other, and greatly facilitates potting
off, as the cuttings may be simply drawn out of
their semi-liquid rooting medium and potted
without check. Now-^liat it has been found
possible to fix the fcarioHakderidod colours of
Verbenas, the substrfcuijfckol ^eoamij plants for

those obtained in the ordinary way will, in all
probability, be extensively practised. Seedlings
always possess greater vigour than cuttings, and
this extra store of vitality and strength enables
them better to resist the disease and partial
paralysis which often seizes on the Verbena in
the open. Seed sown in warmth early in
February will, if the young plants are pushed
along for a time, give nice little specimens for
planting out in the latter end of May.

Outdoor culture. —It may appear super¬
fluous to warn Verbena growers against any¬
thing approaching stimulative treatment in
winter, but the necessity of keeping the plants
cool and almost in complete rest from November
until March is so great, and the neglect of it
so fraught with danger, that I venture to call
particular attention to this part of the subject,
Not that I approve of the extreme cool treat¬
ment oftentimes practised, and which consists
in simply keeping out frost. The very low tem¬
perature, accompanied by the great amount of
humidity, which so oftens prevails for some days
together, is not good for Verbenas; they like
a dry atmosphere, and consequently a little fire
heat in periods of cold damp weather. The
foliage then remains green and healthy, and
the roots continue in their normal state of
activity. They are full of restrained vigour,
and go ahead finely when set out in the open
ground later on. Although the above remarks
may not appear to harmonise with the accom¬
panying heading, they do so really, as on the
winter management depends to a great extent
the progress in summer, and the difference
between plants which have been wisely managed
and those which have been allowed to struggle
through as they may is really marvellous. A
mistake often made is that of keeping the plants
too long under glass. After the middle or indeed
the beginning of March the proper place for
Verbenas, intended for bedding out, is a cold
frame, as whatever growth is made from that time
onwards, should be, as it were, hardened as it is
made. The lights being pulled off on fine days
and left off during the night in balmy weather,
both foliage and wood retain great substance,
and the plants are in this manner better pre¬
pared for their permanent positions in the open
than by any other means. One great advantage
gained by this treatment is that of being able to
plant out at a much earlier date, as the plants
are thereby endowed with such a hardy consti¬
tution as to bear with much indifference the cold
nights and bleak winds incidental to the earlier
part of the month of May ; whereas, when kept
constantly under glass until the middle of May
they can scarcely be set out before the last week
of that month. The plan commonly followed
of potting Verbenas off singly into small pots,
where they are eventually to be planted out, is
not a good one. The better way is to put two
plants into the same pot, one on each side of it,
as then the separation which takes place at plant¬
ing time loosens the soil and the roots somewhat,
and they always seem to thrive better in this
way than when set out with balls entire. From
May 20 to the first week in June is the time
most often chosen for planting, but if you desire
an early bloom, and wish to see the Verbena
at its best, do not be later than the end of
April, but of course some little protection will
be needed should hard frosts occur. Flower¬
pots will do very well, and when the days are
very cold they may be left on all day, as
sufficient light will enter by the drainage holes,
especially if they are enlarged a little. I have
seen fine beds of Verbenas grown in this way in
light soils, when by the ordinary method there
would be but little chance of succeeding.
Where the natural soil is very porous some en¬
deavour should be made to render it more firm
and holding. A few barrow-loads of clay laid
on in winter and worked in when it crumbles in
spring will work wonders, but good sound loam
is still better. Verbenas like good rich earth,
but beware of raw manure, which will do more
harm than good. Manure should be not less
than twelve months old when used for them.

Pot culture. —The flower gardener may
certainly pass his time less profitably than in

f ro wing a few specimen plants of Verbenas, and
think many more would do so did they but
know how many fine varieties there are which
in richness, brilliancy, delicacy of colouring,
and general effectiveness are surpassed by
scarcely any other summer blooming plant. The
fact is a very large proportion of the numerous

kinds of Verbenas which have been raised during
the last few years are not quite happy in the open
air, being, probably, too nigh bred to resist the
extremes of moisture and drought to which out¬
door plants are often subjected ; but under glass
they bloom well, the trusses coming remarkably
large, much larger than the best outdoor cultu re
can effect. In order to succeed with the
Verbena as a pot plant, all that one has to do is
to select free autumn-struck plants, and grow
them along briskly in a cool greenhouse or frame,
pinching now and then during the early portion
of the season, shifting before they get root-
bound, and keeping them free from greenfly.
The last shift should be made in June into 8-inch,
pots, at the same time inserting four or five
stakes round the edge of the pots to train the
shoots to. Be sure not to coddle, but to give
abundance of air, and if mildew appears dust at
once with sulphur. Good fibrous loam,. with
some well decayed manure in it, is the best soil
for them. C.

The blue-flowered TropsBOlum (T.

azureum).—I observe that “ J. D.” includes this
in his list of hardy blue-flowered plants, but
may I ask what is his actual experience as to
the behaviour of this plant in the open air ? I
cannot help thinking that your correspondent
has over-estimated the hardiness of this beauti¬
ful climber, and I shall be much surprised to
learn that it has resisted with impunity the cold of
an average English winter. I do not doubt the
hardiness of the tubers ; they are, probably, as
enduring as those of a Lily, under favourable
conditions as regards soil and other matters ;
but the tops are tender and succulent, and are
not likely to brave more than five or six
degrees of frost uninjured. Did this Tropa?olum
start into growth in spring, like speciosum
and polyphyllum, the case would be different;
but it must be borne in mind that both
azureum brachyceras and tricolorum com¬
mence to grow in September, making, when
doing well, some 3 feet of growth by winter.
For this reason alone we have to give them the
shelter of a glass-house during the winter
months. And there is no way Jf retarding
them, unless, perhaps, they could be stored in
some place where the temperature is a little
above freezing, for, even if kept out of the
ground and quite dry, they start away into
growth at their appointed time. So anxious,
indeed, are they to fulfil their appointed mission,
that I have known them make a foot of growth
when kept suspended in bags in a dry, cool
place ; it is, therefore, of the first importance to
get them potted up quite by the last week in
August, which many fail to do, hence the frequent
failures in the culture of these beautiful dimbers.
At one time I grew these tuberous rooted
Tropceolums rather largely, both trained to the
rafters of a cool greenhouse and on trellis, also
in pots and a prepared border. The latter
place is by far the best, as the plants grow with,
great luxuriance, a single bulb bearing hundreds
of flowers. With azureum I was very successful,
and I was all the more proud of my success as
I found that it was by no means common to find
this plant in good condition ; indeed, very few
English gardeners seemed to know anything of
it, even good plantsmen had never seen iior
heard of a blue-flowered Tropa?olum. I remem¬
ber once having a good specimen some 2 feet
high by 18 inches through, in an 8-inch pot. It
was smothered with its lovely blue white-
centred flowers, and Mr. Veitch’s manager
very much admired it, saying it was the best
specimen he had ever seen of it. As a fact, this
Tropreolum is by no means easy to grow well.
The main difficulty seems to be in keeping the
roots active, the slightest stagnation causing the
tips of the shoots to go blind. It is far from
being so vigorous as its congener, tricolorum,
and requires a rooting medium, which is, with
care, secure against becoming in any way unfitted
for the healthy activity of the tender fibres.
Nothing I have tried is so good as fibrous peat,
with a little leaf-mould and plenty of silver sand
in it. If pressed in tolerably firm, there is but
little danger of its becoming sour. YV ithout
good drainage there is no hope of success,
and an 8-inch pot should have quite an
inch of crocks at the bottom, laying
thereon some very!-fibrous material, to
eep th.e. finer particles from choking it. L>o
lot!be later than the first week in’September in
pott jiij ifle^iuai|i size 6-inch.

July 12, 1884.^

GARDENING ILLUSTIL4TED

211

pots will be large enough, but a bulb in its
highest state of development will require an
8-inch pot. Some put the bulbs in small pots
and shift them into their blooming pots later
on, but this gives additional trouble, for which
there is but little advantage, and shifting these
climbers is a ticklish matter, the stems being so
fragile that very delicate handling is necessary
to preventtheir being broken off in the operation.
If you want to get the best results obtainable by
pot culture, plunge the pots in ashes or light soil
in a deep frame, water after potting sufficiently
to just moisten the soil through. Dispense
with watering as much as possible until the

S laut3 get well into growth, as roots are pro-
uced so much more finely when the soil is kept
in an equable state of moisture, always approach¬
ing, but never quite reaching, dryness. Cover¬
ing the frame with a mat until the growth
is well commenced aid the grower to main¬
tain these desired conditions, just sprinkling
the surface soil once a day on tine days. As the
shoots advance in growth, they must, of course,
be trained to a trellis of some kind, and every
opportunity must be embraced of exposing
them to the genial strengthening influences of
fine autumn weather, leaving them open to the
refreshing dews and invigorating air of night.
No amount of care in winter will make up
for loss of time in autumn, and if the
shoots are not from 1 foot to 3 feet in length,
according to the size of the bulb, by the middle
of November, everything has not been done
which should have been done. I would particu¬
larly emphasize this detail, as I often see it
recommended to pot the bulbs in November,
which is just two months too late. Good time
has been lost, and this can never be regained
and actual experience convinces me that no one
can grow Tropreolum azureum and its congeners
well unless the potting is done by mid
September. As to winter and spring treatment
it is plain enough. Keep out frost, but never
use fire heat unless obliged ; water moderately
until March, and then freely, destroying
greenfly as it appears ; give plenty of air in
mild weather, shading from hot sun in April
and May, and you will say that you never saw
anything more lovely than this azure-flowered
Tropaeolum.— By fleet.

Arrangement of bedding plants.—
The article by “ J. D.,” that appeared in
Gardening under the above heading, although
including many valuable hints, yet contained
tenets which to me appear unsound. Perhaps
if “ J. D.” had read some of the many conflicting
theories of the beautiful by philosophers and
artists, from Socrates to Ruskin, he would not
have been so ready to have dogmatized on the
subject, and to have branded the florist as vulgar
and tasteless. Before we can consent to turn a
cold shoulder to a class of zealous workers that
has done so much to promote and keep alive
that interest in gardening and flower culture
so characteristic of Englishmen, we require
stronger motives than those adduced in the
article in question. Mr. Malcolm Morris, in
his lecture before the Congress of the Inter¬
national Health Exhibition, ably and justly
denounced the ajstheticism of the hour, the out¬
come of the present artistic movement. This
aesthetic craze has a much greater mischievous
tendency to gardening than the bedding mania
which it affects to displace. This threw many
of our most beautiful florists’ flowers nearly out
of cultivation, that, if consistently pushed to its
ultimate consequences, would make a sweep of
the whole, and convert our gardens into a
wilderness of weeds. Our correspondent speaks
as if picturesqueness was the only esthetic
quality that has a legitimate place in the
(lower garden. Harmony, proportion, keep¬
ing order, and fitness are jestnetic qualities
that have an equal right to be represented there.
What is the end to be aimed at in the arrange¬
ment and the management of a garden ?
i it not to give the greatest amount of pleasure
• the greatest number of our pleasurable
^acepti bilities ? In all our plans for beautifying
le flower garden the conditions of fitness to
k, f. and situation must be taken into account,
hike woodlands, the meadows, and the hedge¬
rs we are delighted with the beauty of nature
Jrfiio her own free will; but in the garden
qais-a different set of conditions and require-
Oeata present themselveff. In the r former

lartance rW e
fa the latter

31U. inernsm^. xn tne i
expect simple unaided naiup
case we mVst inxvl aitSfid

f *nly,
feature

combined, and there must be evidences of the
operations and agencies of skill, industry, and
plentitude of means to an end. The intellect
co-operating with the senses in our perceptions
of beauty gives us a desire for and an apprecia¬
tion of marks of progress, hence the pleasure
with which we introduce into our gardens the
improvements of the florist. Of course, these
improvements must be on the lines laid down by
nature, an extension and an intensification of
what strikes us as most beautiful there. The
genuine beauty of the flower garden stands in
the same relation to that of rural scenery as the
randeur of a noble work of architecture
oes to the sublimity of the rocks and crags
of mountain scenery, and to banish the
legitimate beauties of the flower garden and
endeavour to squeeze into it the wild beauties of
country scenery is just as reasonable as it would
be to expect an improvement if the beautiful
structure, York Minster, were razed to the
ground and a confused heap of unhewn boulders
substituted on its site. Brilliancy Is an aesthetic
quality ; every gleam of sunshine tells us so ;
literature abounds with allusions to it as such.
In the mind of the Christian it is a prepondera¬
ting element of his anticipations of future de¬
lights, and it is not to be scared from its right¬
ful place by directing against it the epithet
‘ ‘ staring. ” It must be remembered that to hide
the outlines of a bed is to rob the garden of one
of its sources of giving pleasure—viz., the con¬
templation of the skill with which these out¬
lines are executed, and to cause the flowers to
appear as if springing up from the turf violates
the idea of fitness. No doubt the poor gar¬
dener has his ideas of fitness grated harshly on
when he has to cut the Grass. No doubt the
feeling of ruggedness (like any other unpleasant
emotional feeling) will in time wear off, especi¬
ally if one can persuade himself it is an excel¬
lency instead of a defect. An inhabitant of the
town that once lived in the country not only
loses the painful impressions produced by the
sight of ugly, smoky streets, which so dis¬
tressed him on his first arrival; but in time he
begins to like it, and even to prefer town to
country. If an individual’s surroundings has
so much to do with forming his taste, how comes
it that a professional gardener is less likely than
anybody to see beauty in a weed, or to be able
to treat plants in an artistic manner because he
came from the country ? He certainly has come
from the same school as that from which art has
derived its elements of beauty, and if he was an
apt and an industrious scholar I can see no reason
why he should not be as well able as other
people to impart into the garden those imita¬
tions of nature which “J. D.” calls art.—
L. C. K.

Culture of the Sunflower. —Of late years
Sunflowers have become favourites for decora¬
tive purposes in many places, and if not yet to
be found in every garden it is not because there
is no desire to possess them. They are easy to
cultivate and sure flowerers, the only secret as
regards perfect success lying in sowing the seed.
Last year we sowed some seeds in a hothouse
early in March, and from the plants thus raised
we had blooms in July 15 inches in diameter.
More seed was sown in the open ground in
April, but the plants produced in this case did
not bloom until far on in the autumn, and were
never so satisfactory as those raised and brought
forward under glass. I would, therefore, advise
all who have the means to raise their Sunflowers
under glass, and treat them like half-hardy bed¬
ding plants. We do not bestow on them much
labour or attention. Two or three dozen seeds
are sown in an 8-inch pot in any light
soil, and this is placed in a house or hotbed
until the plants are pushing through the soil,
when they are brought close up to the glass,
and there they remain until they arc about

3 inches high, when they are turned out of their
pots and planted in our cutting boxes, which
are 2 feet 6 inches long, 18 inches wide, and

4 inches deep. A few rough leaves are placed at
the bottom of each box, which is then filled up
with a mixture of loam and leaf-soil or old
Mushroom bed manure, and into this the Sun¬
flower plants are dibbled from 2 inches to
3 inches apart. In this way half-a-dozen boxes
hold a great many, and they do not take up
much space. As the boxes are filled they are
placed in a temperature of GOdegs., and here
the young plants soon begin to grow away
rapidly, reaching a height of from 18 inches to

2 feet in a month’s time. By the beginning of
May they are hardened off and are ready for
planting out anywhere according to fancy.
Some plant them in groups by themselves,
others place them in herbaceous borders, and
not a few plant them about shrubberies. A
deep rich soil is most suitable for them, as the
blooms never gain any great size in poor ground.
As soon as they are planted a stake should bo
put to each, and as the leading stem produces
the first blooin, this may be cut off as soon as it
is past its best, in order to induce the side
shoots to push up and also bloom. All strong
growing plants will do this, and they will con¬
tinue to produce a succession of flowers until well
into the autumn.—J. M.

Stocks for spring flowering.— For the
last three years we have had Stocks in bloom in
April, May, and June, and they are so very
useful then that their culture for blooming at
that time is well worth general attention. In
most places cut flowers are constantly in demand,
and when Stocks are in bloom thus earlv they
certainly rank amongst the most valued flowers
one can get from open-air borders. Their bright
and varied colours, and, above all, their sweet
sceut, delight everybody. They might be used
in many spring flower gardens, and where there
is no place for them in such positions they
might be grown in the borders of the kitchen
garden or in shrubberies ; indeed, when in
bloom they can hardly be out of place anywhere.
The varieties most suited for spring and early
summer blooming are the Emperor, Brompton,
and the Giant Cape. Seed of these should be
sown about the end of July in a bed or row
anywhere. It should be sown thinly, aud
covered over with about an inch of soil. The
young plants will soon come up and grow fast
in August and September, and in October or
November they should be transferred to their
flowering quarters. If sown and grown thinly
in the seed bed they will not become too crowded
before planting, and they may be drawn up on a
wet day and dibbled in where they are to grow.
Previous to planting, the ground should have been
dug up, and in doing this, if the soil is poor, it should
have a good coating of manure added to it, and
soils of all kinds should always have a dressing
of soot worked into them before the Stocks are
planted. This prevents them from being de¬
stroyed by maggots at the root—a common
occurrence, ana troublesome in many parts,
where precautions of this kind are not taken.
When planted they will take care of themselves
through frost or snow and all weathers, but if a
few have been left in the seed bed they may be
used to make up blanks in March. In that
month the plants will begin to grow, and then
the Dutch hoe should be run between them.
After this growth will go on rapidly and flowers
will soon make their appearance. In all Stock
beds there will be single and double flowering
plants ; the single flowering kinds some dislike
and pull them up, but this is a mistake, as
single sorts are just as pretty as the double
ones, and in a mixed bed or border they are
equally effective; besides, it is an easy matter
to save seed in autumn from spring-blooming
Stocks, and in many instances it would pay to
allow the single ones to remain in order to
secure this object. One thing is certain,
nothing can be more easily grown than Stocks
to flower in spring, as their culture is all in the
open air, a circumstance which alone ought to
secure for them the attention of all who have a
garden and who love bright-coloured fragrant
flowers.—J. M.

Hardy Ferns for shaded gardens.—

One frequently hears the remark made that
plants do not succeed in certain gardens, but on
inquiry it generally turns out that the plants
selected have not been suited to the positions
they occupy. Although some plants delight in
abundant sunlight, others are equally at homo
in deep shade, and it is only by observation as to
what conditions are most favourable for certain
plants, and selecting them accordingly, that
success can be achieved. In this locality, where-
cver the situation is open to sunshine, bright-
flowering plants are the favourites, and thus
many of our villa gardens are kept gay nearly
the whole year round, the latest Chrysanthe¬
mums not being long- removed before early
flowering bulbs and many other plants are in
blossom. But all gardens, .cannot have full
south aspects* ds,,, .qn bright

212

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 12 , 1884 .

summer days to find, instead of summer bedding
plants, gardens in shady places filled with the
verdant foliage of hardy Ferns and of other
plants that dislike sunshine. When well estab¬
lished it is surprising how effective even the
commonest of our native Ferns are planted in
shade, and how beautiful they make many an
otherwise uninteresting corner look ; even little
borders by hard paved yards or ground beneath
large trees where nothing else will grow may be
made cheerful by means of Ferns. Get together
a few of the largest and roughest stones that
can be obtained, and a load or two of good soil,
make irregular mounds here and there, and on
these plant the Ferns. Intermix with them a
few dwarf trailing plants, keep them well
watered, and they will soon produce a striking
effect.—J.

Spiraeas. —At the present moment nothing
in the hardy plant beds equals these for elegance
and showiness. S. Aruncus is a gem of the
first water ; we have plants of it from 4 feet to
5 feet high, covered with long feathery and
drooping spikes of white flowers. S. venusta
makes a capital companion plant; this also is
quite 4 feet in height, but the flower-spikes are
more upright, and the flowers a rich rosy pink.
S. palinata and S. Filipendula fl.-pl. are also
now in magnificent bloom, and should be in
every collection of hardy perennials. Our
plants are growing in light but deep loam that
has been well manured; they are exposed to full
sunshine, and they evidently like their quarters,
though the general impression is that they are
shade and moisture-loving plants.

11678.— Calceolarias. —The seeds should
be sown at once. They are of very small size,
and, if covered deeply in the soil, they do not
germinate at all. The best way is to mix some
sandy loam with the third part of leaf-mould ;
make it fine by sifting the rough portion of it.
Drain a 6-inch pot well, and fill it half full of
the rough portion ; the other half should be
filled up with the fine, making it smooth and
quite level. Sow the seeds thinly over the
surface, and just cover them with fine sand.
The pot containing the seeds should, at this
time of the year, be placed on the shady side of
a low wall or fence. In about two weeks the
young plants will appear, and in two or three
weeks more they may be carefully pricked out
in similar soil. When the plants are large
enough, pot them off singly in thumb pots ; as
they increase in size repot them in larger pots,
using a fourth part of decayed stable manure
with the soil. In winter the plants should be
placed on a shelf in the greenhouse near the
glass, or they may be grown in pots. The
plants dislike a dry, artificially-heated atmo¬
sphere in winter, while a degree or two of frost
will not hnrt them. The Calceolaria is a much
hardier plant than the Cineraria. It is very
liable to he attacked by greenfly, and is very
easily injured by it. By far the best way to
destroy it is by fumigating with Tobacco smoke ;
indeed, the plants should be fumigated several
times during the winter months to prevent the
appearance of greenfly.—J. D. E.

11671.— Violas and Pansies.— The broad
lines of demarcation between a Viola and a
Pansy are these—the Viola has more slender
growths, smaller flowers, produced in greater
abundance; the plants also stand drought better
than the Pansy. The original Violas of twenty
years ago have been much intercrossed with the
show Pansies, to obtain better formed flowers,
but it is at the expense of more delicate consti¬
tutions. The Pansy itself is the result of
cultivating and improving the wild Viola tri¬
colour of the fields. The primal source of the
bedding Viola of our gardens is Viola comuta.
—J. D. E.

11672.—Lilies of the Valley after flowering.—
If they are what are termed crowns they are little use
afterwards. Lily of the Valley clumps may either bo
grown in the pots they are in or planted out in the open
ground. They will in either case flower fairly well the
following season. As it grows naturally in woods, it will
do well in a shady place.—J. D. E.

Blue Polyanthuses. — I am able to confirm
" M. J.'s ” statement (in Gardening Illustrated, June
28 th) respecting a blue Polyanthus. I had plants in my
garden in Huntingdonshire thirty-six years since, and
regretted their disappearance, and have* been surprised
that no mention has been mode of them in nurserymen's
catalogues.—E. F.

- I have the blue Polyanthus. It is no myth. If

' M. J.” sends his addres* lovill send him flower in spring
(all being well).—C. G. BBrikn, Ardr«.voir-Ebvn*s.

^itizeaby i J X} |V;

TREES AND SHRUBS.

NOTES ON SHRUBS.

Azalea glauca. —This is especially valuable,
owing to the late season at which it flowers ; its
blooms, indeed, do not expand until after the
beauty of Azalea pontica and its varieties is over.
A. glauca is compact in habit, has glaucous
foliage, and bears clusters of pure white flowers
in great profusion.

Zenobia speciosa and its mealy-leaved variety
are both in bloom at the present time, and its
large noddling bells are also readily produced in
heat in spring, when they form pretty objects in
the conservatory. When grown under glass the
foliage of pulverulenta is even more hoary than
in the open air, and its flowers larger.

Pernettya mucronata is now a mass of tiny
white flowers, which contrast admirably with
its neat deep green foliage. Although the fruit
is generally regarded as the most ornamental
part of this plant, W'hen in blossom it is also
very handsome.

Crat.egus parvifolia.— The flowering season
of the Thoms is extended to quite the middle of
June by the Tansy-leaved kind (Crataegus
tanacetifolia), Cockspur Thorn (C. Crus-gaUi),
and the subject of this note (C. parvifolia).
This latter forms a bush about a yard high ; it
has ovate leaves and large solitary flowers, with
which it is thickly studded. In some speci¬
mens of it the flowers are nearly an inch in
diameter; their large size and the dwarf habit
of the plant render this Crataegus distinct from
all the others ; indeed, it more resembles a dwarf
form of Mespilus grandiflora than a Hawthorn.
It has long been known in England, but is
seldom seen in gardens.

Cotoneasters, such as buxifolia and rotundi-
folia, have quite an interesting appearance just
now, owing to the myriads of little white
flowers with which they are furnished. The
berries that succeed them are also very pretty,
but these plants are worth a place in the garden
for their foliage alone. On rockwork or sloping
banks these Cotoneasters are very valuable.

Dif.rvilla trifida. — Weigelas, to which
this shrub is nearly allied, seem to have almost
driven it from our gardens, as except in botani¬
cal collections it is seldom or never met with,
although both interesting and pretty—interest¬
ing from being the American representative
of the Weigela, and pretty from the number of
small yellow flowers which it bears.

Rubus spectabilis. — Among the different
Brambles are many forms, some rambling in
habit; but this is an erect, sparely-branched
shrub, generally very dense, owing to the pro¬
fuse way in which it produces suckers. Its
foliage somewhat resembles that of the common
Bramble, but is nearly always composed of
three leaflets, while the flowers are somewhat
drooping, rather contracted, and of a pleasing
purplish colour. It is a very handsome flower¬
ing shrub, as is also R. nutkanus, both of which
are much later than the handsome R. deliciosus,
whose large white flowers have been this season
so attractive in many places. R. nutkanus has
large Currant-like five-lobed leaves and pure
white flowers about 2 inches in diameter. With
me it flowers freely when not more than 3 feet
high, but in good soils it grotV’s larger.

Chionantihjs virginica (the Fringe Tree of
the United States).—So called from the narrow
strap-shaped petals giving to a raceme of its
flowers the appearance of a bunch of white
fringe. It is so different when in blossom from
all other shrubs, and withal so pretty, that one
wonders it is so rarely seen. In general aspect
it may be likened to a Lilac. It is said to grow
naturally in boggy places ; in England, however,
it does well in ordinary soil, but not where very
hot and dry.

The Carolina Allspice (Calycanthus floridus)
would be by many considered dull and uninte¬
resting were it not for the delicious fragrance of
its purplish blossoms, which, though not very
attractive to the eye unless closely looked into,
are not only quaint, but pretty. In a moderately
moist spot, and where slightly shaded from the
full rays of the sun, this Allspice will flower for
nearly three months in summer.

Olearia, or Eurybia Haasti. —With this
antipodean shrubby composite we are already
familiar, but Ozothamnus rosmarinifolius pre¬
sents to us yet another and a very desirable
plant. It is a dense-growing, much-branched

shrub, with small, Rosemary-like leaves, and
bears tiny white flowers in such numbers as to
almost hide the foliage. This Ozothamnus
appears to be about as hardy as Olearia Haasti,
and, like it, is very serviceable where small-
growing, free flowering shrubs are required.

Spiraeas.— Some of the Spiraeas are very use¬
ful shrubs when the situation is not too hot and
dry. When that is so they get stunted in
growth, and flower but sparingly. The follow¬
ing would be a good representative half-dozen—
viz., S. I^ouglasi, an erect-growing species,
reaching a height of about 6 feet, and bearing
dense terminal spikes of pretty pink flowers.
This Spiraea throws up suckers freely, and in a
suitable spot soon forms a large mass. S. ariae-
folia is a large shrub 8 feet or 10 feet high, and
bears light plume-like panicles of white flowers,
which are freely produced in summer. A large
plant of this kind when in flower forms a
striking object. Of S. hypericifolia there are
great numbers of varieties, some much inferior
to others ; but if one of the best is obtained it
forms, when in blossom, a grand bush. It is a
slender-growing kind, and throws out long
arching shoots, which are studded throughout
the greater part of their length with flowers.
They are arranged in clusters on small lateral
shoots, and are pure white in colour. S. callosa
forms a large clump some 6 feet high, and bears
deep rose-coloured flowers in large open corymbs.

The bright red hue of the young leaves also
adds to the beauty of this Spirma. S. nutans
or cuneata, though an erect shrub in the main,
has drooping branchlets, and bears clusters of
white or pinkish blossoms ; it is a free-grow’ing
kind, and has a very graceful outline. S.
Lindleyana has pinnate leaves, and is very dis¬
tinct from all the others just mentioned; its
season of flowering, too, is much later than
that of any of them. In good soil this Spiraea
reaches a height of 7 feet or 8 feet, and soon
forms a large mass. The flowers are white, and
borne in large terminal panicles towards the
end of the summer. Even when not in bloom
this Spiraea is very handsome.

Euonymuses in sheltered places are very
ornamental and w-ell worthy of cultivation. Of
japonicus there are two distinct golden forms,
one being rounder in the leaf and more yellow
than the other ; then, with the broad white
variegated kind (latifolius albus), and one with
yellowish green variegation, a good variety is
obtained. The box-like E. microphyllus is
about as hardy as the others. One that seems
proof against ordinary frost is E. radicans and
its variegated variety, neither of which have
been injured in that way, as far as I am aware,
and both of them are, from their spreading
habit, well adapted for rockwork, on
raised banks, or similar positions. Besides
this, they may be employed to cover -walls,
which they will do thoroughly, and, except a
little support at first, will scarcely require any
attention, as aerial roots are produced, just as
in the case of Ivy, which take a firm hold of the
bricks and support the plant. When in this
condition, after a height of 6 feet or 8 feet has
been obtained, shoots are often produced from
the upper portion, partaking less of the rambling
character and with much larger leaves—indeed,
quite different in appearance from the foliage
below.

Hollies afford plenty of variety, there being
green-leaved, white, and yellow variegated, and
one (Moonlight) in which the surface of the leaf
is suffused with gold. Some again are densely
spiny, some without spines, and others with,
broad, massive foliage. The Hedgehog Holly,
so called from its contracted leaf, the whole of
the upper surface of which is studied with
spines, is very curious, and it is also represented,
among the variegated leaved kinds. Ilex cor-
nuta has very distinct foliage, and is of dense
compact growth. A miniature shrub is Ilex:
crenata, the leaves of which are lanceolate 9
about 1 inch in length, and terminated by as*,
sharp point. Its growth is dwarf, and wheu
about a foot high it forms a pretty, neat-looking
shrub. There is a variety in which the leave a
are inarbled with yellow, a variegation which
in the sunshine is very bright and effective.

Alpha.

The Laburnum as a tree.— We have no
need to praise this for its beauty—recognised L>y
?iil—but it is not generally known how good are
ite claims to treesliip. It is usually seen as a low

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Joly 12, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

213

flowering tree. In the garden at Coolhurst, near
Horsham, we were charmed to see the Scotch
Laburnum a tree about 40 feet high. In flower
at the time, the distant effect of its golden
branches seen through the other trees was very
fine. It was sheltered by other trees, otherwise
it had taken its chance in the usual struggle for
life in the grove.—V.

Wistaria freely trained.—Nobody knows
the value of this shrub who sees it only as it is
trained over the top of a wall or along the side
of a house. No doubt walls, houses, old trees,
and the like form its best support, but its
picturesque beauty is not seen unless its shoots
are allowed to grow freely away from the sup¬
ports. We have never seen this so well
illustrated as at Coolhurst, where the Wistaria
grows boldly away from roof and wall, and is
beautiful in its picturesque branching. When
a splendid creeping shrub like this is obtained
people seldom get the best out of it, but plant a
single specimen in any vacant spot.—M.

llftjfi.— Pruning Berberis Darwini.—This, like
ali flowering shrubs, should be pruned after flowering, not
detaving the longer than the fading of the flowers, as they
arc produced on the current year’s growth, which must
nect^arily have the time to mature itself. If pruning is
deferred until later there will be but few flowers the
following year.—J. C. B.

NEW PAN SUSPENDER.

The accompanying illustration represents a
contrivance invented by Mr. F. Sander, of St.
Allans, for suspending small shallow pans,
instead of the usual way of suspending them by

Pan suspender.

means of wires attached to three holes in the
nm of the pan. The contrivance is at once
rimple and effective. It saves a deal of labour,
presents a better appearance, and is better in
everyway for the plant contained in the pan
than the plan ordinarily adopted. It consists
of a circular disk of sheet zinc, cut in sizes so as
to fit exactly the bottoms of the various sized
pans; in the centre of this is soldered a piece of
fetoufc galvanised wire with a hook at the top for
hanging on the wires under the roof. This
l hooked wire is passed through the base of the
1 pan, and the potting compost is placed around
l*-ie plant afterwards. The disk is made con-
l^ve, so as to hold a small quantity of water ;
|s.n*equently the plant does not dry up so much
when no provision of this sort is made.
pr*rt from the benefit which the plant derives
l* having sucl^a contrivance for holding water,
pans have a neater and tidier appearance, as
«y hang level and all one height, which is rarely
snanderthe ordinary plan; besides, thetrouble
**nking all the wires the same length is ob-
**ted, and the plant hangs freely without the
^•er of the leaves becoming injured by rub-
H against the wires, as is often the case with
*1 tnopsids and similar plants. Messrs,
'fer <!fc Co. have adopted the use of paus thus
hauled on an extensive scale, and at their
**ries at St. Albans may be seen thousands of
suspended in this way. Though used
7 % for Orchids, these s^sppndcrs are al^
for pans or pots c ' ' '

?e suspenders are also w<
3 cjjmtai^ii^j o v lrex

well

iSbos

THE MEALY BUG.

(DACTYLOPIUS ADONIDUM.)

There are few, if any, of the insect pests in our
hothouses, &c., that give greater trouble to hor¬
ticulturists or which injure plants more than
the subject of this article. When once it gets
a footing in a collection of plants it is only by
the greatest care and perseverance that it can be
eradicated. Every possible care, therefore,
should be taken to prevent the insect entering
our houses, as the female cannot fly or do more
in the way of locomotion than crawl slowly;
this is easier done than many persons imagine,
for it is obvious, considering the habits of the
insect, that if our houses are free from them
they will not find an entrance unless introduced
by some means. Many gardeners are of
opinion that most insects are generated spon¬
taneously without the intervention of any
parents ; but this idea is so absurd that no time
need now be spent in refuting it. The greatest
care should be taken when obtaining new plants
from a nursery or a friend, however particular
their previous owners may be, to be quite certain
that there are no mealy bugs on them ; and
though troublesome, it is a safe plan, and one
that may save much annoyance and trouble,
to thoroughly clean, with one of the in¬
secticides mentioned later on, every plant which
is introduced for the first time into our houses.
Were this always done there would be no
chance of the plants being contaminated. Any
woodwork, such as staging, &c., brought from
other houses should also be well cleansed. By
using these precautions not only will this, but
many other kinds of insects will be prevented
from obtaining access to our plants. If, how¬
ever, by some negligence or misfortune mealy
bug makes its appearance, do not delay attack¬
ing it, as it breeds with great rapidity. Some
gardeners are fond of saying they are soon
going to put the house to rights, and then they
will clean everything thoroughly ; this sounds
well, but it is far better to do it at once, and
get rid of the mealy bug before it has time to
spread, or the house may require cleansing
several times before they are finally disposed of,
as they hide themselves, not only in parts of
the plants where they are most difficult to
get at, but in various cracks and chinks in the
walls and woodwork of the building. A great
variety of plants are attacked by these insects—
Vines, Figs, Pines, Melons, Cucumbers, and
nearly all plants grown in warm greenhouses
and stoves. Orchids, however, fortunately are
but seldom attacked. A great number of
methods and recipes have been given for destroy¬
ing this insect; among the most useful are the
following :—

When Vines are attacked, the rough, loose
bark of the stems should be removed by scrap¬
ing with a blunt knife. This process should not
be carried too far, as is sometimes the case, for
by scraping off too much of the outer bark the
more tender layers are exposed, which may be
injured by the insecticide, the great object in
removing the outer loose bark being to prevent
any eggs or young insects remaining in a posi¬
tion where they might not be reached by the in¬
secticide. Every branch and stem should then be
well cleaned with a stiffish brush, and then painted
over with 2 lb. of flowers of sulphur, 2 lb. of
soft soap, and a wineglassful of turpentine,
mixed into a paste with warm water ; bail 1 lb.
of Tobacco in a covered saucepan with C quarts
of water for an hour, strain it, and mix the
liquor with the paste, and add water to make
5 gallons ; or 8 ounces of Gishurst compound,
1 gallon of warm water, and add 1 wineglassful
of paraffin oil. Scrub the rods with this
mixture, and then add clay, lime, and sulphur
in equal parts to it and paint the Vines ; be
careful not to injure the eyes. Half-a-pint of
Fir-tree oil mixed with fi quarts of water, and
applied to the Vines with a spray diffuser, is
said to be a most destructive insecticide to
mealy bug. Three parts clay and one part tar
mixed with enough water to form a paint is a
good dressing. There has been much contro¬
versy recently in the Garden as to the
merits of tar dressings, but I think they are to
be recommended, being harmless to the Vines
and very hurtful to the mealy bugs. With
Melons and Cucumbers the best way is to keep
the plants as free from mealy bug as possible
with a syringe or sponge, using tepid water,

The plants should be destroyed and the houso
thoroughly cleansed as soon as possible.

Stove Plants. —When these are attacked,
care must be taken that the means used to
destroy the mealy bug do not injure the plants.
A small, stiffish brush dipped in soft soap and
water is a good means of getting rid of them,
if the plants are thoroughly examined and every
trace of the insect removed. Spirits of wine
applied to the insects with a camel’s-hair
brush is a very effective way of killing them.
Fowler’s insecticide or Abyssinian mixture, 4
or 5 ounces to a gallon of water, is said not to
injure plants and to kill mealy bug. These insects
being usually covered with a white, cottony
substance, it is not easy to destroy them by
syringing or merely dipping the plants in any
fluid ; the liquid should be applied with some
force, or the plants allowed to remain in it for
some time, otherwise it may not penetrate the
cottony covering. Fumigation is of little or no
use. Walls and woodwork of houses that have
contained infected plants should be thoroughly
cleansed, the walls repainted, if necessary, and
well lime-washed ; the wood and ironwork
should be scrubbed with soft soap and water.

Me ALT BUGS ARE NOT INDIGENOUS to this
country, but have been imported no doubt with
plants from abroad. They are said to be
natives of Africa; they may be found on plants
at all seasons of the year. They are very nearly
allied to the scale insects, and, like them, tho
males are quite harmless, and, besides being

I

Fig. 1, mealy bug (magnified); 2, ditto, underside of head,
&c. (magnified); 3, eggs (magnified and natural size);
4, young mealy bug just hatched, some days old, and
antenna; (magnified).

much scarcer than the females, are such very
different looking insects that no one who did
not know it would even for an instant imagine
they belonged to the same species. The male
is furnished with a pair of wings and has a
well-defined head, thorax, and body; whereas
the female is wingless, has comparatively ill-
defined segments, and is a somewhat shapeless
insect. The males are very seldom found, but
whether from their small size, inconspicuous
appearance, or the shortness of their existence
(for having once paired, they probably die) is
uncertain. I have tried in vain to obtain a
specimen to make a drawing from, so am unable
to give a figure of it. The females, alas! are
far too common. Soon after they are hatched
they are very active, and at times roam about
the plants ; but when they begin to lay their
eggs, they remain almost stationary, although
they do not lose their power of locomotion, as
the scale insects do. They then cover them¬
selves and their eggs with a mass of white
fibres much resembling cotton wool in appear¬
ance. This covering serves the double pur¬
pose of keeping the insects warm and dry. At
the same time it is of service to the horticul¬
turist, as it enables him to detect the insects
easier, and it assists him ioiTemoving them.
The njqaly hugs graw rapidly, and, after various
changes of skin, are developed into fully ma¬
tured fejp^p ^.'pjia j having

214

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 12, 1884.

attained a certain point in their growth, sur¬
round themselves with a white cottony cocoon,
within which they undergo their transforma¬
tions, and, having became pupce, or chrys¬
alides, emerge in the spring as minute two¬
winged insects. The mealy bug belongs to
the family Coccidae, of which the various
scale insects are also members, and the
genus Dactylopius, which contains eighteen
species. Probably the insects known as mealy
bugs do not all belong to the same species. The
females of D. adonidum (Fig. 1) are rather more
than one-eighth of an inch in length, and are
of a pinkish flesh colour covered with a mealy
white powder. The body is divided into four¬
teen segments; on each side of every segment
is a white process, those on the last joint being
very much longer than the others. The head
is furnished with a long proboscis (Fig. 2),
through which it sucks the juices of the plants.
The males are scarcely one-tenth of an inch in
length, pinkish white in colour, and covered
with a white dust. The ends of their bodies
are provided with two long white threads. The
wings are white, and measure two-tenths of an
inch from tip to tip. G. S. S.

HOUSE <fe WINDOW GARDENING.

11687.— Ferns shrivelling.— The fender
in a drawing-room is not a good position for
hardy Ferns to establish themselves. They
might do there for a time when well established.
The best thing to do with plants not well
established would be to plant them in pots,
place them in a frame where they could be
shaded from the sun ; in hot weather syringe
and water them freely. Ferns purchased at a
sale in broken pots could scarcely be expected
to be in good condition. Those purchased from
itinerant vendors are even in worse plight, as
they are usually wildings torn up with scarcely
any roots, stuffed into pots anyhow, and sold
immediately.—J. D. E.

11659.—Plants for north window.— You will find
nothing better than Mimulus, of which there is now great
variety, and which delight in a cool position. Young
plants potted now will make a fine show in late summer
and autumn. Two of the best plants in cultivation for a
north aspect are the Moneywort and its golden variety ;
they revel in sunshine and shade, and do not fear rough
winds, being quite hardy.—J. C. B.

COMPOSTS FOR POTTING AND BORDERS.

About this season of the year gardeners of all
degrees, and numbers of amateurs, no doubt
will be exercising their minds on the subject of
soils and composts for storing for future use.
With gardeners in private places, with perhaps
their employers’ fields and moors to go to, it is
principally a question of selection ; but with
amateurs in various circumstances—people with
houses in towns, or small gardens in the country
containing a few glasshouses and plants—the
main problem is, Where is the soil to come
from ? Among the inexperienced, particularly,
the most erroneous notions exist on the subject
of soils in plant culture, and far more impor¬
tance is attached to the matter than need be,
thanks chiefly to the mysterious teachings of
old gardening books. Here I shall try to explain
the nature and uses of the various kinds of
soils and other materials used in the garden,
hoping thereby to help the reader more effectu¬
ally than has hitherto been done, and according
to his particular circumstances.

Loam. —This is the principal element in nearly
all potting composts and borders. Loam varies
much in quality, some samples being heavy and
some light, with many shades between. Hence
the word is rather misleading in the sense in
which it is generally used. There are clayey
loams, sandy loams, light loams, and heavy
loams. The first is a strong soil, suitable for
wheats and some other subjects, but seldom
good for horticultural purposes, being apt to
bake, cake, and become hard. The second
(sandy loam) is more generally useful, but often
wants enriching, while light loam usually con¬
sists of sand, clay, and vegetable mould in about
equal proportions, which render it very suitable
for various purposes, without the addition of
anything olso. The best loam is procured from
the surface of old pastures, being rich in the
food of plants, derived from animal excrement
and vegetable fibre, the latter, in a state of
decomposition, beinff S*m&niira in ifeeli. As a

Digitized by

rule, the colour of loam is a pretty good guide
to its quality. For garden purposes it should
not be too light-coloured nor too dark, but just
of a dull brown colour, something like snuff
or cocoa, and friable in texture. Loam like
this is common in mostly all localities, in old
fields, about hedgerows, roadsides, and where-
ever the soil has been long undisturbed. Loam
usually and necessarily forms the staple of all
good garden soils, but is oftener found least
adulterated on farm lands, as well as richest in
quality; and a perfectly good article for one’s
purpose may generally be found in such places,
only needing sifting to free it from stones and
rubbish. Loam of this description, if stored
under cover, will dry and become fit for use in
a short time, and may be reduced or enriched to
any degree by the application of leaf-mould,
sand, or manures, according to its quality.

Peat.— Like loam, peat differs much in
quality. Kent peat, of which two sorts are sold
by the trade, chiefly for Orchids and other
special subjects, is of excellent quality for many
purposes. The Orchid peat consists chiefly of
Fern and other roots, which, in their half-
decomposed state, form a rough fibry turf. The
other sort is blacker and of closer texture, but
contains much rough white sand, which keeps it
open, rendering it suitable for some pot plants
as it stands. Good peat is, however, easily
found on mostly all moors and commons: and,
if it is not exactly of the quality desired, it can
soon be altered by the addition of sand. Peat
is plentiful in morasses, where it usually
consists of decayed Sphagnum Moss, often
many feet deep. It is this kind of peat that is
dug out and dried for fuel in many parts of
Scotland and Ireland, but it is not very good for
horticultural purposes. That which is found
on the higher and drier hillsides, where the
common Heath thrives, is the best, and should
always be chosen. The Sphagnum Moss peat
will do, however, for many common purposes
outdoors, and is used in immense quantities by
nurserymen for their Rhododendron beds and
the like, mixed with common soil. This kind
of peat in a dried state is now being imported
from the Continent in the shape of peat litter ;
but we ht\ve plenty of it at home equally suit¬
able for the purpose. Peat is exceedingly use¬
ful for many purposes in plant culture. Most
plants will grow in it well, and some species,
like Heaths, Azaleas, and Rhododendrons,
prefer it to loam, while it may with ad¬
vantage be added to nearly all composts.
When well drained plants root freely in peat,
and the roots keep active and fresh in it
longer than in any other compost. It takes the
place of leaf-mould, and does not encourage the
production of worms like that material, which
is a great advantage. A quantity should be
stored for use in any garden, and before using it
should be thoroughly chopped up, and every
particle of the soil rubbed through a fine sieve,
in which condition it is fit for adding to other
soils or using by itself. Pure peat and sand in
equal quantities, sifted fine, form one of the
best composts for fine seeds. It never cakes,
and the weakest seedling can push through it.
A little loam may .be added to it for such pur¬
poses ; but composts for covering seed-pans and
boxes should consist of peat and sand alone*
Peat that is not naturally sandy, like Kent
peat, should never be used in a lumpy, rough
state, so commonly practised. It soon goes
black and sour, and no roots will thrive in it.
This is the case with the moorland peat we use
Lore; but by breaking it up thoroughly and
adding sand and charcoal dust to it in quantity it
answers for anything. Nothing is more deceiving
than a rough, peaty compost. You may add
sand to it in quantity, and at the end of the
year it will turn out of the pot so black and
sour that one wonders where the sand has all
gone to. The real explanation is, that it never
was in it, the turfy lumps having only been
coated over with sand, ana not mixed with it at
all. Broken well up, it requires a large quan¬
tity of sand added to it to alter its texture
sensibly ; in fact, black soft peat can hardly
be overdone with coarse silver or river sand.
Peat may be added to all loams freely. I
never heard of it doing any harm, and for re¬
ducing heavy soils to a friable condition it is
preferable to leaf-mould, provided plenty of
sand is given as well. It may also oe added
to garden ground with advantage, especially in
conjunction with lime, which acts upon it

beneficially, like other vegetable substances.
Some of the best and cleanest crops of Pota¬
toes I ever saw came off ground manured in
this way.

Leaf-mould.— Like peat, leaf-mould enters
largely into nearly all composts for propagating
and potting plants ; unlike the former, too much
of it may be used. Many plants that do not
grow in peat naturally will thrive in it never¬
theless ; no plants succeed well in leaf-mould
alone. The best mould is formed of tree leaves
only, but much that is used consists of decayed
hotbed manure, which, although not differing in
appearance from pure leaf soil, is richer in
character, and usually much infested by worms,
for w'hich reason it is not so good for plants, as
it is sure to encourage these pests. It does very
well for potting coarse-rooting subjects, but
peat is preferable if clean leaf-mould cannot be
procured. In fact, we should prefer peat as
substitute for leaf-mould for nearly everything.
Light loams are not much benefited by leaf-
mould, and it should be sparingly used. For
Vine and fruit borders, generally it should
never be employed, except as a mulching for
the surface, for which purpose it is excellent
in many ways if used in the rough state.
When buried in the soil of borders it is very
apt to create fungi, especially when bottom
heat is used. We once saw a. Vine border
turned out that w r as completely run with the
threads of some fungus that smelt very offen¬
sively and injured the Vines. Mould from Beech
leaves is particularly objectionable on this ac¬
count, as the husks or the nuts soon become
masses of spawn. It is the pieces of rotten
twigs and sticks that create the fungus princi¬
pally ; the leaves themselves soon decay. For
pot purposes, leaf-mould should be thoroughly
decomposed, by letting the leaves lie in a large
heap a couple of years or more.

Sard. —This is one of the most indispensable
ingredients in all composts, and may take the
place of either peat or leaf-mould for lightening
heavy soils. The heaviest loam can be reduced
to an open and friable condition by the applica¬
tion of sand, and for many strong-growing sub¬
jects, like Pelargoniums, no other addition is
needed. Silver sand is most commonly used,
and there are several kinds of it. Reigate
silver sand is the best, either the coarse or the
fine, but large quantities are shipped to Hull
of a kind called “ Calais sand,” which is
perfectly good for most purposes, though some
gardeners do not like it, because of its fineness.
River sand, from clear rivers, is as good as the
best silver sand, and we know' gardens w'here
no other kind is ever used. It w'ould be pure
w'aste of money buying silver sand at so much
a ton when good river sand could be had for
nothing, as it can be near many English and
Scotch streams and rivers. The quality can
always be tested by striking a few cutting? of
various plants in it. If a plant will root

readily in the pure sand, or if seeds will
vegetate in it freely, it will do for mixing with
all composts also. The red sands, so abundant
in some parts of Nottingham and other parts of
England, are also quite as good as silver sand ;
for fruit trees and plants of all kinds not only
grow freely, but thrive in these w 7 hen manure
is added. Some of the finest Grapes we ever
saw 7 were grow n in soil consisting almost wholly
of red sand ; and we believe the greater part
of Sherwood Forest lies on the deep red sand¬
stone. Grapes, as a rule, succeed uncommonly
well in red sandy loams of this nature, and
some maintain it is the best of all soils for the
Vine. Sand should enter largely into mostly
all potting and border composts, if it be pro¬
curable in sufficient quantity. A soil may be
made poorer by its application, but it is not
likely to do harm in any other way, and heavy
loams are much improved in textflre by it, pc*o -
vided the tw ? o are thoroughly mixed. IT or
propagating purposes, sand is commonly used
alone, but for most things it may be mixed with,
about a quarter of fine leaf-mould or peat with
advantage to the plants, especially when potting
off is not carried out as soon as the cuttings are
struck,

Charcoal. —Fresh charcoal that has not
been used for steel making or other manufac¬
turing purposes is excellent for mixing with soi 1
It can hardly bo given in too great quantities, fo r
all sorts of plant?.VQiptj freely in it alono ; honco
charcoal dust; m&y t>e ugea as a substitute for
land ip piking ou&ingaj ^(fapt, .$he duet \*

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

JULY 19, 1884.

No. 280.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

THE KENTUCKY COFFEE TREE.

This is a perfectly hardy, free-growing subject,
quite dissimilar in general aspect from any other

work describes the wood as rose-coloured, close-
grained, compact, very tough, with little sap
wood ; susceptiblo to a high polish, although
_ „ cross-grained and difficult to season and work,

tree which flourishes in the open air in Great Its specific gravity is *609. It attains a height
Br tain—the large, handsome blueish green twice ! of from 00 feet to 80 feet, with a trunk some-
pinnate leaves, which in young vigorous sped- times 2 feet in diameter.—G. N. K.

“fe< ‘ '

south to Tennessoe ; wost to Wisconsin, Eastern being slightly raised above tho ordinary level,
Nebraska, and the Indian territory.” The same leaving a small space round the stems of tho

mens often measure as much as 3 feet in length
by *2 feet across at the base, giving it a

STANDARD RHODODENDRONS.

decidedly tropical appearance. It succeeds in
dmost all soils and positions, is one of the Many plants are grown as standards, which,

easiest trees to transplant, and supports drought
well. On the dry' gravelly soil of the old

from their stiff, upright habit, are totally un-
_ _ suited for the puimosc ; but this objection cannot

arboretum at Kew there was a fine example of be urged against Rhododendrons if a selection of
this tree, which, wo learn from that recently- 1 sorts of suitable habit bo made. They arc among

published and very
useful book of refer¬
ence, Smith’s “ Dic¬
tionary of Popular
Names of Economic
Plants," was a hundred
years old in 18G4, and
was besides of parti¬
cular interest on ac¬
count of its being one
of a collection of trees

? resented by the then
hike of Argyle (Wal¬
pole's tree monger) to
George III. on the
establishment of the
gardens. The veteran
ex-curator should, how¬
ever, have used the
past tense, as the tree
died and was removed
several years ago.
Under widely different
conditions we have
seen the Kentucky
Coffee tree flourishing
in a northern, county
in an exposed position
on a cold and retentive
day bank. Anything,
in fact, short of abso-
Inte stagnation in the
wil it seems to with¬
stand readily enough,
»o the tree is one which
»L*ild be freely planted
for effect in parks
and pleasure grounds.
Coder favourable cir¬
cumstances it attains a
height of 00 feet or
more, the accompany¬
ing illustration being a
representation of a full-
grown specimen at
Sy on, which forty years
ago measured 57 feet in
height , with a head 47
feet through, and a
trunk 3 feet in dia¬
meter. Although tho

plants to act as a receptacle for w ater.

In planting, the peat should bo rammed
firmly about the roots; at whatever seasou of
the year the planting may l>e done, they should
be thoroughly soaked at the roots ; and, if they
are to flourish unchecked afterwards, they
should not be allowed to feel the effects of
drought, more especially during their flowering
and growing season. When once established, a
little attention to training will in time make
them very handsome plants. The object of train¬
ing is to get rid of, or rather to hide, the stem. To
thisend theouter branches should be very'slightly
depressed during the first season, bringing them
dow*n a little lower each succeeding season, till
the tips of the outer

branches nearly touch
the ground. Should
any strong branches
take the lead in the top
parts of the specimen
these must be checked
early. When the plants
attain a large size it is
advisable to run some
8tout tar cord through

? resented by the then the main branches to

>uke of Argyle (Wal- prevent the wind from

splitting them. A few
strands of this cord,
looped so that one
branch will support
another, w'ill keep them
safe from high winds.
Wc have several dozen
of these plants scattcrci l
through the ground,
some of them in very
unsuitable positions, or
at least where they give
considerable trouble to
keep them in perfect
health. The greatest
difficulty is w'here they
are planted near large
Elms and other free-
rooting forest trees. In
these eases w’c make a
practice of trenching
round them every other
seasou, and watering
copiously during the
sniuifier. As a rule
plants are easily reno¬
vated when they show'
signs of exhaustion. Iii
cases of this sort wo
open out a trench al>out
*2 feet W'ide and 2 feet
from the stem of the
plant, when the ball of
peat is carefully shaved
all round with a sharp
spade or old scythe
blade. Atthe same time
the ball is freely pierced

Kentucky Coffee Tree produces in this country the choicest of garden shrubs, and, when once with a sharp-pointed irou prong. After this
iia terminal racemes of somewhat conspicuous obtained, their training and culture should be a foot wide of fresh peat is added to each

^atish flowers freely enough, it, probably, carefully attended to. When received from the specimen operated on, and the result is always

nursery they always have a good ball of peat renewed health and vigour. Sflmetimes these

around their roots ; but in many places they plants get one-sided and the best part of tho

Full-grown specimen of Kentucky Coffee Tree (Gytnnocladus canadensis).

igh, it, nrobably,
Imported seeds,

l-j lengths of 4 inches or 5 inches and placei
I prepared beds, kept moist, develope into
“Kata sometimes 3 feet or 4 feet in height the
year. On the other hand, Borne of tho
may hardly start at all during that
, but still retain their vitality, so should

pTever, furnish an easy mode of propa _ _„_ (

pton, and, besides, pieces of the roots cut up have to put up with a less suitable root medium, plant faces a point where it ifl least seen. When

eu ' * . ’ * '* ’ ’ 1 1 x i i

» put up -V .

That Rhododendrons will thrive in some loams this occurs they should be turned, as it in
is well known, but in cases where this has always safe to move them at almost any season
not been proved it is not wise to risk them in of the year, provided they are well watered at
anything but peat. Where the soil is of a re- the root.

' “ * .. Varieties. —The following are kinds that

tentive character, holes should be dug out at

least 3 feet deep, aud proportionate in width, make good standards, being of pendulous
< be disturbed or destroyed. The name according to the size of the plant and ball in- habit:—Blysianum, Barelayanum, geranioides,
T*ucky Coffee was bestowed on the tree by tended to occupy them. A foot depth of drainage Elfrida, Mrs. John Watercr, The Gem, Lady
^•arly settlers in Kentucky and Tennessee should be placed in the lxittom of the hole ; Eleanor Cathcart, Leopardi, John Waterc.
*fc»unt of their using the roasted seeds as a this should be covered with the rougher parts Everestianum, glorioeum, Blandyunum, con
*Eitufce for Coffee. The distribution of the of the peat, and over this should be placed eessum, Cunninghami, atrosanguincum, multi
r *is in a wild state is given in Professor another layer, ramming the whole down firmly maculatuni. The la«ttfuipGf| js s, sniall-flowered

ing the plant in position. If the kind, and one likely to go out of cultivation

C • Sargent's “Catalogue of the Forest
* North America” t "

B 4tern New York andtl

es before putting tho plant in pos
sp plants are intended to stand isolated, or in before
ip groups on the turf, they will look the better for for forming a r

fcii)

r u haWt

- • ^ en ®e

216

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 19, 1884.

in growth, and very free, and some standards
of it here are the handsomest plants we have.
Some of the erect-growing kinds are very useful
when worked on tall stems for forming the
background to large clumps of these plants.

J. R.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

Dwarf Scabious. —Now that the superior
merits of the Scabious are more generally recog¬
nised than formerly, and also its effectiveness
for decorative purposes, it is rapidly and
deservedly rising in public estimation. Few
plants are so amenable to general culture ; it
grows well and luxuriantly either in pots or
planted outdoors. It is in fact so hardy
as to withstand mild winters in the borders
here (Worcestershire), flowering profusely,
and coming up freely in the spring, thus
showing that anything in the shape of cod
dling in its treatment is undesirable. To
secure a compact habit of growth, seedling
Scabious should be kept near the glass and
given air freely ; if this is not strictly attended
to, I find that the young plants are liable to run
up rapidly and weakly. The best time to sow
the seeds depends greatly upon what is wanted.

If for general decorative purposes in moderately
small pots, I find seed sown about the end of
February to answer best for the first batch, and
also for planting out in beds, where it is so
effective, and where it so pleasingly contrasts with
the ordinary run of its associates. For winter
flowering in pots the seed should be sown about
the middle of July. For general purposes the
dwarf varieties are to be preferred, and they
should be sown in distinct colours. Last year
for winter flowering in the conservatory here
we had large and small varieties, potted in
9-inch, 10-inch, and 11-inch pots. They grew
remarkably well, and produced throughout the
winter a profusion of elegant and richly-coloured
blossoms, which stood fresh for months, and
were very serviceable for cutting from. Several
of these plants we planted out on a sheltered
border, where they have grown freely and pro¬
duced blossoms of a quality superior to that of
any I have before seen. The planting out of
doors in rich soil of the old plants I can strongly
recommend to all who have to supply cut
flowers. The Scabious is certainly a great
acquisition for decorative purposes or for cutting
from, and it may be had in flower all the year
round.—G. W.

Mignonette.—Few, perhaps, would care to
dibble out small plants of Mignonette, as in
most cases the seed germinates quickly and
abundantly in the open ground ; but here,
where the soil is cold and stiff, I cannot always
insure a good plant from seed sown outdoors,
and therefore it is a rule with us to sow some
under glass, and when the plants are strong
enough to handle and have been somewhat
hardened off, to dibble them out into well-pre¬
pared ground at about 15 inches apart. For the
first fortnight the plants seem to grow smaller
and almost to disappear ; but when a start is
made the growth is remarkable, and the floral
development later on is of the finest. Such
plants arc now 12 inches high and as much
through, but in a few weeks they will cover
every inch of ground, and might well want even
more room. 1 grow only the Giant White, and,
sown this season in pots for comparison with
five other strains, it is the most robust in

f rowth, and produces good spikes of bloom.

he new golden is a novelty, and to those fond
of a yellow Mignonette it is worthy of culture ;
but the spikes are short and not thrown out in
good long stems, as in the case of a good white-
flowered kind. For pot culture, perhaps one of
the more compact-habited forms, such as the
hybrid spiral or pyramidalis, is best; but for
general garden culture I prefer the free-growing,
spreading, large-flowered white form. Few
annuals are longer lived and perform better
service in the garden than Mignonette, for,
beginning to bloom in June, it will continue to
flower freely up to the end of October, and, if
the winter so far is mild and fair, even on to
the end of November. A few sprays of Migno¬
nette are ever welcome, and serve to add a sweet
perfume to flowers that, if more gay, are at least
less pleasantly odorous.—D.

Pinks and Spir^Bas.— -It is wseful and i
teresting to note £he nre|tic.t|^jf |lpufdy plants

! in their season. The showiest subjects now
are, undoubtedly, the common Rock Pinks, of
which the prevailing colours are white and
pink. Their profusion of flower is something
wonderful, and what masses the plants make
in a short time 1 For display they completely
eclipse the other members of the family, and
they last long in flower too, and have the true
Pink or Clove fragrance. The curious spiral
manner which the flowers have of unfolding
their petals, leaving a whorl in the centre, is

{ )retty and interesting, and has all but become
ost in the demoralised Pink of the florist through
long hereditary acquaintance with the tweezers.
They have also the unpardonable fault of splitting
their calyx, which no well-bred florist Pink does
when it is bandaged in time. These Pinks lend
a very gay aspect to borders at this season if
used plentifully; indeed, all the intermediate
colours do. Strong and decided colours and
contrasts are striking, but intermediates are
most pleasing ; hence the pinks and the mauves,
and light blues, like the Foi^et-me-not, the
Viola comuta, and the Wood Hyacinth, are all
pronounced lovely, and are permissible in large
breadths where a lightsome effect is an object,
a fact which should not be lost sight of in flower
At this season, too, the

garden arrangements.- .

fair rosy-tinted Spiraea palmata is about at its
best, and has a pleasing effect. What a robust
grower it is in cool soils in the north.

Autumn-sown Sweet Peas.— These I
find to be most useful for furnishing a supply
of early flowers for cutting ; they stand the
winter well, and come into full bloom consider¬
ably in advance of spring-sown ones. Anyone
having a sheltered position, such as a boarded
fence or even close to a hedge, may get a very
early supply of Sweet Pea blossoms by sowing
in November, and as soon as the young plants
come through the soil put a good covermg of
sifted coal ashes over them ; these act as a
protection from severe frost, slugs, and even
superfluous moisture. A few sticks should also
be put to them early, as they screen them from
cold winds, that are more destructive to such
plants than actual frosts. I find the scarlet
Invincible to be a capital sort for cutting from,
but as a rule mixed sorts are most generally
useful. The colours can be selected as gathered
if required for any special purpose, and the
more closely the flowers are kept gathered the
longer will the plants continue to produce them.
It is seed-bearing more than flower-producing
that exhausts the energies of the plants, and if
kept well supplied with liquid manure, and a
covering of good rotten stable manure is placed
over the roots about 2 feet wide, the same plants
will continue to flower the whole season. Sweet
Peas are especially suited for filling vases either
mixed with other flowers or by themselves, the
latter being as a rule the most satisfactory
arrangement.—J. G,

Ornamental hedgerows.— On the Hamp¬
shire coast the hedgerows are now a treat to be¬
hold. Annual clipping and shearing are but little
practised hereabouts, the arable land being
mostly enclosed by hedges composed of a mix¬
ture of wold Roses, Bramble, and Elder, altogether
different from the trim Whitethorn hedges of
Kent, but, from an ornamental point of view,
very pretty. First one comes on amass of Bramble
intermixed with blossoms of the Dog Rose or
Brier, lovely wreaths ; then an old stump of Elm
covered with Ferns ; and next an Elder bush,
possibly the worst material for forming hedge¬
rows to be found, but certainly not devoid of
beauty, long shoots of last year’s growth having
lately been quite bent down with large heads of
white blossom. Garden hedges, too, are very
beautiful in this locality. They are mainly com¬
posed of Euonymuses of variegated kinds,
Laurustinus, Sweet Bay, and other plants that
succeed near the sea ; and amongst them are
planted old-fashioned Roses, such as the Maiden’s
Blush, the Cabbage Rose, Monthly or China
Roses, and other sorts that do not figure on
exhibition tables, but when seen in masses are
truly lovely, filling the atmosphere with grateful
perfume. The old-fashioned small flowered
Fuchsias of the gracilis and Riccartoni section
also figure largely in hedgerows hereabouts, and
arc now covered with buds.—G.

^\ v £* d y

The Fraxinella (Dictamnus Fraxinella).—
Among hardy herbaceous plants the tine old
Dictamnus Fraxinella is still one of the best,
and just now is very striking with its

dense spikes of curiously formed >and marked
flowers, which exhale a strong', and most
agreeable odour. I have heard it stated that
many find much difficulty in keeping and
growing thiB very desirable plant, but here it is
always strong, and never fails to bloom freely, one
plant last year having seventeen flower-heads
and twenty-three this. We have two varieties, i
the one being larger and darker than the other, a
as well as more robust, and I have just started n
wuth the white, which seems the weakest of all.

The soil the Dictamnus is growing in is light j
and sandy, which seems to suit them, and they
have shelter afforded by a background of (
shrubs. Why many fail in growing herbaceous j
plants is through cutting away their stems long
before they are dead, which is a great mistake, g
as till then they are needed for the purpose of
developing and ripening the crowns, and if these 3
lose their support they must of necessity 3
become weakened, after which they dwindle
away and die out altogether. Another thing
that militates much against herbaceous plants
is digging the borders, especially if that opera¬
tion is carried on by the aid of a spade, and the
soil is deeply moved, as then the roots get
severed or broken, and the plants disturbed and
loosened, which interference they feel for a 1
long time and suffer for afterwards. If the
borders are dug at all the work should be done
in spring, and with a fork thrust in only -

sufficiently to break and turn over the surface, *
after which it is a good plan to top-dress with
short rotten manure or leaf-mould, to act as a
mulching and keep out the drought.—S. D.

Whit© Orchis maculata. — I have re¬
ceived from Mr. Forrest, of Bathgate (no more

8 recuse address is given), flowers of a white
irehis, which decidedly belong to 0. maculata.
Enclosed with them are fine spikes of that 4
handsome variety, intermediate between 0.
maculata and 0. latifolia, known as 0. M.
superba, or the Kilmarnock Orchis. This and
other intermediate forms are often found wild,
where 0. maculata and 0. latifolia grow in
company. I have never yet heard of a white
0. foliosa, about which I enquired some months
ago, nor have I seen a true 0. latifolia with a
white flower.— C. WoLLKY Dod, Edye Hall ,
Malpas .

Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles.—
This is unquestionably the finest of all the
Ceanothuses, being a profuse flowerer and a
vigorous grower, and, more than all, the hardiest
amongst them. Its tiny flowers are produced
in myriads in large dense plume-like clusters,
which, being of a lovely sky-blue, have an
extremely pretty effect. No good garden should
be without a specimen of this shrub on the lawn
or in a choice open shrubbery.

Asparagus for ornament. — Amongst
the plants grown for use in our gardens as
vegetables, there are some—as the Globe Arti¬
choke, Asparagus, and some sorts of Beet—
which might well be employed for ornament
also. Of all useful plants, however, none lend
their leafy growth with better effect when
planted with Irises, Lilies, Foxgloves, Poppies,
and other showy and bright-coloured flowers,
than does the common Asparagus. Its light ami
feathery sprays are in reality more fresh and
graceful than are those of any of the Bamboos,
and some of our visitors are quite delighted w ith ^
it, as seen in the flower borders here and there. ,
We use it also in a cut state, along with Ferns
and other greenery, for relieving the bright
colouring of cut blossoms of all kinds, and :
where flowers are cut largely for decorative pur¬
poses it will be found most useful. It is not
easy to say why there should be a prejudice ^
against the ornamental employment of useful .
plants, but that such does exist “ goes without ,J
saying.” As a friend said to me the other day, ^
“ If the Apple tree did not bear Apples w e
should then grow it largely as an ornamental
shrub or tree. ”—P.

Hardiness of New Zealand Flax.—I
have had this Flax—Phormium tenax variegatum
—ten years in the open air, having brought it
myself from New Zealand. For the last seven
years it has been placed in a sheltered garden
and in well-drained soil, but succumbs, so far us
the foliage is concemed, to any really severe
frost. It had reached 5 feet in height when the
Bevere winter of 1880-81 levelled it, in spite of
protection, to the ground. Since then it has
tall \ tad more efficient protection, and this year is

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jcl* 19, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

217

again over 5 feet in height. When small, the
beit protection was a barrel with the bottom out
placed over it and filled in with Cocoa-nut fibre
till the plant was entirely covered; this was
then roofed in to keep the fibre dry, and thus as
much as 20 degs. of frost was resisted. This
last winter I managed with mats and dry leaves
to keep it safe, but, on the whole, I cannot call
it very satisfactory or advise amateurs to try’ it,
for it does not increase fast under either the
exposure or smothering to which it has been
subjected. I can never hope to flower it. It is
well suited to the Isle of Wight, where it
Hoarishes and flowers, too. Still, though not
thoroughly hardy, it might with care be made,
even as far north as the middle of Essex, a
handsome plant; and anyone who had seen a
good bush of it, with its handsome Aloe-like
spikes of crimson flowers, could hardly fail to at
least try to grow’ it.—G., Wit ham.

Tall Foxgloves.— Just at this season
nothing is finer, as seen towering aloft high
above Pinks and Pansies, high even above
Irises and Poppies, than Foxgloves of the kind
called the gloxinioides race, varieties with large
bells, varying from white through all shades of
peach and rose, until the typical purplish
crimson tint is reached. The white, spotted,
ana the rosy peach coloured kinds are, we think,
most beautiful, especially those seen in bold
groups, spreading under partial tree shade.
Although most effective, they are obtainable at
very little trouble. We bought half-an*ounce
of seed, and sowed it here and there on bare
ground in out-of-the-way places. That was in
the beginning, and now we save seeds every
year from our best and most distinct varieties
only. As soon as the seeds ripen we cut the

r es and shake the seeds about just where the
ts are required to grow and bloom, and
when the seed germinates too thickly we trans¬
plant elsewhere, or thin out when hoeing the
borders. No plant is more stately and graceful,
or add3 more effect to half-wild places than a
good strain of the common Foxglove.—W.

When to sow biennials. — A corre¬
spondent advises the sowing of biennials now—
advice so far useful because it is better to sow
late than never, but so far from sowing now I
am just planting out strong plants of Canter¬
bury Bells, Sweet Williams, Foxgloves, and
Antirrhinums, and shall have Columbines,
Stocks, Honesty, and various other things ready
to plant the moment spare ground can be had
for them, and I have put out Wallflowers some
time. I find, however, that in the case of small-
ieeded plants it is absolutely necessary to sow
under glass, because our soil is not one that
fivours the germination of such plants as Fox¬
gloves, Canterbury Bells, and Antirrhinums,
lat Stocks, W allflowers, and Honesty do very
veil sown in the open. I prefer to get plants
of all these out early ; indeed, it is so seldom
that Snapdragons will winter as old plants, that
I sow in September and winter in a frame, or
else sow very early in spring, in order to get
planU to bloom freely the tirot year. Pentste-
moui also are sown early with the tender
annuals under class, and these are now out and
well established to bloom in the autumn. In
many cases when biennials are sown late the
best forms of the plants are not seen. Canter¬
bury Bells and Foxgloves, for instance, are
mere shadows of what they are if sown early,
and the plants have ample time to get strong
ere winter sets in. With such things as Sweet
''lllianis, also, it is often all the difference
between a plant producing ten or twelve trusses
of bloom and one or two only. I have a large
nuisa of theso plants now in bloom that are
*ucha perfect thicket of stems ancl flowers a
-at can hardly crawl about in it, and that is
the way to have a good show of biennials, no
- r tAtter what they are.—A.

The blue perennial Flax (Liaum pro-
nuciale), as seen swaying to and fro in the sun-
dne, is one of the prettiest of plants, and well
»^rth a place on any dry sunny border, since
riule it affords quite a display of its ccerulean
Sj '*woms, it does not shade or override its
*^hbours in any way. It is in all ways dis-
*ct, as graceful in its slender growth as
\r Asparagus, while its blooms are plentiful
11 veil as beautiful. Beside it, for company, we
the shrubby habited L. flavum, with broader
• ; iage and yellow floweW", Tlnd th* L, j|;randi-
■Wuin, art annual with afons^fly rei idhjajjze of

a shilling. Even the annual or common Flax (L.
usitatissimum) is very pretty if a good broad
patch of it be sown ; and the white perennial
Flax, although capricious in some soils, and not
perfectly hard v, is so graceful and distinct as to be
well worth culture. Linum trigynum is perhaps
the finest of the whole group, and well known
as a winter blooming plant in a warm green¬
house, but other than this one all the Linums
too often are obliged to endure undeserved
neglect.—P.

Catananche caBrulea.— In most gardens
this plant is of annual, or at most biennial
duration only, but on warm sandy soils it
now and then becomes truly perennial and
of great beauty as a late summer-blooming
plant of distinct habit and ornate character.
The plant has long been known in English
gardens. It comes naturally from the south of
France, where it grows in hilly situations that
are stony. Miller treats of it in his dictionary,
and yet it is by no means a common plant in
cultivation. Another species, C. lutea, is inte¬
resting as a botanical curiosity, but it is by no

means so showy as is the plant under notice.
C. cferulea is easily increased from seed sown
during the spring or summer months. The
plants soon become strong enough to be planted
out in the borders where they may remain until
they bloom. Here in Dublin this plant is per¬
fectly hardy, the only precaution we take for
its safety being to put a little heap of coal ashes
or sand around the collar of the plant ere it
dies down for its winter’s rest. Large plants
afford a good supply of mauve-blue flower-heads
for cutting, and as an ordinary hardy plant for
the outdoor decoration of bare ground it de¬
serves more attention than it at present receives.
—W.

The Sun Roses (Helianthemums).—To
fully enjoy the beauty of Sun Roses early rising
is necessary ; on sunny mornings they are fully
expanded by seven o’clock, and by the middle
of the day thoir flowers are entirely or partially
closed. Despite this peculiarity they are, how¬
ever, very gorgeous cn masse when the weather
is favourable, and will succeed where little else
will thrive. The Sun Roses are small pro¬
cumbent shrubs, from 6 inches to 1 foot high,
and therefore are well suited for sloping banks or
rockwork, even where the soil is chalky ; indeed,

on some of the Surrey hills the common Helian-
themum vulgare forms large showy masses. As
they lend themselves readily to the operations
of the hybridist, a large variety now exists
amongst them, including white, yellow, crim¬
son, and various intermediate shades. There
are also single and double-flowered kinds.
Although classed as shrubs, their general aspect
is that of herbaceous plants, so procumbent in
habit are they. Should the day be very dull
the flowers do not open, but a long-continued
succession is kept up, and in summer most days
are sufficiently favourable for their expansion.
—A.

Sowing biennials. — Canterbury Bells,
Sweet Williams, Foxgloves, Antirrhinums,
Columbines, and other hardy plants of a like
character, which flower the second year, may be
sown now in the open border. They are best
sown thinly in drills in a partially shaded
position, such as that afforded by a border on
the east or west side of a wall or fence. The
soil should be well pulverised, and the drills,
which should not exceed half-an-inch in depth,
should be far enough apart to permit of the free
use of the hoe after the young plants appear.
If the weather is dry at the time of sowing,
water the drills and sow on the damp soil,
covering with dry surface soil to prevent the
moisture from escaping by evaporation. A thin
shade, if the weather is very not in the middle
of the dav, will be beneficial to the sprouting
seeds.—H.

SOME JULY FLOWERS.
Alstiwemeria aurka in variety, grown in large
beds or groups, forms extremely beautiful
masses of colouring, rather repeating the colours
of the hardy Azaleas, and, as in their case,
always in pleasant harmonies, from faintest
pink, through several shades of rose, to a fine
orange-red, then passing through orange to
various tints of buff and pale yellow. Well-
established plants send their roots down more
than a foot, and shoot their flower-stems up
4 feet high. They delight in a sheltered corner
near a south or west wall, though they do very
well in the open in warm soils, where they will
flower the first year from seed.

Alstr(EMEria aurantiaca is a still finer

? lant, more solid of substance in all its parts.

here appears to be two varieties ; the larger
and handsomer has the three broad petals an
inch across, and of a deep fiery orange or flame
colour. The small kind has flowers of a fiue
orange, with paler foliage.

Anthemis tinctoria is a hardy plant of the
first quality. Its handsome Daisy flowers, nearly
2.^ inches across, have petals of tlie palest yellow,
with a deep yellow eye. Seedlings show interest¬
ing variations in the colour of the petals, vary¬
ing from nearly pure white to a full yellow,
nearly as deep as the eye. It is a plant of flue
habit, carrying its well-furnished branches from
2 feet to 2£ feet high.

White Goat’s Rue (Galega officinalis) in any
soil where it does not become too rank, is beau¬
tiful alike in flower and foliage ; the groups of
flowers, abundant and yet not overcrowded, are
gracefully disposed about the plant, and the
whole has a well-dressed and well-balanced
appearance.

A WHITE Martagon Lily, 5 feet high, bear¬
ing twenty-five flowers on one spike, is a sight
worth seeing ; the dark variety, dalmaticum, a
splendid glossy black-crimson, is a worthy
companion.

Campanula pumila, the white variety, is
now the gem of the rockery, clothing large
spaces on the face of a loose wall built with
rough pieces of sandstone. It runs along the
joints, defining them in the prettiest way
possible, and, where the rough stones leave
largish gaps between, filling up these spaces
with compact masses of its brilliant green foliage
and pure white bells. It runs only too strongly,
and sometimes encroaches on its neighbours ; it
seems to delight in getting into some strong-
growing plant like

London Pride, running underneath and
thrusting out its little bells between, and in
some cases all round the rosettes of the Saxi¬
frage, and will even penetrate through such
hard masses of growth as tufts of Gentiaua
acaulis. It combines beautifully with Poly¬
pody and Hart’s-tongue Ferns, its companions

ontho wi-RSITY OF ILLINOIS AT

Senkcio artemisIjEFOuus w * good rqck Rag-

218

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 19, 1884.

wort, bearing flat heads of a fine full yellow at
a height of about a foot above the Artemisia-
like foliage.

Senecio abrotanifolius has one or two
flowers on a stalk 4 inches high, the flowers
being 1 ^ inches in diameter and of a rare colour,
a deep salmon-orange, showing well above the
finely-cut, glossy, deep green foliage.

Surrey. G. J.

HERBACEOUS PLANTS v. THE BEDDING
SYSTEM.

I cannot help thinking that “ J. D. ,”in his anxiety
to impress the readers of Gardening with a due
sense of the value of herbaceous flowering plants,
has gone too far in hi3 condemnation of the bed¬
ding system. The fact that the bedding system
is appreciated and admired by millions in this
and other countries is sufficient proof of its
beauty and usefulness, notwithstanding any-
thingtliat“ J. D.’’may urge to the contrary. Any¬
one who chooses to watch the expressions of the
visitors to our public parks and gardens, whether
these visitors belong to the working classes or to
the more highly educated classes, will very soon
be able to form some idea of the pleasure which
they all seem to derive from viewing the skil¬
fully-arranged masses of colour, and the gratifi¬
cation they feel at havirg the privilege of walk¬
ing about amongst the beds and inspecting the
designs. The bedding system, so far from being
the abortion which “ J. D.” would like us to con¬
sider it, is rather one of the visible results of a
comparatively high state of civilization, and of
the power of using the means and utilizing
the materials which nature has placed within
the reach of man. “ J. D. ” would have us confine
this power, so far as flower gardening is con¬
cerned, to the grouping of herbaceous plants in
imitation of nature. On the same principle he
might tell us that when we build our houses,
we should use the stones as they tumbled down
from the quarry-face instead of in the geome¬
trical shapes which architects insist upon giving
them ; or he might say that when we make
our house furniture we ought to use only rough
logs and limbs of trees instead of the cut and
carved articles which are produced by artistic
taste. But is this system of grouping herbaceous
plants, as recommended, really an imitation of
nature ? Imitations of nature are always more
or less imperfect, but where on earth will we
get growing naturally together groups of Del¬
phiniums, Pyrethrums, Potentillas, Phloxes,
Geums, and a hundred other plants from
different climes and countries ? In this view of
the matter the grouping of herbaceous plants is
just as unnatural and artificial as it is in the
bedding system. Even the best attempts to
arrange and group herbaceous plants in gardens
have a forced and unnatural appearance to any¬
one who has wandered much through the woods
and over the natural meadows and moorlands.
Plants of nature’s growing do not require tieing
up to stakes to make them look respectable
after a thundershower, whereas, if our groups of
herbaceous flowers are not carefully supported,
the first storm of wind or rain gives them a
broken and bedraggled look from which their
pampered constitutions never recover. The real
pleasure to be derived from growing herbaceous
flowers consists principally in watching the
growth and development of the individual plants,
and though this pleasure is one that is supposed
to be experienced in the greatest degree by
florists who grow for exhibition, still the grower
of herbaceous plants in groups has quite as much
satisfaction in watching his non-exhibition speci¬
mens, no matter what may be the size of his
garden or of the beds in it. It is very conside¬
rate of “ J. D.” to recommend growers of flowers
to have great beds 100 feet long by GO feet
wide, but I am sorry I cannot adopt his sug¬
gestion, for to do so I should require to take in
nearly my whole garden, house and all ; so
that if I am to follow “J. D.” in bis ideas I
must consider that I am deprived of half the
pleasure to be got from this branch of floricul¬
ture. Wc can all see that “ ,J. D.” is differently
circumstanced, and that he has a large garden
and lots of spare ground, and that he has not
got “ an inefficient education, or want of that
quickness of perception of beauty which goes
with refinement or fineness of body and mind,”
whatever all that may mean.

But if “J. I).” come to (tfasgow and
tak^ l^ok at the mil as ifftthe he will

see that really, after all, picturesque gardening
is neither despised or neglected in any garden
of ordinary size where flowers are much culti¬
vated. The gardeners here, like your cor¬
respondent “ R. P. D.,” have recognised the
fact, which “ J. D.” seems to ignore, that there
arc two systems, very different from each other,
and that each is good in its own place. My

friend D-, who has a good-sized villa and a

large piece of garden ground, has not forgotten
to lay off a few square yards of smooth level
turf with beds for “ bedding plants.” The turf
is kept closely shaven, and the beds are kept
clean, and neatly trimmed and fully stocked.
The clumps of shrubs and the groups of care¬
fully selected herbaceous plants which fill in the
border on the other side of the main walk form
a beautiful contrast to the more artificial beds
in the centre, and the whole is set off by the
old Elms, Limes, Planes, and Oaks which sur¬
round three-fourths of the garden, but at a
respectful distance. Our public parks are laid
off on the same principle where practicable, but
the bedding system is, perhaps, more promi¬
nent, for it is more appreciated as a novelty by
those who have been accustomed to look upon
nature's groups of flowers during a great part
of early life. P. R.

ARRANGEMENT OF BEDDING PLANTS.
On page 192 “ R. P. D.,” in true knightly
fashion, challenges the article written by
“J. D.” on the above subject, but, unfortu¬
nately, forgets his chivalry after the first
sentence, and it is only on this account that I
enter the lists, for I fancy the tone of his
remarks will render them unworthy of notice
by the gentleman attacked. Not that he needs
assistance ; far from it. As an old opponent of
mine I am well aware how effectively “ J. D.”
can uphold his own arguments, but there are
times when a little outside support is of some
service, and I therefore hope he will pardon me
if I reply to the (what I consider) unfair
assault, not upon a system of gardening, as it
should have been, but upon an individual.
“ R. P. D.” says: “I do not suppose any
florist or gardener will be troubled by his
(‘J. D.’s’) high-flown remarks upon their

class.” Does he, then,by his own dictum, place
himself out of such a category, for the said
remarks have evidently troubled him ? He,
forsooth, advises your contributor to study the
art of gardening until he is able to grow' a
Cabbage to perfection, and winds up his
remarks by asking fora description of “ J. D.’s”
garden, “ assuming he has one.” Truly this is
such a coarse way of carrying on an argument
that I marvel at your inserting it, and for that
I can only account by judging your desire for
the fullest discussion to have arrested the
excising pen. When “ R. P. D.” affirms that
most of the readers of Gardening will attest
his assertion that the obnoxious bedding-out
arrangements can only be found in the gardens
of such as consider themselves the “educated ”
class, while the hardy herbaceous border is only
found in perfection in the plots of the cottager
or artisan, I will be one exception amongst his
witnesses, and contradict him as emphatically
as is consistent with common courtesy. Bedding-
out is found in all grades of gardening ignorance,
from the lowliest to the highest in the land, each
class thinkingitcultivates good taste by servilely
imitating the practices of the class socially
above it.

There is, alas ! education and education—the
education by the Board or bearding school, and
that of the gardener and artist, who love to
search out the beautiful in nature, and cultivate
it by imitating natural conditions. The “ edu¬
cated ” of “ R. P. D.” are, as a rule, grossly
ignorant on the beauties of form and colour os
they should appear in the garden. This results
from their having in past years put themselves
in the hands of their gardeners, whose true edu¬
cation in the ages of bedding out was sadly
neglected, through no fault of their own ; but
as a sequence to an unhealthy demand for gaudy
glaring masses and geometrical designs which,
however admirable for drawing lessons in by¬
gone years, have been put aside as true beauty,
picturesque and artistic irregularity have been
perceived and taught. Let this critic look to
Nature in his garden, and he will find her, as he
says, the same for all ; but he only can enjoy
her true lxauty who will look with his mind as

well as his eves, and perceive no regularity or
repetition of stem, branch, twig, leaf, bud,
flower, or petal, no two alike—from the gnarled
and furrow'ed stem of the Oak to the reflexed
petal of the Rose ; from the fringed Pink and
the blotched Pansy to the jaunty cocked-hat
calyptra of the Mosses on the wall, irregularity
in beauty, and beauty in irregularity everywhere.
I would ask him how he would like an artist to
paint him a lake scene of regular cloud-lines,
regular mountains, trees, and ripples on the
lake, and, to follow up the bedding-out simile
further, the artist should have his colours stipu¬
lated by the educated employer. The apostles
of bedding-out are not where “R. P. D.”says
they are, but are most numerous amongst small
villa residents, who often leave their gardens in
the hands of jobbing gardeners, whose interest
it is to “get through ” large numbers of plants
annually, aided by kindly frosts, so that in the
coming season their occupation would not be
gone. I will say nothing against this hard¬
working, ill-paid class—it is their business and
daily bread; but such gardeners and villa
residents are rapidly seeing the error of their
ways, so far as my observation goes, and my
opportunities are numerous.

“ R. P. D.” is wrong, also, when he says the
higher classes of society do not possess the
hardy herbaceous border, for amongst the
gardens of our aristocracy and landed gentry it
would be next to impossible to find one garden
conspicuous by its absence—the herbaceous
border is a sine qud nan. “ J. D.’s ” critic tells
us that “ an artistic taste is an innate gift, and
the contemplation of beautiful objects can no
more create it than the contemplation of the
Bank of England can put money into your
pocket.” Will you let me say, finally, that the
contemplation of beautiful objects may so
educate and direct taste that it becomes artistic,
just as deliberate, loving meditation on the
Royal Exchange steps might convince “R. P.D.”
that the Bank of England was the safest cus¬
todian of his savings. The wise man of old
might have directed us to “Go to the plant,
consider its ways and be w’ise.”

Eorsforth, near Leeds. R. A. H. G.

Hardy plants v. bedding out.— It is a
pity that “ J. D.,” and others w'ho think with
him, should damage a good cause by his in¬
temperate language and narrow views. Wc,
who are fond of gardening and flowers of all
sorts, owe a great debt of gratitude to Mr.
Robinson for his consistent advocacy of the
cultivation of many beautiful perennials. But
it does not therefore follow that everyone who
uses “ bedding-stuff,” as it is contemptuously
called, is, as “ J. D.” seems to imagine, a fool
and an idiot. I confess to being weary of these
tirades against one perfectly legitimate side of
gardening. Evidently “ J. D.” has only got
one eye open. But it is a pity he uses the
word “stupid” so often of things and people
he does not understand. It is clear that he has
no idea that there are two styles of gardening,
one rather more formal than the other, but both
perfectly legitimate. I enjoy both. In my
garden, which is but a small one, I have mixed
borders, and a wild garden, the plants in wh ich
are a daily source of delight to ine ; but I have
also a lawn of lovely Grass, and on it a few
beds, which are a constant pleasure to the eye,
and without which the house and garden would
be, for the greater part of the summer, like a
picture without a foreground. It is :he l
artistic taste which is chiefly gratified by fine
patches of colour in beds and ribbon -borders. ^
These can be made, and often are, very beau til ul, <
and one who cannot appreciate them has ree lly
no right to speak on the subject. Opposite the ^
window at which I am writing is a tiny circular \
bed on the lawn, which adds infinitely to the
beauty of the whole landscape as seen from my q
room. What is it composed of? About twenty *
plants of the Beauty of Waltham scarlet Gera- t
nium in the centre, surrounded by one row of
Lady Plymouth (Pelargonium), outside of which -5
is a row of blue Lobelias. It is a lovely nw,
and will be, weather permitting, till the bojjin. *
ning or'middle of October. I distinctly ass ?rt, *
and I speak from considerable experience, th at i
could not get anything like the same effect for \
the same length of time with any annual i or
perenidals. Other- beds like them arc-here and
there round the lawnr-And what did this

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

July 19, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

219

“ bedding stuff ” succeed ? The most beautiful
beds of Tulips and Hyacinths, which flowered
for about a month, and were only just able to
be removed in time to put the Geraniums in.

I delight in the various plants of a mixed
border ; but am I, therefore, to have my lawn
disfigured by straggling annuals, and half
dead and flowerless perennials ? I speak of
what I know. I have tried the experiment.
Over our schoolroom chimney-piece, when I was
a boy, used to be fixed a card with the excellent
maxim—“A place for everything, and every¬
thing in its place.” By all means let us have
hardy plants, in their proper place. The bright
masses of colour, which, whatever “J. D.”
may say, you cannot get without bedding plants,
appeal to our artistic feeling. They look well
on terraces and lawns near the house, and set
off the building. I suppose it is thought to be
derogatory to the dignity of plants to “set off”
a house ; but sculptors, at least, never complain
of their art being demeaned by being put to such
an use. I could say a good deal more, and am
quite sure, if I may be flowed to say so, that I
could give “ J. D.” a hint or two ; but I only
plead now for bedding plants, many of which
arc as beautiful as any hardy ones, and for their
cse, which is quite as legitimate. As “R. P. D.”
suggests, do let “ J. D.” give us a plan of his
own garden, and then we shall see whether he
has any bedding plants or not, and what right
he has to speak so dogmatically on the subject.
—A. N.

Arrangement of bedding plants.— If

“R. P. D.” (Gardening, page 192) will read
my article again I think he will see that nothing
is said in disparagement of gardeners or any
other class. All that is objected to is the leav¬
ing of matters to the gardener for which he has
not necessarily any special aptitude or training.
I have no doubt “ R. P. D.” could beat me in
Cabbages, as our stock is planted in soil which
has been cropped with vegetables for 200 years,
and which wants renovation ; but ability to grow
Cabbages, or even Roses and Lilies, to perfec¬
tion doe3 not confer any capacity to arrange
plants tastefully, any more than ability to grind
colours well confers ability to paint a picture.
“ R. P. D.” evidently knows nothing of matters
of art or he would never have made the erroneous
statement that “ artistic taste is an innate gift.”
That foolish idea is at the bottom of all the
mistakes that people who are not artists make
about art in all its branches. Since “ R. P. D.”
resents so much the interference in gardening
matters of people who are not practical
gardeners, he will no doubt allow that the best
judges of what artistic taste consists of are
those men who have spent their lives in the
training and production of it, and who have
watched its growth under their care as the
gardener watches the growth of a precious
seedling. Speaking from personal experience
of pupils who have gained a public reputation
u artists and pupils who have not, I may say
that the main differences between them very
well bear out Carlyle’s dictum, that “ genius is
only the capacity for taking trouble.” The
student who succeeds always does his best—is
docile—does as he is told—sees his errors when
they are pointed out to him ; or, if he has been
trusted to take two steps of the ladder instead
of one, he tries to see his errors, gets them
corrected, and may often be trusted to take
three steps of the ladder instead of one at the
next attempt. The student who docs not
«ucceed often possesses the “ innate gift” in a
very high degree—thinks he knows all about
art before he begins—“only wants to take a
few lessons. ” He makes no effort—does not see
his errors when pointed out to him, but thinks
the teacher is fault-finding—gets tired of his
mdies, and tears them up, or smuggles them
aat of the school before they are half finished—
' : inks he has been kept too long at elementary
r»rk, or that there must be something wrong
• f ith the teaching, and tries another school for
■tx months—makes less and less progress every
ur, and at last settles down into a conceited,
vpeless failnre. I have never met with a
<^!e instance in which anyone who thought he
^ possessed of any “ innate gift ” of artistic
or whose friends thought lib was possessed
<rich, who had any special aptitude for art
6 ®y form, but very mnch the reverse. Those
Areally have the “inmate gift” discover it
dually, both t th&mseto'ci ftr<\*>|<fplers,
&vugh finding they cafrblar their ofepBtitors

in intellectual pursuits—they start level, as the
competitors in a race do. Natural capacity
there must bo in the first instance, but without
training it is of no more practical value than a
seed is which is never placed where it can germi¬
nate. It is a most extraordinary thing that
artists alone of all men engaged in intellectual
pursuits should be supposed, after years of train¬
ing and study, to be still on the same level at
which they started. In mathematics, for in¬
stance, a boy who has not crossed the ass’s
bridge is not considered competent to dispute
with a senior wrangler, and it is the same with
all other studies. In art alone does a person
who has not learned the rudiments consider
himself perfectly competent to praise or condemn
the result of years of intellectual progress.
Beauty of form, and the goodness or badness of
arrangements of beautiful forms, are not matters
which each person can settle for himself accord¬
ing to individual caprice, or “taste” as it is
called, but are settled by the immutable laws of
the universe. Nature is open to all, but not
one person in a thousand can Bee the beauty of
any but her most simple forms without training.
The principles and elements of beauty must be
learned as any other branch of knowledge is
learned, and admit of no more diversity of
opinion or “taste” than is admissible in the
question whether two and two make four or not.
The more beauty of form is studied the more it is
seen to be a species of higher mathematics. But,
although there is a sharp line between right and
wrong, as there is visible in all things except to
those whose perceptions are muddled by error or
ignorance, there is almost infinite possibility of
variation in arrangement without going wrong.
It is in their variations that individual tastecomes
in. One man likes Roses, another likes Lilies,
one likes plenty of red, another plenty of blue—
all are right. With regard to the effect of
beautiful surroundings upon the general taste of
the people, I merely stated the historical facts
of the matter, which anyone can ascertain who
chooses to go into it. It is not within the
province of gardening. I must demur to
“ R. P. D.’s” statement that you cannot destroy
the beauty of a plant by misarrangement. You
can destroy the beauty of colours by placing
them in discordant combinations, and yon can
make any pure colour look dirty by placing a
purer and brighter tint of the same beside it—
try a Vesuvius Geranium beside a scarlet
Carnation ; and you can also destroy the beauty
of a plant by bad grouping and confused
arrangement. The “ obnoxious bedding” alluded
to is not in the gardens of the educated classes,
but in the London parks and the gardens of
suburban villas. With regard to my own
garden, the readers of Gardening have had
many examples from that, both as regards
arrangement and culture, and nearly the
whole of the helps I have been able to give
them from time to time have been the
result of personal experience, and although
this season I am not able to be of much service
to them in that way, owing to change of resi¬
dence, and having to lay out a new garden
of three acres on plough land, I hope in future
to be of still further use. At the same time it
must be borne in mind that, with regard to the
arrangement of plants, the popular proverb
that “a grain of example is worth a bushel of
precept ” has to some extent to be reversed.
What is necessary is to get hold of the right
principles to follow, and then apply them to
the varying conditions of different gardens.
There is, for instance, a quiet straight walk in
this old garden which is greatly shaded in
summer by trees. On the south side of it is a
clay bank, 5 feet wide, and on the other side
a level border of the same width, filled with
sun-loving subjects, which get but a scant peep
at the sun when the leaves are on the trees.
This shady region is being gradually filled with
woodland plants, and the few bits which get a
little summer sunshine will have Ayrshire
Roses, Tropreolum speciosum and Honeysuckles
to trail over the trees, and common China
Roses in the borders. The borders are being
planted with Pansies, Primroses, Primulas,
Auriculas, Orchids, Cypripediums, Wood Lilies,
Dog’s Tooth Violets, Sweet Violets, Daffodils,
and Anemones, as leaf-mould is got together,
and a waste comer is being transformed into a
picturesque glade of Ferns. All the arrange¬
ments, however, are made to fit the size and
shape of the trees, and the conditions of sunshine

and shade, and wholly unsuited to any other
position. The clay bank, too, is backed by a
Hawthorn hedge, and a ditch which takes the
surface drainage from the fields above—condi¬
tions which are not often found in a garden.
Now, no detailed description or drawing of these
arrangements when completed would be of
much service to anyone, the conditions differing
so much from what usually occur in small
gardens ; but the principles of arrangement are
suitable to all gardens. Then again my new

f arden as a whole will not be the sort of thing
should recommend anyone to copy, there being
no dwelling-house, and the grass will be limited
to a broad avenue, and space for two lawn tennis
courts ; neither will there be any trees except
fruit trees. But the flower beds will be such as
would be suitable for the embellishment of
gardens round dwelling-houses.—J. D.

- I am very pleased to see that “ 1\. P. D.”

has thought well to challenge “ J. D.’s” notions
of gardening. This paper largely circulates
amongst amateurs, whose piece of ground fails
to reach the size he mentions July 5th—viz.,
100 feet by 00 feet, the consequence is that
much must be made of the small space, and
bedding out is one of the pleasant means.—•
J. H. F.

- I notice with pleasure “ R. P. D.’s”

remarks on “J. D.’s” articles under this heading.
“J. D.” talks about beds 00 feet by 100 feet.
Allow me to ask him how many per 1,000 of
your readers he thinks have a garden half that
size ? Perhaps his locality is specially favoured,
and does not have slugs or snails, otherwise he
would find great difficulty in preserving many
plants (hardy) from their attack, notably
one he mentions, Delphinium, also Zinnias,
Aster, and Phlox Drummondi, all of which
want planting in beds or borders within sight
and reach to be able to keep the vermin in
check. I think a little moderation would bo
more becoming in a fallible mortal, and his re¬
marks would then be more likely to be taken
heed of by those he wishes to convince.—
Amateur.

11698.— Plants after blooming.— Petu¬
nias when they have done blooming should be
thrown away, taking oare that somo young
plants have first been propagated from them by
taking cuttings of the tops of the young growths.
The cuttings root very freely in a hotbed.
Genistas should be cut over, and when they
have started to grow repot them into larger
pots, using a compost of equal parts, peat and
yellow loam. When Abutilons become old and
leggy they should also be increased by taking
cuttings of the young wood ; these form roots
very readily in a hotbed, and the young plants,
if taken care of, soon grow into a flowering
size. Tuberoses, when dono flowering, and
after the leaves decay, require a season of rest.
The pots containing the roots should be laid on
their sides, and they do not require any water
until it is time for them to start into growth
again. The best summer flowering plants for
an inexperienced cultivator are Fuchsias, Zonal
Pelargoniums, Geraniums, and Lilies. Petunias
would also be summer flowering if propagated
from cuttings in the spring. Abutilons would
also flower well all through the summer and
autumn months.—J. D. E.

11703. — Marguerites. — Large plants of
both the yellow and white Paris Daisies can bo
grown in England as well as in France. There
is a plant in front of the window where I write
which I have just measured, and it is quite 12
feet round. It was planted last year in May,
and has stood where it is all the winter. It is
the variety named La Croussc. Large plants
could be grown in pots ; but few people would
care to pay ten francs for them. Grood-sized
plants, with from twenty to thirty flowers, are
sold in Covent Garden Market in the season for
about half-a-crown each. They arc grown in
6 -inch pots. Such plants as these, if cut over
when the blooming time is over, and repotted
fresh in 7-inch or S-incli, and then in 10-inch or
11 -inch pots, would make large plants in one
season, and would carry quite 200 blooms.—
J. D. E.

- Possibly the following particulars may

interest “Juana”:—Last year a friend sent
me a number of ‘ yoitng jllatits about 3 inches
high. AU of these were planted in. the
open garden, sdme in borders, and about nine
or tcnljfj Remained

Digitized by

Gck igle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

July 19, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

221

Imogen
to bo

INDOOR PLANTS.

CONSERVATORIES AS THEY SHOULD BE.

High as the present state of gardening un¬
doubtedly is in this country, it cannot surely be
said that much, if any, real progress has been
mide as regards the arrangement of our con¬
servatories, though a subject, it must be ad¬
mitted, of great importance. When we consider
how few are the examples of correct taste in this
matter, and how abundant the examples of what
plant houses should not be, we see at a glance
how deplorably behindhand we are in a matter
that is really one of the cardinal points of true
gardening. What is meant by a picturesque
arrangement of plants is more clearly explained
by the accompanying illustration than by words.
Contrast such an ar-
ement with that
seen in con-
iervatories of the
ordinary stamp and
their inferiority as
regards tasteful ar¬
rangement will be
at once apparent.

In the one every
plant is effective,
and in the whole
the expression of
beauty is unique
both as regards
colour and form. ^In
the other we have
ugly stages and still
uglier pots and tubs
to contend with,
rendering the very
name of greenhouse
a misnomer ; and,
moreover, plants
very seldom develop
themselves so freely
and fully when their
roots are restricted
as when planted out.

There is no reason
whatever why every
conservatory in the
country should not
present such a
charming appear¬
ance as that repre-
aented in the an¬
nexed engraving,
but in orderto effect
tuch an arrangement
there must be a
radical change from
the old stage-and-
pot system of cul¬
ture. Some seem to
misapprehend the
meaning and cha¬
racter of naturally
arranged conserva¬
tories. They are
under the impres¬
sion that such houses
moat necessarily be
monotonous in ap¬
pearance, and they
think that such an

arrangement will

exclude gay spring
and other flowering
greenhouse plants
> »ue h as usually en-

I liven the stages of o r dinary houses. But that is

I I mistake. In a properly arranged conservatory,
l'ich as that here represented, there should be
II s ices set apartjwhere groups of flowers in pots
1 -^U be placed at convenient distances from the

? so as to be fully enjoyed. And how much
i beautiful do masses of bright flowers appear
a their pots are hid from view, and their
lings the greenery of fine foliaged plants.
-*kr such an arrangement they could be ex-
seged for others just as in the case of plants
* m ordinary stage. In order to maintain a
^fkt display there should of course be supple-
^Ury, or what may be termed growing,
from which seasonable flowering plants
*ii be brought to the conservatory when
Xured. It is a pity thate^amplss of naturally
conservatories ads notr&ore froeuerfbin
fit Large public aud r ri ge ,rtl ?n jjSfll good

Naples existed in these of properl^Srauged

conservatories they would have much influence
for good among smaller gardens, and if the
natural style were more practised there would
be a use for hosts of plants, which, under the
pot system, do not finu a place, simply because
they are unfitted for it. A glance through the
houses at Kew reveals a wealth of plant life
unknown in private gardens, but which could
be readily obtained if there was a demand.
Aroids, Ferns, Marantads are particularly
valuable for the purpose, aud a long list could
easily be furnished of suitable subjects.

GLOXINIAS AND THEIR CULTURE.
The present race of these lovely plants owe
their pareutage to a few species imported from
different parts of South America. The hybrids

A naturally arranged conservatory.

recently raised are, however, superior to the
imported species both in Bize and form, and
their colours are almost unlimited, varying, as
they do, from the purest white, through the
different shades of pink, to deep red, and from
pale blue to intense purple, with endless kinds
of spotting and banding with light and dark
colours; in fact, there are few flowers in
which there is so much variety, and they also
po8B6B8 other points eoually noteworthy.
Gloxinias may be increased rapidly either by
means of seeds or cuttings ; they are likewise
easily grown, and most useful for decorating
not only the stove, but also the intermediate
house in Bummer, in which they continue to
bloom more or less for a considerable period.
Their flowers, too, are very useful when cut,
lasting in £ood condition in water for several
days, provided the plants have made their
growth and produced their flowers in a

thoroughly light situation, with the amount
of air requisite to impart sufficient substance
to them—the latter an indispensable condition
when required to be used in a cut state.
Indeed, the flowers of few plants depend so
much as regards durability upon the way in
j which the plants have been previously managed
as those of the Gloxinia, the whole character of
which is so much changed for better or worse
according to the conditions of cultivation.
When well grown the leaves are firm ami
[ short, borne on stout footstalks, and the
| flowers stand well above the foliage ; whereas,
if grown either too moist or too hot, with in¬
sufficient light, the whole plant has a soft,
flabby, straggling appearance, that effectually
destroys its beauty. By having a sufficient
number of plants, and bringing them on at
different times, a
succession of flowers
may be kept up from
March until the end
of September or
later.

Raising Gloxi¬
nias. — The seed
should be sown
early in spring—say
about the miudle of
February, so as to
allow the plants an
opportunity of at¬
taining sufficient
size to flower, during
the summer, in a
way that will ex¬
hibit their true cha¬
racter ; sow in an
ordinary seed pan ;

S ut an inch of
rainage on the
bottom, and on that
place a little Sphag¬
num. The soil
ought to consist of
equal parts of loam,
peat, and leaf-
mould, all sifted ;
add to it one-sixth
its bulk of sand, as
it is essential it
should he loose and
open, or in trans¬
planting the roots of
the young seedlings
will be injured. Fill
the pan with soil to
within half an inch
of the rim, press it
down moderately
firm, then water
with a fine rose, so
as to settle the sur¬
face, and on this
sow the seeds, not
loo closely, or the
young plants be¬
come crowded^and
consequently drawn
up before they are
large enough to pot
off. Cover the
seeds very lightly,
and place them in
a temperature of
65 degs. As soon as
the young plants
appear place them
close to the light,
screen them from the mid-day sun, and

supply them with water, giving them a

little air during the day. When the leaves

are an inch long move the plants singly

into 3-inch pots, using soil similar to that in
which the seeds w T ere sown, and at once replace
them near the light, raising the temperature as
the day8 increase in length. By the end of June
they wfill require shifting into 4-inch pots, using
the soil without sifting, and treating them as
has just been recommended. When they bloom the
best kinds ought to be marked for propagation
and the inferior ones discarded.

After flow'erino is over give less water,
discontinue shading, and admit more air, so as
to ripen the grogftfc; j rlfllfW p$he leaves have

They

222

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 19, 1884.

generally winter best when the bulbs are
allowed to remain in the soil and pots in which
they have been grown, but as they become
large, and are in pots of a considerable size, this
is not always convenient; in that case the roots
should be stored in paper bags filled with dry
sand to preserve them from the air, otherwise
they shrivel, and thereby receive serious injury.
To give

A succession of flowers through the
summer a portion of the plants may be started
about the middle of February, and a further
supply in March. Let the pots be proportionate
to the size of the tubers—about 7 inches in
diameter will be large enough for the second
season. In potting just leave the crowns of the
tubers on a level with the surface of the soil,
and, immediately they are potted, place them in
a temperature of 60 degs. at night, allowing it to
become 5 degs. or 10 degs. warmer by day; if not
put in heat as soon as potted the roots will rot.
The soil ought to be in a slightly moist state
when used, and little water should be given
until growth has commenced. Treat them
throughout the season as to heat, shade, light,
and moisture, as recommended for the preceding
summer. As already pointed out, their satis¬
factory flowering will depend upon their re¬
ceiving abundance of light; a shelf over a path
way within a few inches of the roof is the best
place for them. In such a situation not only do
they get the requisite amount of light, but they
also receive more air—both essential as regards
securing short, sturdy growth. This summer
they will bloom well, and their tubers will in¬
crease considerably in size, yet it is in the third
and fourth years after sowing that they will
make the finest display. When the tubers get
large they may be divided, retaining to each
portion some of the buds with which the crown
is furnished; but the most general method of
propagation and by far the most expeditious is

Leaf cuttings. —If the leaves are taken off in
summer when fully matured, with a portion of
the stalks attached to them, and this portion is
inserted in 4-inch or 5-inch potsr, drained and
filled with half peat or loam and sand, with half
an inch of sand on the top, and kept in a brisk
heat, slightly shaded and moist, they will form
healthy bulbs before autumn. If the variety to
be increased is scarce, several may be produced
from single leaves by cutting the midrib through
on the under side in four or five places. Then
lay the leaves flat on the soil in pots or pans
prepared as above; over each place where the
midrib has been severed secure the cut parts
to the soil with a pebble about the size of a
cockle, and at these points small tubers will be
formed which, when the leaves have decayed in
the autumn, will require to be wintered and
afterwards grown on in every way as recom¬
mended for the plants raised from seed. The
following named varieties are all well worth
growing :—

Erect flowering kinds. —Alfred de Musset,
bright red, striped with lilac ; Duke of Edin¬
burgh, tube white, throat deep violet, shaded
with maroon ; Panth^re, blue, spotted with
white, throat white and massive ; Scarlet Gem,
white tube, throat spotted with lilac, limb deep
scarlet; James Brand, throat creamy yellow,

' spotted with violet, lobes violet; Don Luis of
Portugal, white tube, throat spotted carmine,
zone violet, white limb: Magenta Queen, tube
deep red, base of limb deep crimson, edged with
magenta ; Mr. Thomas Binney, red throat, limb
crimson ; The Czar, tube white, limb purplish
violet; A. Haut, blue spotted on a white zone ;
Byron, white, amaranth lobes ; Chateaubriand,
white lobes, throat delicate rose.

Pendent varieties. —Alice, limb mauve,
throat yellow : Angeline, tube rose barred with
white ; Mogul, tube spotted with red, crimson-
purple limb; M. Alphand, white tube, violet
spotted throat, purple limb; Eblouissant, bright
red, throat white ; Delicata, outside of the tube
white, inside violet, base of lobes margined
with white; Grand Monarch, tube white,
throat violet spotted with white, limb deep
crimson ; Ne Plus Ultra, white, with crimson
throat spotted with carmine ; Bird of Paradise,
lilac throat, white spotted ; M. Grivet, throat
spotted with maroon, bordered with violet,
mouth spotted with violet; Mrs. William Bull,
red flaked with whiterWashington, xleep vermi¬
lion j;, Wilhelmine, ni lf

blue, throat spottedVitliVole.

id with

Insects. —Gloxinias are not usually much
troubled with insects. Thrips will, however,
sometimes attack the leaves, in which case
sponging and fumigation are the best remedies.
If aphides make their appearance on the young
flower-stalks they can be best destroyed by
means of fumigation. T. B.

SELECT PELARGONIUMS.

For general purposes the most valuable class of
large-flowered Pelargoniums is undoubtedly that
which lias recently obtained the name of the
decorative section, in which are included all
that have not the symmetrical shape and regular
markings of the show flowers. Another class
called Regal Pelargoniums has flowers in which
there is an unusual number of petals ; of these,
Captain Raikes may be cited as an example,
but it is difficult—almost impossible, indeed—
to say where one set ends and the other begins.
Of the large numbers put into commerce every
year, many are never heard of after one or
two seasons. The following, though sent out
within the last three or four years, are still
but little known. They have been selected from
a great number of varieties, many of them Con¬
tinental ones, and have been chosen in conse¬
quence of some thoroughly distinctive features,
which stamp them as really different from
others in cultivation. Several of them have at
some time or other received certificates from
the different societies. Among them is Belle de
Jour, which attracted a good deal of attention
when exhibited. The flowers of this variety,
which are pure white and semi-double, arc
borne in erect open trusses, so that each indi¬
vidual bloom stands out nearly free of its neigh¬
bours ; another peculiarity is the flowers do not
all expand at the same time, but keep up a kind
of succession. Its blossoms being white and
semi-double, will be useful in a cut state, but
as a plant it lacks sturdiness ; in this respect it
resembles an old variety with semi-double
flowers (Album plenum) now nearly gone out of
cultivation. Two other semi-double kinds,
Jeanne d’Arc and Madame Boncharlat, are
quite free from this drawback. They are dwarf,
but free in growth, and exceedingly floriferous.
In colour both are blush, and resemble each
other so closely that if one is in a collection
the other is not required.

Quite a number of free-flowering varieties, in
which the blooms are either wholly white or so
faintly marked that the colouring is scarcely
perceivable, are of Continental origin. Amongst
these the best are Lucie Lemoine, Mad. Har-
mant, and Mad. Charles Koenig ; Mad. Marie
Knecht is also a good kind. Mad. Thibaut is a
very handsome variety, the ground colour being
white, blotched with rose in the centre of each
petal; its habit, too, is all that can be desired.
Volonta Nationale to some extent resembles it,
but it is of rather a darker tint. In both of
these the edges of the petals are prettily crisped.
Another kind with crisped petals, though in a
less drgree, is Edward Perkins, orange-scarlet
with a maroon-coloured spot on the upper petals.
In habit and freedom of flowering this is a first-
class variety, while its glowing colour stamps it
as a promising market kind.

The best of the white crisped flowers of the
Duchess of Bedford type I consider to be Maid
of Kent, in all respects a good kind. Princess
of Wales has a rosy lake colour reticulated with
white, and may frequently be seen with a
beautiful purplish shade in the centre. The
individual blooms are very large, and contain an
unusual number of petals, but at times they
come what is called washy instead of possessing
their ordinary colour ; the plant, too, frequently
becomes diseased ; points greatly against this
variety. Brongniart is a very effective kind,
the whole of the five petals being nearly equal
in size and each pure white, with a large rosy
purple blotch in the centre. Mrs. Potten has
a large circular white flower with a velvety
crimson blotch. Poiteau, rich purple, with
dark spots, has very round flowers and a good
habit. Gaston Malethas also very large flowers,
which are rosy purple and white in habit; it is
dwarf, and upon the whole a fine decorative
kind. In Dr. Joseph Naggy the ground colour
is white, but a deep maroon blotch extends over
half of the petals, giving the flower a very dis¬
tinct appearance.

Among the brightly-coloured flowers,Mountain
of light, one of Turner’s show varieties, bears 1

the palm, but its habit is not good. Two
striped kinds sent out by M. Lemoine last
season, viz., Oreste et Pylade and Romeo efc
Julietta, flowered with me, but not sufliciently
well to enable me to fully determine the merits
of the two. The last appears to have much the
better habit, and has also the best marked
flower, which is deep rose, striped more or less
with carmine. In some blooms the markings
are regularly arranged in stripes, while others
are nearly self-coloured, in this way resembling
an older variety called Queen of Stripes, of
which some flowers come beautifully marked,
but the bulk only self-coloured. H. P.

Transplanting: Lapagerias. — In my
practice I have found it best to transplant in
autumn after the plant has finished its growth,
or early in spring before growth begins. As
the plants in question are in pots, there would
not be much danger in transferring them to
beds or pits, provided they are not thickly
matted with roots around the sides of the pots.
In any case, they will need care, as when the
thick, fleshy roots are broken, which often
happens, they die back, and are some time
before they send out fresh feeders. The ball of
earth should never be allowed to become dry,
nor the new soil soddened with water before
the roots run freely in it. If a happy medium
in this matter be attained, the plants will soon
start into strong and vigorous growth. The pit
to hold the roots should be built of single brick
or stone, with a slab or slate at the bottom to
prevent them escaping from the bed. In the
first course of brick ample space must be allowed
for drainage. There should be at least 6 inches
of good drainage, an important point, as the
plant, though a water-lover, is very impatient
as regards stagnant water. Fifteen inches of
soil will be sufficient depth in which to grow
a fine specimen. Good lumpy, turfy peat, with
a light sprinkling of bones, sufficient sand,
broken crocks or charcoal, to keep it sweet and
open, will answer well for Lapagerias. If the
soil is allowed to become pasty it is fatal to
their health. The size of the pits, of course,
will depend upon the size of the plants ; in any
case, it is not wise to make them too large, for
the soil does not get filled with roots. Better
enlarge when the plants have filled a small pit
with roots ; then the plants feel the benefit of
the new soil.— Reader.

Propagating Deutzia gracilis.— Wi en
well grown this plant will throw up new growth
or suckers from the roots, and these may be
taken off in the autumn with a sharp knife a
portion of root being attached, cut back t< > a
few inches, and then be potted. The porti< ms
cut away make the best of cuttings. Th sse
should be about 3 inches in length, and, if
put into pots and kept in a frame or c ool
house, will, as a rule, strike well in the spri ig.
If placed in a gentle bottom heat, root ng
will be much accelerated. The young pla its
will do well in a cool frame in all seasc ns,
but make more rapid growth in heat, and he
earlier the new wood is produced the earlie: it
is matured.

11693.— Red Spiraea after flowering —
The Spiriea alluded to is probably S. palm; ta.
It will do well either grown in pots all the j «%r
round, or planted out-of-doors when the flov Lur¬
ing period is over. They like a deep, rich i >il,
of which a portion of it is peat. For pot cull ire
equal parts of peat and loam answers well or
them. The plants ought not to be allowe to
become root-bound, but should be repotted tto
larger pots when they require it.—J. D. E.

Pinching plants.— The chief objeel of ^
pinching plants is to make those of a stragp ng j
habit of growth assume a dense, evenly brain led y
one, or to get the plant into some form ditfe mt >
to that of its natural growth. In pine ng \
Fuchsias or any soft-wooded plants ther is |
generally two shoots start from every point hat
is stopped, and if one wants to get a plar to |
assume a pyramidal form, broad and well l led „
up at the base, the cultivator must check he ^
upward tendency of growth in most vari ies a
by pinching out the points of the stror >st 1
shoots. We find pinening out the flowc ng *
points advantageous when we want to rc rd > (
the plants without-exhausting their ener js,
by allowing them to flower when not required, ■

- J URBANA-CHAMPAIGN 8

July 19, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

223

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Stove plants. —Poinsettias and Euphorbias
may still be propagated. Old plants of these
that are well established in their puts should
now be exposed to full sunshine. Water the
Poinsettias liberally, and the Euphorbias more
sparingly. Gesnerias must be kept under warm
and moist conditions close to the glass. Do
not, however, allow any moisture to settle on
the foliage, as it is easily disfigured thereby,
and see that mealy bug does not attack them,
as it will soon cripple the flower spikes. The
later Gloxinias will now be growing freely, and
must have ample space allowed them in which
to develop their foliage. Any fine-leaved or
flowering plants that have been removed from
this house to the conservatory must be watered
cautiously, always using tepid water for this
purpose. Nothing will so soon give these plants
a chill, from which they may not recover, as
cold water at the roots when they are in cool
structures. Keep the general stock of stove
plants exposed to a little more sunshine as the
season advances and the growths attain maturity.
Give ample space to every plant, as nothing is
more detrimental to producing well-balanced
plants than overcrowding them.

Greenhouse plants. — A good stock of
scarlet, white, and pink Pelargoniums should
now be potted on for supplying cut bloom
during the autumn and early winter months.
Keep them stopped occasionally, and pick the
flowers from them as fast as they appear. In the
scarlet class Vesuvius is one of the best, and
Madame Vaucher is a good white kind ; while
Mrs. Upton and Christine are pink sorts that
bloom satisfactorily in winter. Double-flowered
Primulas should now be growing freely. Good
varieties of these are so valuable for winter use
that every encouragement must be given them
at this season. Pot on any that were propagated
late in the spring or early in the summer. Drain
well and use a light, rich, sandy compost when
potting them.

Con tin ne to sow Rhodanthes of different sorts,
Centaurea Cyanus minor, and other useful
annuals. These will all prove most useful during
the autumn months. A large batch of Migno¬
nette should also be sown, which will bloom
under cover in the autumn. The different
varieties of Abutilons should now be growing
freely. Many of these are valuable for winter
blooming, especially Boule de Neige. An early
batch of white Roman Hyacinths should now be
potted up, or the bulbs may be planted thickly
in pans or boxes, and will supply abundance of
white flowers during November. Young stock of
any kind should not be allowed to remain in the
cutting pots a day longer than is necessary,
otherwise the plants soon get drawn, and are
thereby much retarded.

Ferns. —The principal work among these will
be keeping them well supplied with water at the
roots, and maintaining a humid atmosphere
around them. Any neglect in these respects will
tend to give a footing to thrips and red spider. |
Any choice kinds that require repotting should |
be seen to at once, so as to get them well rooted
before winter. See to pegging down the rhi¬
zomes of creeping kinds.

Show Pelargoniums that were placed in the
open air to ripen their wood, as recently re¬
commended, will now be in a fit state for head¬
ing down, an operation w'hich should be per¬
formed at once, as their ability to flower early
i next spring depends much upon the time at
1 which they are cut down. No plant with its
[roots confined in a pot should have its head re-
poved without first allowing the soil to get as
[fry as it will bear without injury'. It is neces-
-rv to be more careful in this matter in the case
TO Pelargoniums than in that of most plants, as
^ey are more impatient of their roots being in
that is too wet than the generality of plants
cultivation. After they are headed down
ace them in a cold pit or ordinary garden
*ae in a sunny situation, put the lights on,
3 tilt them in the daytime in order to admit
s closing them in the afternoon whilst the
<*ia on the glass, syringing them freely over-
1'4 at the same time, which will be all the
they will require until they have broken
growth afresh.
ftcnsiAS.-r-A porti<

Wred Earliest may

£hat
e be

placed for ten days or so in the open air, during
which time they should receive only just enough
water to prevent them from flagging. If after
this their side branches are cut into four or five
joints, the leading shoot being shortened propor¬
tionately, and they are then put in a house or
pit, where the atmosphere can be kept a little
close and moist by freely damping the floor,
closing the lights in good time in the afternoon,
and syringing overhead, they will quickly throw
out fresh shoots that will bloom freely through
the autumn ; and to assist them to do that they
should have weak manure water applied cnce or
twice a week.

Flower Garden.

Herbaceous borders. —Stake and tie every¬
thing that requires it before it is broken down
by the wind. Mulching with 3 inches of
rotten manure over the roots will greatly assist
free-rooting plants, and a free use of the syringe
with clean water twice a week, taking care to
moisten the roots as well, will much improve
their health and appearance. Remove all dead
and decaying tops from plants that have
flowered early, in order to reduce to a minimum
the greatest drawback to herbaceous plants;
but for the sake of mere appearance never re¬
move the healthy tops from any plant, or
the never failing result will be to weaken it
seriously.

Violets. —Well-established plants of Violets
are now throwing out strong runners, and if a
stone be placed on each so as to press them to
the soil, good strong plants can soon be obtained.
As soon as they have begun to root into the soil
the runners should be lifted and planted out in
a piece of well-prepared ground in the form of a
bed, and they will yield fine flowers early in
autumn and winter if the weather be at all open
and warm. The state of the weather lias much
to do with the production of flowers.

Dianthus. —The annual varieties are now
getting into full bloom. There is the well-
known Indian Pink (Dianthus chinensis) and
its double form ; both are now in flower, and
they contain very charming varieties, especially
those having fringed edges. Then there is the
pretty dwarf Dianthus Heddewigi and its
fringed variety, laciniatus, both large and rich
in colour. The be*it soil for these annual Dian-
thuses is one of a light sandy nature. The
seeds can be sown in the open ground, and the
plants thinned out to a requisite distance when
the seedlings are large enough to be handled.

Biennials and Perennials raised from seed
sown during the spring must on no account be
allowed to stand too close on the beds, for if
crowded the whole get drawn up weakly, and
a season is so far lost that they flower only
meagrely the ensuing spring and summer. In
preparing nursery beds for those that do not
absolutely require a shaded position, select
an open position where they will make close,
compact growth, which will enable them to
stand the winter and produce double the
quantity of flowers that can be obtained from
weakly-grown examples. Those that do not
like full exposure to the sun, as, for instance
Primroses and Polyanthuses, should have £
place at the north side of a wall, not, as they
are often seen, crammed away under the shade
of trees that not only darken them too much,
but impoverish the soil to an extent that
prevents them attaining anything like the
necessary strength and vigour.

Double Zinnias. — There is generally
scarcity of gay blooming plants late in autumn,
and although Zinnias are not generally culti
vated in pots, they are most valuable for that
purpose, their gay colours and fine large
globular flowers making quite a display indoors
long after they cease blooming in open beds,
where damp nights and heavy rains generally
cut short their beauty. Any left over from
planting should have their flower-buds nipped
out and be potted up at once, after which set
them in the shade for a few days till they get
hold of the soil, and then put them out in an
open situation.

Shrubbery.

Now is a favourable time to propagate shrubs.
Half-ripened shoots of the several varieties of
Euonymus will now strike freely inserted under
hand-glasses or cloches on a cool shady border.
We find small plants of these most useful for
w indow boxes, winter vases, &c., also the varie¬
gated Ivies, Aucubas, and Berberis aquifolium.

The latter is easily raised from seeds now ripen¬
ing, which must be gathered when fully ripe, or
the birds will soon devour them.

When the planting of trees and shrubs is con¬
templated, the present is the most suitable time
for making notes and observations, as all trees,
&c., have now attained to a mature condition as
regards the hue or colour of their foliage, their
habit of growth, &c.; and such notes made now
will probably be found to be very useful at a
later period of the season w'hen planting is being
carried out. In selecting trees and shrubs it is
necessary to take into consideration their habit
of growidi and the form they are likely to assume
w'hen they are fully developed, and w hether they
w r ill be of an upright or drooping habit, or of a
round-headed or pyramidal form, &c.; and, with
a view to secure the. desired effect in grouping
or arrangement, the hue and form of leaf should
also have attention given them. There is also
another very important point which should not
be lost sight of—viz., that of selecting plants
that are likely to thrive in the soil and situa¬
tion where it is intended they should be planted.

Fruit.

Vines. —Late Grapes will now require to have
their young growths pinched frequently, as it is
better to go over them often than allow' the wood
to grow' for a number of feet and then remove it.
Gros Colmar, after being stopped the first time,
never after makes many young growths. The
leaves of this variety are very liable to become
shrivelled in autumn before the fruit is quite
ripe ; therefore, in order to have the foliage fresh
as long as possible, the lateral growths should
be left three or four leaves in length. Every
opportunity must now be taken to encourage the
development of late Grapes, as one month of
bright summer weather properly utilised is of
more benefit than tw f o later in the season.

Vines from which the Grapes have been cut,
and that manifest an undesirable tendency to
produce wood, stopping, w'hich is the only w'ay
to meet the difficulty and induce early ripening
and resting, must be persisted in. Keep the
houses as cool as possible, and the foliage clean
and free from insects, which, now that the fruit
is used, will be a comparatively easy task, as
syringing may now be done whenever it may be
thought necessary. If the borders are at all un¬
satisfactory now is the time to see to them,
either as regards the examination of old drains
or making new ones, or giving additional soil or
top-dressing. Of course, suitable w’eather must
be chosen for such w’ork, as it is very undesir¬
able to be moving soil when it is in a pasty con¬
dition, both as regards the Vines and one’s own
comfort.

Give air freely to Grapes colouring, but guard
against cold currents, which are oftener the
cause of “ shanking ” than the state of the soil
or border, which generally gets the blame, and
sometimes perhaps rightly. A severe check of
any kind occurring at that critical juncture
when the fruit begins to change from the sour
to the saccharine state wdll cause shanking, and
perhaps there is no greater cause of that evil
than over-cropping.

Melons. —A minimum bottom heat of TOdegs.,
and the same of top heat, are indispensable for
crops approaching maturity, and the air must
be given freely whenever the weather is favour¬
able. Keep the soil in a moderate state as
regards moisture, and w f hen watering is necessary
let it be done thoroughly, and always with water
of the same temperature as that of the border.
To some, the question of a few' degrees* difference
between the temperature of the water used and
that of the border may seem of little moment,
but it not unfrequently makes all the difference
between a good crop and a bad one ; indeed, it
is by a combination of so-called little matters
that success in most matters is attained. Stop
and tie in successional plants, and carefully
guard the foliage from injury of every kind, ex¬
posing the fruit to light as much as possible.
It is not yet too late to plant more Melons if
wanted, but they should be got out without
further delay.

Outdoor fruit. —Apricots, Peaches, and
Nectarines may now* have the current year’s
shoots laid or tied in to trellises on walls, but
previously stop all the sub-laterals that have
formed on them, and also remove any blistered
or half-decayed foliage. Well wash the trees
w'ith|t]|ie garden engine os often r.s time can bo
afforded ; this operation keeps spider in check

ijREAfiA-CHArMGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 19, 1884.

and waters a portion of the ground that would
not otherwise get watered, viz., that under the
coping close to the wall. Continue to remove
breastwood and all other unnecessary growths
from Pears and Plums on walls. Keep the branches
wide apart, that sun and light may have ready
access to every bud. (rather small fruits when
perfectly dry, and net closely up with hexagon
netting any that have to be kept for dessert
purposes. The birds have now become so daring
that without netting or shooting it is hopeless
to expect fruit. They are at this season attack¬
ing even Morello Cherries, and that, too, before
they are half ripe—would that they confined
their depredations to the gardens of those who
so earnestly advocate their preservation. When
Strawberry gathering is over for the season,

S lots that are to remain another year should
ave all their runners, together with a portion
of the leaves most injured, cut off, and all
weeds eradicated ; afterwards “ point ” over the
ground, and when that is done apply a mulching
of good manure. New plantations may still be
made with forced plants, but rather than plant a
bad stock, such, for instance, as a kind that has
not done well in forcing, layer at once in small
pots from plants that have borne well, and plant
out as soon as well rooted. If got in before the
end of August the probabilities are in favour of
a full crop next year. Fruit trees of any kind
that are bearing anything like a full crop should
have liberal treatment in the way of rich
manurial mulchings; and if there be but a
suspicion of dryness, plentiful supplies of water ;
also thin out the fruit, particularly the finer
varieties of Pears. The earliest varieties of
Apricots are now taking their final swelling,
and a good manurial watering would tell greatly
on their size. Protect them from birds and
squirrels ; if the latter commence an attack on
fruit they cease not till all are gone.

Vegetables.

Succession al cropping. —Shallots, Garlic,
early Peas, early Cauliflowers, autumn-sown
Onions, and the earliest kinds of Potatoes ought
to be by this time cleared off, and let the ground
be cropped as follows : On the Shallot, Garlic,
and Onion ground put Lettuces, Endive, Turnips,
and early Horn Carrots ; on the Cauliflower
ground, winter Spinach ; and on the Potato
ground, Broccoli or other kinds of winter Greens.
If the ground was well treated for the preceding
crops, no preparation beyond that of cleaning
and levelling will now be necessary. We
usually plant the main crop of Broccoli on the
Strawberry plot that has done duty for two
years. As soon as the fruit has all been
gathered, the plants are planed off with spades,
and the Broccoli plauted between the rows, in
holes made with a crowbar, and filled in with
fine soil. Under these conditions Broccoli
thrives at least a3 well as on ground that has
been elaborately prepared, putting out of ques¬
tion the saving of labour and time. Small
saladings, Mustard, Cress, Radishes, &c., may
still be sown in open borders in small quantities
weekly, and as French Beans are not likely to
do much good outside, provision should be made
for making a sowing forthwith either in frames
or in pots, to be introduced into houses or pits
as room can be found fqr them.

Tomatoes. —The naturally vigorous habit of
these plants is such that they’usually grow too
rank if they receive over much moisture at the
roots, but in exceedingly dry wea\her they must
be regularly supplied with water, or the fruit
will neither swell to the requisite size, nor will
the plants continue growing. Do not allow
them to get too much crowded with super¬
abundant shoots or to hang loosely from the
wall, or the progress will be slow. They should
be kept regularly and evenly trained, so that
the sun can reach every part.

Herbs. —In drying herbs an open shed or
room, where plenty of air can be given, is neces¬
sary. Stretcn out a piece of netting, such as is
used for protecting fruit from birds (wire net¬
ting, if at hand, will do); on this lay the herbs
(which should be cut when quite dry) thinly.
Thus treated, air acts upon them from all sides,
and they dry miickly without losing their best
properties. When perfectly dry put them
loosely in white paper bags, tie them up, and
hang them where they will be free from damp.
Herbs treated in this way will be found to be
but little inferior torfuSh as are fresh cut. Sage
should be propagaralls, thUbJig^oft mid¬

dling-sized branches and inserting them mode¬
rately deep in the ground in rows where they
are to be grown. If the weather becomes dry
give them plenty of water until they are rooted.
The advantage of growing Sage from slips or
cuttings is that plants so produced have not
such a disposition to flower as those raised from
seed.

FRUIT.

11702.—Strawberry plants not bloom¬
ing 1 . —The runners were taken from barren
plants, hence their not blooming. I have some
large plants, only one side with fruit and the
rest barren. The barren plants always throw
out numerous runners. The plan I now adopt
is, I take runners from plants that bear, and
put them in a separate piece of ground. In
the spring I go over them, and pull up all
plants that do not show blossom, and replace
worn-out plants with the bearing runners. I
many years ago had some splendid-looking
barren plants, and manured them well, hoping
they would bear next year, but they bore leaves
only.— General.

11690.—Strawberries in pots in the
open ground. —The plants could be grown,
and the fruit ripened in pots, placed out of doors
and plunged. It would be a great deal of
trouble to attend to them during the hot
weather before the fruit ripened. A new set of
plants would have to be grown annually from
runners : and the slugs would get at the fruit as
easily when the plants were grown in pots as
in the open ground. The pots would also
require to be plunged quite up to the rims in
winter, to preserve them from the effects of
frost. Indeed, the advantages to be gained
may almost be said to be nil. The slugs could
be destroyed by dusting round the plants with
soot occasionally during the spring months.—
J. D. E.

11692. —Old Currant bushes. — The
bushes alluded to in this question are evidently
old and worn out. In such circumstances it
would be better to root them out altogether and
plant young bushes. The ground will require
to be trenched up 18 inches or even 2 feet deep,
and a quantity of manure incorporated with it.
When the bushes are planted a few spadefuls of
good loam should be placed round the roots of
each plant. Ogden’s Black and Black Naples are
good varieties to plant.—J. D. E.

11714.— Diseased Grapes.— They are scalded. The
varietv Lady Downes is more liable to scald than any
other kind. The cure is to admit plenty of air into the
house by day, and also at night if the weather is not too
cold. Lady Downes will get scalded in a house while
other sorts may be uninjured.—J. D. E.

11704.— Young Mulberry tree— Probably the
anker has been caused by the roots getting down into un¬
suitable soil. In that cast* the right thing to do would be
to diground the roots, making a round trench about4 feet
from tke stem ; dig down about 2 feet, aud thifen work with
forks under the bill of earth to cut any roots that have
gone into the sub-soil. Replace the soil that has been
taken out with good loam.—J. D. E.

11702. — Fruitless Strawberry plants. —The
plants are likelv to “ remain for ever barren.” It is ease
enough to get fresh runners from fruiting plants. Keen’s
Seedling, President, Sir Joseph Paxton, James Veitch, and
Frogmore Late Pine are good kinds to plant.—J. D. E.

Layering Strawberries.— Pieces of turf 2in.
thick, and of such a size as to admit of their being con¬
veniently put into 5 inch pots, if sunk in the ground just
deep enough to allow them to be covered, and the runners
firmly pegged in the centre, will be found an expeditious
mode of obtaining fine, healthy plants for forcing. If the
turf be dry it should be soaked in a tub of witer before it
is used.

ROSES.

11715.—Greenfly on Rose trees.—A
severe attack of greenfly is usually a sign that
the trees are in bad health. Grow Roses tho¬
roughly well, and they will be little troubled
with greenfly. Thin out all the heads well at
pruning time, leaving only four Btrong shoots
on a standard, and pruning these back to a
stout outlooking bud. Give weak doses of
liquid manure if the weather varies greatly in
temperature, and syringe with pure tepid soft
water after sunset in dry weather. Unhealthy
trees and trimmed Hawthorn hedges are fertile
nurseries of greenfly. A quick hedge should
never be brought near Roses, unless it is pretty
well allowed jo run wild. Syringing with pure
water, and b pushing the infected shoots with a
hog-hair bmsh, are good ways of getting rid of
the pests; stir them up with the brusn first,

and then wash them off with a sharp squirt of
the syringe.—J. D.

Rose house. — A span roof structure is
the best form for Roses, in a garden near here
there is a Rose house which answers remarkably
well. It is span-roofed, faces the south, the
sides being glass from the ground, and 10 feet
high. There is a border round the sides, and a
bed in the centre; width of house about 18 feet.
This gives a maximum of light, and the chanee
of growing many kinds, some being trained up
the sides as pillar Roses, others covering the
roof thinly, and others again in pots occupying
the centre bed. An ordinary span will, how¬
ever, answer very well.—J. C. B.

The Japanese, or Raman as Rose.—
Of all single Roses in flower, this is just now
the best and the sweetest. It is distinct and
beautiful alike in leafage and in blossom.
Planted in good deep rich soil, it spreads rapidly,
throwing up strong sucker shoots from its
underground stems, and these flower freely all
the summer months, and the flowers are suc¬
ceeded by large oblate fruits or hips, quite an
inch in diameter, and of a bright glossy lacquer*
like red colour when ripe. Its deep green
leaves, netted like those of Salix reticulata, are
much used by our lady friends to wear with the
half-opened buds of China, Banksian, Tea, and
other Roses, or with the rich deep rosy buds of
this Japan Rose itself. Cut in the bud state,
its flowers open fresh and fair in water, and
possess a singularly rich and piquant attar-like
perfume. The snow-white variety is not quite so
common, but is, if possible, even more beautiful.

Roses pegged down. —Each succeeding
year this method of growing Roses has an in
creased number of adherents. Those who give
it a trial soon discover the advantages w’hich it
possesses. Not only does it produce a larger
quantity of well developed flowers than the
ordinary bush system, but in the case of per
petual flowering varieties, a better succession is
kept up. This latter, 1 find, can be secured
by allowing the shoots to remain in an erect
position after they have been shortened to the
required length until they have broken and the
young growths have attained a length of 4 inches
or 5 inches, instead of pegging them down as
soon as they have been pruned ; w hen left for a
time erect in this manner, they do not at once
push growth the whole length of the shoots re¬
tained in the way that occurs when immediately
pegged down to a horizontal position, but br?au
some four or half-a-dozen of the eyes at the
points. When these have grown a few inches,
as already stated, and the shoots are tiien
pegged horizontally, it has the effect of cam ing
the lower unbroken eyes to move and to
come on three or four weeks later ttian
those nearer the extremity, yielding quanti ties
of fine flowers during the interval between the
first bloom of the leading shoots and their iuc-
cessioual-flowering. In this way there i i so
much less gap in the blooming, which, j t is
needless to say, is a gain with those whog row
Roses for ordinary purposes. One.greatad au-
tage in the case of the pegging down syster i is
that there is no bare ground ; all is covere l so
thickly that very few weeds appear, and in dry
weather the foliage lessens evaporation, hus
reducing the quantity of water needed to 1 eep
mildew in check, as this injurious parasit in
a great measure owes its presence to insuffh ent
root moisture.—T.

Roses on trees. —I have lately noticed s 'me
very pretty effects produced by planting cl nb-
ing Roses amongst trees and shrubs, and al aw¬
ing them to scramble over them as they ike.
No pruning is given them ; merely the loi jest
shoots are fastened securely to the ne; rest
support, and a really beautiful display hey
make w T hen in flower. Such sorts as Du dee
Rambler are specially suited for climbing >fty
trees ; many of the old-fashioned Roses, xx>,
are lovely trained on walls or fences, or ven
grown in hedgerows and allowed to run ild,
the long shoots of the previous year’s gr vth
forming wreaths of blossoms. I am convi ced
that Roses of any kind do not need such ard
pruning as they generally get. It is all ery
well for exhibitors, who are content to ge one
or two perfect blooms from a plant, to pru ) as
they find it suits their purpose; but fo the
majority of people who grow Roses for eff b in
|fti asses, or for blooms to fill the flower bi—iet,
I feel sure that the knife can hardly be too

1

July 19, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

225

sparingly used. Cut out the dead shoots or
weakly spray in winter, but leave strong shoots
their entire length, and a beautiful effect will
be the result. I have at present some plants,
only planted last autumn, loaded with blossoms ;
they have not been pruned at all, with the
exception of removing the tips, lately, that
were killed by the severe weather in March,
and they have as much bloom on them as Roses
generally produce when three years old, pruned
in the orthodox way,—J.

11706.—Moving Rose trees.— If they
are removed in August all the roots must be
carefully preserved when they are dug out of
the ground. Round baskets or boxes should
be ready, with very damp moss or cocoa-nut
fibre in which to cover the roots. Tie the
branches together to keep them steady. The
leaves should be damped as often as it is con¬
venient to do so, until they are again planted
in the ground. The leaves should be syringed
or watered several times during the day, until
roots are formed.—J. I). E.

Roses and Rose elections. —In continua¬
tion of my remarks on the best Roses, I now
make a short selection of a few useful Roses for
amateurs out of the following classes
Bourbons, Noisettes, Hybrid Teas, Chinese,
Moss, Hybrid Chinas, and Hybrid Bourbons.
Among the Bourbons we find two old and
especial favourites, without which no rosarian’s
collection would be complete—viz., Souvenir de
Malmaison and Baron de Maynard. The first
of these is charming in any situation, whether
under glass or on a wall, or grown as a standard,
and is one of the very best autumn blooming
Roses grown. As to Baronne de Maynard, this
Rose is still considered by many to be the finest
white for exhibition purposes, and it has done
good service on innumerable occasions. As we
nave so few really good pure white Roses, it is
as well to have the Baronne in possession. Rev.
H. Dorabrain, crimson, shaded violet, and
Abbe Girardin, satin pink, are also very fine in
this class. Among the Noisettes there are
some choice wall Roses, and the selections may
be more liberally made Of the Golden
Noisettes, Lamarque and Celine Forestier will
take the first place as wall Roses. Cloth of
Gold is a fine Rose for a south wall; but
it is very capricious, and shy of bloom¬
ing, and only fit for a large collection.
Bouquet d’Or and Madame Caroline Kuster are
very beautiful, whilst Jaune Desprez (fawn and
yellow), and Reve d’Or (orange yellow), are

? ;rand climbers for covering high walls ; the
onner is very fragrant. The Hybrid Teas con¬
tain some of the most useful, beautiful, and at the
same time most vigorous growers and climbers
among the Rose family; some of them are
rampant, where they take to the soil ; the
flowers are fine and bold, and the foliage
graceful. First, then, I would especially
mention Cheshunt Hybrid, with its large deep-
built cherry carmine flowers, and oh ! wbat a
climber—a rival to Gloire de Dijon. This and
Heine Marie Henriette (or better known as pink
Gloire de Dijon) are the pick of the class for a
wall ; whilst Lady Mary Fitzwilliam (in the
w'ay of Captain Christy). These, in company
with the Countess of Pembroke and the Honour¬
able George Bancroft, make up the select few.
In the Chinese class Mrs. Bosanciuet bears away
the palm—colour, pale flesh, aelicate, waxy,
free blooming, ana beautiful. Ducher is a
pretty cream-coloured flower; whilst Clara
Sylvain is of the purest white colour and very
chaste. All the class are most abundant
bloomers. The Hybrid Chinas include some
old and tried favourites and grand climbers
in Blairii No. 2 (rosy blush), Madame Plantier
(white); and Fulgens, fiery crimson is exquisite.
Of Moss Roses, White Bath, Gloire des Mous-
•euses. Old Moss, and Little Gem, with its
charming buds, make up the cream. Finally,
the Hybrid Bourbons furnish useful and superb
lowers. Old Charles Law'son stands at the
lead, of the list; in colour, vivid crimson, large
md beautiful in form. I think out of the whole
A the great Rose family there is not one to be
band possessing a finer constitution or more
x-bust habit; it is easy to grow, easy to propa-
afce, and truly an amateur's Rose; robust as a
blah, good as a standard, beautiful as a climber,
and will make a capital fence almost eoual to a
thorn, and far more ^beautiful. — William
PfliLLipag, ^ Q ^

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 205.^

The Black Currant.

Plant in a moist situation, where the soil is
rich and deep, partial shade not objected to,
especially such shade as is afforded by a wall or
fence ; and the Black Currant succeeds better
under the shade of trees than any other fruit,
but the shade must not be too dense. When
the Black Currant stands long in one place, it
generally becomes a wide-spreading bush, with
more than one stem. I have generally found
the plant standing on single legs or stems
bear the finest fruit, but the stool-like bushes
are the longest lived and will bear the heaviest
load.

Propagation.

Like all the Ribes family, this strikes freely
from cuttings in any situation when planted
firmly in the ground in autumn. If the bushes
are to have only one stem, all the eyes must be
cut from the bottom. If the many-stemmed
bush is preferred no eyes need be taken out.
One has only to take off cuttings or slips of the
last year’s wood and plant firmly. The cuttings
should be planted in row s 1 foot apart, and
6 inches in the rows. In two years transplant
to an open situation, 2 feet between the
rows, and 1 foot from plant to plant. In
this position they may remain till planted finally.
In their fruiting quarters Black Currants make
wide spreading bushes when allowed to throw
up numerous stems. If confined to one stem
they w’ill not need so much space. In the
former case 7 feet, or even 8 feet, will not be too
much on deep, rich, moist land ; but 5 feet or
6 feet will be sufficient space for the smaller
plants trained to one stem. As regards the
Black Currant, I am decidedly in favour of the
many-stemmed bush, whilst Gooseberries and
Red and White Currants I would rigorously
confine to one stem.

Pruning.

The Black Currant bears on the young wood,
therefore it is absolutely necessary that growth
should be encouraged, and also that plenty
should be left on the bush. When I say
“ plenty,” I do not mean that all the young wood
should be left, as that would ruin not only our
present but our future prospects. In the case
of the Black Currant, pruning is a very impor¬
tant operation, nearly everything depending
upon its being rightly carried out, and to this
end it should be rightly understood. Enough
young wood should be left to beir a full
crop, and at the same time space must
be left for the admission of air and sun¬
shine, and for the new shoots, which the
system of shortening back old wood will de¬
velop. This should be done annually to keep
the bushes in a constant state of renewal.
Scarcely any shortening of the young wood
will be required, and no formally-shaped bush
is wanted. An open-headed, regularly-shaped
bush, well furnished with young wood, will bear
plenty of fruit. No attempt need be made to keep
the centre open. Uusually when the fruit gets
large the branches hang down alike, so that
virtually the centre does open up, though this
need not be provided for in any way. What
we want to arrive at is a bush 6 feet or 7 feet
high, so managed as to be furnished with young
fruit-bearing wood all over it, and this will
chiefly depend upon the pruner, and is done by
cutting out some of the old wood annually to
make room for new. The renovation of old
bushes is easily accomplished by cutting back
into the old wood, and thinning the young
shoots, which break away. Very fertile bushes
have been created out of old hide-bound scrubby
things in one season, which before being headed
down only looked fit for the rubbish heap.

Mulching and Watering.

To do the former would be within the means
of all, as short Grass would be better than
nothing, though manure will add size to the
fruit and strength to the bushes. Where the
sewage of the homestead flows into a tank near
the garden in dry seasons the Black Currant
crop will pay for a soaking as well as most
things.

Gathering the Fruit.

It is essential that the bushes should not be
too thick on the ground, or the fruit will not

ripen well together, and black Currants must
be gathered as soon as ripe, or they will fall and
be lost.

Varieties.

Lee’s Prolific and the Black Naples are the
best, and no one need plant more.

Red and White Currants.

For all practical purposes these may be
classed as one, though, at the same time, it is
better in planting to keep them separate, or
rather not mix tnem indiscriminately, as the
White Currant is dwarfer and less spreading in
habit, and will not require so much space as the
red variety. All the Ribes family are great
bearers, and seldom fail, and consequently
ought to be well fed. Before planting, the
ground should be well manured and deeply cul¬
tivated ; trenched up 2 feet at least, burying
some of the manure a foot deep. The surface
can be kept in condition by rich top-dressing.
In the ordinary course Currant bushes will last
a dozen years at least; and land that is to carry
one crop for so long a period should be
thoroughly done before planting.

Propagation.

All the bush fruits are so easily raised from
cuttings it is scarcely necessary to refer to any
other method, and all that need be said about
it is, have the cuttings as long and strong as
possible. Cut out all the eyes except the three
uppermost, plant firmly in rows a foot apart,
ana 6 inches in the row, and transplant at the
end of the second year. Currants are easily
raised from seeds, and, of course, all new
varieties have been obtained in that way, but
in order to obtain any result worth noting the
seed should be saved from the finest fruit of the
best variety.

Training and Pruning.

Standard trees are interesting, though perhaps
of but little real utility. Occasionally they
are obtained by grafting on some of the strong
growing American species, such as Ribes san-
guinea, R. aurea, &c., and this is the best and
most speedy way of obtaining them, though
they may be trained up from cuttings by re¬
moving all side shoots. When the necessary
height has been gained, the Red and White
Currants bear so well on spurs that, beyond
allowing for a certain natural increase in size,
there is no occasion to leave on a great amount
of young wood. This should not prevent a
young shoot being left wherever there is space
to fill, but it is very important that the centre
of the bush be kept open. A good deal of the
pruning, as regards the Red and White Currants,
should be done in the summer, about the third
or fourth week in June. The leading shoots
should be left unpruned, but all others
should be shortened back to three buds.
This will let in the air and sunshine, and its
influence will be beneficial, not only to the
present crop, but also in the future. The most
natural shape for dwarf Red and White Currant
bushes is the open centred cylinder. This is
obtained by cutting out all branches in the
centre when the bush is young, cutting always
to a bud pointing outwards.

Currants on Walls.

All bare places on walls or fences may be
filled with Currants. Aspect is a matter of no
consequence, but they are specially useful when
grown on a north wall. In such positions, if
protected from birds and wasps with hexagon
netting, the fruit will hang till winter if re¬
quired. The space allowed on walls should be
about 6 feet for each bush ; in fact, under all
circumstances and conditions, this is about the
amount of space which a Currant bush can
profitably fill. In dry soils it will be a great
help in hot weather if the ground can be
mulched. The increase in the bulk and weight
of the crop will pay for labour incurred.

Insects.

About June the greenfly appears on the young
shoots, fixing themselves on the under side of
the leaves, wnich soon assume a bronze tint and
curls up. The best remedy is to cut off the
affected shoots and burn them ; at the same
time to give the trees a good washing with soft
soap ana water. Soap-suds from the laundry
will do. A caterpillar—a near relative of the
Gooseberry caterpillar — eats -the leaves in
summer, usually making its appearance about

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

226

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 19, 1884.

June, and, if not picked off or destroyed in some
other way, quickly destroys all the leaves.
Hand-picking is the best plan, and the next
best course is to wash the trees with something
nasty that the things don’t like ; soap-suds,
and even clean water, has a deterrent effect,
and many are dislodged by it, Perhaps
the worst enemy to contend with, or, at
least, if it was common it would be difficult
to deal with it, is the larvte of a moth (Sesia
tipuliformis) which lives in the interior of the
young branches, where it eats out the centre,
and the young wood dies, the tree ultimately
sharing the same fate. When it gets into a
garden, the best course is to destroy all the
Currant bushes and stamp it out at once, and
obtain young trees from a new source. This
may seem a disagreeable measure to take,
but there is no other so certain, and it
will be the cheapest in the long run.
To afford protection from birds nets must be
used. To preserve late fruit it is a good plan
to fence a piece of land in with a framework
strong enough to support a net, which is drawn
over when the fruit begins to ripen. I know a
garden where the Strawberries and bush fruits
are worked on this principle. And one set of
nets does for both, as the early Strawberries are
generally cleared off by the time the Gooseberry
and Currant quarter is ready for covering.
Single bushes may be covered with mats or
hexagon netting, and this protects them from
wasps.

Varieties. —Reds • The Red Dutch, Warner’s
Grape, The Cherry (very large), Raby Castle
(very late). Whites : White Dutch, Transparent
White. E. Hobday.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11719.—Bran and slugs.—I am not sur¬
prised that “ H. Jones ” has not been successful
in his employment of bran as a means for destroy¬
ing slugs. For a time success will appear
certain. The slugs will leave everything and
crowd to the bran, but they will soon want a
change of diet, when they will return to their
depredations on the plants. Should dry weather
set in within a short time after the commence¬
ment of using the bran, and, as a consequence,
few or no slugs appearing, the operator might
fancy that the absence of slugs is due to the
success of his experiment, but on return of
showery weather he will soon be undeceived. I
think I have given hand-picking of slugs a fair
trial both with and without bran. For several
years I have been at it every night and morning
from spring to autumn, and I have come to the
conclusion that slugs, in a dripping season, can
never be kept down by that means. Nor will
it surprise us if we consider that whilst wc are
destroying slugs by hundreds the survivors are
producing eggs by thousands.—L. C. K.

11720.—Hot water and aphis.—I am
afraid “A. M.” will make nothing of his endea¬
vour to destroy the aphis on Roses by syring¬
ing them with hot water, as it would be impos¬
sible to get the water to be just the right
temperature when it reached the insects to be
destroyed. For plunging in hot water the
minimum temperature is 130 degs. Some tender
plants would be injured at 140 degs., whilst
others will stand 150 degs. without being in¬
jured. I would advise “ A. M.” to get a pound
tin of Tobacco powder, price Is. The powder
is very fine, and a small quantity will go a long
way. It can be shaken through a muslin bag or
a fine dredger, or a distributor could be obtained
from the florist, price 2s. fid.—L. C. K.

-Dissolve 2 ounces of soft soap in a gallon of hot

water. It will not injure the Roses at 120 degs., and it is
deadly poison to the aphis. The trees should be well
syringed with it. It is not well to let it get into contact
with the roots. The little that would soak in during the
process of syringing would do no harm : but no more
should bo allowed to get to the roots than can be avoided.—
J. D. E.

11683. —Aubrietias not flowering 1 .—Avoid manure,
plant them between large stones or rocks, in poor, sandy
soil, and let them hang over the stones, so as to be kept
dry. This treatment has never failed with me to produce
perfect masses of bloom, and of long continuance and suc¬
cession, in A. gr*ca and deltoidea.—H. J. Allen, Fcrmlene,
Blackrock, Ireland.

11663.—Killing snails.—The best way to kill snails is
to plunge them into boiling water, which kills them imme¬
diately. Care must t*e taker* that the wateais boiling.—

by GCK Qle

11707.— Lilium auratum.— The plants ought to bo
taken into a greenhouse, or, failing that, into a light room
in the dwelling-house just before the flowers open. They
will expand better under glass, and be safe from wind and
rain, which damages them greatly.—J. D. E.

gas water or carbolic? How much water should be mixed
with a gallon of oil or carbolic?—T. Tump.

11745.— Grubs in Onion beds. — Will someone
kindly let me know how to get rid of grubs in an Onion
bed ?—Simple.

E. P. F .—Double Antirrhinums are not uncommon.-

F. If. TavieU. —The Tuberose is a very fine one, and well
worth looking after ; but we fear you will not get the

flowers so large again from the same bulbs.- A. 1 York. —

The insect in the Plum tree is brown scale. When the
leaves fall scrub the brunches with a small, stiff brush and
some soapy water, then paint the branches with linseed

oil.- Lucky .—The plants are well worth growing in

group in Shrubberies, &c., but there is nothing remark¬
able in the blooms sent.

Names Ot plants. Wane Godley. —Ptcris tremula.

- W. F .—Phyllocactus crenatus.- Raymond.— Lim-

nanthes Douglosi.- J. A. R .—We do not name varieties

of the Rose.- Mrs. Knight. —Lilium undulatum.- Dis-

viKir .—Lilium Martagon.- Andrew Smith.—1, Lilium

umbellatum ; 2, llemerocallis flava ; 3, Sedum reflexum ;

4, Campanula pumila alba.- Fury. —1, Lamium macula-

turn aureum; 2, Sedum carneum variegatum; 3, Selaginella;

4, Send a frond with spores on it and we will name.-

L. H. E .—Barkhansia rosea.- M. Robinson. —1, A blue-

flowered Campanula, but impossible to name species from
a single bloom only; 2, Campanula pumila alba ; 3,
Veronica spicata variegata. The yellow flower is a species

of Thalictrum.- Sale. — a, Lysirnachia Nummularia; b,

Silene sp. ; c, Geranium sp.- Edmund Burke.— French

Honeysuckle ; Hedysarum coronarium.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.—All communications

for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answered. When more than one qtiery is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when good
specimens are sent. Wc do not undertake to name varieties
of jlorists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias , Geraniums, Azaleas,
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist who
has the means of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to name should always
accompany the parcel.

11736.— Roses green In centre.— Will someone
kindly say what is the reason of green leaves growing in
the middle of Roses ? They are common kinds, but have
never grown like this until the last year or two. Do they
want richer soil ?—E. B.

11737.— Treatment of Ferns.— What is the best
treatment to promote growth and health in Ferns under
glass ?—Subscriber.

11738.—Blight on Vegetable Marrows.— What
remedy will check the blight on Vegetable Marrows this
hot season ?— Subscriber.

11739. Plan of garden.—I have a triangular-shaped
piece of land, which I wish to plan out as a garden for the
cultivation of flowers, fruit, and vegetables, about 20 yards
facing south, 50 yards west, 30 yards north-east, and the
house east, 18 inches of good soil with clay underneath,
which has been drained. On part of the west side is a wall
25 yards long, 5 feet high, and no trees to obstruct the sun’s'
line. Now, I would like to receive suggestions as to plan¬
ning and to future operations, so that I may make the
most of this bit of land, and enjoy its fruits, &e.—J imbo.

11740.—Village flower show.—I would be glad to
receive a few practical hints respecting the establishing
and management of a flower, fruit, and vegetable show, to
encourage the art of gardening in a village, especially
amongst cottagers. Reference to nny book on the subject,
with price and name of publisher, will also be esteemed.—
Jimbo.

11741.—Trees for screen.—At the end of my garden
(north) I have a very old bare wall, overlooking which is
cottage property. What quick-growing trees and shrubs
could I plant to hide both? I should like flowering or
berry-bearing shrubs if possible. The wall is 6 feet, and
border 4 feet; soil light.—F. W. W.

11742.—Fly on Chrysanthemums.— Can anyone
give me information respecting my Chrysanthemums ?
They are covered with greenfly. I should boglad to know
what I can do to cure them. They are mostly Japanese
varieties.— A Constant Reader.

11746.—Columbines.— Two pale pink Columbines
gradually lost all their horned petals, substituting for them
three rows of pink calycine leaves. Is this common ?—
Mrs. R.

11747. —Seed ol Canterbury Bells.—I am anxious
to save the seeds of some very fine Canterbury Bells. How
long must tho plants remain In the ground after all tho
flowers have turned browui ? — Mrs. I£.

11748.— Irises from seed —I sowed some Iris seed
under a south wall in October ; they came up well, and are
now r about 5 inches high. Had I better transplant them
or leave them where they are ? I am very desirous to
cultivate them carefully. How many years probably before
they bloom.— Mrs. R.

11749. -Agapanthus in open air.—I shall feel
obliged for information on the culture of Agapanthus in
the open air in Dorset.— Mrs. R.

11750.—Attic for plants.—I have neither greenhouse
nor frame. Will a large airy attic do as a substitute? It
has two large windows with broad window seats. One
faces north, receiving the east sun ; the other due south.
Which window is best for keeping Geraniums, &c., during
the winter ?— Mrs. R.

11751.—Fertilising Tomatoes.—Would some reader
kindly inform me how to set the fruits of Tomatoes ? I
have six strong plants—some of them in flow er—three in¬
side and the same number outside. I am told the blooms
must be fertilised or they will not come to anything. Any
information will be thankfully received by— A Beoinner.

11752.— Treatment of Edelweiss.—I should be
much obliged if someone w-ould inform me the correct
treatment for Edelweiss. I have three young plants grow¬
ing nicely about 4 inches high, which I havo raised from
seed brought from Switzerland in September last year, and
am very anxious they should grow and do well.— Stork
Prior, Broriisgrove .

11753.—Treatment of Cacti.— Would any practical
Cactus grower give me a little advice ? I have two plants
which 1 should like to grow ; one is in the shape of a
cricket ball, only so much larger, and covered all over
with short prickles. I have had it now’ two years, aud it is
just showing bloom ; it bears an immense trumpet-shaped
flower ; it is in a 4-inch pot in ordinary loam. Would it do
better in a larger pot, or would it be better to leave it has
it is ? The other one has leaves in a triangle shape ; it
bears bright scarlet flowers, but some of the leaves look
withered and dry. Would it be best to remove them ? It
has been in same pot about tw’o years in a cool greenhouse
—Walsall David.

11754;— Orchids for Fern case.—Would any reader
give me a bit of advice on the following ? I have a large
Fern case stocked with hardy Ferns. I want to dispense
with the largest, and substitute a few hardy Orchids. I
should like the names of a few’, also probable price, with a
cultural hint or tw’o.— Walsall David.

11755.—Keeping plant3 from draught.—I have
a number of plants—Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Musks,
Lobelias, and Nicotianas—and, as I am away all day, they
get very dry by evening. I think of placing them iii boxes
and covering the pots with Cocoanut fibre, and likewise to
make a light shade of calico. Would both bo needed ? If
only one is necessary, which one is best ?— Clapton.

11756.—Tulips and Crocuses after blooming.—
After my Tulips and Crocuses W’erc ripened I turned them
out of their pots. I found the Tulips divided, and the
Crocuses very small. What is the cause and remedy ?—
Clapton.

11757.— Heating a glasshouse. —Will any reader
inform me how 1 could heat a small glasshouse ? It is
'built against a window half-w’ay up, and about 4 feet out.
What sort of lamp could I get ? There is a small gas-pipo
close by. Would a single gas jet running through a pipe
do?— Novice.

1175S.— Lilium candidum. -I planted a lot of Lilium
camiidum last August. They failed to flower this year, and
have now withered down. 1 took up two of the bulbs, and
they seem to me to he getting rotten. Should I lift
them, or what should I do with them? Will someone also
answer query about my Crown Imperials not flowering
this year?— C. H. Rollkstox.

11759.— Onions and maggots.— At my house in the
country I have a bed of Onions which I am afraid I shall
lose. The roots arc infested with white worms, and thov
are going through the bed, destroying the Onions. Can
anyone tell mo what to do to destroy them?—F. E.
Williams.

11760.— Cucumbers dying.— My Cucumbers for
several years have looked and done w-ell till thev com¬
menced to fruit, when it seems as if all growth goes into
the fruit, and the plants graduallv dwindle off till the*
plant is quite dead. Would someone kindly tell mo the
reason of this, and suggest a remedy?— A Constant
Reader.

11743. — Cabbages failing. —About two months ago
I put in some Early Rainham Cabbage plants, which
appeared to do uncommonly well until a few days ago,
w’hcn I noticed that they began to droop a little. Think¬
ing that it was caused by the hot, dry weather, I gave
them water, hut with no good effect. * The other day I
pulled several up to ascertain the cause, when I found the
roots literally swarming with maggots, which had eaten
away all the root fibre, so that it was impossible for the
plant to grow. I should he glad if someone will kindly (for
the benefit of myself and others) state what they originate
from, their cause and cure or prevention for another year ?

I may say that, since making the discovery, a neighbour l
has found his Cabbages similarly infested. I also unfortu¬
nately And my Onions and seedling Broccoli, Savoy
Cabbages, &c., all moro or less injured by this or a similar
maggot. I havo only had the ground this year, hut last
year'it was planted with Potatoes, and before then it was
turf. It is in a drv situation, and I may say good soil.— |
J. H. W.

11744.—Killing weeds.-Can you kindly tell me
what is the best thing for killing weeds and Moss on a
drive under trees? Is petroleum and water better than

11761.—York and Lancaster Roses.—There is a
prize offered at the West, of Scotland Pansy Society Show,
on Wednesday, 23rd inst.. for twelve blooms of York and
Lancaster Roses. I would like to know how’ to distinguish
them as a class from the others.—A. T.

11702. — Maggot in Chrysanthemums aix-cl
Asters.— There is a maggot w'nich affects both Astc rs
and Chrysanthemums in my garden. The small gru^l)
burrows into the leaves, and is like the Celery fly. Wh^it
js the best cure ?— Aster.

11763.—Vine in pot.— Not having convenience f*>r
making a Vine border in my small greenhouse, will some
reader tell me what size pot or tub to grow’ a Vine in ai*d
what compost to use ?—C. W. M.

11764.—Cucumbers curling.— Can anv reader in-
form me the cause of Cucumbers curling and growing very
small at tho points as though tho plants arc spent out
which cannot be the case with mine ? They are Telegraph*!
ni in a large frame, and up to within tho last woek or

grown
so ’

I have already indicated.—C onbtaxt Reader.

ip^Trentment of _Cucjytmbor' plants.—i

so have done exceedingly wfelf,- but the fruit now'erows
have already indicated.—C onstant Reader.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

July 10, 1884]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

227

have in a frame two Cucumber plants (Telegraph) which
throw out long feelers or climbers. Should these be
pinched off or hot ? Some of my friends say pinch them
off as it makes the fruit larger by so doing; others say
don't pinch them off as it injures the plant. This being
my first year of Cucumber growing, the advise of some
practical grower will oblige.— Newton Heath.

11766.— Palm in flower. —Would the “ Dean of Ross”
please give the botanical name of the Java Palm, which in
the last i&sue of Gardening he states to be in flower in the
open air ?— Helper.

11767.—Treatment of Verbenas.—I have got a
present of a Verbena—a young plant not in flower—and I
want a few practical hints as to how I am to treat it.—
Expectation.

117SS.—Fruit trees not bearing 1 .—I should be
much obliged if anyone can tell me w hat to do to my fruit
trees. The Plums never bear, and seem old. The Apples
also bear badlv and arc full of old wood, and look very
ragged. The Pear trees bear about a dozen fruits a-year.
and look very old ond shaky. Fifteen years ago thoy all
looked and bore much better, but they have had nothing
done to them since. They are not in an orchard, but dis¬
tributed over the garden, which they spoil. Our soil is
heavy clay in Essex, and the water is very hard. What
would be a good Plum to put in now?—A. E. H.

11769 —Strawberry runners.— Are the first run¬
ners from Strawberry plants the best to make new beds»
cr are the later runners as good ?— Anon.

11770.— Barren Strawberries.— Is it best to remove
Strawberry plants that have not fruited this year, as not
likely to do so next season ? —Anon.

11771.— Improving flowers. -Will someone tell me
hf-w to increase the size and improve the colour of flowers?
I have a Forget-me-not which is very poor. I want to
improve it.— Emily.

11772.— Tulips after flowering. -I shall be obliged
If someone will tell me if it is best to pick the flowers off
Tulips when they fade. Also would Narcissi do better if
the flowers were taken off ?— Emily.

SHORT NOTES.

Watering Primroses.— Opinions appear to
be divided as to the advisability of watering
Primroses and Polyanthuses in the open ground.
A correspondent in Gardening lately asserted
that no greater mistake can be made with
respect to these plants than in giving them water
after they have flowered ; but in some soils aud in
some seasons the ripening process which drought
brings about is likely to be a crippling one, ami
in many instances plants die, when a good
watering or two would keep them alive awhile.
There is no comparison between a Primrose in
the open border and one in the friendly shelter
of a wood or hedgerow, so that where a blazing
sun can pour its unobstructed rays on the crowns
the waterpot must counteract the absence of
natural conditions. In heavy, moisture-holding
soils this attention is not so imperative ; but I
feel convinced that in those of a porous nature
Primroses cannot be successfully grown unless
occasionally watered in a time of drought.

Wallflowers. —Mr. O’Brieu, who states that
he has a good show of these fragrant flowers all
the winter through, must live in a very favoured
part indeed. That early-flowering kind, Har¬
binger, generally throws up some bloom in
autumn, and will in very mild winters continue
to flower sparsely through the dull months ;
but the ordinary kinds do not, in the neigh¬
bourhood of London, make any show before
spring, and are often seriously crippled by frost.
Market growers would be but too glad to have
this source of revenue through the bad season of
the year. It is a pity your correspondents so often
omit to name the locality from whence they
write, as by so doing they deprive their com¬
munications of much of their interest and
utility. Mr. O’Brien’s method of cutting the
top roots I think very good, as it naturally
causes the production of fibres nearer the
surface, which must have in all ways a bene¬
ficial effect in the case of retentive sorts. Pro¬
bably this operation would often be the means
of saving the lives of the double kinds, which
are so difficult to keep in health in many
places.

Scarlet Geum.— I lately saw a long border
all aglow with this hardy flower, a more or less
thick mass of scarlet, rivalling in intensity the
zonal itself! This is really a most valuable
plant to those who have no means of sheltering
Geraniums for bedding out, as it has the merit
of remaining in bloom for a long time, and is
so wonderfully effective. The single kind is
bright, but the double form much exceeds
it in brilliancy. I know of but one other hardy
flower that can equal it in this respect—viz.,
Lobelia fulgens, but that is a late summer and
autumn bloomer. Has anyone tried a bed of
this and the Geum mixed ? The one would
come in just as the freshness of the other was
on the wane. Such a/befl would be &i object

Digitized by ' QTt:

of beauty and brightness from early summer
till late autumn.

Annuals as substitutes for bedding
plants. —How to have a gay garden without
bedding plants is what perplexes many, and
yet the puzzle is of easy solution. 1 would
engage to have, a garden as bright as
could well be desired, without employing a
single ‘ ‘ bedder. ” In the first place there is Phlox
Drummondi grandiflora, varying in colour from
pure white to crimson, than which there
are few things more effective, aud which,
with liberal culture, bloom all through
late summer and autumn. If this does not
afford sufficient brilliancy there are Indian
Pinks, easily raised and as easily grown, and
Dwarf Nasturtiums. Then there are Crown
Daisies (Chrysanthemum tricolor Burridgea-
num, and Dunnetti), which equal the popular
Paris Daisies in continuity of bloom, Zinnias,
double and single, the pretty little yellow
Sanvitalia procumbens, Saponaria calabrica,
and last, but not least, French and African
Marigolds. A border planted with the above
would present in August and September a most
gay and varied aspect, costing, perhaps, 5s. for
seeds, and demanding no moro convenience
than a frame or hand-light or two. In French
provincial gardens, where glasshouses are
scarcer than with us, I have often been struck
with the fine display produced, even in
gardens where no greenhouse existed. In the
above list I have confined myself to such kinds
as flower uninterruptedly for a considerable
time ; but there are, of course, others, such as
Asters, Stocks, Balsams, &c., the use of which
will suggest itself to those who are wishful of
relying upon annuals for a summer display.

Daffodils. —Those who may be thinking of
making a selection of these now popular flowers
should not defer obtaining the bulbs until winter.
Narcissi are not like the majority of bulbs : they
sustain a certain loss of vitality if left out of
the soil for any time. Therefore those that may
have been kept stored in the seedsman’s shop
for several months necessarily suffer somewhat.
The right way is not to allow more than a few
days to intervene between taking up and plant¬
ing again ; but if obtained during the next two
months a good show of bloom may be relied on.

Small greenhouses.— I am thinking that
the greatest enemy to plants in small green¬
houses is defective ventilation and a too arid
atmosphere. Amateurs are apt to wonder why
they cannot grow their plants so well as those
they see at the florists, but, given the same
space, the conditions often differ too widely to
admit of this being done. Market growers and
others in the trade grow their plants in span-
roof structures abundantly ventilated, and over
which r the sun has not the power as in the case
of small lean-to*8, which are often nothing more
than sun-traps—mere ovens in which the poor
plants bake almost to death under a July sun.
In a house of this description the temperature
may leap at a bound some *20 degs. or more,
and it is these sudden severe changes that
cripple and destroy. A lean-to house, 20
feet long, should have at least three venti¬
lators at the top, sliding a couple of feet,
and as many at the bottom. This arrangement
allows of the admission of a volume of air when
the weather is hot, and when the nights are
warm and still. Twice a-day in hot weather—
viz., at eight in the morning and at five in the
evening—every plant should be thoroughly
syringed, and the glass and stages damped
down. This is the only way to keep down
insect pests ; they do not like the atmosphere
which plants most enjoy.

Corn Marigolds. — What a wonderfully
popular flower this has become within the last
year or so. Once termed a coarse weed, and
still one of the farmers’ greatest pests in many
parts of the country, it now sells better than
almost any hardy flower in cultivation. Nursery¬
men are growing it largely in pots, and the
Covent (larden salesmen can scarcely get enough
of it. Here the fields are overrun with it, and
one of the prettiest floral displays I have wit¬
nessed for a long time was a field of the red-
flowered Trifolium, thickly studded with Corn
Marigolds, with a sprinkling of blue

Corn flowers. —It is not very hardy but
it is worth while sowing a pinch of seed in
autumn on the chance of a mild winter, the dis¬
play made by plants that have stood over being
very fine.

Watering in the open ground. —In a time
of drought an occasional watering is indispen¬
sable in the case of tender bedding and other
plants, which are employed to create a sum¬
mer display. When the days are hot always
water in the evening, and do not give driblets
to such things as have been planted some weeks,
but rather bestow the time and water on a few
plants, that the soil may get a good soaking,
taking less plants each day, but giving them
enough to last for a week. Young seedlings
or some tender, freshly set out things, ought to
be gently watered and sprinkled every evening,
and unless they got such attention they are not
likely to make any great progress.

Aphides. —Never in my remembrance has
greenfly been such a scourge as this year.
Everything, indoors aud out, has been attacked ;
even the common willows are covered with this
pest. Nothing can grow thus infested, but
there are plenty of insectides both cheap and
efficacious. For syringing Rose trees and
similar things, dissolve soft soap in warm water
and syringe with it, at the rate of 4oz. to the
gallon, repeating the operation several times in
a week ; for some plants nothing is better than
Tobacco powder. If the first fly was attacked
that appears much trouble and vexation would
be saved.

Surrey . J. C.

NOTES ON GARDEN INSECTS.

Some of the readers of Gardening may be
glad of a few short remarks as to the best means
of destroying various insects which are now
making their very unwelcome presence felt in
our gardens. Among those which are the greatest
nliisance are

The caterpillars of certain small moths,
which attack the foliage and flower buds of Roses.
When standards and bush Roses are attacked
they may be destroyed by pinching the leaves
they are ensconced in, making sure that the
enemy does not drop out of the leaf before the
pinch is administered, or by cutting off the leaves
or buds and allowing them to fall into a basket
or other receptacle. Climbing Roses are more
difficult to reach, but a pair of scissors on a
handle, similar to those used in gathering Grapes,
might have a small basket or tin box fitted to it,
so that when the leaves or buds were cut, if the
caterpillars fell out they would be caught. These
caterpillars curl up and fasten the leaves together
in such a manner that no insecticide will reach
them. After pruning the trees, the shoots cut
off should always be burnt, as they may have eggs
on them.

The greenfly is a no less troublesome pest,
and may be best dealt with by using a wash of
some kind, which should be applied as soon as
any of these insects are noticed on the Roses,
for the greenfly increase and multiply with such
extraordinary rapidity that if the operation is
delayed for a few days the trouble of cleaning
the plants will be very greatly increased. The
wash may be composed of Hlb. of soft soap, 1
quart of Tobacco water, and 3 gallons of water,
or 4 oz. of Quassia chips, boilea for ten minutes
in a gallon of water ; when the chips are strained
off add 2 oz. of soft soap, or 2 lb. of washing
soda, 1 oz. of bitter Aloes, and 1 gallon of water.
The affected shoots may be either dipped in or
syringed with these mixtures. An hour or so
afterwards the plants should be well syringed
with clean water. Fruit trees suffer from the
attacks of various

Maggots and caterpillars, which destroy the
foliage and fruit. Those w'hich destroy the
former are the commonest. Some kinds may be
shaken from the branches; others must be
picked off by hand, or the leaves on which they
are feeding gathered. If the caterpillars do
not roll up the leaves, a good syringing with one
of the washes recommended for greenfly would
be very useful. The fruit should be examined,
if possible, from time to time, and any Apples
which have a black or reddish-brown spot on
them, indicating the entrance to the gallery
formed by the grub, should be at once destroyed.
All windfalls should be treated in the same
manner, and if we cannot save our fruit wo can
in this way kill the grub, and so help to lessen
the numbers of the next brood of moths.

Gooseberry caterpillars are of two kinds ;
one becomes a moth,, commonly known as the
magpie moth ; the other, which is the commonest
Bxarbjost fetruclive, is not a true caterpillar, but

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Digitized by

Gck igle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

JULY 26, 1884.

No. 281.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

THE GARDEN PINK.

Now is the time when young plants intended
to flower next season require attention. Neg¬
lect now means few flowers next year, and
those few poor in quality. For ordinary garden
purposes we divide the different varieties into
two sections, the early flowering or forcing
Pinks, and the laced varieties, which arc known
as “ Florists’ Pinks they have evidently a
common parentage, probably Dianthus pluma-
rius. The flowers of this species are white,
with a dark centre, the margin of the petals
being neatly toothed or fringed. The first
double Pinks had dark centres and fringed
petals. The florist likes smooth petals with
rounded edges, and, after patient working and
waiting, he has obtained them.

The early flowering varieties are propa¬
gated early in the season, because the cuttings
or “ Grass ” can be obtained early. Cuttings put
in about the end of April or early in May should
now be of considerable size, and ought to be
planted out a foot apart in rich garden soil. By
the end of September they form large masses,
which may be potted up or planted where they
are to flow er out of doors. The other section
succeeds best planted out in the open ground.
Cuttings are not usually ready for taking off
the plants before the middle or end of June ; if
taken off in showery weather and dibbled in in
a shady place they form roots very readily, but
to have them good they require to be planted
out about 4 inches apart as soon as they are
rooted. And they ought to l>e planted where
they are to flower before the middle of October;
if deferred later than this they do not get W’cll
established before winter. Under glass the
plants become infested with greenfly, but
this pest can easily be destroyed if taken in
time ; we, kow'ever, give plenty of air until
they are taken into the forcing house, and,
therefore, spider does not appear until
the plants are subjected to a close, w’arni
atmosphere. In heavy wet soils the Pink
requires special treatment. The beds must be
raised at least 6 inches above the surface ; a
good dressing of leaf-mould and rotten stable
manure should lie dug into the ground, and,
further, they may be grown extra fine by
placing over the beds a dressing of loam, leaf-
mould, and sand in equal parts, liefore putting
out the plants. Of course a great deal depends
apon how the work is done. Carelessness in
planting or removal may mar the labour of
months.

Seedlings may be raised by anyone living in
a favourable district, bat in order to be suc¬
cessful in this matter the flowers must be
artificially fertilised. The pollen should be
carefully removed with a small camel’s-hair
brush and applied to the stigmatic portion of
the flower, which rises amongst the petals in the
form of twisted horns. Pinks arc not often
self-fertilised ; they require, indeed, the help
of the brush before they produce good seeds.
Bees aid the work. I remember on one occa¬
sion obtaining a large quantity of good seeds
ithroagh no other agency. The seeds were,
however, unfortunately left in an open box to
Iry, and every one was eaten by mice, W'hich
kre very fond of them. The Beeds should be
K>wn in April in a box under glass, and aided
ly a slight hotbed. In a month the young
iUnts should be ready to be pricked out in
" xes, say 3 inches apart, and when the leaves
*ve met together they may bo planted out in
*ls and treated exactly as in the case of other
*mcd varieties. They will flower strongly
the middle of June, the season after they
o planted out, and it is very interesting to
«u.-h their flowering. Not one comes alike ;
«®e are semi-double, others single, but all are
interesting, their variety of colour and form
being great, and their pamflhe..all thajt jxfti!4 be
/esirech Digitized by ^

ORCHIS LATIFOLIA.

The Orchis of which a figure is here given is
one of many which have been grow'ing in my
arden for several years, and was originally
ug up from a wet meadow in the neighbour¬
hood of Etou, in Buckinghamshire, w'herc 0.
latifolia and 0. maculata grew together. The
large and stout bracts and the thickly-set
spike seem to come nearer to the type of 0.
latifolia, but an examination of many thousand
specimens has led me to conclude that it is

Orchis latifolia. Grown bv Rov. C. Wolley Dod, Edge
Hall, Mol pas.

hardly possible to draw a line of distinction
between the two species. One must be guided
more by general appearance and habit of growth
than by any definite and constant characteristics
in determining the difference. Neither tuber nor
leaf nor bracts afford any certain criterion,
but I found the most satisfactory test which
gives a standard of type to be the form of
the lower lip or petal of the corolla. In the
extreme type of 0. latifolia, which is to be
found in the true O. incarnata of Linnanis, a
plant very common in many of the bogs of
Carnarvonshire and Anglesey, as well as in parts
of Hampshire, this lip is very narrow, and
tapers gradually to a point. The growth of

these plants is low, and the flower spike even in
breadth throughout and less ornamental than
any other form of the species. The interme¬
diate form, in which the lower lip of the
corolla becomes broader, includes the strongest
growths and the most ornamental varieties to be
found, and both leaves and flowers are most
thickly marked w'ith spots. The other form,
which is that of the typical 0. maculata,
has the lip divided by two deep indentations
into three parts, the central point of which does
not descend below' the side lobes. These are the
only characters upon which I have been able to
rely as constant.

Cultivation. — It is best to select the plants
for this when in flower, as they vary much in
colour and habit. The tubers make feeding
roots, spreading horizontally from the crown;
in very wet, mossy places these will be found to
run along the surface of the ground, bat they
are generally from 2 inches to 4 inches beneath
the surface. A ball of sufficient size should
be taken up to include all these, and the tuber
and roots should be packed in wet Moss and
never allowed to get dry. The lx>g bed is a
good place to plant them, but if the soil of the
garden is moderately moist and retentive, they
do w'ell in an ordinary border. The tuber
should be about 4 inches under ground, and
surrounded with a handful of coarse road sand.
When first planted, and at all times w'hen grow ¬
ing, until out of flow'er, copious waterings should
be given in dry weather. A top-dressing of
leaf-mould and decayed manure in winter,
and again wffien coming into flower, helps
strong growth, which everything should be
done to promote. I find it best to leave
the roots quite undisturbed, unless they have
increased so much as to require dividing;
different bulbs vary much in this respect.
In selecting the plants, besides the question
of colour, which varies much, especially in
the mountain forms of 0. maculata, care
should be taken to choose those which show
at once the tallest and most robust growth
and the closest spikes of flow'ers, ns these habits
arc retained in cultivation. What I have
described as intermediate forms between 0.
latifolia and 0. maculata arc generally the
best. I have had some of these growing nearly
4 feet high, and w'ith closc-set spikes fully
1 foot long when all in flower. A well-known
garden Orchis, sold by dealers as 0. maculata
superba, or the Kilmarnock Orchis, belongs to
this class, and is one of the best, though I nave
found plants growing wild in North Wales
which I consider as good. Those who adopt
the cultivation of this class of terrestrial Orchis,
and give them liberal treatment, and allow them
time, before disturbing them, to devolope their
full growth, will not be disappointed with the
result.

Edge Halt, Mai pas. C. Wolley Dod.

PROPAGATION OF HARDY FLOWERS.
To succeed w'ith bedding and hardy outdoor
plants, propagation must bo constantly going
on. This may be by division, seed, cuttings, or
otherwise. In the case of the ordinary florist
flowers, as the Pansy and Viola, Polyanthus and
Primrose, alpine Auricula, Carnations, Picotecs
and Pinks, Gladioli, Fuchsias, tuberous-rooted
Begonias, Snapdragons, Dahlias, Hollyhocks,
Pentstemons, and Roses, as this is the time for
propagating or dividing most of them, a few
references to each may have some interest.

Pansy and Viola.— Except in moist and
semi-shaded gardens these are now* past their
best. The hot sunshine of the first w eeks of
Jane paralysed both Bhow and fancy sorts with
me, and I at once took as many shoots from the
centre as I could find—avoiding those with
large, hollow stems containing flower-buds—
and planted them in rows across boxes of loam,
carefully labelled, and out of the full glare of the
sun. This last is .important, .for I find shoots,
cuttings, or offsets of a suitable kind, put in with
a little ooarie* moist sand"around f;ha base, and
then sprinkled, never flag w'hen out of the full

230

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 26, 1884.

sunshine. My Scotch Violas and the common
blue are still a mass of bloom, but I have been
putting in shoots that have not flowered, and
picking an occasional pod of seeds from those I
wish to propagate, wherever I can get them. I
must again repeat, none should be satisfied with
merely having next year what they had this,
but should hybridise and save and grow seed,
with the view of getting better varieties, and
then it should be remembered seedlings have a
size and vigour cuttings never attain. This
applies to all the other flowers above named,
and will not require reiteration. If one really
good seedling out of a large packet—large,
round, and with that by no means common, but
indispensable property, flat habit of growth—can
be secured, worth naming and perpetuating,
consider yourself fortunate. This remark is
still more applicable to the

Polyanthus. —I have been hybridising and
growing seedlings for some years, yet I do not
think anything I have got can come near, say,
Exilo among dark-grown varieties, or Lancer
among the reds. I learn from Mr. Cannell,
whose opinion I once asked, that he and Mr.
Barlow would insist on the evenness of the
lacing to the one hundredth part of an inch. If
the gold*laced and fancy kinds are not yet
divided and replanted, no time should be lost,
as the weaker growers, which are generally the
best, are in warm weather very liable to red
spider on the foliage, and to a cankerous swel¬
ling of the rhizome—tho underground part of
the stem or neck—not the roots, as might seem
at first look. The Hose-in-hose are curious,
that is all; the gold-laced, dark grounds are my
favourites, next tho amoena marginata type.
The same applies to Primroses, but, as a rule,
seedlings are most satisfactory and robust.

Alpine Auriculas. —I w r as a warm advocate
some time ago for trying to grow the edged
varieties and the seifs outside under favourable
circumstances. I lost some valuable and expen¬
sive sorts in this w*ay ; had the farina, or “ wnite
meal,” washed off the white-edged ones, the
blooms soiled and splashed, and have become
wiser since ; and now grow them in a frame or
pit with a narrow stage around. The freest cir¬
culation of air reaches them here all the year
round. The alpines are planted out, but not in¬
variably : some of them have mealed foliage,
others are so beautifully shaded, and, still more,
so delicately sweet-scented, that they are well
worthy of part of a frame, cold pit, or in a
shaded, cool vinery. All can be grown outside
most easily, except in a very moist or gravelly
soil, or where too much exposed to the mid¬
summer sun. I am just saving my seed, and to
avoid delay in germination wdll put it in a pan
at once, though some may not germinate until
next February. If not already lifted and
divided, it should be done the first opportunity.
I do it annually, and secure every possible offset
from the more valuable kinds. Those taken off
in April last are now well rooted on the north
side of a hedge in a box of loam ; some green
and grey edges have been treated similarly, and
are now very strong outdoors.

Carnations, Pinks, and Picoteeh. —I like
the border or bedding kinds best, and, except
Malmaison and Mrs. >Vallington, pot none per¬
manently. I got a few fringed ones last year,
and though they will not stand the florist test I
like them best. There is no occasion to wait a
month hence to propagate. The stronger they
are before winter the less danger of losing them.
I grow most of mine from cuttings taken clean
below a joint. I find them surer than pipings,
except very carefully extracted, and more con¬
venient than the customary pegging around the
rim of the pot. Several score can be put in a
hand box. Except your stock is named, it is
often judicious to wait and see the varieties best
worth propagating. Picotees in my soil I find
more tender, and liable to get lost in winter.
Pinks are deserving more extended culture, the
collapse of the exhibition of them illustrating
this—not for want of money, but growers. The
flaked and laced old Pheasant’s-eye, Mrs.
Sinkius, and old fringed white were good with
me.

Fuchsias. —I have several lines and beds of
these outdoors, and many varieties, especially
Lye’s and some of Mr. Banks’ and Cannell’s, out
for the past throe winters without losing one,
merely protected with a small mound of coal ash.
Daring the past moirth -or two, since hide shoots
got sufficiently devetoped^I p iv ^bjk^idserting

those I wished to increase in boxes of loam.
Put them in with or without a heel in the shade
of a hedge or tree, with a little coarse sand at
the base, and after sprinkling they never flag.
Any of your readers who have not grown
Fuchsias outdoors in this way for summer and
autumn decoration have yet a treat in store for
themselves. Put in also cuttings of Snap¬
dragons and Pentstemons similarly, and as this
is not exactly the time for increasing, but for
admiring, your beautiful beds of tuberous
Begonias and Roses, I pass on only to refer to
the expectant pleasures later on from Gladioli
—one of my great favourites—Dahlias, and
Hollyhocks, which include the few mentioned
above.

Clonmel. W. J.

BORDER CARNATIONS.

Again the Carnation and Pico tee season has
come round, and exhibitors of these sweet
flowers will be striving to outvie each other in
showing the biggest and best trimmed blooms.
These exhibition Carnations are beautiful, it must
be admitted, but for our part we would rather see
them growing freely and naturally in the open
air, without the disbudding,| trimming, and
other little details which the exhibiting
cultivator deems indispensable for the pro¬
duction of fine blooms. There cannot possibly
be a more lovely floral sight in the open-
air garden at this season than masses of Car¬
nations and Picotees, particularly self-coloured
border varieties, always so rich and beautiful.
It was a happy thought of Messrs. Veitch some
three or four years ago to make an annual dis¬
play of Carnations and Picotees in their town
nursery—such a display could not be found
elsewhere in London—and, besides, it conclu¬
sively proves that the culture of these beautiful
hardy flowers can be brought to perfection in one
of the most populous neighbourhoods of the
town. Here they are all planted out, and in
most cases one variety occupies a large bed, so
that the masses of the various colours are
imposing. The healthy vigour of the foliage
and the extreme floriferousness of the plants,
combined with the fine quality of their blooms
as regards size and form, point to the fact that
neither Carnations nor Picotees require such
skilful cultivation as people are apt to imagine
they do, in order to obtain beautiful flowers.
As a screen from the direct rays of the sun the
plants are protected overhead by an awning,
as excessive heat, combined with rain, impairs
the blooms.

The collection contains all the finest varieties
of Carnations, both border and show or fancy
kinds, as well as of Picotees ; but as it is to the
border kinds we more particularly allude, we
will only enumerate a few of the newest and
most striking of these. Virgo, a very free
flowerer and strong grower, the blooms being
not large but of good form and pure whiteness;
Earl of Beaconsfield, a rose flake with large
blooms and an abundant flowerer, and, more¬
over, possessing a strong constitution; Sir
Beauchamp Seymour, a seedling raised at
Messrs. Veitch’s Langley nursery, and first
flowered last season. The flowers are large and
full, the colour a reddish orange, stained at the
margins with a richer colour. It is in every
sense a fine variety, and distinct from others of
a similar colour. Mary Morris is a lovely
variety, remarkable for its extreme florifer¬
ousness and the large size of its full flowers
of a pleasing rose-pink. It is a vigorous
grower and a real addition. The Governor,
another new sort, has large and full flowers
of a delicate bluish white, but it is not
all that could be wished as regards constitution
or floriferousness, at least, judging by the
specimens under notice. A selection of the
older sorts includes: Of whites, W. P. Milner,
one of the best if not the very best of all, being
of a pure white, large, full, and extremely free,
some plants having between forty and fifty
flowers and buds; The Bride has large pure
white flowers, freely produced. Of purples, or
rather so-called purples, are Royal Purple, the
best of its colour, which is a vivid violet-purple;
Walter Ware, deeper and also very fine ; and
another of a similar tint, but lighter than the
last, is Auctioneer, remarkable for its profuse¬
ness of flower and good habit. The scarlets
are more numerous, tne beat being The Coroner,
a glowing cerise, very beautiful; Fireman,

similar, but quite distinct in tint; Dan God¬
frey, vermilion-scarlet; and Magnum Bonum,
considered to be the finest of all scarlets;
other fine scarlets are Heaton Bank and
James Wilkins; Amethyst is the best of
the deep maroon-crimsons ; and Gertrude
Teignor has flowers of a lovely rose-pink, freely
produced. Of yellows are Chromatella and
Stanstead Beauty, both clear yellows; while
Florence, which was honoured with a certificate
last year, is of a yellowish buff, quite distinct
from any other. Of the true Clove race there is
the old Crimson Clove, with its deliciously
scented blooms of rich crimson. Crimson pet is
in some respects an improvement on this, as the
flowers are brighter and of better quality, but
not so strongly perfumed. The pink or blush
Clove is worthy of note, as it combines the per¬
fume and large size of bloom of the old Clove
with a delicate pink tint. One of the latest to
bloom is Charmer, one of the best whites ; it
commences to bloom after the others are in per¬
fection, hence its extreme value. The above
selection embodies all sterling varieties, all that
have been thoroughly tested in every w r ay, and
no one need hesitate in adding them to their
collection. They are all sufficiently distinct,
and w hen planted, several dozen plants in a bed,
they produce a fine effect.

FLOWERS OF SUMMER.

Amongst biennial plants Eryngium giganteum
is one of the most distinct and handsome now in
flow r er. Dahlia glabrata, which sows itself here
(as does the Eryngium), is also very pretty,
though more apt to smother dwarfer plants if
perchance it gains a footing too near them.
Another good nardy plant, which requires room
to spread itself, is Coronilla varia, a most pro¬
fuse bloomer, having clusters of pale lilac or
white flowers. Sweet Williams of a good dark
strain are now gay in the sunshine, but for rich
dark velvety colour none can equal the old dw T arf
kind with double flowers, sometimes called
Ware’s Double Crimson. Planted in bold
masses or in beds it is most effective. This year,
for the first time, we have flowered the true
Opium Poppy in our garden. It far surpasses
the common small-fruited variety both in stature
and size of flower, the fruits being quite as large
as those usually seen in chemists^ and herba¬
lists’ shops, and really quite as useful if needs
be. I obtained it by simply buying a big fruit
from a chemist’s shop, where I chanced to ace
some fine specimens lying in the window, and,
whether in flower or fruit, find it far more
ornamental than any of its numerous garden
varieties.

Gladiolus The Bride has been in flower since
the beginning of June, and is yet yielding a
few spikes for cutting here and there by l.hc
walls. Few other hardy flowers surpass it for
effective use in large vases, and it is one of ;hc
best of all “good things” amongst sumner
blooming bulbs, whether for pot or open-air
culture. Rubus odoratus is now very shoi>ry,
both in blossom and leafage, to which last its
fragrance—what little it has—seems confin 3d.
Planted in good soil, with room to grow, il is
most ornamental when 8 feet high, with lea res
nearly a foot across, and covered with d sep
rosy blossoms borne in clusters, each be ng
as large as those of the common Dog Rc se.
The variegated, or Golden Rue, is wort! a
place, and is now very pretty here, grou] ed
w ith the common Agrostemma—the one w ith
woolly leaves and crimson flowers.

Eryngium amethystinum is just showing its
wonderful iridescent blue tint on its stems i nd
bracts, and makes a very telling effect w] en
seen alongside Aquilegia chrysantha, which is,
as I think, the best and most useful of all he
species. A. californica is also floriferous, »ut
not so pleasing in colour. The old sea: let
Lychnis chalcedonica, both double and sinj le,
are not to be despised, affording, as they lo,
rich glints of Geranium scarlet. Here we th lk
them most effective as seen towering up ami ng
white Campanulas and tall white Foxglov s ;
the old clumps, however, are not nearly so I ne
as are the two-year-old plants from see s.
Sambucus racemosa is now very pretty, ts
clusters of scarlet or coral-coloured ben cs
being, as I think, especially lovely, as s jn
nestling among the dark green foliage, backed iy
the blue sky. It forms a small tree, as large
indeed *s the common Elder, but is very much

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GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

231

rarer and a great deal more beautiful. Our first
blue Passion Flowers opened on the sunny walla
to-day, and Spiraea ariiefolia hangs its graceful
feathery plumes in m&Bses among the leaves.

I wonder why the Hungarian Bindweed (Con¬
volvulus sylvaticus) is not more generally planted
on the margins of woods or in outlying planta¬
tions near walks or drives. It is too coarse and
rampant for the dressed grounds unless sur¬
rounded by turf, but in open wood margins or
over dead fences it would be quite at home.
We have it here nearly 20 feet high already
growing up a dead Fir tree, and its great
trumpet-shaped white flowers are moat lovely
in the evenings. We have also C. incarn&tus,
less robust, perhaps, but it rambles over shrubs,
dead and living, in a very pretty way. The
safe place for it is the base of a shrub on the
lawn, where the mowing machine can check its
love for travel. How delicious is the Pine
fragrance, and how fresh and cool their shade
is during these hottest of summer days. Their
grateful shadow is so cool, their perfume so
balmy, that one longs for the Tuscan groves, or
for that wonderful forest at Ravenna where the

PLAN OF A GARDEN
The relation of the house and lawn to the more
interesting portions of a garden is a very impor¬
tant question for many who take a higher view
of the garden thau as a receptacle for every thing
that can be crowded into it. Few think as much
as they ought about the matter, judging by
what we see of complicated beds, vases, statuary,
small ponds, hedges, dead walls, old houses, and
frames, where there ought to be a little quiet
breadth or a pleasant bit of grass. In the very
smallest class of gardens such considerations are
out of place. In a cottage garden we do seek
breadth ; the effect is often very good there
without it. The “ nest ” of flowers is relieved in
other ways, and all are pleased at the unpretend¬
ing beauty of the spot. But in the many gardens
of a larger kind a little attention given to this
point would improve the effect greatly. The
delightful quality of repose, good in all cases, is
now more than ever essential, owing to the
noisy and confused conditions of our lives in
great cities. The spread of brickwork over vast
areas, near London and other large cities, which

whole space a few years ago. It is quite near,
and yet concealed from the richest and most
effective border of hardy flowers that we know
of near London. The reserve garden, too, a
place for hosts of fine thingB that deserve special
culture, and are worth cutting and having in
plenty, is well sheltered and concealed, and yet
may be entered as easily as one of the rooms.
The arrangements otherwise are those that suit
the site, soil, and the taste of the owner;
imitating these would not perhaps be right under
other circumstances, but good examples of places
where some of the essential principles in design
are not lost sight of, and yet every convenience
for good gardening secured, are worth seeing.
The plan is that of Munstead garden, near
God aiming.

Hardy flowers for cutting.— With the
greatly increased use of flowers for household
and personal decoration which in late years has
been brought about, there has been a marked
change in the kinds that find favour with the
mass of those who so use them. Time was when

Plan of g&rdeu at Munstead, showing arrangements of various departments in relation to lawn and house.

Pine tree is so gracefully at home beneath the
eternal blue.

Some Lilies are now most lovely—none finer
than L. candidum ; none more stately than L.
tes&aceum ; none more noble perhaps than L.
aura turn, or better still to my taste, L. Browni.
The American Swamp Lilies are now ooming on
apace, and seem to love the hot, sunny days
which follow cool rainy nights. But no sooner
does the middle of July come to us than we find
suggestions of the siren with the sere and
yellow leaf—Autumna, the friend of Ceres.
To-day I see a few early Chrysanthemum flowers,
uid the Hollyhocks and the Dahlias are opening
their first flowers—all signs, alas ! but too sug-
;-stive of the harvest moon and those chilly
ughts of white mist. But now all is bright and
unny, the Roses are in bloom, Poppies flutter
owl sparkle in the warm July breeze, and the
tees are rich in deepest verdure. The garden
» full of warmth, and light, and fragrance, and
J*t the lover of hardy blossoms must needs re¬
member the cool, fresh spring days, when the
Usckbird sang in the Hawthorn, or even earlier,
when “ Daffodillies filled their cups with tears,"
and the Anemones laughed in the morning

sunshine.

Digitized by

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were once among our prettiest districts, and full
of trees and fair gardens, makes it almost the
duty of those who have a garden to see that it
at least is not a waste of confusion or a mere
moss of incoherent units. The garden shown by
the annexed plan is free and quiet near the house,
for little work need be done there, and that takes
very little time. The flowers are not spread out
before the windows till we get tired of them
there, but bits of the colour of the various
gardens may be seen from some of the windows,
and all are within a minute's walk. Pansy,
Pink, Rose, rock flowers, Primroses, Auriculas,
flowering bushes and Ferns, all have their allotted
nooks and plots where they get what shade, sun,
water, or soil can be spared them, and where the
most radical preparations may be made for their
reception and health without disturbing the

? [uiet desired near the house itself. The lawn is
ree from any but the most permanent kind
of gardening—Scotch Firs ana other “ hardy
plants," that fear no changes. On the left the
prrgola (Italian for trellis-covered way) is for
American Vines and the more vigorous creeping
Roses, and it forms a screen. The alpine garden
is one without “ rock work " cropping naturally
out of the heathy ground, which covered the

simple beauty in colour and form was much less
appreciated than rarity and cost. The costly
productions of the forcing house were often
alone deemed worthy of a place in a lady’s
bouquet or to decorate the table. Gardenias
at Christmas were held in estimation propor¬
tionate with the number of shillings or half-
crowns each which they coBt. The flowers of
scarce Orchids wefe in like manner prized in
accordance with their rarity, whilst hardy
flowers, with the exception of such old favourites
as Roses, Violets, and Carnations, met with
little or no attention. All this is now, however,
changed ; outdoor flowers, provided they
possess elegance in form, with decided colours,
are quite as much in demand as the greatest
rarities of hothouse growth. Primroses,
Daffodils, Paeonies, Pinks, Cornflowers, Del¬
phiniums, Campanulas, Anemones, Aquilogias,
Asters, Dielytras, Carnations, Hellebores, Iris,
Myosotis, Spiraeas, Violas, Pansies, Gladioli,
Lilies, and others of a similar description, are
largely employed in the various arrangements in
which flowers are used. I am now speaking of
the well-to-do, who can afford to indulge in high-
priced rarities if so disposed. It is a healthy
sign, and tr it should barto see'.JKe beauty of

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

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232

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 26, 1884.

common flowers appreciated as it deserves, for
no one will deny that among our hardy herba¬
ceous plants there are numbers that vie in that
respect with the choicest productions of tropical
countries. To those who have not seen the
effect produced by some of our commoner hardy
flowers, when used for the decoration of the
dinner table, I should advise a trial, confining
it to two or three kinds of Narcissi alone, such
for instance as the old N. poeticus, with one of
the large pale yellow kinds and a large deep
yellow, with a limited quantity of scarlet
Anemone to give the requisite warmth of colour
in the arrangement, keeping each of the above
by themselves ; or another in which Columbines
in two or three distinct colours and Spirseas
japonica alone are used ; or the white Campanula

S srsicifolia, single and double, with pink or red
ianthus and a little Cornflower ; or white and
red Roses, with plenty of their own foliage and
Maiden-hair Fern, which in each of the above
arrangements I have seen used without stint,
along with fronds of Nephrolepis exaltata, orOat
Grass, to relieve the surface of the flowers.
Having seen tables where the above common
flowers were alone used, I can speak for the
beautiful effect which they had—an effect quite
equal to that obtainable by means of flowers of
a more costly description, and immeasurably
before the indescribable combinations often seen
where a score or two of different kinds of
flowers are unmeaningly mixed together, the
presence of three-fourths of them being destruc¬
tive of artistic merit. It is doubtless true that
some who use flowers will always give the pre¬
ference to rarity, and such are willing to pay
for it. Gardenias in January have been sold at
seven shillings and sixpence each ; the flowers of
scarce Orchids at one time fetched propor¬
tionately high figures, but on an average these
and others of a like character do not now sell
for half that money. There are, however, ten
times the quantity of flowers used now that
there was then. The reason for their being
cheap is, I think, clearly traceable to the use of
hardy kinds that, independent of their intrinsic
beauty, have the advantage of being within the
reach of many who either would not or could
not afford to indulge in costly things of so
perishable a character as flowers.—T. B.

Propagating Bedding Pelargoniums.
—Gardeners know that Pelargoniums belonging
to this section strike root better in the open
ground than in any other way, but it may be
useful to amateurs to be informed that if cut¬
tings can be obtained and inserted in the open
ground at any time between this and the middle
of August, they will secure better results than
they would do by the most painstaking manage¬
ment under glass. This applies particularly to
the tricolour, bronze, and white variegated
section. In dealing with new varieties of either
of these, when it is desirable to increase the
stock as fast as cuttings can be had, we either
use the stock plants for bedding, or plant them
in a rich piece of land in the reserve ground,
and as fast as we can obtain cuttings we take
them off and insert them between the old
plants; in this way we get quite a strong
addition to their numbers by the time they
require to be taken up for the winter, and, as
will be seen, at a minimum amount of trouble.

The general stock we do not touch until the
middle of August, and then we take all the
cuttings we can without disfiguring the beds.
These we put in a south border about 4 inches
apart, making the soil somewhat sandy to
encourage the formation of roots. If the
weather should be very bright, we put some
temporary lights over them and shade them for
a few days, but in dull, showery weather they
do not require that attention. Some care is,
however, needed to see that they do not suffer
from want of water, as the soil must be kept
pretty uniformly moist. Under this treatment
we can make sure of a greater percentage of
rooted plants than we can if we attempt to
root them in the dry, heated air of a house or
pit. In dealing with the bronze section, we
plant the cuttings under a south wall, with a
light over them even later than the middle of
August, and by keeping the soil rather dry they
seem to get hardened up, and will be found to
have made quite a number of roots by the end
of October. We then put them singly in small
pots and place them on a shelf in a warm houBe,
where they remain^fqr a few weeks. We

cannj>|;, however,

uri..fcy* a few weeks,
c^al ll e^ljoh* of

the

stock of the older sorts of white variegated
kinds in the same way, on account of the
number of plants required. These w r e plant in
boxes in the last week in August, and afford
them the protection of a pit or frame, giving
them some shading for the first fortnight
during bright sunshine. We prepare the boxes
by first putting a layer of the coarse siftings of
the soil in the bottom, an inch in thickness ; the
remaining space is then filled up with a mix¬
ture of leaf-soil, loam, and sand. This is made
rather firm, and the cuttings are inserted as
fast as they can be got.—C. C.

Chrysanthemum segetum.— If the rage
for single flowers continues we shall soon have
to hunt up and cultivate more weeds; however,

I am not going to disparage this last comer,
for it is very beautiful, grows anyhow, and
flowers abundantly. It got too large for the
position assigned it, so we have pegged it
down, and it is now branching out in all direc¬
tions. For large borders that have to be filled
quickly with few plants this should be one of
the kinds used. It would make a grand plant
for undergrowth to Ricinus Gibsoni, its deep
yellow flowers contrasting splendidly with the
deep brown foliage of the Ricinus.—W.

Clematises and other climbers.—
There is no family of plants I have yet tried so
well adapted as the Clematises for mixing with
other climbers. We have at present Clematis
lanuginosa, with its enormous mauve-coloured
flowers running all over a large Wistaria—the
great flowers peeping out of masses of yellowish
green foliage is very pretty; then there is
Clematis Jackmani running over arches with
Hops, its masses of rich purple just opening
looking well among the drooping branchlets of
the graceful n©p plant. Under glass it has run
on the roof of a large conservatory and mingled
with Cobsea scandens variegata, forming a very
pretty mixture ; and on terrace walls it takes
up its quarters among the branches of China or
other free-flowering Roses. The mode of train¬
ing we adopt is to cut them in closely to the
main branches at the winter pruning, just before
they start into growth (which is soon after
Christmas), and spread out the shoots left,
securely tying them to the wall or to the main
branches of the climbers it is desired to cover,
and in spring, when growth is very rapid, look
over the long shoots and fasten them evenly
and firmly in position, and then leave them to
grow and flower in their own way, selecting
varieties that make a long succession of flowers,
and of various shades of colour. The varieties
now in cultivation are almost innumerable.—J.

New Zealand Flax (Phormium tenax).—
This plant is perfectly hardy in Hampshire,
and so well does it stand that I doubt not it
would prove quite hardy in the north of
England. We have several plants that have
stood out without any protection for several
years. The foliage of all was slightly damaged
by the severe frosts of 1880-81, but the roots
were not a bit hurt. We have three varieties,
namely, Phormium tenax, P. tenax variegata,
and tenax Colensoi, and each kind is as
hardy as the other. None of them have ever
flowered, which is somewhat of a mystery,
seeing that they grow away so luxuriantly.
They are voracious feeders, and require great
depth of soil, and the more sheltered the
position the finer the foliage.—W.

Day Lily (Alstrmmeria aurea).—This is,
perhaps, the most robust of all the species,
attaining a height of 4 feet or 5 feet, and bear¬
ing great broad heads of rich orange blossoms,
each mass well-nigh a foot across. A friend
tells me it grows rampant in one particular spot
in his garden, and, as often happens, not quite
in the place he would like it to be. He tells
me it is most wayward. Twice he has dug it
out of its favourite corner to transplant else¬
where, and each time, while failing to grow
where he desires to have it, it has come up in
its old place as luxuriantly as ever. The fact is,
if once this plant gets well established near a
sunny wall it is not easily eradicated. Its thick
roots run through clumps of other bulbs, through
the roots of Roses, and stitch themselves in and
out of the Box edgings in the most persistent
way. It seems most sociable, and being most
lovely when in blossom, perchance it obtains
more tolerance than would fall to the lot of a

{ flainer-looking member of its family. For
arge vases its great heads of vivid orange

blossoms are most effective, and, as above
indicated, it is readily grown.

I Mulching v. watering. —As gardeners
we are always at school; some are apt scholars
and others arc “ noodles,” and in respect of the
subject in hand I must own that for a long time
1 belonged to this last category, for I could not,
or else would not, believe that mulching was
superior to watering, but in spite of myself the
lesson at last came home to me. For many
years 1 have both practised and preached about
the importance of mulching for shrubs, kitchen
garden crops, Vines, and other fruit trees,
Forgetting that W’hat was profitable for free
feeders would, in a small way, be equally bene¬
ficial to plants of an opposite nature—a lesson
simple enough to learn, one thinks, after it has
been learnt. For several years past sundry
small plants in the flower garden failed to grow
as swiftly as we wished; notably so Alternan-
theras, Coleus, and other tender kinds, and also
some hardy sorts, Sedum acre elegans being
among the number ; and, believing them to be
dry, frequent waterings were had recourse to,
but with indifferent results. Last year as soon
as planted some of the before-named plants were
mulched with Cocoa fibre, and seldom watered,
and they did remarkably well. This year all
have had this mulching, and have not been
watered more than half-a-dozen times (the season
hasbeen dry), and yet the growth is perfect.
The lesson has been a hard one, but the rewards
of satisfactory growth and lessened toil are
excellent set-offs.

Bedding Violas.— The notion that these
will not do well in the south is a mistaken one ;
of course, certain kinds do better than others.
The cornuta section always does well; Blue
Bell never fails, and this last has now got a
formidable rival in True Blue ; it does not grow’
so compactly, but with a little additional
pegging it is more effective than Blue Bell.
Being both a better shaped flower and a deeper
self-blue, it is likely to become a favourite. Mrs.
Gray, a creamy white variety, is as floriferous as
it is possible for any plant to be, and has every
other quality to insure its becoming a favourite.
We have it as an undergrowth for pink Pelar¬
goniums and dark Fuchsias, and the mixture is
most pleasing.

White Pink Mrs. Sinkins.— This proves
to be a very valuable plant, especially for those
who are called upon to furnish white flow’ers.
We have lately used it for making wreaths and
for furnishing sweet-smelling flow’ers for our
flower missions. I look upon it, indeed, as an
indispensable subject where there are large
demands for cut flow'ers. It is not only very
fragrant, but the plants become one solid mass
of blossom, and they continue to flower more or
less all the summer. A remarkable property
belonging to it is that it rarely produces more
than tw’o buds on a stem, and generally only
one ; it may, therefore, be cut without destroy¬
ing any young flower-buds. This is not the
general character of Pinks, for they form so
many flower-buds on the stems that the first
flower which is open cannot be cut with a suffi¬
cient length of stem without cutting off two
or three young flower-buds, w’hich one hardly
cares to do. The plant, moreover, is a good
grower and quite hardy, and as early in coming
into flower as the single white Pink, so well
known for its early-flowering property.—C. C.

Double Rockets. — Having noticed in
Gardenino a small paragraph in praise of the
Double White Scotch Rocket, I take the liberty
of sending you a sample of a row of fifty which
I have in full bloom at the present moment.
It is truly a delightful flower, has been in bloom
for the past fortnight—and I doubt not may
continue another week—and the perfume it
yields of an evening just now’ is delightful. The
blooms are soiled by rain, but they wdll give a
good idea of what a splendid sight the row
makes.— John S. Calder. —[From the speci¬
men sent we should say a row’ of fifty plants
would be very striking. Every one should grow’
the Scotch Rocket.—E d.]

White Lilies. —One of the fairest of all the
flowers to be found growing to-day in cottage
gardens is the old white Lily (L. candidum), or
Madonna Lily, with its sweetly-scented pure
white flowers. It is the emblem of rosy summer
time in all itsJfulness, and, as I think, particu¬
larly lovely in the evenings, when its spires of
great white bells shine so brightly from a dark

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

July 26, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

233

background of Privet or of Holly. In July a
garden of white Lilies and old - fashioned
Cabbage and Moss Roses must needs be a plea¬
sant place, even if more modern flowers be
absent; but there are hosts of other old-
fashioned flowers that seem to be naturally
** maids in waiting ” on this our snow-white
summer queen. Of such are Pinks of all kinds,
single as well as double, Carnations, Sweet
Williams, and Bellflowers of all kinds. Before
me, as I write, is a stout stem of the golden-
rayed Japan Lily (L. auratum), with many
blossoms ; it is most gorgeous, and its perfume
overpoweringly rich and satisfying, but after
all I believe no one Lily can ever be so perfect
and pleasing as is that of the Madonna.

A good plant for a sunny bank.— Any¬
one having a dry, sunny bank of poor soil, on
which the majority of plants will not flourish,
will find in the Coronilla varia a most accom¬
modating subject—one that will never fail to
spread and firmly establish itself in such a situa¬
tion when once it gets a foothold. Neverthe¬
less it is not a rubbishy plant, but really a
pretty one when in flower, and that is nearly
throughout the summer and autumn months.
Though straggling in growth at first, it will
become in time compact, and will carry a pro¬
fusion of clusters of mauve-pink flowers. Even
little bits will grow into good-sized plants in the
coarse of a season.

11699.—Wallflowers and other hardy
plants in pots. —Such things as Wallflowers,
Sweet Williams, Pansies, Columbines, Prim¬
roses, are best grown out in the open ground
for a season, until they come to a flowering size,
potting them in the autumn, and keeping them
out in a cold frame or greenhouse through the
winter, or plunging the pots at the foot of a
north wall. Wallflowers, Pansies, Primroses,
and other spring blooming things may be kept
under cover until they flower ; but such things
as Columbines, Sweet Williams, and other
summer flowering plants must be brought into
the open air by April, or they will become drawn
and enfeebled. They may be kept in pots several
years in succession if well watered and fed with
liquid manure. Campanulas, such as garganica,
carpatica, turbinata, Van Houttei, and pusilla
are excellent for pot culture, they but seldom
require repotting, and have a verv nice appear¬
ance when in bloom. Primroses and Polyanthuses
when done blooming should be put in a rather
ihady place, likewise Alpine Auriculas, which
are charming for pot culture. Seed of these
plants may be sown in April in the open ground,
except the three latter, which are best sown in
pots in a frame. When the young plants have
shown a few’ leaves, prick them out some 6in.
apart in good soil, in a situation where they get
plenty of sun and air. If they are well cared
for they will mostly come to blooming size the
fast year, except the Primroses and Auriculas,
which need a second year’s growdh to make
strong flowering plants of them.—J. C. B.

llTio.- Carnations not blooming.— Probably the
p’antB are too small. Thoy have not yet gathered sufficient
•‘trfenjcth to bloom. All that you can do is to encourage
them to make good growth by watering them well in dry
weather, stirring the soil around them from time to time.
They should be in a sunny place, otherwise they will not
bloom well.—J. C. B.

Double crimson Sweet William.— This is one
of those flow ers that do not lose much in beauty by being
made double. It is a beautiful plant, with deep maroon-
crimson rosetted blossoms in large dense heads, which lost
tnnch longer than thoso of the single sorts.

Leather-coated Grubs. — The grubs

I known by the name of leather jackets are hatched
from eggs laid by the daddy-longlegs or
J.rane fly. They are exceedingly destructive to
Iriny plants, and are very difficult to destroy,
any insecticide which would influence them
blow the surface would kill the plants,
lumbers may be killed by rolling the ground
: : night. Long trenches 6 inches wide and 0
die 3 deep, with upright sides, have been found
cry useful ; the grubs fall in whilst roaming
wmt at night, and cannot escape. They should
* collected in the morning. Pieces of Potatoes,
imips, &c., buried in the ground, with a
i-jrer stuck into each, form good traps ; they
laild be examined every morning. Dressing
with nitrate of soda, gaslime, soot, ana
i^flo has been found useful. When a plant is
kicked, open the ground round the roots and
nii out the grubs ; they prefer damp, undrained
Lad; moles and many hifda are very '■ 1 '

tsOO

them. —S. Bigitized by

undrained

HR?

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 220 .)

The Strawberry in the open air.

The preparation of the ground for this crop is a
very important matter. It should be deeply
worked, and be in fair condition as regards
manure, though it is not a good plan to dig in
long stable manure just previous to planting, for
this prevents the land from consolidating suffi¬
ciently for the roots to obtain that grasp of it
which is essential for the proper development of
broad short-stalked foliage and plump mature
buds or crowns. It is a good plan to trench up
a piece of land in winter of sufficient extent for
the new Strawberry bed, manuring it according
to its condition. In February plant it w’ith
early Potatoes, and when the Potatoes are lifted
in July have the Straw’berrv plants ready in
small pots for turning out. This system makes
the most of the land. The Strawberries which
have been forced in pots for early fruit will do
admirably, as they invariably bear heavy crops
the first year after planting. Before planting,
the ground may have, if necessary, a dressing of
soot or some artificial manure. I am assuming
the dressing of yard manure which was given in
winter, will still, to a great extent, remain in
the land, and will be just in fit condition for the
roots of the Strawberry plants to utilise. In
the preparation of the land for Strawberries its
general character must be kept in view. If very
light a dressing of clay or heavy loam will be of
great benefit. It should be placed on the sur¬
face, and lightly forked. The land for Straw¬
berries should be in firm, compact condition;
the solid firmness of unmoved or unworked
land will not do. If the Straw’berries, as I have
suggested, follow immediately in the wake of
the early Potatoes, the surface soil will be in a
nice friable, well-pulverised condition. It is best
to plant when the land is dry on the surface, as
then the soil can be pressed firmly around the
roots of the plants without making the soil hard
or pasty.

Obtaining the Plants.

I have already referred to the good work
which plants that have been forced are capable
of doing, planted out in July. In the majority
of instances such plants under good manage¬
ment are not much exhausted by the forcing,
and when allowed plenty of space (not less than
2 feet apart) will yield heavy crops. But good
crops of Strawberries may be obtained the first
year from young plants, if pains are taken with
them. They should be layered into small pots
as early as the runners can be obtained ; in fact,
treat them in the same way as we do the plants
raised for forcing, and which generally gives
such excellent results. It is only a question of
obtaining the plants early and planting early.
Neither is it necessary always to lay them in pots.
I have raised good plants by laying down little
mounds of rich soil, and pegging the runners on
the heaps. By the latter plan the plants, when
sufficiently rooted, are taken straight to the bed
and planted, pressing the soil about them firmly,
and giving a good watering, which, if the
weather is dry, must bo repeated till the plants
are established. The best time to plant is in
July ; and the earlier good plants can be ob¬
tained and set out the better, if we want to
gather a good crop for the following year. In
late districts, where the July planting cannot
be carried out, the plants should be laid
in 6 inches apart in a nursery bed till spring
—say as early in March as the season will
permit the land to be got into condition. The
plants may then be lifted with balls from the
nursery bed, and planted in rows 2£ feet
apart, and one foot from plant to plant
in the rows. Every alternate plant in the
rows will be cut up after the first crop
has been gathered. In the meantime, the first
year—as soon as the Strawberries are disposed
in their places—two rows of Onions should be
sown between each two rows of Strawberries.
The Onions will do no harm to the Stawberries,
as they do not shade injuriously ; and the
second year the Strawberries will require all the
land. The Onions are a catch crop, to pay for
labour and rent, till the Strawberries come into
bearing. To prevent propagation from any but
fertile plants, all those which are unfruitful
should be pulled up as soon as their character is
noticed, and an eye should be kept upon the
bed for the purpose of detecting barren plants ;

as the unwary may, in fact do, propagate from
inferior plants, being tempted by the deceptive
strength of the runners which spring therefrom.
By a judicious selection of kinds, aided by a
careful selection of aspects suitable for different
varieties, the Strawberry season may be much
slonged, and by planting such kinds as
Garibaldi and Viscomtesse de Thury from th
forcing pit a good crop in autumn may be
gathered. Such early kinds as Black Prince
and Viscomtesse (above named) should be
planted on a warm south border to come in
early, and the Elton Pine should be planted in
a partially shaded border under a west wall or
fence for the late crop, and then the Alpines
will carry on the season till October.

Duration of the Beds.

This is mainly a question of local necessity
and circumstance. So long as Strawberries will
go on bearing well, except it may be for the
purpose of rotation, there is but little induce¬
ment to remove them. At the same time
it must be admitted that, even in those
favourable situations where the Strawberry
is a long time in wearing out, young
strong plants generally bear the finest fruit;
and on all soils there is a limit to profit¬
able duration. Then, again, some kinds
will continue profitable without change
longer than others, but as soon as any planta¬
tion shows signs of wearing out— i.e., when the
crowns grow weakly and the fruit small, the
sooner they are destroyed the better. On really
good Strawberry land (a deep rich adhesive
loam), if the plants are allowed plenty of space
—say a square yard for each plant—I have
known Strawberries go on bearing heavy crops
for seven years, but usually from three to four
is as long as they should remain on the same
land. And I have known instances where
annual planting seemed the perfection of culture.
In this latter case the Strawberries were worked
in connection with the early Potatoes, and were
followed immediately by late Broccoli, the latter
crop being planted without digging. As a rule
light land, unless it can be improved by a
dressing of clay, will not carry Strawberries
more than three years. It is more profitable to
plant them in lines or rows 2£ or 3 feet apart
than to plant in beds. If the necessary atten¬
tion be given to the young plants thick planting
will be found a mistake. Some people plant
thickly at first, because the plants are weakly,
but it is better to take more pains with the
plants, and trust to half the number.

Removal of the Runners.

As soon as the required plumber of plants are
secured all runners should be cut off, as they
tend to exhaust the crowns. If young plants
are not required the runners should be cut off
before they attach themselves to the ground.
Some cultivators plant a bed specially for their
production, removing the trusses of flowers;
and where this can be done all the runners
should be removed from the beds in bearing.
Though it is not much practised, propagation
may be carried on by division of tne crown of
the plants, planting only the strongest of them.
In this case no runners are required, and they
may be cut away as they appear. When Straw¬
berries are propagated by division, the planta¬
tion must not continue longer than three years
in one place.

Top-dressing and Watering.

Being to a large extent a surface rooting plant,
top-dressing plays an important part in its
culture, or should do. Have we a bed or
quarter of exhausted Strawberries, and it is not
convenient to replant, or if we can make a new
bed and still wish to retain the old one another
year, as soon as the fruit is all gathered dress
off all runners and dead leaves, and place a
layer of old cow-dung, 3 inches thick, between
the rows, and leave it there without digging, or
forking, or any other effort at cultivation, and
watch the result. In the spring, as soon as the
blossoms appear, mulch heavily with stable
litter; by the time the fruits are ripe the rains
will have washed the litter clean, and the
Strawberries may rest upon it without sustaining
any damage. Sometimes supports are used to
prop up tne fruit, and lift them into the sun¬
shine. It is an advantage where it can l>e done.
The largest clusters may be supported by short
forked Hazel pegs, in default of anything better.
As regards watering in a dry lime this adds im-

URBANA-CHAMPA1GN

234

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 26 , 1884 .

mensely to the weight and value of the crop.
I was in a garden a short time ago where the
Strawberries were all withering for want of
water, and the fruit did not attain half their
usual size because of the drought. Liquid
manure in any shape has great value. Where
slugs and snails are troublesome a. good
watering of lime-water in April will do
much to eradicate these troublesome pests.
If the weather is showery at that season the
lime will be as effective if dusted between the
rows and around the plants, and left for the
rains to wash in ; soot is also valuable. To sum
up the principles of Strawberry culture I should
define them briefly thus : Work the land deeply,
but allow time to settle and consolidate. Manure
liberally, but don’t let the roots come in contact
with fresh rank manure, let it be mellow. Select
the plants with care from known fertile plants
only, and as some old favourite kinds occasionally
show signs of wearing out, obtain fresh stock
from a good source sometimes. Give each plant
as much space as it can profitably occupy,
according to its kind, and this may vary from a
square yard to less than half, and allow it to
occupy that position just as long as it is profit¬
able, and no longer.

Insects, Diseases, &c.

If well cared for insects are not troublesome
to the Strawberry. The greatest pests on some
soils are the slugs aud snails, which should bo
met and conquered early in spring by dressings
of soot and lime, llats, mice, and birds, espe¬
cially blackbirds, are very destructive to the
ripe fruit, and of all these troubles I dislike the
mouse worst, because he does not eat what lie
gathers, as he is only seeking for the seeds
which grow on the outside of the berries. Rats
and mice may be trapped and poisoned, but a
good cat or two in the garden are most useful,
and where they have plenty of space to run
about at will, they don’t scratch up the plants
as they do in small town gardens. I have
several cats, and they have free access to every
building, and every part of the gardens. They
go in the houses, walk about the stages among
the plants, and never displace a pot or damage
a plant. To keep off birds, nets should be used,
and the blackbird dislikes the gun if it be in
the hands of a good shot. I have always found
that shooting a few at the beginning of the
fruit season makes them very shy for the
remainder of the season.

Raising Seedlings.

The plants should be grown in pots in the
frame or the greenhouse, and the crossing
effected by using the camel’s hair pencil. Only
the best kinds should be grown, and as soon as
the selected fruits are thoroughly ripe gather
them aud peel off the outside, which con¬
tains the seeds, cutting only a thin slice, and
lay the slices on a sheet of paper in the sun¬
shine. The pulp will soon ary up, and then
the seeds may be nibbed out and sown in pans
in a warm frame. The seeds will soon germinate,
when the plants should be pricked off, and
w T hen hardened should be planted out. They
will fruit the following year if justice is done
them, when the best can be selected for further
trial, and the others destroyed.

Varieties.

Sir J. Paxton, Sir Charles Napier, Marguerite,
James Veitch. The above are large-fruited
kinds, and heavy croppers on good land.
Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury: Well adapted
for planting in unfavourable situations, such as
light, porous soils. British Queen: An excellent
old variety. When well done the flavour cannot
well be eclipsed, but the plant is somewhat
tender. Keen’s Seedling : Another excellent old
sort, for main crop or forcing. President:
An excellent mid-season kind, and forces well.
Loxford Hall: Should be grown where Straw¬
berries have to be sent long distances,
because of its firmness as well as its
other good qualities. Elton Pine is valuable
for its colour and its lateness. The Alpine
Strawberry: We find this very useful, and
under good culture it bears long and heavily.
To bring out its full capabilities requires a deep,
rich, moist soil, and it should not be left too
long in one place. Heavy mulching with
manure between tlje -qows will beia great help

in a dry time,

in the -xjows will be* gi

v feet wre

l '^varieties

besides the red and white Alpines in cultiva¬
tion now, and they will probably increase in
number. Galande and Blanche de Orleans are

S ood varieties. Hautbois (Royal): This is a
istinct flavoured Strawberry not much growm
now, though it w T as once highly esteemed. It
requires a well drained deep loam to do it well.
If the soil is not deep it will be a good plan to
throw' it up into a ridge and plant on the ridge.

E. Hobday.

FRUIT.

Late Peach houses. —Should w*e have
dry w'eather one of the most important matters
in the management of late Peaches under glass
will be the liberal application of water to the
roots and foliage. With every leaf and branch
spread out and trained within 2 feet of the
glass a mere surface watering is of very little
use to inside borders at any time, and when the
heavy strain of a full crop of fruit is in force a
watering that does not reach the drainage is
misleading, and frequently induces the prema¬
ture ripening of the fruit before it has completed
the last swelling. To avoid this, let all inside
borders be heavily mulched and watered until
the latter finds its w T ay into the drains. Syringe
copiously every fine morning and again about
four o’clock in the afternoon, W’hen the house
may be closed for tw r o hours to sw'ell the fruit.
Elevate all the Peaches that can be got up by
placing short pieces of lath under them and
across the wires of the trellis. Give night air,
much or little, according to the intended period
of ripening, and, if portable, draw the lights
quite off for a few hours on fine, settled days,
to infuse colour, and to give the fine flavour
which Peaches irrow'n in cold or warm houses
never attain. When elevating the fruit make a
point of shortening back every shoot that will
be taken out after the crop is gathered, for the
two fold purpose of increasing the size and
letting in light and air.

Summer - pruning: Currant trees.—

This, although a good practice if done judici¬
ously, is liable to do more harm than good if
carried to excess. I recently observed some
bushes pruned in as closely as they ordinarily
are at Christmas. The effect of thus cutting
off nearly all the new growth is anything but
beneficial to the well-being of the bush. I would
strongly recommend the stopping the shoots
early on trees trained to walls, as, if left too
long, the low’er leaves drop off, and without
good foliage the fruit never keeps well ; but on
open bushes merely stopping the strongest
leading shoots is all that is necessary, and this
only when the growth is luxuriant.—G.

Planting Strawberries.— What a waste
of time it is to put out weakly Strawberry
plants when forming new plantations. Heavy
crops are gathered from young plants of the
first season under glass, and the same thing
w’ould happen in the open air if the same atten¬
tion was given the plants in their early stages.
All success is based upon early preparatory
work. The earlier Strawberries are planted,
and the stronger the plants the better, in all
probability, will be the result. But firmness of
root-run is closely linked in with successful
Strawberry culture ; and this firmness should
not be the close-grained hardness of unworked
land, but should be the settling down of deeply-
stirred staple of some months previous. Very

5 ood results have been obtained as follows :—
’he ground has been w ell manured and deeply
trenched in winter, planted with Early Prolific
Potatoes in February or March, and followed
by Strawberries in July of the same year.—H.

11723.— Neglected Grape vines.— If the
vine has no attention at all this season in the
matter of stopping, &c., it will, of course, have
made a quantity of useless wood ; but it will not
do to cut all this away now', as a too severe check
to the plant w'ould thereby be occasioned. All
that can be done is to cut back the bearing
shoots to within about three eyes of the bunch,
aud if the branches are much crowded the
weakly non-bearing ones should be quite cut
away, so as to let in as much air as possible. Side
shoots springing from the growing wood should
be pinched off, continuing through the summer,
and the berries should be properly thinned out.
When the foliage drops in late autumn they
must be pruned, and then the best way will be

to cut back each branch to within two eyes of
the main stem. The following year stop each
bearing shoot one leaf beyond the bunch, and
thin out all weakly and faulty wood.—J. C. B.

VEGETABLES.

Old Cabbage beds.— In some gardens
the old Cabbage stems are allowed to remain for
the sake of the second crop of little hearts they
produce in autumn. When this plan is adopted
the soil among them should now be well
scarified, and if a top-dressing of manure of so me
kind can be given, the produce will be equal to
early spring Cabbages in flavour and tenderness.
Where no attention is given to them they are
tough and leathery, unless the land be deep and
rich.—F.

Fertilising Cucumbers.— “ F. Ashberry”
says that he has grown Cucumbers four years,
and that his experience is that he lias never
been able to get them to set without fertilising
them. Now I can bear out the statement of
“S.” in Gardening, June 7, p. 154, that it is
not necessary to impregnate Cucumbers to set
them. I have grown them several years, but
will only give my experience for this year—
viz., that 1 have never let a male flower open.

1 go over the plants every day, and rub them
off as fast as they appear ; aud I think myself
that I have had great success. I put in the
seed on the 9th of January, and I began cutting
fruit in Easter week. Since then I have cut
nearly 200 Cucumbers, in size varying from
12 inches to 20 inches, aud of most excellent
flavour ; and I am hoping to cut as many more
yet. The sorts I have grown are Carter’s No. 1,
Myton Hall, and Tender and True. I have cut
one of Tender and True 19 inches long, and

2 lb. 3 oz. in weight, so I think artificial fertili¬
sation has nothing to do with the fruit getting
as regards Cucumbers.— Young Bolsover.

Early vegetables. —In comparison with
“J. C.’s” (Brynkinalt) letter as regards early
Peas, I wish to say a word in favour of Ameri¬
can Wonder. I sowed the first lot of this dwarf
variety on 7th February, and gathered the first
dish from a very heavy crop on 17th June. The
second lot I sowed on 15th March, with Clay’s
Fertiliser in the drills, and gathered on 25th
June, or a week after the first sowing, which
were sown five weeks before. I believe, how¬
ever, I should have gathered from the first
sowing fully a fortnight sooner if it had not
been For the dry weather, as my garden lies
high aud on the slope, so that if I wish to water

i ’t is next to an impossibility. Queen of the
Parlies Potato I planted on the 7th February ;
the tubers were backward, and had not sprouted
at all; from these I began digging the most
delicious white floury Potatoes on 31st May.
Early Nantes Carrot, sown on the 7th of
February likewise, were quite ready on 16th
June. Early Erfurt Cauliflower, sown in a pan
indoors, and put in a bedroom window facing
east, planted out on 5th May, without pro¬
tection, were cut from 20th June. It would be
interesting to know if any of your reader
amateurs, who attend to their own gardens,
have had better or as good results. My garden
is in Devonshire.— Scot Free.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

Double Deutzia (D. crenata flore-
pleno). —This beautiful shrub is invaluable
for furnishing cut flowers late in the season,
when the majority of flowering shrubs are
nearly over, and by planting a lew in w T arm,
sunny aspects, and a few in the coolest anal
shadiest spots at oommand, a lengthened season
of flowers may be enjoyed. The Deutzias ar e
not nearly so much employed as decorative
shrubs as they deserve to be, for, beautiful as
they are as pot plants, I question if they are not
far more beautiful when seen in clumps or single
specimens on the Grass. Deutzia crenata has
not got the pearly whiteness of Deutzia gracilis,
but, flowering much later, it is even more
valuable as a cut flower than that highly -
esteemed variety, and those who may not yet
have tried it out of doors, I would advise to
lose no time in getting both the single and
double varieties.—L.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jut* 26, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

285

THE ZENOBIAS.

E genus Zenobia contains but a single species,
native of the Southern United States,
haps its nearest ally is Andromeda Mariana,
1 Stagger Bush, a plant of considerable
Mty, which, like the subject of this notice, is
k>o seldom seen in gardens. A large number
°*s introduced shrubs from the United States,
Fnting great variation in habit, size, in the
00 of the flowers, and in the time of bloom-

read by him before the Dundee Horti¬
cultural Association, seem thoroughly to
the point: “ It has often struck me as strange

in tnese days that, among other things, the
taste for hardy exotic hard-wooded plants (1
do not now allude to Conifers, but more especi¬
ally to flowering shrubs and tine-foliaged ever¬
greens) should be so little cultivated. We often
see this in many of our public parks and private
domains. There may be masses of bedding
plants, good collections of herbaceous and rock

The Zenobia in its native haunts affects
boggy spots, but under cultivation in this
country it does well in any fairly cool place. If
planted in peat and leaf-mould it grows
vigorously, and soon makes a dense bush 3 feet
or 4 feet in height, by as much through.
Where, however, peat cannot be readily pro¬
cured, a plentiful supply of decayed leaves,
mixed with loam, does very well. In all pro¬
bability it is hardy in most places in Britain ;
it thrives well in many places in Scotland. It

A 1IARDY FLOWERING bHKUB (ZENOBIA 1‘ULVERULENTA).

K. could be readily procured by planters, and
‘arming effects produced with but little
sable. In far too many garden!, however,
vcely anything else is to be setn but the
**rel. Box, Aucuba, and such like, and in
*y even peaty or boggy districts, where the
fcsrnl conditions obtain under whfch plants
aa the Zenobia thrive best, the choice of
owner seems to be restricted to Rhododen-
or Azaleas. Apropos of such wilful
ae t*c t or carelessness, or whatever it
be called, the concluding remarks
O' Colonel M. H. Drummond-Hfe, i

plants, and ferneries, together with Pinetums,
and perhaps beds of Rhododendrons and Azaleas;
but what is the shrubbery like? We turn
down a side walk, and there we find a few
common Laurels, Lilacs, Snowberries, and other
common plants, with Hollies stuck about, and
perhaps some Box trees, an Aucuba, or a common
Rhododendron or two, and this merely to hide
the stable or some other objectional object."
Yet a number of plants not less useful and
ornamental than any of these would succeed
perfectly well under the same conditions if
allowed a chance of doing so.

seeds freely in many localities, and young plants
are as easily raised as are Rhododendrons ;
where, however, it is desired to propagate any
particular form, it is desirable to nave recourse
to layering, seedlings varying excessively in
habit and foliage, characters, and also in size of
flower, Ac. The beautifully-scented white Lily-
of-the-Valley-like flowers are produced in
clusters or racemes from axillary buds on the
wood of the preceding year.

In Zenobia nitida the foliage is a light bright
green colour on both surfaces ; in other respects
ft is like the form here figured. If treated as a

U R BA N A - L HA MPATQfJ

236

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jut* 26, 1884.

pot plant, and given the shelter of a pool con¬
servatory during the winter months, it retains
its leaves and flowers earlier than plants not
accorded such protection.

Z. pulverulenta. —A glance at the accom¬
panying woodcut, which faithfully represents
some flowering sprays of this beautiful shrub,
will be sufficient to prove it one of the most
lovely of all garden plants cultivated in the open
air in Britain. When treated as a pot plant,
and kept clear of hard frosts, the silvery leaves
remain on the bush until new ones are developed.
Even without the snowy white flower-bells this
variety is almost worth growing for the sake of
its pretty frosted foliage.

INDOOR PLANTS.

PERPETUAL-FLOWERING CARNATIONS.
Some of the recently introduced varieties of
these are most lovely, and quite invaluable in a
cut state when flowers are very scarce indeed.
The single species and varieties of Dianthus are
very beautiful. We grow them in our rock
gardens ; all the florists are in raptures with
them. A fortnight ago they were the most
beautiful objects in the rock garden. But they
are useless as regards the production of cut
flowers ; if one tries to bloom them in winter
they will have none of it. They are Nature’s
wildlings, and do not brook the restraint of
flower-pots and glasshouses. Here it is that the
value of the florist’s work is seen and appre¬
ciated. It has been stated that florists are
narrow-minded—that they throw away the best
flowers and retain the worst. I say that is not
so. Florists are the reverse of narrow-minded ;
they do not throw away the best and retain the
worst. They give away their rejected seedlings,
or sell them at a cheap rate. Is it the florist’s
fault if those who purchase or those who have
received beautiful flowers as a gift do not take
sufficient care of them, but let them die from
want of attention? Those who criticise the
florist’s work ought to know something of that
work.

Having thus unburdened my mind a bit, I
can now go on to treat of the perpetual-flower¬
ing Carnation. The plants intended to flower
in winter should now oe of goodly proportions ;
they ought not to be showing flower-buds yet,
but if they are showing them they ought to be
pinched off, and the plants repotted into larger
pots. The sizes in which we used to bloom
them are 7-inch and 8-inch ones, strong plants
being put into 9-inch ones. Large specimens
may be grown on into 12-inch pots after they
are eighteen months old or more, but it is not
profitable to grow such plants, and they are not
nearly so handsome as small healthy specimens.
What they most require when making their
growth is plenty of fresh air and to be kept free
from insect pests. Greenfly is very trouble¬
some ; it cripples the growth and makes a sad
mess of the blooms, by forming a breeding
ground inside of the pods, whence they cannot
be dislodged easily without injuring the blooms.
The fly may, however, be killed by fumigating
or dipping the plants in soapy water before they
are too far advanced in growth. To produce
good blooms the potting soil ought to be rich
and porous and the pots well drained; if the
drainage should become clogged from any
cause, the plants very soon show it by their
sickly and stunted growth. Carnations are
like many other plants—when they once get
into bad health they do not speedily grow out
of it.

Plants for midwinter flowering have a
tendency to run to growth and to produce
nothing but leaves. This does not always arise
from using too rich soil. It is often the result
of keeping the plants too far from the glass, or
where they do not get sufficient fresh air. They
also require a warmer atmosphere in winter
than the temperature of an ordinary greenhouse,
but as there are many other subjects requiring
such treatment in winter, it is not necessary to
devote a whole house or compartment to them.
Bouvardias also require a little more heat, and
likewise Zonal Pelargoniums—say from 50degs.
to 55 degs. at night during the late autumn and
winter months.

Varieties. —White varieties are in greatest
request. The vartfty’hamed The Gueqn (Aber¬
crombie) has an oc(jasi|i(alJ& rii)4jJr[fl|^ke, which

rather adds to its attractions than otherwise.
Gloire de Nancy, a French variety, usually
termed White Malmaison, is a large and fine
white. The rose-coloured class has also re¬
ceived Borne promising additions in Mrs.
Llewellyn, Seraph, and Juliette, deep rose,
large and fine. Scarlet-coloured varieties are
represented by Firefly, a well-formed bright
scarlet, Huntsman, Nimrod, and Worthington
Smith, the last named a fine large flower with
broad smooth petals. There are also some really
good buff ground flowers, less or more marked
with scarlet, viz., Amazon, Coomassie, and
Gaiety. Mrs. George Hautrey is a fine, bright
yellow, and Andalusia is much esteemed by
some, but the flower is rather full, and the
fringed petals give it a rough appearance.
Rubens is rich crimson-maroon, and Whipper-
in has maroon and scarlet flakes. The whole of
the above may be added to the most select
collection with advantage. J.

CULTURE OF THE HERBACEOUS
CALCEOLARIA.

The first step in connection with the cultivation
of these plants is to secure a good strain, and,
there being so many who are in possession of
really first-class strains, this should not be diffi¬
cult. The seeds should be sown now*. Select a
deep seed-pan, as the soil in a shallow* pan dries
through more quickly than in a deep one, and
the less w r ater the seed requires the better. It
is so very small that it cannot be buried deeply,
and therefore frequent waterings are apt to dis¬
turb it too much. The pan must be moderately
well drained, and filled to within an inch of the
rim with fine rich soil. The surface soil should
be made more sandy, and should be run through
a fine-meshed sieve, for when the young plants
first begin to grow their roots are so small that
they cannot grapple with hard lumps. Before
sowing give the soil a good soaking of water.
The seed may then be sown, and just a dust of
moist soil sprinkled over it. A shady position
in a cool house, where the pan can stand upon a
bed of soil or coal ashes, is the best place for it,
and in order to keep the surface moist a square
of glass should be put over it, or a layer of Moss
wifi do as well as anything, and at the same
time reduce the quantity of water needed, but
whatever the pan may be covered with it must
be removed directly the young seedlings appear
above ground, and at this stage more light and
air wifi be necessary in order to give them
strength. As soon as they have made four
leaves they are large enough to prick off into
other pans, w’hich should be prepared in much
the same way as the seed-pan. In these the
plants should be put an inch apart every way,
and they should receive a gentle watering.
They must still have cool quarters, but an
ordinary cold pit or frame will answer if the
pans stand on a cool bottom, and are shaded
from bright sunshine. After being subjected to
this kind of treatment for a month they will be
large enough to be put into single pots.

Soil. —This must be of the most substantial
kind ; a good fibrous loam is a prime necessity.
It should not be fresh from the pasture, but
from a heap that has lain some time in prepara¬
tion. Three parts of such a loam and one part
rotten hotbea or cow manure, with a good
sprinkle of sand, will make an excellent com¬
post. For the first potting these ingredients
must be sifted, but in subsequent shifts the
loam should be made sufficiently fine by beating
it to pieces. It must not be divested of its
fibry matter, for it is important to have an
open soil in which the roots can w r ork freely.
From the seed-pan let them be transferred to
3-inch pots; this is best done as soon as the
leaves meet each other in the pan. From 3-inch
pots w'e usually shift into a 6-inch size, and
those required to make large specimens are
transferred into 8-inch pots when they have
filled the others with roots. A few plants in
6-inch or 7-inch pots are useful for many pur¬
poses, and to get them in good condition it is
necessary to keep them well supplied with
liquid manure as soon as they have filled their
pots full of roots. Those to form specimens
must be put into the pots in which they are to
flower, early in January. With reference to
the

Wintering of these plants, we find that
they are impatient of fire heat, and that if they

can be kept secure from frost they are bet
without it than with it. Our own plants 5
keep in cold pits, and by using plenty of '
temal coverings on the lights, and thick lini 9
of long manure against the walls, we n 3r
trouble to remove them until the thermon er
outside registers 20 degs. of frost. W n
such is the case we select the middle of th‘ a y
to uncover the pit, and remove the plant 0 a
structure in which there is just sufficient* 5
to keep the temperature above the fr^S
point. Directly the frost is gone the pla 1 are
taken back to the pit again. In reaf* 5 to
watering it is necessary to understand* 5 the
time of potting that these Calceolarias e im ‘
patient of too much water about the rob anc *
therefore ample drainage must be pvided.

For a 6-inch pot the crocks should d* tocn
deep, with a piece of rough peat or l« n ove jT
them ; for an 8-inch pot 2 inches of c^ks anc *
the covering on the top will be pessary.
With drainage in proper order, the^alth of
the plants is in a great measure secur ;
the same time the watering must be one W1 *'J}
care. If they have too much, the aves will
soon get yellow and cease to grow ; cthe other
hand, if the soil in the pots is alK®d to get
dry for a few times the plants will ,on g 6 * 5 . m '
fested with greenfly, and will get i*» sacl \ a
weakly condition as to be past recov*y« Under
treatment similar to that just recorcl specimens
may be produced that will carry g 8 * 5 heads of
bloom, which for showiness an< richness of
colour are unsurpassed by those : most other
plants. Mr. Rapley, of Bedfo;-hill House,
Balham, has one of the finest st)* na °* Calceo¬
larias in cultivation, and his shvhouse, when
the plants are in bloom, during I a y an( * June,
is a sight worth going a long jeruey to see by
anyone interested in this class epla 11 * 5 *

C. C.

Propagating Gloxinia —Gloxinias are
now propagated much by mea* °* cuttings, fine
kinds being readily obtaine from seed, but
where good-named sorts are rown, or any ex¬
traordinarily good-formed ojwell-marked seed¬
lings have appeared, it is w-1 to guard against
losing them in the winter bjraising some young
bulbs. The leaves will noybe in the right con¬
dition for propagating, ling wrell matured.
Put three or four togetheiinto 6-inch or i -inch
pots, filled with leaf-moul and fine peat,, two
parts of the latter to one^f the former, with a
fourth part of sand, inser-ng the loaves round
the edges of the pots. By this means much
better bulbs will be secued than by cutting the
mid-rib of the leaf and facing it on the surface
of the pot. These leaf-uttings must not be con¬
fined overmuch, or the will be liable to rot. It
may be well to remarl that the more perfect
and well matured the 'aves are the better, as
the longer they remin green and fresh the
better bulbs they wilbnake.

11703 .—Margueites. —The plants with
thick stems you saw’in Paris are the result of
several years’ cultire, and with but. little
trouble you may gt equally large specimens.
Paris Daisies are c remarkably easy culture,
and are best grownin the open air through the
summer months h a sunny place. \ oung
plants should be siifted along as the pots get
full of roots, and vlien in the course of a year
or two they come into 8-inch pots they may be
allowed to reman in them for some years, as
by giving them seme liquid manure occasionally,
and taking care fiat they never fail for want of
moisture, they nay be kept in a prosperous
condition. Pars Daisies do not care for much
rich food, they lower better when the roots are
rather confined giving them good food as they
need. Good bam with a little leaf-soil is the
best compost for them.—J. C. B.

11713 .— Fuchsia flowers falling off.—There is a
want of vitality probably caused by too little air. In a
window in sunnier, when the weather is hot, Fuchsias are

head in the evming on tine clays, inis wiu k*' « ^

fresh strength, and if the flowers now expanding drop, still
fresh buds will form and good blooms will open later on. -
J. C. B.

11722 .—Liiium auratum.—it ought not to be
necessary to purchase bulbs every year, as by growing
them well they increase in strength ; but it sometimes

wav is tc pick off the blooms, thus concentrating the
stsrengtB of the plant for that season on bulb formation.—

J 'URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jolt 26, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

23?

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Conservatory. —With an abundance of free
growing plants, including Liliums, Fuchsias,
Kaloaanthes, Achimenes, Pelargoniums, and
tuberons Begonias, with a few graceful foliage

f ilants rising above them, the conservatory may
* kept very gay for some considerable time ;
indeed, with suitable structures at command,
the Begonias and Geraniums may be had in
bloom nearly all the year round, and under

r i management the more tender subjects may
succeeded by early batches of Primulas,
Cinerarias, and other free-growing plants
which delight in light, rich soil, and partial
shade during the time they are making their
growth. To secure fine plants they should be
potted on before the roots become bound, and
a pit or frame facing the north will suit them
better than a sunny aspect where shading is
oeeeaary. Salvia splendens, the old Chrysan¬
themum frutescens, still one of the best, and

T toriums now growing in the reserve borders
require copious watering and syringing
after the sun is off them. Tree Carnations will
now t>e ready for the final shift into blooming
pots of moderate size. The soil for these
shoaid be carefully hand-picked, to free it
tram wireworm, and an open but sheltered
situation in the open air, where they can be
plunged to the rim in ashes, while securing
them from earthworms, will also induce the
formation of short-jointed sturdy growths, from
which good flowers may be expected. Another
sowing of Mignonette must be made, and plants
from former sowings shifted on will be found
useful through the early part of the winter.
The lights in this structure may now remain
open by night and day, and good syringing
where water can be applied without injury to
the flowers will tend to health, cleanliness, and
freedom from insects.

Dwarf-growing Ferns, such as Adiantum
coneatum, A gracillimum, and the taller A.
formosum, together with the many crested
forms of Pteris serrulata, P. cretica albo-lineata,
and also the green P. cretica—one of the best of
all Ferns for bearing hard usage—may with
advantage be interspersed amongst the dwarfer¬
growing subjects in the greenhouse. All plants
introduced to conservatories from warmer
quarters must be carefully treated as regards
water, which should only be applied at a tem¬
perature approaching that to which the plants
have been accustomed ; but they should receive
no more than is necessary to prevent the soil
from getting so dry as to cause them to flag.

Achimenes and Gloxinias. —Some of the
latest-started, that have received as cool treat-
Tient through the summer as they could be
induced to make progress under, will, when
beginning to flower, be in the best condition for
Ending in the conservatory, being careful not
to admit the cool external air directly in con¬
tact with them. Where plants are arranged in
groups on the floor, or on low table-like stages,
it is always well to avoid the pots being more
seen than is necessary; and, in order to effect
this, sufficient numbers of Isolepis graeilis and
Lycopodium denticulatum should be grown in
4 inch or 5-inch pots, so as to stand as close as
the pots will admit in the immediate front of
the arranged groups. A good effect may be
iproduced by introducing amongst these green
rants Coprosma Baueriana variegata and small
samples of the white-leaved Centaureas, to-
her with anything else at hand that will take
the stiff formality of rows of one or more
ids.

Fuchsias. —These strike like weeds, and
present is the best time in the year for
g in cuttings, in order to get young stock
will bloom as early in the spring as is
aired, in a comparatively small state ; or they
[_? be grown on at the option of the cultivator
large a size as may be considered requisite
later flowering. Shoots that have formed
root indifferently, and never make good
fcts. Young growths should be chosen from
* the base of the stronger branches. Put
say half-a-dozen together, in 5-inch or
pots, drained and filled with sandy soil,
miffing with a bell-glass. Keep them moist
■^ifeaded in a little warmth. Take care that
the etttings previous to insertion are fre^from
Jpbide* and red spider, eipecialTjV tic

w'hich B’uchsias are subject at this time of the
year. Out of the many fine varieties that now
exist there need be no lack of choice ; but there
is a great difference in their inclination to
flower early. Amongst all that have been raised,
none find so much favour with market growers,
as regards their early free-blooming disposition,
as the white and rose variety called Mrs.
Marshall, and the crimson kind, with violet
corolla, named Try-me-O. The plants which
bloomed early, and which are now getting
shabby, should be turned out of doors for a
fortnight, and should receive no more water
than will keep them from flagging too much;
then let their side branches be well shortened in
and the main stem slightly reduced, giving a
good wushing with Tobacco water, to whi<m a
little Gishurst has beeD added, so as to free
them from aphides, thrips, and their eggs,
and then put them in a pit that can be kept
close and slightly shaded. Thus treated and
syringed overhead daily, they will quickly
break into fresh growth. If in comparatively
little pots, they may have"a small shift; but, if
they have sufficient room already, weak manure
water will answer. Under this treatment they
will again get well furnished with branches that
will keep on flowering until the end of October
or later, and they will be found very serviceable
for greenhouse and conservatory decoration, as
well as for cutting, in which condition their
flowers will last much longer than earlier in the
season.

Pelargoniums. —The earliest-flowered large
varieties of these, that were turned into the
open air recently, should, now that the lower
part of their shoots will have assumed a hard
brown colour, indicative of the necessary ripened
condition, be cut down, leaving two or three
eyes (according to the size of the specimens)
above where the shoots spring from, and as soon
as the heads are thus removed, place the plants
in a pit or frame, where they will be protected
from too much wet; keep them a little close,
and syringe them overhead daily. Thus
managed, they will push young growths forth¬
with. The fancy varieties may be treated in a
similar manner, but they do not require, nor
will they bear, cutting in nearly so close as the
larger-flowered kinds, and in their case it is
even more necessary to be careful that the roots
do not get too wet.

Chrysanthemums.— The time is now come
when Chrysanthemums want the most careful
attention, without which, no matter how well
they have been treated in the early stages of
their growth, or what may be subsequently
done for them when nearer blooming, they will
fail to give satisfaction, for now, as their pots
are getting full of roots, should there be any
neglect in not keeping the soil sufficiently moist,
or in supplying them with liquid manure regu¬
larly, they will neither retain their foliage in a
fresh healthy state down to the base, nor will
they produce such a head of fully developed
flowers as they otherwise would do. Where the
plants are plunged see that the roots do not
grow through the bottoms of the pots. Keep
the branches regularly tied, so as to avoid break¬
age through wind, and place them sufficiently
far apart in a light position to prevent them be¬
coming drawn, and to admit of getting amongst
them to water and syringe them, which latter
operation should be practised in the evening of
every dry day.

Flower Garden.

This is a good time to fill up any spare space
there may still be in mixed flower borders with
seedling Wallflowers, Antirrhinums, Pentste-
mons, and Sweet Williams. Plant them out in
clumps of three or five plants together, and give
them a good watering when they are first put
out. All the attention required afterwards is
protection from slugs until they have become
well established. Herbaceous plants generally
need attention as to ties, and supports, and weed
ing. Dahlias, Hollyhocks, and all large-grow¬
ing sub-tropical plants should be frequently
looked over, and be kept tied to stakes as
growth progresses. Roses should have all de¬
cayed flowers cut off at least twice a week, an
operation which will tend to the earlier produc¬
tion of a second bloom. Stir the ground about
them deeply, and if they lack vigour of growth
give a good dressing of guano ; its effect will
soon be visible in the darker hue of the foliage.

Dahlias.—W here there is a large collection

of these the plants require considerable atten¬
tion now that they are making rapid growth.
Tying and thinning the shoots as well as the
flower-buds must be attended to. It requires
some experience to know the right treatment
for each different variety of the Dahlia. There
are some sorts that cannot be thinned out too
much ; others, again, may be injured by over-
thinning. In a few words, it may be said that
all the varieties with flowers below the usual
size, and that have close-set, small petals,
cannot be over-thinned or disbudded, while those
with large flowers and large open petals may be
very moderately thinned. In the case of those
intended for exhibition, the aim ought to be to
get all the flowers as nearly as possible of one
size. Earwics, slugs, and such like pests, should
should now be sought closely after.

Gladioli are excellent plants for margins of
Rhododendron beds, and their varied brilliaut
colours contrast well with deep green foliage.
At the present time Bocconia cordata is in fine
condition in shrubbery borders ; it is worth
growing for its foliage alone, but when fur¬
nished with Spirsea-like plumes it is really a
noble plant, and, as it will take care of itself in
any soil or position, it ought to be more largely
grown. Another desirable plant is the old
Fuchsia Riccartoni, which is now in fine condi- ’
tion, with graceful shoots 5 feet or 6 feet in
height, and laden with blossoms. In sunny
positions, where tender plants become dried up'
quickly, Stonecrops and other succulent plants
should be planted, as they thrive in heat and
drought. Sedum spectabile is an excellent kind
for the purpose, and will soon be in flower ; it
has a fine effect when edged with the dwarf
Sedum Lydium, and both succeed well in dry,
hot positions on poor soil.

Shrubbery.

Where the annual pruning of shrubs has
been delayed, it should now be taken in hand,
otherwise young growths which follow will be
too tender to withstand the frost of the next
winter. It is now a good time to make notes
of any intended alterations to be made during
the coming autumn and winter, for the earlier
the transplanting of trees .and shrubs is carried
out after September, the greater will be the
chances of successful results, for if kept moist
at the roots the plants get established quickly.
Proceed with the cutting of evergreen hedges.
If done once early in the season, there will not
be much to cut off, and a thick edge will be the
result. The general pruning of living trees
and hedges of various kinds produces the most
pleasing effect when performed with a knife.
Ivy on buildings should be closely cut now,
after which it will become covered with fresh
green leaves quickly. Rhododendrons should
now be divested of all seed vessels, as it would
not only improve the appearance of the shrubs,
but will be beneficial to them, as the formation
of seeds tends to weaken them. Rhododendrons
are very liable to suffer from drought if planted
in light peaty soil, and when they show signs of
flagging, copious waterings should be given
them.

Fruit.

Peaches. —Peach trees in late houses may
now be thinned and tied down, and where trees
have filled the allotted space many of the shoots
not absolutely leaders may be pinched or short¬
ened back, for the twofold purpose of letting
in light and air, and increasing the size of the
fruit. When the fruits are hanging below the
trellis an effort should be made to get them
raised above the foliage to insure colour. This
work may be most conveniently performed as
tying-down is proceeded with, when a dexterous
man, with short pieces of thin lath laid across
the trellis, will elevate 75 per cent, of the finest
Peaches.

Strawberries. —The plants should now be
cleared of runners, and the ground pointed
over. New plantations may also be made, either
with forced plants or newly-formed runners.
Deeply and weil-cnriched ground is indispensable
to the production of fine Strawberries.

Raspberries.— It will now be necessary to
thin out the new canes to the minimum point—
about three to each stool—and, as soon as the
fruit has all been gathered, any of the old canes
that interfere with the full development of the
new growths should 346 removed. In order to
prevent injury from wind, the new canes should
also be tlied in at‘once. 1

URBANA-CHANIPA1GN

238

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 26, 1884.

The new shoots and points of cordon and
espalier-trained trees of Apples and Pears may
likewise now be tied in. Spur back all growths
not required for furnishing the trees to within
three joints of the old wood, an operation which,
combined with partial root-pruning at the
proper season, will conduce to fruitfulness.
The majority of Peaches and Apricots may now
have the current year’s shoots laid or tied into
the wall, but previously pinch closelv back all
sublateral growths that have formed on them.
Keep down aphides and red spider by occa¬
sional syringings with soap-suds or a weak
solution of Gishurat Compound.

Vegetables.

Exhausted crops should not be allowed to re¬
main in the ground longer than is convenient,
as they impoverish the land without yielding
any return, and it is important that future crops
should become established before the growing
season is on the wane. Peas, Broad Beans,
seeding Lettuce, and Turnips are some of the
crops to which these remarks of clearing apply.
The ground, after due preparation, either by
digging or simply freeing of weeds, should be
recropped.

On tne Pea ground, for instance, with Kales
and Broccoli; on the other, Onions, Endive,
Parsley, and Spinach ; the latter is a most im¬
portant crop, and the ground for it should have
deep culture and be in an open or exposed
situation. We usually sow about the middle of
August, and, except in the most severe weather,
have always, throughout the winter, been able
to gather a dish of good Spinach whenever
required. The earliest Celery should be earthed
up, previous to which pull off small side
leaves or shoots, tie up so as to prevent the soil
lodging in it, and also give a good soaking of
water. If the Celery fly be troublesome, dust
with wood ashes and soot once a week. This
is also a good preventive against the ravages of
the Turnip fly, which at this season is apt to be
troublesome.

Scarlet Runners and dwarf French Beans will
continue double the length of time in bearing if
the Beans are gathered as they become fit for
use. A good way also of obtaining a succession
of produce is to denude the plants on half of
the plot of their flow’ers, when they will at once
throw out fresh lateral shoots and flowers, and
be from a fortnight to three weeks later than
the other half. Such a plan is worthy of adop¬
tion by those whose ground is limited, and suc-
cessional sowings cannot, therefore, be made.
Another excellent w r ay to obtain late produce is
to entirely strip the plants of both fruit aud
blossoms, top the shoots, and point over the
ground and apply a rich mulching of manure,
and if dry well supply with water; they will
soon fruit as freely as at first.

A little winter Onion seed should be sown ;
it is better to put some in now and again in a
fortnight’s time than to trust to one sowing, as
in severe winters the plants from one will fre¬
quently succeed w’hen the others fail. Very
much depends on the kind of weather prevailing
during the autumn, for the young plants of the
first sowing will sometimes get a little too
large, and in other seasons the second will be
too late. Prepare the ground well by deep
digging and moderate manuring; sow in rows
1 foot apart. In very bleak, cold situations
the White Lisbon, being very hardy, is suit¬
able for sowing; in milder localities Giant
Rocca and Globe Tripoli are good kinds.

Cut out the flower-stems of Globe Artichokes
as soon as the heads are gathered ; neglect in
this matter at this season is often the cause of
the plants dying off through the winter. The
young growth makes little progress until the old
stumps are removed, not having time to get
strong enough before autumn. Finish planting
late Broccoli and all kinds of winter greens.
Walcheren and Veitch’s Autumn Giant Cauli¬
flowers should also be planted for late autumn
use on well-manured land in an open position.
Sow a good breadth of Prickly Spinach for
standing the winter.

Parsley may yet be sown for late spring
picking ; it will not run to seed quite so soon as
that sown earlier. Make a good sowing of
Endive, of both the Green-curled and Batavian
varieties, for winter. The earliest sown cfop
will now be full grown, and portions of it
should be tied up and blanched in succession.
The blanching matf easily be effected at this

DlgltlzSbyXjOOglC

season by covering each plant with an inverted
flower-pot, with a bit of Moss twisted into the
hole to keep out wet, air, and light. Plants
from the successional sowings should be planted
out on well-prepared land, 1 foot apart, at
intervals of two or three weeks.

ROSES.

GLOIRE DE DIJON ROSE.

To the many other good qualities belonging to
this grand old Rose may be added the facts that
it seems disease-proof and is probably the longest
lived Rose w’hich we possess. In these two
admirable qualities it presents a striking con¬
trast to some of the finer Tea and other Roses.
Unless smitten or killed by frost, which it rarely
is, there is seldom anything amiss with the
Gloire de Dijon. The older it grows the more
freely it flowers, and that is about the only
effect of old age on the Glory. But in the best
sense Roses of the style and habit of Gloire de
Dijon never get old. They are constantly
undergoing a process of regeneration. The
strong shoots that they seem ever ready to throw
forth, on the gentlest hint from the cultivator,
virtually form young plants on the broad
foundations of the old stools. And these recu¬
perative processes are constantly going on,
especially w'hen Gloire de Dijon is grown as it
ought to be, on its own roots. But our purpose
now is merely to point out the value of this
Rose planted on different aspects for a succes¬
sion of bloom.

I have already strongly recommended it as pro¬
bably the bestofall Rosesforthe clothingof walls,
and the best of the Glory is that it will grow'
with almost equal freedom on walls of any and
every aspect. On south walls early stray
blossoms may be gathered early in May, and
sometimes earlier in favourable seasons. It is
rather singular, however, that the Marshal
Niel, though much more tender, is also earlier in
the open air on a south wall. East and w'est
aspects seem equally welcome to Gloire de
Dijon. Some of the finest formed and sweetest
scented blooms of this fine Rose I ever gathered
were grow f n on an east wall with several points
of north in it. And this leads us to state that,
useful as this Rose proves grown on the three
most favourable points of the compass, it is yet
more useful grown on a north walk In the
cool shade of such a position the Roses lay on a
colour and a fulness of fragrance which they
seldom or never acquire wiien exposed to the
mid-day sun’s broad glare. The effect of shadow'
on the colour and fragrance of Roses is one of
those points winch has not yet received the
attention it deserves. Gloire de Dijon Roses
gathered from off southern and northern aspects
could hardly be believed by the uninitiated to
be the self-same variety. Nor does the sun
merely dispel colour—it dissipates sweetness.
The difference in fragrance in favour of Roses
growm on a north w r all is far more pronounced
than in regard to colour, great though the
latter is.

Few Roses can equal the Glory in its rich
diversity of colour. Almost every possible shade
of yellow, fawn, orange, salmon, buff, saffron
are illustrated in the varied colouring of this
splendid Rose. On the whole it is much darker
as well as richer coloured from a north wall.
And neither is the improvement effected by cool¬
ness and shade confined to a heightening of its
colour and an increase of its fragrance. The
form of the Rose is also greatly improved.
Unless in bud, few rosarians go into raptures
over the form of the Glory. It is a style of
Rose in which form is partly dispensed with on
account of its many other sterling qualities.
But growm on a north wall the blooms of the
Gloire de Dijon seem to find time to reconstruct
or remodel their material, and greatly improve
their form, so that altogether we get something
like a new Glory among our Roses by simply
growing the old one on a north wall. For the
comfort of those who have no wall to spare, even
for Gloire de Dijon, it may be added that most
of the above advantages may be secured by any¬
one who will simply grow this fine old Rose
either as a dw'arf or a standard, in different
sites.

The Glory is not simply the best wall Rose,
but also as a standard or for forming beds or
masses as a dw arf. Treated thus it will produce
a profusion of bloom, moat of them of tne very

highest quality. One of the most successful
methods of treating the Gloire de Dijon as a
bedding Rose is to plant strong plants from 1
yard to 5 feet or 6 feet asunder. Encourage a
vigorous growth in from six to a dozen shoots ;
permit these to ramble wild and free the first
season. In the following autumn or spring cut
away the whole of the old wood that may have
bloomed the previous year, and peg down these
strong shoots regularly all over the surface of
the bed. These will flower with the utmost

E rofusion, while the strain put on their base
y being sharply bent down will cause other
strong shoots to break forth. These should be
treated as before, and the flowering shoots again
removed. In this way the plants are really
renewed every year, while the constant demand
for and furnishing of successional flowering
wood keeps the roots in full swing and the plants
in vigorous health.—D. T.

Rose Celeste.— This old Rose grows 1,1
with a wild vigour that is very pleasant to see.

Its shoots run along underground, and crop up
unexpectedly in the heart of some foliage plant
not far distant, or ramble on to force their way
through the Box edging, or even pierce the
gravel walk. These suckers, if left alone,
blossom the following year, but they generally
push up so inconsiderately as regards their
neighbours that they have to be cut away. The
vitality of this Rose is very noticeable. It is
quite heedless of the hardest frosts or cruellest
winds, and is unvisited by any blight or insect.
Equally careless is it of sunshine or shade, and
seems likewise indifferent as to soil. Indeed, it
would appear as if the ills of life had little power
over this celestial Rose, whose very fragrance
breathes of a better world. But of all times to
see it is just after a summer shower, w hen the
blue-grey of the leaves, with some special refrac¬
tive pow r er, transform, as it were, the raindrops
into frosted silver, from which veil of enchant¬
ment look cut the buds of exquisite promise; «

for it is in the buds that the great charm of this
Rose lies ; their tender grace and inner depth
of rosiness give such delicious expectancy— >

suggest so much that rests concealed. —L. L. ^

11706.— Moving Rose trees.— July is c
certainly a very bad time to transplant Rose 5
trees, and w T ith all the care that can be exercised
they will be sure to suffer some loss of vitality.

If the weather is hot, choose the morning and
evening for moving them, and immediately they
are out of the ground—previously having tied
the branches together, and shortened the shoots
to about two-thirds of their length—sprinkle ■;
the roots and envelope them in wet litter, then *j
if you take precautions not to let the litter dry t]
too much, the Rose trees will retain their fresh- ^
ness, and the wood will not shrivel. Lay them
in, in a cool shady place, keep them well watered
and sprinkled twice a day, and plant in
permanent positions not before mid October.
Treated thus you will bring them through safely.
-J. C. B. j

HOUSE <fc WINDOW GARDENING.

NOTES ON WINDOW PLANTS.

The Pyramidal Saxifrage. —One of the
finest of window plants at present in bloom is a
Saxifrage, about which there exists some confu¬
sion of name. It is nearly allied to the alpine
Saxifraga Cotyledon, of which, in fact, it is
merely a variety, and is sold sometimes under
the name of S. pyramidalis, and sometimes as
S. nepalensis. Under the latter name I grew
it for many years, until I learnt on good,
authority that it had no right to be so called.
The reason of this confusion of names is not far
to seek, because, under different modes of treat- '
ment, the plant assumes very different habits.

It is one of the best and finest of the encrusted
leaved Saxifrages, when grown in the open
border or upon rock-work ; but from its habit of
throwing out runners, which are generally
allowed to cluster round the parent plant
and form dense tufts, it is rarely seen in such
positions in perfection of bloom. To grow it
well in pots for the window or cool greenhouse,
these offsets must be continually removed, as
they weaken the mother plant. To begin at the
beginning of their culture as specimens, the
offsets, as soon as they are removed, should he
priek«d into a pan of rich but sandy boil. Here

URBANA-CHAMPAfGN

July 26 , 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

239

they soon form into rosettes, which, when about
an inch across, should be potted singly in 3-inch
pots, and carefully watered. If the shelter of a
cold frame can be given them, so much the bettei
for the cultivator ; but, being perfectly hardy,
any sheltered position out of doors will suit them
well, and better than either greenhouse or
window, while making their growth, if the pots
be sank up to the rims in coal ashes to keep the
roots cool and moist. As soon as the roots
touch the sides of the pot another shift should
be given into the next size, and so on until they
are Urge enough for 8-inch pots, in which they
may be allowed to bloom. The secret of their
culture is never to allow them to be at a stand¬
still Some growers, to save the trouble of
incessant shifting on, prefer to plant them out
in the open border until large enough for the
final potting up, but the plan seldom answers
quite so well. In either case it is most im¬
portant to remove all runners as soon as they
appear, and the best of these should, from time
to time, be pricked into pans for succession,
especially where a number of plants are likely to
he wanted. All malformed rosettes should be
at once discarded, as they will never give good
radts. On this account more plants should
be potted than are required, as some
art sere to become misshapen. If care be thus
taken in their cultivation the pyramid of bloom
will be remarkably fine. I have had them
36 inches in height from the rim of the pot, and
6 feet in circumference at the base, forming
grand plants for the conservatory or corridor.
To reach this size they must remain from fifteen
to eighteen months in pots—i.<\, offsets of this
season will bloom in the spring of 1886. But by
the above method it is quite easy to have as
many blooming plants every season as may be
required. If shifting should be neglected the
plants freauently bloom the second year through
being pot-bound, but, in that case, the pyramid
of flower is much smaller. For furnishing a
greenhouse and associating with Ferns and flowers
of other kinds, it is sometimes convenient to
have a number of these smaller plants. When
there is no cold frame it is better to remove the
pots to the shelter of a light spare window for
the winter, where they will give little or no
trouble, only requiring to be watered occasion¬
ally. As soon as the flower stem begins to rise,
a neat, slight rod, or stout wire, should be in¬
serted in the pot close to the stem, which should
be tied to it by degrees as it ad vances in
height, otherwise it is apt to become curved
or crooked. The bloom lasts for several weeks,
which adds to the decorative value of the plant,
bat after flowering it dies. The offsets, how¬
ever, form a perpetual mode of increase, so that
a constant succession may with ease be kept up.
Then grown to perfection the Pyramidal Saxi¬
frage is too remarkable a plant to pass un-
aoticed. It is a special favourite in the village
where the writer lives, where it may be seen in
many a cottage window and sometimes finds its
way to the neighbouring town, where, on one
occasion, it was noticed by a noble lady, who,
stopping her carriage, sent her servant to enquire
what it was, in order to obtain it for her own
garden, much to the gratification of the humble
owner, who, on leaving her native place, had
carried the plant to her new home. No matter
for what position, the Pyramidal Saxifrage is

( worth growing well, because it tells its own tale
cf good culture, and is unequalled for room or
greenhouse decoration at ,midsummer, when
cool-looking white flowers are always welcome.
Semperyiyum barbatulum. —Another excel-
nt window plant, now in flower with me, is a
crabby species of House Leek, which I believe
> be Sempervivum barbatulum, and which is
^asionally, but not frequently, met with. Its
r.metrical rosettes branch out from the main
, and it may be known by its thick, fleshy
sras being splashed with dark green lines
oen young. These lines gradually acquire a
vn tint, which, with a fringe of minute
add dots, like tiny dew-drops, surrounding
\ edge of each leaflet, give the plant a very
*sact and pleasing character. The flowers,
are borne in great profusion in strong
tei, are bright yellow, and grow in spreading
and have a tendency to droop round the
ffc Its culture is of the simplest kind, for it
Stares only to be potted in sandy, friable loam,
pW in a sunny window and occasionally
^atcad during the sumi
dij from October to Mi

nni€rr , but k«pt jJtnost

hardy, and needs the protection of a warm
window or greenhouse, from which frost is ex¬
cluded during the winter, otherwise it is next
to impossible to kill it. I once saw this Sem¬
pervivum at Lyme Regis filling a window with
such a cascade of bloom that it seems worth
while to call attention to it since it gives so
crest a return for a very small amount of
labour.

Two good White Cacti. —Cacti are favourite
window plants. A magnificent white species,
Phyllocactus grandu, is now in bloom. It
opens its large, flat, ivory-white flowers towards
evening, which, if kept in a cool room, will
remain for two or three days in beauty. A
strong plant will produce many in succession.
I know no large-flowered Cactus which takes up
so little room as this fine species. Being very
dwarf, a good plant may be grown in a 6-inch
pot, and, unlike most others, it has the peculi¬
arity of pushing its flower-buds from the round
bases of its flat stems. Another very fine
species, also in bloom, is P. crenatus, and may
be known by the deep indentations of its flat
stems. Its flowers are almost egg-shaped, and
are of a pale cream colour, rather than white,
the sepals shading off from buff to a red-brown,
adding greatly to their beauty. The flowers,
perhaps, lack the substance of the last-named,
and scarcely last so long; but Cactus lovers
cannot fail to admire both species, which,
moreover, are quite distinct from each other,
and are much more rarely met with than the
scarlet and pink sorts. Those who have Cactus
plants now going out of bloom should stand
them out of doors in full exposure in the
warmest spot at their disposal for two months
or more, according to the season. This will
ensure a much better bloom next year. This
treatment will be found to suit even the tender
winter-flowering Epiphyllums. The pots should
be taken under shelter again not late r than the
end of September. Very heavy and continuous
rains, and the depredations of slugs, which are
particularly fond of browsing on the succulent
stems, must be equally guarded against during
this summering season. L. K. D.

SHORT NOTES.

Propagating Violets. —Now is the time
to strike cuttings of these. The runners, which
are often too freely produced, strike readily in
a close cold frame. Those who show a tendency
to form a terminal bud should be selected in
preference to runners having a tendency to
increase in length. Autumn-struck cuttings, if
put in about 3 inches apart, and within a few
inches of the glass, produce an immense quan¬
tity of bloom in the late winter and early spring
months. They can easily be accelerated or
retarded by keeping on the lights or exposing
them freely to the weather as circumstances
demand. Of the single sorts I prefer odora-
tissima, and of the double-flowered kinds,
Marie Louise, a grand Violet, and the old
Neapolitan.

The Mountain Evening Primrose

((Enothera montana).—Few plants are more
effective than this, its handsome yellow flowers
being produced on established plants in great
Quantities. Though the blossoms individually
do not last long, they are produced so freely in
succession that they may make a good display
for many weeks. In character this (Enothera
somewhat resembles (E. macrocarpa, and is
well worth culture where a showy summer and
autumn-flowering plant is required. It can be
raised from seed, or the roots may be divided.

Double Rockets. —During August and
September cuttings of these should be put in ;
also plant out the side shoots in some fine soil,
into which they soon root. There are two dis¬
tinct forms of the Double White as well as of the
Double Purple Rocket in cultivation. The
former is a tall-growing white, which turns to
a pale flesh-colour with age; the other is the
old white variety, of dwarfer growth, and with
smaller and more compact flowers. The latter
is very scarce indeed. It can sometimes be met
with in the neigh bourhood of Manchester and
elsewhere in the north, but it is little known in
the south, where it does not flourish so well as
the common variety. There is the old Purple
Double Rocket and a free-growing dwarf form
known as Compactness, which has also larger
and darker flowers. This can be easily pro¬

pagated. During the autumn and winter months
snails are very fond of the plants. They attack
the white much more than they do the purple
forms.

Plants for stone walls. —Numerous
plants thrive well on a rough stone wall, puttiug
a little cow manure and loam to start them in.
The Sedums, or Stonecrops, look quite at home,
and increase rapidly ; also several kinds of
Campanulas, siugle Wallflowers, Sweet Wil¬
liams, hardy Ferns in great variety, white Arabis
Aubrietias, and many early spring flowers, such
as Forget-me-nots ; in fact, in a cool position as
described, a veritable flower garden may be
established. In planting use a little Moss with
the soil, and press the plants firmly into the
crevices. Keep constantly moist until well
rooted ; they will take care of themselves after¬
wards.

Earthing up Celery.— In retentive soils
late Celery often suffers considerably from damp
lodging in and around the hearts after being
earthed up, and in some places many plants arc
useless from this cause. The best way of
obviating or checking this tendency to decay is
to plant on the surface, and blanch with ashes,
burnt earth, or old spent tan, first tying the
plants carefully up, and then placing whatever
material is used around and amongst the plants,
pressing it round them with the hand. Besides
preserving the crop from premature decay, ashes
keep the slugs and snails at a distance, and
during severe weather less covering will suffice
to keep out frost.

Mushroom in cellars.— Procure sufficient
horse droppings to make a bed the size required,
and from 1 foot to 18 inches deep when beaten
or trodden down firmly. The bed may either l>c
made against a wall and be flat, or in a ridge
shape anywhere in the cellar. The manure
must either have been fermented in a heap, and
frequently turned and intermixed to carry off
some of the rankness, or, if the manure is used
fresh, a barrowful of fresh loamy soil should be
added to every four or five barrowfuls of
manure, varying the quantity a little according
to the freshness of the latter. The bed must be
trodden or beaten down tiimly, and as soon as
the temperature has become steady, if it does
not exceed 90 degs., and is a little on the
decline, pieces of spawn as large as a full-grown
Walnut may be inserted by making holes with
a dibble 8 inches or 9 inches apart and 3 inches
deep, closing the holes and making all firm
again when finished. Place on 2 inches of fresh
soil as soon as the spawn begins to run freely,
and leave the surface smooth and firm. The
manure should be that of horses consuming
principally com and other dry food.

Lifting.—In digging Potatoes the weather
and soil should be, if possible, both dry, as
nothing is worse than having them wet at taking-
up time, or indeed at any time after they arc
taken up. If dug when wet the soil adheres to
them and makes them both unsightly and not
easily dried. After September Potatoes should
only be dug in the mornings on fine days, and if
they arc thrown well on the surface of the soil
they will dry a good deal before night, espe¬
cially if the soil under them is moderately dry,
and they should be placed under cover before
night. Greening is one of the worst faults an
eating Potato can have, and this must be avoided
at harvesting time, and the sooner therefore
they can be dried and the quicker stored the
better. When digging up a piece of Potatoes
the tubers for different purposes should be
selected. All those for eating we secure first,
as it is important to get them out of the light,
and it does not matter much if those for seed
are left some days on the soil.

Bone dust. —Bone dust is not at all a suit¬
able manure for potting plants such as Begonias,
Geraniums, Fuchsias, and as it takes a long time
to rot and assimilate with the soil, the proper
thing to use is well-rotted horse or cow manure.
If it has lain for a few months mixed with soil
all the better. A friend of mine forms a stack
of sods (turf) with layers of cow manure be¬
tween each layer of sods. This he stocks six
months before ho requires to use it. In using
it he chops the soil from top to bottom with the
spade, and adds a little sharp river sand to it
when potting to give good drainage.

Cutting young hedges.— If not already
done, ^feting Thorn or Quick hedges should bo
cut at ® ood »

240

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jolt 26, 1884.

thick, impenetrable hedge, is by repeated clip¬
ping. I would advise clipping in June, and
again in September ; they will then keep trim
and neat all the winter. In Kent the hedges
arc an especial good feature around fruit
gardens, and they are all clipped twice a year,
and the soil for 2 feet on each side well cleared
of weeds. This is done early in spring and at
midsummer so that the shoots do not get
choked with rubbish, but grow freely right
down to the ground; all kinds of weeds,
Elders, or Brambles, are rooted out directly
they are seen.

How to make a hotbed. —Gather the
materials into a heap, shake it well, so as to
separate and mix the particles, watering any
spots that are dry. Leave it a week or ten days
to ferment; then turn over, mix, and water
again, and leave for a few days to heat as before.
Mark out the bed by driving in stakes at the
corners, which should be large enough to give a
clear margin of 1 foot outside the frame all
round. The bed should be made moderately
linn to secure a regular, steady heat for a con¬
siderable period. If a large proportion of tree
leaves can be had to mix with the stable manure,
there will be less need for previous fermenting.
Once well mixing will suffice.

Rosette Colewort. — In a good many
small gardens Coleworts are not much grown.
Where it is the custom to allow the Cabbage
stems, from which the spring and summer
Cabbages have been cut, to remain for a second
crop, there are generally plenty of young,
tender hearts equal to Coleworts without
making a special sowing or planting. But
often during severe winters the old Cabbages
are destroyed, whilst the young Coleworts re¬
main uninjured, proving that it is hardly wise to
depend upon one source of supply. If the
Rosette Coleworts be sown now thinly in drills
the plants will be fit to transplant about the
end of September, and may be planted as a
catch crop to fill up vacancies anywhere, giving
each plant about a square foot of space to grow
in.

Herb beds. —Small beds are decidedly pre¬
ferable to larger ones, the usual width is 5 feet
with five rows of 'plants. If these are made
across any ordinary garden border they will
yield enough of any kind of herbs for a large
family. Sage, Thyme, and Lemon Thyme,
winter Savory, Marjoram, Tarragon, Fennel,
Sorrel, Pennyroyal, Rue, Rosemary, Hyssop,
and Mint are the perennial sorts most in roquest;
and of annual sorts, Sweet Basil, Pot Marjoram,
Knotted Marjoram, Bush Basil, and Borage are
the best with Chervil for salads. Bees are very
fond of the blossoms of all kinds of herbs, and
will find them in any part of the garden, but
Borage is frequently sown all round the hives to
provide food close at home for the bees in rough
weather.

Cutting Vegetable Marrows.— Those
who have beds of this vegetable now in good
fruitful condition, should Like every precaution
to keep them so, by not letting them get ex¬
hausted by over-cropping, and above all by not
allowing the fruit to get very large. Marrows
are usually most appreciated when of medium
size, and if left to get seedy they rob the plant
very much ; cut regularly three times a week,
thin and regulate shoots, and keep well supplied
with liquid manure in dry weather, and plenty
of young Marrows will be the result.

Garden walks. —It is an easy matter to
spend a large sum of money in asphalting or
gravelling garden walks ; and my object now is
to point out how a cheap and durable footpath
may easily be made. My remarks will not
apply so much to gardens where the subsoil is
gravelly, as to where it is peat, moss land, or
clay; as on light porous soils it matters little
what sort of surface the paths have, they are
always dry and solid. Bad drainage is largely
the cause of filthy walks. Place a o-inch drain
tile, 14 feet deep, down the centre of tho
walk, and have 4-inch iron grids placed on
funnels formed of bricks, and having an elbowed
tile leading from the bottom of the flue to the
drain in the centre of the path. These grids
must be placed at suitable intervals on each side
of the path. The top soil should bo taken off
the walk to the depth of 6 inches, and this
space must be fill&cL^ip with hard rubbish, as
brickbats, stonesfroughv c i Ei: ^*J>| £*•> and on

the top of this must be placed fine cinders to
make one solid mass, and which will also give a
smooth and porous surface. Care must be taken
to make the centre of the walk higher than the
sides, leaving a channel for the water to get
away to the grids. Then roll with heavy
rollers, taking care not to crush the elbowed
tiles at the bottom of the brick flues. This will
make a footpath that will be more durable than
asphalte, and that will cost little to repair it for
fifteen or twenty years, and, further, it not only
drains the walk and whole garden, but it deters
earth worms from breeding on the paths.

Tall Evening Primroses. —Those who
appreciate their gardens during the evening
hours should, of all things, grow these stately
Evening Primroses, which are most beautiful
immediately after sunset, or even far into the
gloaming. Their great soft yellow petals openout
so fresh, and the blossoms exhale such a delicate
fragrance, so peculiarly their own, that their
culture supplies quite an additional attraction
to the garden. Along with them should be
cultivated the different varieties of Mirabilis
Jalapa, or Marvel of Peru. These are of many
shades of colour, white, lilac, yellow, crimson,
and rose, and their blossoms are, as I think,
most deliciously fragrant at eventide. The
common Musk plant, Mignonette, and the
Night-scented Stock are also especially recom¬
mended for culture in beds or borders near to
the dwelling-house for the sake of their re¬
freshing fragrance.

Garden flowers. —Carnations are now at
their best, both single and double, of all colours,
from white through all shades of rose and
salmon-pink until the deeper and richer scarlet-
purple kinds contrast with the rich velvety
maroon tint of the old Clove, than which, as I
imagine, none of the entire family of these
popular blossoms can well be more fragrant.
Grenadin varieties come as near pure scarlet as
it is possible to be, much brighter indeed than
the so-called scarlet or Tom Thumb Clove. A
Picotee we grow here, called Painted Lady, is
always much admired, its blossoms being
daintily fringed, of a bright reddish scarlet
above on a white ground colour. I believe I am
right in saying that the florists formerly made a
separate class of these Painted Lady forms, dis¬
tinguishing them from Selfs,Bizarres,and Flakes,
by reason of the colour being superficial, only
not penetrating through to the back of the petal.
We raise a batch of seedling Carnations every
year, and they arc now the freshest and sweetest
of all garden flowers.

Variegated Kerria. — Tho variegated -
leaved form of the old Japanese Kerria, such a
common shrub against the walls of country
cottages, is really a charming shrub where it
succeeds well in the open, which is not always
the case on heavy soils, as it is of a weaklier
constitution than the type. The other day wc
saw a fine bush of it, over a yard through, in the
Tunbridge Wells Nursery, where it is perfectly
hardy and thrives admirably in the dry, warm
soil there. This bush at the present time is
studded with golden yellow flowers among the
silvery-edged foliage, producing an uncommonly
pretty effect. In unheated conservatories, where
the plants are planted out, this shrub is well
worth a place, as it flowers under glass so much
earlier than out of doors, and there is no risk
of the foliage being injured. There are fine
bushes of it planted out in the temperate house
at Kew.

Everlasting Peas.— Visiting a farmhouse
the other evening I saw, at a long distance off,
in the garden hedgerow, a great mass of colour,
which turned out, on closer inspection, to be a
clump of Everlasting Peas, and the thought
immediately occurred to me what grand subjects
these Peas would be established in some ■wild
places, as from their strong growth, overtopping
weeds, and climbing habit they would lay hold
of any branches left within their reach, and be
quite independent of artificial support. Here
we grow both kinds, the white and the purple,
in the foreground of shrubs, where they form
quite a striking picture in the borders, asso¬
ciated with tall Delphiniums, Helianthus, single
Dahlias, Ac., and afford us great quantities of
flowers for cutting, a purpose for which they
arc well adapted, as they last long in water.
Tho best time in which to divide the plants
with a view to their increase is in spring just
as they begin to start, when any pieces taken

off with a crown and a few roots attached are
almost certain to grow.

Sweet Williams.— These are now gay,
and a very noticeable difference is seen to exist
between the double and single forms. In the
latter we have the perfect flower in shape and
colour ; in the double form confusion—no other
word expresses the difference. The shape and
contrasts are all but lost in the last; the
petals are confused and distorted, but they last
longer, and are, for certain purposes, useful.
Some of the Sweet Williams are extremely
vivid in colour, and others soft and pleasing.
Much may be done by selection.

Grapes shanking.— Apply £ lb. of pul¬
verised saltpetre (nitrate of potash) to each
square yard of the Vine border, and then give
the border a good watering to enable the salt
to penetrate to tho roots of the Vines. This
season a friend came to me in great distress for
my advice, stating that his Grapes had com¬
menced to shank badly at a very early stage of
their growth. I recommended the treatment
iust described. About a fortnight afterwards
he informed me that the dose had effectually
cured the disease, the shanking had stopped
immediately after the application, and the
growth of the Vines had greatly improved.
The shanking was, in fact, a symptom of star¬
vation, the border not containing sufficient
potash to support the crop.

Ranunculus amplexicaulis does not
appear to be free in many gardens. It is a
plant worth a large amount of care, were it _
needed. Under suitable conditions, easily
afforded, it, however, grows and seeds like a
weed. It certainly enjoys lime ; this I never
noted until I heard so many complain of it not
doing well. Both in loam and vegetable soil
mixed with lime it produces its large white
buttercups for several weeks in spring, and the
seed, which I never gather, comes up where it
falls in quantities.

Tropseolum speciosum.—I do not think
it matters so much after all about the character
of the soil in which this most desirable climber ^
is set so long as it is sweet; and as regards
hardiness, I fancy it not only endures our worst
frosts, but is often expected to do duty in situa¬
tions too warm for it. The most important but
simple part of the business of establishing it I
take to be the observance of the proper time
for dividing the roots ; they ought, according to
my experience, to be planted in pots about the
end of the year, just wheu they are pushing, and -
should be newly dug-out tubers ; they should
be allowed to start naturally, plunged in moist
sand in the shelter of a cold frame (no water $
should be given), and in April thev may be set
in their permanent quarters, a cool, half-shady
corner, where winds cannot rend the runners,
being best. In short, a cool situation, timely
planting, and preservation from wet until
growth begins have yielded satisfactory results.

Fuchsias. —Fuchsias attacked by tbrips 1
may be cured by fumigation or by dipping the
plants in or washing them in a solution of one)
pound of soft soap dissolved in two gallons of "
rain water, to which add one quart of Tobacco:
water. Before the above mixture is quite dry,
wash the plants with clean water. Repeat thtfsl
process in a fortnight, as the eggs will not uave"
been destroyed. Three ounces of Gishurst’s^
compound and one gallon of Tobacco watc r is '
also very effective as a wash. *

Matricaria inodora fl.-pi. —This, bnng^
an abundant bloomer, is a most useful plan t to u
grow for cutting from. In growth and foliage,£
too, it is also elegant, the latter resembling that*
of Fennel. The flowers, which are like small,
double, early Chrysanthemums, are pure white,*
and quite free from the objectionable odour in -jj
herited by most of its family. Those w'hc> do$
not know it should add it to the list of th ingav
worth growing.

Digging Strawberry beds.— The sosne^
this is done after the crop is gathered tH. v
better, for the custom of digging them in wi nte^
or spring does far more harm than good ; auo
if unable through press of work to get '.hen
done before the end of September I would p refej
letting them go entirely undisturbed al tl^
root for the year round. Our custom is to ] >Ia.rr>
out of pots such plants as have been fc reet
undqr glass in rows feet apart, and tb?
plants lii.feet apart in_thk row, digging tlv

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

1

July 26, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

241

ground as we proceed, which, if in good con¬
dition, will not need any fresh manure; but
before winter sets in a good coat of partially
decayed manure is spread evenly over the bed,
which acts as a protection to the plants from
severe frost, and works in gradually to the
roots, preparing them for a vigorous start in
spring. This manure is left rough during the
winter, and in spring is raked down fine, all
weeds, stones, &c., being removed as soon as
the growth of young foliage is observed.
About the time the flower-spike3 of the
Strawberries begin to show, a good mulching
of stable litter is worked in between the
rows, that tends to keep the fruit clean and
roots moist, while the rain, in cleansing the litter,
washes down the nutritive properties to the
roots, thereby greatly invigorating them, and
causing the plants to send up strong, bold flower-
stalks, able to carry a full crop. After trying
several other substitutes, I find nothing to equal
stable litter, which at this time of the year, when
it has served the purpose for which it was
intended, may be dug into the soil between the
rows, and the same routine adopted the following
year, after which, as soon as the crop is gathered,
we cut off the plants with a sharp spade, and
insert any kind of late Broccoli or winter
Greens, the soil being forked up between the
rows after the plants get fairly established.
Strawberries thus treated will yield enormous
crops, but after the second year they begin to
fail, and are no longer kept.

The Crown Daisy (Chrysanthemum coro-
nirium), in numerous varieties, is a valuable
plant for the garden, as the flowers are so
durable when cut and placed in water ; they
even, it is said, improve in size for quite a week
after they are cut. There is a great variety of
colour amongst these Crow'n Daisies ; most of
the flowers are seifs, varying from a deep
maroon-crimson or yellow through every shade
to white, while others are tricoloured, and some
are double and semi-double.

Green Grass in London.— It is pleasant
to see how fresh and green the turf always is
near the Houses of Parliament and the Abbey,
also at the end of Downing Street, where there
is a delicious bit of Grass. We could do a good
deal with London gardens if the wasteful rain
of soot could be stopped. Much could be done
now if each man would not enclose his patch of
ground with a high wall, so as to exclude sun
and air and all ixissibility of good gardening.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11711.—Erica hybrida.—Cut back the flowering
•hoots to just below the flowers. When young growths
is the time to Bhift, using good fibrous poat and
plenty of silver sand, potting firmly, and using good
•irainktrc. After potting, keep rather close, watering only
when dry. From the middle of August grow in the open
air in a sunny situation.—J. C. B.

KtrArook. —The Carnation is a very good ono for garden
decoration, but we do not think it is good enough, from a

florist a point of view, to name.- J. IF.—If the vines are

in full the old dead rods may be cut out without
danger.

Names Of plants.— Paddy.—I, Coleus, Mr. G. Simp¬
son; 2, Indeterminable.- H. W .—Gypsophila repens.

We do not name Roses. That can only be correctly done

by some specialist.-Presto.—1, Lycasto Deppei; 2, L.

srornatica ; 3, Epidendrum cochleatum ; 4, A double form

of Anemone fulgens.- Mrs. G .—Rhamnus Frangula.-

H'. J. C. —1, Cystoptoris fragilis ; 2, Erodium sp. ; 3,

Canterbury Bell; 4, Collomia coccinea.- H. A—Dactylis

ekganttesima.- A. C .—Ranunculus Flammula; Crataegus

oioratissima.- C. E. M. F .—Gymnadenia conopeca ;

Orchis maculata ; 2 and 3, Species of Galium ; specimens

Coo poor to name.- Miss R. K .—Certainly a form of

Xtolrpcdium dryopteris.-//. R. G. F .—Syringa Emodi,

white-flowered, not purple.- Mrs. n .—The weed is

F*runel]a vulgaris. It may be destroyed by using Watson’s

sand or cutting out the roots with a knife.-

Efmford .—There are so many stove plants with leaves like
cfee one you send that we cannot name in the absence of
?3o*ers.——N. A. —Zenobia speciosa pulverulenta, white
•xrsder surfaces to leaves ; other shrub was too withered to

,-ientify.-P. P. G.—l, Aquilegia chrysantha ; 2, Sidalcea

t flora; 3, Linaria stricta ; 4, Thalictrum flavum var.

_ TreUnoarren .—Watsonia Meriana coccinea (scarlet),

ifcsrmnchium striatum (yellow).- J. S. E. —Appears to

jm Ash ; but we cannot identify without fuller material.

_ ft. B. S .—It is impossible to name the weed without

flowers or fruit. It is one of tho numerous Umbelli-

Vs-* family.- Iolanthe.— 1, Adiantum hispidulum ; 2,

lorna rotundifolia; 3, Pteris cretica ; 4, Asplenium

■■rs^trifermn.- Mrs. Warrington. —1, Lycium barbarum ;

__ Coccoloba platyclada; 3, Send mature fronds; 4,

hafttata.- G. A. H .—Galega officinalis alba.-

,-v^-ecooef.—We do not name varieties of the Rose.-

£ fujginaon .—Melilqjbtis"X)fficinalis.- Mtherham .—

Strawberries were all gnashed tk a near

< 1, : Wistaria sine!l|ilJ^lfa>rotft|^aim_fascicu-

laris ; 3, Jasminum gracile ; 4, Cassia corymbosa.-1

E. II. C. Hardy.—I, Scabiosa columbaria; 2, Alstroemeria

aurantiaca.- R. S. D.— 1, Spirsea Aruncus; 2, Anchusa

sempervirens ; 3, Spirasa arisefolia.—— W. J. V.—l, Lastrea
dilatata; 2, Athyrium fllix-fcemina ;3, Aspidium aculeatum ;

4, Lastrea Filix-mas.- W. J. C. —1, Appears to be Lastrea

cristata ; 2, Mentha rotundifolia; 3, Cystoptoris dentata;

4, Erodium rotundifolium.- South Devon. —The Lily

flower had fallen in pieces when we received it. Have
you another flower to send? The Iris seems to be
I. sibirica, G. F. Slattery. —Galega officinalis alba.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.— AU communications
for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the. auery
answered. When more than one nxiery is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, \t is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when pood
specimens are sent. We do not u ndertake to name varieties
of floristst flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas,
as these can only be correctly named, by a specialist who
has the means of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to name should always
accompany the parcel.

11773. — Planting Strawberries. — I have a
quantity of last years runners in a nursery bed which
have fruited remarkably well, and which I propose plant¬
ing out permanently as soon as they have finished fruit¬
ing. Shall I be wise in doing so ?— Red Rose.

11774.—Moles.—I am much annoyed by theso animals
in my garden, and it is apparently impossible to catch
them in the usual traps, owing to the lightness of the soil.
Can any reader suggest an effectual way of destroying
them?— West Riding.

11775.—Fly in Celery.— My Celery is infested with a
small white grub which works between the leaves, turning
them a whitish colour. It was the same last year, and I
tried handpicking. I also watered with lime-water and
dusted with flour of sulphur, but with very poor results.
Any information as to what will be the best thing I can do
will oblige.—C elery.

11770.—Palms turning yellow.—I have a Palm
(Latania), about 10 feet in height by 8 feet diameter, the
leaves of which are turning yellow and spotty. Could
someone furnish a remedy, and suggest tho best treatment
of large Palms?—A. M.

11777.—Treatment of the Hedychium.— Would
anyone tell us the treatment of the Hedychium ? Whon
fine and healthy it is such a noblo plant both on leaf and
flower ; but wo have tried drenching it with water, which
did not do, and then starving it of moisture, which seems
worse, and they are only small spindly things, about 2 feet
high, and several turning yellow in the leaves. We have
them both in large pots and in a tub (four or five
together), but none are growing freely or kindly.—
Amateur.

11778.— Yarrow for lawns.-1 have a lawn under
my charge which during dry weather was very much
scorched up except where some Yarrow is growing ; that
has kept beautifully green all the time. My employer
wishes to sow seed' of Yarrow all over the lawn, but is
unable to get it. Could any reader inform me where it
could be bought, or give any other information on the
subject?— A Constant Reader.

11779.—Strawberries not fruiting.— Will some
reader kindly tell me tho cause of my Strawberry plants
not fruiting? I have about one hundred fine healthy
plants arranged by the side of a path about 3 feet from a
wall on the south side. They have been planted throe

cars, and we get scarcely any fruit. Last year we only

ad about a quart, and this season I don’t supposo we
shall have more than a gallon. The plants are very
vigorous, and fully three-fourths of them show no signs of
fruit. I thought perhaps there was too much foliage, and
that I had made the ground too strong, so this year I did
not put any manure, and still the plants are about the
same.—W. G.

11780.— Garden and wild flowers.— Will some
practical correspondent say if the common field Daisy
does not become the garden Daisy under process of culti¬
vation and propagation, and the Daisy become the Mar¬
guerite? Also, if most of our garden flowere have not bocn
produced from tho wild flowers originally ?—N. O. Danby.

11781.— Plants for front garden.— Our house is in
the suburbs, but when the wind is in one certain quarter
we get the stnokc from two blacksmiths’ shops. The house
stands 5 yards from the road, and there is a garden in front
which is Grass, with two round beds cut in the turf, one
on either side of the door. There is also a border about
3 feet round the house. What would grow in such a
position so as to make it look nice tho whole season ? There
are six tall trees next to the road, and the soil is very
heavy.— Anxious Amateur.

11782.—Hydrangeas not blooming.—l have a
tine plant, with about ten strong stems, looks healthy and
well, is two or three years old, and in a greenhouse'; will
someone kindly inform me how to treat it to induce it to
flower ?—Anxious.

11783.— Hoya carnosa.— I have a Hoya carnosa in my
hothouse; will any reader tell me the reason why the buds
keep falling off one by one, and what kind of soil it should
be grown in, and its treatment?—L ousipina.

11784.—Rosebuds not opening.—I have in a cool
greenhouse two Rose trees; will any reader tell me the
reason why they get bud-bound ?— Lousifina.

11785.— Grapes shrivelling.— I have ten Vines,
which I tend myself. On the 1st of November I take them
down from the wires and thrust them out into the cold,

open all doors, windows, and ventilators. End of
December, I prune them; January, 1 throw in hogsheads
of liquid manure, which run from my Btablcs into tanks,
and after that equal quantity of water; 1st of Feb¬
ruary I close doors, windows, and ventilators, and replace
the rods on the wires and lire my hot water apparatus;
1st March I repeat the liquid manure and water ; 1st of
April, disbud, syringe twice a-day ; middle of April, open
windows and ventilators at 9 a.m., closing them at 2.30;
May, blossoming time, cease tho syringing, topping, and
disbudding where necessary ; middle of May, renew the
syringing. From tho 1st of February right on, all the
evaporators in the hot-water pipes constantly filled with
water. June, syringe twice a-day, thin out shoots, throw
water on the floor in plenteous quantities with now and
then a few buckets of liquid manure. The most tedious
process is the thinning. This I begin as soon as the Grapes
are the size of very Bmall Peas, and keep on thinning rijjht
through June. This is the most irksome, uninteresting
part of the work, and with such a magnificent crop is
uitc a task. I do not close ventilators and windows in
une until 4 p.m. Having done all this and rewarded by
healthy Vines and a heavy crop of Grapes, I am annoyed
at finding at this stage of growth, iust prev ious to colour¬
ing, that some of the Grapes shrivel’and arc discoloured and
rot, chiefly on the tops of the branches. Will someone
tell me how this is and give rexnody ?—J. M. H.

11786.—Roses in a Peach house.—I have a large
lean-to Peach house, not heated, and have planted a row
of Standard Roses along tho lower side, hoping to have
early Roses, but they have been more covered with mil¬
dew, insects, and blight than those out of doors, and my
gardener says they are the cause of the Peach trees
suffering from insects and their fruit failing. Can this be
the case, and ought I to remove the Roses ?—C. L. H.

11787.—Cocoanut fibre and Mushrooms.— in
an old horticultural paper I have by me, speaking of Cocoa-
nut fibre refuse, it says, “for producing Mushrooms
especially, it is simply marvellous in its effects.” Will any
reader inform me if they have had any experience of its use
in the culture of Mushrooms, and if so, how is it used ?
—A Constant Reader.

11788.—Transplanting a large Thorn tree.—

Would some of your correspondents give me advice as to
the transplanting of a Thorn tree about 10 feet high ? It
is in the way of a fine Fir tree, and I wish to remove it.
How should I proceed, and at what time ? I may state
that the Thorn was shifted to where it now’ stands about
three years ago. It is a standard, and about 71 inches in
circumference of stem 4 feet from ground.— B.

11789.—Propagating Petunias.—I haveaBplendid
collection from seeds sown in early spring. How must I
propagate them so as to retain a collection of the best
kinds?—J. D. L.

11790.— Wintering Lobelias.— How must 1 keep
these over the winter?—J. D. L.

11791.— Hard wooded plants from seed.— Will
some reader of Gardening give simple instructions for
raising plants from seed of Camellia japonica, Azalea
indica, and Rhododendrons? Any information will be
gratefully appreciated.—L. A. H.

11792.—Blight on Apple trees.— My Apple trees
are all covered over with some white soft stuff which I am
told is American blight. I have tried syringing with
soapy water and paraffin and w’ater; then I got pure
paraffin and rubbed it in with a small brush, but I found
that burned the parts it touched. Then I went over the
trees w’ith a dry brush and rubbed off all I could, but all
to no purpose. What can I do ?—J. W.

11793.— Campanula muralis.— Is there a white
variety of this Campanula, and where can it be obtained ?
I have tried a number of seedsmen for the blue kind, and
they know nothing of it.—J. C. Turner.

NOTES ON GARDEN INSECTS.

Tiie American blight should never be
allowed to establish itself on Apple trees, as it
has been in some places, for it is then very diffi¬
cult to eradicate it. As soon as any are noticed
on a tree, the part infested should be well
scrubbed with a hard brush and one of the
following mixtures : 1 pint of ammoniacal liquor
and 2 parts of water ; Tobacco water (quarter
pound of Tobacco soaked in 1 gallon of water);
a wineglassful of petroleum oil to 1 gallon of
water, add a little soft soap to make the liquids
mix better, or common train or fish oil. Brush¬
ing the insects with a small brush dipped in
turpentine or spirits of wine kills them at once.

The Carrot fly may be prevented from
laying its eggs on the Carrots by tho means
above mentioned. As a protection against the
Carrot fly the earth round the roots should be
kept as firm as possible, and when thinning
them the first time it should be done so
thoroughly that the operation need not be
repeated, keeping the crop in vigorous growth
by suitable manures and waterings.

The Onion fly is a great pest in many
laces. Some persons have found that by
eeping the roots well earthed up, so that the
fly cannot get at them to lay their eggs, is a
very sure preventive. In thinning the crop
great care should be taken to disturb the soil
as little as possible for the same reason ;
sowing sand, which has been soaked in petro¬
leum, over the beds, or watering them with
1 pint of petroleum mixed with 2 gallons of
water, has j^eenjfoujnd very .useful, iq -keeping
the flies:away. When once-in Onion is in-
feate(jL,j ^8, d.jne but to

242

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[July 26, 1884.

remove it carefully and burn it. This is best
done by digging it up with a trowel, for if any
of the gruDs are left in the ground, or are
allowed to drop out of the bulb, they will pro¬
bably find their way to other roots. If this
method is properly carried out the next brood
of flies will be very much diminished in
numbers.

Leather Jackets, the grubs of the daddy¬
longlegs or crane fly, appear to be numerous and
destructive this year ; they live on the roots of
Grasses and various other plants, causing them
to wither and die. They may be caught by
burying, about an inch from the surface near
the roots of plants, small pieces of Potatoes,
Turnips, &c., with a small stick or skewer
attached to them to show where they are ; they
should be examined every morning, and any
grubs found sticking to them destroyed. Wire-
worms may be trapped in the same manner ;
these grubs often come to the surface at night,
and may then be killed by rolling the ground.
Trenches 6 inches wide and with upright sides
the same height are very useful for catching the
grubs ; in their nocturnal rambles they fall into
these pitfalls and cannot escape. When plants
wither and fade without any apparent reason,
an examination should always be made of the
earth round their roots, when grubs or cater¬
pillars will generally be found attacking them.

Earwigs late in the season often prove
annoying ; hanging pieces of Reed or any
hollow stem (those of the Sunflower being
rather sweet are particularly useful) on plants
and in places where they abound is as good a
means as any of catching them ; they are sure
to creep into them.

Red spider may generally be kept in check
bv affording a proper amount of moisture to the
plants likely to be attacked. Sulphur is parti¬
cularly obnoxious to it ; any insecticide containing
it is useful. The following mixture will be found
very efficacious in destroying it: boil in 2 gallons
of water half a pound of flower of sulphur and
1 pound of fresh lime, add three-quarters of a
pound of soft soap, and, before using, 1 £ gallons
more water. G. S. S.

BEES.

Electing: brood. —Would someone be kind
enough to explain to me why my bees are de¬
stroying their young brood ? At the commence¬
ment of the season I had two stocks in straw
hives. One swarmed on June the 10th, the
other on the 12th, and the first hive sent out
another swarm on the 20th, and the Becond hive
did the same on the 26th, so I have now six
hives; but I noticed on the 4th of July that
the first swarm I had out was clustering all
under the stand the same as if they had just
swarmed. I thought they might have got too
strong, and had not got room in the hive, so I
immediately put a crate on the top with sec¬
tions. They seemed to take to th'e sections at
once; but they still clustered outside, and re¬
mained so till July the 6th, when I noticed that
they were bringing out the young brood all
dead. They are now all gone back into the hive.
Have the brood died through neglect or are they
killing them, and what is the cause ? If some
one would answer this they would greatly oblige
—Novice. [Turning out brood is usually a sign
of starvation, insufficient food being obtained
for comb building and feeding the larvae.
Otherwise the brood may have become chilled.
But probably it was drone brood the bees were
ejecting from the hive. When weather at any
time is unfavourable to honey gathering drones
will be removed in all stages of growth—
hatched and in embryo.—S. S. G.]

BIRDS.

Canary egg-bound.— Can any correspondent in- I
form me what is the best thing to do when a canary 1
Ixjcomes egg-bound ? . My canary laid three eggs, but with ,
the fourth became egg-bound and died.—T. B.

Canaries not hatching their eggs.— Last March
I put two young canaries up to breed, and since then they
have had five nests. By some moans or other half the
egs** of each nest have got broken, and the remainder have
failed to hatch, although the hen has set very close. The
cago they are in is quite a new one. Can anyone tell mo
the reason of failure, as before this I have always
succeeded? There have always been partly-formed birds
in the eggs.— W. E. Ssvbtt.

Insects In Canaries.-=Can any reader .infom
of the best way of keeping/Canary bird- freeJibm the
insects which torment thdp gXL-w! vk id irritati

the skin?—C astl* MadocX—X

AQUARIA.

Management of an aquarium.—I

have started an aquarium, and should be very

C teful for some help. I have a glass bell
ding 8 gallons, with four roots of weeds in
it: Duckweed, a Lily something like an Arum,
one that I was told is a soldier pla>.t (is this
Vallisneria spiralis?), and a small root like a
Water Lily, that grow s on the top of the water.
I have six small gold fish, a newt, and six
scavenger snails. I had two tadpoles, but
cannot find them, so suppose the newt has
eaten them. At first I changed the water fre¬
quently, but found a white growth came on the
nsh. I was told to wash them in sea water
and sponge it off, which I did, and now they
seem healthy. They tell me the growth came
on the fish from too much lime in the water,
and that I must not change it often. Will
some reader kindly tell me now often it would
be necessary to change it; and will it hurt the
fish if I give them thread-worm every day ?
They are always ready for it, and take it from
my fingers. What can I do to get rid of the
lime before I change the water ? When I can¬
not get threadworm what can I give them?
Will they eat gentles ?—are they good for them ?
—Sydney.

Marine aquarium.—I have Just started a marine
aquarium ; will someone oblige by answering the following
queries? My aquarium is a bell glass, 18 inches dia¬
meter ; will sea Anemones and small fish, as well as shell¬
fish, do well together? Do the fish require any feeding?
If so, what? How often should water be changed or added
to ? Do prawns succeed in an aquarium ?— 1 Taniurst.

POULTRY.

Cross-bred fowls.— “C. C. T.”—It is im¬
possible to tell with any degree of accuracy the
colour which the plumage of cross-bred chickens
will assume when fully feathered. But the
cross which you mention—viz., a white Dork¬
ing cock with light Brahma hens—will produce
almost, if not Quite, white birds, and which will
look exceedingly nice on a meadow or orchard,
which you say you possess. Where, however,
Brahma-Dorking8 are kept in a yard or small
run it will be found much better to breed from
the dark varieties on both sides. You will find
the first-mentioned cross a very good one for
producing fair all-round birds, both for table
and laying, being very hardy and good mothers
and sitters. In buying the stock birds, size
need be the only consideration, and all fancy
points can be dispensed with. From your
query we should imagine you intend com¬
mencing to breed at once. It would be far
better to wait until next year ; and, by purchas¬
ing a few pullets this coming autumn, commence
to hatch about the following February. This
would prove more profitable, as late-hatched
birds are not to be compared with early-hatched
ones in this respect. Concerning the hen you
have which constantly lays soft eggs, the only
remedy is to give powdered chalk or bone-dust
in the soft food. Some hens are given to this
fault, although surrounded with unlimited
quantities of old lime and other egg-forming
material, as in your case. They seem to have
no natural inclination to partake of lime of any
sort. It is very annoying, not only on account
of the loss of the eggs, which are generally
broken in the nest, but they make the nests so
dirty, the straw requiring to be constantly
changed, or the feathers of the other hens will
become glued to the eggs, causing breakage.—
Andalusian.

Chicken. — Early-hatched broods should
now be so far advanced as to allow the good
to be distinguished from the bad. It is very
important to weed out all that have not the
appearance of turning out well. This is an easy
task to an experienced hand, but to amateurs it
is difficult; and it is very mortifying for A to
find B taking all the honours at local shows
with a bird which the former disposed of for a
song as worthless. But experience must be
bought, and the gratifying results which are
obtained by “ weeding out ” are soon apparent
in the increased size and stamina of those that
remain. Overcrowding is the bane to successful
chicken rearing. A great mistake is made in
allowing so many cockerels to remain in the
run. These ravenous monsters prowl about,
never satisfied, and deprive the promising
pullets of their proper share of food and accom¬
modation. Rill or sell off as quickly as possible.

Old birds also want looking over. Remember
that after two years a hen ceases to pay her
footing as a layer.— Andalusian.

Fowls moulting:. — “ Amateur.” — We
should most decidedly say that the dealer from
whom you bought your Hamburghs deceived
you, as no birds are yet moulting, and he
evidently put this as an excuse for their shabby
plumage. August is generally the earliest
month for fowls to commence moulting. A
little extra care and attention are well bestowed
on them during this operation. Good food with
a fair proportion of stimulants, such as spiced
condiments (Thorley’s Cattle Food is as good as
any) mixed with the meal, say a tablespoonful
to every six fowls, will aid them to put on their
new plumage. Sulphate of iron also in their
drinking water will do good. Extra cleanliness
in the roosting-house should be observed, and a
good whitewashing of the interior and fittings
will destroy vermm and give the birds a fair
start. If it is desired to moult any particular
specimen quicklv for show purposes, if a hen,
let her sit for a few weeks on dummy eggs.—
Andalusian.

Plumage of fowls.—Will “ M. J. M state the exact
plumage of “Plymouth Rocks,” both cock and hen?—

HOUSEHOLD.

Ices.—As the making of the above is very
simple I am often surprised that residents in
country places, and far remote from a convenient
confectioner, should not more generally adopt
the making of ice creams and ice puddings. The
cost is trifling, considering that tne greater part
of country families have large gardens and
abundance of fruit. And again, 1 really know
nothing more delicious or refreshing on a hot
day (at lunch, dinner, or otherwise) than a
genuine home-made ice pudding or a water ice.
Ices are especially welcome to any morning
callers after a long drive through a dusty country
road. A helping of ice cream, served on a
crystal ice plate, with finger biscuits or a piece
of home-made sponge-cake, is always welcome.

I think in most kitchens is to be found a freezing
pot, which is seldom ever used, and I am
inclined to think the reason for this is that many
people have an idea that making ices is quite
beyond them. This is wrong. The process of
making ices is not nearly so troublesome, nor
is the same experience required, as in making a
good pudding. Common (or made for profit)
ice creams are made with eggs, sugar, milk,
flavouring, and thickening. But in the
making of good ices or ice puddings, good sweet
cream, eggs, sugar, and flavouring are used, or
half milk and half cream, and also fruit, cut up
or otherwise. The ices and puddings are named,
according to what fruit or flavour is added.
The tools required are a freezer, a tub or wooden
pail, and a spatula. A pewter freezer is best.
The tub or pail should l)e of oak or strong wood
well seasoned, and the size according to the
size of freezer. To make common ices, have
four fresh eggs well beat up, add to the eggs a
pint and a half of new milk, and a quarter of
a pound of pounded sugar. Put all into a clean
saucepan. Put the pan on to a slow, clear fire,
and stir continually one way till it gets thick,
but it must on no account boil or it will curdle.
Turn this cuBtard into a basin to stand till quite
cold, then put into the freezing pot and place it in
the tub or pail. Now fill up the space between
the freezer and the tub with pieces of ice and
coarse salt mixed, until within two inches of
the top of the freezer. Then take hold of the
handle and commence to turn the freezer round.
In the course of ten minutes the custard will
begin to adhere to the sides of the freezer.
Take off the cover, and scrape all from off the
sides, and place in the bottom ; do this as
quickly as possible, so that the lid may not be
left off long. Put on the lid, and again turn it
round very quickly for some minutes, and with
the spatula scrape from the sides as before ;
this is to be repeated every little while until
the whole is frozen into a stiff mass. The pro¬
cess is then finished, and the ice is ready for the
table. The freezer must be kept in the ice
until the whole is used up; keep closely covered.
—M. C.

8ugar or treacle beer.—Will someone kindly givo
me a receipt for sucar or treacle beer, and also tell mo if
leiifl Hof-i mk! * little mult should ha used ann fermented
with brewer's yeast, and about what the quantity to the
gallon! Q |-|^ pp | Q p,J

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GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

AUGUST 2, 1884.

No. 282. .

< 1

FRUIT.

OLD APPLE TREE AT TACHBROOK.
The little Warwickshire village of Tachbrook
is famous for the longevity of its inhabitants,
and this quality in its climate or soil seems to
extend to the vegetable kingdom, judging by
two old Reinette du Canada Apple trees which
grow under the shelter of a sunny south wall
at Tachbrook Mallory. The seven-gabled,
half-timbered house, with its huge brick chimney
stacks and Oak staircase and panelled rooms,
was built in 1613; and tradition says that the
two Apple trees were planted soon after. Be
that as it may, their age is very considerable,
as the great gnarled stems writhing along the
jxund, like hoary sea serpents, testify. But
they are enjoying as healthy and vigorous
an old age as some of their human fellow
parishioners. The trees are trained espalier
fashion round the angles of two square beds in

which are beginning to show red streaks on
their clear green skins, and the old stems are
putting forth vigorous young shoots in all direc¬
tions, and look as if another hundred Mays
might still see their pink and white buds open¬
ing to the spring sun. Rose G. Kingsley.

ORCHARD HOUSES.

Houses constructed for the purpose of growing
fruit trees in pots are not quite so popular as
they were, say, fifteen years ago. The late
Mr. Thomas Rivers, of Sawbridgeworth, then
and for years previous to that date, both by
precept and example, earnestly advocated the
culture of Peaches and Nectarines in pots under
glass ; he grew them well, and, moreover, raised
many good and distinct varieties from seeds.
For more than twenty years I have been grow¬
ing Peaches and Nectarines in pots. I have
also had much experience with planted-out
trees, and I am now decidedly in favour of

rotten stable manure. I like to pot early in the
season, say in November or early in December.
The roots keep on growing all through the
winter when the temperature is not too low for
them. The trees thus become well established,
and start strongly into growth the following
season. The yearling or “ maiden ” trees when
well grown the previous season have usually one
very strong central growth, as thick as a man’s
finger at tho base, furnished from that point
upwards with numerous side growths.

Form of true. —In order to form a bush tree
about two-thirds of the main stem must be cut
away and the lateral growths cut back con¬
siderably. A pyramid is formed by cutting
one-third from the main stem, and pruning
back the laterals near the top to within an inch
or two of the stem. Those near the base should
be left from 6 inches to 9 inches long, and the
intermediate laterals should be cut back closer
at the top, leaving them longer towards the
base, in order to form a pyramid to start with.

the kitchen garden, and make a bower 30 feet I
long of fresh green foliage and luxuriant
blossom over the path which divides them.
The farther branch or stem of the tree, which
Mr. Parsons has chosen to immortalise, is 40
feet in length from the trunk ; the nearer one
20 feet ; the trunk is 6 feet round at the base,
two 3 tems are 3 feet 6 inches in circumfer-
above where they divide, and the
of the upright fruit-bearing branches is
round. The stems of the second tree
about the same girth, and are respectively
feet and 30 feet in length. The blossoms of
old trees are unusually large, and very
The fruit is very large, the skin green,
white stripes, the flesh perfectly tran-
when cooked, of a pale greenish colour,
has a very rich flavour; in fact it is,
exception, the most delicious Apple I
for culinary purposes.

the garden first came into my keeping
kpple trees were overgrown with Moss
and were said only to bear fruit
Tv third or fourth year. I had them care-
scraped and washed, and have been repaid
“jhseellent and increasing crops every autumn
fW'iree years in succession.

magnificent show of blossom in May this
}'*** has entirely fulfilled., its promise. -Both
trae * are now loaded wiifjh masses of Applets,

Di g itize a by Q VIV

OLD ArPLE TREE AT TACHBROOK.

growing tho trees in both ways. Plantcd-
out trees trained to a trellis produce very
fine fruits with less trouble than in pots,
but, on the other hand, the culture of
trees in pots is highly interesting, and
as far as the quality of tho fruit is con¬
cerned it can be grown in pots good enough
for the best exhibitions. In the case of ama¬
teurs with spare time on their hands, the culture
of fruit trees in pots may not only be made a
delightful pastime, but also a profitable occupa¬
tion. Any form of house, lean-to or span-roofed,
is adapted for their culture; the principal
point in connection therewith is to have the
glass well exposed to the sun, and the trees as
near it as they can be conveniently placed.
Trees can be purchased in pots to start with,
and healthy trees two or three years old are the
most likely to do well. A two-year-old tree
will most Likely be thickly studded with fruit
buds, and will probably bear a dozen or more
fruits the following season. For those blessed
with patience, trees one year from the
bud can be purchased much cheaper thau
trained trees. They will require 10-inch and
11 -inch pots to start with ; the pots must be
well drained, and the compost, which should
consist of good yellow loam, ought to be well
rammed in round the roots. Some crushed bones
may be added to the ioanj, and a fourth part of

These young trees ought not to be forced o
the buds will not start evenly. They will not
of course, bear fruit the first year, but by care¬
ful pinching and training, with the view of
obtaining fruit-bearing wood, they will produco
fruit the second season, and fruit, too, of most
excellent quality. By the end of the first
season the pots will be packed quite full of
roots, and unless supplied with rich surface
dressings the fruit cannot be expected to be
first-rate. We place a handful or two of the
dressing on the surface, and it is washed down
to the roots by the waterings. The best
material is very short stable manure, loam, and
malt dust or kiln dust in equal proportions.
This mixture, if thrown together in a small
heap, will soon heat very much, and to prevent
injury from over-heating it must be turned
over daily ; in about a fortnight it will be ready
for use. The trees will need three or four
dressings during the time when the fruit is
growing. At the end of the second season it
will be necessary to repot the trees into larger
pots. Those in 10-inch and 11-inch pots may
be shifted into 12-inch and 13-inch ones. A
little of the old exhausted compost should bo
picked out from amongst the roots, and the
new soil should be r&mmed jLn firmly to fill its
place, and also round the sides of the pots.
The trues: should be kept under glasw until well

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

244

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[.A UGU8T 2, 1884.

established in their new pots, when they may
be removed out of doors, or they may be kept
in the house if required for any other purpose.

Insect pests. —-The most troublesome of these
is the Peach aphis, which causes “ curl ” in the
leaves early in the season, but a good cultivator
will not allow this pest to increase to such an
extent as to injure the leaves. The best way
is to fumigate the trees well before they get
into blossom. When that is done they often
remain clean through the season. Ked spider is
also very fond of the leaves, and attacks them
in force as soon as they are well developed ; but
as the trees delight in copious drenchings with
the garden engine, this easily keeps the spider
off them. Brown scale, which fastens itself to
the old and young wood as limpets attach them¬
selves to rocks, can only be removed by
scrubbing it off and washing the parts where it
has been with soapy water, an operation which
should be performed during the winter months.

Pot culture admits of a large number of
distinct varieties both of Peaches and Nec¬
tarines to be grown in a small space. Nearly
all the varieties of Nectarines raised at Saw-
bridgcworth may be grown with advantage ;
indeed, we have discarded all the old sorts, and
substituted the Sawbridgeworth seedlings.
Lord Napier, which is not a seedling itself, but
a sport from the Early Albert Peach, is the
best early Nectarine in existence. Stanwick
Elrugc and Pine-apple added to it form a trio
that will hardly be beaten, unless Humboldt, a
seedling from Pine-apple, displaces that fine
variety, being larger. Victoria is also distinct,
and exquisite in flavour when well exposed to
the sun in ripening. Of Peaches, Hale’s Early,
Early Grosse Mignonne, Gross Mignonne,
Bellegarde, and Noblesse are not easily sur¬
passed. Goshawk, raised at Sawbridgeworth,
is a grand Peach. Of the very early sorts,
Early Rivers is the variety that succeeds best
with us, but its fault of producing so many fruits
with split stones is a serious one. I. T.

Early Pears. —Of really good varieties of
early Pears there are but few. When I say
good, I mean not only as regards quality of
flesh, but keeping qualities also, because what
is the use of a Pear if it will not continue a
week or a fortnight in good condition after it is
first ripe ? And, unfortunately, none of the very
early varieties possess that property, not even
•when gathered from the trees at varying in¬
tervals. Summer Doyenne, Citron des Carmes,
and Belle de Bruxelles decay almost before they
are eatable, and Jargonelle is but little better,
yet it is a little, as by gathering at intervals of
a few days the season of use can be lengthened.
Williams’ Bon Chretien is the first early
variety of any value in this respect, as it will
keep with care for a fortnight after it is fully
ripe ; but the best of all, I think, is Beurr£ de
l’Assomption ; it comes into season simultane¬
ously with Williams’ Bon Chretien, but keeps in
a cool place for about a month after coming into
use, and is always of superb quality, though it
lacks the rich aroma of the Bon Chretien.
These two kinds I consider are the only very
early Pears that are worth growing, as it surely
is better to wait a week or two longer and
have good fruit than to risk the disappoint¬
ment consequent on having it earlier and worth¬
less.—W.

Watering fruit trees.— It is not every
place where time can be spared for this work,
or where facilities exist for doing it, but where
it can be carried out it should be during a dry
period. Fruit is not much drag on trees up to
a certain time, but w'hen the stones or pips, as
the case may be, are forming, then comes the
pull, the seed being a heavy tax on the energies
of most plants, many of which are often much
distressed in bearing and perfecting that which,
under natural laws, is intended to increase or
perpetuate the different kinds, and trees seem
to throw their whole energies into the work.
Watering, however, is of little use without a
mulching ; indeed, I am of opinion that it often
does more harm than good, by washing the
surface of the ground and causing it to crack,
which not only lets in the air, but opens a ready
escape for any moisture within. The best plan
with trees that are^t$£ be watered--is to draw a
little of the soil <4way fwwr. ^ip-is|cn> outwards
^otUjd them,' so Ife td fcji p Sfiulltdike edge,

inside of which the mulching should be put, and
when water is given it will be confined there till
it soaks away down to all the roots, which wall
have the full benefit, as with the mulching it
is impossible for much of it to evaporate in the
w r ay it otherwise would do. For Apples and
Pears liquid manure is a great help, ana at this
early stage they will take it rather strong
without the least risk of injuriously affecting
the fruit. Dryness is a frequent cause of red
spider on Peaches, and any trees that suffer
must of necessity have great difficulty in
forming and plumping their buds. A good
soaking now will assist them greatly in doing
this, and may be the means of enabling them to
produce and bear fruit next year. Trees on
walls are so screened from rain that they
hardly ever get enough to w r ash their leaves.
This should be done by giving a good drenching
from the garden engine, as the foliage being
hard now r will stand W’ater driven against it
with force.—S.

Autumnal Raspberries, or kinds that
fruit from this time until frost stops them, are
hardly so well known as they deserve to be.
For dessert they make a welcome change, and
for culinary purposes Raspberries can hardly be
in fruit at the w r rong time, as they impart an
agreeable flavour to almost any kind of fruit
with which they are mixed. All kinds of Rasp¬
berries delight in rich, moist soil, but in
light, poor ground good supplies of manure and
heavy top-dressings must be resorted to. In
order to get the best autumn supply, the old
canes should be cut down close to the ground in
spring ; they will then come into bearing after
the summer kinds are over. Belle de Fontenay
and October Red and Yellow are good sorts,
but where birds are plentiful it is necessary to
net them up securely, or they will be taken as
fast as they can ripen.—G.

Early dessert Apples. —Very early kinds
of dessert Apples are closely related to early I
Pears in respect of bad keeping properties, and,
therefore, but few should be grown. I should
say about tw r o kinds are ample, and these
should be Devonshire Quarrenden and Irish
Peach ; both these kinds will keep in fair con¬
dition for a month after coming into use, but
Early Harvest and Early Julien go “ sleepy”
almost as soon as they are eatable. The next
best to succeed the two first named kinds are
Margaret, Kerry Pippin, and Summer Golden
Pippin.

11723.—Neglected Grape Vines.—
When a vinery has been neglected, and all the
young wood has been allowed to ramble over
the house, it will certainly be too much
crowded ; but it is injurious to thin it out too
much all at once. A portion of the weak
growths on which there is no fruit should be
cut out entirely, and those bearing fruit should
be stopped by pinching the growths back to two
leaves beyond the bunches. There ought to be
at least 2 feet 6 inches between the main stems,
and about IS inches between the lateral growths.
None of the young growths ought to become
entangled with each other.—J. D. E.

11702.—Fruitless Strawberry plants.
—You do not say at what time of year the
plants were set out. If they were planted by
September, and were good strong runners, they
ought to have bloomed ; but it planted later
they cannot be depended to give fruit, unless
in the case of strong clumps, which, having
completed their growth, may be moved when at
rest. All that you can do is to let them remain,
cutting off all runners, and you will then see
whether they are naturally sterile.—J. C. B.

11769.— Strawberry runners.— The first runners
are the best, because they make good large fruiting

K " mts by autumn if planted on well-prepared ground.

e late-formed runners are only of use to plant in the
autumn or following spring to fruit the next year. It is a
good plan to lay them in pots or in pieces of* turf, 60 that
they do not suffer in transplanting.—J. C. B.

-The first runners on the vino arc usually the

strongest and the best, but the others will make good
fruiting plants.—J. D. E.

11763.— Vine in pot.— The Black Hamburg Grape is
the best variety to grow in a pot for a small greenhouse.
A pot 11 or 12 inches diameter inside measure would be
large enough. The vines must be well grown the previous
year.—J. D. E.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

The blue Passion Flower.— Pasaiflora
coerulca is now flowering quite freely on sunny
walls, and some of its long trailing shoots have
been allowed to ramble untrained over some low
growing Cotoneasters, so that the flowers are
quite near the eye. It is quite hardy on dry
soils near the sea, and in many places it fruits
profusely, each fruit being the size of a
hen’s egg, and of a soft, golden tint. When
seen in quantity dangling amongst the dark t
foliage, these fruits are even more conspicuous
and ornamental than the blossoms which pre¬
ceded them. I saw a plant of this Passion :
Flower the other day over which Tropfeolum t
speciosum had hung its flaming wreaths of
scarlet, and the effect was very pleasing, the a
effect being heightened by a large clump of a
snow-white Phlox growing near at hand.
Wherever graccful-habited climbing plants are
admired this blue Passion Fower should have a
place on a bit of sunny wall.—F.

Lavatera trimestris— This and M&lope
trifida are two of the brightest annuals we know
in the Mallow family. The first grows from
2 feet to 3 feet high, and bears large Madlow- *
like blossoms of a pale rosy purple pencilled
with a deeper colour. The Malope is similar,
but dwarfer, and the best variety of it is grandi-
flora, which has much larger flowers than the

Lavatera trimestris.

type, the colour being rich rosy crimson with j?
darker veins, while in the variety alba the*
flowers are white. Both are hardy annuals and ^
repay good culture, as they last so long in j
bloom and are so showy.

Polygonum sachalinense.— This giant
Knotweed is now coming into flower with us,
and is much admired for its stately habit, nobh
leafage, and profusion of white Spira?a-lik«
blossoms. When well grown in deep, rich soil
it attains a height of 10 feet or more, and a mas.
of its graceful wand-like stems springing fron
the mossy turf forms a noble object. The plan
is not often seen in gardens, not nearly so oftei
as is P. Sieboldi, but it is w*ell worth lookin
after by those who admire large-leaved plant
of graceful habit. I saw its stout, Asparagus
like shoots spearing up quite abundantly in V
Siebold’s old nursery at Leyden last spring, E
that there can be no great difficulty in obfcainir.
the plant. Grouped along w ith the giant leav*
of Gunnera scabra and w r ith hardy Bamboos, 4
with Arundo Donax, this plant would be mot
effective on moist lawms or in sheltered sunxi
glades near to pond or brook margins.—K.

Sedum spectabil©.—This is too easy
grow to be duly valued. Were it a shove
greenhouse plant it would be prized as one (
the l>est among them, if not for its beaut?
certainly % reason idf the long time it continu 1

m’oiy 0 t«SStTS?, r^n I>eir! TK< ir J h & h \ y J

fruit. B^t to dig them up and throw them awa'v.- ! a alike suitable for herbaceous horded

lay!*panting, and b^

I

August 2, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

245

ding out. For the latter purpose I consider it
quite indispensable, particularly for intermixing
with plants that flower early in the season, and
that get * ‘ weedy ” looking about this time,
when the Sedum is in full glory, and which
continues so for at least a month, sometimes for
six weeks. We have a long row of it planted
2 feet apart, and bet-ween the clumps are
Ageratums, Pelargoniums, Violas, and Lobelia,
which kinds of plants as soon as we get rain
will begin to look untidy. Then will the Sedum
do good service by way of keeping up the gaiety
of file border.—W. W.

Yucca, flaccida. —Of all the Yuccas this,
as a flowering plant, is by far the best—indeed,
a s I sometimes think, it is the only one worth
growing. It is now very pretty, throwing up
its stout spires of white bells everywhere. We
plant it in clumps and masses in nearly all posi¬
tions, but it grows and blooms best on rockwork
or in dry, sunny borders. It comes in well
with the blue Campanula pyramidalis and
Lilies of the auratum and tigrinum types. A
bold mass of this Yucca is most effective as con¬
trasted with Clematis Jackmanni, or as seen
betide large masses of rosy or crimson Phloxes.
It is quite easily increased by dividing large
masses into separate crowns, and replanting in
food, deep soil during the spring months. The
fleshy stems, if cut into pieces and buried at the
foot of a sunny wall, will also grow and soou
attain the flowering stage.

Paris Daisies. —The easy cultivation and
continuous blooming habit of these plants
render them amongst the most useful plants
for ordinary greenhouse and conservatory em¬
bellishment. Plants that have been grown with
& view to their blooming in the winter, which
they will do freely if placed in a little warmth,
should not be allowed to remain out of doors
too late. If they have had plenty of room in
an open position, and if the leading shoots have
been stopped in the early stages of their growth,
they will now be strong and sturdy, requiring
no support except it may be that of single sticks
in the centre of each plant. Cuttings put in
now in a little warmth, and in other respects
treated in the usual way, will root quickly.
They should be kept in small pots through the
winter, and they will make pretty little plants
in spring ; or they may be grown on to a large
size out of doors next summer.

Dep to siphon 8. —These are sweetly pretty
plants, all of dwarf growth, and mostly form
dense tufts profusely furnished with bloom. The

Leptosiphon androsaceus.

'tm of the half a dozen or more kinds is L.
^ua, one of the prettiest of all annuals, The
Were, about the size of a sixpenny-piece, are
rxiuced in dense clusters, and are of a soft
^ pink colour—so pleasing when seen in a
ta®. L. densiflorus is a pretty plant,
vticnlarly the white variety of it; and there
gome pretty varieties of L. androsaceus,
»iich however, do not last long enough in
liona* to be of much service, except for pot
Qhure. There is a race of hybrid varieties,
aid to be pretty, but theyWfere not in bhjbm at
% Osyth.Digitized by

eyWere not in blcTom a

Co gTe

Nycterinia selaginoides.— The two cul¬
tivated annual species belonging to this genus
of the Linaria family are both charming little
plants possessing a l>eauty peculiar to them¬
selves. They arc dwarf, aud form deuse
rounded tufts, which at this season are thickly
studded with blossom. In N. selaginoides they
are pure white with an orange eye, and the
bifid petals give the flowers a fringed appear¬
ance. The blossoms give off a pleasant fragrance
by night, but it is scarcely perceptible by day.

Nycterinia selaginoides.

N. capensis is the other species, and, like the
former, is a native of the Cape of Good Hope ;
therefore they are only half-hardy, and require
to be grown on a sunny border in light sandy
loam.

Anemones as annuals.— On all soils
where Anemone tubers succeed fairly well I am
sure more satisfactory results, so far as quantity
and quality of bloom is concerned, would be
gained by sowing seeds on a prepared bed early
in April or the beginning of May. The treat¬
ment usually given to a bed of Onions suits them
exactly, and by making two or three successional
sowings, a long continuance of their fresh
flowers may be obtained. I have now before
me freshly cut blossoms from a seed-bed sown
in April last. It is not always easy to be quite
sure of good seed being obtained, but if a selec¬
tion of good-named tubers be grown in the first
instance, it is easy to save seeds from the finest
flowers, and so on year after year until a really
fine standard of excellence is reached. Good
deep, loamy soil, enriched with cow manure,
suits the Anemone better than any other.

Mule Pinks. —These may be increased in
autumn by means of layers, in the same way as
Carnations, or by cuttings. Take off the side
shoots and put six or eight into a 3-inch pot in
sandy soil. They may be put either under
handglasses or in a close frame. September is
the best month for such work. They will emit
roots in three or four weeks, and may be either
potted off or kept in the cutting pots till spring,
but the former is best. For spring propagation
the stock plants should be got into a tempera¬
ture of about 55 decs, in January. When the
cuttings are prepared they may be inserted all
round the insides of 5-inch pots filled with finely
sifted soil, consisting of yellow loam, leaf-mould,
and sand in equal parts. Water and place them
in a cutting box on a gentle bottom heat, where
they will emit roots in fourteen days.

Jackman’s Clematis.— This well-tried
old variety is of all garden Clematises perhaps
the best for general decoration. It grows
freely in rich deep soils and is at home every¬
where in beds or borders, on wires or other
trellis work, or on old tree stumps, dead
bushes, or as trained on w'alls. The other day
I saw a plant of it which had been planted
along with the silvery-leaved variety of Acer
Negundo, and the effect was very pretty ; but
on a wall, along with golden-leaved Ivy, the
plant is still more showy, and in Battersea Park
it is effectively combined with bushes of the
golden-leaved Elder. Now, of course, we shall
all be very anxious to secure the white-flowered
C. Jackmanni alba, for which Mr. Noble re¬
ceived a first-class certificate at South Kensington
last year. Planted together, the purple and

white forms would be most charming. How
rarely, nowadays, do we see the double variety
of C. Vitieella, which is most floriferous and of
a mouse-coloured purple hue.—W.

The great perennial Sunflower (Heli-
anthus multitiorus major) is one of the best and
certainly the most distinct and showy of all the
perennial Sunflowers, and it is very interesting
to observe its different growth and habit on
various soils. I saw it quite rampant the other
day, growing 8 feet high in deep, rich earth, the
leaves being far larger in proportion than the
blossoms, but in another place, on poor soil, it
was barely half the height, with much smaller
leaves ancl thrice the quantity of great yellow
flowers. It evidently becomes too plethoric in
some soils, but does best on a dry sunny border,
and I find it advisable to divide old clumps into
separate crowns every spring. So treated, a
much fresher growth is made, and the flowers
are also larger and finer on our deep sandy soil.
S.

Harpalium rigidum. —By far the best of
the many kinds of Sunflower is Harpalium rigi¬
dum, a hardy perennial that increases freely by
division from its quick-spreading crown, from
w’hich it pushes up strong stems every year,
that branch out and bear numerous single heads
of large bright, clear yellow blossoms, that are
remarbably showy and effective when seen in
contrast with scarlet Dahlias, with the flowers
of which they dress and associate well. As
plants of this Harpalium rigidum grow about
a yard high, they are specially suitable for the
backs of herbaceous borders or the foreground
of shrubs, in front of which they show off to
great advantage, and attract notice and com¬
mand admiration by their boldness of character
and brilliant appearance.—S. D.

Variegated Oomfrey (Symphytum offici¬
nale variegatum) is one of the most effective of
all hardy border plants, and is most effective as
seen in contrast with bold clumps of blue
Delphiniums or of crimson-flowered Phloxes. It
has just thrown up its autumn growth of yellow-
margined leaves and is very showy. It is easily
increased by dividing the established clumps in
March and April, just as its spring growth
appears, and if well-planted in deep rich soil it
soon forms a really bold and effective mass. In
some gardens this summer we have been quite
charmed with plants of the golden-leaved
Laburnum as used for distant effects. Planted
near to the purple-leaved Beech it is most effec¬
tive, being of a much richer and decided shade
of golden yellow than either the golden forms of
Elder or Catalpa.

Linaria reticulata is a sweetly pretty
plant, neat in growth and extremely profuse in

Linaria reticulata.

bloom. The variety named aureo-purpurea is
the best of all, and a good-sized bed of it here
captivated everyone. The flowers are small in
themselves, but are borne numerously in dense
clusters, their colour being a reddish brown and
a bright orange, copiously spotted. It is,
moreover, one of the most distinct of all annuals,
for there is none that possesses such a beautiful
combination of colours.

Tyerman’s Groundsel. — This showy
plant, otherwise known as Senecio pulcher, is
now very showy, the colour being a bright rosy
purple, quite distinct from that of most other
composite plants now in flower. Jt is easily in¬
creased by -root cuttings in-a“little heat, and

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

24 6

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 2, 1884.

prefers a deep, rich, sandy soil on a cool, moist
bottom. Well grown, it is a first-rate hardy
biennial, or rather it does best when treated as
such. It is now blooming quite freely, and its
large Marguerite-like blossoms are much ad¬
mired for cutting, as they endure fresh and fair
for several days indoors. Another species, S.

S eciosus, is also in bloom from seeds sown in
arch, the young plants having been planted
out in May. Its blossoms are, however, neither
so large or so showy as those of S. pulcher, nor
are they so useful for indoor decoration.
Flowers of the last named, arranged along with
those of sulphur Marguerites, are very bright and
effective.

Single Olirysanthemums. —The showy
and floriferous tricoloured Ox-eye Daisy (C.
Burridgeanum) well deserves to be more gene¬
rally grown that it is. It is a robust, hardy
annum, attaining under fair treatment as to soil
and room bush-like dimensions, and its flowers
add greatly to the enrichment of any garden.
When massed in borders or in large beds, it is
strikingly beautiful. It endures protracted wet
weather better than most annuals, and if the
faded blooms can be removed once a week or so,
to prevent exhaustion, it will present a con¬
tinuously gay appearance from July until de¬
stroyed by sharp frosts. It is easily cultivated;
the seeds may be sown in May out of doors,
where the plants are to flower, but when thus
treated they do not bloom so early as when
raised and forwarded under glass; besides,
great watchfulness and care are needed to keep
seedlings of this description in the open ground
from being devoured by vermin. We prefer,
therefore, to sow under glass in boxes in April.
Prick out the seedlings when large enough in
a cold frame, and transplant carefully to the
open ground at the end of May. A packet of
seed will produce flowers of divers shades and
sizes, nearly all bright and effective. In a cut
state we find them highly valued and very last¬
ing. They may be a little stiff in form, but this
can be improved by cutting the stems of different
lengths and arranging them lightly by themselves,
with a little supporting greenery intermixed.
Of a different class, and of greater value than
the preceding, are the almost universal favourites,
the Marguerites or Paris Daisies, C. frutescens,
justly entitled to the term perpetual-flowering.
These are alike useful in pots indoors in winter
and spring, or planted out for summer and
autumn display. For this purpose we like best
the charming Etoile d’Or and the white variety,
with finely cut, glaucous leaves. The blooms
are borne more abundantly on this sort than on
those with larger flowers, and the foliage alone
is ornamental. We hear of these Daisies living
through the winter in some favoured localities,
but they do not do so here, and I think the least
troublesome way of providing considerable
numbers of sturdy young plants for bedding
will be to take cuttings in October, and treat
them precisely the same way as shrubby Calceo¬
larias are usually propagated. We inserted
a quantity last season in a cold frame set on a
dry, firm bottom, on which were placed 5 inches
or 6 inches of sandy loam, into which the cut¬
tings were dibbled. These made much stronger
and healthier plants than those from cuttings
struck in heat in spring.—A. M.

TropaBolum azureum.—I am greatly
obliged to “Byfleet” for his detailed descrip¬
tion of his experience of this plant. In giving a
mere list of blue flowers I did not think it
necessary to confine it to plants I had actually
grown, and so included a few of which I had
no cultural experience. Tropreolum azureum I
had great doubts about naming, knowing the
peculiarity of its native climate, and only did
so at the last moment, because blue climbers are
so very scarce. I might have named Gentiana
Fortunei—that king of the Gentians, which no
cultivator, however skilled, seems able to
manage. I found Tropteolum azureum recom¬
mended in an old book I formerly had as
worthy of every attention, and, finding the
tubers ottered by Mr. Barr, felt sure that any
urchasers would receive from him full cultural
irections. The climate of the island of Chiloe
is very peculiar. There is no rain, but a steamy
mist comes up from the ocean and keeps the
plants almost dripping wet, conditions which
are very difficult to' imitate artificially. The
island is at the nlrth fnl ol south

latitude 12 to 44,V*aflifer coid^Aifr-whether

there is much frost or not I am unable to say.
Sheltered valleys opening on the sea where
a little frost comes would be the best places to
attempt the culture of these plants in the open
air. “ By fleet’s ” cultivation, as to composition
and moisture of soil, is just what one would
expect to find in a damp but rainless climate,
and the beneficial effect of autumn dews points
in the same direction. I shall certainly attempt
the culture of these plants immediately, and
must again express my thanks to “ By fleet ” for
his valuable article.-—J. D.

ARRANGEMENT OF BEDDING PLANTS.
There are now not only two Richmonds in the
field, but quite a posse. “ J. D.” has disturbed
a nest of industrious bedders-out, and the
question now becomes one, not of the arrange¬
ment of bedding plants, but of the disputed
superiority of one style of gardening over
another ; it were well, therefore, if the issues
can be confined within this narrow limit, and
argued out calmly and dispassionately, so that
your readers may judge for themselves and be
converted or confirmed in adherence to either
system. As a master, teacher, or disciple of
any particular school of thought, “ J. D. must
surely have been frequently surprised to find,
after what has appeared a successful course,
pupils who have seemed to comprehend cn route
all one tried to teach them, suddenly exhibiting
the appalling fact that they so closely adhered
to original error that even the first and funda¬
mental principles of reform were wanting, the
superstructure has collapsed in consequence,
and a fresh start has been absolutely essential.
It appears to me that the present is just such
an instance. The old bedding-out ghost refuses
to be laid, and when we fondly imagine that
even first principles are surely established, and
gradual reform progressing in favour of a more
natural style of gardening, this spectre stalks
across our paths in all its hideousness.

I apprehend the teachings of The Garden and
Gardening Illustrated have always tended in
the direction of a study of the conditions under
which plants are found in a wild, and therefore
natural, state in their true home, and that the
closer we get to an imitation of those sur¬
roundings and conditions in our gardens, so are
we closer to perfect true beauty.

There is one thing which must be conceded at
the outset, and it should go without saying,
viz., the type of the most beautiful and perfect
is found in Nature. The architect goes to
her for the relative proportions of capital
and shaft, length and width of his strongest
and most graceful pillars, by copying the
relative proportions of the human form; he
goes to the Acanthus for his Corinthian capi¬
tal, and copies the arching of his cathedral nave
from Nature’s Gothic in her groves of trees.
Sir Joseph Paxton got in the Palm leaf his ideal
of strength combined with grace and beaut y for
his chef d'oeuvre , the Crystal Palace. The
sculptor, painter, actor, or author, all who
search for beauty and truth, fly to nature at
every turn, he being most successful who most
closely and conscientiously copies her. Why,
then, should it not be so in gardening matters ?
Why not raise gardening into a high art by pur¬
suing nature into all her hiding-places, and
noting all her secrets. Our greatest men, such
as Darwin, Huxley, Owen, Pasteur, and
Lubbock, have made life-long studies in the
same direction, and with unvarying success.
We may read in “ The Garden of the Sun,” in
plant collectors’ records, and in Kingsley’s
works, how exotics and Orchids grow at
home ; we can see in the North Gallery at Kew
paintings of such made on the spot from nature
in all parts of the tropics, Orchids appearing in
sheets of bloom out on the tops of tall forest
trees, and we learn by such means that no
matter in how small a degree we imitate such
conditions of culture in our glasshouses as we
find in nature, we are in the same measure suc¬
cessful. Alpine travels show us how vast fields
of mountain scenery are enriched with flowers
in a way we may never equal; but we know
that the closer we imitate in our rock garden,
the more beautiful the result is. Our bogs, for
such subjects as Cypripedium spectabilc, are in
English gardens to-day so closely imitated that
the Equisetum (the dwindled giant of past ages)
is planted therein, and there this Orchid truly
luxuriates in its company. An old moss-grown

wall, interlaced with Ivy, Honeysuckle, and
Roses, is such a natural ideal as every¬
one must desire in his garden ; a streamlet
rippling over boulders into Iris-margined pools
on which Water Lilies spread their all-beloved
beauties ; a Blue Bell and Anemone carpeted
wood, banks of Primroses and Violets, fields of
wheat splashed with showers of scarlet Poppies,
hangingtufts of Pinks and cushions of Saxifrages
in the mountain glen-side, chinks and pockets
of Sempervivums, bold masses of Lilies, all
appeal to us, and not in vain, as lessons to be
learnt in true gardening. Nature, I need not
say, when left alone docs not dot and design her
gardens with line and compass, and doom her
plants to bo plastered up with clay in pie-crust
ornaments to perish ; everything is massed in
harmonious colour-groups of almost prismatic
ljeauty, not in Paisley shawl and Brussels carpet
barbarity. Why, then, not imitate her ways,
and grow our Poppies amidst ornamental
Grasses, Lilies, in large groups, amongst Rhodo¬
dendrons and Laurels, Bulbs in masses, in sun
or semi-shade, as in their habitat. Rocks in
proportion to the size of the garden (no matter
how small it may be) could be half buried in
the soil, and annuals if you like planted near
them, for the bedders-out have no right to claim
as the property of their argument everything
but perennial plants, which they seem inclined
to. The more of the high class perennials the
better no doubt, but in a question of this kind,
a question of arrangement not of selection, the
whole field of horticulture is open to “J. D.”
and his supporters ; they may select just what
is most pleasing to them, yet so long as irregular
massing, natural arrangement, ana grouping in
blendB of harmony are studied (and careful
thought is required, or there would be an
absence of art), and adopted, true beauty will
be achieved. To-day a friend, who professes to
know nothing of gardening, tells me that enter¬
ing on a new tenancy last spring he had not
time to have his garden “put in order ” («c) ;
he therefore bought seeds of Mignonette, Con¬
volvulus, Candytuft, Nasturtiums, Marigolds,
&c., and planted them in groups amongst such
things as Lobelias, Geraniums, Pinks, Calceo¬
larias, Pansies, Lilies, and Dahlias, of course
having regard to respective heights.

The effect startled his bedding-out neigh¬
bours, who could not help admiring his garden,
yet knew not why. He now thinks ho has by
chance stumbled across a secret many others
labour hard to discover, and determines to
adhere to his successful gardening experiment.
In short, if we are not progressing in the
tasteful and artistic arrangement of our gardens,
we are degenerating into the mediaeval period
of the clipped Yew style, wherein divers birds
and monstrosities were fashioned out of what
would have been beautiful trees if only left
alone. Whether in ferneries or flower-shows,
greenhouses or gardens, we should go to the
plants themselves for information as to how
they should be placed, and if we knock at that
door of knowledge it will surely be opened unto
us. “Let us consider the Lilies of the field,
how they grow.”

Horsforthj near Leeds. R. A. H. G.

ARRANGEMENT OF PLANTS.

I wish “J. D.” every success in his advocacy
of the natural arrangement of gardens, and
rejoice in the fact that people generally are
getting more disposed to favour it, as the
popular taste becomes more educated. That it
is the highest style of plant arrangement, and
that capable of affording the truest and most
lasting pleasure, no average person who care¬
fully compares the two systems can deny.
There is the same difference between the system
we advocate and the bedding-out system of
geometrical forms and vivid masses of colour,
that exists between one of Beethoven's adagios
and the popular, sparkling dances of the day.
The beauty of the former grows upon one each
time we hear it, the softly flowing melody and
entle, ever-varying modulations constantly
iscovering some fresh interest; while the
other is all flash and sparkle, over at once ; the
ear soon gets tired of it. Or among pictures,
who would not prefer one of Poussin’s delight¬
ful pastorals before a picture of gaudy
I&ioqui:fc« and macaws. Th? writer in Gar-
^DKNiNCTpJmy 19trr, 'says ,L tnat- i ‘-jkfiyone who
watches the expression of the face i of visitors

I

(

5

e

*

r & *j &

August 2, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

247

to our public parka will see how widely the
bedding-out system is appreciated.” I have
seen them, and the thought has struck me of
the suitability of the similes I have just
used, viz., that the sudden surprise and admira¬
tion they express is, as a rule, all expended at
the first view. One visit is enough to see all
there is to see. I heartily endorse “ T. D.’s”
remarks as regards artists and artistic taste,
and would commend them to especial notice,
being something of an artist myself, on which
account I should like to point out the futility of
the argument used by the writer in the issue of
the 19th, that we do not really imitate nature
in the system we advocate. I maintain we do.
In this way : every reverential and docile
student of nature, be he possessed of the spirit
of poet, musician, or artist (and he may be thus
without following either as a profession), knows
that nature is governed by certain laws in her
arrangements. The more one studies this the
more wc become convinced of it. It is not a
mere accidental conglomeration of material, and
the artist avails himself of these laws in his
pictures ; he does not necessarily paint exactly
what he sees ; he knows nature’s methods and
arranges his objects accordingly. He finds, as
the musician would say, the key of the piece,
and he makes all his landscape agree with the
keynote. Hence he sometimes has to remove
something that is in the natural landscape, or
add something that is not there ; and so the
artist gardener copies nature’s method, but not
every detail of arrangement; hence he may
make endless new combinations, not, perhaps,
actually formed in nature, but yet quite possible,
and, in fact, probable.

The argument is very poor that we ought to
build our houses with the material in the state
of nature. It is not at all a parallel case.
We should not build at all at that rate,
for there are no houses in nature, unless we
mention caves, and there are by no means a
sufficient number of those, so that we must
build ; and then there are many reasons why
the material should not be used rough—it is
much more safe against the action of the ele¬
ments, much more desirable, as well as alto¬
gether more comfortable, when squared and
smoothed—in other words, the houses built of
hewn materials answer this purpose much
better—viz., shelter, safety, and comfort, and
in the same way the natural gardens answer
their purjKJse best—viz., that of giving enjoy¬
ment.

And, again, they say we do not imitate nature
in reality, because we do not make our gardens
just like a landscape.

I say we do, but with this difference:
although adhering to nature so as to retain all
the characteristic and beautiful features, we
eliminate the most interesting parts, thus col¬
lecting, as it were, all the beauty of an exten¬
sive landscape into a smaller compass, and
making what we profess to do, a multum in
parvo landscape.

We want to get the effects of a natural land¬
scape without so much walking about, and thus
the garden does not supplant the landscape, but
enables us to enjoy nature when we have not
the time to walk abroad.

I have seldom experienced anything the
beauty of which has impressed me more than a
sight this May in our own garden. During the
balmy evenings, as the sun set and twilight
grew on, thrown against the rich foliage of a
very large Copper Beech was the glow from the
sunset sky seen through the haze of the rising
mists, and drooping over the Beech were the
light feathery sprays of Birches, their silver
^joles gleaming, and under the trees, on a
‘loping bank in the deep, liquid shadow', a
'age cloudy mass of single Rockets, here and
‘.here jutting out into the sunlight, and loading
he air with^their sw r eet scent.

Some people seem to think this can only be
one in a large place, but the little lawn in
>ont of the house is very small, and yet it is
crprising how charming it looks. In front are
i Beech and a Lime overshadowing it, and
sderneath are common male Ferns and others
‘•’ringed amongst old tree stumps and gnarled
ba piled up in picturesque neglige.

^ut one thing I must say, and that is that it
is true the system cannot be universally adopted.
Ue exception is with th/villa.regidfcncc* having
fet a small patch of gVdiii'ia aJmLfor

Eich I would say bed out iu geomeraidhl beds

rather than not have plants at all, but I should
then tolerate it only as a necessary evil.
Another thing is that we must suit the style of
arrangement to the style of the house and laying
out of grounds. This is in a garden of any size,
large or small. There are some houses and
gardens that the bedding system suits best, but
still, wherever available, the other is preferable.

I am not writing merely my own ideas, but
speak from the testimony of the numerous
visitors that have seen our own garden. But
w r e shall not get the natural system adopted by
all at once, it will come gradually, as the
popular taste becomes more refined. I have seen
lamentable evidences of the want of taste in some
quarters by the indiscriminate use of objects
tho would-be artists have seen used in other
gardens, they expecting that the mere objects
themselves would give the effect, and unaware
of the methods of arrangement. Thus we
sometimes see a bit of one style and a bit of the
other jumbled incoherently together. This is
most detestable and objectionable of all.
Harncastlc. C. II. S.

THE MIXED BORDER IN AUGUST.

It is a very favourite device with those who
still advocate the bedding-out system as applied
to private gardens in preference to mixed
borders to refer to this month as a proof of its
superiority. Go, we are told, into tho garden
where it is carried out; see the marvellously
beautiful leaf gardening that meets your eye ;
mark the taste with which the various colours
are arranged ; see the exquisite patterns, and
acknowledge yourself beaten, for what have
you to show in your mixed borders now ? In
spring, and, indeed, up to July, you may make
out a good case, but in August you are hope¬
lessly to leeward. Your Delphiniums are over;
your Lilies, the glory of your July show, are

S assed away; your herbaceous plants are
one ; it is true you may hare Phloxes
and Antirrhinums, but these are really florists’
flowers, and unless you can fill your spaces with
Pelargoniums and such like things you have
nothing but decaying stalks and dying foliage
to show. Who has not heard and read over and
over again such statements, and, although they
are utterly fallacious, yet they find favour with
many ?

There is, however, a prima facie evidence in
our favour. In order to make their position the
stronger, they are forced to g*int that up to
this we have had the whip hand. Confessedly,
then, while either their beds have been bare or
the bedded-out plants have been doing their
best to cover the ground, we have had a suc¬
cession of beauty from our early spring-flower¬
ing plants and bulbs up to the glorious time of
our Liliums, Delphiniums, &c., and as the glory
of the leaf gardening now begins to wane, when
cuttings must be taken off for next season, it is
but for one short month that all these pains,
labour, and expense are undertaken ; but even
in that month I deny that they have the advan¬
tage over us, and I will take my small garden
in evidence thereof, and will contrast it with
one which I saw some time ago, where a space
much larger than mine was occupied in leaf or
carpet bedding, where everything was trimmed
down to an exact height, and where the sound
of the clipping reminded one of a hair-cutting
saloon.

In looking out of my study window my eye
rests on a small three-cornered piece of ground,
which is at present a garden in itself ; its size
is 34 feet each way, and in this there are two long
beds filled with Asters, grand in size and brilliant
in colour, one bed of deliciously fragrant Ten-
Week Stocks (these beds were in the spring
occupied by Tulips, Anemones, and Ranun¬
culus)'; then there are two glorious beds of
Gladiolus (which, by-the-by, are better than I
have had them for years), a bed of Tea Roses
rofusely covered with bloom, and a bed of
ouble Zinnias and Pinks. Opposite is a small
border in which various spring flowers have
bloomed ; it is now backed up by a row of
Phloxes, and edged with Campanula pumila
alba. Various things are in flower ; amongst
others a large clump of Anemone japonica,
Honorine Jobert, and a small clump of one of the
grandest Liliaceous plants we have, although,
unhappily, each flower is too short-lived (the
double Hemerocallis). The long bed edging my
lawu, about 120 feet long by from 6 feet to

8 feet wide, is also edged with the dwarf Cam¬
panula still covered with bloom; a fragrant bank
of Sweet Pea breaks the wind which is apt to
sweep round by the angle of the house. In this
border Lilium superbum is still in bloom, and
L. speciosum opening, while auratum and its
fine variety platypetalum are displaying their
beauty ; add to these the fine old Tiger Lily,
and it cannot be said that although the grand
Lilies of July are over, the time of Lilies is
past. Then there is the double white Achillea
Ptarmica fl.-pl., with its pure white flowers ;
the grand Senecio pulcher, one of the finest of
autumnal flowers ; Senecio Doronicum, Hyperi¬
cum patulum, the little white Rose Paquerette,
Rudbeckia Newmanni, Galega officinalis and
alba; again a large clump of the Japanese
Anemone, Statiee incana, Agapanthus umbel-
latus, Chrysocoma Linosyris (Goldilocks).
Add to these a few patches of Sweet
Sultan, Chrysanthemum Dunnetti, and about
a dozen plants of the best and most distinct
single Dahlias, and I think, taking it altogether,
it is a border not to be despised ; but 1 have
another border about the same length opposite
my small Rose garden, and here again, although
there is no blaze, yet there is much of beauty ;
it is backed up by a row of Sweet Peas, and has
been full of flower all the year. There are now
in it a fine clump of Aster alpinus, a large bush
(it is almost that) of Gypsophila paniculata, dear
to all ladies for the elegance and lightness which
it gives to a stand of flowers. Here still linger
a Few flowering stems of hybrid Columbines ;
Senecio pulcher is again in flower ; some fine-
coloured Phloxes are blooming w’ell; a large
clump of Echinops, with its brilliant blue
flowers; while patches of Linum grandiflorum
rubrum, AgrostemmaCceli-rosa, &c., give some¬
what of more colour.

It is true that the glories of the small rockery
have departed; spring is its time ; but even
now one can pitch on a little gem such as the
pretty blue Omphalodes Lucilia?, the bright
Linaria alpina, the quaint spikelets of Accena
Novae-Zelandiae, or the tiny, but pretty blossoms
of Androsace lanuginosa ; but we must not forget
that at a time when the advocates of the carpet
system were mourning perhaps over their plants
fogging off, the rockery displayed its beauties
of form and colour often in the midst of snow
and all kinds of ungenial weather. I should
add that the bed fronting my greenhouse, which
comes gay in spring with Chionodoxa, Snow¬
drops, Daffodils, Narcissi, and Hyacinths, is now
fragrant with luxuriant Mignonette, on which my
bees are disporting merrily ; and here let me say
is one great pull we have on the carpet system.
There is not a plant amongst them that
sends forth any perfume ; but all who can grow
our Sweet Peas, Mignonette, Lavender, and
Stocks have an immense advantage. I can at
any time gather a nosegay from my garden,
varied in the character and colour of the
flowers, as one may imagine from the list I have
given, and withal breathing forth that delicious
Fragrance which gives to flowers so great a
charm.

I have written thus on the defensive, and
although I have no bedding out, I am not
insensible to its advantages, and do not agree
with your correspondent that the mixed border
is more suitable for public parks ; there, I think,
it is quite in place ; the ever-changing crowd is
not w'earied by the sameness. It gives a mass
of colour which, especially for distant effect, is
admirable; nor is it correct to say that the
mixed border has never had a fair trial in any
public park. Those who recollect the Luxem¬
bourg Gardens, under M. Riviere’s care, before
the siege, will remember how much care was
bestowed on them, but the effect for such a
place was not pleasing. As to people being
educated by such places, that is simply de¬
luding ; people do not go to Hyde Park to be
educated, but to enjoy themselves. In large
places, too, there is ample room for both styles.
As I stood a little while ago on the terrace in
front of Cliveden, looking down upon the wide
lawn in front, I could not but feel that if any
garden was to be there (a point on which I had
my doubts), no style was so suitable for it as
the bedding out. My contention is against
those who have spoiled many a villa garden—
aye, and many a cottage garden too—by advo¬
cating fhis saudy system. I know of ma,ny a
cottage garden where the old-fashioned, flowers
have been banished to make way for Mrs.

248

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 2, 1884.

Pollock, yellow Calceolarias, and such like, and
I cannot but deplore the change. Tastes on
such points must and will differ ; but I am
thoroughly persuaded of this, that those who
wish for a lengthened and varied period of enjoy¬
ment in their gardens will find that it is to be
obtained much more by the mixed border system
than by the more showy system known as
bedding out, more especially that latest de¬
velopment of it, the leaf or carpet system.

D. E. L.

11756.—Tulips and Crocuses after blooming
—It is usual to find that Crocuses have greatly increased in
number, and tho bulbs are always much smaller. Plant
them out in the garden this year, and purchase a fresh lot
of Dutch roots to grow' in pots. The Tulips will flower
fairly well the second year in pots, but they are very poor
after that. By careful culture they will, like the Crocuses,
improve in the open ground.-^J. D. E.

11693.— Red Spirgea.— Plant out in the open ground
in good rich soil, watering well in dry weather. This
plant, like Japonica, requires an abundance of moisture
and good food when growing. Another year plant out
about the middle of June, as the longer time the plants
have in the open ground the stronger w ill be the growth
made.—J. C. B.

THE COMING- WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

There is hardly a plant that will stand green¬
house temperature that would not be much bene¬
fited by full exposure to the outside atmosphere
during the present month. The night dews are
so invigorating to plants of this class, that the
whole stock should now bo placed under their
influence. The foliage on all the New Holland
plants will stand safely through the winter if
the plants are fully exposed at the present season.
Epacrises should now have full exposure to
the sun to thoroughly ripen up their growths, as
on this will their flowering freely depend. Strong
plants of the Scarborough Lily (Vallota pur¬
purea) should now be liberally fed in order to
induce them to throw a good crop of flowers.

Pinks and Carnations. —Pinks intended for
forcing should now be in their blooming pots, to

¥ ' ve them time to get established before winter.

he earliest Carnations should now be throwing
up their flower-spikes, and must be kept free
from aphides. Late-flowering Lilies are often
crippled at this season if greenfly gains a foot¬
ing among the flowers. Where this is the case
the points of the shoots should be dipped in a
weak solution of Tobacco water.

Pelargoniums.— The whole stock of Pelar¬
goniums, both show and fancy kinds, may now
be cut down if the shoots have been w-ell ripened.
Encourage late ones to break freely and quickly,
so as to get part of their growth made before
the short days set in. Plants that were cut
down earlier and that have broken should be
shaken out and repotted at once.

Cinerarias should at once be placed in
their flowering pots—6 inches or 7 inches in
diameter is large enough for ordinary purposes
—and, as the plants are well managed, they will
grow therein to a size that will produce fine
heads of bloom. They arc very subject to
greenfly, which must never be allowed to get
established upon them, or both appearance and
beauty will lie sacrificed. As soon as the pots
are filled M’ith roots they should he regularly
supplied with manure water. Never allow
them to become cramped at the root before
moving them into their flowering pots, or they
will not attain their wonted strength and size.
Grow them in good loam, with one-fifth of
rotten manure and leaf-soil in equal parts
added, and as much sand os will keep the soil
porous.

Primulas should also be moved into 6-inch
flowering pots. They are somewhat spare-root¬
ing subjects, and do not require a great body of
soil to grow in. Drain them well, using soil
similar to that used for Cinerarias. Put both
in pits or frames, facing northwards, and give
air freely, taking the lights completely off the
Primulas during the day, but do notallow them
to get saturated with rain. In very bright
w eather a piece of old netting placed over them
will be useful to break the sun’s rays, but will
not obstruct the light as a mat would do.

Flower Garden.

Hardy Plants. ^--Amongst the® there are
now )n bloom scveial fi|ie\Spi -^Jb) fl^adescan-
tias, Campanulas, iWtiiT^-AehiilApJ retentillas,

Lathyruses, Veronicas, Tritomas, Staticcs (such
as S. latifolia and S. Fortunei), Pentstemons^
Phloxes, Stenactises, and others. In order t
have fine flowers the shoots should be thinned
out a little and small earth basins formed round
the roots of each plant for the retention of w ater.
Cut over at about half the length of the stems
such plants as have done blooming, for the sake
of neatness. Many kinds of perennials may yet
be propagated from cuttings, and also by means
of seeds, w hich may be either sown in a border
out of doors or in boxes in frames. Gather all
seeds as soon as ripe, dry them, and dress them,
and either sow- them immediately or keep them
till spring.

Pansies and ViqLAS. —Cuttings of Pansies and
Violas should now be put in. They strike freely in
the open air under a north wall, but must be well
supplied wdth water. Pansies, particularly the self-
coloured varieties, are very beautiful during
spring, but do not flower so long as the Violas; yet if
a succession of plants be kept on hand, by putting
in a few cuttings every six weeks throughout
the season, from the time growth commences in
spring until autumn, uninterrupted bloom may
be had. Pink pippins which were put in some
weeks ago and are now well rooted should be
placed out of doors. They must now- be planted
outabout4inchesapartinfine8oil, to be replanted
again in October. If there be not a sufficient
number of plants, it is not difficult to obtain
plenty of good side-growths from the strong
shoots. Such plants will not be large, but they
will produce a few good full-sized flowers. If
the space is now vacant where it is intended to
put out the plants, it ought to be trenched up
and some good rotten manure mixed with it.

Bedding Plants. —Such plants as Pelar¬
goniums, Verbenas, Calceolarias, Heliotropes,
and similar subjects may now be regarded as at
their best ; this is, therefore, a good time for
considering what plan of bedding shall be
adopted next year. In dry weather plants in
active growth will require abundance of water,
as well as occasional applications of weak liquid
manure; strong-growing plants will require
stakes, but as few as possible should be em¬
ployed. Where Petunias, Verbenas, and similar
plants are used as edgings, they should be kept
pegged neatly down. Now- that the plants in
the carpet beds will be growing fast, both knife
and fingers must be used freely, so as to pre¬
serve exactitude in the pattern, for confusion
as regards design in this mode of gardening
is anything but imposing. Decayed flowers
should be removed, seed-pods picked off, and
unhealthy or exhausted plants replaced by fresh
and vigorous ones.

Preparations must now be made for next
year’s supply as soon as spring-flowering plants,
such as Alyssums, Pansies, &c., are got in under
hand-lights on a cool shaded border. Look over
all the best kinds of gold and silver tricolor,
bicolor, and bronze Pelargoniums, and take off
any cuttings that can be spared without dis¬
figuring the beds. Insert tnem in small pots
filled with light, sandy soil, and place them in
cold frames, the lights of which can be kept over
them during heavy rains. This class of Pelar¬
goniums must not be treated like the ordinary
plain-leaved scarlets, for while the latter are
about the easiest of all plants to increase, their
near allies, the handsome-leaved section, require
both time and care in their propagation.
Centaureas and Cineraria maritima should be
propagated early in the season, and in the same
way as tricolor Pelargoniums ; owing to the
roots being very brittle they do best in single
pots. Take the cuttings off with a heel of old
wood attached to them, and then insert them in
)>ots ; tie up the foliage to a small stick, shade
them from bright sunshine, and draw the lights
off at night.

Fruit.

Vines. —It will still be necessary to carefully
guard against scalding late Grapes that have
not yet passed that critical juncture. Give
fire-heat at night, and keep the ventilators 1 inch
or 2 inches open in order to prevent condensa¬
tion of moisture, and this, coupled with free
day ventilation, will be found to be a sure pre¬
ventative of the disease. Houses containing
ripe fruit should be kept as cool as possible,
and if the weather be sunny a slight shade would;
tend to preserve the colour of the fruit for a
longer period. Check any disposition which

early vines may still show towards making
fresh growth, by persistent pinching, and see to
the renovation of the borders as early as
circumstances will permit, in order that the
roots may get established in the new soil before
the close of the growing season. Wasps and
flies are frequently very destructive to Grapes
where they are hanging ripe on the vines. In
order to keep these insects out of vineries, nail
some light canvas or tiffany overthe ventilators;
but, where the ventilators are so arranged that
the netting cannot be used in this way, small
muslin bags should be made in -which the
bunches should be encased. Do not let the
surface soils in vineries, in which the fruit is ripe,
become dust dry. A little moisture in the
atmosphere does little harm so long as there is a
circulation of fresh air, and the dust does not
rise and settle so freely on the bunches when the
soil is a little damp as when it is dry. When the
vine borders are finally watered, the soil may be
raked finer than it has hitherto been, in order
that its surface may look tidy for the remainder
of the season.

Peaches and Nectarines.— Trees from which
the crop has been gathered should be regularly
syringed in order to maintain cleanliness of
foliage, and if fly be troublesome fumigate with
Tobacco paper. Do not hesitate to cut away
any straggling shoots that are likely to prove
injurious through overlapping others, and which
hinder the full action of light and air on the
fruiting wood of next season. Keep inside
borders well supplied with water, and the trees
that are swelling off fruit should have manure
water. Soil should be got in readiness for
making new borders or renovating old ones, as
transplanting and top-dressing should be done
as soon as ever there are indications of maturity
of growth, by the falling of the leaf; there is
then no perceptible check as regards fruiting the i
following season.

Vegetables.

When the Potatoes are harvested there will
be ample space for all kinds of winter Greens.

The planting of Savoys, Kales, Coleworts, and
late Broccoli should be completed forthwith,
and earlier plantations wdll now be fit to earth i
up, a practice at once beneficial both as a pro¬
tection against wind-waving and as a means of
aerating the soil. A last sowing of Cabbage and
Cauliflower may now be made on a warm 5
sheltered aspect to stand the winter. These
will make good plants for putting out in spring
to succeed the late autumn plantings, the pro¬
duce of seed sown a fortnight or so ago.

The sowing of wdnter Spinach should not be
longer delayed ; a deep, moderately rich soil and t
a dry situation suits it best, and the plants should
not be nearer than 1 foot each way. We prefer the
rows 2 feet apart, in order that the ground may
be the more conveniently hoed and the produce
gathered. Onions of the Tripoli and Giant
Rocca kinds should at once be sown rather
thickly in drills, to be planted out early in the
new year. Of course this plan is practised with
a view to the utilisation of ground, there being
no valid reason against sowing them sufficiently
thin, and where they arc to mature, except the

Q uestion of space, which in most gardens is now
ully occupied with winter and late-maturing
autumn crops ; such concentration of space is,
therefore, necessary. Winter Lettuces (Bath
Cos), Endive, and Turnips should all now be
sown in quantities more or less according to
circumstances. Lettuce and Endive may still
be planted out with fair prospects of success.

If, as often happens, ground for Celery could J
not be had in sufficient quantity at the proper
time, any planted now will come in admirably ^
for soups, and will save the general stock. It *
should be planted out thickly, and, like Lettuces, **
that is all the culture which it will require,
seeing that it is intended for soups only. Earth *
up the earliest planted Celery ; mulch and stake
late Peas ; cut Globe Artichokes as soon as they ^
are fit for use—even if not required they had r
better be cut, and when done bearing all the old '*
stems should be removed and the ground **
loosened with forks or hoes. Remove also the <
seed stems from seakale, and thin out the
crowns if crowned, in order to favour early 1
ripening. Tomatoes should be encouraged by *
constantly pinching and training out the shoots, *
p*.thdF at je&t&y maturity -of £ tittle fruit *
than a quantity which perhaps may fail to ripen *

at a ktcr-pej-iod. i HA K' PA G 'T

August 2, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

249

The Atamasco Lily.

the fully-opened blossoms, being of a creamy
white hue suffused with red towards the apex.
A compost of fibrous loam and coarse sand
suits all the species, and they enjoy a period of
absolute rest and drought in the sunshine after
the foliage dies away. Anyone who can grow
Lachenalias and Freesios satisfactorily should
add a few bulbs of Zephyranthcs Atamosco and
Z. carinata to their collections. F. W. B.

The Garland Flower.— So many novel¬
ties now demand space and care that it is

large and fragrant, and even when not in bloom
both species are useful “furnishing” plants,
which soon recover their beauty even if harshly
used. Potted in turfy loam and manure H.
coronarium grows 6 feet in height, flowering
from the apex of every growth at nearly all
seasons.

11098.—Summer blooming plants for
Greenhouse.— There need l>e no difficulty
experienced in rendering a greenhouse gay-
through the Bummer months. Zonal < ieraniums
are a host in themselves, varying in colour, as
they do, from pure white
to crimson. The great
point is to have some nice
young plants growing
along at this time of year,
getting them well estab¬
lished in 2J-inch pots by
September. These, if
shifted in April, will
make a good show from
June onwards. Fuchsias,
too, are most useful ; they
may be kept in good edn-
dition for years. Then
there are Paris Daisies,
now so popular, Lobelias,
Petunias, and Calceo¬
larias. Tuberous Bego¬
nias, too, must not be
omitted, as they are
easily grown, and are
extremely effective for
several months. Some
good tubers should be
obtained in April, which,
if potted in proper soil,
will make a good Bhow.
Vallotas are fine autumn
blooming plants, and two
or three bulbs should be
in every greenhouse.—
J. C. B.

11754. —Orchids for
Fern case. — Hardy
Orchids like an airy
place, with not too much
sun. Ferns and these
ought to succeed well
together, and would make
an interesting feature in
any garden. Cypripe-
diums would do well;
some of them are of easy
culture, and many are
very beautiful. C. acaule :
The stemless Lady’s Slip¬
per grows well, and in¬
creases freely either in
pots or planted out. Two
parts of loam, one of
peat, one of leaf-mould,
and a good sprinkling of
sand answers well for it.
C. calceolus : The Com¬
mon Lady’s Slipper is also
vepr pretty with its
bright yellow pouch, and
grows freely under the
same treatment. C. pu-
bescens: The downy

Lady’s Slipper is a very
vigorous-growing species,
with large yellowish
flowers. C. spectabile :
Noble Lady’s Slipper is
the finest of all, and is a
most stately plant. The
white sepals and petals,
with the rose-coloured
slipper or pouch, and the
soft, pleasing green colour
of the leaves, are its
characteristic features. It succeeds beat planted
in peat, with a little leaf-mould added to it.
Some of the Habenarias are very pretty and
grow freely. H. fimbriata is a free-growing
species. The great Lizard Orchis (H. hircina)
grows and flowers well for a year or two. The
common Bee Orchis (0. apifera) is interesting
and pretty in its way, and easily grown. Orchis
foliosa is really a splendid plant, and should
have a prominent place, when well grown and
kept free from greenfly. : Oiher easily obtained
and hardy species are 0 C fusca, ..Or. latifolis,
in variety, G. maculate, in variety, O. morios,
and 0.

INDOOR PLANTS.

THE ATAMASCO LILY.

(ZEPHYRANTHES ATAMASCO.)

All the Zephyr flowers are very beautiful, this
one particularly so ; and, although it is said to
liave been introduced into English gardens two
centuries or more ago, it is even now the reverse
of abundant in our collections generally. We
have several other white-flowered species of
Zephyranthes, but none can, as I imagine, com¬
pete with this old favou¬
rite when it is really
well grown. Last April
I visited the quaint old
university city of Holland
—Leyden—and M. Simon
de Graaf was quite proud
to show me his pots of
Atamasco Lilies in bloom
in a cold frame. This was
in April, and the plants
were most robust and
healthy, evidently well
crown without any cod¬
dling. Their treatment,
in net, was just that
given to Narcissus tri-
andrus albus, Habran
thus pratensis, and a
hundred, nay, a thou¬
sand, would be nearer the
mark, of other half-hardy
bulbous plants from North
America, from the Cape,
from Mexico, Chili, Peru,
and from Asia Minor.

Garden - loving tourists
who visit Leyden should
on no account neglect to
visit the bulb grounds
of De Graaf Brothers,
wherein many botanically
interesting species are
grown quite apart from
the profit-and-loss point
of view. Indeed, some
few amateurs have been
quite surprised to find
that no temptation will
induce the proprietors to
depart from their usual
practice as wholesale bulb
growers. But I must
return to these lovely
blossoms, which, as the
fable hath it, sprang from
the caresses of the soft
vest wind. Those most
usually alluded to in
books are Z. Candida, a
vhite-flowered Peruvian
apeciee, nearly, if not
quite, hardy, introduced
in 1822 ; Z. carinata, a
very beautiful pink -
tiowered species from
Mexico, introduced two
or three years later. The
greenish-flowered Z. chlo-
roleuca is but rarely seen.

From Texas the white or
pale pink-blossomed Z.

Drummondi was imported
about fifty years ago; and
Z. mesochloa, a white-
petalied species with a
green centre, came from
Buenos Ayres in 1825. Z.
rosea is from Havannah
(1823) ; and Z. striata,
mother white-blossomed
pecies, came from Mexico
the following year ; as also did Z. tubispatha,
aether white-flowered South American plant,
"gether with Z. verecunda, a Mexican plant with
sy flowers. More recently we have had another
»iite-flowered species, Z. Treatise, introduced
om America, but none are more beautiful than
tt plant illustrated. The sketch was made at
^yden in the spring of this year, and shows the
tds and fully-expanded blossoms of the natural
oe. The flower is pure white with a greenish
^tre, the perianth segments being fully ex-
t«ftded in the sunshine^-but closed at pight.
IW style is very much protruded, ai <1 Jh» gads
oirast in colour with Ww-^snowy neluaiRi of

perhaps but natural that old favourites like
Hedychium Gardnerianum are not so often seen
as was formerly the case. When well grown
this old plant is very effective both when in
flower and also in fruit. Even its noble habit of
growth and bold leafage render it worthy of
culture. A warm, airy greenhouse temperature
suits it best. It is hardy indeed in warm locali¬
ties on dry soils with but little protection.
Planted out at the foot of a warm wall, it grows
well, but does not bloom. When well grown,
both this species and the sweet-scented H.
coronarium deserve a place indoors. The latter
is especially desirable, as its blossoms are so

250

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 2, 1884.

11722.— Lilium auratum.— It is not neces¬
sary to purchase fresh bulbs annually, as they
flower better the second and third years than
they do the first, if they are well cared for.
The largest imported bulbs should be potted in
7-inch pots, the medium-sized ones in 6-inch,
and smaller ones in 4-inch and 5-inch. When
flowering time is over they must not be turned
out of doors to be soaked with autumn rains,
but they should be carefully watered and gra¬
dually dried off. When the stems become yellow
cut them over and repot the bulbs, plunging
the pots over the rims in a cold frame,—
J. D. E.

VEGETABLES.

SOWING CABBAGES.

The time has now arrived for sowing Cabbage
seed to produce plants, which will be put out in
the main quarters two months or so hence to
grow on throughout the winter, and supply
tender and delicious heads, so much valued in
April and May. With plenty of Peas, Kidney
Beans, and other choice vegetables in season
just now, Cabbages, however good, do not find
much favour, but there is notliing more appre¬
ciated in early spring, and it is well worth any¬
one’s while to do the best that can be done to
secure a choice and abundant supply at that
season. Now, as I have said, is the time to
begin, and if the few directions about to be given
respecting the crop are carried out, the object
in view will be readily attained. In some cases
seed is sown too early, but in the majority of
instances the reverse of this happens, as it is not
sown until the very end of August or early in
September, and then, unless the autumn is an
exceptionally good one, and the winter favour¬
able, the plants are too late to head in the early
days of spring. In our own case we have plants
now 2 inches high, but they do not represent all
our stock, as we will sow' again at once, and
from each of these sowings will have many
strong plants by the end of September, which
will do well in established quarters before winter
sets in, and there is no danger of their failing to
do right in spring. Of the many
Varieties tried for coming in at the time of
which I speak Webb’s Emperor is one of the best.
It is hardy in constitution, dwarf, and excellent
as regards flavour. In choosing a spot for sow¬
ing the seed now excessive richness is not
wanted, as this is too forcing; a moderately rich
soil is best. Good plants may be raised by sow¬
ing broadcast, but equally fine ones may be had
from rows, and this is how we prefer raising
them. The seed should be sown thinly in drills

2 inches deep and l foot apart. When the soil
is dry at the time of sowing it should be drawn
over the seed, and then each drill should be
firmly trodden down, and the surface raked
level. When the young plants come up and the
rows can be seen the Dutch hoe should be run
between them to loosen the surface and destroy
weeds. Where birds are troublesome it may be
necessary to put a net over the rows until the
plants produce the first rough leaves, and a sharp
outlook must be kept at all times for slugs and
snails. Some of the plants will take the lead of
the others, and it is the most forward ones
which should be drawn out first and planted
for a crop. This may be done two or three
times duiing the autumn, and the first lot
should be used in this way when they are about

3 inches high, as removing them then will give
the remaining plants a good chance of becoming
large and useful for successional planting. In
many gardens

Autumn Cabbage seed is sown three times—
viz., once about the end of July, again the
second week in August, and, lastly, about the
end of August, and useful plants may some¬
times be had from all of these sowings, but very
often the first are a little too early, and the last
are apt to be too late ; plants from the middle
sowing now advised to be made seldom fail to
be right. Some may say they buy their autumn
Cabbage plants, and do not trouble about
raising them, but there is little trouble con¬
nected with such work, and home-grown plants
are always convenient; they are never dete¬
riorated through being long out of the ground,
and this much cannot l^e said in the case of
market plants. An ctance oKCaMio^c peed will
produce some lmndrldgJWL-pl- w «Awlfch will
almost keep up th* ripply in a rete^hjihlp sk:ed

garden all the year round, as while the largest
only are planted out in autumn, the smallest
may be allowed to remain in the seed rows, and
after the winter is over they can be planted
out to succeed those put out in autumn.

_ J. M.

Winter Cucumbers.— As the question of
sowing Cucumbers for winter work will shortly
have to be considered, I may venture to offer
the following remarks on the subject. Given
a small house, say from 20 feet to 30 feet long,
with four rows of 4-inch pipe for winter work,
and a three or four-light frame or pit, Cucumbers
may be had every day in the year, the house
furnishing them from the latter end of Septem¬
ber until the end of April, the frame or pit
doing the rest. Practically there is no need for
the frame, except to enable one to give the
house a thorough cleansing, as plants in good
health have often continued in bearing nine
months, and there is no reason why this time
should not be extended. With a little careful
attention plants now in bearing in a structure
of the description just named may be safely
kept in their present quarters, and run on
until April next, by which time the cuttings
struck in January, and planted in an ordinary
frame the following month, will be ready. The
old plants in the house may then be cut down,
the house receive a thorough cleansing, and

planted again in July with well-established _ _ ___ .

cuttings. As to varieties, we find nothing I cleanest part of tile stems of the leaves ^should

soils grubs are more plentiful than in others,
but Celery should never be planted where they
are abundant. Putting this aside, pre¬
cautions against vermin should be taken before
earthing up in any or all soils is commenced.
Two or three days before earthing a sprinkling
of salt should be thrown along each side of the
rows and on the top of the soil which will bo
used for earthing up, and just before beginning
to use this a quantity of soot should be scat¬
tered amongst the plants; this should be done
before each earthing up. When to begin earth¬
ing is a question easily answered. The first
earthing should take place when the plants are
about 18 inches high. At this time it will be
found that besides the principal leaves there
are a good many short ones growing on the
outside. These are of no use, and should all be
removed ; when this has been done each plant
should have a slight piece of matting tied
round it near the top of the leaves to keep
them firmly together, and then earthing up
may begin. Tne soil on the sides of the
trenches nearest the Celery should be broken
down with the Bpade, and it must be made
quite fine before applying it to the plants.
In doing this the heaviest part of it may
be put between the stems with the spade, but
the hands only should be used for pressing
it about the plants. This should be done with
care, and no particle of it should be allowed to
go between the leaves or into the centre of the
plants, as this would spoil them completely. The

better than Tender and True. It has given us
on the average three dozen good fruit per week
in a house 40 feet long, commencing from the
20th of March last, and the plants are now so
clean and vigorous that we shall not attempt to
remove them, but keep them going through the
autumn and winter, and, if possible, until next
April. It is a wonderfully productive variety,
producing four, five, and six fruit at a joint,
and, what is more to the point, swelling off two
and occasionally three of these fit for table. To
those, then, who thought of cutting down
and replanting I would say run your old
plants on instead. The first point is to
keep these perfectly clean. Fumigate care¬
fully for fly or thrips, and prevent mildew
from making its appearance by judicious
watering and careful ventilation. If it
should come, a slight dust of sulphur on the
foliage is the safest remedy. Avoid the use of
the syringe as much as practicable as the nights
grow longer, and also extremes of temperature.
A maximum of from 70 to 75 degs., and a
minimum of from 60 to 65 degs., are safe figures
for Cucumber growing from September to
March, with 5 degs. lower at each end should
the weather prove exceptionally severe. Thus,
if your house has stood at 10 p.m. at 65 degs.,
rising to 75 degs. at 12 a.m., you may drop to
60 and 70 degs. with a corresponding fall out¬
side. In the matter of training I should recom¬
mend rather more wood than is usually left;
too much cutting and trimming when there is
plenty of root action, with rather a low tempe¬
rature, are apt to lead to many evils, notably
gumming and an imperfect swelling oft'. One
more point to which it may be well to direct
attention during the autumn and winter months
is to do your stopping at intervals. Do not go
over your plants when they are growing satis¬
factorily, and nip out all the growth at once ;
on the contrary, let them always be moving
away at some part.—E. B.

Earthing up Celery.— As the time is
again at hand when Celery will require earthing
up, a few hints on the subject may be accept¬
able. There is nothing at all to hinder anyone
from growing Celery in any kind of garden, as
abundance oi manure and plenty of water will
always produce stems and leaves, but it is quite
another matter turning it out of the soil in first-
rate condition after it has been earthed up two or
three times, andfor a number of weeks or months.
Before beginning to earth up, the stems are always
clean, and free from worm and slug marks, but
when earthed up and blanched it is astonishing
what a quantity of Celery turns out rusty, I
worm-eaten, and pithy. Now, in the best of

be covered over with soil, but it should not be
heaped up on them so far as to be liable to fall
into the centre. Rather than do this it is better
to earth up more frequently, repeating the
process just described. It is only at the first
earthing that the small-sized leaves require to
be taken off, but the plants should be tied up
each time, and the ligatures should be removed
after each earthing. Where there is a large
quantity of Celery to earth up the work can be
done better and faster when two people are
employed at it—one to break the soil and the
other to put it around the plants. In some cases
Celery is earthed up with finely-sifted ashes, and
these blanch it well and keep it nice and cleau,
but it is a more expensive way of treating it
than using the most convenient soil, and is
generally only practised in the case of Celery
for exhibition.—J. M.

Parsley culture. —A sowing of Parsley
should always be made early in August; it
comes into use in May and June, just os the old
plants are running to seed and that sown in
spring not forward enough for use. By Bowing
in August a continuous supply of young Parsley
is maintained. There is another quality in
late-sown Parsley that should not be lost sight
of, and that is the majority of the plants will
stand two winters before they run to seed.
Seed sown now will not, as a rule, run to seed
before the spring of 1885. Although Parsley is
as much in request as any plant we grow, it is
not always cultivated in the most satisfactory
manner. It is frequently sown in odd corners
where the soil is poor and the position cold,
and it is generally left so crowded that the
plants have no room to develop into their proper
character. I find that I secure the best Parsley
by sowing in August, and at the end of February
transplanting into another piece of ground.
Theie is no crop which gives a better return
for generous treatment than Parsley, and
the very character of the plant shows that it
requires it. Its strong, fleshy roots plainly
indicate that a deep rich soil is essential for its
well doing, and no plant is more grateful than
Parsley is for a change of soil. Bearing these
facts in mind, the careful cultivator will select
a spot for it where the soil has been deeply
stirred and well manured, and then no one need
apprehend a scarcity of fine Parsley. When
transplanting time comes put the plants in rows.
A single row near a walk is the best position,
but if in beds in any other position tne rows
should be 18 inches apart and the plants 12
inches asunder in the rows. To secure a supply
of Parsley in winter that is to be in some way
protected, the seed should be sown in March
gardens, and under the most practical of men, I and the plants transplanted now to where they
Celery will become thus affected in exceptional are to stand. To make sure of a supply during
times, but such blemished Celery should never very severe weather we always plant a double
be produced year after year. When this is the line in the borders of an unbeaten Peach house,
case it undoubtedly shows ineffective culture, • which never fails. After being planted it only
and, a.!, imperfect earthinc up. In some requires an occasional watering to keep it grow-

I

i

\

August 2, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

251

mg. We also make a plantation of it about
this time at the foot of a south wall, where it
can be protected with spare lights, or a few
strong stakes and mats may be made to afford it
sufficient protection. In gardens where the
demand for Parsley is uot great, a supply may
be obtained by putting a sufficient number of
plants in pots. If potted at once and three or
four plants are put into 7-inch pots and grown
on and treated in the same way as pot Straw¬
berries until the end of the year, and then
taken into a greenhouse temperature, a fair
supply may be obtained through the months of
February and March, when outdoor Parsley is
generally scarce.—J. C. C.

Asparagus beds in autumn.— Many
cultivators, especially of small gardens, give the
best and ample attention to their Asparagus
beds and plantations in spring and throughout
the early part of the season, but when autumn
comes round care is relaxed, and, as a rule, the
beds become an intricate mass of weeds. A weedy
Asparagus bed is no uncommon thing ; indeed,
very often the Asparagus quarters are the
dirtiest in the garden, as for some reason or
other weeds do grow more luxuriantly in them
than anywhere else. All the more attention,
therefore, should be devoted to weeding and hoe¬
ing them, and it is work of this kind which
should not be neglected on any account at the
present time. It is too often the case that when
growth seems to be stopped it is considered that
no further attention is needed, but after full
growth comes the ripening, and in the case of
Asparagus in particular this is of the ut¬
most importance, as no matter how high and
finely developed the stem may be, unless the
successional crowns are thoroughly matured in
autumn, the plants will go backward in the
ensuing year and will fail to give satisfaction.
We frequently force Asparagus roots in
November, and it is astonishing how freely they
yield to warmth at that unnatural season. We
have, indeed, cut good heads in three weeks
after the roots were lifted, but I am of opinion
that success is mainly due to having the crowns
thoroughly ripened. To ensure this being
properly accomplished, the surface of the ground
around the crowns should be kept perfectly free
from weeds, and the Dutch hoe should be care¬
fully used now and then to open and loosen up
the surface. If thoroughly cleansed now, weeds
will not grow rapidly afterwards. If inclined
to take possession by-and-bye, this should be
prevented, as the crowns cannot become
properly matured unless the surface is kept
clean until the stems have completely died
down.—J. M.

Flies and insects in Mushroom
houses. — These are common during hot
weather, especially in Mushroom houses above
the ground level. The best preventive is
thorough cleanliness ; also avoid having any-
tliing in the house or near the beds to attract
flies. Material for a new bed will do this in
hot weather. Keeping the surroundings moist
will alar* cause them to be less troublesome. We
are not troubled at all in this respect, our beds
being all in cool cellars below the ground level.
OurMushrooms turn out now beautifully fresh
and of good colour. Should the insects con¬
tinue to give annoyance a dilution of carbolic
add sprinkled near the beds, but not on them,
would, I should think, be beneficial.—J. H.

11743. — Cabbages failing. — A grower
for market stated in my hearing the other day
that if someone could find a cure for the maggot
1 ;ad grub in the roots of Cabbages his fortune
Uould be made. There is no way of destroying
[tte maggots without also killing the plants.
The way to prevent it for another year is to
t.iice a good dressing of gas lime all over the
*iface of the ground and dig it in. It will not
* to put out any plants on it for some time
ier, as the gas lime is poisonous stuff. It
Us grubs and plants at the same time. When
has been in the ground for two or three
•aths its injurious properties are sufficiently
nkened to allow of the plants growing. It
‘iait right to say that even this caustic agent
‘sot airways au effectual antidote for maggots
grubs.— J. D. E.

isy culture of Mushrooms.— Anyone not
convenience for making up beds specially for the
may obtain a good supnlS' fft>m Cucumber, ijdarrow,
Qrajfeer beds, by inserting a few piofeek >f j|ai|iihu'ofond
of the same at oncat^ttopply Usci<ig skieral
*=«£* may be had In the above manner.—F. (T

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 234 .J

The Raspberry.

The Raspberry renews itself from its base
annually, and, besides the shoots which spring
directly from the crown, it sends forth on all
sides underground stems which cast off' suckers
that are commonly used for increase of stock ;
but only enough of these suckers to meet
requirements should be permitted to remain, as
they have an exhausting tendency. With au
established plantation the usual plan is to hoe
up all suckers except those near the lines of
plants, and only a limited number of these
should be left. Raspberries may be raised from
seeds, and it is best to sow in pans in a frame,
and transplant when large enough. Few people
give any attention to this matter, but it is
worth some consideration, as the Raspberry,
like all other fruits, is capable of improve¬
ment. To save seeds select the finest fruits,
and separate the seeds from the pulp by
squeezing and washing. Dry them in the
air in a cool room, and place in a drawer till
March, and then sow in a gentle warmth in
frame. Raspberries treated in this way soon
bear fruit; there is no long period of waiting
to know results.

Soil and Situation.

The position of the Raspberry quarter should
be cool and moist, and this being au indigenous
fruit, growing wild in woodland districts, seems
to suggest the inference that partial shade is
desirable. But though as a matter of fact they
will grow in the shade of other plants or trees,
the best results are obtained where nothing
overhangs, and they will not fruit freely unless
they receive plenty of light and air.

New Plantations

May be made any time during autumn and
winter, and the suckers or the young plants
should be lifted from the old plantation early
and be laid in till opportunity serves to
plant them, but this should not be later
than the first week in March. In the mean¬
time the ground should be well prepared
by trenching, digging in plenty of manure, for
Raspberries are gross feeders, and the question
of manure is an important one on dry, porous
soils. It will be an advantage, if Raspberries
must be planted in a dry, porous soil, to prepare
trenches or lines by digging in a larger quantity
of manure along the site of the rows, adding
some clay or heavy loam if it can be obtained.
Training.

The best way is to plant in rows G feet apart,
and from 1 to 2 feet apart in the rows, according
to the strength of tne plants. The first year
the plants should be cut down to 1 foot. If the
canes were strong a light crop will be obtained
the first year, and a better one the second year,
and the third the plantation will be at its best.
They will require no training the first year, butthe
second a number of stout stakes should be driven
in 10 feet apart, and 4£ above ground. A couple
of wires should bo strained from end to end of
the rows, and secured by nails or small staples
to each stake. The upper wire will run along
the top of the stakes, and the lower one about
halfway up. To these wires the canes will be
tied with bits of the Golden Willow, and be
shortened back within an inch or two of the top
wire. There are other ways of training; but
the most wasteful one, I think, is the old-
fashioned plan of tying the canes in a bundle
with a stake in the midst. But those who
cannot obtain stakes may obtain a fair crop
without any training. The field crops are mostly
grown so. The rows should be planted 4 feet
apart, and the canes be pruned back to 3 feet.
In the course of a year or two after this system
is adopted, if the young canes are well
thinned out in summer, they will acquire
such strength as to be virtually self-supporting.
Another way is to leave the canes the full
length, and form them into arches by reaching
the canes from opposite stools till they meet,
and are secured in the centre, forming an arch.
In windy districts they are occasionally dis¬
lodged, but on the whole fair results are
obtained.

Top-dressing and Watering.

There should be no digging in the ordinary
meaning of the term among Raspberries. The

surface should be stirred up with a fork in
March, to correct its acidity and closeness, and
as soon as the dry weather sets in, early in June,
top-dress with manure, and give an occasional
watering to help to swell off the fruit to a good
size. Watering adds size and weight to the
fruit, though it does not improve the flavour of
ripening fruit. Raspberries will live and bear
fruit for a considerable number of years in one
position, but I have never yet known an
instance where it did not pay to transplant at
least every ten years, and, in some instances, it
lias been advantageous to move at shorter in¬
tervals. When moved frequently there is no
cessation of fruit bearing. It is only when
they remain too long in one place that a new
plantation takes several years to establish itself.
In moving Raspberries at frequent intervals
they are taken up and moved to the place
assigned. The canes are thinned out aud
shortened to 2 feet, which will permit of a
good crop being gathered the first year, aud
leave plenty of surplus strength in the plauta
to grow good canes for the following year.
When brought into a system of rotation the
Raspberry is much more manageable than when
allowed to continue for long periods on one
piece of ground. It is very important that the
young canes be thinned out to a reasonable
number in summer. In all systems of training
or management this should be done.

Raspberries in Autumn.

The autumn bearing kinds should be cut down
to the ground every winter, as they bear on the
young wood. If the old canes are left they
will probably lose their autumy bearing cha¬
racter, because the crop which the old canes
would bear in summer would exhaust them.
The autumn bearing Raspberries should be
planted on a dry warm site, but the soil should
be deep and in good condition. They may be
planted in rows from 4 feet to 5 feet apart, and
2 feet from each other in the row. On some
soils they do uot need support, as the growth
made is short-jointed, and strong. The best crop
of autumn Raspberries I have ever seen were
in Norfolk, on rather sandy soil. I have the same
varieties here, but they don’t do nearly so well.

Varieties.

For Summer : Carter’s Prolific, Cornwall’s
Victoria, Falstaff, Semper Fidelis, Red Antwerp,
Yellow Antwerp. For Autumn: Belle de
Fontenay, October Red, October Yellow.

Blackberries.

Of late years the American Blackberries have
attracted some attention, and probably are
destined to win more favour when better known
and understood. It is true they have not up to
the present time succeeded everywhere, but
hitherto they have scarcely had a fair trial. To
do them justice they require a good depth of
good soil, and plenty of room to ramble, and
they also need supports. The best way to train
and manage them is to create a special site for
them, manuring it well, and digging it deeply.
When the plants get strong (which will not be
the|first year), erect a fence to train them to
8 feet or so high. When the plants get strong
and bear freely, a mulching of manure will be
beneficial. Plant 2 feet apart. They are best
planted in single rows in some sunny spot.
They may be used to form a boundary screen
in not too prominent a position. They are
easily propagated by suckers and layers. The
Lawson is the best known variety at the present,
but others will doubtless be introduced or raised.
It is liable to injury from late frosts, but the
same risks have to be run in the case of all
hardy open air fruits. E. Hobday.

Ants’ nests. —A friend of mine who ha9
been much troubled lately with axts’ nests in
his Grass fields, which are on a sandy soil,
destroys them in the following manner:—He
opens the nests with a spade, and pours in a
mixture of pearl-ash and liquid manure of about
the consistency of thick cream. One application
is sufficient. He first tried pearl-ash and water,
but was obliged to use it twice before the ants
were destroyed. I should recommend anyone
who is troubled with ants in greenhouses, &c.,
to try the effect of pouring some of this mixture
into their nests, It would, _o_f coarse have to
be made more fluid, and I imagine if used
boiling would be more effective.—G. S IS.

252

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 2, 1884.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

VEITCH’S VIRGINIAN CREEPER.
(ampelopsis veitchi.)

This is one of the most valuable plants for
covering walls which we possess, as it attaches
itself thereto without any nailing or other
fastening. The foliage, too, is a bright shade
of green, and very dense, and the plant is per¬
fectly hardy. In a young state it is not very
rapid as regards growth, but when once
established its rate of progress is much quicker,
the slender shoots, studded at regular distances
apart with bright green leaves, pushing away
several feet in a season. If it is desired to cover
a wall, and the plants are of th$ size usually
sold—viz., about a yard high, and slender in
growth—they should be planted somewhat
thickly,especially if immediate effect is required.
In this latter case they may be put in about
18 inches apart, and secured to the wall by a
few nails—a support which will be necessary
till young shoots are produced, when they will
attach themselves firmly to the bricks by means
of the small sucker-like protuberances with
which they are furnished. In this way, if large
plants are removed, all that is necessary is to
fasten them in their places till the first season’s
growth secures them in the ordinary way. I
was compelled to remove some large plants two
years ago, and as their roots were principally in
brick rubbish at the foot of the wall I was in no
way sanguine as to the result. However, I took
up the plants (four in number) as carefully as
possible. Even then, however, it was necessary
to sacrifice some of the roots, and those that
romained seemed very small in proportion to
the branches. These latter were stripped from
the wall without damage, the plants removed to
their new* quarters, planted carefully, and sup¬
plied with water during the following summer ;
the result exceeded my anticipations. It would
now be impossible to tell that the plants had
ever been shifted. This habit of securing itself
to whatever support is near gives this Virginian
Creeper an advantage over its stronger growing
ally, which to cover a wall requires in the first

S lace to be secured thereon ; but when that is
one, the long drooping branches arrange them¬
selves in a very graceful manner. In the case
of Veitch’s Ampelopsis, however, the wall is
covered with a dense mass of foliage.

This Ampelopsis, after it has attained a large
size, sometimes produces foliage that differs alto¬
gether from that usually found on it. In some
cases, indeed, it is as large as that of a Grape Vine
and deeply lobed. Such an occurrence is
singular, as no one would take the large lobed
leaves and the small ordinary foliage to belong
to the same plant; but if cuttings with only
large leaves are struck, the young growth pro¬
duced therefrom is of the ordinary character.
A good example as regards the difference in the
foliage is shown in the temperate house at
Kew. A pretty effect is produced by planting
this Ampelopsis and one of the smaller Ivies
in such a way that their branches become inter¬
mixed. In that case the Ivy furnishes the
wall in winter, when the Ampelopsis is
without leaves, and in summer the foliage
of the other becomes more prominent than
that of the Ivy. This Ampelopsis strikes
readily from cuttings if taken off during
winter. Cut the shoots into pieces about
6 inches long, and put them in pots of sandy
soil. About a dozen in a 5-inch pot is a good
useful number, and they will require to be kept
close in a cold frame till rooted. Cuttings will
also root if put in the open ground, but in that
case it is necessary to employ stouter shoots for
the purpose, and it is not always possible to
obtain them. The young shoots may be taken
during the summer and treated in the same way
as those of Fuchsias, when they will soon root.
They are more susceptible of damp than
Fuchsias are, but, with a little attention to
obviate this, few will be lost. Take the
cuttings as early in the summer as possible ;
they may be potted off when rooted, and will
make good little plants by autumn. They will
strike readily enough now, but in that case it
is better when rooted to leave them undis¬
turbed till early spring ; then pot them off, and
plant them out as the season advances. This
Ampelopsis is also known and frequently met
with under the namf r ~oF v Viti8 tricu^flidaia.

Digitized b

n Qy5 8tri gf^; P .

Hydrangea paniculata gran diflora.—
This is one of the most beautiful and useful of
all the Hydrangeas. Its leaves are narrow and
of a pale green colour. It grows very freely,
and under good culture will make many shoots
from 1 foot to 3 feet in length in one season.
The flowers, which are prqdueed at the end of
each shoot, come in large panicles, frequently a
foot in length. On strong shoots the flowers
stand quite erect, but on weakly ones they
droop. At first their colour is a rich cream,
then they become as white as snow. As a pot
plant or an open-air subject for the flower
garden and pleasure grounds we hardly know
of anything to surpass this Hydrangea. When
grown in a 6-inch pot it will produce from six
to a dozen of its massive spikes, and it is quite
suitable for the very choicest kinds of decora¬
tion. It is capable of being used with the
greatest advantage in the flower garden. Last
autumn it was very conspicuous in several of
the beds at Drumlanrig, and since then I have
seen it used with excellent effect in the same
way in several instances. It is very hardy, too,
and will bear a great deal of frost without
injury. Some plants of it turned out in the
open last winter had soon to bear a great deal
of severe weather, including 18 degs. of frost,
and we were greatly afraid they would be killed,
but when spring came they started into growth
again quite freely ; since then they have pro¬
duced blossoms at the apex of every branch.
Although well supplied with the ordinary
Hydrangea here, having some plants which have
borne as many as 900 blooms at one time, we
have plenty of space in which to grow, and
reason to admire, this one, which we regard as
one of the best and richest of all our beautiful
flowering shrubs.—J. M., Glamorganshire.

ROSES.

Roses running wild in shrubberies.

—The training and priming of Roses are both
useful for the development of individual blooms
to the highest perfection ; but it will hardly be
denied that the more either are practised the
less picturesque the Rose trees or bushes will
become. To give them a chance of showing
what they are capable of in landscape, plant a
few such Roses as Chas. Lawson, Coupe de
Hebe, Madame Plantier, Aim^e Vibert,
Cheshunt Hybrid, Gloire de Bordeaux, Ch6n6-
dole, Blairi No. 2, Dundee Rambler, Queen of
the Belgians, at wide distances apart in rich
soil, and with sufficient room they will grow
into such things of fragrance and beauty as if
the very spirit of the Rose were let loose in our
shrubberies.—T. F.

11721.—Rose not blooming.— Strong growing
climbing Roses often do not flower for two or three years
after planting ; but when they exhaust the soil somewhat,
and do not make quite such gross wood, they make up for
lost time. These Roses should not be much pruned,
merely shortening back the leading shoots a little, and
cutting out weakly branches is all they need.—J. C. B.

-The best way to do with a vigorous growing Rose

that does not flower is to bud on to it some free-flowering
variety or varieties. Gloire de Dijon and the climbing
Captain Christy are very beautiful light-coloured varieties.
Cheshunt Hybrid is the best deep rose-coloured kind. Put
the buds on vigorous young growths near the base of the
tree.—J. D. E.

Pure white Roses.— The following are the names of
the finest pure white Roses—viz., Baron de Maynard,
Boule de Neige, Jules Finger, Madame Francois Pettit,
Madame Norman, Aimee Vibert, Clara Stravens, Comtesse
de Limerick, Perfection des Blanches, Queen of the
Belgians, Rampant, Bennett’s Seedling.

HOUSE <b WINDOW GARDENING-.

Francoa ramosa. —This makes an excel¬
lent window plant, and very beautiful is a well-
grown specimen, with its pure white branched
spikes from 3 feet to 5 feet high. I find it goes
by the very appropriate name of Bridal Wreath,
and certainly a more beautiful w-reath than a
spray of this lovely plant it would be difficult
to imagine ; it is readily increased from seed or
by cuttings, and only needs the protection of a
glass roof in winter, as it may be grown out of
doors from the time it ceases flowering until
October. If the seed is sown as soon as ripe in
the autumn, and the seedlings grown od in single
pots, they will produce one branched spike the
first year, but if shifted into larger pots, so as
to get several crowns, everyone will produce
fine spikes of bloom. A most beautiful object
when well grown.—G.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11755.—Keeping plants from draught.

—The light calico shading would be sufficient.
Cocoanut fibre would blow about when it became
dry and make a mess of the flowers, leaves, and
everything in the greenhouse. If the pots are
packed too full of roots the plants would dry
up rather too much in the day, but this can be
avoided by repotting them into larger pots.
The ventilators at present ought to be open
night and day. The plants would in that case
get greatly refreshed by the damp night air.—
J. D. E.

11725.—Fly on Pansies.— This fly does
great injury to the plants if allowed to spread.
When the plants are attacked out of doors the
best way is to thoroughly dust them with
Tobacco powder. Plants in pots can be dipped
in soft soapy water, or they can be fumigated in
frames. Perhaps the best thing to do with
plants badly infested would be to take cuttings,
which could be cleansed completely from the
fly by dipping them in the soapy water. When
the fly has been destroyed wash the cuttings in
clean rain-water and plant in the usual way.—
J. D. E.

11698.— Plants after blooming.— Being,
as you say, a novice, you will have to gain your
knowledge of plant culture by degrees. Each

E l ant varies in its nature and requirements, but
y keeping record of each cultural detail which
may appear from time to time in Gardening
concerning such plants as you wish to grow you
will in time gain good practical knowledge of
them. The following hints may, however, prove
of service :—Plants having hard wood, such as
Coronillas, Cytisuses, Acacia, Heaths, &c., must
be cut back to below the flowers, and when they
have made shoots some 2 inches in length they
may be shifted if they are root bound.
Azaleas and Camellias do not require priming,
but simply to be encouraged to make new
growths by keeping them moist at the roots and
syringing the foliage twice a day in hot weather.
Abutilons should be cut back rather hard, but
summer blooming plants, such as Petunias,
Calceolarias, Lobelias, &c., will keep on flower¬
ing through the season by pickingoff the faded
flowers and watering liberally. The principal
points are to give plenty of air and see that the
soil in the pots does not become too dry.—J. C.
Byfleet.

11750.— Keeping plants in attic.— The
south window is certainly the best to keep
plants in during the winter, as there they get
most light, and benefit by the sunshine in the
early spring months. What you have to do is
to arrange the stage as near to the w-indow as

S ossible, and admit air freely on fine or mild
ays through the late autumn and winter. In
frosty weather a thick mat or something similar
must be placed to keep frost from entering, and
then with attention, in the way of keeping the
plants clean and free from decaying leaves, and
great care in watering, Geraniums, Fuchsias,
and other soft-wooded plants may successfully
be brought through in very fair condition.
There is one great advantage in keeping plants
in winter in a room : they are less liable to
damp, the atmosphere being drier, owing to the
freedom from drip. Do not put the plants
under cover before the beginning of October
unless there is an appearance of sharp frosts,
and then it is better to protect in the open, as
frosts in September seldom last more than two
or three nights.—J. C. B.

11771.— Improving flowers.— To bring flowers to
their highest point of development they must get good
culture. Your Forget-me-Nots have probably suffered
from the prolonged drought, hence the small size of the
blooms. They like fairly rich soil and plenty of moisture
at the roots.—J. C. B.

11742.—Fly on Chrysanthemums.— The plants
will bo effectually crippled if the parasites are not
destroyed. They usually cluster thickly on the points of
the shoots. A good plan is to take the shoots in the hand,
and with a pepper-box dust amongst them with Tobacco
powder. It they are dwarf plants with numerous
shoots, the best way would be to syringe with Totmcco
water or soft, soapy water strong enough to kill them.
— J. D. E.

11761. — Fertilising Tomatoes. — The fruits of

(Mbana-champaign

August 2, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

.4.—Lomaria gibba is not a British Fern, and would 11801.—Mushrooms. -1 am about making Mush- under surface quite smooth ; but our doubt is whether to

certainlv be disquaUfled if exhibited as such.- A. A. It. room beds under glass-beds 4 feet wide, pathway relay the coarse turf and trust to constant rolling and

-Messrs. Bair k Sons, 12, King Street, Covent Garden, between. Which is the better way-viz., to make them mowing for getting the Grass fine and the ground smooth,

_ Market Gardener —“ The London Market Gardens,” up simply on the ground, or to make a trench, place or to reject the turf altogether and sow the court thickly

brC W. Shaw will probably suit you. It is published by boarding across, and make the beds on this boarding? I with the best Grass seeds. It has been suggested to lay
Boutledge and Co —II. J.-Use the bran drv without have thought the heat will be retained longer in this way. back the coarse turf upside down, roll well, and then sow
anv preparation.- 0. L .—You had better consult some Shall I gain anything by using the boarding?—K. K. K. the Grass seed, thinking the old Grass might give an

br C. W. Shaw, will probably suit you. It is published by boarding across, and make the beds on this boarding ( i

Boutledge and Co.- II. J .—Use the bran dry without have thought the heat will be retained longer in this way.

any preparation.- O. L .—You had better consult some Shall I gain anything by using the boarding?— K. K. K.

experienced gardener in your neighbourhood. We cannot 11802.— Vegetable Marrows.—Will someone tell

safely advise you from the specimen sent- J. J .—The me wb y the blossoms fall off my Marrow’s? They are

Antirrhinums sent are fairly good, but we see nothing un- g nc an d healthy plants and large* blossoms, but all fall

common about them.- G. W. 11 .—The double Gunter- 0 fy t a nd there is no fruit. The same occurred last year—

bury Bell sent is common, and is known os the variety Strokestown.

I._Will someone tell elastic, good basis for the new'. Would this be of any use ?

Calycanthema. -

P. — We think you must have I

. whylhe bloSSil M Jrow.? They are I am aware that the— t and, I^ehev.^most effectual

ic and healthy plants and large blossoms, but all (all plan would be to reject the coarao field turt and have nice
r ^rr a ' r ° frUit occurred,.* year.-

rokesto n. a good court I should be glad to know- it. 1 should not

11803.— Peas turning yellow. —I have three rows m j nd spending from £12 to .£14. Any experiences on this

rrnnnM \our vines too heavily in former vears and this bsw.—reas turning yenuw.-i mind spending from £12 to £14. Any

^therSiwh toev tear no Sthista? The of Peas * which came u P ve J y and ' 2* JUS 5 subject woultfbe valuable.-E. A. C.

after they began to pod have toned, quite yellow, and

berries sent are improperly fertilised, and this is probably p ™ ey properly grown. I used _

the^woocTta ^autumn**” the galvanisedtrellises. Is it possiSo the lightning has

S-At C Geo%c Neighbour ft Sons, High affected them, or can anyone account for it other- BEES.

Holborn, London. See our advertisement columns. wise.— j. .

Names, of plants.—£. amoud.-Stachy, l-ata. ^redl?o^h^@tNo"or i^Hugf SEASONABLE NOTES.

- Pt {f r Pjticrsoji.—We received note but no flowers.- and must Carnations be removed from beds where they Thk present season has hitherto been most

R. A. We cannot name soft fruits like Strawberries. i_ ,.. *i-— r».uh hoHu? Alar, „ 1 , , , . T _ •

BEES.

SEASONABLE NOTES.

- Pcier Paterson ,—We received note but no flow’crs. and must Carnations be removed from beds where they

B. aV. E.-Wc cannot name soft fruits like Strawberries. have becn for thrce or f OU r years into fresh beds? Also,

favourable to the bee-keeper. In many in¬
stances immense quantities of surplus honey
have been obtained, and the Bee and honey

They are usually smashed to a jelly when they reach us. would it kill old plant8 to remove them, or would it do to I{ * . w xne ll€e *^ e P er - ,' /

They should be given fresh to some gardener m your leave them wbore they arc and manure them well?—A stances immense quantities oi surplus honey

neighborhood.- IV. Cover.—I, Alchomilla (species); 2, constant Reader. have been obtained, and the Bee and honey

SSfcSSBa. 11805.—Pinks, Carnations and Panslee^vm shows now taking place throughout the country

nu. We do not undertake to name varieties of Coleus, anyone kindly let me know if Pansy plants must be are being well supplied with beautlfnl white-

The Nasturtiums were withered on arrival.- F. T. II.— moved to a n £wbed every’autumn, and if Pink:s must be com b honey, stored in neat sectional boxes,

I, Jfeldotus officinalis ; 2, Epilobium hirsutum (a weed) ; moved to fresh beds after being ;n their present beds for one iound each Dresentinc a most in-

3L CEnothera biennis J Turnmnn —Orchid is Schom- three or four years. 1 wish to know if beds for Pansies, holding one pound eacn, presenting a most m

barghia crispa ; otheT^lant is Cyrtodeira fulgida.- Pinks, and Carnations should be manured ?-A Constant viting appearance, as well as run or extracted

Morrison. —1, Tradeseantia virginica; 2, Gnaphalium mar- Reader. honey, in small, clear, glass jars. The demand

garitaccum ; 3, Lythrum Salicaria ; 4, Biota orientals.- 11806.—Wire Pea supports.—Is there anything for pure unadulterated English honey is rapidly

Constant Render.—1 , Viburnum Opulus; 2. Tamarix gallica ; made of wire as a substitute for sticksfor supporting Peas? : nn *«\ncr and W kepninu is becoming Quite an
3, Spiraea Nobteana; 4, Leycesteria fomiosa. We cannot If so, will anyone who has tried it tell me if it answers ?- increasing, and bee-keeping is becoming quite an

came more than four plants at onetime.- R. IF.—We j. L. important item in rural economy.

cannot name varieties of Coleus.- Subscriber (Rich- 11807.— Destroying Horse-radish— We have an Honey FOR EXHIBITION.— In exhibiting honey

11805.— Pinks, Carnations, and Pansies.— Will shows now taking place throughout the country
anyone kindly let me know if Pansy plants must be are being well supplied W’ith beautifml white-

honey, stored in neat sectional boxes,
three or four years. I wish to know if beds for Pansies, holding one pound each, presenting a most in-

honey, in small, clear, glass jars. The demand
for pure unadulterated English honey is rapidly

important item in rural economy.

cannot name varieties of Coleus.- Subscriber (Rich- H807.—Destroying Horse-radish.—We have an Honey FOR EXHIBITION.— In exhibiting honey

mood).— 1, Specimen insufficient to name ; 2, Athyrium orcbard part of which is overrun with Horse-radish ; will a t shows care should be taken that all entries

™ S Tr^u^M^ IrKS present as neat and attractive appearance as
again ; 2, Campanula celtidifolia; 3, Apparently Coronilla d jrrrrj n £ but still it comes up —J L possible. Sections should be placed in glazed

SS&LJT GcJy e ra r -^nT th 2 e nm-Insecta eating Carnations, &c.-My crates, or be glazed on either side the glass

Eriophorum palustris ; £ Narthccto i, Carnation,, ricotece,Piuks Sweet Willhuns and a few ol being SO attached that it can be easily removed

Pamassia palustris.-Monstrous Foxglove (A. L. Francis). the Wallflowers arc infested with what I call a grub. It f or the examination of the honey by the judges.

—The specimen you send is a common occurrence among burrows in the leaves, and its presence is flret noticed by g ^ ifci 8 preferable to use travelling crates which,

SSEtl tLV- by the fU8i0n °' 8et0ral fl0Wer8>t S^S’Sa.'RSSS zl SSSJ i?£3ft being glLed on two sides, pntj the contents
v contain sometimes a yellow’ grub, and at other times a from dust and robber bees. Sections should be

- black one. How do these grubs get there ? I have never well fi u ed a u t b e cells being sealed, and the

QUERIES. ^rc^“tftK^^?e^^ r thigVb n i. inside'tho surfaces of combs quite even Evenness of sur-

- substance of the leaf. They quite spoil the plants. What face is attained by the use of dividers between

Rnlee for Correspondents.— AU communications can 1 do to prevent them getting into the leaves, and, the section boxes while the bees are working in

for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one when there, to get rid of them? Sicnare. them. These dividers allow quarter of an inch

side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters H809.-Sweet Williams and Wallflowers.— to n anf i bottom for the nassace of the bees
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and Should Sweet Williams and Wallflowers that have bloomed t°p and DOWO . p . ® i’

address of the sender is required, in addition to any noia this vear for the first time be taken up and thrown away, and all bulgings and projections are obviated,
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries or will they bloom well next year?— M. R. P. Thinness of capping is considered one of the chief

again ; 2, Campanula celtidifolia; 3, Apparently Coronilla

\aria ; 4, Chelone barbata.- J. Weaver .—CEnanthe

crocata.- R. R. Nairn. -1, Goodyera repens ; 2,

Eriophorum palustris; 3, Narthecium ossifragum ; 4,

ParnassiA palustris.-Monstrous Foxglove^ A. L. Francis).

—The specimen you send is a common occurrence among

QUERIES.

and all bulgings and projections are obviated.
Thinness of capping is considered one of the chief

should always bear the number and title qf the. Query 11810.— Culture of Endive.—I have a very good bed points of perfection in super-honey; sections
f ngv * red : more than one query is sent each should 0 f Endive plants ; I shall be obliged if someone will tell should, therefore, be removed from the hive

Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again
Naming 1 plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when good

mro o~nt U r a /in nni .! t, a Art ..V., __ __^

ensure good winter salads, as hitherto we have always nnmcuiauciy uu wuipuuuu, xTt* *
failed after the plants have arrived at this stage.— Walter of the cells is thickened by the bees. Ine honey
Cottley. in the comb should, when held to the light,

11811.—Plants bare at bottom.—I have some present an amber colour, and be transparent
Perennial Phloxes, and also some Southern-W’ood bushes, an( j bricht Whiteness of comb is also an
the bottom leaves of which turn brown and shrivel up ._ . ° »-n OC r,r, xx-bxr

StfZS 7, -d ZTon, leaving about 12 iSsstoms'S13 important feature, and is another reason why

ntum *! 'fffkas, the soil quite bare and unsightly. The ground was well sections should not be left on the hive after
iuthe»e can onlybe correctly named by a specialist who u-nm _.f end dm

as these can only be correctly named by a specialist who
hu the means of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to name should Always
accompany the parcel.

manured last autumn when they were planted, and had being finished off. The heat of the hive and the
aslight mulching of half-rotted staWo manure during t ^ f the bee8 over it BOon 8poils the
winter, which was forked m in the spring; they also had a “tr - ., u c? a- • u u:u:4-

good soaking of soot water twice a week during the hot whiteness of the comb. Sections in each exhibit

weather. What can I do with them to make them keep - 1 - 1J - —— :U1 ^ — 4, " v * ***’*' 1 “

their foliage green down to the bottom?—S icnarf.

weather. What can I do with them to make them keep should, as near as possible, match in style

11794. —Strawberries In frames.-Will someone n o, work >. and ? oIoar - p™“ ul f 10n

kindly tell me, if Strawberry runners are put into ^ Wallflowers spotted.— I have a bed of G { honey in the comb may be prevented by keep-

Cocumber frames, how they will grow and bear fruit next "allflowers planted out, the leaves of which are all j nc jt in a somewhat warm temperature after re-

S“ ra %^Kstr erent 80il 10 that “ hiCh the XcS i h r, the MTS. Run o r P extracted honey

2- Mushrooms to cellars. -I would ice. SS& L"wXle toho^whei mied Sly

obliged^ if some one would inform me how to grow Mush- an J the y have been well attended as regards watering. WhlCh are , now ™ aae to nol «» ^ nilea » exac ^y

ODiigeu ii some one would mtorm me how to grow Mush- an d thev have been well attended as regards watering, , , . i r i „ ilA

rooms m ccHars, whether on the floor or m boxes, and ^ I have examined them frequently, and have one pound and two pounds of honey, so that
what kind of soil is required. Any information will greatly UCV er been able to find any insects or slugs in them or weighing can be entirely dispensed with. Each
oauge.— JsElly. caterpillar. What is the cause and remedy? The soil is bottle should have an attractive label affixed to

11T&6.— Vines not ft-uiting. -About four years ago not considered really good. Will manuring and well .. i j own with vegetable parchment

I made *a new vine border of turf, manure, bone dust, working poor soil make it good ?— Sicnarf. ant * ^ ie< ^ cl ° £ P

Ac., outside a lean-to house, facing south-east, and planted H813.-Lilium auratum falling. -I planted this u ^ ^ uu» u««u.

five yoong vines three Black Hamburg, two Sweet- spring in tho open border a quantity of Lilium auratum EXTRACTING HONEY.— By the use of the honey
T ” c B l. ack . Bftmb V rp8 have , ncv «r. frui , te( , at a11 ’ bulbs. They came up strong and healthy, but after extractor honey can be removed from the combs

without Injury to ^

covered with manure all the winter. The leaves were cut buds also turned brown, and eventually they also dropped, returned to the hl\e to be refilled by the bees,
back in the following year after planting as they were Can anyone tell me what is the matter with the plants? I which causes a great saving of labour to them
tiirn«l out of pots after they had started into growth, have examined some of the bulbs, and they appear to be i n comb building. It also involves a saving of
A '!-y. h ! ,p “*»« aO 0 e ? teble -r S : W - sound. Some bulbs ol Lilium UnoitoUum plated with L„ to be uon.nS.ed

five yoong vines, three Black Hamburg, two Swect-

if glass stoppers are not used.

Extracting honey. —By the use of the honey

back in the following year after planting as they were Can anyone tell me what is th(
turned out of pots after they had started into growth. have examined some of the hi;
Any help in the matter would be acceptable.-S. W. sound Some bulbs of Liliun

11797.— Plants for small garden. —Will someone them appear all right.—F. F.

them appear all right?—F.* f! m C ° P Wlth honey, as large quantities have to be consumed

give me a list of plants#that wTli grow year after year n 8 l4. -Dividing bulbs.- How often ought such in the production of wax. By extractmg, more

without much attention in my garden, which is small ? bulbg M Gladiolus, Wntsonia, Ixia, Sparaxis. Tritonia, &c., room is given for brood-raising, for sometimes
Alro tHe proper time to plant them. Is it possible to get to betaken up and divided ? 1 find three years too long to in a good honey season the brood department
_ . , let them alone, because the bulbs get so thick and small becomes so full of honey that no empty cells are

11/93.— Best Strawberries and Raspberries.— that they scarcely flower the fourth year. Lilium parda- L’ v f r . lp *

Will any reader let me know what varieties of Straw- linum is showing bloom. The plants are about 8 feet available for the queen to deposit eggs in. Extract-
berries and Raspberries they have found most suitable for high, and have about thirty blooms on astern. They have mg also stimulates the bees to greater activity,
a light soil, situated near a river and facing south ?—J. G. been three years out. Ought they to be taken up this The frames of comb to be extracted should
TB-.-rtBR. autumn ? There are about twenty stems to a square yard. (after having puffed a little smoke into the hive

11799.— Repair!ner crardon hose. — Is there anv — South Devon. _, ,, ... -Lx i _,„,i „ ji _

Trotter.

11799.— Repairing garden hose.— Is there any
of joining lengths of garden hose except by the in-
•ertion of metal unions ?—R. B. S.

(after having puffed a little smoke into the hive
under the quilt) be removed, and the adhering
bees brushed or shaken off back into the hive.

iv of joining lengths of garden hose except by the in- 1181 5. -White variety of Black Currant- LTi?

rtion of metal unions?—R. B. S. Can any correspondent tell me if they have ever had or bees brushed or shaken on back into the hive.

118QD. —Fruit trees for north border. — What seen a w h ite variety of the Block Currant ? I have one The caps of the honey cells must then be taken

■e the best fruits to grow on a wide north border 75 feet bush, which I got from a friend, who found it in an old 0 ff with an uncapping knife, and the combs

by 6 feet wide? I knew Morello Cherries and Black common garden. The fruit in appearance is exactly like the i j : n revolving canes of the extractor in

(SSanto will do, but will any other sort of the former- White Currant, but the flavour of tho fruit as well as the P iace(l l “ the . revolving cages Ol the extractor m

Kentish, for instance ? I have some nice young Apple foliage is unmistakably that of the Black Currant.—B. C. pairs, when by a few turns of the handle the
trees that I should be glad to place there, but fear to kill 11816— Tennis lawn— Will anyone toll me the best honey on one side of the combs is emptied by
them—such ns Lord Sutfleld, Lord Derby, Warner’s King, and least costly way to make a good tennis lawn that may centrifugal force, caused by the revolving

Hawthomdcn, Codlin, Ribston Pippin. Would it be safe be fit for use next year? We have a small Held from which motion Tile cages in which '

Hawthomden, Codlin, Ribston Pippin. Would it be safe be fit for use next vear? We have a small Held from which mn+inn Tho ca.up«i in ivhirh the combs arc
“ I‘Ut UaspbcrriM asd Goosetarics in such an aspect, a little crop of hay has just been cut. The ground is Tw. a? “ ^

*ad could we fairly expect^tt^em to fruit if the fairly level, well drained : the soil, gravel and baud. For P^ ace d aie suspended on pivots at opposite
ground were well manured f _ vi»s fimr ■ . JV I >/»»« ns its ..j »..i.i__ sv. nAsstiAisa i whAn nno aiHn fif tna. wimne

to frqit v^Jl

placed are suspended on pivots at opposite

j the court we propose peeling off tKe and making the | QOiriiets, SQ that w r hon ope side of the corabg

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 2, 1884.

have been extracted from they can be swung
round, which bring the combs in position for
extracting the other sides. When honey is
coming in in large quantities extracting can be
performed every four or five days from the
same comb. Should unfavourable weather set
in, feeding must be attended to with hives that
have been freely extracted from. It is best to
extract from combs containing honey only,
but with care honey can be extracted from
combs partly filled with brood. After bees store
their honey, and before it is sealed over, it is
necessary that it should undergo a process of
ripening, otherwise it would be liable to ferment.
The heat of the hive assists in the ripening
process, and when the superfluous moisture has
been evaporated from the honey the cells are
closed. As, therefore, much sealed and
unsealed honey is often extracted from the
combs at the same time, it is necessary to allow
it to stand for a few days in an open galvanised
vessel in order that the thin, watery, unripe
honey may rise to the top and be removed. If,
however, the honey ripener (a new invention)
be used, honey can be brought into a suitable
condition for bottling without loss of time.

Boxicorth. S. S. G.

POULTRY.

BANTAM FOWLS.

Cochin or Pekin bantams are a very quaint
and pretty breed, being simply buff Cochins in
miniature. The first came from China during
the Anglo-French expedition of 1860, when the
summer palace at Pekin was sacked. A
number of these bantams used to stray into the
officers’ tents, and a pair were seized and sent
home with other “loot.”

Characteristics. —Knowing how game ban¬
tams are bred, it would be reasonable to sup¬
pose, on first sight, that these had been bred
down from buff Cochins. This would, no doubt,
be a long and tedious process, but not an im¬
possibility. In whatever way the race may
have originated, there is no doubt of its
breeding true, and being one of the most
taking novelties of the bantam race. The
shape is the same as Cochins, which they
resemble in every feature. The legs are short—
very short—and heavily feathered to the toes.
They have abundance of fluff, small wings, very
small tail, deep broad breast, back short and
rising towards the tail, comb single and upright.
The carriage, as in Cochins, is not quite up¬
right, but leaning forward ; the colour of the
hen buff or lemon ; the hackles, back, and
wings of the cock a deep yellow ; the under
parts match the colour of the hen. The head
should be small and neat. It is hardly neces¬
sary to say the smaller they are, without
showing any deformity, the better. The breed
is in the hands of a few gentlemen, and has
never become very popular. Why I do not
know, as when shown in the variety class they
alwavs hold a forward place. Some speak of the
breed being very delicate and many of the eggs
sterile, which may have much to do with keep¬
ing the breed from spreading or being reared in
large numbers. In disposition they are quiet,
very tame, and show little desire to roam
about. They make admirable pets, and take
rank amongst the curiosities of the fowl breed.

Black Bantams are one of our oldest and
most popular breeds, although very much im¬
proved in colour, style, &c., of recent years by
crossing with other breeds. For those living in
towns or suburban residences, black bantams are
very suitable ; the smoke and dust, which would
destroy the beauties of a white breed, not being
noticeable on them. The plumage should be
uniformly black, that of the cocks having a
brilliant lustre or sheen, which presents a very
striking effect whem contrasted with the pure
white ear lobe and double crimson comb, which
should be small and well made. The ear lobe
should be pure white, smooth, and flat. The
comb double, broad in fruit, tapering to the
back, which ends in a peak slightly inclining
upwards; it should be farm on the head, quite
flat on the top, and well serrated. The legs
rather short, free of feather, and dark blue in
colour. The head is carried erect, the breast is
broad and prominent, the wings drooping, and
the tail carried gaily, the cock having sickle
feathers. Black bantams are very prolific, and

Digitized by

antams are very pr<

Got >gl<

lay a great number of eggs in a season, which
are of very rich quality. The hens make excel¬
lent mothers, and taking them all in all are
about the most profitable of tho bantam breed.

White Bantams resemble their black
brethren in all but colour, which is a pure and
spotless white. The ear lobes are white, which
have very little effect on account of being the
same colour as the plumage. The Americans
will have nothing but a red ear lobe, which
looks decidedly prettier, and gives the birds a
far more handsome appearance. Compared
with blacks, white bantams are decidedly
inferior, both in appearance and laying qualities.
They have their admirers, though they are
much less numerous than those of blacks, which
now, excepting Game bantams, make the largest
show at our poultry shows.

White-booted Bantams are larger than
other varieties. The plumage should be pure
white; the comb single or double ; the legs
heavy feathered and vulture hocked, otherwise
resembling clean-legged white bantams. This
breed is not very much sought after—not so
much as it should be, when we consider their
many valuable qualities. They are good layers
of small, white eggs, are capital foragers, and
do no harm, but rather a great amount of good,
in a garden. They are not given to scratching,
like other bantams, and may be allowed to
wander through the garden with impunity,
where they destroy many noxious insects which
infest our grounds. Very little room is required
to keep them, and their food would never be
missed where there was a small family.

Scotch Grey or Cuckoo is one of the pretty
races of bantams, their plumage being a
dappled grey or cuckoo colour. They bear the
same relation to Scotch Greys as Pekins do to
the majestic Cochin. The comb is single and
upright, the legs white and free of feathers.
The tail of the cock full and flowing, the
sickles being long and well defined. They are
good layers, and when seen in perfection are
very striking. They have been known and
bred in Scotland for many years, although not
in large numbers.

Japanese Bantams are now very numerous
and popular over both Scotland and England.
The comb is single, breast broad and very pro¬
minent, body short and thick, wings drooping,
and tail squirreled—that is, carried over the
back. The body colour should be white, the
flights of the wing black, the sickle feathers of
the tail black, the shaft of the feather being
white ; legs very short and yellow ; the wattles
long and red. The breed is rather delicate, but,
judging from the number reared, not so deli¬
cate as some breeders would lead us to believe.
Tho carriage of the cock is very conceited, and
from the manner in which he carries his fan¬
shaped tail—the sickles of which have little
curve on them—he is an object of attraction
when exhibited. The chicks breed very true
to their parents, and if kept dry and given good
nourishing and stimulating food are not difficult
to rear.

Feather eating in fowls. —The run should
be thoroughly clean, and a good dust bath pro¬
vided mixed with sulphur. The drinking
vessel should be rinsed out and kept constantly
filled with clean, cold water, amongst which a
pinch of carbonate of potash should be put.
Spratt’s food mixed for the morning meal, a
little raw' or boiled animal food (bullock’s liver
or such like) cut down small at mid-day, and

g ood sound com at night; they should also
ave a good supply of green fooa—lettuces for
choice. The best plan is to tie up a few
lettuces to the roof just within reach of the
fowls, so that they will have some occupation
and be unable to trample any under their feet.
A good dose of Epsom salts, say one pennyworth,
mixed amongst their soft food in the morning,
given twice a week, will also have a marked
result. They should be rather under than over¬
fed. _ P.

Seasonable notes.— The chicken being
now all hatched, the coops should be seen to,
and if not required for the older ones, they
should be cleansed and put away. If wanted
' for chicken roosting or taking shelter in, the
hay or straw should often be removed, and
' replaced with fresh clean bedding. Cockerels
that are not required should be got rid of as

soon as opportunity offers. Young birds that
are beginning to roost should not be allowed to
perch high, or on too small perches, or
crooked breasts will be the results. Old
birds beginning to moult should not be
too generously fed, as a fat bird never moults
well; but after the feathers are off feeding
should be increased, and a little stimulant
added to the food. Good ale, if not given in too
large a quantity or too often, is as suitable
as anything. Old cocks should be separated
from the hens or put in a pen by themselves ;
or, better still, allowed to run with the
cockerels. Early-hatched pullets will have
begun to lay, and will need good feeding. If
size is wanted, the longer laying can be delayed
the better, and for this purpose frequent change
of run, and absence of heating or stimulating
food, is required. Birds which lay early never
make large birds, as they mature too soon. The
age at which pullets lay depends greatly on the
breed, feeding, and climate ; but at six months
most breeds, if well housed and fed, begin to
lay. Young turkeys should be carefully guarded
from wet, and should now be well forward, so
as to be ready to go on the stubbles when the
corn is off the ground. Old hens not intended
to be kept over the winter should be fattened
and disposed of ; and if young stock is required
to be bought in, now is the time to get cheap
and good birds. These, if early hatched and of
a good strain, should lay well before the cold
weather sets in. P.

Plymouth Rocks. —This favourite Ameri¬
can breed of fowl is certainly a very useful all¬
round bird. It is purely a manufactured one,
and we are indebted to American fanciers for its
production, most probably from a cross between
the Cochin and Dorking. But it matters little
what the origin of the bird is, as long as it
continues to prove itself a useful addition to
our poultry yard, which it has undoubtedly
done. Moreover, they can now be bred very
true in plumage and other points. Much im¬
provement has of late years been made by
judicious breeding of Plymouth Rocks. The
first few specimens imported into this country
were of a gaunt, leggy type, but the rocks of
to-day resemble the Dorking in build, being
long on the body, deep-chested, with short
legs—the picture of a table fowl. Their flesh
also is white and firm. They are good layers,
especially in winter, being equal, if not superior,
to the Brahma in this respect. They possess,
likewise, size and handsome plumage, while as for
their vigour and hardiness of constitution, it
has only to be remembered that they stand the
most severe American winter well. The chicken
are very hard, quick growing and feathering.
An amateur commencing poultry keeping, and
desiring a pure bred kind, cannot do better than
invest in a pen of Plymouth Rocks, as they are
so easily looked after and reared that any novice
can undertake their management with success.
In plumage they resemble Cuckoo Dorkings, the
ground colour being a light slate or steel grey,
each feather being evenly crossed with broad
bars of a darker shade of the same colour.
These bars should be clear and well defined
over the entire body. Comb single, small and
firm, neat, well-rounded wattles, well curved
neck, with abundance of hackle. The tail
should be full with well-curved sickles. A
plump prominent breast, and legs short and
stout, and of a bright yellow colour are indis¬
pensable to a perfect bird. A full grown cock
should weigh about 9 lb. to 101b., and a hen
not less than 6 lb. The latter are excellent
mothers and sitters. The eggs from theso fowls
are of good size, and of the desirable yellow
colour.— Andalusian.

Spent Hops. —Brewers’ spent Hops arc in
some places so abundant as to be an important
fertiliser, generally one load being equal to two
of stable manure. But I havo found them most
valuable, when well rotted, for railing into tho
surface of seed beds in which arc raised Cabbage,
Celery, and other garden plants, since they
retain moisture, keep the surface loose and
light, and in every way favourable for the
successful growth of plants. In like manner
they are excellent for any plot where you wish
a most vigorous growth—vegetables for exhibi¬
tion, for instance—since they furnish abundant
fertility, while they keep the soil in the best
condition for growth.—J. R.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

August 2, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

255

MAKING THE MOST OF A SMALL
GARDEN.

How few small gardens do we see where the
most is made from them that the soil is capable
of producing. In many instances weeds are
allowed to rob the growing crop of its nutri¬
ment, and to shed their seeds to increase and to
perpetuate the mischief to succeeding crops.
Seedling plants are let remain so long before
being thinned that they are weakened beyond
recovery, and oftentimes, even when they are
thinned, they are left so close together that
there is not half room enough for their full
development. In numerous cases not only is
the land never trenched, but it is spudded over
with an old worn-out spade that years before
ought to have been thrown away, thereby
losing the peculiar advantage of spade hus¬
bandry. In other instances, crop after crop is
taken from the soil without one thought in the
mind of the cultivator of anything being put
back in return, or how the constant tax on its
resources is to be maintained. Valuable time
is often wasted after a crop is ready to be
cleared off the ground before it is replaced by
another, and in too many instances only one
crop a year is obtained where two should be
secured. I have many times been pained to
see, when walking in the country in autumn
or winter, the bare unoccupied plots in the
peasants’ gardens. Here one would have
thought that necessity would have invented a
better system of cropping; but prejudice and
unreasonable aversion to change were obstacles
too great to be overstepped.

About five-and-twenty years ago a man took
a piece of allotment ground by a village near
me. He was one of those men that do not mind
moving out of the old route if an advantage can
be gained in doing so. Every year as soon as
he saw a few spots of disease on his Potato
haulm he woula plant Cabbage and Broccoli
plants between the ranks. The Potato haulm,
w hilst it was green, shielded the plants from
the rays of the sun whilst they were taking
root, and by the time they were established the
haulm was died down. Every winter this indi¬
vidual had abundance of vegetables, whilst his
neighbours often had little or none. He re¬
tained his piece of land eight years, when he
left the village. But not one of his neighbours
profited by his example, and to this day one and
all in the neighbourhood are content to remain
in the same old groove in which they have run
all their lives and in which their fathers moved
before them. As is usual in such cases, a mole
hill of objection is magnified into a mountain of
difficulty.

In this instance two objections are brougl t
forward—First is, the second crop robs the land ;
an argument that could as reasonably be brought
against cropping the land at all. The advan¬
tage gained from the extra crop would enable
the individual to buy manure to replace what it
had taken from the soil; or, supposing him to
be a long way into the country, where the cost
of carriage makes manure expensive to buy, he
could cut Grass and weeds from the roadside,
which would answer the same end. The second
objection is the extra labour it takes to dig the
Potatoes from betw een the plants ; a small objec¬
tion, indeed, to place in counterpoise to the
solid advantage to a poor man with a family of
having abundance of healthful food at the time
of the year when most food is wanted, and
when, in consequence of expenses incident to the
season, there are less means with which to pur¬
chase it. L. C. K.

Locality and soil. —Why do not your
correspondents give the readers of their notes
some idea of locality when they are speaking on
plants of questionable hardiness? and if they
could also give a hint about the quality of the
soil in which certain plants do better than most
of ns find them to thrive, the value of their
communications would be greatly enhanced.
I more especially refer to the notes of “J. D. E.”
and “ A. F.,” pp. 219-20, on Marguerites. The
former begins by telling us these can be grown in
England as well as France, and refers to a plant
in front of his window' 12 feet round. I confess
that made me envious, because I have seen
nothing of the kind in Yorkshire, and my
expectations were cut off w'hen no idea could be
gleaned as to where these desirable flowers
grow so finely out of-doofs. We loidwjrery

Digitized by VjjQOQlt:

well that the conditions favouring, or otherwise,
the growth of flowers may vary as much in
different parts of England as in France and
England; and I am sure I must only be
expressing what hundreds or thousands of your
readers have felt when going over the welcome
notes of fellow amateurs. It is not needful for
your correspondents to state to a few miles
where plants are grown, for to publish one’s
address is sometimes inconvenient. I hope,
therefore, that “J. D. E.” will not only tell
where the Marguerite La Crousse has proved
hardy enough for the open garden to make such
large bushes, but that your correspondents will
in future indicate their climate and county, and
so extend the usefulness of their notes.—J.
Wood.

HOUSEHOLD.

Ground rice cakes.— Ingredients : £ lb.
ground rice, I lb. sugar, £ lb. butter, 2 table¬
spoonfuls flour, a few currants, 1 teaspoonful of
baking powder. Mode : Mix the rice, sugar,
flour, baking powder, and currants in a dry
state, melt the butter, and add half a teacupful
of warm milk ; mix all together with a spoon,
and bake in small tins. If a little more ground
rice is added to the above, so as to form a paste,
it can be rolled out thinly and cut into biscuits
with the top of a tumbler, or into pretty shapes
with a fancy paste cutter.

An economical custard.— Boil one
pint of new milk in an enamelled saucepan,
with a quarter of a candied lemon rind cut in
strips, two bay leaves, and sugar to taste.
Meanwhile, rub down smooth a dessert¬
spoonful of rice flour into a cup of cold milk,
and mix with it two eggs well beaten. Take
about half of the hot muk and mix with the
cold milk and eggs, then pour it back into the
saucepan, and stir it one way till it thickens
and is on the point of boiling. Next pour it
out into a jug, or other vessel, stir it for some
time, adding a tablespoonful of peach water,
and any flavouring you please.

Holiday buns. — 1 lb. of flour, 4oz. butter,
3 oz. lard, A lb. currants, £ lb. raisins, 2 oz.
candied lemon peel, i lb. moist sugar, 2 eggs,
1 large tablespoonful of baking powder, \ pint
of new milk. Rub the butter and lard tho¬
roughly into the flour, add all the dry ingre¬
dients, beat the eggs well and mix them into
the ingredients ; then add the milk, and mix up
thoroughly well. Put a teaspoonful of the
mixture into each patty pan well buttered, and
bake in a very brisk oven until nicely browned
over. They will be nicely glazed over the top
if done in a brisk oven. When properly cooked
I can recommend these cakes as being extremely
good, easily kept, and appreciated by all who
taste them. They will keep good for months in
an air-tight tin box.

Scotch scones.—2A lb. flour, 1 teaspoonful
of bicarbonate of soda, salt, and buttermilk.
Put the flour and salt into a basin and mix
them. Into a cupful of buttermilk put one
teaspoonful of the soda and stir it until it
effervesces, then pour it into the flour and mix
it as for plain bread, adding sufficient butter¬
milk to make a nice paste. Cut this batch into
six pieces, roll one piece out, put it on to a
griddle over a bright fire. When cooked on
one side, cut into four quarters and turn over
and bake on the other side. When all the
pieces are done, cut each quarter into two, and
pile them one above the other on a plate ; cover
them with a cloth to keep in the steam and
make them soft, and put away in a cool place.
They are buttered cold for tea or breakfast, and
are a nice change used instead of bread. N. B. —
The bicarbonate of soda should only be added
to the first cupful of buttermilk. A little lard
rubbed into the flour is a great improvement,
but the above is the real Scotch recipe for
scones.

Blanc-mange. —Alb. Brown and Poison’s
cornflour, 3 pints new milk. Put a saucepan
on to a rather slow fire with a little butter in
it. When the butter is melted, move the pan
about so that the butter will run all over the
bottom. This is done to prevent the milk
burning. Pour 2 pints of the milk into the pan,

S ut in 2 bay leaves, or a little vanilla, or any
avouring liked. While the milk in the pan is
coming to the boil, put the cornflour into a basin,

add the remaining pint of milk to it cold, and
mix well. When the milk in the pan boils,
take out the bay leaves or vanilla, and add the
cold milk and flour, and stir until the whole
boils again. Let it boil for five minutes,
stirring all the time. Put in 2 tablespoonfuls
of sugar, stir thoroughly. Have ready a wet
mould, pour the blanc mange in, and put it
away in a cool place to set. If liked, a well*
beaten egg may be added with the sugar. To
make it rouge-mange, add a few drops of pre¬
pared cochineal; to make it jaune-mange, add
two yolks of eggs thoroughly beaten. When
white and red are wanted in the same mould,
pour into the mould the white until it is half
Full, add a few drops of cochineal to the re¬
mainder in the pan, and then pour it in. This
is a very pretty supper dish with very small
jellies, or cranberries, or stewed currants set
round it. I find Brown and Poison’s the best
cornflour. 1 have tried many other cornflours,
but when the blanc mange made from them is
set it tastes like cold starch.

Lemon cheese cakes.— A lb. butter, 1 lb.
loaf sugar, 6 eggs, the rind of 2 lemons and juice
of 3. Put all into a stew-pan, carefully grating
the lemon-rind and straining the juice. Keep
stirring the mixture over the fire until the sugar
dissolves and begins to thicken. When of the
consistency of honey, it is done. Line patty
pans with good puff paste, put a teaspoonful of
the mixture into each, and bake in a brisk oven.
If not required for immediate use, put into small
jars, cover well, and keep in a dry place. Done
in this way it will keep for one or two months.

Saucer cakes. —Take 3 cups of flour, 1
of milk or cream, 1 of sugar, 2 eggs, 1 slice of
butter, a few currants if preferred, 2 tea¬
spoonfuls of cream of tartar, 1 teaspoonful of
soda. Flavour with essence of lemon ; work
the butter in the flour, then put in the sugar,
soda, and cream of tartar. Beat the eggs
separately, then add milk and eggs; beat all
well together with a spoon. Have ready four
large saucers well buttered ; bake in a moderate
oven.

Madeira cake.— Ingredients : J lb. of flour, 2i oz.
of butter, 2J oz. of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of baking powder.
2 eggs. Mode : Dry the flour before the fire, add the
sugar—pounded—and baking powder ; mix, and then rub
in the butter, mixing with the 2 eggs well beaten. Bako
in a brisk oven for half an hour in a mould.

J B. BROWN & Co., 90, Cannon-street, E.C.
MEW PRICE LIST for 1884“ of IRON

J-l HURDLES, Bar anil Wire Fencing. &c.

p ALV ANISED WIRE N ETT1NG. - Champion

U Prize, three Gold Medals_

GALVANISED POULTRY FENCES, Wire

VT Trellis for training plants, &c.

B EST BLACK VARNISH, for coating iron¬
work, Is. 3d. per gallon, in 18 and 36-gallon casks, carriuge
paid. No charge for casks.

E VERY article guaranteed to be satisfactory ;

and if not approved of may be returned unconditionally.

B. BROWN & Co., 90, Cannon street, E.C.

SPECIALLY CHEAP CLASS.

Packing Cases free and not returnable,

100 squares glass at the following prices

15 oz.

13J by 8 for 10s. Od.
12 by 9 „ 10s. Od.

14 by 10 „ 13s. 6d.

15 by 9 „ 13s. 6d.
12 by 12 „ 13s. 6d.
15 by 12 „ 19s. Od.
18 by 12 „ 22s. Od.
20 by 12 „ 25s. Od.

21 oz.

13| by 8 for 12s. 6d
12 by 9 „ 12s. 6d.

14 by 10 „ 19s. Od.

15 by 9 ,, 19s. Od.
12 by 12 „ 19s. 0<L
15 by 12 „ 2G«. 0*1.
18 by 12 ., 32s. Od.
20 by 12 „ 35s. Od.

300 squares 15-oz., 8 by 6, or 250 squares, 8j by 6$, or 220
squares, 94 by 6i, or 170 squares, 9 by 7i, or 150 squares, 10 by
8, for 10s. 6d.

Putty, Id. per lb.; Paint, ready mixed, in lib., 21b., 41b., and
71b. tins, at 5d. per lb. Other sizes of glass quoted for on
application. All glass packed in own Warehouse, seldom any
breakage. Intending purchasers will oblige by making their
frames to suit tho above Bizes.

HENRY WAINWRIGrHT,

Wholesale Glass Warehouse,

8 k 10, ALFRE D 8TREET, BOAR LAKE, LEEDS.

GARDEN Stakes, Labels, Virgin Cork, Mats,

VT Raffia, kc. None cheaper—WATSON and SCULL
“ ‘ ’ don. T ~

90. Lower Thames-street, Lo ndon . E.C.

OH non YARDS superior, extra strong,

LX \J ) V U U tanned Btring GARDEN NETTING. 1. 2. 3,
and 4 yards wide. Id. per square yard: 200 yards, 15s.; 600,
- * - 100 yards, 5s. Bd.; highly recommended

£2 2s. Good nettii
-L. MAUDE,
London Agent

, Stamford Street, Aahton-under-Lyne,

WANTED, a portable Conservatory, 28 ft. long
Y Y by 14 feet; span roof, with stages and fittings complete.
Quote price delivered to station 13 miles from London.-Reply
to C. Jpj Jerusalem, Co« pel’s Court, Conti iill, E C. [1709

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

256

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[AuorsT 2 , 1884 .

THE ENGLISH FLOWER GARDEN

And Dictionary of Flower Garden Plants.

Now Ready (750 pp.), with over Twelve Hundred and
Eighty Illustrations, Medium 8vo, 15s.

THE

English Flower Garden:

Designs, Views, and Plans.

Followed by an Alphabetical Description of all
the Plants best suited for its Embellishment ,
their Culture and Positions.

By W. ROBINSON,

WITH THE CO-OPERATION OF THE BEST FLOWER
GARDENERS.

Some Opinions of the Press.

COURT JOURNAL.

“ This work may be considered as the finest and most com¬
plete of its kind that has ever appeared in the English lan-

“ UW '" ECHO.

“An admirably illustrated, comprehensive dictionary of
flower gardening, and is indeed the completest work of the
kind that we have yet seen.”

CHRISTIAN WORLD.

" A valuable and elaborate work .... embraces a variety
of subjects, and contains a vast amount of most useful in¬
formation.”

LITERARY WORLD.

" A volume abounding in most valuable information con¬
veniently arranged, and the numerous illustrations which
enliven its pages enhance the value of the work.”

SHEFFIELD INDEPENDENT.

44 Nobody with the help of this book need despair of making
the smallest garden pretty and charming out of the abounding
wealth of flowers from which it is now possible to select."

FIELD.

•* This comprehensive book will, of course, be of most
utility to persons who have large gardens; but those
lovers of gardening who have more restricted opportunities
to profit by it will also find it interesting and valuable."

WEEKLY DISPATCH.

11 There are thus considerably more than a thousand little
pictures in this book, which add not a little to its value as a
work of reference and a serious guide to horticulture, besides
greatly increasing its elegance as au ornamental volume."

SCOTSMAN.

Altogether, the book will be of the greatest value, alike
to the amateur and the professional gardener; it happily
combines the exposition of general rules and principles with
an immense store of practical instruction and detail."

NEWARK ADVERTISER.

“We can only hope what we have said may Induce our
readers to study this charming book for themselves. We con¬
fidently commend it to the notice of all who love our English
flowers, and who desire to see them restored to the place they
ought to hold in our gardens and our hearts."

WESTERN MORNING NEWS.

“The author has in this splendid work earned the high
praise and deep gratitude of all who desire the perfection of
this natural and national taste—a taste and occupation as
old hs the human race itself, much lauded for its simple
quietude and contemplative peacefulness by sedate philoso¬
phers and sung by enraptured poets."

LLOYD’S WEEKLY.

“ Ab far as we are able to see the information Imparted

is complete and accurate.We trust that this excellent

book, which is a rich mine of information and contains the
teaching of long experience, may do a great deal to help
English gardeners to improve themselves yet further in the
exercise of an art which they have practised so successfully.’'

LAND AND WATER.

“ Thoroughly adapted to the wants of, and easily understand¬
able by the veriest amateur, it should prove an invaluable aid
to everyone interested in the culture of flowers, and find
a place on the book-shelves of every gardener, experienced or

otherwise. In short, it seems to supply a want that has

for some time been most keenly felt, and armed with it the
merest tyro can boldly attempt gardening."

GARDENERS’ MONTHLY (Philadelphia).

44 We cordially recommend it as, perhaps, the most profit
able florlcultural book that has appeared for many a long day.
We have often had enquiries for such a work, but havo been
unable to name anyone that covered all the ground as this
does. Though called The 'English' Flo\cer Garden, it is in a
great measure suited as well to America. In fact, it is a work
which should have a wide sale in our country."

GARDENERS’ CHRONICLE.

44 The general object of this book, we are told, is to show by
what arrangements and with what materials gardens,
whether large or small, may be most effectually made to afford
rational and lasting pleasure to those who frequent them.
In the celebration of Nature’s triumph on her restoration to
power in English gardens the author deserves to hold a
conspicuous place; for no one has done more than he both
to make and to meet the demand for it."

ST. JAMES’S GAZETTE.

“The author is an uncompromising revolutionist. By
founding journals and writing books he has done a vast
deal to widen men’s views on all matters relating to gardens
and gardening; and his dicta are based upon a notable union
of common sense and sound taste. This volume may be
described as the text-book of bis principles And practice, and
a very exhaustive and instructive text-book it is. It embraces
an inestimable mass of information, arranged in dictionary
form and e«t forth with rpwafkable <^ewnew|M»d pgmplete-

"'"’Digitized b ’

BELFAST N. WHIG.

In the second part of the work there are about fifteen
hundred paragraphs and articles, each headed with the same
name of a plant, and altogether some four thousand named
varieties are described. A few examples will give an idea of
the completeness with which the various flowers are described
and pictured. Of the campanula there are forty-five varie¬
ties described, with thirty-five engravings; of the iris twenty-
six varieties, thirteen engravings ; lilium, twenty-seven varie¬
ties, twenty-seven engravings; pentstemon, nine varieties, ten
engravings ; primula, twenty-six varieties, thirty-two engrav¬
ings.'

ABERDEEN FREE PRESS.

14 In point of comprehensiveness, precision, and accuracy,
combined with admirable external get up, it assumes very
much the character of a high class Encyclopedia, devoted to
a particular subject in all its relations. In all that pertains
to the position, style, and laying-out of the flower garden, and,
as well, the character and habits of the whole ‘world of
beautiful plant life,’ the cultivation of which can be hopefully
attempted, the work will be found to meet the wants of the
professional gardener, not only adequately, hut in Buch a way
as to be suggestive of many fresh ideas in connection with the
practical details of his useful and wholesome calling; and
amateurs of all classes will find it a perfect mine of delightful
and instructive information."

1 information, arranged in di<

b remarkable fewness and pc

Gck gie

COUNTRY GENTLEMAN.

This is by far the best book on the flower garden that has
ever been published. It contains in all over 700 closely-printed
pageB and nearly 1,300 woodcut representations of plants used
in flower-garden decoration. The first 124 pages are devoted
to various subjects that add to the beauty of the garden, Buch
as rockeries, plants of fine form, critiques on gardens already
in existence, pointing out their faults as well as their merits.
They consist, in short, of a valuable and instructive essay on
taste as applied to garden ornamentation. The rest of the
book is arranged on the plan of a dictionary, and embraces all
the plants, both hardy and half-hardy, annual and bulbous,
suitable in any way for the British flower garden.’’

NORTHERN CHRONICLE.

As to the fulness of it, we have tested it by going over as

many obscure Highland and bog plants suitable for gardens as
we could remember, not one of which we found to be missing.
Meum athamanticum, which the Highlanders call Muilceann.
is a plant of no fame. It is only found in a very limited
area, and, as a wild plant, does not grow in the south of
England at all, nor, Indeed, in many places beyond a few of
the Grampian glens: but here it is down with the rest. So
with other Alpine and Highland plants, full of quiet grace and
little known to fame—altogether unknown at horticultural
shows. We are glad to see old garden flowers, which fell out
of fashion thirty or forty years ago, regaining the positions
belonging to them by right of merit.”

WATCHMAN.

44 The author of this book has in many respects changed
people’s ideas of what a garden ought to be, and has left them
thoroughly dissatisfied with the old formal or undeveloped
styles, and with the present condition of things in our flower
gardens generally. We are told that hundreds of different
and beautiful aspects of vegetation are attainable in a garden
in spring, summer, and autumn. This, to those of ub who
are wearied by the constant repetition of a few forms and a
few varieties by which all our gardens seem filled up after the
same pattern, iH welcome news. We hope that the study of
this simple but complete work will bring about a change.
Even the smallest cultivator may find here directions which
will help him to make the best of his bit of town or suburban
ground, or to get the most satisfactory results from the strip
of land attached to his cottage."

DAILY TELEGRAPH.

14 We have it on the authority of Emerson that he who
employs a hireling to cultivate his radish beds wilfully and
deliberately deprives himself of a delicate pleasure that had
far better have remained in his own hands. If this be true in
regard to the cultivation of a humble vegetable, then the
growing of flowers must be regarded as a pleasure of a very
high order. The writer of this book is an advocate for the
reasonable in this delightful science as opposed to the
fantastic. All right-minded people will follow him in his
condemnation of stucco adjuncts to the flower garden, and
the abomination of many kindred heresies. The main portion
of the work, that devoted to a lexicographical arrangement of
all the plants suited for outdoor cultivation in our climate,
is admirable, and the engravings are as good as they can
be.”

NEWCASTLE CHRONICLE.

“ The text is written in a clear and comprehensive manner;
but by the free use of a number of well-drawn engravingB the
author makes his meaning bo explicit that not even the
dullest can fail to understand. But the great aim of the
writer is to encourage a natural and easy style of gardening in
preference to the geometrical floral pazzles which a few years
ago were the prevailing fashion in our parkB and gardens.
The larger part of the volume, however, is devoted to a
description of hardy flowers suitable for English gardens in
all parts of the island. This is arranged on the convenient
and simple plan of a dictionary, each page of letterpress being
faced by a plate containing pictorial representations of the
flowers treated of in the text. These descriptions are concise,
hut they embrace all the material facts, such as the habit,
colours, and modes of culture, and peculiarities; and, as
the flowers are also arranged under their popular names, the
reader unacquainted with the botanical name will have no
difficulty in at once finding out any plant he may require
information about."

SALISBURY AND WINCHESTER JOURNAL.

“Instructive, aud written in a clear, pleasant style, the
book has the higher recommendation of being from the pen
of an ardent lover of nature, who for yeare has thrown the
whole weight of his influence against the fashion of turning
out gardens into treeless and ffoworless grass plots for two-
thirds of the year, iu order to reproduce the dining-room
carpet on the lawn, and crowd the pleasant stretch of gTeen
with all the fantastic figures of Euclid, or Maltese crosses,
tadpoles, serpents, and other innumerable enormities, cut out
with mathematical precision, and crammed with gaudy
flowers, arranged with a primness and freezing stiffness that
would dismay even the most severe old maid of proverbial
existence.. .. The English Floirer Garden is certainly one of the
most delightful, useful, and beautifully illustrated books on
horticulture ever issued from an English press. Considering
the excellence of the paper and letterpress, the artistic nature
of the binding, and the extraordinary merit and accuracy of
every engraving, it is certainly a marvel of cheapness, and
reflects the highest credit upon the author and (he great firm
by whojp it hap beep publish**}.”

DUNDEE ADVERTISER.

It is one of the most generally useful bookB on horticulture
ever published, and to everyone possessing a garden, whether
cultivating it as an amateur or engaging others to cultivate
it for him, the work may be recommended as containing an
Immense store of information how to develop to the utmost
the flower garden's resources, and render it in the highest
degree pleasing and gratifying. Anyone who succeeds in
following the directions given in the work will certainly possess
a most artistic garden, and no one will read through the
introduction to this volume without, at any rate, having a
ranch more Tivid idea of what effect he seeks when laying out
his garden. Utterly condemning, indeed, that style of laying out
gardens, public and private, v?hich seems to have for its only
object the expenditure of as much money as possible. Max
O'Rcll, in that most clever book of his, says that John Bull
always likes to see his money's worth for whatever he lays out.
On this ground only can be justified the enormouB expendi¬
ture so often involved in laying out our publio parks. There
is no doubt, too, that public favour leanP at present very much
towards this false style of ornamentation, where the chief
object seems always to be to expend os vast a sum of money
as possible in converting beautiful sweeps of lawn and park
into choppcd-up bits of beds, and narrow, ineffective strips.
As instances of this wasteful over-expenditure, Mr. Robinson
cites the Crystal Palace Gardens in England and the gardens
of Versailles in Franco. If it is fair to judge incomplete work,
wc might be tempted to take the new park now being made at
Greenhead as another example; but examples may l>e better
taken where the work is completed, and the full intent and
purpose of the design seen."

SPECTATOR.

“Among the first desires that come when the earlier ambi¬
tions ot youth havebeen satisfied or discarded is the possession
of a spot, however small, where work can be put aside, and
where care shall cease to make careful. The more strenuous
the effort has been the more surely reaction follows, and we
come to realise that not toil alone is man’s Inheritance, that
life is not complete if leisure and solitude and nature do not
also play their part in it. Formerly, it was only those rich
enough to get change of scene in any form they wanted who
thought of having a country home of their own; but as educa¬
tion tends to bring the more exciting kinds of work and
arausemeut within the reach of all classes, so the more
thoughtful of all classes come to feel the need of recreation,
which, while it soothes and refreshes, Bhall yet be stimulating
enough not to grow wearisome. Such recreation can be found
nowhere in more perfect balance than in a garden. There
can be found that restful work which makes the hours seem
minutes, and the year pass as a day. while within its boundary
walls there is a sense of solitude which is too often lost when
the garden Is exchanged for a larger domain which can be
shared by others. But to make a garden thoroughly refresh¬
ing interest in its growth is absolutely necessary. To walk
among shrubs and flowers, wholly ignorant of their names or
nature, will only leave the mind a prey to unbidden thoughts,
and some knowledge of facts and study of the individualities
of the garden inmates is needed to ensure the ejectment of
these unwelcome visitors. The amateur gardener, therefore,
has once more cause to be grateful to the author, who has
added in The English Flenctr Garden another benefit, and that
a substantial one, to those he has already bestowed upon the
flower-loving world. In the way of useful facts and teaching
on all that concerns plants The English Floxcer Garden has
done its work thoroughly. It meets the great want felt by all
of a practical guide in the selection and arrangement of
plants. To know where a plant will flourish best is more than
half the battle, and as there is no place for repentance in the
year’s blooming, the avoidance of mistakes makes all the
difference of one, and often of two or three years. In the
pleasure a plant will bestow."

THE GUARDIAN.

“Rather more than a quarter of a century ago a gorgeous
stranger appeared in our gardens, and was regarded with a

_reat surprise and admiration, as some scarlet warrior by the
lads and lasses of his native village, to which ho comes on
furlough. Our English Flora startled in her Bweet simplicity,
and fascinated by this splendid presence, forgot her engage¬
ment to that which may be called the natural system, and
transferred her affections to this gaudy suitor, who called
himself 4 Bedding-Out. 4 Like the fair Imogene. when the
Baron, all covered with jewels and gold, arrived at her front
door, she became ‘untrue to her vows.’ She exchanged her
graceful undulations and curves, her green alleys, and cool
grots, her walks amid the shrubberies in which she roved in
maiden meditation, and heard the mellow ouzel fluting In the
elm, for treeless squares of sward, as flat as the spirit level
and the garden roller could make them. On these were cut
all the figures in Euclid, with an assortment of stars, crowns,
Maltese crosses, serpents, tadpoles, and nameless enormities,
to be coloured, when the summer came, with verbenas and
calceolarias (purple and gold, like the cohorts of the Assyrian),
scarlet geranium, and white nlyssum. The dining-room
carpet was to be reproduced on the lawn, the landscape
gardener was to learn his art from the kaleidoscope. Flower¬
ing trees and shrubs, laburnums, lilacs, syringas, almonds,
roses, berberis, laurustinus, went down by the hundred (alius !
the hand which writes this paper grasped the axe and saw !),
the grand clumps of herbaceous flowers, denounced as coarse
and dingy in comparison with these new importations, were
dug up and destroyed. Now we were to have three months of
dazzling coruscations, and, when the frost came, a shabby,
flowerless exposition of flabby leaves, and then beds bare and
brown. The catherine-wheelB and other fireworks collapsed
into charred wood and tinder. Even this brief period of
efflorescence was liable to curtailment. The writer was once
staying with a floral friend, who was considered to have the
most tasteful display of the ‘bedding-out system in the
midland counties, if not beyond them. Seen in the light of
the setting sun this garden was enthusiastically admired by
the guests, as a sight to make an old man young; but there
was a thunderstorm on that July night, and when those
guests looked out from their dressing-rooms at mom they
read Ieheihod in that dank desolation. Happily, and aprojx*
of Imogene aud midnight, a change came o er the spirit of
this dream. When this new system of floral development
seemed to have obtained a Papal supremacy, and when every
garden, which was not 'bedded out,' was regarded as menu
and poky,' when even cottagers had expelled their gillyflowers,
their ladslove, and Michaelmas daisies, to make room for a
few of these gay novelties, bought or begged from the gardener
at the hall; when the marriage between Flora and the Baron
was celebrated with universal joy, and the tables they
groaned with the weight of the feast, and the bell of the cast le
6truck one,’ then appeared the Nemesis or retribution, the
ghost of Alonzo—Alonzo, by William Robinson, accompanie d
by an escort of avenging spectres. His book, as a guide and
reference, must be welcomed with its beautiful and truthful
illustrations, the most important and instructive addition
which has been made for many years to the florist a library. **

JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street,

JNIVERS S AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

AUGUST 9, 1884.

No. 283.

TREES AND SHRUB8,

SOPHORA JAPONICA PENDULA.
Sophora japonica is one of the most handsome
and distinct of hardy deciduous trees. In most
localities the Sophora is a quick growing tree,
admirably adapted for the landscape in parks
and pleasure grounds, and also for avenues and
public squares. The feathery foliage is retained
even in the dryest of seasons longer than that
of most of the pinnate-leaved Leguminosa? ; and
long after the Locust (Robinia Pseudacacia) has
shed most of its leaves, either by reason of
dronght or otherwise, those of the Sophora
continue to clothe the tree with a mantle of
intense green. Apart from the graceful habit
and the beauty of the bark ard foliage, which
alone are amply sufficient to recommend it for
much more extensive cultivation
than it can at present boast, the
large, loosely branching panicles of
creamy white pea-shaped flowers
render it at this time of year by far
the most conspicuous of outdoor
trees. In well-drained, rich ground
it grows with remarkable vigour
and soon attains considerable size ;
under such circumstances seedlings
will reach a height of a dozen feet
or more in four or five years. That
it is by no means very partial in its
requirements in this direction is
proved by the fact that it thrives
perfectly on the dry, sandy, gravelly
soil at Kew, where there are several
fine specimens of different ages and
sizes, which are now one mass of
bloom. Seeds are never produced
st Kew, and, indeed, probably no¬
where in Britain ; in Central and
Southern France, and elsewhere on
the Continent, they are ripened
annually. The variety pendula is
one of the most remarkable and
beautiful of all weeping trees. Even
» hen deprived of its leaves, the
bright, smooth, green branches ren¬
der it truly ornamental. Loudon
§ peaks of this variety as follows :—

“The pendulous variety is well
deserving of culture as an object of
angularity and beauty ; and where
it is desired to cover a surface with
intense green foliage during summer
-for example, a dry hillock—a
pUnt of this variety placed on the
centre will accomplish the purpose
effectually. When grafted on the
common form at a height of 8 feet
or 10 feet or more, the branches fall
gracefully on all sides of the stock,
and form what one might designate
as a leafy cascade of darkest green.

I have been unable to trace the
history or origin of this variety.

Considering its peculiar aspect and good quali¬
ties, perfect hardiness and vigorous growth, it
^ems strange so charming a tree should not be
irore frequently planted.’’

might be mistaken for a Leptospermum, ths
branches being slender and the leaves small and
dense, while the whole plant is thickly studded
with white flowers like some of the Leptosper-
mums. It is & native of the mountainous parts
of South America, whence it was introduced a
few years ago by Messrs. Veitch, and appears to
be about the hardiest of the genus. Compared
with such kinds as macrontha and rubra, this is
in all respects a smaller plant; nevertheless, it is
a very beautiful one.

Ceanoth us GLoire de Versailles.— Garden
varieties of Ceanothus arc now almost unlimited,
most of them being of Continental origin, a
Bource from which tne kind herein mentioned
was derived, and, though many have been put j
into commerce since this particular one was dis¬
tributed, it is doubtful if any equals it, and
! certainly none surpasses it in this climate as a

NOTES ON FLOWERING SHRUBS.

I Rf.rberih aristata. —This is a very free-grow-
I: species of the vulgaris type, valuable owing
\ : he season at which it blooms. Some bushes
lit are now in full beanty. I say some, &b
1. . i.luals vary a good deal in this respect, and
raised from seed there is a great difference
i only in the time of flowering, but also in the
W and in the profusion in which the blooms
* ! ome. It is a native of Nep&ul, thoroughly
Mj, and when a good variety is obtained a
' desirable shrub.

/-•callonia Philippian a. —At first Bight
^ would scarcely be recognised os an
^"vkmia, differing as it does so much in
£*^1 appearance from aRqthors ; indeed, at a
^•ce of a few yards /planfryf

Sophora Japoniea pendula In summer.

flowering shrub in the open ground. In many
places around London it has withstood the
severe winters of late years without protection,
and if cut back somewhat, recovers so quickly as
to soon form a large bush. The flowere are of a '
beautiful shade of pale blue, borne in large |
plume-like clusters, in such profusion that the
plant is quite a mass of flowers, and either I
standing Bingly or associated with other sub¬
jects, it is really charming. There is now a
great variety of Ccanothuses to choose from, but
few of them are as hardy as this one.

Spanish Broom (Spartium junceum).—This is >
frequently passed over, being thought to be too ^
common for ornamental planting, yet some !
specimens of it in a border, planted so as to ;
form a belt or screen, are just now the showiest 1
shrubs in the garden. They were placed at
intervals along the border, and from their rapid
growth they have overtopped the others, and
now present the appearance of largo golden
masses standing above a bank of foliage, there
being little else in bloonu

Ligustrcm Fortunei.— This is just opening
its light, open panicles of flowers. This Privet
is really grand when in a thriving condition ;
and os to soil or situation, it seems, like the
common kind, to be one of the most accommo¬
dating of shrubs. Its leaves are arranged more
regularly along the shoots than in the other
species, while the smaller branches push forth
almost horizontally from the main stems. The
white, feathery flowers are very sweet Bccnted
—too much so, in fact, for use in a cut state.
Another name by which this Privet is often
known is Ligustrum sinense.

Magnolia glauca. —On a damp spot a bush
of this Magnolia is very attractive, both os
regards sight and smell, being thickly studded
with flowers, the fragrance of which, especially
when the sun Bhines, is perceptible at some
distance off. This Magnolia does not require
such a large space in which to
develop itself as the other North
American kinds ; it throws up
several stems from the base, which
form a large shrub, and it is seen
to the best advantage when about
10 feet or 12 feet high. The flowers
are borne on the points of the shoots,
and are pure white. They do not
expand all at once ; indeed, a con¬
tinued succession is kept up for
Borne time. The leaves are small
and none too plentifully produced,
but their silvery undersides form
an attractive feature when moved
by the wind.

Amorpha fruticosa. —This, the
Bastard Indigo of the United States,
is an open-growing shrub of 0 feet
or 8 feet high, with pinnate leaves
and long spikes of beautiful bluish
purple flowers. The spikes are
borne on the points of the shoots,
generally in clusters consisting of
one long and three or four snort
ones, all of which are densely
packed with bloom. The anthers
protrude slightly from the mouth of
the flowers, and, being of a bright
yellow colour, appear like spots of
gold on a purple ground. It is one
of those plants the beauty of which
can only De seen on close inspection,
for to a superficial observer the
flowers appear dull and uninterest¬
ing.

Indigofera florijjunpa, against
a wall, U now a mass of rich rosy
blossoms, an<l from its beauty well
repays the slight protection afforded
it Dy the wall during winter. Tho
white-flowered variety is, though
less conspicuous, very pretty. These
Iodigoferas, from their freedom of
flowering, make fine objects for
greenhouse or conservatory decorn-
tion when grown in pots, a condition
under which they bloom just as plentifully as
in the open ground.

Deutzia crenata fl.-pl. —Of this there
appears to be two distinct varieties, in one of
which the bark of the young shoots is reddish
and the flowers on the outside suffused with
rose ; in the other the young shoots are green
and the flowers almost, if not quite, white.
They are both beautiful shrubs, although, in my
opinion, the palm must be awarded to the pink-
tinged one. The flowers are valuable in a cut
state, as they last for Borne time in water, and
are borne in large showy spikes. I counted
nearly forty flowers on a Bpikc, and each bloom
consisted of about thirty petals ; some idea may
therefore be formed of the beauty of my plant—
a young thriving specimen. The single form is
a pretty shrub, but the blossoms are shed much
quioker than those of the double kind. I never
before noticed so much bloom on D. gracilis
when grown in tlio open, ground as there has
been this year. It has been literally a little

b*.B^N[VERSlTY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

258

GARDENING ILIUSTIMTED

[August 9, 1884.

Mock Oranges.— Among the different kinds
of Mock Orange, Philadelphus grandiflorus is
the best, and a grand sight it is now. In order
to keep it in good condition all dead wood and
useless spray should be removed at pruning
time.

Spirasa sorbifolia. — This pinnate-leaved
species i6 now in full flower, and very pretty it
is, but the variety alpina, Pallasi grandiflora, or
Fori, as it is variously called, is much superior
to it, as the blossoms of sorbifolia are of a
greenish tint, while in the variety they are pure
white. The individual blooms are also larger
and more showy.

Pkriploca gr^eca.— Against a sunny wall
this curious climber is now flowering freely,
and is, when observed closely, very interesting,
if not showy. The leaves, which are deep green,
are from 3 inches to 4 inches long, and firm in
texture, while the blossoms are about 1 inch in
diameter, five-rayed, and of a purplish crimson
colour, with the reverse of the petals greenish
yellow. They are borne in clusters of about a
dozen together. Such quaint colouring is very
uncommon among hardy climbing plants.

The Jerusalem Sage (Phlomis fruticosa),
with its large greyish rugose leaves and whorls
of yellow flowers, is very conspicuous when seen
against a background of darker-foliaged subjects,
which show it off to advantage. This shrub suc¬
ceeds well in dry sandy places where little else
will thrive ; therefore in this respect alone it
deserves to be more frequently seen in gardens
than it is. Young thriving plants of it make
the best display, as after a few years they get
scrubby and exhausted.

Gaitlthkria Shallon. —There is scarcely
anything better for covering the ground under
the shade of trees than this, especially if the
upper portion of the soil consists, as it fre¬
quently does, of decayed vegetable matter ; in
this the roots of the Gaultheria run with great
freedom. The pretty pink-tinged, bell-shaped
flowers are produced in great numbers, and list
a long time ; some clumps of it have been pro¬
fusely studded with blossoms, and there are still
many more to open. Alpha.

Genista sagittalis. —This pretty little
shrub, owing to its procumbent habit, is well
fitted for a sunny spot on rockwork. It reaches
a height of about 6 inches ; its branches are
procumbent, bright green in colour, and fur¬
nished on opposite sides with a wing or
membrane extending from joint to joint. The
leaves, which are small, are few in number and
in no way conspicuous; the broad winged stems
apparently take their place, so that, although
deciduous, the plant is much the same at all
seasons except when in flower, in which latter
state it has been with me for six weeks, till the
few hot days we have had drove it out of
bloom. On an exposed part of the rockwork
it has formed a fine mass, and when in flower
every branchlet is tipped with golden clusters
of blossoms.—A.

Garden hedges. —Privet makes a good
hedge quickly. White Thorn is best where
sheep or stock have access, or a mixture of
Thorn and Privet makes a good fence, especially
for windy situations, as the Thorn gives strength
to the Privet to enable it to resist the force of
the wind. There is an objection to Privet: its
roots rob the land more than most plants. The
Yew tree ia a good hedge plant, and grows
quickly; bo also is the Arbor-vitae and the Holly.
The Privet, however, is the fastest grower and
cheapest. September is a good time to plant.

The Double Deutzia (D. crenata fl.-pl.).
—Gardeners are beginning to realise the value
of this shrub for forcing purposes, but it is as
an outdoor summer flowering bush that it will
get to be most valued and grown. It seems to
grow anywhere and fast, and can be compared
to no other subject we know for profusion of
flower but Paul’s Scarlet Thorn when it does
well. The specimens of it we have seen have
all been young, but large, and were literally
bowed down with the weight of bloom they
carried. It must be classed among the favourites
of the very first rank of ornamental shrubs, and
should be extensively planted. Forced speci¬
mens are handsome, but they afford but little
idea of the true character of the bush grown
out of doors in any good open situation.

Sumach (Rhus dtfnirkb-r-The fbfenof this
Khue are not so fcly V -y fejy re

others, but the foliage is just now so handsome
as to make the plant very ornamental. The
leaves are long and pinnate, of a deep, shining
green, and, as they appear to be proof against
the attacks of insects, they are as perfect as at
first, unless planted in too dry a situation. The
cut-leaved variety (laciniata) is also very dis¬
tinct, but the most beautiful as regards inflores¬
cence are R. typhina and Cotinus.

Good lawn shrubs. —At this season or a
little later there are few shrubs more orna¬
mental than the too rarely seen Pavia macro-
stachya, which is alike beautiful in leafage as
in inflorescence. Its being leafless during the
winter months is a disadvantage, but then from
the time its young leaves appear in April until
late in autumn no deciduous shrub can well be

rettier. The ends of its shoots are terminated

y a tuft of Aralia-like leaves, and the contrast
between its erect spires of white blossoms and
its red-stalked foliage is singularly attractive.
Other distinct and effective shrubs for sheltered
parts of the lawn are Garrya elliptica and Ficus
Carica (the common Fig), and the Mul¬
berry tree deserves a place, as it flourishes well
even within the smoky precincts of the very
smallest of town gardens. We have but few
hardy deciduous-leaved shrubs of nobler port
than is the common Fig tree at this season.—
Veronica.

11788.—' Transplanting a large Thorn
tree.— In the first place dig a deep circular
trench round the tree, about 3 feet from its
stem ; the trench should be about 18 inches deep.
With a steel fork work under the mass of earth
and roots, carefully loosening the earth without
injuring the fibrous roots. When the earth has
been sufficiently reduced, the tree can be
removed by carefully working two mats under
it; it should be planted in a hole previously pre¬
pared. The end of October or early in November
is a good time to plant such a tree.—J. D. E.

-The middle of October is the best time, as then

new roots are formed by winter. All that you have to
do is to get to the ends of the roots, and extract them
without injury, taking care that they do not become dry.
Put a stout stake to the stem to prevent wind waving,
and mulch with some three inches of litter. In spring and
summer give an occasional soaking of water in dry
weather.—J. C. B.

The Chinese Privet (Ligustrum chinense), a hand¬
some shrub, is now beautifully in flower. Its growth is
elegant, and it bears wide-spreading, tabulated branches
and pale green foliage. The large clusters of pure white
blossoms are borne on almost every twig, so that a good-
sized specimen is an attractive object.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 251. J

The Early Vinery.

For early vines a lean-to house is the best.
Years ago, when heavy timbers and small
squares of glass w'ere employed in roof
building, there was an advantage in having the
pitch of the roof calculated to benefit by every
gleam of sunshine in the short, dark days.
Now this is a matter of less importance, as the
proportions between timber and glass are alto¬
gether altered, and a roof constructed at what
carpenters call “half-pitch,” or say an angle of
45 degs., will suit all kinds of forcing, pro¬
viding the aspect is south or south-east.
Though sorely tempted, I refrain from entering
into any discussion about the different systems
of glazing further than to say whatever plan is
adopted it must insure freedom from drip, as
many pounds’ worth of grapes are destroyed
every year from the water leaking through the
roof, and dropping among the fruit inside.
Some of this may be due to neglect in painting,
&c., but much is owing to faulty construction.
Again, many people that pride themselves on
keeping the outside well painted and in a good
state of repair, altogether neglect the inside
work, which is of equal importance in
keeping the roof dry and sound. From an
artistic point of view the new system of con¬
structing hothouses is a loss ; but if, as 1 believe,
it will lead to greater economy and efficiency,
the artistic, so far as the w’orking-houses are con¬
cerned, must give way. The arrangements for
heating and ventilating should be as simple and
perfect as it is possible to make them ; and
there is nothing gained by doing things
grudgingly, though, of course, it is possible to
buy gold too dear. In the matter of boiler and
pipes it is better to have an excess of power
than not enough. Some time ago I was con¬

sulted about an unsuccessful early vinery, whose
failure was entirely owing to false economy
in the matter of pipes. During the forcing
season the pipes had to he unduly heated to
keep up the requisite temperature, and the
atmosphere became so scorched and dry it was
impossible for healthy progress to be made.

Much of the annoyance and loss arising from the
attack of red spider may be traced to this cause.

It is a “ penny wise and pound foolish” system.

It is always best to call in some practical
man to advise as to the* size of boiler and the
amount of pipe that should be employed, as
although there are certain general rules laid
down in scientific books as to the amount of
pine required to warm any given number of
cubic feet of air to any special degree of tem¬
perature, yet there are always local conditions
and circumstances which should be taken into
consideration in all calculations of this nature.

The ventilation, or the means of changing
vitiated air for fresh, should be ample, openings
near the ground line being especially important.

And if the stream of air from this source
be brought immediately into contact with
the hot pipes on its admission so much
the better. The early vinery may be any
size, but from 30 feet to 40 feet long
and from 13 feet to 16 feet wide is a good useful
size; height of back wall to be about 14 or
15 feet, and the front 6 feet 6 inches or 7 feet
high, the upper 3 feet of the front to be glass
lights made to sw’ing on pivots with machinery.
Sometimes the top ventilation is in the upper

J >art of the back wall, but for the early house I
ike the ventilators to be in the roof. When
the openings are to the north, cold draughts are
created. As regards the ground line ventilation
referred to, this may be effected by inserting
ventilating bricks in the bottom course above
the ground line, the means being at hand to
close them when not required open. The front
wall should be built on arches, or else on
14-inch piers placed under each rafter, on which
the wall plates can rest.

Making the Border.

In some situations good Grapes have been
grown without any very elaborate preparation
of the border. But the vine pays nest for
generous treatment, and in nine cases out of
ten, if stinted and starved by planting in a
makeshift border, the result is not satisfactory.

For early work I prefer a narrower border than
is commonly made, with an occasional lifting
of the roots, adding, at the same time, fresh
turfy loam. The usual guiding principle is to
make the border as wide as the rafters are long,
so as to allow the roots to extend as far as the
branches. This principle need not always bind
us hard and fast, as in cold damp situations 1
should prefer a narrow border, well under con¬
trol, with the means of correcting the slightest
tendency to disorganisation should the usual
evidence appear of long-jointed wood or a
deterioration of leaf-growth. Assuming that
the border when fully made was 18 feet wide, I ((
should prefer to have 6 feet inside the house ^
and 12 feet outside, and I should like to
make it piecemeal. The first year I would
make 3 feet inside and 4 feet outside. If well ^

supplied with w r ater, and mulched to keep the |(

roots near the surface, this w r ould be sufficient
for two years. At the expiration of that time ^
I should add 3 feet more inside, and the same
wddth outside, and make the remainder when
the vines needed more food. The border must .*
have a good dry foundation, with a proper *
outfall for all water. The depth of border .
should depend upon circumstances. Where the
subsoil is bad it will be better and cheaper to
make it chiefly above the surface, removing as *
much of the bad soil from the bottom as may
be necessary to let in a good foundation of *'
concrete and a layer of drainage on the top.

The concrete should be 5 inches thick, anil *
should be laid at a sufficient inclination to "
drain all surplus moisture to the front. When
the concrete has had time to get firm, place on ( *
top of it 9 inches of brick rubble for drainage - '

then place a layer of sods, and on the 60 <l£i *
2 feet in depth of turfy loam, such hs can bo ‘
obtained from the top 4 inches of any old sheey> '
pasture, with about 1 cwt. of bones to eacfx
cartload of loam, and enough old lime or plaster ;
to insure porosity when the fibre shall hawo 1
ni<yleered to 'tfeeayi Besides the chemica.1 }
effectstjoe \jme..anjdheiftWf|^Ml^ ave a 00X1 * 1

August 9 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

259

Biderable manure value. If any other manure
is given, let it bo placed on the surface as a top-
dressing or mulching. Liquid manure will 1
supply the needful support as required, and
a concentrated manure, such as guano or I
any of the artificial kinds now so much
used, will give increased strength and vigour
without clogging up the pores of the soil.
The border may be made any time except in [
the depth of winter. I should prefer to make
it in March, and plant about May or June.
If the top spit of the pasture cannot be had, |
then make the border of the best soil obtain¬
able, adding the proportion of bones and old
plaster, employing stimulants according to
judgment, and top-dressing early in the season,
to keep the roots in the upper stratum of soil.

Raising the Plants.

This is mainly a proprietor’s question. If
money is no object, two sets of vines may be
planted, one set being strong fruiting canes,
specially prepared, and for which a long price
will be charged, though not extravagantly high,
considering the value of the crop ; and the other
set to be one-year-old plants, which ’ should be
planted under the rafters, to stand as permanent
vines. The strong canes should be planted

water pipes in a light position. The board had
an edging of lath round it. The eyes may also
be planted in 48-sized pots, one eye in the
centre of each pot, and be covered about half-an-
inch deep with light rich soil, the pots to be
plunged in a gentle bottom heat, or they will
do very well if only half plunged. It is always
advisable to put in double the number of eyes we
require of plants, as this gives a power of selec¬
tion which it is very desirable to possess, as
some of the plants are sure to possess less vigour
than others. If the eyes are started in January,
grown on in a temperature of 60 degs., and their
wants carefully attended to, they may be
planted in the border about the end of April or
beginning of May. When first turned out, and
for some time afterwards, the border should be
watered with warm water round about the
plants. Very good results have been obtained from
oung plants raised from eyes the same season,
ut no check must be given by planting in a cold
border, or by allowing them to be pinched in small
pots before planting. If young vines grown
from eyes the same season are planted before the
roots have had time to coil round the pots the
balls need not be broken up. But in planting
older plants, as permanent vines, the roots should
be uncoiled and laid out straight, and in that

Sophora japonica pendula in winter (see p. 257).

under the centre of the lights, to produce!
an immediate crop of fruit; probably a
second may be taken, and then they should
be removed to make room for the per¬
manent vines beneath the rafters. In many
cases it is expedient and convenient to raise
the plants at home, though, as a rule, there are
not facilities in private gardens to grow the
fruiting canes so good as can be done by those
who make a speciality of this branch of com¬
mercial gardening. Where fruiting canes are
planted the border should be made in autumn,
and the fruiting vines planted in January without
disturbing the roots. There are several ways of
raising young vines familiar to gardeners, but
•ingle eyes planted in sods of turf or in single
I ccts is the best and simplest. The cuttings to
'amiah the eyes should be chosen from well-
opened wood of good substance when the
inea are pruned in autumn, and be laid
a moist soil, in a cool situation, till
wnuary. In cutting out the eyes, a portion
f wood, on each side of the eye should
e left, half an inch will be sufficient. If planted
• kkIs, the latter should be about 4 or 5 inches
caare. A little soil should be scooped out of
middle, the eye inserted, pressed down, and
^ered with light rich soil. The sods may be
i^eed close together in a warm frame, or any-

; where a night temperature of 60 dogs,
c* be obtained. I have -succeeded with them

c* be obtained,
toy well' on; a d

Gained. I have succeeded with them
on a wide bfcrd ^Ja^cd jt^hot

case, to prevent too severe a check being given,
the plants should have been brought on steadily
in a low temperature, and be planted when the
eyes have broken nicely ; and when the plants
are beginning to feel the action of their roots,
all the buds, except three near the bottom,
should be rubbed off, and from these three the
best should be selected to form the main stem.

Training and Pruning.

I am ^satisfied that a great many vines are
trained too near the glass. No allowance, ex¬
cept in a few cases, has been made for the
altered conditions of hothouse building and the
lighter structures of the present day. When
vines are trained close to the glass, the roof
being composed of large squares of glass and
not much timber being used, they are exposed
to extremely sudden (manges of temperature ;
and not only is this so, but the range of tem¬
perature is much greater under a modern roof
than it was formerly under an old-fashioned
one. I know a case where the vine leaves lost
colour in a most unaccountable manner during
a spell of hot weather ; the leaves did not
scorch, but assumed a brownish yellow colour
round the edges, which gradually spread to the
! centre. The next year the trellis was lowered to
2 feet from the glass, and the green, healthy tint
came back again. I think In no case should
vines be trained less than 18 inches from the
I glass, and where the roof was very light I

should recommend 2 feet as the minimum. As
regards pruning, nearly all vines are started at
first on the spur system, and where the
roots can be kept near the surface no other
system is needed. But in the case of deep¬
rooting vines, the rod system has its advantage,
inasmuch as it gives the pruner a better chance
of securing a full, regular crop of bunches, and
of larger size than would be obtained by spur
pruning. Of course I should say when vines
are so deep-rooted—so out of hand—as not to
throw plenty of bunches, the roots ought to be
lifted and brought back to the surface. But
many people somehow seem afraid of touching
the roots of their vines, though there is no
plant which submits to root disturbance so well
as the vine does, and that, as a rule, derives so
much benefit from it.

Best Kinds to Plant.

The Black Hamburgh is unrivalled as an early
black Grape, and Foster’s Seedling, though not
approaching it as regards flavour, is still, on the
whole, the Best companion for the Hamburgh
when both have to be grown in the same house.
Buckland Sweetwater is an excellent early
white Grape, though hardly so sure and regular
in its cropping as the Seedling. But when worked
on the rod system, or some modification of it, the
Buckland Sweetwater bears freely, the bunches
and berries being of large size. If another early
black Grape is required plant the Maddresfield
Court Muscat. The fruit sometimes cracks when
colouring begins, but the best cure, I think, is
to hang a good load of fruit upon it, and leave a
good covering of foliage, allowing the laterals a
little more freedom than is customary till the
fruit is ripe, when the laterals may be gradually
removed. This is a valuable Grape, but will
not keep long. %

Routine Work.

For the first year this will be directed chiefly
to the encouraging of growth. Young trees
require a good deal of water, both at the roots
and also in the atmosphere. The young rods
must be tied to the wires as they progress.
When they are 5 feet long pinch out the point
of the shoots to strengthen the back eves.
Another leader will start, and this should be
laid in full length. The laterals should be
pinched to one leaf. It is better to have mode¬
rate sized wood, well ripened, than large canes
which are immature and soft and spongy. The
maturation of the wood is the most impor¬
tant business in fruit growing. If the bunches
of Grapes are not packed away in the buds be¬
fore forcing begins no amount of forcing can
produce them, and this ripening requires
warmth with a free circulation of air. As a
rule, if the roots are near the surface, there is
not much difficulty in getting the wood well
ripened in the case of forced vines. In
supplying atmospheric moisture many goed
gardeners do not use the syringe after
the buds are started and leaves have de¬
veloped, trusting entirely to damping the
floors and paths. This is an operation that
requires judgment. On fine bright days much
more moisture will be necessary than when the
weather is cloudy ; indeed, in dull weather
the damping may be discontinued, or at least
should only be lightly done. No hard or fast
line should be laid down, for if in persistently
carrying out any rule too much moisture is
used, mildew may be generated ; or if, on the
contrary, the atmosphere becomes too dry, red
spider would probably make its appearance. A
healthy, buoyant, growing atmosphere is re¬
quired, and to secure this the outside tem¬
perature will form a good guide. When the
weather is settled and bright the interior of the
vinery should have a good damping at closing
time, which will be referred to more fully in the
chapter on fruiting next week.

E. Hobday,

Mulching with stones.— This has lately
been recommended in Gardening, and with
good reason, as nothing can better protect
young roots than organic material of some de¬
scription. This is especially the case where
young tender seedlings are set in soil which is
of a light burning nature. Moreover, the
weight of the stones keeps the soil firm round
the roots, and prevents worms from disturbing
the young Diants before they get good hold of
the fresh soil.— J. CoiiNniLL.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

260

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 9 , 1884 .

INDOOR PLANTS.

MIGNONETTE INDOORS.

For greenhouse and conservatory decoration
this is always a favourite both summer and
winter, and by sowing at different times a con¬
stant supply for cutting may be had during the
greater part of the year.

The soil most suitable for Mignonette is a
compost consisting of rich yellow loam, put
through a half-inch sieve, one-third rotten leaf-
mould, and if at hand, some powdered charcoal,
mixing all well together. The charcoal keeps
the soil open and sweet, and a good portion of
sharp silver or river sand may also be used.
The pots must be perfectly clean, and plenty of
drainage must be used, covered with, a thin
layer of Moss. Fill the pots nearly full with
soil, gently pressing it down, and sow a few
seeds in each, varying the number according to
their size. Cover the seeds with some sifted
soil to about their own bulk in depth. For the
earliest sowing fill some 6-inch pots with the
compost just alluded to, and sow a few seeds
over the surface, pressing them gently down
and covering them with some fine sandy soil.
Water through a fine rose, and place them in
a temperature of about 60 degs. ; keep the
pots as close to the glass as possible. If the
surface of the pots is shaded until the young
plants appear, so much the better, but after they
are up they should have as much light as
possible in order to keep them dwarf and
stocky. As soon as they are large enough to
handle thin them out, leaving six of the
strongest in each pot. Tie each plant to a thin
neat stake, repeating the tying until they come
into bloom, when they will be ready for con¬
servatory or house decoration. Use either
liquid or some artificial manure to keep them
healthy, when they will yield an abundance of
cut flowers. If grown in 4£-inch pots, leave
only four plants in each pot. In order to grow
specimen plants, fill 3-inch pots with compost,
placing a few seeds in each pot, and when large
enough pull the plants out, leaving the strongest
in the middle. After four leaves have been
made pinch out the top of the plant, when it will
throw out strong side shoots, and these will
require to be kept pinched back to three or
four leaves, thus inducing the plants to produce
abundance of side shoots. Shift into larger pots
when necessary, giving small shifts at a time,
until they get their final shift into their flower¬
ing pots. A good size for specimen plants for
the cool house will be found to be 8-inch pots.

Tree Mignonette, to be in bloom in Novem¬
ber, should be sown by the middle of March.
Use 3-inch pots, which should be thoroughly
clean and well drained; place a thin layer of
moss or some rough material over the crocks,
and on this put the compost, pressing it firmly
into the pots. Place a few seeds in the centre
of each, covering them lightly with some fine soil.
Give a good watering, and place the pots near the
glass in a temperature of 60 degs. As soon as
the plants are large enough to show which is the
strongest, pull out all except these. Put a
small stick to the one left, and tie it up as it
grows in order to keep it from breaking off at
the neck. When from 6 inches to 9 inches in
length a shift will be required into 6-inch pots,
when every care should be taken both as to
soil and drainage. A little soot produces fine
dark green foliage. Sprinkle it over the Moss
on the top of the crocks, where it will also keep
out worms. Pots of different sizes are used,
in each of which plants may be grown success¬
fully, but 11-inch pots is the size generally
employed.

The Training. —The leading stem should
not be stopped until it has reached the
height required—generally 2 feet, and from that
to 3 feet through. The side Bhoots will be
found to form a fine head if properly attended to
with regard to pinching and tying down to a
trellis. The trellis is best made of wire in the
shape of an umbrella. Care must be taken in
pinching out the points of the shoots not to
• injure the stem leaves ; a pair of Grape scissors
will be found useful in performing this operation.
Allow them a temperature of 60 degs., place
them near the glass, and give liquid manure
twice a week after they have filled the pots with
roots, syringing overhead, and by the month of
November they will arapty repay all the labour
bestowed upon then/ a. erthej-Rowing

early in June, using 6-inch and 4A-inch pots,
and growing several plants in a pot. They will
be found useful for flowering late in the autumn
and early in spring. Mignonette, when grown
in quantity, is useful to cut from for filling vases
when other flowers are scarce. A sowing should
be made the second week in August, placing the
pots in a cold frame and thinning out the plants
when large enough. Support each with a thin
stick. On the approach of frost they should be
placed in a warm house or pit as near the glass as
possible. From 45 degs. to 50 degs. will be
found a suitable temperature for them during
winter. Early in spring the plants will com¬
mence to bloom and continue to flower freely
for several months. W. C.

Filmy Ferns on walls.— As galvanised
wire is not injurious to Filmy Ferns in any way,
the simplest method of covering a wall is by
having a trellis made of it with meshes of a
good size (2§ inches or 3 inches), so as to allow
for the packing in of peat, which should be
broken up into lumps sufficiently small to be
forced through the meshes. Starting from the
bottom, it should be packed quite hard, and
then the plants, either Hymenophyllums or
Trichomanes, or even young Todeas, should be
pegged to it. The trellis should be kept at a
distance of about 3 inches from the wall by
means of hooks, thus allowing a bed of material
sufficient for them to grow on for several years
without being touched. That is the way in
which they are grown most successfully by Mr.
Cooper Foster, in Upper Grosvenor Street.
Another easy method of covering a wall is that
practised at Glasnevin. There flat iron bars,
about 4 inches wide, are fixed in the wall
horizontally at distances of about 15 inches
apart, and the space between is filled up with
compressed boggy peat, in which Filmy Ferns
luxuriate. It is Kept constantly 'moist by
means of water being poured with a syringe or
spouted pot from the top, and allowed to run
down between the wall and the plants. Do not
on any account syringe them overhead ; they
derive quite sufficient moisture in the way just
stated and keep their fronds ia a healthy state
much longer. Another w;ay of placing Ferns on
walls is to nail virgin cork on them, and form in
it pockets for their reception. Commence at
the top and work downwards, using some large
pieces and some small—the large overlapping
will form the pockets; or, in order to give a more
natural and rugged appearance, procure some
iron stay brackets 6 inches long, let 2 inches
into the wall; the stays should he put in every
3 feet 6 inches, horizontally. On these lay a
sfnall bar or rod of iron, procure some sandstones
of different sizes and lengths, and lay them on
the bars alternately in different sizes so as to
form a rugged and broken appearance. The
stones should have a little cement put behind
them to hold them securely against the wall.
The rows of stays should be a foot apart. The
Filmy Ferns thus placed will soon cover their
supports and will look as if growing on a natural
miniature rock.

Auriculas flowering in autumn.— We
have now arrived at a critical period in the
culture of the show Auricula. The plants
should be placed where they are shaded from
the direct rays of the sun. The north side of
a wall or fence is the best position for them;
the lights ought to be removed as much as pos¬
sible, and all this is done to keep the plants
from being unduly excited. It is very easy to
obtain a strong vigorous growth, but the result
of this means a plentiful autumn bloom, the
most undesirable state for the Auricula to get
into. It is the special dread of the exhibitor.
If flower trusses are thrown up now, the plants
have time to form a new crown, and they are
likely to flower fairly well next spring, though
not so well as if they had not attempted to
flower. September and October trusses, which
are far too common, are even more undesirable.
It is a good plan to keep the plants moderately
dry at the roots. Alpines require treatment
very similar to the others. Any offsets that are
sufficiently strong should be taken off now,
carefully potted in small pots, and placed in
hand-lights. They do not form roots so readily
at this season as they do in spring, and they
must also be carefully attended to to prevent
damping off. Offsets Btruck in spring or later
must also be potted on into larger pots as they

progress in growth. These young plants would
keep in moderately good health in very small
pots for nearly twelvp months, but they make
but little progress in growth unless potted on
as soon as they require it. Such plants seldom
give any autumn bloom, and may probably yield
a truss in spring good enough to obtain a
premium reward at an exhibition. Seedlings
raised early in the year require potting on in
the same w T ay. With good culture they will
bloom in 3-inch pots, and even produce large,
well formed trusses. This year’s seed, sown a
month ago, is now up, at least some of it, but
the largest proportion will lie dormant until
spring. The little seedlings must be pricked
out as soon as they are Targe enough to be
handled.—D.

Fernery creepers.— A very good effect
may be produced in a warm fernery by growing
the small-leaved variety of Ficus repens called
minima, and the Pothos celatocaulis, which has
large orbicular leaves of a pleasing pea green ;
botn plants stick of their own accorel to anything
moist, and both retain their foliage for a very
long time. Their effect, when intermixed, is
charming. Another useful plant is Pellionia
Daveauana, which grows luxuriously when
shaded, and thus treated the marking of the
foliage is much more distinct than when exposed
directly to light. It is of just as easy culture
as the Tradescantias, like them, running about
and rooting everywhere. The centre portion of
the leaf is of a pale glaucous green, while the
outer part is bronzy in hue, thus forming a
striking contrast. Pellionia pulchra is of more
recent introduction, and therefore at present
not so widely distributed, but still it is very
beautiful when grown under the same con¬
ditions as the kind last named. In P. Daveauana
the leaf is narrowed to a point, but in P. pulchra
it rounds off very abruptly, while the colour is
a deep metallic green in the old leaves and
brownish in the young ones. The foliage is
irregularly blotched and marked with light

f reen, thus forming a pretty variegation. The
ittonias are also shade-loving plants, and do
well in a warm house. A couple of good dis¬
tinct sorts are F. argyroneura, the Teaves of
which are of a bright satiny green veined with
pure white, and F. Pearcei, with olive-green
foliage and red veins. In this last the surface
of the leaf is overspread with a peculiar satiny
sheen more pronounced even than in F. argyro¬
neura. Cyrtodeira fulgida has pretty brownish
green foliage, in which the mid-riband principal
veins are marked with silver; their bright
crimson flowers are also very showy. One of
the most indifferent is the variegated Panicum,
which spreads and makes itself at home wherever
there is the least moisvure. In moist, shady
spots it grows rapidly, but the grassy foliage is
not distinctly variegated, while, when more
exposed to light, the white variegation is better
defined, and sometimes suffused with pink.
Some of the Selaginellas make beautiful carpet
plants; one of the most useful is the common
green Kraussiana, or, as it is often erroneously
called, S. denticulata. This is really a green¬
house plant, and when grown in that tempera¬
ture lasts longer than in the stove, where its
growth at first is much more rapid, but after a
time is apt to decay if kept too moist. How¬
ever, that matters but little, as if pulled to
pieces and again dibbled in, it becomes estab¬
lished in a few days. The golden variety ia
also very pretty. S. exaia, or uncinata, too,
grows readily, and quickly covers a considerable
space. This list might be stil. further extended,
but the few herein mentioned rank amongst the
best.—H. P.

The Guernsey Lily.— All the Nerines are
beautiful, and this one is no exception to the rule.
Imported bulbs may now be obtained, and these
generally flower in a week or two after they are
potted. We obtain the best results, however,
from old-established bulbs. Nerine sarniensis ia
really a native of Japan, and Thunberg says it ia
(or was) quite common on the hills about
Nagasaki. Its introduction to Guernsey waa
accidental. A ship from Japan, having some
bulbs of this plant on board, was wrecked on the
coast, and the bulbs bloomed soon after they
were washed ashore. Shortly afterwards, on its
appearance in England, it received its no^v-
popular name of Guernsey Lily. When well
grown few bulbous flowers are more beautiful
than these Ndrines, their rose-crimsor dr scarlet

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

August 9 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

261

blossoms being seemingly besprinkled with gold
dust when seen in the sunshine. Belladonna
Lilies (Amaryllis Belladonna) may also now be
obtained as imported, and are very showy for
greenhouse or window decoration when bloomed
in pots. Planted out in well-drained sandy soil
in front of a hothouse or vinery wall in sunshine,
they are quite hardy, and, as a rule, bloom more
abundantly when so treated than they do under
pot culture.— V.

Picturesque conservatories. —Perhaps
you will kindly allow me to express my dissent
from the opinions and advice given in a recent
issue of Gardening under the above heading.
I think that attempts to imitate nature on a
small scale in conservatories, by what is called
picturesque arrangement, are trifling and
puerile. They are like the attempts of children
to build little houses of small bricks, or to make
miniature garden plots edged with pebbles from
the garden walks. I think that nature’s
arrangements can only be imitated to advan¬
tage on her own scale of magnitude, and that
attempts at picturesque arrangement in con¬
servatories result in toy imitations. I admire
your illustration on paper, for there is not a
vestige of a greenhouse or conservatory about
it; and I admire it as an illustration of natural
picturesque arrangement in some portion or
other of nature’s wide domain ; but you cannot
have this in a conservatory without showing
the conservatory and some of its belongings,
any more than you can have a plant under a
bell-glass without showing the glass. I was
taken into a rockery under glass the other
day, which had cost some hundreds of
pounds—I forget how many. There were
naturally shaped rocks, and weather-worn
cliffs, a small stream and a little bridge, and
nooks and crannies and corners of all kinds,
and Ferns and other suitable plants in luxurious
abundance; but the whole thing seemed a
childish attempt to imitate nature, and I was
glad to escape to the greenhouses, with their
pots, and stages, and tables, and well-grown
plants. A conservatory is a conservatory, and
imitates nothing. It only affords protection
from unfavourable weather, and enables us, in
this variable climate, to grow many plants to a
state of perfection to which they could not
attain outside. It is unnatural to turn them to
any* other purpose. I would not give one view
of my greenhouse table as it is at present for a
view of all the picturesque conservatories in the
country. It is only 15 feet long by 4 feet wide,
and it stands, not at the back wall, but next the
front glass. Amongst other things, there are 16
varieties of Geraniums of different kinds, eight
varieties of Fuchsias, a lot of Begonias, a pot
of Mignonette, another of Heliotrope, and a
Lemon-scented Verbena. Every plant except
the Verbena is in full bloom, and as the plants
are well grown, and of a more or less uniform
height, according to their kind, the effect is, to
say the least of it, good. The only supple¬
mentary house I require is a comfortable
potting-house. My friends, when they approach
the greenhouse within smelling distance, exclaim
“What a delightful scent!” and when they
come to the door, “ Eh ? W r hat a show !” and
that is much more gratifying to me than the
insipid remarks, “ How pretty !” “ How

picturesque!” I would advise amateurs to
stick to their stages, and tables, and pots, for
the sake of good taste and on the score of clean¬
liness.—P. K.

- The drawing given of a conservatory

full of Palms and great-foliaged plants is very
lovely, but it would require a very large one to
make it effective, and there are not many who
can have such. But there is no need for ugly
pots and wooden stands to be seen ; by a little
management the pots can be concealed, and for
the wood stages wirework can be substituted.
For the benefit of those who, like myself, have
only small conservatories, I will describe mine,
vhich is much admired by my friends. It lies
in a recess between the drawing-room and
lining-room, is a snan roof, about 19 feet
quare ; the back, which runs to a gable, is
covered with a strong wire trellis, against this
wre trained evergreen plants, such as Plum-
agos, Habrothamnus, Indian Jasmines, Cytisus,
.VljutUons, and the great tuberous Fuchsias,
fiiey are planted in alxjrder 2 feet wdde, which
i hlled with Ferns,/SelaginelkS|“-**(l ■'Much
like, growing throu|h_jvfcdfcc (fafirt^wdth

occasional spaces for pots of Lilies, Arums,
Brugmansias, Ac. ; the pots are quite concealed
by the luxuriant growth of Ferns. In the
centre of the house there is a square of 10 feet
of two rows of hot-water piping, one over the
other. To conceal them there are close wire-
work stauds running round the square, over the
pipes, and the centre is filled with a pyramidal
wirework stand, 5 feet high, on the centre plat¬
form. The pots of flowering plants are inter¬
spersed with Ferns, Begonias (Rex), Lycopods,
Coprosmas, and other well-furnished foliaged
plants, and, round the outer stands, drooping
plants of many kinds. The side walls have
three wire bowers at each side between the
pilasters that support the roof. They have two
shelves, one at the top, about 5 feet from the
ground, the other 18 inches. On the latter are
only Grasses, Dracaenas, and Ferns, as the drip
from the upper shelves would injure flowering
plants; but the sides have climbing plants
trained up them, and the top shelves hold two
rows of pots, those to the front generally droop¬
ing plants, such as Fuchsias, Tuberous Begonias,
&c., the pots being hidden by the plants trained
to the wire arches. Beneath are flat boxes full
of Ferns and Lycopods. This house, being
recessed between two walls, allows only the
roof and front, which faces south-west, to be
glass, with about 3 feet projection beyond the
walls, and, in consequence, the plants get much
drawn up if left too long in it, and this obliges
me to have them frequently changed ; but, of
course, all the flowering plants are brought in
from outside the houses, and I have generally
a brilliant mass of colour in the centre. I
omitted to say I have wire-baskets hanging
from the arches of the side bowers full of droop¬
ing plants, such as Hoyas, Blue King Lobelias,
Campanulas, &c. One great advantage of wire-
work over wood in conservatories is it affords no

f daces of concealment for snails, slugs, wood-
ice, and all those plagues, besides being durable.
I had several coats of dark bronzy green paint
given mine before we put in the plants, and that
only twice in the twenty years they have
been up, and no repairs have been needed.—
A. M. 0. I.

Winter-flowering Tropaeolums.— No
greenhouse should be without some of these,
as they are undoubtedly the most brilliant of
winter bloomers, and curiously enough their
vivid tints intensify as the days grow shorter.
The growth of these plants is so free and grace¬
ful that nothing can be better fitted for
clothing the back wall of a greenhouse or train¬
ing to the rafters, and when adorned with their
showy flowers they appear to recall more than
any plant I know the glories of summer. Young
plants potted up now and encouraged to grow
freely will make flowering specimens by winter.
Give them a rich, free soil, and place them at
once in the positions they are to occupy ; they
will then benefit by the extra w’armtn that a
glass roof affords. They will grow and flow'er
in ordinary greenhouse temperature all the
winter, and will make a glorious show in early
spring. Like many winter-flowering subjects,
they are more happy in a constant gentle tem¬
perature of about 55 degs. by day, but the close
saturated atmosphere of a stove, although it
promotes leaf growth, leaves the shoots to be¬
come too weakly to bloom well.

Seedling Ferns. — I find that the best plan
with these is to prick them out as soon as they
can be conveniently handled into well-drained
pots or pans in a compost of well-sanded fibrous
peat. The great point is to keep the soil in an
unvarying state of moisture. Damping is the
chief danger to be guarded against in the raising
of young Ferns from spores. When pricked off
the young plants should be placed under a hand-
light, or in a close frame in a warm, shady
structure. Give them air freely every morning
for an hour or two, and they will come along
quickly, and may, when large enough, be potted
separately into small pots, and grown in a moist,
genial temperature.—B.

A few good Fuchsias.— Few summer¬
flowering plants can compare with Fuchsias
either for elegance of habit and flower or for
long continuance of the period during which
they may be had in bloom. I find it best to have
a good quantity of old plants for early flower¬
ing ; young plants struck from cuttings late in
the autumn, and kept gently growing during
winter in a temperature of about 50 degs.,

make fine flowering specimens by midsummer,
and by the time these get exhausted the spring-
struck cuttings will be good plants. But
Fuchsias may be had in beautiful bloom two or
three times during the summer by giving the
plants a rest. Pinch off all seed-pods and
flowers, and set them out of doors in a partially-
shaded situation, giving them a top-dressing of
rich manure, and they will quickly start into
growth, and flower as freely as they did when
first re-potted. As to sorts, there are few that
can excel Mrs. Marshall among old varieties;
Avalanche, Sunray, Venus de Medici, and
Madame Cornelisson are also very pretty. But
for size of individual blossoms some of the
newer kinds are certainly a great improve¬
ment on these. There are many ways of train¬
ing Fuchsias, but, as a rule, the less of arti¬
ficial training they get the better. Provide
just stakes enough to support the strongest
shoots, and let all the side sprays grow and
flower, drooping naturally.—J. G.

Culture of Hedychiums. —The great
point with these is to get them to make a strong
growth, as, unless they do so, they will not
bloom well. You say you have drenched them
with water, and kept them almost dry ; but you
cannot expect to succeed by depriving them of
water, and it is only when the pots get full of
roots, and they are in strong growth, that they
can be watered very liberally. In April, if the
pots are full of roots, they should be shifted, but
if they have not made good growth the previous
year the best way is to work away all the old
soil, and replace in pots just large enough to
contain the roots, using good loam with a little
leaf-soil and plenty of white sand. Water only
when dry, a*d then just enough to moisten the
soil. This will cause them to make plenty of
roots, and when the pots are full of them shift
into larger pots. Let them have plenty of light
and air in fine weather, and in hot weather,
when they are in fine growth, give plenty of
water.— J. Cornhill.

MImulus moschatus ruber.— This is a
pretty robust growing, yet dwarf, variety of
the common Musk, highly fragrant, and bearing
large flowers of a pleasing shade of reddish
buff, with, in most specimens, deep orange
margins to the petals. Its dwarf, free flowering
habit renders it useful for conservatory decora¬
tion, as it furnishes a colour almost wanting
therein, besides which it is highly prized for
its scent.

11791.—Camellias, Azaleas, and Rho¬
dodendrons from seed.— The proper time
to sow these is in April, in a cool greenhouse or
frame, or in February in warmth. Take 6-inch
pots, fill them one-fourth full of crocks, laying
thereon some fibrous material; then fill to
within half-an-inch of the rim with fine fibrous
peat, adding to it one-fourth of white sand.
Shake the surface firm and water sufficiently to
moisten the soil through before sowing. Azalea
and Rhododendron seed is very small, and
should only be just covered with very fine soil.
Put a pane of glass on the pot, and stand where
there is no draught, as the less watering re¬
quired until the seed germinates the better.
When the plants uppear let them have a light
position, and when large enough to handle
prick them out in sandy peat about an inch
apart. Grow through the summer in a frame
or cool greenhouse, except the Rhododendron,
which will be better in the open air in a cool,
sheltered place from the time they have three or
four leaves.—J. C. B.

11782.—Hydrangeas not bloomingr—
The usual reason of these not flowering is lack of
sufficient stimulant. They should be grown in
moderately rich compost, the plants being -well
exposed to light and air to well ripen the shoots.
If the plants are crowded up with the ordinary
occupants of a greenhouse, and shaded, the
growths will be green enough, and apparently
strong, but they are not likely to flower. It
would be better to place the plants out of doors
to make their growth during the summer, fully
exposed to the sun; the growths would be
brownish green and short-join ted, while those
made in the greenhouse would be longer jointed.
-J. D. E.

- If your plant is an old ©ne, and

has not bloqmed, it : i^ a- sign that it has
not had enough food and air. Hydrangeas
are gross feedferi, and when growing
freely |L| Vjpwpt p^jB^ter. ^

262

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

• [August 9, 1884 .

attending to the following simple rules you
will succeed in growing them well :—In Feb¬
ruary prune back the strong shoots made the
preceding year to two eyes, and cut out all
weakly wood. As soon as young shoots form,
shift if so desired in larger pots, using good
loam ; but, if they are already in large enough
pots, give them now and then a little weak
manure water. Keep them in a light position,
giving plenty of air on fine days, and about the
last week in May place them in the open air, in
a sunny but sheltered place. Give abundance
of water and liquid manure water through the
summer, and you will get good heads of bloom.
—J. CoitNHILL.

11737. — Treatment of Ferns. — Ferns
love moisture and shade, but there are many
hundreds of kinds, all of which vary more or
less in their requirements. Some like peat soil
best, others prefer loam. That class of Ferns
which grow in a cool house do best as a rule in
peat and loam in equal parts, with plenty of
white sand in it. Good drainage is an essential
point, as, although Ferns like plenty of water
when growing, they much fear stagnant mois¬
ture at the roots. When grown in a green¬
house, or amongst a miscellaneous collection of
plants, they should be placed altogether, so that
they may better get the attention they need.
In hot weather damp the floor and stage
morning and evening, but do not sprinkle the
fronds, as Ferns do not like their foliage wetted.
—J. C. B.

11753.— Treatment of Cacti.— The globe-
shaped Cactus described by Walsall David is
probably either Echinoc&ctus (pr, as it is now
more usually called, Echinocereus) tubiflorus
or E. Eyresii. Both are Mexican plants, and
very similar from a cultural point of view, both
bearing white tubular flowers, which open in
the evening. I have grown E. Eyresii for
many years, and the largest plant at present
in my possession measures 18$ inches in circum-
r erence, and has lately been shifted into a
7 -inch pot, which I mention, as it may serve as
a guide to Walsall David in the treatment of
nis plant. The best soil for Cacti is a good
loam to which a considerable quantity of coarse
sand has been added, and the pots shonld be
carefully-drained, as all succulent plants are
especially impatient of stagnant moisture at the
roots. They do not require large pots, but are
often starved for want of nutriment, many
people being under the impression that they
are self-sustaining. A good top-dressing of
rich soil on the surface of the pot in the spring,
when growth becomes active, and plenty of
water during the heat of summer suits them
well. Soot water once a week during this
time is very beneficial. If this treatment be
followed, repotting once in two years will be
sufficient. This should always be done in
spring or summer, while growth is still going
on, as potting in winter, when the plants are
dormant, is often very injurious. After flower¬
ing they shonld be set out of doors for a couple
of months in full exposure to sun and air, but in
a position where they can be sheltered from
heavy and long-continued rains. The stems of
the scarlet Cactus may possibly be withered
from the plant, having been kept too dry during
the spring. If they do not recover when
sufficient water has been given it will be best to
remove them and encourage the younger

g rowths. From October to March or April
acti should be kept quite dry and safe from
frost, and at this season they often become
shrivelled, but it does them no harm, as they
soon recover under generous treatment, and
flower all the better. They should always be
placed on the sunniest shelf of the greenhouse,
as they can scarcely be too much roasted, and
should be watered with warm water.—K. L. D.

~ These require little pot room, not demanc
ingshifting oftcner than every threeor four yean
They like a very fine, sandy soil, and nothin
injures them more than stagnant moisture atth
roots, therefore the pots must be well drainec
Sandy loam, with a little pounded brie
rubbish, forms the best compost, adding, ho*
ever, plenty of white sand. If a plant appeal
to be suffering turn it out of the pot, and if th
roots are not white and healthy shake as muc
of the old soil off as possible, and repot in a p<
just large enough to contain the roots, waterir
very carefully. From _November to March i
water is required.-

ligitized I:

From November to Mai

■t5d. gle

11789. —Propagating Petunias. —Take
tho young succulent shoots which have not
flowered, cut them to three joints, and insert
a dozen together in well-drained 4i-inch pots,
filled to within half an inch of the rim with
light, very sandy soil. Place in a frame in a
cool situation, shading from sun, keeping close
and the soil moist. They will strike in about
a month, and may then be inured to the open
air. Winter them in a cool house.—J. C. B.

-These plants are very readily propagated by taking

off tho points of the shoots and making cuttings of them
about 3 inches in length. The cuttings will form roots
very readily at this season if they are planted in sandy soil
*nd placed in a close frame or hand lights, shading from
the sun, of course.—J. I). E.

St. John’s Wort for baskets. — Of
ail the shrubby St. John’s Worts none are
more distinct in habit or more floriferous than
is the pretty little species, Hypericum reptans.
On a moist rockery it is quite at home, hanging
its red threads over the stones in a most grace¬
ful way. Each thread is leafy its entire length,
and at the apex bears a golden blossom nearly
as big as that of H. patulum, but drooping
with its face towards the ground—not erect, as
in nearly all the other shrubby kinds. As a
pot plant it is very pretty, and well suited for
hanging baskets in a cool greenhouse, as when
suspended above the line of sight its pendent
blossoms show to the best advantage. It is
perfectly hardy, and easily increased by cuttings
of the young shoots in spring, or by dividing up
old plants. Its worst enemies are the slugs,
which seem particularly fond of its succulent
flowers. This species, H. empetrifolium, and

Hypericum rept-uis (natural aize).

the true H. Coris form a very pretty trio of
dwarf kinds, but, while we find H. reptans
perfectly hardy, both the others require the
protection of a greenhouse with us during the
winter months.—V.

11791.—Azaleas from seeds.— As soon as the seeds
are ripe sow them in pans or pots, using sandy peat. The
seeds are small and must not be deeply covered. Place
the pots on a shelf in tho greenhouse, keep the soil
moderately moist, and wait patiently for the appearance
of the plants.—J. D. E.

11790.— Wintering Lobelias.— They are easily kept
through the winter in an ordinary greenhouse or in a
frame from which frost is excluded. Cuttings put in now
will make good plants by autumn, and if the old plants are
lifted and potted in October many of them will live, but
cutting plants are by far the best.—J. C. B.

-The best way is to sow seeds of the best varieties

as soon as they are ripe, early in September. When they
are large enough prick them out in boxes and keep them
in a wann pit or greenhouse through the winter.—J. D. E.

Leaf-mould.— Good leaf-soil for potting
plants can only be obtained by permitting it to
decay naturally. Thismay bestimulated by turn¬
ing it occasionally and keeping the heap damp
during dry weather. It is a dapital plan to put
a heap into a fowls’ run, where the birds can
tear it to pieces and pick out all insects ; but, of
course, it must be put up together often lest it
become too much mixed with the soil. Leaves
make good vegetable soil, but it is valuable
just in proportion to its earthy state. If used
whilst the leaves are but half-rotten with plants
that have some time to remain in the pots, it
wastes away and leaves the soil light and hollow.

FRUIT.

Strawberry beds. — In forming fresh
Strawberry beds the most important thing is to
trench the ground thoroughly, and next to this
to manure heavily with short, cool manure,
such as that from the cow or pig yard, and,
this done, it must be poor soil indeed that will
not produce good Strawberries. Trenching,
however, as generally carried on by bringing
the subsoil to the surface, is a great mistake,
as it takes years to get it in a fit state for the
roots of plants to feed on, and from its inert
condition, through the absence of vegetable
matter, it binds so closely as to be almost
impervious to atmospheric influences. It fol¬
lows, therefore, that in breaking up the land,
much of the bottom should not l>e brought to
the surface at any one time, but the manure
should be kept well down, for the double
purpose of gradually enriching it, and as a
storage of food for the roots during a long con¬
tinuance of dry weather. Although Straw¬
berries require a deep, rich soil, it should by no
means be loose and hollow, but made as firm
and compact after the trenching as possible, or
the produce will be little else than leaves.

11773.— Planting Strawberries.— The
method of treating Strawberry plants suggested
in this question is not the best one. Plants
that have been growing thickly together in a
nursery bed for twelve months would not give
such good results if they were planted out now,
as young runners of the present year layered
early in July in small pots and planted out in
the first week of August. Such plants put out
at that time in rich deep soil would give as good
or better crops than they would ever produce
subsequently. The plants alluded to in the
question should be planted out at once. They
must be carefully lifted, and planted before the
roots have time to dry up.—J. D. E.

- As soon as possible take up the plants,

trim off some of the oldest leaves, and lay them
in free soil in a rather shady place. Keep them
well sprinkled and watered in hot weather, and
in the course of a month they will have again
drawn root, and will be furnished with a
quantity of white fibrous roots, when they may
be transferred to their permanent positions. In
the meantime the ground should be got ready
by well digging and manuring it, so that,
choosing, if possible, a showery time, the
planting may be done as soon as the plants are
seen to be again starting into growth. Plant
2 feet apart in the rows, and 18 inches from
plant to plant. By laying the plants in
together until they have made new roots their
safety is assured, whereas if transferred to the
open quarters at once many w r ould die or be
crippled before they could grasp the soil.—

11779.— Strawberries not fruiting.—
When it is found that three-fourths of the
plants in a plantation of Strawberries do not
produce any fruit two years in succession, it
may be readily believed that they will not fruit
at all. The best thing to do under such con¬
ditions is to prepare ground for a new bed,
layer runners from those plants that do produce

§ ood crops of fruit, and plant a new bed,
estroying the old one as soon as the new one is
in full bearing. It is also necessary to remember
that bad varieties of Strawberries take up aa
much ground and require the same attention as
good ones. The best kinds to plant are
Vicomtesse H^ricart de Thury, Keen’s Seed¬
ling, President, British Queen, and Loxford
Hall Seedling.—J. D. E.

— You have evidently a barren kind, which grown
very Btrong flowers finely, but yields badly, and which,
although there are now so many fine varieties, appears to
be frequently grown. Root it out and plant, as soon oh
possible, either Marguerite, Sir Joseph Paxton, or Presi¬
dent.—J. C. B.

-The reason of your Strawberries not fruiting ia

because the runners were taken from barren plants.
Destroy all, and procure runners from Turner, Carter anti
Co., or Sutton, in pots, and plant out. I had some fine bear -
ing plants four years old. 1 dug them up am*
divided the roots, and planted in a spare new piece o*
ground. 1 never had so line and productive a crop.—
General.

11773.— Barren Strawberries.—' ‘ Red Rose" cannot
do better than plant out the runners that have fruited or*
a permanent bed. Care should be taken to pull or destroy
any barren plants.— General.

11786.— Grapes shrivelling.— As this happens or*
the top of the bunches at the time of colouring they ar©
probably scalded. Give air freely night and day until th©
fr|ujt has oyi.juuji. Lady Downes isji hr; most sensitive to

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

August 9 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

263

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

THE TIGER FLOWER.

(TIGRIDIA GRANDIFLORA.)

The Tiger Flower is a very old inhabitant of
our gardens, having been first introduced to
them nearly a century ago. The form grandi-
fiora, which we figure, is superior to the ordinary
type on account of its larger and richer-
coloured blossoms, and the deep green of its
sword-like foliage.

to expand their blossoms. When the foliage
becomes decayed in autumn, the bulbs should
be carefully lifted and tied in bunches of
about twelve, according to their size, and hung in a
cool, airy place until next planting season. Some
cultivators allow the bulbs to remain undis¬
turbed during the winter, and in warm localities
and in light soils, perhaps, it is advisable for a
year or two ; but, as a general rule, the plan
recommended is preferable, as it entails but
little trouble, and the bulbs are at hand for the
purposes of propagation. The latter is effected

HARDY FLOWERS FOR CUTTING.

A bouquet of “hothouse flowers ” is an expres¬
sion bo commonly used that it would seem to
imply that hardy flowers, with the exception
perhaps of Roses, are seldom choice enough to
be worthy of cutting. Yet it is a fact that for
personal adornment, the decoration of churches
and rooms, and even for bouquets, wreaths, and
crosses, hardy flowers may be used with excel¬
lent effect. All depends upon the good taste
and skill with which it is done. One reason

THE TIGER FLOWER (TIGRIDIA GRANDIFLORA.)

As regards their culture, about the end of
larch prepare a piece of ground for them, and
in a. partially shaded position so much the
;ster ; thoroughly drain it with rubble, &c.,
id fill i n with a compost of good soil with a
sprinkling of sand, all being well mixed
* together. In the first or second week in April
t*at bulbs from 5 inches to 6 inches apart,

«*i 3 inches deep, placing a little sand under and
A-tund. each. They will require no further

car* except, if the weather be
* 3 terio ®1 “P the^timQher

drw, slight
lthdy|1&egin

by means of offsets, which arc freely produced,
and if carefully removed and treated as above
they will flower the second year. Seeds afford
a wholesale means of propagation. They should
either be sown as soon as ripe or in the follow¬
ing spring in shallow pans, and placed in a
heated frame or greenhouse. As soon as the
seedlings are of sufficient size they should be
pricked off into other pans, after which they
should be treated as matured bulbs, and
in the third and fourth season they will produce
blossoms.

why hardy flowers are neglected for this pur¬
pose is because hundreds of gardens are still
destitute of the finer kinds, and another may
often be found in the manner of their arrange¬
ment, and not in the flowers themselves.

The following list is from a note made one day
lately in the drawing-room of a lover of hardy
plants whose arrangements of flowers had been
the subject of some notice and admiration, and
is given here as being possibly suggestive and
helpful to the readers of Gardening The
broad white marble mantel-piece, with bracket

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

264

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 9, 1884.

above, being a cool, shady position, was the
central point, and attracted the eye at once on
entering the room. Here were placed Iceland
Poppies—orange, and yellow, and white—in a
pail of blue and white china set upon a black
oak bracket ; and below a glass, with the dark
maroon Dahlia Zimpani (which, by the way, is
not a Dahlia at all, but a terribly long-named
thing called Cosmos or Bidens diversifolius
atro-sanguineus). Mingled with the rich, dark
velvet o these were two or three sprays of a
bulb—Calliprora lutea—the buff-coloured, star-
shaped flowers of which have a dark line down
the centre of each petal. A combination such
as this may be allowed, but, as a rule, each
flower is seen to greater advantage when grouped
alone with appropriate foliage, and it was only
here and there that this rule was infringed.
Some Gloire de Dijon Roses cut liberally with
long stems and plenty of their own deep green
leaves, the creamy-white flowers of Dropwort
mingled with Campanula azurea, which also
filled by itself a hanging bracket against the
wall with its dark purple bells, a single fine
stem of the dark crimson Martagon (Lilium
dalmaticum), and white Iceland Poppies in a bit
of blue-green Valaurie ware, were all on or about
the mantel-piece, but the colours were so chosen
and placed that none should clash. Elsewhere,
on carved oak cabinets or tables in different parts
of the room, were fresh Roses in shallow, flat
bowls, the delicate striped blooms of Alstroemeria
hfcmantha in various shades of pink and buff,
and the long-spurred lemon-coloured flowers of
Columbine (Aquilegia chrysantha). Another
glass held a combination of red and black
Poppies (P. umbrosum), with a few spikes of the
pale lavender Bell-flower (Campanula sarmatica),
and as far as possible the foliage of each was
used, or that of some plant as near akin as
possible. A single head of Crinum capense, with
its graceful Lily-like white flowers flushed with
pink, had a setting of leaves gathered from a
strong clump of Day Lilies, since its own were
too few and precious to be cut. A dozen different
species of flowers all gathered from the open
garden were thus represented, and each being
separate, or at any rate distinct, became a study
in itself. From a garden well stocked with hardy
plants there would be no difficulty in doing this
for nine months in the year, while the remaining
three, with good management, would be far
from destitute of both flowers and foliage.

Scentless Flowers, as a rule, are better for
placing in rooms than those which are sweet
smelling, since many—in fact, most—persons
are affected unpleasantly by the latter. Out of
doors, or in very airy apartments, the case is
different, but where heavily keen ted flowers are
used—and they are often too beautiful to
discard altogether—the glasses containing them
should be removed from the room before it is
closed for the evening. Roses should be
changed daily, and strongly-scented Lilies are
unbearable, even for a short time, in a room.
For this reason it is seldom possible to use the
lovely old Madonna Lily, except for a hall or
corridor ; but an exception may be made in
favour of the handsome varieties of the orange-
scarlet Lilium umbellatum, which are scentless,
and look magnificent in a tall glass against a
dark background of wall or curtain, and last a
long time in beauty. Many persons object to
hothouse flowers on account of the sickly,
heavy scent which belongs to not a few of
them ; but it must be granted that, in general,
they are more durable when cut than those of hardy
plants. The subject of the scent of flowers used
for room decoration is one of some importance
and might be studied with advantage, as it is
not only in the evil smelling that discomfort
lurks. The splendid scarlet Poppy alluded to
above is one of the worst of offenders in this
respect, and it is only by standing the flowers,
for some time after cutting, in water, before
the final arrangement, that they can be admitted
into a sitting-room at all. Iceland Poppies, on
the contrary, have little or no smell. The same
may be noticed in other groups of plants. Our
wild Meadow Sweet (Spiraea ulmaria), beautiful
as it is, is almost poisonous from its strong scent
of Almonds, indicating prussic acid ; but some
glasses filled with the neatly allied rose-pink
Spiraea venusta, intermingled with the blush-
white variety S. elegans, set in their own green
leaves, have a charming effect, and are all but
scentless. In short*- wherever hariy flowers,
whether cultivated ^rwi^d^pre 'W? 1 ' judg

ment and good taste, they are equal in decorative
value to the most costly products of the hot¬
house ; while their lasting qualities depend
greatly on the time of gathering. The rule
should bo to cut the flowers early in the
morning, with the dew still upon them; and,
in the case of bulbs and irids, just as the first
buds of the spike are about to open. Lastly,
few things are more depressing than to see
withered flowers left neglected, often until they
are unwholesome, in the glasses where once they
had been fresh and beautiful. The only way to
avoid this is to attend daily to their replenish¬
ing, not necessarily to place fresh flowers in all
cases, but to remove such as are done with, to cut
the stems of. those retained, and to change—not
merely fill up—the water. Those who take the
trouble to do this -will find themselves amply
rewarded in the charm and refinement added to
their apartments, which no amount of costly
etceteras will ever impart. K. L. D.

Why amateurs fail with hardy
plants. —It may be useful to some readers if I
put together a few notes as to why those
amateurs who are fond of bedding frequently
fail when they attempt to decorate their
gardens with hardy plants. The principal
cause is an overweening admiration for trim¬
ness, neatness, and a general shaven and tidy
look. Even with bedding plants this blunder
is committed. Where bedding is properly
carried out many of the beds are turned up
rough for the winter, almost as rough as plough
land. Those which are planted for spring, as
well as summer effect, have 6 or more inches of
fresh soil added before the summer bedders are
planted. But this will not do for the bedding
amateur ; his beds must be raked flat and tidy
all the winter, and the consequence is that the
soil is not in a good state in spring, and the
plants make a poor growth. When the bedding
man plants hardy flowers he plants them without
the slightest acquaintance with their require¬
ments. Plants requiring leaf-mould only, and
which fresh manure will kill, are placed
next to plants which will take strong manure.
Shade-loving plants are placed in the sun,
and sun-loving plants in the shade, and
greedy plants are placed close together instead
of being placed amongst those which thrive on
short commons. The bedding man cannot bear
the sight of a withered leaf or a flowerless

E lant, consequently he kills the most of his
ulbs, and weakens his herbaceous plants by
cutting off the leaves the moment the bloom is
over. Perhaps the most fertile sources of
failure, however, are digging and forking over
the borders in winter and summer. Many
plants make a free root growth in the autumn,
and although the actual feeding roots die in the
winter the trunk roots remain, and shoot out
fresh fibres when the plants start in the spring.
Digging amongst the plants W'ounds and tears
the roots, and cuts them off, and a weakly
growth is the result. When the plants begin to
grow weeds begin to grow also, and instead of
hand-picking them, or hoeing them with a hoe
which w T ill not penetrate more than an
inch, all the roots are cut and torn,
and the plants make a miserable bloom.
A fertile source of failure springing from over¬
tidiness is the refusal of suburban gardeners to
set apart a corner for manure, leaf-mould, and
rubbish, to replenish the soil when required. I
have frequently noticed the gardens visible
from all the railways about London but two,
and in no single instance have I ever noticed
any provision for good cultivation—no hotbeds
or heaps of rotting manure, no piles of charred
refuse and trimmings, no heaps of Grass
mowings and leaves rotting into leaf-mould—
all is swept and garnished, clean and tidy, and
the plants starving, and all that would keep
them in health periodically carried away or
burnt to ashes. It cannot be too widely known
that that small heap of ashes which remains
when a plant is burnt is all that the plant has
taken from the real soil. The rest of its food is
partly absorbed from the air and partly from
decaying matters, vegetable and mineral, mixed
with the soil, so that if what a plant takes of
these is not annually returned to the soil, it
becomes impoverished and the plants die.—J. D.

Watering Primroses.—I quite agree with
*‘J. C.” that Primroses require watering to
keep them alive in hot weather if they are

planted in a bare border exposed to the full sun
in summer, but that is just where Primroses
should never be. Nothing hinders the spread
of hardy plant gardening more than the un¬
reasoning attempts which are made to grow all
kinds of plants under the same conditions and
in the same soil. Every garden, even the
smallest, should .be to a certain extent an
epitome of nature, reproducing all the usual
varying conditions of wood, down, rock, sand,
loam, peat, and clay. The plants will then
remain in health with a minimum of trouble,
and rarely require artifical aid.—J. D.

The Spire Lily (Galtonia can dicans).

—It seems to be generally thought that the
name Galtonia should supersede that of
Hyacinthus, as applied to the autumn Spire
Lily. It is now a well-known and much-
admired plant in all good gardens. I have
somewhere read that it naturally grows in very
light and loose soil—so light and open, indeed,
that in collecting the bulbs the hand could be
thrust down quite easily to the depth of a foot or so
where the bulbs were. This contains a hint for
cultivators, some of whom have now and then
complained to me of the failure of imported
bulbs. Here a hole is dug a foot deep ana three
bulbs placed therein on a layer of coarse, dry
sea sand ; more sand is placed over the bulbs,
and the holes are then filled up with leaf mould
instead of the ordinary soil. So treated, not
one good bulb in fifty will fail to grow and
flower.—B.

The Scarlet Windflower (Anemone
fulgens).—In order to ensure early and good
flowers of this Anemone, the roots should be
planted as early as possible in the autumn. Some
leaves will make their appearance in September
or October with a rounded three to five-lobed
outline ; these will be succeeded in January by
finely and deeply cut leaves, and soon afterwards
by flowers. A good bed of well-grown plants of 4
A. fulgens in full bloom is a gorgeous sight; but
it is not only useful for outdoor decoration alone,
inasmuch as the cut flowers will be found to ex¬
pand beautifully in water, and last for a week
or more if cut when just coming into bloom and
kept in a moderately warm room. The Scarlet
Windflower may be considered to be perfectly ‘‘■I
hardy, inasmuch as it has been known to with- V
stand, in the open border, the severest frosts of
the last ten or twelve years; it is scarcely, indeed,
if ever, injured by mere cold, but stagnant
moisture is very detrimental to it. No hardy
spring flower can compete with it as regards
brilliancy of colour, which, when lit up by bright
sunshine, becomes perfectly dazzling. In good, ^
well-drained soils it will succeed anywhere, but
it thrives best in a rich loam on a northern aspect
and in a somewhat shaded situation. To insure
success it should have a liberal supply of manure
incorporated with the soil, which should be
mulched with stable manure before frost sets in.
Division of the roots is the surest and most
rapid way of propagating it.

Milla biflora for cut flowers. —This
beautiful Liliaceous plant comes from Mexico,
and has, as a rule, been everywhere badly
cultivated, owing to receiving treatment too
artificial to suit its constitution. About two -
months ago I received a few bulbs of it, which
on receipt I planted in the open ground in the
same manner as one would plant Gladioli, and
now they are in full bloom. The flowers are
nearly as large as those of a Eucharis, and.
snowy white. They last a very long time in
perfection, and in a cut state cannot easily b>e
superseded. This plant grows naturally near
the city of Mexico, together with Bouvardia.
longiflora and Tigridia Pavonia, and the natives ^
gather the flowers in the same way aswe do ;
our Primroses, and bring the flowers to market,
■where they arc much appreciated. The bu-ll^s ‘ A
resemble those of a Crocus. In autumn they -
should be taken out of the ground and kept dry 3
and planted again in the spring. Milla bifloi-a, «
delignts in sandy, loamy soil ; it should have
full sunlight and abundance of water. Under 1
this simple treatment it might be made to suc¬
ceed in every garden, and its beauty is so great
that it will repay any little trouble growers
take with it. We have among bulbuous plants
nothing to be compared with it.—B. Roezl.

Carnations from „ cuttings.—I Ha.v©

always been taught to propagate Carnations by

lsyip^; |Spd have\foh j & g£<Rl while
followed that plan unhesitatingly ; but the incon-

URBANA-CHAMPAIuN

it

August 9, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

265

venience and trouble of it, not to say its untidi¬
ness, have led me to discontinue it, and for
that part I have never yet heard any reason
assigned for the preference given to the layering
system. By cuttings is twenty times easier and
far more convenient. We have hundreds of
Carnations all over the place, in beds and on
borders and layering the stock there means
many barrowfuls of compost and very tedious
work, not to speak of the unsightliness of the
hillocks patched by stones to keep the birds
from pulling away the compost in their search
for worms in dry weather. With us anything
of that kind is at once scattered by the birds,
as we are in the midst of woods. By cuttings,
on the other hand, a barrowful or two of soil
and one or two square yards of ground are all
one wants in addition to hand-light tops or
cloches, which are handier and cheaper. If,
under these, cuttings are inserted in August or
July, every one wifi, strike, and make as good,
if not better, plants than layers. They have
only to be inserted, and the cloches put over
them and left on, and shaded in bright weather;
but the cloches do not need moving for ventila¬
tion, as the cuttings need none under such
circumstances—even with cloches without holes
at their tops. After the cuttings are rooted,
air should be admitted gradually, and in a few
days tho cloches may be taken off altogether.
This is, indeed, the way to root mostly all
hardy plants, and hardly one will fail. I put in
some Carnation cuttings received in October
last year in this way, and did not lift the cloche
off once till April, last spring, when tho plants,
by that time well rooted, were transferred to
the flower beds anil are now in flower, but they
are not so early or so strong as July or August
put in cuttings, of course. Cuttings rooted in
this -way may be left exposed all the winter
where they were struck or potted up, just as
needful. Plants that have never been potted
or nursed flow er best, and hence it is a good
plan to dibble cuttings in on the border vvhere
they are to grow and flower, and if these patches
become too crowded a portion of the plants can
be transplanted in spring. Too much praise
cannot be bestowed on the French cloche for

propagating purposes.—J. S. W.

Caltha palustris. — This is one of the
handsomest of the many flowers w'hich adorn
the banks of our rivers, and is really worthy of
a place in ponds, lakes, and other ornamental
waters. Its large, brilliant, golden cups are
set off by its handsome dark green shining
leaves, sharply notched at the edges, some of
them enfolding the stalk, which is hollow and
succulent. The flowers last a long time in
water, and the buds unfold themselves into
more really perfect flowers than those which
expand out of doors, subject to the wind and
tide. They are known variously under the
name of King-cup, Marsh Marigold, and in
Lincolnshire by the name of “ Water-blob.” A
quantity of these flowers arranged with Grasses
in a wide bowl of jdark crimson ware, capable
of holding plenty of water, forma a really
splendid decoration for a hall, and lasts a long
time.—P., Jsleicorth.

117S1.— Plants for front garden.— To
make a small garden look nice all through the
season would require that a large variety of
plants be grown in it. Snowdrops, Scillas,
Crocuses, Chionodoxa Lucilue Hepaticas, a
few of the best Narcissi, Tulips, and Hyacinths,
would be enough for spring flowering. After
these Stocks, Asters, and a few choice bedding
plants put out between the patches of the bulbs
would continue the beauty and interest of the
^*arden until the frost came. After that there
s not much can be done until spring flowers
om again.—J. D. E.

11748. — Irises from seed.— The young
v*flbe may be left where they are, and will in
me make flowery plants ; but the better plan
nil be to transplant them on to a good piece of
sound when the foliage dies off—that is, if
*y are bulbous-rooted kinds. If they are of
to Flag Iris section they should be trans¬
muted in March. The soil should be well
* 5 , and all lumps broken, w-orking in plenty of
broughly decomposed manure ; and, if the
^ral soil is stiff, adding some river sand or
W-mould, or anything of a similar nature.

faat about the middle of March, Betti
■fcut 4 inches apart; gCmP when tl
ground mulch tH fcmg 4jt) \bj

them

of dung, giving a good soaking of water in hot
weather. In the course of two years they will
make flowering plants.—J. C. B.

11758.— Lilium candidum.— The white
Lily often fails to flower the year after planting
—it dislikes disturbance. If planted in light,
rich soil which has been long uuder cultivation,
and is well drained and in good heart, they
will be all right next year. They dislike fresh
manure, and, as far as I have seen, do best
where the surface soil rests on porous gravel.
Crown Imperials also dislike disturbance, and
frequently miss flowering the first or second
year after moving. They do best in a light,
rich, well-drained soil.—J. D.

Clove Carnation Gloire de Nancy. —A fine
gathering of this has reached us from Mr. Ware, llalc
Farm, T-ttenhani. Notwithstanding the severe drought
they have been subjected to, the flowers are really fine.
This Carnation is one of the grandest of summer-flowering
plants, and everyone should grow it.

11752.—Treatment of Edelweiss.—I found the
Edelweiss do best in coarse grit mixed with turfy loam and
Crass roots in a sloping, well-drained position in full run.
The plants should be put out now, so as to get established
before winter. In winter they look quite dead, but little
white buds begin to Hhow in early spring.—J. D.

11750.—Tulips and Crocuses after blooming.—
When Tulips are small and split into offsets, and Crocuses
make small conns, it is a sign they have not been propfirly
fed during growth. For pot culture a double set should
be grown. The Tulip9 should be planted out in autumn
in nice loam from rooted turf, and prevented from flower¬
ing next spring; they will then make nice bulbs for potting
in autumn. The Crocuses need only be planted out in rich
light soil.—J. D.

THE COMING- WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Pot a good batch of Dutch bulbs as soon as
they can be obtained. The best soil for these
is a light, fibrous, sandy loam, enriched with
old cow manure. Place the pots in a dry,
sheltered position, and cover them over to the
depth of 3 inches or 4 inches with old tan or
Cocoa-nut fibre. Attend to the staking and
tying out of Chrysanthemums, Salvias, or any
other soft-wooded plants that are liable to get
damaged by wina. Any autumn-blooming
herbaceous plants in pots, such as Schizostylis
cocciuea, Stokesia cyanea, and the dwarf varie¬
ties of Michaelmas Daisies, must not be allowed
to suffer from drought now that their flowering
season is so near at hand. Attend to pricking
out and potting of Humeas, Calceolarias,
and all seedling plants. Put in a good
batch of cuttings of the best free-growing
Fuchsias. Choose young-growing plants of these
that are free from flower-buds, as they always
make good growth during .winter, and will
rapidly develop into fine plants when spring
comes to their assistance. Nerines (Oleanders)
that have received a thorough ripening in the
full sun should now be shaken out and re¬
potted in rather poor, sandy loam. Keep
Crinums and Amaryllises dry at the roots and
fully exposed to the sun. Attend to thinning
out all kinds of annuals in pots before they get
crowded, and make sowings of Intermediate
Stocks and a large batch of Mignonette for
spring flowering.

Fuchsias should have their seed-pods picked
off regularly, or they soon cease to flower
freely ; they ought to be supplied twice a week
with weak manure water. Double Petunias are
very useful at this season, either as decorative
plants, or for furnishing cut flowers. These
should receive regular attention in the way of
stopping and tying, to induce them to break
back, or, from their quick, somewhat straggling
habit of growth, they become unsightly.
Lilium auratum is a most useful subject
for conservatory decoration at this season,
but should not be introduced in too great
numbers at a time, as its perfume, being so
powerful, is oppressive. Attend well to the
different varieties of Lilium lancifolium, by
keeping them neatly tied up, and supplying
them regularly two or three times a week with
manure water, otherwise the soil becomes ex¬
hausted, and they lose their bottom leaves, which
destroys half the beauty of the plants. They
must on no account be allowed at this season to
suffer from want of water.

Achimenes should have every attention as they
go out of bloom to assist them in forming and
ripening their tubers ; the best place in which to
treat them at this season for that purpose is a pit
or frame where they can be kept moderately
close and shaded, in addition to which they

should be freely syringed overhead, that the
leaves may be maintained in a fresh, healthy
condition. Achimenes are too frequently stowed
away directly they cease flowering or become the
least shabby, and water entirely withheld from
them, a course of treatment the reverse of what
they require, as it is just at that time assistance
is needed in rendering the drying-off process
gradual and natural. By affording the first
batch a little extra attention, they will form an
abundance of fine, large tubers, superior in every
way to any that can be obtained from thoso now
coming on, which may therefore be discarded as
soon as they have discontinued blooming.

Climbing plants. — Many of the plants
classed as greenhouse climbers, and employed
for covering the usual roof supports, are far
from being fit for the purpose. They are often
such strong growers that they quickly run up
to tho top, leaving the lower portion of tho
illars, where their presence is much wanted,
evoid of leaves. Where plants for use in this
way are required, they arc usually wanted to
give immediate effect, and for that purpose it is
well to prepare them beforehand by growing
them on in pots until they are large enough to
produce some effect at once ; if healthy young
plants are got now, and an extra shift given
them, time will be gained. It is scarcely neces¬
sary to say that instead of having the shoots
pinched so as to form bushy specimens, they
should be trained erect, only stopping a few of
the strongest growths at different heights to
cause these to break out. Subjoined are a few
of the best plants for the purpose : Cantua
dependens bears deep pink flowers, produced
like those of Fuchsia corymbiflora; this is only
fit for a pillar, as its determinately erect habit
makes it unsuitable for growing in the ordinary
way. Hovea Celsi, the lovely blue flowers of
which arc unsurpassed by those of any Pea-
blossomed plant, has a habit which just fits it
for growing on pillars. Habrothamnus elegans,
which is stronger in growth than the two
preceding, can also be easily kept within
bounds, and is likewise an excellent subject
for the purpose indicated. Mitraria coccinea
(the Scarlet Mitre-flower) is another effective
plant in a position of this kind, as by annual
judicious cutting-back it can be had in flower
from the bottom up to any reasonable
height. The old Hoya carnosa, which will
succeed for many years in a very small pot, is
nowhere seen to greater advantage than when
trained to a pillar. The blue Plumbago capensis,
too, needs comparatively little root-space, and
grows up quickly ; its foliage is alxvays neat,
and it will Keep on for many weeks producing
its handsome pale blue flowers. Clianthus
magnificus and C. puniceus are both good pillar
plants, which are not disposed to get too large.
Fuchsia corymbiflora is never seen in bettor
condition than when grown in this way. The
red and white Lapagerias are amongst the best
plants that can be employed for the purpose ;
the only objection to their use being that as
they get old they require considerably more
root room than is afforded by the usually small
space that is available at the foot of a green¬
house or conservatory pillar wherein to turn a
plant out, and if kept in pots or boxes the
arrangement of the house is generally such as to
produce an unsightly appearance. Plants of any
or all of these, well prepared beforehand, will,
w-hen transferred to the positions they are to
occupy, soon obviate the disagreeable effects of
bare pillars.

Flower Garden.

Finish sowing biennials for flowering next
spring, and transplant any such things as require
more room. Collect seeds of anything espe¬
cially worth increasing, and store while quite
dry. Gather Lavender, also leaves of the scented
Verbena and those of other fragrant plants fo"
winter use, as after this time they begin to deterio¬
rate. Regulate the grow r th of all trailing plants,
and pinch or clip any that are planted, so as to
form designs. Amongst the best of plants for
carpet w r ork are the Sedums and Echeverias,
for they are neat in habit and require but little
attention. They are mostly hardy, and will
grow in the poorest soil and driest positions.
The advantage of using this class of plants for
the main design or groundw-ork of beds is, that
when the tender Altcrnanthcras, Coleus, <fcc.,
are removed they arfi easily filled in with hardy
1 subjelct?, and thus rtWd epa^^tjlfiejfi^ri^g"the

winfer TOANA-CHAMPAIGN

2 66

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 9, 1884.

Proceed with the propagation of all the ten-
dereat subjects first, as while there is plenty of
solar heat the work is accomplished quickly,
and well-rooted, early-struck cuttings always
winter well. Compared with those propagated
later, soft-wooded plants, like Coleus, Petunias,
and Verbenas, will strike root in a few days if
kept quite close and well shaded. Pelargonium
cuttings may be inserted thickly in shallow
boxes filled with light soil, and set out in open,
sunny positions. Wo find the most useful
sized box to be 2 feet by 1 foot 3 inches and 3.^
inches deep. Boxes of this kind hold from fifty
to seventy plants, and are easily moved about
by one person, whereas larger ones necessitate
much more labour in removal, and the weight
of soil soon breaks them. Leave apertures in
the bottoms for drainage, over which put a
little rough soil, and then fill up with fine soil,
finishing off with a layer of sand. When
shaken out of this material for potting in
spring, the roots will all come out without
breakage. After insertion give a good soaking
of water to settle the soil firm round the cut¬
tings, after which they are best moderately dry
until they begin to root freely.

One of the best scarlet Pelargoniums is the
well-known Vesuvius, which is dwarf in habit
and extremely floriferous. A good crimson is
General Outram, a variety with large trusses.
Amongst Pinks we find Master Christine and
Mrs. Turner very useful; amongst white varie¬
gated-leaved sorts, Shottisham Pet and May
Queen; for dwarf carpet beds, Little Trot.
The only golden tricolors are Sir Robert Napier,
Mrs. Pollock, and Lady Cullum. Silver
tricolors—Lass o’ Gowrie, Mr. J. Clutton, and
Charming Bride ; and gold and bronze Beauty
of Calderdale, Crystal Palace Gem, Marshal
McMahon, and Robert Burns. Amongst the
Ivy-leaved section, so useful for Vases and
baskets, we find Bridal Wreath, Duke of Edin¬
burgh, Koenig Albert (a beautiful double
mauve), to be all excellent; Peltatum elegans
is also a beautifully variegated variety. We
always grow the Ivy-leaved section in pots,
putting about five cuttings in a 3-inch pot for
the winter, and potting off singly in spring.

Fruit.

Vines. —Muscats now colouring fast maybe
kept somewhat drier, with a free circulation of
air and sufficient fire-heat to keep up the proper
temperature, and in the event of lateral growth
having become somewhat wild—a condition
under which Grapes always swell well—a

g radual shortening back will be advisable ;

ut care must be observed in the preservation
of a good canopy of foliage for the protection
of the fruits from the direct influence of the
sun. For special purposes the colouring may
be hastened by full exposure, but in modern
houses glazed with large squares of 21 oz. glass,
the clear amber colour, so much desired, but
not always attained, may be gained by allowing
fruit, wood, and foliage to ripen up together.
The latest Hamburghs intended for use through
November and December will now be colouring
fast, and, with the exception of a two hours'
close treatment from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., the
ventilators may be kept constantly open. Late
Grapes now safe from scalding, and in most
places colouring fast, must be encouraged with
gentle fire-heat and free ventilation, in order to
get them ripe by the end of September.
Gia lually reduce lateral growths, leaving a good
spread of foliage all over the house. Examine
inside borders, and continue the feeding with
warm liquid manure or guano water until the
colouring process is well on the move, when the
supply of stimulating food may be reduced or
discontinued altogether. Remove the lights if
practicable from the earliest vineries in which

all the wood is thoroughly well-ripened and the
fruit cut, and paint ana repair the house. Where
Grapes are now ripe and hanging, precautions
should be taken against the ravages of wasps
and other depredators, either by placing the
clusters in little muslin bags, or, if convenient,
covering over all openings for ventilation with
sheets of tiffany, hexagon netting, or frigi
domo.

Peaches and Nectarines.— The fruit in cool
orchard houses will now be sufficiently advanced
for full exposure to the influence of sun and
light by being elevated on Bhort pieces of lath
placed across the wire* of the trellis. Nothing
is gained . by ■ get**— -J-

et^ing| jftjn ^lJo£>s<

Peaches, like other things under artificial treat¬
ment, always swell best under a free and
unrestricted growth from the stoning period up
to the time when they begin to swell for ripen¬
ing. As the fruit is placed apex upwards, all
strong growths should be tied down and stopped,
for the two-fold purpose of increasing the size
of the fruit and maintaining the balance of sap
in the lower and weaker parts of the trees.
Houses now clear of fruit and having the roots
inside, will require very careful attention for
some time to come, as next year’s success greatly
depends upon the proper development and
ripening of the buds. To insure this, it is
hardly necessary to say all surplus wood should
be removed prior to cleansing with the hose or
garden engine, and that the foliage should
afterwards be kept in health by means of even¬
ing syringing, liberal ventilation, and copious
watering.

Melons. —Prevent over-luxuriance by means
of a little ventilation at night as well as during
the day, in preference to stinting the supply of
moisture and pinching severely. However, their
growth must be regulated and held in check, and
attention must be paid to the fertilisation of
the blooms. To those whose fruits are swelling
give heavy applications of water, and occasion¬
ally some liquid manure.

Hardy fruit. —It is now time that all sum¬
mer pruning and stopping of shoots should be
finished, as there is now no danger of the trees
making growth to be in any way detrimental
to the formation and full development of fruit-
buds for next season. Any such work still to
be done should be completed as soon as pos¬
sible, after which the shoots should be neatly
laid or tied in, and the ripening fruit be exposed
to the influence of sun and air, by having the
foliage drawn on one side, or, if need be, re¬
moved altogether ; but this should only be done
when the leaves cover the fruit, and so hinder
its colouring properly. Should the summer
continue hot and dry, watering will be a serious
item of garden labour, as it is from this date to
the end of September that fruit trees require
most water. If that should be scarce, mulch
deeply with litter or Grass. Gather Apricots,
Peaches, and Nectarines a day or two before
they are intended to be used, and before
the sun touches them in the morning, they
will then keep for several days in a cool room,
and be all the better for it; of course, they
should be laid on some soft substance,
such as dry Moss or wadding. Early
kinds of Pears, such as Citron des Cannes,
Belle des Bruxelles, and Jargonelle, are now
sufficiently ripe. to gather; it is not well to
allow them to fully ripen on the trees, as then
the flavour is not nearly so good, and the fruit
soon decays. Let all runners required for
forcing and new plantations of Strawberries be
taken off as early as possible, in order that the
beds may be cleared of runners and bad foliage,
after which slightly point over between the
rows, and give a fresh mulching of rotten
manure. Water freely all newly planted beds,
to get growth completed by the end of Sep-
temoer. A nursery bed of runners should be
kept on hand to make good any failure that
may occur.

Vegetables.

Peas, Broad Beans, Frenoh Beans, and stems
of Cauliflower are among the most likely sub¬
jects at present that require to be cleared away,
together with the harvesting of early and second
early kinds of Potatoes. The ground thus set
at liberty should be cropped as follows :—The
best and driest plot should be sown with
Winter Spinach in drills 2 feet apart, the next
best plot with Winter Onions in rows from
15 inches to 18 inches apart; another breadth
with Turnips in drills 1 foot apart. Chirk
Castle Blackstone is a grand variety fer sowing
at this season, and smaller plots should be set
apart for successional sowings and plantings of
Endive, Lettuces, Radishes, and Onions for
salad; a warm border should also be reserved
for a sowing of Cabbage and Cauliflower, in
which position they may winter if afforded
some slight protection in severe weather.

Numerous other operations, too, must have
early attention, such as staking late Peas,
earthing and placing twiggy sticks to French
I Beans, earthing up Celery, thinning out recently
sownTurnipsandCarrots,tying up and stopping
' Tomatoes and taking off part of the foliage in

order to expose the fruit, training out Ridge
Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows, and soiling
them up, cutting and hanging up to dry all kinds
of herbs, removing seed stems from Sea Kale and
the fruit from Globe Artichokes as soon as fit
for use ; from those stools that have done bear¬
ing, too, the old Btems should be cut quite off
at once. If, after all the staple winter crops
are got in, there is still ground to spare, it may ,
advantageously be utilised for a chance crop of
Cauliflowers, for Celery to be used for soups to
save the main Bupply, or for Coleworts, which
at all seasons are acceptable.

To continue the supply of French Beans, pro¬
vision may now have to be made to sow them in
pits or frames ; let the soil be open, moderately
rich, 18 inches in depth, and the drainage open. ,
Sow in rows 15 inches apart, and for Canadian ,
Wonder 18 inches apart. This forces equally
well as the most renowned forcing kinds ; grow
them on in full exposure till the nights become
so cold that they Degin to show a yellow tinge.

A free use of the syringe and abundance of
water will keep them free from insects.

Cucumbers. —The plants for winter fruiting
should now be sown, and cuttings struck from
present fruiters to succeed them. Worn-out
plants may now be cut in rather severely, and
the borders mulched and well watered, and the
linings renewed ; the plants soon make a fresh
start and bear well for some time yet. Attend
to the usual routine of thinning the leaves,
shoots, and fruits whilst in a young state.

Onions. —As soon as these show signs of com
pleting growth they should at once be pulled 2
up, or they will commence to make fresh roots,
which injures their keeping properties. They
are all the better for being dried quickly. Where *
a moderate quantity only is grown that can be g
dealt with in this way—the old method of
spreading them thinlv on a slate or tile roof has
tne advantage that if much wet weather should
follow immediately upon their being drawn they i
are not so liable to root afresh as if laid on the
bed to dry ; or the simple plan may be followed
of tying them in bunches of eight or ten imme¬
diately they are pulled, and hanging them up
on the outside walls of a building that has an
overhanging eave sufficient to thrown off the
rains ; the north side is the best for keeping
them late in the spring, as there they have not
the disposition to grow so early. Shallots, if
not already taken up, should be at once removed
to a dry place and kept there.

Endive and Lettuce.— Ground should now *
be prepared for the principal crop of Endive s
and autumn Lettuce ; for these it ought to be ^
well manured and in a moderately dry position. ^
Do not overcrowd the plants, especially Endive.

The rows of Endive should be 15 inches or 18
inches apart, according to the condition of the
soil, giving the most room where the growth is
likely to be strongest. Lettuce, especially
where the small Cabbage variety (such as Tom
Thumb) is planted, need not have so much
room. More Endive should now be sown. For
general use the Green Curled is most esteemed,
but where the Broad-leaved Batavian is liked a
pinch of each may be put in. Do not sow the
seeds too thickly ; they are liable to the attacks
of birds or insects, and usually almost every
seed vegetates. Previous sowings that are
already up, if too thick, should be thinned out
sufficiently to allow them room, or they get 1
drawn up so weakly as to be long in getting *
hold when planted out. Some Lettuce—Tom
Thumb, Black-seeded Bath Cos, and likewise 11
the hardy Hammersmith—should also be now *
sown ; the last-named sort is not equal in
quality to the Cos varieties, but in many places
it will stand the winter where other kinas would 1
fail.

Moss on lawns.— Moss on lawns may b>e„
eradicated in the following manner : With n,
rake, having about six short sharp teeth and a.
short handle, scratch over roughly the moasy^
places. Having well loosened the soil, sow,
therein some lawm Grass seed, and cover with. a.
little fresh soil, and give the whole of the Grass
plot a dressing of guano. The more the grow^tYV
of the Grass is encouraged the less chance wrill
the Moss have of making headway. A poor
Boil and a correspondingly stunted growth in
Grass favours the formation of Moss ; encourage
■the growth of the former and the latter cannot
ILLIPJUIj AI

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN !

August 9, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

267

ROSES.

DWARF AND STANDARD ROSES.

A mild winter and a wintry spring are not the
most favourable conditions for Roses, but as we
must take the seasons as they come, our best
way will, I think, be to oultivate our Roses in
such a way as to reduce as much as possible the
chances of failure through weather, not that we
shall succeed in this entirely, but by paying
attention to the form of growth and the selection
of proper sites, we may do something to mitigate
the evils arising from our variable climate. As
at present cultivated, no one will deny that the
majority of cultivators invite the frost to kill
their Roses. They do this unwittingly by
giving them too rich feeding, which promotes
succulent growth and renders them an easy prey
to frost. They also select unsuitable positions
for them, perching them high up in the air, as
if so placed to show that the cultivator was
anxious to give the frost every possible chance
to kill them. In the cultivation of the Rose we
must pursue a natural course of treatment if
we wish to attain success over a long course of
years. The standard form cannot be said to be
a rational mode of culture, and no wonder that
Roses grown in this form are the first to suffer
from severe cold. I may be told that I am pre-

Judiced against this form of Rose growing, but
may state that when I plant a Rose tree I want
it to grow and prosper for a reasonable length
of time. If I plant standards I have to renew
them frequently, because they die off so
mysteriously, after being planted a couple of
years or so, that I have neither the time to
prepare new stations for them nor the oppor¬
tunity of purchasing relays of trees to keep up
the stock. I must, therefore, grow Roses in
such a form as will insure their living and
flowering for several years without requiring to
be renewed. I may here mention that I manage
a large garden in which there is not a standard
Rose grown in the open air. It will, therefore,
surprise no one to hear that we grow the major
part of our Roses

As bushes. —A good many are grown in beds
pegged down, and some are made to form edges,
which reach a height of 6 feet, but we prefer
the bush form to all others, and these on their
own roots chiefly. I prefer the own-rooted plants,
because if a severe winter kills all the branches
down to the ground line the portions left have
such recuperative power that in one season they
become re-established. Our beds of pegged-
down plants have been planted fifteen years.
Every plant was struck from cuttings made
in the autumn previous, and the plants are
as vigorous now as ever they were. Our
loss from all causes has not been more than
1 per cent, during all that time. It is, how-
erer, only right to say that all the varieties of
Hybrid Rerpetuals of which I am writing do not
grow so well on their own roots as others. In such
cases we have to resort to the Manetti as a stock
for the weak growers, and as a rule it answers
very well. In the case of varieties that do well
on their own roots, I find that they are really
more vigorous than when budded on foster roots,
a valuable fact, and certainly a strong argument
in favour of own-root Roses. The greatest diffi¬
culty lies in getting very dark-coloured Roses
to grow away well, or, in other words, it is
found that a greater number of comparatively
light-coloured Roses are more vigorous on
itheir own roots than dark ones. Our best dark
l*>rts on their own roots are Charles Lefebvre,
| lar^chal Vaillant, Pierre Notting, Annie Wood,
Mition de Brie, Lord Clyde, Alfred Colomb,
Duke of Wellingfon. The best light-

tloured kinds for our own-root plants are
entifolia rosea, John Hopper, Edouard Morren,
Morel, Anna AlexiefF, Baronne Provost,
ne. Vidot, and Nardy Fr&res. There are,
*«wever t many more in both cases that will
^v fairly well on their own roots. Wo find
* following a very good way of growing the
tre choice and tender varieties of
Iea-scested Roses. —Get some strong plants
Mput them into 8-inch pots. The best time
Mo this is early in February. Use a compost
^ialf-fibrous loam and one quarter each of leaf-
and thoroughly-rotted farmyard manure.
«beep it porous add a good sprinkling of
ttae sand or roadside grit* and pot theproots
•irately firm. It is n|t abepltt'riy

to pot the plants in the first instance in Feb¬
ruary, but in their future management that
month ought to be selected. When potted,
place them in a cold pit or frame, and keep
them Becure from frost, and the soil just moist
about the roots. On all favourable occasions
after the middle of March give them a liberal
supply of air, the object being to keep them
steadily growing, but, at the same time, the
more hardy they are treated without the
tender growths being exposed to frost the
better. About the end of April they may be
taken to a sheltered spot in the open air—
either under a warm south wall or some
similar place. What may be called their
summer treatment should commence in the
middle of May. They should then be taken to
a warm position either in the frame, ground, or
to a warm border in the kitchen garden, where
it will be convenient to water them in dry
weather. The pots should at once be plunged
up to their rims, and then both pots and the
surface immediately around them should be
mulched with a §ood thickness of well-rotted
manure. This nch mulch will quickly en¬
courage the formation of roots on the surface,
and in a few weeks the plants will be growing
vigorously, and as good growth means plenty
of flowers, the cultivator will reap a rich
harvest both of buds and blossoms. Before
severe frost sets in in autumn it will be neces¬
sary to lift the plants, pots, and all, and take
them to some cool, light structure, where they
will be secure from frost during winter with¬
out being in any way excited. A cold pit or
Peach house not forced is the right place for
them. Throughout the winter very little water
need be given to the roots. Early in February
the plants should have what little pruning is
necessary to keep them in shape, and then
about two-thirds of the old Boil should be
shaken from the roots, repotting in a fresh com¬
post, and making the same sized pots serve for
the first three years, after which they may have
pots 2 inches larger. After being potted they
should be returned to their winter quarters,

?;iving the preference to a cold pit or frame
rom which the light can be withdrawn during
mild weather, for the less they are excited the
better. If from my cause the young growths
have got pretty forward by the end of April
they must be kept under cover ten days or a
fortnight longer, and when taken from under
glass they must be gently dealt with at first, so
as to harden them off in a gradual manner. The
treatment during succeeding years must be the
same as that just described, and if skilfully
managed the plants will last in good condition
for many years.

Hybrid Teas. —These are for the most part
indifferent growers, and but little if any hardier
than ordinary Tea-scented varieties, to which,
as regards growth and form of flowers, they have
a strong resemblance, and, like ordinary Teas,
they do better under glass than in the open air.
The first year we grow them in pots in a cool
house, where they did fairly well, but in the
open ground they do not seem to take kindly to
their new quarters. So far as 1 have seen of
them the following are the best—viz., the Hon.
George Bancroft, Michael Saunders, Jean Sisley,
and Viscountess Falmouth. J. C. C.

Striking Rose cuttings.— No better time
can be selected for striking Roses that have
made their growth in the open than the present;
if the cuttings can have the advantage of a hot¬
bed made up for the purpose they will root
quicker than without it, out a specially prepared
bed is not an absolute necessity. I have struck
a good many in my time in a frame from which
an early crop of Cucumbers or Melons has been
taken, and I hope to grow a good many in the
same way this season. I will have some 5-inoh
pots well drained and .filled with fine sandy
soil ; about half-a-dozen cuttings of each variety
will be put into each pot. They will be inserted
firmly in the soil, and then well watered. I
will make the cuttings of medium-sized shoots,
ue. t if I can get sufficient of them that have
not flowered. I prefer them, as they always
make the best cuttings, but flowering shoots
may also be used with safety. The soft tops
and hard bottoms of very strong roots should
be rejected. The base of the cutting should be
made at a joint with two joints above and at
least one leaf. When once the shoot is taken

from the plant it should be prepared and
inserted without delay ; for, if allowed to lie
about and get half withered, the chances are
that many of the cuttings will die. The pots
should be plunged in the frame to their rimp,
and when all is finished the leaves should be
damped with water from a fine-rosed pot. They
should then be shut up close, and given no air
for the first week, during which partial dark¬
ness is also-desirable. To secure these condi¬
tions the frame should be shaded with a thick
mat from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., and during very
bright, sunny days, two mats are desirable.
The leaves and all the inside of the frame must
be damped every evening. At the end of a
week give a very little air at the back of the
frame at night, and gradually reduce the time
during which the shading is applied. In six or
eight weeks they will have made sufficient roots
to bear full exposure to light; more air may
then be admitted, and as soon as they have
made new growth an inch or two in length they
may be potted singly into 4-inch pots, in which
they may remain until the month of May, when
they may be planted out where they are
intended to remain.

Banksian Roses.— These, being nearly
evergreen, are admirably suited for walls, or for
any other position where a large space has to be
quickly covered. A rather large space for the
roots is necessary, and the better the soil the
faster the plants grow ; but experience shows
that elaborate preparation is unnecessary. With
2 feet in depth of fairly good earth, and propor¬
tionate space, Banksian Roses will grow for
many years in a satisfactory manner. To grow
them successfully they require a height of from
10 feet to 16 feet, and proportionate room on
each side for the development of the branches.
When dealing with young plants no pruning is
necessary ; the shoots must all be either nailed
or tied in, but when they have filled their
allotted space the treatment may be altered. In
our strong soil this Rose grows most luxu¬
riantly, and, in order to keep the growth within
reasonable limits, we get the hedge-shears and
clip it in about the end of June, but we should
not think of doing so later ; if we did, we should
expect to see it produce very few flowers next
year. The growth made after the end of June
has time to get ripened and sufficiently hardened
up to form embryo flower-buds before winter
sets in. Such is our treatment of the Banksian
Roso, and there is certainly no room to find
fault with the number of flowers which it pro¬
duces, for they are always abundant.—J. C. C.

Watering and mulching Roses. —Roses
will require plenty of water during dry weather
in hot soil, and where well mulched the second
display of flower will be well advanced by this
time, and in some places a good supply of
blooms for cutting will be kept up till frost
clears all off. Keep down mildew by means of
sulphur, as mildew retards growth very much,
ana young fresh buds suffer greatly from it. If
sulphur be used, it will require to be syringed
off as soon as the mildew is stopped.

11786.— Roses in Peach house.— If the
Roses are in any way shaded by the Peach
trees there is no chance of their doing well.
Roses demand more sun, air, and light than
most things, and if they are not gratified in
these matters they neither grow nor bloom well,
and are more subject to insect plagues than
when accorded the conditions they love. Tho
weaker and more sappy the shoots the more
likely are they to be attacked. The only way
to grow Roses satisfactorily under glass is to
give them a place to themselves, or at any rate
where they get the full light. They will do
well on the back wall of a lean-to house, where
the roof is not occupied by other things. Roses
and Camellias do well together, the Roses trained
rather thinly on the roof, the Camellias under¬
neath them.—J. C. B.

-Roses are more liable to be attacked by insects and

mildew under glass than they are out of doors, but on the
other hand it is easier to dean them. They would do no
harm whatever to the Peach trees if they wero kept clean,
which is an easy matter. Whether they were clean or not,
they certainly could not cause the fruit to fall off thi
Peach trees. Dust tho leaves with flour of sulphur to
destroy mildew, and fumigate with Tobacco smoke to kill
the greenfly.—J. D. E.

11734. -Rose buds not opening. -The reason o
this is probably because the \arieties are such as do not
open well. It may also bo caused by blight or mildew.
Roses, if well exposed to $q*3ight, open better under
glass than they do in the open air.—J. D. E.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

268

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 9, 1884.

VEGETABLES.

Small v. large Vegetable Marrows.—
In the cottagers’ class at an horticultural show
the other day there was a brisk competition for
Vegetable Marrows, but I did not by any means
admire the prize lots. Large size must have
been the first and last consideration with the
judgeB, and this alone I never approve of. The
first prize fruits were green and tanned-lookin*;,
at least 18 inches in length and a great deal
more than a foot in circumference. Pig feeders
might have found them useful, but putting such
Marrows on the table of even a cottager was
quite out of the question. I feel certain that
the judges would never have thought of tasting
them had they been cooked and placed before
them at dinner, and I do not think it is right
that anyone should award a prize to any veget¬
able which is unfit for food The worst of it is,
when produce of this kind is awarded prizes it
is immediately noted, and everyone tries the
following year to show something like it or
larger. There are now some choice Marrows in
cultivation which are more prolific and alto¬
gether superior to such monstrosities, and it
would, no doubt, be productive of general good
were judges to recognise quality rather than
quantity.—C.

Earthing up Celery.— This is a simple
enough operation, and, perhaps, because of its
simplicity, it is often very carelessly done. •
Perhaps I ought to confess that I once was
amongst the delinquents in this respect, and the
probability is that had I not been, this note of
warning would never have been penned, for the
very obvious reason that I should never have
experienced the error I now wish to warn others
against. That grand proverb, “Whatever is
worth doing at all is worth doing well,” did not
always appear to me of such importance as it
now does ; many jobs used to be “scamped”
that to-day would have the greatest care
imaginable ; and why ? because the lessons as to
the difference between good and bad treatment
of even the simplest garden duties have been
noted, and whilst the first pay with much
interest, the other yields nothing but reproach¬
ful thoughts that one should have been so
thoughtless. But now as to the right way of
earthing up Celery. After a heavy rain, or else
a good watering artificially, the suckers or side
leaves are pulled off; each plant is then tied
up closely with bast matting to keep the soil
from getting between the leaves ; the soil is then
chopped down from the sides with a spade and
pressed closely amongst and against the plants
by the hands to such an height only as that the
young leaves springing from the heart of the
plants shall not be in any way crippled by it;
the matting is then cut off and the operation is
complete. We have tried Celery collars for the
purpose of keeping out the soil from the heart
of the plants, and also the plan of letting one
man hold the plants whilst another put in the
soil, but tying with matting has proved to be the
best way, though it takes longer to do. I give
preference to successional earthing, rather than
that the earthing should be left till the plants
arc full grown. The quality of the Celery when
dug is much better when the earthing is done at
intervals than when done all at once.—W.

Onion fly. —In “ Notes on Garden Insects ”
last week the Onion fly is spoken of as a great
pest in some places. It has been so in this
neighbourhood for the past year or two, and
this year most of the crops are seriously affected;
not only so, but the maggot appears inclined
to extend its ravages to the Cabbage tribe. At
present no effectual check to this pest appears
to have been hit upon. Earthing up the roots
themselves, as recommended, will not, I fear,
be of much use, because the fly, as anyone can
see, almost invariably lays its eggs on the green
stem of the Onion, sometimes as much as 3
inches fromtho bulb itself. Whether the maggot
creeps down into the root as soon as hatched
by sun heat, or is washed down while in its
earliest stage by dew or rain, is an open ques¬
tion, but, as it certainly appears to attack the
root from the inside, all exterior precautions in
the ground, such as soot, lime, &c., appear
useless. The only remedy would seem to be
keeping away the fly itself ; and how iB this to
be done ? I have tri$d petroleum |.nd carbolic
mixed with water, put* hjfeljerto

D

Leum and c

The deterrent effest of both seem soon to pass
away, while the Onion itself is too often injured.
Anyone who can suggest a practical remedy
founded on experience would confer a great
benefit on Onion growers. Is there any plant
obnoxious to flies which could be grown in the
neighbourhood of the bed ?—H. H.

Early Sunrise Pea.—A week or two
since, one of your correspondents remarked
he found Day’s Early Sunrise Pea to be a
failure with him. Allow me to say it has proved
just the contrary with me. After trials of
various kinds, I prefer it to any other ordinary
garden Pea (I am not alluding to the forcing
expensive kinds). Seed sown the same day as
Sangster’s No. 1, and another first early (which
I forget), came in much quicker, and turned out
infinitely better for the table. I also think its
flavour is better than any round Pea. It is
always appreciated at the dinner table.—
IOLANTHE.

11775.—Fly in Celery.— The whitish grub working
between the outer coating of the leaves is a troublesome
peat. When the leaves are wet dust them with aoot. It
ahould be done twice a week. It will not kill the grubB
already in the leaves, but it prevents any more from
attacking them.—J. D. E.

Leather-coated gTubs. —For some time
past scarcely a number of Gardening has
appeared in which one or more suggestions have
not been made for circumventing these grubs,
which have caused such havoc this year ; but
from none of these (as I think) can anything
more than a present and very partial
success be looked for. I do not despise pre¬
sent success, however small the amount of it
may be, and would not, therefore, advocate the
sparing of a single grub that can be laid hold of;
but, for all that, I think our chief care should
be devoted to the future. My belief is that if
every reader of Gardening would make it a
point of duty this autumn to take the earliest
opportunity of destroying every Daddy-long¬
legs he comes across we shall have a very
different state of things next year from what we
have had this.—B.

Slugs and snails.— “ Amateur,” page 219,
objects to large flowerbeds, because they render
it difficult to get at slugs and snails. A very
valid objection, but one easily got over. This
garden has been so completely neglected that all
sorts of marauders have multiplied, unmolested,
the crannies in the old walls giving them
plenty of shelter. A guerilla warfare is of
little use against slugs, snails, and woodlice.
A regular campaign and war of extermination
must be instituted. As a first measure
eucourage the frogs and toads, and do not allow
them to be frightened out of the garden. In
my last garden I did not lose a dozen Straw¬
berries in a season, but there were at least six
toads or frogs to a row. Snails lay their eggs
in the earth a little below the surface ; the
ovary is pushed into the ground with the eggs
attached, which drop off when ripe and remain
underground until spring—two years is usually
the utmost term of the life of a snail. If the
ground is frequently stirred during winter,
just an inch or so deep, the small birds -will
quickly find the eggs ; if they find one they will
scratch up the others. One of the worst effects
of the modern small villa, with its scrap of
ground, taking the plaee of the old suburban
box with its half acre of garden, is the banish¬
ment of many small birds which frequented the
old gardens. This garden is so swarmed with
blackbirds, thrushes, and starlings that the
slugs and snails disappear at a rapid rate, and
so do the Cherries, Strawberries, Raspberries,
and wall fruits. Robins, however, are harm¬
less, and devour great quantities of insects in
all stages. It is easy to make friends with
them, and pleasant to see the little fellows
waiting quietly for their supper a few yards off
when any ground is being disturbed. One of
the best traps for slugs and Bnails is 8-inch
flower-pots, bottom up, raised a little from the
ground at one side, and with a few Potato

Sarings or fresh Lettuce leaves in it. Small
ower-pots are useless, as the heat of the sun
gets through them too much. A large pot
placed close to any plant being eaten will
usually be found to contain the culprit in the
morning. Where slugs and snails come through
from a neighbouring field or garden, a ridge of
salt 1 inch wide and * inch high will repel the
invaders with great slaughter.—J. D.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(miscellaneous.) -5

11715.— Greenfly on Rose trees.— It is
curious that in some localities such as this it is
the Roses that are well fed and in good health
that are most subject to attacks of greenfly.

Roses that are weakly and out of sorts do not
seem to be considered worth notice by this pest.

Some who have studied the matter say that un¬
healthiness in the Rose is more likely to be the
effect than the cause of greenfly, and really it
is difficult to see how greenfly should prefer
unhealthy trees and trimmed Hawthorn hedges,
where there is so much juicy foliage more suitable *1
totheirdelicate, watery-looking bodies. Perhaps
it is a judgment on those who do not pay suffi¬
cient attention to “ picturesque ” gardening. ^
Here, at least, they attack all sorts of healthy
plants, neglecting the sickly, which have pro-
bably come through their hands at an earlier
part of the season. The proper cure is picking
and syringing in good time.—P. R.

11743.—Maggots in Onions.—I have tried for
several years with entire success 1 lb. of saltpetre disBolved
in hot water, applied in four watering cans of cold water
through the rose.—W. P.

11792.—Blight on Apple trees.— Dissolve 2 oz. or
3 oz. of alum in a gallon of hot water, and when cold
syringe the affected parts with it. If successful, report
result to the readers in these pages. Avoid paraffin.—

A. H. F.

11774.— Moles in gardens.— Level all hills, tread in
the runs. Early next morning take a spade and go quickly
and watch for the upheaving of the ground, have the spade
ready, and as the mole is w-orking, drivo in the spade and
throw out the mole. This is as my father used to kill them
fifty years ago.— Horton Bucks.

Jno. Page.— Try Mr. Dean, Bedfont, Hounslow, Middle¬
sex.- Adelaide.— No leaf received.- E. S. P.— Messrs.

Veitch and Sons, Royal Exotic Nursery, King’s Road.

Chelsea.- A. H. White.— At any good hardy plant

nursery. Many of the nurserymen who advertise in our

columns would supply you.- E. H. C .—The fungi sent

are not truffles, but a semi-subterranean fungus allied to
puff balls and named Scleroderma vulgare. Yours belong
to the small, smooth, and somewhat rare variety—the
Tuber solidum of Withering. The fungus is not edible.
- J. IV. It .—Your Strawberries reached us as pulp.

Names of plants.—./ Hogg.— Platyloma rotundifolia.

- R. W. Green.—1, Lysimachia ciliata *, 2, Agrostcnuna

coronaria ; 3, Centranthus ruber.- H. P. M .—Wc cannot

name the Rose from one flower only.- W. F.— Phila¬
delphia coronarius.- South Devon.— Smilax aspera ;

Habrothamnus corvmbosus (red flowers).- A. D. P .—All

varieties of Carnations, none of which are of sufficient merit

to name.-F. It. (West Kirby).—A very fine Carnation,

quite worthy of a name and perpetuating.- G . P. —1,

Anemone syivestris; 2, Appears to be A. rivularis. Is it a

characteristic specimen?- No name. —1, Aspidium angu-

lare ; 2, Specimen too much withered; 8, Scolopendrium

vulgare crispum ; 4, Oxalis acetosella var.- D. K .—

Francoaramosa.- A. Hatcher.—I, Send when in flow er ; 2.

Helianthus cucumerifolius; 8, Rhodochiton volubilis ; 4,
Cupressus macrocarpa.— Mentha. —Appears to be Lamium

purpureum aureum.- E. M. F. —Linaria stricta.- F.

Douglas.— Hypericum Androsffimum, Tutsan.- P. D. D.

—A poor specimen of Lilium Martagon album.- C. H. B.

—Desfontainea spinosa.

V |

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.—AM communications

for insertion should be clearly and concisely icritten on erne
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name arid
address of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the nuinber and title of the otter?/
answered. When more than one ot lery is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and corn-
munioations the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only ,
can be named at one time, and this only when pood
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name varieties
of florist* jUncers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas,
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist who I
has the means of comparison at hand. Any communiccL- i
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to name should always '
accompany the parcel.

11817.—Strawberries not colouring.—My Straw - ,

berry bed this year is a new one, and, through waiting for
them to colour, I have lost the whole of my Strawberri_ ,
They ripened perfectly, but did not colour in the least, n.nd
wero very woolly. Can anyone tell me the reason, and if
there arc white Strawberries?— Adelaide.

11819.—Scaring birds off corn.—What means can
I use to frighten away birds which are entirely conBiiminjr
a small patch of Wheat ? Coloured ribbons and dunlin i
with masks placed in the Wheat seem of no avail.—A. iv.

11819.—Red Spider in vinery.—Having mistaken
red spider for mildew I have been keeping my house drv
and well ventilated until almost every leaf is infested with
this pest. Will any amount of syringing and damping
down restore the foliage to a healthy state, or what iw t he
Best treatment ? Ihaveialkood crop of fruit, which dots
not vet appear to have suffered in consequence.—I ono-

UwVERSITt OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

-T « * ^ W* »

August 9, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

11820.—Standard Mignonette.—I shall bo glad to
know what to do with Standard Mignonotte—how to keep
it from year to year.—O ld Subscriber.

11S21.— Thrips on Fuchsias.—I have in my green¬
house a few Fuchsias, two of which arc very subject to
thrips. Would anyone kindly let me know wh&t I can do
to get clear of this pest ?—W. Flemino, Greenock.

11822.— Moving- new gfrafted trees.— Last March
(1884) I grafted some Apple and Plum stock. Is now the
time to remove them, or should I wait till October or even
later ? I am leaving the house and would like to do so
now, but must be guided by the proper time.— R. Palmer.

11823.—Rhus toxicodendron.— Will anyone kindly
tell me the habits of the plant used in homccopathy under
the name of Khus toxicodendron ? What is its native land,
how are its properties extracted, and has it any other
name ’—Amateur Homoopathist.

11824. — Treatment of lawn.— Will someone inform
me if mowing a new lawn once a week and rolling it with
a heavy roller is the best courso to be taken for its
apitearance, or what is the best course to be adopted for
the quick growth of Gross and its fineness ?—W.

11S25.— Carnations and Picotees.— What proceed¬
ings should be taken with the old plants of the above, after
the piping and layers have been taken ? Would it be wise
to winter them in the open ground and repot in the
spring? They are of the best show varieties.— Alfred.

lisas. —Jasmines not blooming.—I have several
plantsof Jasminum officinale and the pink-throated Jasmine
which does not flower. They havo been planted about
four years, are most luxuriant in growth, growing from
8 to 10 feet in height. The soil is sandy loam, 4
to 6 feet in depth, and is well manured. The aspect is
south and south-west. Can any reader say why such do not
flower?—T oosb.

11827.— Propagating Passion Flower.— I have a
splendid blue Passion Flower which has flowered profusely
for the last six weeks. Would someone tell me how to take
a cutting, or in what other way, such as layering, I shall
succeed in getting a young plant for another wall I wish to
cover ? Also I want a young nlant from a Virginia Creeper.
How can I do this ? Should they be kept in the house
or out of doors, also with regard to watering ’—Passion
Flower.

11328.— Plants for trellis-work.—I have just had
the side wall of my greenhouse covered with trellis-work ;
height from stage 7 feet, length 27 feet. Can any readers
inform me what are the best plants to grow thereon, so as
to make a pretty show in the coming autumn and winter?
—J. B.

ll 829.— Cultivating- Petunias.—I have some fine
young double Petunia plants. Please tell me how to
cultivate them well, as they are not flourishing.—A. B.

11830.— Heat for stove plants.— At what heat
should a house which contains Allamandas, Dipladenios,
Stephanotis, Dracaenas, Crotons, Gardenias. Eucharis
amazonica, and a few other things, but no Orchids, be
usually kept, and what is the greatest heat which would
be necessary at any time ?—S. E. N.

11 S31.— Destroying: woodlice.— Will someone in¬
form me the most ready way of destroying woodlice in a
greenhouse, where they can be seen at night after dark
with the aid of a light by hundreds and thousands, creep¬
ing all over the plants and feeding from those they like
best ?—Young Gardener.

11832.— Rose cuttings.— How long will cuttings of
Hoses, struck this autumn, take to grow into good flower¬
ing plants? Our soil is a stiff yellow clay in a mild part of
Devonshire.—A Novice.

11833.— Dressing- for Roses.— What is meant by “a
?nod dressing” of guano for outdoor Roses, and how
aften should it be given ? I mixed a dessert spoonful of
pano with five times the quantity of soil and put on the
iTomd round a Charlos Lefebvre Rose, which aied in two
dsr*. Could this have killed it ?-M. E. H.

11834.— Lxias.—I have a small bed in the open border.
They are planted about 0 inches down ; they were planted
hat autumn, and covered with litter in the winter. As
they have done flowering, should I lift them, or leave them
where they are? Will they increase and flower next
summer? Would Sparoxis Tritonias and Babianas do
equally well in the open air and same soil?—N orth
Berwick.

11S35. -Carnation dying' off.— I have a bed of
Carnations and Picotees. Till lately they have grown
well, have a fair amount of Grass, and all showing
quantities of bloom. Within the last fortnight something
has come over them, and they are dyinjj daily. It is not,

! ar as I see, wire worm, but something above ground,
pith, or oentre of the Grass, is brown and rotten-looking,
anyone tell mo what it is, or what I can do to stop it ?
soil is sandy loam.— Mrs. L.

.636.— Azaleas and Camellia?.— I am In difficulties
i regard to both the above, although 1 have grown them
t well the last few years. My Azaleas, which I have rc-
since blooming, have lost nearly all their leaves, and
rest have gono quite brown. Two of the plants have
. Will any reader kindly advise me what to do to them?
y have been outside for the last month. My Camellias
3 a very queer kind of blight or bug on them which
r-s tho'leaves turn quite limp and fall off; the insect on
leaf (which is invariably down the centre) is light
m. has a hard skin, seems to stick fast to the loaf, and
only be removed by slight pressure. What can I do to
rov these as 1 fear they win kill my plants ? I have rc-
ea them with a piece of wood, but others seem to tike
r place in a day or two. I may add that I have a vino
ie same house, but it is not affected.— Achtung.

aS 37 .— Tomato flowers falling off—I have two
' mato plants growing in a frame, they are planted in a
n, the bottom of which has been removed so that the
arth rests upon a bed of manure two feet in depth, into
nich the roots of the Tomato plants havo grown. The
pixata have grown wonderfully and bear a great number
cJ flowers, but just as these flowers open they fall off, the
*t«n turns a little yellow, about half an inch below the
flower, and in a day or two coinpaapart os clean although
it *ere cut with a knife. CanJany reader toll me, tic cause
ttd remedy!?*-W.' CvW. by QIC

11838.—Seedling- Cyclamens.—I have a quantity of
Cyclamens ; the seed was sown in a vinery last February ;
1 expect them to flower iu winter, and should bo very glad
to know thobest way of treating them during the summor,
whether they should be kept in the greenhouse altogether,
and be kept growing, or should they be left to die down ?
-M. T. O.

11839.— Belladonna Lily. — I bought half-a-dozen
bulbs of this in the autumn and planted them in good, rich
loam, about 8 inches below the surface. They have sent
up two small leaves. What Bhould I do ? They are grow¬
ing beside Amaryllis longifolia alba, and pallida, both of
which are growing strongly.— North Berwick.

11840.— Planting a garden with flowers.—I shall
feel most thankful if any reader of Gardening will kindly
help me by hints to make our garden (comparatively a
small one) a delight and pleasure all the year round, in th6
simplest way possible. What seeds should now be sown,
and what kinds later on ? What hardy bulbs will it be
best to plant? I am not able to undertake great things
myself, neither do I wish to spend much, but I want a

K rden full of beautiful hardy flowers, although they may
common ones. I read Gardening regularly, but have
not yet met with exactly the instruction I feel I want, but
I see from it that many do cultivate the kind of garden of
which every inch almost may be a little world of interest
to all. Especially we like flowers that can travel well by
(lost.—B. W. E.

11S41.—stove for greenhouse.— Having a green¬
house 8 feet square attached to main building, and no means
of heating other than a paraffin lamp, which I fancied lost
winter killed many of my plants, I shall be pleased if
someone can afford me information of tho cheapest and
best apparatus for heating the greenhouse. As I am leav¬
ing next summor I wish to go to as little expense as possible,
and want an apparatus that requires no fixing. I fancy I
have heard of a charcoal stove ; coke, I believe, is injurious
to plant life.—D. V. C.

11842.— Transplanting Carnations.— I have a bed
of Carnations just coming into flower, which I wish to re¬
arrange. Which is the best time to lift the plants?—
Sicnark.

11843.— Good Roses.— Will some reader kindly give
mo a list of Roses having the following qualities:—1st,
perfume; 2nd, free flowering habit; 3rd, form ; 4th,
good colour ? The list need not exceed one dozen.—
Rosariax.

11844.— Moving Gooseberry trees.—How- soon
may young Gooseberry trees be transplanted after bearing,
without injuring them?—A. R. T.

11S45.—Plants for porch —Would someone kindly
give me advice and general directions for keeping up a con¬
stant supply of plants and flowers in a small porch about 0 feet
square? It is substantially built, being all enclosed,
having the outer door at one end, and opposite to it a glass
door leading into the house. It is lighted by two small
windows, one on each side. The only glass in our garden
consists of three frames, the greater part of which is taken
up in the winter by vegetables, cuttings, &c.— A Novice.

11846.—Croquet lawn.— Could any reader tell me
how to get our croquet lawn into good order for tennis?
It is some years since it has been used, and hag got very
weedy and uneven. It is in rather a low situation, and is
gomewhat damp.—M. Maxwell.

11847.—Wild Violets not flowering.— About two
years ago I got some Violet roots from a meadow and
planted them in my garden in a shady corner, but they
have never flowered since l got them (they were in full
bloom at the time). They grow into large tufts of
foliage, hut instead of flowering they produce what appear
to me to be seed pods, but I cannot understand the plants
having seed pods without flowering. What must I do
with them to make them bloom ?— Sicnarf.

11848.—Plants for cool greenhouse.—I have
erected a small greenhouse, which is so overshaded with
trees that the sun never gets directly to it. I wish to
avoid using any heat whatever, and should bo glad to know
if there are any hardy small shrubs which would grow in
pots there under the conditions. I have no hope of suc¬
cess with flowers, but possibly evergreens of some kind
might do, and I shall feel much obliged for any informa¬
tion or suggestions that any of your correspondents can
furnish me with.—A n Old Subscriber.

POULTRY.

Black Fowls. —“ C. C.”—The only reason
we can give for their being better layers, gene¬
rallyspeaking, than any other colour amongcross-
bred birds, is that they probably have either
the Spanish or Black Hamburg blood in their
veins. You will always find in country parts,
where breed is not much studied, that the hen-
wife will keep all black pullets, especially if
they possess large combs, as being superior
layers, while the red birds, with yellow legs
(proving the Malay cross) are esteemed for the
table. If farmers and others interested in
poultry as a food supply would only pay a little
more attention to the breed, instead of con¬
tinually using as stock birds those whose
ancestors havo probably been in the district
for a century, they would obtain far better
results. Nothing is simpler than to pur¬
chase a few young cocks, of a good breed,
such as Houdans, Minorcas, and Brahmas,
and to run them with the hens they already
possess, no matter of what kind they may be.
We have no hesitation in saying that in two
years the produce from a certain Humber of hens
will be half as much again as regards eggs, and
for table use the chicken will be larger, nardier,

and come to maturity earlier. We once saw in
a farmyard near Preston a flock of about two
hundred fowls. Most of them were a cross
between Houdans and dark Brahmas, but there
were also half-bred Andalusians and Hamburgs,
and a finer or handsomer lot of fowls we never
saw. Their owner assured us they repaid him
well for the care and trouble bestowed upon
them. His plan was that which \fre recommend,
viz., to purchase every year, about January, a
few pure-bred cocks of one or two well-known
laying sorts, with a view also for table use. His
selection of Houdans and Andalusians could not
be bettered. These he would run with the flock
of cross-bred birds (not mongrels), and with
capital results. As you seem bent on having
black fowls, you should procure for your hens
two good Minorca cockerels and one black
Cochin.— Andalusian.

Poultry run. —“P. T. P.”—If possible the
run should face south, but do not neglect to
provide a shelter from fierce sun, which is very
injurious to fowls. The shelter will also prove
acceptable in wet weather. It is a good plan
to have the run a few inches above the surround¬
ing ground, which is easily done by placing
9-inch boards round, and filling up with some
loose material. A very good material for runs
consists of the refuse from an engine fire, such
as is seen in heaps around a railway engine
depot. This admits of good drainage, which is
of great importance in a small run ; and if the
run be turned over occasionally with a fork it
keeps sweet for a long time. Be sure and remove
all green meat not consumed by the birds.
Nothing is so bad as decaying vegetable matter
in a run. You might with advantage white- •
wash the brick wall forming the back of the
run. — Andalusian.

Fowls with sores on legs.— “C. 0. M.”
—Your birds must be in a dreadfully unhealthy
state, and we should advise you to get rid of
them, and get a fresh stock. Now is a good
time to buy early hatched birds of this year.
Before, however, introducing any fresh birds,
let the houses and runs have a good cleaning
and disinfecting. Well limewash the former,
with all nest-boxes and fittings. Mix a little
carbolic acid with the whitewash, and work it
well into the creviceB. Let the run be cither
turned up, or if a small one remove the old
earth or gravel and supply fresh. It is a good
plan to sprinkle carbolic acid and water over
the run occasionally. We see no remedy for
the sores except frequent fomenting in warm
water, and then applying sulphur ointment.—
Andalusian.

AQUARIA.

Plants for aquarium. — “ Sydney. ” —
Vallisneria spiralis is a grass-like plant, rooting
and requiring to root firmly at the bottom.
This is one of the most useful plants for the
aquarium. The Soldier plant is Stratiotis
aloides—in appearance very similar to the
Pandanus and Screwpines seen in many
cottage windows in the country. As regards
the tadpoles, the gold fish are as likely to havo
eaten them as the newt is. The slime on the
fish is very likely from the hardness of the
water, but a more merciful way of treatment
would be to put the fish into a bucket under a
tap, which should run very slowly, and then
sprinkle clean, well-washed drift sand over
them every half hour or so for a day. The
bucket should be in a shady place. The great
point in the management of an aquarium is the
“ balance of power.” There must not be too
many fish, &c., or too many weeds. I speak
from thirty years’ experience. The water should
not be changed of tener than once in twelve months,
and then not unless absolutely necessary. Take
a few stones, well washed, about the size of
one’s fist, put them in the bottom, then
graduate the size of stones till they arc 2 to
3 inches deep, being quite small on the top—I
do not advocate sea shingle or sand—fill the
glass with water, then plant the weeds ; leave
it two/>r three days before putting in the fish.
If this is done, and not too many fish, &c., put
in, all will go right. As regards feeding, the
fish mentioned will do well on bread crumbs,
pressed hard. D6 not put in more than the fish
will jjri » auy excels will foul the waster rapidly.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

[Auocbt 9, 1884

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Gather hone; from your flowers.

NEIGHBOUR’S

CELEBRATED

BEE-HIVES.

For taking Honey without the
destruction of the Bees.
Philadelphia Exhibition, 1876.

Part* Exhibition, 1878.
Three Silver Medals and seve¬
ral others awarded to
GEO. NEIGHBOUR & SONS
for their improved
Cottage Boe-hive,

As originally introduced by
them, working 3 Bell Glasses
or Tray of Sectional Supers, is
neatly and strongly made @f
Straw. It has Three Windows
in the Lower Hive.

This Hive will be found to
possess many practical advan¬
tages, and is more easy of
management than any other
that has been introduced
Price, complete .. £1 15 0

Stand for ditto .. 0 1U 6

COLOURED PLATES * FLOWERS

For Screens and Scrap-books

From Drawings by the best flower painters, finely reproduced in colour. Per dozen, 2s. 6d.;
per twenty-five, 5s. ; per fifty, 9s. ; per hundred, 15s., post-free. P.0.0, to T. Spanswick.

Specimen Plate post-free, 3d.

1. Abelia floribunda.

2. Abutilon vitifoliuin.

3. Acantholimon venustum.

4. Achillea rupestris.

5. yEthionema pulchcllum and Anemone vernalis.

6. Amaryllis, Mrs. Garfield.

93. Iris orientals.

94. do. reticulata.

95. do. group of Spanish.

96. do. stylosa.

97. Ismene Andreaua. .

98. Ixiolirion Pallasi.

99. Jasminum pubescens.

100. Kalmia latifolia.

101. Kuipbotia carnosa.

102. L*elia anceps. vars of (Dawsoni, Williamsiana, Perci-
valiana, roBea. Barkeri, Hilli, and Vtitchi).

103. Lselia autumnalis venusta.

104. do. harpophylla

105. Lejptospermum lanigerum

106. Lilium Humbnldtii and var.

107. do. LeichtliniL

108. do. martagon (album and dalmaticum).

109. do. pardaliuum and its vars.

110. do. pomponium verum.

111. do. speciosum melpomene

112. do. rubcsceus and Washingtonianum.

113. Lisianthus glaucifolius

114. Lycaste Skinneri and white var.

115. Lychnis Lagascie and Potentilla nitida.

116. Magnolia narviflora.

117. do. 8oulangeana nigra.

118. Mascarenhasia Curuowiana.

119. Meconopsis Wallichiana.

120. Megasea purpurascens.

121. Mesosninidium vulcanicum.

122. Modiola geranioides.

123. Mutisia dtcurrens.

124. Nepenthes Mastersiana, Chelsoni, and Morganise.

125. do. Veitchi, bicalcarata. and albo-marginata.

126. Nerines pulchella, Plantii, pudioa, humilis, filifolia, and
corusca.

127. North American wild flowers, a group of (Arum tri
phyllum. Phlox divaricata, Thalictrum anemonoides,
Trillium grandiflorum, Uvalaria sesaili flora).

128. Nymphtea gigantea and flava.

129. do. tuDerosa,

130. do. zanzibarenBis.

131. Ochna multiflora.

132. Odontoglos8um citrosmum album and roseum.

13 . do. crispum.

134. do. excellenB and PescatoreL

135. do. hebraicum.

136. do. Insleyayi Bplendens.

137. Oncidium cucullatum giganteum.

138. do. raacranthum.

139. Opuntia Rafinesquei.

140. Orchis foliosa, vars. of.

141. Papaveralninum and Anthemis Alzoon.

142. Pavonia Wiotii.

143. Pentstemon humilis and Eritrichium nanum.

144. Pernettya mucronata.

145. Pescatorea Klabochorum.

146. Phala*nopslB intermedia Portei.

147. do. Sanderiana.

148. do. Stuartiana nobilis and Schilleriana.

149. Philesia buxifolia.

150. Pinguicula caudata.

151. Puschkinia scilloides.

152. Pyrus Hosti.

153. Ranunculus anemonoides.

154. Rheum nobile.

155. Rhododendron Aucklandi.

156. Rose Marie Baumann.

157. do. Marshal Niel.

158. do. Catherine Mermet.

159. Rubus delici osus.

160. Salvia Bethelli, leucantha, splendeus, Bruanti, ias&n-
chon. and cacalisefolia.

161. Salvia Pitcheri.

162. Schizostylis coocinea.

163. 8edum sempervivoides.

164. Sisyrinchium grandiflorum and var.

166. Sobralia xantholeuca.

166. Sophronitis grandiflora rosea.

167. Sparaxis pulcherrima.

168. Spirsea Douglasii.

169. Stenorhynchus speciosum.

170. Tecophyliea cyanocrocus.

171. Telopea speciosissima.

172. Tropioolum Hermine Grashoff.

173. Utnculariamontana.

174. Vanda coerulea.

175. do. Hookeriana.

176. do. insigniB and var. Schroederiana.

177. do. Inmellata Boxalli.

178. do. Sanderiana.

179. do. tricolor Patersonii.

180. Vesicaria gneca.

181. Viola pedata bicolor.

182. Zenobia speciosa pulvenilenta.

July 1, 1884. -

Publishing Office : 37, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.O.

From which the Combs can be removed at side opening
whilst supers are on. This Hive affords remarkable facility
for manipulation, because the frames can also be taken out
from top as with other Frame Hives, and at the same time
affords great opportunity for full inspection, having glass on
three sides, closed with shutters.

"THE APIARY," by Alfred Neighbour, 5s., postage
5d. Catalogue of improved Hives and Appliances, with
drawings and prices, Two Stamps.

GEO. NEIGHBOUR & SONS, 127, High Holborn, W.C.,
_and 149, Regent Street, W.__

Certain Sudden DEATH

to all Grubs, Woolly Apbls, Green and Black
Fly, Lice, Red Spider, Tbrip, Mealy Bug,
Caterpillars, Ants, Worms, &c.

INSECTICIDE ( IN° WATEr)

For destroying ALL INSECTS & PARASITES

that infest Trees and Plants, whether at the Roots or on the
Foliage. It cures Mildew and Blight on Fruit or h ohage, and
a weak solution Kills all Vegetable Grubs, Turnip Fly,Ac.
Clears grapes from Mildew, or Mealy Bug without affecting
the bloom. Thickened with a little clay, makes a good winter
dressing. Destroys Lice and Fleas on animals and birds.
Sold by Seedsmen and Chemists, Is. 6d., 2s. 6d., and 4s. 6d. a
Bottle. Per post, 3d. extra. Per gallon 12s. 6d., or less in
larger quantities.

A Treatise on FIR TREE OIL, as an Insecti¬
cide, its application to plants and Animals,
sent Post Free on Receipt of address, by tbe
Manufacturer,

E. GRIFFITHS HUGHES, Manchester.

Wholesale :-HOOPER & CO.; CORRY. SOPER, FOWLER,
and CO.; O. E. OSMAN & CO.; and from all the London
Seed Merchants and Wholesale Patent Medicine Houses.

New York ROLKER 4 SONS._

-Handsome pieces, lightest,
112 lb., 18s. 6a. ; 56 lb., 11s. 6<1. ;
r and SCULL, 90, Lower Thames

T7IRGIN cork.

v therefo re cheapen
28 lb., 6s. 6d.-WATS'

GARDEN REQUISITES.

POCOA NUT FIBRE REFUSE, is. 3d. per

\J bag; 10 bags for 12s.: 30 for 30s.; truck load, free on
rail, 80s.; Best Brown Fibrous Peat, 5s. per seek, 5 for 22s. 6d.;
Black Fibrous Peat, 4s. 6d. per sack, 5 for 20s.; Coarse Silver
Sand, 1 b. 6d. per bushel; Yellow Fibrous Loam, Leaf, and
Peat Mould, Is. per bush. Potting Compost, Is. 4d. per bush.:
5s. per sack. Manures of all kinds. Garden Sticks and
Labels. Tobacco Cloth, 8d. per lb.; Specialite Paper. 10<L per
lb.—Write for price list.—W. E. WARD & CO., Union
Chamber*. Wormwood Street. London. E.G.

T7IRGIN CORK FOR FERNERIES AND

V CONSERVATORIES —The cheapest and best house Id

—(-I l.O<;KVF.R An c.. lit High Bt.. Bloomsbury. W.
Price Sixpence each.

VEGETABLE LIFE and FLOWERLESS

V PI,ANTS, by N. Danvers; Illustrated Natural History,
written in language simple enough to be intelligible to every
child who can read; HUGHES'S PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY,
NUMEROUS DIAGRAMS; ENTIRELY REWRITTEN,
WITH MAP OF WORLD. 3a 6d.- Philip 4 SoK, Publishers,

i 52, Fleet 8t., K.O., and Liverpool.

Street, London. E.C.

SPECIALLY CHEAP GLASS— For prices and

^ sizes please refer to last (p. 255) or next week’s number.-

H. WAIXWRIGHT. 8 & 10. Alfred Street, Boar Lane, Leeds.

POULTRY WIRE NETTING, Galvanised

-L can be ot

_ be obtained at exceptionally low prices from

FRANCIS MORTON and CO. (Limited), 9, Victoria Chamber®
Victoria Stre et, We stminster Price Lists on application.

T EAN-TO GREENHOUSES.— 15 ft. by 10 ft;. .

U £10 17s.; 20 ft. by 10 ft., £12 15s - front 5 ft. high, b&clc
10 ft. 3 in. Price lists free.—A. P. JOHNSON, Horticultvura.1

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

AUGUST 16 1884.

No. 284.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

MILLA BIFLORA.

\Ye herewith give an illustration of a bulbous
plant that, both recently and for some years

fist, has been the subject 6f much comment,
t shows the plant life-size, but, though correct
in form, it conveys but little idea of the exqui¬
site beauty of the snow-white
wax-like flowers. The bulb, or
rather corm, is somewhat small,
and membraneous coated. The
leaves are round, Rush-like, and
very rough. The flower-stems
are smooth, from 9 inches to 12
inches in height, and usually bear
but one flower, but when grown
strongly they sometimes produce
two and three flowers, and in a
wild state they do not unfre-
auently bear as many as five
flowers. The specimen from
which our drawing was made
bore three flowers, but only one
was expanded when the sketch
was taken. It was sent to us by
Messrs. Horsman, of Colchester,
who have imported this plant in
large quantities. There is, there¬
fore, little likelihood of this beau¬
tiful plant ever again becoming
such a rarity as it has been. It
has generally been considered a
difficult plant to manage, but
Mr. Horsman assures us that it
thrives perfectly well in the open
border in light rich soil. The
bulbs should be planted in March
or April in some sunny spot, and
if thoroughly ripened, they will
soon develop foliage and flowers.

After blooming tne great point
is to get the bulbs thoroughly
matured before lifting them in
August or September—that is,
after the foliage has decayed. No
doubt many would like to culti¬
vate it in pots or in frames,
which, after all, is the most satis¬
factory plan, as in that case the
plants are better under one’s eye.
it inhabits the western coast of
America, from South Arizona and
Xew Mexico to Central Mexico.

HARDY PLANTS.

“A. N.” may be taken as a fair
specimen of those who still be¬
lieve in bedding out, and the
arrangements ho describes re¬
present the kind of thing still to
be found in a few small gardens,
and which a few years ago was
the rule in all. A pretty lawn is
1 cut up on the side nearest the
l louse with a number of geo-
| metric beds filled with bedding
I plants arranged so as to show
■rings, stripes, and patterns of flat
lolour. Because this kind of
lung pleases him “A. N.”

Iincies it must be perfection. It
la a most odd thing, and a good
-stance of the perversity of
iman nature, that people should
- ; mire in their flower gardens
Tangements which would power-
lily excite their risible faculties
i seen in a less familiar form. What would
‘ A. N. ” thiuk of a florist who exposed for sale in
^ window bouquets arranged with a rigiclborder
i leaves, then a line of blue Cornflowers, next a
he of yellow or white Daisies, and then a flat
/«nch of trusses of scarlet Geranium in the
centre? If “A. N.” did not think the florist
had mistaken his vocation^L^m quite sure the
ladies of his family wouldf All- that k hotel who
advocate the abolition of lWl3lragAir^n®n!iA^;8

are striving to do is to get people to open their
eyes and minds to the beauty of the plants
themselves instead of trying to work out childish
schemes of decoration in flat colour. “A. N.”
says he has tried hardy plants and did not like
them. I should like very much to know what
, plants he used, and how he cultivated them.
A good border of hardy flowers at its beat is
I generally such a revelation of unwonted beauty,

Flower-stem and Bulb of Milla biflora. Flowers white.

| both of form and colour, that the most ardent
admirers of bedding are struck dumb by it, and
acknowledge its immeasurable superiority at
once. But such borders arc not to be seen in
the London parks, nor yet in small gardens,
although perfectly attainable there.

If “ A. N.” will just turf over his geometric
beds and make one large bed of the same area
at the furthest edge of the lawn, and, say, some
30 feet from front to back, he will be able

to havo such a display of colour as will
astonish him, and completely convince all
who see it that that is attainable in other
ways than by bedding out, with the addi¬
tional advantage that it will be in full
beauty from the first of April until tho first of
November in ordinary seasons, a period of seven
months instead of only four months, as with
spring and summer bedding. I will further
undertake that, if properly plan¬
ted, there will be no necessary un¬
sightliness at any period. I am
afraid “A. N.” is of those who
make a thoughtless rush at a
thing, and because it docs not
immediately turn out a success
imagine that failure is part of its
nature. Bedding has one advan¬
tage, it requires no thought,
cither as to arrangement or culti¬
vation ; it is a mere piece of
routine easily mastered, after
which it is only a mechanical
repetition of the same operations.
Just what an intellectual pastime
like gardening should never be.
Hardy plants are things which
have to be thought over and
studied. Many of those which
produce the finest and most last¬
ing displays of colour do not show
what they are capable of unless
properly planted in the first
instance, and allowed to grow
and spread for some years.
Moving always puts them out of
bloom for a year or two, so that
arrangements should be made
for widening and altering the
outline of beds and borders to
make room for them as they
spread. Anyone w T ho has merely
ordered a collection of hardy
plants from a nursery and planted
them in shrubbery borders, or
who has tried decorating pin¬
cushion beds, cut out on a lawn,
with a perennial or two and a few
hardy annuals, is wholly in¬
capable of giving any opinion on
the merits of hardy flowers for
garden decoration, and cannot
be said to have seen hardy plants
at all. No one who knows any¬
thing of them would ever attempt
to grow them in that way, or
expect them to be decorative
when so placed. Placing them
in that fashion will quite account
for “A. N.’s” emphatic state¬
ment that the bright masses of
colour which distinguish bedding
cannot be got with hardy plants.
These bright masses of colour
appeal only to a taste the very
reverse of artistic, for no artist
can tolerate them. But, taking
“A. N.” on his own ground, I
may say that if he had grown
hardy plants to any extent he
would not have made such a state¬
ment. I grant him at once that
you cannot with hardy plants
have the same plants blooming
continuously for three months,
but if you wish to have a blaze of
tho same colour at or about the
same spot in a large border you
can have it in as great brilliancy,
and with most colours, for more
than double the length of time. Take scarlet
for instance. You can have clumps of Poppy
Anemones flowering throughout a mild winter,
and in March the double kinds will come
in, and, with stcllata and fulgens, last till
June. You can have clumps of scarlet
Tulips, beginning >ith th<p Van Thols and
ending in June with the florists’ kinds.
Oriental Poppies will begin to_blooin in April,

and prod une Asm 1 1 rr rlet

27-2 GARDENING ILLUSTRATED [August 16, 1884.

bowls 9 inches across and lasting for six weeks.
In May scarlet biennial Stocks will be in full
glory, double scarlet Geum blooms continuously;
scarlet biennial Poppies make fine masses in
June, Gladioli (early and late) bloom from early
June until September, while, in the three
months during which the bedders are at their
best, hardy plants and those which require no
protection can match them with Lilies, Carna¬
tions, Pentstemons, Tigridias, Dahlias, and
hardy and half-hardy annuals. Everything
that can be got with bedding plants can be
equally well got with hardy plants, if we omit
the tasteless part of bedding, the formal and
sharply-defined beds, the rows and patterns, the
flat arrangement, and the pinching and clipping.
Once turn your back upon these and similar
artificialities and all the neatness and order
which the most fastidious could desire is attain¬
able with hardy plants, and with the enormous
advantage that infinite variety is substituted
for sameness, ever varying masses of colour for
flat patches, and the beautiful forms of nature
for the inventions of an untrained fancy.

It is evident that those who prefer bedding
to hardy plants take their ideas of the latter
from the mixed border. The old mixed border
was not a decorative feature. The plants in it
were grown each for its own individual beauty ;
there was no thought of arranging them for
combined effect. Bedding was the first step
in a new direction, and all that is wanted
now is that the second step shall be taken—
namely, that the plants used for decorating
a garden shall be arranged with the same
regard for colour harmony that is paid in
bedding, but with all the plants growing in
their natural manner, and arranged so as to
show their beauty of form and habit, as well as
the beauty of their flowers. Surely it must be
self-evident that that is not a different or a
parallel style of garden to bedding-out, but
something very much higher and far beyond it,
combining, as it does, all the plants which can
be grown in a garden, and using their natural
outlines only instead of artificial ones. A few
beds filled with bedding plants will be superior
as a garden decoration to beds and borders
filled with such hardy plants as one often sees
about London, badly arranged in the first
instance, overcrowded, and suffering from dirt
and neglect; but the comparison is all the other
way when the hardy flow r ers are properly
managed.

Bedding-out is peculiarly unsuited for the
gardens of small villas. It is all nonsense about
it setting off a house. If a house is built in a
tasteless and pretentious style, as if the
designer thought it could be made to look like
a mansion, bedding plants will only make bad
worse, and if it is a sensible, picturesque, and
homely place, bedding will be wholly out of
keeping with it.

My remarks about large beds seem to have
been misunderstood. There is no necessity for
advocating a change where it is already carried
out. Those who still recommend bedding as a
legitimate form of garden decoration are all
agreed that it is utterly unsuitable for the
decoration of small gardens. The only excuse
for its introduction there was in the fact that
while bedding-out was popular in large gardens,
no plants but bedding plants were available for
small ones. In my last rambles of inspection
amongst London suburban gardens, in the
summer of 1882, I noticed that not one in
twenty had a single bedding plant in it. In
some gardens the opposite extreme had been
reached ; not only had the geometric beds been
turfed over, but a large tree had been placed
where the principal bed was, and all the
flowers visible were a few of the com¬
monest hardy plants, in narrow borders, under
the fences. That is going rather too far. The
worst and most gaudy display of bedding is
better than no flowers at all; but there is no
necessity for either alternative. A small garden
can only be decorated in a satisfactory way if
treated in an informal manner, and that is best
done by using hardy plants and annuals. There
must, however, be intelligence and good taste
brought into play at every step. Bedding
arrangements, it must be borne in mind, are on
a par with tatooing and similar savage decora¬
tions. The great thing to aim at is to bring
out the beauty of the. tjants, not tcv hide that
by making them form flaLnui#sos/of <|alour.
In^'.small gard es i t fcijt V WiiBy and

shady, sheltered and exposed positions; all
these can be taken advantage of to plant suit¬
able things. Not many gardens so situated as
to be worth attempting any decorative effect in
are so small as not to allow of a bed of flowers
20 feet deep measuring in the length of the
plot; that depth is quite sufficient for a good
bed of flowers.

No doubt some of my statements seem to
savour of dogmatism, but that is not because
they cannot be supported by reason and argu¬
ment ; but because it is necessary, in a practical
paper like Gardening, that all instructions
given shall be as much to the point and in as
few words as possible.

In conclusion, I will just describe the arrange¬
ments being carried out for the decoration of a
part of this garden, which may fairly represent
the front plot of a small old-fashioned house.
At the back of the house is a small enclosed
plot, separated from the rest of the garden by a
brick wall and arch ; it is surrounded on three
sides by walls, and sheltered from the north
and the north-east winds by the house and its
appurtenances. Next the house is a terrace
7 feet wide, supported by a brick wall 4 feet
high, including parapet. The remainder of the
plot is about 60 feet square, divided into two
nearly equal portions by a straight walk. In
front of the terrace there are borders 5 feet
wide, the remaining space is Grass, with the
exception of a narrow border under the west
wall, which makes the two Grass plots equal.
On each Grass plot there are, first, nearest the
house, two round beds 4 feet across, then a
round bed 7 feet across, and then a crescent¬
shaped bed about 3 feet 6 inches wide by 8 feet
long. The flowers in these beds are all that
can be seen from the windows of the house,
except a peep at the borders through the arch
in the south wall. This very formal arrange¬
ment has hitherto been decorated with bedding,
wholly out of keeping with the style of the
house, which is 200 years old.

The difficulties to be taken into account
are:—1. The soil is a shallow' one on gravel
over chalk, and the beds have never been made,
but have only had some 9 inches of earth
thrown on them in form of a mound. 2.
There are old fruit trees on the walls the roots
of which have worked into the beds and made
a perfect mat on the top of the subsoil, from
which suckers keep rising the whole summer.
It is necessary, therefore, that there shall be no
permanent planting. The garden has been
utterly neglected for the last six years. Roses
originally trained on the walls have been over¬
grown and killed by various old stocks on which
they had been budded. The borders under the
terrace were one confused tangle of Evergreen
shrubs, Stocks, and dead Roses, Briar suckers,
Cydonia japonica, common Jasmine, Eccremo-
carpus Bcaber, Clematis Flammula, and Kerria
japonica ; while to mat all together was a pro¬
fuse growth of Lathyrus grandiflorus. The
ground was full of wood Violets, double wood
Anemones, and common Grape Hyacinths.
These borders being in the most sheltered place
in the garden, and in a position where protection
is easy, will be filled with Tea Roses, some of
the shoots being trained loosely to the terrace
wall, others bent down over the border. I
may mention here that this border is most for¬
tunately placed as regards soil. At the north
side it is the light tawny loam, which is over
the chalk everywhere almost. It dips rather
quickly to the south, and then rises with a
sharp bank. That bank marks the outcrop of
the beds between the London clay and the chalk
so familiar to Londoners at Blackheath and
Greenwich Park, but here only a few feet thick,
and consisting of red sand, gravel, and flints.
The top of the bank is pure London clay.

The sand on the bank does not affect
the soil of the garden, for the clay has
got washed down in the course of ages,
so that the soil merely graduates from stiff* clay
at the south to chalky loam at the north side.
There is little traffic on the roads, so that any
amount of road parings can be had, and plants
like Roses, which like fresh soil, can have it ad
libitum.

The edging of the borders in front of the
terrace will bo of mixed bulbs and rock plants,
and the borders themselves will be filled with
Ixias, Tritonias, Sparaxis, and Babianas, to
flower in spring ; Gladioli, permanently planted,
to flower in summer ; and hardy Amaryllis,

Watsonias, and Schizostylis coccinea, for
autumn. In two of the small round beds will
be planted hardy Fan Palms ; in the other two
—east, Noisette Roses, Aim£e Vibert; west,
Clematis Jackmanii. The large round beds
will have a permanent rockery edging 18 inches
wide, planted with Achillea Clavennie. A.
umbellata, Silene alpestris, S. maritima fl.-pl.,
spring perennial Phloxes, and Sedum spurium
splendens. In the centre will be a plant of
Chrysanthemum Elaine, surrounded by Gla-
diola and Phlox decussata. The crescent-
shaped beds will be filled w'ith Pansies and
climbing Tropmolums. The narrow west border
contains Hepaticas, Tulips, Primulas, Primroses,
Polyanthuses, Auriculas, Pansies, Columbines,
and Anemone japonica; while a Gloire de
Dijon Rose will trail over all.

Now a word or two to explain the decorative
advisability of these arrangements. The formal
beds are retained because there is no alternative
if there are to be any flowers, the further edge of
the lawn, having some trees in it, and the south
wall being covered with ivy ; the w’all itself
prevents a satisfactory border being made there.

It is necessary to retain the lawn, as the lawns
in front of the house are open to public view,
and that at the farthest side of the garden,
though very pleasant, being partly shaded by
large Oaks and old Apple trees, is damp and
slippery in wet weather, being on clay. The
Tropa?olums in the farthest beds will lie seen
against shadow, and dark Ivy and Cyprus
leaves, which will render their foliage and
bloom telling. The w'hite flowers of the Chry¬
santhemums will be most frequently seen
against the same background. The rockery
edging to the round beds w r ill take the
stiffness from them, and hide their ugly
outlines, while the Tropaeolums and Pansies,
partly trailing on the turf, will hide the
outlines of the crescents. The Fan Palms and
climbers in the small round beds will hide the
outlines of them, so that all ugly outlines w’ill
beabolished. The plants at the foot of the terrace
have the house itself for background. That is
covered with Ivy, Virginian Creepers, climbing
Roses, white Passion Flower, Japanese Honey¬
suckle, a scarlet-berried Thorn, common Jas¬
mine, and a Vine. The parapet of the terrace
w’ill be almost hidden by rock and wall plants.
The bricks and tiles of the buildings are covered
with Lichens, and form a neutral background.

Of course an old house fo'rmB a better back¬
ground for picturesque treatment than a new
one, but I have frequently seen a tasteless and
pretentious house so ornamented w’ith climbing
plants, and all its objectionable forms so dis¬
guised and hidden, that it assumed quite
another appearance from that originally in¬
tended.

There are only two points in “ P. R.’s **
letter which require notice. He claims popular
admiration as evidence in favour of bedding.
Now, popular admiration proves nothing in
matters intellectual; it may mean, as in thin
case it does, that the public taste requires edu¬
cating. Vox populi is in most instances not Vox
Dei, but Vox diaboli, and the great work of all
intellectual men in this world is not to follow
the popular tendencies, but to stand shoulder to
shoulder and fight them, a task in which, on the
whole, they generally succeed. Even though,
popular suffrage was of the slightest value in this
matter, I should like very much to hear
of any public park in which the public
had the opportunity of making a fair com¬
parison. “ P. R.” is evidently unacquainted
with well-grown hardy plants, or he would not
talk of their being knocked over and bedraggled
by a thunder show’er. That is the common lot
of bedding plants, but not of hardy flowers.
Hardy plants which are knocked over by n,
shower of rain are badly grown or wrongly-
placed. Of course, if we plant things whicH
naturally lean upon other plants for support:,
w’here such support is absent we must support
them artificially. Double flowers must in many
instances be supported, because in them
have added an unnaturally heavy flower; bvxt
even in them support is rarely required if they
are properly cultivated.

In justice to “ P. It.” I must mention, how¬
ever, that much of the soil near Glasgow is un¬
favourable t<J- gardening, so much so that
Glasgow people visiting more favoured districts
a re nurprised at the vigour and beauty of tlxo
plants.-, 4jVh«n ooxjidiUicMM^uiH^yjourable one

August 16, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

273

must grow wliafc will thrive best. Even with
bedding plants it is wonderful what can be done
in picturesque gardening. Old Pelargonium
plants cut back in autumn, just kept alive in
winter, and planted out in late spring, make an
astonishing display of bloom. Fuschias are
always graceful and pretty if not crowded.
Dahlias and all the so-called sub-tropicals make
fine groups when well contrasted. All that is
necessary when these are used is to see that all
the outlines of the beds are hidden, so that the
plants seem growing out of the Grass, and that
there is no look of rows or patterns. One
almost always sees foliage plants used by the
dozen, all of a height and less decorative than
as many Cabbages running to seed. That is how
not to do it. “P. R. misunderstands my
recommendation to imitate nature. We must
not imitate nature in a blind or mechanical way,
but intelligently. What is meant by imitating
nature is the planting of groups of plants
such as would tempt an artist to sit down and
draw them, and the allowing of each plant to
develop its natural habit of growth without in¬
terference. Of course double florists’ flowers are
not found growing wild anywhere, but where
used as part of a decorative scheme they can be
treated on the same lines. To give an instance.
On the chalk downs here the turf is almost
wholly composed of very dwarf plants, Lotus
corniculatus, Thyme, Sun Roses, Polygala
calcarea and P. vulgaris, and a very dwarf
Hawkweed being the principal. The leaves of
these plants do not rise more than 3 inches from
the soil, and mostly only about 1 inch. Out
of this Evergreen carpet, as you approach the
coppices, rise single plants and little groups of
Orchis maculata and 0. pyramidalis, tall blue
Viper’s Bugloss, yellow Mulleins; and close to
the shrubs, Cowslips, Primroses, Bugles, wood
Hyacinths, Campanula Trachelium, Colum¬
bines, Gladwin Iris, and many other less showy
plants, while the shrubs are festooned with
Virgin’s Bower. Now to imitate that in a
garden could not be done except on the same
bare chalk. The finest garden turf could never
equal in beauty and interest the natural green
carpet, but well kept turf will imitate its effect
when out of flower fairly well. Groups of tall
and dwarf plants rising from the turf may stand
for the isolated shrubs and the plants round
them. The splendid garden Clematises, with
Tropaeolums and Convolvulus, may take the
place of the Virgin’s Bower; English and
.Spanish Iris and Gladioli may stand for the
Gladwin ; choice Primulas for our wild native
Poppy, Anemones for our wood ones ; a sub¬
tropical plant here and there for our native
Burdock ; the choicer Verbascums for our
Mullein, and the garden Spineas for our
Meadow-sweet. A wrong use of a climbing
plant in a garden is to nail it to a wall
with all its branches out as fruit trees on
espaliers are trained. A right use is to let
it ramble over trees or groups of rustic poles
forming festoons of leaves and flowers.
Geometric bedding is unsuitable for small
gardens, where, if used at all, it has to be
almost the sole decoration. It requires large
spaces and well-separated beds to allow of suffi¬
cient contrast and variety. A small front plot
20 feet square, decorated with four rows of
plants all round alike, and a round bed on turf
in the centre, with a miserable starved mop of a
Standard Rose in the centre of it, making a few
weakly shoots 7 inches long, and not much
thicker than a crowquil, the variety being one
| which with decent cultivation would make
- shoots 5 feet long anti almost half an inch
thick, was the kind of thing one usually saw a
few years ago. Now all that is changed ; laud¬
able attempts are being made at a higher style
of decoration, and although these are in many
■ases lamentable failures through the persist¬
ence of ideas which sprang from bedding out,
&nd through the difficulty of getting the best
plants in small quantities, onlv a few of the
r *st nurseries keeping the really good things,
progress is being rapidly made which will with¬
out doubt continue. It is a lamentable mistake
a any possessor of a small garden to go in for
adding and wilfully deprive himself of ninety-
line hundredths of the pleasure of floriculture,
i small plot is quite sufficient in which to grow
»nice little collection of Anemones, Pansies,
iiepaticas, Primulas, TaHps, Polyanthuses,
iris, Gladioli, Lilies, fhloMe&, 1 rums,
Chrysanthemums, DahliaWrEPBTpftiniami^ rmks,

Carnations, Daffodils, Scillas, Pentstemons, and
Antirrhinums. These, with flowering shrubs
and climbers, should form the stock-in-trade of
the smaller class of gardens, with a few other
showy hardy plants here and there. Hardy and
half-hardy annuals and biennials can be used to
give change and variety.

Iam greatly obliged to “R. A. H. G.” for
his article, and hope all other readers will bear
in mind that we are all labouring in the same
cause and to the same end, and that all our
paper wars should, like those of the Greeks and
Amazons, end in embraces. J. D.

ALPINE PINKS.

For rough rockwork or walls few plants
succeed better than the different species of single
Alpine Pinks. They do not overspread their
neighbours inconveniently, and they are charm¬
ingly bright whilst in flower. When over for
the season, a few clips with a pair of garden
shears removes all unsightly withered bents,
and the short, neat, blue-green “grass” looks
cheerful at all seasons. Here on the bleak Dorset¬
shire downs, where we have to content ourselves
with rough banks of flints for rockwork, these
Pinks root under the stones, and fill up the
crevices in the prettiest way. To begin with,
there is the Maiden Pink (Dianthus deltoides),
which is the dwarfest of all and a somewhat
rare British plant, being found wild in Scot¬
land and the northern counties of England and
Wales, but nowhere very commonly. This
species never grows, when in flower, more than
fi inches high, and is found in two varieties,
D. deltoides proper, with bright pink flowers,
and D. delt. glaueus, with white nowers, both
having a ring of a darker shade at the base of
the petals.

The Maiden Pink is a favourite old border
plant, and succeeds anywhere, whether on the
level border or otherwise ; but it prefers,
perhaps, a dry, sunny bank, where it may
remain undisturbed, and blossom without fail,
year after year. The pink sort is the one
generally considered the best, being one of the
most cheerful of dwarf rock plants. Its small
flowers, each no larger than a threepenny piece,
are produced in such profusion that they have
a very telling effect, even from a distance, when
a large mass or clump is grown. It is easily
raised from seed or from cuttings, and may also
be increased by division. It will be found a
useful plant for any garden, great or small, and
is very suitable for planting on the margins of
such borders as have stone or flint edgings.
Scarcely taller than the preceding is the

Sand Pink (D. arenarius), also an excellent
rock plant, or for positions on dry, sandy banks.
Its pale purple or white flowers are profusely
borne and carried well above its neat, tufted
foliage, and it lasts in bloom for some weeks.
This is a good perennial Pink, giving no trouble,
and is easily raised from seed or cuttings. The
flowers of seedlings vary somewhat, some having
a ring of a darker shade and others being self-
coloured, but ail pale lilac or blush, or white
with fringed petals. The individual blooms are
about the size of a sixpence, and seed is freely
ripened. The dwarf grey-green grass of the
Sand Pink is at all times pleasing as it creeps
about the stones. A much more robust plant is
the

Caucasian Pink (D. caucasicus), which
reaches 12 inches, and sometimes more, in
height, and the foliage of which more nearly
resembles that of the old-fashioned Chinese or
Indian Pink. Its rosy, purple-ringed flowers
are as large as a shilling, and are very sweet-
scented. This is also a long-lasting perennial
lant, remaining for several years without
egenerating, especially on a stony bank, but
it succeeds almost as well on a level border.
The Caucasian Pink is freely raised from seeds,
but seems more difficult to strike from cuttings
than some of the species. Another interesting
j-ock Pink is the

Austrian Feathered Pink (D. superbus),
of Parkinson. Its flowers, which vary from
pink to white in different plants, have finely-cut
petals, and closely resemble in form those of
Ragged Robin (Lychnis flos cuculi). All old
writers make a special reference to the sweet¬
ness of this Pink, which is said by one of them
to be “of a most fragrant scent, comforting the
spirits and senses afar off.” It is worth a
passing notice that the scent of Pinks and

Carnations is seldom found to be overpowering
in a room, even by the most susceptible. The
grass of this species lacks the glaueus hue of
most of the others, and in the pink and lilac
varieties the stems are prettily tinged with
red brown at the joints. Altogether it is a
very desirable kind, and one which in the soil
here last well as a perennial, but this is not
the case everywhere. It can be as freely raised
from seeds, however, as an annual, or from
cuttings, which is the best way to perpetuate
any particularly good plant; but why this
modest little Pink of humble stature should
receive the title of “ superbus ” remains unac¬
countable. There are several more species of
Alpine Pinks which are worth growing, and
one of the most distinct of these is the

Toothed Pink (D. dentosus), which has
plum-coloured ringed flowers. It has proved
less robust in this garden than any of the
foregoing, and possibly partakes of the biennial
character which belongs to so many of its
allies ; nor is it so free flowering, but it is
well worthy, if only for the sake of distinctness,
of a place in the rock garden.

Dianthus sylvestris is another desirable
species, with bright pink self-coloured flowers,
and very dark foliage. Somewhat similar in
habit, but very distinct from it, is D. longi-
caulis, a charming rock Pink with rose-coloured
flowers, the reflexed petals of which serve to
distinguish it from any other with which I am
acquainted. The two last bear their flowers on
very long stems, and are better grown in such
positions where their flowers may hang over the
slope of a rock or stony bank.

The above by no means exhaust the list of
Alpine Pinks, but the object of this notice of
them is to call attention to the easily grown
species ; for some, like the beautiful Alpine
Pink (D. alpinus) itself, or the Icy Pink (D.
glacialis), are not to be coaxed into full beauty
in any situation and in any soil like those here
mentioned. One more, however, should not be
omitted, our native grey or Cheddar Pink
(D. ccesius), which, if it continues to be torn
from its fastnesses in the grand cliffs which give
it its name, will soon be expunged from the
ranks of our wild plants altogether. This
species obstinately refuses to thrive in the level
border, but once get it established amongst
rough stones in poor soil, or in some chink or
cranny of a crumbling old wall, and it will de¬
light its possessor for many a returning year
with its delicate fragrance. The best way is to
drop a seed or two here and there, one moist
spring day, into any suitable crevice on a sunny
wall. Some are sure to sprout and grow, and
then all that has to be done is to leave the young
lants to the sunshine and the rain, and the
ews of Heaven, until some happy day the
sweet surprise of their pale fringed flowers
greets the sower with a rich reward for a trifling
care once bestowed and long since forgotten.

K. L. D.

Replanting Snowdrops and Crocus.
—We have just taken up some lines of Snow¬
drops and Crocus (which are the glory of our old
garden during the early spring days), and shall
replant them after trenching and manuring the
soil, which has become poor because thickly
laced with the far-reaching roots of trees. The
mice also had made some ugly gaps in the Crocus
lines, and so replanting will repair their ravages
also for a time. June would be a still better
time to replant Snowdrops, as they have already
begun to root afresh after shedding their leaves,
but the Crocus roots are still quite rootless, and
so in right condition for lifting. It is best
not to lift all one’s stock of any one species
every year—a rotatory system of replanting is
better in the case of those kinds which flower
better in old-established masses. Even when
not replanted all our bulbs are mulched with
leaf-mould, peat dust (or tur^-mould), or well
rotted manure at least once during the year,
an attention which is rewarded by a harvest of
fine bold flowers.

The old crimson Clove. —This is now
finely in flower in many London gardens, and
we think of all Carnations this is the most use¬
ful. Its flowers are more pleasant in smell than
any other. It was blooming in June, and buds
are opening daily now No garden, l«t it
belong to a cottage or castle, should be without
it. It is> reasily propagated by the ordinary

274

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 16, 1884.

method of layering, and old plants will keep on
growing and blooming year after year without
any fresh propagation. It is suitable for any
position in the garden. Beds of it may be
formed in the flower garden. Groups or single
plants of it may bo placed here and there in
mixed flower beds and borders with advantage.

A moderately rich soil suits it well in all situa¬
tions.

Tuberous Begonias.— Very few plants
have so quickly attained the popularity that
this class of Begonias has, and there can be little
doubt that they are destined, and that very
shortly, to become as generally grown for flower
garden purposes as are bedding Pelargoniums.
For the last three years we have used them
somewhat sparingly, but they are so effective,
and withstand both drought and wet as well—
far better even than Pelargoniums—that they
are noted to be grown in largely increased
numbers. Our tubers were bought from a firm
which grows them largely for seeding purposes,
as well as for the sale of the tubers that are sent
out with seed orders whilst the tubers are at
rest; and, though the kinds were stated not to
be first-class for bedding purposes, they justly
merit that designation. I name this, that
buyers may confidently speculate without fear
of getting worthless kinds. Some plants that
we raised from seed sown in January last, and
that are now being grown on in cold frames, will
make excellent tubers for planting out next
season. Our tubers are lifted at the end of
October and wintered in shallow boxes, in which
they are packed as closely together as possible,
and the interstices filled in with fine soil; they
are then placed in any out-of-the-way shed or
cellar that frost cannot penetrate—a decided
gain, this, in comparison with Pelargoniums,
that must have both heat and valuable space in
greenhouses the whole of the winter season.

Pansies from seed. —For ordinary border
decoration it is a good plan to grow a few
Pansies from seed, and the best variety to begin
with is the Belgian. They are more hardy as
seedlings and more robust as plants than the
other kinds, and have the additional advantage
of yielding a greater variety of colours. The
seed should be sown now in pans of light, leafy
soil, such as sand, leaf-mould, and mould from
rotted turfs, and placed in a cool, shady place.
When a mixed packet of seed is sown, it is
important to sow each seed separately, at dis¬
tances of 1£ inch or so, that the first seeds which
germinate may bo removed as soon as they have
made three pairs of leaves without disturbing
the weaker and more backward ones; for
amongst those seeds w r hich are the last to germi
nate will be found the greatest proportion of
finely-coloured flowers. It follows from this
that the seed must be fresh, or nearly all those
flowers will be lost.

Hardy Bamboos.— Bambusa Metake
now generally acknowledged to be the best and
most vigorous of all the really hardy Bamboos
for ordinary garden culture. Once well planted
it succeeds almost everywhere, but there are
two others which do fairly well with us, and
are, like B. Metake, most distinct and orna¬
mental. B. Mazeli is somewhat like B. Metake
in habit, but more branched and of a fresher
and paler green colour. It is now making
young wands 5 feet high, and bids fair to
succeed permanently with us. B. Nigra also is
distinct, w ith dark purplish stems, and of the
dwarfer kinds, B. Ragamouski is spreading in
all directions. These graceful plants are never
so effective as when planted in sheltered posi¬
tions on the turf, from which their leafy wands
can spring unrestrained. Even in cold or bleak
positions where tender kinds fall in the open-
air climate, the wonder is that they are not more
often utilised for planting out in ccol conserva¬
tories. Certainly they would add a light and
graceful charm to our gardens if more freely
used.— Dublin.

Variegated Stonecrop (Sedum carncum
variegatum).—This is a pretty little plant, suit¬
able for edging small flower beds in summer, or
for hanging baskets in cool houses or apart¬
ments. Although hardy, it enjoys protection in
the winter, losing its foliage in severe weather.
The variegation is very constant, the stems
being suffused with-'pink, so thatJwhen well
cared for it has ivenfVea
Where vases arc maHe-np with
for open-air decoration, thislittl

be extensively used, as when planted in good
soil it grows with great freedom, and quickly
forms a dense curtain of pretty variegation.—C.

Bocconia cordata is handsome alike in
foliage and flower, and contrasts well with tall
blue Delphiniums, scarlet Turk’s-cap Lilies, and
the bold golden-fringed flowers of Telekia
speciosa. Planted alone in bold masses, it forms
one of the most effective of all hardy sub¬
tropical plants, and seems to grow freely alike
in all deep rich soils. In some collections it is
known as Macleaya cordata. It is by far the
largest growing and best of all the Poppy Worts
so far as foliage effects are concerned.

Pinks. — I have been told that Pinks for forc¬
ing are getting scarce. There is no need that
this should happen. They are so easily propa¬
gated, and a very little attention during summer
ensures strong healthy flowering plants by the
end of the season. The right thing is to get
cuttings of them struck early in May to be ready
for planting into store beds by the end of June.
We have Pinks in bloom from early in March
until the end of June.—J.

Helenium Bolanderi. —This is a new'
hardy perennial Composite introduced by
Messrs. Vilmorin, of Paris, from California,
where it grows naturally in meadows and
swamps near the sea. It is described in the
“Botany of California” as a striking large-
flowered species, the ray florets of which are an

Holonium Bolanderi. Flowers bright yellow'.

sarance.
[g plants
dnm should

inch long and bright yellow. It has stout
stems growing only a foot or two high, and
forms a neat habited plant, flowering late
in the summer and autumn. It is nearly related
to both H. Hooperi and II. autumnale, and
possesses the advantage of not being so tall as
either. Should it come into flower just before
the favourite Kudbecki New’manni, it will be

valuable plant. It can now, doubtless, be
readily obtained at most good hardy plant
nurseries.

Pentstemons. —Among herbaceous plants
few, if any, are more showy and useful than
Pentstemons, which, besides assisting largely to
make borders gay during several months in the
year, are of great value for cutting ; their light,
graceful spikes of flowers are not only dressy,
but they last fresh for a long time in water.
The way to get plenty of variety is to obtain a
packet of seed of a good strain, and to sow
either in pans filled with fine soil or under a
handlight, where it can be kept close and damp
till the seed germinates, when the young plants
should be pricked off under glass, and shaded
for a few days till they become re-established,
after w r hich it is necessary for them to be fully
exposed in order that the growth they make may
be sturdy and strong. Although Pentstemons
are classed as hardy, they are only so in favoured
parts of the country or in sheltered positions,
and only stand uninjured when we have mild
winters ; that being so, it is always advisable to
protect them by having them in frames during the
season named, and t plant out after they nave
bc',:n hardened o .

best time for sowing, as plants raised then
bloom with great freedom the following
year, as do also those from cuttings made now.
In keeping up a stock in this way the best only
should be selected, and by propagating annually
and weeding out, a garden may soon be made
rich with very fine sorts, as Pentstemons have
been so much improved that the flowers are far
richer in colour and double the size and sub¬
stance they were. The easiest way to strike
cuttings is to take off the young, half-ripe shoots
at about 3 inches long, and, haying trimmed
them in the ordinary manner, to insert them in
sharp sandy mould under the shelter of a hand-
light, which should be shaded by sticking a few
branches of Evergreens on the sunny side ; they
will soon root if kept syringed and properly
moist, and may then be taken up and potted
singly to be wintered in cold frames till the
time arrives for planting them out. Although
Pentstemons will grow in almost any kind. of
soil, they succeed and flower best in that which
is rich and deep, as the stronger the shoots are
the finer will the spikes of blooms be if the plants
are in an open, sunny position, so as to hav6 the
full benefit of all the light and air to build up
and stiffen their stems. As a protection to old

r lants that it may be desired to keep on borders,
have found half-rotten leaves answer well ;
a few handfuls of them placed round the collars
and kept there by a branch or two of Whin,
to prevent the birds scattering them abroad,
will preserve them from sharp frost sufficiently
to enable them to break and start well again.
—S.

Madonna Lilies.—There is no doubt these
do best in old gardens where the soil has been
long under cultivation. They did very well
with me at New Cross in shallow soil, which
had been an old common, but had been culti¬
vated as a market garden for thirty or forty
years. Wherever I have noticed them doing
particularly well it has been in soil from
18 inches to 2 feet deep on a hard, well-drained
bottom. The bulbs I brought here, with me
four years ago have only flowered this year for
the first time ; they were planted in soil which
had never previously received any cultivation.
From a little experience I had this year I should
feel inclined to enrich the ground for them with
rotted Grass mowings. I had two dozen fresh
bulbs last autumn, three of which I could not
find places for. These lay out in the box in
which they came, covered with the packing
material, hay, straw, and wood shavings. In
March they were not only alive and strong, but
had sent out fresh roots from 3 inches to
6 inches long along the bottom of the box
beneath the rotting litter, and were beginning
to rise for bloom. I feel sure they should not
be planted in a raised bed. I do not think the
bulbs of the white Lily are ever really dormant.
The new growth begins when 'the upward
growth of the plant stops while the bloom buds
are forming. I had one broken by the wind at
that period, and on examining the bulb I found
just a few loose scales. Sometimes the scales
close in and a new bulb is formed nearly at the
same place as the old ; at other times one or
more bulbs form at the side. With most bulbous
Lilies nothing appears above ground but the
flower-stem, but with the white Lily the last
few scales to form of the new bulbs appear
above ground and take the form of leaves. The
best time to move white Lilies is just when the
growing point is ready to pierce the ground ;
that seems to be the nearest approach to the
dormant period of other bulbs ; they assume a
sharp-pointed form and then lie dormant while
the flower-stem forms inside.—J. D.

Plants for Rhododendron beds.— In
some places it is customary in beds of thinly
planted Rhododendrons, Azaleas, &c., to plant
herbaceous plants and bulbs amongst them with
a view to a continued show of bloom throughout
the summer, and now that the flush of Rhodo¬
dendrons is over, it is gratifying to note the
comparative lesser lights peeping out among
their massive associates that have been brighten -
ing us up for the past three months. In such
positions we employ a variety of plants, con¬
spicuous now among them being I oxgloves
(white and spotted), Delphiniums, and Campa¬
nula!}, the towering spikes of varied colours as
seen among and above the. shrubs being very
out after they have 1 effective. Spineas (japonic^, mlmata, ami
spring, which is the Aruncus), Phloxes (suu'ruticosab ^ ,u ’ly flowering

I

August 16, 1884.] GARDENING ILLUSTRATED 275

Lilies, Canterbury Bells, Anchusa italica, Snap¬
dragons, Pentstemons, Peeonies, Oriental Pop¬
pies, and Columbines, together with such orna-
mental-foliaged as well as tlowering plants as
Thalictrums, equally varied in height as in the
diversity of their beautiful foliage ; Funkias,
Cannas, Eryngiums (notably amethystinum),
Acanthuses, Ferulas, Boccouia cordata, &e. ;
and in open spaces near the margins, good
clumps of Sweet Williams, mule rinks, and
strong-growing Carnations ; while such shrubs
as Japanese Roses, Fuchsias (Riccartoni and
gracilis), in large bushes, now in full bloom, all
combine to make up a show of wonderful
variety in form and colour and of great beauty,
even if a little less brilliant than the Rhodo¬
dendrons lately were. Present appearances
also justify our expectations in the near future
of a continued display from such as Liliums
(some stems of auratum from established
clumps are already upwards of 6 feet high),
Gladioli (undisturbed for the last three years),
Phloxes (decussata), Michaelmas Daisies, Trito-
mas, Dahlias, single and double, See ., which will
probably carry us on until late in the year.—
Taffy.

Sweet Peas in succession.— It may not
be generally known that from a single sowing
of these a constant succession of flowers may be
had throughout the entire season. We are so
accustomed to see the rows withered up after
the first flush of beauty, that some may think
that constant flowering is an impossibility ; but
from repeated tests for several years past I con¬
fidently assert that it can be done, and that,
too, at but little cost of labour. The first re¬
quisite is well-manured soil, and in light soils
surface mulchings are a necessity ; the seed-
pods should be kept picked off. Our plan is to
go over them for this purpose regularly once a
week ; the points of the haulm are pinched
when about 3 feet high, and this causes lateral
extension ; they are again pinched at 5 feet, and
it is to these side shoots that the extended
season of flowering is due. The whole treat¬
ment may be summed up as follows : Plenty of
manure and water, regular removal of seed-pods,
and pinching out of the points of the haulm,
including the points of laterals when the plants
have extended to 2 feet or so in length.

New Zealand Flax. —I observe in your
issue of 19th of July a letter from “G.,”
Witham, regarding the culture of the Phormium
tenax, or New Zealand Flax, in this country.
The paragraph is headed “ Hardiness of New
Zealand Flax,” but the pains taken to keep it
alive appear to point rather in a contrary direc¬
tion. The writer suggests that “ it might, with
care, be made, even as far north as the middle
of Essex, a handsome plant.” He will, there¬
fore, be interested, as also I daresay will many
of your readers, in learning that in this, the
most northerly of the Orkney Isles, situated in
latitude 59 degs. 22 min. North, it not only grows
without further protection than the proximity
of a low wall, but shoots above the wall,
flowers every alternate year (instead of every
third year in its native country), and ripens
seed abundantly. The leaves attain a height of
over S feet, and the flowering stem nearly
10 feet. Our plants here were raised from seed
sent from New Zealand, and commenced flower¬
ing in the eighth year after being sown. We
have now several hundred young plants raised
from seed ripened here last autumn. The severe
winter of 1880-81 left our plants uninjured ;
some of them flowered in 18S1 and again in
1883. The explanation of their growing so far
north seems to be that owing to our insular
position we have very little frost, and our
climate is still further tempered by the waters
of the Gulf Stream flowing through the islands.
For instance, in the winter of 1880-81, alluded
to by your correspondent, and which was, I
believe, unprecedentedly severe, our lowest
temperature was 23 degs. Fall., or only 9 degs.
of frost, as compared with 20 degs. noted by
your correspondent. The following New Zea¬
land plants have also stood the past eight
winters in our garden here :—Astelia grandis,
SchifHera digitata, Podocarpus totara, Me-
trosideros lucida (or the Rata), Dicksonia
antarctica, and the Myrsine australis. A
visitor from the south" would be surprised to
find how many planti genirM T y rin|; the
protection of a greenhoelKr grow^WaneSn the
open air all the year round. Tiro Veronica

decussata, a native of the Falkland Islands, is
more hardy than the common Hawthorn, and
grows into fine shrubs 0 feet in height. The
Veronica buxifolia was next tried, and found to
do equally well, and some four or five varieties
of hybrids have now established themselves,
the seeds being self-sown.—J. Tkaill.

Carnations in towns.— The Carnation
and Picotee are true townsman’s flowers. I
grow mine in a long narrow garden, with a
nigh wall on one side and a lot of trees on the
other, and amid any quantity of “blacks.”
Sometimes I take the Auriculas and wash them
with a brush in three waters, the first coming
as black as one’s hat sometimes, but they do
well. Since I began them in utter, innocent
ignorance two years ago, I have only lost two
plants, and they were weakly when received.
Roses I am giving up as a perfect failure, yet
thirty years ago Roses grew a mile nearer town
than this perfectly. One of these times, when
you happen to have a vacant corner, I should
like to say a word of what I have seen of the
shocking deterioration of climate as far as some
plants are concerned that has gone on the last
twenty-five years in Clapham, and the same is
true of most other London suburbs, no doubt.
Carnation growing, I think, is spreading, and
this is hardly to be wondered at when one
thinks that one must go at least ten or twelve
miles out of town now to grow a Rose in proper
character.—M. R.

11805. —Pinks, Pansies, and Carna¬
tions. —It is better to transplant Pansies every
third year, as they, more than many things,
like a free, well-stirred soil. They do not like
rank manure, but a little well-rotted dung may
be mixed with the soil at planting time. What
does them most good is a mulch some 2 inches
thick of decomposed manure applied in March,
as this keeps the roots cool during hot weather,
and the enriching properties are gradually
worked down by rain and worms, thereby pro¬
moting a more free and continuous bloom.
Pinks are of a more hardy and enduring nature,
and will live and thrive for several years in the
same place, but they are better for removal now
and then ; and the same may be said of Carna¬
tions. Of these latter it is advisable to layer a
few shoots every year, so as to guard against
losing any good kind. After flowering is the
proper time, just cutting half through the lower
most joint, bending it into the ground, and
securing it there by a peg. By the autumn
they will have made roots, and may be taken
off. Neither Carnations nor Pinks like rank
manure, but a top-dressing of rotten dung in early
spring does them good. Cuttings of named
sorts of Pansies should be taken in summer, as
sometimes the old plants will suddenly die off
Choose those that spring from the base of the
plant, and insert them in a shady situation.
Seed may also be saved from the best kinds. A
few seedlings raised every year afford interest
and variety.—J. C., Byflcet.

- Pansies should be propagated from cut¬
tings annually in August, and the plants should
be put out on a bed that has been well enriched
with cow manure. Pinks ought to be renewed
annually by taking what the fanciers term
“ pipings ” early in July, that is, the side
growths from the base of the plants, and
push them in as cuttings. They should be
planted in the bed where they are to flower in
October. Carnations ought to be wintered in
pots in a cold frame, to be planted out in beds
that have been well manured and deeply trenched
the previous autumn.—J. D. E.

11797.—Flowers all the year round.—
Plaid in September: Primula rosea, P. japonica,
P. Sieboldi; Primroses, double white, red,
yellow, and lilac; Primroses, single, early
mauve, white, and red ; Polyanthuses, exile,
white, and six good golden-edged varieties;
Aquilegia chrysantha and glandulosa; Gen-
tiana acaulis (mix gravel with the soil when you
plant it), six early Phloxes, Ware’s double
Sweet William, Anemone japonica, Honorine
Jobert, twelve alpine Auriculas, purple Aubric-
tias, yellow Alyssum, white variegated Arabis,
Buphthalum, Candytuft; Carnations, Glorie de
Nancy, Mary Morris, Mrs. Mathews, Clove,
AdmiralCurzon,Grenadin, Fireman, Sportsman,
Prince of Orange, Yellow Queen ; Pinks, Mrs.
Sinkins, old white, Rubens, Anne Boleyn ;
DictamnusFraxinellaand albus : P isies, double
red and white; D elytra sp< ; Deutzia

gracilis, Daphne Cneorum, Doronicum austria-
cum, Galega officinalis alba, Helleborus niger
(Christmas Rose) ; Hepticas, double, pink, and
angulosa. Plant in Spiring: Dahlias, single,
scarlet, White Queen, yellow*, and six small
kinds ; six Lilium candidum, twelve tuberous-
rooted Begonias, twelve rootsof Tigridia Pavonia
(plant in tw*o clumps), two Gaillardia grandiflora,
twenty-four blue Lobelia, twenty-four Gladiolus
Brenchleyensis, six G. the Bride, six G. com¬
munis, six Gazunia splendens, twenty-four good
Roses, six Michaelmas Daisies, one Inula
grandiflora ; Lychnis, single and double, scarlet;
twenty-four good Pansies ; white, yellow, and
purple Violas; six good Pyrethrums, six good
Pentstemons. Plant in November in clump of .? ix:
Crocus and Snowdrop; Tulips, six vermilion
Brilliant, six white Pottebarker, six yellow Potte-
barker, six yellow Rose, six cottage Maides, six
Imperator rubrorum, six Cacandem, twelve Gcs-
neriana Tulip ; Anemones, twelve scarlet single,
twelve scarlet double, twelve fulgens, twelve
apennina, twelve Nemorosa, double ; Daffodils,
Horsfieldi moschatus, common Lent Lily, dsuble
yellow; Narcissus, Pheasant’s Eye and Poeticus.
Sow in September for Spring flowering .- Corn¬
flowers, blue and mixed, Forget-me-Not, sylva-
tica and dissitiflora; Agrostemma flos Jovis,
Silene pendula, Sweet Peas, Limnanthcs
Douglasii. Sow in Spring : Sweet Peas, Migno¬
nette, Cornflowers, and yellow Sultan. Bulbs
of Lilies, planted among the perennials, look
well and take no extra room, as they ’flow er
above the other plants. If you have a wall,
Ampelopsis Veitchii, Gloiro de Dijon Rose,
white and yellow Jessamine, Jasminum nudi-
florum, Clematis Jackmani, and Trop.'eolum
speciosum are indispensable. I believe many
seedsmen sell seeds of w*ild flowers, but it is
best to take it yourself of anything you fancy.
The numbers and quantities are merely put for
a guide as to proportions of each colour.—Ax
Old Lady Gardener.

- There is a host of plants which can be

grown in a small garden with but little trouble.
Unless a garden is very small indeed, any of the
hardy perennials can be grown there. There are
Pansies, Polyanthuses, Primroses, hardy bulbs
of all kinds—Violas, alpine Auriculas, Carna¬
tions, Pinks, Picotees, hardy Fuchsias, Christ¬
mas Roses, and Wallflowers, are of dw*arf habits
and easy of culture. Some of the best hardy
perennials are — Anemono japonica and its
white variety, Achillea Ptarmiea fl.-pl., Cam¬
panula carpatica and latifolia, Coreopsis lanceo-
lata, (Enothera Fraseri, Plaintain Lilies, St.
John’s Wort, Delphiniums, Phloxes, Lychnis
Viscariasplendens, Campanulapersicifoliati.-pi.,
Gentiana acaulis, Potentillas, Everlasting Peas,
Anemone fulgens and apennina. These are a
few of the best of the hardy perennials, but
there are plenty of others which may be grown
with but ordinary care. Then there are Roses,
both hybrid perpetuals and monthly, Ferns for
shady nooks, Stonecrops and Sedum for dry,
sunny places; also Clematises, which in them¬
selves are a host, as they bloom profusely from
July to October. They may be trained to poles
over trellis or archways or round Pea sticks,
being in each and every way wonderfully effec¬
tive. Annuals of many kinds may be employed,
and if sown both in autumn and spring will
render a garden gay with but little expense and
trouble. Such hardy kinds as Clarkia, Collin-
cia, Silene, Erysimum, Saponaria, Godetia, &c.,
may be sowm early in September to stand the
winter, and they will come into bloom in early
summer ; sown again in March and April, there
will be a succession through the summer months.
Then there are Lilies, Buch as the Old White,
the Tiger, the Orange, speciosum, Szovitzianum
and umbellatum, early flowering Gladiola, Peri¬
winkles, both plain-leaved and variegated ; flow¬
ering shrubs of many kinds, such as Deutzias,
Spineas, Berberis Darwinii, Weigelas, Laurus-
tinus, See. —J. C. B.

-Plant a border with alternate clumps of

Crocus, Snowdrops, Anemone roots (move these
when done flowering), sow Mignonette, Saponaria,
or any other annuals, then plants of Phloxes, Del¬
phiniums, Geums, Japanese Anemones, Hemcro-
callis Lilies, various Campanulas, Francoas,
white and orange Lilies, Lily of the Valley ;
them, between the plants, tufts of Daffodils,
Narcissi, Gladioli, and Irk, all of which you
can get in :Octcd*:r. while now you can get slips
of Pinks, Carnations, Rockets, and Wall-

276

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 16, 1884.

flowers, which may be transplanted as soon as
rooted, to fill your garden without more trouble
for years, except to fork in old manure every
spring.—M. C., Dublin.

11804.—Carnations. —The right time to
remove the layers from Carnations is about the
first week in October. When they have been
growing three or four years in one place it is
better to plant a new bed somewhere else, and
destroy the old one when the other is estab¬
lished. The plants will grow -and flower ten
years in the same place, if they receive an annual
dressing of rich compost, but they are not so
satisfactory as young plants. Old plants may
be removed and planted in fresh ground, but it
is much better to layer the young growths and
remove them in-October.—J. D. E.

-Carnation layers may be cut off as soon as well

rooted and put in beds. The old stools may remain for
three years if old manure be forked in round them, but
I prefer cutting off straggling branches and old roots and
movincr them in September to the borders, putting them
down deep and the soil well in the centres. They (and Pan¬
sies) require rich soil and sand. Cow manure well rotted is
best for both.—M. C.

11809.—Sweet Williams and Wall¬
flowers. —Sweet Williams will often bloom
better the second than the first year of flower¬
ing. As the season is so far advanced, I would
let the Wallflowers remain if they are not too
drawn and lanky. They will make a fine show
of bloom in the spring. We clear away most of
ours in the spring the first year of flowering, as.
soon as they have done blooming, to make room
for summer flowering plants ; and in the autumn
we fill up vacancies that occur at that time with
young stocky Wallflower plants from the reserve
garden.—L. C. K.

-— They will bloom for years, especially the latter,
which, being of a hardy enduring nature, last for years with¬
out needing transplanting. In the case of Wallflowers it
is advisable to yearly raise a few from seed, as hard winters
sometimes kill off old plants and younger ones bloom most
satisfactorily.—J. C. B.

- You will do well to leavo them alone as they will

make large plants and bloom well next year and the* year
following. Now’ is a good time to sow more seed.—G eorok
Beaumont.

-Sweet Williams and Wallflowers will flower for years

if well manured, and straggling branches cut off the Sweet
Williams, and the old wood off the Wallflow ers.—M. C.

VEGETABLES.

SOWING ONIONS IN AUTUMN.
Autumn-sown Onions form such an important
crop that the proper time for dealing with it
should not be allowed to pass unnoticed. In
sowing, sufficient seed should be put in to pro¬
duce plants enough to draw young and use as
salad throughout the winter, besides furnishing
a supply in April and May next, when the
previous year’s Onions are generally scarce and
new ones not ready; and last, but not least, a
good number of plants should be raised to trans¬
plant in the spring and grow on throughout the
summer or until this time, when they will
become large and handsome in size and valuable
for any purpose for which large Onions are
required. For exhibiting throughout May,
June, and July there are no Onions so fine as
autumn-sown ones, and all who are interested
in such matters should do their best with them.
Amongst Onions of this kind we have had bulbs
by the end of June weighing 1 lb. 4 oz., and
handsome in proportion to their size.

Varieties.— The TriDoli and Giant Rocca are
the kinds most commonly sown in antumn, and
the white-skinned varieties always come to
maturity first; but for a really good sound
autumn Onion nothing equals the Giant Zittau,
and it is one of the hardiest to stand the winter.
The bulbs grow to one and a-half pounds in
weight, and are as fine in shape and as hand¬
some in appearance as any Onions I have ever
seen. They arc pale yellow in colour. We
have sown more seed of it this autumn than of
all the others put together. Twelve of this
Onion put into the scales just now weigh a
little over twelve pounds. From now onwards
it will keep as long as the Banbury, Reading,
white Spanish, or any other of that type, and
this is more than any of the other autumn-sown
kinds will do.

Preparation of the soil.— The ground
intended for winter Onions cannot be too well
prepared. It should be deeply dug, heavily
manured, and well expensed to the sura. It is a
waste of everything *> try? tjf g futons on
poor, shady soil, am^Jw^roveMitliwe is a

suspicion of any grubs existing, that ground
must also be avoided, as although the plants
may come up and do well for a time, the grubs
are sure to attack them, and just when the
plants are becoming useful they perish. Ground
which has been repeatedly heavily manured of
late, aud now very rich, might seem suitable for
Onions, but I would think twice before I con¬
signed the seed to such a spot. Very rich
ground is just the sort in which all kinds of
maggots generate and thrive, and unless a large
quantity of lime, soot, or salt was dug into it,
the Onions would be sure to perish. Last
spring we put the contents of some earth closets
on our spring-transplanted Onion ground, and
this is still rich with material in which Onions
delight, but I know it is maggoty; and, suitable
as it would be for another crop of Onions, we
will not risk the autumn seed there. On the
contrary, we are sowing it on one of the poorest
pieces of soil in the garden, from which has
recently been cleared a heavy crop of Cabbage.
When these were thrown away the soil was
really too poor for grubs to exist in it, and the
liberal quantity of manure dug in just before
sowing was well incorporated with soot and
salt, and we have not the slightest doubt that
our Onion crop will have grown and been
matured before any pest has found its way into
the soil to any injurious extent.

Sowing. —Row after row is the best of all
ways of sowings Onions now. They should be
at least 12 inches from each other, and as soon
as the plants are large enough to draw for use
only those from spots where they are much too
close together should be taken. As time goes
on and transplanting time comes round in spring,
a regular thinning should take place, and the
plants should be left standing every 6 inches
or 8 inches apart in the rows. These will become
largest early in the season, and in the kitchen
will be found most useful with which to begin
the Onion season. C. A. M.

LIFTING AND STORING POTATOES.
From now onwards for the next two months
this is work which will require much atten¬
tion. Many midseason Potatoes are ripe now
and quite ready for lifting, but we cannot fix
on any day, week, or definite time for taking
them up, the main guide being the weather and
the condition of the soil. Of all mistakes made
in dealing with Potatoes none are greater than
working amongst them, and especially digging
them up when it is raining overhead or when the
soil is spongy under foot; and all who wish to
have their Potatoes in the best possible order
throughout the winter must have nothing to
do with them while in a M et state. We never
think of beginning to lift any of ours until a few
dry days have followed rain, and this plan
should be generally observed. In light, sandy
ground the tubers, a3 a rule, turn out clean and
free from any deposits of soil, even though the
latter may be moderately wet, but in heavy
land the soil will not fall away from them as it
should do unless tolerably dry. It is always an
advantage to have the tubers free from soil, but
this is not the only benefit to be derived from
dry digging, as, apart from the soil adhering to
them being very undesirable, a dirty Potato is
never easily dried, and while those dug up dry
and clean may generally be stored away the
day following their being lifted, the soil-covered
ones will take some days or a week to dry, and
then, unless the soil is rubbed off them before
storing, it is almost impossible to observe any
spots of disease or blemish on them ; conse¬
quently, those showing any defect are put past
with the sound ones, and many good ones are
caused to decay in this manner. If we put
away a lot of Potatoes which had been dug in
the wet, and only partially dried with a good
deal of soil about them, we would never feel
comfortable about their condition, as we would
know full well that they would soon begin to
decay, and that they would require much more
attention than the dry, clean-dug, and stored
ones. We would not feel satisfied unless the
first lot could be looked over a fortnight or so
after storing and again at frequent intervals,
but the dry ones would be safe for Meeks or
months to come.

In digging, M e M ould only choose fine dry days
for the operation. As many as possible should
| be taken up in the forenoon, bringing them well

to the surface, and spreading them out to dry
as digging w'ent on. Then in the afternoon they
should all be collected together, and covered
over on the ground so that rain cannot get at
them ; and it is better still if at the end of
each day they can be taken into an open shed,
and be spread out to dry there. In this case
much time will be saved, and the tubers may
always be had in the finest condition. In field
cultivation the plough is generally used for
digging ; but in the garden only the fork is
used, and nothing ansM'ers the purpose better,
as one man, or tM T o or three, as the case may be,
will dig a large quantity in a day or M'eek,
and M T ith the fork they can ahvays be taken up
without leaving any behind or injuring any of
the tubers. With careless digging many may be
left behind and not brought to the surface, and
others, and very often the biggest and best, will
have the prong of the fork run into them, but
this should never happen, nor M ill it either, if
ordinary care is observed in doing the work.
Some diggers pull up all the stems before
beginning to lift the roots, but this is a
thoroughly bad plan, as there is nothing left to •
guide them or make it knoM n M T here each set of
roots are, and the consequence is that an
innumerable quantity of them are split up and
spoiled with the fork. There is no better w ay
of dealing with them than pushing the fork in
behind each set and throM’ing it forward. A
few' inches must be allowed for the crowd of
tubers M'hich cluster near the base of the stems,
but this is easily understood. We do not like
to get right on the top of them M’ith the fork,
but prefer to see it going in a little from the
side. When a quantity has been dug up and
lie spread out on the surface of the soil, the
different batches should be selected. Unless
in a very poor Potato year, w r e do not put high
value on the smallest of the tubers, and use
them for little or nothing else but for pigs;
then a few of the nicest of the second size are
taken and put away by themselves for seed.

The main crop is then picked up to store away
for future use, and only the diseased roots
remain on the ground. These are considered of
no value, and may be taken up any time, but
we do not approve of allowing them to remain
on the soil or dug down either, as they are bad
for the soil in a decayed state, and if pieces of
them happen to live they prove a nuisance the
following year, as they grow up like M'eeds
amongst other crops, M'here they are not
wanted. This is the case, too, M'here many or
any tubers are left in the soil after digging, and
they cannot be too well looked after. In what¬
ever kind of place it may be convenient to dry
them, after digging they should never be put
aM'ay in their

Keeping Quarters until it is quite certain
they are thoroughly dry, and then there is no
danger of any great loss or deterioration taking
place. Here we dry them in an open shed, and
afterwards they are stored away in a dark
place, where air and light are only admitted in
very small quantities. It is an advantage to
have them dried and stored away as quickly as
possible, as M'hen left in the light for many days
they soon become green and badly flavoured.
Those we select for seed are not so carefully
dealt with in this respect, as w T e like to see
them green and hardy looking, and no effort is
made to keep them in the dark, but the plan of
allowing the seed to lie on the soil for days or
M'eeks, exposed to the hot sun, with the object
of “greening ” them, is not viewed M'ithfavour,
as we have often found tubers so treated injured
by the heat, and never so sound and good as
those kept in an open shed, loft, or some such
place. J- M. I

Pigs for fattening.— In selecting a pig to
fatten, it is w r ell to remember that fineness of
bone is rarely disappointing. A broad, dished
face, with snout short and turned up, indicates
an aptitude to fatten, and is one of the surest
indications of a good pig. No hog should have
bristles, as these have been bred away from all
the good breeds, and will not be tolerated at
present on any respectable farm, for they indi¬
cate coarseness, restlessness, and preponderance
of offal. He should not bie a squealer, nor should
hej bp restless. -He should eat quietly, and after
his hunger is appeased shouiid patiently lie
down, without even tmyellingarpuud his pen.

August 16, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

2?7

INDOOR PLANTS.

r EUCHARIS SANDERI.

This plant is likely to become a dangerous
rival of the popular E. grandiflora (amazonica).
The first flowers of it that opened in this country
were poor indeed compared with those which
the plant has since produced under good culture.

duced at different times, but the sorts now gene¬
rally grown have originated either in England
or in the United States of America. There are
no very striking points of difference between the
species except in the colour of their flowers and
in the leaves being glabrous or pilose ; they are
all branching, free-flowering shrubs, and bear
tubular flowers produced in terminal clusters.
Species and varieties. — The principal

The accompanying illustration, for which we species and varieties are B. triphylla, an old

are indebted to Mr. W. Bull, shows well the
character of the growth and the flower-spike,
but the flowers are considerably under-sized
compared w'ith those that have since been grown
in ftfr. Bull’s nur¬
sery at Chelsea,
and which are as
large as those ofE.
grandiflora. They
are pure white and
of wax-like tex¬
ture ; their distin¬
guishing charac¬
teristic is the ab¬
sence of a distinct
corona, which se¬
parates it at once
from both the
other species now
in cultivation. The
corona seems to
be fused with the
inner surface of
the perianth tube.

The umbels each
bear from five to
nine flowers, which
expand in quick
succession, and are
borne on suffici¬
ently long stalks
to be useful in a
cut state. Its con¬
stitution is said to
be hardier than
that of the old E.
grandiflora, and it
can be grown and
flowered success¬
fully in a much
lower temperature.

If such be the case,
it will be valuable,
as it could be
grown by those
who do not possess
a stove. It is very
distinct in foliage,
being hardly dis¬
tinguishable in
that respect from
Eurycles australa-
sica. The leaves
are large and some¬
what heart-shaped
strongly ribbed,
and pale green. It
is a native of the
United States of
Columbia.

inhabitant of our gardens, and one still
grown, but to a limited extent. Its leaves are
arranged in a trifoliate manner around the stem,
and are more or less hairy. The flowers are

BOUVARDIAS.

1 With in the last
few years or so the
popularity of the
different kinds of
Bouvardia has in-
reased ; here and
,ere at one time
solitary plant of
us genus might
ive been seen,

:t now it is no uncommon occurrence to find a
ase devoted entirely to Bouvardias, and that,
% in private gardens, while some of the large
“•de growlers produce them in enormous quan-
Ses, not only for decorative purposes in pots, but
i*> for supplying flowers in a cut state. The
icssoms possess a wide range of colour, and
•$3e of them are deliciously scented. They are
Produced freely on the small lateral shoots,
^cially after the removal of the terminal
'-fatter, and last, but not least, the plants flower

Eucharis Sander!, showing habit of growth and flower-stem (natural size).

throughout the winter,
treatment they may b

reason of the year. Bou 1 _ _

Mexico, whence a few' species have

small, but borne in moderate-sized clusters,
and bright vermilion in hue, a colour quite
equalled, if not surpassed, by the next, B. leiantha.
This greatly resembles the preceding, but is
more bushy in habit; the leaves are less hairy,
and it is altogether a better grower. B. Humboldti
and jasminoides are tw*o large white-flowered,
sweet-scented kinds belonging to the glabrous¬
leaved section. The first is much surpassed by
its variety—corymbiflora. B. flava differs in no
way from the ordinary type, except in the colour
of the flowers, which are deep yellow, and,
though borne in rather small clusters, are so
distinct that it is surprising it is notoftener seen
intro- i than it is. B. Roezli is in some respects the most

distinct of the whole, especially as regards its root
growth ; it forms a large underground root-stock
or tuber ; the leaves, too, are of a firmer texture
than those of any of the others. The flowers
are borne in flattened corymbs, but in colour
they vary somewhat from deep pink to carmine,
and at times have a violet shade. Among the
different hybrids or sports great variety exists,
and from amongst them I w r ould select the follow’-
ing as the best of the several sections that have
come under my observation.

Bright - coloured kinds. — Hogarth. —
Individual flowers rather small, but brilliant;
habit good, and one of the most vigorous in
constitution. Ele-
gans.—The flowers
of these are larger
than those of the
preceding, w'hich
in general charac¬
ter it greatly re¬
sembles. Unique.
—Deep violet-car-
mine ; the outside
of the tube pure
white ; unlike any
other variety; said
to be a seedling
from B. Roezli, but
without the tube¬
rous-like roots pos¬
sessed by that kind.
Dazzler. — With¬
out doubt a very
fine kind and one
not yet known to
the extent which
its merits deserve,
but from the quan¬
tities of it in the
hands of some of
the best known
growers it will
soon become more
common. It is of
good habit, very
floriferous, the
clusters of flowers
being large, and in
colour deep car¬
mine rose.

White Flowers.
—Humboldti co¬
rymbiflora differs
from the type in
the size of its clus¬
ters of flow'ers,
w'hich measure
over 2 inches long.
This kind is taken
to Covent Garden
Market in great
quantities during
winter both in the
form of plants and
in that of cut
flowers, the latter
being great favour¬
ites w'ith bouquet -
ists, and from
their size frequent¬
ly used singly.
The club - shaped
buds arealso strik¬
ing, and, more¬
over, the flow'ers
are sweet scented.
B. jasminoides lon-
gipetala is distin¬
guished from the
species by the
greater length of
its petals, but both
are alike first-class kinds. The leaves of these
white-flow'ered varieties are dark green and
glabrous, but in the following they are
hairy ; the flowers are smaller, nearly scentless,
and borne in more compact clusters. They com¬
prise Bridal Wreath, Vreelandi, and Davidsoni,
the last specially interesting, as being the
variety from w'hich the double-flowered Alfred
Neuner was obtained. The different

Shades of Pink are represented by Queen
of Roses, Maiden’s Blush, and Rosea oculata, a
remarkably floriferous kipd; indeed, it w'ill
frequen tly continue to flower till qui te exhausted.
It is of a deep flesh colour, with a darker eye.
The latest addition to this is Priory Beauty,

278

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 16, 1884.

sent out by Messrs. Veitch last year, and likely
when better known to become one of the most
popular of the pale-tinted flowered sorts. It is
of free, yet compact growth, an abundant
bloomer, and both the individual flowers and
clusters arc large compared with those of many
others. Colour a soft pink.

The pale sulphur coloured flavescens stands
out distinct from all the others. It is said to
be a hybrid between the deeper tinted flavaand
one of the white varieties, and the colour would
certainly suggest such an origin.

Double-flowered varieties are at present
confined to the two here figured. Apart from
the consideration as to whether a single or a
double flower is the moro beautiful, the doubles
certainly have one great point in their favour,
and that is the blossoms remain longer in per¬
fection than those of single kinds, and where
employed in arrangements of cut flowers they
do not drop as the single sorts are somewhat
liable to do. The double white (Alfred Neuner)
was sent out by Messrs. Nanz and Neuner, of
Louisville, Kentucky, in the spring of 1881, and
was first shown in flower in this country at a
meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society
held at South Kensington in the following
summer, and since then it has steadily advanced
in popular favour. Concerning the propagation
of this variety a good deal has been written, it
being contended by some that only cuttings
made of the leading shoots retained their
double-flowered character, and that the small
side branches, if struck, reverted to the single
form. My experience, however, is that there
is no hard and fast rule to be laid down in this
respect; as it originated from a sport, its
character is not thoroughly fixed, and therefore
cuttings will occasionally bear single flowers,
let them be taken from whatever part of the
plant one likes, although the stronger shoots
are less liable to become single than the weak
ones. Plants propagated from root cuttings I
find to be very untrustworthy in this respect,
but in cuttings of young shoots taken from
healthy plants cases of reversion are so few in
numbers as to be of little moment. In the
winter of 1881, having a large number of this
Bouvardia in flower, I selected two or three,
the blossoms of which were more or less tinged
with pink and propagated from them, the result
being that they maintained that character, but
in the depth of hue they were before long sur¬
passed by another importation from the States.
B. President Garfield is, strictly speaking, a
pink counterpart of A. Neuner, and one liable
to sport at times, as amongst those I have
flowered some are of a much brighter hue than
others. Both these Bouvardias are undoubtedly
destined to become very popular.

Propagation. —Bouvardias are readily pro¬
pagated by means of cuttings if skilfully chosen.
The most satisfactory way to set about the work
is as follows : After flowering keep them some¬
what dryer than before,; then early in February
place them in a gentle heat where they can
be occasionally syringed, and where a moist
growing atmosphere can be maintained. The
. result of this will be that young shoots will be
produced from all parts of the plant, and if
these arc taken off as soon as large enough, and
while they arc still succulent, they will root as
easily as Verbena cuttings. Care must, how¬
ever, be taken during the operation that they do
not flag to any great extent, to prevent which a
propagating case must be used to keep them close
till rooted. As a rule, if they have a thorough
watering when first put in, and if the case is
moist, they will require but little more until
they have struck root. It is necessary, however,
to guard against too much moisture, otherwise
they may damp off. Root cuttings are not much
employed. In order to strike them, all that is
necessary is to cut the stouter roots into pieces
about an inch long, and insert them perpendicu¬
larly in pots or pans of sandy soil, keeping them
close till young shoots are produced from the
top portion of the roots after the manner of
seedlings. In cutting up the roots lay the upper
parts all in one direction ; otherwise, if the
pieces become mixed, it is nearly impossible to
distinguish the upper from the lower portions,
and in that case the chances are that some will
be put in in a revprs^ position. Tho roots should
be inserted deepljr enough to ha «prer»d with soib
^Culture.— wVerfl tul floWgra \k>

in a low house or frame, which can be heated at
pleasure. In this way Bouvardias grow more
quickly than in pots, and yield a proportionately
large amount of bloom. Young plants to be
grown thus are potted off as soon as struck,
given one shift, and then planted out. The
soil should bo moderately light—say one-third
leaf-mould to two-thirds of loam, or one-half
of each according to the consistency of the loam.
After this is done maintain a close growing
atmosphere until they have started away freely,
and when in full growth they will be benefited
by a little manure water. They should be
gradually hardened, so that by the middle of
summer the lights may be removed altogether,
and only put on in case of heavy and long
continued rains. Thus by the end of August
they will have well ripened their wood, and
will be ready under an increased temperature
to burst into bloom, when if kept at from
55 degs. to 65 degs. during winter they will
maintain a continual supply of cut flowers. The
planting-out system is also followed by many
for the production of bushy plants, to be potted
up in autumn in the same way in which
Solan urns, Chrysanthemums, and similar sub¬
jects are done. For this purpose they should
be planted out about the beginning of June,
and though they will grow in the open in
summer without any protection, yet it is desir¬
able to have them in a frame, as in that case
the lights can be put over them when required.
The middle of September is a good time in
which to lift and pot them, operations which
should be done carefully. When potted they
must be kept close and warm for a few days
till they recover from the check received ; after
that all that is necessary is to keep up a tempe¬
rature of from 55 degs. to 65 degs., or even a
few degrees higher, in order to maintain a
supply of flower throughout the winter. The
method followed by growers for Co vent Garden
Market, and certainly the most satisfactory for
the production of small plants, is to confine
them always to pots, treating them much in the
same way as regards potting, stopping, &c., as
Fuchsias, except as respects the increased heat
during autumn and winter.

Summer flowering. —There is no difficulty
in obtaining a supply of Bouvardia flowers
throughout the summer months if the plants
have not been allowed to exhaust themselves
previously. My attention was first directed to
this by a number of the scarlet Hogarth that
did not flower much in the winter, but on being
planted in the open ground when the sehson
was sufficiently advanced, produced a great
quantity of blossoms throughout the summer
months, when, though flowers are plentiful,
such chaste subjects are always valuable. The
white Humboldti corymbiflora also flowers well
in this way ; and last spring, having some small
plants of Alfred Neuner, I potted them on, and
placed them in an intermediate house, with the
result that they grew away freely, and by June
were in full flower. It will thus be seen that
the Bouvardia readily adapts itself to the diffe¬
rent circumstances under which it may be
placed. _ H. P.

FRUIT.

_ . »no are re

quired a common and success® mode of culture I flowers for which tin 1

5«i fr> nlnnf w*- * » «* nrnnarnd bed of Soil either ! H. P.

Dwarf double flowered Pelargo
niums.—About a couple of years ago there
were sent from the Continent two double flowered
zonal Pelargoniums entirely different from any
others in cultivation, and greatly resembling
each other except in colour. They are both very
dwarf and much branched kinds, forming dense
clusters of foliage of 6 inches or 8 inches in
height. Their flowers are borne in the greatest
profusion on stalks just long enough to raise them
clear of the foliage, so that a plant of either kind
presents a bouquet of bloom. One with mottled
salmon coloured flowers is named Comtesse de
Tannberg, and the other, which has rosy lilac
flowers, Princesse Stephanie. As pot plants for
conservatory decoration these two Pelargoniums
are very beautiful, and from their extreme
floriferousness they might be used for bedding,
but for such a purpose I have not tried them.
They are also valuable for use as cut flowers,
as, if supplied with a little stimulating manure,
successional blooms quickly succeed those picked
off, and a few plants yield during the season a
great quantity of cut flowers. The blooms, too,
not being so large and lumpy as those of other
doublo kinds, may be u <1 in arrangements of
orts arc unfitted.—

Planting and clearing Strawberry
plots. —Strawberries are, perhaps, as easily
grown as any fruit of equal value that we have
under cultivation, but for all that their culture
it not always of the best description. First,
they should never be allowed to continue on the
same ground beyond the third season—two only
is our rule—and new plots should be made from
runners taken off as early in the season as pos¬
sible, for, by early planting of the earliest
runners, a grand crop of fruit is a certainty the
following season. Ours are now ready to plant;
they have been taken from plants a few of
which were purposely reserved for their produc¬
tion, the flowers having been taken on. We
thus not only get early plants, but can gather
the fruit from the main plots in comfort, not
having the destruction of runners before our
eyes, simply because our plants have been pre¬
viously secured. Plant in the richest ground at
command, and, above all, plant firmly. Old
plots that have been cleared of fruit ought at
once to be freed from runners and dried-up
foliage—no other. The surface soil should be
stirred, and afterwards be given a good dressing
of manure, and beyond keeping the ground clear
of weeds nothing else will be needed for a very
long time. For autumn fruiting no plan equals
that of planting out of the earliest forced plants.
These, if the flowers be kept picked off till the
end of July, will produce really good fruit from
the middle of September till destroyed by frost.
The only good variety for this purpose is
Vicomtesse Htlricart de Thury.—W. W.

Varieties of Strawberries.— The best
kinds of Strawberries to grow for outdoor work
are Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury, President,
Sir Charles Napier, Sir J. Paxton, British
Queen, and Elton Pine, all of which ripen in the
order they are placed. As most of these are
strong growers, they should not be planted
nearer than 2£ feet row from row, and 18 inches
or 20 inches from plant to plant, that sun and
air may be freely admitted amongst them to
colour and finish off the fruit.

11794. — Strawberries in frames.— If
runners were planted in Cucumber frames now
they would not fruit next winter, unless the
frames could be treated by hot water pipes ;
without heat the fruit might be ready to gather
some time in May. To have Strawberries ripe
in February and March, runners of Black
Prince or some other early variety must be
layered in pots about the end of June or early
in July. They should be introduced into a
warm house about the end of November, and
be grown on through the winter on a shelf
close to the glass.—J. D. E.

- Strawberries will yield good fruit in

frames ; better, indeed, if well cared for, than in
the open air, but they must be grown out-doors
all the summer. Young plants should be set out
in March a foot apart in good ground, and these
will grow into large plants by the autumn. But
summer plants may be used, the only difference
being that more of them will be necessary. The
soil in the frames should be fine and not too
rich, or the plants run too much to leaf. About
the middle of October plant them in the frame,
some 8 inches apart if they have three or four
crowns, but 4 inches apart will be enough for
single crowns. Keep the lights on through the
winter, but give air in mild weather. In spring
shut up early in the afternoon on fine days, anti
cover when the nights are cold.—J. C. B.

11798.—Best Strawberries and Rasp
berries. —We have found the following Straw¬
berries succeed well in our light, gravelly
garden soil, and the names are given in succes¬
sion :—Black Prince, Keen’s Seedling, President,
British Queen, Frogmorc (late Prince), and
Loxford Hall Seeding. It is not necessary to
grow many varieties of Raspberries. Fastolf
and Carter’s Prolific are two good varieties.
The Y'ellow Antwerp is a good kind of its
colour.—J. D. E.

- Three good constitutional kinds are

President, Sir Joseph Paxton, and the old
Princess Alice Maude, and which are more
likely than any other varieties J know to
thrive on a light soil. They are, moreover, of

igp^,(|uality,--nape ctally the two first-named,
TwcHroe tends of liaanberry are Carter’s Pro

lifin anrl "Rftiimfnrf.Vi’o Saarllinn l;i.;r!:.nn.rnr-il

AtioOST 16, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

279

resisting drought well. To grow Strawberries
well on light soil the ground should be well
stirred to a depth of at least 18 inches. Before
planting roll or tread the surface as hard as
possible, and plant with a trowel in October.
Early in March hoe amongst the plants, and
mulch with manure. In hot weather give an
occasional watering, and keep all runners picked
off, and they will make line plants by autumn.
-J. C. B.

11796.— Vines not fruiting.— There is no
reason why the vines should not fruit well in
such a border as that alluded to in this question.
They ought to make strong growths, and when
that is the case they are sure to fruit well. If
the vines were planted out of the pots without
uncoiling the roots, that w’ould be a reason why
they did not make good growth. If that is the
case it would be better to lift them, and either
replant or put in new vines. —J. D. E.

lisoo.—Fruit trees for north border.— Apple
trees like sun, and they would not succeed well in a north
border. Raspberries and Gooseberries succeed well in such
a position. The Gooseberry season is greatly prolonged by
planting some late sorts on a north border.—J. D. E.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 259 .)

Management of Fruiting Vines.

As regards the period of time which should
elapse before young vines will bear a full crop,
very much depends upon the treatment they
have received. In a good light house, with
liberal treatment— i. e ., feeding well with liquid
manure and using highly concentrated stimulants
—■vines struck from eyes in January will bear a
good crop of fruit the next year. The young
vines are led up to the top of the house ana
then stopped, and not allowed to proceed any
further, all laterals being pinched back to
one leaf. Very substantial canes, capable of
carrying from fifteen to twenty pounds of fruit,
can be grown in one season if all things are well
done. It is true most people are contented
to wait a longer period for a full crop the whole
length of the rafter, saying, and in many in¬
stances wdth truth, that if you crop a young
vine, or work a young horse, too soon, it must
be at the expense of the'future. Some are wil¬
ling to discountthe future, and, in the case of any
plant so easily and quickly raised and grown to a
fruiting size as the Grape vine is, there is not
much risk to run. At any rate hundreds who
build vineries are anxious to have fruit from
them as soon as possible. Where young fruit¬
ing canes are provided a crop may be had the
same season as the house is built, if built
early in the year, but, without incurring
this' expense, I have shown that a good
crop may be taken the second year, whilst
the safe and cautious people will probably prefer
to wait for a full crop till the third year, meantime
taking a few bimehes from the bottom the second
year. An old friend, a successful Grape
grower, always allowed his young vines to
grow freely the first year, and then cut them
hack to within a foot of the bottom of the
rafter ; and led up a rod, which bore a heavy
crop the next year, the whole length of the
I rafter. The old-fashioned way is to cut back
I to within 4 feet or so of the bottom at the end
I of the first year, and take three or four bunches
I of Grapes from the bottom eyes. A further
I instalment of growth is made next year, and
§ the whole house filled up the year following.
. It will thus be seen it is a cultivator’s question
' altogether. If we like to go in for high feeding
uid take pains with the roots to keep touch of
hem—if I may so term it—it does not signify
nnch when or how the crop is taken. If we
iosscss the knowledge and ability to produce
prong canes of sufficient strength to bear a full
?op, and can by maturation lay up the
unches in the eyes or biuls in autumn, it is as
*rtain as anything not yet accomplished can
veil be, that in tne spring, when the leaves
aifold, these bunches will also appear, and that
sy judicious feeding—by, in short, giving the
aeceasary support—the Grapes will in due time
ripen.

The Early Forcing op Grapes.

To have ripe Grapes in May, forcing should
begin in November. jifTlune will btj early
enough, then forcing nfcyb^l|f la *4^ljiitt\he
beginning of the new y&xr. if or th^jfiTsrten
dayn simply shutting r.p ;he house airakeeping

the atmosphere moist with the syringe will be
sufficient; the inside borders should be examined,
and, if necessary, which it probably will be,
a good soaking of tepid manure water should
be given. If the vines are young, the rods
should be bent back and laid along the front of
the house, but as soon as the buds burst forth
the rods must be tied up in their places. If
they break sluggishly, take hold of the sleepy
vine rod at the extreme end and twist it as one
would a rope until the pressure is felt its
whole length. This, in every case on which
I have tried it, liberates the sap, by render¬
ing more flexible the cells and tissues of
the stem or branch. At the jend of ten days or
a fortnight after the house has been closed, the
fire should be lighted, the night temperature at
this period to be from 50 to 55 degs., with an
advance of 10 degs. in the daytime, from fire
heat. When the sun shines the thermometer
may run up to 80 degs., or even higher with a
moist atmosphere. Unless there are plants in
the house, very little ventilation will be required
until the vines break ; the main object should be
to surround the stems and buds of the vines with
a moist atmosphere at a genial growing tempera¬
ture. Sometimes the stems are enclosed in Moss,
which is frequently syringed, to keep the vines
almost constantly moist; but though this is
useful in some cases it need not be, indeed is
not, generally practised. As a rule, most vines
yield readily to heat and moisture when
steadily continued. I have occasionally, when
the buds refused to move quickly enough,
increased the night temperature to 60 degs., or
even 65, and then dropped off again a little
when the requisite impulse had been given.
Once I had a lot of pot vines I wanted to get in
early in a low pit, and as they did not move
soon enough to my liking, I matted up the pit,
and kept the interior warm and moist till the
buds started, which was in a very short time,
when, of course, the temperature was dropped
to its proper condition. Temperature and
ventilation are most important matters in
Grape forcing. Regularity in all things has
great value. After growth fairly begins all
extremes should be avoided. When the leaves
are unfolding the night temperature may be
kept as near 60 degs. as circumstances will
permit, and though in cold, windy weather
there may be a little fluctuation, there should
be no difficulty in keeping it steadily at
60 degs., or thereabouts. When the bunches
show, the temperature should be increased
to 65 degs., which in the case of Ham-
burghs and Sweetwaters will be found high
enough, and no harm will happen if the tem¬
perature falls to 60 degs. in the morning, at
which time the lowest point will be reached.
It will not be wise to follow any particular
rule in the application of moisture. Every
person in charge of a vinery should think and
observe closely, using his own common sense ;
and he will soon come to see that, if he keeps a
nice genial growing atmosphere in the house,
it matters but little when the house is damped
down, or if on some days it be not damped at
all. Head gardeners lay down a general rule
for their young men to follow—that the houses
should be damped when they are closed in the
afternoon at half-past three or four o’clock, but
there is, or should always be, a proviso that on
dull, sunless days, or if the atmosphere in the
house appears pleasantly genial on entering,
there should be only a very slight sprinkle,
if any.

Covering the Borders.

Where the vinery is for Grapes and nothing
else, a moist, genial atmosphere can easily
be created by building up a bed of manure aud
leaves in the house on the border, and turning
it frequently. This was a very common plan
in old times ; but modern gardeners generally
have their vineries full of plants all the winter,
aud cannot afford to run any risk with them,
for it must be borne in mind that if the manure
is not thrown together and fermented a little
before it be taken into the house, the gasfes
which are generated by fermentation will destroy
vegetable life if in active growth. But in all
cases, both the inside and outside borders should
be mulched for the purpose of encouraging the
roots to keep near the surface. Aud as roots
cannot live and perform their work without
moisture, the only chance of keeping the roots
in the upper str. ;inr of soil is to keep them
mulched ire. But any soil, if

mulched constantly, will become pasty and sour,
and once a year (in the case of forced vines this
should be done after the fruit is ripe) the mulch
should be taken away, and the border loosened
up with a fork, to let in the air to sweeten
it. Before forcing begins, a light top-dressing
of whatever artificial stimulant is used should
be sprinkled over the borders, which should
then be covered with leaves mixed with suffi¬
cient manure to hold the leaves together and
prevent their blowing away. This covering
should be looked upon rather as a coat to keep
the warmth in the border which is already
there, than to impart any warmth to it by its
own fermentation. I have seen very wonderful
results follow the use of fermenting materials
on vine borders, but there is a danger in their
use, as it is very difficult to keep the temperature
regular in degree, and as healthy viues will pro¬
duce good Grapes without artificial heat in a
well drained border properly protected, there
seems no necessity to make a hotbed on the
vine border, and the idea of warming a vine
border artificially with hot water pipes never
met with much favour from practical men, from
the kndwn dangers which attend their use.

Disbudding.

All healthy vigorous vines will produce more
shoots than can or should be laid in, and these
should be removed as soon as the shoots showing
the best bunches can he distinguished. These
latter should be regularly placed along the rods
at intervals of not less than 12 to 16 inches.
They are often left much nearer, but it, is a
mistake, as one handsome bunch of Grapes is of
more value than two of inferior quality, and the
leaves, if they are to do their work well, must
have breathing room.

Stopping and Tying.

Many good cultivators stop when the shoots
have made one leaf beyond the bunch, but
where there is space for their perfect develop¬
ment I think two are better. The stopping
should take place as soon as the leaves can be
seen. It is a waste of strength to leave the
shoots to extend and then cut hack. In dealing
with the laterals, which, in the case of young
vigorous vines, will be constantly starting forth,
the common practice is to stop to one leaf and
allow no further advance, and, as a rule, this is
very sound practice. The one leaf and bud will
keep the main buds from breaking and act as a
safety valve in the case of exuberant vigour.
There are cases, when the root action is sluggish,
where it may be wise, to depart from the rule
laid down, and permit a little more lateral
growth to waken up the roots and stimu¬
late them to greater exertion. Tying down
the shoot to the wires may seem to
the uninitiated a very simple matter, but
it requires great care and patience to get
all tied down in their places without a mis¬
hap. Scarcely any of the shoots will bear
to be drawn down to the wires all at once. A
string of matting should be fastened loosely
round the branch about the middle of its length,
and drawing the shoot down carefully, as much
as it will bear at the time, fasten the matting
to the wire, and so on each shoot in succession
till all are secured. In a few days the whole
may be gone through again, and on this occa¬
sion perhaps they all may be drawn down to
the trellis. If too much pressure is brought to
bear the shoots will split off, and an unsightly
blank be left, hence the necessity for doing the
work tentatively.

Watering Inside Borders.

Taking 30 inches as the average rainfall of the
country, anyone may, in his own mind, make a
rough calculation whether nature or himself is
the most liberal paymaster. If we erect a
building over a piece of land, and plant a tree or
trees therein, it is incumbent on us to see that
those living things we have immured have drink
enough. It is true if they are not supplied with
what they require they will help themselves
from some other perhaps unwholesome source,
which will in the course of a short time dis¬
organise their growth. The only chance of
keeping healthy roots near the surface is to keep
the soil moist, not only when the vines are in
active growth, but at all times. Of course less
will be required in the short days than during
the growing season in spring and summer. But
not only will inside borders require liberal
supplies of water, but the roots outside, if they

280

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 16, 1884.

are to be kept near the surface in dry hot
weather, must have water. To avoid making
mistakes, every person having charge of vineries
should make himself acquainted with the con¬
struction and constitution of the borders. With¬
out we possess this knowledge it is difficult to
know when and how to water. It is, of course,
possible to injure the borders by over-watering,
by washing the fertility out of the soil; but I
imagine, so far as regards inside borders, this is
a rare case. It is necessary, in watering borders
of forcing-houses, to take the chill off the water
before using it. Cold water tends to lower the
temperature of protected borders, but heated
water, if even only slightly done, raises the tem¬
perature of the soil. A well-drained border is not
easily or often over-watered ; but if too much
water passes through it the character of the
soil is injured. This question is closely allied
to the application of stimulants in the shape of
artificial manures. I think more might be done
with guano, or Clay’s fertilizer, or Standen’s,
or Amies’s manures, or anything else of a like
nature. I don’t w'ant to set one manufac¬
turer before another, as probably all these
stimulants have good qualities, and plants
like a change of diet. The proper supply
of atmospheric moisture is more important
than even the watering of the border, im¬
portant though that be. In the early season,
before the vines break, the syringe is the
implement commonly employed, but when the
leaves unfold, unless we are very sure of the
purity of the water, syringing should cease, and
the supply of moisture be given by damping the
paths, walls, borders, &c. In forcing, closing
early of an afternoon on a bright day gives us
an opportunity of thoroughly damping the
house, and giving an immense push to the
young growths. Shutting up the sun’s rays in
the house and keeping them there as long as
possible is the very essence of economical
forcing, but when we close early we must create
a genial atmosphere, or we shall fill the house
full of insects. Most of the growth, or at least
the elongation or lengthening out of the young
wood, takes place at night, and this growth is
consolidated by the sun’s warmth in the day¬
time ; and it is easy to tell the growth made
during a dull, damp time by the length of the
joints. If red spider makes his appearance,
the best way to deal with him, if taken in time,
is to shut the house up early some warm after¬
noon, and fill the atmosphere full of moisture,
and keep up a state of saturation for a couple
of hours, or until the temperature falls below
70 degs.

Night and Day Temperatures.

It may be taken as a general rule that we
shall not go far wrong if we successfully imitate
natural conditions. In the open air the swelling
of the buds is a gradual process, and usually
the healthiest growth is made after a sharp
winter, with the spring somewhat backward,
but where no times of cold east wind intervenes ;
where, in fact, the progress is unchecked from
the first opening of the buds, starting at a night
temperature of 50 degs., with a rise of 10 or 15
degs. at midday, and gradually rising to 60 or
65 degs. when the fruit is setting, is a safe,
steady-going course. Some rapid forcers start
at once at 60 degs., and deluge the place with
moisture, with the view of forcing growth at
once. In some cases this is a good plan, as it
enables us to give a longer period of rest. It is
like allowing a person to lie in bed till the last
moment, and then pull him out and give no time
for rubbing his eyes, but push him into the
battle at once. Good results are obtained
this way, and probably in the future more will
adopt it. It is as well to know something about
the character of the vines before we decide
which course to follow, as severe forcing may
perhaps run weakly vines out; and some will
say better to get rid of them and start afresh,
or else lift and replant. I shall have something
further to say about the renovation of old vines
in a future chapter. I will only add now that
vines are more manageable in this respect than
any other fruit—Pines excepted—and I am not
sure that I need except any, for I have seen
vines pulled out with the lack of care which is
generally bestowed upon things we intend
destroying, and after they had laid upon the
rubbish heap for a week a sudden whim or a
change of mind caused the vin^s to be-jplanted
in boxes, in a ; h boxes

containing the roots OBing encloagTiiin a bed of

leaves, and that same season a good crop of
well-coloured Grapes was gathered in June.

Thinning Grapes.

Early Grapes need not be thinned quite so
much as late ones are. The latter are expected
to hang for some time after ripening, and
mouture may probably lodge among the berries
if left too thick in the centre of the bunch.
Thinning Grapes, like many other matters in
gardening, can only be done really well by those
who have had some experience of the vines in
question. There is so much difference in con¬
stitution, and vigour is such a variable quality,
and the size to which the berries may attain
depends so much upon condition, that until
some knowledge has been acquired the culti¬
vating must to a certain extent be working in
the dark. It is true that there are indications
which are known to the man of large experience
which enables him to tell what the coming
crop will be, and this same experience also
guides him in the application of the right kind
of stimulant to use to supply what is lacking in
the border. Thinning the berries should be
done as soon as it can be seen which berries are
taking the lead in the bunch. Some always get
an advantage of the others. And it is best to leave
those and cut out the weakly ones, and such as
have thin stalks. In pretty well all cases with
large-berried Grapes, such as Black Hamburgs
and Buckland’s Sweetwater, two-thirds of the
berries may be cut out. In no case should two
bunches be left on one shoot or branch, for
one good bunch will be of more value than two
inferior ones, and that is what it will come to if
overcropping is indulged in, and leaving two
bunches upon one branch may be safely called
overcropping. Great care should be used in
thinning the berries, for the skin of the Grape
in its young state is very delicate and shows
the least touch, sometimes in the form of rust
on the outer cuticle, which clings to the berries
all through their growth and afterwards does
not depart from them. The berries should not
be handled, especially by those having sweaty
hands, neither should they be touched with
the hair or cap or anything warm ; in fact,
to have the Grapes in the highest pos¬
sible condition they should not be touched at
all. A small bit of smooth stick may be taken
in the left hand, and the scissors in the right.
The little stick can be used to elevate shoulders
or parts of the bunch to bring it into position
for the right hand with the scissors to operate
upon. Sometimes a clean soft kid glove is used
on the left hand.

Colour and Flavour.

These are usually linked together when the
fruit is in perfect condition. If one is absent or
only imperfectly represented the others are
generally deficient. For instance, if there is
good colour and bloom there is nearly always
very fine flavour, because the presence of colour
and bloom denotes high finish, and flavour is

Sresent as a matter of course. The word “ con-
ition ” as applied to man or animal is a very
expressive term, and is as full of meaning when
applied to plants. Condition as applied to
vines means perfect health ; but a vine may be
in perfect condition and yet the Grapes may
lack colour and bloom if unskilfully treated.
To put colour on Black Grapes requires a
buoyant atmosphere night and day. To
meet this want, as soon as the first
berry begins to change, the night venti¬
lation is increased, using a little more fire
heat at first to prevent any sudden drop in
the temperature. Black Grapes will lay on
colour and bloom under a dense covering of
foliage ; indeed, they do not colour well without
a fair screen of leaves to shelter them from the
fierce rays of the sun. On the other hand, what
are called White Grapes seem to require ex¬
posure to the sun to get that glowing amber
tint so much desired. The bloom of Black
Grapes is the most difficult thing to define,
though it may be summed up in the one word
“finish.” No one can say this or that par¬
ticular mode of treatment has produced it; and
when displaced (which a mere touch will do)
nothing can restore it again.

E. Hobday.

The Tiger Lily.— We omitted to state that the engrav¬
ing of the Tiger Lily given in Gardening last week was the
white variety, and not the bettor known scarlet kind.

BOSES.

Autumn Roses. —Considering the value of a
good autumnal Rose bloom, I think at this season
we scarcely give that attention to the plants
that we ought to do. This neglect is, no doubt,
due to the feeling that the Rose season being
past, it is useless to trouble further about the
plants, a fallacy that does not deserve a
moment’s consideration, except it be as to how
quickly one can get rid of it. This should be
effected by at once cutting off all bad flowers and
stems, shortening back lanky shoots, destroying
Brier suckers, and then having the beds or
borders well soaked with manure water, or, in
lieu thereof, giving them a good dressing
of artificial manure and watering it in; such
labour will quickly be repaid by a healthy, vigo¬
rous growth, and a bloom scarcely second to that
in June, whilst as to succession of flowers, it will
be a long way in advance of it.

The old pink China Rose. —This is nearly
always in flower, and at this season of the year
the buds are beautiful. It does not require
much pruning or training. The shelter of a
wall seems to suit it admirably. The best
plants are generally found against old-fashioned
thatched cottages, where the eaves project to
keep off cold, rain, and snow. In such positions,
where the roots are not often disturbed, I have
seen well-furnished plants as much as 8 feet to
9 feet high. It is a good border Rose, too, but
does not attain to so large a size in such situa- i
tions as against a wall. Planted in good mellow i

soil, well drained, and the plants not dug i
amongst, but well mulched instead with old
manure or leaf-mould, a good mass of this Rose
would be a sight worth seeing. It is very easily
propagated by means of cuttings struck under \
hand-lights.—H. 3

- (

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK. . ’ t
Glasshouses.

Climbers. —The finest winter blooming green- 4

house creepers are unquestionably the Lapa-
gerias, and, where these are infested with scale ^
or aphis, measures should at once be taken to >
rid them of these pests before the plants get
into full flower. Keep them thoroughly moist
at the root during the time they are producing
their flowers, and allow them to hang in a free
and graceful manner from the rafters or other
supports. Plants of Habrothamnus, Plumbago,
and similar creepers must be kept clean at the
present season if a long display of blossom ia
expected from them.

1 Pelargoniums. —The season is at hand for
propagating a stock of zonal [and other Pelar¬
goniums that are required for an early display
next season. Avoid over-crowding them in the
cutting-pots, as they soon get sappy and weak.

The best plan with these or any others intended
for pot culture is to insert the cuttings singly
in small pots ; this gives them ample room, and
they soon form dwarf stocky plants, furnished
with foliage to the rims of the pots.

Ferns. —Many Ferns will now begin to show
signs of having made their full growth for the
present season. Do not therefore attempt to
force them again into activity, as few plants
are more benefited than Ferns by having a long
season of rest. Keep the whole stock moist at
the root, and allow no insect pests to gain a
footing upon them.

Cyclamens that have been somewhat at rest
during the summer, and w’hich have now com-
menced growing, should be repotted, removing
all the old soil and replacing it with new
material. Some prefer a peaty soil, others
loam and leaf-mould, with some manure added
in all cases, using sand enough to keep it suffi¬
ciently open ; pot moderately firm, and do not
give them too much room (an 8-inch pot will
be found of sufficient size for a very large root). ’
After potting put them in a frame or pit, and
keep them a little close, sprinkling them over- .
head in the afternoons of warm days. Keep a.
constant eye upon them, in order to see that
they do not become affected with greenfly, to
which they are very liable ; it gets unobserved
on the under sides of the leaves, and frequently
before it is noticed so injures them as to do
Jidiiou^mifcchief to the plants!, especially whilst
the leaves are young. Fumigating or dipping j
will rid them of this iusect.

August 16, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

281

Balsams.— Push on the last batch of these
by closing early, after giving them a good
syringing ; and, in order to keep them dwarf
and stocky they should be kept thin, and well
up to the glass, so as to admit plenty of
light amongst them. Such sportive plants
as Balsams are sure to show great variety both
in the colour, size, and quality of the flowers ;
and to keep up a high standard of excellence
with these, it is necessary to make selections of
the best and most distinct to be set away from
the others for the purpose of bearing seed.

Coleuses. —These may be grown up so
quickly that it is never worth while wintering
any but very small plants or cuttings of them,
which should now ha put in for that purpose.
They will strike readily in any shady place in
the greenhouse under bell-glasses or hand-lights,
put on to keep the air from them for a few days,
when they can either be potted off singly, or
kept in their cutting pots on a light shelf till
the turn of the year.

Flower Garden.

Chrysanthemums. —After the roots have got
fairly hold of the soil in their flowering pots
they should receive strong manure water every
other time they are watered. They will bear it
as strong as any plant in cultivation. The
Mushroom-shaped style of training is the most
in favour with those who grow them for exhibi¬
tion, but it is unnatural and useless for general
decorative purposes. Plants of the larger varie¬
ties, confined to from five shoots each, neatly
tied to a stick, the head of the plant brought
out to about twice or thrice the diameter of the
pots they occupy, will be found the most useful,
and this will give them ample room for the de¬
velopment of their foliage, which, if they are
well-grown, will be of the darkest green. As
the shoots of the large kinds branch out in
growth, they should be thinned to the number
of flowers the plants are intended to carry,
leaving one flower to each shoot. The plants
will carry from six to eighteen according to
their strength. To those who have not tried
this thinning process it may appear a great
sacrifice in quantity ; but either for cutting or
for decoration on the plant, one good flower is
worth three inferior ones, and flowers so treated
will last fresh on the plant fully a third longer
than others that have been insufficiently thinned.
The Pompones also require thinning, but not so
much as the largo varieties, neither in the re¬
duction of the number of shoots nor in the
number of flowers each shoot will oarry ; these
may be left from three to half-a-dozen to each
terminal shoot.

Pansies. —Still continue to put in cuttings,
*nd prepare compost in which to pot those
plants that are intended to flower in pots.
Good yellow turfy loam with a fourth part of
rotten cow manure, as much leaf-mould, and
*>me sharp silver sand forms a good compost
for them. Look the loam over carefully for
wireworms or any other larvte which it may
contain. There is also a white maggot or grub
in the cow manure which injures the plants, and
which should also be searched for. Seeds sown
now on a piece of well worked soil will vegetate
freely, and produce plants that will flower
early next season. We need not say that the
seed should be selected from the best flowers
only—those that combine size, form, and sub¬
stance with rich decided colours.

Bulbs. —All kinds of spring-flowering bulbs
will soon be forming roots, and if intended for
removal, that should be done at once, as they
are not good subjects to move when in full
growth, tne roots being brittle and easily broken.
It is, therefore, better to either keep them out
;f the soil until they can be finally planted in
.ositions in which they are to flower, or to put
lem in pots or shallow boxes from which they
an be transferred at any time without much
iamage if started in light soil or Cocoa fibre,
'ow is a good time to select bulbs for spring
fewer beds, in which they will flower well during
ie early months of the year ; in all cases pur-
Juse early, as the first comers get the pick of
3e bulbs, and the finest bulbs yield thestrougest
Wer-spikes.

Shrubberies.

Walks and Lawns. — Where walks are
getting green or Moss-covered a good drfessj
of salt she uld be applied It ondeA* *, i ii Jdflitton
to rendering the surface oHgnFfcnd

one of the best materials I know of for assisting '
the binding of the gravel. It is most effective
when applied in dry weather, so as to gradually
melt away and expend its force on the crown
and roots of the weeds. Roll the walks several
times, as the firmer the surface the less oppor¬
tunity there is for seeds or seedlings to get
established. All coarse-growing weeds should
now be pulled up to the root in lawns and
Grass plots, so as to get the holes filled up with
good Grasses before tne winter comes on. Cut¬
tings of Aucubas, Euonymuses, Bays, and
Laurustinuses may now r be put in, as a large
supply of young stock is always useful. Even
when quite small they come in for filling winter
beds, vases, &c., and when too large for that
purpose they come in for filling up gaps in old
or making up new shrubberies or evergreen
beds. Seeds of the various sorts of Barberry,
such as B. Aquifolium, Darwini, &c., should be
gathered as soon as ripe, or the birds quickly
clear them off. If sown in nursery beds the
young plants prove excellent for decorative
purposes.

Roses.

Those Briers that were budded the first
should now belooked over and the ties slackened,
otherwise, through the thickening of the shoots,
the bark will be all but cut through so far that
the shoots are liable to be broken off by the
wind, in which case the labour bestowed will
be lost, as well as the season’s growth. Where
the buds inserted have started into growth the
shoots beyond the junction may be considerably
shortened, so as to direct the current of growth
to the development of the bud-shoot, yet too
much of the stock shoots should not be cut
away, or the operation will have a correspond¬
ing influence in checking the roots, a circum¬
stance that by no means should occur. In the
spring, when the Roses are receiving the most
attention, the suckers are usually removed, but
it is quite as necessary to take them off now as
it is earlier in the season, otherwise they will
seriously interfere with the strength which the
present season’s growth should attain. Worms
have a particular liking for the soil in pots
where rich manures are used ; on this account
there are no plants grown that suffer more from
their attacks than Roses. The fact of their
bearing strong stimulants admits of soot water
being applied somewhat stronger than would be
safe to use for many plants. Before giving it it
is well to let the plants get as dry as can be
safely done without the foliage being injured ;
then give a thorough soaking, the effect of
which is that generally in a few minutes the
worms, especially the large red ones, make their
appearance above the surface, when they can be
removed.

Fruit.

Vines. —All Grapes intended to keep well
throughout the winter should be fully ripe
before the close of next month. Lady Downes,
Gros Colmar, Alicante, Mrs. Pince, and Muscats
require a full two months from the date of
beginning to colour to become fully ripe, and
owing to the season being so backward, more
than the usual amount of forcing will be neces¬
sary to attain this end by the time named.
Whenever there is sunshine the houses should
be closed up by 2 p.m., and night ventilation
should be put on about 7 p.m., accompanied
by artificial heat, in order to maintain a mini¬
mum temperature of 65 degs., or, if very late,
70 degs. If the borders are inside give them a
thorough watering when the Grapes just begin
to colour, and repeat the operation if necessary
any time before the fruit is fully ripe. In order
to colour Gros Colmar well, we find it requisite
to let the lateral growths extend as much as
possible, and to tie aside the foliage to admit
full sunlight to the bunches. Grapes that are
ripe should be kept as cool as possible, but
apply fire-heat in cold damp weather in order to
keep the atmosphere buoyant, or the condensed
moisture settling on the berries will cause
them to decay. Early vines may now be par¬
tially pruned, all the laterals may be cut
off, and the longest side-shoots shortened back,
but the old foliage should be left intact and
kept free from red spider by frequent syringings.
If necessary, the borders should now be reno¬
vated and surface-roofing encouraged by the
addition of fresh material. Outside borders like
those of late houses may now require protection
from further supplies of moisture.

Melons. —The last batch of plants should
now be well established, and to be certain of
satisfactory fruiting, not less than 75 degs. as a
minimum bottom-heat must be maintained, and
top-heat according to the weather. On bright,
sunny days the temperature may run up to
85 degs. or even 90 degs., provided the walls
and floors are kept sprinklea ; in other respects
treat them as recommended for early crops.
Plants that are swelling off heavy crops water
thoroughly with tepid manure water. Generally
too little manure water is given at this stage,
and consequently the foliage perishes and the
fruit is flavourless. It is a mistake to suppose
that starvation, by withholding water, adds
flavour to the fruit. Sun, and lacking this,
fire-heat, and air are the flavour-producers.

Hardy fruit. —No kinds of Pears, and par¬
ticularly the early varieties, are good when
allowed to fully ripen on the trees ; all should
be gathered the moment they part readily from
the branches ; afterwards their highest qualities
are developed by slow ripening in a cool, airy
room. Late varieties that arc bearing a full
crop should be.thinned out, removing, of course,
the smallest, deformed, and worse placed fruits.
Mulch with good manure, and should dry
weather continue watering will be necessary, at
all events on light soils. The watery shoots
and other useless spray on Plum trees should
now be cut away, and in some instances, such
as that of the finer dessert Plums, the fruit
should be thinned. Net up Buch as must be
left for dessert purposes, for wasps are becoming
a perfect plague.

Gather all Morello Cherries, lay the new
growths in thinly, and well wash the foliage
once a week as a preventive against the attacks
of red spider and aphis. Keep the soil about
Apricot trees mulched to prevent cracking, and
any trees that are extra vigorous may be par¬
tially root-pruned at once. The check will assist
earlier maturation of both root and buds, and the
roots will get re-established before winter. Per¬
haps, if we except the Fig, no other kind of
fruit tree requires such restricted root space,
or else frequent cutting back of the principal
roots, as the Apricot. Where, however, the
former plan—restricted border—can be carried
out by walling in a given space, it is in every
way preferable to root-pruning, insuring, as it
does, at one and the same time both quality
and quantity of fruit. Another requisite as
regards successful culture is firm borders ; the
harder the soil is compressed, the more resist¬
ance have the roots to encounter, and conse¬
quently lateral roots are produced in great pro¬
fusion.

Finish tying or nailing in the shoots of
Peaches, and only in sufficient quantity for
next year’s fruiting. Dust with sulphur to
destroy mildew and spider on outdoor
vines, and, if need be, water well. As
a rule, such vines are planted in dry,
sunny spots where drought prevails at the
root before it is expected, and mildew is fre¬
quently the result. Newly-planted Straw¬
berries must be attended to with water if the
weather be dry, or they will suffer to an extent
that will greatly interfere with their bearing
capabilities the ensuing season. The same
applies to Straw r berries in pots. Those who
cultivate Strawberries in pots may rest assured
that a good deal of their success depends on the
plants being plentifully supplied with water so
long as they are making any growth. Place
them in the full sun on slates or boards in a
square as close as the pots will stand. By this
means they will protect each other from the full
force of the sun, which, coming in contact with
their sides while at all powerful, is injurious to
the roots of any plant grown in pots.

Vegetables.

Potatoes attacked by the disease should
be forthwith dug up, and all that are in the
least affected picked out, and the others, before
being finally stored, should be spread out in a
dry, airy shed for a few days, and again
looked over, picking out any bad ones. The
remainder should then be pitted, and kept as
free as possible from atmospheric influences.

Onions.— Spring-sown Onions, Shallots, and
Garlic will all of them now be ready to harvest.
The bulbs should be pulled up and left on the
ground for eefew days tq^lry, and then moved
to the store-room to be finally cleaned and
stored in tad w»atlier. Th» ground which they

282

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 16 , 1884 .

have occupied will be in good heart for the
main crop of Cabbages for early spring use.

It need not be dug, but simply cleared free of
weeds. Drills should be drawn 2 feet apart,
and the plants dibbled in 1 foot apart, to admit
of alternate plants being drawn out for use
whilst young, and before they injure each other.
The planting of all other kinds of winter Greens
should now be finished,' with the exception of
Coleworts, which may be planted all the year
round.

Celery.— The first-planted Celery will now
require earthing up, but previously remove all
suckers and small outside leaves, and tie up
with bast in order to prevent the soil from get¬
ting into the centres of the plants. The general
stock should not yet be earthed up, for when
once earthing is begun growth is checked, so
that, as a rule, it is best to allow the plants to
get fully grown before earthing takes place— i.e.,
if blanched Celery be not required at an early
date, at least a month should be allowed for
blanching.

Herbs.— Where dry herb3 are required for
winter use this is a good time for them. Thyme,
Sage, Marjoram, Mint, Basil, and Balm should
all be tied in small bunches, and if hung up in
any dry room or shed they will maintain their
natural colour. If dried in the full sun the
leaves go black, and fall off when removed to
their winter quarters. Even where dry herbs
are not in request the plants will be all the
better if shortened back and freed from flower
and seed stems.

Turnips. —In many gardens these follow the
early or second early Potatoes; but of course
they may follow any other crop, or be sown
wherever a vacancy occurs. An open situation
suits them best, as they become more compact
in growth, and are better able to resist cold
weather. If the land is in good condition, solid
manures need not be used for the crop ; and if
they follow Potatoes, the working the land has
received in digging them up will suffice besides
the surface culture always necessary to secure a
fine tilth for covering the seed. It is best to
sow in drills about ^ in. deep and about 14 in.
or 15 in. apart. If the land be dry, the drills
should be well soaked with liquid manure pre¬
vious to sowing. This will be of great advan¬
tage to the crop ; its influence will be felt as
soon as the young plants have begun inde¬
pendent action. A sprinkling of superphosphate
along the drills when the seeds are sown will
also bo most useful if the land is not in good
order.

Vegetable Marrows.— Some of the most
vigorous shoots will require attention as regards
pegging down, or placing bits of bricks or
stones on them to keep them down and cause
them to root. In dry weather water them
abundantly, so as to keep them in vigorous
health, and to prevent the attacks of mildew.
Do not allow the fruit to become too old before
it is gathered.

Cucumbers in frames should be stopped
at every joint where they show fruit, a practice
which tends to preveht their getting so much
crowded with superabundant snoots, as they
otherwise would be ; but even under this treat-
meant they will get too full of growth unless the
knife is freely used from time to time in re¬
moving all that is not required. Where Cucum¬
bers are wanted as late in the season as they can
be had, and where there are no means of grow¬
ing them, except in ordinary garden frames,
they should be assisted with manure water
regularly after they have been some time in
bearing, and, above all, continually syringed,
getting to every part of the leaf-service, so as
to keep them free from insects, without which
all other attention will be unavailing. 'Where
there are houses or pits in which to grow Melons
and Cucumbers, the above directions are equally
applicable.

Tomatoes. — Towards the middle of the
month these will be at their best, as regards
quantity of fruit, but it will be towards the end
of the month before the ripe fruit can be seen to
advantage. As soon as any of the fruits begin
to colour, prune in the leaves and laterals pretty
closely, so as to freely expose the fruits to bright
sunshine. Some growers prefer allowing them
to colour and to fully ripen on the plants ;
others, on the other hand, gather them imme¬
diately they begin t^colour^ and place them on
a layer of straw

fraiGfeitized b

above ground. It will keep coming, but if it is prevented
from making leaves above ground it will die out in one
season.—J. D. E.

The best as well as the easiest way is to be con¬
tinually chopping off the growth as it appears. When the
growth is checked the roots no longer move, and this in
the course of a season or two results in their death. If you
do not allow a plant to make any growth it must die, and
this is the case with Horseradish.—J. C. B.

11S10.—Culture Of Endive.— Plant out now on rich
Boil a foot apart. The plants will be fit for use in the

7 --V " ? "o ° ... „ • +_ n „ “ i | winter. Endivo is very easily grown.—J. 1>. E.

to pull the 1 eas. I cut the netting into 2-yard

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(miscellaneous.)

11S06.—Wire Pea supports.—In answer
to “ J. L.” I may state that I have tried wire
netting with success this year. I bought 50
yards 3 feet high and 4-inch mesh, and 50 yards
4 feet high 4-inch mesh. I have found 4-inch
mesh the right size for getting the hand through

anci 3-yard lengths for convenience. To the
4 feet high pieces I put laths across the ends to
keep them straight. I next procured some
stout stakes and twine to fasten the wire to. I

E ut wire on both sides, the width at the bottom
eing about 12 inches, and about 24 inches at
the top, for, as a rule, Peas flower most at the
top, and therefore require most room—a decided
advantage over the old fashion of roddiug Peas
with sticks wide at the bottom and pointed at
the top, so that the Peas fall down through not
having sufficient support at the top. By set¬
ting the wires a nice width they flower and
yield better, and are kept from falling to the
ground. Two rows I rodded on one side only,
and find that they do equally as well as having
rods on each side, providing the stakes are
good and firm, as the wind seems to have more
pressure on them. We suffer the most from
west winds in the summer, therefore I placed
the wires on the cast side, and they have stood
first-class. Another year I shall only put wire
on one side. I have a splendid row of runner
Beans supported with the wires. All are healthy
and have done well. The expense looks rathe
heavy at first, but with care the netting will
stand for years.— Geo. Beaumont, Taclcaster.

11816.— Tennis lawn.— If the soil is sand
and gravel I should not think the turf is too
coarse for a tennis court. Cut the turf off in
sods 3 feet by 1 foot each, then dig the ground
all over 4 inches to 6 inches deep, then roughly
level, then tread, ram, and roll, and then level
again, and then lay the turf down again, tread
and roll firm, and beat level, and mow every
week. I think on sandy soil you will not be
troubled with much coarse Grass. This should
not be done before the early part of October.
If seed is to be sown do it at once, and do as I
do, viz., sow thickly, and have a good lawn at
once, and no more trouble or expense. Good
turf will cost you £5 and a lot of labour;
then why not spend half the amount on seed
and not have half the labour? Dig the turf in,
then tread, roll, and level firm; sow seed and
rake it in evenly ; cover with sifted manure or
rich soil. As “E. A. C.” said he should not
mind £12 or £14, I would advise him to have
no trouble with it, but contract with someone
that lays lawns down. One good size court can
be laid down well for £10 or £15.—W. M. J.

11796 .—Mushrooms in cellars.— They
may either be grown on the floor of the cellar
or in boxes fixed against the wall. The best
arrangement is to have a bench about 3 feet wide
fixed against the wall, and an 11 -inch board in
the front to keep the bed in its place. The bed
on the ground should also have a board placed
in front of it. The beds ought to be made up
with short stable litter which has been thrown
in a heap, and turned daily until the violent
heat has subsided. They should be filled with
the manure, and it ought to be packed in firmly.
When the heat falls to 85 degs. insert pieces of
spawn the size of a hen’s egg about 6 inches
apart and 2 inches deep. The whole should be

n to colour, ana place t

lashes in

apart 8_

covered over with 2 inches of loam, beat down
firmly with the back of a spade. The Mush¬
rooms will appear in six or eight weeks.—
J. D. E.

11759.— Onions and maggots. —I am afraid “F. E.
Williams ” will be unablo to stay the ravages of the maggots
in his Onion bed this year, but if he will give his ground a
good dressing of salt and soot the winter previous to plant¬
ing, he will find his crop materially benefited thereby.
Use about two bushels of soot and one of salt to the perch,
loss salt if it is a clayey soil.— A. Hatcukr.

11740.— Village flower show.—Having startod and
subsequently carried on for five years a gardeners' and
amateurs’ show in this place, I should be pleasod to givo
“Jumbo” any information on the subject on receiving his
address, as Ido not think there is any nook published on
the subject.— A. Hatcukr.

11742.— Ply on Chrysanthemums. — Dissolv
about two ounces of soft-soap in a gallon of soft water and
then well wash the bloom heads ovory morning till you have
cleared them off, for if let alone now they will injure the
coming blooms very much.—A. Uatchbu.

H807.-Destroying Horseradish.—It is very
difficult to eradicate this. We arc destroying a large bed
of it this season bv constantly spudding it out as it appears

Portsmouth. —We havo no knowledge of the apparatus

you mention.- Soviet .—Petroleum stoves are never

satisfactory for any length of time, and we would adviso
vou to get a proper heating apparatus as being the most

efficient and, in the end, the cheapest.- An Elderly Lady.

—There is a Geranium, or rather Pelargonium, named
Vesuvius, which often sports in the same way as you

describe.- A Subscriber (Briton Ferry).—Webb and

Sons, Seedsmen, Wordsley, Stourbridge.

Names Of plants. — Uncle Jeff.— 1, Antennaria

tomentosa; 2, Erysimum Pcroffskianum.- J. C. Kerf hum.

—Tropieolum spcciosum.- Hugh Peilcn. —1, Francoa

-.ppendiculata ; 2, Crucianella stylosa; 3, Malva moschata

,lha ; 4, Sanguisorba officinalis.- E. M. F .—Arctium

major.- Purple Top.— Salvia Horminum.- R. A. D.

— Rubus Chamoomorus.- Rounds. — EscalJouia mac-

rantha.- J. S. Reid.—I, Campanula pyramidalis ; 2,

C. pyramidalis alba ; 3, Aconitum autuinnalc.-IF. J. L.

—Campanula fragilis.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.— AU communications

for insertion should be dearly and concisely written on one
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the nuinber and title of the query
answered. When more than one ouery is sent each shoulil
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable- time before the day
Of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again
Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when pood
specimens are sent. We do not undertaJce to name varieties
of florists? flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas,
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist who
has the means of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to name should always
accompany the parcel.

11849,-Position for greenhouse.— Iam intending
putting up a greenhouse. The proposed site has the sun
all the morning until about noon, after then it is shaded
by tall trees. *" The trees do not hang over the proposed
site, but they are tall and very near to it. Is it likely that
the trees would draw the plants in the greenhouse, and
will the greenhouse get enough sun ?—A. H.

11850.—Protection for Chrysanthemums.—I
wish to preserv e Chrysanthemums unspoilt, when in flower,
out of doors as long as possible. I have planted a bed of
them in a south aspect against one side of a shed with a
fence at right angles, and have had four rods, one fixed to
the shed and the others attached, forming a skeleton shop
blind, and I wish to know what is the best material for
covering the same with. It would have to he attached to
the rods by rings, and when once up would remain until the
flowers were over. We are much exposed to south and
westerly winds.— Tunbridgbnsis.

1185L—Dividing plants.—Should scarlet Lychnis,
Phloxes, and Potentillas be divided soon after flowering,
also what is the best treatment for Lily of tho Valley in a
Surrey garden ? Mine did not flower at all this year though
it has been two years in the sand-bod.—M. C.

11852 .— Cutting back Clematis.-I have a Clematis
Jackmani which was planted lost September. About
March a gardener I employed cut it back to within a foot
of the ground and said it should be treated in the same
way every yoar. Will some of your readers kindly inform
me if this is correct? It is now about 9 feet high,
covered with bloom. He also cut back a Passion Flower
in the same way, and since then it has not grown G inches.
How is this?—A. Z., Dulwich.

11853.—Oiled paper as protection from frost.
—I understand that this is largely used in Sussex to pro¬
tect small, low plants. Can anyone inform me where it is
sold, or how made, and how it is supported ? If by rods
or iron sticks, what height would it be safe to use them,
and how is it fastened to tho supports?— Tunbridgknsis.

11854.— Poinsettlas from seed.—Can Poinsettias
be raised from seed, and if so where can I get it? Last
winter when in England I tried several seedsmen, who
assured me the plants are propagated by cuttings only, but
I have seen seeds mentioned somewhere.— Vara.

11855 .— Solanum jasminoides from seed.—Can
Solanum jasminoides be reared from seed, and if so where
may the seed be procured ? 1 have not yet found a seeds¬
man who is acquainted with the plant.— Vara.

1185 G.— Wooden Mushroom house.— Will some¬
one kindly give me instructions as to the proper way to
make a Mushroom house of wood? Being a market
gardener I am not particular as to size. — Correspondent.

11857.— Cucumbers turning yellow.— Can any¬
one give me a reason for Cucumbers turning yellow us
soon as they form? They are grown in a hothouse.—
Amateur.

11858.— Improving flowers. —I shall be obliged to
anyone who will tell mo whether Nasturtiums, Sweet Peas,
Poppies, Sunflowers, are As greatly improved by autumn
sowing as are German Scabrous; Cornflowers, an 1 Australian
Poppies ?—F. M. K

ii859.-=-Cutting back Clematises.-1 have been
told that unless Clematis Jackmani be cut down every

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

August 16 , 1884 ]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

283

autumn the flowers deteriorate until it ceases to bloom.
Is this really so ? I shall be prlad, too, to know of any really
hardy and free-flowering white Clematis. I havo tried
several white varieties without success.—F. M. ft.

11SG0.— Clematis Jackmani dying.—I should bo
greatly obliged to any reader who can tell mo why two of
these plants have died one after the other. The first
(planted in the autumn), after showing signs of growing
freely this summer died, in one day and night—first the
growing points, then the whole plant, except one shoot
from the root. Its successor has gone Just in the same
way.—ft. I). W.

11861.—Trees for avenue.—I am desirous of plant¬
ing an avenue of deciduous trees that shall make some
show in 25 or 30 years’ time. I recently saw-, I think, in
Gardening that Ailantus glandulosa made a fine tree in a
few years. There are also in this neighbourhood Tulip
trees quite large which I remember planted about 25 years
l)uck. Limes also grow well here. My Boil is a deep, rich
loam, rather stiff. Would some of your correspondents
give me some advice on the subject? I should like, if
possible, something a little out of the common. I suppose
about October or November would be a good time to plant.
-C. W. R. c.

11861—Plants for clayey bank.— Wo have a
raised bank in our garden—soil, a stiff clay; the aspect is
slightly to the north and east, and the situation very ex¬
posed. For three years we have tried growing Roses on
this bank, but they are always blighted and mildewed. I
shall bo grateful to anyone who will tell me what plants
would do well on this uncongenial spot, or whether we
might hope to succeed with any very hardy Roses—ours
are mostly Teas. As tne bank is within sight of the houso
we wish to make it pretty.—1'. M. R.

11863. — Woodlice eating Foxgloves.—I have
grown splendid Foxgloves from seed, but on several occa¬
sions I have found the stalks broken off and down upon the
ground, having been completely eaten off by woodlice. I
watered with black soap water, but failed to keep these
I»osts away. Is there any remedy ?—X. Y. Z.

11864. — To beat a Fern-case.—I have a largo Forn
case, 3 feet long by 2 feet wide, and I want to know of a
simple way of heating it. Would an air chamber under¬
neath (with holes for heat to come up through) in which a
small paraffin lamp is kept burning do?—X. Y. Z.

11865.— Rose Celeste.— Where can this Rose bo pur¬
chased? —Norwood.

11866.— Insects in soil.—I have a very old garden,
the soil of which is infested by a minute white insect, in
form very much like a woodlouse, but very small aud
white. It eats into Onions, Potatoes, and Indeed nearly
all roots, and in the spring into the larger seeds. I have
tried a heavy coating of magnesian, quicklimo, and also
gaslirae, but to no avail. Can anyone recommend some¬
thing effectual and not expensive ?—E. J. R.

11867.— Cyclamens dying.— On looking over my
bulb box several weeks ago I noticed some of the
Cyclamens growing, so I planted them in 4-inch pots, but
they have since died instead of making any growth. Will
some reader kindly give me cause, and a remedy, and how
I should treat them? I bought the plants last spring
when in bloom, and took them up as soon os they died off.
—G. H. M.

11868.— Raspberries failing—Twelve months last
winter I trenched up a piece of ground 2 feet deep—a
strong loam on a clay sub-soil—well manured it, and
planted it with Falstaff Raspberries. They threw up
several strong shoots each, and I was advised to cut out
all but two or three to each stool. In a short time the
canes left threw out side shoots, and, instead of the fine
fruit I expected, I have a lot of small fruit not worth
gathering. Did I do wrong by thinning them out before
they had done growing ?—J. R. B.

ns®).—Herbaceous plants after flowers.—
Ought the flowering steins of herbaceous plants to bo cut
off after flowering ? I have cut down tho stems of my
bupines and Delphiniums, &c., &c., as I did not wish to
keep the seed, and did not like tho untidy appearance of
the plants. Should tho flowering stems of bulbous plants
be left to go to seed, or are the bulbs improved by the
leaves only being left on after the plant has done flower-
iog?—A nxious.

11870.— Tan for hotbeds.—Should tan be got fresh
to make hotbeds, or will it answer if kept for some time
dry under a shed until wanted ?—R. V. D.

11871.— Ferns in rooms.— I htve several Ferns
which 1 should like to grow in a sitting-room with a large
lav window facing north-oast, such as Aspleniums,
Poly8tichums, and other hardy kinds, also Pteris tremula,
Adiantum pubescens, &c., which arc not quite so hardy.
I havo also a Cyperus alternifolius and Grevillea robusta,
which I should like to grow with them. Any information
as to the proper way of treating them and watering them
so that they will look fresh and healthy will much oblige.
-H. C.

11872.—Tuberoses.—Can any reader inform me how
to grow Tuberoses successfully? Mine are grown in a
moderately warm houso, and tho foliage is healthy, but
;horc are no flowers.— Caledonia.

1 1873. — Propagating 1 Clematis.— Can any reader
:nform me the Dcst way to propagate Clematis Jackmani,
whether by seed, cuttings, grafting, or layers? 1 havo
raised Clematis from seed, but they have all turned out
-mall and poor.—S kmaj.

11874.— Peat charcoal— Will any reader inform me
where peat charcoal may be obtained, and its price per
L-wt. ?—Sanitas.

11875.— Grubs in Cinerarias.— My young Cineraria
plants, also my Chrysanthemums, are this j’ear infested
with grub in the leaves, which quite disfigures the plants.
What is it, and is there any remedy, and can anything be
done to prevont a recurrence of this evil ?—S. W.

11876.—Vine in pot.— Many thanks to “ J. D. E." for
hU answer to my query, but will he say what compost to
>«e, an<l how often will it want renewing?—C. W. M.

11877 .—Peaches from seed^— If I sow PeMh and
V’tctarinc stones will they pr/duce Peach •‘.nd.Nilctatjne
trees that will bear fruit withdbt ffijaAmt 1 IIjlulytmust
be grafted, at what age should »e^b5rfono

11878.— Panlcum variegatum.— What treatment
does this plant require ?— R. W.

11879.—Pruning 1 Gooseberry trees.—Last week I
wanted to prune my Gooseberry and Currant bushes.
Tho gardener told mo I should bleed them by letting the
sap run out, and kill the trees. When ought they ao be
done—now, or later in the autumn?— Nelson.

11880.— Propagating frame —In Gardening, March
31st, 1883, a description, with drawing, is given of apropa-
gating frame heated artificially. As such an apparatus
would suit my purpose admirably, if practical I should
be glad to know if any of your readers have, during the
past winter, given it a fair trial and with what result ; also
is it necessary to place the frame near the glass of my con¬
servatory, or whether it would do as well on the floor ?
Does the lamp givo off any injurious fumes, and is the
apparatus, generally speaking, inimical or not to the well¬
being of the plants occupying a cool greenhouse?—
Subscriber.

11S81.—Removal Of trees.— I have a small garden
at the bottom of which arc four trees which take away
nearly all the sun and air, I believe. I could not remove
two of them without consent of ground landlord, but would
someone kindly tell me if I may cut the tops off and lop
tho branches as much as I desire ?—Horse-chestnut.

11882.— Earwigs eating Nectarines.— My Nee*
tarines were, last year, eaten by these troublesome insects
before they were anything like ripe. Will someone kindly
say how a repetition of this may be prevented ?—P. S. P.

118S3.— Moving fruit trees.— In November, 1879'
some fruit trees w r ere planted against a wall facing west*
and they are now found to be too close together. Would
the trees be injured by being moved this autumn ? The
trees to be moved are Pears and Cherries.—P. S. P.

11884.—Cucumbers dying off.— What is the cause
of Cucumber plants dying? They flag very much fora
few days and then die right away. It appears to be some¬
thing at the root. They are well watered and shaded.—J.
E.

11885.—Dipladenia aurabills.— What temperature
does this require and does it require much water 1 The
leaves have died off my plant and a sort of mildew’ affects
the wood.—R. W.

118S6.—Salvia buds dropping.—I have a Salvia
patens in a pot blooming nicely, Dut many of the buds drop
off, and nearly all the leaves have ugly, rusty-looking spots
upon them. I keep it well watered. I should be glad to
know the cause and cure.— Vara.

11887 — Gloire de Dijon Rose —Will a Glorie de
Dijon Rose do on a north wall that gets little or no sun ?—
A. Z., Dulwich.

POULTRY.

FOWLS FOR EGGS AND FLESH.

The earliest chickens are always the best. They
escape many disorders that young broods are
liable to contract. The early egg-producers
should not be far behind, for full maturity must
come before any eggs can be expected. For this
purpose the Hamburgs and Leghorns answer a
good end, and oftentimes the liberally-fed
Spanish. Brahmas that are intended for market
chickens should come out early in April, that
they may have all the growth they can get. The
April hatch of Brahmas cannot be ready for
market before August. If there is convenience,
with warm places, they might come off two weeks
earlier to advantage.

If small-limbed fowls, with light bone, are
selected for breeders, they will do remarkably
well at this season. For this purpose the
Dorkings are a good breed, although many prefer
the Plymouth Rocks. The Dorkings possess less
bone, and are thrifty growers. The early egg-
producers should be pushed ahead as rapidly as
possible, so that they may reach a laying
condition in autumn. For market chickens, as
well as good hardy layers, it is advantageous
many times to employ crosses. A little Leghorn
blood establishes early maturity as well as
proclivity for eggs, and the Dorking or Cochin
cross unite size and flesh. For delicacy of flavour
and fineness of grain the former is superior.
Almost everyone has a favourite fowl—one that
suits the immediate purpose better than another;
and that one it is best to cultivate.

Care and food given for years have done much
to alter the old-fashioned type of barnyard fowls
into the Bloek, finely-plumed birds of the present
day. When these arc expended on choicely-bred
stock they bring out all the fine points and
superior qualities. The fine fowls of the present
day cannot endure the hardships of those fifty
or even twenty-five years ago. The great egg-

S roducers were originally imported either from
[editerranean islands or peninsulas, or the
States bordering on the German Ocean, and the
climate in these sections is of more even tempe¬
rature, and in many instances milder. The fowls
from these regions are generally hardy aud great
egg-producers. Our grandfathers did not look
for winter eggs ; consequently the fowls could
roost on the trees and subsist on the meagre
rations allowed them. If not, they might die.

There was no great value attached to them. If
the winter was mild and open, most of them
would live through and como out in tho spring
with blackened heads and frost-bitten toes.
They would present their owners with a few
dozens of eggs in warm weather, according as
the feed was plenty or not, and then as the
season advanced they would steal to their nests
and rear the family chickens, in tho meantime
making away with all the small fruits growing
about the yards and gardens to so great an extent
that their bodies in many instances found their
way to the dinner pot, and the survivors were
clubbed and stoned.

Our present breeds arc the very best that can
be procured, but they cannot live on air, neither
can they endure the severity of the cold. They
must have food, shelter, and care. Almost any
of the breeds will become winter layers if given
warm places, and plenty of food ana drink. Tho
Brahmas and Plymouth Rocks are said to be
better layers of winter eggs than any others.
But they are gross and heavy feeders. If warm
and sunny enclosures are given the Leghorns,
they will excel the Asiatics in number of eggs
and on less feed. Where one large Brahma is
kept two of the small birds may be fed, and
instead of the one egg a day there would be two.
The principal thing is the feeding, and this must
be expended a longtime before the returns como.
Our grandsires would rise up in astonishment at
the amount and variety that must be expended.
We live in an age of progression, and must keep
up with the times. The old-fashioned barnyard
fowls have gone out of existence, or are only
rarely met with.

Bindweed injurious to chickens.— In
one of the yards here, reserved exclusively for
young poultry fattening for the table, a sudden
epidemic set in last week amongst the nearly
full-grown chickens. They refused their food
and moped in a manner quite unaccountable,
until it was noticed that some fine plants of the
common white Bindweed growing up against the
fence had been entirely denuded of their leaves
as high up as it was possible for the chickens
to reach them. The plants were immediately
cut down and removed, and the chickens are
now, after a lapse of some days, recovering.
We all know what a troublesome weed the
“withy-wind” is to the gardener, but that it
might prove hurtful to animals or poultry eating
it is a new fact to the writer and may be of some
use to others. The flavour of it seems to have
been peculiarly agreeable to the chickens here,
since they crowded to the spot where it had been
growing for some time after it had l>een taken
away, evidently missing and looking for their
accustomed treat. That the plant should be
injurious is not to be wondered at, considering
that the Bindweeds are nearly allied to the
beautiful Convolvulus-like climber (Exogonium
purga) from which jalap is prepared, and both
the British species—the pretty little pink Field
Bindweed as well as the large white-flowered
kind—possess the same medicinal qualities in
a marked degree. —Ashmore Rectory, Dorset .

AQUARIA.

Management of bell-glass aquarium.

—I have a 15-inch bell aquarium, in which I
keep several minnows, but I find the water gets
quite foul in about three days, although I take
off about three quarts of the water daily, and
add the same amount of fresh water. In the
bottom I have a little river sand and a few largo
stones. Would it be advisable to have a plant
in the aquarium, and if so where could I obtain
it ? I have also heard that water slugs, if placed
with fish, act as scavengers. I do not know
if this is tho case, but shall be greatly
obliged to anyone who will gire me advice.—
Margarita.

Locality and soil. —In reply to Mr.
Wood’s interesting note on this subject, anyone
who will look into my front garden can see a
bush of Marguerite (Alice Croussc) which has
been out all the winter. It measures 3ft. 10in.,
and 4ft. through^ and is about 12ft. round.
Soil: Poor- clay, -very dry ; chalky subsoil ;
situation muck ’exposedM ortgxt The
Linden*) ,Ajep Brom&top^ •Jftnt.

284

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 16, 1884.

PRIZE ONIONS for Autumn Sowing.—New

J- Golden Queen, New Mammoth White Tripoli, Giant Red
Italian Tripoli, Giant White Italian Tripoli, Cranston's
Excelsior and Trebons, each per packet, 6d. & la.; the nix
varieties, per collection, 2s. 6d. & 6s.—STUART & MEIN,
Kelso, Sootland ._

TWTEIN’S No. 1 CABBAGE.—This is unques-

tionably the earliest spring Cabbage in cultivation, and
of the highest value to market gardeners. Is. per oz., post
froe. Special price per lb. on application.—STUART k
MEIN.JKelso, Scotland.

TV/TEIN'S No. I CABBAGE.—The hearts are

T»-L formed very early, and ultimately attain to a great size
and weight, keeping till late in the season without running to
seed. la. per oz., poet free.—STUART k MEIN, Kelso, Scot
land. _

'M'EIN’S No. 1 CABBAGE.—The hearts of this

-LY-L variety have been exhibited at autumn shows, as much
as 28 lbs. weight each, perfectly solid, crisp, and white. Sow
first week of July to middle of August, plant out first batch
early in September, la. per oz., post free.—8TUART &
MEIN, Kelso, Scotland.

REIN’S No. 1 CABBAGE.

-Correspondents

inform us that they can cut fine hearts of this splendid
Cabbage quite a month before any other variety is at all fit.
loner oz., post free. Special price per lb. on application.—
STUART k MEIN, Kelso, Scotland.

Q uickest of ail cabbages.—B righton

Favourite bowu now will turn in next spring long before
the summer vegetables are ready. Those planted out seven
weeks ago are being cut now. The habit being close nnd
compact it can be planted one foot apart. Just the thing
for small gardens; Is. per ounce, post free.— KLLMI8TER,
Brighton.

E NFIELD MARKET CABBAGE, Battersea,

East Ham, Nonpariel, Shilling's Queen, Wheeler's
Imperial, Early Rainnara, London Market, Large York
Heartwell, and Giant Red; each 6d. per ounce, post free.—
KILMISTER, Seedsman, Brighton.

n.IANT ROCCA ONION, beat sort for sowing

now; seed from a noted strain, 9d.
good useful sort, 6d. per ounce,
young in early Bpring, 4d. ounce.

S ee daman. Brighton . __

"ytTALLFLOWERS, Sweet Williams, Antirr-

» * hinums, Canterbury BellB, good plants, 4s. per 100.—
W. DIXON, Castle Hill and Cranfurd Nursery. Maicltr-nhead

f)LD CLOVE CARNATION CUTTINGS,

U warranted true, new salmon-coloured ditto, 9d. doz., free.
—F. NEWBERY, Raglan House, Wolverhampton. [1843

rjHOlCE HARDY FERNS.—A first-class

assortment of 25 distinct varieties, selected from leading
British and hardy exotic kinds, offered in strong plants for
12s. Gd. ; smaller plants free by parcels post same price.—
HUSSEY SON, Mile End Nursery. Norwich.

WANTED, STEPHANOTIS, and other choice

flowers, and Maidenhair Fern. Also outdoor Peaches,
Nectarines. &c. -Address, BLACK & DUGGLEBY, Florists.
Scarborough. _ [1813

SCOTCHGAR DEN ERS.

JOHN DOWNIE, Seedsman, 144, Princes Street, Pidin-
burgh, has at present on his list a number of Scotch
Gardeners waiting re-engagements, at wages ranging from
£50 to £100 per annum, and he will be pleased to supply full
particulars to any nobleman or gentleman requiring a truat-
worthy and competent gardener.

UICHARD SMITH & CO. beg to announce

that they are constantly receiving applications from

gardeners seeking situations, and th^
any lady or gentleman with particulars, Ao.—St.'John's Sur
aeries Worcester.

o hapj>y to suj>]

K ENT, within half-hour of Cannon Street,

commanding splendid views. —For SALE or TO LET,
freehold detached double-fronted residence ; three reception!
four bed, dressing, and large fitted bath rooms, greenhouse,
excellent offices, gardens (half acre), back and side entrances,
room for stabling—M. C. t George Cheesman, Esq., 2,
Serjeants' Inn, Chancery Lane.

■DOXES! BOXES! BOXES!—Postal flower

AJ Boxes for sending cut flowers, cuttings, bulbs, Ac., safely
by post. Three dozen assorted sizes by parcels post for
5s. bd., or sample dozen for 2s. Also Boxes for sending game
and wedding cake; and Boxes of all descriptions. Special

S ices for large quantities.—Apply, 8. TANTON k CO.,
jx Factory. Torrington, Devon.

V IRGIN CORK TOR FERNERIES AND

» CONSERVATORIES—The cheapest and best house in
London — G. LO OK YER ACC,'., 13. High Rt.. Bloomsbury, W.
Price Sixpence each.

VEGETABLE LIFE and FLOWERLESS

“ PLANTS, by N. Danvers; Illustrated Natural History,
written in language Bimple enough to be Intelligible to every
child who can read; HUGHES'S PHY8ICAL GEOGRAPHY,
NUMEROUS DIAGRAMS; ENTIRELY REWRITTEN,
WITH MAP OF WORLD, 3s. 6d.— Philip A Son, Publishers,

32. Fleet St.. E.O., and Liverpool

FIR TREE OIL INSECTICIDE (soluble in water)
Effectually clears all INSECTS and PARASITES from the
Roots or Foliage of Trees and Plants. Kills all Vegetable
Grubs, Turnip Fly, Ac- Cures Mildew and Blight. Clears
Grapes from Mealy Bug, Ac., and makes a good Winter
Dressing. Of all Seedsmen and Chemists, Is 6d., 2s. 6d.,
4s. 6d. a bottle. Per gallon 12s. 6d., or less in larger quantities.
A Treatise on “Fir Tree Oil," and Us application, sent fret, on
receint of address by the Manufacturer, E. GRIFFITHS
HUGHES, MANCHESTER. Wholesale from Hooff.r A
Co. ; Corky, Soper, Fowler A Co.; C. E. Osman A Co.,
and from all the London Seed Merchants and Wholesale
Patent Medicine Houses. _

n.ARDEN POTS.—12 8in., 20 6in., 50 5in.,

^ , 50 A 5 r L 1 'Packed In cases and sent to rail for 7s. 6d.

cash.—H. GODDARD. Pottery. Peckham. London. [1713

pjOCOA-NUI FIBRE REFUSE.—Rest quality,

“ supplied to the principal Nurserymen and the Nobility,
Is. per bag; 15 bags, 14s.; 30 bags, 25s. Sent to ail parts.
Truck, loose, 25s., free to rail. Best Loam and Peat —A
FOULON. 32. St. Marv Axe

flARDEN Stakes,

Raffia. Ac. None

Labels, ^Virgin Cork, Mats,
AT&ON and 8CULL,

ia, Ac. None cheaper.—WA'

»u. Lower Thamee-street, London. E C.

QECONb-HANb LAWN MOWE:

- or vS

- r pony __

£7. carriage uald
Dumfries

ACE,

B E A.TJTX FTJ Xj

COLOURED PLATES "FLOWERS

For Screens and Scrap-books.

From Drawings by the best flower painters, finely reproduced in colour. Per dozen, 2s. 6d. ;
per twenty-five, 5s. ; per fifty, 9s. ; per hundred, 15s., post-free. P.O.O. to T. Spanswick.
Specimen Plate post-free, 3d.

1. Abelia floribunda.

2. Abutilon vitifolium.

3. Acantholimon venustum.

4. Achillea rupestris.

5. .-Ethionema milchellum and Anemone vernalis.

6. Amaryllis, Mrs. Garfield.

7. American cowslips, a group of

8. Androsace foliosa.

9. Anemone palmata alba.

10. Apple, Stone’s.

11. Arctotis aureola.

12. Armeria setacea.

13. Asters, new tasselled.

14. Batatas paniculata.

15. Beaufortia splendens.

16. Begonias, group of new (Laing)

17. do. Roezli.

18. do. socotrana.

19. Bessera elegans.

20. Bignonia venusta.

21. Blandfordia Cunninghamii splendens.

22. Bomarea caldasiana.

23. do. conferta.

24. Bouvardia President Garfield and Alfred Neuner.

25. Brodiiea laxa and vars.

26. Brownea macrophylla.

27. Calandrinia grandiflora.

28. Calanthe Regnieri.

29. Callicarpa purpurea.

30. Calochorti, group of.

31. Camnssia esculenfca.

32. Camellia, C. M. Hovey

33. do. group of new.

34. Campanula AJlionii.

35. Canna iridiflora EhemannL

36. Carnations, group of clove.

37. do. three new tree.

38. Cattleya aurea.

39. do. citrina.

40. do. gigas.

41. do. Mendelli superbissima.

42. do. varieties of Trianae.

43. Celsia cretica.

44. Cereus C. M. Hovey.

45. Chevalliera Veitchi.

46. Chrysanthemum coronaria vars.

47. do. three new.

48. do. Tisiphone, Ringleader, and Orange

Beauty.

49. Cicnkowskia Kirki.

50. Cinerarias, group of double.

51. Clematis coceinea.

52. do. Jackmanni alba.

53. do. Siebold’s and purple.

51. Clianthus Dampieri.

55. Comparettia macroplectron.

56. Cottage Garden, an Oxfordshire.

57. Crinum Moorei.

58. Crossandra undulrefolia.

59. Cymbidium Masters!

60. Cypripedium insigne Maulei and punctatum violaceum.

61. ao. Morganiie.

62. do. Spicerianum.

63. Daphne Blagayana.

f4. Dendrobium bigibbum.

65. do. infundibulum.

66. do. Lecchianum.

67. do. nobile nobilius and Walllchianum.

68. Dianthus Atkinsoni

69. Dipladenia profusa.

70. Disa grandiflora (vars. superba and Barrelli).

71. Echinocereus gonocanthus.

72. Eleeocarpus cyaueus.

73. Epidendrum rhizophorhum.

74. Epigiea repens.

75. Eranthemum cinnabarinum.

76. Erysimum pumilum and Sedum spatulifolium.

77- Erythronium giganteum, revolutum, and grandiflorum.
78 Eucharidium Breweri.

79- Eucharis Sanderiana.

80. Eulophia guineensis.

81- Exacum macranthum.

82- Freesia refracta alba and major Leichtlinii.

83. Fritillaria kamtschatcensis and Sempervivum arach-

noideum.

84. Gentiana bavarica and Aquilegia glandulosa.

85. Gladioli, early flowering (The Fairy, Princess Mathilde,

Van Speyke, Ne Plus Ultra, and Beatrice).

86. Gladiolus, Mrs. Bates.

87. Hypericum triflorum.

88. Hypocalyrona robustum.

89. Imantophyllum miniatum, Martha Reimers.

90. Impatiens 8ultani.

91. Ipseas speciosa and spathoglottis Lobbi.

92. Iris Ktempferi vars

July 1,1884. -

93. Iris orieutalis.

94. do. reticulata.

95. do. group of Spanish.

96. do. stylosa.

97. Ismene Andreana.

98. Iriolirion Pallas!

99. Jasminum pubescens.

100. Kalmia latifolia.

101. Kniphofia camosa.

102. Laelia anceps, vars of (Dawsoni, Williamsiana, Perci-

valiana, rosea. Barkeri, HillI, and Veitchi).

103. Lwlia autumnalis venusta.

104. do. harpophylla

105. Leptospermum lanigerum.

106. Lilium Humboldtii and var.

107. do. Leichtlinii.

108. do. martAgon (album and dalmaticum).

109. do. pardalinum and its vars.

110. do. pomponium verum.

111. do. speciosum melpomene

112. do. rubescens and Washingtonlanum.

113. Lisianthus glaucifolius

114. Lycaste Skinnerl and white var.

115. Lychnis Lagascic and Potentilla nltida.

116. Magnolia narviflora.

117. do. Soulangeana nigra.

118. Mascarenbasia Curnowiana.

119. Meconopsis Wallichiana.

120. Megasea purpurascens.

121. Mesospinidium vulcanicum.

122. Modiola geranioides. -

123. Mutisia dtcurrens.

124. Nepenthes Mastersiana, Chelsoni, and Morganiie.

125. do. Veitchi, bicalcarata. and albo-marginata.

126. Nerines pulchella, Plantii, pudica, humilis, filifolla, and

corusca.

127. North American wild flowers, a group of (Arum tri

phyllum, Phlox divaricata, Thalictrum anemonoidea
Trillium grandiflorum, Uvalaria sessiliflora).

128. Nymphsea gigantea and flava.

129. do. tuberosa,

130. do. zanzibarensis.

131. Ochna multiflora.

132. Odontoglossum citrosmum album and roseum.

13 ! . do. crispmn.

134. do. excellens and Pescatorei.

135. do. hebraicum.

136. do. InBleyayi splendens.

137. Oncidium cucullatum giganteum.

138. do. macranthum.

139. Opuntia Rafinesquei.

140. Orchis foliosa, vars. of.

141. Papaver alpinum and Anthemis Aizoon.

142. Pavonia Wiotii.

143. Pentstemon humilis and Eritrichium nanum.

144. Pernettya mucronata.

145. Pescatorea Klabochonmi.

146. Phalrenopsis intermedia Portel.

147. do. Sanderiana.

148. do. Stuartiana nobilis and Schilleri&na.

149. Philesia buxifolia.

150. Pinguicula caudata.

151. Puschkinia scilloides.

152. Pyrus Hosti.

153. Ranunculus anemonoides.

154. Rheum nobile.

155. Rhododendron Auckland!

156. Rose Marie Baumann.

157. do. Marechal Niel.

158. do. Catherine Mermet.

159. Rubus delici osub.

160. Salvia Bethelli, leucantha, splendens, Bruanti, ssan

chon, and cacalimfolia.

161. Salvia Pitcheri.

162. Schizostylis coccinca.

163. Sedum sempervivoides.

164. Sisyrinchium grandiflorum and var.

165. Sobralia xantholeuca.

166. Sophronitis grandiflora rosea.

167. Sparaxis pulchcrrima.

168. Spinea Douglasii.

169. Steuorhynchus speciosum.

170. Tecophylma cyanocrocus.

171. Telopea speciosissima.

172. Tropioolum Hermine Grashoff.

173. Utricularia montana.

174. Vanda coerulea.

175. do. Hookeriana.

176. do. insignia and var. Schrcederiana,

177. do. lamellata Boxalli.

178. do. Sanderiana.

179. do. tricolor Patersonii.

180. Vesicaria grseca.

181. Viola pedata bicolor.

182. Zenobia speciosa pulverulenta.

Publishing Office : 37, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.C.

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GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

AUGUST 23, 1884.

No. 28o.

Convolvulus tricolor Rose queen.

or allotment run wild, and not one of the
beautiful wild plants of the neighbourhood will
find its way there for a very long while,
showing that the conditions are to a great
extent unsuitable. That is the great blunder
which has hitherto prevented progress in
gardening. We bring together plants which
grow amongst tall Grass—in woods, on rocks, in
ary ground, in flooded ground, in marshes, in
Beasand, in deserts, in fat pastures, and on wind¬
swept mountain-slopes—and we plant them all in
same Boil, and give them all the same food and
a wholly unnatural cultivation, and expect
them to thrive. A few adapt themselves to the
new conditions, and like them, and become in
time so unlike their wild parents that those are
in some cases unknown ; but by far the greater
number refuse to live. Some conditions under
which plants grow are expensive to imitate in
gardens, but many are quite attainable in small
gardens. The prevalence of bedding had a
very pernicious effect on small gardens, one of
the results of it was the cutting
out of beds on turf, and the
making of narrow borders under
fences and around shrubs, in
which nothing but a few plants
could be grown. Ground under
and near Bhrubs and trees should
be used for plants which
naturally grow in Buch positions,
and open beds on Grass should
be used for plants which grow
in dry, scorching places.

The Natural Soil or a
Garden

Should, to a great extent, deter¬
mine what Bhall be planted, but
artificial soils should be made in
places to allow of other plants
being grown. Grass as an orna¬
mental feature should not be
introduced into very small
gardens; when the ground is
but 30 feet wide and under, any
attempt to imitato the lawn of
a large garden looks pretentious
aud paltry. A plot of Grass is
often a necessity, and is always
a convenience, and if it is merely
ifn unpretending square, or
oblong of turf, it will give space
to the garden, and will be per¬
fectly in keeping with every¬
thing. Fifty feet is the nar¬
rowest garden in which the lawn
can be treated as an ornamental
feature, and even then the
greater part of the Grass should
be nearly the full width of the
plot.

Walks are a great deal of
trouble in a small garden, and should be
curtailed as much as possible. A walk down
both sides of a small plot is not required,
and takes up valuable space. A walk down
one Bide about 3 feet from the fence is
usually sufficient, and in wider plots it may
sweep round towards the farther end, bo hk
to reach the centre. A low’ rockery for dwarf
plants, or a bed for the same, may be made
nearest the house, but most of the flowers
should be beyond the Grass plot. A better w ay
would, of course, be to have the flowers round
the Grass, but the narrowness of most small
gardens precludes that arrangement.

The Selection op Plants
Should precede the making of the beds if really
choice things are desired and the garden is to
be a success. Plants in a state of nature must
have something to live on. It will be found
that, as a rule, those plants which come up
from year to year in the same spot grow where
they have a plentiful supply of decaying vege¬
tation to feed them. And that large plants which
grow in places where ‘ that’ is not plentiful,
either rim about freely a^he root so as to be
continually taking fresh ground', reproduce

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

VARIETIES OF CONVOLVULUS
TRICOLOR.

There are now nearly a dozen distinct colours
to be found in the varieties of the old Con¬
volvulus tricolor or C. minor, as it is more fre¬
quently called, ail of which are beautiful, but
there are one or two new sorts in which they
are particularly so. These are grown largely at
Messrs. Carter’s seed farms at St. Osyth. One
is named New Crimson Violet, the colour of the
flowers being that represented by its name—a
charming tint and quite distinctfrom all the rest.
Another new one is Rose Queen, the subjectof the
annexed wood-cut, the flowers of which are
rose with a pure white centre, and fringed with
a purplish violet shading off to yellow. It is an
extremely pretty variety and one of the
showiest of hardy annuals. Iu habit it is dwarf
and dense and very floriferous. A third new
and beautiful sort is clegans, a
kind with flowers of an intensely
rich purple with light centre.

In a selection of annuals these
should not be omitted.

equally glaring blunders are made in other dis¬
tricts. The first thing to take into consideration
| is the position of the garden. Small gardens in
the suburbs of smoky towns, and enclosed by
walls or high fences, are very unfavourable
places for gardening. A garden should always
be more or less square, however small, and all
round the house. A dead set should be made
by everybody against the practice of cutting
building land into narrow slips.

The second thing to notice is the state of the
! soil. Intending occupiers of houses should
always regard it as indispensable that the soil
of what is intended for garden Bhall be undis¬
turbed plough, pasture, or garden land. If the
surface soil has been disturbed the garden should
I be made by the landlord. Of course, that refers
I only to newly-built houses. In planuiug a
garden it is of the first importance that it
shall be designed-for the plants to be grown
in it, for the plants will not adapt themselves
to a garden not suited to their requirements.

MAKING ii MANAGEMENT
OF SMALL GARDENS.

It is very difficult for a beginner
in gardening to find any prac¬
tical instruction as to how to
begin to lay out and manage
a small plot of ground w hen he
comes into possession of it for
the first time in his life.

I have a very vivid recol¬
lection of early efforts and
blunders, and of the impossi¬
bility of finding any practical
instruction of a sufficiently ele¬
mentary character. Cheap books
were a mere catalogue of plants ;
more expensive works described
the best ways of doinjc; every¬
thing, but no cultivation that
was suitable either to the appli¬
ances of a small garden or to the
time at the disposal of the owner
of it.

Luckily I knew how to culti¬
vate a garden, and the require¬
ments of most of the old-
fashioned florists’ flowers. I
also understood vegetable physi¬
ology, and the nature of a plant’s
life and growth. Ability to grow
Carnations, Pinks, Pansies, and
Anemones served as a guide
to Chrysanthemums, Lilies,

Phloxes, Zinnias, and many other

f dants, so that I could report fair progress
>efore the establishment of “Gardening "and
the revival of a taste for hardy flowers opened
up a new world of beauty to even the smallest
cultivator.

Success in Gardening
Cannot be expected at once. “ Bairns maun
•.Tcep ere they gang,” is a good old Scotch
proverb which applies with great force to
jardening. Ail that I shall attempt to do is to
ndicate how a small garden should be laid out
» as to form a home for as large a number of
plants as possible, and how these can be grown
*ith a minimum of trouble. The first question
a beginner should settle in his own mind on
:omiug into possession of a plot of ground is,
What can I grow here?” The second is,
‘What of these would I like to grow!” The
order of these queries must on no account be
reversed. One of the first blunders a beginner
usually makes is the planting of a very pretty
scheme of a garden, scarcely one of the plants
in which will thrive or even live in the positions
in which they are placed. In London the
beginner’s first attempt is generally marked by
a plentiful planting of tbe-^Standard Rise in
little bedsjpn Grass, pr iiftlm Qno

The first thing to settle is the placing of trees
and shrubs, if any ; in a narrow garden the
best place for trees is at the further end from
the house. The shadows which they cast will
then form a cool background for any tall
flowers Been against it. The few trees planted
in a small garden should be flowering trees
exclusively—Almond, the finer LUacs, double
Guelder Rose, or Snowball tree, Laburnum,
double flowering Cherry, and Mountain Ash.
Trees should not be scattered about, but Bliould
be planted in a clump. There should be no
cutting up of the ground into small beds in a
small garden. Any beds made should be merely
to separate soils, or plants requiring distinct
cultivation.

The Plants Grown in Gardens
Mainly belong to climates resembling our own
as regards temperature. Twenty-four of our
good garden plants are natives, or double
varieties of natives, excluding ferns and trees.
Any one acquainted with tho localities and
conditions in which wild plants are found know
that only a very few are seen growing in any¬
thing like the conditions under which we try to
grow them in gardens. Let a cottage garden

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 23, 1884.

28<j

themselves from seed, or are once flowering
plants of annual or biennial duration. Spaces,
therefore, should be set apart for plants
which require change of soil, so that they
can be moved without disturbing those
which do best undisturbed. The soil can
be varied while the beds are being made
sandy at one part, loamy at another, mixed
with lime rubbish at another; while a
part can be raised for plants which like such
positions. On no account, however, should any
great extent of beds be raised into banks or
mounds. In the selection of plants caution is
necessary, and especially if any massing of
colour is desired. In large gardens plants which
produce their flowers in a scattered way can be
used far more freely than in small ones. If we
look at a single plant of the common Buttercup,
there is the very reverse of a mass of flower.
Only some six or seven yellow cups fully open,
and yet these scattered blooms, where plentiful,
appear a mass of yellow at the further edge of
a field, as telling as a band of yellow Calceo¬
larias.

In a small garden we cannot plant hundreds
or even dozens of many plants, therefore we
must use plants which produce plenty of bloom
almost exclusively.

Masses of tall (proving plants should not be
planted in small gardens. The beds should be
tilled mainly with dwarf plants, the most of
which are evergreen, and from amongst these
should rise well separated groups of tall and
medium-sized plants. This produces the neatest
effect that can be got with hardy plants, and
avoids weediness on the one side and formality
on the other. In the placing of the plants their
foliage and habit should be contrasted as much
as possible.

Trailing plants , such as Tropa'olums and
Convolvulus, can be used to hide bare patches,
where early flowering plants have died down,
and late flowering plants can be used as sun¬
shades for such early flowering plants as require
it. There should be no arranging of the plants
in rows or attempts to gradate them from back
to front as regards height. The tallest plants
as a rule may be placed at the back of the bed,
if it has a back, or towards the centre, if not;
but most of the plants should be seen clear from
base to summit when at their best, and many
groups of rather tall and medium-sized plants
should approach the front line. This allows
tall plants to develop their best habit and
greatest beauty, and so treated they remain
much longer in bloom. In a small garden even
the smallest space is important, and the
edgings, if made 18 inches wide of stones or
bricks half sunk in the ground, can be covered
with rock plants, which are always neat, and
look better than any formal edging.

In tiie Cultivation of a Small Garden

The first difficulty the amateur is likely to
meet with is the absence of anything worthy of
the name of soil. When land is let for building
purposes the soil is very often sold and carted
away, or mixed with the plaster of the walls
and ceilings, and the unlucky tenant is left to
make what he can of the raw subsoil. When a
house has been previously occupied matters are
rarely better, as the soil is almost certain to
have received little or no manure for years, and
to be completely exhausted. In such cases the
beds should be made of fresh, good soil from
a country district, the top spit of an old pas¬
ture in preference. Having provided a soil in
which plants can grow, the next thing is to keep
it in good condition. This can only De done by
adding fresh plant food as that which the
soil contains becomes exhausted. The easiest
manure to obtain in towns is stable manure;
this is too strong to use in a fresh state, and
should be rotted for a year. This need create
no difficulty, as a hotbed is a useful appliance
in a garden, and will utilise the dung while it
is rotting. All vegetable refuse from the
kitchen should be carefully laid up to rot, as
well as all Grass mowings and weeds which
have not seeded. All trimmings of shrubs
should be charred, and withered leaves laid up
in heaps. By top-dressing the plants with the
rotted products of these various heaps they will
be kept in robust health, which means, besides
a beautiful bloom, freedom from insect pests and
slugs and snails, to all of which healthy vegeta¬
tion is distasteful.

Bad soil, bad (jtiltiVation. and |neglect of

Digitized by

manuring have more to do with failure in town
and suburban gardens than anything which is
unavoidable. It is very difficult to describe in
words the appearance of a good soil as distin¬
guished from a barren one, but the growth of
the plants will generally show whether the soil
is suitable. A light uncultivated soil can be
more quickly made suitable for plants than a
heavy loam or a clay. Where the latter has to
be dealt with it is best to avoid permanent
planting for some years to allow of the soil being
properly broken up and made lighter. A good
garden soil is generally dark in colour, as that
of old market garden ground, but many good
soils are of a much lighter tint, lied, brown,
or purple soils often develop intense colours in
flowers with the help of good cultivation, but
light colours lose their paleness in them, and
white flowers sometimes become tinted. Con¬
siderable thought is required in the placing of
the plants in a small garden or a muddle will be
the result.

In a large garden, plants requiring distinct
soil and management can be widely separated,
but in a small garden this cannot be done ; all
that is practicable is to separate plants requir¬
ing distinct soils and treatment by those which
require intermediate ones.

{To be continued.)

HALF-HARDY BEDDING PLANTS

Wherever many half-hardy plants are bedded
out in summer, a great deal of propagating has to
be done ; and although much of it can be accom¬
plished in spring, there are many things that
need attention now. Pelargoniums, which are
always in great demand for flower-bed decora¬
tion, are best propagated in the autumn. Old
plants of them may be taken up later on and
wintered in the hope of having a good many of
them suitable for bedding out again next
season ; but such plants require a great deal of
room, and much attention in winter, and after
all it is difficult to save them or get them into
proper condition for future use. Old plants
should only be saved where there is nothing to
make cuttings of, and in all cases where any¬
thing like fairly good cuttings can be secured
they should be used. They are the easiest to
preserve and store away in winter, and, besides,
they make the best plants in spring. We have
just put in a good many thousand cuttings,
and by being careful as to how w'e cut the
plants in the beds, it is astonishing how little
they are missed. As a rule, we remove
three cuttings from every plant, and in doing
this we are careful not to tako the whole off one
side of the plant, or disfigure it in any way.
There is, however, no danger of doing this if
the shoots are only thinned out, or where many
of them are much above the others they may
always be removed. The flowerless shoots are
those which should be taken for cuttings.
Where the flower garden has to appear as
perfect as possible at the present time some
may be inclined to leave the propagation of
their Pelargoniums until further on, but that
should not be done, as the later in the season
the more difficult is it to get the cuttings to
root before winter sets in, and if not well
rooted in autumn there is always much danger
of many of them decaying during winter. If
put in at once every one of them should be
rooted by the end of September, and in a mouth
after that they should be established plants ;
then not one in a hundred will perish. I dislike
very large cuttings, and also very small ones ;
medium-sized ones are best. A cutting 8 inches
or 10 inches in length I call large, and one only
3 inches or so long is too small ; one about 5
inches or 6 inches in length always makes the
best plant. Very soft, juicy growths are not
the best; those hardened with age and sunshine
are the soundest. Careful cutting and selecting
do not apply to Pelargoniums only ; they should
also be borne in mind in dealing with all kinds
of plants. In beginning

Autumn propagation everything should be
prepared to carry on this work speedily when
once set agoing. Soil should be mixed up,
boxes and pots should be got ready, and an
understanding should lie come to as to the num¬
ber of each plant to be propagated before ever
the beds are broken into. Let one kind be
begun and finished before another sort is taken
in hand. If GOO or 5,000, as the case may be,

were sufficient last season, do not put more in
this. An increase of stock without any special
object in view often leads to confusion in winter.
It is much better to have 1,000 properly wintered
plants in spring than three times that number
badly grown. As to the best soil in which to
root the cuttings, it may be well to point out
that they do not require anything very special
in that way. Very often we use a quantity of
the old soil which accumulates in the potting
shed for cuttings, and when a new mixture is
employed we can use nothing better than two
parts fine loam, one leaf-soil or old Mushroom
bed manure, and the other part sand. Cuttings
root freely in this, and after standing in it all
winter they will turn out with plenty of fibrous
roots the following spring.

Wooden boxes are the best for cuttings—
these our garden carpenter makes; they
measure 2 feet 6 inches in length, 15 inches in
width, and 4 inches deep. Each of the*e holds
fifty Pelargonium cuttings, and we find this a
more compact way of dealing with them than
putting them into flower-pots. As the cuttings
are dibbled in they are made very firm, as
this is the only way in which we can get them
to root quickly, and immediately afterwards
they are placed in the open air fully exposed
to the sun; here they remain until rooted,
and indeed until there is danger of their being
injured by frost late in the autumn. Pelar¬
gonium cuttings require in autumn no shelter
from frames or glass; on the contrary, the
more exposed and nardy they can be grown, the
letter they pass through the winter. Iresines,
Mesembryanthemums, and other things of
which we secure stock now, are rooted in 5-inch
and 6-inch pots as a rule, and the same
soil is used for them ; but, being a little more
tender, they are generally placed in a frame
where they can be slightly shaded from sun¬
shine, until they begin to root, when they are
fully exposed. Calceolarias, Pentstemons, and
similar things are dibbled in large quantities
into a cold frame in some good rooting mix¬
ture ; and if frames are not plentiful, they aro
put in along the bottom of a south wall. C.

Pentstemons. —These are at present in full
beauty, and exceedingly effective in the form of
single specimens or in clumps in herbaceous
borders. The main stems are now furnished
with seed-pods, and if seeds are not wanted the
pods should be picked off as soon as formed ; if
this is done the plants will flower freely until
frost comes. If the pods are allowed to remain
and exhaust the plants, the bloom will very
soon be over.—J.

Perpetual Carnations from seed.—
Raising these from seed will be found to be as
interesting as raising Auriculas. There is the
same delightful uncertainty about w’hat you are
going to have, as the selected colours sold in
collections only guarantee that the seeds were
saved from the colours named, which is not
much of a guide, seeing that you may have
many colours and varieties from the same
seed-pod if you grow your own seed. The best
time to sow is early in spring, under glass, with
just a touch of bottom-heat to start germination.
The seeds are as large as those of the Sweet
William, and the best way is to take the seed-
pan indoors, and put each seed in its place with
the tip of a quill pen in rows nearly 2 inches
apart. Ordinary soil will do perfectly, and
cover barely a quarter of an inch ; just covered
will do better if a sheet of glass can be placed
over the pan to prevent evaporation. Plenty
of air must be given, and the sooner the plants
are in the open air the better after the second pair
of leaves is formed. The most forward plants
should be lifted and potted into 6-inch pots when
they have made three pairs of leaves, the holes
being filled with fresh soil. The weaker and
later ones can be helped with a very weak dose
of liquid manure. Genuine Peruvian guano, a
tablespoonful to a pail of water, I find to answer
well. Perpetual-flowering Carnations assume a
variety of habits, and in order to suit these I
recommend potting off from the seed pans.
When the young plant sends out a number of
branching shoots up the stem it will have more
or loss of a climbing or tree habit, w’hile, if a
bush of shoots spring from the collar, the plant
will most likely have the habit of continually
simdirijFup new flowering shoow ; many, how-

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

August 23, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

£87

ever, have the moderate growth of the ordinary
Carnation. I have not had any pipings grow
so strongly as the seedlings. Strong-growing
•eedlings want 3 feet each to give room for free
development. —J.

Sowing seeds of hardy flowers.—
Most hardy annuals, biennials, and perennials
will do better if sown in August than if the
sowing be delayed till spring. Not only is it
the most natural time for sowing, but the
land is usually warmer and the seeds lie a
shorter time in the ground before germinating ;
they consequently produce a stronger and
healthier plant, and they are less liable to be
eaten off by insects ; and, lastly, much time is

S ined, for, instead of sowing the seeds in
arch, you have young hardy plants ready to
put out. Seeds of hardy biennials and peren¬
nials are best sown in well-drained ground
arranged in small beds for the convenience of
weeding, thinning, and lifting the plants. The
soil should be well worked, and, if too dry,
should be well soaked with water twelve hours
before sowing. The seeds may either be sown
broadcast or in shallow drills across the beds ;
the latter plan is the l>e8t, because it gives
facilities for stirring the soil between the rows
of small plants. The drills can be made by
pressing a 4 foot rod or straight-edge into the
soil the required depth, according to the size of
the seeds —h inch will be deep enough for small
seeds—and when the seeds are sown thinly in
the drills, cover lightly with finely sifted soil.
If the weather be hot and dry, shade by laying
mats or similar coverings on the ground ; they
must, however, be removed as soon as the young
plants appear.—R. A.

Lilium candidum. — Much has been
written in praise of other Lilies, but this, to my
thinking the purest and most lovely of all,
seldom gets noticed. I have seen it as good, or
better, in cottagers’ gardens than I have any¬
where else. This may arise through the little
digging and delving their borders get compared
with those in more ambitious places, where such
things get frequently disturbed in preparing the
ground for its summer occupants. Be this as it
may, certain it is that one seldom sees this good
old white Lily in the gardens of the wealthy,
and some complain that they cannot get it to
succeed. To those I would say plant it mode¬
rately deep in sharp, gritty soil, and afterwards
leave it alone.—D.

Lilium auratum is now opening its great
golden-rayed flowers in a sheltered corner where
a little three-light frame or pit was especially
built for it two or three years ago. The lights pro¬
tect its bulbs from too much wet in winter and
shelter its young growths in the spring, after
which the lights are removed to allow room for
the stout growths. One stout stem, near on
6 feet in height, bears twelve or fourteen flowers.
Bulbs of the common scarlet Gladiolus Brench-
leyensisare planted amongst the Lilies, and these
make an effective display later on in the season,
but our reason for planting them is that their
foliage may shade the lower portions of the Lily
sterns from direct sunshine. Every season’s ex¬
perience convinces me that it is wet during
winter, and not cold, which destroys the bulbs
of Lilium auratum. This next planting season
we hope to plant some roots on the sunny side
of a Privet hedge, where the roots of the Privet
keep the earth dry. Some bulbs planted in
amongst the roots of dwarf Roses in a sunny
corner have done well for the past two years.

Tying 1 out Dahlias. —We have a long
row of mixed colours, single varieties, which are
backed up with an evergreen hedge (Cupressus
Law’soniana), and, having run strings along sup¬
ported by stems of the Cupressus, the Dahlias
have been tied up in a flat spreading fashion, and
the colours, which are white, scarlet, pink,
yellow, and purple, in regular succession, pro
duce a very novel effect, and which is all the
more telling owing to the glaucous green back
ground to which they are trained. In com

K riaon with the usual mode of supports for
ihlias, of course taking into account position,
the odds are greatly in favour of this spreading
out fashion.

Tricolor Pelargoniums.— When taken
up from the beds these should be crammed into
as small pots as possible ; and if they can be
plunged into a gentle bottom-heat for i week or
so it will much benefifohjmjTy L’h 'tejujl^filants

are very apt to waste away in winter from
w r ant of root action. When thus treated, how¬
ever, they form a fresh lot of fibre, which enables
them better to stand the dark months. These
same old plants, if well attended to in the early
part of the year, will furnish cuttings in early
spring. It is, indeed, better to cut them back,
even if only for the purpose of making the re¬
maining plants themselves more uniform and
dwarf. The cuttings, if cut back to the old
wood, will, if placed in a genial temperature,
make good plants the same season ; and the old
plants, if kept near the glass, and with the
advantage of artificial heat, will break and form
fine bushy material ; they should, however, on
no account be cut back unless they can receive
the care described, as, if not thus treated, they
are liable to die gradually away. In a cold
house they fail to break again, owing to the
torpidity of the root, which a low temperature
induces. The cuttings should be inserted in
3-inch pots, and placed upon a shelf in the full
light; no shading or coddling of any kind is
necessary. They will then root freely, and
there will be no danger of their damping off.—F.

Annual Sunflowers.— There are now in
cultivation about a dozen varieties of the
common Sunflower (Helianthus annuus), which
will make a fine display in shrubberies and
other parts of the garden during autumn.
The annexed woodcut represents a mon¬
strosity consisting in having several secon¬
dary flowers produced from the disk of the
parent flower. These small secondary flowers

Proliferous bloom of the common annual Sunflower
(Helianthus annuus).

appear to be quite perfect, having ray and disk
florets and a green involucre as in the large
flower-head. The varieties of Sunflower most
worthy of notice are Helianthus globosus fistu-
losus, from 4 feet to 5 feet high, very fine, a
double variety of a pure yellow colour, with a
shade of green over the petals in the centre ;
II. globosus multiflorus, very double, and one of
the best; it grows from 5 feet to 6 feet high,
and is very free flowering; H. nanus foliis
variegatis, from 4 feet to 5 feet high, colour of
flower distinct, being a pale lemon yellow ; H.
nanus ft-pi., 5 feet high, florets after a time
very much reflexed ; H. nanus simplex, 4 feet to
5 feet high, pretty and distinct; H. peruvianus,
5 feet high, habit of growth good, much
branched and very free flowering, flowers from
4 inches to 5 inches across, single and hand¬
some ; H. argophyllus, 4 feet high, silvery
foliage, habit branching and fairly free bloom¬
ing, flowers 4 inches across, single, and star¬
shaped ; H. cucumerifolius, 4 feet, branching,
flowers rather small and single, but pretty, and
they last well in winter ; H. califomicus fl.-pl.,
from 5 feet to 6 feet high, a grand flower and
the deepest in colour of all the varieties, one of
the finest; H. centrochlorus fl.-pl., from 5 feet
to 6 feet high, handsome large double blooms
appearing to come quilled ; H. uniflorus, an
extremely fine variety, growing from 6 feet to
7 feet high, flower large, flat, single, distinct,
centre black ; H. macrophyllus giganteus, from
10 feet to 12 feet in height, flow’era large and
flat petalled, centre generally green. The seed
of all these may be sown early in April in pots
and raised in a cold frame, the plants being

hardened off and put out in June. When
grown finely these Sunflowers are very hand¬
some objects, and if properly placed are capable
of producing very fine effects. They amply re¬
pay good culture, and continue to bloom until
cut down by frosts.

Single Pyrethrums. —Those are flowering
with us for the second time this season. Their
flowers are not so large as the early blooms, but
they are most useful to cut from now that single
flowers are so much in request. To secure a good
second crop of flowers, the plants require to be
grown in good soil, and they ought not to remain
more than one year in the same position. Early
in the spring when the plants begin to grow we
lift them with all the roots possible, and
transfer them to another place on the border.
This gives them a change of soil, and the way
in which the plants thrive show that they like
the change.— J. C. C.

White African Lily.— The white variety
of Agapanthus umbellatus is now beautifully in
flower with me, and is a fine companion plant to
the better known kind, of which it is in all re¬
spects a counterpart, except that the blossoms,
instead of being Blue, are pure white. It is an
admirable conservatory plant, and the indi¬
vidual flowers can be gathered and used for
small arrangements of cut bloom, such as for
wreaths and button-holes.— H.

Hydrangeas in autumn.— As a late
flowering plant for permanent beds, or for
groups springing from the turf, few plants are
more effective than the old pink Hydrangea,
which under certain conditions of soil or climate
sports into a variety of shades of blue. We have
some beds sheltered by Conifers that form
strikingly beautiful objects when in flower,
the large massive heads of bloom bending down
the branches, and the various shades of colour
very singular in plants each growing within a
few yards of the other, and treated in the same
way in every respect; some are bright pink and
others pale blue. Hydrangeas will grow in any
fairly good garden soil, and when once planted
only need dead wood and weakly straggling
shoots removed to make handsome bushes. They
strike readily from cuttings, and the points of
strong flowering shoots put into small pots now
will make good dwarf flowering plants next
summer. In districts where the winters are
severe the Hydrangea will well repay a little
temporary protection, such as that afforded by
Bracken, Fern, or Spruce Fir branches.— J.

Good September hardy flowers.—I
have the following in flower in my garden, all
of which I consider admirable and quite worth
growing. They are, Achillea serrata fl.-pl.
alba, very useful for bouquets; Anemone
japonica elegans and A. japonica Honorine
Jooert; Algerian Marguerites (Chrysanthe¬
mum tricolor), which grow wild on the coast
of Algiers; Anemone chrysanthemnpflora La
Brilliaute, very fine from May plantings ; A.
fulgens, quite out of season, from May plantings
in easterly aspect; A. pavonia, the Double Pea¬
cock Anemone, brilliant scarlet. Begonia De¬
fiance, from Germany, a really fine sort, as
good as I have seen yet. Coreopsis lanceolata,
most useful, and produces fine effect planted
alternately with Paragon Dahlia. Carnation
Grenadin : This splendid variety forms a red
line 200 feet long. Gladioli, Lemoine’s hybrids
—viz., Lemoinei and M. Lemoine : These in¬
crease wonderfully well with me. Helichrysum
bracteatum vars., most useful to cut now and
dry for wreaths in winter. Iberis gibraltarica
hybrids : This has been in flower since April.
I intend potting all my plants next year, being
well wortn it. Leptosyne maritima, a very fine
Composite which Mr. Thompson, of Ipswich,
introduced to commerce some years since.
Lobelia cardinalis Queen Victoria : magnificent
in beds of Centaurea. Loasa vulcanica : I do
not like this ; it stings, and you are apt to
forget when gathering flowers. Mcnziesia
polifolia bicolor : I wish I could get this to do
better. My ground is rather dry. Mimulus
New Duplex : I had this sort from Paris this
year ; I have some forms promising to be really
fine. Montbretia crocosrmeflora, Continental :
Cost me too much money, but a fine plant when
it can be got at a reasonable price. Montbretia
Pottsi: The parent of the preceding, a nice
thing in pots. Okyura chrysanthemoides, an
u initial Composite, andthe gem of my gulden this
season. T shall never lie without it. Pyrethrums,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGPJ

288

'GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 23, 1884.

seedling single forms: Rudbeckia purpurea.
Pyrethrum, double hybrid : Common, but fine
for cutting. Potentilla, double forms, cut-and-
come-again flowers for wide borders ; Sultan,
yellow, sweet scented, a puzzle to many to know
what it is. Scabious, German, double forms ;
my boy calls this the bee flower, as bees arc
always lighted on them. Viola Imperator
(Reading variety), rich plum colour, in flower
since March ; I consider it one of the best. Viola
Nannie (Reading variety), a dwarf blue sort,
not more than 4 inches to 6 inches ; I also con¬
sider this one of the best grown for narrow lines.
The Etoile d’Or Chrysanthemum I have planted
out for the sake of colour and quantity of
bloom.—W. B.

Spring bulbs. —Next March or April some
thousands of people will be delighted with the
golden and bicolor or Hoop-pctticoat Daffodils,
with the rich blue of Scilla sibirica and the
bright stars of Chionodoxa, and there will be
exclamations of “ Oh ! how beautiful,” or “I
wish we could have these lovely flowers in our
garden.” It may interest many to know that
now is the best time to obtain bulbs for pot
culture or for planting out in the open air for
next season’s flowering. All the best kinds of
Daffodils are easily grown in pots ; all they
want is shelter in the greenhouse, any great
amount of heat being fatal to their beauty. Potted
now and buried in ashes near a north wall, the
bulbs soon produce roots and can be brought
out into a cold frame or placed in the green¬
house as soon as the pots are filled with roots.
The following are gooa varieties for pot culture :
Narcissus maximus, major, bicolor, Horsfieldi,
princeps obvallaris, Bulbocodium, odorus,
Jonquilla, and any of the N. Tazetta or poly-
anthos (bunch Daffodil) groups.

11840. — Planting a garden with
flowers. —I have a very small garden which I
made in a back yard, and which I keep full of
flowers nearly all the year round. My plan is
to grow only old-fashioned plants, which I
think are the best, as they are hardy, and look
pretty, and suit my pocket best. I have a
brick wall running the whole length of my bed,
and I plant Wallflowers and Stocks (Inter¬
mediate) alternately, and here and there a
clump of Chrysanthemums, three Dahlias, one
at each end and one in the centre, a penny
packet of each of Candytuft, Pansies,
Nasturtiums, Sweet Peas, Ten-week Stocks, and
Asters ensure a display of flowers all the
summer, not forgetting a packet of Mignonette.
All these pretty annuals are better sown in
thumb-pots early in March. I keep them in
the kitchen window or in a spare bedroom, and
they can be turned out, earth and all, where
they are wanted as other flowers die, such as
Crocuses and Snowdrops. If “B. W. E. ” is
going to make such a garden now, let him get
all the road scrapings he can and well work into
the soil, then purchase a few Wallflower plants
and a few Queen, Intermediate, or Brompton
Stocks, or a few of each if he likes, and form a
good background, and in October let him pur¬
chase a few dozen Crocus and Snowdrop bulbs,
and make a row of each in front of the Stocks
and Wallflowers, and then purchase enough
red and white Daisies to fill up the front, and
in spring he will have a very pretty and cheap
show. Sow the above-mentioned annuals in
March to fill up with, as the bulbs die, and be
sure to plant Virginia Stock near the Daisies, as
they look very shabby in the middle of the
summer, and the Virginian Stock will com¬
pletely hide them, and when they, in their
turn, have done, the Daisies will begin to bloom
again, and so keep up a succession. If
“ B. W. E.” cotild get a few cuttings of
Chrysanthemums and strike them in a pot they
would be very handy to put in and out among
the Wallflowers, to bloom in the autumn. By
following the above plan “ B. W. E.” can have
plenty of pretty flowers from February to
November, and often later than that, at the
nominal cost of 5s. per annum.—F. H. K.

11811.—Plants bare at bottom. —
Perennial Phloxes go bare of leaves at the
bottom through mismanagement. There is one
certain error in “Sicnarf’s ” treatment, namely,
the forking in of the manure in spring. Phloxes
make a thick mat of roots near the surface, and
search every particle of the soil for food and
moisture ; they also start into growth early.
Any disturbance of ther>ground

Digitizedby LtOQ

about them

gte

means wholesale destruction of roots and a
check to the plants, which hardens the lower
parts of the stems and make them drop their
leaves. It cannot be too widely known that the
greatest part of the vital energy of plants is
concentrated in the tips of the feeding rootlets,
there cells form most quickly, and any injury to
these rootlets weakens the life of the plant.
Any disturbance of the soil about a plant should
be well clear of the roots, and should never be
done while the roots are growing. A light hoe¬
ing of the surface that does not go deep enough
to disturb the roots will do good and not harm ;
but that is impracticable in the case of shallow¬
rooting plants like Phloxes. I do not find they
take kindly to manure unless rotted to powder
and mixed with the soil before planting. The
only way to get a really £ood bloom is to strike
cuttings early every spring, and plant out in
good well-prepared soil in April, keeping the
plants growing straight on from the first. They
may be left in the borders a second year, but
only a few very strong and mostly inferior roots
will grow on from year to year without moving.
In a hot dry season some varieties seem to get
scorched, and are better planted behind some¬
thing which will shelter the lower parts of their
stems from the sun.—J. D.

11835.—Carnations dying off.— They are dying
from a disease for which I have not yet heard of a cure.
If the decayed parts are put under a microscope small
insects will be found on them, but they are not supposed
to be the cause of it. The steins swell and burst open
near the surface of the ground. Layer the young shoots
at once, and cut off the shoots from those that arc dying,
and put in as pipings (cuttings).—J. D. K.

11825.—Carnations and Picotees —After the
pipings and layers have been taken there will not be any¬
thing left except the old stumps, which will be entirely de¬
nuded of the Grass. The best way will bo to leave them
in the ground, w'hen probably a few growths may be
formed during the autumn. The layers and pipings of
the show varieties should be wintered in pots in a cold
frame.—J. D. E.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

The early batches of tuberous Begonias will
now begin to lose vigour, and must be gradually
put to rest by withholding water and placing
them in a dry warm frame or other position
fully exposed to the sun. The fine old Ery-
thrina Crista-galli will now be fast approach¬
ing the flowering-stage, and if the plants have
been well and liberally treated during the
growing reason, a fine display of blossom will be
the result. The stock of early flowering soft-
wooded Heaths will now be setting and swelling
their flower-buds, and while in this stage must
not be allowed to suffer from any lack of water
at the root, otherwise many of the flowers will
dry up on the plants when they are about half
grown. These and Kpacrises should now occupy
positions fully exposed to the sun. Roses in
pots intended to produce flowers during autumn
must now be kept perfectly clean and free from
aphides and other pests. All autumn-flowering
plants, such as Chrysanthemums, Salvias, &c.,
will now be getting pot-bound, and must be
liberally fed with liquid manure in order to
keep their foliage fresh and healthy. Cuttings
of Ralosanthes, Hydrangeas, and of any other
plants that are rooted should be potted without
delay in order to get them established before
winter. Among bulbous plants that are now in
beauty, the Tritonia aurea and several varieties
of the Tigridia are the best ; the latter especially
are very striking and effective when grown in
pots.

Camellias. —Any of the latest flowered
plants which have been late in making their
growth will be now about setting their buds,
and in the case of those that want more root
room, they should at once be placed in either
larger pots or tubs, as by being moved now their
flowering during the coming spring will be little
affected, and through the autumn they will
have time to root into the new soil, which will
evidently place them in a much better position
for making growth next year than if the potting
were deferred until after they had bloomed in
the spring, when their roots are in the tenderest
condition. Those who have not potted these
plants in this stage of their growth will, if they
give it a trial, find it the best. Camellias are
plants that require little training, and should
not be submitted to the twisting and inter¬
lacing sometimes practised, and when they have
got into a thin straggling state heading down is

often the best remedy. But yet with plants in
such a condition any strong branches may with
advantage be tied in to a moderate extent when
the work is done, so as not to give them a
formal appearance ; but branches so treated
should not be bent down too much, or
they generally cease to make further growth
from the points, simply pushing out young
shoots where bent.

Flower Garden.

Daily look over vases and plants plunged in
pots, and see that they get plenty of water,
with which, if the drainage is good, they can
hardly be overdone ; but if any indications of
stagnant water at the root are observed take
them out at once, and replace the drainage with
fresh clean potsherds. Carpet beds and edgings
will need frequent pinching or clipping and
plenty of water, as if Alternantheras get seedy
they quickly lose their brilliant colouring. It
will now be quite time to propagate such tender
plants as are kept from cuttings propagated
annually. Coleus Verschaffelti and Iresines
should be got in, a few pots or pans of them
being enough to stock a large garden in spring.
Alternantheras we lift as soon as the beauty of
the beds fail, and plant thickly in boxes, when,
if pulled to pieces in spring, they yield abund¬
ance of rooted plants.

The main stock of Pelargoniums may now be
put in ; many still prefer the plan of striking
them on open borders and lifting and potting
them about the end of September, but we find
putting them moderately thick in shallow boxes
to be the most expeditious way ; and when well
rooted, they always winter well if rather dry
and well ventilated on all favoured: le occasions.
In the reserve garden transplanting spring
flowering plants and pricking off seedlings will
be the principal occupations. Keep all the Prim¬
rose tribe moist, as they are very impatient of
drought in any stage of growth. Pansies that
have done flowering may be cut back, in order
that they may become furnished with young
growth before winter sets in.

Whatever alteration is to be made in the
arrangement of the flower garden in the ensuing
season in these matters can only be adequately
provided for by being determined upon at the
present time, so as to admit of the necessary
propagation of the plants required. Wallflowers,
Foxgloves, Sweet Williams, Dianthus, and other
plants of similar nature, that were sown earlier
in the summer, will now be ready for transplant¬
ing from the seed-bed. Chose for them an open
situation, the soil of which should be light, so
that when in the spring they are removed to
their flowering quarters, this can be done with¬
out so much injury to the roots as when grown
in adhesive ground. For everything of this kind
the soil must not be too rich, as over-luxuriance
should be avoided in all that can be injured by
a severe winter. Put in the plants at a distance
of 8 inches or 10 inches apart; if they are too
much crowded they get drawn, and are corre¬
spondingly weak.

The Shrubbery.

There is no time in the year when evergreens
can be more successfully transplanted than from
the end of August to the beginning of October ;
but the earlier in September the better ; there
is no necessity to wait for showery weather,
not even if the soil be apparently so dry as to
contain little moisture. In fact, the heat that
is in it when in this state is one of the first
requisites as regards success, on account of its
assisting to promote the immediate formation of
roots ; whereas, if removed late in autumn,
when the temperature of both the air amd earth
is reduced, by waning sun-heat and chilling rains,
all this advantage is lost. In planting, how¬
ever, whilst the soil is in the dry condition above
described, it is imperative that every plant
should be thoroughly soaked with water when
it is replanted. Phis should not be done by
half measures ; on the contary, the whole of the
soil that is put in round the roots down to the
bottom of the whole should bo effectually
moistened. Where this is done the formation
of new roots commences immediately, and this
siu^le thorough watering will generally be found
sufficient. If any doubts be entertained as to
roots being formed immediately after planting
at this season, an inspection, say a month after
wards, will soon dispel them; for those
whp will take the trouble to look at the [joint of

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

August 23, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

289

every root that has been severed will observe a
quantity of young fibres which will enable the
plant to resist the most severe winter that may
ensue, and ready to supply the demands made
by spring growth. Each shrub, as soon as it
is taken up, should be immediately replanted,
not allowing the roots to have time to dry. In
this there must be no delay ; indeed, this early
removal is only to be recommended where shrubs
can immediately be placed in the new positions
assigned to them from one part of the garden
to another.

Fruit

Vines.— Houses of late Grapes intended for
keeping through the winter will now require
liberal ventilation, with gentle fire heat, in order
to secure the perfect maturation of fruit and
wood by the end of September. Reduce strong
laterals where they have been allowed to run to
a considerable length, but at the same time
guard against exposing the bunches to the sun,
as black Grapes always colour best under a good
canopy of healthy foliage. Klack Morocco and
Madresfield Court Muscat, two varieties liable
to crack if heavily watered or allowed to hang
in a damp, stagnant atmosphere, should be
heavily mulched to prevent the escape of
moisture from the borders. Muscats, now quite
ripe, must be closely watched, and if necessary
slightly shaded with Haythorn’s hexagon net¬
ting through the hottest part of the day. If the
roots are in external borders some kind of cover¬
ing should be held in readiness for throwing off
heavy falls of rain. Gradually reduce the tem¬
perature of the house, using no more fire heat
than is absolutely necessary to prevent the
berries from damping, and ventilate freely on
fine days. In cold, unfavourable situations,
Vines should always have the run of internal,
as wall as external, borders, which should be
well concreted and drained. Use new turf,
with an admixture of old lime rubble, crushed
bones, and burnt earth. Apply manure as a
mulching in preference to mixing it with the
compost, and aim at narrow borders well filled
with roots, which can be easily protected or
excited, as circumstances may dictate, always
bearing in mind that Grapes invariably set and
colour best when the latter are under the control
of the cultivator.

Hardy fruit. —Choice Pears on walls will
require netting to protect them from the depre¬
dations of blackbirds and tomtits. Ordinary
fishing-nets will answer the purpose. Straw berry
plantations may still be made there, as in many
places runners have neither been plentiful nor
good. To secure a good stock of clean, early
runners for potting or planting, a few rows of
each kind should be planted out every year.
These should be well watered and mulched and
divested of all flower-stems as they throw up in
the spring. Trim out old beds and leave the
ground clear for the present to ripen the crowns
and surface roots, before the mulching is put on
in the autumn. Dress out old Raspberry canes,
and tie the young ones up to prevent them
getting injured by wind. Gathering fruit as it
ripens is now an important point, and requires
great attention. Fruits must not be gathered
when wet, or in hot, sunny weather, and they
must be handled very gently. In the case of the
early Pears it is not well to leave them on the
trees until they are quite ripe ; and, as a rule,
they should be gathered a day or two before
they are in that condition, otherwise they are
apt to become dry and rotten at the core.
Remove all unnecessary lateral growths, and
expose the fruits as freely as possible. Morello
Cherries should now. all be gathered, the trees
thoroughly cleared of vermin, and the new shoots
of the current year nailed or tied in. The liga¬
tures of grafts ought now to be removed, and
the shoots produced by the stocks should be
kept rubbed off. In some instances, such as
where the union has not been properly esta¬
blished, a temporary tie may be requisite, in
order to prevent injury from wind-waving.

Vegetables.

Sow again if necessary, and thin out, as soon
u the plants can be handled, Winter Spinach,
Turnips, Radishes, and Lettuces—timely thin¬
ning out of these is of the utmost importance,
in order that the plants may grow up sturdily
and bo the better able to withstand the winter.
As Potatoes, Onions, and J£eas are harv^ted or
cleared away, fill up tjfe vacant grxmill with
Cabbages, Cole worts, .f hli. im¬

mediately required for cropping, or have to be
left fallow for trenching, weeds and exhausted
crop should at once be cleared off to prevent
unnecessary impoverishment of the land. Keep
all Beans closely picked off as they become fit
for use ; the plants will then bear for a con¬
siderable time longer without exhaustion. If
runners are cut back 2 ft. or 3 ft., all the old
pods being removed, and are given a good water¬
ing and mulching, they soon break into fresh
lateral growth, and fruit as freely as at first.

Give abundance of water to Celery prior to
earthing up, and occasionally dust over the rows
with soot and wood-ashes as a preventive against
the attacks of fly. Harvest herbs ; they dry
and retain their colour best when hung up in a
draughty, sunless shed. Parsley to stand the
winter should be given plenty of space and the
dryest position in the garden. Keep Tomatoes
to single stems and the foliage thin. Both ridge
Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows mildew
badly, and to check it we find it necessary to
break off the worst leaves and to give abundant
supplies of water. Examine them daily to cut
all fruit as ready. Preparations will now have
to be made anent the forcing of French Beans
and the supply of salads by getting the pits or
frames into working order. Beans ought to be
at once sown, and allowed to grow on naturally
till there is danger from frost.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

Berberis aristata. —In a recent issue of
Gardening mention is made of the above plant,
but two of its valuable properties are omitted,
viz., that it is all but an evergreen ; also that
when from 4 to 5 feet high it makes a fence
which animals, whether two or four-footod,
will not readily attempt to force—its spines
are not merely very sharp, but leave a sting
which w r ill be felt for 24 hours or more. I have
had it for over 20 years, mostly raised from
seed, from plants supplied to me some 25 years
since.—W. D. Paine, Ret gate.

Planting trees and shrubs. — Ever¬
greens may be safely transplanted by the end
of the month ; the natural warmth of the soil
at that season induces the formation of new
roots. Should the weather be dry a good
watering at the time of planting will be benefi¬
cial. Prune and cut back all straggling branches
in order to keep the plants in proper shape and
within due bounds. In planting town villas
use a good mixture of Rhododendrons, as they
are not easily destroyed by smoke, and afford
t eat variety both as regards flower and foliage,
n trenching and preparing ground for Rhodo¬
dendrons in the vicinity of new buildings be
careful that no lime rubbish gets mixed up with
the soil, as they never thrive if their roots
come into contact with lime or chalk. The
following is a list of trees and shrubs well
adapted for town planting, viz., Hodgins’ Holly,
Aucuba japonica, Ghent Azaleas of different
sorts, Berberises, Cotoneasters, Elder, Dog¬
wood, Guelder Rose, Ivies, Laurustinuses,
Lilacs, flowering Currants, Roses, Robinia
hispida complexa (which makes a fine centre
plant for a group), Birch, Alder, Laburnum,
Mountain Ash, Laurels, Periwinkle, Privet,
Service Tree, Planes, Skimmias, &c. ; these are
a few of the best for planting in smoky dis¬
tricts. The common Thom and its varieties
also are not only hardy, but highly ornamental,
and deserve a place in every collection.

Propagating Ivy. — Ivy cuttings will
strike with certainty if put in now, for the
shoots that are now' getting firm are mostly
furnished with embryo rootlets, and if put into
a shaded position and kept moist, very few w ill
fail to grow. Of the common Ivy, if good
large cuttings can be procured, dibble them in
at the foot of a north wall. But variegated
choice varieties may be put in under cloches or
bell-glasses, let them remain until next May
before removing them. The best plan is to pot
them and plunge the pots, inserting a stout
stake to which to tie the shoots. —J.

Autumn v. spring planting. —The time
for planting trees being nearly at hand, it
would be interesting and useful to compare
notes as regards the results of autumn and
spring planting during the past season. On the
whole, a more trying time as regards new
plantations has rarely occurred. In the early

part there was a continuous rain, which left the
land saturated ; then a dry time set in, and an
almost constantly prevailing east wind, which
continued, at least in this locality, and from
accounts seemed to be general, till the end of
April, yet with us the early autumn-planted
trees did best; the latest worst. Here the
climate and soil are unfavourable, the rainfall
is exessive, and generally accompanied by
strong easterly or westerly winds. There may
be situations and soils where spring planting is
to be preferred, but such is the exception;
early autumn planting on the whole will be found,
I apprehend, most successful.—J. J., Preston.

Propagating Japanese Privet and
Garry a elliptica. —Cuttings of these should
be taken now the young shoots are about half
ripened, and kept close in a cold frame till
rooted. They should consist wholly of the
current year’s growth, with just sufficient leaves
removed for purposes of insertion, but no more.
Get some 6-inch pots, drain them well, and fill
them with sandy soil pressed down rather firmly,
then insert about a dozen cuttings in each pot,
give a thorough watering, and the operation is
complete. In this way many of the cuttings
will root during the autumn, and the others
will do so very early in the spring, when they
may be potted or planted out, but the better
plan is to pot them in small pots till established,
then plant in the open ground. They may also
be put in now, when they will root during the
summer, but they will require keeping close and
shaded till that takes place. If put in the open
ground a sheltered spot should be chosen for
them, and the cuttings should be made longer
than for pots.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 280 .)

The Late Vinery.

A span-roofed house will be suitable for late
work, but whether it be a lean-to or a span-
roof it should be as roomy as the means will
admit or the needs require. There will be less
fluctuation of temperature in a good - sized
house than in a small one, and in winter less
fire will be required to keep out frost. The roof
should not be too flat, as though, so far as
regards the growth of the vines, the angle of
the roof is not very important, yet a mode¬
rately steep-pitched roof is best for carrying off
the water quickly, and preventing drip, which
is often very destructive to the Grapes. If the
wall-plates are built upon 14-inch pieis there
will be less obstruction to the free passage of
the roots when they want to go outside. A
house 20 feet wide may have a 6 feet path
down the centre, with 7 feet beds on each side,
which may be raised a Lot or 15 inches above
the ground level. If the vines are planted
inside and well attended to, the 7 feet of border
inside will bo enough the first year. The second
year a piece of border may be made outside, to
be increased as circumstances may require.
Good sound loam should form the basis of the
borders, and if possible it might be taken
from a limestone strata, but what I have
written about the borders of the early vinery
wiH be equally applicable here.

Kinds to Plant.

The Muscat of Alexandria is undoubtedly one
of the very best Grapes, though not so late as
Lady Downs, Alicante, and Oros Colman. I
have generally found, too, that to do Muscats
well required rather more body in the soil than
the Hamburgs and Sweetwaters. If the loam is
light a dressilg of clay will help it very much,
and give substance and weight to the wood.
The Barbarossa is a good keeping Grape, carries
a large bunch, and has a hardy, vigorous con¬
stitution, and is free from most of the defects,
such as shanking, spotting, &c., which most
other Grapes are subject to. The best time to
plant is just as the buds have broken, the vines
having been brought on without artificial heat,
assuming, of course, that plants of at least one
year’s growth are planted. If they are of the
same season’s propagation they may be planted
anywhere in summer. All late keeping Grapes
are thick-skinned ; in fact, that is the cause of
their keeping, and to ripen them well artificial
heat is necessary, and it is better to use the fire
in spring than in autumn. It started, say, not
later than the first week in March, they should

290

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 23, 1884.

be ripe in October, or nearly so. A little fire
again in autumn, especially in dull weather,
will be desirable to finish off' the fruit and ripen
the wood, the latter point being as important as
the former. As regards the application of
moisture read what has been written about the
early vinery.

The Extension System.

If we plant a dozen vines in a house, though
they may perhaps be all of one size and of the
sameage when planted, before the end of the first
year they will manifest signs of inequality.
Some will have acquired more substance and
developed more strength than others ; and it
would be only wise to take advantage of the
capacity for work of the strong and remove
the weaklings. Perhaps the term “ extension
system ” gives as good an idea of the system as
any other, but it seems lacking in expressiveness,
l>ecause the extension is only of a limited kind.
When the house is full there cannot be any
more extension. 1 should think, perhaps, every
gardener of large experience has either had
charge of places where a single vine was filling
a whole house, and which was of considerable
age, or could point to places in every county in
England where such treatment has at some
time or other been carried out. The more growth
a plant makes the stronger it becomes. This
may sound paradoxical, but size does not
always give strength, as so much depends upon
the way the structure has been built up, be it
man, beast, or plant.

Spur v . Rod Pruning.

This matter of pruning is intimately connected
with the system of training referred to in the
last chapter. When the growth is restricted—
7. c ., when the branches are confined to a parti¬
cular space, spur pruning is universally adopted,
and it answers fairly well when the roots are
near the surface. But if the roots run down to
the bottom of the border or beyond, the w’ood
fails to ripen well, and the bunches are fewer
in number, and have long stalks and straggling
habit—in fact, present tne usual symptoms of
vinesoutof condition. The best remedy is to lift
the roots, but if this cannot be done its effect
may be mitigated by training up here and ibtfe,
as opportunity offers, a young rod or two, to
introduce new blood and new vigour. This hi
adopting the rod system from necessity. Some
people adopt it from choice, and carry it out
systematically by leading up a certain number
of rods annually, and cutting out the same
number of canes which have first borne
fruit. In competent hands all systems of
pruning and training are successful, and the
rod system does give the cultivator a little more
control over shy hearers, such as the Buckland
Sweetwater, for instance. Where the spur
system is adopted, if the vines are in good con¬
dition there is no necessity for leaving long
spurs. One or tw r o eyes at the most will be
enough, especially with such free-bearing kinds
as the Muscat, the Hamburg, &c.

Summer Management.

This will consist in disbudding, stopping,
and tying down and removing the laterals,
and, unless some reason exists to the contrary,
this should be done regularly, when they can be
rubbed or pinched off. The supply of moisture
to the roots must be abundant, especially during
the growing season; and the water will be an
excellent medium for conveying to the roots any
stimulant the plants may need. It is possible
to over-feed, but vines will take up a great
deal of nourishment at the time the Grapes are
swelling without being surfeited. This is a
matter that each must discover for himself, for
it is impossible to gauge the capacity of vines
for useful feeding without personal knowledge. It
may be safely conceded that large, gouty-looking
berries which lack colour have been overdone
in the matter of stimulants. This is where
judgment should come in. Some people can
never leave well alone. They have been water¬
ing, say, with guano, or some quickly acting
stimulant, they can see the rapidly swelling
berries, and fancy, as they are on the right track,
they cannot go too far. Moderation in the
use of stimulants should be insisted on, until
the capacity of the plants for employing it pro¬
fitably has been rightly estimated. The appli¬
cation of fire heat, for the purpose of giving the
thick-skinned sorts/'a^ good Jtortf ia very
desirulblc, and it sbo ^l dis¬

continued till the weather has settled dowm, in
the end of June or beginning of July. Regu¬
larity and steadiness is better, in the case of
anything, than w’orking by fits and starts,
A flue is not a bad thing for warming a late
vinery, even though it be old-fashioned. It is
possible, sometimes, to take the flue from
some other building through the late vinery.
There must be a damper in the flue, in such
case, to shut off the heat from the house
when not required. When the flue is in
good condition it gives off a nice dry
genial w'armth very suitable for a vinery, and
is very economical, as, if rightly constructed,
it wfill burn anything. The ventilation and the
supply of atmospheric moisture are two of the
most important items in their summer manage¬
ment, for no matter how the border may be
made, unless the interior management be right,
the result will not be satisfactory. To give
tables of temperature w'ould not exactly meet
the case, because what is really needed is intel¬
ligent supervision. For instance, in admitting
air, we will say on a spring or summer morn¬
ing, one man will keep the house shut up and
steaming with moisture till the thermometer
reaches a particular figure, and then, by letting
down the lights too far, let in a rush of chilling
air, which will do a lot of mischief. Ventila¬
tion should be gradual, and ought to begin
early. The openings should at first be small,
but they should be increased as the sun gains
power upon the glass. If taken in time the air
will gradually be changed without creating any
draught. In the afternoon the air should be
reduced in like manner by degrees, and what¬
ever forcing is done with sun heat should be
done in the afternoon when the atmosphere in
the house is sweet and pure. If the ther¬
mometer in the afternoon, shortly after th«
house is closed at four o'clock or so, should run
up to 100 degs., no harm will be done; but
whenever a nigh temperature is permitted
there must be abundant moisture in the atmo¬
sphere. This atmosphere question is a most
important one. A heavy, saturated atmosphere,
if it continues long without the stimulating effect
of sunshine, means stagnation and mildew, and
soft, flabby leaves, which, when the weather be¬
comes hot, in July and August, w'ill probably fall
a prey to red spider. Where the ventilation is
intelligently carried out, the leaves are strong
and healthy, and neither red spider or mildew'
find a lodgment on them. But no amount of
writing could tell everything. Many things
must of necessity be learned by experience.
Renovating Old Vines.

When vines get out of hand, nine times out
of ten the cause must be sought for at the roots.
If from any cause the roots of the vine leave
the surface of the border, which is under the
warming and sweetening influence of the sun,
and descend to unknown depths after moisture,
one may be sure that at no distant day there
W’ill come long-jointed wood, long-stalked
bunches of Grapes, with many shanked berries.
When this state of things comes to pass prepare
a lot of turfy soil, mixed with some crushed
bones and old mortar or plaster. Then open a
trench along the border right down to the
bottom, wheeling the earth taken out to some
other part of the garden, where a top-dressing
is required. This trench should be 4 feet
wide, and all roots found in it may be cut clean
off. Having obtained a clear space the length
and depth of the border, commence with
forks to loosen and remove the remainder
of the earth, working upwards from the trench,
saving all the roots by turning them back and
covering with mats to keep them fresh. It is
best to do the border in sections if the house is
a long one, otherwise it may be all taken at
once. As soon as the border is all cleared out
and the drainage put right, fill in with the pre¬
pared soil, lay the roots out straight near the
surface, covering over all with a mulch of rotten
manure. If the bonier is '"/er 12 feet wide
only a part may be made at first, the other
portion to be added in *•. year or two, or w'hen
more support was required. If everybody
could be convinced now easy it is to lift vine
roots and how beneficial it is to them, no one,

I am sure, w'ould put up w'ith shanked or un¬
satisfactory Grapes. The lifting may be done
at any season v hen the vines are not in active
growth. I have lifted vine roots at all times
from .September to March, and I don’t know
that I have any preference.

Bottling the Grapes.

It is a distinct advantage to be able to
cut the Grapes soon after Christmas. It gives
an opportunity to prune and clean the viues,
and allow'8 a longqj* period of rest, because after
the Grapes are cut the house may be thrown
open and kept cool till March. The bunches of
Grapes should be cut with a good piece of wood
from the bottom of the branch, w'hich will be
inserted in a bottle of w ater containing a small
quantity of animal charcoal. The bottles, each
containing a branch, from which hangs a bunch
of Grapes, are placed in a slanting position in
racks, so that the bunches hang clear of every¬
thing. The Grape room should be kept at a
regular temperature of 53 to 55 degs., and must
be so ventilated that no moisture can lodge on
the berries. E. Hobday.

FRUIT.

The best Strawberries.— As the time
has now arrived for making new plantations,
allow' me to make a few remarks on kinds
which I have found to answer best for all pur¬
poses. Everyone, for example, Bhould grow
Garibaldi. If young plants of it are planted
every three or four years, it is a first-rate
cropper. Though its fruit is rather small in¬
dividually, its colour is excellent, and for pre¬
serving no other kind is, perhaps, so good.
President is, according to my opinion, the l£st
Straw'berry of the present day, and no garden,
however small, should be without it. It is
most prolific, handsome, and good flavoured,
and for forcing it has no equal. Although not
quite so early as some, the deficiency is more
than counter-balanced by the heavy crops of
fine fruit which it produces in April and May.
Sir Charles Napier is another that should
find a place in every garden. It is a most
abundant bearer, and the brisk acid flavour
which its fruits possess is generally liked by
every one. Elton Pine has lateness* to recom¬
mend it. It comes in w'hen most others are
over, or at least past their best. It is also a
first-rate bearer. In colour it is a most beautiful
crimson, medium as regards size, and acid in
flavour, which is very acceptable during the
hot days which we generally get at the end of
July. There may be other good kinds, but I
have found none to answer the general require¬
ments of a private establishment so well as the
four sorts just named. To those who would like
to give a few more kinds a trial I w'ould recom¬
mend Sir Joseph Paxton, British Queen, Dr.
Hogg, James Veitch, and Sir Harry. These I
have found to be very good, and where size of
fruit rather than quantity of crop or quality is
desired, any of these will give satisfaction.
British Queen is no doubt the finest flavoured
Strawberry growm, but it does badly in some
places, and is therefore not trustworthy.— Old
Gardener.

11817.—Strawberries not colouring.—
It is very unusual for Strawberries not to
colour well out of doors. Some varieties w'ere
this year badly attacked with mildew, which
causes the fruit to appear of a whitish colour.
The Bicton Pine never colours, but ripens a
creamy white. Grow Keen’s Seedling, Presi¬
dent, and British Queen, and there will be no
trouble to obtain good Strawberries. Sir
Joseph Paxton is a good and popular market
variety, but it is liable to the attacks of mildew'.
—J. D. E.

11819.—Red spider in vinery.— This has
been a very bad season for red spider. Late vines
suffered more from the attacks of it than early
ones. When nothing has been done to stop its
progress until every leaf is infested the case is
a bad one. Syringing the vines makes a sad
mess of the Grapes. The best w’ay to destroy
it is to heat the hot-water pipes w'ell and paint
them, while they are hot, with flour of sul¬
phur, W’hich has been mixed in water until it
is like paint. This should be done a second
time in a w'eek to catch the young brood which
is produced after the fumigating.—J. D. E.

Mulching: v. water! ngr.-Referring to an article
under the above head in Gakdkxinq, No. 281, may I ask
I ho;v ■*** regard to such flowers as

Fuchsias. Xlerunlums, JkliotrojH-s, link's, $c\, in j»ots in

'* m * > mMA-CHAMPAIGN

August 23 , 1884 ]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

201

INDOOR PLANTS.

STEPHANOTIS FLORIBUXDA.

The flowers of this are always prized in the
market, and growers can seldom get enough of
them. Plants of it are usually planted out at
the end of Cucumber houses or similar places,
and trained over the roof. Thorough ripening
of the wood is the chief point aimed at, and
through this alone can abundance of flow*ers
* be obtained. When allowed plenty of room
j/and properly treated, it is astonishing to
■ wh\t dimensions the Stephanotis will attain,
and what a quantity of blossom it will
yield. One of the largest plants with which 1
am acquainted is trained lengthwise on wires,
under the roof of a lean-to nouse 70 feet in
length. There are about thirty-five wires about
9 inches apart, giving altogether 2,4.50 feet, or
nearly half a mile of wires, to each of which
are tied quite bundles of shoots. This plant,
which yearly furnishes thousands of flowers,
receives but little pruning, neither are the
shoots ever disturbed in any way, excepting
whon they get very thick indeed. In February

I money as can be got for the plants. Many
people have, however, often been surprised to
find the Stephanotis flowered in such a small
{ state a9 it is found here, and have wondered
how such results could be obtained. The
plants are struck from cuttings of half-ripened
wood (not pointB of shoots) in autumn, or are
obtained by layering a branch of a plant along
a row of pots filled with soil, iuto which every
alternate joint is pegged. Such plants, there
fore, when rooted and severed from the old
plant, have one joint above the pot, two leaves
and two eyes. These eyes produce shoots which
are encouraged to grow ua much as possible
until the middle of summer, when the plants are
turned out of doors or into a pit or frame in a
sunny position, in order to thoroughly ripen the
wooa. In autumn these shoots are cut back to
firm wood, and the plants are placed indoors,
when they soon put forth shoots, all of which
are sure to produce several clusters of blossoms.
These shoots are trained round a few small
stakes, and when in bloom the plants are ready
for market. Such plants as are not disposed of
are cut back in the way described the next year,
when, of course, they make finer specimens.

— y --

portant it is to purchase bulbs that have been
well grown and thoroughly matured. In select¬
ing bulbs it is not well to lay too much stress
upon their being well formed ; indeed, a rather
extensive experience confirms me in the belief
that the ugly, misshapen bulbs are the most
likely to produce good spikes. Some bulbs
seem as if they were partly split open by some
internal force. This is doubtless the result of
spike formation inside, and it is a sure sign that
the spike will be a good one.

The pottino material ought to be very rich
and porous. I use a compost of two parts turfy
loam, one of rotten cow manure, one of leaf-
mould, and one of sharp sand—sea sand is best.
There is a right and a w rong way in potting the
bulbs. The wrong w ay is to fill the pot with the
potting material, and then to press the bulb into
it. This causes the soil underneath the bulb to
be so firm that during the process of root for¬
mation the bulbs are forced out of the soil,
i The right way is to open a space in the soil,
rather larger than the bulb, putin a little sand,
then close the compost round the bulb, pressing
it in rather firmly. The top of the bulb should
just project out of the soil; place a piuch of

SPRAY OP STEPHANOTIS FLORIBUXDA (ONE-THIRD NATURAL SIZE).

and March the old wood pushes out abundance
of bloom from the axils of the leaves, and when
this crop of flowers is gathered, some of the
rougher or worthless wood is cut out; young
growths are mode freely, and in June the
plant is again a sheet of blossom. If the plant
gets attacked by insects, the garden engine
and clear water are brought to bear upon it
w-ith such force that the insects are dislodged.
This operation is repeated at frequent intervals
during the time in which the plant is out of
blossom, and it is considered a much more satis¬
factory method than that usually adopted, viz.,
that of unfastening the shoots from the wires,
pruning them back, and sponging them, an
operation which disturbs the buds and destroys
a large quantity of blossom. Where trimness
and order are required, the cutting back and
thinning system is doubtless the best ; but w here
the largest quantity of blossom that can be pro¬
duced is aimed at, which is the case in all
market gardens, the plant must be disturbed
as little as possible. Sometimes in spring may
l*e seen in Covent Carden small plants of the
Stephanotis in 0-inch pots, bearing several
clusters of blossom, brft suclwarc nurjir' jtery
plentiful, as‘the flowe d fqrt jjaltriftgaUjuich *

They are not allowed much pot-room, as in this
case they grow too long in the season, and do
not ripen their wood so well, but liquid manure
is used as a substitute for more root-room just
when the plants require it. A mixture of good
turfy loam, peat, and a little decomposed manure
or leaf-mould, to which has been aaded a liberal
quantity of sand, forms the bestcompoBt for the
Stephanotis. Good drainage and abundance of
water w r hen the plants are in full grow-th are
also essential to the production of fine flowers,
and the perfect health of the plants. S.

HYACINTHS FOR THE GREENHOUSE.
No conservatory or greenhouse can be con¬
sidered furnished with spring flowers that
contains no Hyacinths. Almost everybody
grows them, but all do not succeed in growing
them even fairly well. Good spikes cannot be
produced unless the best bulbs are purchased.
What we in this country have to do is Bimply
to develop the spike formed in the bulb the
previous seasou in the bulb gardens in Holland.
We cannot place more flowers on the spike than
the number already there before it came into
our possession. It will thu9 be seen how im-

sand over it. When the bulbs are all potted
they should be placed out of doors on a dry
bottom of coal ashes. Cov6r the pots over with
Cocoa-nut fibre refuse, or leaf-mould answers
well for the purpose. The best place to plunge
the pots is an open position w r here they are
fully exposed te atmospheric influences. They
are sometimes put under the stages of plant
houses, but that is not a good place for them.
The drip from plants above is likely to make
some of them too wet, while others got too dry.
Such treatment is almost sure to cause an un¬
equal growth and many weak and badly deve¬
loped spikes. Another frequent cause of failure,
especially with the earliest flowering plants, is
to take them into the forcing house before roots
have been formed or not sufficiently formed to
support well the rapidly growing Bpikes and
leaves.

Forcing.— The Hyacinth is very easily forced,
and can stand a moderately high temperature,
but the bulbs must be early potted and placed
out of doors in plunging material until roots are
formed, and it is'best not to hurry the plants too
much into growth at first. Start them with a
low iniht tefii^eratutojj »nd gradually increase
it as th| jplauts ?^iqw signs of, ^rqygpj A very

292

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 23, 1884.

good way of promoting root development is to
plunge the pots in a very gentle bottom heat;
with the aid of this they can be pushed on in a
higher temperature than would otherwise be
possible. The best spikes are usually obtained
later in the season. Roots are formed very
rapidly out of doors about the last week in Sep¬
tember, and the spikes are usually to be seen
about an inch above the crowns by the second
or third week in January, when they may be
moved indoors. If it is intended to publicly
exhibit them at the spring exhibitions which are
usually held in March, about the end of that
month, extra care must, of course, be taken with
them. They should receive greenhouse treat
mentforamonthor six weeks after they are taken
into the house, and if it is necessary to push
some of the late flowering varieties on a little
faster, it is easy to do so by taking them into a
warmer house for a few days. For instance,
one of the best Hyacinths—King of the Blues
—flowers later than the others, and requires
to be placed in a warmer house to get it in at
the same time as the earlier flowering varieties.
Neat "wire supports are the best to keep the
spikes in an erect position. The wire should be
bent where It enters the mould to avoid
injuring the bulbs. In some cases the bells are
placed too closely on the spikes, and they
cannot develop themselves, forming a crowded
mass merely of half-opened flowers. It surely
agrees with common sense as well as with good
gardening that the surplus bells should be
removed with a pair of scissors to allow the
spikes as well as the flowers to develop them¬
selves perfectly. Thinning the flowers, as well
as arranging them on the spikes, is allowed to
an exhibitor, and is a part—a necessary part—
of the cultivation of the Hyacinth.

A selection of the very best varieties that are
to be found in the trade catalogues would com¬
prise the following, all of which are adapted
for exhibition, and of course if a variety is good
for exhibition, it is also good for the drawing¬
room, greenhouse, or conservatory :—Single
red : Cavaignac, Fabiola, Garibaldi, Cigantea,
Lady Palmerston, Lina, Lord Macaulay,
Linnreus, Princess Helena, Solfaterre, Sultan’s
Favourite, Von Schiller, Vurbaak. The only
double red varieties I care to grow arc Duke of
Wellington and Koh-i-noor. The best single
blue varieties are—Argus, Baron Van Tuyll,
Blondin, Charles Dickens, Czar Peter, De
Candolle, Grand Lilas, Grand Maitre, General
Havelock, King of the Blues, Lord Derby, Lord
Palmerston, Marie, Mimosa, Prince of Wales,
and Sir John Lawrence. Of double blue sorts,

I care only for the deep indigo blue Laurens
Koster and the pale blue Van Speyk. Mauve
and magenta are Charles Dickens, Sir Henry
Havelock, and Haydn. Single white varieties
should comprise Alba maxima, Baroness Van
Tuyll, La Grandesse, l’lnnocence, Mont Blanc,
Queen of the Netherlands ; Snowball has the
best formed bell, but it is not a good spike;
Grandeur Merveille is white, with a rose tinge.
Single yellows : Of these I grow only Bird of
Paradise and Ida. J.

IMPORTED AZALEAS.

During the autumn months great quantities of
Azaleas are imported into this country from Bel¬
gium in the shape of small plants for flowering
m the ensuing spring, or, in the case of some of
the early kinds, for forcing into flower about
Christmas. Long before flowering, however,
many of these lose their leaves to such an extent
as to greatly impair their appearance, though
when first imported their foliage was ample.
Shifting about would account for the loss of
some leaves ; but, on the other hand, with a
little extra care and attention, many might be
prevented from dropping. As these Azaleas are
planted out in a light vegetable soil, they are
lifted in most cases with larger balls than can
be got into a pot of about sufficient size to
balance the head of the plant. In this case the
size of the ball may be reduced without injury,
that is, if the reduction be not too severe. In my
own case our plants are received about the
middle of September, frequently just before
that time ; all are unpacked and laid on the
damp floor of a potting shed. When unpack¬
ing, all those whose roots are at all dry are
placed in a tub of water just sufficient in
depth to cover the lafflESJ and there limy are
allowed to remain for tome fuj< ti fe^iiJother-

wise if potted in a dry condition it would be
almost impossible to thoroughly wet the ball,
and ill-health would be the result. After all
are unpacked,

Potting is commenced, choosing those first
that have not been soaked, as these latter will
be benefited by being left to drain for a time.
The soil which I use is peat and leaf-mould
in equal proportions, with a fair admixture of
sand. In potting, a good deal can be sometimes
done towards getting the plants in reasonable
sized pots by pressing down -with the hand any
prominent parts of the ball, but w here that does
not suffice, the ball then must be reduced. The
soil must be pressed down firmly, using where
required a thin piece of wood to work it down
into its place. After potting, give a good
watering through a rosed pot to thoroughly
settle the soil, and if the foliage is wetted
at the same time, dust and other impurities
adhering thereto will be removed. When
this is done and the superfluous water has
drained off, they are set in a cold frame as
thickly as possible without undue crowding,
that is so that the tips of the branches just touch
each other. So placed, glimpses of the pots can be
caught, and their state of moisture ascertained.
The frame is kept nearly closed and shaded from
bright sunshine for about a week, in order to
cause the roots to start, when more air is given
by degrees and the shading dispensed with.
During bright days the plants are syringed both
in the morning and afternoon, but in dull
weather that is unnecessary. In a week or ten
days they will have recovered from their check,
when full exposure to air and sunshine will
help the ripening of the w r ood and cause the
plants to flower better than if they were unduly
excited at that time. The lights are put on
during the night, and when requisite protected
from frost. Treated in this way, the plants
become well furnished with good, healthy
foliage, and the buds acquire that plump firm¬
ness which betokens a good display of flower.

The earlier kinds are speedily shifted into
the greenhouse, and as soon as there is any
danger to be apprehended from severe frosts
the whole are removed thereto, whence those
required early are soon moved into warmer
quarters. When in the increased temperature
of the forcing house they will need frequent
syringing, otherwise they will become a prey to
thrips, which greatly disfigure the foliage. In
the case of old plants, if forced every season,
they may be had in bloom by the beginning of
December, the old white kind being one of the
best for the purpose. To fit them for this, force
them into bloom as early as possible the first year;
then after flowering encourage them to make a
good growth in the same temperature, and
in spring harden them off by degrees, so that
by midsummer the firm, healthy wood may
promise well for bloom. If no forcing is re¬
quired, all that is needed is to keep them in the
greenhouse and water them properly till flower¬
ing time. Azalea mollis, such a grand object
in early spring for conservatory decoration,
flowers just as well if potted when taken indoors
as it does if done some time before that; in¬
deed, from its masses of roots it is in no way
distressed if simply placed on the floor of the
house, and a little soil is scattered over the
roots and kept moist. There is now a much
wider range of colour among the flowers of this
last named section than formerly, there being
now yellow, both of a deep golden and of a pale
sulphur tint, and also rose, salmon, and all in¬
termediate shades. H. P.

Propagating tuberous Begonias. —

These Begonias can be so readily propagated by
means of cuttings put in in early spring, and
from seeds which produce flowering plants so
quickly, that it may be thought no other mode
of increase is necessary, but having experimented
successfully in another way with a few last
spring, I will just record my mode of proceed¬
ing. Several tubers were beginning to push up
two, three, or more shoots, and for my purpose,
requiring them with a single stem, I cut up the
tuber as one might a Fotato, into as many pieces
as there were eyes, and potted each in the same
way as a perfect tuber would have been done ;
after that I kept them in the greenhouse. The
cut pieces started into growth as quickly as those
that were not divided, and, under the samo
conditions, it has not been possible at any time

since to distinguish one from the other. Those
divided are growing quite as freely and flower¬
ing as profusely as those that were not. This
principle cannot be carried out to any great
extent, as many good-sized tubers have only a
single stem, and, moreover, large masses are
generally preferred, but still a mode of increase
that requires no propagating cases or different
treatment from the bulk of the collection
deserves, I think, to be mentioned.—H. P.

Bouvardias in summer.— Though gene¬
rally regarded in the light of winter-blooming
plants, many Bouvardias flower freely enough
under special treatment at this season, and,
notwithstanding the wealth of flowering plants
now' in perfection, their chastely beautiful
flow'ers are always prized. Those under notice
were flowered early last winter, then rested a
little, and started into growth in spring, with
the result that they are again in full bloom,
and the amount of cut flow'ers supplied by them
is very considerable. These plants have been
top-dressed a couple of times during the season
with a little artificial manure. Another method
is to turn the old plants out into a sheltered
border, w'hence quantities of flower are obtained
with no trouble, except an occasional watering,
but the colour is not so pure as when growui
under glass. The varieties to which we allude
are Vreelandi (white), Elegans (scarlet),
Maiden’s Blush, Queen of Roses, and Rosea
oculata (pink), and the two doubles, Alfred
Neuner and President Garfield.

Tasmanian plants from seed.— The
seeds should be sown in spring, so that the
young plants have a long season of growth. If
they were sown now there would be some
difficulty in wintering many of them. If there
is the convenience of a warm house where a
constant temperature of from 55 degs. to GO
degs. can be maintained they may be sown
about the beginning of March ; otherwise the
middle of April is soon enough. Sow each kind
separately in pots or pans corresponding in size
to the amount of seed. Fill them one-fourth
full of drainage, and then to within about half
an inch of the rim with finely sifted soft peat,
adding quite one-fourtli of the bulk of silver
sand for all, except the EucalyptusHelichrysum.
Acacias, and Asters, which should have in
addition about one-third of decomposed leaf-soil.
Press the surface firm and perfectly level, and
water moderately, so that the whole body of
soil is quite moist, but not sodden, before
sowing. In the case of the very small seed,
only the slightest covering of very fine sandy
soil is necessary. Larger ones should be covei eil
with about their own thickness of mould. The
pots should be placed under a handlight or in a
close frame, where the soil is not likely to dry
out quickly, as upon its being maintained
in an uniform state of moisture depends the
successful germination of the seeds. It is a good
plan to cover each pot with a pane of glass,
first putting a piece of paper on ; this seals the
mouth of the pot almost hermetically, and when
the young plants appear the paper can be
removed. When the young plants are large
enough to handle they should be pricked out in
pans, and afterwards be transferred to small
pots, growing them along in a frame or cool
greenhouse. Tasmanian and New Holland plants
all dislike much confinement, requiring plenty of
air through the summer, and, when established,
complete exposure to the open air from the
middle of August to housing time. In winter
no more heat must be used than is necessary to
keep out frost. A little shade from very hot
sun is beneficial.—J. Corn hill, Byfleet .

11S36.— Azaleas and Camellias.— Your
plants seem to be in a sorry plight. It is
difficult to say why the Azaleas out of doors
are dying and losing their leaves. If the pots
are exposed to the sun out of doors, the roots
might have been killed ; or the plants may have
suffered from want of -water. The best thing to
do now with such sickly plants -would be to take
them into a greenhouse ; see that they arc kept
free from red spider and thrips. Probably, if
the roots are healthy, they will start and make
fresh growths. The Camellias are infested witH
brown scale, which may be removed with a.
piece of wood. The leaves and wood must then
be washed clean with a sponge, using warm
water and soft Water. —J/T). E.

hp4« If “the Azaleas were h&lRhy, when re¬
potted they must have sutiered at some time

URB ANA-CHAMPAIGN

August 23, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

2P3

from want of water, or the foliage would not
have dropped as it has done. The leaves having
dropped it is improbable that roots have been
made in the new soil, and were the plants ours
we would replace them in the old pots, watering
them carefully through the autumn and winter.
This is the only way of restoring root action
and causing the plants to break again, when
judicious treatment will perhaps bring them
into good health once more. Perhaps they were
shifted before young shoots formed, which is
wrong ; they should have formed shoots an inch
long before shifting them. The roots soon
begin to work into the new soil, otherwise it is
some time before they do so, and they^ever
break so well. When making their growth they
should, in fine weather, be fairly syringed morn¬
ing and evening, and the soil should never be
allowed to become very dry ; if it does so fre¬
quently the fine hair-like roots perish and the
leaves fall off. About the middle of August put
them in the open air. The Camellias are
attacked by brown scale, which must be de¬
stroyed, or they will never thrive. Dissolve 3
ounces of soft soap in warm water and add a
gallon of water to that, syringing the upper and
under surfaces of the leaves as well as the wood
with it. In a week afterwards thoroughly wash
every part with clean water. Probably a few
more insects' will make their appearance, but if
watched for and cleaned off as they appear
this pest will soon be completely eradicated.—
J. C. Byfleet,

11838. — Seedling Cyclamens. — The
plants should not be allowed to die down this
summer, as the seeds were only sown last
February. They will flower in the winter if
they are kept growing on without a check from
the time of sowing. The first week in August
is the best time to sow Cyclamens. They
should be grown on in small pots in a warm
house through the winter. About the end of
May the plants may be placed in cold frames ;
and with good management fine flowering plants
may be produced.—J. D. E.

- If young seedlings are to make good

blooming plants by winter they must be grown
along freely. If there is the convenience of a
warm house they should be put into small pots
in March, and grown along near the light, but,
if they are to be grown cool, April is time
enough. By the middle of July they should go
into their blooming pots, which may be either
2$ inches or 4£ inches, according to the strength
of the plants. A frame is the best place through
the summer, shading them from hot sun, keep¬
ing the soil nicely moist, but avoiding heavy
waterings, and giving plenty of air in fine
weather. If your plants are still in the seed-

S ans pot them off singly, and if they do not
ower this season keep them in a cool house
through the winter, and shift the following
March, using loam and leaf-soil in equal parts
with plenty of white sand.—J. C. B.

11829.— Double Petunias.—These may
either be grown from cuttings struck in late
summer or in warmth in spring. The great
point is to secure succulent cuttings, as when
the wood becomes hard and dry—as is often the
case when the plants have been blooming freely
and when the weather is dry—they are a long
time making roots and often form none at all.
Insert them either singly in small pots, or half-
a-dozen together in 2£-inch pots, keeping them
in a cool close frame until rooted. Winter them
in a cool house, and in April pot them off singly,
using a nice free sandy soil. Stop the strongest
Bhoots as they advance in growth, and before they
get root-bound shift into larger pots. If shifted
along and well cared for in the matter of water¬
ing. they will come into 6-inch pots by the end
of June, and w ill llow’cr well. If required for
the open ground, plant out the end of May.—
J. C. R.

11848. —Plants for cool greenhouses.—
Nothing is so good as Ferns for a house where
bo sun comes, and the best plan would be to
plant them out in good soil, as then they would
give but little trouble and would grow much
better than when kept in pots. Any of the
following would suit:—Lastrea Filix-mas cris¬
tate, Athyrium Filix-fcemina and its varieties,
Fielderi and plumosa, Osmunda regalis, in-
term pta and cinnamomea, Cyrtomium falcatum,
and Polystichum aculeatum. These are strong¬
growing kinds, those of more moderate dimen¬
sions being Polystichutff afcgufitre prollfemm,

TSf::Uirsa by VjU V?K.

Adiantum pedatum, Onoclea sensibilis, Scolo-
pendrium crispum and digitatum ; or any of
the many varieties of the Hart-tongue, Poly-
podium vulgare cambricum, Onychium japoni-
cum, Lastrea opaca, and Standishi. These will
all thrive in a mixture of peat and loam, plant¬
ing them about the middle of March, or they
may be planted in autumn when they have
finished their growth. The majority of shrubs
like more light, sun, and air than they are likely
to get under glass ; but if they were grown in
the open air through the summer they might be
employed to vary the aspect of the house in
winter just the time when most required. The

f old and silver-leaved Euonymus, Aucubas,
<aurustinus, Myrtles, Hollies, Escallonia Ber-
berises may be thus employed. They should be
in the open air from April till November,
plunging the pots to the rims and not letting
them suffer for want of water. October is the
best time to procure them, potting them firmly
and using good loam. The beautiful red and white
Lapagerias are about the only flowering plants
that could be relied on to thrive. If planted in
sandy peat they would probably in the course of
a season or two make good growth. April is
a good time to plant them.—J. C. B.

11830.— Heat for stove plants.— A house that con¬
tains Crotons and Dipladenias should not have less than
60 degs. as a minimum temperature in winter. During
the spring and summer months a minimum of 70 degs.
would be better.—J. D. E.

11821.—Thrlps on Fuchsias.— Thrips have been
very troublesome this year, especially during the recent
hot weather. They may be killed by fumigating the house
with Tobacco smoke, or syringing the plants infested with
Tobacco water.—J. D. E.

11828.— Plants for trellis-work.— The very best
plants to cover the trellis-work are Lapageria rosea and its
white variety, L. alba. Clianthus puniceus is also a dis¬
tinct and good plant for the purpose ; it flowers in spring.
Plumbago capensis is a charming climber with pale blue
flowers.—J. 1). E.

ROSES.

11833.— Dressing for Roses.— A dessert
spoonful of guano, mixed with five times the
quantity of earth, and placed round the roots of
a Rose growing out of doors, could not harm it
in the least. Such a small quantity would not
be termed a good dressing ; but it ought to have
added vigour to the Rose, if it was watered in.
The right way to apply such a dressing would
be to spread it over a space, included in a circle,
3 feet in diameter, and of which the Rose itself
would be the centre.—J. D. E.

11832.— Rose cuttings.— If you give them liberal
culture they will make nice bushes in the course of two
seasons. Plant them in well-stirred ground, mulch in
early spring with Bhort manure, and water copiously in hot
weather.—J. C. B.

VEGETABLES.

Sowing autumn Onions. — Where a
supply of large-sized Onions all the year round
is required, the autumn-sown crop becomes as
important as that sown in spring. Sow about
the middle of August, and a large portion are
transplanted in February on land prepared, as
for the spring-sown crop, in an open situation.
Some people have an idea that transplanted
Onions do not thrive so well as those not trans¬
lated. There cannot, however, be a greater
elusion. It is a very old practice, and in diffi¬
cult soils, or where the maggot is destructive,
Onions sown in August on a warm, dry border,
and transplanted in February, may generally be
relied upon. The kinds usually sown in autumn
are the Tripoli and Lisbon, but any other kind
will succeed equally well, such as the White
Spanish, Brown Globe, the Silver-skinned, and
others. The Tripoli grows to a large size, but
does well for summer use.

Fly on Onions. —More than half my Onions
are practically destroyed by the fly, and a few
days since, a last resource, I had the whole lot
taken up. On the arrival of Gardening, a few
hours later, I w r as delighted to observe that
“W. P.” “had tried for several years, with
entire success, l lb. saltpetre, dissolved in hot
water, applied in four watering-cans of cold
water through the rose.” The size of the
watering-can is not stated. We may, therefore,
regard the cold water subsequently added as
an unknown quantity. Wishing, however, to
be on the safe side, I made a nearly saturated
solution of saltpetre, and in this liquid, regard¬

less of the existence of a Society for the Preven¬
tion of Cruelty to Animals, I deliberately soaked
ten “ plump and pleasing” specimens of the
Onion maggot for at least a quarter of an hour.
After the nitre bath the interesting creatures were
placed in a small card-board box ; and “ W. P.”
will possibly hear with surprise that everyone of
them is in the full enjoyment of robust health
at the present moment, notwithstanding the
prolonged immersion. —Robert King.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11816.—Making 1 tennis lawn. — We
have lately seen an excellent tennis lawn made
from a rough piece of pasture by simply taking
oft the turf, levelling the ground, and relaying the
old turf, which was kept regularly mown and
rolled. It is wonder ful what perseverance will do
in the way of bringing a piece of rough turf into
ood order. By constantly rolling and beating
own any bumpy places, and keeping the Grass
cut quite short, a nice even bit of lawn will be
formed in the course of a season or two. It is
the constant attention that does it. If expense
is no object the best w*ay is to procure good
turf, but if seeds are sown the lawn could
scarcely be used under twelve months from
sowing.—J. C. B.

11771. — Y arrow for lawns. —The common
Yarrow or Milfoil is a good plant for the purpose
mentioned. A “Constant Reader ” should save
his own seed, or set plants thinly in light, poor
soil, it will soon run about and make a turf.
It is a troublesome weed in gardens as its strong
suckers run about in every direction. Seed
might be had, at the hardy plant nurseries, of
Achillea Millefolium roseum, a rose-coloured
variety of the common kind. The wild plant is
extremely common on dry soils where new roads
are laid out, and on building estates it is one of
the first weeds to take possession.

117S0. — Garden and wild flowers. —The
double Daisy of gardens is produced by cultiva¬
tion from the wild Daisy of the fields. There
is a strain of double Daisy grown by the cottagers
here which is simply the wild flower doubled.
There is a wild form of the common Daisy with
a crimson centre which is no doubt the origin of
the crimson garden form, all the florets of that
being like the centre of the wild flower. The
common Daisy does not become the Marguerite.
One species cannot change into another, but
varieties and hybrids are produced. Most
garden flowers are the wild flowers of our own
and other countries. A few have been changed
in shape by cultivation, and others have been
doubled by accident or by cultivation or other¬
wise. The garden doubles of our own wild
flowers have nearly all been found wild. The
double Dropwort grows wild on Salisbury plain.
The lesser Bindweed and the Wood Anemone
come double in one bed in this garden.—J. D.

11S27.— Propagating Passion Flower.— Passion
Flowers are readily increased by means of the suckers
which the plant throws up from time to time. Theso
should be severed from the plant near to the root, and if
possible should hnve a few roots attached to them, but
this is not essential ; they should then be potted off or set
out in a bed as required, and shaded till established.—
Sydxey Hallan, Sheffield .

H. L.—lt is the eggs of some insect, but the piece sent
got broken, and we could not decide to what insect they

belong.- R. S — The leaf appears to have been eaten by

some kind of insect, but we could not discover any insects
on it. Watch the plant by candle-light and you may find

the enemy. The leaf is that of Spannannia afrioana.-

Charles Meyer.— The plants appear to have been over¬
watered. Take about 1 inch or 1£ inch off the top, and
insert in a pan well drained and filled w ith sandy Boil.
Water well, and placo in a moist place under a bell-glass if

possible. When rooted pot off into separate pots.-

h\ \V. Williams .—Kindly repeat your question.- A. Mel).

—Asplenium bulbiferum is not a British Fern.- Straw

Mots.— These are made at the Blackrock Straw Factory,

Blackrock, near Dublin.- Considerate Lilia , P. D. /).,

and Co<Idling. —Try Messrs. Carter and Co., High Holborn’
or Messrs. Dick Kadcliffc and Co., High Holborn.- Ayr¬

shire Reader. —You cannot show’ a pink Geranium for a

scarlet one.- C. Groom.— Your plants are infested with

an insect called the mealy bug, a common plant pest.
Try Fir tree oil, insecticide, or petroleum oil as a remedy.

- L. G. H .—Your Rosea are infested with a fungus known

as the red rust. Try dusting tho bushes with sulphur as a
remedy.

Mames of plants.— J. Rigge.— 1, Probably
Thermopsis inontana ; 2, Sedum Aizoon ; 3, Species of

Lysimachia, probably vulgaris' 4, Sedum spurium.-

L. M.—l, Spir»a pacliystaehya. Vallota purpurea leaves
seem to have been attacked by fungus, probably produced

by (snwv*t P?3lN e ^--yr'• ICL-pWfeJ-Ki. /fypigola

URBANA-CHANIPAIGN

294

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Aogust 23, 1884.

am&bilis; 2, Snowberrv Symphoriearpu9 racemosua.-

E M. Paphliton .—Please send when in llower.- W. II.

Penrose. —Veratrum nigrum.- M. McDonald. —Viburnum

O pul us ; Guelder Rose.-S. M. IV. —Polygonum cuspi-

datum ; Monarda didyma (red).- W . Clifford.— Appa¬

rently Inula Oculis Christi, but cannot be certain without

fuller material.- R. N. —1, Maurandya Rarclayana ; 2,

Fr&ncoa appendiculata.- C. If. Curtis. —Melilotus offici¬

nalis. M. P. R. —Stachyslanata. No name (from South

Lambeth).—Centaureajsuaveolens.- Iolanthc. —1, Cyrto-

iniuin folcatum ; 2, Cannot name ; 3. Fuchsia procumbens ;

4, Graphophyllum yictum.- If. M. Humphreys.—C annot

name.- G. A. Brown.— Anagallis tenella.- Xenia.—

The Green Dahlia ; simply a monstrosity. The plants are

certainly worth saving if you care for the variety.-

Jessamine— Silene infiata.- R. W. Green.—I, Colutea

arborescens; 2, Spirroa Ulmaria variogata; 3, Sedum

populifolium.- T. L.—l, Mentha piperita; 2, Potentilla

colorata ; 3, Lysinvochia ciliata.- Vicar. — A poor

specimen of a Campanula, probably C. unifolia.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents. —All communications

for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
culdress of the sender is required, in addition to any nora
do plumo* to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the Query
answered. When more than one artery is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
G ardbninq going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when good
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name varieties
of florist# flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas,
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist who
has the means of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to name should always
accompany the parcel.

11383.— Plants for greenhouse.—I have just had
erected a cool greenhouse, 24 feet by 12 feet, and would be
very much obliged if anyone would advise me as to the
best plants to plant in it ? I wish to have a bed about 3

11S96. — Propagating Calceolarias.— Having some
very fine Calceolarias, would someone bo kind enough to
infonn me when to take cuttings, and how to treat them
to grow them to perfection ?— A Lovkr ok Flowers.

11S97.— Passion Flower not blooming.— Can any
reader tell me the reason of the non-flowering of thisplant?
It is planted out in a bed where it gets plenty of sun ; it
makes strong growth but never flowers. Any other hints
as to planting, situation, soil, etc., will be thankfully
received.— Sydney Hallan, Sheffield.

11893.— Cloches.— If “T. S. W.” (pages 264-265) will
kindly say where he obtains his cloches, price, and sizes,
I shall esteem it a favour. The cost of the home-made bell-
glasses is simply prohibitory, besides which, the knob at
the top is a decided nuisance. I am the happy possessor
of a copy of each of the three editions of the '• Parks and
Gardens of Paris." and, from ray own purview of French
gardens, can fully believe all that Mr. Robinson says of
the utility of the cloche. With bated breath I venture to
suggest that a short article from his pen on the manage¬
ment and capabilities of this excellent contrivance would
be very acceptable to large numbers of readers, to whom
the admirable work above referred to is a sealed book.—
Considerate Lilia.

IMPROVED WALL TREE COVER.
Judging from the experience of practical men,
there cannot be any doubt that efficient protec¬
tion not only increases the general productive¬
ness of wall trees, but lessens the risk of losing
a promising crop of fruit. But by “efficient
protection ” must be understood a combination
of conditions—not merely power to check, when
necessary, the upward current of air so that a
wall warmed by the sun may not too rapidly
part with its heat; protection from heavy rains
descending, or horizontal currents of cold air ;
protection from wasps and birds; but also power
to give easy, rapid ventilation in any part, to
any extent, even to that of removing all protec¬
tion. This necessitates lightness, portability,
and an absence of all complications, so that
skilled labour may not be required in its erec¬
tion, manipulation, or removal. If to all these
conditions we add cheapness and slightness, we

Movable wall tree cover.

feet wide at back, which is a brick wall, from which rises
a span-roof, the front and side facing south and east of
glass on brick work 2 feet high. The west end brick¬
work with glass at the top of the door. It is in a warm,
sheltered spot near the sea. Any suggestion as to plants
and arrangement would be appreciated.— Mary.

11839.—Carnations and Plcotees.— Must I rub off
superfluous buds in order to get show' blooms of Carnations
and Picotees, and is it best to grow the plants for show in
frames or in the open? Do they like to be shaded or in
the full sun?—G.F.

11890.—Thrips on Poar trees.— Will someone give
me the cure for a caterpillar which plays havoc with my
Pear trees? It makes even' leaf on several wall Pear trees
look quite brown. Is it the caterpillar or some fly? One
tree was also affected last year. The appearance of the
trees is quite spoiled this year.—G. A. W.

11891.— Geranium with white foliage.— I have a
seedling Geranium (1883), which has not flowered either
last year or this, planted in south border. Last year it
had one perfectly white side shoot, which I cut off, this
year it has five strong shoots from the roots, perfectly
white. I have cut off the centre stem, which was green,
leaving only the white foliage, about 12 inches high. Is
thcro any probability of my being able to cultivate it as a
white plant ?-G. W.

11892— Indiarubber plant— Will someone tell me
how to manage the above to prevent the leaves turning
yellow and falling off, and are there more than one kind, os
the leaves of some are so much larger than those of
others? Do they require large or small pots ?—J. S.

11893.— Cutting Grass on banks.— Can any reader
inform me of the quickest and simplest way of clipping
Grass on banks where I cannot get with the lawn-mower
or scythe, and whether there is any kind of machine sold
especially for that purpose ?—A Reader.

11894.— Seedling vines.— I have three vines in one
pot grown from seed. They are now 11 inches high. I
would like to know if they will fruit, and when. 1 would
like to fruit them in the pot. Any information will oblige.
—Subscriber.

11895.—Beetles in houses.— Can you suggest any
means of getting rid of black beetles in a house ? I have
tried all sorts er so-called..boqtte powders, but with little
success ? —BKKTLK. / y-w I ^

DigiFzec by VjO <216

hav ; e very nearly exhausted the conditions
which go to make up a thoroughly efficient wall
tree cover. The annexed illustration will be
almost self-explanatory of a wall tree cover
designed by Mr. F. A. Fawkes to meet the above
requirements. As will be seen by the engraving
the cover consists of a light, permanent frame¬
work, in front slightly inclined from the perpen¬
dicular, held in its position by light cast iron T
ribs, which can be fixed to the wall by bolts and
nuts, or, where there is an objection to anything
passing through the walls, by coach screws.
The roof ribs are hollowed in the centre to carry
to the front any drip or rain which may find its
way between the roof sashes. Upon the roof
and front are lights held by special hinges, so
constructed that the lights are secure, and yet
may be unhooked in a moment when it is neces¬
sary to do so. Each light is provided with a
simple ratchet set open, so that ventilation to
any extent may be effected from the inside or
the out, and the lights are held automatically in
whatever position they may be placed ; or the
cover can be stripped of upper or lower lights or
both in a few moments. Nets may be hung in
place of the upper or lower lights or both. This
cover, which is manufactured by Messrs.
Dennis, of Chelmsford, is sent out ready to put
up by any intelligent labourer. As the lights
simply drop on to the framework, there is little
trouble in fixing.

Insects In Canaries.— Dissolve a pennyworth of
white precipitate powder in half a tea cup of warm water.
Dip the biro in it, taking care none of the solution gets into
its mouth or eyes. Then dip the bird well in pure warm
water, and place it in the sun or by the fire to dry. Dust
the cage well with Keating’s Insect Powdor. It comes from
want of allowing the biras to batho properly.—M. K. L

BEES.

SEASONABLE NOTES.

The casting out of the drone brood and the de¬
struction of the drones now taking place, proves
that the honey season is nearly over. The
workers worry and haul about the drones,
driving them from the combs, causing them to
crowd in heaps upon the floor-board, where
they become weak and die, or are ruthlessly
driven forth from the hive and allowed to
perish.

Condemned bees. —Now is the time for the
more advanced apiarian to do a good turn for
his brother bee-keepers of the old school, by
rescuing their bees from the brimstone pit,
saving their lives by driving and joining them
to stocks that are to be kept for another season.
Colonies of bees thus strengthened are sure to
do exceedingly well the following season, as a
large colony is able to maintain the proper
degree of warmth in cold weather, and take full
advantage of every opportunity of gathering
honey and pollen in the early spring. Driven bees
may also be united, two or three lots together,
feeding them up rapidly so as to have a suffi¬
cient quantity of sealed stores for wintering
upon. Care must, however, be taken not to
feed too rapidly, or an undue proportion of
drone comb will be built. To drive bees suc¬
cessfully the first thing to be done is to cause
them to gorge themselves with honey, for when
in this condition they are very little disposed
to sting. This is the reason bees seldom sting
at swarming time. Every bee in the swarm
has filled itself with honey in order to start fair
in its new home. Well, to induce bees to
fill themselves with honey, all that is necessary
is to blow a little smoke into the entrance of the
hive to be operated upon. The smoke from
lighted brown paper, old fustian, or touch-wood
is the best for the purpose. The hive is then
turned bottom upwards, and placed on a pail or

S an, to keep it steady, if round-topped ; if
at-topped, it can be placed on a stool or table.
An empty hive is then fixed over it (by means of
driving-irons) like an open lid, the edges of the
hives being brought together at the point toward
which the combs run, and an iron skewer passed
through the edge of the empty hive into the one
below, so forming a hinge. The sides of the full
hive are then rapped with the hands sufficiently
to jar the combs, when the bees become
alarmed, and are soon seen rushing up into the
empty hive. In warm weather most of the
bees can thus be driven up in ten minutes, if
care be taken to continue the rapping on the
sides of the hive the whole time, otherwise they-
will cease running, and many remain upon the
brood combs. By careful observation, the
queen can usually be seen going up in the
crowd, and can be removed, if so desired, by
gently grasping her over the wings with the
thumb and hnger. If it is not wished to see or
capture the queen, the empty hive may be
placed close over the full hive—mouth to mouth
—and a cloth tied round the junction of the two
hives to prevent the escape of any of the
bees in their upward march. This w f ay
answers just as well as open driving, and is
preferred by some as involving less risk of being
stung, which can, however, always be avoided
by taking the precaution of wearing a bee-veil.
Anyhow, there is the great satisfaction of know¬
ing that we are thus obtaining the honey with¬
out destroying the bees, and, further, that the
honey so obtained is free from the taint of
sulphur.

Uniting driven bees to stocks. —Success
in uniting bees depends upon their having the
same scent. The hive to which we wish to join
a driven lot of bees is therefore smoked anti
turned mouth upwards, and the bees sprinkled
with thin sugar syrup, scented with peppermint,
and the driven bees treated in like manner. The
stock-hive, being replaced on the floor-board, is
propped up an inch or so, and the driven bees
thrown from the skep upon a sheet placed in
front of it. The bees, with a loud hum, run up
into the stock hive, and become peacefully
united. The stock to be driven, and that to
which it is intended to unite it, should pre
viously have been gradually brought together.
Boxworth. S. S. G.

Wasps in Bee -hives. — Will anyone
kindly tell me what can I do to prevent wasps
JWIAwgR FlMriklK'J 1 contracting the

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

August 23, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

295

doors ? Is there anything that I can place by
the hives that will attract the wasps and not
the bees? Does anyone know where I can
obtain the felt sold at one penny per foot men¬
tioned in Pettigrew’s “ Handy book for Bees?”
—E. H. [Contracting the mouth of the hive,
so that the bees may be the better able to
defend themselves, is probably the only thing
that can be done to prevent the entry of the
wasps. The zig-zag, tunnel-like entrance pro¬
vided to some bar-frame hives gives the
defenders a great advantage over their enemies.
Weak hives, in spite of all precaution, are fre¬
quently cleared of all their stores in a compara¬
tively short space of time, the wasps working
early and late till their object is accomplished—
another reason why the golden rule of keeping
all stocks strong should be followed. Many
wasps may be easily taken in wide-mouthed
pickle bottles half filled with a mixture of beer,
sugar, and water, and put about in places most
frequented by them. Search should be made
for wasps’ nests, and the nests destroyed by
pouring a little turpentine, paraffin, or tar into
the hole leading to the nest, and covering up
with clay ; this is most effectually accomplished
in the evening when the wasps are all within.
The felt (ordinary roofing felt) can be obtained
in any town, of oilmen, sack merchants, and
others.—S. S. G.]

Swarming—Supering. —I have a first
swarm, which only came off three weeks ago,
and which, though late, is a very strong one.
It is in a medium-sized straw skep (without
hole in crown), and has been fed daily since.
The hive now appears to be very full of bees,
large numbers clustering on the alighting
board during the last few days. I should feel
obliged if you would kindly say whether there
is any probability of them throwing a cast, and
•whether it is too late to cut a hole in the
crown as advised by “ S. S. G.” some weeks
ago, and put a small glass super on to hold not
more than 2 lb. or 3 lb. ?—\V. II. B. [Unless
44 YV. H. B.” is near the heather he will not
obtain any super honey so late in the season.
The hot weather we have been having caused
the bees to crowd on the alighting board. The
swarming season is over.—S. S. G.]

POULTRY.

BEST BREEDS OF POULTRY.

The question is often asked me, “Which
breed of poultry is the best to keep ? I want to
keep a few hens for eggs, and to supply the table
witn chicken, but I don’t want each egg to cost
me threepence or more, or chicken double the
price at which I can purchase them at the
poulterer’s.” Now this is a common enough
question, but my answer appears to be unintelli¬
gible to the querist, because he does not know
anything about poultry. I tell him there is no
best breed. There are some fowls suitable for
confinement, others not. There are breeds
noted for their egg-production, and absence of
broodiness, but then the chicken would not
make good table fowls. There are breeds first-
class for the table, but deficient in their yield of
eggs. “But is there not a breed that combines
both these qualities ?” No ; it has yet to be
found. The nearest approach to this model of
egg and meat production is to be found in the
French breeds. Poultry exhibition is not so
well understood, or carried to such an excess,
there as it is in this country ; consequently there
is more attention paid to the useful qualities of
the fowls than to feather-marking, &c. The
Houdan is a good layer of good-sized eggs, and
is a good table fowl, but then it is not altogether
eaited to our variable climate. 1 do not dispute
that hundreds of Houdans have been reared in
this country, but as a rule they are not hardy
taough to roam about a farmsteading in all
weathers.

Cross-dreeds and Spanish Breeds. —Cross¬
bred birds have been found to be both good layers
aod meat producers, and with care and some
labour a race could no doubt be manufactured
to supply both requirements ; many would be
better employed in solving this problem in
some practical way than in breeding to get
colours and markings to the feathers. For
layers there is nothing to beat the Hamburg and
Spanish _ races, which^^jnclude Miyorcas,
Andalusian, and Leghoi

Dicitiz"^-

uch include Miuorcas,
orns ; and. if k^nui e to be

kept for their eggs, a few of these breeds will
give the best results. I have had experience of
every breed, excepting Malays, that is kept in
this country, and unhesitatingly assert that
none of them can come up to the Spanish and
Hamburg for eggs.

Eo<; v. Chicken Production.—Now the
question narrows itself into this, seeing we can¬
not combine egg and meat production, which is
the more profitable to keep fowls for ? I say
for egg-production, Lor the following reasons :
Eggs always command a ready sale, and will
bring at least Is. 3d. per dozen on an average
in a good market. A Spanish fowl will lay, say,
120 eggs per annum—not to over-estimate—
which at Is. 3d. per dozen gives 12s. fid. ; sup¬
posing that a dozen hens are kept, the proceeds
would be £7 10s. The cost of keep, supposing
each hen cost l£d. per week—and they should
not cost this, if they have liberty—the outlay
would be £3 18s.—leaving a net profit of £3 12s.,
that is supposing there is no loss on the stock
from disease, accidents &c. On the other hand,
if chicken were to be reared for the market,
Dorkings would be required. The cost of keep
would be about the same ; but then broody hens
would have to be secured, the chicks’ food would
be expensive, and there would be the risk of bad
hatchings, chicks dying, besides double the
labour, worry, and trouble which the non-sit¬
ting breeds entail. The pleasure of rearing a
few chicks, and watching them through tne
different stages of growth, is not to be considered
here, as it is not pleasure, but a matter of
pounds, shillings, and pence I am now discus¬
sing.

But as I reduced the last case to figures, let
me do the same in this case. A dozen Dorking
hens w’ould lay at least a third less eggs than
the Spanish, say eighty per hen. This is a low
average, but is taken in proportion to the
Spanish, and not supposing the strain to be
selected for good laying, but for table qualities.

] f fifty chickens were to be .reared at least one
hundred eggs would have to be set; this would
leave 860 to sell, which, at Is. 3d. per dozen,
would give £4 9s. 7d. Fifty chickens sold
(assuming all to be reared, which is rather im¬
probable) at 2s. 6d. each, £6 5s. Total—
£10 148. 7d. The cost of food for broody hens,
and loss in price paid for them, say 7s. Chicks’
food (they must be liberally fed on good sound
food, and kept till three or four months old), say
£4 10s. Cost of hens’ keep, £3 18s. Total cost
—£8 15s., thus showing a profit of £1 19s. 7d.,
against that of £3 12s. for egg-production.
These figures are only approximate, but are
based on actual experience. The amount of
profit will depend greatly on the attendant’s
abilities, both for rearing and selling the pro¬
duce.

It will be seen that everything has been
put down at the lowest cost, and it should not
be difficult in ordinary circumstances to get a
better price for the chicks; but, even sup¬
posing this, there is the extra labour expended
on the chicks for which no charge is made,
and there is the risk of an epidemic clearing
off the young stock. Granted this would be
very unlikely to happen, unless the manage¬
ment was bad, still, individual deaths will
happen under the best treatment, and no
account has been, or can be, taken of this in
such an estimate. One cock at least will be
necessary, and his keep is not taken into
account. But for hens kept for eggs no male
attendant is needed, as they will lay quite as
well without one. All things considered, it will
be found more profitable to grow eggs than
chicks; and I do not hesitate to say that a
managing cotter’s wife having a small run and
nice young hens could double the profit I have
stated. I have reckoned every item to be
bought, whereas there mil always be kitchen
scraps, and where there is a garden—and most
people in the country at least have one—
vegetables will cost nothing. But in conclusion
a word of warning is necessary. Because a
few hens show a handsome profit it does not
follow that a large number could be kept to
yield the same profit in proportion. Many
suppose that if a few give such a good return,
it would be a good investment to go in for
keeping a large number ; or what is called
44 poultry farming.” Practical consideration of
the question will show the absurdity of this, and
the reason why poultry keeping on a large scale
does not pay. P.

Diarrhoea in chicks.— As a preventive of
this complaint—prevalent at this season—it is
said that nothing is better than bone meal, of
which a little should be put in the soft food
every day. It acts most beneficially upon the
stomach, and at the same time provides
material for building up the frame of the bird,
supplying just those parts which are often
wanting in artificial food, and which the fowls
in a state of nature would be able to obtain quite
easily. Should diarrhoea declare itself, a little
more bone meal may be mixed in the soft food.

Points of buff Cochins.— The cock
should be large, not less than 11 poundsiu weight,
broad breasted, short in back, with plenty of
cushion rising up to the tail; legs short, yellow
coloured, and heavily feathered to the toes ;
comb single and upright ; colour, any shade of
buff*, cinnamon, or lemon, the breast and lower
parts being lighter than the hackles and over
the back and wing ; the tail bronze, with as few
black feathers in it as possible, and no sickle
feathers. The hen in colour corresponds with
the lower parts of the cock, excepting the
hackle, which is a shade darker ; weight from
9 pounds to 11 pounds ; short-legged and very
heavily feathered, with plenty of fluff and
cushion. The colour must be perfectly even all
through, no “mealiness” or uneven colour
allowed. —Psyche.

Fowls with sores on legs — I would strongly
recommend Jeye’s Fluid, instead of carbolic acid, it
mixes so well with water, and is very useful for skin
diseases, &c., &c.—J. S.

AQUARIA.

Pish for aquarium. —I have been read¬
ing answers to correspondents concerning gold
fish, but I do not see quite all I want to know.
I have a glass aquarium 25 inches long, 14 inches
wide, and 14 inches deep. How many fish
would this size hold ? Should I require stones
3 inches deep? Is it necessary to put tench,
carp, stickleback, or others in the aquarium ?
Is river, rain, or hard water best ? YVould a
vinery heated from 60 degs. to 90 degs. or a
greenhouse heated sufficiently to keep frost out
be best ? Would fish breed in an aquarium this
size ? How often should the water be changed ?
Do the fish require feeding ?—G. S.

Minnows in aquarium.— How can minnows he
kept healthy in a bell-fflass aquarium holding 7 or 8 gallons
and standing in a south window; also how often should
they be fed ?—Makoarita.

Ivy edging’s. —About this season those
who have the opportunity should contrast these
with Box edging, and notice how much fresher,
greener, and prettier they are. Shorn down in
spring, they are soon clothed with fresh green
foliage such as Ivy only can produce when so
treated, and at this season, when the fresh
growth of Box edgings is being cut off with the
shears at much cost and labour, leaving the
edging brown and rusty-looking for the next
six or eight months, the Ivy is just at its best,
and looks fresh and green.

Flower buds best for cutting.—
Y\ T herever hardy flowers are utilised for room
decoration it cannot be too generally known
that they open far more clean and beautiful
indoors if cut in the fully developed bud stage
—that is, immediately before the buds naturally
expand. This fact is pretty well known by those
who send cut flowers to market, but it should
also be fully understood by every gardener, and
especially by all ladies whose especial province
it is to ornament their rooms with beautiful
blossoms. All Narcissi, all Gladioli, all Lilies
open fresh and fair when cut in the full-grown
bud stage and placed in w'ater indoors. Even
Roses and Pa?onies and Water Lilies, both
native and tropical, are rarely seen in perfection
indoors uuless so treated. So convinced are we
of this, that the majority of flowers sent to
friends or used for decorative purposes are cut
in the bud state, and the result is that little or
no damage results from packing or transit, and
the flowers endure fresh and fair for a much
longer period than they do if cut in the fully
expanded or full-blown stage, as is too com¬
monly the case. To all who wish to make the
most of all flowers, tender or hardy, our advice

u, NO IS AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILL USTRATED

[August 23 , 1884 .

2f>6

HOUSEHOLD.

To preserve Green Peas. — Hare the
Peas freshly gathered. In order to have them
all of the same size, pass them through a fine
riddle; no small ones mpst be used. Fill
champagne bottles with the Peas, add one tea-
spoonful of powdered sugar to each bottle ; then
cover the Peas with salt and water thick enough
to float an egg ; cork and tic down firmly, taking
care that there is 1 inch space l>etween the cork
and water. Put some hay in the bottom of a
lish kettle, place the bottles on it, and pour in
enough water to half cover them ; let them boil
up once, then simmer for two hours. Let the
bottles get cold in the water. When required
for use, soak the Peas in water, then boil in the
usual way just to warm them.—A. W.

Red Currant jelly.— Pick the Red Cur¬
rants on a tine dry day : let them be thoroughly
ripe ; put a large handful at a time in a jelly
bag, and squeeze as dry as possible into a basin
until there is sufficient juice for a boil; then
weigh 1 lb. of the juice in a jug (taking care to
weigh the jug first) ; add 1 lb. of sugar to every
pound of juice ; put them both together in the
preserving pan and boil for twenty-five minutes ;
take a little of the jelly out on to a plate, and
if it sets in five minutes the jelly is done. Pot¬
ting in small pots is best. Let it Btand over
night on the storeroom table; next morning
cover with buttered paper. A few shrimp pots
might be filled with the jelly so that it can be
turned out whole if desired. A few egg-cups
could also be tilled with it, and a blanc-mange
made for supper, with the egg-cup jellies turned
out and set round it. This jelly is much better
to stand a day or two before being used.

Preserving Raspberries.— At this time
of the year the Raspberries will require picking
everj T two days, as if left longer they soon grow
tasteless. Care should be taken to pick them
thoroughly each time, as the ripe ones which
may be left in a hurried picking grow dead ripe
before the next picking and taste very dis¬
agreeable. All kinds of fruit should he picked
in as dry a Btate as possible, as if picked wet
they are very liable to turn mouldy after being
preserved, and great care should be taken to
avoid this. When preserving it is best to re¬
move the scum just before the jam is ready to
come off the fire. When the fruit and sugar
are first put on the fire, they must be stirred
constantly, or they will burn to the bottom.
Fruit which has to be kept as whole as possible,
such as Strawberries, Plums, &c., must not be
stirred roughly, or it will break the fruit, but
gently stirred one way all the time.

Buttermilk cake. —Three-miarters of
pound of flour, 1 tablespoonful baking powder
a pinch of salt, 5 ounces sugar, 2 ounces
currants, *2 ounces raisins, 1 ounce lemon peel,

1 gill buttermilk, ‘2 ounces butter, 3 ounces lard.
Mix the flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar,
then rub in the butter and lard until it is
thoroughly mixed with the flour, &c. Add the
currants, raisins, and the lemon peel chopped
fine, next the buttermilk, and mix thoroughly
for five minutes. Rutter strips of paper and put
them inside cake rings, put the mixture into the
rings, and stand in a very hot oven until slightly
browned over ; next move on to a cooler shelf
to finish baking.

Scotch shortbread. — Two pounds of
flour, 1 pound butter, quarter pouud loaf sugar,
half ounce of caraway seeds, 1 ounce of sweet
almonds, and a few Btrips of orange peel. Heat
the butter to a cream, gradually dredge in the
flour, and add the sugar, caraway seeds, and
sweet almonds, which should be blanched and
cut into small pieces. Work the paste until it
is quite smooth, and divide it into six pieces.
Put each cake on a separate piece of paper, loll
the paste out square to the thickness of ubout
an inch, and pinch it on all sides. Put the cakes
into a good oven, and bake them from twenty
five to thirty minutes. Cost about *2s.

Yeast for home-made bread. — Take
1 ounce of hops and 1 pound of malt; put in
nan of cold water (two gallons) and let it boil,
When it begins to boil, let it continue to do so
for 15 minutes. Have ready a large basin into
which you have put 1 pint of flour very smoothly
stirred up with 1 pint of w ater, and on to this
strain your l>Arm amLJcave it by tlui aide of the

of old

barm to this, and bottle it. This will make
1*2 quarts of barm, and you must use 1 quart to
10 pounds of flour w r hen you bake. The first
time you make this, you must get a little
brewer’s or baker’s barm, os, of course, you
have none of your own by you to add.

Spruce beer.— One gallon of water, one
quart of good molasses, a quarter of an ounce of
whole cloves, a quarter of an ounce of white
ginger root, half an ounce of whole allspice, and
half an ounce of sassafras. Roil all well for
three hours. After taking it off the fire, pour
it into a clean tub, and add one and a-half
gallons of water. Let this stand till milk-warm,
then add two tablcspoonfuls of baker’s or
brewer’s yeast; then place in the cellar or
some cool place, during the night, covering it.
The next day it will be fit for bottling. One or
two raisins with a few* holes punched in them
with a fork, placed in each bottle, add greatly
to its flavour. Put it in strong bottles, cork
tightly, and tie dowm witli twine. Set it in a
cold cellar, and in three or four days it will be
ripe.

Cornflour cake. —j lb. cornflour, 1 tea.
spoonful baking-powder, ‘2 oz. butter, 3 oz-
pounded loaf sugar, 2 eggs. Beat the butter
to a cream, add the Bugar and mix well, then
break in 2 eggs, and beat all well together.
Stir in the cornflour and a teaspoonful of
baking-powder lightly, and beat quickly for
five minutes ; then pour the mixture into a
greased cake-tin, and put it immediately into
the oven—which should be extremely hot to
bake for half an hour; turn the cake out of the
tin, and slant it against a plute until cold.

Black Currant vinegar — 1 To every quart of picked
Currants put one pint of vinegar; let it stand about, three
da\B, stirring occasionally ; then strain arid squeeze the
Currant* through a fine sieve or close cream cloth, and to
every pint of juice add l j pounds lump sugar ; simmer for
about twenty minutes, or till the sugar is dissolved ; pour
into a jug, let it stand till cold, then bottle, tying closely
down. For a sore throat or cold this is excellent.

C. FRAZER,

Horticultural Builder, Norwioh.

Three-quarter Harden Frame, with new (registered! Bet-ope*
sud Corner Fastenings. Made of best Bed Deal, sides and
end* 1J inches thick, lights 2 inches thick. Olaxod with

m_ ..i. font* Ai'iaffl iif i/fiOi

MELON k CUCUMBER
FRAMES.

Glazed and painted,
complete, 25s.

21-oz. glass, and minted four c.uita of good oil colour.
No. 1 size, 4 feet by 6 feet. £2 17fl. No. 2 size, 8 feet by 6
feet, £4 10s. No. 3 size, 1'2 feet by f> feet, £b 5s. 6<L 1 ocking

m

ca*cafruin4«. uTfts. 6d. * Two-thirds’allowed when returned.

Set of 6 Handlights to cover 15 square feet, diminishing
sizes, painted 3 coats, glazed with 21-oz. glass, i>cr set, £1 15s.

The "Universal” Handllght Protectors for kitchen gardens,
set of 6, covers 31 square feet, diminishing
coats of good oil colour glazed with 21-oz. glass per so
£2 12s.

Cucumber Frames, made of best Red Deal, painted 4 coats of
kikmI oil colour, height at front 13 inches, at back 24 inches,
lights 2 inches thick, with improved bars and glazed with
21-oz. gloss; Iron bar across centre and handle to each light
No. 2 size. 8 feet by 6 feet, £3 4a. 6tL No. 3 size. 12 feet by 6
feet. £4 12a 6d. Coses 5a.; two-thirds allowed if returned in
good condition. _ _

Carriage paid to any Railway Station in England and
Wales, also to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Dublin, and Belfast
Illustrated catalogue* of Greenhouses, Garden Frames, Ac.,
post-free two peuuy stamps.

JOHN PIGGOTT.

P lease send, for Pries Lists, post frts,

GARDEN HOSE.

DEFORE Purchasing Greenhouses call and

D inspect stock at the Whittington Horticultural Works.
Span Roof Greenhouses from £5 5s. Lean-to from £4 lbs.
All kinds of Conservatories made to order. Catalogues Free
on application.—Note address. -GKO. DAWSUN, Horti¬
cultural Builder, Highgute Mill. London, N. |U74

Genuine Garden Requisites,

AS SUPPLIED TO THE ROYAL GARDENS,

the leading Gentry, and Florists of the United Kingdom,
Cocoa-nut Fibre Refuse, best only. Is. 6iL per sack ; 10 for 13s.;
15 for 13s. ; 20 for 22a ; 30 for 30s., sacks included. Truck,
containing more than two tons, free on rail, 33s. Selected
Brown Fibrous Peat, 5a. per sack ;5 for 22s. 6<L Black Peat,
4a. 6d. per sack; 5 for 20 h. Coarse Silver 8amb Is. 6d. per
bushel; 14s. half ton; 25s. per ton. Yellow Fibrous Loam,
Leaf Mould, and Peat MouldL each at Is. per bushel.
Sacks anu Bags 4p. each. Fresh Sphagnum, Ba. Gd. per
Buck. Manures, Carden StickB, Labels. Virgin Cork, Russian
Mats, Radio, Prepared ComjioHt, Fertiliser, Ac. Best
TOBACCO CLOTH, 8«L per lb.; 28 lb.. 18 a HPECIALITK
Tobacco Paper, lDd. per lb.; 28 lb. 21s. Price List on npplica-
tion.-W. HERBERT A. CO , 2, Hop Exchange Warehouses,
Southwark Street. London S E. (late 19. New Broad Street).

GARDEN REQUISITES.

3C0A-NUT FIBRE REFUSE, Is. 3d. per

bag; 10 bags for 12a.; 30 for 30s. ; truck load, free on
rail. 30s. ; Best Brown Fibrous Peat, 5a. tier sack. 5 for 22s. 6d.;
Black Fibrous Peat, 4s. fUL per sack, 5 for 20s.; Coarse Silver
Sand. Is. 6d. per bushel; Yellow Fibrous Loam, Leaf, and
Peat Mould, Is. tier bush. Potting Compost, Is 4d per bush.:
5s. per sack. Manures of all kinds. Garden StickB and
Labels. Tobacco Cloth, 8d. tut lb.; Speclalite Paper. lOd. per
lb.—Write for price list. -W. E. W T ARD A CO., Union
Chambers. Wormw ood S treet, London. E C._

OVERSPUN INDIA-RUBBER
SEAMLESS AND PLEATLESS HOSE.

Patent No. 207. 1881.

Every Length tested before being sent out.
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Works : Salford, Manchester.

Registered Office and Warehouse, 6, Bill!ter Street,
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60 feet | 1-ply BEST MAKE Garden Hose, with
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Patterns or Ho.sk sent on Applicatioh.
Parcels 10*. CARRIAGE FREE to any part of Great
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115,116, k 117,rChea])si<le, London

HOSE I HOSE!! HOSElii

PATENT RED RUBBER GARDEN HOSE
Lost* four times os long aa ordinary white vulcanised hoee
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Beware of counterfeit Red Hose. Samples and priced
catalogue of hose, garden engines. and fitting*, free.

MERRY WEATHER & SONS,

_Hole Manufactur ers, 63, Long Acre. London. W.0L

Q.REENHOUSES FOR THE MILLION.—

ALFRED PEEL k SON. Horticultural Builders. Wood
Green, Londonu also. Windhill, Shipley, Yorkshire. Green¬
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__ of our house* erected tn all isirta of the kingdom. Ulus-

Ironuit trom *“ Nur “ rymm ' “^.iJKCiep.'gT'rrorim mrs wr“* “ d

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

AUGUST 30, 1884.

No. 286.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

A FINE AUTUMN CAMPANULA.

Last year we received from Miss Jekyll an
extremely fine variety of Campanula from her
garden at Munstead, Godaiming. So distinct
was it from any other Campanula we knew, that
in the absence of leaves we thought it could
have no affinity with the Peach-leaved Bell¬
flower. Miss Jekyll, however, considered it to
be a variety of it, and she sent us the following
note respecting it:—“A fine variety of Campanula
persicifolia, 4 feet high, blooming long and late,
still in flower (September 7), and likely to bloom
for another fortnight, but coming into flower
when the ordinary garden kinds are going out
of bloom. There is a large
variety of persicifolia figured
in Curtis’s Botanical Maga¬
zine, vol. xii., p. 397, as C.
persicifolia maxima, nearly
agreeing with my flower in
general dimensions, but
different in form, being of a
broad cup or bowl shape, with
the edges of the segments
very slightly turned out¬
wards ; whereas this flower
has a true bell shape, with the
segments of the corollas from
the point of junction pro¬
longed outwardly and then
recurved, this outer part pro¬
jecting five-eighths of an inch
beyond the rim of the bell, and
giving the flower its hand¬
some, wide-spreading charac¬
ter. I am unable to say
certainly where I obtained it,
but think it was one I found,
out of flower, in a valley near
the north-east end of the lake
of Geneva, not necessarily
wild, as the spot is near a
populous place, with many
gardens ; but on asking at
Kew I was told it was by no
means impossible for such a
variety to occur in Switzer¬
land. It is very easy of
culture, increasing rapidly at
the base by underground
stems, as in the ordinary
garden forms.”

CHRYSANTHEMUMS,
EARLY FLOWERING.

Cassy, a stiff-growing kind, has pretty little
flowers, white tipped with lilac. Delphino
Cabochc is reddish mauve and very early.
Frederick Pel<$, bright crimson tipped with
yellow, is dwarf and a free flowerer. Lyon is a
pleasing shade of purple and one of the best of
that tint. Souvenir de M. Rampont, brownish
with orange shade, is a very free grower, but
nevertheless dwarf.

The colours of these Chrysanthemums vary
to such an extent according to the conditions
under which they are grown, that it is impos¬
sible to define their tints too closely ; for in¬
stance, a variety called nanum is out of doors
blush, yet under glass pure white. Though all
those just named can be had in bloom in suc¬
cession till others take their places, yet there
are a few that form as it were
a stepping-stone between the
two. These include Aigle
Vd’Or (bright yellow), Bolide
(yellow pompon), which
soon develop into fine
clumps, and flower freely as
long as outdoor flowers are
procurable. J. G. G.

MAKING AND MANAGE¬
MENT OF SMALL
GARDENS.

(Continued from, page 286 .)
When Permanent Planting
Is effected all digging and
hoeing amongst the plants
should cease, weeds should
be pulled out by hand. No
instruction can be more per¬
nicious than that which is so
frequently given in gardening
books and calendars to “ fork
over the borders.” Thesurface
soil amongst hardy plants
should never be touched with
any kind of tool until the
border is exhausted and
requires renovation. I had a
little piece of border forked
over in the usual way this
spring in my absence, and
half the plants in it imme¬
diately withered and died.
Any disturbance of the roots
of a plant while growing re¬
duces it to a certain extent to
the state of an unrootod
cutting. Digging or forking
over in the winter are equally
ernicious. Small plants and
ulbs look like dead tufts of
roots, or little bits of stick
that have got buried in the
soil, and are destroyed whole¬
sale. Another evil is the total
loss of self-sown seedlings, all
sacrificed to the Moloch of
tidiness. One great point in a small garden is
the keeping of the plants clean. The air of
towns and their suburbs is laden with all kinds
of dust, which has no existence in the country.
If this is allowed to lodge on the leaves of
plants, their breathing pores are choked and
they die. That dust is the principal evil is
shown by the small number of plants which
will grow by the side of a dusty turnpike road.

Bulb3 should be largely planted in small
gardens ; they are beautilul when in bloom, and
easily managed. By far the greater number of
bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants like a light,
rich soil full of the products of vegetable decay.
A light loamy or sandy soil suits them ; many of
them flower and mature their growth early in
the year, and so are admirably fitted for posi¬
tions where larger plants spring up later and
shade them from the summer sun. They should
not be planted singly but in clumps, and if well
managed they will, with the help of other early -
floweiing plants, go far to show that bedding

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

To this class of Chrysanthe¬
mums a good deal of attention
has been devoted during the
last two or three years, as
with but little care they may
be relied on to maintain a
supply of flowers from the
end of summer untilthe regular
Chrysanthemum season comes in. It is by no
means an easy matter to have plenty of flowers all
the year round, yet these Chrysanthemums help
to bridge over what has always been rather a
trying time, most of the summer blooming plants
having lost their beauty by the middle of
September. These Chrysanthemums all belong
to the Pompone section (though some are large
for that class), except one, viz., Madame C.
Desgrange, a large-flowered kind, partaking
somewhat of the character of the Japanese race.
All of the early-flowering sorts make pretty
little plants that succeed in 5-inch or 6-inch
pots, and when in flower are very useful for
decorative purposes. They can also be grown
into good-sized bushes, either in pots or planted
out in the open ground. The latter yield a
quantity of cut flowers, but if in pots and
removed under glass just before the blooms
commence to expand the latter are much purer
in colour than those produced out of doors,
especially white kinds oythlJse nearly wlfite.

Digitized by GOOglt

Portion of flower-stem of a fine variety of Campanula persicifolia (colour bright blue-purple)

3 inches or 4 inches across. Virginia is a pure i
white, remarkably floriferous variety ; La Petite .
Marie, a dwarf habited kind, with flowers like
those of the later and now well-known
Mademoiselle Marthe, white, with, v'hen out of
doors, a tinge of yellow in the centre ; Madame
Jolivart is a stiff-growing dwarf kind, with
flowers midway in size between those of a
Pompone and Madame C. Desgrange ; under j
glass only are they pure w r hite in colour. !
Yellows and kindred shades include Pr6cocit6,
a fine rich golden yellow, the flowers of which
are 2 inches in diameter, habit dwarf, one of the J
earliest; Hendersoni, with flowers very small,
button-like, but borne in great profusion, colour
yellow, sometimes tipped with brown ; Inimi¬
table, a globular flower of a bright amber colour.

Other kinds are Adrastus, not so early as
some of the others, but one of the best as a
border plant, and equally effective under pot
culture. Out of doors the blooms, w hich are |
rosy purple, are produced early in autumn.

| In mixed borders and similar places large
masses of these Chrysanthemums when in bloom
! are very effective. The flowering season depends
■ to a great extent upon the time at which they
! are struck and their subsequent treatment, for
| though some kinds may be had in bloom by
June, yet they can be retarded till September.
The first in flower will be those struck in autumn,
and the others from cuttings taken late in the
spring. There are now a great number of
j varieties, but those mentioned below will be
found among the best. White flowers are
always so much in demand that it is of them I
first propose to speak. Madame C. Desgrange
is a large flower 6 inches or nearly so in diameter
if disbudded, but far more effective when grown
naturally, some of the blooms even then being

298

GARDENING ILL USTIL4 TED

[August 30, 1884.

out deprives a small garden of more than half its
proper period of beauty.

Tne following are comparatively cheap and
should be in every small gardenScilla sibirica,
S. bifolia, S. amcena, S. nutans (the Wood
Hyacinth, red, rose, and white, good for town
gardens), S. campanulata, Muscari botryoides,
the Grape Hyacinth, and M. comosum
monstrosum, the feather Hyacinth, pretty in
clumps. Snowdrops, single and double, the
giant kinds, plicatus, Imperati, and Elwesii are
very fine. Anemone Pulsatilla good in dry soils,
Anemone apeninna, Anemone coronaria, single
and double, known as florists’, French, Dutch,
Scotch, and Crown Anemones—these present a
great variety of colours. They should be planted
where they can be sheltered from the summer
sun ; they require a top-dressing of leaf-mould,
and light, mellow, well-prepared soil to begin
with. The Star or Daisy Anemones, A. stellata,
and A. fulgens, require the same treatment. A.
fulgens resembles a scarlet Ox-eye Daisy. Tulips
should be planted where they can be lifted when
the bulbs are ripe. They bloom better if lifted
and dried annually ; they give a long succession
of bloom. The Van Thols with pointed petals
are the earliest, and are immediately succeeded
by the Pottebakker and hybrid kinds, followed
by the gorgeous Parrot Tulips with fringed
petals, which keep up the succession until May,
when the florists’kinds descended from Gesner’s
Tulip come in. Daffodils are a host in them¬
selves in the spring garden. The common Lent
Lily is as pretty as any of the small kinds, but
it is difficult to make a selection. It is scarcely
possible to go wrong. Of the double kinds all
are good. The double and single Jonquils,
white and yellow, are pretty, sweet-scented,
and useful for cutting. The Poet’s Narcissus,
both single and double, is indispensable. In a
rich soil Polyanthus Narcissi are very showy,
and give no trouble. Sisyrinchum grandiflorum
looks well amongst spring flowers if a clump is
planted, there being nothing of the same habit
above ground at the same time. There is a
white variety. The Crown Imperial is a showy
spring bulb of distinct habit; it does best in
light calcareous sand, and should be left undis¬
turbed for years. The colour of the flower
varies from orange red to pale primrose. Immedi¬
ately following the latest Tulips come the earliest
Gladioli, byzantinus, Colvillei, communis, nanus,
and ramosus. These make a brilliant show,
and are all more or less hardy ; but should be
planted early in spring in the first instance.
Along with these the beautiful English and
Spanish Iris come into bloom. No garden can
be called complete without some good clumps of
these. They look best in groups of a dozen
bulbs in two colours only, such as white and
yellow, bronze and purple, white and blue, &c.
Following these come the later Gladioli.
Gladiolus brenchleyensis is well known, but it
cannot be compared with some of the gandaven-
sis varieties. These are truly magnificent, and
with good cultivation produce individual blooms
almost as large as those of the White Lily, and
of every shade of rose, red, scarlet, crimson,
white, yellow, and purple, most with several
shadescombinedinthe same flower. Nobulbcould
be less troublesome. The Lilies are summer-
flowering bulbs par excellence. Some require
special soils and positions, but there are many
that are quite suitable for small gardens. The
following should be planted in light, rich loam
and leaf-mould, on a well-drained hard bottom :
Lilium candidum (the common white Lily),
L. excelsum (the Nankeen Lily), L. chalce-
donicum (the scarlet Turk’s cap), L. tigrinum
(the Tiger Lily), L. davuricum in variety, and
L. Thunbergianum in variety. The last are from
1 to 2 feet high, but with large flowers. A fine
late summer-flowering bulb for the south of
England is the Agapanthus, a fine plant of the
Lily family, 4 feet high when full grown. It
requires a soil rich in vegetable matter and
good drainage, as it is not hardy if allowed to
become damp in winter. The Quamash
(Camassia esculenta) is similar, but more hardy;
these have blue flowers. The Alstiocmerias
require similar treatment. All these plants
will well repay the little care required to grow
them well in the open ground, where, when
established, they flower much more finely than
when grown in pots. A fine plant for a sheltered
position is Sparaxis pulcherrima, with tall
grassy leaves 4 or 5 fe^J; high, and ^pikes of
pendent flowers, rose, j^rimspi^ n;

Digitizer b"

i, and spikes of
j>r>'hite.

It looks best in a clump, like a plant of
Pampas Grass. Tigridias should always be
grown in a small garden where the soil is deep,
rich, and well manured. They require to be
planted in March in the first instance, 8
inches deep, and to have a little protection
in very severe weather. The flowers are scarlet,
6 or 7 inches across. T. Pavonia is the
best. T. conchiflora has yellow flowers spotted
with scarlet and crimson in the centre. The
flowers barely last a day, but are produced in
quick succession, the clumps remaining in bloom
for many weeks. Schizostylis coccinea is a
scarlet-flowering bulb resembling a Gladiolus,
and flowering late in the autumn. Colchicums
are autumn-flowering bulbs, which send up
Crocus-like flo were without any leaves—“ Naked
boys” the Kentish people call them. Our native
kind varies in colour from deep purple to pure
white. The leaves rise in spring in a bold tuft,
bringing the seed vessel with them. A few
tufts on the edge of Grass are effective. There
are double varieties. There are exotic kinds
with large flowers, too expensive as yet for
small gardens. There are many other beautiful
bulbs, but these are quite sufficient to select
from.

Of herbaceous plants and dwarf shrubs we will
begin with the dwarfest. Of our native plants
there is a double variety of the common Bird’s-
foot Trefoil, which must be a useful plant;
although not having seen it I cannot recommend
it with confidence. The single kind has been
in bloom for over two months. Sedum spurium
is a pretty dwarf-spreading plant, like a minia¬
ture London Pride, forming rosettes of leaves
in the same way. It produces bunches of
purplish rose-coloured flowers in great profusion
in August and September. It completely carpets
the ground. Achillea ageratoides, A. Clavennai,
A. tomentosa, and A. umbellata, Armeria
cephalotes rubra, Linaria alpina, Lithospermum
prostratum, Oxalis floribunaa, Saxifraga Wal-
lacei, S. granulata fl.-pl., Santolina incana,
Saponaria ocymoides, Senecio argenteus, Silene
alpestris, S. maritima fl.-pl., Thymus montanus
albus, V eronica rupestris, and V eronica prostrata.
These are all very dwarf, most of them not
exceeding in height the double Daisy.

Of taller , but still duarf plants .—The well-
known border Pinks and Pansies are a host in
themselves. Papaver nudicaule should be
grown by all. Statice latifolia, S. Limonium, and
S. tatarica are unlike everything else.
(Enothera macrocarpa, (E. taraxacifolia, and
(E. eximia, are beautiful Evening Primroses,
with very large flowers ; the last two are white.
Caltha palustris fl.-pl. is a fine plant for a
damp soil. All kinds of Mimulus are good for
similar places. Spiraea Filipendula fl.-pl. is
not a showy plant, but is evergreen, and useful
for cut flowers. Campanula carpatica, C.
turbinata, and C. Hendersoni are good blue
bells. Plumbago Larpentae is useful for autumn.
Of taller plants, Monarda didyma, Aquilegia
ccerulea, A. chrysantha, and A. vulgaris are
useful. Centranthus ruber is showy, and
Achillea Ptarmica fl.-pl. is good for cutting.
Centaurea montana is a perennial Cornflower.
Helenium pumilum is a good yellow Daisy.
Linum flavum is a good yellow flax. Pent-
stemon Jaffrayanus, P. heterophyllus, and P.
azureus, with blue flowers, and P. barbatus, a
tall kind, with scarlet flowers, are useful
perennials, being rather tender, cuttings and
seeds should be saved. The large-leaved
Saxifrages (Megaseas) are telling amongst dwarf
plants, and the Funkias, or Plantain Lilies, are
useful in the same way. Echinops ruthenicus
and Eryngium amethystinum are beautiful
thistle-like foliage plants, which look as if
made of blue steel. Kniphofias, or red-hot
poker plants, are very telling in sunny places.
They like a damp soil, and plenty of water in
summer. Aster Amellus bessarabicus is a good
aster. In a small garden only a few

Tall-growing herbaceous plants can be grown,
and these should be carefully selected so as to
avoid sameness. The following would be a
choice and distinct selection:—Papa verorientale,
Galega officinalis alba, Harpalium rigidum,
Campanula persicifolia alba plena, C. macrantha,
(Enothera speciosa, Helianthus multiflorus
(double and single), Geum coccineum plenum,
Scabiosa caucasica, Lupinus arboreus, L. poly-
phyllus albus, Dictamnus Fraxinella, Lychnis
vespertina fl.-pl., and L. Viscaria splendens
plena, $pirapa palmata. There are many other

§ ood plants which, if admitted, would exclude
orists’ flowers and biennials, and which are
equalled or surpassed by annuals. Florists’
flowers should be grown extensively in all small
gardens. To begin with the earliest, Pyrethrums
are very hardy and easily managed. They do best
where their leaves are shaded from the midday
sun, and their flowers run up into sunlight.
They are surface-rooters, and will not do in
bare borders, continually tidied up; they also
require plentiful top-dressings. Delphiniums
require a rich, deep, well-worked soil, and
should not be grown more than two years in the
same ground. They look best in clumps of two
or three plants. The very tall, pale-blue kind
(D. elatum) is a fine object when well grown.
Pansies and Pinks have been already noticed.
Phloxes are capital subjects for small gardens.
The earlier kinds, descended from suffruticosa,
require a cool place in southern districts.
They have done well in the cool seasons
we have had lately, sometimes blooming
twice in the season. They are not so tall
as the later kinds, the leaves are glossy and
the flowers quieter in colour. The late Phloxes
are amongst the finest and most decorative
plants grown. They require a good light soil,
rich in vegetable matter, and must have all the
ground they require to themselves, as they pro¬
duce a perfect mat of roots. Top-dressing and
liquid manure is the best way of feeding them.
They should not remain more than two years in
the same place, and large single trusses can only
be produced by taking cuttings early in spring
to be planted out as soon as rooted. This is a
simple matter, as nothing roots more easily
than the Phlox. With anything like good
cultivation most of the varieties will produce
trusses of bloom as large as a straw beehive,
somekindB are as brilliant in colour asGeraniums.
Dahlias are amongst the most useful things in a
small garden. They can be put out after Tulips
and spring annuals are cleared away, and re¬
quire a minimum of attention. Carnations are
first-rate plants for amateurs, they require a
light, well-drained soil which their roots can
easily penetrate ; the earth they root in should
be kept so that the foot will sink in it. The
perpetual flowering kinds are the best for small
gardens. In favourable seasons they produce
several crops of bloom, and some kinds bloom
almost continuously. They have the additional
advantage that they strike easily from pipings
taken from the young growth in spring, which
can be planted out in the autumn or kept
in pots until spring, so that a stock of vigorous
young plants is easily kept up. Old plants
are liable to damp off in muggy weather. I have
not grown them for some years owing to un¬
favourable soil and climate, but it seemed to me
when growing them in a light loam on gravel
that this loss of plants might be prevented by
thinning out the shoots well in autumn and
giving the soil a surfacing of flints, or an inch
or two of sand, so that the prostrate shoots
might rest on a dry surface. It is useless
attempting to grow them in districts of
undrained pasture land on clay, but when the
country round is chalk, gravel, or sand, they
may be relied on. Antirrhinums are extremely
valuable, they make a grand bloom in a poor
soil, provided they have tolenty of sun; the
dwarfs are the most useful, out a few of the tall
ones should be grown. Mortar rubbish mixed
with the soil is good for Antirrhinums, Stocks,
and Wallflowers.

Pentstemons are very suitable for a small
garden, they produce Foxglove-like spikes of
bloom of nearly the colours of the annual Phlox
Drummondi, manv with white throats. They
are barely hardy, but are easily kept up by cut¬
tings kept in a cold frame or unheated
greenhouse during winter. Chrysanthemums
are indispensable, especially in towns. The
early-flowering kinds are a great acquisition,
flowering as they do quite two months before
the others. In the south the later kinds
make grand outdoor plants in sheltered places
if a proper selection is made. Wallflowers
can scarcely be called florists' flowers, but might
be greatly varied by better cultivation than they
usually get. They are really perennial shrubs,
but are not quite hardy in that form, as they
may last several years and then Ixj killed by a
severe late frost. Most kinds are well knowm,
but there is an almost black variety here which
is worth looking after. <L_ D.

fTo bii contbiiicd.\\

URB/

-CHAMPAIGN

August 30, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

299

Arrangement of Plants.— The articles
which appear at intervals in Gardening from
“ J. D.” and others have one good effect upon
a great number of readers. They awaken a
healthy habit of thinking for oneself. Some
years ago it seemed as if gardening as an art
was settled, as a huge machine made for the
almost sole purpose of grinding out acres of
scarlet Pelargoniums or blue Lobelia. It is
true the flower lover never feels his inmost self
quite satisfied with the result; but the powers
of fashion and the instinct of imitation are so
strong in our frail natures, that it seemed
almost a revelation w’hen anyone boldly stood out
to champion poor old Dame Nature. It is not
to be supposed, nor do I think it would be
desirable, that any quantity of disputation
should make a code of ethics on one side or the
other. This would give a remedy as bad as the
disease. The most that can be expected from
the present exodus of opinion is that we shall
be able to divide ourselves into two camps—one
with a banner inscribed, “Gardeners from the
head the other, “Gardeners from the heart.”
Directly a man feels that he is not sacrilegious
in leaving the beaten path, he begins to love
flowers for their own sake, and then if the true

r rdening instinct is inside him, he cherishes—
was almost going to say, gloats over—his
treasures, and sees nothing but glare and ennui
in his gorgeous coloured beds, so artificially
dragged on to his lawn, or flung in the most im¬
possible places. It is easy to discover the
cause which has produced the effect so many
now condemn. The average professional gar¬
dener, by a process of evolution, finds out that
his | average employer, be he an item or the
great public, is satisfied if he can take a look at
his garden at intervals more or less distant,
and be slightly electrified by a coup d'oeil.
There can be no blame attached, therefore, if
he—the gardener—sets himself to work to be¬
come, as I said before, a machine, and even
now I cannot see that any better arrangement
of flowers than the bedding-out system can be
adopted for public parks or large institutions,
where it would be useless to hope for even a
small percentage of those who love a flower
for its merit alone. Before I came to live
here, I had spent the whole of my time in
London or some other large town, and my
knowledge of gardening and horticulture was
not appalling either in extent or depth, being
confined chiefly to the study of a half-a-crown
Marshal Niel Rose, with a sprig of Maidenhair
Fern, in Covent Garden. Still, when I came
into the country I tried year after year to ex¬
tract, as I was duty bound, the phantom plea¬
sure out of my duly shaped beds, but the result
was always Dead Sea iruit—I felt there was
something I had not grasped. Now I have
diligently obliterated these beds, and, lo ! I find
in my garden nooks and corners filled with my
dearest friends, and everywhere I turn I am met
by children I have planted and reared and fed,
until my neighbours wonder however they can
always come, winter and summer, and be sure to
have something to gather or look at in the shape
of colour and natural beauty. My advice to all
who have tried only the set pattern fashion of
growing just the orthodox bedding plants is to
try tile natural style, and I shall be very dis¬
appointed and surprised if they do not, like
myself, speedily cease to be mere gardeners, but
ardent lovers of flowers.—J. S. J.

Lobelia fulgens Victoria. —Although an
old plant, we have few half-hardy subjects so
effective as this is from the middle of August
to the end of September. With us it is now
nearly at its best, and we have nothing so bril¬
liant in colour which gives go little trouble. We
take up our plants at the end of October, place
them on the floor of an unheated Peach
house, and plant them again in April. I believe
that damp is more hurtful to this plant than
actual cold.—J. C. C.

Seedling Petunias.— As a common seed¬
ling Petunia in my garden has for some time
been the admiration of all my visitors, I think
a word on the subject may be useful to those
who usually throw away their Petunias after
the first summer. In the spring of 1883 I
sowed a penny packet of mixed single Petunia
seed. After the summer’s bloom a few plants
were lifted, wintered in a cold greenhouse, and
afforded magnificent heads of flowers for nearly
the whole of April Lad . gkij^jUants,

however, were left in the border through the
winter, and one of these, spreading fan-like
over the surface of a south-west wall, emboldens
me to write. It is not easy to describe a
beautiful plant in full flower ; but I may men¬
tion that this Petunia began to bloom early in
June. The blossoms then were strikingly
variegated from nearly pure white to deep
magenta ; stripes of both colours, alternating in
various breadths, left hardly two blooms alike,
but all were of large size and of dazzling
brightness. The effect may be better imagined
from the fact that in the middle of June, by
desire of a visitor, I counted eighty-nine fully ex¬
panded blossoms on the plant at once. It has
borne its white and “violent crown” ever
since, and still continues in undimmed beauty.
While this is being written (Aug. 12) there are
eighty-five expanded flowers on it, only that
whereas two months ago the white predominated
the whole plant now appears vested in “the regal
purple,” and that but sparely splashed with
“ the fine linen.”—J. S. D.

The Twin Flower (Linnaea borealis).—
In many a northern Pine wood this modest
little evergreen trailing plant is just now dis¬
playing its delicately-tinted blossoms ; no
wonder that such a lovely plant is such a
favourite with all who love flowers, for it
spreads and forms a dense cushion-like tuft,
which becomes thickly studded with tiny pink

Spray of the Twin Flower (Linnsea borealis).

bells. It is a rare native and not at all a
common plant in gardens, though it is not so
difficult to cultivate as many imagine ; like the
Edelweiss, another reputedly difficult plant, it
flourishes like a weed if placed under the neces¬
sary cultural conditions. All that is needed is
to plant healthy young plants in a moist sandy
border, rock garden, or slightly raised bank.
Placed in such a position ana in partial shade,
we have rarely found it difficult to deal with,
always presuming, of course, that the air is
pure. The best season for transplanting strong
plants of the Twin Flower is autumn, and care
should be taken to secure a good amount of
earth lifted with the roots.

Seedling 1 Veronicas. — I send you some
seedlings of Veronicas, wishing to have your
opinion as to whether any of them are worth
preserving. They seed like weeds in my garden,
all my named sorts being grubbed up when
they get 8 or 9 feet high, as then they only bear
foliage and flowers at the top with bare stems
as thick as a man’s ancle. I have none but
seedlings now. I am convinced they vary quite
as much as Fuchsias or scarlet Geraniums do, and
that sorts worth naming could easily be raised.
I have taken no trouble about them. I am quite
sure I have hybrids between Andersoni and
imperialis and between Andersoni and salicifolia.
Some of my best are not in flower, but I will send
them, if you desire it, later on. Some are more
dwarf than others. 1 had one with flowers of a
white tube and purplish plum-coloured tips,
but I have lost it; it had brownish green leaves;

they keep on flowering till the middle of
January. I think Veronicas are one of the beat
shrubs for a shrubbery. I had a bouquet of
Veronicas and Escallonia montividiensis (the
white Escallonia) on my dinner table on Christ¬
mas Day, a friend of mine from Nottingham
would not believe it till he saw them in flower.
—South Devon. —[The blooms sent were very
fine, and the colours rich and varied. These
Veronicas are amongst the best of shrubbery
plants for southern counties, and also for cool
conservatories in winter.—E d.1

Propagating herbaceous plants.—
Most herbaceous plants are propagated in
spring, which is, perhaps, the best time, when
they have to be increased by division, as, being
then starting into growth, they may be cut
through, or dug up and pulled apart, and
multiplied to almost any extent. There are
some, however, that do not admit of such treat¬
ment, among w’hich may be mentioned the
Alstrcemerias, the tuberous roots of which go
down into the ground to such a depth that they
cannot be reached without digging up the plants
bodily, and disturbing the whole soil about them
to search and pick out the parts that will grow.
Instead of doing this, the best way is to save or
procure seeds, which they bear freely, as almost
every flower left sets, and the pods fill and ripen
long before winter begins. The seed may eitner
be sown now or left till the turn of the year,
when it is a good plan to sow and raise the plants
in small pots, as then they can be transferred to
the bed or border where it is intended to grow
them without suffering a check. If the seed is

ut in now or later on out of doors it should be

one where the plants are to stand, so as to
avoid transplanting or any interference after
they are up, of which Alstramierias are very
impatient. Pentsteinons are best struck from
cuttings, which should be put in now in pots
and placed in a close frame, where, if shaded and
kept moist by syringing, they will soon root,
and may be wintered in any cold house or pit
protected from hard frost. Antirrhinums
require just the same treatment if named or
choice sorts are to be saved, as, like Pentstemons,
they often get killed during hard winters, or
become so crippled that they rarely break
strongly or do well the following spring. Pansies
and Violas may be divided and increased in that
way, or cuttings may be made and dibbled in
under hand-lights, or in any frame where they
can be kept close for a time, as they root very
easily.—S.

Propagating- Eoheverias.— During the
summer many of these will have produced a
number of offsets, and if separated from the
parent plant at taking-up time, and dibbled in
shallow boxes of soil, they will make good plants
for bedding out in spring. During the winter
they will require scarcely any water. Eche-
veria seed should be sown by Christmas, other¬
wise the young plants will be too small for use
the following season. Sow in well-drained pans
of sandy soil, just covering the seed with sand,
and place them in a temperaturo of about 60
degs.—T.

Celsia cretica is a good autumnal flower
for mixed borders. It withstands heavy rains
and gales of wind that bring many more showy
flowers to an abrupt termination. During the
heat of summer 1 thought but little of this
Celsia ; our soil being dry, it seemed to do little
else than form seed-pods, and I considered it to
be an over-praised plant, but lately it has re¬
deemed its character by sending up a continuous
succession of spikes of golden blooms that defy
all weathers. It is a plant of easy culture, and
one which grows luxuriantly in any fairly good
soil. Seedlings of it raised under glass in spring,
and planted out as soon as large enough,
develop into fine clumps, and flower freely as
long as outdoor flowers are procurable.—J. G.

11869.—Herbaceous plants after flowering.—
While the stems and leaves are green they ought to bo
allowed to remain, removing the decayed flowers and stems
only. As soon as the stems and leaves decay cut them
over at the base. The same remarks apply to bulbous
plants. If seeds are not wanted remove tne seed pods os
soon as they are formed. As long as the leaves remain
green they aid in maturing the bulbs.—J. D. E.

11861.— Dividing plants.—Lychnis, Phloxes, and
Potentillas may be divided and replanted as soon os they
have done flowering. Lily bf the Valley docs not require
any special treatment. It will grow in almost any good
garden soil. A sand bed in not; a good place for It to grow
in, and no wonder if it does not nower.—J. D. E.

1JRBANA-CHAMPAIGN

300

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 30, 1884.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 290 .)

The Amateur’s Vinery.

The culture of Grapes under glass is not a very
old business, for at the beginning of the present
century Forsyth, the Royal gardener of the
period, speaks of open-air Grapes being sent to
the Royal table. Anything which gives an
improved climate increases the value of the crop
of Grapes. I have seen good Grapes grown in a
turf pit with nothing but glass lights laid across
the banks. When it was fine every other light
was tilted up during the day, being closed again
at night. Though good Grapes have been grown
in very unlikely-looking places, still it is well,
when one has any choice in the matter, to have
a light, well-constructed, properly-ventilated
structure. Light and abundant means of venti¬
lation must be insisted on. Except for an
early crop a span-roofed house is a desirable
form, because it affords plenty of light, and a
a good length of rafter to train the vine rods to.

The vines may either be all planted on one
side and trained over, or they may be run over
alternately from each side. I am thinking of
an inexpensive kind of vinery I came across
some years ago that was built by the amateur
himself, and was entirely managed by himself,
and produced Grapes of a superior quality.
There was not a brick used in its construction.
The wall plates were laid on the tops of Larch
poles, which could be had cheaply m the neigh¬
bourhood. These were firmly fixed in the
ground 4 feet apart on each side. The space
between the wall plates and the ground was
boarded up, openings being left about 4 feet
apart near the ground line for ventilation.
There was an opening all along the ridge for
ventilation also, which was protected by a
movable cap that worked with a lever. There
was no upright glass on the sides, but the ends,
except 3 feet at the bottom, were glass; and the
roof had rather a steep pitch, for the purpose of
getting rid of the water quickly. The vines
were trained to wire fixea 18 inches from the
glass. The lights were made at home by a car¬
penter at so much per foot—about 4d., I
think—and were glazed by the owner himself;
and altogether the house was very cheaply and
well built. This happened fifteen years ago.
Probably if the same work was going
to be done now a different system would
be followed. The painting and repairing
is always a heavy item. And in building
vineries for amateurs nowadays, some plan
should be adopted which will do away with
painting, and, as far as possible, make an im¬
perishable structure. I was speaking to a
market grower the other day, and he says he
finds it cheaper never to paint. He builds of
the best material he can get, and when the
wood decays he takes out the glass and rebuilds
with the money saved by not painting. Of
course the dilapidated appearance the place has
when wearing out, and no paint used, would be
distressing to a sensitive mind, but he says he
cannot afford to be sensitive. I have no doubt, in
the near future, horticultural buildings will be
erected of imperishable materials. Much im¬
provement, extending in this direction, has
already been effected, and the work will doubt¬
less go on.

The Ground Vinery.

This was invented by the late Mr. Rivers, and
was for a time very popular. It was simply a
long narrow span-roofed frame, just wide
enough and high enough to train one vine along
under the ridge. I dare say it met a felt want,
but it has been superseded now by a loftier,
wider frame, called, in technical phrase, the
“Three-quarter span frame.” This, if placed
on turf banks with a sunk path down the
centre, will make a very nice little
vinery, or it may be used for Peaches,
Figs, or Plums, Apricots, and Cherries.
If it did not exceed 20 feet or 25 feet in length
the trees might be planted at one end and be
trained along the house instead of across in the
usual way. If it was desired it would be a
simple matter to heat one of these cheap frame
greenhouse vineries, either by running a flue
along one side or by a small boiler. If only 20
or 30 feet long the flue would be the cheapest
and best. Nine-inch earthenware pipes make
a very good flue for this purpose, cheaper and
better than bricks. JMPgo^ Graces blight be

f rown in this class of structure without artificial
eat. Probably better Grapes would be grown
in an

Unheated Vinery

Than if heated, unless great care was used.
My experience among amateurs has taught
me that they are exceedingly lavish in
the matter of heat, often lighting a fire
when the plants would have been better with¬
out ; and I know that good Black Hamburg and
Sweetwater, and Muscadine Grapes can be grown
without artificial heat. But the sun’s warmth
must be utilised to the utmost. By this I mean
that the house must be closed early in the after¬
noon, and be damped, to fill it full of genial
vapour. Shutting up early in the afternoon in
sunny weather tends to help everything on
marvellously. If the syringe is used the heat
enclosed in the house by early closing must be
strong enough to dry the foliage before darkness
sets in, for if damp remain on the leaves all night
the green tissues will decay, and these organs,
which are situated there, will not be able to
perform their allotted work. I may say, also,
that early opening is as important as early closing.
As soon as the sun strikes on the house in the
morning with any force, so as to cause a vapour
inside, the ventilators should be opened a
little to let the vapour escape, to be replaced
with sweet, fresh, wholesome air. This is
very important, for a damp, stagnant atmo¬
sphere is a precursor to most of the evils
which can be traced to faulty internal
management. A little chink of air early
in the morning, say by six o’clock, or if a
little ventilation can be given low down, close
to the ground line, on the southern side of the
house last thing at night, the roof vantilators
need not be opened quite so early in the morn¬
ing. When a house containing vines is shut up
till eight o’clock in the morning in spring or
summer-time something must go wrong. Of
course, the best built house is not air-tight,
but modern houses are less exposed and less in¬
fluenced by external changes than old-fashioned
houses were years ago. The details of vine
culture are the same under all conditions and
circumstances. The stopping, tying, thinning,
watering, &c., are the same it the vine is grow¬
ing in a structure with turf walls as if the very
latest improvements were adopted. The person
who brings his intelligence to bear upon all he
does will not long be bound down altogether by
cut and dried rules. Promptitude in everything
is of the very first importance. If the young
vine shoots are allowed to ramble on with
their tendrils clinging to everything until
they become a perfect thicket, the amount
of green which will have to be cut away
will represent the wasted effort, which, if the
stopping had been done earlier, would have
been used up in a profitable manner. So it is
with the watering and the use of stimulants—
act generously, and promptly meet the need as
it arises. If the border is well drained in the
season of active growth there will be no danger
of overdoing it in the matter of watering.

Vines in Pots.

This is an interesting way of growing Grapes ;
not only do they bear well in small pots, com¬
paratively speaking, but when ripe the plants
can be moved, and used in any system of room
or table decoration if desired. If the vines are
raised at home there must be a light position
near the glass to place them whilst making and
maturing their growth. If the requisite con¬
ditions as to light and warmth are present, and
if the cultural attention is right, there should
be no difficulty in growing the canes one year
and fruiting them the next. Ripe Grapes have
frequently been cut from vines in pots from
sixteen to eighteen months old from the eyes.
To do this there must be no hitch in the work
from the time the eyes are put in, in January or
February, till the Grapes are ripe the following
April or May. The eyes may either be started
in sods of turf or in single pots, in a
brisk temperature of from 60 degs. to 65
degs. at night ; and all advantage possible
must be taken of the sun’s warmth by
closing early in the afternoon. As soon as
root action is fairly vigorous, and the
young canes are moving rapidly upwards, they
must be placed on a shelf where the young rods
can be trained to wires within a foot or so of
the glass. A shelf at the back of a lean-to
house will do very well, training the rods down¬
wards. Firm, short-jointed canes are better for

forcing than thicker wood, if less firmly built, by
being less exposed to light. In all forcing (and
the preparatory work is clearly a part of it) light
in abundance is absolutely necessary. The
young canes should be stopped when they have
reached the full fruiting length, which may be
6 feet. The laterals should be pinched back regu¬
larly to one leaf in order that none of the plant’s
energy may be wasted ; and as soon as the
growth has ceased, and the requisite impulse
given to maturation, the plants should be moved
to a warm south wall in the open air, and be
tacked up to it to finish the consolidation.
When the leaves fall do what little pruning is
required, and start forcing in November if the
Grapes are required early. Some cultivators
prefer to force the vines without repotting, on
the assumption that to repot tends to dis¬
organise ; but this need not be feared, as I have
often repotted vines before forcing began,
and I have shifted them into large pots
or boxes, when the Grapes were set, with
pretty much the same result. I have also
plunged the pots, without repotting, into large
pots, filling in the space with turf and manure.
Another plan, and a good one, is to enclose
the pots with wire netting, filling in with com¬
post, into which the roots soon work. What¬
ever plan is adopted the object is the same, viz.,
to supply the plants with just the food they
require— i.c. t to place it within their reach, and
the roots will soon find it. Twelve-inch pots are
a good size for fruiting pot vines. They may
be turned out into troughs or boxes at the
beginning of the forcing season, if this plan is
more convenient, instead of repotting or en¬
closing them in wire netting, or trying by any
other plan to supply thjs food they need. It is
best to raise young plants every year, although,
if not too heavily cropped, and they are
supported by artificial stimulants, a second crop
may be taken the following year, or a selection
may be made from the healthiest and strongest.

Diseases and Insects.

Of the former, perhaps, shanking and spotting
are the most common and disagreeable. Up to
a certain period in their growth the Grapes may
look healthy and flourishing, then suspicious
discolouration of the stalks of the berries
are visible, which gradually assume a darker
tint, the berries become limp and cease to
swell, their colour becoming a dingy red. I
suppose everybody who has had a vinery knows
what this shanking is. Speaking generally, it is
caused by a want of support at a critical period
of the growth of the Grapes, at the commence¬
ment of the last swelling, and when a large de¬
mand is being made upon the energies of the
plant. Whatever may have led up to it, de¬
ficient root action is the primary cause. If the
drainage is out of order, if the border has
become sour and pasty from heavy manurings,
if the roots have descended too far down so as
to be drawing their supplies of moisture from
a colder strata, if, in short, there is any dis¬
organisation of the roots which prevent them
keeping up the supply of nutriment to the
bunches of Grapes at all times, but especially
during the early ripening period, shanking
ensues. Often irregularities in cultural details
may weaken the forces of the plants and lead to
shanking. Permitting the lateral growth to
extend beyond due limits, and then cutting all
back at once, by the severe check it gives, has
been known to induce shanking, or rather to
lead up to that condition of health which pre¬
cedes it. On the other hand, very close and
severe pinching, by its dwarfing tendency, has
the same effect. Drought will produce shanking,
though it is not difficult to distinguish between
the shanking caused by drought and that pro¬
duced by a wet, sour border. Shanking and
spotting are sometimes ascribed to unripe wood,
but then unripe wood very often proceeds from
deficient root action; and root-lifting in both
cases is the proper remedy, and when brought
back near the surface everything should be done
to keep them there. On no account should any¬
thing be planted in a vine border, whatever
space the border may occupy. And in the
majority of cases if the roots were more thought
of the borders need not be so wide. It is very
rare to find these wide borders so well furnished
with roots as they might be. Fill the border
full of roots, and feed them well to keep them
there. In dry weather rich top-dressing and
liquid manure, with artificial stimulants in

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

August 30, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

301

moderation, will be the means of keeping the
roots in health, and enabling them to perform
the work they are required to do.

Scalding causes injury to some kinds of
Grapes. Muscats and Lady Downes suffer from
it about the time the berries begin to ripen.
Just as the Grapes begin to colour, the sides of
the berries cave in, as if a severe blow had
been struck. Very often this is caused by defi¬
cient ventilation early in the morning, or at
least this may contribute to it. If the foliage
is scanty through severe stopping, the condi¬
tions are favourable for its spreading ; and a
shade should be used on the glass and an exten¬
sion of the lateral growth permitted. These
measures if taken in time will check it; but
often the real cause is deeper seated, and must
be sought for among the roots.

Cracking of the berries can hardly be called
4 disease, yet it is a great disfigurement,
and, at the same time, a great loss. Like
scalding, it shows itself just as the Grapes are
beginning to ripen. The berries of the Madres-
field Court Muscat sometimes crack a good
deal. Too much moisture following a dry time
may cause the skins of the berries to burst by
the sudden pressure brought to bear upon the
contracted cuticle. The difficulty may often
be overcome by giving the vines more work to
do, leaving a heavier crop, and allowing a
larger development of leafage. Another way
of checking cracking is to cut a notch in the
branches below the bunch to check the flow of
sap upwards.

with sufficient clay to give it the con¬
sistency of paint, rubbing it well into
all the cracks and crevices. Gas tar,
mixed with clay in the same manner, has been
highly recommended by men whose position
entitles them to be heard with respect and con¬
fidence, and though I have never tried it I
should have no hesitation in doing so if I were
looking for a remedy for bug on vines. But,
whatever is used as a dressing, constant watch¬
fulness is necessary all the next spring and
summer, for some of the eggs will hatch off and
produce lively, perfect insects. When the sun
is warm in spring, the bugs, if any are left, will
travel along the rods, and a keen eye will easily
discover and destroy them. For want of this
close attention and care in spring, when their
numbers are few, the opportunity for utterly
destroying them passes away. Thrips and green¬
fly are occasionally found in vineries ; but thev
are easily kept under by fumigating with
Tobacco.

The Phylloxera has not done all the mischief
in English vineries it was feared might come
from its introduction to this country. It has
been found comparatively easy to stamp it out;
in fact, no one need have it unless they like.
But if it should be introduced the best plan
would be to destroy the vines in the house, clear
out the border, and start afresh with all things
clean and new. But unless vines are obtained
in a promiscuous manner from unknown people
and places, the Phylloxera need not be introduced
at all. E. Hobday.

Mildew.

The spores of various kinds of fungi are
probably in a resting state, continually floating
about in the atmosphere, and when the right
conditions for their propagation and growth are
met with, they instantly germinate. This being
so, as regards mildew on vines it can only
obtain a footing where some mistake has been
made in the management of the interior of the
house, and is generally caused by deficient ven¬
tilation accompanied by too much moisture. A
stuffy, stagnant condition of the atmosphere
furnishes a proper home for mildew ; and
if, at the same time, the roots are in a sluggish
condition, a mildew will grow rapidly, and it
will be exceedingly difficult to eradicate it.
The usual remedy for mildew in all its
forms is sulphur. Sometimes the fumes
arising from it when painted on the hot
pipes will be sufficient. When this fails it
should be dusted on the affected parts, and
allowed to remain till the fungi is destroyed.
The cause also must be ascertained and removed.
In the winter dressing immediately following, a
good deal of sulphur may be used in the wash¬
ing of the house and the vines to kill any
dormant spores at the moment growth takes
place, not to wftit till the effect of their growth
is seen on the Grapes before applying the
remedy.

The Insect Pests.

Of all vine pests the red spider is per¬
haps the most troublesome. This is almost
sure to appear in the early houses unless the
atmosphere is in a very even condition as to
moisture. Let the house be kept a little too
dry, and the red spider soon appears ; and if its
presence is not noticed at once a lodgment is
soon effected, from which it is difficult to drive
it before much mischief has been done.
Sulphur painted on the pipes, and shutting up
early with a saturated, sulphur-impregnated
atmosphere, are the best remedies. Never
forget in dealing with mildew and red spider a
stitch in time saves more than nine.

Mealy Bug on Vines.

When thevineries are kept solely for the vines,
there is not much trouble with the mealy bug.
Now every house has to accommodate plants
in winter and spring, if at no other time, it is
difficult to keep this pest out of the vineries.
The only effectual cure is to thoroughly stamp
it out, and for the future keep it out by banish¬
ing all stove plants from the house. The house,
as soon as the leaves fall and the vines are
pruned, must be thoroughly cleaned, all wood¬
work painted, and all walls limewashed. The
vines must have all loose bark removed, and be
well scrubbed with a brush, and a strong solu¬
tion of so ft soap and water, and then be painted
with a strong insecticide. . T In the cases in which
I have had to deal I ^ve used CHslmrst Com¬
pound, 8 dk to the |gdl»V_Ii vmM Vjnixed

TREES AND SHRUBa

LILAC CHARLES X.

Now that preparations for forcing flowering
plants for winter are being made, we would
remind those who do not know this beautiful

Flower cluster of Lilac Charles X., pure white when forced.

Lilac that it is the very best that can be had
for that purpose on account of the large size
of its flower trusses, and the pure whiteness of
the blossoms when forced. It is, moreover, a
very free flowerer, a flower truss being produced
on every terminal growth. This Lilac may be
had in bloom at Christmas, and by placing
batches of it in heat at intervals, flowering
specimens of it may be obtained in continuous
succession until it flowers in the open air in
May, when it is also among the finest-coloured
varieties. Owing to the facility with which the
flowers of this variety may be blanched, their
large size, and sweet perfume, there is a great
demand for it, and it is consequently imported
in large quantities from the Continent, but
there is no reason why home-grown plants
should not be equally good for the purpose.

Grafted Lilacs.— A great objection to these
is the number of suckers which they continually
produce ; therefore, if possible, strike them

from cuttings. Young shoots put in about mid¬
summer root readily in close frames, but do not
grow any more till the following spring.
Hibiscus syriacus does well grafted on pieces
of its own roots. On a sunny "wall Weigel a
seed ripens thoroughly, from which young
plants can be raised in great numbers. Rhus

f labra laciniata, and, indeed, most of the other
inds, can be easily increased by means of root
cuttings.—T.

Variegated Ivy on rockwork.— The
small-leaved variegated Ivies show to great
advantage when rambling amongst rockwork or
root work, especially in cool, shady situations, as
the moist atmosphere generally prevailing there
appears to bring out the variegation to a greater
extent than when the foliage is exposed to hot
sun and drying winds. For bordering a fernery
I know of nothing better than these Ivies in
summer ; their bright foliage forms a charming
contrast to the rich verdure of the Ferns, and
in winter when these have lost their beauty
there is always something pretty and cheerful
to look at. By the way, has anyone tried these
small-leaved, variegated Ivies as a carpet for
Ferns ? They would, I think, look very nice
pegged down on the soil, as, unlike the green
kinds, they do not exhaust it, at any rate not
to any great extent.—J.

HOUSE & WINDOW GARDENING.

SHRUBS FOR WINDOW BOXES.

The season is now approaching when summer
flowers in window boxes must be replaced by
something of a hardier character, and where
window gardening is carried out the whole year
round, either in pots or boxes, shrubs of an
evergreen character play an important part
during the winter and spring months. A brief
list, therefore, of some of the most reliable may
be acceptable to those who have not had oppor¬
tunities of testing their respective merits, for it
is not all kinds of even those whose growth is
suitable that submit to the ordeal of lifting and
replanting without showing any ill effects tnere-
from. Those that have a mass of fibrous roots
are the only ones that will answer the purpose,
and they must have in addition short, sturdy
growth, feathered to the ground with healthy
Foliage. Happily, most shrubs of an evergreen
character are in full feather, so to speak, in
winter, as if to compensate somewhat for the
bare look of such as are deciduous. Amongst
the following sorts are many that have varie¬
gated or mottled foliage, but plain green-leaved
sorts are the prettiest.

Aucubas of all kinds are most useful, their
foliage being good, and they withstand dust
and smoke better than most plants. If the
precaution is taken when they are in bloom to
artificially fertilise them, or even to plant the
male Aucuba amongst the others, they will pro¬
duce a crop of berries and be very ornamental.
They should be placed under glass at this season
to get their berries well coloured. Box of different
sorts forms pretty, neat-crowing shrubs, and
being exceptionally hardy, is suitable for
exposed positions where tender ones fail.
Cupressns Lawsoniana and its varieties are also
very pretty, especially when young, being very
graceful in habit of growth. Cryptomeria
elegans, another handsome Conifer, is also
beautiful in a young state, forming dense
bushes, consisting of delicate growths, that
rival Ferns in appearance, and which in winter
assume a deep Bronze tint that enhances their
usefulness. Euonymus japonicus, and the many
beautiful variegated varieties of it, are a host
in themselves, being dwarf, bushy, and having
an abundance of fibrous roots, the dark green
shining leaves of E. japonicus looking extremely
well along with the golden and silver variegated
kinds, so that boxes filled wholly with Euony-
muses look extremely well; and in seaside

S laces, where the range of varieties that really
ourish is limited, the Euonymus comes in for
a very extensive amount of patronage. It not
only lives in the salt-laden breeze, but puts on
that glossy look which denotes luxuriant health.

Golden Tree Ivy and the silver variegated
variety called Elegantissima make very pretty
shrubs for window decoration. Some of the
St. John’s Worts, too, are very pretty, and do
well in shady places. Hollies, in a young state,
form pyramidal little bushes that make excel¬
lent central obiects in boxes or vases. Berberis

JR R A n A-rHAMPAG N

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[AtfotrST 30, 1884.

30 1

Aquifolium, too, is very pretty in a young state,
having shining spring foliage of a deep bronze
colour. In spring it also produces large bunches
of yellow flowers. Periwinkle, both plain and
variegated, forms valuable edgings, being of a
graceful habit of growth. Retinosporas, having
beautiful Fern-like foliage, are very suitable for
window boxes. R. squarrosa, R. ericoides, R.
obtusa aurea, and R. plumosa are amongst the
beat of this beautiful family. Small bushes of
the common Rhododendrons are well adapted
for winter gardening in boxes or pots ; they
form quite a mass of fibrous roots, and move
well at any time. Skimmia japonica is one of
the beet of dwarf berry-bearing plants, bearing
a profusion of brilliant berries that colour early
in the season. The New Zealand Veronicas
are also very pretty shrubby plants, producing
purple or blue flowers during the winter
months ; but, even without flowers, they are
well worthy of culture. Yuccas, too, are very
effective plants in the shape of single specimens
in vases, pots, or boxes, Y. recurva being espe¬
cially graceful and useful for that purpose,
while Y. gloriosa and Y. fiiamentosa form
pleasing additions to any collection in which
they may be placed. J. Groom.

FRUIT.

to be pleasant to the palate. Gathering of the
same variety at varying intervals has not the
same effect—that is, successional ripening, as is
the case with Pears, and, therefore, when ready
to gather all of the same sort are harvested at
once. I have noted that Apples will keep best
in a much lower temperature than Pears. So
long as there is no actual frost in the store
the fruit is safe and long keeping a certainty, so
that in fruit rooms in which Apples and Pears
are stored together the former should have the
coolest positions. G.

Louise Bonne of Jersey Pear.— No
Pear is much better known than this ; neither
are there many to surpass it. For October use
it is invaluable. With us the earliest supplies,
in order to prolong the season, are ripened in
heat, and the remainder gathered and stored in
the fruit room at weekly intervals. The tree is
decidedly good in habit, no difficulty being ex¬
perienced in forming a pyramid of it in the open
or an espalier on walls, and it is equally well
adapted for standards and cordons. The
foliage is, as a rule, of a darker green than
that of most varieties, and the fruit is also
very distinct and handsome. It seldom fails
to bear well in whatever form it may be grown,
and we have abundance of its fruit this season.
—I.

GATHERING APPLES AND PEARS.

Pears. —Perhaps there is no fruit on which
the quality so much depends on the right time
of harvesting as Pears,, for if gathered too soon
they shrivel, and, if eatable at all, they are more
or less insipid, whilst if left on the trees till they
are eatable, particularly the early varieties, they
are mealy and flavourless—at least such has been
my experience, and even now, after years of
practice, we sometimes fail to hit on the right
time to gather some of the kinds ; hence the
suggestions I have to offer as to when to gather
must not be taken as infallible, but simply as
the best I have yet learned. To begin with
the earliest and second early varieties, the
former under any circumstances are always more
or less mealy ; obviously, therefore, the time of
gathering cannot make them firm and buttery
in flesh, but they are always best if gathered
about a fortnight before being fit for tame, and
the best criterion as to when they have attained
that degree of maturity is to gently lift up the
fruits, and, if they part readily from the tree,
then they should be gathered and be placed in a
cool, airy room. The. same rule is equally ap¬
plicable to the second early varieties, with this
addition, that if a portion of the fruits of the
same tree be gathered at intervals of a few days
or a week, the season when they are fit for use
will be greatly extended ; this is particularly
the case with respect to Williams’ Bon Chretien,
Beurr6 d’Amanlis, Brown Beurr6, Seckle, and
Marie Louise. I have also noted it to be the
case with some few of the later varieties,
Winter Nelis, for instance ; we gather a few of
this kind ; others are gathered in a week, and
others are left on the trees as long as it is safe
to leave them, and so we have ripe fruit of this
kind from November to February. Other late
kinds, that by following the same rule may have
their season of use lengthened, are Josephine de
Malines, Beurr6 Bose, Delices de Hardenpont,
Passe Colmar, and Beurre Diel. With respect
to gathering very late kinds, the best rule to
follow is to disregard every symptom of
maturity, such as black pips, pecking by birds,
and even ready parting from the tree when
moved by the hand, and only gather them as
soon as they begin to drop from the tree
naturally ; there will then oe few, if any,
shrivelled fruit, and at the season of ripening
the quality may be expected to be all that can
be wished. I need scarcely add that all kinds
should be handled with the greatest care, and
if space can be afforded for laying them singly on
the fruit shelves, not only will they be more
readily inspected to remove decayed fruit, but
the percentage of such will be more reduced
than if they were laid in double file.

Apples.— These, as in the case of late Pears,
are left till they begin to fall from the trees
naturally, and, in fact, we make this our rule
with all kinds except sorts that ripen in July
aud August. These we gather as soon as there (
is the faintest sign of colouring, and they may
then be used before tl^ey gqt>iinc**ly--fif fgo soft

qitli

11883.— Moving fruit trees.— Trees that
have been planted five years should be prepared
for removal by digging a trench round the bole
at, say, 3 or 4 feet from it. In doing this a
large proportion of the main roots will be cut
through—in fact, all the lateral growing roots
should be cut through, and some fresh compost
ought to be put into the trench. This opera¬
tion will cause a mass of fibrous roots to form
during the next growing season. When the
leaves fall the following autumn, the trees may
be removed safely.—J. D. E.

11868.— Raspberries failing.— We are
very successful with the culture of Raspberries,
and plant them 3 feet apart in deeply-trenched
and well-manured soil, six canes are left to each
stool, and all but those six are cut out during
the growing period. The canes will frequently
branch out when they are very strong. This
will not prevent them bearing good fruit. This
being such a dry season, it has not been a good
one for Raspberries, which like moisture.
Probably the drought caused the fruit to be
small, and not worth gathering. It could not
have been thinning out the shoots.—J. D. E.

11877.—Peaches from seed.— Peaches and Necta¬
rines will bear fruit as seedlings without grafting. I have
fruited a great many of them in pots three rears after the

{ >lants havo appeared above ground. I used to fruit them
n 9-inch and 10-inch pots. Pot culture is by far the best
system to prove seedlings.—J. D. E.

11879.— Pruning Gooseberry trees.— If the bushes
are pruned now the sap will not run out it is rather a
strange idea to suppose it would. It is just as well to leave
the pruning until the leaves drop in the autumn. There
is no reason why it could not be done at once If it is more
convenient to do so.—J. D. E.

11876.—Vines In pots.— Good turfy loam to which has
been added a fourth part of decayed stable manure and a
9-inch pot full of crushod bones to each barrow-load of
compost. Vines grown permanently in pots should be re¬
potted once in two years, and the surface dressed twice
while making their growth.—J. D. E.

ROSES.

AUTUMNAL ROSES.

To mv mind the first and late blooms of Roses
are the loveliest. The first, because they are
the harbingers of better things. How eagerly
do we watch the first buds in spring, and how
many are the guesses we make as to which will
be the first to open. It often, however, happens
that those which we think most likely to open
first disappoint us, some later growths out¬
stripping these earlier formed buds. For some
years I have made notes respecting the first and
last Roses of the season; and on referring to
these notes I find that in 1878 the first bloom
was cut here on May 12, it being Xavier Olibo;
the following day we gathered a bloom of
Francis Lacharme, while by the 20th of the
same month we could cut a beautiful lot, con¬
sisting of upwards of twenty varieties. By the
end oi the month the cut-backs and standard
maidens were all in full blossom, and by the
middle or second week in June the dwarf
maidens were comng in fast, so that by the end
of the month in question our Roses were in their

best form. In order to show the variability of
our seasons I may mention that in 1881 our first
bloom was not gathered until June 29, a differ¬
ence of forty-eight days between this year and
the year of 1878. The Rose gathered on this
occasion was again Francois Lacharme, a beauti¬
ful compact Rose of medium growth. So quickly
did others follow, that by the second week of
July they were in splendid form on all cut-backs,
while the maidens in this year were not in full
bloom until the first week in August. Coming
to 1883, our first bloom was cut on June 10,
being a new Rose sent out by us some twelve
months ago, named R. C. Sutton.

Amidst the hurry and bustle of the exhibiting
season the Rose grower for sale has but little
time to notice the different characteristics and
qualities of Roses, while later on, with leisure,
after the budding season is over, he can walk
amongst the plants and watch minutely the
second and richer bloom. The dewy moms and
lengthened nights add to the beauty of many
kinds which m hot summer days are passed
over. The greater stars have in part disappeared,
and the lesser lights now light up our rosery.
Our summer and special bloom is indeed de
lightful, and perhaps to the trade more remu -
nerative than the later bloom, but each has its
charm. The summer blooms of Souvenir de la
Malmaison have now changed from that flat¬
tened form to flowers much deeper and more
globular and richer in tint. Annie Wood, whose
characteristics in the earlier season are not of
the most pleasant to the exhibitor, is now so
bright, so rich, and full, that she is not unequal
to any of the brighter Roses, and now may be
classed with such kinds as Marie Baumann,
Alfred Colomb, Louis Van Houtte, or A. K. Wil¬
liams. Certainly of this Rose it may be said that
its autumnal form quite eclipses that of summer.
The too-often-condemned PaulNeyronis now, on
the cut-backs, in form and delicacy of colour, all
that could be desired, and not inferior to that
earlier Rose of the same shade, Fran<;oise
Michelon. Duke of Edinburgh, one of the best
of our English productions, is never so rich and
pleasing as now. Dupuy Jamain and its twin
sister, Auguste Rigotard, under the cooler days
and heavy nights of autumn, display such ful¬
ness of petal as one does not see in the same
Roses in the earlier summer. There are others,
too, of the Hybrid Perpetual class over which
one might linger, and some which remain con¬
stant and good throughout the whole blooming
season. Among these may be noted A. K.
Williams, Marie Baumann, Alfred Colomb,
Duchess of Bedford, Charles Darwin, Senateur
Vaisse, Ferdinand de Lease pa, Baroness Roths¬
child, La France, Louis Van Houtte, and that
grand new pink Rose, Pride of Waltham. My
notes as to autumnal Roses, however, would not
be complete if I dwelt only on the Hybrid Per¬
petual class. There is that beautiful class,

The Tea Roses, ever lovely and sweet, but
never so profuse in blooming, never so rich and
sweet in perfume as now. This class especially
seems to put forth its full vigour and beauty in
autumn, and will not cease until cut off by
autumn frosts. Madame Berard, Madame
Lambard, Catherine Mermet, and Belle Lyon-
naise are the most prominent of those that
bloom better in the autumn than in summer,
and we must not forget that grand old Rose,
Gloire de Dijon. To those, then, who want
Roses from June until November there are
ample, and a careful selection will reward all
lovers of our greatest national flower, the Rose.

_ W. H. F.

11865.— Rose Celeste. —If “ Norwood,” who enquires
where Rose Celeste can be purchased, will send me his
address I shall be very glad to give him some cuttings.—
E. F. C.—Olen Tanar, Aboffne, N.S.

Slugs aud snails.— The correspondence
which has been going on for some time in your
valuable journal has very much amused me. I
have a method of dealing with slugs or snails
which is infallible. In the spring, just before
the marauders begin operations, I buy half-a-
dozen young ducks and turn them into the
garden. No slug or snail ever damages or
devours a plant or a seedling, the sharp-eyed,
hungry ducklings take care of that; and then
don’t we all, in due course, enjoy our ducks and
green peas ! In other words, when the ducks
begin to grow up, and be too big for the garden,
and so damage it, we eat them.— Blossom-free.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

jsw m

August 30, 1884,]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

303

GUNNERSBURY PARK, ACTON.
Gunnersbury is one of the few great London
gardens which the all-destroying and all dis-
tiguring smoke has left to us as yet almost un-
soiled. At Fulham Palace the other day we
saw sad evidences of the effects of this on the
trees—once so fine—there, and, one by one, our
London gardens are losing, through the smoke-
plague, that brightness and freshness charac¬
teristic of gardens in pleasant places. Let us
hope that this great drawback to our big city
may one dav be overcome, and that fair gardens
nay again be possible, even in its centre ; but,
ilas ! at present each year we can only report
t vaster area of pleasant suburban country
foiled by smoke. Even where no harm is done
t> the deciduous vegetation, and where the
lose may yet bloom, the effect of smut on all
evergreens, even before it begins to kill them,
is most depressing, and nullifies the best efforts
ol the planter. There is always a freshness
abut Gunnersbury which make one unmind-
fu of its close proximity to the great city, the

coping, from which stretches down to a piece
of ornamental water a fine open lawn. This
broad expanse of well-kept Grass is decidedly
one of the most beautiful features of the place,
and its effect is much enhanced by the groups
of gigantic Elms and Cedars which flank it on
either side, some of the elms being about 120
feet high. Through these tree groups can be
Been from the house the principal flower garden
display, consisting of irregular groups of what
are called basket beds, oval in shape, with
raised trellises or handles covered with Roses,
Clematises, and similar climbers.

One of the most picturesque parts of the
ground lies on the western side of the house,
where there is a fine ornamental lake, con¬
structed at great expense in consequence of the
sloping character of the ground. Being some¬
what elevated and open, a fine view is obtained
from this point across the park to the Surrey
Hills. It is in this part of the grounds that
the best views exist. Here are some of the
stately Cedars throwing their huge arms across
the roof of an ornamental Tuscan temple, with

coniferous and other trees, and interspersed
with these here and there are circular beds,
which in summer are gay with tender plants,
and in winter and spring are filled with hardy
plantB of dwarf growth, notably with Sedums
and Saxifrages, which have withstood un¬
harmed some very severe frosts. Every¬
where, indeed, in summer, some of the finest of
hardy flowers may be met with, and in early
spring the pleasure grounds and woodland walks
are charmingly interesting.

From the lawn adjoining the lake a path
about a quarter of a mile in length leads to
what are called the Potomac grounds. This
walk is highly interesting. Leaving the lawn,
where, by the way, are some remarkably fine
examplesof the hardy Palm (Cham terops ex celsa),
an Apple orchard is passed, which in spring is
a beautiful sight, though unusual in pleasure
grounds ; here fruit trees are introduced with
fine effect on the lawns, and in one part there is
a fine group with Roses trained to their stems.
We now' pass through a narrow* belt of timber
trees, w'hich forms a screen separating the more

LAW'N VIEW IN THE GARDEN AT GUNNERSBURY PARK, ACTON.

emoke of which, that relentless despoiler of
gardens, being less felt there than one would
suppose. This comparative immunity from
London smoke and fogs is doubtless mainly at¬
tributable to its high-lying position. We are
fond of lawns unmarred by set patterns of
flower-beds, and here we have one to our liking.
It abounds in examples of good design, and the
ground, particularly about the house, show the
work of a masterly hand as regards both surface
arrangement and planting.

Everywhere here one is impressed with that
idea of repose and quietude so often aimed at in
garden design, yet so seldom attained ; but of
course the magnificent tree growth at Gunners¬
bury contributes in a great measure to produce
these results. The Cedar of Lebanon and the
Elm have acquired a growth Buch as is rarely
•eon, and at every turn their huge boles and
towering heads w*ear an expression of grandeur.
The carriage drive, though short, sweeps grace-
fully beneath these noble trees, while to the
Uft on entering is a broad lawn fringed with
trees, amongst w’hich is a magnificent Cedar,
remarkable for its symmetrical and noble out-
fine. On the garden side of the mansion is a
broad gravelled terra/e "bordered JbyTa atone

Digitized \jOOaK

the vertical lines of which their horizontal
boughs beautifully harmonise. Cedars abound
in this part of the grounds ; all of them are of
huge dimensions, and their age may be counted
by centuries. The Elms, too, seem to be quite
200year8 old, but, being the indigenous species,
they probably existed even before the place
was formed. Some of the branches of these
Elms as well as of the Cedars are in themselves
as large as ordinary tree trunks. Under the
Bhade of these heavy boughs is a rich under¬
growth of Ivy, from 1 foot to 18 inches high,
and so green and robust as to be quite delightful.
This Ivy carpeting beneath trees is also carried
out in other parts of the grounds, and certainly
the system is a good one, and ought to be more
practised than it is in places in which Grasses
fail to grow. Behind the temple is an old-
fashioned Italian garden, with beds laid out
geometrically and edged with Box 1 foot or
more in height. This in summer, when filled
with gay flowers, possesses a singularly fine
effect. Surrounding this garden are several fine
examples of the large-flowered Magnolia (M.
grandiflora), the broad shining foliage of which
is handsome even in winter. On the lawn, im¬
mediately beyond the lake, are fine examples of

select part of the park, which is planted with
coniferous and other trees, from the more open
part on the right. To render the isolated speci¬
mens on the lawn more attractive, Clematises
and other climbers have been planted at their
base, so as to overrun them in the manner re¬
presented in our Bketch, and when wreathed in
summer with gay flowers their effect is very
satisfactory. Flanking the walk on either side
may be seen colonies of spring flowers and other
hardy plants. At the extremity of the belt
just alluded to are the recently-formed Potomac
grounds, which are of considerable extent—the
creation, we believe, of the late Baron Roths¬
child, who did so much to improve this estate.
Formerly this portion of the grounds was an
uncultivated waste, with little else upon it but
a few trees and a pond, once a clay-pit for
bricks ; now the brick kiln iB converted into an
ornamental tower of grey stone, octagonal in
shape, and surmounted with battlements, and
the pond has been extended into a broad ex¬
panse of ornamental water, whose islets and
rocky margins render it highly picturesque.
The surroundings of the lake are diversified by
knolU and undulations, all effected by artificial
means, and a circuitous path renders all sides of

URBAN A-CHAMPAIGN

304

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 30, 1884.

it accessible. In one part are some fine old
Willows, with their oddly contorted stems and
branches dipping in the water, but other por¬
tions would be much improved by a growth of
waterside plants or shrubs, as they have a bare
and shaven appearance. At the upper side of
the lake, near the tower, an artificial rocky
stream adds greatly to the charms of the place,
the rocky head of the inlet being particularly
effective. Around the lake, at a little distance
from the water’s edge, have been introduced
bold clumps of Pampas Grass, Bamboos,
Arundos, and other moisture-loving plants, with
good effect. Where the public road flanks this
part the boundary is raised and planted in an
effective manner with shrubberies and planta¬
tions, though it will he some years before the
intended effect will be attained. Near the
grounds here alluded to the late baron trans¬
planted some huge trees from another part of the
park in order to produce an immediate effect
in the more bare portions, and the result has on
the whole been satisfactory.

The glass department of the garden will
compare favourably with any similar establish¬
ment with which we are acquainted. Fruit
culture and plant culture are alike carried out
well, and one department is not, as is too often
the case, neglected in order that perfection may
be obtained in another. The glasshouses are
compactly grouped in a comparatively small
area, a circumstance which renders the heating
arrangements more convenient. All the houses
are well planned and constructed, the chief
range of vineries being especially remarkable,
and are said to be among the finest in the
country.

There is an excellent Rose house which is
well stocked with all the leading kinds, the
roof being occupied chiefly by Tea-scented kinds,
all of which are found extremely useful for
supplying cut flowers in winter and early spring.
The surface of the centre bed is made attractive
by greenhouse Ferns and other fine-foliaged
plants placed on a slightly raised rockery,
while tne back wall is covered with green¬
house climbers; and overhanging the walls of
the beds is the elegant growth of Rhynchos-
permum jasminoides, a capital plant for such a
purpose. j

The plant houses include a fine old conserva¬
tory, a building 60 feet in length, with bold
circular front windows, embellished with large
Chinese vases, and also contains a large collec¬
tion of Orange trees, Tree Ferns, and other noble
leaved plants.

The walled-in garden enclosing the principal
ranges of glass-houses is exclusively devoted to
hardy fruits, bush fruits being placed in the
open quarters, and pyramid and espalier Pear
and Apple trees near the walks, while a long
wall with an easterly aspect is occupied by
young Pear trees recently planted on a system
which is considered to be an excellent one.

The trees are planted some 2 feet apart, and
it is intended that the principal stems should be
trained vertically till they reach the top of the
wall, which is from 12 feet to 14 feet in height,
then their lateral branches will be trained with
their points bent downwards, a plan by which
the wall will be entirely covered in a short
time.

A kitchen garden, comprising over ten or
twelve acres of open space, with an excellent
soil for vegetable growing, lies some distance
from the house beyond the park.

Sunflowers.— It has been my hobby to
collect and grow several varieties of the Heli-
anthus family, and amongst them H. multi-
iloru8 fl.-pl. It is in reference to this plant
that I wish to say a few words. As everyone
is aware, the blooms of this plant are invari¬
ably double. But what appears to me as a sin¬
gular exception is that I have a healthy plant
producing both double and single blossoms.
The single flowers are perfect and fine, being
4 inches across. Amongst a hundred flowers I
counted twenty single blooms. These latter 1
found on examining the crown to belong to
two strong stems \vhich produced only single
flowers. I should much like to know if anyone
has met with a similar occurrence. A word of
advice as to how I should manage the propaga¬
tion, whether by cuttings, divisions of the root,

or perchance seed, will, be gladly
—WqK B., £aft J\£tcsaf\

lly rpcer*

gTe

ceived by

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

As soon as the stock of Belladonna and
Guernsey Lilies can be obtained, they should at
once be potted and lightly watered, placing them
in an intermediate temperature, in order to
bring up the flower-spikes as quickly as possible.
The earliest batch of Azalea amcena, A. Cald-
welli, A. Borsig, A. Pauline Mardner, A.
narcissiflora, and A. indica alba, that have set
their buds and are fast swelling them, should
be housed to prevent them from receiving any
check during sudden changes of weather. It
will now be advisable to get all the hard-
wooded plants cleaned and put in order ready
for removal into the houses should a sudden
change in the weather occur. If this be done
the plants will be ready for removal as soon as
the autumn rains commence. A few of the
earliest Bouvardias that are set with bloom
should be introduced into an intermediate
temperature and a genial atmosphere. Feed
them liberally with liquid manure at the
root to keep them in flowering condition as
long as possible. The various structures
intended for the forcing and storage of plants
during winter should now receive a thorough
cleansing to clear the glass and free the wood¬
work from filth of all kinds.

Cinerarias and Primulas.— Attend well
to these, as their pots will now be getting full
of roots, in which case any deficiency in the
way of w r ater will so far injure them as to cause
the loss of their lower leaves, and when this
happens, however well flowered they may be,
they lose half their beauty. Let the plants be
looked over every ten days in order to see that
aphides do not get a lodgment on them, or a
like loss of leaves will be the result. If the
plants be fumigated to destroy aphides it should
be done lightly, or the foliage will be liable to
get injured. The safest course is to watch
closely, and immediately a plant is affected with
either aphides or thrips to dip in Tobacco-
water, a supply of which, ready for use, should
always be at hand in every garden, large or
small, especially during summer, when these
insects come to life so (prickly. Primulas
intended for flowering in spring should now be
shifted into their blooming pots, which should
be 6-inch ones ; pots of this size, with the aid
of manure water, will be found large enough
for fast-growing soft-wooded plants. Primulas
like a compost consisting of good fresh loam,
with one-sixth leaf-mould, and a little sand.
Press the soil firmly in the pots, letting it come
well up to the base of the under leaves, so as
to keep the plants secure in their places with¬
out rocking about, as they do when not potted
low enough.

Petunias. — Cuttings of double Petunias
should now be put in for flowering next spring
and summer, after which the old plants, when
done blooming, may be thrown away, as young
ones are in all respects better, and occupy less
room.

Nierembergias. —These are very suitable to
edge vases for summer decoration, where their
drooping habit and profusion of flowers are seen
to advantage. They are particularly adapted
for use in window boxes or for room plants.
Cuttings should at once be got in, selecting the
softest shoots that have not a disposition to
bloom. Put in the points of these 1 inch apart
in 5-inch pots in sandy peat surfaced with £ inch
of sand ; water them immediately and cover
with a bell-glass, putting them in a warm house
or frame. When they are struck they should
be placed singly in small pots for the winter
and kept near the glass. If they can be accom¬
modated with a temperature of 45 degs. in the
night, it will keep them growing.

Flower Garden.

The mixed or herbaceous border should now
have careful attention, as Phloxes, Pentstemons,
and many other late autumnal flowers will now
be in full beauty, and should not be in any
degree marred or disfigured by being associated
with the decaying flowers and foliage of other
occupants of the border, nor should such plants
be by any means cut down prematurely, or in
an unripened condition; but at the same time
all dead and decaying matter may be removed
with advantage to them as w r cll as to the general
appearance of the garden. As regards annual
plants, they should be at once removed as soon

as their beauty is over, unless in cases where
seed may be required, and this should be care¬
fully picked as it becomes ripe.

Beds or clumps of double-flowered Zinnias
are now in fine condition, and are most valuable
as autumnal flowering plants, and possess the
power of resisting drought to a very considerable
extent, especially if a deep, rich, and well-
manured soil has been selected for them, and
such encouragement they well deserve. The*
should be sown under glass, about the end a
March or early in April, and should be plantel
out about the end of May. They may le
planted tolerably close together, say aboit
6 inches or 8 inches apart, and all inferior soits
should be extracted from the bed or clump as
soon as they show flower ; the space they occu¬
pied will soon be taken possession of by the re¬
maining plants. Go carefully over the b«ds
now and select a few of the very finest and most
distinct blooms as seed-bearers, and mark tlem
by securing to them pieces of coloured wonted
or other material, and pick them as soon as
they are ripe. By this means the strain will bo
continually improved, while the reverse will be
the case if the seeds are gathered indiscrimi¬
nately.

Let Chrysanthemums, German and other
Asters, as well as all other late-flowering plants,
be carefully stacked to prevent them being blown
down or injured by high winds. Order, or get
in readiness, the various bulbs which will soon
be required for furnishing the flower beds for
spring. The cutting of such plants as the Ver¬
bena, Petunia, Coleus, and Alternanthera,
which may have been struck in close frames or
pits, will now, in most instances, be well rooted,
and the store pots or pans containing them
should be placed on coal ashes in the open air,
fully exposed to the sun for some time, or as
long as it can be done with safety; this will
have the effect of rendering them robust and
hardy, and it is of the greatest importance to
have them in this condition before the approach
of winter. Care must be taken not to expose
them too long.

Climbing plants, such as Tropjnolums, used
for screens, will now be very gay, but all such
rapid-growing plants need constant attention in
the way of regulating their growths, or they
become matted together and break down with
the first storm. Training of all kinds should be
done early or as the plants progress in growth,
when they quickly outgrow all appearances of
formality. Clematises have lately been very-
gay ; we find them to look best in the shape of
masses of colour peeping out from the abundant
foliage of Wistarias, Magnolias, &c., and by
mixing deciduous and evergreen climbers to¬
gether, one gets a succession of bloom, and the
bare look of walls, &c., so objectionable in
winter, where only deciduous subjects are em¬
ployed, is thus avoided.

Amongst hardy plants Sedum spectabile is
now making a grand display ; it grows freely in
any soil or situation, but comes brightest
coloured in a hot dry position where little else
will grow. It is a good plant for rockeries or
rootwork, and it makes a fine centre for small
succulent beds. Now is a good time to increase
all kinds of succulent plants ; many make good
plants from single leaves if taken off with the
bud at the base. Echeveria metallica may be
readily increased by cutting the flowering
shoots into lengths as cuttings, and inserting
them in boxes like Pelargoniums ; they quickly
develop roots, and during the following season
form several crowns on each stem, which, if
taken off and potted, make good plants for
edgings.

Continue to push forward the propagation of
all kinds of bedding plants for next year’s dis¬
play. All kinds of nearly hardy plants that
merely require the protection of a cold pit
should be got in early, so as to be well rooted
before winter. Santolina incana, a beautiful
silver-grey-foliaged plant, is exquisite for lines
or divisions. Calceolarias of the yellow and
dark bedding kinds we generally leave until
about the last, as, unlike many other plants
that are wintered in cold frames, they are liable
to get overgrown if put in too soon. We find
the first week in October a good time for putting
in our main supply of these. Flower beds will
now require frequently looking over, as, in
addition to taking off cuttings, decaying blooms
should be regularly removed, and superabundant
growths kept within bounds.

URBANA-CHAMPAiGN

Adoust . 30 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

305

Window plants.

Trop.rolums, Balsams, and Asters are now
very pretty in windows, as are also some plants
of Tagetes and African Marigolds. Give plenty
of water to plants of Creeping Jenny, and

S ermit the shoots of the Virginian Creeper to
roop in graceful festoons. Introduce a few
Cockscombs, yellow Calceolarias, Grasses, and
any other miscellaneous plants obtainable.
Indeed, a very pretty ornamentation in the
window is the Japanese Maize grown in pots.
Mesembryanthemums, too, are very useful for
a dry position, and Gazania splendens for a
sunny one. The various small-leaved Ivies,
too, should not be forgotten ; they are useful
for suspended baskets, screens, or for spreading
over balconies, and they grow and thrive under
even adverse circumstances. Ferns and Selagi-
nellas are also, as everybody knows, excellent
for windows, especially those facing the north
or east; and for windows facing the brightest
Bunshine, Acacia lophantha, and other kinds of
Acacia, some sorts of Asparagus, Convolvulus
mauritanicus, Grasses, and other plants of that
sort are suitable.

Roses.

Roses, especially perpetual sorts, will now be
flowering freely ; it is not, however, always
safe to trust wholly to these for the autumn
display, as kinds not classed as Perpetuals are
often really more entitled to that distinction
than those that are catalogued as such. Some
of the Bourbons and Noisettes are far more
floriferous, and open in bettor form and colour
in the autumn than in June, more especially
such kinds as Souvenir de la Malmaison,
Triomphe de Rennes, Celine Forestier, &c. ;
these are always exquisite at this time of the
year. Where these are planted in quantity it
is a good plan to plant a few bulbs of scarlet
Gladioli amongst them, as they succeed well
together, and the brilliant spikes of the Gladioli
contrast well with the light-coloured Roses. If
planted as dwarfs on their own roots, peg down
the strongest annual roots for next year’s dis¬
play, cut out any decayed wood, and keep the
beds clean and trim; any shoots that are not
required for next year’s flowering may be cut
off and made into cuttings, which, if inserted
in a shady border and kept moist, should make
good plants for potting in twelve months’ time.

Fruit.

V inks. —Every favourable opportunity must
be taken advantage of to push on very late.
Grapes this month. Late Grapes are better
flavoured when thoroughly ripe by the end of
September than later, and they are not so liable
to damp throughout the winter when in this
state as when only partially ripe. Gros Colmar
is in many instances a bad kind to colour, but
it often eats well when tinted with green. No
anxiety need be felt about the colouring of the
Black Alicantej it will do under all circum
stances. The surface of the border under
Grapes ripe for autumn should now be kept
very dry, to prevent damping amongst the
fruit; and do not rake or stir the loose-surface
soil, or a great deal of dust will rise to rest on
and disfigure the berries. Keep the ventilators
of all vineries in which the fruit is all cut wide
open night and day, so that the fruit may
become ripe as soon as possible. Do not give
young vines planted this season so much water
as they required in the earlier stages of their
growth.

Wasps. —The plague of wasps with which we
are visited at this season tasks all our ingenuity
to contrive ways and means for their destruction
in order to save the fruit. The taking of their
nests is, of course, the most effective means of
riddance, but some of them are very difficult to
take, or at least to get at, and others to find,
and traps must therefore be brought into play.
A very excellent trap, by which we catch
thousands in a day, is made by placing two
hand-lights together, the one resting on the
other, at the apex of the bottom light; smash a
bit of the glass; through this opening the
wasps make their way, and have no idea of
getting back, but by going still higher, and of
this the upper lid of the hand-light does not
allow, being in good repair, and so they perish.
Elevate the trap by a brick at each corner of
the hand-light, and bait with any kind of refuse
fruit or sugar. Net utfchoifeV^uitf Vlth^fine

n^choi^yvu :^!^ 13

hexagon netting ; the wasps are so ravenous
that they face all kinds of other netting, though
put on three or four ply thick. For destroying
their nests an effective and expeditious plan is
to pour coal-tar into them and stop up the
holes.

Gathering fruit. —Gather early kinds of
Apples and Pears as soon as the first signs of
maturity are visible, and directly the fruit is off
any trees which are growing too robustly, and
which need a check to consolidate growth,
may be subjected to partial root-pruning ; this
we do by digging out a trench a reasonable dis¬
tance from the bole, according to the size of
tree, and severing with a sharp knife a few of
the thickest roots, especially the perpendicular
ones. If necessary, as is sometimes the case,
the other portion of the tree can be done another
year. As a rule, we find that when root-prun¬
ing is done effectively the second or third year
after the trees are first planted, the fruitful
state thereby superinduced is sufficient to keep
growth in check, thus rendering any further
root disturbance unnecessary. Early autumn,
as soon as the fruit has been gathered, is the
best season for the operation to be put in
practice in the case of all kinds of hardy
fruits.

Planting. —The planting season is at hand,
and note should therefore be made of all re¬
newals required ; lists should be consulted and
varieties decided on, and the trees should be
selected from the nurseries whilst the foliage is
still on them, that one may the better judge as
to their healthiness. Apricots and Peaches
suffer more from autumn droughts than from
any other cause, for to this, in a large measure,
is attributable the falling of the buds when they
should be unfolding. Keep any late growths
that the trees may now make persistently
stopped back, and let all the shoots that are to
be retained be laid in to the wall at once.

Vegetables.

All Potatoes of whatever kind ought now to
be lifted. Winter Greens and Broccoli planted
between the rows of Potatoes will now require
earthing up. Regarding the utility of this
practice, there can be no doubt that it is highly
beneficial, both as a support against wind and
as favouring the production of a large amount of
Btem rootlets, which are of the greatest service
to the plant. Continue to plant all ground as it
becomes vacant either with Coleworts, Cabbages,
or sprouting Broccoli. If not yet sown in suffi¬
cient quantity, seeds of the following vegetables
should be got in at once, viz. : Chirk Castle,
Black Stone Turnips, Barth Cos and Hardy
Hammersmith Lettuces, Early French Horn
Carrots, Turnip-rooted Radishes, and Winter
Spinach. Thin out former sowings as early as
the seedlings can be handled, and keep the
surface soil about them open by hoeing when¬
ever the ground is sufficiently dry to admit of
that being done.

August-sown Cauliflower plants ought not to
be left in the seed bed to become drawn or
weakly; a good sturdy plant that will winter
well can only be ensured by pricking out early.
If the ground be ready for them, those that are
intended for wintering under the protection of
hand-lights may be planted in that position at
once, and the lights can be put over them at any
time before there is danger of injury from frost.
Box edgings should be clipped, also hedges,
and all decaying vegetable refuse should be
removed to the manure heap.

Unless where a deficiency of winter vegetables
has been put in, and there are good strong plants
at hand of Kale or Coleworts, it is not advisable
to plant more of the ground that becomes vacant
after this, as the time intervening before the
growing season is over is not sufficient to admit
of these late-planted crops attaining a useful size,
and they seriously interfere with the preparation
of the ground for another year without making
any adequate return. Let all haulm of Peas,
French and Broad Beans, or Lettuces that have
run to seed, or anything of a similar description,
as soon as they have ceased to bear or to be of
further use on the ground, be at once removed.
It is a mistake to allow anything of this kind to
remain, for so long as any growth continues it is
so much extracted from the soil to no purpose.
They should, therefore, be conveyed to the refuse
heap as soon as possible. Let all ground be
well hoed as often as weeds make their appear¬
ance.

INDOOR PLANTS.

NewZealand Speedwells (Veronicas).
—These attain on the south coast the dimen¬
sions of large shrubs, and are very useful for
supplying cut flowers in autumn, but they may
be turned to good account as pot plants lor in¬
door decoration in autumn and winter ; for this
purpose young plants, propagated from cuttings
the preceding autumn, and planted out in spring,
like Chrysanthemums, make very fine bushy
little plants covered with flowering shoots.
They should be lifted in September, potted in
just sufficiently large pots to hold the roots,
and kept shaded and moist until established.
Under the shade of vines will suit them well
until they begin to grow freely, when they may
be transferred to a cool, airy house, and will
flower freely in the temperature of a conserva¬
tory.—J.

Correas. —These pretty winter flowering
shrubs make effective greenhouse plants even in
a small state, and their propagation is not a
difficult matter. Mako cuttings of the young
shoots when half ripened. As a rule four leaves
will be enough to leave on the cutting, so in
removing it from the plant cut immediately
below the third pair, then cut off these two
bottom leaves, and the cutting will be ready for
insertion. Choose medium or weak shoots for
cuttings rather than strong ones, which are far
more liable to decay. If to be placed in a small
frame within the propagating house, 4-inch pots
will be a convenient size, but if bell-glasses are
to be used of course the pots must be chosen to
suit the size of the glasses. Fill the pots to
within 1^ inches or 2 inches of the rim with
broken crocks, the upper layer being crushed
finely to prevent the soil from being washed
down through the interstices. When this is
done fill them to just below the rim with soil
consisting of peat and sand sifted fine and

{ iressed down firmly, then finish off with a thin
ayer of pure sand. Give each pot a watering
through a fine hose, and let them stand an hour
or two before using them. Then insert the
cuttings as quickly as possible without over¬
crowding, bearing in mind that cuttings which
touch the sides of the pots generally root before
those in the middle. When small pots are used
this can be carried out, but where bell-glasses
are employed the cuttings must not be brought
near enough to the edge to interfere -with the
removal or replacing of the glasses. Put the
cuttings in firmly, and when each pot is finished
give a thorough watering to set every cutting in
its place. The most suitable temperature is one
a few degrees higher than that in which the
plants from which the cuttings have been taken
have been grown—say that of an intermediate
house, as if too great a change takes place in
this respect the cuttings often speedily decay,
while a few degrees higher than they are
accustomed to will hasten their rooting.—F.

Lilium auratum after blooming.—
When the time arrives to repot the bulbs of
this Lily late in autumn, cultivators often find
on turning them out of the pots that there is
nothing left to pot; stem and bulb alike are a
mass of rottenness. Pot after pot of what were
handsome examples of this fine Lily a few
months previously have to be replaced with
fresh bulbs. Under careful culture there are
sure to be a few losses in this way, but not
wholesale destruction. The mistake is turning
the plants out of doors exposed alternately to
heavy rains and Btrong sunshine. The hot sun¬
shine, acting upon the pots, kills many of the
roots, while excessive wet following kills both
roots and bulbs. The best way of treating the
bulbs is not to turn them out of doors at all, but
to place them close together in a greenhouse
where they get plenty of light and air, but are
shaded from the greatest heat of the sun.—J.

11849.— Position for greenhouse.— To
grow greenhouse plants well the house should
be exposed to the sun all day. It is not a good
position for a greenhouse when it i9 shaded
after noon by tall trees. They would not only
prevent the plants from getting enough light,
but they would also prevent the air from cir¬
culating freely. Camellias and Lapagerias
would do well in such a house. Ferns would
succeed [admirably, and if a heated pit could
be available to bring plants up to the flowering
stage, they would lest all tho longer in a
partially shaded show-house. =—*J. I). E.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

see

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 30, 1884.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11774.—Moles in gardens.— In previous
years I have been much troubled with moles.
Several I trapped, but a few “cunning ” ones
made their escape at the side or under the traps.
Failing to catch these, I placed in their runs, as
near coming into the garden could trace, a little
deal sawdust, sprinkled with paraffin and tar.
From that time—about nine months—not a mole
has put in an appearance, although busy in the
field adjoining.—C. J.

11861.— Trees for avenue.— It might have
been better to have mentioned the length of the
proposed avenue. We may hope it is for level
ground, as the effect of an avenue is greatly
spoiled by its going up and down hill. If not
of great length I would suggest Turkey Oak as
a fast-growing and handsome tree, or Spanish
Chestnut or Walnut, but of whatever kind of
tree formed, let it be remembered that each tree
should be trained from its youth to form
single stem, with side branches propel
shortened, and double leaders cut off clean
close to the stem. The effect of an avenue is
greatly improved, when the trees grow up, if
these matters are attended to when the trees
are young, so that the height of the Gothic arch
should be as great as possible. We may often
see that, although the trees are of great height,
the arch is quite low down, and so the great
effect is entirely lost. But if the avenue is to
be on a great scale the idea of an arch is out of
the question. Still, no one would object to
well-grown trees any distance apart.—T. S.

11855.—Solanum jasminoldes from seed —
With reference to above question, Solanum jasminoides
never fruits-that is the experience of a nurseryman here,
who has grown it for many years—but it is easily propa¬
gated from cuttings. Your correspondent “ Vara ” could
obtain young plants from any nurseryman who grows
them largely.— J. Watson.

Feather-eating Fowls (.4. J. B.).— See the note in pre

sent issue headed “Fowls with sore necks.”- Weed on

Lawn (IF. Bridges).—U you will send us a specimen of the

weed in question we shall be able to advise you.- Wkrds

in Oardrn (Springfield). —There is, we fear, no other
remedy but that of eradicating the weeds by hoes, taking
especial care that the weeds do not flower or seed.

Names Of plants.— D. G.—‘ Tremandra verticillata.

- H. S. F.— Common Toadflax (Linaria vulgaris). It will

grow anywhere in garden soil; sow the seeds as soon as

ripe.-ir. H.—l, Aspidistra lurida variegata ; 2, Ceano-

thus azureus; 3, Alonsoa incisa ; 4, Francos ramosa.-

A. Boyle.— Salpiglossis sinuata.-IF. A.—I, Agapanthus

umbeilatus ; 2, Phlebodium aureum ; 8, Francos ramosa
4, Coreua flagellaris. We name but four plants each time.

- W. Turner.—1, Clematis Flammula ; 2, Scabiosa

atropurpurea.-IF. G. (Saltleystead).—Bomarea oli-

gantha.- J. Evans. —Poplar leaved Stonecrop ; Sedum

populifolium.— T. IF.—1, Sedum Aizoon; 2, Linaria

stricta; 3, Tradescantia repens.- Mrs. L. (Brackenhurst).

—Caper Spurge ; Euphbrbia Lathyris.-//. M. M. —

Astragalus glyciphyllus (Milk Vetch).- Adelaide.— Tw-o

varieties of Coleus. These require to begrow-nina light
(unshaded) greenhouse, and may be easily propagated by

cuttings inserted at any time up till winter.- T. Wood-

house.—Bladder Senna; Colutea arborescens.- F. W.—

Geranium Wallichianum (native of Nepal); Polygonum

molle.- G. Z .—a is a kind of Spurge, probably Euphorbia

coralloides; b. Species of Cla3 T tonia.- Miss Denison.—

Appears to be a species of Prunus. Please send when in
flower, and preserve a leafy twig until the spring to send

with the flower.- Oroxden. —Staphylea trifoliata.-

IF. H. Wilkinson.— Kennedya rubicunda.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.— All communications
for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required , in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the ouery
answered. When more than one qtiery is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again
Naming 1 plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when pood
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name varieties
of florist# flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas ,
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist who
has the means of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or dowers sent to name should always
accompany the parcel.

11899.—Cucumbers gumming 1 .—I am growing
some Cucumbers in a greenhouse, but almost all the fruit
are gummy. There are about 30 plants, all of which are
diseased. Is there a cure for it?—C. J. K.

11900.— Peat.— What is the effect of Peat (as far as re¬
gards moisture) on the roots of plants and shrubs? Does
it retain more moisture about the roots than ordinary soil,
or does it tend to dryness of the roots?— Sicnare.

11901.— Packing Grapes.—Can anjfr readers inform
me the best mode otrpacking^ hothoj
travel by rail wiriioutfcnjurihg Jl e Im

11902.— Carnations, PIcotees, and Pinks.—Will
any reader tell me how to distinguish Carnations from
Picotees and Pinks?—W. T.

11903 .—Rhododendron seed —Will some reader
kindly inform me where I can procure seed of Rhodo¬
dendrons. Azaleas, and Camellias l— R. W. L.

11904. — Cucumbers rotting? off. — I have a
Cucumber plant that 1 am growing this year. I planted it in
the spring in good time. It is the Duke of Edinburgh sort.

I dug the earth 2 feet and filled up w-ith well-mixed horse
manure. After an interval of three or four days, when
the frame was ready, I put in the plant, which grew well,
healthy and strong, soon throwing out plenty of fruit. I
pruned the plant and have still plenty of bottom heat, but
the fruit rots off at the end where the flower w-as. I have
tried without water and with water. I have tried keeping
the frame closed, keeping the frame open and letting in
plenty of air, always closing in the evening.—J. C.

11905.— Plants failing?.—I have a greenhouse, some
*0 feet from floor to ridge of roof, 5 yards wide, and 10
vards long, a broader one three sides for Roses, Sic., and
have a very thick awning of Passiflora, some 15 feet from
floor, over the whole house, except some 3 feet from the

S lass, so as to allow the Roses to pass up near the glass.

[off, in such a high place, with this thick aw-ning, and this
on the south wall of a very high residence, I find it im¬
possible to keep free of mildew. The Roses are Bimply use¬
less after the first bloom in spring, and do what I will |1
find I am compelled to strip the leaves off, as I have four
shelves one above another for pot plants, level with the
Roses, or rather under, so you see I cannot syringe, and
the foliage of nearly everything get covered with mildew
just os they get to the blooming stage I am wondering
if you know of anyone clever enough to recommend a
remedy. You will readily see under these conditions every¬
thing gets very much drawn, with much ventilation, and
Chrysanthemums simply spoil some three weeks after being
brought in on hard floor with the awning 15 feet above
them.— Much Perplexed.

11906. — Plants for a shaded greenhouse. —
Having a small greenhouse 12 feet by 8 feet, heated with
26 feet of 4-inch hot-water pipes, I should be greatly
obliged if any correspondent will tell me if Stephanotis,
Eucnaris, Gardenias, and Bouvardias would succeed with
me? Tho greenhouse is between a wall running from
north-east to south-west, and the house a distance of 13
feet ; it only gets the sun from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., and only
south-west winds. I keep up a heat of 75 degs. to 90
degs. in summer, and 60 degs. to 76 degs. in winter.
Palms and Maiden hair Ferns (stove and greenhouse) get
on well.—A. E. W., Derby.

11907. — Leafless Azaleas. — Can you tell me any
wav by which I can increase the foliage of my Azaleas ?
Most of them are a mass of blossom, but have not many
leaves, and the foliage would much improve them ; but it
does not come on till after the blossoms, instead of with
them.— Uncas.

11908.—Colour in Camellias.— Can any reader tell
me w hat causes Camellia blossoms to be some years pale
coloured and in others darker ? I had a dark red Camellia
last year, the blossoms of which are streaked with white
this year instead of being dark red as they were last year.
—Uncas.

11909. -Clematises dying?. —I see that “R. D. W.’
enquires os to the cause of Clematises dying, I should be
most grateful to anyone who can suggest any cure. In the
spring of 1883 I planted 14 Clematises in different positions,
some on walls, and some on chains, and some in a bed; out
of the 14 only 3 or 4 were alive this spring. Two of these
were strong plants. 6 or 7 feet high, one has bloomed ; now
they have both died and shrivelled suddenly. I thought
at one time that slugs ate the stems of the Clematis, but I
cannot discover that the stems of these two plants are in
any way injured, and they were quite strong and woody,
not green or tempting to slugs. The weather is very hot
and dry, that one hardly expects to be troubled with slugs.

I do not think that tho fault can be in the soil (which is
rod Bandstone), as we have magnificent plants of Star of
India, Lady Caroline Nevill, Madame Grange, and Otto
Frmbel, planted 8 or 10 years ago, while of the numbers of
Clematis I have planted in the last 4 or 5 years, (some on
the same walls as the old plants) hardly 2 or 3 are alive.

I have now some nice plants of Clematis in pots I purchased
this spring, and I was keeping them to plant next .year,
hoping by that time the stems would be woody enough to
resist the slugs ; but as the last Clematis killed w-ere more
than a year planted and had strong stems, I fear that pre¬
caution is not enough, and I begin to think that slugs are
not the true cause.—A. M.

11910.—Asphalt© carriage drives.—I would like
to receive instructions as to the making of asphalte carriage
drive, the materials required, and how to use them, and
the cost per square yard?—W. Jupp.

11911. —Preserving French Beans. —Can any
reader tell me how to preserve French Beans for winter
use?-E. D.

11912.—Wintering cuttings.—I have a large, high,
spare room facing south-w-est. Can I use it for storing cut¬
tings, etc., during the winter, and w-hat artificial heat
will be required, there being no fireplace in the room ?—
Springfield.

Teas. I can put them in a window facing either east or
west. What is the treatment for tho Moss Roses during
the autumn and winter, and when to prune ? The Teas are
Marshal Niel.Gloire de Dijon, and a few Hybrid Perpetuate.
North Londoner.

11913.— Potatoes growing second time. - Can
anyone tell me why Potatoes make a second growth before
they are ripe ?—Beginner.

11914.—Pumpkins turning yellow.— Will some
one give me a reason whv Pumpkins turn yellow os soon
as they begin to swell? After the first one has formed 1
cannot raise any others. The fruits rot and fall off as soon
almost as the flowers have fallen from them ?— Beginner.

11915. — Large foliage on Cinerarias. — I have
several plants of Cinerarias in my vinery, bringing them
on for winter flowering. Their leaves aro a very Targe size,
and I cannot help thinking that their very luxuriance tends
to take away from the size of the flow-ers themselves. My

? >lonts last year were the same. Can you suggest any roraedy
or this if a remedy be required, or is it better to allow a
large number of the leaves to grow os largo as possible?

| Tho plants, too, become unsightly on this account.—T. M.
Wilson.

__! 11916 — Tea and Mbss Roses in pots.— I should

so as to feel obliged for cultural directions for these fora dwelling-
17 K. B. house window- so as to get a continuation of buds from the

11917.— Winter flowering plants. —I have a green¬
house which is heated just enough to keep Geraniums,
Azaleas, etc., through the winter. What can I grow to
give me a little bloom in the coming winter ? In this
suburb of London I cannot grow Primulas or Cyclamen, and
cannot get anything to bloom in winter except Roman Hya¬
cinths, which make no show-. I hear there is an Iris which
blooms in winter. Could I succoed with it here and woull
it be large enough to make a show? I have some fine
pi ints of ChrysinthcmumsfEthel), w-nich I hear willblocm
all Christmas. What can I grow to follow this ? Istheie
a Narcissus I could get to bloom in December or January ?

I feel sure a satisfactory answer to this will be welcomed
by many.—W inter Despair.

11918.— Raspberry culture.— Would some reader
give some clear and forcible remarks on the treatment of
Raspberry canes ; if pruning immediately after the crop is
desirable, and if three fresh shoots are not sufficient, of
which details it is found impossible to convince a very self-
satisfied gardener ?— Subscriber.

11919.—Gladioli not flowering.—I am anxious to
know why some of my Gladioli have not flowered this
year. I put some “Clay’s fertiliser” in May round the
roots. Could it have been too strong for them?— Bur¬
lington.

11920.—Formation of hedges.— As the season for
planting hedges and shrubberies is approaching, and as
many, like myself, have to think about w-hat will do,
perhaps you will answer in your journal the following
questions :—1. What are the best and most rapidly-grow¬
ing trees for a hedge in a very exposed situation, but good
deep soil ? 2. What evergreen and other shrubs will do in
such a situation ? 3. What are the conditions necessary
to make Rhododendrons succeed in a soil with a limestone
(carboniferous) formation underneath, but at a considerable
depth?—A. B. X.

11921.—Camellias in pots.— I want to have a few
plants of these during the winter in my hoime window¬
facing west, where there w-ill be a good fire in the room
daily. If I were to get some now- just coining into bud, Is
it probable I should be successful with them? I should
like in particular the old double white variety.— North
Londoner.

11922.-Picturesque conservatories.—I am par¬
ticularly interested in “ P. R.’s" details respecting this
subject'in Gardening of 9th inst., and will he kindly say
how he heats his small house, or keeps his plants in
winter?—C. J.

11923.— Constructing a glazed pit.— Will someone
kindlv furnish me with a few practical hints respecting
the best way to build a glazed pit, and to do it without
costing a great deal? I have fnends who would also be
pleased to know the best way to go to work, in order to
get the best for the money expended upon it.—E. D.

11924.— Propagating Coleuses.—I have a large
collection of various Coleus, and would feel much obliged
by being informed how- best to save and increase them.
The heat at command is about 70 degs. during the spring
months, but only a cool greenhouse till February.—
A. M. R.

11925.—Plants beneath trees.—I was much inte¬
rested in reading “ C. H. S.’s” article on “ Arrangement of
Plants,” at page 246, and should be glad if he w ould kindly
explain one particular in it. He mentions having a Lime
w-hich overshadows his law-n, and under which Ferns
grow-. Such a Lime tree is a diflUculty to me here. It
occupies a position by the drive at the entrance of the
garden, and, although beautiful when in foliage, it leaves
the grouud near it very shabby till May, for not even the
Grass w-ill grow underneath it, and I have not ventured
yet to put in Ferns. Does “ C. H. S." find any will grow
under Lime trees ? The aspect here is north. Could ho
suggest what I should plant to improve the appearanoe of
the drive ? The Laurels I put in front of the tree have not
thriven.—G. N.

11926— Diseased Hollyhocks —My Hollyhocks are
all diseased. What is the best cure ?—G. H. Fox,

11927.— Clianthus. —The enclosed sketch is copied
from a spray painted by memanyyearaago, and represents
a kind of Clianthus (I suppose) called by us Sutherlandi.

It is a native of Australia and used to grow freely in
gardens in that part of the world, though now- I cannot
get the seed from Melbourne, owing probably to my igno¬
rance of its true name. It is a shrub growing about 4 or
5 feet high. The leaves are lighter and more delicate than
those of Clianthus puniceus, or C. Dampierii, and the
blossoms do not hide under the branches like those of the
Glory Pea; they are also more scarlet than crimson. The
habit of the plant is erect, and it blossoms freely all the
summer. I shall be much obliged for its correct name,
and also if any reader can tell me where seeds are pro¬
curable.— Vara [Can you not send us a spray, with
flowers if possible ?—Ed.]

11928.—Keeping? fruit and veg?etables.— I have
Apples, and Plums, and Onions almost ripe and should
like to know the best way to keep the above in show con¬
dition? I want to exhibit them in a show- on the 10th
September.— R. Williams. [Keep the fruits in a cool,
airy room, not too light. The Onions will keep rood In
any place. Allow the Apples and Plums to become
thoroughly ripe before you gather them or they will
shrivel.— Ed.]

11929.— Dahlias.— I should be obliged for the following-
information with regard to the Dahlia:—About what period
of its cultivation was the perfect double variety obtained,
also any facts with regard to its early cultivation and accli-
mitisation? — Inquisitor, [The first double Dahlia is
said to have been produced at Berlin in 1809. The first
single Dahlia was introduced in England in 1803, by a Mr.
Fraser, of Sloane Square, London, who procured it in
France. It w-as then cultivated as a greenhouse herbaceous
perennial. It w-as soon afterw-ards found that it could be
easily propagated and that it was quite hardy enough to be
grown in the open air during the summer.—E d.]

11980.— Preparing bulb border.—I have a border
which at present peryi brilliant with Stocks, Asters,
Cetar.iuius, etc. 1 wish te take up these in the autumn

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Auqu8t 30, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

307

and plant the border with Tulips, Narcissi, Crocuses, etc.

I am desirous to have the border duff up and manured
with cow-manure, when I take up the plants which now
occupy it. Will the manure be detrimental to the growth
of the bulbs, or had I better omit the manuring ?— Ranun¬
culus. [The border will be all the better for a dres¬
sing of manure provided the latter is not fresh. It should
be thoroughly aecayed so as to mix well with the soil.
Bulbs do not require much manuring.— Ed.]

11931.—Cutting off Strawberry leavee.-in
this district the leaves of Strawberry plants are all cut off.
Is this right?—T. R, [No ; unless the foliage is infested
with any kind of disease. Upon a plentiful supply of
healthy leaves depends, in a great measure, the next year’s
fruit crop.— Ed.]

11932. —Campanula pyramldalls.—Will you in¬
form me if this Campanula can be exhibited as a green¬
house plant, as I heard some dispute on the subject ?—
U.vbasy. [No ; as this Campanula is a hardy perennial it
cannot properly be shown as a greenhouse plant, although
it is often grown in a greenhouse or conservatory.— Ed.]

11933.—Rose gall.— Please say what this red excre¬
scence is on the Rose which was found growing on the
seashore in county Donegal — Q. W. [The red excrescence
on the Rose is formed bv the grub of a gall fly (Rhodites
rosae) nearly related to those which form the grubs on Oak
leaves. These mossy galls, or bedeguars, as they are often
called, are very common in some places.—G. S. S.]

11984. — Raising Castor Oil plant. — I am stay¬
ing in a country house, where in several of the rooms
they keep a pot containing a small Castor Oil plant
about a foot high. This is done to keep away the
flies, and it certainly has that effect, but the trouble
is that they do not know how to manage the Castor
Oil plant. The poor thing soon begins to lose its leaves
and then dies, and their gardener knows nothing about
its habits. It occurred to me that perhaps you would
kindly tell me something about it. Does it want much
or little water and what kind of mould ? Can you also
tell me a good place to get the plants, and are they pro¬
pagated by seeds or cutting ?—M. .1. G. S. [The Castor Oil
is a tropical plant, or low tree, in our country quite easy
to get and grow from seed every year. Sow in a hotbed or
stove and pot on, planting out in the open air the first
week in June, in good, moist Boil in warm spot; it then
grows like a weed, as you may see in the parks. It is quite
easy to raise for pots in the same way. The seeds can be
obtained from any seedsman.]

11935.—Culture of Lillum Auratum.—Will you
please tell me what to do with bulbs of this Lily when they
nave done flowering? Last year I had some and they
rotted as Boon as they finished flowering.—E. M. Nbwill.
[The soil in the pots must be kept moderately dry until
the foliage is quite decayed. When the stems have died
away the bulbs should be taken out of the soil and placed
in dryish soil and stowed away until the spring in a dry,
airy place. Any decayed parts should be cut away when
the bulbs are lifted.— Ed.]

11930.—Insects on Scarlet Runners.— Various
reasons and remedies are given in Gardening with regard
to the bloom of Scarlet Runners falling off, and whatever
may be the cause elsewhere, I am satisfied from experience
here at Aberdeen that the blossom is destroyed by a small
beetle, of which 1 enclose a sample just taken from my
garden, and these insects are to be found on every head
of flower in more or less numbers. If you will give this
question some notice, and ask for suggestions as to what
can be done to get rid of or reduce these pests I shall be
obliged.— Robert Church, Lieut.-Col. [The beetle found
on Col. Church’s Scarlet Runners belong to a genus of
beetles called Meligethes, w-hich are very common on
various plants. I was unaware that they were injurious
to flowers, but when they are present in such large numbers
as they are on your Beans it is quite possible that they may
be, but the flowers were so dried that I could not see' what
injury had been done to them. Shake the flowers over a
freshly painted or tarred board, or sheet of tin. Syringing
with some insectide would be useful in driving them
away and perhaps killing them, but until the flowers are
" set” it might interfere with that.—G. 8. S.]

11937.—Mildew on Roses.—I should be glad to
know what is the cause of the enclosed leaves mildewing
and the reason? Up to the present my Rose trees have
been singularly free from disease or pest of any kind. 1
have watered them weekly with weak liquid manure water.
The trees have made wonderful growth and the blooms
have been very fine. This blight seems only to attack the
young growth, leaves as well as stalks. I have tried dusting
with flowers of sulphur, but apparently without effect, as
the blight seems to be rapidly extending to all my trees.—
F. W. Smith. [If you have tried flour of sulphur there
ia no other remedy we can advise. Now' that the foliage of
the Roses have fully developed, not much harm will accrue
from being mildewed. It is caused by the long spell of dry
weather.— Ed.]

POULTRY.

Fowls with sore necks.— (“ Bantam ”).
—The bare and sore necks are without a doubt
occasioned by feather eaters having been im¬
ported into your yard with the birds you
recently bought. The vice of eating each
others’ feathers is not at all uncommon, and
generally originates from one bird ; but, being
very infectious, those observed to be addicted
ihould at once be removed. The birds should
be closely watched, especially when massed
together enjoying a little sunshine. It is then
that the cannibal commences operations. The
cock is generally the first to suffer, and the vice
ia confined almost solely to hens. It is very diffi¬
cult to effect a cure, and, unless the bird be a
valuable one, we should recommend you to kill
all discovered in the act. The following reme¬
dies have been known to break hens of the
habit:—By providing jalepty of occupation by
scratchrjig in some heft of ^m^nurubbish,

and giving an entire change of diet; separation
for a time, or by placing among strange birds.
If meat has not formed part of their
diet, give a little every day. A few
bones to pick are very good, but if they
have been having a regular supply of meat,
with hold a part or even all. Acetate of
morphia in very small quantities will do good.
Besides the action of feather-eating hens, there
are one or two other causes for feathers coming
out. Many birds, from irritation of the skin,
plnck out their own feathers. Anoint the parts
with grease, or petroleum ointment is better
still. In damp, unclean runs and houses, there
often appear minute animalcule, which bore
and eat through the feathers until they fail and
drop out one by one. This shows a great dis¬
regard for cleanliness, and proj>er drainage, and
ventilation, and the remedy is very simple.
Your treatment is good, and the powdered
sulphur added to the dust bath is capital. As
the moulting season is close at hand, when
the birds will put on their new plumago, we
should advise you to take immediate steps in
this matter. By Portland Rocks we suppose
you mean Plymouth Rocks, as we never heard
of such breed as the former.— Andalusian.

Plymouth Rocks. — “ L. M.” — Your
inquiry as to why black Plymouth Rocks should
be of no use for show purposes is easily
answered. There must be a standard of
excellence for every breed, and one of the chief
points in Plymouth Rocks is that the plumage
be of uniform striped grey throughout. We do
not know of any keepers or exhibitors of Black
Rocks, and must decidedly express our hope
that such will always be considered as a sport
only, and all of such colour consigned to the pot.
We feel sure one colour is sufficient for each
breed, and should be very sorry to see the sober
plumaged, useful Plymouth Rock made the
sport of fanciers. It always ends in degenera¬
tion of stamina and useful qualities.— Anda-
lusan.

Fowl unhealthy.—I have a white Dorking chicken
twelve weeks old. Its head is an unhealthy colour, the beak
and throat full of a secretion. It appears to be continually
trying to swallow, which muscular effort it apparently
fulfils with difficulty. Can any of your correspondents
advise me what treatment to adopt?— Charles Towklby.

Pullets laying soft eggs. -Can any of your readers
tell me the cause, and also the cure, for some of my pullets
laving soft eggs ? Thev were hatched in March, are very
healthy, and fed on Wheat and Barley and have un¬
limited run.—J. B.

Vermin on fowls.— I have lost several good hens by
merely being infested with vermin. I tried Keating's
insect powder, also sulphur ointment, which destroyed the
vermin, but have covered the henB with a scab, and they
died shortly afterwards. Can you kindly suggest a
remedy ?— Subscriber.

AQUARIA.

Management of bell-glass aquarium.
—A few plants in the aquarium are indispen¬
sable, as they supply the water with the oxygen
which the fish inhale. If you are living in the
country go to the nearest brook or clean pond
and you will find a great variety of beautiful
plants available. It is not necessary to get the
roots of all of them, get them in as long as you
possibly can, wash them well to clear off any
objectionable growth, and then gently separate
the best, tying them firmly but not too tightly
in bunches, and fix them m the bottom among
the stones. These should be left in the water a
few days before the fish are put in. The
common Duckweed is a very useful plant during
the hot weather, as it affords shade from the
sun. The water snail is not actually much
good, but will add materially to the interest of
the aquarium. Plants used to be procurable
years ago at various shops in London.—J. O.

- The water in an aquarium should never

be changed, but merely added to as evaporation
takes place. The oxygen for the fish is supplied
by the plants which it is absolutely necessary to

g row. “ Margarita ” can obtain these in any
sh pond, but 1 should most strongly advise her
to purchase a little “Handbook to the Fresh
Water Aquarium,” by Shirley Hibberd, and
from this she will glean all the information she
requires. The bell-glass should be covered by
a circular piece of glass, projecting about h inch
over the sides all round, which prevents dust
settling upon the surface. Snails do not purify
the water, but simply cleanse the glass and the
plants from the confervoid growth which invari¬
ably appears in stagnant water,—R. F-, Ashton-
upon-Mersey,

BEBS.

Wild bees in bank.— Can the Editor
explain the following ?—On a grassy bank a
large piece of dry moss was noticed to be laid
gently down, seeming to lie lightly on the tops
of the grass. Soon it was observed to heave
slowly, but steadily, and some bees were seen
to go under the moss and to come out from it.
They have now made two pathways through the
grass for a short distance to the moss. The
bees are small and fluffy, like tiny wild bees,
and yet they look more like hive bees.
Can it be that a swarm of hive bees have
alighted on the bank, or are they wild bees?
No person within a mile or two of the house
keeps bees. Would it hurt or in any way
injure the bees if the moss were lifted, just
to see what they are doing? The heaving
of the moss continues, and it appears
to be a little thinner, and to have moved
its position slightly. It is about six weeks
since the moss was first observed.—M. S.
[It is impossible to name the bees without
seeing them, but they cannot be “hive bees.”
You will do no harm by gently lifting the moss.
Beneath it you will probably find their nest.
Had you not alluded to their similarity to hive
bees I should have suggested that you had found
a nest of one of the bumble bees (Bombus
muscomm), which makes its nest of moss. Send
one of the bees, and I will give you its name.—
G. S. S.j

Destroying wild bees.—I hav« a shed in my garden,
in which a swarm of bees have taken up their quarters
under the floor boards. I think they are wild ones ; they
arc a round black variety, and, os they come in at the
door, they annoy me very much. How could I get at the
nest without being attacked by them, and what would be
the best time? Any information would oblige.— Constant
Subscriber

UHANTED, Geraniums or Cuttings—Happy

** Thought, Marshal MacMahon, Madam Voucher,
Crystal Palace Gem. Master Christine.— E. POTTER, Belve¬
dere, Harrogate.

"PUCHSIA CUTTINGS.—Now is the time to

-L strike for early blooming. Cuttings from a choice collec¬
tion, Is. 3d. doz., rooted, 2s. doz.—Catalogue with cultural
directions onestamp.—W. E. BOYCE, F.R.H.S., 87, Yerbury-
road, Holloway, London.

pUCHSIA—MRS. RUNDELL.—Nice plants

-1- of this fine, winter-blooming variety, now ready, 9d. each.
W. E. BOYCE, as above.

ULORISTS’ FLOWERS.—I beg to intimate

that my grand collection of Pansies, Violas, Phloxes,
Pentstemons, Antirrhinums, Roses, Ac., are now in fine flower
at my Nursery. Beech Hill, near Edinburgh. Inspection
invited.—JOHN DOWNIE, Nurseryman, 14. Princes Street,
Edinburgh.

SPECIAL OFFER Ofr BELGIAN PLANTS.

^ —Azalea Indica, Camellias, Azalea Mollis, hardy Ghent
Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Palms, Orchids, Ac., sc. Extra fine
plants, best varieties at lowest prices. Ch. Yuylsteke,
Nurseryman, Loochristy, Ghent, Belgium. Catalogue free
on application to Messrs. R. SILBERRAD A SON, ?5,
Savage Gardens, Crutched Friars, London, E.C.

HERANIUM CUTTINGS. — Wanted good

'J Cuttings of the following varieties: Vesuvius, Henry
Jacoby, Master Christine, Virgo Maria, Black Douglas,
MacMahon, Sophia Dumaresque, Mrs. Pollock, Mrs. John
Clutton, Flower of Spring, Prince Silverwings, Crystal Palace
Gem, and other good sorts.—8end sample and price per 109 or
1,000 to DANIELS BROS., Town Close Nurseries. Norwich.

Hindaford, Tyldesley.

TTOTHOUSE GRAPES, black, finest quality,

LI- 2s. per lb.; 2 lb. for 3s. 6d. Carefully packed. Carriage
aid per parcels post.—JOHN HILL. Italian Warehouseman,

Stratforcl-on-Avon._[ 1973

A URICULAS, choice named show varieties,

i2s. dozen, all distinct, green, grey, and white edges; and
seifs, such as Lovely Ann, Imperator, Mrs. Clark, Colonel
Chaiupneys, Prince Albert, Duke of Cambridge, Maggie
Lauder, Vulcan. Ac. Seedlings, Is. 3d. dozen.—GEO. W.
WHEELWRIGHT, Old Swlnford. Stourbridge. [1974

fJEORGE BOYES & CO. —STRIKE CUT-

vX TINGS now, dibble 3 inches apart in road grit, out of
doors, will make good plants for winter blooming.
Geraniums, Niobe (new), Lumen (new). Lady E. Campbell,
Atala, Rev. Atkinson. Jewel, Mrs. Leavers, Marne. A. Baltet,
Aurora, Oliv e Carr, one o f each p os t free. Is.. P .Ch_

HUTTINGS, strong, healthy, cuttings—Pelar-

U goniums, Glolre de Lille, Mabel, Duke of Albany, Rosy
Gem, Kingston Beauty. Bertie Boyes, Scarlet Gem, Triomphe
de 81. Mande, Duchess of Bedford, one of each, post free.
Is., P.O.—Geraniums, 10 strong, well-rooted plants for winter
blooming, all distinct varieties, 3s.—Aylestone Park, Leicester

TkURHAM FLOWER SHOW AND IN

-Lf DUSTRIAL EXHJBITION.—On Tuesday and Wednes¬
day, September 9th and 10th. Schedules may be had on appli
cation to Mr. George H. Procter, Market Place, Durham, to
whom all entries must be made. Entries close September 1st.
' BULBSniULBB, BULBS!

Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays.

MK, J. C. STEVENS will SELL by

-ILL AUCTION, at his Great Rooms, 38, King Street.
Covent Garden, regularly THREE TIMES A WEEK as
above, large consignments of lint-class DUTCH FLOWER
ROOTS, lotted to suit uoth large and small buyers. The
ealos commence at half-past. 12, finishing generally about 5.—
On view mornings of sale, and catalogues Had.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

308

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[August 30, 1884.

r . M. OR.O

BEOS to call attention to hla largo stock of the following In
small or largo pots, by post or rail; other advertisements see
front page of this issue.

TROUBLE & SINGLE ZONAL GERANIUMS ;

-Lr very best named varieties, 3s. 6d. dozen; newer, 6s., 9s.,
and 12s. dozen. See catalogue.

10 non TUBEROUS BEGONIAS.— My

strain la now well known and unsurpassed
by any in England. Twelve seedlings of thin year, from the
beat hybridised seed, and sure to pn uluce many Startling new
varieties; mixed colours, such as red. scarlet, magenta, rose,
salmon, white, bronze, yellow, 4c., 4a. by post; in pots, 5s.;
tier 100, 30s. These will all flower profusely this year

5 Dfin CYCLAMEN.—These have been

rested, and are now fit for starting into growth
for early bloom in the autumn; good conns, by poet, 3s. 6d.,
8 p , and 7s. fid. dozen ; seedlings of this year. 3s. 6d. dozen.
All an* from the finest Covont Garden strains, bnt I cannot
(totisibly compete with the prices of inferior varieties.

TVY-LEAF GERANIUMS.—These plants are

-b unequalled for hanging boskets, etc. Twelve of the
grandest single and double varieties in cultivation, 4s.; 12
newer, 6s. and 9s. Her catalogue.

1 0 non PELARGONIUMS.—This is the

\ \J \J U very best time to purchase young plants to
grow on, either for early flowering next spring or to obtain
Miecituens fit for exhibiting next summer. The following are
all strong, healthy plants, in 60 s pots, or by j>ost, and fully de
scribed in catalogue -Twelve show and decorative varieties.
8s,. per 100, 35s.; six best regal varieties, 3s. 6d. ; the new and
scarce regal varieties. Madame Boucharl.it, Madame Judic,
Pulichinell«, 4c , Is. fid. each. Larger plants, in 5-inch pots,
always in stock ; my selection, 12s.. 18s., and 24s. dot.

WINTER - FLOWERING PLANTS. — The

" ’ following are all excellent, and should be purchased at
once. Six Salvias, in 6 best varieties, 2s. 6d. ; 6 Abutilons, in
6 best varieties, 2* . fid. ; 6 Heliotrope*, in 3 l»est varieties,
1*. fid.; 6 Marguerites, yellow and white, Is. &L ; Begonia
Brisartc (new), white flowers. Is. ; Gardenias, Is. each, 9s
dozen; Tuberoses, 5s. and 7s. 6d. dozen. Larger sizes, see
catalogue.

QTOVE AND GREENHOUSE CLIMBERS.

^ My stock is now very large, including the best and most
easily grown, such ns Passifloros, 8tephanotis, Plumbagos.
Tacsouias. Allumandas, Clcrodendrons, Hoy as, Jasmines. 4c.
See catalogue, page 77, for both large and small sizes. Tw elve,
all distinct, my selection, post, or 60 s pots, 7s. 6d.; ditto.
5-inch pots, 12s., 15*., and 18s

f)HRYSANTHEMUMS.-All the beat large-

^ flowered Japanese and Pompone varieties, by post, 2s. fid.
dozen; stronger in pots, 3s fid. doz. See Catalogue.

NOTICE TO THE TRADE.

W. M. CROWE

Is prepared to Supply the Trade on liberal terms for cash

List of Palms, Ferns, Begonias, &c
on application.

BOLEYN NURSERY, UPTON,

SCOTCH GARDENERS.

JOHN DOWN IE, Seedsman, 144, Princes Street, Edin¬
burgh, has at present on his list a number of Scotch
Gardeners waiting re-engagements, at wages ranging from
£50 to £100 per auuum, and he will be pleased to supply full
particulars to any nobleman or geutlemun requiring a trust¬
worthy and competent gardener.

WHITTAKER & WHITEHEAD, of Ferriby

Y Y Nursery, Breadsall, Derby, are offering, post free
for seven stamp's, packets of the*ir celebrated strain of
Aquilegios, including the red spurred chrysantha and other
tine sorts. If sown at once in a cold frame and Planted out
in spring the plants will bloom next season. Buckets of the
choicest Delphiniums, including Cantabs and many flue d< mblo
vari eties, for seven atanum._ _ (1861

WALLFIX)WEH8, Sweet Williams, Antirr-

* * hinums, Canterbury Bells, good plants, 4s. per 100 —
W. DIXUN, Castle Hill and Cranfurd Nursery, Maidenhead.

flR APES.—Block Hamburgh, 2 lbs., 4s. 6d.;

61b*., 12» • S*lhs„ €2 8s. Cash with orders. Carriage
I J ASHELFoBD, 1)

FIR TREE OIL INSECTICIDE (soluble in water)
Effectually clears all INSECTS and PARASITES from the
Routs or Foliage of Troes and Plants. Kills all Vegetable
Grubs, Turnip Fly, 4c. Cures Mildew and Blight. Clears
Grapes from Mealy Bug, 4c , and makes a good Winter
Dressing. Of all Seedsmen and Chemists, Is 6d.. 2d fid.,
4s. 6d. a bottle Per gallon 12s. fid,, o» less in larger quantities.
A Treatise on “Fir Tret OH," anti its application, sent free on
receipt of adtlrttu buthe Manufacturer, E. GRIFFITHS
HUGHES, MANCHESTER Wholesale from Hooper 4
Co.; Corry, Soper, Fowi.f.r 4 Co.; C. E. Osman 4 Co.,
and from all tbe London Seed Merchants and Wholesale
Patent Medicine Houses.

rjOCOA-NUT FIBRE REFUSE.—Bestquality,

as supplied to the principal Nursery men and the Nobility,
1*. per bag; 15 bags, 14s.; 30 bags, 25s. Sent to all ports.
Truck, loose. 25s., free to rail. Best Loam and Peat.—A.
FOULON. 32. St Marv Axe

(XARDEN Stakes, Labels, Virgi
'-T Raffia. 4c. None cheaper - WATS <
90,Lower Thames-street, London. E.C.

SON aud SCULL,

& ARDEN POTS, 12 sin., 20 61s., 50 0fn.,

50 4 in , 50 3 in., packed in case and sent to roil for
7fl. fid cash —H.GODDARD. Pottery, Peckham, London. |1975

TT1KGIN CORK FOR FERNERIES AND

* CONSERVATORIES —The cheapest and best house In

T/wdon -G.I/lOlCVhiKOOiO.. is. Hig h St . Rloorrmhurv W

DOXES ! BOXES 1 BOXES !—ftetoT“flower

Boxes for sending cut flowers, cuttings, bull*. 4c . safely
by post. Three dozen assorted sizes by parcels post for
5s. Gd., or sample dozen for 2k. Also Boxes for sending game
and wedding cake; and Boxes of all descriptions. Hi
prices for large quantities —Apply, H. TANT
Box Factory. Torrii ~

, “Apply,

_ring too, Devo n __

Honey from
l “THE APIARY" 8s. <
hour (Geo. Neighbour 4 Sons.

Regent Street, W.

c Factory.

H.ATHER

'J “THE At

. Ions. Kiwcial
8. TA\TON 4 CO.,

your Flowers.—

5d.b_ By Alfred Neigh

(postage

h_127, High Holborn. W.C.). 149,

it* Son*. 127, High Holborn. V
I'ittt suriTvtii Oartten andlG.i

b v GoogK

HUGHES’

:%APHICIDE

1/6

Enables the
operator to
apply the
Insecticide
underneath
r tie leaves, the
superfluous liquid
falling on the upper
surface while descending

One to four teospoonsfnl of
the Fir Tree Oil to a pint of soft
water will answer for all insect*
on plants For further directions
see label on bottle.

E. GRIFFITHS HUGHES, Operative Chemist,

VICTORIA STREET, MANCHESTER.

SPECIALLY CHEAP CLASS.

Packing Cases free and not returnable.

100 squares ^lass at the following prices

134 by 6 for 10*. Od.
12 by 9 ,. 10*. Od.

14 by 10

15 by 9
12 by 12
15 by 12
18 by 12
20 by 12

13s. 6<1.
13s. 6d.
13s. fid.
19s. 0<L
22s. Od.
25s. Od.

21 oz.

134 by 8 for 14*. Od

12 by

14 by 10

15 by 9 ,
12 by 12
15 by 12
IS by 12
20 by 12 ,

14 s. Od.
21s. Od.
21s. Od.
21s. Od.
26s. fid.
32s. Od.
35*. Od.

300 squares 15-<>z., 8 by 6, or 250 squares, 8J by 6), or !
* - - ' ' 150*.-

squares, 94 by Ci, or 170 squares, 9 by 74, or

" * i. 6a.

squares, 10 by

8,' for 10a. &L

Putty, Id. per lb.; Paint, ready mixed, in lib., 21b., 41b., and
71b. tins, at 5d per lb. Other sizes of glass quoted for on
application. All glass packed in own Warehouse, seldom any
breakage. Intending purchasers will obligo by making their
frames to suit the above sizes.

HENRY WAINWRIGHT,

Wholesale Glass Warehouse,

8 4 10, ALFRED STREET. BOAR LANE. L EED S.

“Genuine Garden Requisites.

A S SUPPLIED TO THE ROYAL GARDENS,

the leading Gentry, and Florists of the United Kingdom,
Cocoa-nut Fibre Refuse, best only, Is. Gd. i*r sack ; 10 for 13*.;
15 for 18*. ; 20 for 22s. ; 30 fur 30s., sacks included. Truck,
containing more than two tons, free on rail, 33s. Selected
Brown Fibrous Peat, 5s.t>er sack ; 5 for 22s. 6tL Black Peat,
4a. 6d. per sack; 5 for 2us. Coarse Silver Sand, Is. 6d. per
bushel; 14«. ball ton ; 25a. per ton. Yellow Fibrous Liam,
Leaf Mould, aud Peat Mould, each at la. per bushel.
SACK* AND Baoh 4d. Kacii. Fresh Sphagnum. 8«. fid. pel
sack. Manures, Garden Sticks, Labels, Vlrgiu Cork, Russian
Mata, Rallia, Prepared Compost, Fertiliser, 4c Best
TOBACCO CLOTH, 8d. per lb.; 28 lb., 18*. SPF.CIALITE
Tobacco Paper, lOd per lb. ; 28 lb. 21s. Price List on applica¬
tion . — W. HERBERT 4 CO., 2, Hop Exchange Warehouses,
Sout h wark Street, Lon don S.E. (late 19, New Broad Htreeti.

GARDEN REQUISITES.

pOCOA-NUT FIBRE REFUSE, is. 3d. per

bag; 10 bags for 12s.; 30 for 30s.; truck load, free on
rail. 30a : Beat Brown Fibrous Peat, 5a. ner sock, 5 for 22s 6d.;
Black Fibrous Peat, 4s. 6<1 ner sack. 5 for 20s.; Coarse Silver
Sand. Is. fid. per bushel; Yellow Fibrous Loam. Leaf, and
Peat Mould, Is. ner bush. Potting Compost, la. 4<i. per bush.:
5*. per sack. Manures of all kinds. Garden Sticks and
Labels Tobacco Cloth. Sd. per lb.: Speclalite Paper. lOd. per
lb. —Write for price list.—W. E. WARD 4 CO., Union
r- W< -riuwood Street. London. B.O.

r \V IS THE TIME TO PURCHASE

POULTRY for STOCK and EXHIBITION PUR-
POSES.— Messrs. R. R FOWLER 4 CO , Prebendal Farm.
Aylesbury, will send their DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE of
the 37 DISTINCT BREEDS kept by them, with “HINTS
ON REARING AND MANAGEMENT, 4c..** on receipt of
stump, t o auy address __

PORTABLE SPAN-ROOF GREENHOUSE,

-I- nhown at the Leicester Agricultural Show, 12 ft by 8 ft.,
9 f t 9 in. high, mode of selected red deal, glazed with 21 oz.
glars, painted 4 coat* staging complete, fitted with the
“ L >ughborough" boiler and 4 in. piping, ornamented coloured-
glass door, £20, house only £14, carriage paid (Photograph
of this house cun be hadl. —H. BRUIN, Belvulr St. Leicester

t c. 8TEVENS, HOK ITU U LTURAL,

U • SCIENTIFIC, and NATURAL HISTORY SALE
ROOMS, 38, King Street, Covent Garden, London. Esta¬
blished 1780. Sale* by auction nearly every day. Catalogue*
on application or pout free. _

OH non YARDS superior, extra strong,

tOUfUUU tanned string GARDEN NETTING, 1, 2. 3
and 4 yards wide. Id. per square yard: 300 yards, 15a ; 600,
£2 2a. G*-od netting, 100 yards, 5s. 6d.; highly recommended
—L. MAUDE, 292, Stamford Street, Ashton-under-Lyne.
London Agent

Price Sixpence each

VEGETABLE LIFE and FLOWERLESS

v PLANTS, by N. Danvers; Illustrated Natural History,

WITH MAP OP WORLD, 3s fid.— Philip 4 Bon, Publishers,
32. Fleet Bt.. E.C ., and Liverpool. _

P Il SALE, five volumes of GARDENING

with Index complete -To be seen at "O. J.," The Lodge,
BucVhurst Hill Essex

DEAHE & CO.’S

Conservatories and Greenhouses.

The prices given Include F.rectino Complete, with oU
necessary brickwork, 4c.. within fifteen miles of London.

SPAN ROOF CONSERVATORY.

Size .. 15 ft. by 9 ft. .. 20 ft. by 12 ft. .. 25 ft. by 13 fl
Price £30. £4210s. £58.

LEAN-TO GREENHOUSE.

Size. .10 ft. by 6 ft. 12ft. by B ft 15 ft. by 10ft. 20 ft. by lift
Price £19108. £2310«. £2910s. £40.

Proportionate prices for other sizes and at any distanoa
Drawings and estimate* for Conservatories free.

THE

LOUGHBOROUGH
HOT WATER APPA
RATU8 complete, oa
shown, with 12 ft. ol
♦-in. Hot-water Pipe,
£4 4*.

The simplest. Cheap¬
est, and most power¬
ful Apparatus mode

It require* no brick setting, no stokehole, and no hot-water
fitter for fixing, and burns more than 12 hours without
attention.

Price of apparatus for houses of any size on application

Catalogue with Particulars Free.

& OO-,

40, King William St., London Bridge.

THOMAS’S

GARDEN HURDLES.

1-

tu.

Ti\

iA

E

P

:[

.J

I

1

1

1

II

of the Intcnuitiontd
Health Exhibition.

6ft. long by 3ft. 6in. high.
PAINTED.

Price 4 b. 3d. per
yard.

. V - U \J U w

THOMAS’oj
Gaxvanised (
Wiro Netting. >

REDUCED CASH PRICES, 1884.
PRICES PER ROLL OF 50 YARDS.

11 ft. wide. 2 ft. wide.

3 ft. wide. 4 ft. wide.

6 ft. wide.

Mesh.

8. <L

B. d.

; d.

a d.

a d.

3-inch .

.26

5 0

7 C

10 0

15 0

2-inch .

3 0

' 6 0

9 0

12 0

18 0

14-incb .

4 6

' 9 0

13 6

18 0

27 0

11-inch .

. 6 0

12 0

18 0

24 0

36 0

1-inch .

7 0

14 0

21 0

28 0

—

Usual widths kept in Stock—12, 18, 34, 30, 36, and 48 inches.
Orders of 40*. and upwards carriage paid to any railway
station in Eugland.

TYING WIRE, fid per lb CITTTING NIPPERS. Is. 3d.
per pair ROOFING FELT, 32in. wide. 44d. per yard.
GALVANISED CORRUGATED SHEETS. 6ft by 2ft ,
2a. 3d. each. Special Ouotations for Large Quantities.

J. J. THOMAS & CO.,

87, Quoon Victoria Street, E.C.;

285 and 362, Edgware Road, London, W.

MELON 4 CUCUMBER
FRAME8.

Glazed ami painted,
complete, 28*.

BEFORE Purchasing

■D inspect stock at the Wnit

nREEi

'J ALFl

Greenhouses call and
inspect stock at the Whittington Horticultural Worka.
Span Roof Greenhoum*s from £5 5s. Lean-to from £4 10*.
All kinds of Conservatories made to order. Catalogue* Free
on application.- Note address —GEO. DAWSON, Horti¬
cultural Builder, Highgate Hill. London. N. _

NHorsKS FOK THE MILLION—

ALFRED PEEL 4 SON. Horticultural Builders, Wood
Green, Londou: also Windhill, Shipley, Yorkshire. Green¬
house* complete, from 5fis.; conservatory, from £5; over 3.000
of our houses erected In all ports of the kingdom. Illus¬
trated catalogue, post free, three stamps. Note name and
address, _

T EAN 15 ft. by 10 ft.,

U £10 17s.; 20 ft. by10 ft., £12 lit.: front 5 ft. high, * *

MVVfifiBMBF'f ffl®

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

SEPTEMBER 6, 1884.

No. 287.

OUTDOOR PLANTS,

ANEMONE NARCISSIFLORA.
Parkinson has in his “ Garden of Pleasant
Flowers’* a page or two treating of “the
nature and names of divers outlandish flowers,
that, for their pride, beauty, and earlinesse,
are to be planted in gardens of pleasure for
delight.” And under this head he thus alludes
to Anemones: “The Anemones likewise, or
Windeflowers, are so full of variety, and so
dainty, so pleasant, and so delightsom, flowers
that the sight of them doth
enforce an earnest, longing
desire in the minde of any
one to be a possessour of some
of them at least. For without
all doubt this one kind (genus)
of flower, so variable in
colours, so differing in form
(being almost as many Borts of
them double as single), so
plentiful in bearing flowers,
and so durable in lasting, and
also so easie both to preserve
and grow, is of itself almost
sufficient to furnish a garden
with flowers for almost half
a year.” Altogether our old
author describes between sixty
and seventy varieties, and
gives engravings of many.

This w'aa m the year 1629, but
nowadays the species and
varieties of Anemone girdle
the whole year with their
flowers, seeing that on warm,
dry soils near the sea the seed¬
ling varieties of A. coronaria
(sown in April) commence to
flower in November, and do
their best to defy all but the
most bitter of frosts or of
snowy weather.

Anemone narcissiflora is
so graceful in habit of leaf and
inflorescence alike, that we
may fairly say that no collec¬
tion is complete without it.

It is a native of the Pyrenees,
and grows from 18 inches to
2 feet in height when in flower
in May. A deep, rich, moist
soil in a partially shaded
position suits it perfectly. Its
finely cut leaves are borne on
stalks varying from 6 inches
to a foot in height, and from
these the flower stems spring,
each bearing from four to
twelve flowers in an irregular
umbel, the flower-stalks or
pedicels springing from a
whorl of leaf-like involucral
bracts. The flowers them¬
selves are pure white, hairy
behind, with a tuft of golden
stamenB in the centre. Well grown
a noble plant, almost os rare as it is beauti
ful. It belongs to that race of Windflowers
which bear long-awned or Clematis-like seeds,
and, although freshly harvested seed may
germinate more freely, I have always failed
with the imported Beeds which I have obtained
from time to time. Our illustration was drawn
from a fine specimen bearing six or eight tall
flowering stems in the garden at Straffan House,
County Kildare. F. W. B.

MAKING AND MANAGEMENT OF
SMALL GARDENS.

(Continual from jtatje 298.)

Annuals and biennials arc not well managed
as a rule in small gardens. The soil is not
usually well prepared for them, and they are
sown too late. A more common cause of
failure is the selection of inferior kinds. It is a
rare thing to see good annuals in a small
garden. Amateurs seern usually to buy those
kinds which are suitable for woodland walks,
and the filling of out-of-the-way places in shrub¬

Ancmone narcissiflora. Flowers white, yellow centre. (Natural size.)

it

Hyaclnthus candicans. —The flowering
season of this noble bulbous plant has just com¬
menced. A group of this plant rightly placed
in a garden—that is, where its tall spires of
white blossoms have a background of foliage
—has a fine effect. It is one of those plants
that are not very effeQtive seen aa T solitary
specimens, but very Jh“u<?h so whj T

vuissc. Digitized by. V-jtJt

beries. There are a few good annuals which are
quite worthy to be associated with the finest
plants grown. The severe selection t hat must
be made in stocking a Binall garden tenders the
rejection of anything in the least degiee inferior
an absolute necessity. Some hardy annuals are
useful, however, to till up blanks and hide early
flowering plants.

If all the perennials are grown that should
be grown in a small garden, there will not be
room for many hardy annuals beyond a few to
help the late bloom. I have several times tried
sowing annuals amongst Crocuses, Daffodils,
and other spring flowers, but always found
them to come up poorly, probably through
these plants growing strongly at the same time
and starving them. The best way is to bow in

E ots and plant out when the spring flowers
ave died down. A few very beautiful annuals
will not suit this treatment. Bart^nia aurea
is a beautiful thing when well grown, flowers
3 inches across, with a tuft of shining floss silk

in the centre of each, has a carrot-like root with
few fibres, and will not transplant. Leptosi-
phons have to be sown very early, or they
make poor plants and are quickly over. Clarkias
and Godetiaa are best sown either in autumn
or at the earliest possible moment. The best
to bow after spring bulbs are Linum grandi-
florum rubrum, Coreopsis in variety, Viscarias
in variety, annual Chrysanthemums in variety,
the annual Lupines, and Nolana atriplicifolia, an
annual, with long creeping stems, which hug the
ground. The old Love Lies Bleeding and Prince’s
Feather are splendid things when properly
grown ; the ground should be
well dressed with rotted cow-
dung. Of others, which re¬
quire early sowing, Xeranthe-
mum annuum is a useful ever¬
lasting ; the double stock-
flowered Larkspurs are very
beautiful ; Eschscholtzias are
favourites everywhere; Sanvi-
talia procumbcns fl.-pl. is a
good yellow; Omphalodes lini-
folia is a good white ; Cen-
taurea Cyanus, Kaulfussia
amelloides, and Whitlavia
gloxinioHea are good blues;
and dwarf Tropa?olums may
be sown all through the
season. Vilmorin’s Rocket
Candytufts are very fine. Of
half-hardy annuals, Phlox
Drummondi, Zinnias, and
Asters are now well known,
and one occasionally sees a

5 ood bloom of Indian and
apanese Pinks, but what
small amateur grows Daturas?
They are easily raised from
seed, and, planted out in warm
peaty soil, are quite sensation

S lants. D. ccratocaula pro-

uces white trumpets 5 inches
across the mouth ; and D.
fastuosa Huberiana produces
double trumpets not quite so
large ; there are other varie¬
ties. They all like a light
peaty soil and a hot place. I
raised these one warm spring
in an unheated greenhouse,
but ordinarily they require
heat. Hibiscus africanus is a
good annual with cream-col¬
oured flowers and maple-like
leaves. Sphenogyne speciosa
and S. aurea are pretty soft
yellow Daisies on stems 1 foot
high ; they are as large as the
common Oxeye. French and
African Marigolds are well
known. HeUchrysums are
useful for cutting though not
showy. Of biennials, Stocks
claim first place. They are
suitable for small gardens, and
are usually miserable things
there. They require rich well worked soil plenti¬
fully manured, and are the better for liquid
manure while growing. A little lime in the soil
improves them. The Brompton and Queen are
biennial kinds ; they should be sown in June or
July, and pricked out where they are to bloom
as early as possible, so as to get well grown
before winter. The ground should be well
drained and a sheltered position is the most
suitable. Annual Stocks can be raised in a
sunny greenhouse or cold frame, or may have a
touch of heat just to start growth ; as soon as
they have made three pairs of leaves they should
go to their blooming places. They should be
planted 6 inches apart, and be thinned out to
18 inches to 2 feet apart as they show for
blossom, the best being almost always the latest
to show' flower. The ten-week kind bloom first,
and are followed by the intermediate kinds.
German stock^-flowered Wallflowers should be
in evfcjry garden. They irequire’^he saroe^reat-
ment as y^y-ds ,spwiiig,_^c., as biennial Stocks,

310

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 6 , 1884.

but like a lighter soil and less manure; the
colours are many shadesof yellow, brown, brown-
crimson, and violet. One trained on a wall here,
facing east, reached 4 feet high with many fine
spikes of bloom, each flower being as large as
those of the finest Stocks. Stocks and Wall-
flow'ers are grand spring flowers on chalk soils.
The Sweet William is one of the best biennials.

It should be sown in July and August and
pricked out where it is to bloom in September.
The Daddy-longlegs grubis a great enemy to this

f lant in towns. I lost the whole of the first plants
grew in London through these grubs eating
them through just at the ground line. Canter¬
bury Bells are good biennials and do well to
alternate with Sweet Williams. German dwarf
Scabious are fine plants for cutting. The white
is specially useful in every way. Gloxinia-
flowered Foxgloves are very fine when well
grown. I had a plant of the white variety 7 feet
3 inches high before a dozen bells had fallen,
the side spikes being as large as the wild Fox¬
glove. The bells of this kind are all round the
spike—a sandy loam rich in vegetable fibre suits
them best. The Carnation Poppies, sprung from
our native wild Corn Poppy, are splendid
flowers if sown in August. They grow 3 to
4 feet high, and produce perfectly double blooms
4 to 5 inches across ; they are of every shade of
red, rose, pink, cream, flesh, and reddish grey,
and laced or shaded with white. The Opium
Poppies are very showy annuals requiring to be
sown early. Papaver umbrosum is a showy
scarlet flower, also a hardy annual. These
Poppies all transplant badly even in a small
state—all require a rich, deep, well-manured
soil. The common Evening Primrose (CEnothera
biennis) isa useful plant for town gardens, coming
up from seed annually without trouble.
Lamarckiana is a fine variety of it. Yellow
Sweet Sultan produces beautiful flowers like
yellow silk and satin.

Very beautiful effects can be got with
climbers in Binall gardens, and there is con¬
siderable room for the display of taste in the
effective disposal of them. In every instance
the natural habit of the plants should be made
use of, they should never be nailed to walls or
tied to rigid supports in any stiff and formal
way. Where used to cover a wall, they should
be either allowed to run up a trellis in front of
the wall, or so trained that all the flowering
shoots can hang about in a negligent manner.
It is wonderful what a difference this makes ;
both foliage and flowers are greatly improved
thereby. Virginian Creepers and Ivies natu¬
rally attach themselves to walls, and do not,
therefore, require the same treatment. The
moment we alter the natural lines of growth of
a plant we destroy one of the principal elements
of its beauty. The Clematis family, the Honey¬
suckles, Tropeeolums, Convolvulus, Lathyruses,
Passion Flowers, and climbing Roses can all be
used in this way. It ruins them to nail them
tight to a wall, leaving the ugliness of that
treatment out of the question.

The spaces underneath and amongst trees are
always a difficulty in small gardens. Nothing
is found to grow there. The reason is that such
spots have never been treated in a rational
manner. The invariable instructions in garden¬
ing books have been to keep everything neat
and tidy; all dead leaves swept up as soon as
they fall. An instant’s thought will convince
anyone that this is the reverse of nature’s way.
In a natural wood all withered leaves lie and
rot. If we deprive the ground under trees of
the withered leaves we also deprive it of those
plants which grow under trees and live on the
withered leaves. We can sweep up the leaves,
but they should be rotted to mould, and then re¬
turned to the 8pot where they fell. We can then
grow Primroses and Primulas, Lily of the Valley,
Wood Lilies, Dog’s tooth Violets, Anemones of
many kinds, and terrestrial Orchids under the
trees; Spinea Aruncus, S. palmata, S. venusta,
S. Filipendula fl.-pl., Anemone japonica, A.
svlvestris, and Panther Lilies, in their partial
shade. Very shady spots can be filled with
Solomon’s Seal and Ferns. Every part of a
garden can be filled with healthy vegetation
except under Beech trees and under and amongst
evergreen trees and shrubs.

There are sometimes nooks in a garden which
are visible in winter but hidden in summer.
Thoso qan be made ornamental by planting
Vmoa^ whioh flower — v

fldnur# nudiflorum, F<

Digitized

Cydonia japonica, shrubs which flower in mild
winters, Daphne Cneorum, Wood Anemones,
Scillas, Crocuses, Snowdrops, Winter Aconites,
Adonis vernalis, Christmas Roses, and Hepa-
ticas ; the last two are evergreen, if properly
managed.

With regard to arrangement, all planting
should at first be experimental. So much de-

S ends on soil, weather, and climate, that no
efinite instruction could be given as to securing
a succession of flowering. I have had plants
flower together which in ordinary seasons would
have flowered six weeks apart. Oriental Poppies
usually flower in May. We cut the first blooms
this year for Easter and the last for Whit-
Sunday decorations. Some experience, there¬
fore, is necessary in every garden to avoid
hiding plants in flower by others which were
meant to succeed them. Established plants
flower earlier, as a rule, than newly planted
ones, and plants put out in autumn earlier than
those planted in spring. Cultivation has
also a great effect. In my last garden all
the vegetable crops were at least a fortnight
later than my next neighbour’s, the reason being
that his garden had been well cultivated for
fourteen years, while previous occupiers had
only scratched the surface of mine, and had
given it little or no manure. The best way,
therefore, is to plant first those things which
dislike disturbance, as thereby their effect is
secured at the earliest possible moment, and
try those things w'hich can be moved without
injury in various positions. By adding an
alteration here, and a finishing touch there, a
beautiful garden will be secured in a very few

er In mild winters, Jos- do
F<tf^h£a,^vir*<^ljn^ and bes

years.

If any plant does not thrive, never be satisfied
until you find the reason of it. Scarcely any
hardy plants bloom continuously ; they come
mostly from climates like our own, which have
winter as well as summer, although a few belong
to climates where there is no frost; but even in
a comparatively small bed, and in the borders
of the small front plots of suburban villas, it is
easy to secure an almost continuous bloom,
extending over quite double the period bedding
plants will be in flower.

Suppose a narrow border 15 feet long and
4 feet wide under a low fence, wall, or railing.
Plant at intervals along the back of the border
clumps of Double Daffodils, clumps of Hepaticas,
and patches of Scilla sibirica, and between
these sow here and there, in the beginning of
September, patches of Sweet Peas.

In front of these plant Anemone apennina,
A. coronaria, and A. fulgens, and between these
Gladiolus nanus, G. Colvillei, and G. ramosus.
Leave spaces of 2 feet in this row, and in these
plant in April early flowering Chrysanthemums.
In front of these plant Pansies, border Pinks,
German Primroses and Polyanthuses, Spring
Tulips, and Poet’s Narcissus, with a patch
here and there of blue Nemophila sown in
September. Surface the edging with 'Btones or
sand, and plant it with Saxifraga Wallacei, S.
Burseriana, Achillea Clavennse, A. tomentosa,
Arabis albida variegata, Aubrietia Eyreii grandi-
flora, Silene alpestris, Silene maritima fl.-pl.,
Phlox Nelsoni, P. nivalis, and P. setacea
in variety, with here and there tufts of Iris
pumila and Iris olbiensis. Have Phlox Drum-
mondi and Indian Pinks ready to follow the
Tulips and Nemophila. In a season of little or
no frost the above planting will give a border
which will be in flower nearly the whole year.
The Sweet Peas can have some shoots trained for
ward to cover the spaces left by the Anemones.
Many other plantings might be suggested
equally suitable for small beds and borders,
although large beds give greater freedom and
variety, and the opportunity of making telling
masses of flower. The extreme ignorance
of hardy plants displayed by those who
still adhere to bedding is without doubt one
cause of that adherence. Only in a few first-
class nurseries can a good collection be seen,
and it would take a lifetime for the owner of a
small suburban garden to grow once all the
plants useful, leaving out of the question testing
their decorative capabilities. Only a very few
good things are at all likely to com'j under the
notice of the small amateur except in the pages
of Gardening. The London p *rks, at least,
are first rate examples of how rot to do it. The
first thing all possessor! of imsdl gardens should
do 1« to make themselves acquainted with tho
1 best hai iy plants, growing them In nursery beds.

Many can be raised from seed, and all but
novelties are as cheap as bedding plants. Those
which are suitable for working into decorative
beds will soon make themselves known. It
must be borne in mind, however, that nothing
in the way of bedding is worthy of the name of
gardening, or can ever be anything but an eye¬
sore to any one possessed of the slightest feeling
for or appreciation of the beauty of plants ana
flowers.

I hope these hints will be sufficient to show
amateurs the great mistake they make in having
anything to do with bedding plants. These
require to be kept ail winter, and propagated
in spring in properly constructed houses, which
are wholly out of the way of an amateur who
attends to his own garden with occasional help.

A small greenhouse and a few cold frames can
be used in a far more pleasant and profitable
way than in attempting to keep bedding-plants.

few nearly hardy plants such as silvery
Centaureas and Echeverias can be kept, and
Geraniums -cut back in the autumn and just
kept alive all winter will help the late summer
bloom, and give a far finer show of flowers than
treated as bedders. There is nothing to be
said against bedding plants as plants, further
than that, being tender, they are troublesome
to grow and keep, and therefore they should
only be used as auxiliaries. It is the bedding,
the arranging them in rows and patterns, and
the clipping and pinching of them to keep
those rows and patterns true, which shows such
utter blind ness to the beauty of plants and flowers.
Masses of colour which do not change for the
whole season might be excusable as a back¬
ground to the year’s floral panorama, but to
bring bedding into the foreground of a garden,
and thrust the ever-changing beauty of hardy
flowers into the background, is exactly like
allowing the beauty of a fine orchestral
symphony to be drowned by a monotonous
clatter of drums and cymbals. Even the
modified bedding now seen in parks and large
gardens, in which the plants are allowed to
grow freely, is spoiled by the mechanical and
childish arrangement, and would be im¬
measurably improved if the plants were grouped
in an informal manner in a few large beds
instead of being grown in dozens of small ones.
Hardy plants are quite capable of producing
gardens which will please every variety of taste,
except, perhaps, that mechanical order of genius
to whom straightness and neatness are every¬
thing, and whose eye is offended by the slightest
deviation from a formal and mechanical outline.

Flowers such as Geraniums, which have no
particular beauty of flower beyond brilliant
colour, are properly placed when planted in the
distant parts of a garden, as a little distance
always enhances the brilliancy of a patch of
pure colour in the open air. Formal beds are
the worst possible foreground to a small villa.
A small house should imitate the style of an
old parsonage or farmhouse, and should be sur¬
rounded by a large garden. Our modem
suburban villa is an abortion and an eyesore in
every way; but, speaking of it as an architectural
object, the proper way to treat it is to disguise
and contrast its stiff lines with negligent-
growing climbers. That is how villas are treated
in Italy, where the villa originated. Vines and
creepers hang in festoons, hiding and contrast¬
ing with the architectural lines. To introduce
further stiffness and formality in front of such
villainous architectural compositions as most of
our suburban small houses are is only adding
bad to worse. J. D.

Failure of Phloxes. — If “ Sicnarf’s ”
garden is in any of the counties which, like
Kent and Norfolk, have been exposed to
severe drought, that is the reason his Phloxes
failed. 1 have grown the American Phloxes
for the last sixteen years in my borders,
which are always well dug and well manured
during the winter, and all the herbaceous plants,
which, like the Phloxes, Campanulas, and
Pentstemons, grow well in strong soils, are so
flourishing as to excite the envy of my neigh¬
bours ; but I have noticed the Phloxes invariably
go off if July proves very hot and dry. My

g arden is far too large for systematic watering ;
ut I have at times selected the clump ox
Phloxes, and kept it watered to try the effect,
and have alway* found ijb wae moisture they
required to keep them In good qondition. As a
pr&otioftl gardener of forty yeart’jeupcrfnpfy \

UftB AN A-CHAMPAIGN

Sept. 6, 1884.]

GARDENING ILL USTR»4 TED

811

may say that the reasons so many amateurs fail
with hardy plants are, first—they see a plant in
a friend's garden, exclaim, 41 What a love of a
flower ! is it hardy?” The reply is, “ Quite bo
with us.” Then a slip is requested, is thrust
into the ground, and, being 44 hardy,” left to
take care of itself. The next year the plant has
probably disappeared, and on inquiry proves
only “hardy ’ in certain climates and soils.
Secondly—amateurs greatly neglect the scrip¬
ture precept, 44 Dig it about and dung it.” Our
soil is no unexhausted virgin soil, and, if con¬
tinuity of bloom is required, constant renewal in
the shape of manure and leaf-mould is absolutely
necessary. I have practical experience of the
difference in the growth of hardy plants where
kept in well-dug and well-manured borders and
grown in odd corners without due renewal of
the soil ; for instance, when I came here sixteen
years ago I planted such things as Lilium
croceum, Hemerocallis flava, and Saxifraga
crassifolia in the shrubbery and wood, and, whilst
they only exist without increasing, the same
plants in the borders multiply so fast we have
continually to take them up and give them
away, or get rid of them somehow. I am quite
aware that my experience is diametrically
opposed to 44 J. D.’s” precepts, but then I go
for practice not for theory, and therefore
state what I know to be successful practice, at
least, in heavy soil. I may add that, except
when the ground is covered with snow, there
are always some flowers in the garden.—
A. B. T., East Anglia.

Yellow Water Lily (Nuphar lutea) —
Next to the white Water Lily (Nymphea alba),
this is one of our most important aouatic plants.
It succeeds well in deep or shallow ponds or
rivers, but it should never be allowed to get too

it clings so closely to walls as to need no nailing,
and when grown in full sunlight the tints
assumed by the leaves are intensely bright.
Among what may be called every body’s flowers
may be mentioned single Dahlias ; these look
well both in masses and in the form of single
specimens. When pegged down flat they send
up quantities of brilliant flowers that defy the
effects of such rains as would tarnish and spoil
flowers of less substance of petal. Some of the
early-flowering Pompone Chrysanthemums, such
as the well-known variety called Model, are now
in good condition, and summer-flowering Chry¬
santhemums, or Marguerites, are still in great
beauty. Stocks, Pentstemons, Antirrhinums,
and herbaceous Phloxes keep on flowering
most persistently ; the heavy rains that have
washed the flowers off ordinary bedding plants
do not seem to hurt the hardy section ; in fact,
the more growth they make the more flowers
they produce, and, os long as sharp frost keeps
off, a good supply of flowers will be procurable
in gardens where plants of the kinds just
alluded to are grown in Quantity. Not the
least welcome, too, are border Cloves and Car¬
nations, young plants of which are now sending
up a goodly show of flower-spikes, and their
flowers are exceptionally large and fragrant.—J.

11851.— Dividing plants.— The best time
to divide Phloxes and other hardy flowers is
early in October where the soil is light, and
rather earlier in the case of heavy moisture¬
holding soils. The great heat of summer should
pass before touching them, but the work Bhould
not be delayed until the ground becomes cold, as
then not many new roots are made before
winter arrives. Perhaps the Lilies of the
Valley are suffering from want of food. When
winter comes give them a top-dressing of rotten

The Yellow Water Lily (Nuphar lutea).

much crowded. The flowers appear throughout
the summer, they are much smaller than those
of the white Water Lily, and rise a little above
the surface of the water. Autumn or spring are
good seasons in which to plant. A few spade¬
fuls of good soil should be given for a start if
possible. It is a good plan to plant in an old
basket or hamper filled with good soil, and then
sink the whole in the water.

Hardy autumn-flowering plants.—
Conspicuous amongst these, especially in the
Isle of Wight, are the hardy Fuchsias belonging
to the small-flowered section, such as F. gracilis
and F. Riccartoni. Of these I have lately seen
very large bushes, covered with thousands of
blossoms, that withstand rain better than
flowers of a more erect habit of growth. Some
of the ordinary greenhouse Fuchsias with
medium-sized flowers, like Madame Cornelisson,
Guiding Star, and other old favourites, also
flourish in the Isle of Wight, forming large
bushes, which in autumn are very effective.
Hydrangeas, too, with large pink heads, make
fine objects in mixed beds and borders, and also
in the shape of groups on Grass. Pampas Grass,
with its elegant plumes, and Tritoma Uvaria
form striking background plants. Perhaps the
best, and certainly the most popular, of
autumnal flowers is Anemone japonica, both
pink and white, large clumps of which are very
* Beautiful; and the same may be said of the New
Zealand Veronicas of various sorts now in full
bloom. Myrtles, covered with innumerable
little heads of white flowers, likewise help to
make gardens in the Isle of Wight and on the
south coast gay ; and amongst plants of humbler
growth SchizoBtylis coccinea, with its brilliant
■pikes of GladiolUB-like flowers, is very striking
Mrhen seen in the shape of good-sized clumps,
^■unoiint . fine-foil
With Ampelopsis

manure or of leaf-soil, and in the growing time
water copiously now and then in dry weather.
-J. C. B.

11897.— Passion Flower not blooming.
—My Passion Flower is still in splendid bloom,
has been so for nearly three months. 1 bought
it three years ago from a florist to screen a
window, but found it did not come on well. I
have a very small yard to my house, so I got a
few pails of earth brought in from a field, and made
a bed, in which I planted my Passion Flower.
This was two years since ; it now reaches nearly
to the top of the house, which is two stories
high. It is planted due east.—S. D.

11859.— Cutting back Clematises.— It
is quite right to cut back Clematises of the Jack-
manni ana Viticella sections every year, as they
then break stronger, and consequently flower
finer and more continuously than they do if the
shoots are left entire. There is also this advan¬
tage in pruning back hard, the lower portion of
a trellis or wall can be better furnished by
means of the laterals which spring from the
main shoots. None of the white Clematises in
cultivation at the present time are sufficiently
vigorous and hardy to be of much use ; they
come from lanuginosa, which is a tender kind.
Mr. Noble, of Bagshot, Surrey, has, however,
lately exhibited a white Jackmanni, and this
ought to fill the void. Have you tried Viticella
rubra grandiflora ? This has bright claret red
flowers, not so large as Jackmanni, but very
numerously produced. It is a most effective
variety, and, st ange to say, but little grown.—
J. C. B.

11842.— Transplanting Carnations.— The bejrin-
ninjf of September is * irood time, as then the plants
become well established by winter. Be careful not to
Injure the roots, and that they do not Infcome dry Wfore
putting them in the new soil. At the beginning of the
winter mulch them with 2 or 3 inches of rotten manure of
leaf-toil or somethin* similar.—J. C. B.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 301 .)

The Early Peach House.

When well grown and well ripened few things
are superior to a good Peach, and with the aid
of glass it is not a difficult matter to keep up a
succession from May till October. The old-
fashioned lean-to is still the most useful form of
house for early forcing, as well as the most
economical. A good-sized house would be about
30 feet to 40 feet long, and from 10 feet to
18 feet wide ; height of back wall about 15 feet,
and height of front to gutter 5 feet, the upper

3 feet of the front to De glass. The ventila¬
tion must be ample, and should include open¬
ings near the apex of the roof, and also near the
ground line. It is very desirable to secure
plenty of openings for changing the air, even
though all may not be required except in very
hot weather. Good Peaches and Nectarines
have been grown trained in various ways, with
the trellises ranged at different angles and at
varying distances from the glass. I had for a
number of years the management of a house
where the trees in front were trained on a flat
trellis, and they grew and bore well, and the
trees on the back wall had full light. If the
trellis is fixed near the glass the back wall is too
much shaded for the trees to do well. To make
the best use of the early house the front trellis
Bhould be half circular, and should be far enough
from the glass and from the back wall to permit
light enough to reach the back trees to fiavour
and colour the fruit; or else the trellis should
be fixed to the roof, and about a foot from it,
reaching through to the back wall, utilising
the back wall for the growth of Oranges
or Lemons, or something that will produce
flowers for cutting. One advantage of
having a shorter trellis in front and a set of
trees on the back wall, is the greater variety
which mav be planted. A Peach tree, where
it does well, will cover an immense surface, and
bear many dozens of fruit, but if the family is
small this is not an unmixed good. No one
cares to have 20 or 30 dozens of Peaches ripe at
once. It is more useful to have trees of smaller
size, producing a greater variety of fruit of a
succesaional character. Of course the expedient
of budding several sorts on one tree may be
adopted, but I still think it is better to have
them separate. Having decided how the trees
are to be trained and fixed to the trellis, the
next business is to prepare the border, which
should consist of maiden loam from an old
pasture if possible. I know there is often a
great difficulty in obtaining this. If it has to
oe purchased there may be some excuse if one
hesitates at the expense, but if it can be had at
home for the digging I think it is very short¬
sighted policy to refuse it. If the old soil
excavated is carted to the place from which the
turf has been cut, levelled down, and sown
thickly with Grass seeds, as good if not a
better sward will be obtained in two or three
years, and the object is worth some little
sacrifice. The border should be excavated
about 3 feet deep, the necessary drain should be
run along the front, and, if the sub-soil is bad,

4 or 5 inches of concrete should be placed in the
bottom. When that has had time to get
dry and firm, the border may be made—about
2£ feet will be a good depth for the soil, and (1
inches or more in damp situations may be above
the ground level. The front wall of the house
should be built on arches. The border should
be made in autumn, and the trees planted as
soon as the soil has had time to settle. If
bearing trees can be lifted from the walls at
home I should prefer them to those purchased,
and a crop can be had the first year.
If lifted carefully and planted early in autumn,
there will be no difficulty in accomplishing this.
If young trees have to be purchased in order
to furnish the house quickly, dwarfs and
riders or standards may be planted alternately.
If the soil is maiden loam no manure should be
added. When more support is needed, liquid
manure can be given, or artificial stimulants
may be employed. If the border is made too
rich the trees make gross wood, which fails to
ripen, and the blossoms fall instead of setting.
When this occurs the roots of the trees should
be lifted in autumn to give them the requisite
chietejk. During the first year lira youug shoots
should be laid in regularly, about 6 inches

URBANA-CHAMPAIGU

312

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 6, 1884.

apart, pinching back laterals to one leaf. In
some cases the laterals when well placed may
be laid in to furnish the trellis. A genial
atmosphere should be maintained, and the
foliage must be kept clean and free from
insects, red spider being most to be dreaded,
especially if hot weather sets in, and the atmo¬
sphere of the house be kept too dry. As autumn
approaches everything possible should be done
to induce early ripening without giving any
decided check. A free ventilation night and
day will conduce to this—less water will be re¬
quired at the roots, but anything approaching
absolute dryness must not occur. When growth
has ceased, and the young wood is putting on
the red tint some cultivators so much like to
see, the lights, if it be convenient, may be taken
off, and a full exposure be given. This may not
always be possible, but it is a good plan, as giving
the trees a more perfect rest. This will complete
the first season’s work, and when the leaves fall
what little pruning is required should be done,
and the trees washed with Gishurst compound,
4 oz. to the gallon of water, applied with a
sponge to the small branches, drawing it care¬
fully with a forward motion only ; never back¬
wards, or some of the buds may be injured.
The thick old branches may be washed with a
brush. The pruning will consist in thinning
out branches where too thickly placed. When
the trees get older this must be done with a
fearless hand. If the wood is well ripened very
little shortening will be necessary ; and under
glass the Peach generally ripens all its wood,
therefore only the weakly parts of the branches
should be shortened a little, always cutting to a
wood bud.

Forcing the Peach.

If the preparatory work has been well done,
if the blossom buds are there, strong, and
healthy, and vigorous, nothing but gross mis¬
management can prevent a crop of fruit being
produced. To have ripe Peaches in May the
house should be closed for forcing early in
December. I need not say anything of the im¬
portance of cleanliness in the building itself, as
that should be a sine qud non in all fruit¬
growing houses. If the inside is not painted
the woodwork should all be scrubbed with soap
and water, and the walls lime-washed. No one
who will not take this trouble deserves success.
Insects are often troublesome in the best-
managed places, and to neglect the cleaning at
starting is to ignore the means placed in our
hands to get rid of the nuclei of some
of our troubles. There can be no safety
when forcing Peaches in extremes of tempera¬
ture, especially in the early stages. Too much
heat or excitement at any time before stoning
may make the fruit drop. The first fortnight
the house may be closed at night and ventilated
in the daytime when the thermometer rises
above 55degs. The borders should be examined,
and if at all dry a good soaking of liquid manure,
with the chill taken off by adding warm water,
should be given, and the examination of the
border must not be a partial one, for dry spots,
especially near the trees, may exist when other
parts of the border may be quite moist. Stirring
up the surface with a fork will disclose these
inequalities, and, at the same time, a top-dress¬
ing of turfy loam, with a little of some artificial
fertiliser mixed with it, will be beneficial, and
will add force to the trees and size to the fruit.
Even when the trees are apparently in no urgent
need this assistance is desirable; in fact, we
should not wait for this urgent need to arise.
The true and right course in dealing with fruit
trees is to anticipate their wants, and they will
then always be in condition to do all that can
reasonably be required of them without loss of
vigour. Fires should be lighted at the end of a
fortnight, and forcing should go steadily and
regularly on ; but the slower and steadier the
start the stronger the blossom buds will break.
A night temperature of 45 degs. will be high
enough until the blossoms begin to expand;
then it maybe advanced to 50 degs. or 52degs.,
with an increase of 10 degs. in the daytime, or
more if the sun shines. When the Peaches are
set the temperature may be raised a little,
say to from 55 degs. to 58 degs. at night. With
the most careful stoking it is possible a sudden
change of wind may cause the thermometer to
run up above these figures. When that is the
case a little air should be given to keep down

tiimnarofnra . in fnsvt- if o liuU __

temperature ; in fact, if a little ventih
the ground line could/be\ep4 <

ion near
^with¬

out causing a draught, it would be beneficial.
In tying the branches of the trees to the wires
room must be left to swell, especially in the case
of young trees whose growth is rapid. Tight
ligatures are often injurious by cutting the
bark, and such injuries will, if the predis¬
position exists, produce gumming. During the
time the buds are swelling the syringe, with a
fine rose, should be used twice a day, morning
and afternoon, to dew over the trees, letting it
fall in the form of very fine spray. Heavy
syringing is not required at the dull season, as
saturated borders are dangerous, and on dull,
cold days less moisture will be needed. When the
blossoms expand a buoyant atmosphere must be
created by a perfect state of ventilation, with
just enough artificial heat and a limited amount
of moisture. Usually there is no difficulty in

S etting the blossoms to set under such con-
itions, but there are various ways of dissemi¬
nating the pollen of the flowers in the fertilisa¬
tion of the blossoms of Peaches, and so important
is the crop that even if it be necessary to use
the camel’s-hair pencil to each individual
blossom it should be done. If the weather
outside is bright and sunny, and the air conse¬
quently dry, the flowers will set more freely
than when the atmosphere outside is damp.
Very frequently, under the former condition, the
blossoms will set well with only a shaking of
the trellis in the middle of the day when
the flowers are dry. The syringe, too,
in judicious hands has during a week or two of
bright weather been brought to bear with
advantage, effectually scattering the pollen
grains, and causing the fruit to set thickly ; but
the brisk, buoyant atmosphere is indispensable.
When the blossoms are well set, the damping
morning and afternoon may take place again on
fine days, and as soon as the quality and charac¬
ter of the young shoots can be fairly made out,
The Disbudding

May begin, removing first all forerights,
taking care in thinning the side shoots to leave
one at the base to keep up the supply of young
wood in the tree, and a leader to draw up the
sap, and for the purpose of extension. Some¬
times in the case of open air trees more wood is
left for a time than is needed, for the sake of
the shelter afforded ; but under glass this is not
required, and with trees in vigorous health the
disbudding need not be lingered over, but may
be done promptly. When Peaches set thickly
some of the young fruits must be thinned off
early ; but the final thinning need not be given,
unless we are quite sure of our crop, till the
stoning is finished. Of course, where the trees
behave themselves, leaving more fruits on than
are intended to remain seems wrong in principle,
and the practice can only be defended because in
the case of a tree which casts its fruit it is impos¬
sible to tell which fruit will fall and which will
not, till after the critical period of stoning is
over. After the stone is formed in the fruit if
necessary more pressure in the shape of addi¬
tional heat may be given, but from 60 degs. to
63 degs. of night temperature should be the maxi¬
mum. Tying in the young wood is a detail the
necessity for which is so self-evident that one
need scarcely refer to it here. The syringing
should be continued in suitable weather till the
fruit begins to colour, especially if there are any
signs of red spider, and the supply of water
to the roots, in which some stimulant
is dissolved, should be equal to the trees’ wants,
and the water should always have the chill
taken off. It is impossible to say what should
constitute a crop of fruit, as the burden should
be made about equal to strength and capacity.
Some cultivators, when very fine fruit are re¬
quired, content themselves with one fruit to the
square foot, others hang them on much closer.
But this is a question for individual decision.
I may say here that firmness of root run is
beneficial to all stone fruits. If the border has
been rightly constructed it can hardly get too
firm, although, of course, it should not be
trodden when wet.

To Give Flavour

There must be abundant ventilation night
and day during the ripening period. If Peaches

f rown under glass do not possess the full
avour and lusciousness which a good Peach
should possess the cause is nine times out of
ten deficient ventilation, with perhaps a wet,
sour state of border. As soon as the fruits begin
to put on colour, and to take the last swelling,
the syringing may cease, and no more water, if

the trees are planted in the border, will be re¬
quired at the roots. Early in the career of the
fruit steps should be taken to give it the
fullest exposure to light; the importance of this
should never be lost sight of. In thinning the
fruits, only those situated on the upper side of
the trellis should be left. Again, during the
summer management and training the
necessity for the full exposure of the fruit
should be provided for, and later on, if
necessary, a leaf or two, if they over¬
shadow fruits near, should be removed.
In gathering the fruit, the soft, easily-damaged
character of the fruit should be considered.
When near ripe the least pinch or bruise leaves
a black spot in the delicate flesh of the Peach.
The fruits should be gathered two or three days
before they are quite ripe, and be placed in a
cool room to finish off. When gathering the
fruit from the tree, place the hand over the
fruit so that the tips of the fingers clasp it at
the base, and bring a gentle pressure there to
dislodge it from the stalk. If a gentle pressure
does not suffice, leave that particular fruit a
day longer. When the fruits are ripening they
should be looked over daily, and the ripest
gathered. If they fall, even when nets are
placed to receive them, they often get injured.
When the fruits are all gathered throw the
house open by the removal of the lights if pos¬
sible—at any rate all the air possible should be
given to complete the ripening of the wood. At
the same time the syringe should be brought
into requisition again to keep the foliage clean
and healthy as loDg as possible, in order that
the leaves may die off naturally, and not be
forced off prematurely by red spider.

Varieties for Early Pe'.ch House.

Hale’s Early, a highly-coloured and good-
flavoured American variety, whose merits
have been well tested in this country ; Royal
George, a good old forcing kind ; Early York,
this is also a good old sort; Noblesse, a well-
known, pale-skinned Peach, of excellent flavour.
In order to give variety and to prolong the
season it is often desirable to plant a rather late
kind or two in the early house. W nen none but
early kinds are planted there is a glut for a fort¬
night or so, and then a scarcity till the next
house comes in, but with one or two trees of
later kinds planted, this difficulty will be
removed. Prince of Wales and Condor are two
good varieties for planting in the early house to
prolong the season. There should also be a
proportion of Nectarines planted, though the
tastes and wishes of the proprietor should be
considered in this respect. Unless there should
be some reason to the contrary a house contain¬
ing six trees should have two of them Nectarines.
Lord Napier, Pitmaston Orange, and the Pine
Apple are good Nectarines. The Elruge also
forces well, and is a free bearer, the tree
possessing a hardy constitution. E. Hoeday.

VEGETABLES.

Sowing Cauliflower.— It may be well to again
remind owners of small gardens that the necessity for
sowing Cauliflower at this season haS passed away! and
with it the trouble of hand-glasses, frames, &c., for the
reception of the plants during winter. The small early
Cauliflower recently introduced by several Anns will, if
sown in a frame on a leaf bed during February, come in
newly a fortnight before autumn-sown Early London.—

Earthing up Celery. —We all seem to have
different ways of doing things. My way of
earthing up Celery, or rather preparing for that
operation, is to tie up the plants some long time
before any soil is put to them. This support to
the leaves causes a more upright growth and
keeps them together, when tne earthing up can
be done easily and quickly without any of the
soil getting into the hearts of the plants.
Instead of cutting away the ties and removing
them, we leave them on. They rot off quite soon
enough, and if they do not decay it matters little,
as Celery cannot well be held too closely together
to bleach and keep out the wet. The soiling up
piecemeal, as is practised by many, is, I think,
a mistake, as the plants require much water all
the time they are growing, and it is impossible
to give them this after they are earthed without
washing some of it in amongst the leaves, and
that either causes them to rot or cripples the
hearts.—J. S.

Early Tomatoes. — In order to have
Tomatoes early in April next year, the best way
is to take cuttings from a good variety during
this cr next month, and grew the plants on in a

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Sept. 6, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

313

temperature of not less than 55 degs. all through
the winter months. After the new year comes
in the heat should be increased to 60 degs. at
night. Put each cutting in the centre of a
3-inch pot, and as soon as these small pots are
filled with roots shift as may be required. They
will fruit well in 12-inch pots; we never use
larger for them. They like very rich compost,
and to be surface-dressed occasionally with
some rich manure. The question as to the best
variety to grow is also important. The best
way, perhaps, is to obtain a good dwarf-
growing, free-fruiting sort, and then perpetuate
it by cuttings. Notwithstanding all that has
been said about new sorts, there is as yet no
better variety than the Old Red, as it is called.
One of the best market growers told me the
other day that he had tried most of the new
kinds in comparison with it, and from a given
space he obtained a third more weight of fruit
from the Old Red than from the others. For
our own use I grow a variety called Trentham
Fillbasket. I had a packet of seeds of it when
it was first sent out, and was so pleased with it
that I have ever since kept up the same stock
by means of cuttings. One of the best seedling
forms was selected, the fruits of which are of
medium size and almost smooth. It is of a more
perpetual bearing character than any other sort
known to me, and is withal very early.—J.

Potatoes and other early vegetable crops in
frames. The end of March is early enough to
sow the first seed in the open ground, and from
then onwards a little seed should be put in
every three weeks until the end of September.
This will keep up a constant succession of the
finest produce. The last sowing in the end of
September will not produce plants of any ser¬
vice that year, but they will winter in the open
air if mild, or, better still, under a little pro¬
tection, and if planted in a good position in
February or March they will produce useful
heads before the spring-sown ones are ready for
use. Stanstead Park and All the Year Round
are two good varieties for sowing at present.
Besides these the French have also some excel¬
lent sorts, of which that called Bossin’s Cabbage
Lettuce, a large growing kind sent out by
Messrs. Vilmorin, is one of the finest.

General culture. — This is very simple.
Thev will grow anywhere in a rich soil and un¬
shaded position. It is hardly ever necessary
to plant a very large quarter of them in any
private garden, as small patches coming in in
succession are the most acceptable. Winter
crops do best on south borders, and when the
weather is very severe a quantity should be
lifted and planted in frames or under hand-
lights, or protectors may be put over them
where they stand. J. M.

CABBAGE LETTUCES.

Op the two sections of Lettuce commonly culti¬
vated—the Cabbage and Cos—some prefer the
latter ; but I think the majority of growers are
in favour of the former, because, as
a rule, it yields better returns than
tall-growing varieties. Some Cos
Lettuces grow tall and produce a
quantity of leaves, but they do not
incurve or blanch naturally; they
have to be drawn together and tied
at top in order to blanch the centre
and make them good for food, while
the Cabbage varieties, if well grown,
will turn in and fold their leaves
over each other until they become
quite firm and beautifully blanched
and tender in the middle. We have
no small growing Cos Lettuces ;
everyone of them will run up to
about 1 foot in height, and they
furnish no great quantity of eatable
matter until they are a good width ;
therefore they occupy a good deal of
space. Not so Cabbage sorts. There
are many—of which Tom Thumb may be taken
as the type—which do not grow more than 4
inches in height, and a large number of little
cricket-ball-like heads are produced on a small
area. Cabbage Lettuces are therefore the most
valuable for winter, as they can be conveniently
accommodated in shallow frames or hand-
lights, and, apart from this, they deserve being
grown all the year round, as their firm, crisp,
blanched heads are of great value in salads. Of

Varieties there are many, some small compact
growers, others much larger, the latter being
principally adapted for summer culture. Sum¬
mer-hill and Marvel are two of the largest and
finest of all Cabbage Lettuces. Early Paris
Market is a very fine spring kind. All the
Year Round is what its name implies—a good
sort for summer or winter. Stanstead Park and
Hardy Green Hammersmith are very hardy and
excellent for winter.

Lettuce seed may be sown from February
till September. The first should be sown in
pots or boxes, and be allowed to germinate and
grow for a time in a little heat. A pinch of
seed will produce a great many plants, and, as
a rule, a 6-inch or 8-inch pot full of young plants
in spring will be found sufficient to make a nice
little plantation. In fact, I would not recom¬
mend large quantities of seed to be sown in
February or March, as plants raised then do not
remain very long fit for use, but often seed pre¬
maturely ; consequently small quantities raised
frequently are the most satisfactory. The seed
will germinate in any ordinary temperature, and it
is an advantage to keep the young plants up
near the glass, as when spindly they are useless.
The young plants should be transplanted from
the seed-box, pot, or bed before they become
too crowded, and early in spring a special
frame or two may he^et apart fot them, or
%they ppoajf ; be jjjrow^to of nl^ji je^*etween

Good late Peas. —Two rows of Ne Plus
Ultra Pea sown on the 7th of June, and the
final sowing on the 20th, each 35 yards long,
will give me Peas in abundance until the frost

cuts them off. At least this Pea has never

Bossin’s Cabbage Lettuce.

failed to do so if sown on the above date for a
number of years, and present appearances are all
in its favour. I generally stop the haulm with
a “Dunse” switch hook when it reaches the
top of the stakes, which are from 5 feet 6 inches
to 6 feet high. This stopping gives better filled
and larger pods, and they are not so trouble¬
some to gather, or the plants so liable to be
blown over. I agree with all that has been said
in favour of this Pea, but cannot allow anything
that has been said against it to alter my
judgment as to its real merit as a late season
variety. No Pea that I have tried bears so
well at the end of the season, or can sur

pass it in colour and flavour during the

months of September and October. Some
few years ago, after a bad season for

seed-saving, I could not procure a sufficient

quantity of Veitch’s Perfection. I was recom¬
mended to try Criterion as a substitute. If I
regretted the scarcity of Veitch’s Perfection at
the time, I am pleased that the circumstance
made me acquainted with this sterling variety,
which I have not failed to grow from that time
to this for gathering in July and August. It
has all the good qualities of Ne Plus Ultra
(which it resembles very much when cooked)
without its drawback—viz., height, growing at
no time more than 5 feet high, and bearing
within 18 inches of the ground (near enough for
tall people to gather) a prodigious crop of well-
filled pods of the best quality and colour. When
served at table it is first-rate, and always gives
great satisfaction. Late Peas are generally
attacked with mildew, which is the case now
after the three weeks’ dry weather that we have
just passed through. I find the following an
excellent remedy : 1 pound of sulphur and 1
pound of lime boiled, then strained into 20
gallons of water, and applied with the garden
engine. Once is generally sufficient.—W. A.

ROSES.

Rose outtings. —Tea Roses may be rooted
all the year round ; but there are three seasons
or rather conditions of the plant in which
Hybrid Perpetuals may be rooted with most
certainty. These are the end of June, the end
of September, and from the middle of October
to the middle of November, inclusive. The first
and the last batch of cuttings to be rooted in
the open air, and the middle lot in bottom heat;
place the first lot in sandy soil on a north or
east border and the last on a south or west
border. These are to be inserted with a heel,
and cannot be rammed in too firmly. September
cuttings succeed best placed on a gentle hot¬
bed, which can be covered with glass and frost
excluded with mats in the winter. About a
month after insertion these cuttings will be
found callused, and from that period they may
be gently urged to become plants by being
sheltered from all extremes of temperature
approaching to frost.—D.

Niphetos Rose. — In houses and on
warm walls this has been very truthfully de¬
scribed by one authority as a Magnolia-like
Rose. The comparison is as apt as it is
happy, and we have but to fancy a Magnolia
granaiflora reduced in size and grown into
a double flower to realise the stately, wax¬
like character of the Niphetos Rose. The white
has often that dash of lemon in it that is also a
characteristic of the Magnolia. The Niphetos
is, however, the more perfect and useful when
it is white as the driven snow, as its name
imports. And yet, though few, if any, have
noticed it, something like a distinct charm is
added to this most perfect Rose when a few of
the outer or enwrapping petals are suffused
with pink, and occasionally with a deeper tint
approaching crimson. This is generally con¬
fined to the upper ends of the surface petals, and
is all the more telling in contrast with the
mountains of snow underneath. And truly the
petals on petals ad in finitum , piled one upon
another in such - grand masses, almost deserve
the name of snow mountains. The form may
be best described as classical, there being such
a chaste touch and perfect finish about the
exquisite shape of this fine Rose either in bud
or when more fully expanded. Perhaps it
is the purity of its whiteness and the per¬
fection of its exquisite form that gives the
finishing touches of grace and beauty to this
most distinct and beautiful Rose. One thing,
however, it nearly lacketh—that is, fragrance.
Its scent is mild at the strongest, though pleasant
and also distinct, having that suspicion of sweet
air and fresh milk that reveal themselves in

g eater fulness in some other Roses, notably
>ule de Neige. Niphetos is generally de¬
scribed as of vigorous growth ; I do not find it
so. To have described each shoot as terminat¬
ing in flowers, and these flower-shoots as re¬
fusing to push growing shoots, would have been
nearer to our experience. Exceptional cases
may be met with, out, as a rule, Niphetos is by
no means the Rose [to cover a roof, rafter, or
wall rapidly. The pronounced character of its
floriferousness militates against it and is in in¬
verse ratio to its growing power. Even cutting
back hard does not always obtain the vigorous
growing shoots desiderated ; but with the hope
of thus obtaining fresh material for filling
spaces and clothing w r all or roof areas, as well as
for cultural reasons, NiphetoB should be grown on
its own roots. A lighter compost than that
given to other Roses seems to suit Nephetos ;
and, while it will grow fairly well in ordinary
compost, it grows more freely in one containing
a liberal percentage of leaf-mould or peat.
With healthy well-established plants in a house
heated so as to command a temperature of from
55 degs. to 65 degs. all the year round, Niphetos
alone will well-nigh solve the problem of a fresh
Rose bud in flower every day throughout the
year. To ensure this, however, every bud or bloom
should be cut as soon as perfect, and the cutting
back of the shoot or otherwise be attended to
at the time of cutting. Nothing assists continuous
blooming like this perpetual pruning. On the
open wall Niphetos should be protected in winter,
and seldom flowers freely more than once in the
season. The outer petals are also much more
suffused with : colour out of doors than in. So
marked is the difference, that indoors nearly
all the flowers will bs spotlessly white ; out of

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

314

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[SErr. 6 , 1884 .

doors the majority may be stained with pink.
The most magnificent flowers of the Niphetos
are, however, generally gathered from the open
air. Hence, whenever space can be found on a
warm south or west wall, part of it should be
devoted to the Niphetos Rose, for no Rose is
more enjoyable in the garden, few or none
more valuable for bouquets, wreaths, the
furnishing of vases, &c. Nor in the latter con¬
nection must the very superior foliage of
Niphetos be forgotten. The leaves are large
and smooth, and go admirably with the
blooms. The flowers match admirably with
Gardenias, Tuberoses, white Lapagerias, Or¬
chids, Stephanotis in wreaths and bouquets ; in
fact, Niphetos Rose is strong enough to hold its
own with any flowers however choice, and can
afford to give a little support when and where
needful to the best of them. Medium-sized, half-
opened flowers are also the most perfect of
button-holes. —D.

Banksian Roses —These being so nearly
evergreen are admirably suited for walls or for
any other position where a large space has to be
quickly covered. A rather large space for the
roots is necessary, and the better the soil is the
faster they grow ; but experience shows that an
elaborate preparation of the soil is unnecessary.
With 2 feet in depth of fairly good earth, and
proportionate space, these Roses will grow for
many years in a satisfactory manner. To grow
them successfully they require a height of from
10 to 16 feet, and proportionate room on each
side for the development of the branches.
When dealing with young plants no pruning is
necessary; they all must be either nailed or
tied in, but when they have filled their allotted
space the treatment may be altered. In our
strong soil this Rose grows most luxuriantly,
and, in order to keep the growth within reason¬
able limits, we get tne hedge-shears and clip it
in about the end of June, but we should not
think of doing so later. If we did we should
expect to see it produce very few flowers next
year. The growth made after the end of June
has time to get ripened and sufficiently hardened
up to form embryo flower buds before winter
sets in. Such is our treatment of the Banksian
Rose, and there is certainly no room to find
any fault with the number of flowers which
it produces, for they are always abundant.
—J. H.

Rose La France. —There are but few, if any,
more useful Roses than this. It thrives either
on the Brier as a standard, or on the Manetti as
a dwarf plant, and it grows and flowers freely
in a pot on its own roots. However, I cannot
get it to grow so well as I could wish. As a
pot plant it is all that can be desired, though
R appears to require two or three years to
thoroughly establish itself. After that it is
capable of producing some splendid flowers if
gently forced, so as to come into flower about
the middle of April. Like many other varieties
this Rose is, as a rule, pruned much too severely
when grown as a standard. I find a little
shortening back of the longest branches, and
a little thinning out of the old wood, to be all
that is necessary. This Rose always gives us
two fidl crops of flowers. As soon as the first
is over the aead flowers are cut off, and the roots
receive a thorough soaking of manure water.
In six or seven weeks another crop of flowers
appears, very little inferior to the first. Its
merits in other respects are too well known to
require further comment.—J. C. C.

Slugs and snails. — “Blossom Free”
(page 302) has hit on the natural and most
effective way of clearing off slugs and snails—
viz., ducks; but he or she omits to mention
that for a few weeks before they become eatable
they begin to discriminate between the various
qualities of plants and take their midday siesta
on the finest roots of Carnations or the strongest
growing Mignonette. Also there is no allusion
to worms which ducks devour ad libitum. I
once turned some young ducks into my garden
on heavy soil, and, owing to their grabbing up
all the worms, my lawn became a swamp, and I
was glad to import fresh worms to do tne work
of drainage. To anyone having a garden on
any but the lightest of soil, who is thinking of
starting duck keeping, I would quote Punch’s
advice to those about Jo marry—“.Don’t.”—

j - a oViz«i by Google

FRUIT.

Select Gooseberries. — In selecting
Gooseberries attention should be paid to secure
varieties which will ripen in succession ; if that
is done, ripe fruit may be had fit for use for
upwards of three months at a time. Yellow
Sulphur is the earliest of all Gooseberries, and
Souter Johnny one of the latest; these two
should be included in all Gooseberry bush orders,
and the dozen should be made up as follows :
Red—Companion, Lord Derby, and Ironmonger;
yellow—Sulphur, Pilot, and Champagne ; green
—Jolly Angler, Keepsake, and Souter Johnny ;
white—Whitesmith, Nailer, and Transparent.
The largest of all Gooseberries is a variety
named London, but size is its chief recommenda¬
tion. Gooseberries are easily propagated by
means of cuttings taken off in winter, put in by
the heels, and planted out in spring, when they
soon root and make nice little bushes before the
end of the same season. The most satisfactory
bushes to purchase are three-year-old ones,
which will bear a fair crop the first season after
planting. They should be selected at once, and
should be sent home any time between November
and the end of February. When the leaves
have fallen they are not easily injured, and
they will take no harm through being out of the
soil for a week or so; nevertheless, no good
purpose is served by having them out of the
ground longer than is necessary. The ground
in which they have to grow should be well
prepared for their reception. A medium heavy
soil is best for them. If very light, some heavy
material should be added ; and if too much the
other way, light matter may be applied. Their
position should be an open one, as fine bushes
can never be produced under the shade of trees;
they should be put in 6 feet apart each way.
The stems should not be covered up more than
4 inches, and the soil should be made very firm
about the roots. After planting, a short stake
should be put in to support each bush. Each
winter afterwards they must be pruned, an
operation which may be done any time after
the leaves have fallen. As a rule we prune all
our bushes in February, and the operation is
mainly confined to thinning out the young
wood where too thick and shortening that re¬
maining. If the bushes once become too full of
wood the fruit soon becomes small. Branches
taken out are cut into three eyes from the old
wood, and they fruit freely on these spurs. The
other shoots which go to extend the tree are
left from 6 inches to 1 foot in length. The
latest Gooseberries are always gathered from
bushes trained on north walls, and all who
desire to have this favourite fruit in good con¬
dition up to the middle or end of September
should plant some bushes in similar positions. — C.

Taxi mulching for Strawberries. —
Some time ago a correspondent recommended
new tan from a tanyard as a mulching for
Strawberries, amongst its good qualities being
that of preventing slugs from getting to the fruit.
As I have a good many slugs in my garden,
which is a town one, I at some trouble obtained
a quantity, and placed it about 6 inches in width
from the roots of the plants and also between
them. I rested in my fancied security
until the fruit began to ripen, when I
found that it had been eaten by something.
As I found a beetle or two near one of the plants
I was inclined to credit that noctural visitor
with the theft. But I found at last the traces
of slugs left on the tan, and going out -with a
lantern found them crawling over the tan with
seeming ease, and eating my fruit. I do not
know what the experience of others has been,
but mine was certainly unfavourable to the tan,
for not only did it not prevent the slugs from
reaching the Strawberries, but it became the
propagating bed of a number of minute maggots,
not at all pleasant to associate with such a
fruit.—F.

Watering fruit tree borders. —Gar¬
deners with their multifarious duties are apt to
neglect fruit trees under glass directly the crops
are secured, forgetting that much really de¬
pends upon laying a good foundation for the
following season. It is during autumn that root
action is most brisk, but if owing to scarcity of
water or other causes—many of which are also
the result of scarcity of moisture—the foliage is
J lost prematurely ; not only will root action be
I greatly checked, but the buds may also be only

partially formed. I am thinking more especially
of Peach and Nectarine trees and Grape Vines,
when the latter are rooted in inside borders, than
of other subjects ; but the same remarks apply
to Figs, Plums, Cherries, Pears, and other
fruits, sometimes cultivated under glass.
Having once partially failed with Peaches and
Nectarines under glass owing to the majority of
the buds falling off in spring, this being the re¬
sult of neglect in watering during autumn and
early winter, I have ever since been very attentive
in regard to this matter. Directly our crops
are gathered the borders are very lightly
loosened, and then receive a thorough soaking
with diluted farmyard liquid manure. In the
case of any trees not long planted, or which may
be two vigorous, we give water only. Later on
the borders are frequently examined and watered
when at all dry, and even during the winter
months they are kept moist. The consequence
is w r e have healthy root action, and this in its
turn greatly contributes to the proper ripening
of the wood and the plumping of the buds. Our
Peach and Nectarine trees especially are in¬
variably covered every spring with bloom, and
this season, in spite of the late severe frosts, we
secured good crops even in unheated houses.
Others, whose trees did not flower 90 abundantly,
lost their principal blooms, and, there being
none to succeed them, partial failures were the
result—I say partial failures, but I could point
to at least two complete failures, and in both
cases those in charge admit that their trees
were blooming badly when the frosts were
experienced. Look, therefore, well to the
borders, and keep them in a moist state.—
Fruit Grower.

Denyer’s Victoria Plum seems the only
sort to be relied upon for a crop, for in a season
like the present, when Plums are a failure even
in the best Plum-growing districts, we hear of
the Victoria bearing heavy crops both upon
walls and standards. It is the only Plum here
that has borne a crop. The trees of Victoria
growing upon the walls of cottages in this
neighbourhood are producing abundant crops,
while all other sorts have failed. This sort
requires less pruning than most others, and
I nnd that it dislikes too hard pruning. Young
shoots should be laid in during the summer
pruning, and some of the old branches cut out
during winter.—W. C., Woking.

11883.—Moving fruit trees.— The best
time to move them will be as soon as the leaves
fall. All that there is to do is to carefully
work round the trees, beginning as far from
the stems as you think the roots are likely to
have travelled, and carefully lifting each one,
taking care that they do not get dry. Choose a
dry time, and, when planting afresh, tread the
soil in firmly around the roots. A mulch of
litter applied at the commencement of the
winter will be beneficial, and a good soaking of
water should be given in spring and summer
when the weather is hot and dry.—J. C. B.

11877.—Peaches fTom seed.— They cannot be relied
on to bear good fruit, os, although the new kinds are raised
in this way, a large percentage of the young plants come
wild. Encourage them to make strong growth, and bud
them when two years old. Peaches are not grafted.—
J. C. B.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

Andromeda arborea.—I have seen no
mention of this in the late notes on flowering
shrubs, though few are more beautiful, and it
was introduced 130 years ago. In the moun¬
tains of N. Carolina it may be called a tree, and
a splendid object it is in autumn, when the
large pinnate leaves shade from pink to dark
crimson, and every branch is tipped with long
racemes of snow-white, almond-scented bells.
Loudon calls it Lyonia; it is also called
Oxydendron arboreum. —Junia.

Pavia macrostachya.—I was glad to see this old
favourite mentioned in your issue of August 9th, but the
writer does not mention one of its chief recommendations,
viz., the sweet Lily-of-the-Valley-like odour of its numerous
spikes. Another peculiarity renders it necessary to choose
a special place for this shrub—the forest of suckers which
it sends up—all of which flower when about 2 feet high.—
Junia.

Seaside shrubs. —The beat shrubs for the seaahore
are undoubtedly the French Tamarisk and the common
Spindle tree. Wherever new gardens are being planted
within reach of the salt spray these are the shrubs used
for the outer belt. All round the south coast thev do well
even in the most exposed situations. Whore there is a
little shelter the shrubby New Zealand Speedwells also

g^oj^fid flower profuselyrfHj |_|_| N 01 S AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Sept. 6, 1884]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

315

INDOOR PLANTS.

A GRACEFUL TRAILER.

Planted out at one end of an old-fashioned
cold greenhouse, we have a plant which we call
—I know not for certain if quite rightly—

plants. If in small things we lose in grandeur,
we, in a general way, gain in grace. Simple
arrangements are generally the most effective
and pleasing, and with the wealth of material
now at command there need be no difficulty
experienced in furnishing even a small green¬
house in the natural style, so as to appear

Smilax tamnoides; it is a
general favourite, especially
just now when its glossy
leafage looks even more beau¬
tiful than at any other season,
owing to its being seen in
contrast with its elegant race¬
mes of sweet white flowers.

Although an old-established
plant in our garden, few know
what it is, but it is never¬
theless admired by all for its
peculiarly distinct and effec¬
tive character and extreme grace of habit.
We are always glad of its graceful sprays of
deep green leaves, which may at all times be
obtained in plenty, and their great powers of
endurance, when cut, add much to their use¬
fulness as indoor ornaments or for associating
with cut flowers in drawing-room vases. The
spray here figured is quite a short one, but it
well shows the distinct habit of growth and
peculiar form of inflorescence. Although but
rarely seen in gardens, this pretty evergreen
well deserves culture; indeed, culture is scarcely
needed—it seems grateful for a corner and a
little moist soil anywhere. L. L.

PICTURESQUE GREENHOUSE.

Why do some of your correspondents assume
that the natural grouping of plants under glass
can only have for result a parody on nature
when applied to small greenhouses ? It is not
nature in her wildest, but in her most tame
aspects that we wish to reproduce—for even in
the largest glasshouse ever constructed there is
not sufficient room to do more than this ; but
let anyone take a walk in some rural district
end see if he does not find many charming little
spots, which, if it were possible to transport
bodily, would look quite in place in a glasshouse
of very moderate dimensions. I have seen many
such. Half-a-dozen plants—none of them ex¬
ceeding 3 feet in height—will as truly exemplify
natural and picturesque grouping, |as lofty
P»ln> 8 , Hte^ly Bwan^vai^fbc ^l^bited

Flowering spray of Smilax tamnoides.

neither pretentious nor incongruous. Pigmy
mountains, diminutive bridges, and miniature
waterfalls are on a par with the miserable,
dwarfed trees of the Japanese, and the scroll
work beds of the London parks. But it is not
really a question of such puerilities as these,

but of representing some of nature’s varied
aspects as truthfully as possible, and this, I
contend, is of easy accomplishment. Let us, for
instance, take the corner of a small, cool green¬
house, which it is decided to permanently
embellish. You choose a dwarf-growing Bam¬
boo and a plant or two of Arundo Donax or
something similar, a strong growing Fern or
two, and you arrange these with an eye for
harmonious contrast, clothing the surface soil
with Lycopodium Moss, or something of a like
nature. Something similar to this may be seen
in many a green lane and shady road in this
country, although the materials may not be the
same. If “ P. R.’ ; prefers wooden stages and
earthenware flower pots to any form of natural
arrangement, there is, so far as he is concerned,
an end to the matter ; but that does not do
away with the fact that much of what we see
in nature may be copied in our glasshouses.
Allow me to ask your correspondent in what
way he prefers to see an
exotic climber grown. Is
it rambling under the roof,
throwing itself into grace¬
ful festoons, or planted in
a pot and trained stiffly on
a trellis? By the former
method we imitate nature,
in the latter we have her
controlled and cramped in
every possible way. The
greatest and most frequent
mistake made is in trying
to do too much. By
striving after the unat¬
tainable, not only is no
phase of nature truthfully
realised, but the result is
puerile and often ridicu¬
lous. To attempt to re¬
produce a Swiss mountain
on a Bmall scale in a glass¬
house is absurd ; at the
best it is no better than a
child’s toy-house, and is
not worthy of the gar¬
dener’s art. But what
objection can there be to
representing as correctly
as may be a few square
feet of that mountain-side
with its attendant vegeta¬
tion ? In a house of the
largest dimensions, and
where the effect is admit¬
tedly truthful and pleas¬
ing, we only get an infini¬
tesimal portion of the
forest of the tropics ; why,
then, may we not still
further reduce the scale so
as to fit into any house,
however small, and yet be in accordance with
what we see in nature ? It is just the
same in the garden—a boulder or two, a few
half-buried stones, with a few lowly plants
fittingly grouped, will be as true to nature as
the largest and best rockwork ever planned.
There is no question as to the possibility of
doing these things; w’hat the grower has to con¬
sider is whether a natural arrangement w ill best
suit his requirements. In many cases I am free
to say it would not, ow ing to the simple fact
that variety is much desired. A number of
plants are growm together, all varying in their
nature and requirements. It is a difficult
enough matter, even when there is every facility
for moving them about so that each one is ac¬
commodated according to the grower’s experience
and perception of its needs, to keep them in
healthy vigour ; but the task would be impos¬
sible if planted and grouped permanently
together. Moreover, many of them would be
too far from the glass to do themselves anything
like justice. Therefore, in the majority of small
greenhouses ugly stages and pots are a necessity,
and in such cases the grower will look rather
to the individual beauty of his plants than to
the effect they produce collectively. In a
general way experienced plant growers are too
fully cognisant of the difficulties and trials
which attend plant culture under glass to care
much for arrangement. A certain species may
do well in one portion of the house and almost
fail in anothet 1 * i the&lffclHr It goes where it

aiiMiiSiwaaiM

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

on one
ibt only

31 6

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 6, 1884.

grow his plants well, but will, in a general way,
manage that the arrangement of them pleases.
I have had a good deal to do with naturally
arranged conservatories in my time. One I once
had charge of was a good example of what can
be done on a large scale. Towards the centre
of the house, which was 50 feet high, there was
a rockwork with a pool of water, in which grew
Arum Lilies and other aquatics. From amongst
the rocks sprang Ferns and Mosses, with
drooping carpets of Tradescantia, whilst
Bamboos nobly rose their heads, towering up in
raceful spire-like masses to the roof ; also
rooping in thick clustered foliage to the water’s
edge, lofty Bananas, graceful spreading Palms,
climbers running wildly under the roof with an
undergrowth of Ferns, and here and there an
emerald-green carpet of Lycopodium Moss are
contributed, to form a tout ensemble at once free,
graceful, and natural. The chief ornament of
the house was a Musa Ensete, a majestic plant
with a trunk 2 yards round and 15 feet high,
carrying a crown of beautiful gracefully arching
leaves some 20 feet long. This was by far the
noblest example of vegetable life I ever saw,
its freshness, majesty, and grace being beyond
description. This plant was the first and one
of the very few plants that have borne seeds in
Europe.

But such a house as this does not concern the
readers of Gardening generally, they are more
interested in what can be done in a small com¬
pass. In the garden of an amateur hard by was
a small conservatory also arranged naturally,
and which I always thought a good example of
its kind and quite as much a success as the large
one referred to. In this one there was also a
water pool and rockwork, but of course on a
much smaller scale. Amongst the stones grew a
few well-chosen things, such as the grass-like
Isolepis gracilis, Tradescantias, green and varie¬
gated Selaginellas, &c.; springing from the water
were Cyperus altemifolius and the Papyrus,
whilst on one side of the rockwork grew an
Aralia papyrifera and on the other a dwarf
Bamboo. Around the house ran a path, a
border of unequal width being formed between
it and the wall, and which was planted with
Ferns, dwarf Palms, Aspidistras, Hedychiums,
Arundos, Aralias, &c., either singly or in groups,
whilst carpeting the soil around and amongst them
were Lycopods, Tradescantias, small-growing
Ferns, such as Davallias, Doodias, &c., the ground
in some places being level, in others broken up
by partially burned staves, which gave positions
for the tender-rooted Ferns and other things re¬
quiring good drainage. Over the roof were
loosely trained climbers of various kinds, not
obscuring the light too much, but giving a grate¬
ful shade to the general occupants of the house.
In all this there was nothing pretentious, the
plants employed being such as would grow for
years in a small house, and no one looking at it
could have said that the effect was otherwise
than natural and pleasing. But to those who
may desire to embellish a glasshouse in a
natural style a word of caution is necessary.
The plants used should be such as demand the
same, or about the same, atmospheric conditions,
flowering and fine-leaved plants as a rule not
doing well together. Thus, if Ferns are used
much, the other inmates of the house should be
such as prefer moisture and shade. As a rule
flowering plants are not so well adapted for
natural grouping, many of them having to be
pruned every now and then, and in a general
way they are not so graceful in form as those
grown for the sake of their leaves alone. But
there is a wide field open for those who may be
wishing to try and escape from the prevailing
formality of greenhouse arrangements, and he
will best succeed who brings patience, know-
ledge, and taste to the work.

By fleet. J. Cornhill.

Fuchsia Lord Beaconsfleld. —However
small a collection of Fuchsias may be, this
variety should be found in it. Plants of it
which start into growth naturally in a cool
reenhouse will in an ordinary season be in
ower in July, and will be getting out of bloom
by the end of August. I? the seed-pods are
then picked off and liquid manure given twice a
week, they will again start into growth, and
will bloom through the late autumn and early
winter months, but I may add that young plants
struck late in the spring and grown along freely
are best for this pujrfro'fc.:^-J. . 1 _

Digitized by^OOgle

11906.— Shaded gTeeu houses. —In reply
to “A. E. W.Derby, respecting plants for
shaded greenhouse, I should say, if the heat
stated can be commanded during the winter, he
will have very little difficulty in flowering the
plants named. While on the subject of shaded
greenhouses, I beg to say that my house is 15
feet by 9 feet, and 9 feet to the ridge, span-roof,
running south-west and north-east. I never
get a ray of sunshine from the 1st of September
until the 1st of April on any plant, through
being so blocked in by buildings ; but I can
flower Geraniums, Fuchsias, Primulas, Roses,
&c., as well as most amateur gardeners in
summer and autumn, and in winter I have
Cyclamen, Tulips, Hyacinths, Chrysanthemums,
&c. Several of my acquaintances have green¬
houses which get almost every ray of sunshine,
and in the summer they complain that having so
much sun causes them to have to water
most of their plants twice and three times
a day, whilst I have only to water mine
every evening, the foliage keeps beautifully
green, the flowers a great deal longer in bloom,
and they all express surprise at the healthy
condition my plants are in, while theirs appear
in many cases to be scorched, though the whole
of their glass is covered with a thin coating of
whitewash. My experience is greatly in favour
of a shaded greenhouse for the plants I have
named. My Liliuins of various sorts have been
really splendid, and several of them have yet to
bloom. A Clematis (Lord Derby) which has
never had a ray of sunshine on it during the
whole period of its growth is just bursting into
bloom, with numbers of buds fast swelling into
blooming size. I have two rows of 4-inch pipes
running down both sides and one end of my
greenhouse, which enables me to keep the tem¬
perature in the winter months at 50 to 55 degs.
—W. E. C., Derby .

11821.— Thrips on Fuchsias. — Dissolve
2 ounces of soft-soap in warm water and add
thereto a gallon of clean water, and either dip
the plants in it or syringe them. Thrips are
the result of want of vigour in the plants, or
more frequently of a too arid atmosphere. The
two causes in conjunction will bring on a bad
attack. The past hot weather has been remark¬
ably trying for Fuchsias, and they need at such
a time much care. By rights they should be
shaded, and if root-bound they need watering
twice a day, and the foliage should be freely
syringed morning and evening, well damping
down the floor and stages of the house.
Fuchsias like a cool, rather moist, atmosphere,
not lasting in bloom when much exposed to a hot
sun.—J, C. B.

11830.— Heat for stove plants.—For
Dipladenias, Eucharis, Crotons, &c., the winter
temperature should not be less than 60 degs. by
day and 55 degs. by night, but in spring, when
making their growth, they require some 10 degs.
more. The weather should in a great measure
determine the amount of heat applied ; thus, if
the days are sunny and the temperature rises to,
say, 80 degs., the night temperature may with
benefit be raised accordingly, but in dull, cold
weather it is not advisable to apply more heat
than is just necessary to keep them gently
moving. In summer, when the days and nights
are warm, there is no need to make a fire, but
when the evenings are chilly the pipes should
be warmed. By August the generality of stove
plants have made their growth and it is impor¬
tant that they ripen their wood. This is espe¬
cially the case with Allamandas, Ixoras, Fran-
cisceas, and other plants which are grown for
their flowers. From the middle of August they
should get plenty of air on fine days, and no
more fire heat than is necessary to keep them
in health. Then they pass the winter better
and at a lower temperature than they otherwise
would.—J. C. B.

11867.— Cyclamens dying.— You have
been practising the old-fashioned way of drying
off the bulbs, which has justly been stigmatised
as barbarous, and with the result which often
attends that method of culture. When the
corms are laid up dry for any time they sus¬
tain a loss of vitality, which prevents them
making more than a spasmodic effort to grow,
throwing out a few leaves, and then remaining
stationary. The right way to treat old bulbs is
to water only when dry after flowering until
the foliage dies away ; then shake all the old
soil away, and repot in free soil with plenty of

white sand in it. Give good drainage, and
stand the pots where they can be shaded from
hot sun, allowing the soil to dry out between
each watering. This will cause them to br?ak
regularly and strongly, and as they advance in
growth they may be watered more freely. By
late autumn the |>ots will be full of roots, and
the buds will L<_ abundantly formed.—J. C\,
Byfleet.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Azaleas. —The late-blooming plants will now
be setting their flower-buds, and should be no
more shaded. The syringe should also be with¬
held, simply throwing a moderate amount of
water about the floors and paths at, say, four
o’clock, when the house should be closed, allow-
the temperature to rise by sunheat, which is at
once the most genial to the plants and the most
economical. Continue this practice until the
flower-buds are up as large as small Camellia
buds. Get all the plants, large and small, tied
before they have quite completed their growth,
and the wood becomes hardened thoroughly, as
after this they are too stiff to regain the natural
position of the shoots after tying.

Hyacinths. — In potting Hyacinths and
Narcissi, preference should be given to deep
6-inch pots. The soil most suitable is turfy
loam, enriche- i with old cow manure, adding a
liberal supply of sand. The soil should be
pressed firmly in the bottoms of the pots, to pre¬
vent the roots from taking hold of it too soon,
otherwise the strength of the soil will be ex¬
hausted before the flowei mg period arrives.

Herbaceous Calceolarias.— These should
be pricked out in seed pans as soon as they are
large enough to handle. The principal points
needing attention are to keep them scrupulously
free from aphides, and to feed liberally with
manure water in the spring when they are
making active growth ; they delight in rich open
material from their first stage onwards. For
this first pricking out sift the soil, and add to it
one-fourth of fully decomposed manure and
leaf-mould in equal parts and a sixth of sand.
The pans used may be from 8 inches to 12 inches
in diameter, with 1 inch of crocks in the bottom,
and a little fibrous material over to keep the
loose soil out of the drainage ; on this put the
prepared soil, pressing it moderately, but not
too close, filling up the pans to within 1 inch of
the top; put in the plants about 1£ inches apart
and sprinkle overhead when each pan is filled.
Calceolarias are moisture loving plants, and
must never be allowed to get dry at the roots or
be subjected to an over dry atmosphere. Keep
them near the roof of the pit or house in which
they are placed during the autumn ; when they
require more room they must be potted off
singly.

Solanums that were planted out of doors in
spring in a warm, sunny position, should now
be lifted and potted, as it is necessary to get
them established before the season is too far
advanced, or the berries will not colour so well,
neither will the plants retain their foliage satis¬
factorily until the spring. Soil in which
Cucumbers have been grown will answer the
purpose just as well as new loam. It will re¬
quire sand enough added to it to keep it from
getting impervious to the liberal quantities of
water which these Solanums need. Put 1£ inches
of crocks in the bottom of each pot, with a
little half-decomposed leaf-mould on the top ;
pot them moderately firm, and do not fill the
pots too full. The day before lifting the plants
must be well soaked with water, which will
prevent their roots from being so much broken
in removal; take them up with a fork carefully.
It will be necessary to shake a good deal of the
soil from them to admit of their going into con¬
venient-sized pots. As soon as they are potted
they must be thoroughly soaked so as to make
the soil quite moist. If a pit or frame can be
spared so as to keep them close with little air
admitted, and shaded from the sun until they
have got established, that will be a suitable
place for them. If they cannot be so treated
they must be placed at the north side of a wall
or close edge, so as to prevent the sun from
shining upon them for three weeks, by which
time they will have made new roots sufficient to
supporFtlicm. During this fcjme sprinkle with

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Sept. 6, 1884.3

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

317

water overhead every evening whilst the
weather is dry. Examine closely in order to
see that no aphides infest the leaves, for if only
a few of these exist they will increase apace
when taken indoors. If it be desirable that a
portion of the stock should have their berries
coloured early, they ought to be placed in a
little heat; about 50 degs. in the night will soon
give them their orange tint. The remainder,
under ordinary greenhouse warmth, will form a
succession. If managed in this way these most
useful decorative plants can be had in better
condition than by any other method. Nothing
will bear confinement in a room better, or will
be more suitable for the purpose when the berries
are ripe.

Housing plants. —In the cooler portions of
the kingdom it is not safe to leave hard-wooded
plants out much longer without there exists
some temporary moveable protection, such as a
canvas covering on rollers, resting on a light
wooden framework, than which no more useful
appliance exists in a garden, as not only can it
be used to keep the plants from drenching rains
during the summer, but they will be safe for
some weeks yet by running the cover down
over them in the evenings when there is an
appearance of frost. Where there is not some
appliance of this sort they should be got in at
once, previous to which the house ought to have
had a thorough cleaning. Every plant liable

to the end of the month the earliest-rooted
layers may be taken off, and, if the weather be
warm and sunny, some shading should be
placed over them. Place the frame in which j
they are to be put with its back to the south, I
which will further tend to maintain a cool
atmosphere round the plants. It is not desir¬
able to remove the layers when the soil is wet
and sloppy.

Tansies —Cuttings of these may still be put
in. Small slips with small roots attached to
them can now be obtained from the centres of
the old plants, and if picked out in tine soil
out-of-doors they will soon become established.
They may be either put into boxes or pots,
whichever the cultivator prefers. Plants in
beds intended to bloom well in October should
now be surface-dressed ; all the flowers ought
to be removed and the growths pegged down
close to the ground. Sow seeds to produce
plants that will flower from the end of the month
of April all through the season. Seeds may also
be saved by gathering the pods and drying them
in an airy room.

Auriculas.— Old plants of these should have
been established in their blooming pots before
this month ; still, if they have not been potted
it will be desirable to do so rather than to allow
them to remain in the same pots another season.
Offsets that were put into small pots, five or six
in a pot, must now be potted off singly if they

to the attacks of mildew should be examined are well rooted. Plants that are throwing up
before being taken in, and where any trace of I trusses must have the flower-buds pinched out
the parasite is found dust freely with sulphur, I before they open ; autumn trusses exhaust the

for not only can the presence of the mould be
much easier detected now than when the plants
are arranged, but the chances of its affecting
others that are free from it are avoided.

Flower Garden.

By way of giving some assistance to the pro¬
longation of ftie beauty of bedding plants, let
dead and decaying flowers and foliage be kept
pinched of, and the outlines and groundwork of
the various designs should be scrupulously pre¬
served by pinching or pegging, as may be neces¬
sary : all the surroundings, too, such as turf,
Box edgings, paths, walks, &c., should be kept
neat and trim. We may soon expect high
winds, and therefore all tall-growing plants
should be securely staked and climbers tied in.
Remove suckers and straggling shoots from
Roses, and see that standards are also securely
staked. Any recently-budded plants should be
examined, and those buds thathave fairly started
into growth may have the ligatures moved. The
propagation of the various kinds of soft-wooded
and tender bedding plants ought now to be
completed, in order that they may have time to
get well established in their pots before cold,
damp weathor sets in.

Phloxes and Pentstemons. —It is a good
time to put in cuttings of the last-named ; the
small succulent shoots are the best. They
should be inserted in small pots, aud they will
strike roots in a few weeks if placed in hand-
lights or in a cold frame behind a north wall.
The flower spikes should be fastened to sticks
as the first blooms open. They will be found
to be very useful in a cut state. Cuttings of
Phloxes may also be put in and managed in
the same manner. As those in pots go out of
bloom the stems should be cut over at once,
and the pots placed out-of-doors on a hard
bottom.

Dahlias. —At this, the height of the blooming
season, the cultivator wLU be daily amongst his
plants. These will now be of large size, and if
the blooms have been thinned out, lateral
growths will continue to be formed and must be
pinched out with the finger and thumb. It is
bad management to have an over large propor
tion of leaves to that of flowers, which the
removal of the lateral growths tend to improve.
Exhibitors must select the best flowers, and
shade them by drawing their stems through a
slit in a board about 9 inches square ; a 7-inch
pot with a bit of potsherd placed over the hole
answers as well as a shade.

Hollyhocks. —Continue to take cuttings from

2 eB formed on side growths or from shoots
rown up from the base of the plants. If it be
intended to save seeds, the decaying flowers
should be removed before they injure the seed
pods ; fading flowers spoil the effect of th spike,
and it is best to remove them before they have
become unsightly.

Carna'

T10NH AND Pl<

fiddle

plants if the flowers be allowed to expand.
Green fly must be destroyed by fumigating,
brushing them off, or dusting with fine, dry
Tobacco powder. All offsets that have formed
roots should be carefully removed from the
parent plant with a sharp knife, and be potted
in light soil with a little sand placed at the base
of the offsets.

Tulips. —The ground for these should be pre¬
pared this month. Trench it 2 feet deep at least,
and mix some rotten manure with the soil. Pre¬
pare some fibrous turfy loam, place 3 inches or
4 inches of it on the surface of the beds, and in
this the bulbs should be planted. Place some
sharp river sand round each root at planting
time, which should be in November.

Pinks. —If the ground be ready for these they
may be planted out at once. The soil should be
in good order, from being turned over several
times. If this has not been done, better delay
the planting a few weeks. It is a good plan to
place some decayed turfy loam on the surface
of the beds before putting out the plants.

Succulent plants. —Offsets of many kinds of
succulents can now be had in quantity. All the
Sempervivums strike root readily in a cold pit,
and in any kind of soil, if not overwatered ; a
good watering when the cuttings are put in is
about all that is required till they have rooted.
The commoner varieties, such as 8. calcareum
and S. montanum, root and winter well on
south border ; but till they are rooted and estab¬
lished in the ground they should be netted over,
or birds pull them up in their search for insects.
The offsets of Eoheverias should be afforded the
protection of glass where practicable, otherwise
they winter tolerably well at the foot of a south
wall, particularly if planted on an incline to
throw off the rain, which is more fatal to them
than frost. Sedums, Saxifrages, and all other
hardy dwarf carpeting plants can be increased
to any amount by division, an operation which
may be done at any time. These lattor are all
good plants for winter bedding.

Spring Flowers. —Continue to plant out into
nursery beds any kinds of spring-flowering
plants that need more space, such as rooted
cuttings of Pansies, Aubrietias, &c., and seed
lings of Silene, Saponaria, and Myosotis. Keep
them moist and free from weeds, so as to
encourage them to make dwarf bushy plants by
the time the beds are cleared for their reception
in November.

Trees and Shrubs. —Pruning of evergreens
must now be pushed on ; Laurel hedges or banks
clothed with them should have all the strong
shoots cut out with a knife, an operation which
will let the sun and air in to ripen the medium
growths that are retained. Sweet Bays,
Laurustinus, and similar shrubs are all benefitted
by summer pruning, for if left to run up un¬
checked the strongest leading shoots take more
than their share of nourishment, and the lower
shoots get weak and exhausted

Fruit.

Vines. —Lady Downes, Alicantes, and Black
Morocco will now require more air, and if they
have been helped forward by judicious firing
through the spring the night temperature may
be reduced ; but gentle fires to keep the pipes
warm through the day will be of great surface
to the ripening wood. These may also be
divested of some of the strongest laterals to
plump up the back buds from which next year’s
breaks are to be obtained, but anything ap¬
proaching exposure of the bunches to the direct
action of the sun should be guarded against, as
black Grapes always colour best, and lay on
the finest bloom, under a good canopy of healthy
foliage. Gros Colmar requires a longer grouting
period than any other Grape, and on this
account it should always have the run of in¬
ternal borders, either by itself or in a mid¬
season house, where it can hang for some time
after the other kinds are cut. To have it in the
best possible condition for eating, it should be
kept rather warm on the vines some six weeks
after the leaves fall to get rid of the earthy
flavour, when its removal to a warm Grape
room will still further improve it; and although
it is never a rich Grape, it will be found a most
valuable acquisition to the dessert in the month
of March.

Melons. —Late Melons should now be set and
swelling away freely. Maintain a night tem¬
perature of 70 degs., cover up with mats to
economise fire, and see that bottom heat does
not fall much below 90 degs. Keep the laterals
closely stopped, but preserve all the old leaves
from the base of the stem upwards, and elevate
the fruit well up to warmth and light. As days
decrease in length atmospheric moisture must
be reduced, and direct syringing, providing the
foliage can be kept clean, may be discontinued.
Watch closely for canker, apply the usual
remedy—quicklime or charcoal—and if possible
prevent its appearance by maintaining a strong
circulation of dry, warm air over the surface of
the bed.

Strawberries. —These plants in pots always
make rapid growth through the month of
September. All at once the pots become full of
roots, and the crowns devolop rapidly, so much
so that there exists sometimes a doubt as to
whether they will ripen properly. Where
gentle stimulants have been used they must be
discontinued. Watering must be more care¬
fully performed early in the day in order to
admit of the balls and surrounding surfaces
becoming dry before nightfall. As the plants
increase in size they will require more room ;
they must also be kept free from weeds and
runners, and to prevent the ingress of worms
the pots must be elevated on dw'arf walls, planks,
or shutters. If not already done, make good
plantings of runners in well prepared ground
along the margins of walks for giving next year
supplies of plants for potting and planting.
When planted in single lines for giving stock
they need not be more than 1 foot apart, and
earliness being an important item, the site
selected should be a warm one, and in near
proximity to a good supply of water.

Hardy fruit. —Apricots and Peaches should
be kept closely tied or nailed in, and all sub¬
laterals removed as produced. Some few kinds
of Apples and Pears are ready to gather ; early
kinds are very tender fleshed, and require the
greatest care in gathering, as the least bruise
soon develops into full decay. For the same
reason they should be stored on the fruit room
shelves in single layers only. Above all see
that none are gathered prematurely, or they
will not ripen, but shrivel, or be sticky aud
hard. Note should now be taken of all trees
that are growing too vigorously, and which
will require root pruning, also of any that
require assistance to increase root action by
the addition of new soil and top-dressings,
and also of all new planting and plants required
for the same, so as to have all in readiness for
planting next month—October being the best
planting season for all kinds of hardy fruits.

Vegetables.

Potatoes. —The lifting of the Potato crop is
now by far the most pressing operation, and,
except in very late districts, even the latest
varieties may now be stored. Precautionary
measures should now be taken to guard against
the disease by having the Potatoes thoroughly
dry before storing, and by laying them as thin

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILL UST1L4 TED

I_Sept. 6, 1884.

318

as circumstances admit of in sheds, cellars, or
pits. They should be looked over a week or ten
days after storing, and if no disease is by that
time apparent their immunity from it may then
be safely predicted ; but if, on the other hand,
the disease be present, then examination of the
stores, in order to remove affected tubers, will
be necessary every few days, or the whole stock
will quickly succumb ; a sprinkling of quicklime
amongst them sometimes tends to arrest the
disease.

Onions should now be pulled up and left for
a few days on the ground to dry, and then tied
in bunches and hung in airy sheds, or else be
laid thinly on doors in similar positions. Those
recently sown, together with Lettuces, Endive,
Carrot*, Turnips, and Spinach will need thinning
out, and the soil kept well stirred to promote
growth and destroy weeds.

Cucumbers. —Another good sowing of Tele¬
graph made now will produce plants from which
fruit may be cut from Christmas onwards—a
period through which Cucumbers are not
always plentiful. Assuming that low compact
but light pits are at command, thoroughly clean
and properly heated, one of the main points in
winter culture is the production of a firm,
steady growth from the seed pot up to the time
the fruit is fit to cut, and as dry fire-heat is sure
to bring forward a colony of insects, this element
should be dispensed with as much as possible
by growing all the plants in pots plunged in a
bottom heat of 90 degs., which may be obtained
from fermenting Oak leaves. The pots should
be well drained, and a light rich soil, consisting of
turf, peat, and old lime rubble, will grow
Cucumbers quite strong enough for the present.

Cabbages. —A good piece of ground upon
which to plant early Cabbages should now be
dug over. Those sown in July will, by this
time, be large enough to plant out. It is best
at this season to plant on soils that have been
manured well for some previous crop. Ground
where Onions have been grown, and which by
this time will be cleared, will, if simply dug
over, answerall purposes. Small-growing sorts,
such as the Cocoa-nut, may be put in 9 inches
apart in the rows with intervals of 2 feet
between the rows. In the spring, as soon as
they are at all fit for use, every other one can be
taken out, leaving the remainder to develop
more fully. Larger kinds, like Enfield Market,
should be put in 1 foot apart in the rows, in
like manner taking out in the spring every
alternate Cabbage ; these larger growers should
also have 2 feet between the rows. When
putting them out use a little soot and lime to
each plant, which will have the effect of keep¬
ing away slugs. Whatever size the plants are
they should be planted so that the bottom leaves
will be on a level with the surface ; this does
away with the necessity for making the ridges
too high in hoeing up. If the land is mode¬
rately dry it is a good plan to make with the
hoe shallow trenches, 5 inches or 6 inches deep,
planting in the bottom of these. The advan¬
tage of this is that a portion of the soil in the
so-formed intervening ridges can be drawn to
support the plants before winter, and the re¬
mainder, thus a little elevated, acts as a pro¬
tection from frosty winds, and in the spring can
be put to the plants, still leaving them nearly
on a level with the surface, thus enabling the
whole of the roots to receive fuller benefit from
rain than if placed on a high ridge that throws
off the water. When the space intended for the
principal crop is filled, it is advisable to prepare
a small corner in which to put some plants for
a reserve ; these may be pricked 'out about 6
inches apart, and will come in for filling up
any gaps that may occur through the effects of
a severe winter.

Cauliflowers that were sown in the middle
of last month will now be ready to prick out,
and those intended for early use next spring,
and which are to be protected during the winter
by hand-lights, ought to be pricked out in them
at once. Double or even treble the number of
plants intended to stand may be planted in them
and drawn out as growth progresses, and trans¬
planted in other favourable positions as soon as
the severity of the winter is past. Of course,
the covers of the hand-lights will not be required
for use till there is danger of injury from frost.
A batch may also be pricked out at the bottom
of a south wall and left to stand the winter in

that position.
Lettuces,

:s.—Majte ajUsjt

the open

air of Lettuces. The Tom Thumb is a beautiful
little Cabbage Lettuce for sowing now for frame¬
work by-and-bye. It is very hardy, occupies but
little space, and turns in rapidly. The Brown
Cos should also be sown now for spring planting.
A last sowing of Endive may also be made now
on a dry warm border.

Tomatoes and Beans. —Keep the growth of
Tomatoes well thinned out, even to the cutting
away of a portion of the foliage if it overlaps the
fruit. The late bunches of fruit will be materially
hastened towards maturity by removing the other
bunches as soon as they have coloured; more¬
over, the fruit keeps longer for being cut at so
early a stage. French Beans in frames should
have abundant supplies of water, and the lights
should remain off till the night temperature
recedes to 45 degs.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11648.—Grubs in Apple trees.—I was
much interested in reading the article concern¬
ing the caterpillar of the goat moth in Garden¬
ing Illustrated (No. 277), as I have been much
troubled with this pest. They bored long
tunnels in almost all the branches of one of my
young Apple trees. I found after that they also
attacked a young wild Olive tree. Having no
experience in growing fruit trees, I was at a loss
by what means I could save the trees, when it
occurred to me that I might perhaps kill them by
means of a wire, at the end of which I made a
small hook. To my great satisfaction I got out in
this way several fat yellowish grubs with red
heads, and now my trees appear to be doing
well. “ T. D. E ” advises to kill the moths.

I should be much obliged if he would describe
them.— Elizabeth Kraevsky, Nicolaeff, South
Russia. I

11819.— Red spider in vinery.— When
vines are badly infested with red spider it is a
difficult matter—indeed, almost impossible—to
rid them of it. You may take about an egg-
cup of sulphur, make it into a paste, and then
mix it in a pailful of water, and with it syringe
the inner surfaces of the foliage. This will do
for a house about 40 feet long. Then if you
damp the floors down well morning and last
thing in the evening you will create a state of
affairs very repugnant to this plague. Another
season endeavour to promote a more moist
atmosphere in hot weather, and leave air on
when the nights are warm. Red spider cannot
bear cold water, so if any signs of it are per¬
ceived the lower sides of the leaves should be
syringed now and then. If plants are grown in
the house they should also be watched, and
thoroughly washed every hot day with the
syringe.— J. Cornhill.

11895.—Beetles In houses.— To extermi¬
nate beetles. First, place a few lumps of un¬
slacked lime where they frequent; second, set
a dish or trap containing a little beer or syrup
at the bottom, and place a few sticks slanting
against its sides, so as to form a sort of gang¬
way for the beetles to climb up by, when they
will go headlong into the trap laid for them;
third, mix equal weight of red-lead, sugar, and
flour, and place it nightly near their haunts.
This mixture, made into sheets, forms the beetle
wafers sold at the oil shops.— Celer et Andan.

- The most effectual way of exterminating black

beetles is to place a jam pot of porter in a basin with
water in it, and ladders for the beetles to creep up and
fall victims to intemperance.—D rowned.

11750. —Keeping plants in attios.—I
also have an attic with a south window, where
plants (Geraniums, Fuchsias, &c.) do fairly well
in winter, but I think might do better if I
understood the great care in watering of which
“J. C. B.” speaks. Can you kindly give me
some directions ? Also what plants are likely to
thrive and flower in winter in a drawing-room—
two windows, one south and one west—no gas,
constant fire ? This month, I think, being the
right time to arrange for winter bloom, kindly
answer speedily.—M. I. K. C.

11869.— Herbaceous plants after flowering —
The flowering stems of Delphiniums, and other hardy
flowers should be cut away, as many of them throw up for
a second crop of bloom. Bulbous flowers should not go to
seed, it weakens the bulb for the coming year.—J. C. B.

11898.— Clipping Grass edges.— You will find a
sheep sheare answer your purpose. It is also very useful
to clip round beds in a Grass plot. It costs about 2s.—
M. C.

11852.— Pruning Clematis Jackmanni. — This
plant should be pruned after Christmas, but not too
severely, leaving the healthiest shoots to nail to the oell.
When beginning to grow' and showing leaves, mulch with
old manure, and over that plenty of tea leaves.—M. C.

Seedli.no Begonias (B. C. Ravenscroft).— An uncommonly
fine gathering of varieties, some of them bein£ quite as
fine as the best named sorts. The fiery scarlet smglea are
superior to all the others, we think.- Exhibiting Pelar¬

goniums (Subscriber).— Happy Thought, being neither a
tricolor nor strictly a zonal, should not, we think, be
show’n in either the class for tricolors or that for zonal
varieties. It could be show-n in a class for variegated¬
leaved sorts only.- Camellia leaves droppino (B. Beer).

—The defoliation of your Camellias is no doubt attribut¬
able to the scales with which the leaf stalks are infested.
The leaves also appear to have been attacked by thrips.
Too much watering and high manuring in a badly-drained

border will also cause the leaves to drop.- Dictamsus

Fraxinklla (J. J.)— You evidently did not get the proper
seeds sent you. The Dictamnus is a very different plant
from the Convolvulus. If you procure seeds of the
Dictamnus from a respectable Arm you will no doubt get
the right plant. The seeds of Dictamnus require a long

time to germinate.- H. B.—Miss Ormerod’s address is

Dunster Lodge, near Isleworth.

Names Of plants.—^. H. Maw.— Montbretia Pottsi.

- K. M. C .—Calliopris Atkinaoni.- IV. E. Messon —

Buddleia globosa.- W. D .—Plantago lanceolata ; Lamb’s

Tonguo. The best way is to take up the whole of the turf

and soil for about 6 inches, and relay with clean turfs.-

R. Greening.— Alnus glutinosa.- M. Stood — Thalictrum

flavum (Meadow Rue).- Ovoca. —1, Apparently a species

of Iris; 2, Calystegia Sepium ; 3, Godetia (cannot say which

kind—specimen too small); 4, Lupinus mutabilis.- P —

Probably a species of Hypericum, but cannot be certain

without fuller material.- R. Dawkins.— Next week.-

T. Graham.— The numbers you put to your Ferns were all
detached w hen the specimens reached us, so that it would

be but little use to name them.- W. R. B.—Hibiscus

syriacus fl. pi.- J. Dent. —Bee Balm (Monarda didyma).

- G. Smith.— The Tea Tree(Lycium barbarum).- A. B.

—Atriplex Halimus.- M. B.—1, Lysimachia vulgaris ; 2,

Mimulus c&rdinalis roseus.- E. Cross. —Zinnia elegans.

- Alpha. —Ceanothus azureus.- Lagan.— Asplenium

Trichomanes.- M. Therthisson. —Variety of Jasminum

officinale.- Old Lady. —Calystegia oculata fl.*pL Trail¬

ing Arbutus is probably the Gaultheria Shallon.

QUERIES.

Rules lor Correspondents.— AU communications
or insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the payer only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any norn
do plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the Query
answered. When more than one Query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when good
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name varieties
of florist s’ JUnoers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas,
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist who
has the means of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to name should always
accompany the parcel.

119S8.— Boiler for greenhouse.— I have a Lough
borough boiler, and my man, at present, has not succeeded
in keeping it alight half the time it is advertised to burn.
If anyone from experience will tell me how it is to be
managed I shall be greatly obliged.— Kent.

11939.— Shrubs for small garden.— Will some¬
one tell me what kind of shrubs will thrive best in a front
garden, with northerly aspect, and exposed to Btrong
currents of wind from the east ? Laurels nave been tried,
but do not thrive. Climate, North Yorks.—A.

11940.— Lily culture.—Will someone kindly say if
Tiger Lilies should be taken up every year ; also if Lilium
auratum may be left in the ground in winter? The garden
is sunny and sheltered.—M. 0.

11941.—Propagating Clematises —I should like a
hint as to how to propagate Clematis Jackmanni ; also how
often should bulbs of Gladioli be taken up or divided?—
M. C.

11942.—Rose for wall.— What is the best hardy Rose
to grow in a box against a sunny w'all ? Will Gloire de
Dijon do well ? And w'hat crimson one ? When should
they be moved ? Also I should like to read directions for
treating Lily of the Valley, and when to move it.—M. C.

11943.— Thrips on Dahlias and other plants. —
On looking over our Dahlias I was surprised to see so
many young flow’ers prematurely disfigured, and on
examining them I found them to be covered with thrips
by hundreds, black, brown, and white. They do not seem
to make any distinction between double and single
varieties ; and on looking farther I find they are almost as
bad on Roses, Antirrhinums, Marigolds, Sweet Peas,
Carnations, &c. I should like to know if others are
troubled with this little pest, and how to get rid of it. I
may say that in this district (North Manchester) I couM
mention at least a dozen places where the spring sown
Parsley is quite a failure. Is this the case in other
districts, and, if so, can anyone give the cause?—Ou
Subscriber.

11944.—Asphalts carriage drive—Will soar
one give me instructions how' to make asphalte suit*'- •
for carriage drive, the w*ay to put it dow’n, and the co*
per yard?lw. J.

11945.— Manure for fruit trees.— Can you tell cs
if fowl manure is good for most kinds of fruit trees, : &
eluding Strawberries and Currant and Gooseberry trfA
i and thd "best time to apply it?—A cton.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Sept. 6, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

319

UW6.-Wintering Tobacco plant.-1 have
Ntootiana affirm of this year’s growth, planted along a
south-east wall, it is 2 feet 3 inches high and a splendid
specimen, which I am anxious to preserve. Will someone
inform me if I may leave it out, or if I must take it up
this autumn? I have no greenhouse.— Young Growkr.

11947.—Forming a rock work.—I wish to build a
rockery upon a wide gravel path against a wall facing
west. Should the gravel and brick rubble be removed ?
Where can I buy the burnt brick, or whatever is required
to form the rockwork ? Should I first form a bea with
mould, and place bricks, Ac., upon it? And when is proper
time to plant ? Also where can I purchase seed, or plants
of alpine Pinks, as mentioned in Gardening Illubtratbd
of August 16th? I should be obliged for anv information
on the subject.—M. C. H.

11948.-Forming a Grass plot.-Will some reader
inform me how to make a Grass plot at the end of a small
garden?— Constant Reader.

Artificial manure.—Will any correspondent
whether th ©re is any cheap artificial manure
suitable for a very small flower garden where there is no
means of turning Grass, Ac., nor of storing stable manure
and at what season should it be used for perennials?—
Floktta.

11950.—Sowing- Araucaria seeds.-Having picked
up some Araucaria seeds I am very anxious to plant them,
and should like to know what is the best time of year to
A 1 ? 0 ou * ht toe y be Panted in pots, in a hot¬
bed or cold greenhouse, or out of doors? As the seeds are
laige and oval, should they be planted on their ends or
not ? Any further particulars would oblige.—X enia.

11961.—How to make a lawn tennis erround—
Will any reader kindly tell me how to make alawn tennis
ground ? The site we have proposed for it is in a kitchen
garden. Potatoes were grown last on the ground. Please
to state how large we ought to make it for three or four-
handed game (our not is 11 yards long), what kind of
seeds are the best, when they should be sown, and if the
ground will be ready for use next summer. We think of
making a sunk one with bank all round-how wide and
deep should the bank be?— Flora.

®P a11 gTeenhouae.—I have a
wnall greenhouse, 6 feet by 4 feet-will any reader kindly
Bimpl ^ t and che aP«Jt method of keeping
the frost out during the coming and other winters ? Of
course you will understand I have no heating apparatus.
Barnss n0t 111 oil ' atove which will do the needful?—J.

dying.—Can any cause oe
assiped for a fine Carnation in pot suddenly flagging and

WnnW mUSI 18 h. ,,p t wafc ered and in a sun ” y f 00m .

JR * 00 tl n| lt , v * . so aa raise up the lower
part of stem off the earth, do it?-W indow Gardener.

lanceolate,.—Last week I notice
i t “enfconsthts plant with approbation. May

J “ k whether he grows it from seed or cuttings ? When

planfc 1 have grown ° x y ura for

the fire; time this year, and, like “W. B.,” am greatly

• s0 „ w .\ t r h CallJo P #l » Drummondi, which
in W - Bs - ” li8t ft is well worth
growing.—A. D. Lbitch.

11955.—A beautiful climber.—A few davs turn
rambling through Wales. I saw a beautiful climber? leases
pinnate, deep green, large; flowers red, of good substance
borne in clusters, tubular, about 2 to 2* inches long, by
about 1 inch across at the mouth of tube. I should be verv
glad and feel much obliged to you if you could name the
cluu^r from above description.— Climber. (You probably
saw Tecoma radicans.— Ed.] p y

11956.—Prancpa ramosa—At page 252 directions
given for growing this plant, but I should like to know
mnii 'S* ^ is , re ^ Uir ^ ,or one P lant . and what size for
° ne !rT* ^ 0LFB - . ( A pot atout 6 inches in
dteneter across the top is sufficiently large to grow a good-
sized plant of the Francoa in. It is not usual to pl2ce
moi^than one plant in each pot, provided the plant is

11957.—Spot on Orchids—I should be obliged for
information respecting the disease which affects Orchid
leaves, causing black spots, the nature of it, whether
2ww r f fanfr V 8 ’ " hat probabiy produces or causes it, and
whether from too wet treatment, or too much shade (which
^ that h £ U !£ ha Yf)' and what can be done to
ifr°nr CU « re ; , wbetber a 11 leave8 80 diseased should be
taken off or not? I have reason to think that it soreads
from one plant to another, as I observed that it was begin-
nfrg upon a leaf which touched one diseased, and onmy
removing it from this contact the disease was checked
hM almost cleared. The disease prcv“l, cK

SattSk. t th.° >tt 6>M ‘‘"iif*"**' and 1 flnd that " hen
th young growths putting out a flower sheath
the latter never comes to perfection.—J. Huish.

k^w 5 t 8 h7E2 > ? afira ??i? 8hl *ub8.-I should be glad to
know the best time of the year to strike Ivy, Fir, Cedar
other kinds of hardy shrubs. Also best time to strike
Attpelopsis, Yeitchi, and the Virginan Creeper.— Fancil.

11969.-Cats in gardsns-During this summer I
*e nearly one half my flowers destroyed by cats, which
Jwupthe garden in a most dreadful manner. I hive
roots of some nice plants torn out of the ground In
■toon to this the smefi in some parts of the garden at
1 8h0U,d be gro^ful to any
t€ , U 1 me a if tbere i8 anything that cats dis
which I could put on the beds to keep them from

w<3d E °Ji^v, ed fl by 1116 “ft and wheth er such preventive
hurt the flowers. Also what is the surest and least

ImSJSSfto S r * if "? thin g el8e will stop their
I must resort to that.— Unfortunate Londoner.

liaeo.-Flowers f or church decoration _wm

pliSwd k, bu!L in i°c mi to me Whi , ch are th0 tertkrtTo"
for ? u b ’ 5ft t0 grow for a succession of bloom

Mn Jth7L nfcer 1 monfch m and a L 80 fche be8t mod « of cultivat¬
ing th e some in a cold greenhouse f—T. P T

VVUi 9 ILr Lou i? h S 0 I ou ® fh . arreenhouse boiler—
realh^I? ^ k,nd enough to inform me If they con

*«» «*w*

u 11 % 2 v7 Pre ? ervin 6 r Mountain Ash berries.—I
should like to know how to preserve the Mountain Ash
berries for winter table decoration ?—E. P. B.

11963.— Weedy lawn— Three years ago I laid down
a lawn ; the turf is now a mass of weeds—Dandelion, Plan¬
tain, Ac. It has been kept rolled and mown. What is the
best thing to do? It would be very expensive to re-turf it
— F. K. Hilton.

H964—Neetarines splitting:.— Will someone tell
me of the cause of the fruit on one of my Nectarine trees
splitting when almost ripe, and how to prevent the same
another year ? It has done so two years in succession
now. Perhaps it is peculiar to that variety. Lord Napier
I do not think dryness at the root is the cause—S. C.

11965— Strawberries for town. —I have grown the
President in a town garden surrounded by buildings, and
therefore, only partially favoured with sun and air. The
plants were young ones—first year of fruiting—but I am
not satisfied with them. I found them too acid for my
liking, and they did not bear much fruit, and some of that
very ill-shaped and small. I want to try a different sort
one likely to succeed under such circumstances and much
sweeter. Will someone recommend one which will answer
these requirements?—S. F.

11966— Culture of Hedychium— As the Hedy-
chium does not die down in winter, I should be obliged for
information as to whether it is right to cut down the old
stems that have flowered, and if so, at what time it should
be done ?—Q.

AQUARIA.

Fish for aquarium.— “ G. S.”—My re¬
plies to the above would be as under : 1. Your
tank would hold three or four small fishes about
3£ inches long. 2. The small pebbles or weli-
washed river sand should be three inches deep.
3. Minnows or carp are the best for aquaria ;
sticklebacks do best by themselves, as tney are
so pugnacious. 4. Rain or river water do
equally well—not hard water. 5. The green¬
house would be better than the vinery, but
neither would be best. 6. Fish will not breed
in an aquarium. 7. The water must never be
changed, but a good amount of plant must be
inserted to supply oxygen. 8. The fish need
be fed seldom if ever. Purchase Shirley
Hibberd’s “Handbook to the Fresh Water
Aquarium.”—R. F., Ash'on-upon-Mersey.

BIRDS.

Foreign birds for aviary—I keep in an unheated
room all the year round some canaries, linnets, and other
smaii birds in large cages which open into each other, and
I should be glad if some kind correspondent would give
a list of such foreign birds as I could keep with those I
have, and which would be likely to agree with them, and
live on the same food, and be under the same conditions ;
also should such foreign birds be obtained in pairs ? and
any practical hints tending to the comfort and happiness
of the birds in confinement would be very much appro
ciatid.—H. H.

*’? ai T bound— Take a penny camel hair

paintbrush, work it into a point, dip it in castor oil; hold
the bird gently in the hand, and insert the brush gradually
up the vent of the bird. Also put two or three drops down
* \( K ft L ^ taken in time is a® almost certain cure.

SPECIAL OFFER.—Twelve beautiful Bou-
1“ ch ,o ic « varieties, including Alfred Neuner
and President Garfield, for 4s. free.-W. BARRACK, Castle
Garden s, Kendal.

TAT BARRACK, Castle Gardens, Kendal,
T T • Inrites attention to his SPECIAL OFFER of first-
rate flowering plants, thoroughly recommended for winter
blooming viz.—GERANIUMS in 5-inch pots. Is. each, in-
eluding K V Raspiel, Vesuvius, Henry Jacoby, and Won
derful. BOUVARDIAS, very beat varieties, in 3-Inch pots
^ doz - Choice PRIMULAS one
ln 3* ,nch P 01 -*. 3s. doz. New Tropteolum,
Kendal Castle, splendid vermilion flowers, 6<L eacfr Also
«, e in fi ? e Plant*, viz., Pilea muscosa (Artillery

Plant), Pteris serrulate cristata, and Begonia Rex, 6d. each.
Adiantum Capillus-Venerig, 5J-inch pots, 9d. each

DOSE TREES, HYBRID - PERPETUALS,

W rorrectly named, of the best sorts. My selection, price
P ? : \ t i oz - , 10s - 8e nt out properly packed the first week in

October, by passenger train. Orders booked now. With each
or *er a book on the Cultivation of the Rose, gratis. Money
Barrington offlce.-Address : 8AMUEL
DAXON, Croft, Warrington, Lancashire.

DEVONSHIRE FERNS'! DEVONSHIRE

J-' FERNS !1 Two dozen for Is. 6d.; larger plants. 6d.
extra; all good crowns and well rooted. Single dozen for Is.,
named varieties, suitable for pots or outdoor, with cultural

Barnstaple. _ [1971

ditto,
general

runners, *s. ou. per 100,

j RY, R ag lan Ho u se, Wolverhamp ton.

HLD CLOVE CARNATIONS.—Flaked dit

v 9d - d oz.; Strawberry plants, McMahon, best for gene
crop, yearling plants, 3s_6d.; strong runners. 2s. 6d. per ]
all free.—F. NEWBERY, Raglan House. Wnlv«rhn.mnt,nr

UANSIES.—100 well-rooted autumn tr&ns-

A Planted plants from open ground, post free, 3s., in eight
separate varieties, or three separate colours for bedding, «■“
desired. J. W. GALVIN. Nurseries. Roscommon.

—-- w. w . uAMjTiAi, iimncncB, iwcummon .

HRYSTAL PALACE.—GREAT ANNUAL
and GREAT national

DAHLIA SHOW, Friday and Saturday, Sept. 5th and 6th
For schedules, &c., apply W. g. HEAD. Garden Superin.
tendent. Crystal Palace. N.B—At the Hardy Fruit Bhow.
n° t0 oS r fc .° n Jk a°UDia offered by Messrs. Northard and
V tr ^ t - 0 to ^ don i for the beat exhibition of
Amerioan and Novla Sootlan Apploa, to whloh the CryiUl
S the cup afl a lint prize, tffTae a

a priie, and ^2 as a third prire.

QHOICE CHRYSANTHEMUMS.—800 varie-

. . ‘j® 8 - tl ) e most complete collection of early flowering and
itndifnf W ^ ing Cbn’santhemums in existence. Many thou-
f fnr tro W lau ^ fr . ee by pa^® 18 P 081 »t 3s. per dozen, or
packed for rail in pots at same price. Smaller plants. Is 6d
10*. per 100 AU colrectly named.-N DAVIS;
1 he Chrysanthemum Nurseries, Lilford-road, Camberwell,
lionaon.

NTLW CHRYSANTHEMUMS.—12 very fine

■tl aquJnlr.Inna nf fha nnunl ••••#,« e t _a- . _.

of last a

thftm nm

12 best

0 A. DEVONSHIRE FERNS, named varieties,

,7 fori s 6±, larger plants 6d. extra with separate cultural
instructions for each sort, and particulars of the soil It grows
best in, suitable for pots or outdoor culture. Maiden-hair
(Asplenium Trichomanes), black Maiden-hair (Asplenium
Adiantum nigrum). Plants with good orowns ana roots and
instructions, Is. per dozen. All securely packed in strong
box. post f ree.—JA MES OOILVTE, Barnstaple

pUCHSIA CUTTINGS.—Now is the time to

~T Btrikefor early blooming. Cuttings from a choice collec-
rion, Is. 3d. doz., rooted, 2s. doz.-Catalogue with cultural
directions onestamp.-W. E. BOYCE, F.R.H.8., 87, Yerbury-
road , Holloway, Lon don.

pUCHSIA—MRSTRUNDELL.—Nice plants

-W °E 1 BOYCETM^biJe° miDg varlefcy ’ nowre ady, 9d. each.

pLORISTS’ FLOWERS.—I beg to intimate

£ that my grand collection of Pansies. Violas, PhloxeB,
Jrentstemons, Antirrhinums. Roses, Ac., are now in fine flower
Bewh.Uil 1 , near Edinburgh. Inspection
dG HN DOWN1E, Nurseryman, 14, Princes Street,
Edinburgh._

Coleus, 2 Humea elepans, and a collection of hardy spring
flowers, Myosotis dissitiflora. Wallflowers, Brompton 8tocks-
&c , Ac., or half the quantity, my selection, for 6s. All care
“ ldy P^ke^ post or carriage free.-JAME8 LOOME8,
F.R.H.S., The N uraencs, Whittlese y , near Peterb orough.

-, vvmma^ocj>, uuttl f PUSTI JUrOUgll.

DLANTS, from good strains only—Primulas

„ 28 •» Cinerarias Is. 6d., Cyclamen 2s.6d., Gloxinias 2s 6d

Geraniums doublo Anri flincrlA 9 ji fir! In 1 _V

~ is. oa., uyciamen zs.ekl.. Gloxinias 2s 6d

Geraniums double and single 2s. 6d. f Fuchsias Is. 6d., Calceo¬
larias (choice) 2s. M.. Coleus 2s.. GreviJlea robusta3«. Rivinla
EOOmVs 3 *' : v°p r H U « y c ^ riage 'roe- ~ JAMES

^Kugh^n- 8 - the Nur8erie8 ’ Whittl ®“y. near

QEORGE BOYES & CO. —STRIKE CUT-

, TINGS now, dibble 3 inches apart in road grit, out of
doors, will make good plants for winter blooming
Niobe (new), Lumen (new), Lady E. Campbell.
Atala, Rev. Atkinson, Jewel, Mrs. Leavers, Mdme. A. Baltet
Aurora, Olive Carr, one of each poBt free. Is., V.O.

HUTTINGS, strong, healthy, cuttings—Pelar-

y goniums, Gloire de LiUe, Mabel, Duke of Albany, Rosy
Gem, Kingston Beauty, Bertie Boyes, 8carletGem, Triomphe
de St Monde, Duchess of Bedford, one of each, post free.
Is., P.O.—Geraniums, 10 strong, weU-rooted plants for winter
blooming, all distinct varieties, 3s.—Aylestone Park, Leicester

SPECIAL OFFER OF BELGIANPLANTS.

a .~ Az £lf a , In 1 dic 5’ CaroeUiaa. Azalea Mollis, hardy Ghent
Azaleas, Rho<lodendrons, Palms, Orchids, Ac., Ac. Extra fine
plants, best varieties at lowest prices. Ch. Yuylsteke
Nurseryman, Loochristy, Ghent, Belgium. Catalogue free
on application to Messrs. R. SILBERRAD A SON 55
Savag e Gardens, Crutched Friars, Londop, E.C. _

H. ERANIUM CUTTINGS. — Wanted good

Y Cuttings of the following varieties: Vesuvius, Henry
Jacoby Master Christine, Virgo Maria, Black Douglas,
MacMahon, Sophia Dumaresquc. Mrs. Pollock, Mrs. John
Clutton, Flower of 8pri*g, Prince Silverwings, Crystal Palace
-Sendsampfr and price perlOOor

I, 000 to DANIELS BROS., Town Close Nurseries, Norwich.

80 OOO CLEMATIS IN POTS, of 'aTTthi

Y V./ V/ V finest double and single varieties (some of

the flowers of which become 10 inches across, and are of
every shade, from pure white to the darkest purple), for climb¬
ing and bedding, from 12s. to 24s. per dozen, strong plants:
descriptive list on application.—RICHARD SMITH A OO
Nurserymen and 8eea Merchants, Worcester _ M

"RIPE PEACHES, very fine, any quantity per

„ parcels post, most carefully packed, from our Orchard
House, 7s. 6d. doz. Read on.

-nOUBLE GERMAN WALLFLOWERS, finest

, Imported, .trong planU, 25, 1. 9d.; 100. 5». All shades
of colonr. Read on.

T?LOWERS FOR CH RISTMAS. -Extraordi-

O n ^u?a tle TJ ) H lb8 ^.-Roman Hyacinth, pure white, 3s. doz.;
Paper White Polyanthus Narcissus. 2s. dozen; both bloom in
Nove mber ind o ors. Plant at once . Pa rcels Post fre e. Read on

THE BEST WALLFLOWERS.—Plant at once

J- to ensure an early and good display of bright, sweetly-
scented flowers. Lisley s large-petalled. planted early, com-
mences to bloom in November, superior to all others, 50 2s
100, 3s. 6d ; Belvoir Castle, golden, very effective dwarf bed
ding variety; Harbinger, early red; also grand Covent Garden
strain, intense, dark, blood-red, very popular, separate or
above four var. mixed, 50, 2s. 3d.; 100, 3s “

Read on.

. 3d., strong, free.

RO STRONG, hardy plants, 2s. 6d., free, or

YY 4s. 6d. 100. Mixed Wallflowers as above, d

, Y ,**-6d. 100. Mixed Wallflowers as above, double Aqui
legia (Columbine), Sweet WiUiam, Dean’s Auricula-eyed a
superb strain, Antirrhinums, from 30 var., Hollyhocks fine-
double, Brompton 8tocks, double scarlet, in 5 var., from
« bo ^’^rS, f Ji 11 y.J >acked ’ and satisfaction guaranteed.—JOHN
R. FLOWER, Floral Nursery, UUey, near Rotherham. _

TUTARKET-GARDEN, &c.—To be LET, with

possesion, the Ballbrook MARKET-
ft . nd Hairy Farm, situate about one mile
from the City of Bath and Bathamptou Station (G.W.R.), oom-
prising 9 acres fruit and market’garrions, 7J acres of pasture,
comfortable house, cart-shod, stabling, piggeries, store sheds!
and numerous outhouses. Southern aspect, and commands

“WANTED, Situation a* Under Gardoner,

.fL, w

■ -\ .* ■Vw n.lJl 'J

320

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept, f-,51884.

ONLY 2s. 3d., free. Three each of white

U Roman Hyacinths, blue ditto, paper white, and double
Roman Narcissus, for Christmas bloom ; finest picked bulbs.
—j. SYLVESTER, Idle, Bradford.

ILLUSTRATED BULB CATALOGUE and

1 Plant List, free on application. N^ciwus. Hvacmths.
Tulips, ftc., at Carriage Free prices.—J. 8\ Lv E8TEK, idle,
Bradford._ _ _____

A NEMONES. — Giant French, Carter s

xi -‘Empress." 24 for 2s. 3d., plant at once for cool-house
bloom; white Roman Hyacinths. 2s. and 2s. fid.^r dozen.
15a. and 18s. per 100 ; double Roman Naroissus, 2a. 3d.per
dozen- paper white, 2s. per dozen: blue Roman Hyacinths,
k S per dozen, all free.-J. 8YLVE3TKR._Idle. Bradford.
PI IN Ell ARIAS.—Very large plants of the best
Vj strains in cultivation, 2s. per dozen; winter r llowenng
Begonia*. 3s. 6d. per dozen ; young plants Dracaenas, o for js. ;
Grevillea robusta, fine plants, for ^ble or wmdow ^oratmn
immediate effect, 3 for 2s. 6d.—J. SYLVESTER, Monst,
Idle, Bradford.

FOR THE MILLION.

For Pots or Open Garden Spring Culture.

MESSRS. PROTHEROE & MORRIS will

1V1 SELL by AUCTION at their Great Central Sale Rooms,
67 and 68, Cheapside, London, E.0 (next door but one to
Bennetts Clock), Every MONDAY, THURSDAY, and
SATURDAY, during September, October, and November,
commencing at Half-past Eleven o clock each day, 50.000 Dots
of the best varieties of Hyacinths, TulipB, Crocus, Narcissus
4c., for unreserved sale. Commissions carefully executed
and lots packed and forwarded to all parts of the Kingdom
6d. remitted in stamps to the Auction Rooms as above alii
insure the supply of catalogues for 12 sales.

lAriNTER STOCKS.—East Lothian, scarlet

V V and white ; Salter's scarlet Brompton, Canterbury Bells,

Sweet Williams. Wallflower*. Sweet Rocket, Carnation*
Pinks. Aquilegias. Is. per dozen, 5s. per 100, free. Catalogue
f ree _j SYL VEST ER, Idle, Bradford. _

WINTER FLOWERING TROP.EOLUMS.

Y V Four for Is. 6d.; 12 various Climbers, 3s. 6d.; 12 Green¬
house Plants, 3s. 6d. ; Auriculas. Alpines, 2s.l dozen ; Show
Seedling, 2s. 6d. dozen.—J. SYLVESTER, .Florist, Idle,

BULBS. BULB8, BULBS!

Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays.

MR. J- C. STEVENS will SELL by

1Y1 AUCTION, at his Great Rooms, 38, King Street,
Covent Garden, regularly THREE TIMESA WEEK as
above, large consignments of first-class DUTCH * LOWER
ROOTS, lotted to suit both large and small buyers. ine
sales commence at half-past 12, finishing generally about 5.-
On view mornings of sale, and catalogues had._

Bradford._—

flHEAP OFFERS.—WALLFLOWERS, all

VJ the four kinds. Sweet Williams, Auricula-eyed and
blood red, Brompton Stocks, double, and Strawberry
Runners, all Is. 9d.’ per 100. Very strong Delphinium
formosum, prize strain, every shade of blue, 2s. per dozen.
All free next post.-SAMUEL GREEN, Florist, Romiley,
near Stockport.

6s.

AN receipt of Postal Order or Stamps for

U 2s. 6d-, I will Bend carriage free 50 assorted BULBS,
consisting of Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocus, Snowdrops
Narcissus. &c., suitable for pots and glasses. Wonderful
value.-Mr. R. JOSEPHS. Fleet, Hants.

PLANTS, cheap and good, all per dozen.—
J- Carnations, Is. 3d.; Pansies, 9d.; Brompton and Inter¬
mediate 8tocks, Is. 6d.; Sweet Rockets, 9a.; Wallflowers,
8d.; Sweet WUliams. 8d.; Dianthus, 8d ; Everlasting Peas,
Is. 2d.; Silene pendula compacta, 9d. Best Straw berry
Plants, strong, 2s. 9d. per 100. All free per parcels post.—
Mr. R. JOSEPHS, Fleet, Hants._l 138

UULBS! BULBS ! Beat named Hyacinths,

■D for glasses, pots, or forcing, 3 b., 3s. 6d., 4 s., and 4s. 6d.
doz.; bedding ditto. Is. 8d. perdoz., 13s. per 100 : finest mixe<l
Crocus, Is. per 100, 9s. per 1,000; finest mixed double Tulir-
6d. doz.. 4s. per 100; ditto, good mixture, 4d. doz.. 2s. t
per 100; mixed Narcissus, Is. doz., 7s. 6d. per 100. Catalogue
free. B. SODDY, Seedsma n, &c„ 243, Walworth-road., 8.E .

BULBS! BULBS! BULBS!

call and see my importation.

HYACINTHS from Is. dozen. TULIPS from 2s. 6d. hundred.
CROCUS from Is. hundred, 4c.

ROBERT SYDENHAM, Jeweller,
Tenby Street, BIRMINGHAM.

A MARYLLIS AULICA, extra large flowering

ii bulb of this grand old variety (large crimsom and green
flowers), from 6-inch pot , 3s. 6d., free.— ATHER TON, Cadley .

A MARYLLIS MARGINATA, extra large

-lx flowering bulb of this magnificent variety, from 6-inch
pot, 3s. 9d., free —AT HER TON, Catlley. _

A MARYLLIS JOHNSONI, extra large flower

ii ingbulb of this splendid variety, from 6-inch pot, 3s. 6d..
free. The above are all very large bulbs, and will shortly
throw up their flower spikes; one of each sort for 10s., free.-
JOHN ATHERTON. Cadley, Preston.

T ASTREA FILIX-MAS CRISTATA, var,

-Ll Berklei. the finest-crested Lastrea in cultivation, one
good strong plant, Is. 3d., free; smaller plants, 9d. each, 3 for
2s.—JOHN ATHERTON, Cadley, Preston._

OPLENDID IXIA BULBS, mixed colours,

O also Sparaxis, Tritonias, Babianas, 4s., all free, per
Cash with order to W. DAWBER, Guernsey.

5s.

100 .

1124

pLASS APPLES (Malum vitreum), a rare

VT magnificent and superior dessert Apple; when well
ripened becomes partly transparent early in the season.
Orders for a limited supply of grafts for next spring will be
booked for 2s. 6d. each at H. HAAGENSEN, Warman Villa.
G rims by.

PANSIES A SPECIALITY.—Show and fancy

-L Pansy cuttings, finest named prize varieties, from fine,
healthy stock, sure to give satisfaction, Is. 6d. ft3s. perdoz., free
ALEXANDER LISTER, Oa yfield Nursery, Rothesay. N.B

fTARCISSUS POETICUS RECURVUS.

il variety of Pheasant's Eye, with the petals re-curving
gracefully, very sweet-scented, strong bulbs, 3s. 3d. per 100, or
50 for Is. 9(1, carriage free.—G. PHIPPEN, Victoria
Nurseries, Reading. Established 1862.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.—For Sale, finecollec

VJ tion of large flowering sorts, suitable for exhibition ; all
true to name.—Apply to TREASURER, South London
Chrysanthemum Society, Marlboro' Arms, South Street,
Camberwell. S.E.

The cheapest and most liberal collection of

DUTCH FLOWER BULBS

Offered. Enough for any ordinary garden
Sent on receipt of P.O. by

E. J. JARMAN,

THE PEOPLE'S SEEDSMAN,

Chard, Somerset.

Catalogues sent Gratis on application^

CHOICE

FLOWERS AT CHRISTMAS

BY PLANTING NOW.

doz. 100.

White Roman Hyacinths .. 2s. 6d. 18s. 6d.
Paper White Narcissus .. is. 9d. 12s. od.
Double Roman Narcissus 2s. od. 14s. od.
Due Van Thol Tulips, Bingle Is. Od. 7s. 6d.

Each.

Is. 0d. & 2s.

Doz.

15s. 4 21s.

Christmas Rosos.

extra strong clumps

Choice named Hyacinths, for pots and glasses*
from 5s. per dozen, post free.

Special low quotations for Bulbs for outdoor
planting.

New Illustrated Catalogue post freo.

GEORGE COOLING &. SON,

Seed Merchants and Nurserymen,

BATH.

HUGHES’

CREEN SHADINC.

QLA8S HOUSES.

Convenient, Inexpensive, Easily
Bummer, And can then be easily wi

For Fixing Bloom in Azaleas,

Ac., and for Cut Flowers.

Lasts all the
off. 1*., part 1/8.

HUCHES’
FLORAL CEMENTj^

A great boon to Florists and all lovers of Flowers. Dries
instantly. Sold in bottles, Is. A 2s. Per post, 3d. extra.

HUGHES’ STYPTIC

For Preventing Vines Bleeding after ?™ nin S- .
Very effectual in preventing the flow of sap in Vin es bei ng
wasted. In bottles, 1/6 and 2/6. Per post, 8d. extra.

For Destroying jtetleTcock roaches, U11 p il C C*
Crickets, Buga, Fleas, Mosquitos, Ac. 11U UII tv

TROPICAL BEETLE POWDER

Most effectual in Greenhouses,—for Animals *nd Bed
Clothing. Price 6d., Is. A 2s. fid. Per post, 3d. extra.

A Treatise on FIR TREE OIL as en Insecticide, and
on the uses and application of the above prepara¬
tions sent POST FREE, on receipt of address, by

E. GRIFFITHS HUGHES,

VIOTORIA & CATEATON 8TREE f , MAN0HE8TER.

Certain Sudden DEATH

Caterpillars, Ants, Worms, &o.

FIR TREE OIL

INSECTICIDE ( IN WATEr)

For destroying *LL INSECTS & PARASITKS

that infest Trees and Plants, whether at the Roots or on the
Foliage. It cures Mildew and Blight on Ki™t or Foliage, and
a weak solution Kills all Vegetable Grubs, Turnip Fly , Ac-
Clears grapes from Mildew, or Mealy Bug withoutaffectl^
the bloom. Thickened with a little clay, m*k«a «ood wnnter
dressing. Destroys Lice and Flei m on Sf*—

Bold by Seedsmen and Chemists, la. 6d., 2s. 6cL, and •

Bottle. Per post, 3d. extra. Per gaUon 12s. 6d., or less m
larger quantities.

A Treatise on FIR TREE OIL, as
cide, its application to plants Animus,

sent Post Free on Receipt of address, by the
Manufacturer,

E. GRIFFITHS HUGHES, Manchester.

Wholesale -.-HOOPER ft CO.; CORRY. SOPER,^JWLER,
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New YorkROLKER ft SONS. _

QA DEVONSHIRE FERNS, many varieties,

CTX. with botanical and English names. 12 stamps (ree.-
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CAMELLIAS, with five to eight buds. Bushy

'J plants, 18 Inches high, named, 2s. each; Azaleas, named,
20 buds, 15 inches high, 12 inches diameter, 2s. each; Ole¬
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Is. 6d. each ; Dracaenas, 3 sorts, Is. each ; Ericas, 1 foot high,
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/CPRIZES for PLANTS and FLOWERS.—

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JOHN JARDINE, Jiul, Robertson-place, K ilm arnock, N.B.

CINERARIAS, choice strain, ready for flower-

VJ ing-pots, 2s.; smaller ones, transplanted. Is. 6d. doz.;
Primulas, nice healthy plants. 1 b. 6d. doz. ; Maiden-hair Fern,
grown in coolhouse, strong, healthy plants. Is. each, free.—
JAMES TAYLOR, Florist. Stauwix, Carlisla

■□LOWERS AT CHRISTMAS. — White

-L Roman Hyacinths, fine sound bulbs, 2s. 6d. per doz., free
by parcels post: Paper White Narcissus, 2s doz. Pot now for
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and catalogue of superior Primulas. Cinerarias, Cyclamen,
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Granville Nursery, Lewisham, Kent _

prNEST TOBACCO CLOTH AND PAPER,

J- at 8d. and 9d. per lb.; 28 lb., 18s. Special quotations for
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J.

C. STEVENS, HORTICULTURAL,

SCIENTIFIC, and NATURAL HISTORY SALE
ROOMS, 38, King Street, Covenfc Garden, London. Esta¬
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A S SUPPLIED TO THE ROYAL GARDENS,

ii the leading Gentry, and Florists of the United Ktagdom.
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POCOA-NUT FIBRE REFUSE, 18. 3d. per

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rail, 30s.: Best Brown Fibrous Peat, 5s. ner suck, 5 for .

Sand! li. T &± Je?*bushel; Fibrous ^

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, TT IS THE TIME TO PURCHASE

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VEGETABLE

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YARDS superior, extra strong,
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’UrbMa-champaigm

1

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

SEPTEMBER 13, 1884.

No. 288.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

ALPINE POPPIES.

The alpine Poppies are strictly hardy peren¬
nials, but, like a good many other alpine
perennials, they are liable to perish. It is,
therefore, best to raise seedlings annually in
order to keep up a good stock of plants. Seeds
are abundantly produced, and should be
gathered and sown as soon as ripe in pots in a
frame, or under a handlight, so that by the
autumn the seedlings will have grown strong
enough to withstand the winter. Papaver
alpinum and its varieties are essentially stock

? ;arden plants, but P. nudicaule is a capital plant
or growing in borders, and there are few prettier
sights than a large and well-grown mass of
seedlings, representing all the varied colours of
this Poppy. The best soil is a moderately rich
and light loam for P. nudicaule, but
P. alpinum is better in a poorer soil. Both
must have fully exposed positions, and the
soil must be well drained m order to secure

SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS.

The time has arrived when attention must
be directed to Dutch and other bulbs and v
their uses. The autumn catalogues of
bulbs contain lists of suitable subjects from
which to make a judicious and useful selec¬
tion. Take the Snowdrop, Crocus, Tulip,
Scilla, and Hyacinth, for instance, and
what a charming display can be made with
these. In my opinion, no garden is com¬
plete without its permanent oed or line of
Crocuses. Many a bed and border can
have a margin of these if only a little care
be exercised at the time digging has to be
done. Last spring I planted one of these

S ermanent lines, and this is how it was
one : The soil (mostly a good yellow loam)
was taken out to the depth of 10 inches,
and at the bottom of the trench 3 inches
of good decomposed manure was laid. On ^
the top of this was put an inch of fine sandy J

soil from a potting bench, and on the top of ]

this a line of good sound Crocus bulbs was
planted, mixed colours being used—yellow,
blue, striped, white, and edged; then
2 inches of siftings from the potting bench
were put on the bulbs, and the trench filled
up with loam. Though planting was not
done until the beginning of January, it was
surprising how strongly these bulbs grew,
and how grandly they flowered ; and next
spring they will be certain to make a fine
display. This is one of many ways in which
permanent plantations of Crocuses and
other bulbs can be laid down. Snowdrops
can be used for forming permanent patches ; one

Then there is the gorgeous Anemone fulgens, posed of by auction in March and even as late
one of the earliest of spring flowers, a plant that as April, while if they had been potted or planted

acre. Scillas and Tulips do well planted out in
patches, but some care is required that they are
placed in good soil, so that they may have some
chance of establishing themselves and making a
good start. Hyacinths that have been grown
m pots, if planted out as soon as their flowers
wither, will last a long time, provided they be

S lanted with care. They cannot be expected to
o well if planted in any odd corner, without
due provision for their well being. It is
customary to fill beds with Hyacinths and
Tulips, so as to make the garden look gay in
spring, and prevent that nakedness common
to many gardens at this season of the year.
Hyacinths are sold in certain varieties of
dwarf growth and early-flowering character,
and these make charming beds. When they are
lifted from the beds they are generally planted
out in a kind of nursery or reserve ground,
and then they come in very useful for cutting
from the following season. And so with Tulips;
for there are oertain varieties of the early-
flowering section whioh oan be obtained at a
moderate cost, and which make charming beds, |
and afterwards cojpo In usefully in various ways,

Digitized fr.

Google

requires to be put into a good sandy loam, at tne proper season tneir roots wouia nave
where it does well and blossoms freely. Tri- been in active operation by that time. When
teleia uniflora is a pretty white-flowered spring bulbs are potted late they push flower-spikes
plant, that makes pretty patches in the second and roots simultaneously, but neither attain the
row of a mixed border. vigour exhibited in the case of early potted bulbs;

This is such i large subject that it seems indeed, the roots formed at the base of the stems
only possible to touch the fringe of it. But, seem to be the principal feeders. Having a
as many person* do something in the way of large number of Dulbs last season that were
window’ gardening, we may be excused if we potted late, I examined them after flowering,
say a little about the adaptability of spring- and found generally that even when the pot was
flowering plants for window boxes. It has full of roots they were nearly all stem roots ;
been said of window boxes, within and without, very few issued from the base of the bulb, while
that “they are to tl e medium house natural in the case of others which I had grown and
pictures of merit beyond the Rubenses which flowered for several years the roots from the
garnish the walls of a millionaire.” Without bulb were stout and vigorous, and when
depriving themselves of the service of any of the potted directly after flowering were soon actively
ola kinds of plants they have been accustomed at work in the new soil.

to, yet how suggestive of usefulness are flower Another point worthy of note in my case was

the readiness with which these late-potted
bulbs fell into ill-health. I allude to that
burnt-up appearance which they present
more particularly in hot, showery weather,
' - , during which the leaves at the bottom of

v -» v . . the stem first turn yellow and then brown,

L 'J &EU rn-- the affection gradually mounting upward

H' ^ i till the buds are attacked and drop off, when

jjHf y the whole plant looks as if it had been

, scalded. After flowering I found that,

A .jj though a good spike of flowers had been

\ ftvfcvwl f produced, there were but a few partially

\> ^ decayed scales to mark the site of tne bulb,

" and * n every case, even if the bulb was

hSmL / ,, 'VrV?;- — still entire, it was much smaller than when

A ~ first potted. After throwing away all

V4r L ^ decaying bulbs, the rest were potted and

tt*. placed in a cold frame, where they are

now pushing up spikes, but in most cases so
^ weakly that but a small percentage of bloom

^ a will be produced. However, from past ex-

■ v perience I am convinced that when once

) r established they will grow and flower

|fcj every year without any trouble, provided

- they are potted as soon as the flowering

Some years ago I obtained a smallcollec-
tion different varieties of Lilium

(ft. • auratum, among which several have greatly

increased in size, while others are neither
larger nor smaller than they were half-a-
dozen years ago, though they flower well
MR each season. They are all in pots kept in

a cold frame during winter and placed in
RR the greenhouse in summer. If bulbs of this

# Lily could arrive in England about Novem-

M Hi ber, and be then potted or planted out, I

f ™ think we should hear much less about their

mortality than we now do, as they would
Alpine Poppy (Papaver nudicaule). then be well established before the summer

set in. The same remark holds good
regarding all kinds of Lilies. If kept dry
roots. Those household names, Tulips and till February or March their energies are ex-
Hyacinths, should everywhere become “window hausted ; while if placed in soil several roots
facts,” to delight those within, and all passers- will certainly be sacrificed when removed. The
by without. For front rows in window boxes, common white Lily (L. c&ndidum), which of late
an edging of Scilla bifolia or S. sibirica can be years has been largely imported early in
employed; Bulbocodium vernum or Crocuses, autumn, commences to grow as soon as re-
with Triteleia uniflora or Jonquils as a second ceived, and therefore should be planted at
line, with stately Hyacinths tor a central line, once, otherwise, like others if removed after
and at the back Solomon’s Seal, Polyanthus growth has been commenced, the bulbs will be
Narcissus, Spiraea japonica, and Tournesol sure to suffer.

Tulips, all of which afford pleasing contrasts. Although these remarks apply more par-
Then a few bulbs of Ixias, Sparaxis, Gladioli, ticularly to Lilies, they might be extended to
&c., dotted amidst the summer Pelargoniums, all bulbs disposed of during the spring months
would make a pleasing combination. But many in a dormant state. These we frequently see
modes of employing these plants will suggest lying about when their roots should be in active
themselves to the intelligent cultivator. operation. In the majority of cases, the cm-

R, D. brvo flower being in a perfect state within the
- bulb, the difference the first season is not very

PLANTING BULBS LATE. ft* ^bX^Khe^ieTc

Complaints are continually made that imported dwindles away to each an extent that it is too
bulbs of Lilium auratum which arrive in Eng- weak to flower. In forcing such things as
land in such quantities seldom survive after Tulips, Hyacinths, $c., if put into heat before
flowering, their whole eqergies being apparently they are well rooted the flowers seldom expand
exhausted in the production and subsequent properly. In short, the great secret belonging
development of their blossoms. Their late to successful bulb culture is having plenty of
arrival in this country has in my opinion a good healthy root? before the flowering season coin
deal to do with this, Great numbers are dfs- 'original from Wj ?•

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

322

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 13, 1884.

Double-flowered Golden Feather.—
The pretty lace-leaved Golden Feather, usually
called Pyrethrum aureum laciniatum, has proved
with us to be the best white-flowered bedding
plant we have. Without any attention, it has
been a dwarf and compact mass of white flowers
the whole season, and the flowers are so freely
produced that one can scarcely see the foliage
except at the margin of the beds, where the pale,
lemon-coloured leaves make a pretty fringe. I
am by no means enraptured with Golden Feather,
seeing it is so overdone in many gardens ; but
white flowers have so softening a character
amongst brilliant summer blossoms, that any
plant is welcome which produces them freely,
and I feel sure that anyone giving the double
Pyrethrum a trial—not as a foliage, but as a
flowering plant—will be well satisfied with it.
It keeps sending up a continuous succession of
flowering shoots from the base in such a way
that a dense mass of double button-like flowers
is produced the whole season. It is as easily
raised from seed or by division of the old plants
as the ordinary form ; but whereas old plants
are of very little service in a fine-foliage point
of view, from their running up to flower so per¬
sistently, in this case they are very useful. In
a cut state this plant is also serviceable. The
shoots average from 9 inches to 1 foot in height;
and, as white flowers are so effective in all kinds
of floral decorations, a plant that produces an
unfailing supply is ever welcome, whether for
beds or herders. Although the flowers are as
perfectly double as those of the old-fashioned
Bachelor’s Buttons, it seeds as freely as the
single kind, and reproduces itself freely with a
minimum of attention.—G.

Humea elegans.— This fine, fragrant, and
most graceful plant is not so much used in
gardens as it might be. We meet with it at
large places, but generally speaking it is looked
upon as a greenhouse plant, but where grown in
this way it is much oftener spoiled than not. It
really does well in a good and rather light soil
in summer, and it would succeed well in many
a border that at present knows it not. We have
seen a narrow-leaved variety somewhat undu¬
lated on the edges that appears to be a distinct
and useful plant. Both can be raised from seed
sown in heat in early spring, and the plants
grown on in pots, and hardened off by such time
as the season would admit of their being planted
out in the open ground.—II.

Tobacco plants in the garden. — Im¬
posing looking plants, like the Tobacco and
Castor-oils, have been looked upon as suitable
only for the sub-tropical garden, but this is
surely a mistake. There is no difficulty in
cultivating Tobacco plants, provided they be
planted out in soil rich enough to assist them in
a vigorous development. The Virginian
Tobacco is the best; this is a stately plant,
growing to a height of 7 feet, and when well
grown bearing very fine heads of bloom and
magnificent leaves 20 inches long by 15 inches
broad. There are noble objects associated with
Hollyhocks, Dahlias, Sunflowers, and such like
in the back row of a broad border of mixed
plants.—R. D.

Bocconia cordata. —For planting in semi¬
wild places this is an excellent plant, as it is
not only highly ornamental, 1 ut it is of so
robust a nature as to enable it to take care of
itself. It is strictly herbaceous, as it dies
down during the autumn and sends up fresh
stems in the spring, which attain a height of
6 feet or more. It bears panicles of creamy
white flowers from the top of the stems, and
when in flower the plant has a fine appearance.
The foliage is large, deeply cut, and of a pleasing
pale green on the upper surface and silvery
white beneath. It is well worthy of room in
any large shrubbery border, a situation where
it is very telling, and also looks well as an
isolated specimen on a lawn, where it soon
becomes a grand object. Like all fine-foliaged
plants, it likes good soil, although it will grow
almost anywhere. It is easily increased by
division or offsets. Young shoots spring up
freely, and may be taken up and removed when
a few inches high.—S. D.

The white Lily (L. candidum). — This
lovely Lily, unquestionably the finest of the
hardy section, grows with exceptional luxu¬
riance about Gosport, large clumps of it being
seen in nearly every cottage garaen. The sou
is very light and stony, and consequently well

drained. Last autumn I took up some old
clumps of it that had not been disturbed for
years, and planted the largest bulb singly
between rows of Red Currant bushes, and they
appeared to enjoy the shelter and shade thus
afforded them, as they not only produced the
finest spikes of bloom I ever saw, but, what is
perhaps of greater importance considering the
size and vigour of the bulbs, they retained their
lower leaves on the flower-stems quite green
until the new leaves were pushing up ; whereas
in hot, sunny positions the leaves on the flower-
stems are usually withered, tven before the
flowers fade. I would recommend admirers of
this delicate and stately flower to try a portion
of their stock in various aspects and positions,
and I feel sure that a partially shaded one will
give the best results. Briefly, this Lily likes a
porous, light, sandy soil, shelter from scorching
sunrays and violent winds, end, above all, trans¬
planting when the old leaves begin to fade, or,
rather, just as new ones are about to push up.
The resting period is very brief.—G. R.

Silvery-leaved Sunflower (Helianthus
argophyllus).—Now that the annual and peren¬
nial Sunflowers are in full bloom, it may be well
to direct attention to one seldom seen, though
it is one of the finest of all. It is an annual, but
possesses several advantages over the common
kinds, inasmuch as the flowers are produced more
abundantly, the foliage is handsomer, and it
makes a finer bushy specimen, as will be seen by
the annexed engraving. It usually grows from

Silvery-leaved Sunflower (Helianthus argophyllus).

4 feet to 5 feet high, branched to the base, and

each branch bears, as a rule, several flower-heads
about 3 inches across. Their colour is bright
yellow, with a conspicuous disc of blackish
purple. The whole plant is clothed with a grey¬
ish pubescence, especially the younger branches,
thus giving it a silvery appearance. It is
specially well suited forculture in small gardens ;
it is not so coarse in growth as the common Sun¬
flower, and, moreover, should it be desirable
that the plants be kept dwarf, that can be done
by stopping the shoots. It was introduced
some years ago from Texas by Messrs. Vilmorin,
of Paris. Another annual Sunflower, H.
cucumerifoiius, from the same region, is also a
desirable species.—W. G.

Tritonia aurea. —This, when grown in
pots, is often seen in a poor, wretched condi¬
tion. It is very subject to red spider, which
gets on the leaves, and not only disfigures them,
but quite spoils the plant’s growth. When
planted out this insect seldom attacks it; and
not only does the foliage remain clean, but the
plants are always much stronger, and produce
more than double the bloom than plants in pots
would do. The spikes of this are of great value
for cutting, as, besides being so light and
elegant-looking, the flowers are unique in form
and colour, and continue to open in water.
As the bulb3 of Tritonia aurea are not quite
hardy, it is necessary to plant in a warm, sheltered
place, the most suitable situation being close up
against the foot of a south wall, or immediately
in front of a greenhouse or other glass structure,
as there the soil gets a little warmed from the
pipes inside, which prevents frost penetrating

and killing or injuring the plants. To make
sure of keeping frost out and having the bulbs
safe, it is a good plan, before winter sets in, to
mulch the ground above them with Cocoa-nut
fibre or half-rotten leaves, as both are capital
non-conductors, and frost must be very sharp to
find its way through a few inches of either. In
planting the Tritonia, which may be done from
pots at any time, or early in spring if the roots
are at rest, plenty of sand should be used,
which, from insuring quick drainage around the
bulbs, saves them from rot, a malady they are
subject to when allowed to come in contact
with the wet earth while lying dormant in
winter.—S. D.

Late-struck Pinks. —Pinks are now largely
used in a cut state, and the time at which cut¬
tings are taken influences their flowering. For
instance, in order to get plants for forcing, cut¬
tings are put in as early as possible, and are
taken from plants that have been forced. The
mid-season lot are taken when the plants are in
bloom, which is the time that florists select, and
probably the best for exhibitors. I have put in
Pink and Carnation cuttings at all seasons, and
find an advantage in doing so, as late-struck
cuttings bloom proportionately late, and are very
useful for cutting from late in summer.—H.

The Flame Flowers.— The Tritomas, or
Torch Lilies, as they are sometimes called,
are among the noblest of all the flowers of
autumn. A hundred of their red-tipped wands
are now blazing in the sunshine before me, and
no other garden flowers equal them at this
season for bold effect. Seen in the distance,
amid the silvery plumes of Arundo conspicua
and golden Sunflowers, they are gorgeous, and
nearer the eye they lend their colour well to
brighten both beds and borders, where Lilium
auratum, Phloxes, and clumps of bright green
Maize bear them company. Next year we hope
to have a bold bed or group of them on the Grass,
edged with the rosy Sedum Fabaria. Perhaps
we shall plant auratum Lilies in between the
clumps for the sake of contrast, and surface the
remaining bare earth with Violas, purple and
white or yellow, as the case may be. On islands
and near the margins of ponds or lakes large
groups of these brilliant Torch Flowers have a
most effective appearance, especially if planted
so that their flowers are reflected in the water
on still, clear, sunny days. Once well planted
in deep rich soil, they will require no culture for
years, except an annual top-dressing of manure
or leaf-mould, where such is plentiful.—F.

Lifting and storing Gladioli. — To

what extent bulbs of any kind suffer from being
for any length of time out of the ground it is
hardly possible, perhaps, to tell; but in the
case of Gladioli I am persuaded that they do
suffer from this cause to a serious extent. In
my own practice I therefore make it a point to
leave them in the ground as long as it is safe to
do so, and the character of the plant shows
that this treatment must be right. The
Gladiolus is an autumn-flowering plant, and
when in flower, if in a healthy condition, the
foliage is quite green, and remains so for some
considerable time after the flowers fade. I find
in dealing with a rather large number of Gladioli
that in the case of all vigorous examples they
are most reluctant to go to rest, for neither
heavy autumn rains nor a few degrees of frost
have any effect on them, and frequently I leave
them alone in the soil until I am afraid to trust
them longer out of doors. I have more than
once proved, w’hen the corms have been 3 inches
or 4 inches under the surface, that 10 degs. of
frost do not injure them. I therefore frequently
leave them out until the middle of November,
and in the case of choice sorts still green at that
date I have left them undisturbed a fortnight
later, and only lifted them when severe frost
has been likely to set in, and I have always
found that corms so treated produced the
strongest spikes of bloom the following year. I
have frequently had young stock raised from
spawn green and growing in mild winters in the
middle of December. 1 therefore maintain that
it is not a good plan to lift them earlier. The
earliest date should be the middle of November,
except in colder districts, where winter sets in
earlier than it usually does in the west of
England. The next important step is not to
hurry them after they are lifted. When we
have decided to lift our stock, the beds are
gone over and the stems, cut down to within

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UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Sept. 18, 1884]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

323

9 inches or 1 foot of the bulb, and I consider
that the piece of stem thus left assists the ripen¬
ing process. When lifted they should be laid
on the floor of a dry shed or loft secure from
frost, and if they be three or four thick it
is of no consequence. Thus situated, they
will ripen slower, which is better than
hastening the drying process. After they
have laid in this state for a fortnight they
may have their stems cut clean away from
the bulbs. The young bulblets should also be
rubbed off the base of the btlib and the old roots
cut off. The cooler their winter quarters are
the better, provided they are dry and frost is
excluded. Where the number of bulbs is not
large, they may be put into paper bags and
suspended to the roof of a dry shed or room. In
every case it is desirable to keep the air from
them as much as possible. In our case, having
a large stock, we place them in flower-pots and
put a layer of sawdust over the top of them to
exclude the air. The pots are placed on the
floor of a loft, and the spawn is treated in the
same way.—J. C. C.

How a small garden was made.—
There have been in Gardening remarks on lay¬
ing out and directions for the cultivation of
villa gardens in the suburbs of London and
other towns. Perhaps the account of a success,
at least, partial and present, may not be unin¬
teresting, though some of its causes may not
again occur. Six years ago last March I pur¬
chased a small semi detatched villa just finished,
the garden walls not completed ; the space for a
garden was filled with broken bricks, stones,
mortar, and rubbish, and had a pool in it. My
eldest daughter and myself are fond of garden¬
ing, but my youngest cares nothing for it, but im¬
plored us to make it green. We employed a man to
pick out the stones and rubbish, found stiff clay
under, procured some mould, and put plenty of
ashes ; all the green of that year resulted from
ILunner Beans and Parsley that prospered
amazingly. The house faces the north, so the
back garden is sunny, and we planted vines and
a Myrtle against the back of the house. Visitors
now who go into our small back parlour which
has a rather large window, say, “You live in
a grove.” The vines are cut so as to border
the window, and have large clusters of Grapes
higher up. The central object, about half-a-
mile distant, is a tower of a fine church sur¬
mounted by a green hill, and a range of hills
four or five miles beyond. The brick wall is
hid near the house and adjoining villa by a tall
and slender Hawthorn, a Fig tree no higher
than the wall; the wall has yellow Stone-crop at
the top. Then a small Apple tree, and a Laurel,
a path round the house, a Lilac tree, and
clumps of Rhubarb. The wall further down is
quite covered with Blackberry bushes ; there
is a stand for flowers &c., and a row of Rasp¬
berries quite hide from the window the small bit
for vegetables. Now, to show what a trifling
degree of art has done, let me say that over our
wall is a field large enough to hold a thousand
or two of people when flower shows, &c., are
held in it; then opposite our window some
cottages in gardens, but, as the ground slopes
down, only the tops of Apple trees are seen
joining the trees of the church. But in reality,
though invisible through the downward slope,
there are some small streets, and one long one,
full of trade carriages and trams. The tall
chimney of a coal-pit is hid by a Willow kept
high and slender.—G.

Succulents in flower beds.— These we
have long used as bedders, and they are so
generally admired that one regrets that many of
them do not belong to the hardy plant section ;
however, they are far more hardy than are very
many bedding plants, and are really so very little
trouble to increase and winter that we shall con¬
tinue to use them. Very fortunately the most
appropriate plants for carpeting the ground
beneath them are quite hardy; hence we find
tittle difficulty in transforming a summer succu¬
lent arrangement into a winter one, simply by
carefully lifting with a hand-fork all the tender
succulents, and in their place putting in small
ahrnbs and hardy Heaths ; thus the groundwork of
Madams and Saxifrages remains intact, and the
bed is at once clothed in winter costume. To
keep in good order for the longest time, and to
produce a bright and novel effect, we have found
none to excel those named in the following list:
Yucca aloifolia variegata, Etdreveria metalllca.

Digitized by CjOGgiC

Echeveria glauca metallica, Sempervivum
arboreum variegatum, S. urbicum, S. canariense,
S. Donckelaari, Agave americana variegata. All
these being large growers are suitable for central,
standard, or pot plants, and the following, which
are smaller for margins or edgings, and if
thought desirable for groundwork, viz.,
Echeveria secunda, E. s. glauca, E. Peacocki,
E. farinosa, Sempervivum calcareum, S. mon-
tanum, S. arachnoideum, Saxifraga rosularis,
S. hirta, Sedmn acre elegans, Sedum glaucum,
S. Lydium, &c. To my mind there is something
so incongruous in attempting to grow in the
same bed succulents and ordinary bedding
plants, that I may be pardoned for saying to
any who have done it, “Leave off the practice,”
and to any intending to begin it, “ Don’t!”—H.

Bartonia aurea. —This Bartonia belongs
to the Loasa family, and is nearly allied to
Loasa itself. It is such a showy, half-hardy
annual, that it ought not to be omitted from
the seed list of annuals for the ensuing season.
It grows from 1 foot to 2 feet high under good
culture, and bears numerous showy blossoms
from 2 inches to 3 inches across, of a lustrous
golden yellow, which expand best in bright sun¬
shiny weather. It should be sown in groups or
patches where it is to remain in light soil, sandy

Bartonia aurca. Flowers yellow.

loam being the best, choosing a warm situation,
where it can be fully exposed, as the plant is
very impatient of excessive moisture to the sun.
The seed should be sown in the open border in
April, and the seedlings should be thinned out a
foot or more apart, so as to allow the plants to
develop themselves. As the seeds are very
small, care should be taken not to bury them
too deeply. This Bartonia is seldom used in
any way but as a patch in a border, but well
grown it is one of the best of annuals for a bold
mass or bed, relieved by tall, slender plants
through it here and there.

Arundo conspicua. —At this season, long
before the Pampas Grass throws up its silvery
plumes, this graceful Arundo is most effective.
It is to all intents and purposes an early, grace¬
ful, and small kind of Pampas Grass, and,
blooming as it does along with the brilliant
Flame Flowers, it is well deserving of a place in
all good gardens. We are rather neglectful
of really good and distinct ornamental Grasses;
even those most graceful of all grassy shrubs,
the Bamboos, are tolerated rather than really
welcomed and well grown in our gardens. So
is it also with the Eulalias—graceful Japanese
Grasses, of which there are green, barred, and
striped forms, all hardy, all graceful, all
beautiful. The Siberian Melic Grass, again, is

a noble plant, stately, and fine in colour during
the late autumn months, but as yet but rarely
seen in the best of gardens. Wo may say the
same of the Pheasant’s-tail Grass (Apera arun-
dinacea), which Mr. Smith sent us some time
ago, one of the best of all Grasses for cutting,
but it requires a warm sandy border or a shel¬
tered position near a wall. The Arundo, the
Eulalias, and the Bamboos, however, well repay
care and culture.

Mixed flower borders.— Though by no
means an advocate for the annihilation of
summer bedding out, I am this season more
than ever convinced that it has been over¬
done, particularly in the direction of tender
plants that need so much attention and
space in their preparation, and yet con¬
tinue but a very few weeks in good con¬
dition. The greatest bulk of our bedders now
belong to the hardier section, and these will
another year be much increased, as will also the
mixed system of planting, both in the bedded
out and the herbaceous parts of the garden.
This resolve results from trials made on a small
scale this season that in every way have proved
satisfactory, even in association with formal
and geometrically designed beds. The centres
of the larger beds have been given up to suit¬
able shrubs, Phormiums, Sedum spectabile,
single Dahlias, Fuchsias, Acacias, Grevilleas,
and Abutilons, with an undergrowth of Violas,
Ageratums, tuberous Begonias, &c. The bed¬
ding out proper is confined to the outer portions
of the beds, the designs being worked out prin¬
cipally with hardy plants, such as Sedums,
Herniarias, and dwarf Veronicas, and, taking
the hint from the present effect of the herbaceous
beds, we shall next year add to the plants suit¬
able for the centres of these beds the Japanese
Anemones, Rudbeckia Newmanni, Hyacinthus
candicans, Papaver nudicaule, the perennial
Sunflowers, Pentstemons, and Antirrhinums, as
all these are now, and have been for some time
past, in grand flower. I consider the Japanese
Anemone infinitely superior to the best single
Dahlia, and the perennial Sunflowers a thousand
per cent, better than their cogeners of the
annual section, which, if they were not just now
fashionable, 1 should say, do not grow them.
—W.

Campanula pyramidalis.— Having more
plants of both the blue said white varieties of
this Campanula than are needed for pot culture,
the surplus was early in May planted out in the
herbaceous borders, where they have and are
still doing such good service, that our only
regret has been that they were so few in number.
I may be advertising my own ignorance by
expressing my belief that this Campanula has
generally been regarded as only suitable for
pot culture and greenhouse decoration ; at any
rate such have hitherto been my own impres¬
sions, but they are so no longer, for in future
it will be placed very nearly at the head of the
list of plants needed for the herbaceous garden
Perhaps I ought to add that the seeds of the
plants now flowering were sow r n in April, 1882,
and the plants for next year last April.; they
are being grown on in pots in the open air, and
by-and-by they will be afforded the shelter of
a frame for the winter, though I doubt not they
would stand if planted in the borders at once ;
at any rate we shall try a few and report results
in due course.

Sunflowers.— I was much interested in reading
"W. H. B., East Molesey’s,” remarks about Helianthus
multiflorus fl.-pl., as the same thing has happened in my
garden. Of two plants which I have had for several years
one has this summer produced single flowers, with a
darkish eye, on every stem except two, on which the
flowers are double as usual. This plant is easily increased
by division of the root late in the autumn.—G. A. N.,
ButMgh, Glastonbury.

A result of “Gardening” tuition.—
Allow me to acknowledge my indebtedness to
your paper. When I first had a garden I
scarcely knew how to grow a plant; now my
garden is the admiration of my friends, who
cannot understand how I can grow such a
quantity of flowers in so small a garden. I am
able to cut five or six good bouquets every
week, no matter what weather. I have no
glass, only cold frames for cuttings in winter, so
my gardening is all out of doors, and I owe
most of my knowledge to Gardening Illus-

TBAT*D.~*fy ite'5^' 8 '-y OF ILLiNOI AT

■URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

324

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 13, 1884.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

The tenderer kinds of soft-wooded plants, such
as Salvias, that have been plunged outside,
should now be got into cold frames, or other
vacant structures, to prevent them from getting
damaged by rough winds and heavy rains.

Pelargoniums. —The stock of zonal Pelar¬
goniums intended for winter flowering should
now be placed in a house where a little fire-heat
can be used during dull weather in order to
dispel damp. The whole of the stock of the
show and fancy kinds should now be started
freely into growth, and will require to be kept
close to the glass in frames, or on shelves in
the greenhouse, to keep the growth sturdy.
These must be watered with care from this date
onwards through the winter.

Cyclamens. —These should now be starting
or growing freely. Keep them on a damp
bottom for another week or two. Attend to the
potting of herbaceous Calceolarias and Primulas,
and thin out Mignonette and other annuals
early, as if these are allowed to be crowded when
in a young state they are seldom of much value
for flowering.

Guernsey Lily.— This very serviceable,
easily managed autumn-flowering plant is much
less used than it deserves to be. Where a few
dozens are grown and now placed in a brisk
heat they will quickly throw up large heads
of red flowers that have a handsome appearance
on the plants, which may be used when in bloom
for the decoration of conservatories, and they
are equally valuable in a cut state when mounted
in the form of single flowers. They may be bought
very cheaply in the market, and are excellent
fot windows, &c.

Chrysanthemum plants in pots should now
receive their final tying, using sticks enough to
support the plants and keep them from being 1
broken by the wind. As soon as the flowers
are set thin out the shoots ; it is a mistake, even
for ordinary decorative purposes, to allow the
lateral flowering shoots to remain crowded, as
the size of the blooms is thereby much reduced,
and in texture they are so much thinner as not
to last nearly the length of time they do when
no more flowers are left on the plants than
they can properly support. When the pots are
plunged, or even if standing on the surface of
the ground, they will root through the bottom
if not moved occasionally ; to prevent this it is
a good plan to turn them round once a fortnight,
for if the roots be permitted to take much hold
of the soil on which they stand they must neces¬
sarily be broken when the plants are taken in¬
doors, and ruptures in that way give them a
check which eauses imperfection in the flowers.
The open centres that badly-managed Chrysan¬
themums so often exhibit are mainly attribut¬
able to the checks which the roots receive, or
being allowed to bear too many blooms. Give
plenty of manure water now ; they will bear it
in large quantities, and stronger than almost
any other plants.

Veronicas. —Where these are propagated in
winter or spring, and then planted in the open
ground with a view to lifting and transplanting
them to pots for autumn and winter flower¬
ing, it is not well to defer the taking them
up too long. All plants treated in this
way should be turned out in soil sufficiently
sandy and light to admit of their being taken
up with no more mutilation of their roots than
may be unavoidable. Although these Veronicas
are naturally such free growers that they re¬
cover the loss of fibres much quicker than many
plants, yet with those that come into flower
early in autumn, such as V. Andersoni, injury
to their roots more or less interferes with their
blooming. They are subjects that require a good
deal of water, and will bear the soil to be
thoroughly moistened as soon as potted, in a
way that would be fatal to more delicate-rooted
plants ; they should be set close under a north
wall or similar position, so as to be out of reach
of the sun for ten days or a fortnight after they
are taken up ; or if there happens to be room in
a house or pit where they can be kept a little
close, it will be still better.

Camellias should be at once got into their
winter quarters ; they likewise will succeed in
a position where there is less light than many
hard-wooded subjects require. Nothing adds
rnore to the appe^wcp of thpap plants than

Digitized by (jOOOlt

keeping the leaves clean ; it is also essential to roots are active and in good health, and manure
their health that no accumulations of dust be should be placed on the soil above the rootlets
allowed upon them, for if they be affected at all to give vigour to the blooming buds. This
with brown scale, the dirt will stick to the plant exhausts the soil by its profuse blooming
glutinous excrement of the insect, and this, if every year, and merits an annual mulching at
not removed, will cause the foliage to turn this season, which it repays with interest at the
yellow and fall off. If infested with white scale, very season when its white flowers are most
the best implement for removing it from the welcome. In ordinary bulbs for the new year
wood is an ordinary tooth-brush, after which it is worth remembering that many of the cheap
sponge the leaves one by one on both the upper Lilies are as good for greenhouse work as the
and under surfaces. Wash the pots of all more gaudy Hyacinths and Tulips imported from
plants as they are taken inside, and remove Holland. All the Narcissi make lovely objects
any Moss that may have accumulated upon the when grown in pots, and especially the best of
soil. the Daffodils, Emperor, Empress, and Horsfieldi.

Flower Garden. The Scillas are also very beautiful when bloomed

Bedding plants will now be getting coarse inside, andsmall groups of half-a-dozen in a 4-inch
and rampant in growth unless checked by P 0 * rais f d in cold frames bloom much earlier
timely stopping and regulating, and the floral when planted out as they are coming into
display will be less brilliant; therefore endeavour bloom, and furnish bright spots of blue when
to make up for the reduction in quantity of that colour is secured in the open garden,
bloom by increased attention to tidiness and all Pansies. — We are just now putting in cuttings
the minor details of finish on which success or of these > ftnd lt ma y ™ wel1 a 8 am remark
failure in flower gardening so much depends. that the thlck > P lth y nower-stems are useless
The Grass must be frequently mowed and rolled, f ° r cuttings. The best are the slender growths
edgings clipped and weeded, and walks kept that usually come up thickly from the base of
clean, bright, and hard. Bring up any arrears the P lants when the old stem8 have 1)6611 P e gg ed
in the way of propagating by at once getting in down or removed. These can be pulled out with
all cuttings required. plenty of small rootlets attached to them, and

Where old plants ’ are kept for providing a when carefully put into boxes in fine soil they
stock of cuttings in spring, cut all the flowering speedily start into growth. A reddish-coloured
shoots in tolerably close, so that they may make aphis usually attacks them at this season, but it
young-growing shoots previous to being lifted. can be destroyed by dipping the cuttings in
Lobelias we find much more satisfactorily grown 8oa Py water before they are inserted,
from cuttings than from seed, and in order to Pentstemons.— These are now very gay in

get good stock plants they should be cut in herbaceous borders, and they will remain so for
pretty closely about a month before they are a long time. Few of our hardy flowering plants
lifted for potting. Any good Petunias that it continue to brave the wet and cold so long as
may be desirable to retain should be treated these do; it is, however, necessary to remove
in the same way, for at this time of the year the seed pods as the flowers fade, as they
there are seldom any good soft cuttings for pro- seriously cnpple the energies of the plants. The
pagating to be had, unless the plants have been Btems must also be supported with sticks as they
cut back for that purpose. require them. Cuttings may lie put in now if a

Hardy Flowers.— In the herbaceous garden large stock is required, but we prefer to wait
and on the rockeries a successful show in the untd October,
new year must be planned and prepared for Shrubbery,

during the next month or two. It will not do Now is a good time to decide on any altera-
to let things alone from year to year, else the tions that may be required in pleasure grounds,
weaker plants will succumb, and the stronger as the best time for the removal of shrubs, re¬
become sole possessors of the situation. To so laying turf, &c., is close at hand, and if there is
great an extent is this the case in rockeries such a thing as a slack season in gardening, it is
that it is almost necessary to take them to in autumn and the early winter months ;
pieces after four or five years, and to weed out therefore, all such additional work should be
the rank vegetation which has got deep hold of pushed on as early as possible, for if left until
every crevice and covered over every space. If spring there is a possibility either of its being
this be not done it will soon be found that abandoned, or the regular work thrown behind-
favourite plants become altogether lost. But hand. A most important subject to determine
not only is this the case, but it is well to go is what trees or shrubs are either to be cut down
over both the open garden and rockery at this altogether or reduced to reasonable limits if
season ; to trim off the clumps that are per- overgrown. This can be carried out in the
manent, to weed out and to replant in the re- winter, but a definite plan of operation should
serve garden, runners, and seedlings, and be decided on while the trees are in full leaf,
crowdea-oui plants, to examine all bulbs, It would also tend greatly to enhance the
taking out the excess, and seeing the rest pro- beauty of pleasure grounds if needless beds were
perly soiled and manured for their new flowering turfed over, and walks for which no necessity
time ; and filling up all gaps which will surely exists were done away with, as in proportion
follow after a summer’s bloom-time. to the extent of the gardens there should be

Seedlings raised during the summer, such as some broad, unbroken sweeps of turf, which,
Aquilegias, Primulas, Antirrhinums, Androsaces, if kept in good condition, is a never-failing
&c., should now be carefully planted out, and a source of what may be termed quiet beauty,
number of good plants of each should be potted Where the removal of shrubs is contemplated,
off and plunged in sand or ashes in cold frames, no time should be lost in making all necessary
so that you have double chances of saving your arrangements for such work, as September and
treasure through the winter months. In the October are favourable months for transplant-
same way every plant of value in the open ing, the earth being then still warm and the atmo-
garden and rockery should be duplicated, and sphere usually mild and moist, conditions
cuttings or offshoots placed in pots in cold altogether favourable for establishing the
frames as reserve stock for spring time. In our subjects transplanted before active growth
climate, and after recent experiences of hard ceases for the year. It is not a good plan to give
winter weather, it does not do to risk all in freshly planted trees or shrubs an unlimited
the open garden, so that if you want to be sure supply of water, as that water rather checks
of your stock of choice flowers, you must take than promotes root action by reducing the
the trouble of securing the stock by these pre- temperature of the soil. After one good soak-
cautions. If either fails you have the other in ing it will be found more efficacious to Byringe
reserve, and if all live you are the wealthier. the foliage in the evening, as by keeping the
All Sedums, Sempervivums, and Saxifrages leaves healthy as long as possible root action is
should be gone over. It is well to grow these induced sufficient to carry the trees through the
plants both in clumps and single crowns, for winter, and to start it with vigour in spring,
they have both beauty of mass and beauty of

individual form, the one being as well worth Fruit,

cultivating as the other. If the best crowns of Vines. —All late Grapes should now be nearly
these be picked out and planted apart, they ripe, and a dry air should be allowed to circu
grow into grand rosettes, and in due time flower, late freely about them when they have arrived
whilst in the mass they bloom but sparingly, at this state. Lateral growths should now be
and do not display their full beauty of iorm. In cut off vines of all descriptions ; late rods, witi
the same way the Sedu.ns and Sempervivums plenty of healthy foliage, will still produce the;:
will, come in useful if oarefully cultivated, shoots, but they must not be allowed to gro»
Christmas Roses should also be oarefully more than 1 inch or 2 inches, and should then
by rerjjoying the soil to ope that the he vs$ icvpd, % pwtteuljtv vinpiif?

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Sept. 13, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

325

clear of decayed leaves ; if they are left lying spongioles. Trees that do not require potting placed on their edges 1 foot or so from the wall,
about where ripe Grapes are hanging they may be placed where they can have plenty of but in nine cases out of ten the loosely
induce damp among the fruit. Do not light and air, with a gradual reduction in the suspended net will have the desired effect. Pay
allow inside borders to want water, even snpply of water, but anything approaching particular attention to the removal of breast-
though the Grapes are ripe; if there is any starvation or complete dryness must not be wood by cutting back to within one or two buds
fear of their shrivelling from want of it, better allowed at any time, not even when stone fruit of the base. Ease the ligatures on newly-
aacrifice a few by damp than this should happen, trees are completely at rest. Many Peach grafted trees, and see that the summer growths
After watering, either cover the border with trees cast their blossom buds in the spring are well secured to stakes,
mats or dry straw, both for the sake of neatness through being kept too dry through the winter, Strawberries.— The ground should now be

and in order to prevent rapid evaporation, and on this account the amateur who has not cleared, all the runners being cut away and
The earliest vines, on which the Grapes are to paid for his experience will do well to winter his removed to the refuse heap ; but, in doing this,
ripen in April and May, should be pruned at trees in a dry, sheltered, but airy place in the the old mistaken practice of cutting off a large
once, the borders renovated, and the house open air. Many of the better kinds of Pears portion of the leaves should by no means be
cleaned, or if they are to be painted the pre- pay well for culture in pots, and it is very followed. A thick mulching of littery manure
sent is the best time to do it. interesting to see the immense crops of fine applied in spring to Strawberry beds is most

Melons. —Increased artificial heat both top large fruit which small trees on the Quince beneficial in its effect in keeping down weeds,
and bottom will now be necessary to keep these stock bring to maturity. Choice kinds only, Where fresh plantations are required, and the land
in vigour, and the fruit must have the fullest such as Marie Louise, Beurr6 Supertin, Pitmas- did not happen to beat liberty in August, the best
exposure to light by tying aside any foliage that ton Duchesse, Glou Morceau, Belle de Noel, time for planting, rooted runners may now be
intercepts it. Though less water will now be Josephine de Malines, and that excellent Pear, taken up and planted 6 inches apart on a piece of
necessary than earlier in the season, avoid dry- Winter Nelis, should be potted, and these ground previously prepared by digging. These
ness, which is a sure precursor of loss of should be well prepared by annual lifting and can remain thus for the winter, and be removed
foliage and consequent insipidity of fruit. Free replanting in stiff loam out of doors, or maidens in spring to the positions which they are to
ventilation, full exposure to light, and an may be potted and plunged up to the rim for occupy permanently,
equable bottom heat never fail to ensure fruit twelve months before they are wanted. It may Vegetables,

of high flavour. The blooms of late plants be necessary to go over vigorous young trees for The month of September is an important one
should be fertilised, and as the advanced season the last time this season, and to remove or stop j n the vegetable garden. Storing Onions should
renders this crop somewhat uncertain, it will strong lateral growths, but from this time care he one of the first operations. Potato lifting
not do to wait for a number of flowers to be must De taken in the removal immediately above w ni have to be proceeded with. Ours are all
ready to fertilise at the same time ; on the con- a triple bud, as many Peach trees set wood buds lifted except Champions, which are swelling
trary, the first that apDears should be set. Keep sparingly from a few inches above the base to f a8 t. Immediately the Onion land is cleared,
the shoots thin, and those producing fruit the terminal point, and without a wood bud to ra k e it over and plant Cabbages, crow-bar
should be stopped at the first joint beyond the draw the sap blossom buds are useless. fashion, no digging being required.* Dig and

fruit. As soon as all are set encourage quick Hardy fruits. —The gathering of the well manure any south or west border at liberty,
growth by closing the house very early. With different kinds of hardy fruits will now require and plant winter Lettuce, Black Seeded, Brown
sun-heat, the temperature may advantageously daily attention. The early part of the day, as Cos, and Hick’s Cos being the hardiest and
be raised to 90 degs. for an hour or two. soon as the foliage is dry, is the best time to best varieties to plant. Earth up Celery on fine

Peaches. —In damp localities, where there gather Peaches and Nectarines, and to ensure dry days, and bo careful to press the soil round
is a difficulty in getting the wood of Peach trees the full flavour of the fruit they should be the plants with the hands; little earthings often
to ripen on open walls, it becomes necessary to removed from the trees before they become what give the best results. Now is a capital time to
give them every assistance possible. In such ia termed dead ripe. By following up a regular sow in any outlying frames Lettuce and Cauli-
places the shoots should be kept much thinner system of looking over all the trees every morn- flower to stand the winter under glass. Cauli-
than is requisite in more favourable situations, ing, injury by falling to the ground is avoided, flowers for hand-lights should be encouraged to
so as to allow the sun to get to them; they and by gathering under rather than over-ripe, grow and make stiff plants,
should also be kept closely nailed in, so that an d placing the fruit in shallow baskets well Herbs. —Parsley and such other herbs as are

they may receive the full benefit to be derived padded with paper shavings, Peaches and in daily request throughout the winter should
from the heat of the bricks. Shoots nailed in Nectarines will keep for several days in a cool have immediate attention ; the former, as a rule,
now will mature their buds much better than fruit room, or, that which ia of greater import- winters safely on a dry south border, but a frame
if they are allowed to stand away from the ance to many, they will bear packing and transit placed over it ensures its safety in all weathers,
wail. These remarks do not, of course, apply by railway without showing the marks and Basil, Tarragon, Balm, and Mint are all easily
to the southern counties, where the wood will bruises which mar the beauty and spoil the produced in any warm position in houses or
ripen under almost any conditions ; but in parts delicate flavour of so many fine Peaches. As pits, and if planted in pots or boxes they can
of the kingdom where the Peach can only just SO on as the earliest trees are cleared of the crop be conveniently removed as required from one
finish its wood, inordinary seasons, it sometimes they should be well syringed to clear them of place to another.

happens that the shoots are left detached from red spider, and if pure water is not considered Spinach. —A little more winter Spinach
the wall under the impression that the buds are sufficient, flowers of sulphur, reduced to a paste should now be sown at once on a dry piece of
matured by the extra air they get in such a with soft soap, may be added and applied ground, and will come in for use in the spring,
position. In this respect, however, the influ- with the garden engine. Where trees were This late sowing will not have a disposition to
ence of the heat derived from absolute contact heavily mulched and watered through the hot run so soon to seed as that put in at an earlier
with the face of the wall is much greater. weather, the copious rains we have recently period. It is a good plan to go over the rows,

Orchard houses. —By this time nearly all had will have started another break of and to partly thin them out, leaving the plants
the fruit will have been gathered from the trees laterals. These, together with old wood from so that they will not become drawn ; and to
in this structure, and many of them will have which the fruit has been gathered, must be re- complete the thinning by removing more as they
been turned out of doors to ripen up their wood, moved to let in light and warmth, care being are required for use. Ultimately those that
Where spider has been troublesome this turning observed that an even spread of moderately are left should be about 6 inches asunder. This
out, particularly in warm districts, may be an strong short-jointed shoots is left to furnish the vegetable, like all others, cannot stand a severe
advantage; but in this locality, where we are next year’s crop. In low, damp situations winter when crowded. This method of partial
resting upon marl and surrounded by limestone unfavourable to the ripening of strong wood, thinning admits of a supply both for the pre-
hills, we find a well-ventilated house the best vigorous young trees require biennial lifting sent and future time being supplied from the
place for ripening up the wood of nearly all kinds and replanting until they begin to carry full same ground. Whenever an opportunity is
of stone fruit trees. Now is the time to make crops of fruit. To perform this operation offered by the land being dry, let the entire
an examination of the general stock of Peaches, successfully, all the roots should be carefully surface, where there is room amongst growing
Nectarines, Plums, and early Pears, and to preserved and relaid within a few inches of the crops, be gone over with the hoe, and well
draw out all that require potting, reducing, surface. Strong calcareous loam with a liberal stirred, in order to destroy the weeds. This
or shaking out. In many instances full-sized mixture of old lime, rubble, or burnt earth suits saves much labour by preventing the seeding
trees may be reduced and repotted in the same all kinds of stone fruit trees ; the addition of of such annuals as Groundsel, Chickweed, &c.,
pots, but before they are returned, the latter manure should be confined to the surface as a which will otherwise keep on flowering and
should be well washed and thoroughly dried, mulching, and the work should be completed in maturing seed to the end of the year. It has
otherwise the new compost will cling to the dry weather before the leaves fall. Where also the best possible influence upon the present
sides. Good drainage is indispensable, and a Pears are judiciously selected, and the trees are crops and upon the land, by keeping it more
strong calcareous loam, lime, rubble, or burnt well managed, the Pear crop stands first on the open for the winter ; but in order to effect the
earth and bone dust, will make a sound, rich list of hardy fruits. On warm, dry soils the greatest amount of good, the soil should be
compost, capable of producing excellent fruit- extension of the roots and branches answers quite dry when stirred.

beanng wood. After potting trees that have best, but in cold gardens ample drainage, a Turnips. —These sown about the beginning

been severely reduced, they may be the better generous, mellow compost, and frequent lifting of August are an important crop, as upon them
for a fortnight under glass, where they can be form important items. Pears, like Peaches, principally depends the winter supply ; when
shaded from bright sunshine and syringed occa- almost without exception, are best when sown earlier it is difficult, in many parts of the
sionally, but the inexperienced would be gathered before they arc fit for use, and as many kingdom, to preserve the young plants from the
astonished to find how quickly trees that are of the autumn kinds will now part freely the Turnip beetle. To get a satisfactory return
potted with the leaves upon them form new most forward should be gathered from time to from these late sowings, it is absolutely neces-
roots in the fresh compost. In days gone by it time, and placed on shelves in the fruit room for sary to allow them plenty of room by thinning
was the practice to defer lifting fruit trees succession. Late kinds may hang for a con- sufficiently and in time. At this season they
until every leaf had fallen, but a long experi- siderable time yet, but nothing is gained by make larger tops than earlier, and, unless given
ence of successes and failures has proved that all leaving them on the trees after the leaves have space enough, they .will not make roots of a
this kind of work should be done before the performed their functions, and show signs of useful size. Where the first thinning was in¬
leaves are ripe enough to/atPat the touch 1 and falling. If tomtits attack the fruit, small- sufficient, they skouid at orice be again gone
while the earth contain^ viMtmjt’i Ital j wnl meshed fishing-nets must be suspended from the over and more puiled out; a space of lf> inches
heal wounds and induce tnfc forihatioi£%|f new coping, and, if necessary, secured to boards betweon the plunts every wjay is irt#, tpo much.

326

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[SfcPT. 13, 1884.

INDOOR PLANTS.

BEST TIME TO POT LILIUM AURATUM.

In shifting some bulbs of this Lily that had
flowered in pots, and the stems of which had
just turned brown, I found that many of them

cannot be expected from them. The only insect
pests that trouble either the foliage or buds of
this plant are aphides, which are easily kept
down by fumigation or syringing with Tobacco
water. H*

Agapanthus umbellatus. —This fine old

the best time to repot this Lily is the autumn,
as then the new roots will rim into the fresh
compost, and there will be no occasion to injure
them in potting, as would be the case if that
operation was delayed till later in the season.
We continually hear of great losses in the case
of imported bulbs which flower well the first
season, and in autumn are found on examina¬
tion to be decayed. This loss is, in my opinion,
principally to be attributed to the late season
at which they arrive in this country, as under
ordinary conditions their pots would be full
of roots before imported bulbs are in the
ground, and these latter seldom make the same
amount of roots as early potted ones. Many of
the imported bulbs when examined in autumn
appear to be sound at the first glance, but on
closer inspection the base of the scales is found
to be decayed, and a shake will sometimes
suffice to scatter the bulb into fragments.
Another reason which probably accounts for the
loss of great numbers is that after flowering
they are frequently placed anywhere out of
doors, and, if the weather is hot, become dry ;
then when heavy autumnal rains occur they are
completely saturated and decay commences, or, ]
if it had already begun, it is thus greatly has¬
tened. After several experiments with imported
bulbs of this Lily in pots, I have been most
successful under the following

Mode of treatment : As soon as received,
which will be about the beginning of February,
the bulbs are laid on clean Cocoa-nut refuse
or fine peat in the shelter of a cold frame,
the lights of which are kept on to pre¬
vent their being deluged witn wet at that
time. Plenty of air is, however, given by
tilting the lights at all times, except during
severe frost. They generally arrive in a some¬
what dry and shrivelled condition, but under
this treatment they soon become plump, and the
young roots start from the base of the bulb.
When this takes place they are at once lifted
and potted, returning them afterwards to the
same quarters. Advantage is taken of this lift¬
ing to carefully scrutinise each bulb and re¬
move any decaying matter, an operation which
greatly assists in maintaining the bulbs in a
healthy condition. The soil used consists of
about two-thirds fibrous loam to one of leaf-
mould and a liberal admixture of silver sand.
My experience is that the bulbs do best when
planted rather deep—that is to say, with at
least an inch of soil above their tops. In potting
it is a good practice to surround the bulb with
dry silver sand, which prevents any stagnant
moisture accumulating around it. After potting
they are kept slightly moist with an increased
amount of water as the flower stems develop
themselves, and when flowering is over they are
returned to the frame till their stems commence
to decay, when they are at once repotted. No
hard and fast rule is followed in reference
to this point. Some are very little disturbed,
and that only to ascertain the condition of the
bulb, which can be found out by removing the
upper portion of the soil, thus leaving the
bottom mass of young healthy roots quite in¬
tact. Others, again, whose condition is not so
satisfactory, have the soil shaken away and
another start given them in fresh compost.
They are then just kept moist through the
winter, and continue rooting during all that
time. Of course failures are by no means un¬
known, even under this mode of treatment;
but they have been reduced, and upon the whole
it gives pretty good results. During the summer
these Lilies are kept in a slightly shaded posi¬
tion, as thus managed they retain their foliage
in better condition than when exposed to full
sunshine. A word or two as to
Selecting the bulbs. —Do not aim at get¬
ting particularly large ones ; rather choose those
of a firm, solid texture, even though somewhat
less in size. A flattish bulb rarely does so well
as one with a more ^elevated centre, and in all
respects rounder.( Atitftp si 3 tsm£ the bulbs
must be of good%i«J,\nr iine^pnees of flowers

been flowering most profusely. A well-grown
specimen of it, bearing ten or twelve umbels of
bright blue flowers, is a striking object. It is
easily increased by means of onsets, which, if
potted in rich soil, soon make fine plants. It
has strong, fleshy, fibrous roots, and when these
fill the pots the plants should be shifted into
larger ones. By giving them liberal Bhifts they
soon make fine plants. They will be found to
be suitable for outdoor decoration either plunged
in the ground in their pots, when they can be
shifted at any time without injuring the plants,
or the pots can be Bet in positions in which they
will be most effective whether singly or ingroups.
In winter they merely require protection from
frost.—W. C.

Winter-flowering Violets.— The time
has now arrived for getting these into their
winter quarters. Young plants grown from
runners planted out in April will now be fine
clumps showing bloom. The best position I
have found for them is a Cucumber frame, which
by this time is mostly vacant. For Violets it
should be set in the sunniest position at com¬
mand, and raised well up at the back by means
of temporary brick piers, so that it may catch
every ray of sunlight; for, although it is ad¬
visable to screen Violets from the scorching rays
of a summer’s sun, it is of the highest importance
to utilise every ray in winter, so as to tempt the
blossoms to expand during the dark, short days.
When the frame is fixed in position, fill it three
parts full of dry leaves and stable litter, trodden
nrmly, to give a gentle lasting warmth ; on this
put 6 inches of good soil, then lift the plants
with good balls of earth, and plant them about
1 foot apart, giving a good soaking of water to
settle the soil about their roots. The glass
lights will only be needed to ward off heavy
rains, and should be tilted up at the back, to
allow a free circulation of air night and day,
until danger from sharp frost compels their
being closed and well covered with mats and
dry litter. I find Marie Louise the earliest
flowering sort, and a decided improvement on
the older Neapolitan, having longer flower-stalks
and being of a darker shade of blue, or rather
lavender. Let the blooms be fully expanded
before they are gathered, as it is a great waste
to gather half-expanded flowers, and a dozen
blooms as large as a shilling make a good bunch.
Violets garnished with Violet leaves look better
than in any other way, but the foliage of hardy
single kinds may be utilised for this purpose.

Libonia floribunda.— This is too rarely
found in good condition in small gardens, but it
is so useful as a winter flowerer as to deserve
much cultural care. In the case of young plants
the great point is to propagate early, so that
they may get a long season of growth, and have
time to become thoroughly hardened by the
beginning of winter. Upon this depends their
ability to produce good flowers and to retain
their foliage through the winter months.
Badly-grown plants are sure to cast their leaves,

Planting out Calla sethiopioa in summer
needs only one trial to prove its superiority over
keeping it in pots, for even the smallest single
crowns put out in May or June develop into
fine sturdy plants by September. It is such a
strong-rooting plant that it will succeed in any
fairly good soil, and good plants, even when out
of flower, are ornamental. For general pur¬
poses single crowns are best, but large specimens
for entrance halls or conservatory decoration
are desirable, and few plants last longer in good
condition in unfavourable positions than this
Calla. "

cuttings, which, if struck early in spring, make
good flowering plants by the following winter,
and where anyone has a warm greenhouse or
conservatory at command, and requires flowers
for cutting in winter, I do not know of any
plant that will yield a better return than this.
—J.

Solomon’s Seal forced.— Among the
many good old-fashioned hardy plants, few' are
better than this for forcing ; as, though very
chaste and beautiful outdoors, it is far better
under glass, especially when forced, as then the
delicacy of the green of its foliage is simply
charming. In a cut state I know of nothing to
equal it, as, besides the form and colour of the
leaves, the stems arch over most gracefully, and
are adorned with a profusion of pendent,
silvery-looking, bell-shaped blossoms that
render them quite unique in appearance. To
have good strong plants for potting, fresh plan¬
tations should be made in the spring, which
may easily be done by pulling old roots to
pieces ; they will bear dividing to almost any
extent, for they are full of buds or eyes, and are
sure to break and form young shoots. A good
way of managing them is to dig shallow trenches,
making them just below the surface level, and
enriching the ground by working in manure, as
is done for Celerv ; then the portions of roots of
the Solomon’s Seal should be planted in rows,
and, as they grow, the earth may be drawn to
them, so as to fill up the trench, which is all the
attention they require during the summer, ex¬
cept keeping them free from weeds, and, it may
be, giving a soaking of water or liquid manure
should the weather happen to be unusually dry.
In winter the best plan is to take the whole of
the plants up, as then the strongest roots may
be picked out for potting, and the weaker laid
by for replanting to grow on again. The way
in which I think Solomon’s Seal looks best and
is most useful for small vases or furnishing
stands in windows is in 6-inch or 7-inch pots,
in which the pieces of roots having good crown
buds should be potted. The sized pieces we
use are from 2 inches to 3 inches long, and these
we arrange regularly in the pots, and then we
cover them over with soil, so that when finished
they are about an inch or so deep. The pots
are then set in any cold frame, to be drawn
from as the plants are wanted for use. As
regards the forcing, that is a very simple matter,
as°the plants respond readily to heat, and may
be started almost anywhere—in the Mushroom
house, under stages, or any dark place, as they
do not require light till they get well above
ground. What they do like is a good supply of
water, which should be given tepid, and it is
necessary to gradually harden them, in order to
render the shoots more enduring when out.—

S. D.

Staphylea oolchioa.—I find this member
of the Bladder-nut family to be very useful for
forcing into flower in spring. The common
Bladder-nut (S. pinnata), found wild in some
parts of England, is more attractive in fruit
than in flower, but S. colchica is valued for the
beauty of its pure white blossoms, which are
produced in large clusters. Like Deutzia gracilis,
it is, as a rule, more attractive under glass than
in the open air, as outside the blossoms are
often tinged with green. This Staphylea has
been known for some time, but it is only within
the last few years that it has been used for
forcing; indeed, its employment for that
purpose is still very limited. Cuttings of it do
not root satisfactorily ; therefore a stock of it
must be obtained by means of layers, or in the
case of established plants it is often possible to
detach suckers with a few roots attached
to them, and these soon make good plants.
Very early forcing does not suit it, the beginning
of March being quite soon enough to have it in
perfection.—P.

Chrysanthemums for exhibition.—
Those who are growing specimen plants of
Chrysanthemums will now need to give them
close attention. If they have been carefully
attended to they will have made by this time
strong growth, and have branched out into
leaders and lateral shoots. Some varieties,
especially the Japanese, give a terminal bud,
which will generally expand itself and give an
early bloom, the same plants blooming agaii

. ^ •» 1 I 1 m_...ill k

Sparmannia africana. — This useful
winter-flowering plant has of late years become
very popular ; its flowers, being of a rich satin¬
like appearance, makegood button-holebouquets, - —-r—— --- « y

and in a temperature of from 50 degs. to 55 degn. I from the leader buds. These blooms will K
keep opening in succession for a long time. It 1 mostly too early for exhibition, so tae cultivator
is a plant of easy culture, striking readily from must use ljiis judgment as, to retaining or

Sept. 13, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

82 1

destroying them. In the case of many of the
late blooming varieties, however, these blooms
come later and at exhibition time, whereas the
leader buds will perhaps not open until
December. Grandiflorum, Ethel, and Golden
Dragon are late sorts. This tendency to flower
late, as well as other peculiarities in the Chry¬
santhemum, a knowledge of which can only be
gained in time, gives the experienced grower
so many chances in his favour when growing
for exhibition. Having now reached the time
when the plants may be said to have finished
their growth, the buds must be looked for, and
preparations should be made for feeding the
plants with liquid manure. As soon as the
buds appear and can be conveniently handled
on plants required to produce exhibition flowers,
nip out all the buds except the centre, and this
must be carefully done, for it is a delicate task,
else the centre bud may get damaged or perhaps
broken off entirely ; all buds appearing on the
stems must be taken out, and also all laterals
that are not required for bloom ; this done, the
application of manure water can commence.
There is some difference of opinion as to the
best liquid manure ; some recommend the usual
mixture from the stable, which is uudoubtedly
a good thing in the hands of an experienced
grower, but anyone without the necessary
knowledge or experience will have some
difficulty in arriving at an estimate of the
proper strength required. By applying liquid
manure of too high a strength, buds have be¬
come blind, which is a great disappointment.
Some growers recommend artificial manures,
and of these one of the best is Clay’s Fertiliser.
A little of this should be sprinkled over the
surface once or twice a week, and watered in
when moisture is applied to the plants. One
authority on the culture of the Chrysanthemum
states that all that is required at this stage is
an ammonical stimulant to take immediate
effect on the plant, in order to swell the buds
to the largest possible size, and in no manure
can we get this in such quantity as in sulphate
of ammonia, a small quantity of which only is
needed, commencing at a quarter of an ounce,
and gradually increasing to half an ounce, to a
gallon of water. This is at any rate a clean and
inoffensive process, and it has the merit of
being cheap, as the cost is not more than a half¬
penny to a penny per gallon. It need scarcely
be stated that thorough cleanliness of foliage is
indispensable. Any thrips that may find a
lodgment in the points of the shoots must be at
once dislodged. No quarter must be given to
any injurious insect, nor must the plants be
drawn in any way. They should be encouraged
to grow as hardy and vigorous as possible, and
at this season of the year need plenty of
exposure.—R. D.

Propagating Begonias.— Begonias be¬
longing to the Rex section are propagated in
two ways—one being to take off a leaf, make
several incisions through the principal ribs, and
lay it on a pan of soil or on a bed of Cocoa-nut
refuse, when young plants will be produced
from the cut portions and also from the base of
the leaf; the other way is to cut up the leaf
into wedge-shaped pieces, commencing at the
stalk, and carrying the cut outwards to the
edge ; If done in this way each piece will have
an equal proportion of the more solid part
around the stem. These wedge-shaped pieces
are then dibbled into pots as cuttings, and the
same treatment is accorded them afterwards as
is given to the others ; but, after a careful com¬
parison of the two methods, I am convinced
that the first-named is the best. Success is
more certain, and the number of plants that can
be propagated is greater than by any other way.
—A.

Tender Periwinkles. — Periwinkles, or
Vincas, belonging to this class, are easily grown
in any house devoted to a general collection of
tender exotics. Their blooms in a cut state are
most useful at this season of the year for
decorating vases and other indoor receptacles,
and from plants of a good size flowers can be
cut with a fair amount of stem attached to
them without injuring the plant itself. We
have found these Vincas to keep best through
the winter when not pruned till the time of
starting them into growth comes round. The
removal of the flowers will have given thq-plants
a moderate foreshortening—encJuqh flme

being ; then they should weJned off mtderktely

and rested like Fuchsias. If pruned hard back
in autumn, Vincas are apt to die still farther
back, and that even beyond w r hat one could
wish. All decaying foliage should be removed
before it causes injury to the growths, of which
they are very susceptible if not well looked
after. Prune them when they are to be started
into growth again in spring, and give the plants
a good watering previous to shaking them out
and repotting them in smaller-sized pots. When
active growth commences keep them regularly
pinched as soon as each shoot reaches its second
pair of leaves. Continue doing this till a com¬
pact, bushy head has been obtained. In six
weeks from the last stopping their first blooms
will begin to expand, and by this time
the pots, after the last shift has been given
them, should be getting well filled with
roots. From this time onwards through¬
out the flowering season keep them well
supplied with water, of which they need a good
deal. Occasional doses of diluted liquid manure
will also greatly benefit them and make the
blooms finer than they otherwise would be. We
had once a fine specimen of V. oculata that had
been for a time in a house without fire-heat just
as it was opening its first flowers. Through
fear of damp we kept it too dry at the root, and
that caused the blooms to be small and to drop
prematurely. We therefore at once removed it
into a wanner house, and supplied it very freely
with rvater at the roots. This soon altered the
character of the blooms, which enlarged to the
size of a crown-piece, two or three such blooms
on the point of every shoot producing a striking
effect. When in flower it is necessary to look
the plants over every day, in order to remove
all decayed or faded blooms. If this is not
done, the buds oftentimes get affected before
they open. As to soil, the best suited for Vincas
is a light loam mixed with well-decomposed
leaf-soil; where good leaf-soil cannot be ob¬
tained peat should be substituted, such as that
which one would use for Ferns. In either case
add a good amount of silver sand. At the time
of potting do not press the soil too firmly
around the old ball—no tighter than can be
done by the hands alone—it being necessary that
the roots should take hold of the fresh soil as
rapidly as possible.—J. H.

Christmas Roses in pots. —I am not aware
that these are generally grown in pots in what
may be called specimen form, nor is it a common
thing to see them grown permanently in pots,
at least so far as I am aware ; but I think they
adapt themselves to this mode of culture better
than might be expected. A neighbour of mine
grows them in 14-inch pots in a very successful
manner. When he first began he took up a lot
of large old plants, and packed them closely to¬
gether in the pots. This he did in November,
just as the flower buds were getting above the
soil. The plants were then placed in a cold pit,
where they flowered at Christmas time. They
were allowed to remain in the pit all winter,
and as soon as the weather permitted they were
placed out in the open, where they remained all
summer, getting what water they required.
They were taken under cover again in time to
get the flowers open at Christmas. The number
of flowers which they produced the second vear
was considerably in excess of that of the first.
With regard to getting them in flower the same
treatment is continued annually, but once in
tw r o years, in early spring, they are turned out
of their pots, a good portion of the old soil is
shaken away from the roots, and they are potted
again in fresh material. This is all the atten¬
tion they require ; and I must confess that even
in gardens in which this plant does well I have
not seen results anything approaching the pot
system.—J. C. C.

Marguerites under glass.— Those who
find it difficult to keep the conservatory gay
during October should grow Marguerites.
Cuttings of them may be struck early in spring
and grown along quickly, so that a well-estab¬
lished plant may be ready for its summer
quarters by the beginning of June ; they should
then be planted in a sunny border, allowing
them plenty of room. A sandy loam, well
worked, suits them perfectly. They will do
well in this through the summer, and should be
large bushes, some 3 feet in height, as much in
diameter, and well furnished to the ground by
the beginning of September, when they should
be taken up and prepared for removal indoors.

Choose a dull day for this operation ; be ready
with a barrow load of light loam, in which a
little leaf-soil may be worked, and have some
10-inch pots slightly crocked. The Boil and
pots may, with advantage, be taken to the bed
in which the Marguerites are growing, as much
depends on getting their roots covered as
quickly as possible. Exercise care in taking
them up, and lift them with a large ball, as
superfluous soil can be better removed by the
hand than the spade. In potting leave sufficient
room for a surface mulching later on. After the
potting is done the plants may be placed under
a north wall. They should at once be slightly
staked to prevent breakage, and receive a
thorough soaking of water. They should
be well cared for afterwards in this latter
respect, and an occasional damping with the
syringe will also prove beneficial for a few days
should the weather be hot and dry. In about
ten days they will be ready for the conservatory.
The above details may seem somewhat trivial,
but they should, nevertheless, be strictly
followed, as the object is to prevent the slightest
check, and large bushes covered with bloom can
be safely transferred in this way without a leaf
or a petal being any the worse. It is difficult
to name a class of plants that better repay any
little extra trouble bestowed on them than these,
either as regards helping to make the conserva¬
tory gay or the amount of cut blooms which
they furnish. With respect to surface mulching,
I should recommend it to be adopted in not more
than a week or ten days after the plants are
taken up.—E. B.

VEGETABLES.

Cauliflowers and manure.— Having a
plot of Cauliflowers extra vigorous, the leaves
on many of them being 30 inches long, and of
that deep glaucous green colour that one always
likes to see in every variety of the Cabbage
tribe, a friend remarked, “You have given them
a double dose of manure ; won’t the quality be
unpleasantly affected by it?” By which he
meant that his belief was that the produce
would be rank and taste of the manure. My
reply was that that particular plot would not
be so affected, for the only manure it had last
ear was soot, and since that was applied there
ad been a crop of Peas taken off the same
ground, and the Cauliflowers were planted
without even digging afresh, let alone manuring
the ground. No ; it is not so much the manure,
but depth of culture that has given us such
results, and, what is more, has proved a com¬
plete preventative of olub, not only in regard to
Cauliflowers, but every other description of
Cabbage, so that every year deep digging or
trenching is looked upon as indispensable, Peas,
Beans, Onions, and Potatoes being the crops to
occupy the ground when first trenched ; and as
soon as these are cleared, Cauliflowers, &c., are
planted without any preparation, except weeding
the ground and drawing drills in which to plant.
Depth of soil, yet firmness, the two essentials
most needed for this class of vegetables, are
thus assured. As to manuring, this cannot
well be overdone, and that, too, without risk
of the produce being tainted. I have never
known this to happen in open-air culture,
though I know there are some who think the
contrary. Forced vegetables, such as French
Beans, Carrots, Asparagus, Seakale, and
Rhubarb, are often tainted with the manure,
as might be expected when grown under such
artificial conditions; but even in respect to
these, by judicious management as to airing
and a sparing use of manure water, there need
be little to complain of.—W.

Autumn-sown Cauliflowers. — These
are now in various stages of growth, and until
frost comes they cannot be grown too hardy.
It is a great mistake to begin covering them
up, or shutting them in by any means, until
this is absolutely required ; such treatment not
only makes the plants very tender, but draws
them up until the stems become long and
spindly, and then there is not much chance of
their ever doing well or producing serviceable
heads. Plantain seed beds now should not be
allowed to come too close, and in dibbling them
out they should be put in where frames or lights
can be placed over them by-and-by. Bee’.des
raising early varieties at the present time a
quantity of V«itch’s J^iai|it would be found of

328

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 13, 1884.

the utmost use to follow the others by way of
succession next spring.—M.

Large v. small Onions. —No one can
object to Onions being too large for autumn
use, but the largest are not by any means the
best keepers, and if a supply has to be kept up
until the next crop comes in, too much con¬
fidence must not be placed in large bulbs. I
lind none to keep better or longer than bulbs
which weigh from 3 ounces to 4 ounces each, and
those of James’ Long Keeping (which are about
this weight), sound, and well harvested, might
be kept in good condition for nine months after
being stored.

Earthing up Broccoli, &c.— This we do,
not that we think earthing up does any good,
except as a protection against wind-waving ; in
that respect it is really needful and beneficial,
in so far as it prevents the breaking of roots by
the plants being blown out of the perpendicular.
Dwarf varieties of Cauliflowers, Cabbages, and
Coleworts, if planted in a deep drill, never need
to be earthed except to fill in the drills in which
they were first planted, and before doing this a
sooting, or, if thought desirable, a watering
with manure water should be given ; then the
soil Berves as a mulching, and keeps the plants
moist for a long time. It is necessary to com-

lete all this kind of work, anticipatory of the

igh winds that may shortly be expected.

Vegetable Marrows in light and
heavy material.— It is generally understood
that Vegetable Marrows are gross feeders, and
that they grow best where manure is most
plentiful, but their inclinations in this way are
often overdone. Lately I have seen some plants
growing in nothing but pure manure ; in fact,
they had been put out on the top of a manure
heap, and they had produced a mass of growth
and plenty of flowers, but very few fruits—
doubtless the result of having soft, watery shoots
quite incapable of bearing fruit. The variety
was blamed, but under the conditions just
referred to I could not accept this conclusion,
as some of our plants whioh nave been growing
all summer in a firm bed of loam and sand, with
the addition of a little manure, had produced
fruits almost as thick as they could lie on the
ground. In this instance the wood was short-
jointed, not over-abundant, very hard-looking,
and there was a fruit at every joint. In wet
districts or wet seasons this is certainly the
best way of growing them, and although a large
fruit or two may be had from a manure bed, the
general crop will be deficient.—M.

Butter Beans, or Mont d’Or.— These are,
as a rule, trained to poles or Pea stakes in the
same manner as Scarlet Runners. This spring,
however, I made a good-sized sowing, drawing
the drills 18 inches apart, and planting the
Beans the usual distance apart. When they had
produced their third leaf I pinched the top out
of each plant to induce it to throw side shoots.
The plants were left to grow at will, and have
produced a fine crop of their pale yellow pods
equal to the rows which were staked ; besides,
I was able to grow three rows in place of one
where stakes are used. The ground being
covered with the haulm keeps it cool and moist
during dry weather, which the roots of Beans
delight in. In future I intend to grow the whole
crop of this Bean without stakes. Scarlet
Runners may be grown upon the same principle
where stakes are expensive or difficult to obtain.
—W. C.

Golden Stone Turnip.— I find no sort to
equal this for spring use. It retains its excel¬
lent flavour longer than any other. The roots
are handsome in shape, the flesh solid and crisp,
which enables it to withstand the frost better
than many others. By making a late sowing,
the last week in August or first in September,
small useful roots will be produced. It is con¬
sidered by many to be the best one for growing
the leaves only, which are generally in great
demand during the spring months for cooking,
as the tops have a better flavour when cooked
than the coarser-leaved sorts. By pinching out
the flower-stems as soon as they appear, a con¬
tinuous supply of tops may be had ; besides, the
roots will be kept more solid, and then they can
be used for flavouring until the spring-sown ones
are fit for use.—W. C.

Perpetual Spinach.'*-!] ' not already,done,
the latest sowing of udsffcj sh fife 3 made

without delay. This sowing will come in to
succeed the crop sown in July, and will con¬
tinue in good bearing until the broad-leaved or
spring Spinach comes into use, or may be re¬
tained for use until the perpetual Spinach sown
in April is fit to gather from. By making
three Bowings a year, one in April, one in July,
and another in September, a constant supply of
perpetual Spinach may be had all the year
round, devoting ground according to the de¬
mand. When in full growth it will be bene¬
fited by using liquid manure once or twice a
week.—W.

Earthing’ up Celery. —When the plants
are allowed to grow up to almost their full size
before they are earthed up they are hardier
than plants earthed up from time to time as
growth proceeds; but I have found that late
earthed ones take a long time to blanch, and
when all was done they were not bo crisp and
tender as the others. I saw some very fine un¬
earthed Celery in a garden the other day, and
the gardener told me that less labour was
needed to earth it up all at once, and on this
account the plan may have something to recom¬
mend it.—J. M.

Tomatoes and wasps. —I have more than
once read that if Tomatoes are grown in a green¬
house or vinery wasps will not touch any fruit
growing therein. I have also more than once
shown that the statement is incorrect; I have

5 roved it to be so quite lately. We have some
'omatoes growing and fruiting in one of the
vineries, and wasps attacked the Grapes at such
a rate that we had to put the Grapes in bags to
preserve them from their depredations. Who
will give us a remedy for keeping wasps out of
houses other than covering up the ventilators
with muslin or fine meshed net ?—J. C. C.

Young Cabbage in autumn.— Tender
young Cabbages are much valued in early spring,
and everything is done to get them good then ;
they, however, lose favour in summer, and few
seem to think anything of them in autumn, but
at the present time and onwards for some weeks
they are as sweet, delicate, and good as they
possibly could be early in the year. When the
spring heads are cut over, the stumps are gene¬
rally left to produce side heads, and these are
useful in a rough way, but they do not possess
the tenderness and delicate flavour of those
heading now for the first time. In order to
secure a plantation of these the seed should be
sown in June, and the plants should be put out
in July, when they will produce a valuable crop
at a time when Peas and Kidney Beans are going
out.—M.

Batavian Endive. — There has always
been a good many Endives, but now we have a
multiplication of Batavians. There is the
broad-leaved, the improved broad-leaved, and
the round-leaved, but the old broad-leaved is
as satisfactory as any, and I may observe that
this is the best of all the Endives. It is the
most useful winter salad plant grown, and all
who have a demand for Endives should not
forget to put the Batavian in their seed orders,
ana treat it well when they have got it.—M.

Asparagus tops are now becoming
yellow, and before they are quite dead they
may seem to some rather unsightly, but on no
account should they be cut over until they
have quite dried up. To cut them over in a
half green state would cause them to bleed and
weaken the shoots considerably. Those who
are in the habit of sowing a little Asparagus
seed annually should endeavour to improve
their stock. This cannot be done with any
certainty by buying seed about which one
knows nothing, but if a system was introduced
of gathering the berries from the very finest
growths in our gardens and raising the plants
therefrom, an improvement would soon in many
instances take place. The berries should not
be gathered until quite red and ripe, and they
must be kept in a dry place ana divested of
their seeds any time during the winter.

Autumn Giant Cauliflower and Self-
protecting Broccoli.— Had Messrs. Veitch
never sent out anything from their nurseries
but these, their name would always have been
remembered with gratitude by gardeners. Of
all vegetables in this way, there is nothing to
equal the Autumn Giant for present use, and
the Self-protecting Broccoli further on. In

autumn nothing else but this Cauliflower is cared
for, and the solid pure white heads which it
invariably produces gives the utmost satisfaction.
Some years we have had patches of it not quite
true, but this season it is magnificent, and let
us hope it may continue true, as any deterioration
would be a loss to us.—M.

Cucumber growing. — Some of your
correspondents, I notice, seem unable to grow
Cucumbers. They say the fruit turns yellow
and drops off, or the plant withers and dies
away. Although but a novice in the matter, I
have been very successful in Cucumber growing,
my plan being simply to keep the vine very
short of leaf and cut it back frequently ; to raise
the light at the top of the frame an inch or two
for air on warm still days only, and water well
every evening with hot water. By these means
I have obtained this year, in a cold frame, off a
single vine, over thirty full-sized Cucumbers,
with promise of a number more. My frame lies
east and west in an exposed corner of the garden.
My plant is of the Telegraph variety. —
Amateur.

Giant Zlttau Onion.— This is one of the finest
Onions that has ever been cultivated. It is handsome in
shape, clear yellow, and if sown In March and properly
treated many of the bulbs will weigh upwards of one

Kund by the end of September. Hitherto the seed has
en rather expensive, but when cheaper it will doubtless
be generally grown as a main crop variety.

Preserving Scarlet Runners.— Procure a large
e&rtbenware vessel, put a layer of salt at the bottom, cut
your Scarlet Runners as for table, and put a layer of them
on the salt, and so on, alternately, until the vessel is tilled ;
top up with a thick layer of salt. Steep in water before
use. —W. H. J.

11911.— Preserving Beans.— Gather the Beans when
young, pack them in a wide-mouthed jar or jug, and put
alternate layers of salt and Beans till the jug is full. As
the salt melts, keep putting in more, so os to have the
Beans always covered. When required for use, steep in
fresh water for a night.—M. C.

HOUSE & WINDOW GARDENING.

Veronica Traversi. — For gardens of
limited extent, or as a pot plant for windows,
balconies, and similar places, there are few
more useful subjects than this pretty New
Zealand Speedwell. It is about the hardiest of
the many shrubby Veronicas now in our gardens,
and though liable to be injured by severe frosts
it [quickly recovers. This Veronica forms a
small much-branched shrub of regular outline,
with dark green Box-like foliage arranged in a
decussate manner thickly on the branches. It
bears, in this respect, a considerable resemblance
to Euonymus microphyllus, and is the hardier
of the two. Its flowers are seldom produced on
small plants, as in its earlier stages it does not
bloom so freely as some of the hybrid kinds,
but as a bush in the open ground it is sometimes
in summer thickly studded with spikes of pale
lilac-coloured flowers, which are very attractive.
Two great recommendations possessed by this
Veronica are, firstly, the readiness with which
it may be struck from cuttings, and, secondly,
the short time required to form effective little
plants. The principal point to be observed in
striking it is to keep the cuttings close and
shaded, when necessary, till rooted, otherwise,
if once allowed to flag, the result will some¬
times be unsatisfactory. As soon as they com¬
mence to grow after being potted off, if the
tops are just pinched out, the young plants
wul send out several shoots and acquire a oushy
habit without further attention in this respect.
—H.

Well-grown Blackberries.—I send you
two branches of the common Blackberry grown
by Mr. Holding, of Tonbridge, which I think
you will say are very fine. They are trained
on poles, and wires strained between to form a
trellis about 8 feet high, and the quantity
of fruit such as I have forwarded to you is
marvellous. He has already gathered several
gallons of fine fruit. His plants were selected
From those growing in the hedges, and planted
in his garden, and they are far superior to any
of the American varieties, which are growing
by the side of them. They threw up shoots
last year which grew over 20 feet, and this year
they are likely to grow 30 feet or more.—
W. Graves. [Uncommonly fine fruits, and
extremely plentiful on each branch. The fruits
are jel; blade wher. fuJlyripe, aiid ac large as
small walnutv—Ep.]

1JKBA NA- C HA M PA IGN

Sept. 13, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

329

TREES AND SHRUBS.

MESPILUS GRANDIFLORA.

There is no lack of trees capable of lighting up
a garden in spring with their beautiful blossoms,
but there are comparatively few that carry their
flowering season into summer. Among these few
one of the finest, and, moreover, one of the least
common, is the subject represented by the
annexed illustration, which is, probably, as well
known by the name of M. Smithi as that of M.
grandifiora. It is a medium-sized tree, growing
about 20 feet high in this country, and forming
a smoothly rounded, wide-spreading head.
About the end of May and the first weeks of
June, it is covered with a profusion of large,

The native country of this Medlar was long a
matter of doubt, but Boissier, in the “ Flora
Orientalis," states that its native habitat is the
Western Caucasus, at high elevations. W. G.

The Tree Ivy. —It is curious to note how
few use this fine shrub effectively. I saw one
by a roadside away from all gardens a few days
ago, many feet through the head, and forming
one of the handsomest evergeeenB that could be
desired. It was a plant of the common Ivy,
which had grown up an old stone and mortar
pillar, that once probably formed the gate post
of the small farm-house. Above this (i fqet of
pillar, finding nothing to climb on, the plant
assumed the tree habit, and spread forth with a
roundish-flat head into a beautiful object.—V.

not too hot and dry, this broad-leaved Spindle
Tree forms an upright shrub of regular outline,
varying from 12 feet to 15 feet in height. In
this Btate its beauty can be readily appreciated,
especially if it happens to be not far removed
from a deep green background of foliage, which
seems to set off the brilliantly coloured fruits to
advantage. These capsules are bright red, and
when open the orange coloured seed hang sus¬
pended therefrom by slender filaments. This
is one of the many trees and shrubs which
might be often employed in a cut state, as
branches of it are very effective for decorative
purposes at a time when there are but few
flowers to be had.—H. P.

Buddlea globosa. —This bears pruning
with impunity, and if cut back early in spring

FLOWERING SPRAY OF MESPILUS GRANDULORA. FLOWERS WHITE (NATURAL SIZE).

snow-white blossoms, which, contrasted with
the large, deep green foliage, are highly orna¬
mental. The general aspect and habit of the
tree admirably fit it for planting singly on
lawns, on which it never looks untidy. It is
quite as hardy as the only other species which
we have in cultivation, viz., M. germanica, the
common Medlar. It is generally propagated by
grafting it on some of the commoner kinds of
CraUegus, a genus to which it is closely related
—so cloaely, in fact, that some have actually
classed it with the Thorns. There are some
fine specimens of this tree in several parts of
the country which must have been planted many
years ago, when the love of tree planting was
more general than it is at present. There are
some fine examples of it at Kew, Syon House,
and Fulham Palace—i ‘
remarkable for the gi
the treeis and shrubs wl

Euonymus latifolius. — Among decidu¬
ous kinds of Euonymus the palm must un¬
doubtedly be awarded to this, which at present
is in full beauty. The leaves are much larger
and the whole plant more vigorous than the
common Spindle Tree (Euonymus europa^us);
but the principal superiority of this broad-
leaved kind lies in its large showy fruits. It is
a native of Southern Europe, and, according to
Loudon, was introduced in 1730 ; but it is only
within the last few years that special attention
has been directed towards it — caused by the
beauty of its fruits in autumn. When planted
thickly with other shrubs, as is often done, this
Euonymus will run up weak and straggling,
and except in the case of a few strong shoots
that overtop their associates, and are thus well
supplied with light and air, but few capsules
will be produced, and its beauty is lost. If
treated as an isolated specimen in a situation

will throw up strong flowering shoots the same
season. In the case of a wall plant this treat¬
ment is not necessary, although topping or
cutting back strong branches might be pursued
with safety and wdth the best results. A plot
of standard Buddleas in our home nursery here
W'as cut back, owing to overgrowth, and I was
auite surprised at the auantity of flowers pro¬
duced by the young wood during the following
season.—A. D. W.

A simple and effective foliage ar¬
rangement. —Seedlings of Acacia lophantha,
alternated with the silvery Solanummarginatum,
with here and there a plant of Ricinus Gibsoni,
and throughout the whole an undergrowth of
Perilla laciniata. A deep rich soil, a sheltered
position, and, a large mass of such plants in
combination produce a truly sub*tropical aflect,
without the real fjib-tropical plants.

330

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 13, 1884.

BOSES.

Rose Cuttings. —Tea Roses may be rooted
all the year round ; but there are three seasons,
or rather conditions, of the plant in which
Hybrid Perpetuals may be rooted with most
certainty. These are the end of June, the end
of September, and from the middle of October
to the middle of November, inclusive. The
first and the last batch of cuttings to be rooted
in the open air, and the middle lot in bottom
heat; place the first lot in sandy soil on a north
or east border, and the last on a south or west
border. These are to be inserted with a heel,
and cannot be rammed in too firmly. September
cuttings succeed best placed on a gentle hotbed,
which can be covered with glass and frost
excluded with mats in the winter. About a
month after insertion these cutttngs will be
found callused, and from that period they may
be gently urged to become plants by being
sheltered from all extremes of temperature
approaching to frost.—D.

Baroness Rothschild and Mabel
Morrison Roses. — We always cut in
autumn fine flowers from these two Roses,
especially from plants of the first named on
their own roots. The individual flowers are
large and delicately shaded with such a soft
pink as only the subdued light of autumn can
bestow on them. Mabel Morrison is very
beautiful, but not so well able to stand against
the winds and rains which generally occur late
in September. Nevertheless its flowers are
most acceptable.—J. C. C.

Tea Rose Adam. —This is one of the
most useful Roses in cultivation, and I ven¬
ture to say that some of these days it will
stand in the front rank of Roses grown more
for the continuous supply of buds and flowers
which they yield than for the decorative effect
which they are capable of affording. My first
acquaintance with this Rose was made on the
Continent some years ago, where, in a large
establishment, the back wall of a Camellia house
was devoted to Tea Roses, amongst which were
some plants of Adam. All the kinds planted
there did well, and gave a large amount of
bloom, but there were periods when they
were out of bloom with the exception of
Adam, which always furnished a bud or two
in times of need, and often caused the remark
to be made that it -was worth all the other
varieties put together. It is, however, only
fair to say that that favourite of the market
growers, Niphetos, did not have a place there ;but
although Adam scarcely ranks so high as that
popular kind, it comes next to it, and the two
should always be found in company, forming,
as they do, a good contrast as regards colour.

I cannot think of two better kinds for a small
greenhouse than these two Teas, and I am sure
amateurs would find them more satisfactory
than Marshal Niel, which, glorious Rose
though it is, is not so well fitted for small
houses, and its flowering season is far too short
for those who like to cut a Rose every few days
through the spring, summer, and autumn
months. Speaking of Tea Roses the other day
to a friend, a large grower of them, he confirmed
my good opinion of Adam, but considers it to
be quite distinct from President. This is a
matter of some importance, and a point which
should be cleared up, as if there are two dis¬
tinct Roses under the same name, it may be
that the true Adam is often not obtainable, and
that some disappointment may be the result,
that is supposing the two kinds not to be equal
in general good properties. What is the opinion
of Rose growers in reference to this matter?
—J.

Whit© Rose Baronne d© Maynard.—
In this Rose we have what everybody amongst
rosarians wants and seldom obtain, viz., a per¬
petual bloomer, the flowers of which are pure
white. Until recently Mabel Morrison was the
only white in the Hybrid Perpetual class, but
it was so very thin and sparing in its petals,
that when the sport from the Baroness de
Rothschild gave us the White Baroness we hailed
it with delight, for who can know such a parent
and not be charmed with the offspring? Yet
this new Rose, delightful as it is, and hard to
please as we are, surely leaves something yet to
be desired before the" gap i n Hybrid sPernetuals
is effectually filled wjbj (oj u lfcmMaftely, it
lacks perfume, the smT^ qua nqppf a perfect

Rose. Moreover, is there that whiteness
in the out-of-door examples of the bloom
which we require ? I may have been unfor¬
tunate as regards the times in which I have
seen the White Baroness in bloom, for in
nearly each case I observed a pinkiness in the
flowers, delightful certainly, but what^ we
want is a white Rose faultlessly pure. Now,
in the Bourlxm Perpetual Baronne de
Maynard we find a type giving a constant
succession of flowers from mid-June till
frost set in, fully four months, and these are
of the purest white throughout; indeed, this
variety is so floriferous that it is necessary to
disbud in a rather wholesale manner if wo wish
for even fair-sized flowers. The plants seem as
if they would soon bloom themselves to death if
allowed to do so, but new wrood in plenty is
produced at the same time. The foliage, too, is
of such a rich glossy green, that it may be used
with advantage in bouquets and button-holes,
not only with its own blooms, but with those
of others. Exception may be taken to Baronne
de Maynard by rosarians, inasmuch as in form
it is neither one thing nor another, that is, it is
neither reflexed, globular, nor tazza-shaped, but
a combination of all of these forms ; three or
four rows of the outer petals are sharply reflexed
like those of the Camellia, whilst the inner ones
are upright and cupped so as to quite hide the
eye in all but the two fully expanded blooms.
For all round excellence, truth as regards colour,
symmetry, fragrance, vigour, quantity, and
constancy of bloom, I know no Rose of any
colour or class equal to it for amateurs. It
should have been named Fidelity to effectually
summarise its good qualities.—R. A. H. G.

Large v. small pots for Roses —It may
be set down as a general rule that plants grown
in pots are more frequently over than under¬
potted, and for what may be termed decorative
plants, the smaller the pot that a good large
plant can be grown in the better. In the case
of Roses, the size of the pot is not so objection¬
able, and I feel sure that the Rose that pro¬
duces the finest blooms or buds and the greatest
number of them will be one for which a good-
sized pot has been provided. Last winter I
potted a good many Roses of various kinds, and
amongst them some, although small plants,
were put into very large pots for growing on the
stages of a now conservatory where there was
no convenience for planting them out. Although
those in large pots and those in small ones were
both treated alike in every respect, those in
larger pots made not only the finest shoots and
produced by far thp finest blooms, but they
appeared to enjoy a far greater immunity from
insect pests than those in even moderate sized
pots. At the end of the first season’s growth
they are more like young trees than ordinary
pot ltos&j; therefore, in the case of anyone
desiring a good supply of Roses from plants in
pots I would decidedly recommend liberal pot
room and good rich soil, for no B-ose can be a
perpetual bloomer if starved at the root. Many,
however, that have no pretension to being per¬
petual flowerers will continue to produce fresh
rowths and fresh blooms as long as they can
nd fresh food for their roots, and without this,
no matter how carefully selected the plants may
be, their blossoming season will be brief.—
J. G. H.

The Cabbage Rose. —Nowhere else have
I seen this once favourite Rose so admirably
cultivated as it was at the late Captain Paget’s,
West Hays. That is now some years since, but
I have never forgotten the magnificent display
that it made every year in his garden. To go
once a year and admire its blooms was a treat
to which I always looked forward with pleasure.
Captain Paget was an admirable cultivator of
Roses in any form, and of this one in particular,
and yet a few words only are necessary to
explain the treatment which it received. It was
simply this:—Plant in good soil, give the roots
an annual dressing of animal manure every
winter, and, as regards the branches, leave them
alone—at least to a great extent. Briefly stated
that was his system of management, but it
would be somewhat misleading if I did not Btate
that the staple soil of his garden was in all
respects suitable to the growth of Roses. His
Cabbage Roses occupied the back of a border
that divided the pleasure grounds from the
kitchen garden, a row of Evergreens forming the
division. The Roses were therefore somewhat

shaded, but not seriously so; what effect the
shade and shelter may have had on them I do
not know, further than that his management
was a success. To say that he did not prune
them at all would be wrong, but when he did
so it w r as only once a year—early in February.
He went over them then and cut off 3 inches
or 4 inches from the tops of the strongest
branches. All the lower shoots and weak
growths "were left untouched. Though the
plants had stood for several years in the same
border, they made vigorous growth every year,
and this necessitated an old stem or two being
cut away to prevent them from getting crowded.

—J. C. C.

Pot Roses. —Just a word to say that these
are not infrequently injured from two causes at
this season of the year, viz., mildew, and too
much water at the roots. The first must be
destroyed by flowers of sulphur; and in order
to prevent injury from heavy rains, the plants
should be sheltered in a greenhouse, or by some
glass light put over them. Tea Roses ought
not to be placed out of doors at all, as they
flower so freely and so continuously under glass,
but they must be quite close to the glass roof at
this season.—J.

Williams’ double yellow Rose.— I have
sometimes seen this named Persian Yellow, but
both in flower and habit of growth it greatly
differs from that variety. The yellow Rose to
which I refer was raised by Mr. Williams, of
Pitmaston, about 1826, and was said to have
been raised from the single Austrian Brier.
This Rose is rarely to be found in Rose lists,
and there must surely be some reason for the
omission, as the tree is very distinct from the
Persian or Harrison’s Yellow; the flowers are
larger and it continues longer in flower. I would
be glad to know the cause of this old-fashioned
Rose falling out of the lists of Roses worth
growing.—C.

Gloir© d© Dijon Rose. -This good old
variety is evidently extremely popular in Kent.

I recently saw in the Cranbrook district the
fronts of several dwelling-houses entirely
covered with it, and in one instance I counted
three hundred fully expanded blooms, besides
innumerable buds in various stages of growth,
on one plant. From what I could see, nearly
all are on Brier stocks about 3 feet high, but all
are not equally well treated. In some instances
plants at least fifteen years old still retain
plenty of vigour, but this is principally owing
to the roots not being neglected—that is to say,
not supposed to find food where and how they
can. No Rose, nor any other climber, will long
thrive satisfactorily unless frequently top-
dressed with good manure, and occasionally
given a good soaking with liquid manure, the
latter being applied at whatever season of the
year it can be had or can be best spared. A few
annuals, and such plants as Verbenas, Pelar¬
goniums, and Pansies, will not greatly injure
the Rose border; but herbaceous Phloxes,
Pyrethrums, Pentstemons, Japanese Anemones,
and similar plants, •which are frequently to be
seen well established over the Rose roots, are
certain to impoverish the border. Given
liberal treatment, the Gloire de Dijon Rose will
not only flower abundantly on any aspect, north
perhaps excepted, early in the season, but will
also push out a number of strong growths,
which in the autumn seldom fail to produce
fine blooms at nearly every joint. It is thus
evident that this Rose is at its best just at a
time when Roses generally are scarce. The
best coloured companion for it with which I am
acquainted is Cheshunt Hybrid. It blooms
with me quite as early in the season, and,
besides occasional blooms during the summer,
we invariably cut a quantity of fine blooms late
in the season. It does well in common with
the Old Glory as a standard on the Brier, and I
annually bud a quantity and advise others to do
the same.— J. M. _

Memoranda for next year. —The most
satisfyfng bit of colouring in the bedding-out
way that we have this season is a mixture of
single Dahlias, various colours; the yellow
Marguerite, Chrysanthemum, Etoile d’Or, the
blue Marguerite, Agathsea ccelestis, and the
hardy Sedum spectabile. A large bed or long
border planted with auch mixture would be so
quiet, yet bright, that it might be viewed daily
and hourly w ithout the least dtinger of the sight
becoming tiring or monotonous.

I

j

Sept. 13, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

331

FRUIT,

NOTES ON GOOSEBERRIES.

It will probably surprise many to learn that
there are nearly, if not quite, 250 varieties of
Gooseberries cultivated in this country. A
large number of these are what is termed Lan¬
cashire show Gooseberries, varieties bearing
berries of great size, that during the summer
are exhibited for prizes, and judged by their
weight and refined appearance. But few of
these large-berried sorts are grown in the south
of England ; in the midland and north-midland
districts they are largely cultivated, but espe¬
cially in Lancashire, Yorkshire, and Cheshire.
Perhaps of all fruits the Gooseberry is that
most cultivated in this country, and seedlings
are being raised annually, though new addi¬
tions are made but slowly, seeing what a large
number of fine varieties there are in cultivation;
but it is a fact that both in regard to size and
prolificacy in bearing great improvements have
been effected during the past thirty or forty
years. In the year 1630 it appears, on the
authority of Gerard, that there were then only
the following varieties in cultivation: Long
Green, Great Yellowish, the Blue, the Great
Round Red, and the Prickly. It may prove of
interest to set forth the mode in which these
prize Gooseberries are cultivated for exhibition
purposes, and the first important matter is the

Formation of the trees. —These are raised
from cuttings, and in doing this it is customary
to cut them off close to the branch, and then to
shorten them to about one half their length.
In inserting the cutting into the ground the
grower is careful not to put the bottom more
than 2 inches deep, and the soil is pressed as
firmly round it as possible. If these two points
be well attended to it is found that not more than
one cutting in fifty will fail. It is a mistake to
insert them too deeply and in loose soil. When
the cuttings push into growth in the spring, all
the shoots are rubbed off but the uppermost,
and this is encouraged to grow upright during
the season. At the autumn pruning the top is
cut off, leaving the young erect plant about
15 inches or 18 inches high. At the spring push¬
ing of the shoots, the three uppermost are kept
if well placed, and all others are rubbed off.
As the snoots push forth they are trained hori¬
zontally to sticks placed so that they form a
triangle. If in growing a branch should be
inclined to rise upwards, a hooked peg is em¬
ployed to keep it in its proper place. If, on
the contrary, a branch should be inclined to
grow too depressed, a forked stick is placed to
support it in its proper position. By the end of
the season these branches will have produced
a number of side shoots. At the time of the

Autumn pruning a certain proportion of the
best placed side shoots are left, cutting them
back to about one half their length. The
side shoots thus left are about 6 inches apart.
Those shoots not wanted to form the tree
are shortened down to one bud. The ends
of the three branches are cut back a few
inches. It often happens that a number of
shoots push in the centre of the bush. All
such are rubbed or cut away during summer,
for if allowed to remain they weaken and choke
the necessary shoots. This attention being paid
the buds for bearing get strong and plump, and
thus no autumn pruning is required. The fol¬
lowing summer the tree will be productive of
fruit. A severe thinning of this fruit is usual
with growers of Gooseberries for exhibition ; in
Borne cases (according to the soit) they do not
allow more than two or three of the fruit t>o
remain. Where a crop of fruit is required this
severe thinning is not practised. At the next
autumn all the new shoots produced upon the
lateral ones of the last year are cut clean out,
with the exception of two, leaving those best
placed, so as to keep the tree in a regular and
handsome shape ; these are cut to about half
their length. Some adopt an autumn pruning
of the trees, because they find that the buds for
bearing next year are rendered more fertile ; also
when pruning is deferred till the spring of the
year the buds are brittle and very easily rubbed
off in the operation.

The above system of pruning and regulation
of the trees is the usual method practised in
every succeeding season. It is customary with
the growers of priGooseberries-^tl) raise new
plants every year, Aid ji o\ eSft<! 4lder ones

when the fruit does not attain the desirable
size; this is usually the fourth or fifth season
from propagation. This particular, as in the
case already mentioned, will not be required by
any other growers, as a tree will continue to
bear fine fruit and abundantly for ten or twelve
years at least if proper care be taken in pruning,
&c. But it may be stated that in the case of
all cultivators of Gooseberries such a system of
pruning as that recommended above will be
found highly advantageous, the object being,
in every Btage of the tree, to retain a regular
and constant supply of young vigorous
shoots. It is from such only that superior
fruit can be produced and a necessary
crop be realised. To shorten the young
shoots about the middle of August is beneficial
both to the fruit and wood for bearing next
year. Upon the old wood small fruit-bearing
spurs will be produced ; when such are allowed
to remain for the production of fruit, injury is
thereby done to the fruit upon the young wood
by causing it to be small, and the fruit upon
the spurs upon the old wood is always of an
inferior size. Such spurs should be cut clean
off, keeping in view that fine fruit and an
abundant crop can alone be produced from
young wood ; and in retaining even this it
should be left thinly, so as never to have the
tree crowded. When a tree has extexded so
far that it is necessary to curtail it, it may be
cut in very successfully to benefit that part left,
taking care to cut up close to a shoot. There
are a few kinds of Gooseberries the trees of
which have an erect habit of growth ; these, of
course, must be encouraged to grow in that
manner, but be kept very thin of wood. Such
are generally some of the old small sorts which
are grown for market and ordinary garden
purposes.

Root pruning. —It is the practice with some
Gooseberry growers to lay bare the roots of the
trees, and cut them back considerably, doing
this once in three or four years ; this is done
with a view of causing the development of addi¬
tional fibrous roots, and thus giving additional
vigour to the tree. A portion only of the roots
is treated in this way at one time, and after the
soil is removed the roots are carefully lifted,
the long ones cut back, and what are left relaid
in some very rich soil. Those who grow fine
Gooseberries generally manure annually at each
autumn pruning of the trees. The usual method
is to remove the surface soil from off the roots
as far as they extend themselves, but not to
disturb them, doing this to the depth of 2 inches
or 3 inches, filling the space with well-rotted
cow manure. After laying the manure, the soil
is Bpread over it again. During the rains of
autumn and winter some of the Denefits of the
manure are filtered down amongst the roots, and
the enriching of the soil will exhibit its benefits
during the summer.

Enriching the soil. —It is a practice with
the growers of prize Gooseberries to enrich the
soil during summer by watering frequently with
a prepared liquid manure. This contributes
much to increase the size of the fruit and the
vigour of the trees. The Gooseberry will
flourish in almost any fresh soil, provided atten¬
tion be paid to the treatment of the plants as
above set forth. But the trees do best in a
moderately strong fresh loam upon a gravelly
sub-soil. The loam should be at least a foot
deep.

Gardening on trellises.— The practice of
training Gooseberry trees against an upright
trellis is one often adopted with great success,
and we have seen very heavy crops of fruit
hanging on these. They are trained over arched
trellises with equal success. The advantages
derived are a regular supply of fruit-bearing
wood ; the fruit is fine, and being high from the
ground, is kept free from being splashed with
dirt from heavy rains. The appearance of the
trees, too, is decidedly ornamental. Trellises
are rather expensive, but when made of
galvanised iron they are very durable.

Varieties.— The following are a few ef the
best varieties of Lancashire prize Goose¬
berries:— Red — Clayton, Conquering Hero,
Dan’s Mistake, Duke of Sutherland, London,
and Wonderful. Yellow —Catherina, Criterion,
Drill, Leveller, Mount Pleasant, and Peru.
Green —General, Green, London, Shiner, Stock-
well, Telegraph, and Thumper. White —
Antagonist, Careless, Freedom, Hero of the
Nile, King of Trumps, and Snowdrift. The

following are very useful garden sorts :— Red —
Ironmonger, Red Champagne, Red Warrington,
Rough Red, Turkey Red, and Wilmot’s Early
Red. Yellow —Early Sulphur, Moreton Hero,
Perfection, Rock wood, Yellow Ball, and Yellow
Champagne. Green —Green Gascoigne, Green
Overall, Green Walnut, Heart of Oak, Model,
and Pitmaston Green Gage. White — Bright
Venus, Crystal, Early White, Mayor of Old¬
ham, Snowdrop, and Whitesmith.—R. D.

GATHERING AND STORING APPLES.

The simple operation of gathering Apples ap¬
pears at first sight to be a subject about which
no great amount of judgment is required, or
upon which any detailed instruction is neces¬
sary ; neither would there be if the fruit is for
immediate use ; but if required to keep any
length of time there are few operations in fruit
gardening requiring more care, as it is useless
to expect bruised Apples to keep any length of
time. The bruises of windfalls in Grass orchards
are trifling compared with those which a care¬
less gatherer will cause on the fruits by roughly
dropping them into the gathering basket, and
from this into sieves or hampers, until when
they finally reach the fruit room shelves they
are nearly all more or less bruised, and in such
a state their value is more than half destroyed,
for no sooner are they stored away than it is
necessary to begin picking out the decaying
fruits, and unless the consumption is rapid it is
probable that more fruit will decay than will be
used. Although the crop of Apples is excep¬
tionally good this season, it is necessary that
owners of gardens and orchards should pay par¬
ticular attention to the gathering ana storing

of their crop. Early kinds can be gathered as
required, and therefore not needing to be kept
long, the risk of injury by bruising is not nearly
so great as in the case of those that are required
for use through the winter and spring.

In the majority of cases late-keeping Apples
are fit for gathering during October, but many
of the early kinds will keep sound a considerable
time if carefully gathered and stored in a cool
place. The proper time for gathering Apples is
important. It is generally considered that when
the Apples begin to drop from the tree they are
fit for storing, yet this will in many cases lead
to premature gathering, as worm or maggot-
eaten Apples drop from the trees long before
the sound fruits are fit for gathering. It is safer
to try some of the soundest looking Apples, and
if they part readily from the tree when gently
turned on one side they may safely be gathered.

Storing places. —The most suitable are such
as dry cellars or buildings that are not liable to
sudden fluctuations of heat and cold. See that
they are thoroughly cleansed and well venti¬
lated before fruit is put in them, and some clean
Oat straw spread thinly on the shelves ; then
take a stout gathering bag and proceed to take
the fruit singly in the hand, if large, and give a
sharp turn so that the stalk parts from the tree,
but on no account pull it out of the fruit, as this
leads to decay very rapidly. In dropping the
fruit into the bag be careful not to drop one on the
other, but place them as carefully in the bag as
if they were eggs. If baskets are used they
should be padded or lined with some soft
material. Apples vary considerably in their
power of resisting the effects of rough handling.
As a rule the best and most juicy Apples bruise
far more readily than such as are of a dry and
tough nature. The very latest keeping Apples
we have will dry up like a sponge rather than
decay, owing to paucity of juice. My own ex¬
perience leads me to the conclusion that

Apple rooms are, as a rule, too dry, and the
juice of the fruits is, as it were, dried out of
them far too rapidly ; it is not necessary to
ensure good keeping that the atmosphere
should be dried by any artifical means. The
ground floor of a building is always far pre¬
ferable to an elevated structure, owing to the
moisture that is continually rising from the
soil, and in severe weather the ground floor or
even below the ground line is a far Bafer place
to ensure an equable temperature than an
elevated room. If it were possible to keep
Apple rooms below 40 degs., or only just above
freezing, there would be little loss by shrivel¬
ling, and the kind of structure that will keep
ice from being acted on by the outer air will
also keep Apples for the longest possible time.

Single layers op Apples I do not think

TJHBaNA-CHAMPA IGl\l

332

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 13, 1884.

necessary or desirable except in cases of Vefy
fine specimens of special kinds, for I find that
if Apples are sound and put together dry they
keep quite as well several layers thick and
with less loss by shrivelling. The room must
be kept well ventilated for some time after the
Apples are gathered, as they undergo a kind
of sweating, and should not be covered over
until this is over, but after this the closer the
structure is kept the better. And I find that the
less Apples are moved the better, for the sweat¬
ing process provides a kind of covering for the
skin of the Apple that excludes the air better
than anything artificial. On no account should
Apples intended to keep long be wiped, as the
varnished substance would be rubbed off. It is
not necessary to turn Apples over like Potatoes,
for no disease affects the sound fruit, and, as a
rule, if not prematurely gathered all the fruit
will be quite sound, as the worm-eaten ones
will be blown off before gathering time comes
round.

Protection from frost. — During severe
frost the Apple store should be kept as closely
shut as possible, for if properly constructed with
a thatched or double roof, with good space for
air to circulate between, it is very rare that we
get frost severe enough to penetrate sufficient
to do any injury; but if it does, a covering of
straw is the best antidote ; in fact, on the floor
of Hop kilns in Kent Apples are kept quite
buried up in straw with far less loss than in
some of the most costly fitted up fruit stores,
the reason being that they are ventilated at the
highest point, and the interior is dark and still,
and only such sorts are stored for keeping as
are proved to be the best for that purpose.
French Crabs, Northern Greenings, Norfolk
Beefing, and Graham’s Russet, carefully
gathered and stored, are always worth any
amount of attention bestowed on them, even
when soft early kinds are a drug in the market,
for as regards quality they defy foreign com¬
petition. J. G.

GATHERING AND PRESERVING
WALNUTS.

Local conditions may in some cases affect the
maturation of Walnuts, but, taking the several
varieties together, they may generally be said to
be fit for storing in the first week in October.
This is the time at which we get in our stock
when we have any, which is not always the case.
I find that Walnut crops are not so regular
in the west of England as in the eastern por¬
tion of it, but for what reason I cannot explain ;
one thing is, however, pretty certain, and that
is that old trees invariably bear more regularly
than young ones, and better crops in proportion
to the space which they occupy. The best way
to get the nuts from the tree is to send a couple
of men up among the branches, where, by means
of a long Ash pole, all parts of the tree may be
reached without much difficulty. It used to be
said that the more thrashing Walnut trees get
the better they bear, which means that the men
who beat down the nuts should also do the
pruning. This I never could see did any good,
for I have noticed that the crop depends
entirely upon the weather. If that is favour¬
able when the young fruit is just forming, we
get a full crop; if not, we get none or a pro¬
portionally small one. Having secured the
nuts, they should be laid out on the floor of a
dry shed, or placed in baskets on the floor of a
vinery or Peach house. It is not necessary
that they should be in single layers, but if laid
five or six deep they will dry sooner than if
laid in large heaps.

I have tried a variety of plans by which to
preserve them, including that often recom¬
mended, of keeping them in their green shells.
This plan answers well for two or three weeks,
but at the end of that time the green shells get
into a black mass, which disfigures the nuts so
much that they do not look well when sent to
table. I have also tried them in tin canisters,
filling the canisters with nuts separated from
their green shells, and keeping them in a cool,
dry place ; but, notwithstanding that the lids of
the canisters were tried both open and closed,
the nuts kept so constantly damp that in a
short time they were unfit for use. I now
adopt a different plan, which answers admirably.
By it I can keep the kernel of the nut fresh and
plump, from which the^skinj
almost os easily as whe

ej skin, car be. *e noved
< Ifchiiifek L h iftd. 1 SLt is

not difficult to keep them in a dried state bright
and clean, but in that case the kernel becomes
withered aud difficult to separate from the
skin.

My plan is as follows : After the Walnuts
have been off the tree three or four days they
must be examined. Such from which the green
shells come off easily must be the first to be
attended to. These must be thoroughly cleaned,
and, if necessary, where any particles adhere to
the nut a knife must be used to scrape them off.
Those from which it is difficult to remove the
outer shell should be laid on one side for a few
days longer. As they are cleaned we lay them
out in one of the vineries for four or five days
to dry. When all are ready we place a score or
more—say, about enough to make a dish—into
clean 6-inch pots ; a piece of slate is then made
to securely cover each pot, and a place is pre¬
pared for the pots under a wall m some odd
corner of the frame ground, where they are set
as close together as the slates which cover them
will allow. When all the pots are in their
places the whole is covered with sifted coal
ashes 6 inches in thickness, and from this store
they are withdrawn as wanted, one being able
to remove a single dish at any time without
disturbing the rest. By this plan we find that
Walnuts can be kept as long in good condition
as it is possible to keep them. J. C. C.

Tan as a mulching’. — I do not wonder
that “F.” has found tan useless in his Strawberry
beds. Its usefulness is supposed to depend on
its retaining much of its astringency, as it
did under old modes of tanning ; but modern
modes so exhaust it that it is little more
than vegetable fibre, and sawdust or Cocoanut
fibre would act auite as well, if not better,
being more finely divided, and therefore
forming the greater obstacle to the move¬
ment of the slugs. Many years ago, on the
recommendation of one of the gardening
journals, I put a thick layer of tan under my
Gooseberry bushes, but found it quite useless.
I have been little troubled with slugs on my
Strawberry beds, and think that the thick layer
of straw which I put round the plants is a
hindrance to their attacks. This is confirmed
by the fact that the fruit which is eaten is
generally that which has accidentally been left
on the ground under the straw.—W. M. C.,
Clapton.

Wasp-eaten Pears.— Now that the plague of wasps
is at its height, it may, perhaps, interest some of vour
readers to know that, if a valuable Pear is attacked, we
have found it a most successful plan to melt a little bees’-
wax, and pour it into the hole in the fruit. The air is
thereby excluded, and consequently the decay does not
spread. Of course it must be done when the Pear is
picked, before it is stored away.— Pelican.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11922. —Non-picturesque greenhouses.
—In answer to “C. J.,” I have to say that the
small greenhouse is heated by a Loughborough
amateur’s boiler, and a double row of 4-inch
pipes. To keep the flowers in winter I find it
necessary to kindle the fire nearly every night,
except in very mild weather, so as to secure a
pretty constant temperature of from 40 to 45
degs. and also to keep out damp. The
amount of firing required depends, however, a
good deal on the situation and aspect in which
the house is placed. Other information can be
obtained through the pages of Gardening.—
P. R.

11924. — Propagating Coleuses. — Co¬
leuses cannot be wintered in a cool greenhouse
in the mildest winters, even in the south
of England. Rooted cuttings can be bought
cheap in the spring, as advertised in Gardening
at that time. Cuttings will strike easily in a
cold frame, with a south aspect, in the summer
months. In early spring they can be struck in
a hotbed, or in a heated greenhouse under a bell-
glass.-L. C. K.

11919.—Shrubs for hedge.— For a hedge In an
exposed situation no evergreen can be better than the
Portugal Laurel; nor can we find a better deciduous tree
than the oommon Beech, which, as a hedge, retains its
russet foliage quite through the winter. Rhododendrons
require moisture at their roots, therefore they cannot
thrive on a dry gravelly subsoil ; a damp situation suits
them best.—T. S.

Keeping Grapes (J. Brown).— The best way is to cut the
bunch olT the vine when fully ripe, taking a good piece of
the wood with it, and place this in a bottle of water, and
set the bottle in a cool, airy room. Keep the bottle
replenished with water, as evaporation takes place.

Names Of plants.— Captain Barker.— Hibiscus

syriacus.- II. K. H. (Christowell).—The cut-leaved

variety of the common Blackberry.- J. Hartley. —Gail-

lardia grandiflora.- R. N.— Circa» luteliana.- if.

Guernsey. —Probably a Tagetes. Too withered to name
correctly.- W. Chavasse. —Bocconia cordata.- E. G. —

1, Send when in flower ; 2, Gnaphalium lanatum ; 3, Ver-

bascum nigrum.- A. B.—l, Cyrtomium folcatum; 2,

Adiantum formosum ; 3, Adi&ntum tenerum ; 4, Adiantum
hispidulum.- W. B.—l, Tradescantia repens vaiiegata ;

2, Alonsoa incisa ; 3, Sedum Rhodiola ; 4, Hypericum

calycinum.- South Devon.— Buddleia Lindleyana.-

S. J.— The Coleus appears to be identical with one called

multicolor, a very good sort.- Norman. —Yellow is

Rodriguezia secunda ; other is Zygopetalum Mackayi.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.—AH communication*
for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again

Naming plants.— Pour plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when good
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name varieties
Of florist* flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas,
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist who
has the means of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or flowers sent to name should always
accompany the parcel.

11967,— Lilium aura turn. —I have a Li Hum auratum
with 16 flower buds. I understand that this is somewhat
out of the ordinary, it being generally considered that the
average is much under this number.—G. A. Veazey. [Not
unusual, especially if the flower stem is fosciated, or flat¬
tened. Fasciated stems often bear half-a-hundred
flowers.— Ed.]

11968. -Church decorations.— Can any reader
recommend a small work on church decorations?—G. W.

11969.—Selection Of Lilies.— Please give the names
of hardy Lilies for open air culture. What should I do
with white Narcissi which did not bloom at all this spring ?

11970.—Lily of the Valley culture.— My Lily of
the Valley was two years in the same bed—not a sand bed.
It was removed from an old garden. Could age prevent
it giving any bloom ? Shoula Tiger Lilies be taken up for
the winter? They are in a sunny garden.—M. C.

11971.—Specimen Pelargoniums.— Will someone
kindly give me instructions upon growing large specimen
plants of Pelargoniums of the Vesuvius, Christine, and
the double classes ? 1 can never get them to grow' any
size, the leaves soon dropoff and the plants are almost bare.

I pot them in two-thirds loam, one-third manure and sand,
and have them well watered. Those I have in a box on a
window sill and in the open ground are the same.—J. J.

11972.— Sowing annuals.— What is the latest time
to sow annuals to bloom the same year? I often find that
successional sowing is recommended in Gardening. I
sowed some Sweet Peas at the commencement of July ;
they have only grown some 9 inches, and seem weak and
quite at a standstill. They are open to the sun and w ell
watered during the hot weather. Plants of Scabious,
Nicotiana, and French Marigold taken from seed boxes
and planted at the same time have grown into large
plants. Can you tell me the cause of tills?—J. J.

11973.— AlstrcBmeria and Anchusa. — Kindly
inform me how to raise from seed Anchusa italics and
Alstrcemeria, as I had some Bowed this spring in warm
seed box, and likewise sowed some in a cold frame. In
neither instance did a single seed oome up. Likewise,
where I could procure seed of Stoksia cyanea and how to
raise it.—J. J.

11974.—Fig tree culture.— How much may Fig trees
be pruned without injuring them? Should the suckers be
taken away? May the foliage be freely cut to admit sun
to the fruit? How are new trees propagated ?—J. St.

11976.—Nicotiana afflnis out of doors —Can the
plants be stopped early in the year to make them grow
shorter ? Do the flow ers ever keep open in the daytime ?
Will it be safe to leave the plants out of doors through the
winter in a sheltered position in South Hants ? Why do
they not grow and flower well in pots where there is no
artificial heat?—J. St.

11976.—Plaintain and Daisy roots on lawn.—
These roots, notwithstanding frequent removals with a
garden knife and a “spud” (or small hoe), continue to
disfigure my Grass. When more than a single weed grow
together, then removal as above causes a risible mark or
hole. Query, how best to remove them and at what cost,
say, per square yard, whore most thickly covered?—
X. Y. Z.

11977.— Flowers for small garden.— I have a
very small flower garden, in which I should like to have
bloom most, if not all, the year round. Will some
reader kindly inform me what plants will be best to attain
that end, and also the various times of planting them ? I
have no greenhouse.—S. W.

11978.—Lily of the Valley border.— Will someone
kindly inform me what is the best soil for Lilies of the
Valley and how far apart should the roots be planted ? I
wish to make a bed or them, and should like to know the
best w«y to grow thein-successf ully.—B.

11979.—Shalots mildewed.— This year I put 2 lb. of
seed in my garden, which is a small one. I fiaye lifted

Sept. 13 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

333

10 lb. Shalots, after all tops wero cut off. I was about
congratulating myself on such a fair result, which I attri¬
buted mainly to the dryness of the season, when, to my
annoyance, 1 found at least two-thirds of the bulbs were
afflicted by a black mildew. As I have taken every care
with the preparation of the ground, using coal ashes and
soot very- plentifully, and have been treated to a similar
surprise each year I have grown Shalots, I shall feel
obliged to any kind reader who will point out where I am
at fault, and so prevent a recurrence. I may add that I
was very particular in seeing that the Shalots were all
sun-dried, and they were all turned over daily for at least
a fortnight after being taken out of the ground— Disap-
PODOWD

11980. -Watering Fuchsias.—I have a quantity of
Geraniums and Fuchsias which I should like to keep
through the winter. Would it be healthy to keep them in
a room where two people sleep, as that is the only room
which I can spare beside a room which gets no sun and
faces north, therefore, I think that room would not do, as
most of the plants 1 tried to keep there last winter died ?—
T. H. V

11981.— Shrubs for the open air.— Would you
kindly give me some information as to whether the follow¬
ing plants, which I brought home with me from Italy, will
stand our winters planted out in the open ground ?—1,
Mespilus japonica ; 2, Edgworthia chrysantha ; 3, Eleagnus
reflexa ; 4, Akehia quinata (on a wall facing east); 5,
Spiraea Thunbergi ; 6, Spinea prunifolia ; 7, Ruscus
aculeatus ; 8, Daphne mdica, fol. var. ; 9, Camellias. My
soil is rather stiff.—C. V. Pattbnhacsbn, Rose Cottage ,
Forest Hill. [No. 5. 6. and 7 are perfectly hardy, 7 being a
native plant; 8 ana 9 will succeed in the open in warm
southerly localities ; 4 will thrive well against a wall about
London, but best with a south aspect; 1, 2, and 3 we do
not know ; probably they are synonymous with well-know n
shrubs.— Ed.]

11982.—Yellow flowered annual.—Will you kindly
tell me the name of the annual (of which the following is a
description), and where I can procure seed ? The flower,
when in bud, is like a Thistle, but opens in the shape of a
Maltese cross. Those that I had many years ago were pale
mauve, but I have also seen it a bright yallow.—E lla.
[You probably allude to the Sweet Sultan, Centaurea
suaveolens (yellow), and C. moschata (purplish). Pro¬
curable from any seedsman.]

11983.—Single Dahlias.—Several of my single
Dahlias bloom very poorly. I should like to know whether
this experience is general. Do single Dahlias, as a rule,
flower aB well as double ones ? Will someone give me the
names of the best white, sulphur, mauve, and scarlet
single Dahlias?—J. W.

11984.-Diseased Potato.—I enclose a Potato with a
curious black part inside (variety Rector of Woodstock).
I should like to know what the disease is, and any infor¬
mation as to culture that can be kindly given. The
Potato was grown in garden soil naturally sandy.—C. H.,
Silloond Cottage, Sunninghill. [Potatoes are frequently
found with a cavity inside. Tubers that grow rapialy to a
large size are more frequently found with an internal
cavity than those grown m poor gravelly soil. It cannot
be said to be a disease, nor is it the result of disease.
Nothing can be done to prevent an occasional occurrence
of this kind.-J. D. E.]

11985.—Selection of hardy flowers.—i want to
have a good regular show throughout the year, in garden
borders and front of shrubbery, of perennials or flowers
that sow their own seed where they have grown the
previous year, thus securing in those portions good flowers
without sowing annuals. What are the best flowers, time
of planting, be. 1 North of England.—X. Y. Z.

11986.—Flowers for sunny border.—Will anyone
name a few of the best flowers and bulbs to buy for a
border 1 foot wide, 30 feet long, so that it may look always

S y and bright, and well filled with flowers or shrubs all
e year ? It is a border under a wall, 15 feet to the south
and 15 feet to the east.— E. S. L.

11987.—Trapping woodlice.—Will someone inform
me if there are any means of trapping or destroying wood-
lice ? I have a Mushroom bed, and they are Just beginning
to come, and I fear that they will be very troublesome.—
H. Tuck.

11988.— Dwarf Roses.—Will your contributor,
** W. H. F. ” (page 302), kindly give me the names of seven
dwarf Standard Roses (distinct in colour) to form a group
suitable for a west aspect, quite sheltered from the east-
free bloomers, and which will bloom better in the autumn
than the summer.—A. W.

11989.—Moss on lawn.—Is not this a sign of infer!
ority ? It affects ornamental Grass only and not tennis
ground, and is bright, pretty, and soft except in extreme
dry weather.—X. Y. Z.

11990.—Heating a greenhouse.—I have a green-
houso, 8 feet by 12 feet, filled with Maiden-hair Ferns. Will
any reader kindly tell me if I can keep these through the
winter by means of an oil stove in the nouse, and which is
the best kind to have ? The house faces south.—W. M.

11991.—Grapes not colouring.—I should like an
opinion as to the reason of my Grapes not colouring
properly. Some have three or four red ones, some more,
some colour very well. I have two houses joining ; one is

E looted inside and one out. Both are the same, and same
ind of Grape—Black Hamburg. They ore very clean
and healthy, wood is ripe and strong; a fair crop, not
heavy, one bunch to a shoot. After beginning to colour I
give little air at night in fine weather, cease watering, fire
a little during dull and damp weather. I may mention
in front of vinery 30 feet stands a large Tulip tree, which
shades the house two hours in middle of day. The tree is
about 40 to 45 feet high. Sir, will you kindly give me
your opinion?—C. J., Colchester.

11992.— Robins in gardens.— At the back of |my
house I have a garden, about 600 yards of grass, shrubs,
&c. We have always plenty of sparrows, but seldom see a
robin, though there are some in the neighbourhood. Can
you please tell me what to do to induce them to frequent
it ? and oblige—J. A. 8.

11993.—Vegetables where fowls are kept.—
Can some reader kindly inform me what fruits and vege.
tables can be profitably grown in a garden whero fowls
always have freo access every day of the year ? By some
giving thoir experiences it will, doubtless, impart know¬
ledge to otfoer* m veil M-€fc 4 *wiQrNT,

Digitized b V COOgle

BEES.

SEASONABLE NOTES.

The honey season, now fast drawing to a close,
has been of a most exceptional character. From
the middle of May to the present time the
weather has been bright and genial, honey
gathering has gone on almost without a check,
and it is generally acknowledged by bee-keepers
to have been the best honey season during the
last eight years. In fact, the honey market is
at present overstocked, buyers having on their
hands more extracted honey than they know
what to do with. Neatly-finished sections, con¬
taining 1 lb. each of white comb honey, if
exhibited in an attractive form, will, however,
always command a market.

Removing supers. —All supers and sections
should now be removed, it being too late to
expect them to be finished this season. Entire
racks of sections should be removed from bar-
frame hives and taken to some sheltered spot,
or into an outhouse, when the sections can be
removed, the finished ones stored (secure from
wasps and robber bees), and the unfinished ones
either extracted or returned to the hive for the
bees to clear out, and store the contents in the
body of the hive, which they will quickly do if
nothing more is to be obtained in the fields.
When cleared out by the bees the sections of
empty comb can be reserved for another season,
when they will be found most valuable in giving
the bees a good start in the super department.
The removal of straw supers and bell-glasses is
a little more difficult on account of the trouble
sometimes experienced in inducing the bees to
leave them. It may, however, be successfully per¬
formed in the following manner :—After having
passed a thin knife round under the rim of the
super, and having drawn a piece of string or fine
wire between it and the hive, to disconnect any
combs that may have been fixed to the
crown of the hive, blow into the super a
little smoke, and remove it some distance
away from the hive or into a dark room,
having a small aperture to admit light, when
the bees will soon leave, and return to the
hive. If the super is left in the open air while
the bees leave strict watch must be kept, as
robber bees may be attracted who will make
short work of clearing out the store. When the
queen excluder is not used it sometimes happens
tnat the queen is in the super on its removal.
It may be concluded that this is the case when
the bees in the super show no uneasiness ; but
the hive from which it was taken is seen to be
in a great state of confusion, arising from the
fact of the bees having discovered the loss of
their queen. When this is discovered the super
shoula be returned, and the operation repeated
the next day. The destruction of the drones by
the worker bees is always a sure sign of the
close of the honey season. They are driven
from the combs and destroyed, and may be
found in heaps upon the floor board.

Robbers. —The close of the honey season is
also characterised by robbing and fighting
amongst bees. Robbers are tnen constantly
prowling about the apiary, and if they once gain
admission without resistance a hive is soon
robbed of all its stores. Wasps are also at this
season very troublesome, making free with weak
hives more especially. If a number gain admis¬
sion into a hive the bees are seldom able to eject
them. The most effectual way of checking
their attack upon a hive is to narrow its
entrance. The bees are thus the better able to
defend themselves, as they arc well able to
guard a small aperture. The doors of all hives
should therefore be contracted as soon as the
honey season ends. All should be done that is
possible to defend hives from the attacks of
wasps, for, being so much superior in strength
and activity, they not only take the honey, but
destroy large numbers of bees. Their nests
should be searched for, and the wasps destroyed
by pouring a little turpentine, tar, or paraffin
into the hole leading to the nest, and covering
up with clay. If this be performed in the even¬
ing when the wasps are within the whole colony
will be at once destroyed. Many may be taken
In wjde-mouthed pickle bottles, partly filled
with a mixture of beer, sugar, and water, and
put about in places most frequented by them.
Another enemy bees have to contend with is
the grub of the wax-moth. The moth may be
wen jo tbe vicipity of £he hive* pn warm even¬

ings, and will be sure to gain an entrance to
hives that are not strong in bees, where she
will deposit eggs in large numbers in crevices, or
on any combs not covered by the bees. From
the time the grub hatches till it has attained
its full growth, a period of three weeks, it feeds
upon wax pollen, and brood, working its way
through the combs, Bpinning a silky film in
the direction of its movements. If all stocks be
kept strong the moth has small chance of
effecting an entrance.

Boxworth. S. S. G.

Destroying bees.— Can you tell me how to destroy
bees, which are, to our great discomfort.in the roof of my
house ? I have tried several plans.—J. E. Yonob.

POULTRY.

Feather-eating fowls.— Will "Andalusian” kindlv
say what quantity of acetate of morphia per fowl and how
given ? Is not petroleum ointment vaseline?—A. J. P.

Rattling in fowl’s throat. -Will you kindly
furnish an enquirer and reader of your paper, Gardkxixo
Illustrated, with information as to the cure of a rattling
sound in the throat of a favourite Minorca cock, other¬
wise in apparent good health and condition ?— Wibhpul.

Poultry breeding.—" L. M.” thanks " Andalusian ”
for his opinion, and would feel further obliged if he could
say where she could meet with the breed without fear of
having black chicks, which, she thinks, must be more
than a mere sport, as they are so numerous. “ L. M.” has
eleven pullets hatched lost spring from eggs procured
from Jackson and from Gregory, six of them are black,
but fine fow'is. Though she did away with the latter, she
expects the same results would happen again in the
progeny of the well-marked hens.

i a Brahma cockerel.— Will somcono

kindly inform me the points of a pure prize-bred dark
Brahma cockerel, and what should be his weight at eight
months old ? Would a white feather in the plumage on
the toes be a disqualification ?—N. 8. B.

BIRDS.

INSECTS ON CAGE BIRDS.

The following remarks may be useful to those
who are anxious to promote the comfort and
happiness of their feathered pets. Insects are
often the cause of disease in birds kept in cages.
The poor little prisoners become so wretched
and emaciated that they frequently die under
the suffering inflicted by their tormentors. How
is it possible for any bird or animal in a state of
captivity to cleanse themselves, unless oppor¬
tunities are given them to do so, as instinct
teaches them ? A tin bath may be bought for a
few pence, which, if hung on to door of cage
for half an hour every day, will keep them
healthy and clean.

In the first place, I strongly advise those un¬
accustomed to handling birds not to attempt so
dangerous an experiment as to wash them in
any poisonous solution. The birds seldom re¬
cover from the effects of the thorough wetting,
more especially those birds which are never
handled or seldom bathe. The fright will some¬
times cause them to die in your hand, or they
may break a wing or leg in their struggles to
free themselves, and they always take cold and
either die of consumption in a month or two,
or of cold in the head or bowels. Of what use
to wash your bird and then put him back into
the infested cage ? In an hour he will be in the
same condition. Remember the old adage,
“Prevention is better than cure.” An old in¬
fested cage had better be burnt; but beware
of a cage that is purchased of a dealer in birds,
they are always infested with red mite. Red
mites are part of the stock-in-trade of the bird
dealers, so be sure to thoroughly cleanse a new
cage before putting your bird into it.

Alum may be bought for 3d. a lb. at oil¬
men’s. Dissolve 1 lb. of alum by boiling in
water; when cold thoroughly saturate every
part of your cage if possible, allowing cage-
boxes and sand-tray to stand in the solution.
The alum may be used more than once if bottled
or put in jar. Once a week in summer cages
should be saturated with alum water. It will
not injure birds. Another plan I have tried
with success is to well varnish cages. Buy a
penny paint brush, half-pint brown hard varnish,
quarter-pint methylated spirits of wine. Mix,
and well paint every part of cage, seed-boxes,
every crack and cranny ; be sure to drop some
into holes at top and bottom, where the wires
are inserted, for the smaller the crevice the
likelier they are to be occupied. Of coureo
the perches must not bo varnished but should
he ofle£, J>ry black lead will prevcqt

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

334

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 13 , 1884 .

from sticking. Be sure to thoroughly dry and
set the varnish before returning your bird to
cage. By following the above you will soon rid
your birds of insects. I shall be happy to
answer any questions on the management of
birds in sickness, so far as I am able to do so.

Lady Amateur Bird-breeder.

ge —Are the sheep-starlinjr,
crake, and peewit birds of passage ! Any information will
oblige.—A Constakt Reader

Birds of passage

eewlt birds

REFUSE SOIL.

“ Our bank” is the name which the men in the
garden have given to a large heap of soil, the
result of collecting all the refuse of the garden
into a heap and allowing it to remain until it
has become sufficiently rotted to be in the con¬
dition of mould. They call it a “ bank” because
the supply never gets exhausted, forwhile we
are using up one heap another is in preparation.
However, by whatever name it may be called,
it is capital material for many purposes. Being
for the most part vegetable mould, there are
but few plants which refuse to grow in it. This
rubbish neap is conveniently situated to receive
all the refuse of the garden, and having plenty
of space we make one heap receive all the
gatherings for one year. This is then turned
over and put into shape ; another heap is then
commenced by the side of it, to which is taken
all the refuse of the kitchen garden, such as
Cabbage and Cauliflower stumps and leaves,
Pea and Potato haulm, annual weeds, sweepings
of walks and clippings of hedges, as well as the
refuse from the potting bench—in fact, this is
the receptacle for everything that will in a rea¬
sonable time become decomposed, and it is asto¬
nishing how quickly such material rots into
mould. The only objection to its use is that
wherever it is employed a good crop of weeds is
sure to be the result. We do not, however,
mind that, as, having but a very thin stratum
of good soil for our vegetable crops, we are glad
to use it in order to increase the depth. More¬
over, we do not find it introduce more weeds
than ordinary farmyard manure, and even
if it did, the value of this refuse is more than a
set-off against the weeds, for even if I could get
permission I should not on this large estate
know where to go to find its equal for so many
purposes. We are just now overhauling our
heaps and turning over for the last time the one
reaay for use, which contains one year’s
collectings from a kitchen garden two acres in
extent. By a competent authority it is esti¬
mated that this heap contains fifteen cart-loads
of rich fertilising material, and it simply costs
nothing but the labour involved in turning it
over twice.

We are just now preparing to start a fresh
heap. That which has been collected during
the past year will be turned over, and that part
of it which was first brought together will
already be far advanced in a state of decomposi¬
tion ; the roughest and freshest material
will be placed in the centre, and that
which is most decayed will be put on the
top and outside. About this time next year the
whole of it will be turned over, when it will be
found fit for use for any purpose for which it
may be required. The same process is repeated
from year to year ; therefore the actual refuse

perennial roots, and the charred refuse is in¬
valuable for use amongst crops of all kinds. |
For the covering of seed beds and for earthing
seedling plants it is most serviceable. For this
purpose it should be sifted before it is used. As
a dressing for the kitchen garden, where the
soil is heavy, it is better than animal manure if
used alternately with it—i.c., one year manure
com- 1 an( * the next burnt refuse. When run through
a rather fine-meshed sieve it is a capital reno¬
vator for exhausted lawns where the Grass is thin
and the soil poor. In such a case a thin layer
should be laid on in November and another
early in February. J- C. C.

HOUSEHOLD.

Apple jelly.—Apples, sugar, water. Pare
and cut the Apples into slices, put them into
cold water sufficient to cover them, and boil
until the pieces are quite soft. Then put the
'p into a jelly-bag hung between two chairs
and a basin below to catch the juice, and allow
it to drain until all the liquid is drained away,
but on no account squeeze the jelly-bag while the
Apple pulp is in it, or the jelly will have a muddy
appearance. To every pound of juice allow one
pound of loaf sugar, put both into the preserv¬
ing-pan, and boil for exactly half an hour. Then
pot, cover, and label. Only sour cooking Apples
should be used for making jelly, as sweet Apples
make a syrup of the consistency of treacle, and
cannot be made to jelly.

Vegetarian roast duck.— Peel a Vegetable
Marrow and cut it in halves; stuff these with Sage and
Onions, and place them in a tin inside downwards ; brush
a little warm butter on the top, sprinkle with pepper and
salt, and bake them in a sharp oven. Serve with mashed
Potatoes and butter sauce, using a sliced brown Onion
in the butter for the sauce. I can recommend this as the
cheapest and tastiest dinner anyone ever partook of.—
W. C.

Plum jam.— Plums, sugar. Cut each Plum in halves
and remove the stone, and if the skin is not liked, remove
it also. Put the Plums in a preserving pan, and add to
every pound of fruit one pound of sugar Then crack the
stones which have been removed from the fruit, sew them
in a muslin bag, and put them into the pan with the fruit
they give the Jam a nice flavour. Boil for half an hour.

FLOWERS AT CHRISTMAS

AND IN EARLY SPRING.

Fine Sound Bulba by Return, Post Free.

Per doz

Roman Hyacinths, pure white, deliciously
scented, flowers well in cold greenhouse. 50,

7s. fld.; 100, .. 20

Poly. Narcissus, Paper white, indispensable,

50, 5s. fld. ; 100, 10s..

Poly. Narcissus, Double Roman, 50,

6«. fld.; 100, ..

Poly. Narcissus, mixed varieties, veiy
useful for cutting, all free flowering sorts, 50,

6s. fld.; 100,10s.

Tulips. Scarlet Van Thol, La Candeur,
grand double white, and Yellow Prince, each

50, Ss. ; 100, 5s. fld.

Allium neapolitanum, flowers like a small
Paper white Narciss., 100, 5s.

Ornlthogalum arahicum, now so much grown

for Covent Garden, white .

Hyacinths, for pots or glasses, 12 named

sorts .

Crocus, white, blue, or yellow, per 100, 1*. 6d.

Double Daffodils, roots collected on Mount
Vesuvius, will flower earlier than English grown,

50, 3s. fld.; 100, 6s. fld.

Chlonodoxa Lucilisa, a lovely little gem for the

spring garden.

Jonquils, true single, sweet scented, 50, 2s. 9d. ;

100 , ..

Anemones fine large flowered strain, 50, 2s.:

100, 3s. fld. ’ .

C. KILMISTER, F.R.H.S.,

128, North Street, Brighton.

1 6

1 9

1 6

1 0

3 0

4 6

1 0
1 6

0 9
0 6

CEORGE BOYES & CO.

C!TRIKE CUTTINGS NOW, dibble 3 inches

apart in road grit, out of doors. Will make good plants
for winter blooming.

HERANIUMS.—Beatrix (new), Egeria (new),
VJ Mrs. Strutt, Lizard, Sybol Holden, H6rfl. Lizzie Brooks.
Haidee, Wonderful, Olive Carr. One of each, post free, la,
P.O.

HUTTINGS. — Strong, healthy cuttings. —

VJ Pelargoniums, Miss Gladstone, Madame Perrard.
Emperor of Russia, Mabel. Ne Plus Ultra,! 3ca f le l,£?“’
Triomphe de Bt. Maude, Bertie Boyes. Duke of Albany,
Duchess of Bedford. One of each, post free, Is., P.O.
PEARSON’S splendid winter-blooming Gera-
JT niums, 10 strong well-rooted plants, all diBtinct var.,
3s., P.O., post free. _

A Y L E STO N E PAR K , L EIOE8TER._

HHEAP DAFFODILS, 12 bulbs Is. free, 24

\J Is. 7d. free. These are the charming sweet-scented single
yellow; plant at once for early spring bloom. Last long time
cut state. —MORLEY & Co . Fulwood. Pres ton.

AST OFFER.—WINTER HELIOTROPE

I (Petasites fragrans).—This delightfully scented hardy
flower will grow in any out-of-the-way corner in garden;
blooms in depth of winter 2 plants, Is. 2d., free; 4, Is. 10d.,
free.—MORLEY & CO., Fulwood. Preston.

T AST OFFER.—SWEET LAVENDER.—12

AJ plants. Is., free: 24, Is. 9d., free. Plant at once, quite
hardy ; foliage and flower of this old English plant are very
Bweet scented; nice for pot culture.—MORLEY k CO.,
Fulwood , Pre ston.__

T AST OFFER—SCENTED SALVIA.—

-Ll Foliage is delightfully scented, pretty magenta bloom in
winter; more grown for foliage than flower; 3 plants, 3s. 2d.,
free.—MORLEY & CO., Fulwood, Preston.

UULBS! BULBS! Best named Hyacinths,
U for glasses, pots, or forcing, 3s., 3s. 6d., 4b., ^°<***;.**;
doz.; bedding ditto, 1 h. 8d. per doz., 13«. per 100 , finest mixerl
Crocus, Is. per 100, 9s. per 1.000; finest udxed double Tub™,
fld. doz., 4s. per 100; ditto, good mixture. 4d. doz.. 2s^d
per 100; mixed Narcissus, Is. doz., 7s. 6d- per 100. Catalogue
free.—B. SOPPY, Seedsman, &c.. 243, Walworth-road., b.E.

TAST OFFER.—RARE HOLLY FERN,

Jj with thorns like miniature Holly leaves, hardy plant, Is.,
free; 2, Is. 6d. MORLEY & CO., Fulwood. Preston.

2 WHITE, 2 blue, and 2 pink sweet-scented

Hyacinths, to bloom at Christmas, Is. 9d., free. Pot
bulbs at once, very easily grown, four of each variety, 3s. 3d.,
free.—MORLEY & CO., Fulwood. Preston.

■DOR CHARMING EARLY SPRING BLOOM.

JL —Few flowers equal the beautiful Anemones, being
jerfectly hardy, Btand severe winters with impunity, 50 roots
.'or present planting Is. 10d., free, 100 3s. 6d., enough for hand¬
some bed, mixed colours, once seen in bloom always grown. -
MORLEY k CO , Fulwood, Preston.

PANSIES A SPECIALITY.—Show and fancy

■L Pansy cuttings, finest named prize varieties, from fine
healthy stock, sure to give satisfaction. Is. 6d k 3s. per doz., free
—ALEXANDER LISTER, Gay field Nursery, Rothesay . N.B

NTARCISSUS POETICUS RECURVUS.—A
!Y variety of Pheasant’s Eye. with the petals recurving

Nurs eries, Reading. Established 1862. ___.

PAMELLIAS, with five to eight buds. Busby

\J plants, 18 inches high, named, 2 b. each; Azaleas, named.
20 budB, 15 inches high. 12 inches diameter, 2s, each ; Ole¬
anders, 2 feet high, and bushy, 9d. each; Palms, fine p’antfl.
Is. 6d. each ; Dractenas, 3 sorts, Is. each ; Ericas, 1 foot high,
9d. each. 3 plants, post free Is. extra, 1 plant 6A exJa;
Chrysanthemums, fine, 3s. dozen.—W. CULLINGFORD,
Forest Gate, K

of the garden is converted into a useful and ITTRRY CHEAP, choice and fine BULBS.—

valuable fertiliser. There are many gardens in V Before purchasing elsewhere send for our cheap list. All

-. - " - 'of finest quality. If not satisfactory money returned —

MORLEY & CO., Fulwood, Preston.

TVyTR. R. W. BE ACHE Y offers strong, well-

1Y1 rooted, healthy plants. Nearly 20 years’ practical experi¬
ence as a devoted amateur and successful exhibitor enables him
now, as a grower for sale, to dispose of plants only which he has
proved to be worthy of cultivation. No rubbish is kept For
Fuchsias, Geraniums, Begonias .Pansies, Violas, kc.
catalogue.—Finder, Kingskersweli, Devon._

DEACHEY’S SWEET VIOLETS.

D collection in England.—Comte Brazza’s i

which the soil is poor and thin that would be
benefited by converting their refuse into manure
instead of allowing it to be taken out of the way
altogether. Where there is not space to devote
to it in the way I have described, the next best
plan would be to char it. To do this some little
attention to the fire is necessary to prevent any¬
thing like burning. There is not much fear of a con¬
flagration ; the nature of the materials will prevent
that; but still, if the fire is at any time neglected
after a body of heat is obtained, the material will
waste faster than is desirable. Therefore,
watch the fire, and as it finds its way through
at different places cover it up again with some
more material. Occasionally it mav be desir¬
able to uncover the fire altogether and rake down
to the bottom Borne of the half-burnt rubbish,
and by a little management start the fire again
on the top; the lower part all round will take
care of itself.

This plan has mueh^to recomme»d it, as it I —ll I
effectually destToysjthe Yltahiy pfijEkU seeds and and 2s, 6d —R. W. BEACHEY, Kingskersweli, Devonshire. '

Finest

collection in England.—Comte Brazza’s new double
White Neapolitan or Swanley White, the moBt beautiful and
sweetest Violet ever raised, 9s. per doz.; New York, finest
double Violet; De Parrae, splendid double lavender; Belle
de Chatcnay, largest double white ; Double Red Russian, all
3s. 6d. per dozen plants; 7s. 6d. dozen clumps, for pots or
frames. List of 26 double and single varieties, with instruc¬
tions how to grow; also Roses and Carnations, 2d., free.—
Kingskers weli. Devo n.

PEACHEY’S PRIZE ROSES.—Order now, to

-D secure best plants. Finest Rhow varieties. Dwarfs,
7s. fld. dozen. 26s. fifty, £210s. hundred. List—Kingskersweli,

Devonshire.

PEACHEY’S SEEDS, for Present Sowing.—

■D Just saved. Giant Polyanthus, all colours—white,
yellow, crimson, fancy, laced, 7d. and Is. packet; Hybrid
Primrose, very choice, Including new shade* of blue, 2». 6d.

fUNERARIAS, choice strain, ready for flower-

U ing-pots. 2s.; smaller ones, transplanted. Is 6d. doz.;
PrimulasTnice healthy plants. Is. fld. doz. ; Maiden-hairi era,
grown in coolhouse. strong, healthy plants, la each, free.-
JAMES TA YLOR, Flo rist. Bt anwix, Carlisle. _.

OFECIAL OFFER.—Twelve beautiful Bou-

O rirdiaa in six choice varieties, including Alfred Neuner
and SSS&AGarfield, for 4s. free.-W. BARRACK, Castle
Gardens, Kendal. ____

BARRACK, Castle Gardens, Kendal,

invites attention to his SPECIAL OFFER of first-

w.

rate flowering plants, thoroughly recommended towlnt«’
blooming, viz -GERANIUMS in 5-inch pots. Is. each, in¬
cluding F. V. Raspiel, Vesuvius, Hem? Jacoby, and Won¬
derful BOW ARDLA.S, very best vaneti^ in 3-inch poU.

doz • 5-inch pots, 9s. doz. Choice PRIMULAS and
CINERARIAS, in 3-inch pots, 3s. doz. New Troweolum,
"Kendal Castle,” splendid vermilion flowers, 6<L each. Also
the following, in fine plants, viz., Pilea muecosa (Artillery
Plant), Ptem serrulata cristata, and Begonia Rex, fld. each.
Adiantum Capill ua-Vaneris, 5Hnch pots, 9d. each. -

flARN ATIONS AND PICOTEES. — Fine

\J seedlings from a splendid collection of choice-named
flowers. Pot doz.. Is. 6d P ; per 100 10s. fld. Extra strong, per
doz., 2s. 6d.; per 100. 17 b. 6d„ carriage free.

DANIELS BROS., Town Close Nurseries, Norwich.

n IN ER ARIAS.—Fine healthy transplanted

\J seedlings, from a grand strain of large andbnlliantly-

planS^^ML^^'or^' pStftjie. PW ^\!ffiul^ ill^trated
catalogue of Dutch flower roots free on a; plication.

DANIELS BROS.,

Royal Norfolk Seed Est ablishment, Norwich. _

PARCENER WANTED, near London. whoso
U wtf, »iU njfeJ*

10

URBANA-CHAMPAfGN

wife will undertake the laundry. One under gardener.
Add^T?. at MttnZ VAC HER k SONS, 29, Parliament-

streot, London, 8.W.

0 Q

k

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

8

I

I

(

1

Vol. VL

SEPTEMBER 20, 1884.

No. 289.

manner; andthusthesepleasingcombinations can
only be maintained by frequent renewals. The
exact cause of this sudden dying off does not at
present appear to be well understood, as some
of our principal growers differ considerably in
their conclusions respecting it. Although some
plants die outright, others will start into
growth again from the root in the succeeding
year, and this fact only makes the subject more

f erplexing. There must, of courso, be a cause,
s it from olimatio influence, improper cultiva¬
tion, parasitic affection, or inherent disease?
My own impression is that it is the result of in¬
sects attacking the roots, but I must admit that
I have not yet been able to discover, although I
have carefully inspected numerous affected
plants, sufficient cause to fully substantiate this
belief. At the same time, the sudden collapse
of the plant while in full and vigorous growth,
and tho fact that when examined the rootlets in
many instances show signs of injury, and also
that somo of the plants again start into growth
from under the surface after & period of rest,
each tend to point to sudden and partial injury i
rather than to constitutional disease. Having !

breaks in February to divide the root, taking
some part into the greenhouse, putting another
in a sheltered spot, and leaving the rest to take
its chance again, as one lady from Yorkshire
declared hers bloomed in open air without any
protection. If any one cares to follow tho
fortunes of this very desirable but extremely
troublesome plant—the only thing which ever
made me wish I did live in Liberia—it will give
mo much pleasure to record its future history in
its divided state, after next winter shall have
developed the same, and providing that the
winter of 1884, though not exactly Arctio, npr
yet fatal to my Dielytra, may not yet have
proved so to— An Old Lady.

Daturas.—“J. D.” asks, “What small
amateur grows Daturas ?” Well —I do ; and I
am so small an amateur that I have groped my
way, only taught by experience to a few facts
concerning it, in which I cannot support
“J. D.’a” rather slight observations. It can,
it is true, “ be raised from seed,” not exactly
“ easily,” for it requires heat, and more heat to
push on the young plants in their flrst pots pro¬
perly, and if the summer be not rather dry and
very hot, there will not be many blos¬
soms on the Daturas, though they may
form good plants to pot and return to
^ the greenhouse in autumn ; for when
properly treated they are not annuals,
but will blossom better the second year,
or even quite late the first year under
glass, the wood being first well ripened,
and the plants kept rather dry. But the
directions in catalogues are wholly mis¬
leading, at least to a gardener in the
midlands. They should not bo sown in
tho border, even late in spring. They
may come up, but they will not flower,
and flowers are what we want. But
my object in writing is not to discuss
“ J.D.’a” statements, but really to elicit
further observations as to Datura culture,
and especially as to tho most desirable
kind to grow, for about the worth and
beauty of it there can bo no question.
I have before me, as I writo, an exquisite
half-open bloom, which I removed from
the plant, which was being potted three
days ago. I have opened the bud by
“a visit to its native air,” for, in fact,
it was raised on my mantelpiece. It is
creamy white, with delicate mauve
stripes outside, and the faintest pencil¬
ling of the same shade within. This
is ceratocaulon, which “J. D.’Vandlthe
catalogue call white. I have also Chlo-
mntha fl. pi. It chanced that a few

8AXIFRAGA DIVERSIFOLIA.

This plant is a recent introduction from the
Himalayas, and a distinot and welcome odo it
is ; in suitable soil it grows vigorously. Here
it sucoeeds best in a bog bed made up for Oyprl-
pedium spoctabile, Lilium superbum, and plants
of that class, and it likes partial shade. Under
Buch conditions it rapidly becomes a strong tuft,
and throws up numerous flower-stems from
1 $ feet to 2 feet high, bearing paniculate heads
of bright yellow cup-shaped blossoms thickly
covered with orange-coloured dots. The illus¬
tration shows but a small spray of it, the
strongest stems here bearing as many as twenty
flowers. It is quite easily propagated either by
division or seeds. Its specific name is quite
characteristic, inasmuch as there is a great
diversity both in the size and shape of its
leaves. The radical ones have petioles longer
than the blades, which are about 2 inches long
by 1 inch broad. The stem leaves are sessile,
partly clasping, and the largest are about
2fc inches long and 1J inches broad. A
curious circumstance about the plant is
that the imported seeds produced no n

variety; whereas home-saved seeds show t

already a tendency to vary. I have one ^

miniature the total height of which is T

barely I inch, and the radical leaves
three-quarters of an inch by one-quarter ^
of an inch. Another is quite the
opposite ; it has broad, almoBfc circular
leaves, and is a very robust plant. In
dry soils and sunny spots its foliage is
liable to become blackened, curled up,
and the whole plant gets stunted and
never shows its true character. T, 8.

ROSES AND CLEMATISES.

Tub Rose is a plant that so readily
adapts itself to the purposes for which it
is required that it is not difficult to
induce it to associate agreeably with
other plants, and one of its most suitable
companions is the Clematis. Whether
it be the pearly C. montana or the
snowy C. Flammula that is closely
associated with the Ayrshire, Boursault,
Banksian, or Sempervirens Rose, trailing
over the cottage porch, the rusting
fence, the rugged rootery, or up the
trunk and leafless branches of some
forest troe, or where they are even still
more beautiful, rambling at will in un¬
restricted luxuriance in the wild or
woodland garden ; or whether it be tho
deep violet-tinted C. Jackmanni, or one
of its similarly coloured descendants,
intermingling with Marshal Niel, straggling,
over tho sunny half-ruined wall, tho effect is in¬
variably pleasing; but when seen as an appro¬
priate edging, as a carpet or groundwork to
dwarf, thinly planted, pegged-down Rose beds,
the appearance is, if possible, even still more
beautiful. A mass of the Souvenir de la Mal-
maison Rose in full flower with an edging of C.
lanuginosa, a few shoots creeping carelessly over
the bare soil underneath, and occasionally
entwbiing themselves round a casual shoot of its
more sturdy companion, exposing on all 6idea
its marvellous star-like c«?rulean blooms iu
fcreet harmony with the delicate blush of tho
Hoses overhead, is a sight worth seeing. Tho
rrimson Charles Lefebvrc, too, in full vigour and
bloom, surrounded and carpeted by the beauti¬
ful C. lanuginosa Candida, with its numerous
eatiny white stars, makes when planted together
in a bed a pleasing contrast; or the good old
<ileire de Dijon, clothed in all its immitablo
beauty, associated with the deep mauve-coloured ,
C. Mrs. Hope, produces an equally good effect.
There,are always, however, two sides to a
picture, and the reverse side to this one at the
*. " tendenoy of the

Flowos-stem of SxxNragn dtveralfolla (colour yellow).

beon informed, on good authority, that this
affection is very prevalent throughout tho
country, I for one, being deeply interested in
Clematis culture, should feel glad if from any
discussion of the subject the real cause of tho
evil could bo made clear, and so perhaps lead to
the discovery of a specific which w«uld arrest
its progress. W. C. T.

Dielytra epectabilis.— In gratitudo to
many kind writers in Gardening to whom my
question concerning this beautiful spring gem
seemed a kind of incitement to utter their
various opinions and experiences, I now beg to
record that a largo plant in an exposed and
sunny bed failed, notwithstanding much care,
to preservo untouched by frost tho early spikes
of bloom. Wo succeeded in preserving tho
foliage, however, and as the plant was iu May
and June covered with a second crop of flowers,
it was an object of great beauty far on into tho
summer. Shall we still, I venture to ask,
persist in calling a plant “hardy” which,
though a native of Siberia, no longer behaves as
a hardy plant under tho conditions of its life and
flowering in our climato ? The fierce sun of this
summer has entirely burnt up the foliage, but I
suppose it is not dead; and I purpose if it

present time is the unforti
finer varieties of Clematie j
intentions, die away in a '

Digitized by

Gck igle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Sept. 20, 1884]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

337

glass and giving them plenty of room. Zonal I
varieties, both single and doable, required for
flowering through the winter should be got in.
If their blooms are wanted early they ought to
have a little more warmth than that of an ordi¬
nary greenhouse. Seedlings of herbaceous Cal¬
ceolarias, if not potted off, should immediately
be attended to ; they like a little leaf-mould in
the soil, and also rotten manure.

Flower Garden.

Propagating cuttings of all ordinary bedding
plants put in a month ago will now be fairly
established in the pots or boxes in which they
are to pass the winter ; all now required to be
done, therefore, is to keep them clear of decay¬
ing leaves, and as dry as possible consistent
with health. If, however, it be desired to
increase any particular kind to the fullest
extent, probably another batch of cuttings may
be obtained by this time; these may be taken
off and inserted, and in the case of Pelargoniums,
put on a shelf near the glass. At the same time,
it is well to bear in mind that many soft-wooded
plants are so easily of increase in spring that
large numbers may be had from a few store pots
by bedding out time, a consideration where
room is limited. Such plants as Fuchsias, Helio-

THB COMING WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Stove plants. — Plants completing their
growth should be encouraged to ripen their
wood, a matter of the greatest importance as
regards their blooming well next year. Under
the head of deciduous flowering plants may be
included Allamandas, the twining Cleroden-
drons, Vincas, Ariatolochias, Bougainvilleas,

Hexacentris, and Thunbergias, for though many
of these are not, strictly speaking, deciduous in
their habit, still the most approved way of
managing them is to so far check shoot extension
in autumn as to cause them to shed most of
their leaves. All such plants as the above
should now, as far as possible, be moved to the
coolest end of the house, giving all the air that
is needful to admit at the end in which they are
placed, and applying no more water than is
requisite to prevent the leaves from shrivelling
up, allowing them to flag freely each time before
water is given. Achimenes, Gloxinias, Tydreas,

Curcumas, Gloriosas, tho summer-flowering
bulbous-rooted Geaneros, and Caladiums should
also, where their tops are yet fresh, be kept dry
enough to cause thefoliage to die down gradually.

Stephanotis that
flowered early,
and which have
since made suffi¬
cient growth,
should now be
kept as dry os
they will bear
without injury to
the foliage, but it
is not well to ex¬
pose the plants
to too low a tem¬
perature, or the
roots are liable to
suffer and defi¬
cient bloom to be
the result. Gar¬
denias and Ixoras
that have been up
to this time ac¬
commodated with
enough heat to
keep up the for¬
mation of enough
growth and flower
buds should not
be allowed to get
much below 70
degs. at night.

Under this treat¬
ment, with a
proportionate in¬
crease of heat in
the daytime, they
will keep on
flowering freely
for the next two
months. Winter
blooming plants
annually grown
from cuttings,

such as Poinsettias, Euphorbia jacquinixfiors, tropes, &c., that are desired in flower early in
Eranthemum pulchellum, Plumbago rosea, | spring, should now be established in small pots,
Thyrsacanthus rutilans, Sericograpnis Ghies- but if the insertion of the cuttings has been
breghti, and Begonias, should, if not already ! delayed, no time should now be lost in putting
done, be put where they can receive sufficient them in, and it should be noted that, as a rule,
heat to keep them from receiving a check on cold a young cutting not only strikes readier, but is

New French compact gold-striped Marigold. Half natural size. (See page 390.)

ing

nights, or they will move slowly when an
attempt is made to push them on into flower.

Greenhouse plants.— The greenhouse should
be made ready for the reception of all such
plants as have been out-.of-doors during summer.
Camellias out-of-doors should at once have room
prepared for them, or provision made to protect
them, for although hardier than the common
Laurel, yet when their flower-buds are prominent,
such as will be the case where they are expected
to bloom early, they will not bear either frosty
nights or saturation at the roots. Whatever
tying Azaleas require should be oompleted at
once, but if only wanted for home decoration
▼ery little support in this way is needed.
Chrysanthemums should now be liberally sup¬
plied with manure water, or else have a
stimulant such as soot or some of the artificial
manures applied to the surface of the soil so
that it may be washed down to the roots. Pelar

g oniums, if out-of-doors', sHouLfl be at obce^ got
ito houfu? or pits, pitting (tfcfe n c4q4c| (o the

less liable to go off than one of older growth.

Lilies. —As these die down, whatever potting
or renewal of the surface soil is requirod, will be
much better carried out now than later on, os
when they are put in out-of-the-way places,
where many are compelled to accommodate
them, the repotting ana consequent disturbance
of the roots get deferred until fibres are being
made, when much injury is done. All the
kinds that form young bulbs on the lower part
of the flower-stem that is under the soil, but
above the principal bulbs, should be gone over
now with a view to remove these, whether the
main roots require potting or not, as if the young
bulbs are allowed to remain, the pots in a single
season get so crowded that the soil is not capable
of sustaining the flowering bulbs in the way they
require. Strong loam, with a little admixture
of leaf-mould, rotten manure, and sand will
grow all the strong-growing kinds stouter, and
so enable them to produce a greater number
of flowers than peat, and also induce them to

increase faster. The weaker-rooting, less free-
growing kinds peat seems to suit best. At¬
tention as to re-potting soon after the tops have
decayed is particularly advisable in the case of
bulbs that nave only this summer made their
first growth after being imported. These,
especially L. auratum, frequently make growth
and sometimes even produce a flower or two, at
the same time forming little or no roots. Bulbs
of this description very seldom live beyond the
first season, and they are usually such as have
begun to push roots after arriving in this
country previous to being potted, and the young
tender fibres being injured before or at the
time of potting died right baok, when through
inability in the bulbs to push more roots there
was nothing to support them, the shoot growth
they made generally being the exhaustive and
lost efforts the plants were able to make. All
who purchase imported Lilies, and this species
in particular, should get some, and as soon as
the first importations arrive, pot them at once,
as these generally give the most satisfactory
results. Another matter we would impress
upon young cultivators is the absolute necessity
for using small pots; even in the case of established
plants, that is, those which have been grown in
the country some time, it frequently happens
that they are
over-potted.

Picoteks, Car¬
nations. — Now
all layers must be
removed and pot¬
ted either singly
in 3-inch pots or
a pair of plants
in pots of a larger
size. The com¬
post that seems to
answer best is
four parts good
loam, one part
leaf-mould, and
one port sharp
sand. When the
plants are potted,
place them at
once in a cold
frame, water with
a fine-rosed water¬
ing-pot, and then
place the lights
over them, keep¬
ing them rather
cIobo and shaded
for a week until
they have formed
fresh roots.

Dahlias.— The
blooms should still
be thinned out,
and the stems
should be tied to
the sticks as
they advance in
growth, as the

S lants are very
eavy and easily
injured by the
winds. Shade the flowers, especially the light-

coloured and pink ones, and see that the ground
is kept stirrea with the hoe.

Gladioli. —The ground between the rows

should be well stirred with a hoe, or, if it is
wet, the surface may be lightly forked over, in
order that there may be a good opportunity for
the bulbs to ripen. It is not likely that they
can ripen well when the soil is trodden hard
between the rows, the surface quite wet, and
in places covered with a growth of green Con¬
ferva).

Pinks. —If pipings of these have done well,
now is tho right time to prepare a bed in which
to plant them. When a Pink is lifted out of
the ground it does not seem os if the roots run
far from the main stem, but they do. They
run well into the ground, and it is lest to trench
the beds 2 feet deep, working into them some
good rotted stable manure, some of it at the
bottom of the trench, and some of it 6 inches
under the surface.

Tulips. —If the ground intended for these
has been cleared from other plants the beds
may be prepared at once. Growers who make
a speciality of them take infinite pains to pre¬
pare the beds wel!7 excavating tha soil to a con¬
siderable depth, and then filling the space with

338

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 20 , 1884 .

good loam mixed with rotten manure. Those
who cannot afford this would do well to trench
the ground to a considerable depth and manure
it well.

Roses forced last winter or spring, and which
have been stood out of doors during summer,
should be got under cover before long, especially
those intended to be forced early ; for if allowed
to remain until the roots, which now should be
growing fast, get chilled by the cold, they will
neither bloom so well nor so early. This refers
principally to the Tea varieties, which will bear
much moro fire heat than those who have not
had muoh experience in forcing them for winter
blooming suppose. If flowers of these are
wanted in November the plants should at
once be put where they will get a little warmth
at night, with top air but no side draughts, or
mildew is suro to make its appearance. Before
housing theso pot Roses it is a good plan to dip
them in or syringe them with Tobacco water in
which a little Gisliurst Compound has been
dissolved. This will kill any iusects and mildew
that may happen to bo present. The Tea
varieties should not be pruned at this season.
If Roman Hyacinths are wanted to flower early
they should have been potted soon enough to
enable them to be now making roots. More
ought to bo now put in to follow the earliest,
and if some of the large blooming kinds are
potted at the same time they will be in right
condition to succeed the Roman variety.

Fruit.

Vines. —^The late crop of Muscats will now be
getting ripe and capablo of bearing all the light
that can be given to them. Where a large
portion of the roots are in external borders the
rains havo started an abundance of fresh laterals,
and as these are now doing no good to the vines
or the Grapes, keep them closely stopped back
to the main foliage, and at the same time remove
all laterals down to the main bud from young
canes and leaders intended for next year’s fruit¬
ing. As the berries become nicely coloured, and
the foliage shows signs of ripening, gradually
reduce the temperature by ventilating more
freely and keeping up a steady warmth in the
pipes in preference to keeping the ventilation
closed, and trying to dispense with fire heat.
Lady Downes, Alicantes, and the usual run of
late Grapes, including Alnwick Seedling, will
require a constant circulation of warm air with
liberal ventilation to keep forward the ripening
of the fruit and wood before the long cold nights
check the flow of sap. If the internal borders
in which the surface roots are getting very airy,
require more water, and the berries show an
indisposition to colour up to the foot-stalks,
choose a fine morning for the operation, and
give them one or two light waterings with
generously diluted liquid at a temperature of
DO degs. The laterals in this house may be
kept well stopped back, but not so close as the
Muscats, as black Grapes always colour best
under a good canopy of foliage. Hamburghs
and other thin-skinned kinds intended for
autumn use will require careful management, as
too much fire heat will cause them to shrivel,
and the want of it will let in damp, and mould
will soon destroy the bunohes. Early vines
intended for foroing in November will be suffi¬
ciently matured to admit of pruning without
delay. Vigorous young vines that have been
well ripened ma}' be pruned in close, but old
ones whose satisfactory crops compensate for
appearance should be pruned to a plump bud.
After pruning remove loose bark with the hand,
but avoid the barbarous practice of scraping ;
wash well with strong soap water, and if insects
have been troublesome dress with the following
composition: One pound soft soap, and the
same quantity of sulphur boiled together for
ten minutes in one gallon of water ; while hot,
add one pint of strong Tobacco w r ater, an egg-
cupful of turpentine, and as muoh fine loam as
will give the consistency of paint. Thoroughly
cleanse the house, clear away and bum all loose
surfacing, and surface the borders with rich top-
dressings consisting of turf, bones, and rotten
manure.

Melons. —The season for frame Melons is
now all but over. In pita, however, the plants
for late fruiting should be vigorous, and if they
have been prevented from sotting their fruits
•till_ now, with great care, a night temperature
of 70 degs., tepidAvater,.and slRrlit qy ringings
on fine days only, \hef (gJL r fag J o^jjood late

crop. Mulch the beds with leaf-mould or rotten
manure to prevent them from drying too
quickly. Do not give muoh water to fruits that
are fully swollen, or that are ripening, as such
would bo apt to cause the fruit to crack.

Apples and Pears. —Most kinds of theso will
soon be ready to gather, and the moment they
seem ripe enough let it be done, as wo may soon
expect high winds, and ungathered ripe fruit
will either be destroyed or fit for use only as
windfalls. Pears, especially late kinds, if
gathered too soon are rendered worthless, as
they nevor ripen either to be fit for cooking or
dessert, but shrivel and become hard and dry.
A good criterion by which to decide whether a
Pear is fit to gather or not is to gently raise the
fruit, and if it parts readily from the tree it is
fit to gather. Another plan is to cut open a
fruit, and if the pips be brown, the crop may be
gathered. The samo rule applies to Apples,
though none but the very late kinds suffer from
early gathering to the same extent as Pears.
After housing the fruit the room will require to
be freely ventilated for a week or two until the
fruit is dry and inured to the temperature of
the house ; sudden fluctuations more than any¬
thing else induce damp and decay. Fruit show¬
ing the slightest signs of decay should be
instantly removed, for if left an atmosphere is
thereby engendered inimical to tho good keep¬
ing of the remainder. If space permit let the
fruit be placed on the shelves in single layers ;
any extra labour Involved in so placing it will
be more than repaid by the despatch with
which it can be examined In order to detect bad
fruit.

Peaches and Nectarines, and also late
Plums, should be gathered a day or two before
they aro fully ripe, and placed in the fruit-room.
Fruit so gathered is much more highly flavoured
than when used direct from the trees. As soon
as the latter are cleared of fruit wash well any
that are affected with red spider or mildew.
Plenty of clear water applied with force for the
former, and soap-suds for the latter, are two
simple and effectual remedies.

Raspberries may now have all their old
fruiting canes removed and the new ones
finally thinned out in order that those for next
season’s fruiting may derive the fullest benefit
from what sunshine we may yet be favoured
with. After thinning let the ground about
them be “ pointed ” (not dug deeply), then
mulch thickly with well-decayed stable manure.

Vegetables.

Of all months September is the best for mak¬
ing outside Mushroom beds or ridges. They
come into bearing at Christmas, and last nntil
April. We are now busily employed lifting
Carrots. When a second growth takes place
lift at once * many stack them in sand, but the
best way is to stack them by themselves
In small heaps outside, protecting them withBtraw
and earth. Continuo on all favourable occasions
to lift Potatoes { dry thorn thoroughly before
finally storing them, and pit them in ridges
outside. Cover them with straw, and then
earth them up 9 inches deep at base. Sow at
once French Beans in 3-inch pots. Osborn’s
forcing Bean is among the best. Old Mush¬
room manure being light and not over rich,
makes a good root-run for them. Potatoes
should be put into Blight heat to sprout.
Myatt’s is tho best for pots or boxes. Get
Cabbage and winter Lettuce at onoe into their
winter quarters. The general crop af Celery
for winter use should now be examined ; ail
suckers should be removed, as well as a few
of tho smallest outside lcavos, and then the foli¬
age should be tied together loosely ; after that a
thorough soaking with manure water should be
given, and then about 6 inches of soil from tho
ridges should be drawn to the plants, an opera¬
tion which not only keeps the leaves from being
broken down by wind, but tends to promote
growth, and where too mucli soil is not applied,
it has no bad effects in preventing rain from
reaching the roots.

Cucumbers in full bearing will now require
to have more artificial heat to keep them going
until those sown in August come into bearing.
If they show a tendency to produce thickened
fruit, remove them at once, unless they
are wanted for seed, and top-dress with rich
light loam, leaf-mould, or manure. Water well
with warm diluted liquid and crop lightly. For
autumn and winter work the pot system has

many advantages, not the least being the faci¬
lity with which fresh fermenting tan or Oak
leaves may be placed in immediate contact
with the pots. Of the two I give preference to
sound leaves, as plants of all kinds seem to
luxuriate in the moisture which arises from
them ; but some little care is needed in turning
and exposing them to the atmosphere for a few
hours after they are dislodged from the stove.

Where young plants have filled two-thirds of
the trellis, they may be stopped to induce a
good break of laterals from the base, and as
these will produce finer fruit with more certainty
and less trouble than old plants in pita and
frames, a few of them may be allowed to com¬
mence bearing at once. If brought on from the
seed-pot in the genial heat produced by fer¬
menting material, they are sure to be clean and
vigorous, and capable of bearing a few fruit
withoat being fed with strong stimulants.
Where Cucumbers Buccoed Melons, see that a
few good plants are always ready for filling up
the different seotions as they become vacant.
Sow seeds at short intervals, and throw plants
away in preference to planting them out after
they become pot-bound.

FRUIT.

GATHERING AND KEEPING FRUIT.
Respeotino the time of gathering ordinary
fruit (Apples, Pears, Medlars, &o.), as a general
rule, the fruit must be what is called tree-ripe
—i.c., the separation of the fruit-stalk from that
part where it is fastened must take place with¬
out any difficulty, and the stone-fruit as well
as the berry-fruit must be flesh-ripe— i,e. t fit
for consumption. Nuts and Chestnuts, how¬
ever, roust remain on the tree until they begin
to fall of themselves. The most of our summer
Pears and Applet—i.e., those which ripen till
the end of September, become much better
flavoured and keep longer if gathered from the
tree before they are floeh-ripe, and spread on a
layer of clean straw, hay, &c., in a shady and
dry place. If kept in damp cellars or caves,
they will always have a bad taste. The best
way is to gather them gradually, because they
never ripen at once, even on the same tree ; as,
for instance, those on the top or on the sunny
side are generally fit for gathering a week
sooner than those on the shady side, aud it.is
surprising how much the date of gathering in¬
fluences tho quality of some fruit.

The date of ripening, however, even of a
certain sort of fruit, is always very changeable,
according to the weather, the position of the
tree, and, if it is worked as a dwarf on Paradise
or Quince ; these always ripen their fruit much
earlier because their roots are nearer to the
surface of the ground. Plums, Cherries, and
most Grapes, however, are the better the longer
they hang on the tree, even after their normal
ripening, especially those Plums that are in¬
tended to be dried aro much better if they
remain on the tree as long as possible ; they are
afterwards much sweeter, more solid, and
already nearly half dried; while some other
Btone fruit, as, for instance, most Apricots,
become mealy if they hang too long on the tree.

Referring to the autumn and winter fruit,
Medlars, which are only eatable in a decaying
Btate, are gathered when tree-ripe and spread
over a layer of straw, where they may re¬
main till they are fit for use. Autumn and
winter Apples and Pears ought to bo I
gathered when tree-ripe. There are, how¬
ever, some late winter Pears, which, in un¬
favourable seasons or under other circum¬
stances, sometimes will not become tree-ripe
in the autumn. They may be left on the
tree as long as possible, but in every case they
must bo gathered before the leaves begin to
fall, as winter Pears gathered after this time
remain always like a Turnip. The cause is that
their flesh becomes dry after this time, and the
chemical process which causes the formation of
sugar and softens the cells, is then at an end.

I think that when the leaves begin to fall the
circulation in the sap of the tree ceases also, and
the fruit receives not as much sap as it evapo¬
rates. Perhaps, also, a part of its sap goes back (
into the wood after this time. But, however, I
so long as the circulation of the sap is in activity,
winter fruit may remain on tha tree with great
advantage e b long aa possible, even under the
influence of severe frosts. I saw this very well

I

Sept. 20 , 1884 ]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

339

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i

V*

t*

**

In the autumn of 1871, when I was residing in
South Germany. That autumn was very wet;
and no sort of fruit trees ripened its wood,
but in the beginning of October all were
still in full vegetation. That year (1871)
we had very few fruit, because late frosts
in the spring destroyed the blossoms, except
some late flowering or very hardy sorts,
os Boiken, Parker’s Pippin, Hawthornden,
Sykehouse Pippin, Luiken lleinette, Gros de
Cassel, Loskrieger, &c. As the trees, especially
those of the first-named sorts, were still in full
vegetation, we gathered in the middle of
October only half of them, and the others not
before the middle of November, when the leaves
began to fall, after several sharp frosts of
10 degs. to 12 degs. had passed over them.

Ab all autumn and winter fruit begin to grow
most when the nights become colder and longer,
and under the influence of the autumn fogs,
those Apples were nearly double as big as the
earlier gathered ones, and had not received any
check from the sharp frosts. On the contrary,
I found that they kept better and longer, and
became better flavoured. This is a certain proof
that, at least Apples, as long as they are not
yet ripe, may withstand even very severe frosts,
while I found that ripe ones are destroyed by
very slight frosts. Another important point in
the fruit crop is the manner of gathering the
fruit. All winter fruit and those that are
intended to keep longer than a fortnight,
must be gathered carefully by the hand, while
those that are to be used within three weeks after
gathering may be shaken off the tree. There are
some tender sorts of Pears which are very sensitive
to even the slightest pressure, as, for instance,
the old Figue d’Alencon becomes bitter if
bruised. Respecting the keeping of winter
fruit, there is a little difference between the
different sorts. Those sorts which are very
much inclined to shrink must be placed as soon
as possible after gathering in a cellar, or in a
cool and dark room, especially most of those
kinds which have a russet skin, for instance,
lleinette, Burchard, Goldmohr, Sykehouse
Russet, Parker’s Pippin, Reinette Grise, &c., as
they evaporate and shrink too much in a dry
air, while those with a smooth skin generally
keep much better, and must be kept as long as
possible in drier and cooler rooms. All these
fruits must be spread on hurdles or boards upon
a thin layer of quite dry and clean Moss, which
must be previously scalded, and it is very
advantageous to cover them afterwards with
blotting paper or old newspapers. This paper
preserves the fruit very much from the influence
of changeable temperature, in a damp room from
too great moisture, and in a dry room from too
much evaporation. Care is, however, to be
taken that no other things which may spoil the
air are kept in the fruit room, as, for instance,
vegetables, Potatoes, or fermenting matters,
&c., as they always spoil the flavour of the
fruit. The clearer and fresher the air, the
better will the fruit keep, and they must be
carefully looked over sometimes, and every
rotten one removed. If the air in the fruit
room is too damp, it is very good to put any
kind of salt on a board, which is placed a little
obliquely. The salt very soon attracts damp¬
ness from the air, and runs down in a vessel
which is put under the board. If dried after¬
wards, it may be used again. The cooler and
the fresher the air in the fruit room, the longer
the fruit keep, as the coolness renders the
chemical process of ripening difficult, while, on
the contrary, warmth favours it.

A very good way for keeping late winter
Pears and Apples is to keep them between dry
Pear or Chestnut leaves in the open air, so that
a layer of fruit is put on a layer of leaves; over
them again a layer of leaves, then Pears, and
so on, forming in this way a heap, which is
afterwards covered with some branches of the
Fir tree, to prevent the wind destroying the
heap. The old St. Germain Pear has kept in
this way very well—indeed, better than
in the best fruit room. Some people bury
Apples and Pears in the ground in the winter,
after an old-fashioned way of keeping, but I
should only recommend it for common and very
hard sorts. The marks for discerning when
fruit begin to ripen are, in Pears that they
become soft near the stalk, which may be ascer¬
tained by a slight pressure with the finger ; in
Apples, when they begift' tb smell Colons in
the ripening does uot^jy4r )ii jtt/sjrilts of

fruit; there are, for instance, many good kinds
of Pears which never change their colour even
when beginning to rot; others change colour
sometimes, and sometimes do not j as, for in¬
stance, the Beurr6 Napoleon very often remains
Grass-green. There are again some which
keep very well three or four weeks after ripen¬
ing, while others do not keep longer than three
or four days. There must always be great
attention paid to this, as many Pears begin
to rot in the fruit house, and are
soon quite decayed, although on the out¬
side they will look well. Grapes keep
very well four and even five months, if put
carefully between dry millet, in which way also
some Hungarian fruit dealers export their
Grapes with the best success. The Tyroleans,
who export quantities of their celebrated White
Ro8marin Apples to England, envelope them
twice carefully in silk paper, and pack them
afterwards between scraps of paper, which is
without doubt always the best material for the
purpose. G. W.

THE PLANTING SEASON.

Now is the time to plant fruit trees and bushes
of all sorts—work that should be done directly
the leaves have fallen, and before frost and snow
have set in to chill the soil. If planting cannot
be finished by the end of November, it is safest
to Wait until the sun begins to exert its influ¬
ence in February, for although large market
growers, who plant trees by the thousand, are
compelled to plant whenever the weather is
favourable, it is quite different with the owners
of ordinary-sized gardens, who can usually make
good all deficiencies at the best season for plant¬
ing—that is, if the necessary preparation has
been made ; but in the majority of cases I have
found preparations left until planting time has
arrived, and then it would be best to defer the
operation altogether for a year, putting in the
meantime some crop into the ground that can
be cleared off in good time for planting the fol¬
lowing season. One season’s thorough cultiva¬
tion makes the soil not only clean, but mellow
and friable—a condition in which it can be
worked in around the tender rootlets in the
best manner. Stiff soil that iB best adapted for
orchards is the very worst in which to plant
directly it is broken up ; therefore a season of
preparation will be amply repaid by the more
rapid growth which the trees will make after
they are planted.

Staking, &c. —Planting completed, the stems
should be securely staked and guarded from the
attacks of rabbits ; the roots, too, should be
covered with a mulching of partly decayed
manure. As to w’hat to plant, the wants of
various people and places prevent anything like
a general answer being given to this question.
If best quality in all cases ruled the selection,
there would be little difficulty in at once settling
the point. But in fruits, as in other things, we
seldom find all good qualities combined in one
individual. Where fruit is grown extensively
for market, sorts that yield the largest crops
are those which are most extensively planted ;
even in the most favoured districts in Kent it is
not Greengages nor Ribstons that make fruit
culture pay, but sorts that would not receive
attention as show fruits. Of late years the
rapidly increasing demand for fruit has led to not
only much more extensive planting, but
especially to growers taking more pains than
formerly to find out what sorts will suit, not
only the soil and situation, but the class of
demand for which the grower has to cater. I
am aware that the wants of private gardens are
quite different from those of the market grower,
but I firmly believe that many owners of
gardens have given up hardy fruit culture in
despair, simply from the meagre returns which
they get in the way of fruit in proportion to the
trees planted.

Sorts to grow.— In many cases this result
is clearly traceable to the selection of too good
sorts. We all like the best that we can grow,
but for ordinary use a full supply of even second
quality is better than little or no fruit; and
certainly the market grower who has divested
himself of all notions of what he ought to grow,
and relies on what he can grow, manages to get
the best returns in seasons both good and bad.
This, as we all know, has been an exceptional
year of scanty in the way of Damsons ; but those
who had crops of Farleigh Damsons or Shepherd

Bullaces have realised prices for them that will
put a value on such trees beyond what they ever
had before. With Apples, too, the case is
exactly the same. No one speaks well of the
Goff' Apple, or would think of comparing the
many varieties of Codlins, such as Keswick, or
Manks, or the Hawthornden, with sorts usually
at the head of the list in private gardens ; yet
when cooked one is as good as the other, and in
the case of dessert Apples there are now many
kinds of very great excellence that are ten times
more prolific than the Ribston. Tastes, too,
differ greatly as regards fruit as well as other
things; some like firm, sweet Apples, while
others prefer a soft, juicy kind. Not only is it
bad policy to take other people’s selections as a
guide as to what to plant, but no outsider
can say what will suit various soils and situa¬
tions. I find that in this locality the
varieties of fruits most in favour are quite
different from those most prized in the
stiff soils of Kent. Here, on the south
coast, the soil is light and stony, with perfect
drainage. Under such circumstances, the sur¬
face-rooting Paradise stock is a great advantage,
and, by mulching and attention to guarding
against the effects of drought, the trees may be
kept healthy for many years. I may remark
that near the coast the effects of violent galea
are the greatest of all drawbacks to fruit culture,
and for this reason tall standard trees are in but
little request. Dwarfs of some kind, that can
be easily sheltered, or that shelter one another,
are the sort mostly to be relied on. It is im¬
possible to got here the immense crops that are
sometimes grown in sheltered valleys ; but that
should not deter people from growing fruit.
Make not only the sorts, but the mode of train¬
ing, meet the circumstances of the case, and all
will go right. Here we are compelled to adopt
a restricted form of tree, not from choice, but
necessity. One important consideration is to
plant good healthy young trees ; for, if we would
keep a garden prolific, we must always have a
succession of young trees coming on to succeed
those that fail from old age. J. G. G.

11918.— Raspberry culture.— I will give
my plan of Raspberry culture, which has proved
very successful for a number of years. About
the last week in September I prune them,
leaving not less than four of the strongest canes
—sometimes six. Then stake and tie them,
giving them a liberal coat of half-rotted manure,
and fork it in between them, being careful not
to disturb the roots. By the above treatment I
always get heavy crops and very large fruit.
The soil is very stiff, with clay bottom.— East
Suffolk.

- It is not usual to cut away the old canes

as soon as the crop is gathered. If the stools
are 18 inches one way and 3 feet the other,
three canes would be enough. We plant the
stools 3 feet apart, in deeply-trenched rich soil,
and allow from four to six canes to grow from
each stool. We thin them out at any time ;
sometimes before the fruit is gathered, more
often after. It is a serious error to allow a
thicket of canes to grow round the base of tho
stools to injure one another.—J. D. E.

11901.— Packing Grapes.— It is almost
impossible to pack Grapes without injuring the
bloom a little, but by the following method
which has been employed here. In the case of
Grapes grown for market there will be no
sensible diminution in value or in beauty of
appearance. Boxes holding not more than 9 lb.
should be used, and a good plan, where tho
Grapes have to travel any distance, is to line
them with wadding, smooth side outwards.
Begin at one end, laying the bunch close to the
side, then another close to that, and so on,
until the box is quite filled, the principal point
being to fill all the available space so that there
is no room for the berries to move in transit.
Some wrap each bunch in paper, but this is apt
to do more harm than good ; there is no need to
put anything on the Grapes. Fix a label to the
cover with “Ripe fruit, with care, this side up, w
on it, and arrange, if possible, that someone
meets the train which conveys it to its destina¬
tion.—J. C. B.

Transplanting Raspberries. — Rasp¬
berries are sometimes allowed to grow so long in
one situation that the produce becomes worth¬
less ; this should no£ oc£ok^I orafM«r®sting is

840

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 20 , 1884 .

by no means a hazardous operation provided
good roots can be secured. Some think that it
takes years to get new plantations up to a fruit¬
bearing condition, but that is not so. Although
Raspberries make new canes every year, and in
some soils and positions will continue to produce
good crops for many years, there can bo no
question that the best results can only be ensured
by giving the plants a fresh root run by annually
transplanting a portion of the stock, so as to
always have some rows in the highest state of
roductiveness. Raspberries make excellent
ivisiooal lines in the kitchen garden, and rows
of them at a considerable distance apart yield
the best returns for the space occupied. October
is the best month in the year in which to plant.
Take out a good wide trench, as if for Celery,
and in the bottom of this placo 6 inches of
thoroughly rotten manure, forking it into the
bottom and thoroughly pulverising the soil;
then dig up the plants carefully with all the roots
that can be got attached to them. Place them
in the trench, and fill in with the top spit soil;
tread them firmly, and leave the tops entire
until their buds begin to swell in spring, when
the canes should be shortened to about 2 feet in
height. They will not need any supports the
first season, but during the following winter
stout posts, with two wires stretched between
them, should be put to each row, and to these
the canes should be firmly tied. In market
gardens Raspberries are not staked or tied, but
the canes are cut down shorter at the winter
pruning than in private places, and probably, on
a large scale, that is the best plan, but in gardens
where only a limited space can be devoted to
this fruit I would recommend the use of wire
trellises about 4 feet high. As regards pruning
there is nothing gained by leaving the canes
more than from 4 feet to 5 feet high, for even
strong growing kinds, like Prince of Wales, if
left much longer and arched over one another,
only fruit at the top ; the lower buds remain
dormant, whereas if cut down lower they fruit
to the ground. There are few fruits so much
benefited by rich top-dressings of manure as
Raspberries, and in winter, after the canes are
thinned and tied, apply a liberal dressing on
both sides of the row. Do not crop with vege¬
tables too closely to the roots, for the fruit will
be just in proportion to the amount of food the
roots can lay hold of. If a good drenching of
liquid manure can be given after the fruit is set,
it will materially improve its size.—G.

Autumn Strawberries.— These are now
one of the dessert fruits looked for from all good
gardens. After trying many sorts, I do not find
any so prolific as Vicomtcsse H<*ricart de Thury.
This sort produces a quantity of crowns, and
keeps on flowering and fruiting, irrespective of
the season. The best way for getting a crop of
Strawberries at this time of the year is to set
early forced plants of the kind just named in a
partially shaded position during the heat of
summer, and keep them well attended to in the
way of water; all blooms produced should bo
icked off as soon as observed until the end of
uly, when the plants should be cleaned, top-
dressed with rich soil, and set in cold frames or
pits, keeping them elevated on slates close to
the glass, with a free circulation of air. Fruit
from plants thus treated, and assisted at swel¬
ling time with liquid manure, will form a very
acceptable addition to the dessert in autumn.—
J. G. G.

Gutting off Strawberry leaves is a
decided mistake, although still to some extent
practised. The best plan is to keep the plants
clear of runners, except such as are needed for
stock, and the soil clean by frequent surface
stirrings, but deep digging ruins Strawberries ;
in fact, the soil can hardly bo too firm for them.
Strawberries are largely grown on light stony
land in this locality, but beyond keeping it
clean, or lightly forking in the top-dressing of
manure in spring that has been spread amongst
the rows in winter, nothing else is done. Ground
for Strawberries should, nowever, be trenched
deeply before it is planted,—J. G. G.

American blight on Apple trees is best
dealt with in winter when the trees are clear of
foliage, but it may be considerably reduced by
cold water or soap-suds vigorously applied by
incans of a garden engine ; in fact, there are
few insect pests that can withstand such an
application long. IfthiS roots of fcuiS; tepes had
same lent moisture a %l * D tjjojrigs appli¬

cation of water to keep the leaves and branches
clean they would have fewer ailments. It is at
this season when fruit trees are most in need of
root moisture to swell up their buds for next
year’s crop, and applymg water to cleanse
the branches also helps to moisten the soil about
the roots.—J. G. G.

VEGETABLES.

New and old Tomatoes. —We are getting
overdone with varieties of Tomatoes that are
not only no improvement on old varieties, but
positively retrogressive, both as regards crop¬
ping and other good properties for which
Tomatoes are grown. None exhibit any real
advance on the old Smooth Red grown thirty
years ago. I well remember the fine crops of
this which we used to ripen on south walls in
an old-fashioned garden in Middlesex, but few
at that time would eat them. Now all classes
grow and eat Tomatoes in an endless variety of
ways. In this locality they form a daily article
of diet, both as a vegetable and a salad. Even
artisans grow them on the low walls that divide
their little plots, and it is interesting to hear
them sum up the merits of new versus old kinds.
One remarked the other day that he had in¬
vested in a packet of President Garfield, and
found that the produce went to the top of the
wall before it showed a bloom ; while his old
Smooth Red, side by side, cropped to the ground.
Raisers of new Tomatoes seem to only keep in
view two extremes—one, great coarse fruit,
with deep furrows; the other, the smallest
berry that can pass muster for a Tomato. If
we must have new varieties every year let us
at least encourage the useful before the orna
mental in the case of a plant which we grow
mainly for culinary purposes. Hathaway’s
Excelsior is one of the good old sterling sorts,
or rather selections from the large red and the
smooth, and the evener it is in outline the
better. There is really no gain in having a sort
that produces fruit weighing from 1 lb. to 2 lb.
each, for of such fruit only a limited number can
be produced. Varieties that yield fruits weigh¬
ing from 4 oz. to 6 oz. each are better. Tomato
culture is so simple that one can searcely fail.
The plants should be got up early in the season ;
they should be gradually hardened off, and
should show fruit before they are turned out of
the pots in May in order that they may get the
longest season of growth possible. The ground
in which they are planted should be firm, so as
to check exuberant leaf growth. When the
fruit is set and swelling, liquid manure is neces¬
sary, i.c. t if the weather is hot and dry, and
that is what suits Tomatoes. Excessive moisture
ruins them. Their growths should be kept
thin and evenly trained on the walls, and heavy
rains should be warded off by means of glass
copings. In favourable seasons in the southern
counties Tomatoes ripen well in the open
ground, but they do best on a wall, or even
under a glass covering, and they in all cases woll
repay that attention.—J., Hants.

Kitchen gardening made easy.— My
starting point is with that king of vegetables,
the Potato, and here I must halt for a moment
to say we gardeners, as a rule, grow about ten
times too many varieties. Taking Myatt’s
Prolific, all in all, I pronounce it to be the
Prince of Potatoes, and for garden culture,
with the exception of an early south border of
old Ashtops, as they come a few days earlier, I
will grow nothing else for the future. They
come off early, and, if taken up in time, are free
from disease, and a good crop of Potatoes, with¬
out disease, is worth a king’s ransom. The land
for the first crop in this case is dug and slightly
manured, and laid up roughly for the winter
frosts to pulverise. The sets are planted out
before the first week in April by drawing shallow
drills, from 2 in. to 3 in. deep. All my seed is
laid thinly on shelves, on an airy room, and by
April will be sprouted and bristling with good
strong shoots, green and hardy. Putting them
into the warm soil, they come up at once and
receive no check, as we earth them up twice
before the middle of May in order to guard
against frosts. When the crop is lifted, we
cultivate the land, but not deeply, and plant,
in this case with a dibber, Cole worts, Winter
Lettuces—that is, Lettuce for using all winter ;

| and Endive—which is now, December 15, all

protected with Bracken. All being off tHe
the ground by February, the land is well dusted,
with lime and malt dust in equal quantities, a.nd
again cultivated, keeping this dressing near the
surface. In the first week in April we plant
Myatt’s Prolific, thus growing two crops of
Potatoes and one of Lettuces without the use of
the spade or steel digging fork—and here, I may
add, that I have, for days, ay, for years, worked
these forks, and, for digging, where the land is
not manured, or, in the case of stony or flinty
land, they are useful garden implements, but for
easy work give me the cultivator.—R. G.

Salsify. —For the first time I have this year
grown Salsify, and to-night had some cooked,
and I am now thoroughly astonished that this
vegetable should be so neglected. I had mine
prepared as follows: Cut a small quantity of
falsify into short lengths, and boil in salted
water until quite tender ; drain and mash them
with some butter, salt, and pepper, and a little
anchovy sauce. Place a layer of bread-crumbs
in some scollop shells, and then a layer of Salsify,
and so on, till the shells are full, putting bread¬
crumbs on the top. Bake in the oven, and brown
the top with a salamander. Serve very hot.—
W. Norwood, Surrey.

11913.—Potatoes arrowing a second time.—This
is caused by a period of hot, dry weather followed by rains.
The drought forces them into a state of premature rest,
from which the moisture again starts them. It is only in
dry summers that Potatoes "grow out,” os it is termed.—

J. c. B.

-- Potatoes growing a second time is common with

late kinds. After dry, hot weather has given them a check
and stopped growth, rains follow and cause them to start
a second time into growth, before the first growth is com¬
pleted. All such that are now in the ground will be bust
to remain there until growth is over, which most likely
will not be until frost occurs.— East Suffolk.

-The reason of this is owing to some check they have

received in their growth. Hot, dry weather would stop
their growth, and this being succeeded by rain causes the
uimpencti tubers to start again. It cannot bo prevented.

11914.—Pumpkins turning yellow.— Stop the
growths two joints beyond the fruit, and dust the pollen
of the male blossoms on the stigmatic portion of the female
flowers. This will prevent the fruit turning yellow before
it has grown to its natural size.—J. D. E.

I Winter dressing flower beds.— Falling
leaves remind us that the time will soon arrive
for making a clearance of summer flowers and
putting beds and borders in order for the
winter. But ere it is too late allow me to
protest against the practice of denuding hardy
plants (or rather such as would prove hardy if
left alone) of their old foliage under the plea
of trimness. It is a pitiful sight to see Tritomas,
Ferns, Phloxes, ana numerous other beautiful
plants cropped off as cloBely as a freshly shorn
sheep, and that at a time when they ought to
be husbanding up strength to withstand the
winter. I am fully aware of the difficulties
that lie in the way of making a distinction
between what is to be removed and what is to
be retained. It is a too common practice at
this season to employ unskilled workmen to
give the garden a general clear up, the orders
being to make all neat and trim for the winter.
These instructions they implicitly carry out; of
this I am convinced from daily experience.
Already I see plenty of gardens divested of all
flower-stems and stalks, and such leaves as have

? ut on the faintest tint of autumn colouring.

'he great spreading leaves of Preonies, the
Btalks of Delphiniums, or the fiag-like leaves of
Alstrcemerias all go together to the rubbish
heap, whether the proper time has arrived for
cutting or not. Is, therefore, the wild luxuri¬
ance of plants left to Nature’s keeping to be
wondered at? Plants that almost refuse to

grow under the most assiduous care often grow
freely if undisturbed. It is the misdirected zeal
that does the mischief—the study of tidiness
in preference to the wants of the flowers culti¬
vated. Were some bright exceptions not to be
found where the wants of hardy plants are well
understood, and at the same time the neatness
and order that should mark the difference
between a garden and a wilderness clearly
defined, one would despair of the good resulting
from instructions so often given in Gar¬
dening to let Nature have her way. Old
foliage is Nature’s own protector for the roots
and crowns of plants in winter, and, therefore,
should bo left until young growth pushes up
in spring. It should be added to rather than
diminished, and"male to look neat and trim by
means of a covering of evergreen branches,—J,

Sept. 20 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

841

TREES AND SHRUBS,

DOUBLE WHITE BRAMBLE.

(RUBUS FRDTICOSUS POMPONIU3.)

Of the multitude of varieties that exist of the
common Blackberry there are three only that
can be recommended as ornamental garden
plants, aud these, owing to their Bpreading and
picturesque growth, are particularly suitable
for planting as isolated specimens on lawns.
They consist of the double pink (roseus fl.-pi.), a
kind which produces a profusion of small rosette¬
like flowers of a beautiful pink colour; the
Parsley-leaved, or laciniatus, a well-known
variety with elegantly cut foliage; and the
double white, of which an illustration is here¬
with given. This variety is particularly beau¬
tiful, its flowers reminding one more of minia¬
ture clusters of Aim6e Vibert Rose than of
those of a Bram¬
ble. Its blossoms,
being semi-double
and pure white,
contrast charm¬
ingly with the
foliage, which is of
a paler hue than
thatofothcrBram-
bles. Like others
of its race it thrives
anywhere, and of¬
ten in places where
no other ornamen¬
tal plants would
grow. Trained
against a wall it is
a fine object, and
its vigorous growth
rapidly covers a
large space. It is
useful, too, for
screens, but its
proper position is,
as has been said, on
a lawn where it
has free scope in
which to develop
itself in all direc¬
tions. In such a
position it Boon
makes a hugesym-
metrically - shaped
bush, which from
early summer till
late in autumn
is covered with
bloom. It thrives
in any soil, but
where it has its
choice seems to
prefer alight warm
one, judging by
the fine specimens
of it that have been
brought to us from
time to time by
Mr. Stevens from
Byfleet. It has
been long culti¬
vated in gardens,
and appears to
have come origin¬
ally from Italy.

There are other

semi-double white European Brambles, but this
is the best. It is also known in somo gardens
os It. fruticosus albus plenus.

evergreen hedge but does not do so well for a
boundary fence, offering but feeble resistance to
would-be intruders.—J. C. B.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 312 .)

The Late Peach House.

I shall have a chapter by-and-by on the
Orchard house, therefore I shall leave the con¬
sideration of the culture of Peaches in pots till
then. The late Peach house may have various
definitions, and may include any kind of glass
structure in which Peaches oan be grown, and
it may be heated or unheated, though it is
always advisable to have a couple of 4-inch
pipes run threugh the house, even if we do not
require to use them, as they give a sense of
security which is worth a little cost, and the

11920.—Formation of hedges.— There
is nothing bo suitable in a general way for
forming hedges as common Quick. The most
important point is to thoroughly stir the soil to
a depth of 2 feet, and add a goodly amount of
manure. Then in the course of from three to
four years you get a good impenetrable fence
4 feet high. Another important matter is
keeping the ground clear round the plants, and
if they are mulched the first two years they
will be the better for it. For a boundary hedge
there is nothing so good as Holly, and if the
ground is well prepared for it it will soon
ittain a good size. Being so hardy it will
> hrive in the most open situation, is not par¬
ti -ular as to soil, but prefers that of rather
lig t, wiirmjp^iUie^ < .Jl£j%I^^'imtfMq^Jbod

Flowering spray of double white Bramble.

cost of the pipes is not a ruinous affair. For a
small house 3-inch pipes would do. But a late
house, which is intended to be forced by the
sun only, should be as roomy as possible, and
large houses can be built cheaper in proportion
than small ones. Ingenious minds in the
arrangement of the interior of houses for late
Peaches have often got off the beaten track in
the construction and arrangement of the trellises.
With the view of increasing the training surface,
among other plans which I have seen tried (this
was described some time ago in a contemporary
sb a novelty), is the arrangement of transverse
vertical trelliases across the house under each
rafter. It is not new. Very few things are,
for men who have gone before have not only
written and spoken all the good things we would
like to say, but they have left us at least
the germs of all the new inventions. One ad¬
vantage in the system is, it leaves the back
wall free and fully exposed to the light,
and t certainly does increase the training

space, and gives scope for the planting of more
trees, and thus securing a greater variety, and
lengthening out the Beason. And even in un¬
forced houses this is important, for when trees
are encouraged to grow to a large size the fruit
ripens too much together to be made the most
of. On this system a house 40 feet long and 18
or 20 feet wide will furnish a training surface
for a dozen trees, viz., nine on tho transverse
trellises, and three on the back wall, and these
twelve trees, if judiciously selected, should in a
cool house give a long succession. This is the
only advantage claimed for it, and this I think
it possesses. For the production of really hand¬
some well-flavoured fruit there is, of course, no
better way than to train these trees within 18
inches or so of the glass. The system of trans¬
verse trellises is not so well adapted for span-
roofed houses, as there is no back wall to utilise.
Still, even here the plan may be made to answer,
but the house should not be less than 25 feet
wide. A border 3
feet wide should
run round the house
next the wall. Then
should come a 3-
foot path, and this
would leave a cen¬
tral border of 13
feet, consequently
the transverse trel-
lisses would be that
width, which would
furnish training
space for one tree
on each. The out¬
side border would
be furnished with
trees, which would
be trained to a
vertical trellis, run¬
ning all round tho
house near the
path. Such a house
would have a pretty
and interesting ap¬
pearance at all
seasons, and both
trees and fruit
would be always
under the eye, and
be easily managed.

Value of Maiden
Treks.

If young trees
have to be pur¬
chased I much pre¬
fer maidens, for
indoors and out¬
side. Trees which
have been cut back
time after time are
very susceptible to
gum and canker,
and never, or at
least rarely, ac¬
quire the vigour
and healthy fresh¬
ness of condition
which the un¬
pruned trees do.
Of course I don’t
object to reasonable
and judicious prun¬
ing, but I contend
that tho way young trees are sometimes muti¬
lated in their youth is very far from being
reasonable or judicious. Having gone some¬
what fully into the construction of the border
in treating of the early Peach house, I need not
further refer to it here than to lay some stress
upon the necessity of lime to all stone fruits.
A mellow, loamy soil from the surface
of a limestone-bearing strata is the best soil, and
if this cannot be had Borne lime should be added
to the soil, either in the construction of the
border or from time to time as it is needed.

Summer Management.

The trees in the late house may be permitted
to come on naturally with only just fire heat
enough to protect the blossoms on frosty nights.
A good deal may be done by the proper venti¬
lation of the house to regulate the tempera¬
ture. Some people think that a late house wants
no attention beyond a supply of >|refb air, but
it is a mistake. Tho ventilation from the time

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 20 , 1884 .

the blossom opens till the fruit begins to colour even the novice, if he is intelligent, when to
should be as carefully attended to as if gather the fruits to have them in the best
the house was forced. And it is especially possible condition. When all are gathered, the
useful to bear in mind that cold currents trees, if there are signs of red spider, should
of air may be a great source of injury have a good wash with the garden engine,
to the young growths in spring. Again, applied forcibly ; and afterwards all the air
a very great deal of help may be got from the possible should be given night and day, and
sun, if we lay ourselves out to catch and confine water should be given to the borders
his beams or rays by early closing in the after- if they need it. It may also be stated as
noon in the hottest weather in summer. During a general fact that absolute dryness for any
the growing season the house may be closed length of time is good for nothing which
and syringed at four o’clock in the afternoon, has to sustain life. When the leaves
Earlier in the season it may be closed propro- are all down the trees may be unloosed from the
tionately earlier ; but with this system of early trellis to allow the air to play freely among the
closing should be linked early ventilation in the branches, and the motion of the young wood,
morning, and, if possible, without lowering the which exposure will give, has a beneficial
temperature too much, a little night ventilation tendency. It is not a natural state of things to
also from an opening or two at the ground line, brace up the branches of a tree, from which so
These openings for night ventilation may l>e much is expected, for a longer period than is
covered with perforated zinc or closely woven necessary. And from the time the fruit is
netting, and thus the fresh air will be filtered gathered, or at least from the time the leaves
througn, and no injurious draught created. The hill till January, the branches may have I

top-dressing of the borders, the application of freedom.

artificial stimulants and liquid manure, have

been referred to elsewhere, and are just as Aprun

Pruning and Training.

A pruning knife in the hands of a careless or in-

important in the late house as the early one. experienced man may soon do a good deal of harm.
The blossoms also will require a little attention The principal pruning season is in the spring—
when setting, for nothing should be left then the foundation for the next year is laid ; and
altogether to chance that we can influence or in autumn the chief work is to clear the way
control. For the most part when the pollen is to remove those branches no longer required,
dry, shaking the trellis will scatter it, and the and to lay In those which have been in prepara-
Peach, as a rule, flowers so abundantly, tion during summer. The winter pruning may
if a tenth part of the blossoms set be regarded more as a selecting or regulating
there will be more than enough fruit, period, and such work always requires judgment
Still, it is true wisdom to do all we can to in- and care. When the pruning is completed no
Bure a good set, as it enables the cultivator to two branches should be nearer each other than
get his crop all on the upper side of the trellis, A inches, and the pruning should be so managed
and have brighter coloured, and, as a rule, that no part of the tree should be without
better fruit. The disbudding, the training of bearing wood; this, in fact, is the great aim
the young wood, the removal of laterals, and *nd business of the pruner. Occasionally a
the thinning of the fruit is routine work, the branch dies at the bottom, and the next branch
details of which have already been noticed, and above must be dropped down to take its place,
is much the same in all Peach culture under and the others opened out to let up a young
glass. I need on^ say further respecting it shoot to fill up the trellis. With Peaches under
that delay in the carrying out of any necessary gla® 8 > the wood, unless the borders contain too
operation may have injurious consequences, and niuch manure, seldom fails to ripen ; and, there¬
in glasshouses the best work only should be fore, 80 long ** there is trellis room unoccupied,
insisted on. there need not be much shortening. Long

The Life History of the Peach, shoots, with weak points, will require to be

regarded simply as a fruit, may be divided into shortened back, and should in all cases be cut,
periods. First, there is the embryo state in to a wood bud, which can be easily distin-
the interior of the blossom waiting for the guiehed from a blossom $ the latter being
development of the various organs which have round and plump, the former more elongated,
been provided by Nature for its fertilisation, and sharp at the point. Very often the Peach
and which are so timed as to reach the proper bas its buds in triplets—a wood bud between
state to perform the various duties assigned to two flower buds-—and it is always safe to shorten
each at the right time. Trees in good health, back to such buds as these. A leader to every
with well developed and well matured parts, bearing branch is a necessity, for if there

seldom fail to set their fruit more thickly than are n ° leaves to draw up the sap, and to keep
is required. When Peaches fail to set or drop op a constant circulation, the branch dies, and
during their growth there is always a canse— the fruit withers and drops. For training trees
either the trees are out of health or condition, or °o a wire trellis there is nothing better than
else the cultural details have been wrong. The roffia. It is soft to the trees, and yet strong
second period of life of the Peach is a time of enough to last one season, and it works easily,
rapid growth, and extends until the formation just as well dry as wet. Young hands are very
of the stone begins. Regularity and steadiness apt to tie the branches too tight. This should
should accompany this stage. The external air always be guarded against, for it has an injurious
is often cold, and the ventilation, to avoid effect upon the trees,
the admission of cold currents, will need care ; Varieties for Late Houses.

chilled water only should bo used for all pur- Bearing in mind the necessity there is for
poses, and when the trees are syringed it should variety, and that it should be of a successional
be done early enough, if done in the afternoon, character, I give below the names of a dozen
for the leaves to get quite dry before night, varieties which are excellent. Of late years
The stoning period is an important one, and for much improvement has taken place in the sorts
two or three weeks seems to absorb the force of °f late Peaches, and thoso who still pin their
the tree, for though the work must bo going on faith upon such kinds as the Walburton
there is no visible progress. It seems as if Admirable are out of the running. Some of the
Nature was resting, gathering up its forces for best late, as well as early, Peaches have an
the final rush to the goal (though of course we American origin—Albatross, Barrington, Con-
know the work is incessant), and the period, as dor, Diamond, Golden Eagle, Goshawk, Late
regards the crop, is a critical one. If there is Admirable, Lord Palmerston, Osprey, NobleBse,
any defect in the supply of nourishment to the Prince of Wales, Sea Eagle, Stirling Castle, and
tree, if there are any dry spots in the border, Stump the World. Where there is only one
the effect will be seen now in cast-off fruit, early house for Peaches, and one late house with
But when the Btoning period is past the crop nothing intermediary in character, it will be
is safe, and it will for a time bear a little better not to begin forotng too early—the
more pressure if speed is urgent, until the fourth beginning of the new year will be time enough ;
or ripening period is entered, which admits of no and then by the introduction of an early variety
forcing or hurrying. To obtain fine flavour in or two into the later house, and a late bearing
Peaches, during the last fortnight there should tree or two into the early house, the two houses
be ventilation night and day, accompanied by may join hands together. E. Hobday.

dryness in the atmosphere, and no water --——

should be applied to the borders. It is Fuchsia procumbenB in fruit. —
b° s t to anticipate the perfect ripening of Although leafless, this Fuchsia is far from
the fruits by a day or two, as in the even tern- uninteresting just now in several gardens, as
perature of the fruit room, when set-out thinly, the comparatively large fruits are freely pro-
the fruits ripen mo/e regularly and the* flavour duced and continue on the plants the whole of
como* np better. Sjbi||ptiefc'e vMJjfeon teach the winter.

INDOOR PLANTS.

WINTERING FLOWER GARDEN PLANTS.
It is a too common practice—though often an
unavoidable one—to defer the propagation of
what are termed bedding plants until late in
September, and sometimes October, when the
nights have become cold and growth to a great
extent arrested. Cuttings then root slowly and
imperfectly, and are in copsequence wintered
with difficulty, especially where house room is
limited. Cuttings often cannot be taken from
flower-beds in August without impairing their
beauty, but there are few places in which spare
borders and other vacant spaces might not be
advantageously planted for the express purpose
of providing young stock, and if these were
utilised in that way the difficulty of obtaining
cuttings early would be at once overcome.
Failures that sometimes occur in wintering bed¬
ding plants do not, however, always arise from
late propagation; on the contrary, cuttings
struck early sometimes winter badly. Much
depends upon the condition in which the cut¬
tings are when struck. On the approach of frost
they are often taken off and hurriedly packed
together in large, deep, badly-drained boxes or
pots, without any regard being paid to the
quality of the soil in which they are put, the
chief points apparently being to get them in¬
serted as quickly as possible, to saturate them
with water, and afterwards to huddle them to¬
gether into some spare corner of a Vinery or
Peach-house some 20ft. away from the glass, a
position in which they remain until they are
required to be potted in the Bpring. Under
B«ch circumstance need it be wondered at that
many are found wanting ?

In striking bedding plants with a view to
wintering them safely the aim should be to see
that they have good drainage, good soil, and
that they are properly inserted, whether grown
in pans, boxes, or pots. The latter are best •
they should be half-filled with drainage, which
should be covered over with moss or rough leaf-
mould, and the remainder should be filled up
with good sandy loam. After the cuttings are
inserted, the pots may be placed either out of
doors or in a cool, airy frame close to the glass,
where they can be protected from heavy rains,
but where they can still enjoy a free circulation
of air. As soon as cold, weather sets in, the
young plants should be removed into the
lightest, driest, and most airy place available,
where they can be subjected to just enough heat
to keep them dry and exclude frost. Very
little water will be necessary during winter,
but whenever it is applied it should be done on
the mornings of fine days, so that air can be
afterwards freely admitted to dry the atmo¬
sphere and prevent the foliage from damping.

Water, when supplied, should also be given
in sufficient quantity to thoroughly soak the
soil, and thus render frequent applications of it
unnecessary. Back shelves in Vineries and
Peach-houses, near the glass, are excellent
places on which to winter bedding plants, such
positions being light, airy, and dry. The great
difficulty experienced in keeping Verbenas freo
from mildew and other diseases that attack them
in winter arises from an insufficiency of air and
light. The best Verbenas perhaps ever seen were
raised from cuttings inserted in pots during the
month of August under hand-lights, and sub¬
jected to the full influence of sun and air on every
possible opportunity. With the exception of a mat
thrown over them during severe frost, they were
otherwise unprotected ; in spring they were cut
back and placed in heat, and afterwards they
became strong and healthy plants, which fur¬
nished a good supply of cuttings. Petunias,
Lobelias, Tropseolums, and, in fact, all bedding
plants, are beBt treated in as hardy a manner
as is consistent with safety. If cuttings be kept
dry and airy there is not much danger of their
being injured by cold, unless they happen to bo
subjected to actual frost. Damp, as indeed
most people know to their cost, is the great
enemy of all kinds of bedding plants during
winter, and this can only be obviated by means Jj
of free ventilation, so as to maintain a dry ^
atmosphere. Echevcrias, Sedums, and other 1
succulent plants, althongh they will stand 1
several degrees of frost with impunity, cannot I
endure damp, which in winter proves fatal to
many ot them. As regards the wintering of
Altemar th^rai, McBcmbryanthemums, Coleuses,

Sept. 20, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

and similar plants, although they will not sub¬
mit to quite such hardy treatment as Pelar¬
goniums and Verbenas, yet far better results
might often be realised than are sometimes
obtained if they were treated in a hardier
manner than they generally are. They are not
uufrequently wintered in Pine stoves, Cucum¬
ber houses, aqd other hot places in which
neither air nor sun can reach them effectually,
and in spring the result is sickly plants, instead
of vigorous ones that will produce strong and
healthy cuttings. Few plants can be propa¬
gated more readily than Alternantheras, yet
how often do we hear of people being troubled
to get enough of them by bedding-out time I
The secret of success lies in having the plants,
whether struck from cuttings or lifted from
the open ground, well established before cold
weather has set in, so as to enable them to
withstand a low temperature. Plants kept in
a dry, airy temperature of 45° or 60 3 through
November and December, and Introduced to
the propagating pit in January or February,
will produce abundance of young, healthy cut¬
tings, that will strike readily in a few days. In
small gardens in which little glass is at com¬
mand, other modes of wintering bedding plants
have to be resorted to, such os placing them in
Turf-pits, cellars, sheds, and even in hay¬
lofts, and under such conditions they sometimes
winter fairly well. In such cases, however, it is
essential that the plants be well established
previous to their being stored away, inasmuch
as plants with green, sappy wood, and newly*
made tender roots, will generally suffer from
want of light and air, to which they can rarely
have accessin such placesasthose justmentioned.
Established, strong-rooted plants, with firm
wood, will, however, withstand a large amount
of rough treatment, especially Pelargoniums,
Fuchsias, and succulent plants ; the chief point
on which success depends being the keeping of
the foliage and roots in as dry a state as possible,
without allowing them to suffer seriously there¬
by. In turf-pits, lofts, or sheds, sufficient air
can be admitted to keep the plants in a healthy
condition by opening the doors or windows, but
when stored in cellars the case is different, little
air and light being admissible ; indeed, such
nlaces are unfit for storing plants, and where no
better means of wintering them exist, it is
advisable to dispense with plants that need
indoor protection, and substitute such as are of
a more hardy character. Where turf-pits are
employed the walls should be built sufficiently
thick to exclude frost, and if the inside can be
lined with dry straw or bracken a great advan¬
tage will be gained. Such pits should occupy a
light sunny position, in order that they may
receive every ray of sunshine that occurs during
the winter, and if they be built with hollow
bottoms the roots of the plants may be kept in
a dry and healthy condition. If, for example,
we build a turf-pit 30ft. long and Oft. wide, the
walls all round may be 2ft. thick ; this will leave
a trench along the centre 2ft. wide, and into this
may be put a few rough faggots ; or wooden
hurdles, supported by the walls, may be placed
lft. from the ground, so as to leave the bottom
hollow. Over these should be a layer of thin
turf with the Grassy side downwards, and then
a few inches of sandy loam, into which the
cuttings may be inserted as early in the autumn
as possible, in order to allow them to get estab¬
lished and their wood ripened before severe
weather has set in. If they be struck in pots—
which is, as has been already stated, the best
way—ashes may be put over the layer of turf
in place of loam, and the pots may be plunged
into them up to their brims. The great advan¬
tage of growing young bedding plants in pots is
that they can be readily cleared of decayed
leaves or weeds. The walls of turf pits should
be 12in. or 15in. higher than the level of the
bed on which tho plants are placed, and instead
of the turves being laid with their Grassy sides
downwards, as recommended for the beds, a
course tho very reverse of this should be followed,
inasmuch as the Grass will grow and fillup any
little crevices that may exist in the walls. Straw
hurdles, mats, and similar protecting materials
are generally used for top coverings, but if thin
wooden shutters could be applied for that pur¬
pose in a slanting position, so as to throw off
rain, a great advantage would be gained, and
these shutters, moreover, would exclude any
ordinary frost; but whefi 'the latter is [severe
un extra covering of s^raw ^rj ttt ilJop(f be

readily applied. Where spare sashes can be
made available they are, of course, the best, but
in any case the plants should be exposed to as
much light and air as possible. Water should
be withheld from the roots until the plants show
evident signs of suffering from drought. Cuttings
of Calceolarias should not be put in until Octo¬
ber, as if inserted too soon they often overgrow
themselves before winter arrives, and are fre¬
quently injured in consequence. It will always
be found a good plan to put in a batch of cuttings
under a wall or fence, in addition to those placed
in pits, os in mild winters such cuttings some¬
times make the best plants. S.

Ornamental Grasses in pots.— Some of
the ornamental Grasses make very handsome
subjects for conservatory decoration during sum*
mer, when allowed to form clumps or masses in
5-inch or 6-inch pots, the light and elegant habit
of many of them serving to tone down any super¬
abundance of colour which frequently prevails
at that season. Not only for this pnrpose are
they well suited, but in most arrangements of
cut flowers they may be advantageously em¬
ployed ; for this latter purpose, however, it is
only necessary with the majority of the kinds
to sow them in the open ground early in spring,
when they give no further trouble, and may be
gathered when required. At those grown in
pots are protected from the weather, they are
often better adapted for storing for winter use
J than outside oneB ; indeed, after they have
served their turn in the conservatory, all that
is necessary is to cut the 6tems off just above
the soil, and hang the Grasses up, head down¬
wards, to dry, when they will keep for an
almost indefinite period. At first, in growing
these different Grasses, I tried the plan of sowing
them, and then pricking off the young Beedlings
thickly in pots ; but I found better results from
sowing them directly in the pots in which they
are to grow. The kinds which I have princi¬
pally employed are Agrostis nebulosa and
pulchella, Briza major and minima (the large
and small Totter Grass), Bromus brizaeformis,
Hordeum jubatum, the long Barley-like awns of
which are of a purplish tint when young, and
then very pretty, but when mature they soon
fall to pieces. Lagurus ovatus, with its whitish
cottony-like heads, also does well in pots. These
Grasses prefer a good holding soil, otherwise
the foliage soon turns yellow and growth is
arrested. A suitable compost is about three parts
loam to one of decayed manure, with, if the
loam be very heavy, a slight admixture of sand.
The pots must be filled with this to about half
an inch from the top in the case of minute seeds,
a little more space being left for larger ones.
Sow the seeds'thinly, but evenly, over the sur¬
face, and cover with light soil ; and place them
in a cold frame, and water with a fine-rosed pot
to prevent washing the seeds to one side. As
soon as the young plants are up give plenty of
air, otherwise they will grow weak and thin,
especially in the case of the Brizas. A slight
support of some kind will be necessary, and if
four sticks be inserted at equal distances apart,
and a piece of stout thread secured from one to
the other all round as soon as the plants require
it, the foliage produced afterwards will almost
hide both sticks and ties, and at the same time
prevent the plants from becoming untidy. From
the middle of February to the corresponding
period in March, or even a little later, is the
best time for sowing the seeds, as, if sown in the
autumn, they do not come in earlier than the
February ones. When the young plants are up,
if any are too thick, thin them out at once, and
on no account allow them to become dry after
the pots are full of roots, otherwise most of the
foliage will be ruined.—H. P.

Shrubby Speedwells.— In the southern
parts of England the Speedwells or Veronicas
play the part of hardy shrubs ; but in less
favoured spots, although they will often stand
many winters without succumbing, on the other
hand, if in any way cut by frost, they do not
flower well. They form, however, very useful
objects for conservatory decoration during the
winter, either in form or large bushes, or as
small sturdy little plants in 6-inch pots, for
which latter purpose some of the named hybrids
are well suited, as they flower more freely in a
small state than the original species, such as V.
decussata, speciosa, and others. A good selec¬
tion is Imperialis, bright amaranth-red; Celestial

light blue ; Rubens, violet; Leonard, purplish
blue; Belle Violette, violet; and the miniature
light-coloured Blue Gem ; while for its foliage
the variegated kind may be added. Stout bushy
plants for small pots may be obtained in the
following manner :—Take cuttings from the old
plants in spring, and put them in 4-inch or 5-inch
pots, using sandy soil for the purpose, and insert
them moderately thick, but without over-crowd¬
ing. After this give a good watering and place
them on a gentle hotbed, when they will soon
root; or, indeed, they will form roots without
any heat whatever, but in that case they will
be much longer in striking. One point to bear
in mind is this : If the cuttings are allowed to-
flag much they take a long time to recover, but
if this is borne in mind and guarded against they
are very easily struck. When rooted, pot them
singly in small pots, and place them in a cold
frame. As soon as the roots have taken hold of
the new soil pinch out the centre of each plant,
to encourage a bushy habit of growth, ana give
plenty of air on all occasions. By May they
will be good sturdy little plants, when they
may be turned out into the open ground, choos¬
ing for the purpose a spot fully exposed to the
sun, and not rich enough to encourage rankness
of growth. If in a very dry situation, water
must be given when requisite during the summer,
but it should not be applied unless absolutely
required. OnQ stopping after they are planted
will generally be sufficient, and by September,
with ordinary success, good bushy little plants
will be the result, when they must be taken up
and potted. As the roots form a dense wig¬
like mass, the plants do not sustain much check
by this operation, if care be taken to water
thoroughly and keep them pretty close and
shaded from bright sunshine till established. As
soon as the roots start in the new’ soil, air must
be given more freely, when the flowers will
commence to open, and continue expanded for a
long time.—H. P.

Celsla cretioa.—I wish to say more than
“ J. G.” (page 299) in favour of this plant. I
think it much more suitable for spring blooming
in pots. I pot up the young plants in autumn
in 9-inch or 10-inch pots, and keep them in a
cool house during the winter. In March they
throw up a nice lot of flower spikes and
look gay in a cool house or corridor for a long
time mixed with other plants. They last much
longer in bloom than in summer, and, w’hat is
more, the foliage is sweetly scented.—J. Cook.

11912.— Wintering cuttings.— You may
certainly employ the room in question for
wintering Geranium, Verbena, and other kind
of bedding plants which do not require more
than to be kept from frost through the winter.
All that you have to d<o is to arrange a stage
directly in front of the window, so that the
plants catch all the light possible through the
winter months, and make some arrangement for
blocking up the window on frosty nights. If
this is attended to there will not be much
danger of frost entering even in very hard
weather. Do not put the plants there before
the beginning of October, and take care that
they get plenty of air whenever the weather is
mild up to November, leaving air on at night.
In foggy weather give no air, and water no
more than is necessary to keep the soil just
moist.—J. C. B.

11915.— Cinerarias in vinery. —It is
not uncommon for Cinerarias to make large
foliage, but it is generally a sign that the plants
are doing well, and should not in any way pre¬
judicially influence the size of the fiowers. It
is, however, probable that in the shade of vines
it does not acquire sufficient substance ; there
is size without maturity, and this would cause
the flowers to come small. Cannot you grow
the plants in a frame where they are shaded
from hot sun but get plenty of light and air ?
They would undoubtedly flower better than
when grown under other things. Cinerarias
like a cool moist atmosphere, with plenty of
light, all through the summer and autumn.—
J. C., By fleet.

Tuberous-rooted Begonias. — Having
read so much in Gardening about Begonias,
I thought I would like to try them to see what
they were like, as they are unknown here. I
had half-a-dozen roots from a firm in Manchester,
which I planted in 5-inch pots, about the end
of February, placed them in a frame, kept
it pretty close for the sake nf keeping in the

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 20, 1884.

sun heat, and moved then to an unheated green¬
house as they showed above the soil. One of
them has been in flower for the last two months,
a lovely pink with large flowers ; but it has one
fault, about a dozen buds have dropped oif at
different times just when they were ready to
expand. I should like to know if it is a common
thing for Begonias to drop their buds. The
other three roots were longer in starting into
growth. I am sure it was three months before
they made their appearance above the soil, but
at last they came, far stronger than the first;
they are just showing bloom. The fifth root was
rather small, and I don’t think will bloom this
year, and the sixth root rotted. I must say they
are lovely flowers.— Ayrshire.

Winter - flowering: Pelargoniums. —
These are deservedly becoming popular ; but
hitherto the single or semi-double varieties have
been most in request. The Vesuvius type, of
which the old variety is still one of the best for
winter as well as for summer, is, I find, very
largely grown everywhere ; but it is surpassed
by a beautiful double pink variety, called
Madame Thibaut. This is the most persistent
bloomer I ever saw, and for purposes of decora¬
tion, in a cut state, it is charming, the blooms
being very double, and of a bright rosy pink.
Cuttings put into small pots in August are now,
without any special preparation, beginning to
bloom. Of course plants specially prepared by
a season of rest in the summer are the best
where means exist for their preparation; but
the majority of cultivators with limited glass
accommodation will hail as a boon any variety
that will flower both in summer and winter.
Another variety of great local repute for winter
flowering is Lo Grand, a large scarlet-crimson
nosegay kind that makes a capital wall plant.
I lately saw a fine old plant of it in Mr. Lambert
Wood’s garden that covered a large extent of
wall, and from which hundreds of large trusses
are gathered at Christmastide. It is, indeed,
appropriately named, for each truss was in
itself a good-sized nosegay. There is one pecu¬
liarity of the Pelargonium as a cut flower that
I have particularly noted, and that is that if
kopt moderately dry at the roots the petals do
not shake out so easily as when the plants are
saturated with water. There can be no ques¬
tion as to the adaptability of Pelargoniums of
the zonal type for winter flowering ; blooms of
them are already procurable all the year round,
and the places to see them in perfection is at
florists’ establishments from which the trade is
supplied with cut flowers in large quantities ;
there one sees whole houses of one kind, as the
owners do not as a rule go in for collections of
as many Borts as can be got together, but select
the very best they can get for growth. I have
seen winter houses full of the old Vesuvius,
and more brilliant than one ever finds this
variety out-of-doors in summer. A fitting com¬
panion to it is Mdme. Thibaut. There are
many kinds that flower more or less freely
during the dark winter months ; but one may
rely on sorts which one finds in the market for
being the best for that purpose. There is not,
as far as I have yet seen, a fitting white com¬
panion to these varieties, as the number of
trusses produced by 'Idrae. Vaucher, White
Clipper, &c., is by no means comparable with
those which the kinds just named produce ; and
as there are already plenty of white flowers
that can be had in winter, it is probable that
the brighter coloured Pelargoniums will be most
prized, both by florists and private growers,
for some years to come. Chrysanthemums
supply plenty of neutral tints that require a
little attention in the way of warm colours to
make them really effective.—G. J. H.

11907.— Leafless Azaleas.— Indian Azaleas have
leaves and flowers on them at the samo time ; they arc
evergreen. A. mollis and the other hardy Ghent Azaleas
are deciduous, producing their flowers in the spring before
the leaves. When it is not the naturo of a plant to produco
flowers aud leaves together they cannot bo mado to do so.
-J. D. E.

11900.— Plants for a shaded greenhouse.— The
temperature of 75 degs. to 90 degs. in summer and 00 degs.
to 75 degs. in winter would be warm enough for such stove
plants as Stephanotis, Eucharis, and Gardenias. Bou-
vardias do not require so much heat; they do better in
frames, or even out-of-doors In the summer months, and
will flower well in a house kept about 50 degs. os a
minimum in winter, but they will also do well in a higher
temperature.—J. D. E.

11924.—Coleuses—It is impossible to keep up a good
selection of Coleuses in a cool greenhouse during winter,
os they require not 55 or <W degs.iof heat. They

aro easily propagated by /oljtint gftng.—E ast

ROSES.

TEA ROSES ON RAISED BEDS.

The special culture of Tea Roses at Choshunt
consists chiefly in furnishing them with the
shelter afforded by rows of cordon fruit trees or
Beech hedges at the sides, and raising their
rootu a foot or so above the general surface.
These raised root runs for Tea Roses are also
well trenched and duly enriched. Beds 6 feet
wide, with alleys about 2 feet between, arranged
side by side in quantities, and planted with rows
of fine plants across the beds at intervals of 18
inches. Most of these dwarf trees are worked
on the seedling Brier, which Mr. George Paul
considers the best stock for Teas. Teas on the
Manetti, however, flower earlier than on the
seedling Brier, while, more singular still, Teas
on Brier cuttings bloom almost as early as those
on the Manetti. These

Raised beds not only afford a drier, but a
warmer root run for the roots than could be
found on the level surface. The most substan¬
tial advantages of the raised bed culture of Teas
are probably realised in winter just before the
advent of severe weather, say early in November.
The Roses are earthed up across the beds very
much in the same way as Potatoes. This simple
expedient sheds all the water off their crowns
and the major part of it off the roots into the
alleys, which are in wet weather converted into
water courses or miniature canals for the time
being. Either way the roots are kept warm,
and the collars of the plants with a few inches
above them are rendered frost proof.

Mulching. —Should exceptionally cold weather
occur, the bed system of Tea Roses likewise faci¬
litates their overhead covering with Fern fronds
or litter of any sort. For this purpose there is
nothing better than longish stable manure with
all its droppings iut&ct. A spread an inchortwoin
thickness of such slow conducting material would
render the roots and tops of Tea Roses frost¬
proof in the most severe seasons. In ordinary
ones they would be quite safe without litter,
the earthing up saving a sufficiency of top
for the future free breaking, luxuriant growth,
and free flowering of the Teas. Still, to render
security doubly secure, especially as our
temperature at times runs down 30 degs., or
even 40 degs., with only a few hours’ warning,
it is prudent practice to surface mulch Teas
with litter. This is the more desirable, inas¬
much as the litter proves useful in other ways ;
for example, as a manure and as a conserver of
moisture and resister of heat during the
droughts of summer. The slow and gradual
distribution of the manurial properties of the
litter to the roots of the Roses all through the
winter and early spring is one of the best pre¬
parations for their vigorous breaking and
healthy growth in summer. Roots thus long
and liberally fed will never fail to forward
supplies to meet—and that with unstinted
liberality—all the wants of the growing and
blooming tops. All this will be the more
apparent when it is borne in mind that root
growth, extension, and enlargement ceases not
throughout the winter months when protected
by earth and other mulchings from the severities
of the weather.

In April or May, according to the season, the
mulching may be removed, the soil levelled
down, and the Teas pruned back as closely as
desired. At Cheshunt most of them are pruned
back to within three or four eyes of their base.
If the Roses seem to need additional support,
the mulching or a little fresh manure may be

S ut in the furrows before the ridges are levelled
own, or it may be left on the fresh level surface
as a summer mulch. Only those who have prac¬
tised these simple and efficient methods of pre¬
serving, stimulating, and strengthening their
Roses can have any adequate notion of tneir in¬
vigorating effects. This system virtually re¬
news, almost recreates, the Roses annually.
Under this treatment it matters comparatively
little what becomes of the tops. So much force is
concentrated in the roots and root stocks, that
all necessary supplies of flowering shoots are
speedily reproduced. Like, however, most
systems, this one has one great risk or drawback.
The Roses have to pass through a crucial
period immediately after uncovering and prun¬
ing. In ticklish seasons it is wise to do both
tentatively. This system ensures the safety of
the Roses while they are under it. But as time

and weather enforce our return to level culture,
then comes the risk. It is trying to our patience
to uncover our Roses a straw or a clod at a
time. But the nearer we approach this course
in capricious seasons, the safer and better for
our Roses. Still, by noting time and studying
the weather, and also the state and condition of
the Roses, the critical processes of unearthing,
pruning, &c., may mostly be passed through in
safety. Such, at least, is the experience at
Cheshunt and other places where similar
methods of safely wintering Teas are adopted.
The loose and mellow condition of the soil of
these Rose beds is almost as useful in preserving
the roots moist and cool in summer as in keep¬
ing them warm and dry in winter. Loose earth
alone is an excellent mulch, and when to this
is added a considerable proportion of litter, the
two combined, especially if further enriched
with a little night soil or other fertiliser, may be
described as a model mulch for Teas. Should
A DELUGING of sewage or clean water be
needed, the loose surface will take in the
moisture like a sieve, and hold it firmly as a
vice. Were complete irrigation needed nothing
would be easier than to form walls of earth or
turf by the side of the beds, and turn the water
over the Roses. On the other hand, in wet
districts the beds might be raised so much in
the middle as to shed a portion of the water
into the alleys, and so away from the roots.
But these are but the possible side issues of this
most simple and sensible mode of cultivating
Tea Roses on raised beds. Its vital merits are
the carrying of any number of Tea Roses safely
through our winters in the open at the least
possible cost of time, labour, and material, thus
virtually making Teas as hardy as our Hybrid
Perpetual and other Roses. With this fact
established there seems absolutely no limit to
the culture of Tea Roses in the open air. Mucli
has been written and said of the substantial
merits of choice alpine and herbaceous plants,
and even annuals, for filling our gardens and
borders, and superseding the all too stereotyped
forms of summer bedding plants. Without
questioning the worth or value of any of these,
Tea Roses are preferable to any or all of them
put together. And a bright vision appears to
me of the gardens of the future mainly furnished
with Tea Roses, with Clove Carnations and
Picotees by way of variation, and with bases of
Mignonette and Musk Mimulus by way of
relieving the full and satisfying fragrance of the
Roses. A few more crimson and scarlet Tea
Rosea and handfuls of blue Cornflowers would
be needed to complete the circle of perfect
colouring in our coming Tea Rose gardens.

_ D. T.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(miscellaneous.)

11000.—Peat.—Briefly stated, peat is preser¬
vative and antiseptic in its action on roots. Plants
potted in it generally make more roots, hence
it is used either alone or in mixture for many
plants in a young state which require stronger
food when they come into full growth, and
when, as one might say, their digestive organs
are stronger. Lilium auratum may be cited
as an instance of the preservative nature of
peat, as it is only in Rhododendron beds which
are composed of this material that that fine Lily
attains to any great longevity in the open
ground in this country. This is in a great
measure because the peat docs not become close,
sour and waterlogged, but superflous moisture
drains freely away. Therefore, in dry weather,
plants growing in it require much attention in
the way of watering or it becomes quickly
parched. Azaleas, Cape Heaths, New Holland

S lants, and other things grown in peat alone
emand constant care in this respect, or the
roots perish or become crippled.—J. C. B.

11959.—Oats in gardens.— The following
expedient will be found a s^ie remedy for the
depredations of cats in small gardens (it is a
modification of a device Nature employs for the
protection of some of her subjects as exemplified
in the thorn and the bramble):—Take some strips
of straight, grained deal, from 1 foot to 9
inches in length, and split them into pieces
about the size of a lead pencil. Point one end
.of. each. Th/m take a pin, and with a pair of
cutting pliers cut it asunder in a sloping direc
tiou just under the head. Then with the plicr«

Sept. 20, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

345

t

rfl?

t*

;S>

Jsai?

OE* *®

lit

JKI*

insert the cut end of the pin into the unpointed
end of the piece of deal. A quantity of these
can be made in a short time. When enough is
obtained for the purpose stick them into the
ground, three deep, in a slanting direction,
facing outwards on each side of the bed of
plants to be protected, on the same principle
that a square of infantry prepares for cavalry.
—L. C. K.

11961.— Loughborough boiler.—I have
one of these boilers in a lean-to house, used as
a vinery, which is 18 feet long and 8 feet 6 inches
wide, and would recommend “ Devonian " to
adopt this boiler for use in the house he describes.
I have used the boiler referred to for over two
years, and, although the position is a very ex¬
posed one, and subject to sudden changes of
wind and weather, have found it to answer all
my requirements. With proper stoking it will
burn ten or twelve hours, and I think that is
quite long enough to meet the wishes of any
reasonable mortal. As to cost something will
depend upon carriage, as well as distance from
railway; but no doubt the best plan would be
to write to the makers, giving them particulars
as to size of house, &c., and they will tell him
the exact cost. There is no difficulty about the
fixing, which could be done by any handy smith
or plumber in an hour.—W. B. W.

- I have a greenhouse, 15 feet by 9

feet, heated with one of these boilers, pur¬
chased at Messenger and Co., Loughborough.
I believe it is called No. 1. It has two pipes,
4 inches by 12 feet long. Any bricklayer can set
it. I connected the pipes myself without any
trouble by following the directions. I set it
up last March, and from what I have proved I
anticipate perfection this comiDg winter. I can
reduce the heat of water till it is just warm,
or I can boil it in a “couple of fires.” I use
house cinders and slack, mixed. If you try this
I think you will not regret. (See answer 11938.)
—M. P.

1193Sand 11961.— Boiler for greenhouse.
—It is a little awkward to recommend the pro¬
duction of one particular maker over that of
another, but if it is permitted in the pages of
Gardening I have no objection to say, in
answer to “ Kent ” and “ Devonian,” that in my
experience the Loughborough boiler has ful¬
filled the expectations of its capabilities held
out to us by its makers. As it is an amateur’s
boiler, it is to be expected that amateurs will
take a personal interest in the working of it,
and not leave it entirely in the hands of a
“ man,” and that they will endeavour to find
out by experiment how it can be best managed.
The experimental exercise is of itself a most
interesting one, and if repeated a few times it
will be found that there is no difficulty in keep¬
ing the fire alight for 12 or even 24 hours
without requiring to touch it in the interval,
and a few more trials will show that it can be
kept in even for 48 hours. Sufficient instruc¬
tions have already been given in Gardening,
particularly in Vol. V., to enable anyone who
takes a personal interest in the matter to
manage any boiler of the same, or nearly the
same, make. If the amateur will study the
effects produced by opening or shutting,
partially or wholly, the ashpit door, the
furnace door, and feeding door, combined with
the funnel damper, he will find that ho can
produce a variety of effects, and almost any
any degreo of heat required for a small house,
say 16ft. by 9ft. In answer to “ Devonian,” I
may say that I got a local mason to put my
boiler into position, and I put up the pipes
myself, with the assistance of a practical friend,
and we had the water boiling in about an hour
afterwards—very much to our dismay. Full
instructions as to fuel and management are
given by the makers of all these amateur
boilers.—P. R.

-Frobably the fuel used by “ Kent ” for his

Loughborough boiler was not sufficiently small,
and would in consequence “hang up” in the
boiler and so bring about the result he com¬
plains of. If coke is used, it will require to be
broken up small enough to prevent this
occurring, large pieces invariably causing a
difficulty in keeping the fire going, as in all
small boilers. Household cinders are often
used, and answer tolerably well; but small coal
will not do, unless the stoking is often attended
to. Have the doorw^b&m .pmperlyl closed?
Making allowance foj ywg i^iop as the

draught, the two upper doors should be closed,
the lower one left open from a quarter of an
inch to an inch, and the damper half in; and
with these precautions, and properly broken fuel
used, “ Kent’s ” boiler should be kept going for
ten or twelve hours without difficulty.—
W. B. W.

- I have one of “Messenger and Co.’s

Loughborough boilers.” I set it up last March
and commenced firing. It gives me the greatest
satisfaction. If I want it to burn up slowly I
close the bottom draughts and leave the damper
open about £ inch. With this mode I have
made the fire up between nine and ten o’clock
at night, and it has not wanted mending until
six or seven o’clock the next night. This was
in April last. I was burning then a mixture
of slack, house cinders, and coke. The more
life there is in the fuel used the closer you have
to make the draughts.—M. P.

11905.—Plants failing.—If the roof is
covered with climbers you cannot expect to
grow flowering plants under it. The Roses do
not get enough light and air, and therefore
mildew ; and the flowers fail because the condi¬
tions are not such as to ensure their acquiring
substance. If you wish to retain the Passi-
flora, train it thinly here and there over the
roof, so as to leave clear spaces which the
unobstructed light can pass through to the
plants underneath. If you do this you will
get much greater satisfaction from your house,
as you will be then enabled to grow a great
variety of plants. Thin the shoots out in
December, retaining a few of the strongest.
You will get better flowers on them.—J. C. B.

- Chrysanthemums and Roses are both

very liable to be attacked by mildew, and
if they are placed in a house at a consider¬
able distance from the glass the leaves would
be more liable to be attacked than they
would in a house where they were near the
glass roof, with air passing freely over and under
them. There is nothing better for killing mildew
than flowers of sulphur. It ought to be lightly
dusted over the leaves. If the hot-water pipes
are painted with soapy water, thickened with
sulphur, and heated, the fumes thrown off also
destroy mildew. Chrysanthemums ought
always to have their leaves dusted with sulphur
before they are taken into the greenhouse.—
J. D. E.

11927.—Name of plant.—The plant you
refer to, and which you think may be a species
of Clianthus, is in all probability Sutherland ia
frutescens, more commonly known under the
name of Colutea frutescens. It is perfectly
hardy in this country, and is a frequent inhabi¬
tant of shrubberies, although many do not
appear to know it, and it is scarcly so much grown
as it deserves to bo. It may be procured at
any good nursery, and some of our large seeds¬
men who sell seeds of trees and shrubs would
probably supply seed.—J. C., By fleet.

11942. — Rose for wall. —You could not
have a better Rose for a wall than Gloire de
Dijon, and for a crimson one try General Jacqui-
mot, which is very vigorous and does well here.
Reino Marie Henriette and Cheshunt Hybrid
are excellent climbers. November is a good
time to move Lily of the Valley. Make a space
the size you require the bed with some good
leaf-mould, and then lay the crowns on it evenly,
and cover them with some fine leaf-mould to the
depth of 2 inches.— J. T. G. Bicton.

11914.—Asphalt©.—I paid Mr. Walker, of Back Port¬
land Crescent, Woodhouse Lane, Leeds, 4s. per yard,
2 J Inches thick, to do work forme. He would go anywhere
to do it.— J. H. Robinson.

11915.— Large foliage on Cinerarias.— Very large
foliage is not an index of good cultivation. The large
leaves are the result of shade and too much water, and
such foliage is flabby and dies at the edges before the
plants have passed through the blooming period. The
only remedy is to grow the plants in a well ventilated
house, place them near the glass, shade only from direct
and hot sunshine, and do not he too freo with the water
pot, although they must not suffer for lack of it.—J. D. E.

Primrose .—The insect on the Camellia leaves is scale.
Remove it with a piece of wood, then wash the leaves with

soapy water.- Enquirer .—Write to some of the florists

who advertise in our columns.- Borderer .—The flower of

the Aspidistra mentioned was an ordinary flower.-

Robert Forster .—Nothing unusual about your Mushrooms.

- 1. S. /. IT.—From any hardy tree nursery. See our

advertisement columns.—— J. B. Bmle .—Try Mr. Boiler,

Nurseryman, Kensal New Town, London.- J. T .—You

may get the Strawberry named from Mr. Charles Turner,
Royal Nurseries, Slough. Send name to Editor of " Garden
Directory,” 37, Southampton Street, Covent Garden,

London, W.C.- A. M. Cooke.— You will find many

articles on the management of Maiden hair Ferns in
Gardknino. As you have the back numbers you will find
no difficulty in obtaining all the information you require.

- Joe. Ho worth. —Tea Roses can be obtained at any good

Rose nursery.

Names of plants. — Mis* Mason. — Euphorbia

Lathvris.- Glenavna.— Polygonum sachalinense.-

General Moody.—D uchessc d’Oldenburg (fine specimens).

- H. IF.—Selaginella viticulosa.- J KingsmilL—

Satureja hortensis.- B. M. Prentice. —The flowers were

rather too much withered to enable us to tell correctly
whether they were those of the old crimson Clove ; but wo

think they were, only rather small.- A. H. Farran. — 1,

Adiantum ajthiopicum ; 2, Doodia dives; 3, Onychlum
japonicum ; 4, Selaginella Mertcnsi.

QUERIES,

Rules for Correspondents.— AU communications

for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the pajxr only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisimr. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the ouery
answered. When more than one Query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com*
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when good
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name varieties
of florists? flowers , such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas,
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist who
has the means of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or dowers sent to name should always
accompany the parcel.

11994.— Asphalt© for tennis court.— What would
be the approximate cost of laying down an asphaltc lawn
tennis court ? Would concrete or cement be cheaper than
asphaltc, and bo satisfactory to play upon?—j. H. P.
[About 4s. per square yard, 2J inches thick.]

11995.—Honeysuckle.—Can I grow the Wild Honey¬
suckle from cuttings, or must I get roots ?—H. T.

11996.— Wintering plants.— I hove about 120 annual
Chrysanthemums, mixed, lrom 2J inches to 5 inches high,
in an open frame. Will they bloom this year, if not, how
can I best keep them through the winter ? Can I keep
Geraniums, Fuchsias, Ac., through winter in a disused
harness room over a stable ? Is it too late to sow Holly¬
hock seed in the open, also Phlox Drummondl? Can I
keep cuttings of Calceolaria in the open all winter with
canvas?—H. T.

11997.— Bees in roof —The roof of my house is full of
bees. Can you tell me how to get rid of them ? Also can you
tell me how to clear my tennis ground of Plantains, Ac.,
without new turf ?— J. E. Yonok.

11998.— Managing a greenhouse.—I havo just
got a small “ greenhouse for the million,” 9 feet by 6 feet
by 7 feet. It nas a stage about 2 feet wide down each sido
and a shelf across each end, so there is notmuch room. It
was only finished at the end of July, hut it has looked
exceedingly pretty and gay ever since with Geraniums and
the better sort of half-hardy annuals. I have had some
particularly fine Balsams, but of course all the plants were
raised in the frame. I shall be very glad of any Informa¬
tion about the management of a greenhouse, especially as
to ventilation. Thera are three ventilators, one on each
6ide and one in the roof (span), but I do not know whether
to open all in cooler weather. The house is exposed to
the sun on the east, south, and west, except that it is
sheltered for about an hour in the hottest part of the day
by a large tree on the south. Will a lamp in damp or
frosty weather be sufficient to keep the plants healthy ?
The house has no floor, being set on the turf of the lawn.
What can I have, at a small expense, to flower in winter
and early spring? How soon would Pansies, Polyanthuses,
Auriculas, and Primroses flower in pots if sown now ?
How late will it be safe to take cuttings under glajs, but
without artificial heat, of Geranium, Heliotrope, Petunia,
and Begonia? Will Nicotiana atfinis live through the
winter? Answers to the above questions will greatly
oblige— A Bkoinner.

11999.—Peaches falling off.— What is the probable
cause of Peaches and Nectarines falling before they are
fully ripe? The trees have been in their present position
in an orchard-house for tho last three years. They havo
plenty of light and space, and there is a magnificent show
of fruit, which, however, falls off by the dozen every day.
It cannot be the fault of overcropping, os the fruit of two
or three trees which have borne a very scanty crop fall in
the same way.—T. R.

12000.—Topping Raspberries.—I havo some Rasp¬
berries which have sent up canes 8 feet to 9 feet high, and
strong in proportion. Would it he advisable to top them,
and if so to about what height?—C. G.

12001.— Sowing Onions.— We have stiff clay soil.
Should the groundbe rolled before and after setting Onions
in spring and autumn ?—J. W. G.

12002.— Peaches blotched.— I have read the articlo
by " E. Hobday” on “The Early Peach House" with
much interest, and the rules laid down have been observed
by me almost to the letter. I have a splendid show
of fruit on my Peach tree (Lord Palmerston), but as it
ripens a great deal of the fruit show's large blotches on tho
surface, and on carefully cutting it open I discover in every
instance that the stone is not solid, but split, and looks
bruised and decayed, whilst the kernel is sound and of
good size. The tree is in vigorous grow th and looks healthy,
and every care has been taken as regards ventilation and
keeping tho ground dry during the ripening season. Can
you assign any reason for this state of things in order that
1 may rectify any defects in cultivation for the future?
The tree is undqr a le*n-to gla«s roof and the front ^earing
wood i* tied with bius to galvanised wires 3 inches apart
and 14 inches from the glass. The ventilation is given from

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 20 , 1884 .

below and above. I propose when the fruit Is all gathered
to do away with the wire and have a wooden trellis work,
as others have suffered in a similar manner and with trees
growing in the open.—G. A.

12008.— Scarlet Perfection Melon.— My gardener
grew a Melon (Scarlet Perfection) the other day which
weighed only 1 ounco short of 4 lb., and was in perfect
condition and of flno flavour. Am I right in deeming this
an unusually large one ?— Borderer.

12004.— Peaches from seed — I noticed in Garden¬
ing that Peaches will bear fruit when raisrd from seed
without grafting. Will someone kindly inform me when
seeds should be planted and if the Btone should be broken,
or put in as taken from the Peach? Also will Apple trees
raised from seeds of Ribston Pippin need grafting? 1 want
to grow them as dwarf trees.— Pkacii.

12005.—Choice plants.—I should liko for someone to
kindly tell me the names of any specially handsome or un¬
common foliaged plants to suit the following conditions.
They are to be planted out under a vine, in a moderately
heated greenhouse with Ferns. I have Musas, Palms, and
Aspidistras. I require both specimen plants and low grow¬
ing creepers, if variegated so much the better. If any
flowering plants could be found to do under the some con¬
ditions f should be glad to know of them.—W. S.

12006.—Gourds for show.—I should like to know if
I could grow the Mammoth Gourd tit for show bv the
second week in August. 1 have no glass to raise the plants.
Any advice on the subject I should be most thaukfulfor.—
Inquirer.

12007.— Abutilons out-of-doors.— About tho eDd
of May I removed two plants, then about 5 feet high, from
my conservatory, and planted them, pots and all, against
a wall facing south ; they aro now about 8 feet hi^h and
one moss of white bloom. I shall be glad to know if they
will stand the winter out-of-doors, as they will be too large
for their old quarters.—T. B. P., D»vun.

12008.—Cinerarias and Calceolarias.—I have
fifty choice Calceolarias coming into bloom. I put the
seeds in five weeks too soon. Should I cut the bloom off
or strike the side shoots, or will the same plant flower next
spring ? 1 have also fifty Cinerarias that will flower in

about six weeks ; will the young side shoots taken off and
fresh planted flower a second time ?—H. J.

12000.— Mignonette for winter.— I should feel
obliged if any correspondent would tell mo how to grow
Mignonette in potB so that it may flower in winter. I
sowed last month and have now healthy plants in pots with
four or five leaves each. Should they bo kept out-of-doors
for the present? Is it advisable to plunge the (Kits in
ashes? I have gloss frames and a greenhouse, but some¬
how my Mignonette in pots is always poor and goes to seed
without flowering properly, though my outdoor Mignonette
is excellent. I live In Kent in a moderato climate.—H. C.

12010 —Treatment of Roses.— I purchased some
Roses this month—Gloire de Dijon, Morcchal Kiel, Rene
d’Or, and Isabella Sprunte ; when they come there was not
a particle of earth attached to their roots. The roots
looked as though they had been washed. I planted three
of them in pots and put in a frame, the others I put in tho
open ground ; they are all withered up and the leaves turn¬
ing yellow. Is there any prospect of these coming up next
year, or had I better throw them away and purchase again
n November ?— One ln a Fix.

12011.— Picotees dying oft.— Can anyone give tho
cause and cure of Picotees dying off? Last year and this
also 1 have lost nearly all my Carnations and Picotees ;they
go all at once as though something was at the root. I
have tried many things but without any good result.—
Pkrtlkxkd.

12012.— Rose stocks— As I have a collection of about
forty-flvo Roses, I should like to have a few maiden blooms
of my own, and as I do not know where to get a few
Manetti cuttings I thought somo reader might help me out
of my difficulty, both os to where to get them and where
to plant.—A Yorksuihkuak.

12013.—Dahlia tubers.—What Is the best way to dry
Dahlia tubers prior to storing away for tho winter, and is
dry sawdust a good thiag-to store them in ?—F. W. S.

12014.— Picturesque greenhouse.— After reading
Mr. Cornhill's interesting letter I thought he might give
mo some advice. I have a conservatory about lb feet
long by 5 feet wide, situate upon a balcony facing the
south, It has glass in largo panes from the floor to the
root round three sides, the roof is of wood and about
12 feet high. I should like to fill it with Palms and other
tropical foliaged plants, but I have no means of hoating
it. A French window opens into it and I want to arrange
tho plants to have a good view’ from the windows. I find
the conservatory very hot and dry in summer ; I want to
know of a good olimbing plant that will grow luxuriantly
in summer, and form a shade for winter. I am thinking
of having some large boxes made and filling them with
Cocoa-nut fibre and plunging hardy shrubs in pots in them,
but perhaps Mr. CornhUl or somo other correspondent
will give me their advioe.—F. E. B., Dtrby.

12015.— Destroying 1 woodllce.— Will somoono in¬
form me tho most ready way of destroying woodlioc in a
greenhouse where they can be seen at night after dark
with the aid of a light, by hundreds and thousands, creep¬
ing all over the plants and feeding on those they like beat?
I may add that thoy eat fronds of Maiden-hair Ferns and
make them look very unsightly.— Youno Gardener.

12016.—Water Plants.— Will some reader kindly
tell me where to find, and how to distinguish. Valliancria
spiralis, Anacharis, and Charaa, to put in a freshwater tank
Indoors ?— Minnow.

12017.— Cucumber growing.—I am about to build
a span-house for the growth of Cucumbers in winter as
well as summer, and should be obliged if some practical
gardener will givo me some information as regards the
proper length of sashes, what pitch the roof should have,
and if it is necessary to have side lights; also can I apply
bottom heat as well as top from one boiler? I should havo
to make the foundations and pits of wood, as tho premisos
arc on a short lease.— Grantham.

12018.—Greenfly.—I have a small greenhouse, and
whatever 1 try I seem to be boaten by greenfly and
another small insect I do not know ths name of. They
ruin everything. Whal must ? T fAspCJuraged for

cannot g«t t kl of VlV.

12010.—Passion-flower fruits.— I have In my
garden several Passion-flowers which have a large quantity
of fruit upon them. Will some reader kindly inform me
the beat way to pickle or preserve them, as they are almost
ripe?—F. Watts.

12020.—Insects on Geraniums.—My bedding
plants flourished remarkably well all through June ana
July, but in the hot weather of August two bright beds of
Vesuvius and Tom Thumb were attacked by green cater¬
pillars deposited underneath the leaf, which not only
devoured the leaf but ate into the buda, thereby depriving
the plants of further bloom. Please suggest a remedy for
furture seasons. I should mention that during this summer
an extraordinary number of white butterflies havo dis¬
ported themselves in my garden, which is situate in a
town.—J. B.

12021 .—Hydrangeas not blooming.—I have half,
a-dozen Hydrangeas, not one of which has flowered this
season owing to being kept shaded during autumn and
spring, but has stood outside in the sun all summer;
they aro nice, strong-looking plants. I would like to
know, seeing they did not bloom this year, if the stems
that arc on them just now will bloom next year, or will
they have to be cut down ; also would it do to cut them
just now or wait till spring ?—Ayrshire.

12022.—Hollyhocka—I want to grow Hollyhocks In
my garden next autumn. When am I to sow the seeds?
What attention do they require ? Also I want the names
of showy flowers for a large garden, but which do not
require an experienced gardener's attention, and also
should be obliged by a few directions as to how they are
to be managed.—S. A. B.

12023.— Parsley all the year round.—I want
Parsley all the year round. I have no greenhouse or place
in whioh to raise seeds. I hear Parsley should be sown
twice a yoar; please give full instructions about it and how
to grow* double curled Parsley. Does the bed need any

r rticular foundation? 1 know nothing of gardening.—
A. B.

12024.—Dahlias from seed. -Can I raise Dahlias
from seed ? If so when ought the seed to be sown ?
Would they do in a coach-house during tho winter?—
S. A. B.

12025.— Lilium auratum.— I have a Llllum auratum
which has sent up four shoots about 1$ feet high this
year, but they are now showing yellow loaves, and have
not flowered. The Lilium is also making a number of
shoots or young bulbs at the base of each stem just near
the soil. Is this natural with tho Lilium auratum? How
ought I now to treat it? I may meutlon that the Lilium
has been in my greenhouse all the summer.—S. L.

12026.—Saving Rose seed.— As this bids fair to be
a year very likely to ripen a large quantity of Rose seed,
will someone give an artiole in Gardening Illustrated
on the best means of preserving and sowing the same ?—
Jambs Hopper.

12027.-Larg© Sunflower.— I have a Sunflower
8 feet 6 inches high, the width of the flower being 14
inches. Is this an unusual size ?—George Titpkr.

12028.— Mulberries.— I have a large old Mulberry
tree which bears well always, but the greater part of tho
fruit never ripens properly ; only about one berry in
twenty is really fine and purple and swoet, the others
mostly drop off. What is the reason? Also will anyone
kindly tell me the proper flavouring of fruit to mix with
Muitarries for proservo or pies. I find them so sickly by
themselves.—I olantur.

12029.— Fruitless Plum trees.— What can I do
with three Plum trees planted against a west wall ? They
have been neglected so long that it would bo impossible
to train them properly now. They do not seem old trees
and yet they do not grow. I have had them pruned and
they have bloomed well three seasons, but produce no
fruit. Should I cut them nearly dowa and train young
wood from thorn, or plant them in tho open ?— Iolanthh.

12030.—Plum trees dying-.—I have a Plum tree
against an east wall which bore well, but has died down
branch by branch, until now it is only a main stem about
6 feet high, with a few small branches springing from it.
I do not perceive any canker. Is it worth trying to train
or had I better root it up and plant another young tree in
its place ? It is an excellent Plum, but the foliage is usually
very curly and shrivelled. Two or three other Plums in
different parts of tho garden are dying down in the same
way.—I olantur.

12031.—Pansies for show.—Will any reader kindly
oblige me with any information as to whether tho rules of
Pansy shows allow gum to be used In staging the blooms
for competition, or whether Pansies are disqualified when
damaged or eaten by snails?—W. Y. B.

12032.—Tuberoses.—If someone will tell me how to
treat the roots of Tuberoses when done flowering, so os to
use them again, I shall feel obliged.—N oraian.

12033.—Grapes cracking.— I have a few vines in
large pots, with the rods running along tho top of a small
greenhouso. This summer most of the berries havo split.
Can anyone tell me the reason?—V inbh.

12034.—Dahlias from seed.—Am I right in thinking
that to grow single Dahlias from seed it will be time
enough to sow in pans in frames in February or March,
when large enough to handle, plant in pots, and gradually
harden off and plant out in May or June where to flower
same summer, and if left undisturbed will thoy grow the
next year ?— N. B. Barlow.

12035.—Camellia seed.—I have somo largo seed on
my Camellia. It is very hard. Should it be gathered,
and when sown should it be opened or soaked in water to
soften it ?—L. O.

12036.— Heat for Coleuses.— What heat do Coleuses
require to keep them during winter?—E. M. M.

12087.— Insects on Pear trees.— My Pear trees and
evergreen Oaks havo been attacked with a multitude of
tiny white moths. They lay their eggs under the loaves.

I have tried syringing with soft soap and water, but the
eggs being under the leaves it is difficult te reach them.
In the meantime the mischief is rapidly spreading to other
troes. What would be the best thing to do?—G. P.

13038.—Culture of Hollyhocks.— Last year I pur¬
chased and planted some Hollyhocks, only two had bloom
v Dikes on them, and the frost cut them down before they

opened their blooms, and there has been no shoots come
from the roots this year. I purchased another dozen plants
in spring and they are full of life and have very large leaves,
but there is no sign of a flower-spike starting. Can any¬
thing be done to make them flower, and what can I do to
preserve them through the winter? They are planted in
a row facing south, in soil well dressed with stable manure,
and have been kept watered. 1 have a large tub with cow-
dung, sheeps' droppings, horse droppings, filled with
water, and with this 1 water twice a week. 1 am a great
admirer of double Hollyhocks; but it is disappointing to
purchase vear after year and get no bloomB.— A Lover or
Hollyhocks.

12039. — Worms on lawns —A number of worm heap*
have made their appearance in ray lawn. Can you or any
of your readers inform me how they can bo reduced, as
the wet weather is coming ou, and because they disfigure
the appearance of the lawn? And what ought to be done
to a fine Gross lawn in cold and wot weather?—W. W.

POULTRY.

Seasonable notes.— -Most birds are now
moulting, and the supply of eggs, except from
this year’s pullets, is consequently very small.
With many poultry keepers the shabby look of
the stock and the empty nest boxes are quite suffi¬
cient cause for him to neglect his birds. But it
should be quite the reverse if he wishes them to
get over the moult quickly and recommence
laying. Extra good food should be given, and
plenty of it. Keep the run clean, and, if a
small one, the feathers should be gathered up
as they fall from the birds, or they will rot and
smell offensively. This is a good time to white¬
wash interior of house and fittings. Work it
well into the crevices to destroy vermin. Pre¬
pare for wind and wet by seeing to roofs and
patching up any cracks to avoid draughts, but not
so as to exclude proper ventilation. Nothing is
better for this purpose than a couple of squares
of perforated zinc let in high up the side of the
house. Early hatched pullets should now bo
commencing to lay, or at least showing signs of
being about to do so. The most sure signs are
the development of comb and the Bound uttered,
by a hen known as “ cackling.” Pullets are tho
only reliable winter layers, and the fortunate
possessor of a few well matured specimens of
such breeds as Brahmas, Cochins, or Plymouth
Rocks can depend on having eggs right through
the winter, that is if he looks after them pro¬
perly. A good warm meal early in the morning
with a sprinkling of Cayenne pepper or spice
condiment, is a great help. Avoid overcrowd¬
ing by weeding out old hens that have gone
through their second laying season. Likewise
consign to the cook all cockerels not wanted for
stock purposes or for sale. Do not forget next
year’s Breeding time by keeping any hens which
have proved themselves exceptionally good
layers, and if a chance of picking up one or two
vigorous cockerels from another strain occurs
it should not bo lost. This is the only way to
work up a good flock of healthy and profitable
fowls. Wo have lately been giving our fowls
some brewer’s grains one or two days a week,
with barley meal worked in with the hand. It
is much relished and Beems to agree with them,
but they must bo fresh and sweet. Malt dust
is very useful sprinkled over the soft food.
Fowls will eat almost anything thus treated.
It is very stimulating, and should take the place
of the cayenne or spice. Many persons consider
brewer’s grains to be bad egg producers, but wc
havo found them to be quite tho contrary. Of
course, like everything else, they should
only be given in moderation. They are remark¬
ably cheap, and can be generally bonght at
about nincponce per bushel; and malt dust
at about a shilling a bushel. Ducks also do
well on grains mixed witli half barley or maize
meal. Many pullets when first commencing to
lay often drop the eggs from the roost, some¬
times with no shells to them, but if clean com¬
fortable nests be provided they will soon make
use of them. Always let tho nest bo large and
roomy ; they should never be less than 15 inchos
square. Crushed oyster shells should bo given
in the soft food. Thoy can be purchased ready
crushed at Spratt’s Patent Works, Bermondsey,
S.K. As regards killing off old hens, it should
be done directly they are observed to bo
moulting, and not after, as during the operation
they lose in weight very much as well as in
quality. Now that we may expect much wet
weather we strongly advise the use of troughs
of some kind for the soft food, as it will become
bo fouled on tho wot ground ; but if the ground
hi hard and dry, ar.d r,he food is properly mixed
Into a hard fragile mass, it is far healthier to

Sept. 20, 1884]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Boatter it about and make the birds run for it.
In small runs troughs should always be used, as
tikie ground is necessarily very foul with drop¬
pings, besides which it is cleaner. The troughs
should be scalded out once or twice a week at
least. Round tin ones, about 1 foot in diameter
and 3 inches deep, with sides perfectly up¬
right, are as good as any. Another advantage
in using troughs is that after the fowls have
e-stten their fill the food can easily be removed,
which prevents waste. We have lately been
giving our birds Vegetable Marrows, well
uoiled and strained, ana mixed well with Barley
meal. We grow largo quantities on purpose,
and consider it as good as Turnips or Mangolds,
"both for hens and ducks. Of course, Potatoes
are better, but then they are more expensive.—
Andalusian.

Roof for fowls’ house.— The roof of my fowl houso
Is wood, covered over with well-tarred felt. Upon this l
last year put upholsterer’s brown paper with another
coating of tar. I must do something to it again this
autumn, and feel strongly tempted to put a layer of
Portland cement over it, but fear doing so without know¬
ing what the effect would be ; therefore, 1 should feel very
much obliged to anyone who would kindly tell me if there
should be any reason against my doing so.—L. M.

AQUARIA.

Fish breeding in aquariums. —Seeing in
last week’s Gardening a note by “R. F.”
sayftig that fish will not breed in aquariums, I beg
to say that with respect to sticklebacks he is
very much in error, as the following account
will show, and also may prove interesting to
many of your readers. Having constructed a
Fern case outside the window of my dining¬
room, I placed in the centre of it a bell-glass
12 inches across the top, and about 12 inches
deep, through the knob of which I had drilled a
g-inch hole, through which passes a waste water
pipe. I built it with clinkers and cement, a
small arch on either side of the waste pipe, and
with a Bpire in the centre to within half an
inch from the level of the rim of the glass,
passing through the waste pipe, I made a tub©
to supply a small fountain, the jet of which
is supported by a figure about 2 inches high,
which I cast in zinc from a T bell handle
and the water is supplied from the main. The
bottom of the tank is covered with about
jf-inch clean sand, and planted with water
weeds, Ac. Two sticklebacks were the original
occupants. They lived through the winter, but
one was injured when cleaning the tank, and
after lingering a few days died, leaving the
other, who displayed considerable sympathy,
sole proprietor. During the winter, finding
the spray from the fountain made the Ferns too
wet, I made an inverted jet, which sent a
stream of water and air half way down the
tank, to the evident delight and enjoyment of
the fish. After this jet has been discharging
about ten minutes, the weeds and fish and rock-
work are all covered with tiny air bubbles. On
April 4th I introduced six more sticklebacks,
four three-apined, one of which was quite red
(and in him the interest centres), and two ten-
spined, which are a smaller and more graceful
fish. Next day it became apparent that mis¬
chief was brewing, for the red fellow, which we
call “soldier,” after inspecting the general
arrangements of the tank, sanitary and other¬
wise, took forcible possession of the whole
bottom, and remorselessly drove the others
a 1 >out until they crouched and huddled
all together near the surface of the
water in the weeds, at the furthest point
possible from the scene of his operations, and
woe betide if one ventured so much as to
wriggle his tail. On the third day from his
arrival “ soldier” commenced to construct a nest
on the floor of the tank under one of the
arches, and spent his time in chasing any of the
others who ventured to move, and in collecting
suitable pieces of weed and rubbish, and
building it into a compact nest, forcing it down
with his head, and at times lying on it broad]
side until to his satisfaction. This state of affairs
continued about fourteen days, during which
time two or three spines were driven to
commit suicide by jumping out of the tank.
Their place was supplied by two others, who
seemed likely to be suitable partners. These
“ soldier ” treated with more consideration from
the first, and four days after the introduction
he enticed one of them to inspect his nest, but
it was not approved f?w more jUys were

spent in altering and improving, and when all same manner. They should not be divided, but
was right the female fish spawned the nest, and peeled and the cores pushed out with a vegetable
directly this was done “ soldier ” cheveyed her cutter. Cooking Apples should always be used
away and would not let her rest until quite ex- for this dish, as eating Apples simmer into a
hausted and at the furthest point from the nest marmalade.

possible. Eight days from the first observed A nice dish of Cabbages. —Boil a Cab¬
spawning I drew from the nest, by means bage in water—adding a little salt and carbon-
of a long glass tube, three live fish eggs, a te of soda to keep it a good colour—until soft,
which I placed under a microscope, and Drain it in a colander, put half of it into the
•with a low power could distinctly see the vegetable dish, grate cheese finely over it,
form of the embryo fish, and with a high power sprinkle on a very little salt and pepper, and
could trace the passage of the water through the pu t on a little fresh butter in very small pieces,
gills and the action of the internal organs. I p u t over this the remaining Cabbage, and on
returned two of the eggs into the nest and kept the top of it grate finely some cheese, put a few
the other in a glass jar (this egg retained its little bits of butter, then pepper, and grate over
vitality for eight days). I now removed the all a thick covering of bread crumbs. Bake in
other fish from the tank and left the “soldier” the oven for twenty minutes. This is a delicious
alone with his nest, through which he was almost dish, and a nice change when one has grown
constantly forcing a Btream of water by the tired of plain boiled Cabbage,
action of his fins, and he was constant in his Beg 1 flip-—Two eggs, one breakfastcupful of cream, a

i V e 1_ r :r ;i m..i.r’.r'.n t.ha r><r<ru thrn-nnirhlv. nut them

watchfulness, for if a snail or beetle came in little wilt to tastu. Beat the egg* thoroughly, put them
proximity he would go for it in a manner ealeu- jjj® a Vhe paiToveV'a' cl car fire until the ingredients
lated to teach it better. Eleven days from nna- tb j 0 fc en> stirring constantly to prevent burning. Sorvo
ing the eggs, and thus nineteen or twenty days immediately with buttered bread or toast,
from first observed spawning, a quantity of Egg-plant.—Is the white fruit of the Egg-plant
young fry were found lying resting upon the edible raw or cooked, and how is it prepared for table ?—

sand outside the nest, and upon closely watch- E - T - ----

ing “ soldier,” he was seen to bring the little fish BIRDS

from the nest in his mouth and snoot them out _

on the sand to dry. The incubation con- Parrot with swelled beak.-I would be greatly

ing “ soldier, he was seen to bring the little nsh
from the nest in his mouth and snoot them out
on the sand to dry. The incubation con¬

tinued for about five days when “ soldier ’’broke obliged if anyone can tell me of a remedy that will cure
„p his nest. The young fry upon first o^n?n»“^atSiy nZ!

anco, were about three-sixteenths of an inch Th# bini ig very youlJtf a nd just beginning to talk.-
long, and resembled the body of a gnat deprived a. E. M.

of legs, wings, and antenme. They had the power Painting e.n aviary-—Having just constructed an

of motion. Frequently I removed six or eight by out-door aviary, I should be ^d to know »

means of the glass tube to show my friends, AmS.

and upon returning them to the tank they peck at the dry paint. — Harold P. Cooraa.

would scuttle away to the bottom as if Birds fbr aviary.—I wish to construct a small

they were quite old hands at it. I should aviarv in my conservatory, and I should take it ^as a favour

estimate that at least there must have been two

hundred little fish hatched, and now but one an( j a ] 80 a n 8 t 0 f birds I could keep in it. I only wish to
remains, the others having died, being washed have small birds; singing ones preferred.— E. J. B.
away, or, as I strongly suspect, being eaten by - - - -———-

their unnatural parent. The whole of the above ——Tt fTl 'Vy gr*

details are from mv own oWvaUon, "g * 1 mZOUJSE?* htW took of fh. following In
at the time with the intention to send particu- BmaU m larg0 by ^ or ^ : c thor advertisements »ee
lars to this journal, to supplement some notes front page of this iaeue; catalogue free on application,
upon a similar subject which appeared in your 10 000 TUBEROUS BEGONIAS. My
second volume The incident above related

occurred m 1SS3. 1 his year 1 have had some hybridized seed, and Bure to produce many startling new

ten-spined sticklebacks, which have also built a varieties; mixed oolours, such as red,
ne“t and hatched off a ’quantity of young ones.

They, too, have all disappeared, and the male P^^AT' GERANIU^ ^ ^

built two more nests after the first batch were ningle and double varieties la cultivation, 4s.; 12

out, but did not spawn them. This male was newer, 6 s. and as. See catalogue,
black, and built his nest in the weeds about “I rt 000 PELARGONIUMS.—This is the
9 inohoa hplow the surface of the water. I have -LUjUUU very best time to purchase young plants to
g inches Delow the sunace OI ine ” “ grow on. either for early flowering next spnog or to obtain

him now in the tank, and also the female, and gnecimen* tit for exhibiting next summer. The following nre

hope to keep them through the winter. — W. J. all strong, healthy plants, in 60’s pots, or typ** 1 .*®*!

“ * V fo Hcribed in catalogue :-Twelve show and decorative varieties,

Stanton. 5s., per lOO, 35s.; six best regal varieties. 3s. 6(1; the new and

"Fresh water armarium.—Can anv reodor assist scarce regal varieties, Madame Boucbarlat, Madame Jirnic,

sS^f SSSswasf«

with a regular supply of water, and Is placed in my TTTTINTER - FLOWERING PLANTS. —The
entrance hall, where there is plenty of light, but no sun- VY following are all excellent, and should be purchased at
shine. I have on the bottom about 2 inches of sand, with once. Six Salvias, in 6 best varieties, 2s. 6d.; 6 Abutuons, m
a top laver of shingle and a good arrangement of rockwork. 6 best varieties, 2a 6d. ; 6 Heliotropes, in 3 best varieties.
Now, some time back I planted about four dozen Valisnoria, Is. 6d ; 6 S’ e S S!

but they all died and rotted away ; after that I tried some ^ 1 Tuberoses, 5s aud 7.V. 6d. dozen. Larger sizes,’ see

plants from local waters, but with the gamo result. The cat ' a j 0 L, e

gold and other fish, together with the snails, die oil, and I axttv PPPPYTTOTTW CUMBERS

am at a loss to know the cause. 1 feed the fish occasion- (3 TOY E AND GREENHOUSE yELMimiv^.
ally with beef suspended In the water, which I have been My B tock is now very
recently told to do, but this will not keep them alive ; in- easily grown such as
Tam finite at a loss to know the cause, and I am Tacsonla* AUamanda*

gold and other fish, together with the snails, die off, and I A vr n r'PPPVnYmW CUMBERS

am at a loss to know the cause. 1 feed the fish occasion- (3 TOY E AND GREENHOUSE UEIMDh,Iv^.
ally with beef suspended in the water, which I have been W My stock is now very
recently told to do, but this will not keep them alive ; in- easily grown such as
deed, I am quite at a loss to know the cause, and I am

getting quite disheartoned, so that ■fM.yonc.cnngivome P-**- *«■ «•: <““»•

gome information to enable me to remed\ all this I shall 5_ inch potg 12a . t i5s.,and 18s.

whici^’hMo b rareMly b fonow«!I doUTp^r'CnSord QHRYSANTHEMUMS.—All the heat Urge-
me the information I now wtek. Abbetamb. “SS *%£ Suh.

nnnOTnn fTt NOTICE] TO THE TRADE.

HOUSEHOLD. yy |y| QROWE

n^S^SUrirfApple® ot r LemTMf a *

iound of loaf sugar, half a pint of cold water. List of Palms, Ferns, Begonias , &c.,

Ingredients : Six ripe Apples, one Lemon, half a “ *”^‘7 7- „ , ^ • „ a-

pound of loaf sngar, half a pint of cold water. List of Palms, Ferns, Begonias , &c..

Mode: Select moderate-sized Apples, peel them, on application.

cut them in halves, remove the cores, and rub Dft j pyu MIIDQCRV UPTON

each piece over with a little Lemon. Put the KjULbYN siUlfOdl^^ III I Ulij

sugar and water together in a lined Baucepan

and let them boil until forming a thickish syrup, __ TpnTxr oieceB. lightest,

when lay in the Apples with the rmd of the V^th^oCheapest• U 2 ib„ 18s. 6 ?j 56 lb./fls. 6 d :
Lemon cut thin, and the juice of the same. Let ^ ^ gg gd.-WASSON and SCULL, 90, Lower Thames

the Apples simmer till tender, then take them str eet London, E.O. ___—--— -

out very carefully, drain them on a sieve, and TTrrAN'TED, Situation as under or single-
reduce the syrup by boiling it qrtddyfn*

mmutes. \\ hen both are cold, arrange the WANTED, near London, whose

Apples neatly on a glass dish, pour over them Q* wlfo utl ,i aT * H ke the laundry. One under fwdem-r.
1 the syrup, and garnish with stripes of candied _ cadres*, o. at Mewrc. YACRER Jc SONB, 29, FarUainent'
'citron. Smaller Applet may be done in the etrwt,^oodon,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

348

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 20 , 1884 .

LILIUM HARRISI (VaV!TO. a )

TTOOPER k CO. have now readv 10,000 FINE

-W- BULBS of tbia magnificent Lily. destined to eclipse
ii us* fulness and popularity every other Lily. It is by fur
the boat of all Lilies for winter blooming, and it is our of the
most profitable flower* that can be grown It may be had in
bloom fnnu early in Heptembcr until April in the ->rdinary
way, »ml by special culture flower* uiay be produced all the

5 ear round. This is no romance, it is u proven fact. L.

Iarriai blooms with a freedom that is perfectly astonishing,
ami will even produce a second crop of flowers from the
same bulb. One bulb produced last year 143 flowers on a
single stem ; of course this was an exception, but it illustrates
it* wonderful prolific character. Purest white, splendid form,
l° n £ lasting mid easily cultivated, this is indeed a plant to be
desired by all.

(Small Is. Oil. each 10a. 6cL doz.
Pkh e ok Bulbs. - Larger Is <><l 15s. Oil, „

(.Extra 2s. 6d. „ 24s. Od. „

Prices to the trade on application.

HOOPER & Co., Covcnt Garden, London.

B. S. WILLIAMS’

IMPROVED

Mushroom Spawn,

Per bushel of 14 cakes - 5s.

The boat in the Market.
NEVER FAILS.

VICTORIA & PARADISE NURSERIES,
UPPER HOLLOWAY, LONDON, N.

JOHN GREEN,

Floral Nurserlos, Thorpe, Norwloh.

CARNATIONS, PINKS, PICOTEES. The

following are the very liest in cultivation :—Gloire
de Nancy, finest white Clove, Is. each ; old crimson
Clove, fid. each ; old purple Clove, 6d. each ; Mrs.
Sinking, new white Pink, very fine, 6d. each ; Fim-
briaU major, very Rood, 6d. each ; Ware new Clove
Pink. 6d. each ; Red braes, the best and hardiest
l’icotee, 6d. each. The above collection for 4s.

STRAWBERRIES.— These, like many other
things, delight in a change of soil. I can supply 100
plants in four best sorts for 4s. free, or 25 of any of
the following varieties free for Is. 3dMarshal
MacMahon, V. H. de Thurv, Sir Joseph Paxton,
Crimson (^uccn, Keen's Seedling, Dr. Hogg, Presi¬
dent, and Comte de Paris.

GRAND NEW STRAWBERRY (Bothwell
Bank Prolific).—First-rate variety either for the
garden or for forcing. Have been awarded a first-
class certificate ; price per doz, 2s., 25 for 3s. 6d.

12 Primula, 2s. Od. (1 Pelargoniums (fringed), 4s. Od.

12 Cinerarias 2s. Od. 0 Geraniums, for winter, 2s. fid.

12 Fuchsias, 2s. fid. fi Hollyhocks, 2s. Od.

3 Begonias, Is. fid. fi Single Pyrethrum, 3s. Od.

INT GREEN,

Floral Nurseries, Thorpe, Norwich.

rjHEAP BULBS FOR CHRISTMAS BLOOM.

—6 W hltc Roman Hyacinths, 6 Pajier White Narcissus,
b Double Roman Narcissus, 2 root* Christmas Rose. The
lot for 3*. 60. Half the above, 2a., all free. -CASBON A SON.
Peterimro.

WINTER BLOOMING PLANTS FOR Hill

7*. GREENHOUSE 2 Xicotiuua affiniv, 1 Ahutilon,
- Cinerarias, 2 Begmiiaa, 2 Cyclanu n persicurn, 2 Primulas.
The lot. carnage paid, for 3s.; half, Is. 9d.-GA.SBON A
BON. Petcrboro. _

fjHRISTMAS ROSES.—Plant now to secure

Christmas bloom. Strong roots. 3 for 2s 6d.. free.—
CASBt IN A SON, Florists, Millficld, Petcrboro

Tj N ( LAMK N , tinest Covent Garden strain,

V ^rons bulbs, 12 for 2s 3<l. . 25s. for 4*.,

i ’ (. A SBON A HON

TjOUBLE SWEET WILLIAM, quite a

novelty Produces myriads of double rosette shaped
flowers in all variety of colour*, strong plants, for early
2ft! V\ ^ \ 25 J or 6d- free.-CAHBON A MON,

Florists, Millfield. Petcrboro.

FINEST TOBACCO CLOTH ANO PAPER

L sskibsses

Clanton. _

POULTRY WIRE NETTING7~G alvaniBed,

. .can be obtained at exceptionally low prices from
Fi*ANCla MORTON and OO. (Limited), 9, Victoria Chambers
Victoria Btreet, Westminster Price Lists on application,

LOADSTONE COLLECTION OF

i o o

HARDY FERNS

£1 is.

Carriage paid.

£1 Is.

Carriage paid.

This Is tho very best time to plant
Ferneries or Ornamental Nooks In the
Garden. The roots I offer aro large
clumps, Buro to do well, and be very
effective. Assorted in about 6 varieties.

Cheques and P.0.0, paynhls to

. LOADSTON]

(The Lady Florist),
ROMFORD, ESSEX.

FOH

OLA 88 HOUSES.

HUGHES’

GREEN SHADING.

Convenient, Inexpensive, Easily applied. Lasts all the
Bummer, and can then be easily washed off. Is., post 18.

For Fixing BloominAxalea*, MII OM rO)
Ac., andf or Cut Flowers. HU VtllBlw

FLORAL CEMENT.

A great boon to Florists and all lovers of Flowers. Dries
instantly. Bold in bottles. Is. A 2s. Per post, 3d. extra.

HUGHES’ STYPTIC

For Preventing Vines Bleeding after Pruning.

Very effectual in preventing the flow of sap in Vines being
vested. In bottles, 1/6 and 2,6. Per poet, 3d. extra.

For Destroying Beetles. Cockroaches, U||P UCC’
Crickets, Bugs, Fleas, Mosquitos, Ac. N UvliLv

TROPICAL BEETLE POWDER

Most effectual in Greenhouses,—for Animals and Bed
Clothing. Price 6d., Is. A 2s. fid. Per poet, 3d. extra.

A Treatise on FIR TREE OIL as an Insecticide, end
on the uses end application of the above prepara¬
tions aent P08T FREE, on receipt of address, by

E. GRIFFITHS HUGHES, °Z!i2iJ£ M

VICTORIA ft OATEATON STREET, MANCHESTER.

Certain Sudden DEATH

to all Grubs, Woolly Aphis. Groen and Black
Fly, Lice, Red Spider. Thrlp, Moaly Bug,
Caterpillars, Ants, Worms, &c.

FIR TREE OIL

SOLUBLE \
IN WATER/
For destroying ALL INSECTS & PARASITES

that infest Trees and Plants, whether at the Roots or on the
Foliage. It cures Mildew and Blight on Fmit or Foliage, and
a weak solution Kills all Vegetable Grubs, Turnip Fly, Ac.
Clears grapes from Mildew, or Mealy Bug without affecting
tho bloom. Thickened with a little clay, makes a good winter
dressing. Destroys Lice and Fleas on auimals and birds.
Sold by Seedsmen and Chemists, Is. 6d.. 2s. fid., and 4s. 6<L a
Bottle. Per |>ost, 3d. extra. Par gallon 12*. 6<L, or less In
larger quantities.

A Treatise on FIR TREE OIL, as an Insecti¬
cide, its application to plants and Animals,
sent Post Free on Rocclpt of address, by tho
Manufacturer,

E. GRIFFITHS HUGHES, Manchester.

Wholesale HOOPER A CO ; CORKY, SOPER, FOWLER,
and CO.; C. E. OSMAN A CO.; and from all tho London
Seed Merchants and Whole«ale Patent Medicine House*.
New York ROLKER A SONS.

INSECTICIDE (

TJ0XES! BOXES! BOXES!—Postal flower

" Boxes for sending cut flowers, cuttings, bulbs, Ac., safely
by post. Three dozen assorted size* by parcel* post for
6s. bd , or sample dozen for 2*. Also Boxes for sending game
and wedding cake; and Boxe* of all descriptions. Special
prices for large quantities -Apply, 8. TANTON A CO.,
Box Factory, Tomngton. Devon.

"RICHARD SMITH A CO. beg to anno

-Lb that they are constantly receiving applications .rum
gardeners seeking situations, and they will be nappy to supply
* r, V lady or gentleman with particular*, Ac.—Ht. John * Nur-

ies Wnmnst^p

Price Sixpence each.

TTEOETABLE LIFE and FLOWERLESS

* PLANTS, by N. Danvers; Illustrated Natural History,
written in language simple enough to be intelligible to every
child whocan read; HUGHES'S PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY,
NUMEROUS DIAGRAMS; ENTIRELY REWRITTEN,
WITH MAP < »K WORLD, 3s. fid.— Philip A Son, Publishers,
S2. Hi . K <1. and T.lvamnnl

C. FRAZER,

Horticultural Builder, Norwich.

rh roe-quarter Garden Frame, with new frei

, _ egistered)

and Corner Fastening*. Mode of be*t Red Deal, a

. Sct-ope*
si dee and

end* lj inches thick, light* 2 inches thick. Glazed with
21-oz. gloss, and painted four coat* of good oil oolour.
No. 1 size. 4 feet by 6 feet. £2 17*. No. 2 size, 8 feet by 4
feet, £4 10*. No. 3 size, 12 feet by 6 feet, £6 5e. fid. Packing
care* from 4s. to 6s. fid. Two-third* allowed when returned.

Set of 6 Handlights to cover 15 square feet, diminishing
sizes, painted 3 coats, glazed with 21-oz. glass, per set, £1 15*.

The "Universal" Handllght Protector* for kitchen garden*,
set of 6, covers 31 square feet, diminishing size*, painted 3
coats of good oil colour glazed with 21-ox. gloss per set
£212*.

Cucumber Frames, made of beet Red Deal, painted 4 coala of
g<i.xl oil colour, height at front 13 Inches, at back 24 inch*,
light* 2 inches thick, with improved bar* and glazed with
21-ox glass; iron bar across centre and handle to each licht
No. 2 size. 8 feet by 6 feet, £3 4* 6d. No. 3 sue, U f e «t by 6
feet. £4 lie fid. Case* 5«.; two-thirds allowed if returned in
good condition.,

Carriage paid to any Railway Station in England and
Wales, also to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Dublin, and Belfast.

Illustrated catalogues of Greenhouse*, Garden Frame*, Ac
post-free two penny stamp*. __' *

Hocking'* New Patent

AUTOMATIC
COKE BOILERS

Will maintain a uniform
temperature for from 12
to 15 hou rs, and of ten from
15 to 20 hour*, with one
small charge of common
go* coke of the cheapest
kind. For economy and
efficiency In combination
with cleanliness and com¬
fort these Boiler* are.
beyond the possibility of
a doubt, the greatest boon
ever offered for the pur¬
pose of heating conser¬
vatories, halls, and other
building* where littlo at¬
tention is required.

Every particular, with
testimonials, given on
application to
Franklin Hocking
& CO. (Limited), 37,
AuUmntir F'-niwmir, nmf Efisirnt. Hanover St, LiverpooL

Digitized by

ter Price List* on applic

Googu

Now Ri-ady, Fourth Edition, rr. fjvo.. 3*. fid.

A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING. By John

Hi nter, late Hon. Bee. of the British Bcekeepcni
Association.

Loudop : W. H ALLEN A Co., 13, Wgt?rloo*place.

Genuine Garden Requisites,

A S SUPPLIED TO THE ROYAL GARDENS,

the leading Gentry, and Florists of the United Kingdom,
Cocoa-nut Fibre Refuse, best only, 1*. 6d. per sack; 10 for 13s.;
15 for 18s. ; 20 for 22*. ; 30 for 30s., sacks included. Truck,
containing more than two ton*, free on rail, 33a. Selected
Brown Fibrous Peat, 5s. per sack ; 6 for 22s. fid Black Peat
4*. fid. per sack* 5 for 20s. Coarse Silver Sand. Is. fid. p«v
bushel: 14*. half ton; 25s. per ton. Yellow Fibrous Loam,
Leaf Mould, and Peat Mould, each at Is. per bushel.
Sackh and Baoh 4n. hack. Fresh Sphagnum, 8*. 6d per
sock. Manures, Garden Sticks, Labels. Virgin Cork, Hussion
Mat*. RutHa, Prepared Compost. Fertiliser, Ac. Best
TOBACCO CLOTH, 8d. per lb.; 28 lb., 18a SPEC IA LITE
Tobacco Paper, 10il. per lb. : 28 lb 21s. Prioe List on applica-
tion.-W. HERBERT A CO., 2, Hop Exchange Warehouse*,
Southwark Street. London R.K. flat* 19. New Broad 8>r—>L

GARDEN REQUISITES.

PJOCOA NUT FIBRE REFUSE, la. 3d. par

^ bag; 10 bags for 12*.; 30 for 30a.; truck load, free on
rail, 30».: Best Brown Fibrous Peat, 6s. per sack, 5 for 22*. fid.;
Block Fibrous Peat, 4s. fid. tut sack. 5 for 20s.; Coarse Silver
Sand. Is. fid. per bushel; Yellow Fibrous Loam. Leaf, and
Peat Mould, Is. per bush. Potting Compost, 1*. 4a per bash.

5*. per sock. Manures of all kinds. Garden Sticks and
Labels. Tobooco Cloth, 8d. per lb.; Hpecialite Paper. 1M. per
lb.-Write for price list. W. E WARD A CO., Union
(Chambers, Wor mwood Btreet. Lo ndon. K.O. _

GREENHOUSES FOR THE MILLION.—

vJ ALFRED PEEL A SON. Horticultural Builder*, Wood
Green, London; also Windhill, Shipley, Yorkshire. Green¬
houses complete, from 50s.; conservatory, from £5; over 3.000
of our house* erected iu all part* of the kingdom. Ulu*-
i trated catalogue, post free, three stamp*. Note name and
; address.

T C. STEVENS; HORTICULTURAL,

i U • SCIENTIFIC, and NATURAL HISTORY BALK
1 ROOMS, 38, King Btreet, Covent Garden, London. Esta¬
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on application or post free __

DAFF1A.—The very beat tying material,

-LY splendid quality, in plaited tails, large consignment at
very low Price*, ftwky. PMcd k M Xf ■ lib.. 1*.; 31b., 2s. fid ;
51b, 3s fid : 71b., 4* fid* BfcWiat quotation* by the owt. or

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Digitized by

Gck igle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

350

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 27, 1884.

no particle of clay has a particle of clay for its
next neighbour. When that is done a tho¬
roughly good workable soil is produced, which
will grow almost anything, and in which all
plants which like a rich soil grow and flower
to perfection. The third spit from the surface
should be broken up before the mixed soil is
returned to the bed. In a soil of pure London
clay as stiff as cheese, treated in this manner, I
found Roses thrive splendidly in a position ex¬
posed to the full sweep of the north and north¬
east wind. With a heavy soil the tide which
eads on to success is a thorough and complete
preparation of the soil in the first instance.
And to shirk that, or do it by halves, is to land
one’s self in continual shallows of difficulty and
failure. If that is too much trouble, the plan I
am adopting with a clay bank here may be
useful. I must state in the first instance that
my clay bank is backed by a hedge, and a ditch
that takes the drainage from 200 yards deep of
sloping pasture land; and as this ditch nas
always had wet mud in the bottom of it through¬
out this almost rainless summer, there is no danger
of the bank becoming dry. There are several wild
Briars in the hedge, and on the young shoots of
these as they rise I have budded strong-growing
Roses—Gloire de Dijon, Celine Forestier, John
Hopper, &c., &c. Fresh buds will be inserted
annually into the suckers as they rise from the
Briar roots. The clay will be peeled off the
bank to the depth of 15 inches, and light loam
from rotted turf mixed with sand and leaf-
mould substituted. In this will be planted
Narcissi, Wood Lilies, Dog’s-tooth Violets,
Primroses and Primulas, Polyanthuses, Auri¬
culas, Pansies, Anemones, and other plants
which like spring sunshine and summer shade.
The very shady places are being filled with
Ferns and Solomon’s Seal. A few Ayrshire
Roses will be planted in the more sunny spots
to run up trees and shrubs, and Tropa?olum
speciosum will also be tried. The Roses which
did well with me in an exposed bed of clay in
my last garden were The Garland, a strong¬
growing climber, producing sheetsof semi-double
white flowers; Felicity perpetue, a rampant
climber, almost evergreen; Harrison’s yellow,
a beautiful early yellow Rose ; Madame Legras,
and Madame Audot (albas), Madame Zoetmans
(damask), White Provence, common Cabbage,
Marie de Blois, Comtesse Murinais, and Julie
de Mersant (Moss and Provence) ; nearly all
were on their own roots. Roses which did well
in exposed positions in other parts of the garden
were Duke of Connaught, Fisher Holmes,
Jean Soupcrt, Duchess of Edinburgh, and
Prince Camille de Rohan.—J. D.

11940.—Lilies in the open ground.—
Tiger Lilies should not be disturbed ; they are
quite hardy, and flower best when established.
Lilium auratum is hardy, but is rather fastidious
with respect to soil and situation, thriving best
in peat, and where the young growths get some
shelter, as amongst Rhododendrons. If your
soil is fairly light, it will probably do very well,
but it is apt to disappear the second or third
year. It is the moisture at the roots which
kills it in winter, the bulbs are tender, and rot
away. A good plan is to place some ashes
over the bulbs in the form of a mound, so as to
throw off heavy rains ; or a large flower-pot,
which is better. — J. C. B.

11859.— Whit© Clematises —In reply to
a question in a recent number of Gardening
I inadvertently stated that none of the white-
flowered kinds are of robust constitution. I
should have said that none of the large-flowered
summer bloomers are so. There are two white¬
flowering kinds which are in every way
admirable, viz., Flammula and montana, the
former with small flowers, but so numerous as
to produce a good effect, and withal deliciously
fragrant; the latter flowering in spring and
creating a most pleasing effect. These will
grow anywhere, and are two of the very best
garden climbers we have. They are strong of
growth and quickly cover a large space. The
great point in planting Clematis is to well pre¬
pare the soil before doing so by deeply digging
and well manuring it, giving a good mulch of
manure and copiously watering in hot weather.
Then they make rapid progress, and become
thoroughly established in two years.—J. C.,
Byjleet.

11953.— Carnations "tiylngf.—The [most frequent
cause of this is wireviorm eattaj.- inVjtllobfcefSs. It may
alsn be caused by whl^jrngsIftnWH m 'Sjpi*Xi>rathicKea-

ing of the stem close to the surface of the ground. The
only way to save the plant in either case is to take off the
“ grass ” or root growths and put them in as cuttings,
covering them with a bell-glass. The plants should be
placed out-of-doors when they have done flowering, and
not be kept in a room.—J. D. E.

119S3.—Single Dahlias.—These bloom quite as freely
a9 double ones. Of course, as with the double varieties,
some of them bloom more freely than others, but none of
the single blooms last so long as’ the double OHes. Alba is
the best white; Lutea, yellow; Winifred, a variety
exhibited at the Crystal Palace by Messrs. Paul and Sons,
of Cheshunt, is the best mauve-tinted variety; and the
best of the scarlet or crimson colours is Gracilis superba.
—J. D. E.

-I have grown a large number of single Dahlias

this year in the suburbs of a large Lancashire town, and,
almost without exception, they have bloomed very well.
Single Dahlias produce more flowers than double ones.
Best single white : White queen, yellow Lutea grandiflora
or Canary. Mauve: Mauve Queen. Scarlet: Gracilis
elegans, Rob Roy, or Scarlet Defiance.—J. P.

11975.— Nicotiana afflnis out-of-doors.—This
plant is best treated as an annual, and it should bo sown
early in the year. Sow the seeds thinly in pots; prick
the plants out as soon as they are large enough. They
will grow to a large size and flower freely, either in pots
in a greenhouse, or planted out in the open garden. It is
not worth while to try to keep them through the winter.
The flowers do not open in the daytime ; they begin to
open towards evening and close before morning.—J. D. E.

11978.—Lily of the Valley border.— This plant
will grow in almost any kind of soil, but succeeds best in a
deep light loam, and better in a partial shade than in a
position fully erposed to the sun. It iB best to purchase
small clumps for planting. If the clumps are large plant
them 18 inches apart; small ones may be planted 15 inches.
—J. D. E.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

Privets. —These grow freely in any kind of
soil; they bear clipping well and form good
hedges, for which the best are the Italian Privet
and the oval-leaved one from Japan, especially the
last, which grows twice as fast as the Italian Privet,
and is more robust. It is also sub-evergreen, or
in mild seasons quite evergreen. It commences
to grow very early in spring, and in the neigh¬
bourhood of London is fast superseding all others
for forming hedges. When planted singly, as
bushes, Privets also form very ornamental
objects, as they flower most profusely. The
Indian Privets (Ligustrum robustum (spicatum),
pubescens, bracteolatum, vestitum, nepalense
(Wallachi) lanceolatum longifolium, and virga-
tum are all tender, and are seldom met with,
except in botanic gardens, where they are
treated as greenhouse shrubs. They are of
little use as decorative plants. The Common
Privet (Ligustrum vulgare) is so well known
that it is only necessary to state that there are
several varieties of it; the most distinct of which
are the yellow-berried, the variegated-leaved,
and the Italian or evergreen one, which retains
a portion of its leaves all winter. The Oval¬
leaved Japan Privet (L. ovalifolium) forms a
robust, upright shrub 6 feet or 8 feet high, and
retains a portion of its leaves all winter. The
latter are tolerably large, oval, somewhat
pointed, quite smooth, and of a deep shining

f reen on the upper surface ; the flowers are
orn on rather close panicles, and are
produced in July and August. Of this
there is a fine, erect-growing, golden varie¬
gated variety, which in gardens bears the
absurd name of L. californicum. This kind, as
I have said, is now common as a hedge plant
about London. Chinese Privet (L. sinense).—This
forms a tall, deciduous shrub, 8 feet or 10 feet
high, with an ample, spreading head. Its
leaves, which are much smaller than those of
the oval-leaved kind, are oblong-lanceolate,
somewhat pointed, and tomentose ; the flowers
are born in rather large, loose, terminal, villous
panicles, and are produced in great profusion in
August. Of this the L. Stauntoni is a variety,
and it bears the names of chinense, ibota, and
ibota villosum in gardens. There is a fine
variegated variety of it, the leaves of which
are edged with gold. Japan Privet (L. japoni-
cum).—This is a low-spreading, evergreen shrub,
from 3 feet to 5 feet high, with broad, oblong-
ovate, somewhat pointed leaves, grooved along
the middle on the upper surface, quite smooth,
and of a deep glossy green above; the flowers
are in rather largish, compound racemes, with
the pedicles spreading. It is the dwarfest of all
the species, and forms a very neat shrub, which
flowers in July and August. Its synonyms are
L. latifolium and L. Sieboldi. There are three
or four varieties of it, one of which has tri¬
colored leaves. Leathery - leaved Privet (L.

coriaceum).—This is a distinct Japanese kind,
with thick, glossy, dark green leaves, and quite

a dense habit of growth. It is known in gardens
under the name of L. glabrum. Shining-leaved
Privet or JVax Tree (L. lucidum).—This is an
old inhabitant of our gardens, and forms an
erect, twiggy, sub-evergreen shrub, from 10 feet
to 12 feet in height. Its leaves are rather large,
broad, and of a deep glossy green; they are
ovate-oblong, pointed, smooth in the adult state,
aDd shining. The flowers are borne in large,
spreading, thyreoid panicles and terminal. It
is a native of China, and flowers in September
and October. Of this there are tw T o varieties,
one with much larger bunches of flowers (L.
floribundum) than the type, and the other with
variegated leaves.

Ivy under trees.— This will succeed
where Grass refuses to grow, but it ought to be
kept on the ground ; although it looks well
creeping up trees and draping them with its
elegant verdure, it will ultimately prove a
deadly enemy to them. Ivy will take nosses-
sion of any tree, and in some cases if allowed
its own way will in time kill it. Now that
we know the cause of the evil, we strip the
Ivy from most trees annually, and it is sur¬
prising how those freed from it two or three
years ago have regained their health.—C.

Sweet Bays luxuriate near the sea coast
in South Hants, and it is not uncommon to
find them well covered with berries on the
approach of winter. I find old trees to be the
most prolific seed bearers. Some old stunted
specimens in this locality are quite pictures of
fruitfulness during November. Where the
Sweet Bay thrives out of doors it forms an
excellent hedge plant, its perfumed foliage
being highly ornamental at all seasons of the
year -J. G., H.

11950. — Sowing Araucaria seeds.—
These require to be sown in quite a different
way from any other kind of seed that I am ac¬
quainted with. Take shallow bases or pans,
which are better than pots, well drain them,
and fill to within half an inch of the rim with
a light well sanded compost. Into this the
seeds are to be inserted pointed end downwards,
leaving about one-third of the seed out of the
soil. Give a moderate watering and place in a
cool house, keeping the soil just moist until the
young plants appear. The reason for sowing
the seed in this peculiar manner is to avoid
rotting them, which will be almost sure to take
place if they are buried. March is the best
time to sow.—J. Cornhill, Byjleet.

11958.— Propagating shrubs.— In reply
to “Fancil,” as to the best time to strike Ivy,
Firs, and other shrubs, allow me to state that I
find the autumn months the best for propagating
nearly every kind of tree or shrub that is usually
propagated by cuttings. Ivy strikes freely at
any time of the year, but Evergreen trees and
shrubs, and most of the deciduous ones, strike
best from the partially ripened wood taken off
with a heel, or at the junction of the preceding
year’s growth. Conifer cuttings strike freely
put into pots at this date and wintered in a
cold pit or frame ; and with the lengthening
days of spring and increasing solar heat they
start into root and top growth freely ; but any
attempt to hurry them by placing them in heat
before the ends have time to heal over, or what
is termed callus, will end in failure. On the
other hand, Euonymuses of all kinds strike
best in gentle heat. In this locality, where they
are made a speciality, the beautiful variegated
kinds are inserted in boxes just like bedding
plants, and treated just the same, and they
make nice little bushes, and are planted out in
the following spring. The green-leafed kinds—
Laurustinuses, Privets, Aucubas, and similar
shrubs, if planted in October, strike freely. As
regards Ampelopsis Veitchii, and the large
leafed Virginian Creeper, they both strike freely
from cuttings of the preceding year’s growth
inserted in pots, or in a shaded border out of
doors. In all cases see that the soil is made
very firm around the base of the cuttings ; and
if under glass water freely to settle the soil well
around them, for if the cuttings get dry they
will surely never strike root.— James Groom,
Gosport.

-The easiest way to propagate evergreec

and deciduous shrubs is to take cuttings from the
matured shoots of the current years growth,
cutting them to about three joints, and inserting
them firmly in a north border. The f;oil should
if pp<fsi,bl^,bej yather| light, as if close and col-'

Sept. 27 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

351

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the roots do not form readily. Plenty of river
sand or leaf-mould, well-worked in to a depth
of 4 inches, will rectify any deficiencies in this
respect. The proper way to plant is to take out
a trench with a spade, and lay the cuttings
2 inches apart on the even surface, and so that
two-thirds of the length of the cuttings are
covered with soil, filling in level and treading
firmly. With respect to Cedars and the Fir
tribe generally, they are not propagated from
cuttings, but from seed ; but many Confers,
such ob Cupressus Lawsoniana, Thujas, &c.,
succeed at this time of year. Ampelopsis
Veitchi and the Virginian Creeper also strike
now. Deciduous shrubs should be taken when
the leaves fall.—J. C. B.

INDOOR PLANTS.

FRUIT OF CAMELLIA JAPONICA.

The fruiting of the Camellia in this country
being rather uncommon, we have taken the
opportunity of illustrating one of three sent
to us last year, thinking it may be interesting
to our readers. The fruits were from a large
plant of the single red, grown out-of-doors
against a wall with an east aspect, and pro¬
tected by a glazed coping 4 feet wide. In the
annexed woodcut the fruit is represented
natural size. Its appearance is somewhat

from the other members of the family—are
largely used in place of Orange blossom, for
which they form a by no means indifferent sub¬
stitute. To have Gardenias in tlower in winter
the plants require to be prepared by well-matur¬
ing their growth in autumn, but they should
never be allowed to become quite dormant
through want of warmth. They are easily
grown, and arc remarkably free bloomers, but
there is one point in their cultivation that
demands special notice, and that is that where
required to be grown in anything approaching
a condition that will fully exemplify their
flowering capabilities, they must be kept free
from the attack of insects, such as mealy bug, a
pest with which they are favourites, and which,
if once allowed to obtain a footing, will give an
unlimited amount of trouble.

Propagation. —This operation is easy if
cuttings from half or fully ripened shoots are
made in March, at which time they can be had
in that condition from plants that have been
kept in a brisk heat through the winter for
early flowering ; insert them singly in small
{>ots drained and half filled with a mixture of
equal parts of peat and sand, finishing off with
fine sand and covering with a propagating
glass. If placed in a temperature of TO degs.
and kept moist they will root in a few weeks,
when the glass may be removed. In May move
i them into 3-inch or 4-inch pots. They will
'grow in either peat or loam, but the former,

Fruit of Camellia japonica.

singular. It is very hard and has a glazed
appearance like that of porcelain. The colour
is pale green, except on the exposed aide, which
is dull red. It is furrowed like a Tomato, and
on the day after we received it the furrows
opened and exposed three or four large
mahogany brown seeds embedded in hard pulp.

HOW TO GROW GARDENIAS.

Few plants are such general favourites as Gar¬
denias, and few have so many properties calcu¬
lated to render them generally useiul. Consider¬
able numl>ers of them come from China, the
East and West Indies, South America, and one
or two from Sierra Leone, of which the singular
G. Stan ley ana, so very unlike the generality of
the other species, is a noteworthy example.
With one or two exceptions, they are all ever¬
green shrubs, mostly possessing a dense, com¬
pact habit of growth. The species held in high
estimation are comparatively few, but these few
are deservedly prized for their exquisite fra¬
grance, and for the freedom with which their
blossoms are produced during a considerable
portion of the year, especially in the spring,
when sweet-scented flowers are scarce. They
are also particularly well adapted for bouquets
and the decoration of vases on account of their
soft milky-white colour |nd\greeable,^lfu^ie.
The unopened buds and fcwty fexfr \n lijjffqjrers
of G, citriodoro—quite disunct in n^pbarance

where it can be had of a fibrous character, is
best. If peat of a heavy, close description
only is obtainable, it is better to grow them in
turfy loam ; break the fibrous parts up into
small pieces, and add one-sixth of rotten
mauure and as much Band as will keep the
whole porous; in all Btages of their existence
this is necessary, as they require a plentiful
Bupply of water when growing freely. Pot
them firmly, and place them where they will
receive plenty of light in a temperature of
TO degs. by night, allowing 10 degrees more
in the daytime. Give air as required in
the early part of the day, and shade from
| the sun during bright weather. Close early
in the afternoon, and syringe well overhead.
As the shoots extend pinch out the joints of the
strongest, so as to cause them to break back.
They will then grow rapidly and make roots
fast. By the end of June the stronger growers
will have filled their pots, and should be at once
moved into others *2 inches or 3 inches larger.
The treatment just given will apply to all
the varieties hereafter recommended to be
grown, except the small G. citriodora, for
which 4-inch or 5-inch pots will be sufficient the
first season. Let the soil now used be somewhat
more lumpy, and add to it a proportion of
rotten manure and sand similar to that pre¬
viously employed.

Watering and potting.—D o not givec^uiteso
much water to the roots after potting until they

have fairly got hold of the new Boil. Pinch out
the points of all the strongest shoots, and tie
them down in a horizontal position, which will
induce them to break back as well as push
additional growth from the points ; continue
the treatment as already recommended, closing
the house in the afternoons through July ami
August, so as to cause the temperature to rise
for a couple of hours to IK) degs., and givo
liquid manure every other time they are watered.
Managed thus, they will grow both vigorously
and rapidly. At the beginning of September
the temperature may be reduced a few
degrees both by day and night; they may also
have more air, shade being only needed in the
middle of the day when the weather is very clear.
None of the species require much support, but
during the latter part of the summer it will be
found advisable to apply a few sticks, so as to
open out the shoots a little—treatment which
w ill most assist them in ripening the wood and
in inducing the formation of flower-buds; re¬
duce the heat as the power of the sun deolines,
and for the two concluding mouths of the year
they may be kept in a night temperature of 55
degs. with 10 degs. more warmth during the
day ; this will Btop them from making much
progress.

Forcing. —If required in flower early, a
portion of the plants must be placed at the
commencement of the year in a night tempera¬
ture of 65 degs., with an increase of 50 degs. in
the daytime, keeping them near the glass and
the soil moderately moist; this will Boon induce
the bloom-buds to Bwell, and they will then
open in succession, those on the strongest
leading shoots being the first. In cutting the
flowers, no more of the wood than can be
avoided should be taken, as generally from both
sides of the bloom-buds they will push growth,
which will set and produce a second crop of
flowers. The same plants will keep on opening
a succession of flowers for a considerable time,
but others should be brought in at intervals to
keep up the supply. Such as wanted to bloom
later on in the spring must be kept at a tempera¬
ture similar to that recommended for the end
of the year until the days begin to lengthen
in March. They may then be placed where
they will receive an increase of heat similar
to that suggested for the early flowering por¬
tion. As they go out of bloom, both those
that flowered early and those that bloomed
latest ought to be well cut back, and if they
have any insects upon them they should, when
thus denuded of soft growth, be thoroughly
washed with or dipped in some insecticido
strong enough to kill both the full-grown insects
and their eggs. This washing may with advan¬
tage be repeated two or three times in the course
of a fortnight before they have commenced
to make fresh growths, and they should be kept
in a temperature sufficiently high to push them
on. As soon as they have broken freely turn
them out of their pots and remove as much soil
from the balls as can be taken away without
destroying many roots. Give a 4-inch or 0-inch
shift, according to the size required, increasing
the temperature as ttio season advances, shading
when needful, and giving air and syringing
daily as in the preceding summer. When the
pots get filled with roots manure water must bo
liberally supplied, and any shoots that take an
undue lead should be shortened. They wrill not
require stopping this season, as they are
naturally of a bushy habit, and if the shoots
are kept tied out they will generally break of
their own accord as well as push up numbers of
strong growths from the bottom. In tho
autumn, as before, keep them drier and discon¬
tinue both the use of the syringe and shading,
giving more air and less heat, and wintering as
previously advised. After flowering they may
again be cut back, the soil partially removed,
and new’ material substituted, using larger pots ;
if smaller plants are considered preferable, the
old ones may be destroyed, and others of less size
selected; but to accomplish this fresh stock
should be struck each year and grown on as
already recommended.

Varieties. —The following kinds are all good,
and well deserve attention, viz. : G. intermedia.
—For ordinary purposes this may be considered
the best of all Gardenias. The flowers when
led are iriilW Whitts/ 8 idrtiing yellow as

first opened

I a free

growi

-A varied fcrtfciDl (flH which

352

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 27, 1884.

the leaves are prettily marked ; flowers the
same as those of the green sort. G. Fortunei.
—A strong-growing kind from China, the
flowers of which are proportionately larger than
those of the above. G. radieans.—Alow-grow¬
ing, compact kind with small leaves, and bearing
very pretty, highly-perfumed flowers, white
when first open, but turning pale yellow as they
get older ; a native of China. G. radieans
major.—A larger and stronger growing variety
than the preceding. G. citriodora.—A dwarf-
growing plant, with much smaller flowers than
any of the above; a desirable sort for either
large or small collections ; a native of Natal.
G. Stanleyana.—A remarkable plant, very dis¬
tinct from all others. It attains a considerable
size, and the branches assume a flat, horizontal
position. Its singular-shaped, white, purple-
spotted flowers are produced on the upper sides
of the shoots, and stand above the leaves. Any¬
one requiring a very distinct flowering plant,
differing from anything else in general cultiva¬
tion, will not be disappointed with this. From
Sierra Leone. G. florida.—A pretty kind with
medium-sized white flowers, very sweet-
scented; Japan.

Insects. —As regards insects, Gardenias are
particularly subject to the attacks of scale and
mealy bug, which must be diligently sought for
during the growing season and destroyed by
sponge and brush, and also by washing with
insecticides, which, however, it is not safe to
use after the flower-buds are formed. If thrips
or aphides make their appearance they are best
destroyed by fumigation. Red spider is rarely
troublesome, the continued syringing needed
during the growing season generally keeping it
in check. T. B.

MAIDEN-HAIR FERNS.

We devote a considerable amount of house
space to Fern culture, but fully half of this is
occupied by the Maiden-hair or Adiantum
cuneatum, than which there is no more gene-
ally serviceable plant in cultivation. Ours are
required for conservatories and rooms, and also
for grouping with plants elsewhere ; while in a
cut state the fronds are indispensable for vases,
wreaths, bouquets, and dinner-table decoration.
I find that when mixed with ordinary green¬
house and conservatory plants they must be
grown under precisely the same conditions as
these are, as if removed from a heated, moist
atmosphere to a colder one they soon collapse.
Grown in a cool, airy house, with little or no
shade, the fronds are much smaller than when
otherwise treated ; and, indeed, unless extra
quantities of liquid manure as well as abund¬
ance of moisture be given at the roots, they soon
become positively shabby. In any case they
assert their deciduous character, and about this
time gradually present a faded appearance.
Another characteristic of these hardy-grown
plants is the fact of their requiring to be more
frequently

Repotted than those grown under different
conditions. The pots soon become literally
crowded with roots, the soil being apparently
all absorbed. Ours are principally in 5-inch
pots, and every spring, or when growth is com¬
mencing, they have either their ball of roots
roughly reduced and repotted in the same-sized
pot, or the plant is split in two, the balls of
roots rounded off, and then each half is given
either a 4-inch or 5-inch pot. The compost
employed consists of three parts turfy loam to
one part of leaf soil, with sand and charcoal
freely added. About the middle of September
a certain number of these coolly grown plants
have their balls of roots rather roughly loosened
and put into 8-inch pots, and they are then
transferred to a forcing house. From these,
during the months of November, December, and
January, we cut great quantities of large,
beautiful green fronds, which, if not durable,
last as long as we particularly wish them to do,
viz., for about three hours on the dining-table.
Strange to say, these young and very succulent
fronds do not curl up when laid on the cloth
without water so quickly as fully-matured
fronds cut from large specimens growing in the
mixed fernery do. We use large quantities of
Adiantum cuneatum on the dinner-table, these
being generally seedlings either one year old
and in 2£-inch pots, or two years old in
5-inch pots. Tjey qr‘fl| ktpfliL "heat, are
constantly green growing, 1 ^besides being

more light and elegant than the majority of
plants resulting from division.

We do not coniine our attention exclusively
to Adiantum cuneatum, as we find A. gracilli-
mum and A. mundulum to succeod admirably
under cool treatment, and both are serviceable
—the former for mixing with flowering plants or
in a cut state for vases and bouquets, and A.
mundulum for furnishing much the best fronds
for button-hole bouquets. A. concinnum laetum
is also amenable to cool treatment, the young
fronds being especially attractive in colour.
The best substitute for A. cuneatum in a green¬
house during the winter months is A. Capillus-
veneris, of which the most valuable form is
mauritzianum. These are half hardy, and in
pots spread and form fronds throughout the
winter. They are surface rooting and rhizo-
matus, and need not be often disturbed. Ours
are growing in well-drained 4-inch and 5-inch
pots and wc attach much value to them. While
agreeing with several correspondents that for
many purposes the Maiden hair Fern is best

f rown in a comparatively exposed cool position,
still greatly prefer the general appearance of
those growing in heat and in a somewhat
shaded position. Even the half-hardy A.
Capillus-veneris section is improved in appear¬
ance if grown in gentle heat. I. M.

Double white Primula for cutting.—
This is one of the few things with which it
would appear difficult to glut the flower market,
probably because it is almost indispensable in a
cut state for some kinds of floral decorations,
and because it is not so easy of culture as are the
generality of those plants which are grown for
the supply of cut bloom for Covent Garden.
Few plants, however, give such a rich reward
for really good culture as this. I can well recol¬
lect the wonderful amount of bloom which some
large specimens once furnished, and which were
grown for the supply of a large trade establish¬
ment. The person who had charge of them was
one of the best hard-wooded propagators of the
day, and was espedally skilful m the propaga¬
tion and culture of double Chinese Primroses,
and it is probable that but few could have main¬
tained such large plants in nerfect health for so
long a period. When I first made their ac¬
quaintance they were in 12-inch pots, and they
remained in them for at least four years without
showing any signs of diminished vigour. They
were annually top-dressed with some of the best
fibrous peat procurable, and beyond the usual
routine of daily care this was all the attention
they received. They stood in the hard-wooded
propagating house on inverted flower-pots near
the glass, and had through the winter a constant
temperature of about 55 degs. Undoubtedly
muen of the success obtained was due to extreme
care in watering ; the head propagator himself
always attended to them in this matter, and
pieces of crock were thickly laid over the surface
soil, so that it should not be disturbed in water¬
ing. Costly bouquets being often made, there
was a steady demand for double Primulas, and
I can safely affirm that throughout the year
these plants never failed to yield bloom. In the
summer time, of course, there was not so much,
but the amount they yielded all through the
winter was very great. Still, I would not advise
any one growing for profit to employ such large
plants for cut bloom ; they are not so manageable
as smaller ones, and when once a mistake is
made in watering they take a long time to
recover. The pot commonly used by one of our
best market growers is a 5-inch one, and this
may be taken to be the best size, as it contains
soil enough to allow of a good development.
When under good culture the pots will become
well filled with roots—a most important point
in the case of plants which are so tender rooted
as to render them very susceptible to injury from
injudicious watering. To ensure a good supply of
bloom all through the winter and early spring,
it is customary to have two sets of plants, one of
which is started in warmth about October, the
other being kept cool until about January.
This is, of course, where it is in the grower’s
interest to maintain a supply during that time,
otherwise it is better to get as much bloom
as possible just when flowers are scarcest. —
C. B. B.

Schizanthus pinnatus.— Those who grow
this for flowering in pots in spring should put
it into the pots in which it is to flower some

time in November ; 7-inch pots are largeenough
to produce specimens from 2 feet to 3 feet high.
It is best to pot a few more than the quantity
wanted, and in March select those with the
dwarfest and most compact habit. If kept in a
light, airy house where fire-heat is only used to
keep out frost, they will make better plants than
those grown in a warmer temperature.—J. C. C.

Salvia Pitcheri. —This is a most useful
plant for autumn flowering in the conservatory,
as the colour, an intense dark blue, is different
from that of any plant in flower at the same time,
and it is so easily grown that any one having a
greenhouse may manage it. After my plants go
out of flower, early in November, the stems are
cut down and the pots set on the floor of a cool
Peach house. In April they are shaken out of the
old soil and repotted in fresh material; they are
then placed under the shelter of a south wall. In
summer they are associated with the Chrysanthe¬
mums, where they remain until the end of Sep¬
tember, when they commence to flower. The
onlv fault this Salvia ha8 is its somewhat weak,
lanky flower stems, which do not submit to
pinching or training so well as those of some
plants. When unchecked and supported by &
few sticks they will grow to a height of 4 feet,
and then produce spikes of flower from 6 inches
to 9 inches long, which in October are most
valuable either on the plants or in the shape of
cut flowers. The plant being herbaceous in
character is easily increased by division, or it
may be raised from cuttings made of the young
growths in spring.—C. B.

Persian Cyclamens in winter.— Many
fail to flower Persian Cyclamens in midwinter
through placing the plants in too low a tem¬
perature and in deficient light. After the be¬
ginning of November the house in which they
are growing should be maintained at from
50 deg8. to 54 degs. during the day-time and from
45 degs. to 50 degs. at night. They also require
all the light which it is possible to give them.

A shelf near the glass is the best place for them,
and before being put on it it should be covered
with a layer of Cocoa fibre or Moss, which will
lessen the supply of water to be given to the
roots. Next to a suitable temperature, a judi¬
cious system of ventilation is most important,
as if cold currents of air are admitted they will
not only check growth, but cause the youngest
leaves to curl. Front ventilation should only be
resorted to when the air is mild. In winter the
brightest weather is often that which is most
treacherous, as it is generally accompanied by a
cold air, hurtful to all tender plants under glass
if admitted both by back and front ventilators
at the Bame time. Watering must also be done
with caution, as about half the quantity will
s uffice for November and the three succeeding
months that will be needed in bright weather
during March and April. A gentle stimu¬
lant in the way of weak doses of liquid manure
or soot water is very helpful if given regularly
as often as the plants require water, but any¬
thing more exciting should be withheld until
daylight has increased. Concentrated manures
are too powerful to be used with the best results
during the dark days of winter, and at no time
have I found these plants to be very much
benefited by their use; where, however, they
are thought to be beneficial, the middle of
February will be early enough to commence
using them, and then the quantity given must
be small compared with what such plants as
Pelargoniums will bear.—C. C.

Early forcing.— One of the most impor¬
tant requirements in early forcing is a suitable
structure, without which it would be folly to
expect even moderate success. I believe, for
the very earliest work, that a house three-
quarters span, 20 feet or more wide, with long
side facing due south, or even south-east by
south at an angle of not less than 30 degs. or
more than 35 degs., while the back part may be
at a convenient angle conforming with the width,
is the best. A maximum of light is another
important feature, and whatr we wont is “ more
glass and less wood ”—the larger the squares
and smaller the laps the better. I am convinced
that half the greenhouses used for growing
winter flowers have four times more woodwork
on the roof than is necessary. The ventilation
should be of the mosi perfect description, and
30 constructed as to admit air ever.ly all over
the house, and not in gusts. As to shading,
it is necessai-y for the best rosttltfc, especially so

Digitized by

Gck igle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

854

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 2?, 1884.

them potted into 3-inch ones. Place them in a
frame quite close to the glass, anddraw thelightoff
them both day and night, when the weather is
favourable, as the heavy dews on calm nights
arc beneficial to them.

Shrubbery.

The month of October is an excellent time to
commence the re-arrangement of shrubs, a work
which becomes periodically necessary in conse¬
quence of some varieties overgrowing others,
over-crowding, losses, and other causes. Care
and judgment must be exercised in order that
a natural arrangement may be maintained,
mixing the various kinds of foliage harmoniously,
and having special regard to the different heights
the shrubs are likely to attain. Should we be
fortunate enough to have fairly dry weather
during October and the early part of November,
the soil will work very much better than later on
in the year ; nor are we likely to have very hard
frosts during that period. If ordinary care be
exercised not to injure the roots, and the shrubs
are planted immediately after being taken up,
they will in no way suffer from the effects of
transplanting. New subjects may be added as
required at the same time. Advantage of the
season should also be taken to commence pre¬
parations where it is intended to form new
plantations; the sites for these should be
trenched not less than 3 feet deep, taking care
that the bottom of each trench is well broken
up. By so doing, great benefit will result to
trees and shrubs ; it assists drainage and allows
the roots to descend freely ; generally, however,
the sites for plantations are more or less raised
by carting soil upon them, in which case deep
trenching is unnecessary. The surface should
always be broken up before placing the soil
thereon. Where the soil is very poor, manure
should be trenched in or mixed with the soil;
the manure must not be buried too deeply,
6 inches beneath the surface being quite suffi¬
cient, as it should be borne in mind that the
benefit is derived from its gradual decay, the
soluble portions being carried down by rains to
the roots in a condition most suitable for its
absorption, whilst it maintains the surface in an
open and healthy state.

Walks. —Relaying edgings and making walks
may now be pushed forward, and in doing this
it is well to remember that while all needless
walks should be studiously avoided, those really
necessary can hardly be too well made, for if
well drained and prepared at first they will be a
source of comfort and convenience for years,
while if half made at first they will prove a
constant source of annoyance. Where the
extent of walks is large, the best plan is to
take a certain quantity in hand each season, and
put them in thoroughly good order. A walk
made with a good thickness of brick rubbish at
the bottom, then coarse gravel or broken stone,
and, lastly, fine gravel firmly rolled down,
covering with shell gravel or Derbyshire spar,
is always firm, yet soft to the tread, and does
not allow weeds to grow or become green with
Moss and Lichens in anything like the time in
which walks hastily constructed do.

Lawns, &c. —Grass seeds should be sown at
once on bare places or where the sward is thin
and poor, choosing dry weather for the work ;
the quantity sown may be from 1 bushel to
2 bushels per acre ; in the case of bare places the
surface should be broken up about 1 inch deep,
adding soil if necessary ; where the Grass is weak
a dressing of rich soil will be very beneficial.
After the seed is sown the surface should be
thoroughly bush-harrowed and finally rolled.
A dressing of soot, salt, and lime during the
month will greatly assist in destroying injurious
insects and act as a fertiliser. This work will
be especially necessary upon cricket and
croquet grounds which have been much used
during the season. Where very large spaces
have become bare, turfing is the most desirable
and expeditious method of dealing with them.
The advantage gained by doing this work at the
present time is that, should we experience a
favourable winter, the Grass will be stronger
imd therefore resist wear in a greater degree
than if done in the spring ; during the operation
Grass plots should also be freed of weeds as
far as possible.

Fruit.

Planting fruit TiReSm.—T h« nlanliog of fruit
treet and bushes m||y |l£A'« W^cbpunenced.
Apricots, Peaches, snaNectarigV, u moved

with care now, will fruit abundantly next season ;
a suitable mixture of soil in which to plant
them was mentioned in a former calendar.
Apricots in most gardens grow so rampantly
that a biennial disturbance of their roots is
a necessity ; our plan of doing this is to dig out
with forks a trench from 4 feet to 0 feet—accord¬
ing to the size of the trees—from their stems. All
the large woody roots are severed at this dis¬
tance, the smaller rootlets being carefully
preserved and afterwards replaced as the trench
is filled in with fresh soil, or in any case with a
goodly addition of fresh maiden loam inter¬
mixed with the old material; this is well con¬
solidated, and the entire border mulched with a
small layer of stable litter. As a rule, Apricots
thus treated every second or third year seldom
canker or fail to fruit profusely, except when the
foliage remains on the trees till Christmas, and
there is no sunshine to aid the ripening of flower-
buds ; strong-growing trees of Peaches and
Nectarines may be served in exactly the same
way with advantage, and the present is the
most suitable time for performing the operation,
and also for planting nearly all kinds of hardy
fruits, which, when spring planted, are liable to
injury from drought, but even if they escape
this their fruiting power is of a very proble¬
matical character in comparison with that of
autumn-planted trees.

Orchards. —When orchards are being formed,
first let the ground be well drained, and then
trench it as deeply as the nature of the sub-soil
will allow ; no manure will be necessary except
in soils of the very poorest description, and even
then it is preferable to apply it as a surface
dressing. In planting, the trees should be in
lines, and be given room in proportion to the
form they are to be made to assume. For
instance, trees that are to be trained in bush or
pyramidal form, commencing from the ground
line, and that are to be kept in that form by
restricted growth, may be planted from 9 feet to
12 feet apart only ; but if they are to be left to
take care of themselves, then plant standards at
from 30 feet to 36 feet apart, and the intervening
space, till the trees overshadow them, may be
planted with Currants and Gooseberries, both of
which do well with partial shade, as is proved by
the general adoption of the system by market
growers. New plantations, or the re-arrange¬
ment of existing plots of bush fruits, ought to
receive attention this month, but pruning may
be deferred till the new year.

Surface dressing fruit treks. —As soon as
the fruit is gathered, all trees that have borne
heavy crops, or that seem weak from exhaustion,
should have the surface soil cleared away from
about the roots and replaced with fresh compost,
consisting of loam, with a slight proportion of
lime scraps and charcoal intermixed, the whole
to be made firm about the roots, and then
mulched with good Btable yard manure. If such
| dressings could be given to free bearing fruit
trees every autumn, we should have little cause
to complain either of size or quantity of fruit;
this at least is our experience, for on trees that
have been regularly dressed we have never yet
failed as regards having plenty of fine fruit.

Root pruning. —This month is the best time
to root-prune all trees that require a repression
of growth, in order to make them more fruitful.
Young trees that have not been planted more
than three years had best be lifted entirely ;
their strong shoots should be shortened back,
and any that have been injured by digging them
out should be cut clean off. The trees should
then be replanted in the same soil. Large or
older trees may have their roots bared, a trench
cut out a few feet from the stem, and all the
roots met with in the trench cleanly cut off,
after which refill the trench, ramming the soil
as firmly as possible, thus causing a certain
amount of resistance to be encountered by the
roots, which will conduce to the formation of
numerous small branching rootlets that are of
much more importance than strong non-lateral
roots.

Vegetables.

Proceed on all occasions when dry to earth
up Celery and Leeks, planting vacant ground
with Cabbage and Lettuce. Lifting Potatoes
will be the order of the day if this fine weather
lasts. Kitchen garden walks should now be
thoroughly cleaned for the winter. Hoeing
between autumn-sown Spinach, young beds of
late Cabbage and Lettuce, will not only kill the
weeds, but benefit the plants.

Tomatoes. —Any fruit of Tomatoes in the
open air that has begun to colour should now
be gathered and placed on a dry shelf near the
glass in a greenhouse or window, w T here it will
be exposed to the full influence of the sun, and
will 8oou ripen and be fit for use ; the quality of
Tomatoes is better when they are fully ripened
on the plant; but after this time it is not safe to
leave them out on account of danger from frost.
The plants may be allowed to remain longer if
they have yet a considerable quantity of growing
fruit upon them ; for, although they do not
grow so fast after this time, yet, if the w T eather
keeps fine, they will get to a useful size. A
mat may be hung over them at night if danger
from a low temperature is apprehended. When
they have ceased to make further progress pull
the plants up by the roots and hang them up by
the roots in a greenhouse or empty vinery,
where the fruit will ripen. When so treated
they should not be tied up in large bunches,
or the leaves will turn damp and mouldy,
which will prevent the fruit becoming fit for
use.

Beet should now be taken up, as it is much
more impatient of frost than most things ; the
roots will be all the better if laid in an open
shed for a few days, until the soil adhering to
them has got quite dry, after which they may
be stored under cover in moderately dry ashes
out of the reach of frost.

Herbs. —If sufficient herbs were not cut for
drying earlier in the season more should be
secured before the approach of cold autumn
weather ; this more particularly refers to Sage
and Thyme. Lay them loosely where they will
be fully exposed to light and air until quite diy.
Parsley should also now be gathered and simi¬
larly treated ; it ought to be dried quickly or it
will spoil. If it can be placed near a warm flue
this will answer well. A good supply Bhould
always be thus provided, as, for many purposes,
it can be used in place of fresh material in
seveie winters.

Vegetable Refuse.— In all gardens at the
present time there is a great deal of vegetable
refuse being formed which may either be allowed
to go to waste, or be converted into valuable
manure. Of the materials which come under
this heading, tree leaves are amongst the raoBt
bulky and valuable. They are falling fast now,
and it is only at this time that they can be col¬
lected to make manure. In collecting them in
parks and pleasure grounds, they are sometimes
thrown here, there, or anywhere so long as they
are out of sight, and when deposited in this way
they ultimately form small heaps of decayed
matter which may be lifted and used for some
purposes in spring, but this kind of material is
never good manure, and cannot compete with
specially prepared refuse. As the leaves are
gathered they should all be carried, wheeled, or
carted to that part of the garden set apart for
manure heaps, and this should be a general
receptable for them throughout the autumn.

At the same time all old Pea straw, decayed
leaves, and all kinds of Cabbage and Cauli¬
flower stumps from which the heads have been
cut should bo brought from the kitchen garden
and thrown into a heap close to the leaves.
Light stable manure should also be brought
here, and everything else in the way of refuse.
The whole should then be mixed up in one Iar£®
heap to decay. As there may be a good deal
of matter which would not readily decay, it« a
good plan as soon as the heap has been made up,
to begin making the top of it a receptacle for all
kinds of slops and soap-suds from the house.
This will enrich the leaves and induce
position. In about a month the whole sbou
be turned over, keeping the loosest of tne
material to the bottom and the most decayed, on
the top. By January, or throughout the spring,
this will make one of the finest heaps of manu
anyone could desire for digging or trenching
into vegetable quarters or dressing flower oe .

All the year round it is a good plan ma ®
point of emptying all kinds of vegetable retu
in a heap by itself, and it is surprising how
valuable it will be found in the course of t
Weeds or any refuse containing a quantity
seed which would germinate in foe g rou
where not wanted should never be mixed up wi
anything useful; but, with the exception
weeds, stones, and wood, there Is hardly y
kind of refuse about a garden which canno
converted ante manure.—C,

Sept. 2 ?, 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

355

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St*

CLIMBING AND TWINING PLANTS.

Few things add more to the beauty of a garden
than climbing plants if judiciously used ; their
services in hiding unsightly objects and clothing
walls are generally acknowledged, but only in a
very few gardens is their intrinsic and varied
beauty properly recognised. When they have
been used it has been too often as
adjuncts to some tasteless gimcrack
in the form of a summer-house,
arbour, or ornamental arch, and
trained in such a wav as to hide or
destroy their natural habit. Only
amidst the rustic surroundings of
the cottage garden can climbei
usually be seen at their best.

Climbing plants generally depend
for their support upon other plants,
availing themselves of their assist
ance in various ways, and many of
them refuse to grow with any
vigour unless support is placed
within their reach. The most
striking approach to consciousness
visible in plants is the way in which
climbers will send out strong shoots
towards any support placed within
their reach, as if aware of its
existence and position. Equally
interesting are the various ways
in which climbing plants sup¬
port themselves by tendrils,
by hooked thorns, by twining
stems, by twining leaf-stalks,
by rootlets, and by sucker¬
like feet. The beauty of

introduces a different class of curves and new
forms of beauty, resulting in many instances in
wreaths and festoons of flowers, which are not
only beautiful in themselves, but gain in beauty
by contrast with the stronger and straighter
forms of other plants.

One of the prettiest and most natural ways of
UBing climbers is to allow them to trail over and

support within its reach, or it will trail over turf
or rockery. It is a capital plant for any odd
sunny comer, ahd a good thing to shade spring
flowers from the summer sun. It forms a large
mass of root underground and does not encroach
upon other things. Lathyrus Drummondii has
the same character with brighter and larger
flowers. These everlasting Peas are very effec¬
tive when trained over ever¬
green shrubs. Lathyrus
grandiflorus greatly resem¬
bles a Sweet Pea, but the
blooms are larger. It pro¬
duces no seed, and propa¬
gates itself by root suckers.
It forms a beautiful covering
for a low fence, but as it
flowers in May and June,
and assumes a shabby ap¬
pearance after flowering, it
should be planted behind
Dahlias or Sunflowers, which
will hide it. It is easily kept
within bounds as its suckers
are very easy to kill. Lathy¬
rus odoratus (the Sweet Pea)
is a well-known annual, but
it is not so well known that,
being very hardy, it can be
sown in the autumn in the
south, and is well worth a
little protection in the north.
If sown in the autumn, and
prevented from ripening seed
while in flower, it will flower
almost the summer through,
and is a very different thing
so treated from the plants
usually seen. The prettiest
way of growing it is up
sheaves of low stakes about
5 feet high ; the tops of the
shoots then bend over and
bloom profusely. Each colour
should be kept distinct.

Tropjsolums are very use¬
ful for autumn bloom, and
can be used for a variety of
purposes. As the annual
varieties do well in a rather
rMi.lile amonght poor soil, they can be planted to trail over
bhiuhsssiu h state shrubs, and they may also be trained over

of nature. Every
one who has walked
much in the country
must have been charmed
with the beauty of our
native climbers. The fra¬
grant Honeysuckle running
up through hedge or coppice,
and tossing its beautiful and
fragrant blooms higher than
all; the long trailing sprays
of Dog-Rose, or white Rose,
studded with flowers or scar¬
let hips ; the twining Bind¬
weed, Btudding the hedges
with its white trumpets; the
Virgin bower, with its lonj

trellises. They are not suitable for poles, as they
do not twine, but attach themselves by twisting
their leaf-stalks round points of support; any
support should, therefore, be broad, so as to
allow the plants to cover some breadth. The
Lobbianum varieties are a great improvement on
the old Nasturtiums, but seed can only be had
from the very best seedsmen. Tropieolum
canaricnse, the well-known Canary Creeper, re¬
quires a rich soil and good cultivation ; it will
then run up 10 feet or bo, and produce a mass
of bloom. Tropxolum speciosum is a perennial
tuberous-rooted species, very like the Canary
Creeper, but with larger and scarlet flowers and
dark green leaves. It does well in the north,
but it seems difficult to establish in the south of
England. It should be tried in cool positions

A mixture of climbing plants.

lowing plants is in a great measure depen- annuals, or can be cut down in autumn,
dent upon the springing lines of growth seen creosoted for a foot or two at the bottom these

dent upon the springing lines of growth seen
in a simple and conspicuous form in Ferns
&nd Palms. These are the Leading lines, and
are contrasted by the forms of the leaves and
flowers. The growing lines
not spring from the root
expression of growth, bt
the points where the stems aro support©*

Virgin bower, with its long i^ngiand. It should be tried in cool positions
trailing sprays of beautiful to negin with, such as on the north side of
leaves and wax-like flowers; shrubberies. Nothing can be more beautiful
and the two Brionies with than its long slender wreaths of leaves and
their scarlet berries in long flowers hanging about Ivy or evergreens,
festoons. This natural me TiiKCo.NVOLvrLUSFAMiLYbeingtwinersrequire
thod of grow ing climbers is supports similar to those of runner Beans. They
look w’ell running up groups of poles. The
annual kinds are the most useful. Some of the
perennial varieties propagate themselves so
freely at the root as to become a nuisance.
Calystegia pubescens is a beautiful lavender
blush double kind which is worthy of a place in
every garden. Care should be taken in purchas¬
ing this to get rooted and established plants.
The Seammony (Convolvulus Scammonia) is a
good old-fashioned kind. The Bindweeds do
well in town gardens.

__^ This Clematises are useful climbers. Our

poles like hop-Voles, do well native C. Vitalba is a useful plant for towns,
for such climbers as are dying down generally in winter. C. Flammula
If is similar but not nearly so strong in growth.
It produces a profusion of small white flowers
from July onwards, and is sweet-scented ; it suits
w’ell for a low fence. Clematis montana grandi-
flora is & useful white kind producing a profusion
of flowers in May and Jane. Clematis Jackmanni
and thoao of tire Yiticella type flower , on tire
shoots of the year and can oe Cut down in
November. in sliad-

growing
most suitable to old gardens
w here the shrubs are well
grown, or even past their
best; amongst these fine
effects may be got by plant¬
ing climbers to trail over
them. In new gardens the
best way of growing the
twining and tendril-form¬
ing climbers is to arrange
rustic supports for them.
Sheafs, or pyramids of

will last for a number of years. Rustic arches
made of gnarled and twisted branches from
4 to G inches thick make good and unobtrusive
supports for such climbers as make perennial
wood. Of climbers which die down in winter
The Lathyrus family are amongst the most
useful. Lathyrus lutifolius will climb and

356

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 27, 1884.

ing spring flowers. Lanuginosa varieties flower
earlier than these and are notable for their very
large flowers.

The Honeysuckles are valuable climbers. Our
native kind is the most useful; it is best when
allowed to assume its native habit and ramble
among shrubs. In shady places the flowers are
larger and almost white, in the sun the unopened
flowers are crimson. The white Dutch is a
pretty early variety, flowering very profusely.
A trellis for these should be rather thick, as they
are better for the lower parts of the stems being
shaded. The Japanese Honeysuckles belong to
an allied species. The well-known Golden-
netted Honeysuckle is a useful climber for all
purposes where great height is not required.
Lonicera flexuosa is a good climber, with a
vigorous and branching habit. Lonicera
brachypoda is a strong grower with evergreen
foliage, and useful for covering a sunny wall.
These Japanese Honeysuckles are only hardy in
the south.

Roses, as a rule, are not true climbers, but a
few kinds produce wood sufficiently perennial
to retain its vigour and growing power for
many years. The Ayrshire Roses are slender
and rapid climbers, which should be planted
where tney can ramble over shrubs and trees, or
trail over a sunny bank. The Boursault Roses
will cover a great space of wall and produce a
profusion of bloom. Banksian Roses produce
a fine effect on sunny walls and banks in the
south. Many of the so-called hybrid China
Roses will cover walls with a profusion of
foliage and flowers ; and the Evergreen or Sem-
pervirens Roses are amongst the most useful of
any, doing well on walls, trellises, or arbours,
and covering a great extent of low fence when
trained horizontally. All strong-grow ing Roses
can be used as climbers when on their own roots,
but a succession of young shoots from the roots
should always be kept coming on. The
character of these plants, however, is always
that of shrubs producing long, whip-like shoots,
and never that of plants hanging from their
points of support on stronger plants. Roses
should never be nailed to walls, but allowed to
ramble up through a trellis fixed to the wall.
They produce better foliage and flowers growing
in this way, and their stems are not scorched
by reflected heat from the wall. The flowering
shoots should always hang loose.

Ok Climbing Shrubs the most generally
useful is the Vine. Used merely as a foliage
plant scarcely any position is too bad for it
provided it has plenty of sun. A single plant
will cover a wall 40 feet long with beautiful
foliage, or deck a wall, trellis, or arbour with
graceful sprays of leaves. No pruning is
required unless fruit is wanted. Wistaria
sinensis is a beautiful thing for a wall ; it
requires careful training as it grows, if required,
to cover a wall, but I must confess to a
preference for it as it has been allowed
to grow here. Ours is planted in a sunny
corner and has been allowed to run up to the top
of an old wall at once ; on the top ana along the
coping and cornice of this wall it runs for nearly
40 feet on either side of the main stem, and its
beautiful sprays of bloom and pale groen leaves
make a fringe hanging over the Peach and Plum
trees below. It would make a beautiful cover¬
ing for an arbour, or to run over the roof of an
outhouse. The white and the blue Passion¬
flower will both do out-of-doors in the south.
They are amongst the most graceful of climbers;
it ruins them to be nailed in any way. Points
of support should bo arranged to which their
tendrils can attach themselves, and the shoots
thinned out when too crowded. What should
be aimed at is to get the plant to produce long
sprays, as these flower from every joint in suc¬
cession. Passion-flowers should not be cut
down until the leaves are killed by frost and fall.
I killed one I had by cutting it down while the
leaves were still green, and one here which was
cut down lost autumn has only lately started,
and will do nothing this year. The safest way
is to cut off all the green wood after the leaves
have fallen, the plant then starts early and grows
vigorously. Begonia radicans is a beautiful plant
with orange-rea trumpet flowers only suitable for
sunny wall in the south of England, it has very
much the habit of Wistaria sinensis. The two
best wall plants are Ivy and its varieties, and
Virginian Creeper. The so naturally attach
themselves to walba^r* iiii eLJol filing. A
mixture of the two on the jf6|ble roof here

has a most beautiful effect in autumn ; the
Ivy comes from one side and the Creeper from
the other, so that their roots do not interfere.
Ampelopsis Veitchii is a cut-leaved Virginian
Creeper, which has been several times noticed
in Gardening ; it takes the same fine colour in
the autumn as the well-known kind. Of other
shrubs useful for covering walls, common
Jasmine is useful both for town and country.
Kerria japonica will flower as well on a north
wall as facing south. Rosemary is a good old-
fashioned thing, hardy everywhere. Magnolias
are beautiful in the south, and Pyracantha and
Cotoneasters are useful for their berries. It is a
great mistake in covering walls to cut and clip
and nail in everything. The wall should support
the plants, but the plants should hide and not
imitate the flat surface of the wall. The foliage
should be allowed to form masses and sprays as
if the wall was part of the plants. When fruit
trees are trained out over a wall the object is to
produce and ripen fruit, not to ornament the
wall. A fruit tree training has no place in a
decorative garden, although one scarcely ever
sees anything trained on a wall in any other way
except through neglect.

Pillars. —What are usually called pillars
are things to be avoided in a garden. Groups
of rustic poles, rustic arches, any kind of erec¬
tion almost which will support the plants, may
be made good use of so long as formality is
avoided, but trim groups of poles, with plants
trained closely to them, are only introducing
unnecessary formality. The true place of
climbers and one of their best uses is to break
up formality and do away with trimness. Where
arches or groups of poles are used they should
never be placed in rows, or at regular intervals,
like telegraph posts. Even where an arcade
of Roses is planted it will give a better effect to
let each variety assume its natural habit and
make flattish arches for those of rambling, and
tall arches for those of pendulous growth, while
those which make long whip-like rods are
trained in the form of a pointed arch. Clumps
of climbers trained up artificial supports should
be judiciously used, not overdone ; nothing can
look worse than turf studded over with numbers
of plants widest at the top, or the same width
from top to bottom. J. D.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 342 .)

The Orchard House.

When we speak of the progress of gardening
we, perhaps, hardly realise the fact that much
of this progress has been owing to cheap glass.
Without this there w'ould have been no orchard
houses scattered over the land, nor yet the
masses of bright exotics which we notice in
every garden. This, perhaps, in the eyes of
some people would have been no loss. Still, in
a climate like ours bright colours tend to enliven
the scene.

The orchard house idea originated in the pro¬
lific brain of the late Mr. Thos. Rivers, but the
idea as promulgated by him has grown with the
exigencies of the time, and is now a substantial
structure of wood and glass mounted on brick
walls. There is no economy in the use of in¬
ferior materials or workmanship. A house
must be well built if it is to hold together, but
in the orchard houses of the future I have no
doubt all perishable materials used in construc¬
tion will be under cover. Mr. Rivers grew his
trees mostly in pots, and recommended that
system of culture, and on his advice many
adopted it, but some gave it up afterwards in
consequenco of the time and labour required.
Any given result can be more easily obtained by
plantmg the trees in a border than by growing
them in pots. For instance, we will say,
“Here is a span-roofed house for late Peaches.
What system shall I adopt to obtain the
greatest number of fine, well-flavoured fruit at
the least cost ?” If the question is put in that
way I do not think the potted trees would find
many advocates. On the other hand, if an
enthusiast in fruit culture wants a hobby, and
would rather spread the produce of his trees
over a considerable period than have too much
at once, then, I say, grow them in pots. I know
no better way of testing a man’s abilities than
in placing under his care a house full of potted
fruit trees. There will, of course, be reaches

and Nectarines, and, perhaps, Apricots, though
they do better in a house by themselves where
they can be kept cool and have abundant venti¬
lation. Plums and Cherries should be included,
as they do well in pots. One of the evils of the
system is the crowding of too many trees into
one small house, though there is less danger to
be apprehended if the trees are thinned out in
good time. The Plums, for instance, or some of
them, may be moved to a sheltered place out-of-
doors when the fruits are set. It is in the
watching over the plants, the moving of this or
that tree to a better position, the removal,
perhaps, of another to a sunny spot in the open
air ; it is in the carrying out of small things
which cannot be put down on paper, and which
arises in the painstaking mind only, that con¬
stitutes real praiseworthy success. Again, in
the watering of

Trees in Pots,

What incessant -watchfulness and care is re¬
quired, for the sins of commission and of omission
have both to be guarded against. If we trace
the career of a potted Peach tree in its relation
with watering-pots through one season, we shall
see some of tne difficulty of the work. When
brought into the house the pruning and cleansing
should be done before any buds have swollen
much. It is best to do the work in January,
just as the buds are beginning to move, as this
enables the pruner to discover the wood buds
that he wishes to cut back to. If the summer
pruning was rightly done, there will not be
much to do now beyond a little shortening, and
the removal of snags, and the trimming of scars
which may have been left from the summer
work. To plunge or not to plunge the pots
may be left an open question to be decided by
those interested. A tree with its pot plunged
will not require so much water, and the roots
will be less exposed to changes of temperature.
On the other hand the unplunged trees have
the benefit of the solar warmth playing round
their roots, and if they require more water
there are more opportunities of oonveying
gentle stimulants to the roots to swell off and
nourish the fruit. The fruit of un plunged trees
in careful hands is of superior flavour. Fruit
growing is a many-sided business, and has to be
looked at from so many different points of view,
that a very good case might be made out both
for and against the culture of trees in pots.
Many from lack of the power to grasp minute
details have failed, whilst others possessing
that most valuable faculty (which has been
called the spirit of genius) of “taking pains”
have succeeded without encountering any diffi¬
culties. In the culture of trees in pots it is
important that we start right. The trees
should not be too old. Trees of several years
of age have often been cut back too severely
in the trade^grower’s hands. There is no ques¬
tion, I think, that there is more cutting back
of young fruit trees in the nursery than is good
for them, and for this reason, if we have time
enough, and can afford to wait, I should recom¬
mend maiden trees, and that great care
should be used in the selection to ensure
their being budded on healthy stocks, and that
the union is a perfect and successful one.
Having secured early in autumn a sufficient
number of healthy maiden trees they should be
potted in turfy loam, in which a few crushed
bones and a little Standens, or Clays, or Aimes
artificial manure, has been incorporated wrn
just a little lime or old plaster. Calcined oyster
shells are good for the lime they contain, i
do not like yard manure, as its tendency is to
clog up the pores of the soil, and a better resui

can be obtained with a concentrated manure.

Usually instructions for the use of each manure
are enclosed in the packets ; so the novice
use them. Ten-inch pots will be large enoug
to begin with.

Drainage. .

This should be as perfect as it w possib
make it, for at times in hot weather a good
of water is needed, and the drainage is a v
important link in the chain of success,
often the man wielding the water-pot is hea y
handicapped by the boy who arranged
drainage. The large hole in the bottom o
pot should be covered with one large pie
crock. It should not lie quite flat on

size smaller

Sept. 27, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

357

small pieces. I may say, in passing, these passing through them, especially in the early the house, and is consequently more effective,
various sizes of crocks, where much potting has stages of growth, and on cold days, with the On no account must the Tobacco paper be
to be done, should always be kept in stock, wind in the east, this should be avoided. On allowed to flare. The morning after the fumi-
being prepared by the boys in bad weather, such days when the sun is shining brightly, and gation the trees Bhould have a good washing
The drainage for a 10-inch pot may be about 2^ air must be given to keep down temperature, it with the garden engine, to bring down the dead
inches thick—at any rate it should not exceed is a good plan to hong some strips of canvas and sick flies. The black aphis is more trouble-
tliat. On the drainage place a layer of chopped (through which the air may be filtered) over the some to the Peach than the greenfly, but
turf taken from the heap used in potting, ventilators. The disbudding and thinning of it may be got under by using the same means ;
Place the tree in the centre of the pot, keeping both wood and fruits has been amply discussed and it is very important that the matter be
the collar in the same position as to insertion elsewhere. I will only say further that trees in dealt with in time. Later on in the season, if
in the soil it formerly occupied, and ram the pots must not be overloaded. Two dozen of the weather be hot and dry, and if the water
soil in firmly, but take care none of the roots Peaches or Nectarines will be a heavy crop for supply has been stinted, either in the atmo-
are injured with the potting stick. I need a good-sized tree in a pot. After the fruits are sphere or at the root, the red spider usually
hardly say any long, straggling roots should be set the Byringe or garden engine will be used makes his appearance, and he is so small that
shortened, and all lacerations of the roots, frequently, but if used in the afternoon alw ays he may at first pass unobserved ; but he will not
received in removal from the nursery, should be do it early enough to allow the foliage to get remain long unnoticed, or rather his work will
smoothed with a sharp knife. When the trees dry before night. The night and early morning soon be observed if he is present. Thev eat all
are potted they should be stood on a bed of ventilation are strong points in a sound practice, the green matter from the upper side of the
coal ashes or some impervious bottom till after only they want to be carried out judiciously, leaves first, and then attack the lower side, and
Christmas, sheltering the pots with litter, and taking into consideration the state of the in a short time, if no means are taken to destroy
if a hard frost sets in scatter a little litter weather, size and aspect of the house, &c. As them, they will cause all the leaves to fall from
loosely over the tops of the pots also. I have soon as blossoms are fairly set, a top-dressing a tree. The best remedy is pure soft water,
already spoken of their removal to the house in of loam and manure may be placed on the sur- Where this is used freely, and the roots do not
January and of their pruning and washing with face of the pots. . More water will be required, suffer from want, there will be no difficulty
Gishurst compound. By this time the roots and this will induce the roots to take possession from red spider. Sulphur used in the syringing
will be active, and will need to be watered, of the top-dressing. As the fruit increases in water in small quantities will be beneficial if
though not very frequently at first, unless the size liquid manure should be given freely, phos- any spiders are present. And sulphur also is
weather should be bright and drying. The more phates being more desirable than manures the beBt remedy for mildew, both on the foliage
roomy the house the better, and the less need abounding in nitrogen for Btone fruits. As the and on the fruit. There are two species of
will there be for artificial heat to keep out fruits begin to ripen, there must be full venti- brown scale (Coccus amygdali and C. Fersiote),
frost when the blooms are expanding. Until lation. It will be better in grouping the trees butGishurstcompoundwill destroy them. Where
the trees come into blossom the house may have to place the early sorts at one end and the later the trees are regularly washed, before growth
full ventilation, and it is never wise to hurry kinds at the other, with the intermediate ripen- begins, with a strong solution of this, or any
the blooming, as retarding, if possible, is the ing varieties in the middle. If this is done the other suitable insecticide, the scale will not be
better practice ; but as soon as the blossoms late kinds can be receiving a higher temperature troublesome. Sometimes, when the borders are
begin to expand the ventilation should be pro- to complete their growth, whilst the early allowed to get too dry, a fungus attacks the
perly regulated, avoiding draught, as blossoms kinds are having full air to flavour the fruit, roots, especially if any leaf-mould, or bits of
of fruit trees are fragile things. A genial at- Sometimes it may be desirable to combine root or stick, is left in the border. The best
mosphere, approaching dryness rather than the culture of trees in pots with the planting way of remedying this is to lift out the trees,
dampness, kept in motion by as many openings out system. If the house is a large span-roofed and remove all the old tainted soil, and bring
os the state of the weather will permit, is the structure, standard trees may be planted down back fresh from a new source. It often happens
right condition to aim at. the central border, and trees in pots may occupy that the borders may be affected in this way

Pinching the Young Wood. the side borders. If the house is not very lofty, without it being known. A tree gradually

Though a good deal has been written on this sub- pyramidal trees may take the place of the becomes weakly when there is no ostensible
ject aome people are still in a fog as to the right standards. In any case, they must not be disease, only weakness, which arises from
course to adopt. One thing may be stated with planted too thickly. One handsome well- the roots being poisoned by the flaky
certainty, that no hard, unbending rule can be developed tree will bear more fruit than if two white fungus which is fast enveloping them,
right for all trees. Trees of exceptional strength or three be crowded into the same Bpace. Though in an orchard house proper quite
or those of weakly habit must be considered on Besides, if the sun and air cannot penetrate, the a number of different kinds of fruit may
their merits, apart from general principles. Ido fruit will not colour, and the flavour will be be grown together, yet there is no doubt,
not recommend Peaches to be closely pinched, inferior. If a good border of sound loam has where it can be done, it is better to form them
Let them make 8 inches of wood and then re- been made, Peaches will succeed for many years into groups ; for instance, I always think Figs
move the terminal bud. The very vigorous without training, beyond what is given by the will pay for a little forcing in spring, to insure
trees should be deprived of their gross shoots, finger and thumb and the knife. Such trees the ripening of the crops. The Cherry, again,
and the exuberance directed into less robust are usually more healthy and longer lived than and the Apricot do best alone, the latter being
channels. This should be done as soon as this those pruned and braced up to a trellis ; and for very impatient of artificial heat, or any stuffi-
tendency manifests itself in any part of the tree, a large house it is an interesting way of growing ness in the atmosphere. Plums succeed well
It is an easy matter to control growth if taken Peaches and Nectarines. There must, of course, with Peaches and Nectarines, but Pears and
in time, and the evil habit nipped in the bud. be pruning, or in time the trees would get out of Apples should be grouped together.

Weakly trees want encouragement, and only a hand, and become naked at the bottom. But A Grape vine may be trained along beneath
light load to carry till strength is regained, Peaches may be cut back into the old wood, not the ridge, if desired; but the trees below want
little or no pinching being done till the growing only with impunity, but with benefit. If the all the light. Good Grapes mav be grown in
season is far advanced, and then take out the potted trees, or any other, have got naked below, an orchard house, but they are best kept sepa-
terminal bud of the strongest shoots only. The cut back sufficiently to bring the tree into a good rate, if there is the means of doiDg this,
object of pinching is to concentrate force. One shape. Encourage growth by giving a genial Sorts to Grow.

fruit is quite enough for one young shoot to atmosphere, disbud the shoots not required to I give below short lists of varieties suitabl

carry, ana if the shoots are permitted to run form the new head, and in twelve months a for orchard house culture,
themselves out unstopped, there is less strength handsome fertile tree will be created from the Peaches. —Early varieties : Acton Scott, Early
in any given length of branch. The aim is to leggy one. The Peach yields to this treatment Louise, Hale’s Early, Royal George, Early York,
stop the shoots so as to throw the force into the better than most others, but Plums and Apricots, Noblesse, Abec, Crawford’s Early, Early Silver,
back buds and foliage. If the pinching takes if the roots are healthy, will submit to it. Mid-season varieties : Barrington, Bellegrade,

place too early, the object will probably be de- Application of Artificial Heat. Raymacker’s, Belle Baeuce, Comice de Bour-

feated, because the back eyes will push out When the orchard house idea was first started, bourg, Prince of Wales. Late sorts: Comet,

laterals, and those again when stopped will it was considered that artificial heat would not Condor, Lord Palmerston, Lady Palmerston,

push out laterals in their turn, and a continued be required, but a fuller experience leads me to Princess of Wales, Stump the World, Late
state of excitement and waste be encouraged, recommend, especially in tne case of small or Admirable.

when the object should be to induce rest and moderate-sized houses, that some means of Nectarines. — Elruge, Early Newington,
maturity to form strong flower buds. Plums warming the house be available, but only to be Downton, Pine-apple, Hardwicke Seedling,
maybe more closely pinched than Peaches, 3 or used in frosty weather, and then only to keep Hunt’s Tawny, Lord Napier, Pitmaston Orange,
4 inches of young wood being quite enough, out frost. River’s Orange, Violette Hative, Old Newing-

In all cases a shoot should be encouraged to Diseases and Insects. ton, and Victoria.

grow out at full length in various parts of the The Peach, like all other fruits, is more Plums. —Coe’s Golden Drop, Cox’s Emperor,
tree for filling up vacancies, and keep up the susceptible to the attacks of insects and mildew Coe’s Late Red, Decaisne, Denniston’s Superb,
Btamina of the tree. Some annual progress when weakened by over cropping or from Greengage, Hnling’s Superb, Jefferson, July
seems necessary to perfect health in all trees, neglect in watering, or any other cause. But Greengage, Kirke’s, Lawrence’s Gage, Pond’s
and this should be borne in mind, but the whole under glass these various influences should be Seedling, Prince of Wales, Purple Gage,^ lteine,
subject requires a great deal of thought. To minimised, as the cultivator has the matter Claude dc Bavy, Transparent Gage, Victoria,
give encouragement in some cases and to repress pretty much in his own hands. It is true Washington.

in others, without overdoing it in either case, that almost as soon as the young shoots I have given a somewhat lengthy list of
requires the judgment which is born of experi- break forth in spring the greenfly appears, Peaches and Plums, under the impression that
ence, and the knowledge which a wide study but in most cases he can be kept under Dy the they, or at least some of them, will be grown in
of the subject only can give. use of the engine and clean Boft water ; but if pots. I do not think I need give lists of other

General Management. this will not suffice smoking with Tobacco must fruits.

The directions and suggestions for the late be resorted to ; and it is better to smoke twice, The Moor Park is still the finest Apricot in
Peach house may be read as applying with equal with a day or so between, than to overdo it. cultivation, and in a bad climate it is better
force to the orchard boqpe. The Pliuns and The leaves must be quite dry when the fumigator worth ft house to itself than some things which
Cherrier. should occupy light ilea? the is introduced. A calm, damp evening is the are so favoured ; but it wants careful manage-

ventilators, but they dolikl bold currcucs of air most suitable, as the smoke remains longer in ment, especially as regards ventilation,

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 27 , 1884 .

Cherries are a recognised crop under glass, and
forces well, either in pots or as trained trees.
The Dukes are, perhaps, more manageable under
glass than other kinds. The whole matter
hinges upon Btcady, regular treatment, guard¬
ing against the application of too much heat,
and giving plenty of fresh, pure air.

Among Apples , which may, where space can
be spared, be grown in pots, may be named
Calville Blanche, Newtown Pippin, and Orange
Pinpin.

If Pears are grown in pots the late sorts
should chiefly be selected. E. Hobday.

FRUIT.

BUSH FRUITS FOR MARKET.
Gooseberries.

These are largely grown in all parts of the
kingdom and with great success, there being,
as a rule, few failures. Since their culture for
market has been taken up in earnest, sorts that
really do bear crops of serviceable sized berries
annually have become popular. Large Lanca¬
shire prize kinds answer for special purposes,
but for general use it is safer to take the market
grower’s selection as a guide than that of the
exhibitor. The usual routine of culture adopted
is to plant healthy bushes two years old from
cuttings that have good heads, having been cut
down once in the propagating beds; these
are planted from 6 feet to 9 feet apart each
way on deeply cultivated soil, and a light crop
of vegetables or salad plants is taken off the
ground between the rows the first year or two
after planting. Many, too, grow a row of Straw¬
berries between the lines of Gooseberries until
the bushes occupy the whole of the ground.
Pruning is done any time between the fall of
the leaf and the swelling up of the buds in
spring, but in most cases the bushes are thinned
more severely than they are in private gardens,
especially while young, the object being to get
fine berries that till up the measure quickly; all
cross pieces of wood are cut out after the head
is formed and the leading shoots are shortened,
some of the old wood being annually re¬
moved and young vigorous shoots left to
replace it. Young wood bears the best berries,
but old spurs the largest number. When
the bushes get old the wood is left thicker,
so as to produce a quantity of berries for gather¬
ing green, a condition in which they fetch the
most remunerative prices. Whitsuntide is the
date usually fixed on for commencing Goose¬
berry picking for tarts, the custom in market
gardens being to go over the bushes and take off
all the largest fruits, especially from the lower
branches, as when heavy storms of rain occur
these fruits get splashed with mud, thereby
reducing their market value. About three
gatherings are made of the crop ; some market
all the berries green, others depend on ripe
fruit, but, as a rule, green berries, as I have
said, pay best. If left to ripen on the bushes,
and wet weather sets in, the berries burst and
quickly rot. Moreover, it is only a few
varieties that sell well in a ripe state, such as
the Earlv Golden Drop, Yellow Rough Warring¬
ton, and the small Itough Red, the last for
preserving. The Gooseberry needs liberal
manuring to keep it up to a high pitch of fruit¬
fulness ; a good winter dressing of decayed
manure should be lightly forked in around the
bushes. The greatest enemies to the Gooseberry
grower are small birds. They pick the buds
out during winter, and especially just as they
are swelling up ia February and March. Goose¬
berry caterpillars, too, attack the foliage, which
must be dusted with Hellebore powder on the
first sign of their appearance. It is usually
applied by means of perforated tins like flour
dredgers.

Currants.

Red, White, and Black Currants bear crops
with greater certainty than most other culti¬
vated fruits ; tha routine of planting and other
items of cultivation are the same as those
practised in the case of Gooseberries, but the
pruning is varied according to the sort grown.
Red and White Currants are closely spur
pruned ; only the leading Bhoots are allowed to
extend until they have attained the desired
length, and then^-tbey are stopped in very
closely, and in thdcaseiofcqotcjri^eklthy bushes
tho shoots get cofcpftftdf coveted Vith fruit

spurs and fruit buds, which develop into solid
masses of fruit. Some growers summer pinch
as soon as the young shoots have made half-a-
dozen leaves, and there can be no question that
the practice is an excellent one, the fruit-bear¬
ing buds being strengthened by exposure to light
and air.

Black Currants are allowed to grow unchecked
during summer ; at the winter pruning a good
deal of the old fruiting wood is annually cut out,
and young strong shoots that spring from the
base are allowed to take its place, as they pro¬
duce by far tho finest fruits. The spur system
of pruning does not suit Black Currants, and I
may add that although Red and White Currants
grow and fruit freely in light, rather dry land,
the Black Currant delights in plenty of moisture.
Therefore if the soil is deficient in that respect,
heavy top-dressings of cow manure should be
applied to it in order to keep the roots cool.
It is not often that birds attack the buds of
Currant bushes in open fields, although they do
so in gardens, and caterpillars are not so partial
to their leaves as those of the Gooseberry.

Varieties .—As regards varieties, the follow¬
ing are in most request, viz. : Red Raby Castle,
Victoria, and Scotch Red, and the Red Grape is
esteemed for its long bunches for dessert. Of
white sorts, the Dutch and White Transparent
are two good kinds ; and of Black, the Naples,
Baldwin, and Lee’s Prolific. Currants for
market are not gathered until they are fairly
well coloured. They are then packed in sieves,
or more generally half-sieves, and sent to the
salesman or direct to the shopkeeper ; as fruits
for preserving or culinary uses, few are more
appreciated while procurable. I may add that
the system of selling them by weight has nearly
superseded that of measure. It is the best
system for both buyer and seller. Market
growers do not attempt to prolong their season
by any system of netting them up, as is done in

S rivate gardens, as the extra price obtained
oes not compensate for such labour. The best
way, as a rule, is to gather each sort as it is fit
for use.

Raspberries.

These have lately commanded a deal of atten¬
tion, and are now extensively grown as market
fruits. The usual plan is to plant in lines from
4 feet to 6 feet apart, the canes being placed
about a foot asunder. Good rich land is needed
to produce heavy crops of fine fruit, for although
the Raspberry will grow freely in almost any
kind of soil, and produce plenty of blossoms, it
is only when its roots can find suitable food in
abundance that it can carry a good crop of full-
sized fruit. In periods of drought the late
blossoms dry up on poor soils instead of swelling
off, but if rich mulchings are applied and copious
waterings of liquid manure given, it is surprising
the quantity of fruit which a good plantation
will yield. I find in light soil that cow or pig
manure, applied as a winter dressing, produces
excellent results. The system of pruning is
usually to cut the canes down to about 2 feet in
height, and in that case no stakes or wires are
employed, as is usual in private gardens. All
surplus canes are dug up in winter and employed
for making new plantations, for although the
Raspberry makes fresh wood every season, and
by good culture may be kept prolific for many
years, it is necessary to always have young plan¬
tations coming on. Market gardeners plant a
certain number of rows every year, and do away
with an equal number of old stock. The finest
Raspberries are gathered with the stalks attached
to them and sent to market for dessert, but the
greatest demand is for jam manufacture, for
which purpose they are iu great request, and
realise fair prices, even in the most abundant
fruit seasons. The varieties grown for market
are Carter’s Prolific, the Red and White Antwerp,
Prince of Wales, and the Fastolf ; the red kinds
are much more grown than the white, the latter
being only for dessert. A new sort called Baum-
forth’s Seedling is very highly spoken of by
those who have tried it.

Nuts.

Various kinds of Nuts are a remunerative
crop, but although they succeed in almost any
kind of Boil, it is only in Kent where they are
extensively grown. The system of pruning, by
which hollow, cut-shaped bushes are formed, is
probably the cause of the fruit being so fine,
as where the bushes are allowed to grow as they
like tho fruit is not nearly so fine as when the

restrictive system is adopted. Nuts are usually
planted as an under crop, beneath Apple, Pear,
or Plum trees, amongst Currants and Goose¬
berries, about 15 feet apart, but it takes several
years to form a good Nut bush. The pruning
of Nuts is made a speciality of by men who cut
the bushes at so much per score or hundred,
according to size and age. They cut out the
centre shoots, and always prune to a bud
pointing outwards. All suckers are broken
clean off, as well as all coarse, watery shoots ;
only the wiry-looking twigs are retained, and
the size which tho Nuts attain under this
sy stem of pruningis the best guarantee of its sound¬
ness. Rags and other refuse are dug in amongst
the bushes in winter, and in summer the strong
shoots are stopped when in full growth, being
broken by hand, an operation that has the effect
of Increasing the size of the Nuts. Cob Nuts
are now much more largely planted than
Filberts. The Kentish Cob and Webb’s Prize,
the Cosford Nut, and Red and White Filbert,
are the sorts usually grown, and in almost all
kinds of seasons they realise good prices, the
flavour of good home-grown Nuts being superior
to that of imported ones ; in fact, our home
growers can defy competition in the matter of
bush fruits, the cultivation of which is likelv to
attain very large proportions. J. G. G.

11918.-- Raspberry culture. — Pruning,
in the strict sense of the word, is never prac¬
tised whilst the foliage is green ; but what many
growers do is to thin out the canes soon after
the crop is gathered, with the object of letting in
sun and air, so as to allow of the more perfect
maturity of those that remain. As to the amount
of canes to be left, that depends upon the
strength of the stools. When thoroughly estab¬
lished half a dozen good stout canes suffice, in
thinning out all the old bearing wood is cut
away, as this, of course, is useless, and this
alone permits of the better circulation of air,
and the more free entry of sun to the bearing
canes of the following year. As soon as the
leaves drop the canes may be shortened to the
length desired, and be tied up; and if a good
dressing of manure can be given, they will feel
the benefit of it the following summer.—J. C. B §

11991.— Q-rapea not colouring. --This i 8
a question that has not been definitely settled
yet, but the conditions under which Black
Hamburgh Grapes colour best are a light crop,
and the fruit well shaded by the foliage. One
bunch to every shoot is too much to expect any
vine to ripen well, or at least to colour well;
the Foxy Grapes ripen well and they are as good
in flavour. A large Tulip tree growing in front
of a vinery, shading it for two hours at midday,
must be injurious. The shade from the tree
must injure the vines, and its roots will grow
into the border in all directions. In the interest
of the vines it ought to be removed. The vines
ought to have a thorough pood watering after
the Grapes begin to colour. Over dryness at the
roots will also prevent the Grapes from colouring.

—J. D. E.

11974.—Fig Tree culture. —Nearly all the
pruning they require is to cut out the young wood
where it is too thick. Ail suckers should be
removed. The young wood that has been most
exposed to the sun, and is, therefore, short-
jointed and well-ripened, ought to be saved.

The foliage must not be freely cut away. The
trees are easily propagated from eyes or
cuttings; they should be put in during the
winter, and succeed best in a hothouse, or they
may be propagated in the spring by putting the
eyes or cuttings in small pots, and placing them
in a hot-bed.—J. D. E.

11945. —Manure for fruit trees. —Straw• I

berries, Currant, and Gooseberry bushes like
rich soil, and fowls’ manure suits them very
well indeed ; but it is almost as rich as guano, I
and must not be applied too freely. The ten- I
dency of Apple and Pear trees in rich soil is to I

? ;row too much to wood, instead of forming I
ruit or rather blossom buds. If the trees have I
that tendency fowls’ manure would increase it, I
but if they are growing on poor soil, and are I
producing fruit freely, the application of this I
manure in moderate quantities would be pro- I
ductive of good.—J, D. E.

11904.—Neotarine stones splitting.— 1 This is not |
peculiar tq the variety Lord Napier, but so. probobljr. I
c& used i>y the fruit not being well set in the spring. St-- I
that the blossoms aro touched with a camel hair bruit H
once a day during tho time of floweritljr.—J • D. E.

Sept. 27 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

859

i

&

V-

VEGETABLES.

Tomato cutting’s. —Where Tomatoes are
desired very early in the spring there is no
better way of securing them than rooting cut¬
tings in the autumn and growing the young
plants on throughout the winter, but unless
where special means exist to keep them growing
with the object of having them in bloom soon
(and this cannot be done without a great deal
of heat and light), it is best to keep them quiet
and merely treat them as stock planted until
the turn of the year. They may be kept in
any place where bedding Pelargoniums will
succeed, and they should be kept dwarf by
means of pinching, and robust by being fully
exposed to the light, until they can be fairly
set a-going for blooming and fruiting, and this
is much more easily accomplished after the new
year than at present.

Unripe Tomato fruits.—Of these we have many
bundles cut from plants on open walls about the end of Sep¬
tember. They are hung upon the roof or the potting shed,
and we find them ripen better there than in the glasshouses.
A humid atmosphere soon causes them to decay, and that,
too, very often before they ripen, hence the reason of a dry
shed suiting them so well.

Variegated Kales. —These are very hardy and grow
freely in all soils and climates, but It is onlv about this
time their leaves begin to assume their rich markings.
When well coloured they are both beautiful and valuable
for garnishing fruit on the dinner table. The young leaves
which, under favourable circumstances, como'out on Beet¬
root stored away in a dark shed are also very useful for
this purpose.

Brussels Sprouts. —Where these are very early and
fully developed, mild weather in autumn may cause many
of the finest to burst, and then they are next to useless ;
where there is any danger of this happening it may be
effectually prevented by heeling over the plants In ifluch
the same way as is done with Broccoli in winter.—J. M.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11976 .—Plaintain and Daisy roots on
lawn. —If “X. Y. Z.” will obtain from any
seedsman a tin of “lawn sand,” and apply it
according to directions, he will easily eradicate
the Daisy roots. The Plaintains must be cut off
about half an inch below the surface, and a salt-
spoonful of salt dropped on the root left. This
will destroy them, and the Grass will soon grow
and cover the bare place made by the Plaintain
leaves.—B.

- One part sulphate ammonia and three parts bone

superphosphate well mixed and sown over the lawn will
destroy Daisies and, I suppose, Plaintains, but not small
weeds.—E. S. P.

11750.—Watering plants in winter.—
Great care in watering means regulating the
supply, so that the plants do not at any time
suffer for want of it, and yet are never over-
watered. Plants in pots should nearly dry out
before they are watered, and then only just
enough water should be given to moisten the
soil through. It is easy enough to determine
when a plant should be watered, as the surface
becomes white, or nearly so, and if the pot is
lifted it naturally feels light. Soil is cola, and
roots are more or less stagnant during the winter
months ; therefore only enough moisture should
be given as will keep the foliage fresh, but at
the same time the soil should not become dust
dry, or some of the fibrous roots perish.—
J. C. B. ^

11963.— Weedy lawns. —A lawn is like
everything else connected with gardening, it
must have attention, and yours appears to have
been much neglected, or it would not have
become so covered with weeds. Had you
destroyed the weeds before they came to any
great size the Grass would have become too
thick for anything but Daisies and Plantains to
live amongst. Although the season is so far
advanced much good may yet be done—as if the
weeds are pulled or dug out with a small fork
the Grass will yet cover some of the vacant
spaces. The weeding must be followed up
through the autumn and spring, and in March
the bare spots may be lightly forked over and
some Grass seedssown on them, scattering a little
light soil thereon, and afterwards rolling the
lawn well. By keeping the weeds in check, and
mowing constantly, a good Grass plot will be
formed in the course of a year.—J. C. B.

11943.—Thrips on Daijlias and other
plants. —This pest has been verar i/aifibltpome
indeed this season, eapecmllylio on tliJcJSSas.

It has been necessary to enclose the show or
other Dahlias in muslin bags in order to save
them from being quite disfigured. They could
be shaken out of the petals in hundreds. The
only way to keep them off is to syringe the
plants daily during hot weather ; the insects
will not do much harm if this is followed up.
It is owing to the hot, dry weather that it has
increased so much. Parsley has been a failure
in many places this year, owing to the dry
weather. We have a good crop, hut the seeds
were watered to bring them through the ground,
and the plants were well watered afterwards.—
J. D. E.

11945. —Fowls’ manure. —In reply to
“Acton,” as I have had some experience this
year of fowls’ manure, I write to say that a
friend gave me a large cartload in March, which
was immediately separated, spread over the
garden, and dug in, and to our utter dismay
nothing seemed to thrive. For the first three
months everything had the appearance of being
burnt up. Several things, such as Cucumber
plants, Marrows, Verbenas, &c., disappeared in
less than a week ; but after a time, when the
ground cooled with watering and heavy rains,
everything grew at a tremendous rate. Some
scarlet Salvias, instead of being only 6 inches,
are 3 feet high, and seem to have no strength to
open their blossoms ; in fact, everything seems
to run to foliage. I think if the manure had
been properly cooled and mixed with a large
quantity of other refuse, such as Grass mowings,
&c., it would have been more serviceable.—
Nelson.

11863.—Woodlice eating Foxgloves.—
“ X. Y. Z.” is in error as to what is eating his
plants. Woodlice and most other depredators
prefer the leaves of plants, and do not, as a rule,
eat the stems at the surface of the ground. The
depredators are the daddy-long-legs grubs,
which, having no feet, cannot climb, and cut off
plants at the surface of the soil by eating them
through. They are very destructive in that
way to Carnations, Pinks, Sweet Williams,
Stocks, and similar evergreen plants, as they
can only reach a very small portion of the plants,
and the mischief is generally done before it is
suspected. There is no remedy but catch and
kill. If the soil round the plant is stirred with
a piece of stick the grubs will be found about an
inch below the surface and within 6 or 7
inches of the plant. They are like a sausage in
shape, and of a dark, dirty drab colour. They
are rarely troublesome in the country, as the
robins and starlings know where to find them,
and the swallows devour the greater part of the
perfect insects ; but in towns where these birds
are absent they reach the dimensions of a plague
in some seasons. I had a bed of six dozen Sweet
Williams completely destroyed by them one
winter. They seem to show a preference for
Foxgloves in the country.—J. D.

11992.—Robins in gardens.— “J. A. S. ”
should feed the sparrows with stale bread,
soaked in water, and afterwards squeezed dry
in the hand, and either thrown upon the grass
or placed upon the garden wall, at first as far
from the house as possible. If a few crumbs of
cheese, or scraps of meat, shreded fine, are
mixed with the bread, or a few berries, this
will induce the robins to frequent the garden.
Robins are particularly fond of cheese, also of
ants’ eggs, and mealworms. These may be
urchased at most bird dealers, and should be
ept in a jar with a little oatmeal, the ants’ eggs
by themselves in a cool place, the mealworms
in a warm one. My robins and sparrows come
to me at a certain call, and the sparrows run
about around my feet, picking up crumbs like
chickens. The robins are not yet so tame,
although they will sit upon the wall and sing
beautifully. They seem very nervous of dogs,
however, and naturally so of their enemy the
cat. Starlings also run about upon our lawn,
and in the winter thrushes and blackbirds ; and
this autumn we are going to plant a cherry-tree
especially for the blackbirds. Although our
house is situated in a populous suburb of
London, abounding in cats, and with a railway
line running at the end of the garden, yet I
have succeeded in enticing many song birds
here. Nothing in the shape of food is allowed
to be thrown away ; all scraps are thrown to
the birds, and our little dog frightens away the
cats that come after the birds. Robins are fond
of German paste.—M. C. H.

. -Flowers for sunny border—See answer
to 11985.—H. II.

, , ™. * upoettwus v irgiuiu creeper—ineso
will strike freely In August and September by lading a
long shoot and pegging it well down at the points.—M. C.

119.S5 —Selection of hardy flowers.— See article
on the “Management of Small Gardens” in Gardexisq
Illostratkd for September Oth, 1884, where a list is given
such as you require.—II. H.

11968-Churcfe decoration.— There is a little book
on Church Decoration, published by L. Upcott Gill. 170
Strand, London, W.C.— Celkr kt Akdax.

“Church Festival Decorations;” L. Upcott Gill
170, Strand, London.—H. U.

11895.— To destroy beetles— We found borax
powder to answer well in getting rid of beetles in the house
—E. P.

Captain Barlow .—The answ'er was no doubt intended for

you ; it was a printer's error in spelling your name.-

Young Beginner. —The vine leaves are affected by a black
fungus, which a little soap and water will easily remove.
——St. George—Try Messrs. Veltch and Sons, Roval Exotio

Nursery, King’s Road, Chelsea.- Toby. — Probably

Guernsey Lilies, but we cannot be sure from your descrip¬
tion.- F. H. F—The Lapogeria flower sent is what is

termed a sport. Thero is a double variety in cultivation.
The one sent is what may be termed semi-double.

Names Of plants. — T. W. Littleton Hay.— Ceanothus

azureus.- G. W. C. (KingBclere)—Traveller’s Joy ;

Clematis Yitalha.- S. S .—Abutilon Boule do Niegc.-

R. II. C .—The herbaceous plant is Maclcaya cordata, and

the other is Fuchsia procumbens.-Af. F.— Euonyraus

latifolius.- Knaruborough. —I, Species of Hardy Staticc

2, Astrantia major; 3, Galega officinalis alba; 4, Not In

flower.- J.H. Mau\— Lycium barbarum (Tea Plant).—

H. C. Ewell.— Next week. 1, Inula Conyza; 2, Erigeron

acris ; 3, Campanula glomerata; 4, AJuga chamaepitvs.-

A. //—Campanula pumila alba.- Alpha. —1, Ceph&laria

procera ; 2, Solidago canadensis.-Af. P—White Beam

Tree (Pyrus Aria) ; berries not harmful.-//. G— Salvia

Grahami.- R. A. B .—1, 2, and 8, Varieties of Artemisia

vulgaris ; 4, Salvia pratensis.- P. II— Next week.-

M. /i—Spiranthes autumnalis.- C. Littlefield.— Vallota

purpurea.- R. A. Albright.— Smilax nmuritanica (hardy

against a wall).- C. M. F.— Nephrolepis exnltata.-

A. D. A. —1, Funkia lanceolata ; 2. Apparently Athyrium
fllix-foemina ; 8. Anchusa sempervirens ; 4. Send in flower.

It is probably Melissa officinalis, one of the Balms.- E.

Reader.—A Bpecies of Crinum; not sufficient material to

name.-Af. L. G. E .—Abelia rupestris.- Newcastle.—

Both varieties Cupressus Lawsomana-IF. M. F.— 1,

Echinops ruthcnicus; 2, Species of Lobelia ; S, Solidago

canadensis ; 4, Lythrum Salicaria.- E. D.— 1. Hibiscus

syriacus fl.-pl. ; 2, Lcycesteria formosa ; 3, Ligustrum

chinense.- E. B.— Apparently Pyrus torminalis.-

T. B .—1, Calandrinia speciosa ; 2, Probably Night-scented

Stock (Mathiola tristis) ; much withered.- G. Af.

Stewart.— Ipomsa Bona-nox, a stove plant propagated by

seeds.-5'. E. Cooper.— The box only contained one

specimen, and it is Impatiens glanduligcra.- R. F. De

Salic. —Salvia Horminura.-Af. F. I. —Clematis Flam*

mula.- W. E. Watts.— Salvia Grahami.- Tanny Fern.—

Cerastium tomentosum.- Vara. —Hibiscus rosa sinensis.

- Mrs. Wright.— Wild Persicary (Polygonum Fagopy-

rum).- Twyford. —Pulicaria vulgaris.- T. Graham.—

Next week.-./. F. S. G. —Probably Viburnum pruni-

folium, cannot be certain without flowers.

Names of fruit— M. E. ShemTd.—h\\ the fruits vou

send are the Chaumontel Pear.- A. C. H. 0.—Red

common Cyder Apple, no other use ; yellow Keswick’s
Codling, one of the host early cooking Apples, good bearer

generally.-IF. E. Mvsson.— All very common, and

apparently of no use. Tried to find OHfc from all good
judges of Apples in Covent Garden. Sco our notices to
correspondents.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.—AH communications
for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side o f the paj^er only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Purlisokr. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition fo any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity of
Gardkkinq going to press a considerable time before the day
Of publication, 1 1 is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again

Naming plants.— Four plants, fruits, or flowers only
can be named at one time, and this only when good
specimens are sent. We do not undertake to name varieties
of florists! flowers, such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, Azaleas,
as these can only be correctly named by a specialist Who
has the means of comparison at hand. Any communica¬
tion respecting plants or /lowers sent to name should always
accompany the parcel

12040— Grapes cracking— Could any of your
readers kindly give me some little advice how to remedy
the following defects in my vinery ? I have a Yinery not
heated and have this year a very good crop of Black
Hamburgh Grapes in one part of the house ; but I observe
manv of the Grapes are cracking as soon os they begin to
swell, this causes the bunch to mould, and spoils the
appearance, and also wastes a good many of the Grapes.
In former years they have cracked a littlo, but not so much
as this year. Also at the north end of tho house I have a
couple of the same vines as mentioned al>ove, and they
have produced no fruit for years, although the wood is as
sound and healthy as the other that has the good crop upon
them. The house is about 30 feet long and ventilated at
the back with three ventilators, ard also windows in front
which are opened when the house is very hot. The border
was well manured a year ago with old turf noil and bores,
the non beariagpart getting its sha re of this. I will be
glad to hear of a remedy for either defect. As they crack
most at the tep of the house where the heat is most execs-

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Sept. 27, 1884.

give I expect it may bo this which causes them to crack.—
O. R. C.

12041.—Bulba for next sprlnar.— We are leaving the
house where we now live early next year. Will someone
kindly tell me what to do with my early spring bulbs?
Must I put them into the ground or keep them dry and
break off the sprits when they come ?— Martha.

12042.—Vegetable Marrows turning: yellow-
—My Vegetable Marrows nearly all turn yellow and drop
off as soon as the flowers have died. Will someone give mo
the reason for it?— Martha.

12043.— Large Sunflower.— I have at the present
time a Sunflower bloom which measures 3 feet 4 inches
round It. Will you kindly inform me if that is not an un¬
usual size. Perhaps some of your numerous corre¬
spondents will kindly give me their experience.—W. J. A.

12044.—Nomad.— Whoro could I obtain manure from
" Moule’s Earth Clos-ts,” and is it suitable for flower grow¬
ing? I understand that it is sold in cakes.—N omad,
12045.—Propagratlng double Nasturtiums.—
I should feel obliged if someone would tell me how to pro¬
pagate double Nasturtiums.—W. F.

12046.—Sturt Pea from Australia.— Has any
reader gTown the Sturt Pea from Australia, and can they
tell anything of its habits and proper treatment? It i's
said to be very beautiful.—F. G.

12047.— Drying Everlasting flowers.— Will some¬
one kindly give directions for stiffening the stalks of
“ everlastings ” in drying?— Woodlands.

12048.— Culture Of Palms.— Will someone kindly
give me directions for the successful treatment of the
Palm, Areca Bauorii? I haveono'which is not happv. The
leaves are brown and withered at the tips, and it has not

§ rown in the least since last autumn It is in a pot in a
welling-room, where we have no gas. Is it a delicate
Palm ?— Vara.

12049.— Mildew in open air.— Would someone
kindly inform me of a remedy for mildew in open air on
Roses ? It is very prevalent hero this year.—W. T.

12050.—Carnations and Phloxes lor show.—
Would some correspondent kindly give me the names of
six good Carnations or Picotccs and the best time to plant,
so that I can have them for exhibition about the 1st of
September next year; also six good varieties of Phloxes ?
Should I buy plants or sow the seeds, and at what time, to
havo them for same date as above ?— Subscriber.

12051.— Heating a small greenhouse.— Any infor¬
mation as to the best and most economical means of
warming a greenhouse (lean -to). 12 feet by 8 feet, and 9 feet
high at back, will bo thankfully received. I should like
not only to keep out the frost, but to have it sufficiently
warm for flowers to bloom during the winter, and as I am
away from home during the day, a boiler that would not
require attention for ten to twelve hours would bo desirable.
—Bromptonian.

12062.— Storing Apples. —In storing Apples in
layers, is it necessary to put Rtraw between each layer?
Tho only places I have for Btoring Apples arc a tool-house
in the garden (about 5 feet square), a small, dark, under¬
ground cellar, and on attic. Would anyono tell me which
is best ?— Amateur.

12053.— Window boxes.— I Bhould be much obliged
for advice respecting my window boxes. They aro at
present filled with Geraniums, Marguerites, and Ivy-leaved
Geraniums. The Marguerites have done blooming and
arc beginning to look rather weedy, but the Geraniums
arc still in flower and look well. Would it be possible to
replace the Marguerites with some kind of dwarf Chrysan¬
themums, and, if so, which would bo the best kind?
Must the Marguerites be thrown away, or would they have
any chance of living through the winter in pots in the
house? In the spnng I should liko to have Hyacinths,
Crocuses, Ac., in the boxes. Must they be planted in boxes
now, or would itdoto plant the bulbs in pots in the house and
transplant them in the spring ? The windows look south
and west respectively.—A lphabet.

12054.— Roses for London garden —Would you
kindly let me know through your Journal what bush and
standard Roses will grow in a London garden ? Tho garden
is very sunny and near Primrose Hill, pretty well out of
the smoke. Also what treatment do they require? Will
a Rose, and what kind, grow up the house?—B anksia.

12055.— Australian Grass birds.— Seeingin Garden-
ino that a lady amateur bird breeder kindly offers to
answer any questions on the management of birds, might
ask if she knows of any cure for an Australian Grass bird
that I have ? It was a very fine handsome bird when I
bought it, and about Christmas time began, as I thought,
to moult; in two or three months It had scarcely a feather
on it, and has been in the same state ever sinoo. I am
sure there are no insects In tho cage, and tho other bird is
perfectly well. I feed tho birds on Millet and Canary seed,
and lately I have put a little Saffron into the water to
see if that would do any good. I should bo so much
obliged if I could hear of anything to do the poor
creature good. It seems cheerful, but looks frightful.—
L. E. C. L.

12056.— Keeping Geraniums in winter —naving
heard that Geraniums may be taken out of their pots ana
hung up in a cellar to keep through the winter, would
someone please inform me if it will injure the plants, and
if any other plants may be treated in tho samo way ?—
G. H. S.

12057.— Single Dahlias.— What is tho boat way of
keeping tho roots of singlo Dahlias through the winter?
I have cold pits, but no heat, and no cellars. I have a fine
plant of Cactus Dahlia, but it has not flowered. Can any¬
ono toll me the reason ?—M. E. B.

1205S. —Peaches from seed.— I am much obliged

will inform me as to the best time of year for planting the
stones, whether now or in the spring. Also can the trees
b© raised in the open air, or must they l»e indoors, or in a
frame? In the event of their being budded, how must
this be accomplished, and on what stocks ?—Nelson.

12069.—Madresfleld Court Grape cracking.—

1 shall be obliged if any reader can acquaint me with the
means of preventinafth^ above Grape 1 tj rom cracking.—

a by VjO QIC

12060.— Stove for greenhouse.— Can any corre¬
spondent inform me what sized stove I shall require to
exclude frost from a lean-to greenhouse 8 feet by 6 feet
6 inches, and 8 feet 6 inches high at back? There are
some advertised with hot-water pipes attached ; I should
prefer one of them. Any information from readers who
havo tried them will be acceptable.— Mancuniensis.

12061.— Perpetual Roses.— Will any correspondent
kindly tell me now long the seed of Perpetual Roses takes
to germinate? I sowed Borne procured from Sutton’s on
August 19th, oovered with glass, and gave a gentle bottom
heat, but there is nothing to be seen yet.— Nelson.

12062.—Hardy plants for border.—I shall be glad
of any suggestions for making and planting a bonier,
100 feet long and 12 feet wide, with hardy perennials ? Also
where could I get suitable plants at a moderate price?
Like many other people, I am tired of “bedding plants.”
This year they were scorched up. Our garden is too large
for general watering. Wo have thousands of plants, and
in this climate they never repay for the trouble they
require.—E. Selby, Yorkshire.

12063.— Bulbs for spring blooming.— Will some¬
one tell me what bulbs 1 can plant now for spring bloom¬
ing out of doors ; also what soil different kinds require ?
What seeds, too, can I plant now for a nice display next
summer? I have a cold frame and heated greenhouse.
When is the time for planting different sorts of Lilies, in¬
doors and outdoors? Having good convenience I am
anxious to have a nice display, but scarcely know how to
set about it.— Constant Reader.

12064.— Mushroom spawn.— Will any reader inform
me how to make first-class Mushroom spawn ; and can it
be mode at any time of the year ?—J. B.

12065.— Rose Chesbunt hybrid.— Will someone
say how to prune a strong plant of Cheshunt hybrid Rose?
It is several years old, with long shoots, against the glass,
facing west, planted out in a large, oool greenhouse.—
T. C. H.

12066.— Fruit o2 Passion-flower. -I have been
wonderfully successful with the Passion-flower this season,
and my two plants aro covered with fruit. I shall be
much pleased if you or one of vour many readers can tell
me if this fruit can be applied to any useful purpose.—
J. S. W.

12067.—Marvel Of Peru.— Could anyono supply me
with directions for the cultivation of Marvel of Peru, and
the preservation of its roots in winter? I had once a fine
variety of this plant (from Tours), crimson and yellow, but
have failed to get it in England.—H. A.

12068.— Propagating frames.— Can anyone inform
me how to use one of Rippingille’s (outdoor) propagating
frames to the best advantage, as I possess one, but do not
know how to utilise it so as to make the most of it ? Can I
force bulbs in it so as to get them earlier than if in pots
without heat, and, if so, how ?— Henricus.

12069.— Violet Marie Louise.— What is tho proper
treatment of these plants at this time of year ? Should they
have surface dressing applied, and how soon should the
frame in which they are to be wintered be put upon the
beds? Will the plants flower well In boxes or pots in a cool
greenhouse ?— A. H. Farran.

12070.— Mushroom spawn.— A friend of mine had
some spawn sent him from Scotland, by which he has pro¬
duced mushrooms in fourteen days in shallow boxes of
turf soil. I should be glad if any reader could inform me
where I could get it.—A. Carr.

12071.-Gladloll.-WiU “ J. C.C." kindly explain the
meaning of “ spawn ” ? Is it the bottom root from which
the others start? Also,is it necessary to lift tho roots
every vear, or may the hardy ones be left, such as
Brenchlyensis gandavensis ?—M. C.

12072.— Bougainvillea In cool houses.— When at
Ilafod Euryn, the seat of W. Deane, Esq., I was astonished
to see on the back wall of a conservatory a Bougainvillea
glabra covered with bloom. There is no heat in the house
only when to keep out frost. The house is a letfn-to with
an east aspect, and the roof is covered with a Laconia, so
that very little rain can get on to the Bougainvillea ; and
I was informed that it is covered with bloom every year.
If some of our readers will kindly say if Clianthus punicous
would do well in such an aspect, I should be obligoa.—R. D.

12073. — Ros© Victor Verdier.— Will some reader
please say are there two Roses under this name ? If so.
name them. Aro they suitable for wall •limbers, and
which of them ? If not suitable, what apod deep-coloured
rose could I substitute? Situatioif south-west wall at
Clifton, Bristol. Soil, good mixture of garden loam and
loose clay.— Exon.

12074.—Bindweed.—Will any reader kindly tell me
the best time and way to rid a garden of what is called
Bindweed—it bears a white convolvalus-liko flower?—
Horos.

12075.—Plants for bank.— Would^tny of your experi¬
enced correspondents advise me with what 1 could best
plant up a steep sandy bank, with an eastern and northerly
exiiosure, af evergreens bearing flower. It has been planted
with a row of Pinus austriaca along top, also with double
Furze ; but these are doing indifferently, as heavy rains
wash the thin sand down. Till a week ago common brakes
covered the surface, but these havo been cut off to en¬
courage the growth of the wild Broom that is rather
abundant, os this is preferable to the bare ground. What
is the best treatment for it, or for anything more desirable,
and that would not require much attention ?— Frotex.

12070.— Keeping plants in winter.— I am thinking
of building a wooden frame twelve feet by five for winter¬
ing my bedding plants in, to be covered with glass frames
—the outer frame being of 1-inch timber. Now I want
to know if I can heat this pit or frame with a spiral boiler
and 1-inch pipe to go all round? Will a l-inch pipe
be sufficient, or shall I require a pipe of larger dimensions?
I merely want to keep out the frost to.save Geraniums,
Fuchsias, Verbenas, &c. ? I have also a good attic with a
skylight in it, but I fear I could not heat it; if I could it
would be less expensive than making the frames. I tried
it last year, but only succeeded in keeping a few plants.
Advice on the Bubject will be esteemed a favour.—
M. B. T.

12077.—Flowers in winter.—I have a greenhouse in
a northern suburb of London, near Hackney. It is heated
very slightly to maintain a temperature of 40 degs.

How, under Puch circumstances, can I havo Just a flower
or two in bloom during December, January, and Febm-
ary ? I have a few pots of Chrysanthemums (Ethel, Nar¬
cissus, Paper-white, and Roman), but do not know whether
they will bloom at the desired time. I should very much
like to grow a few Anemones in pots.—H ackney.

12078.—Apricots falling off.—I would feel obliged
if any reader in Gardrnino Illustrated could tell me the
reason of Apricots falling off, though not ripe nor fully
grown.—H. M.

12079.— Gardening for profit.—I reside in a suburb
of Birmingham, and being very* fond of a garden, it hai
occurred to me that I could rent a piece of land—say an
acre—a few miles out, and by planting the greater part of
it with fruit trees, make it pay tho rent and expenses, at
least in the course of a year or two. I should be glad of
an opinion as to whether this is practicable, what the
working expenses would be, and what kind of fruit trees
would be likely to pay best and be most easily cultivated.
—Pktrr Simple.

12080.— Rose Celine Forestier.— How should the
above Rose be managed—should it be trained flat to a wall,
and should it be much pruned, and when? We have
three trees very luxuriant os far os foliage is concerned,
but the blooms are small and few, and are only produced
at the ends of long green shoots.—A. H. Farran.

12081.— Felt for hot water pipes.— The hot water
pipes from my boiler run underground for a space of 10
feet, and thence into the vinery. I find a great deal of
heat is lost in the pipes underground. Could any readers
tell me what is best to be done with the pipes, and if then
is an imperishablo felt made to be wrapped round the
pipes in that position so as to prevent the escape of best!
—J. T.

12082.—Yellow-flowered trailing plants.-Cw
anyone recommend a good, bright yellow-flowered trailer,
something of the habit of the Sapon&ria calabrica ? T*o
years ago Sanvitalia procumbens was recommended in
‘Gardenino, and appeared to be exactly what I wanted;
but having sown nine packets of it (from welJ-kiurn
seedsmen advertising in Gardening) in various parti ol
the garden, and in boxes in the house and cold frame, and
at various times without a single plant coming up, it
appears to be of no use to try it again ; and I should be
glad to hear of something else. I have also tried Abronia
arenaria with the same result. My garden is in the North
of England, and high on hills, but well sheltered.—M. B.

12083.—Vegetables for exhibition.—I should like
to know the best kinds of the following vegetables for ex¬
hibition Cos lettuce. Broad Beans, Rod and White
Celery, Vegetable Marrow, Peas, Kidney and Round Pota¬
toes, with Instructions as to sowing, after management,
«fcc. ; also heaviest Gooseberry, and would a young tree
planted this autumn produce lruit fit for exhibition next
summer?— Exhibitor.

12084.—Onions for exhibition.—Would any reader
kindly answer me the following questions on making an
Onion bed? Tho Onions are now about 2 inches high. I
want to transplant them for exhibition. Would a piece of
land where Potatoes or Cabbages have grown be the bcst,and
should I dig it flat, ridge it, or leave it as it is, and would
soot, salt, and manure be best put in now or in spring?

Is soapsuds of any benefit? Could I use anything to help
the growth during summer, and is there anything to pre¬
vent Onion maggot that I might use either before or after
planting out? When is the best time to plant;—Ex-
uibitor.

12085.— Old Currant bushes.— What is the best
way to treat old Black Currant bushes, very large ones,
some 6 feet high and as much through ? Should I prune
them, or plant smaller ones?— Horos.

12086.— Topping Raspberry canes.-I have some
Raspberry canes 7 feet ana 8 feet high—is it advisable to
top them ?— Horos.

12087.— Apple tree not bearing. -Wbal can to
done with an Apple tree that several years ago had four
grafts put on it (an old trunk); it has made a splendid
shapely tree, but never bears ?— Horos.

SOME REASONS FOR BEING A
VEGETARIAN.

confirmed vegetarian sends the Pall Mott the follow*
r reasons for the faith that is in him in mattera

A confirmed vegetarian sends the Pall aau
ing reasons for the faith that is in him in mattera

1. ' There is first tho great thrift question, for our diej
gives equal strength and enjoyment aud far better ne

at an average of quite 50 per cent, less cost— A. per
the average cost of our dry food. ot

2. Then temperance would be a most direct

our system, for drink of every kind becomes ^

less. I may state that throughout this hot,
summer I have drunk nothing, simply /Jr

no desire for any liquids with a fruit and breid ai * ^jj

3. That crying question of “housing th 0 ]™.,. f or

resolve itself simply into one of demand and 8 pr ^ gt
the masses could afford to pay 50 per cent vnorc ^ wJon »
once, and, better still, most of our fruits and

would be employed in the country in producing itsc lf
vegetables. Thus the labour market f, irn iturc,

largely by the great increase in the demMd . (n)i ui on «
dress,'<fec., that would be certain to _y c h requires
stopped their outlay upon bacon and b«f ™ almost
so little labour to produce and the foreign m P°

none at all at this end. . lan( i question

4. The prospects of agriculture M«tne M tho

as vegetarianism grows would be v’artiyjwp.^ he mo st
demand for market garden produce aim mftrkct can be
profitable crops tho land can yield wl ) en .J; reA gc.
found) would of coureo proportionate!'' in d j m j n iBhod as

5. Cruelty to animals would natural!) w [th all

our slaughtering and sporting propen«w»

their brutalising or hardening tendencies. very

6. War, that worst of ancient adopted our

rare among self-governed peoplo nft [ arbitration

humane diet and the doctrines of intern* manner oi
would be accepted generally as this harmonious

living made progress. I Tf - Pi k vging no longer

7. Drainage and hvgieno. Live to “dopt soma

kept to suppiv food, »c should tor which it

system ot utilising our sewage for manure m

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

OCTOBER 4, 1884.

No. 291.

i

Anemone alba.

tion in saying a warm, sheltered one. Let it be
understood that I write from a cold latitude,
subject to much wet and heavy frost and Bnow.
In planting, we use the strongest and best
rooted runners. Of these we have little diffi¬
culty in getting a full supply, as we rarely cut
away the runners in spring; on the contrary,
we leave them purposely for the remaking of
our beds. Prior to planting, we put on the beds
about an inch in depth of soil and old material
from the potting-shed, which has a tendency
to promote quick root action.

On referring to my notes I find that wc did

at this season be assiduously cut off, for in
this lies the quality of the future bloom. It is
only those who have kept this part of their
culture strictly enforced who know which is
best—the cutting here commended or letting
them run semi-wild. As early as July quantities
of small deformed blooms will appear, which
immediately run to seed ; such would exhaust
the plants even more than runners, and accord¬
ingly they must be constantly pinched off.
Towards the middle of August good and well-
formed blooms will appear, and these will be
welcomed for any purpose for which they may
be required. The more they
are gathered, too, the more
will come forth in suc¬
cession, until stopped by
hard frost.

As to varieties, I find
Victoria Regina to be the
best, both as regards free¬
dom of blooming, size, and
sweetness; we also grow the
Czar, but only in the propor¬
tion of ten of the Victoria to
one of the Czar. For frame¬
work we grow the old
Neapolitan, which if well
treated will not disappoint
anyone. We prepare them
specially for framework by
planting yearly the best of
the runners on a south
aspect. This variety is ex¬
tremely fertile as respects
runners, which must, as in
the others, be kept in
check. In September or
early in October we lift
them with roots intact and
plant them in frames, allow¬
ing 8 inches between the
rows and 6 inches between
the plants. They are
blooming with us now, but
we look to spring for getting
a full supply from them.
We also grow in frames a
smaller quantity of Victoria,
which rarely fails to keep
up a succession when those
outside are frost-bound or
covered it may be with
snow.

Antrim. S. K.

VIOLETS IN AUTUMN.

But few, I apprehend, grow
too many Violets. I know
of no other flower that is
such a universal favourite,
if, perhaps, we except the
Lily of the Valley. Just
now our beds are beginning
to flower profusely. We
generally gather blooms
from them during nine
months out of the twelve
— i.e., provided the winter
is mild. There are few
plants that are more
grateful for a little kindly
and timely attention than
Violets. As soon as they
go out of flower, which
will be early in May—a
little earlier or later, accord¬
ing to locality and aspect
—the plants should be
entirely taken up, the
ground well dug and enriched with some
old, well-rotten manure—that from old hot¬
beds answering admirably; until this opera¬
tion is completed and the beds reformed, the
plants should be carefully heeled in in order
that the roots may be kept fresh. We
make our beds 4 feet wide, five rows are
put in each bed, and the plants stand some
10 inches or 12 inches asunder. Our earliest
flowering and principal beds are on a warm
Eouth border, where they are partially shaded
from the midday sun. We plant in shade and
cold borders for succession, but the latter cannot
compare with those on the more favoured aspect,
either as regards quantity or quality of bloom.
There are those who advocate the planting of
Violets in shady places. Certainly their native
habitat is the shady hedge-side or the still more
shady wood. * I have, however, found them on
the sunburnt copse, but they looked as if they
were from home. Whenever I have been asked
what aspect suits thenphest, I have n| hesita-

Digitized by UjQOQIC

not make our new beds until the last day in
May this year. It is sometimes well to wait a
week or even a fortnight beyond the usual
time of planting in order to get strong and well-
rooted runners, as goed healthy runners are half
the battle, and there is no treatment one can
give either a weak runner or a cutting of any
plant that can beat or equal the parent as
regards strength-giving ; therefore, wait, fis I
have said, until good runners can be pot.
When planting is finished, water with a tine-
rosed pot to settle the soil, and during the next
three months, if the weather is dry, water
attentively and keep a sharp out-look for red
spider, which, if it once gets a footing, is rather
hard to get rid of. The best way I find is to
have a small quantity of insecticide in some
handy vessel and to carefully go over every
plant and dip them. By timely attention to
this little or no harm will be the result. When¬
ever the plants commence to grow they natu¬
rally throw out quantities of runners, which must

Antirrhinums. — The
value of these from a
gardening view is easily
conceived and generally
acknowledged. They arc
ornaments suitable for
almost every situation out
of doors. The beds of the
flower garden, the borders
of the shrubbery vases,
rock work, ruins, or even old
walls alike may bo made verdant at all times,
and truly beautiful through the autumnal months
by means of them ; nor are they more particular
in choice of soil than of situation, only requiring
that it be not excessively wet. Established
plants may remain three or four years in the
same place, or indeed until they become too
large, with no further care than cutting off the
old flower-stems and spreading a little mulch
about their roots, when the borders are dug.
By not allowing the decayed flowers to remain
on the plant, we have always a second and some¬
times a third crop of flowers each season ; in
short, Antirrhinums are anybody’s flowers who
will give them room to grow.—A. D. W.

Echevoria metallica.— Wc keep up our
stock of this plant in a very simple manner.
About the beginning of October, when it is no
longer safe to leave plants of it in the flower
beds, or wherever they have stood during the
summer, they afe takeh tip, the bottom leaves

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

ANEMONE ALBA.

This is one of the prettiest and most distinct
of all the summer bloomiDg species of Wind¬
flower, bearing pure white flowers on stems
a foot in height, much resembling those of
Clematis montana. It is allied to Anemone
dichotoma, a North American species, hav¬
ing smaller flowers also white, but purplish
behind, introduced so long ago as 1768.
Our present species is a more showy plant of
spreading habit, and was
introduced from Siberia in
1S20. Our sketch shows
A. alba, natural size. It
blooms naturally during
June and July, thus bridg¬
ing over the hiatus which
otherwise would exist be¬
tween the spring blooming
kinds and the autumn-
flowering varieties of A.
japonica and A. vitifolia.

A peculiarity of A. alba is
that its achenes or fruits
are quite devoid of the wool
or fluffy covering which
in general covers the ripe
seeds of Anemones of this
section, so that in this
species the seed heads are
precisely like those of the
common Buttercup (Ranun¬
culus acris) — a compact
globular mass of smooth
achenes. A. alba grows
freely in all soils, and de¬
serves culture for the sake
of its numerous pure white
Buttercup-like blossoms.

362

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 4, 1884.

about two-thirds of its length. The roots and
the lower part are then thrown away, and the
other part, consisting of the crown and several
well-developed leaves, is potted singly in 7-inch
pots in rather light sandy soil. They are then
placed on a stage in a greenhouse, and, by keep¬
ing the soil rather dry, there is no danger of the
stem decaying before roots are emitted. In
fact, it takes but four or five weeks to get the
tops re-established with a fair amount of roots,
and then with care in watering, for they must
be kept rather dry than wet, and in a light airy
position through the winter, they will be dwarf,
compact plants with plenty of leaves in spring,
and be fit to do duty during the summer in any
situation in which they may be required. It
must be understood that by this plan we do
not increase our stock—it simply keeps our
plants on short legs ; whereas we must either
raise a fresh stock of plants to have them dwarf,
or be content with specimens with long naked
stems.—J. C. C.

Cineraria maritima.— This is one of the
best of the silvery-leaved bedding plants, and,
moreover, quite hardy in most parts of the
kingdom. It is readily increased from seed,
which, if sown in heat in February, and if the
young plants are pricked off into boxes as soon
as large enough to handle, they will be in good
condition for putting out in May. Associated
in the form of an edging with dark-leaved
plants this Cineraria has an excellent effect. It
may also be increased by cuttings. Young soft
shoots that spring from the base strike root
more readily than the tops of the plants, the
wood of which is hard and tough. I find this
plant to assume a whiter tint in poor sandy soil
than in such as is very rich. In summer this
Cineraria may be effectively employed as an
edging to beds of Coleus Verschaffelti or
Iresines, and in winter it looks well along with
dark-leaved shrubs in beds, vases, or window
boxes. Berberis Aquifolium, which assumes a
deep bronzy tint in winter, and the feathery-
foliaged Cryptomeria elegans make good subjects
with which to associate it, and as a pot plant
for cool houses it is one of the beat to employ
for toning down the glaring effects that brilliant
colours in masses produce. Good large plants
of it may be grown in small pots ; in fact, when
pot-bound and full of roots its foliage is the most
silvery.—J. G. H.

Pentstemons. —These are amongst the most
useful of all border flowers. They begin to
bloom in June and July, and many of them
are bright and attractive until November.
They may be increased by means of cuttings put
in in the autumn ; dibble them into sandy soil
along the bottom of a wall or hedge, and transfer
them to the borders in spring. Another way
is to allow the old plants to grow on year after
year in the same place, and thus managed they
bloom earlier and more profusely than cuttings
are capable of doing the first season.—J. M.

Michaelmas Daisies.—I do not think that
the value of Michaelmas Daisies, either for
general effect, or for the purpose of supplying cut
bloom at this season, is nearly so well known as
it should be. They are old-fashioned plants,
certainly, but none the worse for that, and they
not only grow but flower, and that profusely,
almost anywhere and anyhow. There are a
great many varieties of these, the perennial
Asters, and some are certainly not so useful as
others; but a few sprays of any of the kinds
mentioned below, laden with their pratty, star-
like flowers, add a most welcome lightness to
the effect of a bunch of double or even single
Dahlias, Asters, or any such comparatively
heavy flowers as we have chiefly to depend
upon just now. And what a lot of cutting
there is from even one good-sized plant ! They
will grow, and flower, too, upon any kind of
soil, light or heavy, in sun or shade, in town or
country. A good open position is naturally
most advisable, with a sound and fairly
enriched soil, and in such a position a good
plant of Aster lams, polyphyllus, or versicolor
is really a grand sight. Some of the varieties
best worth growing are : A. lams, bluish lilac,
with golden centre, a most profuse flowering
kind, growing 3 to 4 feet in height; A. formo-
sissimus, rosy purple, 4 feet; A. polyphyllus,
with abundance of rather small white flowers,
5 feet, fine for cutting ; A. versicolor, white,
shading to rose, very free, 3 feet; A. Novse
Anglia?, clear lilac jnqk, deep yellpw centre,

large flowers, 5 feet; A. Novi Belgii, large
bluish purple flowers, very showy, 5 to 6 feet;
A. alpinus, lavender blue, orange centre, large
flowers, very dwarf, about 2 feet; A. pyre-
na?us, large pale blue, early, 2 feet. The
taller growing kinds make admirable back-row
plants in a herbaceous border, and I can
strongly recommend the whole genus to all
lovers of hardy herbaceous plants.—B. C. R.

The Torch Lilies. —The Tritomas are so
effective during the fruity autumn time that
they deserve more attention than they have
hitherto received. I think florists might do
worse than turn their attention to these brilliant
Torch Lilies or Flame Flowers. They grow
quite readily from spring-sown seeds, and in
this way variety may be gained, albeit that
there are, even at the present time, six or eight
distinct varieties of T. Uvaria alone, to say
nothing of the other species known to be dis¬
tinct. Of the smaller kinds, T. Macowani and
T. pumila are most effective in flower, while for
bold habit and breadth of glaucous leafage T.
coerulescens is one of the best. All the varieties
of T. Uvaria are well suited for massing in beds
or borders along with Aralias, Acanthus, or
with bold masses of Yuccas, especially Y.
flaccida, which blooms so freely, or with Arundo
conspicua or Silver-plumed Reed.

Senecio epeciosus.— One of the most
showy objects at the present time in a mixed
border of herbaceous plants is this Senecio,
which flowers continuously for three months,
and continues to till cut off by frost. The seeds
of ours were sown in spring and placed in a
greenhouse, where they soon germinated, and
when the young plants were large enough to
handle they were potted off. By the middle of
May they were planted out, and soon com¬
menced to flower, but the colour of the blooms
was a sort of washed-out lilac. Those partly
expanded were purplish magenta, but a few
hours of sunshine sufficed to reduce them to the
same dull hue of the others, and little if any
improvement was seen during the hot weather.
When autumn set in the flowers retained their
bright colouring long after they were fully ex¬
panded, and were then very useful in a cut
state, as they keep good a long time in water.
As a summer-flowering plant with me this
Senecio is of little value, as besides its dull-
coloured flowers, the Groundsel-like heads of
seeds, which are produced so freely, give it at
best a weedy look. Moreover, it often dies off
in an unaccountable way, many of our plants
dying when full of flower ; but still, those that
remained are now very pretty. This Senecio
can be kept throughout the winter in a green¬
house, but the most satisfactory way is to treat
it as an annual. Seeds can bo obtained in great
numbers, but they do not retain their germi¬
nating power well beyond the following spring.

Oxalis lutea. —I do not think that this is
much grown ; I never came across it nor see
mention made of it. It is probably of too weedy
a character to be a favourite with many, but it
certainly has charms which should entitle it to
some consideration. The flowers are bright
yellow, and produce quite a striking effect in
the full sun, especially in the case of a mass of
them a yard or so square. Once established, it
seeds so abundantly that it is sure to come up
freely every year and at varying times, so that
there is always a patch in bloom through the
summer and autumn.—J. C. B.

Large Sunflowers. — In Gardening
Illustrated of the 20th ult. I read “Nita’s”
description of a wonderful Sunflower 10 feet
high, and the flower being 42 inches in circum¬
ference. Having some very fine flowers in
my garden, it induced me to measure the largest,
and the result is 17£ inches in diameter, or over
52 inches in circumference, thereby beating
“ Nita’s ” favourite by 1 foot. I noticed last
year in Gardening that some very grand Sun¬
flowers were to be seen in the Isle of Wight,
about 15i inches in diameter, and I was proud
to find I had one of 16 inches, and it is from the
seed of this one that I have raised its superior.
Both were grown in a sheltered corner of the
garden, facing south, and were liberally treated
with Amies’ chemical manure and well watered
daily ; when cut off the flower weighed 2£ lb.,
and as the centre seeds are not fully developed
it might have been larger had the sparrows
given mo more time, but not wishing to lose such
good seed I cut it off.—I. B. S., DawlUh,

11954.— Coreopsis lanceolata —This is
a hardy perennial, and is one of the finest hardy
flowers in cultivation. The flowers are not
unlike the annual Coreopsis, but are much
larger, and are of a clear bright yellow,
exhibiting none of the coarseness which charac¬
terises so many hardy yellow flowers. When
doing well it attains a height of about 3 feet,
and forms a rather compact bush from 18 inches
to 3 feet, which, when covered with flowers,
presents a most attractive appearance. It
may be raised from seed, but is commonly
propagated by division of the old stool. It
prefers a well-stirred, rather light loam, but is
not at all fastidious as regards soil. Plant in
October or early spring. Fine for cutting from.

—Byfleet.

12013.— Storing Dahlia tubers. — The
best way to dry Dahlia tubers, prior to stowing
them away, is to choose a dry day for lifting
them. If it cannot be found practicable to dry the
tubers by that means, remove them to a dry airy
room or shed for a few days before placing
them where they are to stay for the winter. I
have not tried storing the roots in sawdust, but
I have tried them in peat, in coal-ashes, and in
dry earth, and in each case I have suffered con¬
siderable loss. I have, for the last three years,
used no'bedding or covering material at all, with
much more satisfactory results. This I have
adopted from a friena, an old Dahlia grower.
Last season I stowed away in this manner, in a
dry cellar, over 130 roots (single and double),
and when they were taken out in the spring
there were only two or three unsound ones
among the lot. It is rather a paradoxical fact
that whilst the Dahlia tuber, after taken from
the ground, will succumb to a small amount of
moisture hanging about the collar, yet, if
allowed to remain in the ground, if covered
with asheB and the soil is not too wet and cold,
it generally passes through the winter un¬
scathed. A friend of mine has Dahlias now in
bloom which have not been removed from the
place they now occupy for thirteen years. In
the very cold winter of 1880-SI there was a
large manure heap placed over the roots of
several of the Dahlias, and I remarked at the
time that they would be sure to be destroyed , but
when the spring came they all came up, whilst
several of those that were not covered with the
manure had succumbed to the severity of the
season. This was in the South of England.—

L. C. K.

- When the tops have been killed by

frost, dig up the tubers on a dry day;
after cutting the stems about 6 inches above
the ground lay them down with the tubers
uppermost to allow the water to drain out
of the roots. Leaf-mould, sand, or dry earth
would be better to store them in than saw¬
dust, although that material would answer
the purpose. They should not be stored away
until they are moderately dry.—J. D. E.

12022 and 12038.— Treatment of Holly¬
hocks.— The seeds should be sown in May or
June in order to produce flowering plants for
the following season. They should be pricked
out about 6 or 9 inches apart until they are of
considerable size. In August or September
plant them out 3 feet apart on rich deep soil.
They will flower strongly the following season.
Plants propagated late in the spring flower late
or not at all the same season. The best way is to
purchase the plants now and keep them in pots
through the winter, in a frame or greenhouse,
and plant them out where they are to flower
about the end of April or early in May; they
will all flower well in August and September.

—J. D. E.

12022.—Hollyhock and other flowers.

—Hollyhock should be sown in April either
in the open ground or in pots, in a frame or
greenhouse. The latter way is preferable,
pricking out the young plants when large enough
to handle into pots, just sheltering them from
heavy rains, and planting them out later on in
good full soil. Thus managed they will bloom
the following year. Of showy flowers demand¬
ing but little care, some of the most promi.nent
are Delphiniums, Pyre thrums, Clematises,
Primroses, bulbs of many kinds, notably Tuhps,
Daffodils, Snowdrops and Crocuses, Lilies, such
as the Tiger, the Orange, the old white and
the Japan varieties, Campanula persicifolia
alba, Lychnis viscaria F.plenaens, scarlet Geum,
Fuchsiaj, Anemones, such as fulzens and

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Oct. 4, 1884]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

363

v

f*

>

japonica, Funkias, Aubrietias, Daisies, Hepaticas,

( hristrnas Roses, and many others. Procure
plants in October, and plant in well-stirred
aoil. Read Gardening regularly, there have
lately been some excellent articles on hardy
flowers therein.— Byfleet.

12031. — Pansies for exhibition. —In
reply to “W. Y. B.,” according to our rules
neither gum or any other adhesive substance is
allowed to be used in exhibiting Pansy blooms.
A bloom that is either eaten or split in the
petals would not be disqualified, but it would
be passed over in favour of a complete bloom
inferior in quality. If “ W. Y. B. will sand
me a stamped envelope I shall be happy to send
a copy of our rules, and the properties of show
and fancy Pansies. I mention the stamped
envelope because last Bpring I offered to send
rules to any one interested in Pansies. This
offer cost me several shillings in stamps.—
Thomas H. Davis (Secretary Pansy Society),
Southxccll, Notts.

11983.— Single Dahlias. —My experience is
that single Dahlias flower better than double
ones. They want to be treated well, plenty of
old manure dug well in about the roots, and
liquid manure given once a week. During a
summer like the one we have just gone through
the plant ought to be watered all over the head
with soft water each evening. I am sorry I can¬
not give “ J. W.” the name of a good sulphur
coloured one, but Lutea grandiflora is a most
pleasing yellow. White Queen, Mauve Queen, (
and Rob Roy (scarlet) are good kinds.— Owen.

12034.—Dahlias from seed.— Sown In heat in Feb¬
ruary or March, Dahlias will, i! grown along freely, and
carefully hardened off in May, bloom very well the same
year, hut they are said to be more floriferous if kept in
pots the first season and planted out the next They may
be left the winter in the ground, but must have quite
4 inches of covering to keep frost away.—J. C. B.

-Sow the seeds in February in a hotbed. The plants

will flower the following autumn. When the tutors aic
taken upthey must bo put somewhere out of the reach of
frost. They would keep through the winter in a coach¬
house if it is frost proof.—J. D. E.

12011.— PIcotees dying off.—Tho cause is either
wireworm at the roots or a serious swelling in the stem
close to the surface of the ground. If wireworm is the
cause the cure will be to plant in soil that does not con¬
tain any. If it is a swelling in the stem, which is termed
" gout by Carnation growers, the plants will, with good
treatment, grow out of it.—J. D. K.

What amateurs can do.—A few days
ago I had the pleasure of visiting an amateur’s
garden, and was greatly gratified by the highly
successful manner in which many of the plants
were cultivated. Pleasantly situated in a
beautiful and fertile strath in Perthshire, this
garden is a source of great pleasure to its
owner. The whole atmosphere was laden with
a sweet, refreshing odour from Roses, Carna¬
tions, Night-scented Stocks, &c. In front of
the house is a neat square of Grass, with bedB
cut out in a simple design, and filled with choice
favourites. Here was a bed of the old Crimson
Clove Carnation edged with a pure white, de¬
liciously-scented variety; there another filled
"with Virginian Stocks, and so on, each being
tastefully filled with various suitable subjects.
But what is this ? An Agapanthus—aye 1 and a
beauty, too, with fine umbels, the smallest at
least 6 inches in diameter ; and all around this,
in sweet disorder, are smaller specimens—one a
seedling, which, brought up from its infancy,
has this season rewarded its cultivator by
producing a nice head of pale lavender-coloured
flowers. In a shady corner were a group of
C&ll&s (Lily of the Nile), a real amateurs flower,
and if huge leaves and robust health are pre¬
cursors of fine flowers, there can be no doubt of
the future of these. The borders are well filled
with a variety of flowering plants—Gladioli,
Gaillardiaa, Geraniums, Ac.—while the walls
are covered with choice climbers. But this is
not all. In the lobby we find a group of Ferns,
Begonias, and Pelargoniums, and several win¬
dows are occupied by stands contojping nice
Crassulaa (Kalosanthes), Fuchsias, Tuberous
Begonias, Geraniums, Ac., while hanging
baskets of Tradescantia gave a refined grace
and beauty to the whole. With Gardeni.no
for a guide, a genial climate as an assistant,
and a love for the plants, obstacles have been
surmounted and success obtained, a success
which should stimulate others to persevere
in this healthy and pleasure-giving pastime.—
W. L. 1

Digitized by LjQOQlC

INDOOR PLANTS.

CLIMBER FOR COOL GREENHOUSE
(Physianthus Alurns).

This little known plant bears some resemblance . ,

to the Stephanotis, the leaves being leathery I credlble *° hear that the plants have had
deep green in colour, and tho flowers white and ain S ,e 1 degree of artificial heat since they

things they really are. At all events it is a
very common thing to hear from visitors in my
conservatory some such remark as, “They arc
very beautiful, but they need so much heat anti
care, don’t they ?” And then it seems scarcely
credible to hear that the plants have had not a
Jingle degree of artificial heat since they were
potted, no shade even during the almost
scorching weather we have experienced lately

tubular. It, moreover, belongs to the same
family as the Stephanotis. It is a native of the
province of St. Paul, in “

introduced to our gardens >uu jemn <»ku. m ■ T y,, , » , ra¬
the warmer parts of the country this plant is I 1 wl11 now . P ro ?® e d 8 lv ? a snort account of

jh to survive our winters out of

J. It is a native of the we navo experienced lately,

Brazil, and was first f? d th ® do< T 8 a11 opmed and a draught right
i thirty years ago. In th ? ,u ^ the hoU8e al ] da y lon g-

. . I I Will now nrnneiwl fo mrn a _4.

hardy enougL — >-••••« muwn um ui i.i , , ... *—

doors, but it docs not flourish so well as when . «y°“«.who likes may “g<

planted in an nnheated house. At Pendell WI8e ’ P rem 3 ®tog my remarks b;

Physianthus albens.

manner in which our plants are treated, so
;o and do like-
_ y stating that

my garden is situated in the heart of a very
thickly populated suburb of London, surrounded
by high buildings, and where at times we suffer
greatly from the smoke of the neighbouring
manufacturing districts of Greenwich and Dept¬
ford. Under these circumstances it is needless
to say that the plants do not grow as strong,
nor the flowers attain the same size, as they
would do in purer air ; yet we frequently have
flowers measuring from 4 to 5 inches from tip
to tip, and though they drop from tho plants
rather soon after expanding, yet we have
always a good show. We grow very few named
varieties, the plants are nearly all seedlings of
our own raising, taken just as they come. The
house in which we find the Begonias do best is
a rather steep-roofed span, about 50 feet long,
with a lattice stage on either side, and no venti¬
lators whatever but a door at each end. These
are opened first thing in the morning and re¬
mains so till nearly nightfall, so that there is a
constant current of air through and around the
ilanta. This makes them bo strong that the
looms do not scorch on even the hottest days,
with no protection from the sun but an occa¬
sional very slight spiiakling of whitening and
water on tho glass. In low, close houses,
with but little air apace, the blooms will
not stand even a moderate amount of sunshine,
and even if shaded they flag badly. Abundance
of air is, without doubt, one of the most impor¬
tant points in the production of fine plants and
blooms. Old plants are usually wintered in the
pots and soil they occupied the previous season,
kept dry and safe from frost. We usually give
them a very gentle warmth to start them, and,
when fairly growing, repot. Seedlings must,
of course, be raised in heat, and do better w ith
a little after being pricked off; but once get
them in single pots, however Bmall, in May or
June, and no fire-heat is needed.

Soil and potting are two very important
points. While small, a mixture of light, sweet
leaf-mould, sand, and roughishloam undoubtedly
suits them best; but for larger plants a more
loamy soil gives a stronger growth and more
vigour. A light, rich soil, such as leaf-mould,
produces a quicker growth, and, perhaps,
slightly larger blooms, but the plants run out so
soon in such light stuff, while in a heavier staple
they become much sturdier and last twice the
time. The nature of the compost must be care¬
fully studied. A fine sandy soil that is inclined
to run together and become pasty will not Buit
the plants at all. It must be thoroughly porous
—that is, must be either very turfy, or, better,

I think, of a lumpy character, and not broken
or worked up too fine. The Shooters Hill loam
we get in this neighbourhood is capital in this
respect, and suits Begonias admirably. Add to
this about a third part of good, flaky leaf-mould
or half-decayed Hops, a very little okl decayed
fair sprinkling of coarse
3-grained), ana you have
about the best compost possible. When potting,
place about three pieces of crock in the bottom

SSwtaSffliV goo t “ r s r-

winter. Treated fn °f the soil (whichimust on,no account bo sifted),

or some sweet old Hops, then fill in round your

S lant, just firming the aoil in with the fingers.
»f course, the older and larger plants are, the

winter. Treated in this way it forms a most
attractive and elegant plant from the end of
summer till late in autumn. It flowers con¬
tinuously from the early part of September till
the end of October.

NOTES ON BEGONIAS.

A good deal has been written about tuberous
Begonias of late, but I do not think we have
heard too much about them yet, for I find there
are still a great many people even near London
— people who are fond of flowers and gardening,
too—who hardly know what they are, and, still
more, who regard them ns delicate exotics, in¬
stead of the hardy, useful, profuse-flowering

firmer they should be potted, but never pot
| hard.

Watering. —Never let the soil get very dry,
or the blooms will drop and the vigour be lost
for a time, at least. One even degree of mode¬
rate moisture should be aimed at as nearly as
possible. Always see that the stems and leaves
are dry by nightfall, otherwise damping may
occur. When the pots are full of roots some
clear liquid manure) upgys be given twice a week
with advantage.

LWiilrV^^.-tlAiwore.UgW'iie^Trc.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

i

364

GARDENING ILL USTILiTED

[Oct. 4, 1884.

ceive the better the results will be, particularly a3
regards flowering. In aheavily shaded or gloomy
spot Begonias will grow fast enough, but produce
little or no bloom. A span-roofed house is
therefore most suitable, and the lighter and
more open the position it occupies the better.

I do not mean to say that no shade should
ever be given ; on the contrary, a slight protec¬
tion from the fiercest rays of the midsummer
sun will not only benefit the blooms,, causing
them to develop more finely and remain longer
on the plants, but will be beneficial to the
foliage as well. Any such shading should, how¬
ever be readily removable, never employed
until really needed, and not be allowed to remain
on a moment longer than is necessary, and a
few hours, or even a whole day’s mild sun, will
do the plant far more good than harm.

Old tubers of Begonias planted in the open
ground grow almost like Dahlias, and produce
a wonderful quantity of fine flowers in anything
like a warm open situation and sound loamy
soil. They should be started into growth under
glass, hardened off and planted out early in
June. Seedlings of the same season planted out
makes capital sound bulbs for next year’s
growth, but do not do much more than show
their character by autumn. They should be put
out early, good sturdy, well hardened plants 3
or 4 inches high, and must be planted by the
middle of June at latest, or they will do very
little good in any way. A great deal has been
heard about Begonias standing out during the
winter, and doubtless on dry, well-drained soils
they are capable of withstanding the cold of
most English winters ; but on the whole, it is
safer and better to take the bulbs up, and if left
opt they do not start early enough to make
much of a show till the summer is pretty well
advanced.

Nothing in the whole range of horti¬
culture is more interesting than raising such
plants as Begonias from seed, especially when
you are florist enough to hybridize and saveyour
own seed. The pleasure experienced by a true
florist in watching the result of his various
crosses—3ome for colour, others for size and
form, and others again to combine these points
in various ways, always striving to get as near
perfection as possible—is unknown to all but
those who have experienced it, and though
there are many failures and accidents to con¬
tend with, yet every now and then patience is
rewarded by some almost surprising success,
and another step nearer perfection is attained.

One very good point about Begonias is that
no insects attack them, and only one disease,
a kind of rust or mildew, which plenty of air,
however, soon cures. B. C. R.

Heliotropes. —Wheresweet-scented flowers
are in demand for cutting these plants should be
grown in considerable quantities, for so accom¬
modating are they that with a warm tempera¬
ture they will keep on flowering the greater
portion of the winter; but to have them at this
season, the plants should be specially prepared.
Small examples struck from cuttings in the
spring and grown on in 6-inch or 8-inch pots,
and well hardened up by exposure to the sun
through the latter part of summer, will bloom
freely now with a temperature of 55 degs. in the
night. Old plants grown in large pots and
placed out of doors during the season will
answer equally well and furnish flowers in such
quantities as will well repay for the room they
occupy ; but in all cases they should have all the
light it is possible to give them, with a little air
on mild days, or the flowers when cut will be
more liable to flag than many other things.
These and other plants that bloom from growth
that is made during the winter are very different
from those that make growth and set their
flower-buds in summer ; with the latter winter
forcing simply causes the development of the
bloom already formed without the shoot exten¬
sion that goes on with the former description of
plants, and which, from the diminished light
and air which are present in winter, are
necessarily softer and less able to bear the hard
usage to which cut flowers are usually more or
less exposed.

Correas. —These are not so much used for
decoration for the greenhouse and conserva¬
tory during winter as they might be. In a small
state they are exceedingly handsome flowering
plants, but when grown on into the dimensions

Digitized by GOOOlC

they are known to assume in Australia, and as
they were grown by cultivators hero twenty
years ago, some of these Australian Fuchsias,
a 3 they are called in Australia, are handsome
shrubs. Where convenient, Correas thrive
best planted out in beds in a light and cool
position in the conservatory ; they are free-
growing and quick-rooting plants, and love to
be allowed to grow naturally instead of in the
tight-fitting pots in which they are generally
grown. Shrubs from 6 feet to 8 feet highland
almost as much through, with graceful twiggy
shoots and leathery leaves, and thickly covered
with red, crimson, and pure white flowers
during the greater portion of the winter months,
are really desirable subjects for conservatory de¬
coration, and Correas are all this when planted
out and treated liberally both as regards soil,
light, and water. The best of them are C. cardi-
nalis, C. Brilliant, C. ventricosa, and C. mag-
nifica.—K.

Oestrum aurantiacum.— The flowering
of this plant when grown into a large specimen
and treated liberally is almost continuous from
May to November. In the greenhouse (No. 4)
at Kew a large plant of it placed in the border
and trained up a stake reaching from the ground
to the roof is nearly always literally covered
with large pendent racemes of sweet-scented
yellow flowers. Grown thus, this plant is one
of the be 3 t of conservatory plants, especially for
flowering late in the year. At Chiswick we
have seen large quantities of this Cestrum grow¬
ing in 6-inch pots, and bearing a rich crop of
flowers. These plants have been grown on all
the season from cuttings struck in spring, and
more useful subjects for decorative work than
plants thus treated are rarely seen.

The blue Marguerite (Agathrea ccelcstis),
—This may be described as a perpetual bloomer,
for it can be had in flower all the year round ;
during winter, however, it is most attractive,
when Blue flowers are scarce. The name, blue
Marguerite, sufficiently indicates the appear¬
ance of the flower, and, like the ordinary Paris
Daisy, its flower-stalks are so long, that when
used for bouquets and similar purposes no wiring
is required. It is an old inhabitant of our green¬
houses, but it flowers freely in the open air in
summer. If, however, the flowers are picked
off as soon as visible, till the autumn, and the
plants are lifted and taken into a temperature
of from 55 degs. to 65 degs., with ordinary
care they will continue in bloom for a long time.
Its value for cutting purposes is enhanced by
the fact that as the flowers are picked they are
rapidly succeeded by others.—H. P.

Ohorozema cordatum splendens.—
This is better grown at Singleton than in any
place in which I have seen it. Plants of it in
1‘2-inch pots are 6 feet high, as much in
diameter, and a dense mass of healthy shoots.
This Chorozema is treated here in the same way
as one of the most ordinary of greenhouse plants,
and it is almost constantly in bloom. Just now
it is a mass of flower, and one of the finest
plants which can be grown for supplying cut
flowers. In times gone by it used to be a
favourite exhibition plant; but now one scarcely
ever sees it even on the tables of our great
London shows.—C.

Datura Knightii. —This is, probably, the
species which “ An old Lady ” alludes to under
tne name of Wrightii in a recent issue of
Gardening. At one time, before there was
such infinite choice of flowering plants for cool
greenhouses, it was a great favourite, and it still
remains one of the fairest of cultivated flowers.
When it can have sufficient space it assumes
tree-like habit, and in the form of a specimen
some 10 feet high, clothed with luxuriant
foliage and adorned with numerous pure white
trumpet-shaped blooms, has a most ornamental
and imposing appearance. For a large con¬
servatory this is one of the best of flowering
plants, as if planted out in free soil it needs but
little care. It will also bloom well in pots, but
not until it comes into large ones, and then
with liberal feeding when in growth it will
annually yield a succession of its lovely flowers.
When in France I had numbers of this Datura,
or, as it is frequently called, Bmgmansia
Knightii, in large pots. They were wintered in
a cool house, and in June were plunged to the
rims in a group on the Grass, where they created
quite a distinct and imposing effect. The
climate naturally suited them, being warmer

and dryer than our own, so that the blooms
expanded well and the wood ripened. In the
warmer counties of England, however, it does
very well in the open air in summer, and as it
is not very particular as to position in winter,
anyone having a greenhouse could manage to
store away a good-sized plant of it when at rest.

I do not know if it is over raised from seed. I
think not. I have never seen any offered. The
usual method of propagation is from cuttings,
which root freely enough, and plants can he
bought cheaply of any good nurseryman.—J.
Cornhill, Byjlcet .

Azalea rosseflora.— This is a very pretty
Azalea, and one thoroughly distinct from all
others with which we are acquainted, not only
in appearance, but also in the time of flowering,
as in a temperature slightly above that of tin
ordinary greenhouse it will bloom continuously
throughout the autumn and winter, while other
kinds will require sharp forcing to have them
in bloom by Christmas. In general appearance
it is distinct, being of a dense, sturdy habit of
growth, and forming a globular-shaped bush,
which, even when old, is little more than a foot
high, and 2 feet across. The flowers are about
2 inches in diameter, moderately double, and
of a very pleasing shade of salmon pink. When
partially expanded the origin of its specific name
becomes apparent, as the flowers then, except in
colour, ! greatly resemble small rosebuds, but
when open that character is not so well marked.
This Azalea is also known under the names of
Rollis6oni and balsama?flora. It was introduced
into this country several years ago from Japan,
but, probably owing to its slow growth, it has
only been distributed to a limited extent, though
a very desirable kind.—A.

12009.— Mignonette for winter.— The
best place until quite the end of October is a
frame, merely putting on the light to shelter
from heavy rains and frosts. In the case of
4^-inch pots have five plants, and about eight
to a 6-inch pot. During the winter Mignonette
should have a light position, be kept quite cool,
and get plenty of air in fine weather. Take
care to avoid over-watering, as the roots are
very impatient of stagnant moisture. Migno¬
nette likes a rather light soil, loam and decom¬
posed leaf-mould, in equal parts, suiting it best.

—J. C. B.

- The plants will be better out of doors

as long as the -weather continues fine, and the
pots may be plunged in ashes. Mignonette
likes rich compost to grow in, and the probable
reason that it does not grow vigorously in pots
is that the plants have been allowed to suffer
for want of water. As soon as the pots are
filled with roots, water freely and give manure
water at each alternate watering. Place the

S lants in frames and admit air freely—a warm
ousewill be required in winter.—J. D. E.
12021.—Hydrangeas not blooming.—
Keep the plants in the open air until November,
giving them plenty of water, so that the wood
acquires Bubstance and ripens well. Winter in
a cool house, and at the end of January cut the
strong shoots back to two eyes, thinning out al
weakly ones. Water only when dry, and when
the new Bhoots form shift into a size larger pot,
using good loam with a little rotten dung or
some of Clay’s fertiliser. Press the soil in well
round the old base, and give a moderate water¬
ing. Place in a light position, and give plenty
of air through the spring months, liberally
watering as they begin to grow freely. By the
first week in June place in the open air ia a
sunny but sheltered situation, and give them
liquid manure twice a week. Treated in tbw
way nearly every shoot will yield a large head
of bloom.—J. C. B.

12936.— Heat for Coleus.— From November onwards
they require a constant temperature of from &0 deg*, to oo
decs., Riving only 1u9t enough water to keep the foliage
from flagging.—J. C. B.

1200S.— Cinerarias and Calceolarias.- It will
probably be better to pinch oil the flower-spikes of tho
Calceolarias, os they will throw up again in spring even
more strongly if kept quite cool through the winter, it
the Cinerarias are but little advanced the flowering stems
may be cut off too, but if they are 4 inches high it ia too
late. In any case we would allow a great part of them to
take their course, as they will come into bloom in winter
just when they should be welcome.—J. C. B.

-The first flower stems that appear may be pinched

out, which will cause them to flower later, and that is an
that can be done for them. The plants may be
into larger pots. This is not the time to take off cuttings
from the Cinerarias ; it may be done any time during nexx
.summer. Cuttings put in during June and Julv mate
fine flowering plants for the following season.—J. D. r-.

JNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
RBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

365

Oct. 4, 1884.]

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Gardenias. —The stock should now be looked
over, aud such as have their bloom-buds promi¬
nent, or partially developed, ought to be placed
where they can be kept not lower than 60 degs.
in the night, with less moisture in the atmo¬
sphere than it was necessary to have in the
bright summer season. If the pots are full of
roots, sprinkle a little of some or other of the
concentrated manures on the surface of the ball
once every three weeks or so ; a little at a time
in this way will be much better and safer than
heavy dressings. Water must be applied as
often as when there was more sun to dry it up,
otherwise the flower-buds will be liable to fall
off without opening. Successional plants in¬
tended to bloom later may be kept somewhat
cooler, but must not be subjected to too low a
temperature, otherwise the bloom-buds that
should now be set will not come forward when
submitted to more warmth. The dwarf-growing
G. citriodora is a profuse flowerer, blooming
freely in moderate heat, and deserves to be
much more generally cultivated than it is ; the
flowers, when mounted, are useful for bouquets,
wreaths, or in any other way that Orange blossom
can be employed, for which they answer well as
a substitute.

Tuberoses. —Where these are well managed
and sufficient quantities are grown, they can be
had in flower over a considerable portion of the
year. Those that are pushing up their bloom-
stems should be kept with their heads close to
the glass ; heat ought to be given them propor¬
tionate to the need there is of pushing them
on into flower, or the reverse if their blooming
is to be retarded. If it is necessary to push
them on they will bear a night temperature of
60 degs., or they may be kept at 50 degs. ; but
if too cold the blooming will not be satisfactory.
The same applies to plants that have made con¬
siderable root and leaf growth, and are only now
about pushing up their flower-stems ; if checked
by too low a temperature at this season the
chances are that many will fail to bloom
al together. Give water sufficiently often to keep
the. soil in a moderately moist, healthy con¬
dition, but not too wet.

Salvias.— The earliest flowering plants of
these will now be in bloom, and if sufficiently
supplied with manure water, will, after the
leading terminal shoots have flowered, produce
laterals freely that will bloom later on. Want
of room at this season, when almost everything
has to be got under glass, frequently is the cause
of many things of this character being stood
much closer together than is conducive to their
well-being, the result of which is that the bottom
leaves suffer, not only giving the plants an
unsightlv appearance, but reducing their flower¬
ing capabilities. This is particularly the case
with the later-blooming kinds. The lighter the
houses or pits in which they are located, or, these
failing, the higher the plants are raised up
to the roof, the closer these and all other
subjects that develop their flowers through the
short winter days will bear standing together.
Amongst the less well-known varieties S.
Bethefli (pink) and S. Pitcheri (blue) are par¬
ticularly deserving of general cultivation ; their
distinct character in habit of growth and pro¬
fuse flowering disposition, even in a small state,
commend them to all who are in any way
pinched for glass accommodation.

Lapagerias. — Large specimens of these,
especially when the roots are confined to pots
or boxes, are often found after a few years to
cease flowering satisfactorily. It is in the
nature of these fine climbers to require much
more root-room than many things need. The
ability to bloom freely will generally be found
proportionate with the strength of the growth
which the plants are able to make. Now, whilst
they are in bloom, it will be well to note
whether there is any falling off in the strength
of the shoots or flowering, and to rectify any
deficiency either by larger boxes or turning the
plants out in a prepared bed. Where either of
these courses becomes necessary it is well to
carry it out at once, or as soon as the flowering
is at a close, for if the giving of additional
root space is put off until near the time when
shoot growth commences, next season’s progress
will be much interfered with. If the roots
have more room given them now they get hold

Digitized by (jjOOQiC

of the now soil, and are in a position to sustain
top growth as soon as it commences.

Berry-bearing Solanums.— Plants that were
lifted and potted a short time back, as advised,
will have begun to root freely in the soil, as
when properly treated they push their fibres
rapidly. They should now be accommodated
with a good, light, airy pit or house. Such as
have their berries sufficiently coloured may be at
once placed in the conservatory or greenhouse,
where, associated with flowering and fine-leaved
plants, they will be effective for several months.
These plants are subject to green fly, and before
being taken in, if ever so little affected by it,
should be fumigated two or three times in suc¬
cession. Later stock, the berries of which are
yet green, ought to be kept in an ordinary
greenhouse temperature, where the fruit will
colour slowly, coming to their best about the
end of the year, at which time they will be
found very useful. One of the advantages of
growing a sufficient quantity of these plants is
that they bear keeping in rooms, halls, or
similar places where the light is insufficient for
most things, and the atmosphere not such as
plants of a more tender nature require.

Primulas. —It is time now to get both the
single and double varieties of these out of frames,
ana to place them in their winter quarters,
which should be in a house or pit where they
will receive plenty of light, and the atmosphere
is drier than most soft-wooded plants need.
The double varieties especially will be benefited
by a little warmth continuously; where this
can be given them all on from the present time
to the return of warmer weather in spring, they
keep on growing and blooming simultaneously,
the flowers under such conditions being much
larger and more abundant than where subjected
to an ordinary greenhouse temperature. Weak
manure water once a fortnight will assist both
the double and single kinds materially both as
regards the size ana colour of the flowers and
the stronger condition and more healthy hue of
the foliage.

Cinerarias. —Plants of these raised from the
earliest-sown seed will, if they have been man¬
aged right, be now about pushing up their
flower stems. Much of their ultimate blooming
depends on the treatment they now receive ; the
more liberally they are supplied with weak
manure water, the stronger they will flower.
They will be benefited by having it every time
they require water, not giving it too strong.
Keep the plants so far os possible standing on
a moist bottom, such as damp ashes or sand,
without a current of dry air admitted at the
side.

Flower Garden.

General work. —At present, beyond the
maintenance of ordinary neatness, there is no
department that demands any special attention.
Advantage should, therefore, be taken of the
opportunity to commence operations on any
extensive alterations or improvements that are
intended to be done during the coming winter,
an early start being desirable, first, because of
the uncertainty of the winter, or rather of the
weather at that season, and, secondly, because
the transplanting of most kinds of trees is most
successful when performed in autumn and early
winter, for the very obvious reason that they
have then time to get established in their new
quarters before there is any danger of drying
winds and powerful sunshine checking free root
action. Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and Conifers
are the first on our list for transplantation,
which will be done the moment the positions
for them are prepared by deep trenching and
manuring. The character of the soil here—a
sandy loam—being suited to the plants named,
no further preparation is needed to ensure
success, but those less favoured, either as to soil
or position, must work accordingly. Drainage,
deep tilth, and a loam free from chalk and not
too adhesive, will grow American plants almost
equally well os peat, whilst some kinds of Coni¬
fers really do best in a chalky soil. In the
flower garden, as the plants die off or begin to
look weedy, let them be at once removed and
their places filled with others for the winter.
All the dark-foliaged tender plants we are now
pulling up, and in their places are planting
Ericas, small shrubs, and Ajugas, and in some
instances laying down plots of Sedum that have
been grown in a reserve garden for the purpose,
and which, being moved with a spade and with

soil adhering to them, never feel the removal,
and are at once effective. The principle is also
applicable to choice plants that it is desired to
save from injury by frost. Let these be re¬
moved now, and fill in with the most suitable
plants at command. Keep the edgings of the
beds neatly trimmed, and bad flowers and foliage
daily removed ; by these means, should sharp
frost not intervene, a creditable display of
flowers may be had till quite the end of the
month. Some disparaging remarks as to the
value of tuberous Begonias for bedding purposes
having recently been made, I feel in duty
bound to say that my experience of them is
altogether of a contrary character. At this
moment they are simply magnificent, and havo
been so during the entire season. Next year
they will be used much more largely. We have
them planted a good distance apart on a ground¬
work of Sedum acre and Sedum glaucum, and
each plant standing thus separately has a far
better effect than others planted in a mass, not
to mention the economising as regards plants
that this manner of planting ensures. As soon
as frost blackens them the bulbs will be lifted
and placed thickly in boxes of sand, and
wintered in a shed that is cool, but secure from
frost. It is not now safe to leave unprotected
at night any kinds of bedding plants ; therefore
all that have been struck in the open borders
should either be potted up at once, or, till this
can be done, be covered up nightly. Calceolaria
cuttings should now be got in. A frame is best
for striking them in, and the soil should be two-
thirds light loam and the other third leaf-soil.
The cuttings, which should be 2£ inches apart,
should be well fastened in the soil, and for the
first fortnight shaded from sunshine. Pansies
and Violas should be treated in exactly the
same way, and these, too, should be got in as
early as circumstances permit.

Fruit.

Late vines. —Late houses that were started
early and helped forward with tire-heat will now
be finishing crops of ripe, well-coloured fruit,
which may be expected to hang and winter better
than Grapes that still require fire-heat, and
the wood and foliage being well ripened, all
lateral growths may bo shortened back to pre¬
vent crowding, and those which emanate from
the base of the pruning buds on old vines cut
quite away to plump them up before the foliage
falls. As days and nights get colder, gradually
reduce the temperature to a minimum of 50
degs., with a rise of, say, 10 degs. on fine
days, and ventilate freely to secure a circulation
of air when external conditions are favourable,
but keep the ground ventilators closed whon the
weather is wot and the atmosphere is heavily
charged with moisture. The above remarks apply
to black Grapes ; but Muscats, where quite ripe,
will keep well under similar treatment. Houses
in which Hamburghs and other thin-skinned
kinds are hanging must be kept dry and cool,
not by throwing all the ventilators open every
day, but by keeping them closed in wet weather,
and by dispensing with fire-heat as much as
possible consistent with the maintenance of a
temperature which does not strike cold to the
body when the house is entered. Look over
the bunches at least twice a week, and remove
every faulty berry before it has time to taint
its neighbour. Discontinue all sweeping and
raking, as dust soon disfigures the fruit, and
draw a tarpauling over the external borders
from this time until all the Grapes are cut.

Early vines. —If former directions have
been attended to, all the necessary preliminaries
will have been completed in the early house,
and the vines will be ready for starting. If
fermenting material is used for external borders
it should not be applied until the buds are on the
move, but some light covering may be placed
over the roots to protect them from cold, chil¬
ling rains. The second early house will now be
better for having the portable light—as a matter
of course, recently mended and painted—re¬
placed on the roof when pruning, and the usual
routine of scrubbing and cleansing must follow.
Many people do not think it necessary to expose
their vines or Peaches to the weather, but I
have always felt better satisfied with the start
and finish after they have had the benefit of
fine autumnal rains, which so thoroughly
cleanse the foliage and buds, and enrich and
sweeten ^ internal jborSers have^. been

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

tOer. 4, 1884 .

{65

slushed with stimulating liquid and shut out ^
from the influence of the atmosphere for at least
six months out of the twelve.

Orchard Houses. —With the exception of a
few late Plums, Pears, and clingstone Peaches,
the orchard house season is over, and the
present month will be devoted to the cor¬
rection of drainage, potting on, reducing,
or top-dressing; and as next year’s success
depends upon the way in which these matters
are carried out, it may not be amiss to again
direct attention to the importance of using cleau,
dry pots and drainage, dry, sound loam of a
calcareous nature, with a liberal admix¬
ture of crushed bones, charred refuse, or
old lime rubble. Those should be thoroughly
incorporated and kept under cover for some
time before being used, and, as firm potting is
imperative, the shift should always be large
enough to admit of the use of a fair-sized
potting stick for ramming the compost as the
work proceeds. Another important point which
must not be overlooked is the watering or soak¬
ing of the balls of the trees before they are
turned out, otherwise it matters little how well
every part of the work may be performed.
Neglect of this will lead to disappointment and
failure. When all the trees have been over¬
hauled, select a dry, airy, but sheltered situa¬
tion in the open air, place each tree upon two
bricks, and leave the pots exposed to the
influence of sun and air for a time. On the
approach of bad weather, fill in between the
pots with dry Fern leaves or Cocoa-nut fibre to
protect the tender roots, which soon begin to
work through to the sides of the pots, from frost,
and to prevent the latter from being burst or
cracked by expansion of the soil. It is hardly
necessary to say all pruning should be performed
as soon as the fruit is gathered, and the protec¬
tion of the buds from birds by means of fishing
nets must not be neglected. If trees for potting
up have not been selected, lose no time in
getting them marked before the leaves fall.
Always give the preference to clean, healthy
trees of moderate growth, as they are generally
well furnished with fibrous roots, and the wood
being ripe, they always lift well.

Vegetables.

Get all late Potatoes lifted as soon as possible ;
if they could be put into sheds, properly sorted,
before finally clamping them for the winter, all
the better ; if not, put them into clamps at once,
feet wide will be sufficient. Give them first
a good covering of straw, and then another of
earth; but that most objectionable plan of
leaving chimneys must be avoided. They only
let in the wet, and do harm instead of good.
Make another sowing of Spinach ; keep well
cultivated early spring Cabbage and Lettuce
quarters; hoeing one row and walking in the
other leaves the whole piece smart and trim.
French Beans must be earthed and rodded as
they make progress, and another batch eown.
Endive may now be lifted, laid in under shelter,
and have charcoal slightly sprinkled among it
to keep it from rotting ; when nicely blanched
it makes a very pretty and fairly good salad,
and desirable as a change. Mustard and Cress
must also be sown in small boxes, and a regular
supply kept up. Get late Celery well earthed
up, and any Broccoli or Walcheren Cauliflower
not wanted may be lifted and shedded. It keeps
well tied up by the heels in a dry shed, or laid
in among soil, covering up the roots.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN,

B90t too large. —Last year I had good
proof of how the market value of a crop of Beet¬
root may be lowered if the time of sowing is
not regulated by the nature and condition of the
soil and the variety grown. The half of a large
field was sown with Mangolds, the other half
with Beet of that free growing strain commonly
termed the Covent Garden Market. The seed of
both was committed to the soil at the same time,
and when the Beets came into full growth 1
ventured to remark that in all probability they
would become too large for market purposes, and
the result justified my prediction, as they made
such coarse roots that the grower was obliged
to give them to his cattle. Such a strong
growing kind ought not to have been sown on
rich soil before the middle of May. I have
noticed the same error again this season ; the
roots were some three weeks ago tco large of

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cooking. In striking contrast was a field of
Dell’s Crimson, which, being a small growing
kind, had come under the same treatment to
just the right size. This kind, even on good
soil, may be sown the first week in May, but
unless the soil is naturally poor, the middle
of that month will be early enough for coarse
growing kinds.—J. C. B.

Chou de Burghley. —With us this turns
in splendidly, forming close conical hearts,
which when cooked are as delicate in flavour as
any spring Cabbage, and much superior to any
of the Brassica tribe late in autumn, except,
perhaps, a nice white Cauliflower, which, unfor¬
tunately, we cannot expect to have long, as
winter with its frosts will soon be upon us. If
Chou de Burghley will stand hard weather as
well as Savoys, there will be no need for the
Savoys, and few, if any, will be grown when the
first-named excellent vegetable becomes better
known. Mr. Gilbert, the raiser of Chou de
Burghley, is said to have effected a cross between
it and the Brussels Sprout, and ifso, the Beedling
of Buch parents ought to be something good.—

J. S.

The Autumn Giant Cauliflower is
largely grown in this locality, and when true is
decidedly one of our best vegetables. There is
no dangerof confounding it with any other kind,
as it is perfectly distinct, both as regards flower-
heads and foliage, which is long and tapering.
The spell of fine autumnal weather which we
have lately experienced has evidently suited this
Cauliflower, for heads of it produced by plants
grown in open fields with plenty of space are
quite a foot in diameter. Although we fre¬
quently see this variety recommended for suc-
cessional sowings, I find that it is strictly an
autumn Cauliflower. It is sown thinly in beds
in March or April, and as soon as large enough
the young plants are put out on good soil a yard
apart, and the result is all that can be desired.
-G. G.

Vegetable Marrows.— We feel that they
should be designated the vegetable of conveni¬
ence. In a country house when the occupants
are busy washing, baking, or going through any
of their other weekly duties, how quickly a
Marrow is prepared for cooking, and when
properly cooked how delicious it is, especially
during a season of rapid growth. Our system
is to raise the plants in our frame, planting
them out in May on a mound of good manure,
having first cut a hole 2 feet square on the top
of the manure, filling it with rich, sifted soil,
protecting the young plants from wind and
night air, applying during dry weather a fair
amount of water. As the runners advance in
growth, we train them over an archway of wood
erected over the garden path, thereby econo¬
mising our garden ground.— West Norfolk.

Runner Beans. —These are rather largely
grown in this neighbourhood, and are thought
to be one of the most remunerative of market
garden crops. When the season is fairly pro¬
pitious and the culture good they yield heavily
from early summer till quite into winter ; but
the earliest and latest gatherings fetch most
money. When they first come in they often
realise as much as 10s. per bushel. Mr. Shears,
of Pyrford, who grows them well on his light
land, sows them 3 feet apart, and this allows of
the horse hoe being used among them. All
through the growing time the tops are kept
pinched off so that Runner Bean is in their case
a misnomer ; they are almost as dwarf of growth
as French Beans of the stronger type. Mr.
Shears has a curious method of sowing the red,
white, and Painted Lady together, about a third
of each, so that a field in bloom has a very pretty
and cheerful appearance. The reason given for
thus mixing these three kinds is that if one
variety should happen to fail it will not seriously
affect the crop.— Weybridge.

Horseradish. —A little of this should be
grown in all gardens, but in many cases it is
allowed to run wild, and as it runs and spreads
rapidly it may quickly take possession of good
ground, and occupy far more space than it ought
to do. In a semi-wild state the roots are very
' small and not very acceptable in the kitchen, but
' when kept within boundsand properly cultivated,
the roots may be had as thick as one’s wriBt.
j When this is the case a few roots will meet all
demands for a long time. During October and
November is a good time to renovate old planta¬

tions. The whole of the roots should bo trenched
out of the ground, and all the small pieces should
be thrown away, saving only the strong and
straight portions. Part of these may be covered
over with soil for use throughout the winter, and
two or three Bcore of the best should either bo
replanted now or l>e laid past until further on,
with the view of forming new plantations.
Where Horseradish has long occupied the one
piece of ground it is not wise to put it there
again, as the soil will be poor, and require
manuring, trenching, and cleaning.—B.

Summerhlll Lettuce. —Apart from this
being an excellent summer Cabbage Lettuce, I
find it to be one of the be3t for keeping up a
supply in autumn, and even until near Christ¬
mas. At the present time we have plantations
of All the Year Round, Hardy Hammersmith,
and others, but not one of them has produced
such fine crisp heads as Summerhill. It is not
now so large as in summer, but its fine heads are
very acceptable.

12001.— Sowing Onions on stiff soil.— There is no
need to roll the ground in the case of a clay soil, as that
naturally comes close enough ; it is only liirht porou* soils
that require hard pi>*8*iny, and they cannot he too much
rolled. Stiff olayoy soils would be better for an addition
of sand, ashes, or something similar.—J. C. B.

-The ground need not bo rolled before sowing th?m

but it ought to be done after.—J. D. E.

HOUSE WINDOW GARDENING.

Wild fruits for decoration.— How is it
that wild fruits are not more used than they are
for decorative purposes instead of flowers, or to
associate with them, for what can be more
effective or beautiful than many of them are ?
and how suitable they would be at this season
for the embellishment of rooms and dinner
tables, associated with some of the branches,
clothed with lovely tinted leaves that are so
rich and abundant on almost every deciduous
tree and shrub at this time. For eperguea or
vases with tall stems, there are the two kinds of
Ampelopais, with their fiery foliage, and plenty
of variegated Ivies which might be used to hang
down, and for the centre part there are no end
of things that bear berries which are bright in
colour and elegant in form and appearance.
Among these, the hips of the Sweet Brier may
be named, bushes of which this year are all
aglow with them, and the branches quite borne
down by the weight of their load. These are of
great use, and, by way of contrast, a few sprigs
of Blackberry come in well; then there is the
Traveller’s Joy, Clematis Vitalba, with its
bearded heads of seeds that are always such an
ornament during the later months of the year.
Cotoueasters, Pyrus, and the many kinds of
Crataegus all afford bright berries, and the
Laurels just now are a Bight, with their long
racemes of fruit. As a relief to these and the
others, dried heads of ornamental Grasses mix
well, and if placed together lightly, may be made
to form a group quite unequalled for beauty.—

Evergreens for indoor decoration.—
How much may be done with the foliage of hardy
trees and shrubs in the way of indoor or room de¬
coration can only be realised by those who have
tried it; the fact is, dwellers in rural districts are
so surrounded with luxuriant foliage at all times
and seasons, that they seldom think of bringing
anything so common indoors except at Christmas
time. But in towns where people are not so
happily situated any bit of evergreen is prized,
and I have frequently seen results surpassing all
studied combinations made by simply taking
good-sized branches of any kind of evergreen
tree or shrub, such as the Laurel, Bay, Lanrne-
tinus, Ivy, Conifers, &c., and dropping them
into good-sized vases, either all of one kind or
mixed. Large pieces of the common Ivv
covered with bloom, and later on with black
shining berries, are very ornamental, and for
garnishing or fringing large trumpet vases I
have found long shoots of the common Bramble
to be very effective ; the leaves put on rich tints
of autumnal colouring that deepen els the winter
advances. The feathery blooms of the Pampas
Grass look well indoors, and so do the seed-pods
of the Gladwin (Iris feetidisaima), while berry-
bearing shrubs are useful as regards giving
colour to mixed decoration. Without, there¬
fore, any assistance from exotic vegetation, one
can have indoor rooms cheerfully decorated,
even in the dark days of winter.—J. G.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Oct. 4, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

367

THE GREAT CHRISTMAS ROSE.

IIELLEBORUS NIGER (MAXIMUS).

The earliest, if not the finest, of Hellebores
(11. niger m&ximus), or, as we think it is more
correct to call it, H. altifolius, is already show¬
ing bloom in sheltered sunny gardens near the
sea. Arranged along with Bamboo sprays, its
plucked flowers are lovely indoors. Perfectly
hardy, this plant is easily grown on all well-
drained soils, and, as seen in perfection early
in our winter time, it becomes one of the finest
of all the hardy flowers in season. It does not
appear to be generally known that wherever
it luxuriates on rich, moist soils this plant seeds
quite freely. I gathered its ripe black seeds
last season in a neighbouring garden, and hope
to be able to say if this plant comes true from
saeds. This noble plant is succeeded by H. niger
proper and its much nobler
form with the Eucharis-like
blossoms.

ROSES.

NIPHETOS ROSE.

Perhaps there is no Rose
better adapted for culture
under glass than this. No
Rose can possibly be more
useful, few more beautiful.

Under glass and in bud it is
the purest white of any of
our so-called white Roses,
though it is mostly described
as having a lemon-coloured
centre. When Niphetos
reaches that stage or colour
it is already a beautiful
Rose spoilt. Under glass,
too, it is far more pure in
colour—or rather, the lack
of it—and delicate in form
than in the open air. The
popular description of this
Rose—as of globular form
—is quite misleading. When
fit for use it is one of the
longest and most delicately-
formed Roses we possess.

Globular, indeed ! Who¬
ever wants or wishes to see
the graceful elegance of the
perfectly-moulded, beauti¬
fully-tapered buds of Ni-

S hetos swollen out into
imsy masses of globu-
Iarity? The mere idea is
offensive to anyone who
knows the points or appre¬
ciates the excellencies of
the Rose Niphetos. Cut it
in time, no Rose is less
globular or more elegant;
none, as already remarked,
more pure or useful.

Early cutting is as
favourable to successful cul¬
ture as it is for turning the
Hose to the best advantage
for decorative purposes, for
not only is it true of this
Rose that you may cut and
come again, but the frequent cutting is one of
the most potent causes of the constant and ever-
recurring coming again for more flowers. There
is another fault to be found with most of the
descriptions of this Rose. It is called a vigorous
grower. This may be so in one case in ten or
a hundred, but, as a rule, it is not so. True,
occasionally a large shoot will Bpring up near
the root and run a yard or more without flower¬
ing, and then finish with a shower of flowering
shoots. But generally a foot or less of growth
at a time is nearer to the truth. And it is this
tendency to moderate—so moderate, in fact, as
often to deserve the name of weakly growth—
that constitutes one of the chief merits of this
lovely Rose, for the normal habit of this plant
is for each shoot to produce a bud on its
extremity. Hardly has this been gathered, and
even at times beforehand, than the shoot throws
out another. Where a roof or wall has to be
covered as quickly as possible, it is best not to
prune this Rose more than is done by the mere
cutting of the buds. In all cases hard pruning
should be avoided, for Niphetos seldom breaks

so well near the base of the flowering shoots as
further up the branch. In fact, not a few of
the base buds prove blind, and at times many
of the flowering branches have few or no wood
buds on them, so that the pruning of Niphetos
needs some judgment and care. Left very much
to itself, Niphetos, by its natural breaks, will
mostly show the cultivator where aud when to
prune. When thoroughly established, aud where
it does well, considerable thinning-out and hard
cutting-back of weakly shoots may be needful
to keep the plants regularly furnished with
flowering wood from base to summit of wall or
roof. But, as already remarked, through the
earlier stages little or no pruning will be
needed.

Soil. —A rather light soil seems to suit this
Rose best. Naturally, it seems somewhat
tender, and moderate food as well as a soil that

Digitized

* Google

Helloborua niger (maxianus altifolius.

tempts little rooting, such aa a mixture of peat
and loam and leaf-mould or thoroughly vcell-
rotted farmyard manure, suits Nephetos well.
The root run Bhould also be well drained ; the
slightest excess of water at the roots, the merest
suspicion of a block in pots, or saturated root
runs in the open, tell at once on the healthy

g rowth and perfect flowering of thiB Rose. A
ryiah, warmish atmosphere, especially through¬
out the winter months, is also essential to the
free production and perfect finishing of its buds.
Little or no overhead syringing should be given
to Niphetos from November to March, and a
temperature of from 4o degs. to 60 degs. will suit
it admirably during these dull, cold months ;
not bat Niphetos will do fairly well under glass
under lees fostering and genial conditions. But
when exposed to cold or damp in winter, the
lovely buds are apt to lose their external petals,
or, worse still, to rot off at the neck or collar.
Such symptoms are merely the natural protest
of the Rose against cold or damp. • Niphetos is
not full-scented, but has a very distinct delicate
fragrance—a sort of half-and-half mixture com¬

posed of Primroses and Violets. The foliage is
also specially fine, aud almost unique in its
distinctness, and the Rose needs no other
greenery either for button-hole or other bou¬
quets or general decorative purposes, lu those
old fashioned gardens where flowers are not
wholly grown for cutting, no Rose is more
worthy of a place for the decoration of a wall,
roof, rafter, or pillar than Niphetos. Trained
on the roof, most of the buds, from the slender¬
ness of their flowering shootlets, depend moro
or less from it, thus meriting the title of showers,
if not, in the aggregate, mountains of snow.

_ D. T.

Carpeting Rose beds.— The great in¬
crease of dwarf Roses on their own roots renders
the discussion of this question of less urgency
and importance than it used to be. Still, the
baldness and barenness of
the ground line of Rose
beds and borders is one of
the least attractive fea¬
tures of the majority of
gardens. The bare earth
is accepted as the penalty
we must pay for the lux¬
uriant growth and rich
bloom of the Roses. The
Rose is a gross feeder, and
the more iood it can have
the better the result. Such
is the short and easy w'ay
of settling the question in
favour of allowing no rival
to compete with Rose
roots for the food in the
soil in which they grow.
There are, however, many
missing links in this chain
of dogmatic reasoning well
deserving the earnest at¬
tention of rosarians ; such
as, for example, whether
the sun and air do not
steal more strength from
the bare ground than
would be absorbed by a
surface vegetation, at once
dense and the reverse of
gross. Such a covering
might possibly conserve
more food than it absorbed,
and if so, the Rose roots
would be the gainers, while
the beauty of the covering
would also be a gain.
There are at least two ways
of meeting the difficulties
or dangers arising from the
surface covering of Rose
beds. The one is by choos¬
ing such plants ns will
afford the most protection
to the surface with the
least impoverishment of
the mass of the soil, and
the other is to confine
the roots of the plants
used for surfacing in pots,
tube, or sunk pockets
formed of brick, stone, or
cement. A great many
plants, such as several
kinds of annuals, bulbs, succulents, and her¬
baceous plants, yield a maximum amount of
surface covering and beauty with a minimum
amount of soil exhaustion. Many creeping

S lants again, such as Periwinkles, Ivies,
lematis, &c., if planted in enclosed areas or
pockets, will afford beautiful surfacings for
Rose beds and borders without the possibility
of exhausting the root run. Nothing, perhaps,
looks so rich as a covering of Clematis under
Roses, though other plants, such as Pavonia
grandiflora, the variegated Mesembryanthemum,
and single or Pompone Dahlia, pegged down,
also have a rich and pleasing effect. While
suggesting these as a mere sample of scores of
plants that may be used, it may be well to add
that there are no surface coverings for the soil
of Rose beds equal to Roses themselves. Dwarf
Rosea so planted and trained as to fairly cover
the whole earth, that is the pertection of Rose
growing in the open as near as may be. Mig¬
nonette, so generally used for this purpose, is
too gross a grower and greedy a feeder on rich
Rose soils, A thte covering 6f Phlox Drum-

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

368

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 4,

mondi and its finer varieties forms a brilliant
carpet, and so do Indian Pinks of the improved
Heddewigi strains; while, under old tall standard
Roses, Cloves, Carnations, Picotees, and Pinks
afford a contrast of form and colour and har¬
monious bouquet of perfume that seldom fails
to please.—T. F.

Roses on north walls.— Those who wish
to cut Roses as near as may be all the year round
from the open air should plant them on walls of
every aspect. Some timo since I strongly
advocated the furnishing of walls with Roses as
being more profitable than fruit trees. But in
most gardens room enough might be found for
both, still leaving much wall or fence unclothed.
There are also many cold walls in bleak places
where choice fruits either refuse to grow or to
thrive to any good purpose ; such afford capital
sites for many of our most useful Roses. Such
hardy Teas as Gloire de Dijon and Homisre will
not only live, but thrive well and bloom pro¬
fusely on such bleak aspects. Not only this,
but the flowers arc improved in colour and form
by hard treatment of the plants. Gloire de Dijon
from a nortli wall has a refinment of form and a
fulness of deep orange colour that we seldom see
in the flowers gathered from warmer sites.
Other and more tender Roses such as Triomphe
des Rennes, Celine Forestier, and Souvenir de
la Malmaison, are also improved w'hen grown
on cool aspects. Another Rose which is often
not much better than semi-double in the full
blaze of summer heat and under such forcing
conditions has a faded, washed-out pink colour,
closes up its petals, and deepens into a vivid
pink Rose of great usefulness in the late and
early w T inter ; this is the little known and less
grown pink Gloire de Dijon or Gloire de
Bordeaux. I hope soon to try the effects of cool
sites on such Roses as White Baroness, Mabel
Morrison, &c. Were these to close up their
petals somewhat, by contracting their diameter
and adding to the substance if not the number
of their petals, they would become most valu¬
able for decorative purposes.—T. F.

12026.— Roses from seed.— Gather the
pods when ripe, extract the seeds, and keep
them in a cool, dry place until the middle of
March. Early in the month dig a piece of
ground over roughly and let it lay to get
thoroughly sweetened. Break all the lumps
with a fork, rake level, and draw shallow drills
^ inch deep and 4 inches apart. Sow the seeds
not too thickly therein; cover up and rake
quite smooth. In the course of the spring or
early summer the young plants will appear.
Keep them clear, water them in dry weather,
and they will make good growth. In October,
plant them out 6 inches apart in the rows,
allowing 1 foot from row to row, the ground to
be well stirred and manured. In April, prune
back to two eyes from the ground, and they will
break strongly and will mostly flower the ensuing
Bummer.—J. C., ByjtecL

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from, page 35S.J

The Fig House.

The Fig does well in confinement; in fact,
without we keep control of the roots there
cannot be any permanent success, and in the
majority of instances this control is as necessary
in open-air culture as under glass. The
Fig is a delicious fruit when well ripened, and
is indispensable to a first-class dessert, and con¬
tinues in season, where a house can be devoted
to its culture, a very long time. The White Nerii,
or Marseilles, may be ripened under glass early in
May, and by the time the first crop is over the
Brown Turkey will be coming, the second crop
of Nerii will succeed the Turkey, and the second
crop of Brown Turkey close the season. With
moderate forcing the Fig season will last for six
months.

Making the Border.

There are two or three specially important
features in the successful culture of the Fig.
The first is, never lose touch of the roots, and if
the roots cannot be bricked or boxed in, their
extremities should be frequently lifted in order
to prevent them getting out of hand. Figs are
often planted on the Back walls of vineries or
other structures in which they form only a
subordinate feature, but this is not the way to
do justice to them. They deserve T a house to

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themselves, and in order to make the most of
the house the trees should be forced sufficiently
to ripen the second crop in time to thoroughly
mature the ■wood. This maturation of the
wood is much aided by the roots being in a
proper condition and well under control. The
root-run need not be extensive, and it may be
either altogether inside or altogether outside,
with the exception of a narrow border just
within the front wall to plant in. The best way
of training the Fig is to make an arched trellis
a couple of feet or so from the glass and train
the trees over it. And the best way is to run the
trellis through to the back wall, for in the
case of the Fig it is better to extend a tree
which is doing well, and that has its roots
under favourable conditions, than to plant
trees on the back wall. A border 12 feet
wide will be ample for a wide and lofty
house. And of this space 10 feet should be
outside and 2 feet inside—the trees to be
planted inside, the roots being allowed to travel
outside when they please. The border should
lie well up, to obtain the full benefit of solar
warmth. The bottom should be made im¬
pervious, and the front fenced in with a wall of
concrete ; but thorough drainage is most im¬
portant, as at certain seasons a large-leaved
plant like the Fig will require liberal supplies
of moisture ; therefore, the drainage must be
good. The soil should have for its main staple
a good sound loam, from a limestone formation
if it can be had, but at any rate it should be of
a generous nature, with plenty of body in it—
not sandy; and it need not be more than from 2
feet to 2£ feet deep, and the only mauure given
when first made should be crushed bones.
These may be added somewhat liberally, or,
say, a bushel to every cartload of loam.
Caloined oyster shells, if obtainable, will be
beneficial, or old plaster from the pulling-down
of old buildings. Whatever nourishment the
trees require can be given when they need it in
summer by dissolving artificial manures in
water and pouring it on the border. Figs may
be planted any time under glass from the time
the leaves fall till March. In planting, the
roots should be laid out within G inches of the
surface, and the surface of the border should
be heavily mulched with half-decayed manure.

Forcing.

In forcing the Fig about the same tempera¬
ture as is given in the early vinery will be
necessary. Close the house at the beginning of
January. Keep the night temperature at 45
degs. the first fortnight, but let it gradually
creep up to 50 degs. towards the end of the
month. When the young Figs push out, and
the leaves burst forth, the temperature at night
should be raised to 55 degs., to be followed
about the time the fruits show flower by a rise
to 60 degs. The inflorescence of the Fig,
unlike all other fruits, is within the fruit itself,
and takes place when the fruit is about half
grown, and during the timo the flowering is in
operation a drier atmosphere should be main¬
tained, and if dull weather sets in a little
more fire should be used to permit of more air
being given. It may easily be known when the
flowering of the Fig takes place, as the eye of
the fruit expands and exposes it to view.

Stopping the Young Wood.

I have said that there were two or three
specially important matters in connection with
Fig culture under glass. The first I laid stress
upon—“Never lose touch of the roots”—may,
in a sense, be applicable to all fruit culture.
The second—“ Stopping the young wood ” —is,
perhaps, in its thoroughness applicable to theFig
only, as no other fruit tree will bear a crop of
fruit on the wood of the same year. The Fig,
like most other trees under the cultivator’s hand,
always starts more shoots in spring than it
needs, and the weakest of these should be rubbed
off as soon as it can be seen which are required
to be left. When the young shoots which are
left to produce the late crop have made five
leaves take the terminal bud of the shoot be¬
tween the fingers and press it sufficiently to
bruise and so far destroy the tissues as to stop
all circulation. This course of treatment should
be adopted with every shoot on the tree. The
shoots of Fig trees bleed a good deal when cut,
and the object of nipping the buds instead of
cutting or pinching them off is to prevent loss
from bleeding. Pinching tho young wood after
a fair development has been permitted, tends to

fill the trees full of young stubby shoots, which
will bear freely. All laterals should be pinched
back to one leaf, and no extension permitted
beyond. The leaders, if the trellis is not fur¬
nished, may be allowed to extend, but the
branches must be trained thinly, for tho Fig
tree carries a large breadth of foliage, and ex¬
posure of the wood is necessary to fertility. In
the early stages of growth a moist atmosphere
should be maintained by the free use of the
syringe morning and afternoon, and this should
be kept up till the period of flowering begins,
when a dryer state is necessary. Afterwards
the syringe should be resumed till the fruit
begins to ripen, when it must be discontinued.
The borders, both inside and out, should be
mulched with manure, and liquid manure
should be given when help is needed. In
October, when all the fruits are gathered, throw
open all the lights and leave them open night
and day to complete the ripening of the wood
and bring down the leaves.

Winter Pruning.

Just before the house is closed for forcing, or
about the beginning of the new year, the
winter pruning should be done. This should
be directed chiefly to the removal of naked old
branches whose space can be more profitably
filled with young wood. No directions for this
work can be given except by someone on the
spot, but in the priming of old, neglected Fig
trees the knife may be used freely, with advan¬
tage, to open up the tree and to make room for
young wood, as on that alone will the fruit
appear. In training the tree the main branches
should be laid in their full length first, and after¬
wards the side shoots should Be so arranged in
the open spaces as to furnish the trellis with
bearing wood. In training, in order to secure
well-balanced trees, the whole of the branches
should be unloosed from the trellis every year ;
and after the trees are pruned, before training
begins, all the wood should be washed with
Gishurst Compound, from 4 to 6 ounces to the
gallon of water, using a brush for the thick
branches and a sponge for tho smaller ones.
All the paint of the woodwork inside the house
should be washed with warm water in which
some soft soap has been dissolved, and all walls
should be lime-washed. When a tree drops its
fruit there is always a cause, and this cause
should be sought for and discovered. Checks
and chills will sometimes cause the fruit to drop
when young, and too much moisture in the
atmosphere will, by preventing the proper
fertilisation of the fruit, lead to its falling when
half grown. Removing a terminal bud of a
shoot at the winter pruning has been found of
advantage, by throwing back the strength into
that part of the branch bearing the fruit. It
is, in fact, stopping by anticipation the progress
of the tree, in order that the fruit may benefit
from the concentration of the force of the tree
upon its fruit rather than the manufacture of
new wood. Of course the new wood comes
later on. It is an expedient which may be
adopted in certain cases, but with trees in good
condition, having healthy roots near the surface
of the border, it is scarcely needed.

Insects.

So far as I am aware, in this eountry the Fig
has no disease peculiar to it, for the habit of
dropping its fruit prematurely, which some
varieties have, may be traced to local causes.
The insects which chiefly attacks the Fig are
tho scale, coccus caricas, and coccus fici; but
unless much neglected, there is no difficult}' in
getting rid of them by dressing in winter with
a Btrong solution of Gishurst Compound, mixing
enough clay with it to give it the consistency of
paint, and painting all the branches with it,
especially filling up all the cracks and crevices.
The red spider is sometimes troublesome,. and
tfhe syringe should be plied vigorously twice &
day except when the fruits are all in blossom
and during their ripening. At these times, if
the red spider appears, the leaves must be
sponged, using a little soft soap in the water.
If the mealy bug gains admission to the house
it is rather troublesome on Fig trees, but it
can be got rid of by using the proper remedies
—the same as recommended for bug on vines—
following them up persistently till none remain.
But, with all the remedies I have seen tried, it
is necessary to keep a strict look-out for strag¬
glers all the following spring, as some eggs will
escape the winter dressing.

"JIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

\

Oct. 4, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

369

Figs in Pots.

If a house cannot be given up to the Figs so
that justice may lie done them, if they have to
be treated as a catch crop, it will be better to
have them in pots or tubs, or even in boxes, as
the Fig will grow in anything that will hold suili-
cicnt soil for the roots to work in. When grown
in a pot the Fig has a considerable power of
adaptation to circumstances. The trees may be
pruned hard back in winter, the pots plunged
in a bed of leaves to induce a strong break, the
young shoots pinched at the fifth leaf, as I have
recommended, and a heavy crop of fruit gathered
from the young wood almost as early as under
ordinary circumstances the first crop could be
gathered. This is a good plan to adopt with
good forcing varieties. The first crop, which is
often a thin one, is sacrificed altogether, and the
energies of the plant driven into what would in
the ordinary course be the second crop. Figs
may be grown in comparatively small pots, as
when pot-bound thoy will take very strong doses
of liquid manure, and rich top-dressings may be
easily applied by fixing broad strips of zinc to
the top of the pot, and filling in with rich soil.
When the plants have been potted on time after
time, and have reached the extreme limits as to
size, they may have half the roots cut away with
a knife, and be potted back into smaller pots,
reducing the heads at the same time. I have
often done this when they got too large, and
they do not seem to resent it in the least; m
fact, it seems to infuse new life into the trees.
It is better not to prune shy-bearing kinds till
after the young fruits are pushed out, as one
can see better where to cut without sacri¬
ficing any fruit. Fig trees in pots will
succeed in almost any temperature, if it be
but regular. They will do in the orchard
house, though they do not ripen the second
crop without fire-heat. A fair amount of
success may be obtained in the vinery or the
Peach house, and many a chance dish may be
obtained in this way ; but Figs are as well worth
a small house to themselves as are Peaches and
Melons. When all the fruit is gathered, and
the leaves are falling, the plants may be stood
out in the open air, in a sunny position, to com¬
plete the ripening; but they must be housed
again before much frost commences. Figs in
pots need not be repotted every year, unless
much root-bound ; but as much of the top soil
as possible should be removed, and fresh com¬
post added. Turfy loam from the top of an old
pasture, mixed with a fourth part of old horse
droppings, and a good sprinkle of bone dust and
old plaster or mortar, all thoroughly inter¬
mixed, will form an excellent compost, with
liquid manure ad lib., when the time of trial
comes— i.c ., when the fruit are swelling off.
The cultural details are the same for potted
trees as for others. Figs thrive in a mild bottom
heat when grown in pots. I well remember
many years ago what magnificent crops we used
to gather from plants elevated on inverted pans
over a flue, and much the same success has fol¬
lowed the plunging of the pots in a mild hotbed
of leaves, such as used to be common enough in
vineries years ago. But bottom heat is not a
necessity of Fig culture any more than it is
necessary for vines, though plenty of instances
might be brought forward where both had bene¬
fited by its use ; but, except in the case of Pines
and Melons, if bottom heat is used at all, it
shonld be given in a mild form, and must be
very regular and steady, and it is because of
the difficulty of securing this regularity and
steadiness that wise men, unless quite sure of
their position, do not employ artificial aids of
this character. All the water used for water¬
ing or syringing Fig trees when forced should
have the chill taken off it to bring it up to
6 degs. or so above the temperature of the
house they are growing in.

Propagation.

The usual methods of propagation are cuttings
and layers ; suckers may be altogether discarded
as not suitable, having a tendency to make soft
shoots. New varieties are raised from seeds,
and some day something more will bo done in
the direction of raising new varieties from seed,
s The Fig is not often grafted, but it is a very

,, useful plant to adapt in the case of seedlings, as

j, it expedites their fruiting. If a shoot of a
>, seedling Fig be grafted on a branch of the
White Ncrii or Brown Turkey, fruit may be

*

obtained the same season. In-arching, or
grafting by approach, is Jhe^best method, and

Digitized! by

theibest method,] and

Go gle

it is one that anyone with a sharp knife can do.
Bring the two shoots together, cut a slice off
each, fit and bind them together, and keep
them in that position till the union is effected,
when the seedling shoot should be severed from
its parent, and the shoot above the graft be
removed. The Fig will succeed by other modes
of grafting, but the method described above
may be done any time, and is certain in its
result. Cuttings of ripened wood 7 or 8 inches
long, preferably with a heel of old wood, will
root in bottom heat in spring, and soon make
nice plants for fruiting in pots or planting out.
Layers in autumn soon form roots, and may be
detached at the end of twelve months.

Varieties.

The White Nerii is, I believe, synonymous
with the White Marseilles, and is an excellent
kind for early forcing, being one of the best
Figs for forcing in pots. The Brown Turkey is
a good companion for it, coming in a little
later. The black Fig, Negro Largo, is a good
one, and if more varieties are wanted add the
Black Marseilles and black, white, and brown
Ischias, which are all good. E. Hobday.

FRUIT.

APPLES FOR DESSERT.

In giving a list of varieties suitable for dessert
one has to deal with a numerous class of Apples
of nearly equal merit, for, although in kitchen
varieties size is a great consideration, it is rather
a drawback than otherwise in dessert Apples.
A good, even sample of what is generally classed
as second size is the most desirable for dessert,
and in this class quality is the great desideratum.
Appearance, too, goes a long way on the dessert
table, and of late years some handsome varieties,
such as Worcester Pearmain, have become
popular as market fruits, hi which high colour is
one of the first considerations. Even this, how¬
ever, cannot be placed before quality. It is to
their excellence in this respect alone that
Ribston Pippin, Margil, and many of the oldest
favourites still retain their hold on fruit growers,
for they are eclipsed as regards appearance by
many later introductions. Amongst kinds
specially suited for dwarf-trained trees there
are several varieties of exceptional merit that
can only be brought to perfection in Kent as
cordons in sheltered positions, or as pot trees in
orchard houses. They are, however, extremely
handsome when well grown, and make beautiful
dessert fruit for winter use.

Dessert Apples for Standards.
ABhinead’s Kernel
Astrachan (red)

Beachamwell
Benoni

Court Pcndu Plat
Court of Wick
Crofton (scarlet)

Code’s S-cdlinjf
Colonel Vaughan
Devonshire Quarrendcn
Golden Harvey
Gascoyne Scarlet
Golden Knob
Hall Door

Incomparable (Barton’s)
Juneating (red)

(white)

Mr. Gladstone
Nanny

Nonpareil (old)

Nonpareil (scarlet)
Oslin

Pearmain (Barcelona)
(Claygatc)
(Worcester)
Pippin (Baddow)
(Cockle)
(Farleigb)
(Golden)

(Franklin’s)

(Guernsey)

(Kerry)

(marbled)

(Ribston''

(Sturmor)

Russet (Aromatic)
(Rosemary)

(Syke House)
(Wheeler’s)

Sam Young

Dessert Apples suit able for Dwarfs.

Astrnehan (whito)
Coe's Golden Drop
Ingeetrie (red)
(yellow)

Irish Peach
Margil

Maclean’s Favourite
Nonpareil (Braddick)
(Pitmaston)
Nonsuch (Peos"ood*8)
(Welford Park)
Northern Spy
Ord’s Apple
Pearmain (Hubbard’s)

Pearmain (Manninpton)
(winter)

Pippin's (Fearn’s)
(eolden summer)
(Keddlestone)

(King: of the)
(Uranic, Cox’s)
Roinette (Baumann's)
do Bordeaux
do Champagne
Russet (Boston)

(iroldeu)

(Powell’s)

In the following list of dessert Apples for
cordons, bushes, or orchard house trees will be
found many kinds already enumerated, but,
though they succeed as orchard trees about
Maidstone, they become greatly improved when
afforded the shelter of a walled-in garden. Sorts
marked a require even about Maidstone the
shelter of a wall or orchard house in order to
have them of the best quality. Many sorts, too,
that succeed in Kent as cordons or bushes on

the Paradise stock require in northern counties
a wall or glass roof to do them full justice. An
idea prevails that the Apple, being closely
related to our hardy Crab, needs no protection,
and in many gardens all the best positions are
assigned to Peaches, Apricots, or Plums ; but if
anyone wants evidence that the Apple is capable
of repaying extra attention, let them visit
Barham Court or some garden in which it
is made a speciality, and see for themselves. At
Barham Court Apples occupy the most sheltered
borders with a south aspect, or are, when in
pots, furnished with a glass roof. In fact, some
fe w varieties of very great merit, such os Cornish
Gilliflower, will only devolop their exquisite
flavour under such modes of culture, and where
such cannot be accorded them it is better to
trust to hardier sorts. Some fruit cultivators,
however, in this district make a good profit by
growing sorts like the Ribston, Margil, and
Cox’s Orange Pippin for market as dwarf bushes,
the fruit on which is thinned out and grown as
if for exhibition. Thus treated they realise high
prices even in years when Apples are abundant.

Dessert Apples for Cordons, Bushes, or
Orchard Houses.

Ashmead’s Kernel Ord Apple

Aromatic (Cornish) Peach (Irish)

a American Mother Pearmain (winter)

Aatrachan (white (Blachin’s)

(red) (searlet)

a Borsdorifer (polden)

a Cornish Gilliflower (Worcester)

a Calville Blanc (Baumann’s red)

Court Pendu Plat Pippin (Cox’s Orange

Court of Wick (Cockle)

Coe’s Golden Drop (Fearn’s)

Devonshire quarrenden (golden, Franklin’s

Early Strawberry (Isle of Wight)

a Esopus Spitzenberg (Keddlestone)

a Fenouillet Gris (King of the)

a Jaune a (Newtown)

a Rouge (Ribston)

Golden Harvey (Sturmer)

Incomparable (Barton’s) a Pomine d'Aunle
Ingcstrie (red) a de Neige

(yellow) Itcinctte Baumann

Juneatiug (red) de Bordeaux

Lord Burghley a Francho

Margil a Grisc

Mr. Gladstone a d'Automno

« Mela Carla (golden)

a Melon Russet (Cox’s Redlcaf)

Nonpareil (early) (golden)

(Pitraastou) (Rosemary)

(scarlet) (Syke House)

(Lodgmorc) (Wheeler’H)

Nonsuch (Peangocd’s) « Spitzenberg (Newtown)

Northern Spy a Swaar

_ G. M.

Planting fruit trees.— The time has again
come round when fruit trees have to be planted,
and many engaged in the work will doubtless,
before spring, treat the trees in the matter of
pruning as they have always been in the habit
of treating similar young stock, by cutting the
shoots hard back so as to leave them not more
than possibly one-fourth or less of the length
they were when moved from the nursery.
Trained trees, including Peaches, Nectarines,
Plums, and Pears, are fruits that usually come
in for this kind of catting, which is done, no
doubt, under the mistaken notion that the wall
or espalier, as the case may be, cannot be pro¬
perly furnished unless the trees are thus reduced.
Standard Apples and Plums suffer by this sort
of mutilation to a greater extent than dwarf
trees. It is scarcely needful to say that when
the roots have been reduced by transplanting,
and the branches severely cut in the same
season, the mutilation of both top and bottom is
doubly weakening to young trees. In place of
this senseless cutting back, only the strong
shoots should be shortened, or, still better, have
their buds rubbed off for a length more or less,
proportionate to the length which they are
above the weaker shoots; then during the
summer will be seen the difference in the growth
made compared with that which takes place
where severe shoot-shortening is practised. Ob¬
servant planters have long noticed the ill effects
that followed hard cutting back, and have
avoided it. My own practice has always been
not only to confine the shortening back to any
shoots that were much stronger than the others,
but also to defer pruning until after the buds,
not rubbed out in the way just stated, had
broken into growth and made some progress,
by which means the loss of sap is least experi¬
enced. As to the extent to which the shoots
require being interfered with, much depends on
the shape the young trees have when received
from tjhj^

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

870

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 4, 1884.

or walla. Respecting these, it may

be said that there are trained trees_

rained trees ; some are so much better than
others, independent of size and health, that I
would much rather pay for them than have
others for nothing. In the selection of trained
trees a point should be mado to always have
them with the lower branches strong ; if a little
stronger than those that form the centre of the
tree, no harm will be done, but the reverse ; the
middle of the tree will always take care of itself.
Young trained trees with a gross shoot or two
in the centre and weak lower branches I would
not have at any price. I would much prefer
maidens, as with them the right shape can be
secured by stopping the shoots that need it
whilst soft and growing, thereby all but dispen¬
sing with the use of the knife.—T. B.

Choice Pears. —Few hardy fruits are more
delicious than are the best of Fears, variable as
they are in size and flavour. Shall we give the
palm of merit to these large, soft, yellow-coated
specimens of Marie Louise, from a sheltered
wall ? At any rate, when well grown and per¬
fectly ripe, but few October Pears can surpass
this one in quality. Wall-grown Seckle is
another delicious morsel, sweet, juicy, and with
a bouquet distinct from any other Pear what¬
ever. Williams’ Bon Chretien (Bartlett of the
United States) is sweet and full flavoured, but,
as I think, a little too musky. Knight’s
Monarch, when you can get it just in its best
state, is quite a revelation to fruit eaters, its
juicy freshness bringing to mind the delicious
Jargonelles of early August. Douchesse d’An-

f ouleme is a fine fruit for show, but for eating
should much prefer Marie Louise at its best.
Pears are, however, very uncertain in quality,
for not only must they be gathered from the
tree just at the right time, but one must also
watch for the exact moment they are fit to be
eaten. Then, in very cold weather you must
put the finishing touch to their flavour by just
a little warmth, which brings out the flavour of
Pears as it does the delicate bouquet of some
wines. Soils and climate, again, have a very
marked effect upon the flavour of Pears as well
as of other fruits, hardy as well as tender. In
one garden you may get all the finest of Pears
large and well coloured—first-class fruit to look
at, but scarcely third-rate in flavour. The
Knight’s Monarch, before alluded to, is often
small and scabby in appearance, and yet, to
eat, it is like a beautiful dream. So also of
scrubby little Seckles, and small russet-blotched
specimens of other well-known kinds of both
Apples and Pears. In a word, appearance is not
always a guarantee of good flavour any more
than good looks is always an index to a good
temper. How is this ? Is it soil, or climate, or
sunshine, or what is it that gives the most
exquisite flavour to fruits in one garden, while
it is not to be found in those grown a few miles
away? Some desire quality before quantity,
flavour or aroma before mere size. This seems
to be as yet a comparatively virgin field for
inquiry. Why should Gooseberries grown
north of the Trent be credited with a flavour
more delicious than those grown in the sunny
south ! Is it fact or is it fancy ? At any rate,
we are quite sure that Pears grown in different
gardens are very different in flavour, and we
want to know what causes this difference of
quality.

Winter dressing fruit trees.— The fall
of the leaf denotes the period when active
operations should be commenced against all
sorts of insect pests that prey upon fruit trees.
Owing to the buds being now dormant, stronger
remedies can be more safely applied than at
any other time. Amongst the worst of fruit
tree enemies may be mentioned American blight
and various sorts of scale. The latter infest
Cherries, Plums, Pears, and other wall trees
even more than they do trees of similar kinds in
the open garden. For American blight, or, in fact,
any of the insect pests that remain on the bark
during winter, I nnd nothing so effectual in re¬
ducing their numbers as a good hard scrubbing,
going over the trees first and thinning out the
knots and spurs, around which they usually
collect in great numbers at the approach of
winter. Strong soapsuds or brine may be safely
used on the old wood, and after the trees are
divested of all that can be reached by these
means, the garden engine should be vigorously

well • from their hold, a good drenching will com-
and | pletely destroy them. Then apply one or other
of the various insect destroyers now so nume
rous, such as Gishurst Compound, paraffin oil,
&c. I find a hand syringe a very good means
of applying liquids to wall and dwarf trees, and
in the case of tall standards I use the garden
engine. The principal point is to see that every
particle of the bark is wetted, being careful to
get well under the branches. I have cleansed
trees badly infested with many of the pests just
named with that homely remedy—soapsuds.
Very recently a lady directed my attention to
some creepers on her house front that were
gradually dying. I found on examination that
they were infested with white scale, which
seemed to like the shelter of the overhanging roof.

I recommended drenching them overhead every
week with soapsuds, and in a short time thev
grew away most luxuriantly, and the bark
assumed that healthy, shining appearance
which denotes health. Hundreds of unhealthy
fruit trees are in a like manner infested with
scale, though unnoticed by their owners, who
go on applying stimulants to their roots, forget
ful that these minute and unobserved enemies
are sucking the very life blood from the trees,
and that until removed all hopes of improve¬
ment are useless. Coating the stems and
branches with a mixture of various compounds
applied with a soft brush is an effective mode
of dealing with these pests, but it takes more
time than dressing the trees with liquid applica¬
tions. From G ounces to 8 ounces of Gishurst
Compound to a gallon of water, and enough
clay to thicken it, is a safe application, or it may
be even stronger if not put over the fruit buds ;
or paraffin oil may be used at the rate of half a
pint to a gallon of water; the latter should be also
strongly impregnated with Tobacco juice by pour
ing it boiling over half a pound of Tobacco, and
flowers of sulphur, lime, and clay should be
added to the mixture in sufficient quantity to
thicken it into a paint. This is a good remedy
for all kinds of fruit tree insects, including those
of the vine. Where many trees require atten¬
tion, a large quantity can be mixed at one
time and used as required. Coal tar has lately
been recommended as a winter dressing in the
proportion of one pint to a gallon of water,
thickening it with clay as in the former case.

If carefully applied it is a valuable remedy, but,
like all strong remedies, extreme caution in
applying it must be exercised. Of the numerous
caterpillar and grub enemies that prey on the
foliage of fruit trees and bushes during the
growing season, I may mention that they are
mostly safe below the surface of the soil in
winter. The best way, therefore, in order to
reduce their numbers, is to break up the soil
roughly around the base of the trees, especially
in times of frost, for the birds, being then hard
pressed for food, will search diligently for any¬
thing in the shape of grubs. Moss and other
parasitic growths can also be better dealt with
now than at any other period of the year. If
the trees are large and much Moss-grown,
scrape or scrub all the main branches and then
dust with finely slaked lime, choosing a damp,
still day for the operation, when fog or mist
makes the air heavy and the branches dripping.

If the lime is fresh a very little will suffice to
destroy Moss, which will soon wither up and
drop off. In walls, nail holes and joints get
full of insects ; a coating of thick whitewash
should therefore be worked into every crevice.

If the whitewash is too conspicuous, a little
cement added will make the effect less glaring
and the mixture none the less serviceable ; then
by way of finish top-dress the roots with half
decayed stable manure, which will prevent
drought from affecting them. If the soil is
poor in quality, or much exhausted by close
cropping, remove the top spit to another part of
the garden and substitute fresh fibrous turf, a
material in which it is surprising how much
the roots revel ; it contains all the ingredients
necessary for building up fruit trees and for
keeping them for many years in a fruitful
state.—J.

applied, for if one.© the insects

Digitized by ^ tO

its are 1<

S Te

loosened

kind than President for quality, but you might try n. few
plants of Sir J. Paxton and Vicomtesae Hericart do Thury
and see which does best. Strawberries vary much in
quality according to soil nnd position, and possibly one of
these latter might come better with you.—J. C. B.

12000.— Topping Raspberries —Let them go until
pruning time, say the end of November, and then cut them
back to about 6 feet from the ground. Kaspberiies are not
stopped when prowing.—J. C. B.

- Canes 8 to 9 feet high are remarkably well grown.

Cut them back to 4J feet or 5 feet.—J. L>. E.

12004.— Poaches from seed. —Sow the stones a*
soon as they are separated from the ripo fruit: do n».t
break them. I have fruited them in pots the third vear
from the seed. Apple trees raised from the Ribetonu
Pippin would not make good stocks, as tho tree i 9 so liable
to canker ; it would not come true from seeds. A true
stock of Ribstone Pippin can only bo had bv grafting scions
of that variety on a healthy stock.—J. D. E.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES,

(miscellaneous. )

11960.—Flowers for church decora¬
tion.— There are but few flowers that will
bloom in winter in a cold greenhouse, a con¬
stant temperature of from 55 degs. to GO degs.
being required to bring any kind of bulb into
flower from January to March. There are many
kinds of late-flowering Chrysanthemums which,
properly grown, will give flowers quite up to
and even beyond Christmas. They require to
be grown along in the open air through the
summer, shifting them when needful. Cycla¬
mens and Chinese Primulas, also winter-flower¬
ing Tropieolums, bloom through the winter
under cool treatment, and Heliotropes and
zonal Geraniums will flower almost up to Christ¬
mas if rightly grown. Paris Daisy (Etoile
d’Or) is a most useful plant, and should be much

J rown where flowers in winter are desired.—

. C. B.

11948. — Forming Grass peat. — The
readiest way is to lay it down with turf, and
where expense is no object is to be preferred, as
by doing the work at once a good lawn will be
formed by next summer. The ground should be
dug over at once, levelled, and the turf laid as
soon as possible. The after care will consist
in mowing regularly and rolling now and then.
The cheapest way, and the one generally
followed nowaday, is to sow seeds. Dig the
ground over, and let it lay quite rough through
the winter, levelling it, and raking smooth
in March. Send the area of the ground and
description of its nature to a seedsman
making a speciality of Grass seeds, and he will
send the kind and quantity needful. Choose a
dry day for sowing, rake the seeds well in, keep
free from weeds, and mow regularly, and you
will get a good Grass peat by autumn.—J. C. B.

12015.— Destroying woodlice.— In any
greenhouse so infected as “Young Gardener”
describes, I should strongly recommend the
turning-out of all the pots, and the examination
of the potsherds at the bottom ; the result will
probably astonish him, and he will destroy
more in an hour in this way than by weeks of
trapping. The best trap, as the readers of
Gardening have many times been told, is a
piece of Potato at the bottom of a flower-pot,
covered with Moss or Hay. The turning-out of
the pots seems a strong remedy, but it is, at
least, effectual. This is my first year in a new
locality, so I cannot compare the season with
former ones. I can only say that the very soil
of my garden seems to swarm with woodlice,
and, of course, the greenhouse has been full of
them, but perseverance and boiling water have
done wonders.— A York Amateur.

11911.—Preserving French Beans.—
Fill an open-mouthed earthenware jar with
water, thoroughly dissolve sufficient salt in it to
cause an egg to rise. Cut Beans in slices ready
for cooking, put into the brine, add as the Beans
are cut, quite dry, until the jar is packed quite
full. Put a cloth over the top, and a small

E late, so as to keep the Beans uuder the brine.

.ay an earthenware cover on so as to keep as air¬
tight as possible. Wash and replace the cloth
week. For cooking, take a sufficient

_gc

them to fall of in auantity after the fruit has stoned, and
could only happen if the trees had received a serious check.

They must either have suffered from want of water at the
roots, or else the house did not receive sufficient attention
as regards airing during the hot weather.—J. D. E.

11965.—Strawberries in town gardens.—Your

situation is very unfavourable to this fruit, and that is the _ _

cause of their becoming sour. You cannot have a bettor | pc netting, 18 kichc? wide Since doing thisj I have utf

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

quantity out over night, soak in a large quantity
of water, boil in the ordinary way.—E. K.

12020.— Mulberries, mixed with Apples and plenty of f
sugar, make a delicious tart.

11959.— Cats in ffarden —Fix some iron rods againrt I
tho wall, one end in the ground, the other end about J
inches above tho wall. On these strain some galvanize I

Ocrr. 4. 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

371

iy

■i

5 *

4 »

ha<i a cat come into the garden, whereas before I was over¬
run with them ; the netting giving way to their touch
they are afraid to venture on it.—S.

1*2020.—Caterpillars on Geraniums.—These are
caused by the butterflies laying their eggs on the leaves
Destroy the butterflies or prick off the caterpillars. There
is no other way of getting rid of them.—J. D. E.

M. Beckwith .—Geranium Vesuvius frequently produces

white and scarlet flowers on the same plant.- B. D.—

Complete desciptive lists are published by all the leading

florist*- Waller Cattlcy.— Messrs. Messenger and Co.,

Horticultural Builders, Loughboro’.- 0. A . Bearer .—

Tomatoes can be raised true from seed, and may also be
propagated from cuttings.

Names of fruit.— Oliver .—The ripe Pear is Williams’
Hon Chretien ; the others being unripe wo cannot name
them. Two or three specimens of each should always be

sent.-72. C .—We cannot name from the single specimen

sent. Sec our rules for correspondents.- W. D. P.— 1,

Doyenne de Ete ; 2. Chaumontellc (of no use in this
country).- M. T. (Haslemere).—Lord Suffleld.

Names Of plants .—M rs Boulnois .—Polemonium

ceoruleum variegatum (Jacob's Ladder).- Mrs. S. —

Common Figwort (Scrophularia nodosa).- S. M. —1 and

3. Too small to name ; 2, probably Retinospora squarrosa.

- Elsie. — 1, Pteris argyrea ; 2, Pteris cretica albo-

lineata ; 3, Pteris semilata.- S. T. — 1, Salvia

patens ; 2, Tritoma aloides ; 3, Salvia farmocea ; 4, Statice

profusa.- Sub. —1, Cupressus Lawsoniana ; 2, C. semper-

virens (both distinct species).- R. Bowlin.—I, Aster

b ?ssarabicus;2,Pyrethrumuliginosum;3 Stobacia purpurea.

- Scot. — Tropaoolum tuberosum.- J. Graham —1,

Lastrea dilatata; 2, Athyrium Filix-f.nmina; 3 Lastrea

spinulosa ; 4. Allosorus crispus.- U. P. D.—l, Blechnum

Spirant; 3, Polypodium Dryoptcris; 4. Asplenium Tricho-

itianes; 5, Lastrea dilatata.- Captain Bullock , R.l V.—

Rtibua odoratus.- J. Watkins.— Cannot possibly name

with certainty. No. 1 looks like a Canna.- R. A.

Albright.— Smilax mauritanica is the kind sent; it is hardy

against a wall.- Glanham .—Aralia papyrifera.- Elix.

—Euphorbia Lathyris- R. Van der Meersch—1, Asplenium

auriculatum ; 2, Microlcpia hirta syn-proxima ; 3 and 4,
Cannot identify for want of spores ; 5, Nephrodium pur-
purascen9 ; 6, Pteris quadriaurita ; 7, Cannot identify (no

spores);8, Anemiaoblongifolio.- 1. G .— 1, Lastreathelyp-

t.ris; 2, Lastrea Filix-mas; 3, Polystichum augulare ; 4,
Lastrea dilatata or spinulosa ; cannot say for certain for
want of characters. Though the abovo four specimens had
no spores they are so well known and so distinct that there
C-in be no mistake in the names. J. M .—Pteris intemata.

QUERIES.

Rales for Correspondents.—AC communication*

for insertion should be dearly and concisely written on one
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
a Idress of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
do plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the auery
a imered. When more than one query is sent each should
ft- on a separate piece of paper. Owing to the necessity oj
G * horning going to press a considerable, time before the day
of publication , it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again
Naming' plants or fruit.—Four plants, fruits, or
flowers only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens are sent. We do not undertake to
name varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
ft / a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
*oxvfi* should nUnaije accompany the parcel C'rrrrxpondctds
icho wish fruit to be arcurat'ly named shou’d retul several
specimens of each, shyvring the fruit in various stages.

12088.—Rhododendrons not blooming.—I have
five Rhododendrons, three of which are of a specially fine
kind. I have had them six years ; they have been moved
twice, but, although making wood and looking healthy,
thev never flower. Can anyone tell mo why, and what
shall I do to make them flower?—C. H. D.

12089.—Plumbago capensis in cold green¬
house.—Having a Plumbago capensis, which I am
anxious to keep through the winter, and only having an
unheated greenhouse at my command, I shall feol grateful
for any information concerning treatment of same.—E. L.

12090.—Variegated Ivies.—Referring to “ Notes on
Dies," in No. 276, I would bo glad if the writer, or any
other correspondent, could tell me where '* Hedera aurea
maculata, leaves three-lobed, small, but of the brightest
gold.’’ can be got. I have twice applied to one of the lead¬
ing firms in England. The first time they sent me II.
Helix canadensis aurea maculata ; the second time H.
Ilclix palmata aurea maculata. Surely neither of these
was meant by the writer on Ivies.—A Lover ok Ivies.

12091.—Hawthorns from cuttings.—Can you or
any reader say if cuttings or slips of the common Haw¬
thorn or Whitethorn will take root if planted under
favourable circumstances, or will they root under any
treatment?— James Wilson.

12092.—Moss on rockery. — I should bo much
obliged if any correspondent would tell me how to get rid
of a kind of Moss or Lichen from my rockery. It has
overrun the whole place, and seems to be killing the Ferns,
specially a beautiful crop of the Oak-fern which was
flourishing there. I kept it down for some time by scrap¬
ing it off the stones and taking it off the mould in flakes
with a trowel; but during a two months’ abscnco it has
teeome quite rampant, (dosing firmly round tho Ferns,
•hich have lost their healthy look, and trying to clear it
ofT only seems to make it grow tho faster. Could I dc-
it with anything without injuring the Ferns ?—
Mops a.

1*2093.—Tuberoses.—Will some successful cultivator
of Tuberoses kindly tell me the exact treatment o fthe
bulbs after flowering ? Should they be dried off similarly
to Begonias, or are they really worth wintering, as new
bulbs are so reasonable in price ^-W^sstbiry. >

Digitized by C,OOgle

12091.—Lawn sand.— Can any reader give me reliable
information about lawn sand ? I have road and heard a
great deal about it, but never yet met with any person who
had used it. If it kills Dandelions and Plaintains why docs
it not also kill Grass? I have a large growth of these
weeds on my lawn and wish to get rid of them without
taking up the lawn. I shall bo thankful for any informa¬
tion on tne subject.— S. Fisher.

12095.—Lichens or Moss for brick wall.— My
garden is surrounded by a brick wall which I should like
to hide and make pretty by growing something on the top
that would not interfere with climbing Roses and creepers.
How can I procure Lichen and Moss, and if grown on the
top of the wall would it cause my garden to become in¬
fested with slugs?—M. C. II.

12096.—Sunflowers and Hollyhocks.— In my
garden in the Tower of London I have a Sunflower plant 8
feet in height, with blooms 12 inches in diameter. I should
like to have the opinion of your numerous correspondents
whether they consider it a fairly good specimen. Some very
old inhabitants here aav they never saw finer grown in the
Tower. Last year I planted a Hollyhock which produced
no bloom spikes, and only attained a height of 2 feet. I
left it standing the winter, and this year it ha9 attained
a height of 9 feet, and, though late, produced bloom spikes.
The flower is of a rich dark red, and several flowers were
3} inches in diameter, grown in the Tower ditch, or moat,
under very adverse circumstances. Is this an unusual
size?—3rd (K.O.) Hussars.

12097.— Home-grown Tobacco.— Having boon
pretty successful with Tobacco plants this year I should
like to dry the leaves for use as an experiment. Would
someone kindly give me directions? It is not outdoor
grown and is showing for bloom.— Victor.

12098.—Cinerarias falling.— I have a splendid lot of
Cinerarias, but they keep dying by odd ones. They have
been regularly attended to and shaded from the hot sun,
but when once they flag they never look up again. I have
examined the soil but find no insect, and the roots are
quite healthy. I should be much obliged if any reader
oould tell me the reason.— Tiir Cedars.

1*2099.— Garden walks.— Will someone kindly tell
me what to do with my garden walks? They have not had
any gravel put on or anything done to them for some
years, consequently they are all in holes, and the weeds
grow through os though it were bare soil. Any informa¬
tion as to the cheapest and best method will be gladly
received by—M. C. E.

12100.—American Blackberries.—I have seen
reference made to American Blackberries. Can any reader
tell me where I can purchoso plants and at what price ?—
D. C. D.

12101.—Ivy on walls.— Whcro could I procure rough
trellis work to be placed over concrete at the side of a
house for Ivy to grow upon, as the plant will not adhere to
concrete ? I understand such trellis work can to be had
much cheaper than if made by a local carpenter.—E. M. P.

12102.— Potatoes sporting.— Lust autumn, in our
garden, I witnessed the digging of some Potatoes for the
daily use of the hous«. I was very much surprised seeing
one flne healthy root dug to find one dark red coloured
Potato amongst all the others of the same stalk, which
are white. So much struck by it was I that I carefully put
the Potato by, cut it in halves last spring, and planted
each of them, both of which have produced an abundant
crop of dark red Potatoes of tho very best quality, which
I ascertained by having threo of the Potatoes cooked for
trial. The remainder I intend keeping for seed for next
year. I think the Prolific (but of that I’m not certain) is
the namo of the Potato from which this (to me) strange
lusus nature has sprung. Will some readers give their
experience in such matters?— Asshbton Biddulpu.

12103.— Marechal Niel Rose.— It is an unusual thing
for a Marechal Niel Rose to flower at this season of the
year? I have one which produced a beautiful flower
about a week ago, I never knew of one doing so before.
When ought Rose Madaim Falcot to be pruned, which has
been flowering in a greenhouse all the summer?— Rosa.

12104.— Loughboro* boiler.— Would either “ M. P. ’’
or “ P. R. ” kindly inform me where their Loughboro’ boiler
is placed? Is it set outside or inside the greenhouse? I
am thinking of setting one Inside a greenhouse, but do not
know whether it would injure the plants.— Junius.

12105.— Canker on fruit trees.— Could any reader
of Gardening give some information as to the cause of
canker in fruit troes, the means of cure or prevention, and
the kinds of Apple trees least liable to it?—N. M.

12100.— Pear tree scale.— How can I destroy th : s
blight on Pear trees? The trees are smothered with it. I
have tried soft-soap and water.— Bournemouth.

12107.—Wasps.—Can anyone inf«rmme the best mode
of destroying wasps and their nests ? We are infested with
them.—T. A. N.

12108.—Fuchsia buds falling off.— What is tho
cause of Fuchsia buds falling off ? No fly can bo seen on
the plants, except that on the variegated kinds there are
some flat, white, small insects leaving black spots on the
leaves.— Weekly Subscriber.

12109.—Weedy lawn. — What can I do to a lawn
turfed eighteen months ago, which is almost covered with
Trefoil and other weeds instead of Grass ?—C. F. H.

12110.— Myrtles not flowering.—I have two fine
flowering Myrtles. They were apparently destroyed by the
severe frost of 1880, and had to be cut down nearly to the
ground. They have, however, recovered, and are* now as
flne and vigorous as ever, but they have never flowered
since. How can I get them to flower as before ?— Bourne¬
mouth.

12111.— Roses for exhibition.— Will someone kindly
give mo some information respecting Roses and their
culture? I intend planting a bod to produce blooms to
exhibit at small local shows. Are they best in the open
or sheltered? llow far should they be planted apart?
What kind of manure and how used? Are they best on
their own roots or on Mannetti stocks? Also I should
likethe names of fifty of the best for the above purpose.—

12112.—Heating greenhouse.— Would any reader
say size of coil boiler, and also size of pipes required to heat
greenhouse 9 feet bv 7 feet, 8 feet high at back, and 4
feet at front? Should I require more than one flow and

return (say along front) for ordinary purposes? Wha
would be probable cost of tho coil ana pipes ? I should
build furnace and tit up pipes myself.— Perplexed One.

12113.—Liliumauratum.— What treatmentdoLiliuni
auratum bulbs require after floweiing, and can they
grow in tho house another season, or should they be
planted out in the open ground out of doors ?—A. B.

12113.—Tropeeolum tuberosum. — I should be
obliged for information respecting Tropmolum tuberosum.
What treatment does it require ? Is it difficult to flower?
Three tubers were planted against a south east wall last
year, this year they have grown luxuriantly, but have
shown no sign of floweiing. This year three more tubers
were planted against the same wall, but a little moro
shaded ; they have also not flowered.— M. F. 8.

12114.—Building a fernery.—I am about building
a fernery, 16 feot by 10 feet; will anyone givo me advice
in the matter ? I have heard that it is best to sink it 6 feet
below the ground line, also to lime the walls with limestone ;
3hall be glad to hear if this is correct. Should the glass be
clear or clouded, and what should be the minimum tempera¬
ture ?— H. II. Portway, Halstead, Essex.

12115.— Begonia semperflorens.— Will someone be
good enough to tell mo how to cause Begonia semperfioreng
to grow in bushy form ? Mine has grown 2 feet high with
no side branches.— Scintilla.

BEES.

SEASONABLE NOTES.

A great test of efficiency in the management
of bees is wintering them safely. All stocks
should be now strong in bees, and a large
proportion of them young, who will live tbrougli
the winter, and be in a vigorous state to begin
the duties of providing stores for the hive as
early as weather permits in the following spring.

Stimulative Feeding. —As soon as the in¬
come of honey ceases, the queen discontinues
laying, but brood raising may be encouraged
after this period by stimulative feeding, whereby
the queen is prompted to continue laying, young
bees are brought into life, and the population
increased till the latest period consistent with
safety. It must not, however, he carried on
later than the beginning of October, lest cold
weather settling in should cause the brood to
become chilled, chilled broods sometimes being
the forerunner of that worst of bee diseases—foul
broods. In stimulative feeding the syrup is
made thinner than that given for making up
weight of stores. After the beginning of October
all hives with less than twenty pounds of stores
should be made up to that weight, at least, by
rapid feeding with syrup, made in the propor¬
tion of 10 lb. of sugar to 5 pints of water. In
a general way every hive should contain two
square feet of sealed honeycomb, as well as
that unsealed ; the latter will serve as provi¬
sion for the bees until they settle down for the
winter. Some bee-keepers extract all unsealed
honey at this season, lest it should cause damp¬
ness in the hive, from evaporation, and promote
dysentery among the bees.

Uniting. —A strong stock will do far more
work in a given time than two or three weak
ones ; it is, therefore, a stroke of good policy to
unite weak colonies, or join them to their
stronger neighbours, that there may be none
left to winter without a good chance of coming
through safely, and doing well in the spring ;
a large cluster of bees being able to maintain
the necessary degree of warmth in cold weather
better than when divided into two, and the con¬
sumption of food is less. Colonies in bar-frame
hives can be united with very little disturbance to
the bees, or even removing them from their combs.
The hives to be united, having been gradually
brought together by moving them 2 or 3 feet
every day (excepting those days the bees are
not able to fly abroad), should be opened and
the bees smoked, and the combs with adhering
bees removed and placed in one hive; should
there be more combs than one hive can receive,
the combs containing brood should be placed in
the centre, and the hive filled up with those
containing sealed honey. During this operation
the superior queen (if there is a difference in
age or fertility) can be removed. After giving
another good smoking the quilt should be re¬
placed, when the bees, being of the same scent,
will peaceably unite.

Providing full hives. —Needy stocks will
take much time to fill combs for themselves,
and may be helped out by making use of strong
stocks to fill empty combs for them. By placing
bars of empty comb close to the brood-nest of
strong colonies and feeding liberally, the combs
will soon be filled and sealed, when they
can be removed and given to hives needing help.
This will obviate the disadvantages of liberally
feeding needy stocks, as all unsealed combs

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

372

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 4, 1884.

can be removed when the feeding is completed ;
consequently there will be no injury to the
bees, as a batch of young bees, produced under
the stimulative effect of feeding, will have taken
the place of old ones. To enable the bees to
reach their stores in the combs adjoining the
bee nest, each comb should have a hole cut
through it (if not already formed by the bees)
about 3 inches from the top, and half an inch
in diameter. These passage-holes can be easily
formed by passing a penknife through the comb
and twisting it round. Where sugar, cake, or
candy is given to winter upon, these passages
are not necessary, as the space it occupies under
the quilt gives the bees a passage over the
frames. Sugar cake is made by boiling about
three-quarters of a pint of water, and gradually
stirring into it C lb. of loaf sugar, keep¬
ing it stirred to prevent burning. Ordinary
sugar-candy of trade is also good bee food.
Barley sugar is not suitable, as acid is used in
its manufacture, which would cause it to liquify
and run down between the combs.

Boxworth. S. S. G.

Feeding syrup. —I have been making
syrup for feeding my bees according to direc¬
tions given in a bee-book— i.e ., 3 lb. of loaf-
sugar to 1 quart of water, with a pinch of salt
and few drops of vinegar added ; but after the
syrup is cold it candies round the sides of any
vessel in which it is placed, and after I had fed
with it for some time I found the bees employed
in carrying small pellets of the candied stuff out
of the hives, the floor of which was covered with
them. I ought to mention that I dissolve the
sugar over the fire, and boil two minutes after
it is all dissolved. What have I done wrong ?
—C. [The syrup should be boiled longer, and
a larger proportion of sugar used. To a quart
of boiling water add 4 lb. of loaf-sugar. When
dissolved and beginning to boil again, add a
saltspoonful of acetic acid, and continue to boil
rapidly for about 10 minutes until the smell of
the acid has evaporated. If preferred an ounce
of vinegar may be used instead of the acetic
' l.-S. 8. ~ ‘

acid.-

■ G.]

POULTRY.

Moulting —At this season it may bo as well
to remind breeders what they should do, so that
their birds may not only be carried through this
period safely, but quickly. The sooner the bird
gets rid of its old feathers and is provided with
a new covering, the sooner will the owner be
provided with eggs. Various nostrums
advertised and recommended to procure a rapid
moult, but I have found it always better and
more profitable in the end to assist rather than
force nature. There aro some birds which
moult later than others, and old birds generally
are the most troublesome in this respect, and
moult later year by year as they grow older.
Some seasons are better than others for hasten¬
ing moulting, a hot dry summer tending to
brmg it on earlier. By this time of the year
most fowls—excepting old cocks—should be
well through the moult. Cocks are more tardy
in getting their plumage than hens, their long
tail feathers taking a long while to grow. Fowls
allowed to roost outside in cart sheds, or on
fruit trees, will always be the longest in moult¬
ing, often not beginning to lose their feathers
before tfcie others have got their new ones.
Warm housing is therefore the first requisite,
and all birds are better in the fowl-house at
night, even though it be rather small, provided
it is thoroughly clean. A fat bird never moults
well or quickly; therefore, during the first
stages it should not be fed so heavily as is often
recommended. But should the moult be re¬
tarded, and the shedding of the feathers be
suddenly stopped, a little sulphate of iron
should be put in the drinking water, and nature
left to herself. Little else will be needed if
care is taken that the bird is kept from wet,
and has a warm house provided for it to roost
in. The best moult is that of a hen which
shows no signs of moulting the night previous,
yet is found the next morning almost naked.
In a very short time she will have her new
plumage on and be laying. Previous to moult,
birds should not be overfed nor the food too
stimulating, but during the later stage more
food may be given, and it should be good,
sound, and wholesome. A little boiled animal

food may be added. The old feathers should
be carefully collected every day, placed in a
bag, and dried in the oven or elsewhere, the
ends of the stout quill feathers being previously
clipped off.—P.

Jacobin pigeons.— Whcro and at what price oan I
procure hen Jacobin pigeons?—L. C. Marshall.

BIRDS.

Parrot with swelled beak.— Your bird
may have injured his beak in the wires of the
cage, or the swelling you notice may be a
tumour or scab. Dip a clean feather in warm
milk and bathe the swelling. Should it appear
to be forming a head, prick with a needle, bathe
with warm milk, and afterwards anoint with
Vasaline ointment; but unless you are quite
sure it is tumour do not prick it, simply bathe
with milk. I believe your bird is suffering from
asthma, caused by food being too dry and heat¬
ing, or by giving too many sweets, &c., which
are very injurious. Feed on boiled bread and
milk. Be sure the milk is not allowed to turn
sour, and the milk must be boiled. Give a little
fruit and nuts occasionally, and unsweetened
biscuits. Encourage the bird to bathe. This
will keep him healthy. Never give a bath in a
cold room; it may occasion death. Should
bread and milk cause diarrhoea at first, give
other food occasionally.—M. C. H.

- If this is on the beak itself it may some¬
times be cut out with some degree of safety,
but if on the flesh it is best left alone, except by
experienced hands. It no doubt arises from the
bird being out of health ; therefore, it would be
as well to give it some olive oil as a purgative,
and also a tonic, such as Chard’s Finchine.
However, it is always difficult to prescribe for
a bird from a meagre description of its ailments.
Keep the bird out of draughts, but do not
pamper it.—A. d’A.

- In answer to “A. E. M.,” I think the

best treatment for the parrot would be to bathe
the swelling with cold water. Give the bird
empty reels and Fir cones to play with, and let
it fly about a great deal. Be Bure to keep its
cage very clean with gravel, not sand, at the
bottom ; and till its health is better do not
tease it with talking. The secret of keeping
Parrots in health is to give them plenty of
water, plain food, and no meat.—Y. G. Z.

Birds for aviary.—I presume you have
not the back numbers of Gardening Illus¬
trated, or you would have seen several of my
articles on how to build an outdoor aviary, and
also what birds to put in. Unless you particu¬
larly insist on having It in your conservatory,
I should advise you to build the aviary in the
open air, as a conservatory is a great deal too
hot in summer for birds, and artificial heat is
not what they require. If you like I will lend
you my numbers of Gardening, in which you
will see how to build an aviary. The following
list of small birds would no doubt suit you :—
Chaffinch, goldfinch, linnet, siskin, bullfinch,
canaries, as many as you like—say, three cocks
and a dozen hens. There are plenty of foreign
birds that would agree with the above; amongst
others, budgerigars, turquoisines, J ava sparrows,
spice birds, cutthroats - not so dangerous as
their name would imply, being very harmless,
pretty little birds. There are many others that
I can give you at a future time, but I daresay
that the above list will suit you for the present.
Feed the above on a mixture of canary, hemp,
millet, and rape seeds, plenty of fresh water
and sand, and green food of any sort.—A. d’A.

Painting an aviary. —Painting inside an
aviary will not hurt the birds, providing they
are not put in until the paint has become quite
dry. As far as I am concerned, I prefer to
whitewash the inside and paint outside only, as
it is not only cheaper, but can bo done at any
time, the more the better. If you particularly
wish to paint the inside, do so by all means,
but do not put the birds in until the paint has
become quite dry and free from smell.—A. d’A.

- Paint should never bo used for aviary’ or cage ; it

is very injurious to birds. Stain cither oak, walnut, or
mahogany, size twice when dry, varnish with brown bard
varnish : the size prevents varnish sinking into the wood.
I varnish my aviary, cages, &c., once or twice a year to
prevent insects taking up their abode within any holes,
&c.-M. c. n.

but afterwards they commenced to pine away, their
feathers standing on end, and in a fow days all in the iust.
four in number, would be dead. The cage was cleansed
every morning and their food, ordinary birdseed. Any
information as to the cause will obligo.— Ivra.

AQUARIA.

Fish breeding in aquaria.—I have read
with great interest “ W. J. Stanton’s” note in last
week’s Gardening, and can fully endorse all he
says. Some years ago, I think in 1878, 1 myself
bred some sticklebacks under conditions almost
exactly similar to those described by him. In
my case, however, the male or “ Redbreast ”
killed each of the three females, within
two days of their being placed in the aqua¬
rium. I sent an account of the “ interesti ng
event,” with a description of the aquaria, to
“ Science Gossip,” but I have since parted with
the volumes and cannot now refer to it. I should
be very glad if “W. J. Stanton” would state
where he got his ten-spined sticklebacks. The
Rev. J. G. Wood in his large Natural History
(page 225) says :—“The ten-spined stickleback
is nearly if not quite as plentiful as the three-
spined fish but I must say it is not so about
here. I have been trying for years to get some,
and have never been able to do so. It is difficult
to say what is the matter with “Aber tame’s ”
aquarium. He does not say whether it is a new
one or not. I should recommend a thorough
cleaningout, well washing with sand and shingle,
and replanting it with weed. I should discon¬
tinue the “regular supply of water,” as there is
generally more harm than good in a stream of
fresh water through an aquarium ; if the same
water can be got #0 circulate in any way (and
that is easily managed), it is all right. I should
let it stand for some weeks to let the -weed
get thoroughly established, at the same time
putting in a few small snails to help to keep the
glass clearer. As soon as the weed begins to
grow the fish may be put in—it is no use doing
so before. The great thing is to keep down the
number of fish ; an overcrowded aquarium never
does well.—T. S., Chesterfield.

HOUSEHOLD.

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> Google

HOMEMADE BREAD
Every housekeeper ought to be able to make
the bread for the household over which she
presides, so that if she be not obliged to make it
with her own hands, she can at least instruct
those under her how to do it properly. Bread,
when properly prepared, should be light, soft,
and spongy, and it should bo the aim of the
family bread-maker to raise her broad to this
standard. Bread is best baked once a week. Hot
bread is very injurious to persons with weak
digestions, and should only be eaten sparingly
by anyone. Who does not know the flutfy,
blown-up stuff sold by bakers as bread, of which
when one takes a bite he is surprised where it
has all gone to after it is masticated. There is
neither substance nor nutriment in such stuff,
and it should be shunned by all who have any
regard to health. And the wet, sodden, salty
bread of some home-bakers is almost if not quite
as bad. I will now giro the family bread-maker
a hint which perhaps she may never have
noticed. Salt counteracts the effects of yeast,
so that the more salt that is used themore sodden
and heavy does the bread become. Bread also
baked too long—until it is brown for an inch in
the inside of the loaf—is not wholesome : the
good flavour is all baked away, and nothing
remakis but a dried up “izle,” The great
thing is to strike the “ happy medium,” and by
careful attention and the help of the great
schoolmaster, experience, this is soon found out.
And once more, bread should be compact, with
very small air-cells interspersed through its sub¬
stance. Large air-cells in bread are generally
due to insufficient kneading or its being left too
long to rise before the fire. From ten minutes
to a quarter of an hour is quite sufficient to
allow it to rise before a bright, clear fire, turn- ^
ing it frequently to make it rise equally all over,
but here again experience will help.

How TO MAKE GOOD bread. —The ingredientsj
are two stones of the best flour— it is no economy
to buy inferior sorts—three-peunyworth Germaij
yeast, lukewarm water, and salt. Put thi

~ __. , . _ . . ., . . . flour into a large baking bowl and make a ho!|

Canaries aylnsf.— This season I commenced hatch- < . , ® f .. rP. .» A __

ing canaries. I got seven neste from one pair of birds, * ^he centre of lt,j- Put the yeast into 1 ‘
The young ones seemed to do well for about two weeks, basin, a teaspoonful of sugar may be a<laf

univeKsityof lungs at

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

OCTOBER 11, 1881.

No. 292.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

Tom Thumb Nasturtiums.— These are
the glory of the seed farms, for everywhere they
light them up with their tiery colours ; indeed
it would be a difficult matter to convey by the
pen an idea of the gorgeous effects produced by
acres of these splendid annuals. They are
grown to an enormous extent, and every year
they seem to become more and more in demand ;
it is not going too far to predict that in course
of time this dwarf race of Tropieolums will
quite supplant the scarlet Pelargonium in the
garden for bedding purposes, seeing that they
are quite as effective and quite as continuous
flowerers, and do not give half the trouble and
no expense in preserving them under glass
throughout the winter, as they come perfectly
true from seeds. There are upwards of a dozen
varieties, and some of the newest are simply per¬
fection in every respect; of these the finest are
Ruby King, of a bright carmine crimson;
Golden King, a fine clear yellow ; King of Tom
Thumbs, vivid scarlet; Spotted King of Tom
Thumbs, yellow blotched with crimson; King
Theodore, one of the darkest, being a blackish
crimson ; Empress of India, which is a splendid
Bort. It is the embodiment of a first-rate dwarf
Nasturtium, being dwarf and compact in
rowth, very floriferous, and of an intense, yet
rilliant crimson, which creates a magnificent
effect when seen cn masse. It seems to be
later to flower than the rest, and is obviously
a very desirable addition to earlier aorta.
The Empress is of great value for bedding pur¬
poses in gardens which require to be at their
gayest during August and September. These
six sorts comprise the cream of the collection of
the dwarf race, though, of course, such old-
established favourites as Crystal Pfthu
the old Scarlet Beauty, and cu*ruleum roseum
cannot be ignored, though the novelties surpass
them in many respects. In the newer sorts
there is a conspicuous dark tinted foliage run¬
ning through all, which seems to point to the
supposition that there is a good deal of the
Lohbianum blood among them, which is pro¬
bably the case. There is one other that deserves
mention, not so much for its value as a garden
plant as for its scarcity. It is the old T. minus,
which was introduced about the same time os
T. majus, but has not been favoured by that
attention as regards improvement as its larger
relative. It is a dwarf plant, with flowers about
half the size of those of an ordinary T. majus,
and easily distinguished by the veins of the
leaf terminating in bristle-like points, and by
tbe petals being also tipped with bristles. The
colour is orange and Bcarlet.

Double Auriculas. —I possess a large
collection of alpine Auriculas, which I have, in
the course of years, raised from seed procured
from various seedsmen. The plantB all bloomed
freely last spring. Some of them exhibited a
slight tendency to produce double flowers. The
prolonged and still prevailing warm autumn
weather has forced them all again into flower.
Believing that such exceptional autumn flower¬
ing lessens and weakens the succeeding and
proper spring bloom, I have endeavoured (I
suppose judiciously) to prevent the result of
such exhaustion, by cutting awav all the

* flowers so soon as they show themselves. One

-1 of the plants has now produced a very perfect

* and fine-coloured double flower. It was the
only flower on the scape that bore it. On
another scape of same plant there was at the same
time an umbel of two flowers — one of the
flowers single and the other semi-double. The
segments of the sepals of the latter formed the
usual circular margin of the flower, while an
inner and upright set formed a circle round the

^ throat of the corolla of the other, differing in
this respect from the enclosed flower, where the
segments are intersected and cross the surface

' y t of the flower. Hod the plant produced double
' a flowers in the spring I corfT(Tho.t have failld in

r observing them. /May I ublOcp^ra

on the same plant in future ? And further, if it
frequently happens that one plant thus produces
simultaneously double, semi-double, and single
flowera on one or more scapes, and reverts to
single flowers during the next season, the
irregularity in the present case leads one to fear
that the duality will not prove constant.—J. G.

The Snowdrop in Somersetshire.—
Anything that throws a light on the native
habitats of beautiful plants may be useful to
those interested in naturalising them, or intro¬
ducing them to fresh places. The little illus¬
tration herewith given shows one of the homes of
the .Snowdrop in Somersetshire, where it grows
in spots that at first sight would be thought
unsuitable. It grows in a woody valley with a
stream running through its centre, l>oth in
places where there is an open carpet of Grass,
and also on the margin of the stream, under the
shade of bushes, and about the stumps of old
Hazel trees and Alders. In a low-lying, damp
wood, near the same valley or “ bottom," thev
grow abundantly under decidnous trees and
under bushes. In both these places they dis-

Baowdrops In '‘bottom” in Somersetshire.

play great beauty in early spring. Snowdrops
may be planted now, also Crocuses and other
spring-flowering bulbs.

Ohusan Palm (Chanwrops Fortune;).—
This, though classed and cultivated as a green¬
house Palm, having in many parts of the king¬
dom withstood without or with but a slight
amount of protection several rigorous winters,
may now, 1 think, be included in the hardy
list; at any rate, it may safely be classed as one
of the hardest amongst plants suited for sub¬
tropical bedding, a purpose for which it has
proved invaluable, being specially effective in
isolated positions on turf, as a recess plant, or
for breaking the sometimes unavoidable formality
that exists when a number of beds have to be
arranged in a restricted space. Plants of it,
when used for this purpose, must bo grown in
large pots or tubs, and be given house room in
winter ; but where permanent effect is dcBired,
the situation a sheltered ono, and the sub-soil
well drained, then by all means plant out. We
have a couple of plants of this Palm hero that
have withstood all weathers since 1S09 ; they
are now nearly 14 feet high, and in the most
luxuriant growth. Even small plants of it, too,
h we just as successfully defied our sharp winters.
Moderately stiff loam is the soil in which they ap¬

pear to do best, and when planted out it is neces¬
sary toapplyafresh top-dressing of this annually.
Those in pots or tubs, however, do not need
this if during the summer they are given manure
water once a week. They are raised from seeds,
which germinate in about a mouth if afforded a
bottom heat of 75 degs.— Hants.

WATERSIDE PLANTS.

The plants that grow by the waterside, so much
admired in natural scenery, are seldom taken
so much advantage of for cultivating as they
might be ; otherwise the bare water edges so
often found in connection with lakes and othar
ornamental water would be of less frequent
occurrence than they are. With the vast re¬
sources of Buit&ble plants at our service,. if
appropriately employed, the margins of artificial
water might be made to surpass even the choicest
examples of natural riverside vegetation. In
the majority of cases, if the edges of artificial
water are clothed at all, they have a monotonous
appearance on account of tho continuous fringes
of plants of a commonplace type used ; whereas
if a greater variety of kinds of varied height,
habit, and flower were employed and disposed
in bold irregular groups—some close to the
margins, others at a distance from them, and
some even partly submerged—some of the most
charming effects could thereby be obtained.
The principal consideration is a knowledge of
the positions in which the plants thrive nest,
the degree of moisture in which they will flourish;
then grouping them effectively is easily accom¬
plished. The following enumeration consists
wholly of rigorous growing plants that when
once planted con take care of themselves. Our
native flora affords great numbers of really
handsome waterside plants, many of which arc
in no way inferior to exotic kinds. Amongst
the showiest are the

Willow Herbs (Epilobium).—These, being
well known, need bnt little description ; of the
former, E. angustifolium is the finest. In rich
moiBt soil it grows 5 feet or 0 feet high, and in
summer is covered with a profusion of showy
purple-red flowers. There is a white variety
which is even more effective than the type, as
the colour is so uncommon among water plants.
The great Willow Herb, or Codlins and Cream
(E. hirsutnm), is a true water plant, and though
not bo showy as the preceding should never be
omitted. Also of the Purple Loosestrife
(Lythrum Salicaria) there aro now some ex¬
tremely fine varieties; one, named superbum,
may be said to be the finest of all hardy flowers,
and all the Epilobiums are excellent companions
for our beautiful native Meadow Sweets
(Spirits). .

Many of the Grasses of the larger type flourish
better in moist places near the water than else¬
where. One of the handsomest is tho

Great Rf.ed Grass (Arundo Donax), which
grows 10 feet and even 15 feet in height when
planted near the margins of water where tho
roots are continually moist. It requires, how¬
ever, a rather sheltered position, as it is apt to
he injured by severe cold or cutting winds. A
hold isolated group of this noble Grass is one of
the fairest types of hardy vegetation which we
possess, yet, singular as it may appear, it is often
overlooked.

The New Zealand Reed Grass (Arundo
conspicua), as well as the Pampas G rasa (Gynerium
argenteum), flourish by water far better than
in other positions, provided there is not an
excessive amount of stagnant moisture about the
roots. One or two kinds of Lyme Grass (Elymus)
are excellent for plauting in wet places where
choicer plants would not flourish, tUe most suit¬
able beiug E. giganteua, which grows some
4 feet or 5 feet high; E. virginicus, and
canadensiB, both North American species
of tall vigorous growth. Some of our British
Grasses ot noble aspect.look well if planted in
distinct groups, and trot : allowed to run in u
monotonous ir inge.-pjThtt ffiepfc of -these are the
common Reed (Arundo Fhragmites), which

UR BA NA-CHAMPAIGN

374

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 11, 1884.

abounds in many parts in wet ditches; the
Wood Small Reed (Calamagrostis Epigejos),
which grows from 3 feet to 4 feet high and
flourishes as well in open wet places as in woods
and thickets ; Purple Small Reed (C. lanceo-
lata), taller than the last; the Reed Grass
(Digraphis arundinacea), from 3 feet to 5 feet,
with broad leaves and handsome plumes from 6
inches to 8 inches in length—all interesting
when properly planted.‘There is a variety of
this with variegted leaves called the Ribbon
Grass or Gardener’s Garters. A good
effect is obtained by some of the in¬
digenous Grasses forming a fringe to a natural
river or lake. Among the choicer exotic
Grasses of large growth are Eulalia japonica, 5
feet high, Gymnothrix latifolia, Erianthus
Ravennai, Stipa gigantea, Sorghum halepense,
and Aniropogon strictus—all of which delight
in moist situations.

Bamboos. —There is no other type of hardy
plants from which such beautiful effects can be
produced by water margins as from the various
kinds of Bamboos which thrive so finely in our
climate. Planted by the side of a running
stream, or near the margin of a lake or pool,
they succeed better than in any other place, and
soon attain a great height. Among the hardest
are Arundinaria falcata, Bambusa arundinacea,
Metake, viridis glaucescens, nigra, and Phyllos-
tachys bambusoides.

Sedges and Rushes. —The majority of the
former are essentially water plants, and many
of them form beautiful objects when planted in
bold groups. For this purpose one of the
finest and most suitable among Carexes is
Carex paniculata, a native species, which grows
into luxuriant tufts as high as 4 feet if planted
in wet boggy places in which little else will
grow. Then there is the extremely graceful C.
pendula, one of the largest of our native
Carexes, with its long catkin-like spikelets,
produced in early summer on plants 3 feet high.
The Fox Carex, as well as C. acuta, are like¬
wise well adapted for wet places, each attaining
2 feet or 3 feet in height, and of C. acuta there
is a handsome variety with variegated foliage.
There is also a variegated-leaved variety of C.
riparia, which is very handsome and retains its
character well, even in water.

One of our handsomest native water-loving
plants is the Galingale (Cyperus longus), whose
stout stems, terminated by singular tufts of
leaves, attain a height of even 4 feet or 5 feet.
As it flourishes best when its lower parts are
wholly submerged, it is a capital subject for
planting in shallow water at a little distance
from the margin. When disposed in bold
groups, and these not repeated too often, it
greatly relieves the somewhat monotonous
appearance of an even fringe along the water’s
edge. Another fine Cyperus is vegetus, which
has wider leaves than the last and lighter green
in colour, but it does not grow so tall. Nearly
allied to the Cyperuses are the

Club Rushes (Scirpus).—S. triqueter (3 feet
high), S. lacustris (from 4 feet high), and S.
Holoschcenus, a stiff Rush-like plant (some 3
feet high), are all excellent waterside plants.
Of similar growth is the Prickly Twig Rush
(Cladium Mariscus), which is useful for planting
in poor and wet soil where little else would
thrive.

Irises. —In addition to the common yellow
Flags (I. Pseudacorus and fcetidissima) several
of the other kinds make good water plants,
particularly I. sibirica, a tall-growing kind with
glossy foliage and flowers either of a rich purple
or white. The beautiful Kaempfer’s Iris, too,
though not of large size, must be included in our
list, as it flourishes best in wet places, and if
such a position could be allotted to it, where the
water now and then could bo made to flow over
the soil for 1 inch or so in depth, it would, if
planted in a peaty soil, flourish far better than
in an ordinary border.

Among plants remarkable for fine leafage few
excel the large Water Dock (Rumex Hydrolapa-
thum), the leaves of which grow nearly 3 feet
long, and they are nearly 1 foot across, remind¬
ing one of a Banana plant in miniature. In
some situations it grows as much as 5 feet high,
and forms a bold plant close to the water’s
edge, where the roots would be continually sub¬
merged.

The Great Spearv^ort (Ranunculus Lingua)
is another of oi^f boLT-Joliaae* native plants
which grow from^Jyi.^ 4 ilrf l%h, and has

long broad leaves of a pale-green colour. Its
flowers are showy, being of a bright shining
yellow, and more than 1 inch across. A position
similar to that recommended for the last suits it
best.

The Yellow Pond Lily (Nuphar advena), a
plant with large, broad, deep-green leaves, is
one of the noblest of hardy aquatics, and the
only kind that sends its leaves erect out of the
water to as great a height as 3 feet. The bases
of the plants should be submerged to about
1 foot or 1^ feet in depth. They should be
planted in bold groups a little way from the
margin, and surrounded by Water Lilies and
other aquatics with floating leaves.

Butterbur (Tussilago Petasites).—This is a
noble plant when in its largest state, and looks
pleasing by the banks of a stream, where it
delights to spread. The Burdocks, too (Arc¬
tium), though they naturally affect poor, dry
soils, attain enormous dimensions by the side
of water, but they must not be planted so near
that their roots are submerged.

Sweet Flag (Acorus Calamus).—This is a
reed-like plant growing some 3 feet or more in
height. It is a very vigorous plant, and soon
spreads itself over a wide area, and will over¬
run plants of weaker growth if not checked ; it
is, however, a handsome plant, and the highly
aromatic leaves make it the more desirable. It
should be planted at the base of a projection,
or, better still, around an islet, so that it may
be kept within bounds. The Bur Reed (Spar-
ganium) is somewhat similar, but more tufted
than the Sweet Flag, and not nearly such a rapid
grower.

The Great Bulrushes or Cat’s-tails (Typha
latifolia), which in autumn are furnished with
black, club-like flower-spikes, though abundant
in many parts of the country, should always be
planted where not indigenous, as they are so
distinct in aspect from most water plants. T.
stenophylla and T. minima are a like graceful
plants, growing in tall dense tufts.

Pontederias, of which there are three species,
are about 3 feet high. They have arrow-shaped
leaves and blue flowers of various tints, pro¬
duced on stout stalks well above the foliage.
The three kinds require to be planted in 1 foot
or so of water, and are therefore well adapted
for planting a little way from the margin.
Another noble plant which, unfortunately, is
not quite hardy, is Thalia dealbata, a Maranta-
like plant from South Carolina, growing some
6 feet in height, with large handsome leaves of a
glaucous green hue.

Flowering Rush (Butomus umbellatus), one
of our native plants, should adorn the margins
of every piece of ornamental water, as it is not
only an elegant plant as regards foliage, but its
blossoms, which are produced in large umbels,
are rosy tinted and beautiful.

The Water Plantain (Alisma Plantago) is a
bold plant, which often attains 3 feet in height.
It grows in watery ditches and edges of streams ;
the leaves are broad, similar to those of the
Great Spear wort.

Caladium virginicum is a noble Aroidaceous
plant having large, broad leaves, arrow-shaped,
and of a deep green. It is excellent for plant¬
ing in shallow streams or pools, in about 6 inches
of w’ater. It rises 2 feet or 3 feet in height in a
manner similar to the Callas or Richardias,
which should on no account be omitted. Other
highly ornamental North American water plants
are the

Giant Horsetail (Equisetum Telmateia).—
This is an extremely fine plant when fully
grown, and one which attains several feet in
height in moist, shady places, producing grace¬
ful plumes of pendulous, thread-like branches in
drooping whorls of a cheerful green colour. It
is by far the finest of all the Horsetails, but
seldom seen in full growth. The finest group
we ever saw was in the garden at Bitton, where
Mr. Ellacombe had it growing near a wall, and
there it had a very striking and handsome
appearance.

There are many other plants which, though
not strictly aquatic, flourish well near water
and have a fine effect, as, for example, a group
of Flame-flow’ers (Kniphofia). Other plants
may be similarly treated, such as the Giant
Knotweed (Polygonum cuspidatum and sacha-
linense), Astilbe rivularis, Senecio japonicus,
North American Lilies, several of the larger
Spiraeas, Trollius, the Royal Fern (Osmunda
regalis), Lysimachias, and many others. W.

12067.—Marvel of Peru. —Sow Eeed in
March or April; best in gentle heat; a hotbed
will do. Pot off when the plants have made
four leaves ; protect from cold until time to bed
out, end of May or early in June. The plants
will blossom the same year. Lift the roots
when the leaves and stalks have died down, and
store them in a warm, but not hot, place in sand
during the winter. Start the roots in slight
heat, and plant out as before mentioned. You
wall get seed of any good seedsmen, and very
likely roots.—J. P.

- I have a variety of these lovely plants In full flower

in my garden. The seeds were sown in the open ground
in the spring of last year, and were finely grown, but did no;
flower. The majority were taken up before the frost,
dried, and stored for the winter, but decayed before
spring; while tho*e left unprotected in the ground are now
in fine flower.— Toosb.

12007. — Abutilons out-of-doors. — I
have a large plant of the yellow striped variety,
which was planted out-of-doors in May, 1883,
and only had the protection last winter of some
ashes heaped over its roots. It grows against
a wall facing east, and well sheltered from north
winds. Its stem is now 2 inches in circum¬
ference, and the plant is about 15 feet in height,
and is covered with blooms. It must, of course,
be borne in mind that last winter was an
unusually mild one, and that this plant enjoys a
favourable position, being sheltered from the
north winds, as well as from the south-west
gales, which are very severe here.—F. G. C.,
Lewes.

12050.— Carnations or Picotees.— In
order to have even six Carnation or Picotee
blooms for exhibition a dozen varieties at least
of each should be grown. The best six Carna¬
tions are Admiral Curzon, William Skirving,
Sarah Payne, James Douglas, Henry Cannell,
and Sybil, that iB one from each class. The best
Picotees are John Smith, Mrs. Gorton, Muriel,
Her Majesty, Constance Heron, and Mrs.
Alcroft. The best time to plant them out is in
October, or they may be planted in February
carefully from pots. In the south of England
they would be in flower about the end of July.
In the north of England and Scotland they may
be in bloom about the 1st of September, but it
would only be a few late sorts. Six good
Phloxes are A. F. Barron, Coccinea, Chanzy,
Countess of Aberdeen, Amabilis, and Hoi des
Blanches. Plants must be purchased, as florists’
flowers do not come true from seed.—-J. D. E.

12057.—Single Dahlias.—Deal with these
as with the double kinds. Lift them when the
frost has cut down the stems, which ent off
about 4 inches above the tubers. Turn them
upside down, so as to allow any moisture to run
out of the stems. Get the tubers clear of soil
and dry, and in a few days store them away in
a warm, dry place. Avoid heat, damp, and
frost. My Cactus variety has made great
growth and blossomed well. Possibly, you did
not manure enough when planting, or w’ater
(manure water is good) during the dry, hot
weather.—J. P.

- Do not winter the roots in a cold frame, as they

would be touched by the frost. If you have no cellar,
pack them in open boxes loosely between layers of straw,
and place in a cool room, dark if possible. The Cactus
Dahlia may have failed to bloom owing to being planted in
too confined a situation. This is often the cause of failure
with Dahlias.—K., Southend .

1*2041.—Bulbs for next spring.—If they cannot be
planted out until next year it would be best to pot them
now, keep them plunged out-of-doors, and carefol If
transfer them from the pots to the open ground early in
tho year.—J. D. E.

12069.— Violet Marie Louise.— The lights should be
placed over them as soon as the cold weather sets in. At
present they may be left open to the weather. The plant*
will flower well in a cool greenhouse if they are well
established in the pots or boxes, and are placed near the
glass, where they will get plenty of light and air.—J. D. E.

12045.—Propagating double Nasturtiums.—
They strike easily from cuttings put in a frame with
Verbenas and other such plants ; in a close frame or hand-
light.—J. D. E.

Sunflowers.— In tho Gardening of *20thult “Nita”
mentions having grown Sunflowers 10 feet high and 42
inches in circumference; these are much smaller than
ours grown on clay soil near London, Borne of which
measure 47, 49, 60J, 51, and 63 inches in circumference,
although not more than 6 feet to 8 feet high.—E. F.
Lawrence.

Mesembryanthemum tricolor.— On sunny days
there is nothing in the way of annuals to surpass in hrilli- 1
ancy this little plant, which, from its dwarf, compact,
tufted habit, is so peculiarly adapted for ruck work, edg_
ings, and such like places, always remembering that it musii
be placed perfectly exposed, and where it can get as niucif
1 sun as possible, for it is a great sun lover, and refuses tf
thrive if shaded iron it. It requires a light, loamy soil t
do well, and a well-drained border. Besides the ordinal
' typif,3here is t, pure whlto form (albuin) 3 which la lovely

Oct. 11, 1884,]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

875

lupines.

Throughout the whole of hardy annuals none
perhaps are so generally grown as Lupines, and
they certainly are a very beautiful class, par¬
ticularly the Mexican and Californian species,
with the hybrids and varieties that have sprung
from them. These annual Lupines are a very
puzzling class as regard their names and dis¬
tinctive characters. There are upwards of a
dozen sorts grown by seed growers, all of which
are beautiful, but many do not differ materially
from others. The following are a few of the
best that would answer all purposes. These in¬
clude L. nanus, subcarnosus, luteus, and
hybridus and its varieties. The two first are
real gems among annuals, both being very dwarf
and spreading, and bearing a profusion of the
richest blue flowers. They are certainly two of
the finest annuals grown, and the smallest selec¬
tion should not omit them. L. nanus
is under 1 foot high, and is from Cali¬
fornia ; and L. subcarnosus is from
1 foot to 2 feet high, and comes from
Texas, so that both are only half hardy,
and require to be sown in heat in
March in order to grow them as they
should be. The Texan species is apt to
die off in heavy soils, but thrives per¬
fectly on light warm ones. L. hybridus
is one of the best of all the taller grow¬
ing kinds. It reaches 3 feet in height,
and bears its flowers in long dense
spikes, and varies considerably in
colour. There are three named varieties
of it, viz., atro-coccineus, rosy red in
the lower part of the spike, white in the
upper; insignis, dark reddish purple,
later than the other sorts ; and nigres-
cens, purple and white. These hybrid
varieties are hardier than the pre¬
ceding, and may be sown out-of-doors.

Another pretty species is the old
yellow Lupine (L. luteus), the only
annual species with yellow flowers;
hence a valuable one. It grows from
1 foot to li feet high, and its dense
spikes of bloom are bright yellow and
deliciously scented. It is a South
European plant, and quite as hardy as
the last.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK,
Glasshouses.

Greenhouse Palms. — Where a large or
medium-sized cool conservatory exists there are
no better plants for permanent use than cool
kinds of Palms, such as the Kentias, Chamierops,
and Coryphas ; the first-named of the above in

g articular are especially deserving of notice. K.

elmoreana and K. australis are handsome in
all their stages of growth either in a small
state or when more fully developed, their beauti¬
fully curved leaves being at all times effective. At
no time are they more useful than through the
late autumn and winter, when, associated with
Chrysanthemums, Camellias, and such other
flowering plants as may be in bloom, they pro¬
duce a beautiful effect which few other forms are
capable of. Cordylinc australis, Dasylirions,

Grubs and weeds. — During
autumn, when much garden ground is
necessarily lying idle, every care should
be taken that it is not harbouring
insects, which it is sure to do if
weeds and the remains of the last
crop are allowed to cover it. Many in¬
sects, such as wire-worms, may be kept
alive by feeding on them until the
giound is recropped, when they are
sure to attack the new crop when it is
least in a condition to bear it. Now,
if the ground had been properly cleared,
the insects in it must have starved
or moved to other quarters; in either
case the new crop would not be injured
by them. It is a common practice in
trenching ground to dig in all weeds,

&c. This, no doubt, is useful if they
are buried so deep that they are sure to
die ; but some weeds have a wonderful
amount of vitality, and if carelessly
dug in, suffer little, and may still
support insect life. It is safer to pull them
up and burn them. When digging, a sharp
look-out should be kept for chrysalides and
grubs, many of which will be killed, however,
if the trenching be properly done, as they may
mostly be found within a few inches of the
surface, and if buried at the bottom of a trench
will be killed. There is no better method of
preventing an attack by the grubs of the
Gooseberry sawfly than removing the earth
from under the bushes to a depth of 3 inches
and replacing it with fresh soil, as the chry¬
salides of these grubs are found in the ground
under the bushes.—G. S. S.

Plantain and weeds on lawns.—1 have
effectually cured a lawn, very bad indeed, of
coarse weeds, dandelion, and docks. Get a little
common sulphuric acid, and with a sharp pointed
stick or an iron skewer, put a drop in the
centre of each plant, and it will kill it. After¬
wards dress the lawn with' bfcne dust or jnlanq.—
D. McL. D i gitized by \ j 0 ^ IE

Blue Lupine (Lupin us polyphyllus).

variegated Yuccas, and Aralias, which are now
often employed for standing out-of-doors on
terraces, or for grouping amongst other things
that give a tropical effect during the summer
season, and for conservatory use in winter,
should be taken in before cold nights come on,
for although these things are not particularly
tender, still they are better out of the reach of
frost, and they can usually be grouped amongst
flowering and other plants in the conservatory
at this season.

Bouvardias.— The present treatment of these
will require to be regulated by the time the
flowers are required. So manageable are they
that little difficulty is experienced in getting
them into bloom whenever wanted. As a matter of
course, the strongest plants, such as grown from
cut-back stools which bloomed last year, will be
the furthest advanced in growth and in the best
condition for blooming first; they will bear as
much heat as most things, and, where the plants
are really strong, will furnish through the

winter greater quantities of flowers in succession
whensubmitted to a brisk heat than when treated
to an intermediate temperature. Plants like
these, in common with others that make some
growth through the winter, will be benefited by
the application of manure water at short inter¬
vals ; not only will it assist the development of
the first flowers, but also those which come later
upon the after growth.

A portion of the stock of Poinsettias,
Plumbagos, and Eranthemums will now need
removal to the forcing pit where a structure of
this description is at command, and where not
available room must be made in a warm green¬
house, as a moderate heat is necessary to bring
them in at the time required, as also to enable
such plants as the Poinsettias to attain the full
size which in many places is required. Although
they will bloom with less heat than is usually
present in a general stove, still they are never
so fine under the cooler treatment. See that the
whole stock of all these plants is perfectly free
from insect pests of all kinds, for, with plants
like these, that it is necessary to keep in warm
quarters, insects, if present, increase apace ;
they also interfere with the flowering, and entail
no end of labour to keep them down. In addi¬
tion to the above, a portion of any others grown
to flower during the winter should likewise bo

E laced under the conditions of heat that will
ring them on.

Climbers. —Any of the roof climbers that
were shortened back after flowering may now
receive further reduction to admit more light to
the permanent plants beneath them. This will
assist in preparing them for the annual pruning
by-and-bye ; and, as there is now no fear of them
starting into active growth if they are not treated
too freely at the root, the present pruning may
with safety be somewhat severe. These remarks
apply principally to climbers that flower on
the young grow ths made next season. Stephano-
tises and others that produce their finest
flowers on one-year-old wood should only have
the weakest growths removed at present, and
the plants should be kept dry at the roots,
and the remaining growths must be kept close to
the light to get them thoroughly matured.

Gardenias.— The summer ripened Gardenias
should now be fast making up their flower-buds,
and should be gradually brought under warmer
treatment. Any renewed growths must be re¬
moved with the finger and thumb, otherwise
they will draw the strength of the plants from
forming their flowers, and the latter will drop in
consequence.

Camellias. —One of the most annoying things
in a greenhouse during winter is the dropping
of Camellia buds ; to prevent this it will bo
necessary to see that these plants are kept regu¬
larly supplied with moisture at the roots, and
that they are not submitted for any lengthened
period to a dry atmosphere. A little clear soot
water should be given them at every alternate
watering, and care should be taken at this season
of the year that these and all other plants in¬
doors are watered with tepid water only. It
often happens, unless the house is well aired,
that plants that have stood outside during the
Bummer commence to make fresh growth after
being a short time under glass. Where this
occurs, they should be placed in a good position
in the house, but growth should be checked as
much as possible.

Hard-wooded plants. —It will now be neces¬
sary to use more than ordinary caution in giving
water to the roots of choice hard-wooded plants,
as nothing is easier than injuring roots with
excessive moisture at this season. Avoid the
too common practice of surface-dressing valuablo
plants at the commencement of winter, as the
surfacing material generally remains moist when
the ball of earth beneath is dry. The pots
should be kept perfectly free from conferva, as
this when allowed to remain long on the pots,
renders the atmosphere of the house unhealthy,
and tends to sour the soil round the roots of the
plants.

The latest batches of bulbs should now be
potted, including Ixios, Sparaxis, and tfce
spring-flowering Tritonias. These latter should
now be plunged in ashes of Cocoanut fibre close
to the glass in a cold frame, there to remain
through the winter, watering them carefully
until tne plants are in active growth, and venti¬
lating; very™fresly whenever the thermometer
stands above the freezing pomt.

U R BA NA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 11 , 1884 .

Flower Garden.

Herbaceous borders. — Pyrethrum uligi-
nosum, many varieties of Asters, the Japanese
Anemones, and Geums are still flowering most
profusely, as aro also Stocks, Sweet Peas, and
several other kinds of late-sown annuals, the
whole rendering the mixed borders at present
the centre of interest as regards the flower
garden. The placing of neat stakes to the tall
growers, and an occasional removal of decaying
flowers and leaves, is needed ; also the filling in
of any vacant spots by dividing plants that have
done flowering, or else planting in their stead
bulbs or annuals for spring flowering. Respect¬
ing the division and increase of plants of this
class, a word of caution may be of service, and
that is, that preference be given to growing
good varieties in duplicate rather than a large
collection in the shape of single plants—a prac¬
tice which must necessarily include some worth¬
less kinds. This unfortunately is an error into
which many fall, and hence the application by
some of the term “weediness” to this class of
plants generally.

Hardy fernery and rockery. —Till the
leaves are all off the trees, it will be impossible
to be as neat as might be wished ; but the re¬
moval of weeds and dead fronds will help con¬
siderably in this direction. Now is the time to
plant in the bare and most conspicuous spots
amongst the Ferns spring-flowering bulbs, the
most appropriate kinds being Snowdrops, wild
Hyacinths, and Daffodils, all of which flower
before the new fronds make much growth, as
also do Primroses, Cowslips, and the wild wood
Anemones ; by means of these simple flowers
charming effects can be produced without the
least interference with or detriment to the
Ferns. Keep the rockery free from weeds ; only
those who know plants well should be trusted
to weed here, otherwise plants may be pulled
up instead of weeds. Most kinds may now be
propagated readily by division, and the slips at
once planted in the places intended for them;
a bit of light vegetable soil will aid the rooting
process, and they must be guarded from slugs
by sooting or dusting them over with dry wood
ashes, and from being pulled up by birds by
pressing them firmly into the soil. A good
edging plant for walks in the rockery garden is
Sedum glaucum, planted edging tile fashion—
that is, on a slightly raised and rounded ledge,
and about 4 inches in width. It is hardly
necessary to add that the walks in such a garden
should not be of any set design, pattern, or
width, but in and out, narrow or wide, as best
suits the size of the structure.

Bedding plants. —Tender kinds intended to
be saved should now be lifted ; all the tricolor
Pelargoniums, the choicer succulents, and some
few Abutilons are the only plants that at pre¬
sent we shall lift for potting, but the tender
kinds that are over, ana of which stock pots of
cuttings have been put in, are gradually giving
place to other plants for winter effect. As
regards sub-tropicals, the more valuable should
be housed at once ; the annual section may, of
course, be left till frost destroys them. Cannas,
too, may be left till after the first severe frost,
as it does not injure the roots.

Chrysanthemums in pots must also be pro¬
tected in good time. If not all under cover, be
sure to have all in readiness to house them at
the first indication of frost or snow. Glass is,
of course, much the best covering for these, and
if there is any means of applying a little heat,
or rather warmth, so much the better, for, in
spite of all that is said to the contrary, a little
gentle warmth, just to dry up damp, disperse
mildew, or assist the blooms to open, is, when
judiciously applied, a great assistance. Still,
with a good, warm, sunny aspect, very good
results may be obtained without any artificial
heat whatever. If, however, there are more
plants than can be accommodated under glass,
a much simpler method may be resorted to. A
framework of strong laths erected against a
south wall, protected round the sides by a few
boards or old sacks, or some felt, &c., and a
covering or roof of glass, such as unused frame-
lteht?, if possible, or even of calico stretched on
a fight framework, which can be removed when
necessary, will afford accommodation for a good
number of plants, and enable them to expand
their blooms well, unless in an exceptionally
severe season. Of ^course, the covering should
be removed wholljf or partif ily gf IriSMays, so
as to give tko 'plArfer the! fechVntage of

the full light and fresh air. We have
seen very nice Chrysanthemums grown planted
at the foot of a south or west wall, to
which the shoots were somewhat loosely nailed,
as one would treat a climber ; then, when cold
weather set in, some pieces of canvas or calico
were nailed to the wall just above the top of the
plants, with a stick or roller tacked along the
bottom. The canvas or blind was let down over
the plants on cold nights, and rolled up and
fastened by a piece of string in fine weather.
The plants in pots should still be fed with liquid
manure, or a solution of sulphate of ammonia,
half an ounce to the gallon of water. But, of
course, they will not now require watering nearly
so frequently as a month ago, and the strength
of the manure, of whatever kind, should also be
reduced gradually as the days grow shorter and
the sun becomes less powerful. Keep a sharp
look out now for earwigs, which do great damage
to the newly-formed buds by eating them away
in places.

Bules.— Now is a good time to get a good batch
of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, Crocus, &c.,
potted. After potting, be sure to have a good
hard bottom to stand the pots on, through which
worms cannot penetrate. Cover up the pots well
wdth ashes or Cocoa-nut fibre, ana have a piece
of some waterproof substance ready to throw
over the whole when it rains.

Zonal Pelargoniums that have been prepared
for winter flowering should be placed on a light
warm shelf as near the glass as possible ; water
them more liberally ; afford a genial temperature
and free ventilation ; do not stop or pinch the
buds any more, and they will shortly be a blaze
of beauty. Primulas for early blooming need
somewhat similar treatment, but not quite so
much warmth, to do well. If pot-bound a little
manure will greatly help them.

The beautiful Lilium auratum and L. speci-
03um (lancifolium) are now going rapidly to rest;
give them no more water now, and when well
ripened the bulbs must be repotted into fresh
material.

General work. —See that nothing has been
forgotten to be propagated, and house all that
would be injured by frost. Cuttings of varie¬
gated Thyme, Gnaphalium lanatum, Violas, and
Calceolarias should at once be put in ; cold pits
do best for all these, also for the half-hardy
varieties of Echcverias, Kleinias, and Semper-
vivums. Mow the lawn, and cut Grass verges
and edgings or walks the last time for the season,
and keep down worm casts by frequent rolling
with a wooden roller. Leaf sweeping, rolling,
and weeding of walks must also now have a
large share of attention.

Fruit.

Fruit gathering will soon be at an end, and
the fruit room will require careful management
till all the fruit has undergone the “sweating”
process, which invariably takes place during the
first week or two after storing. Keep the ven¬
tilators open night and day (unless the weather
is excessively wet), and as soon as the fruit
seems dry, and has got thoroughly inured to
the temperature of the room, then ventilate only
for about a couple of hours every fine day, and
close up during wet, fog, and frost. The fruit
should be stored as thinly as space will allow,
both to insure its better keeping and to permit
its being examined for the purpose of removing
any that have begun to decay. Any specimens
that it is desired to keep for exhibition or other
special purposes should, when thoroughly dry,
be wrapped up separately in tissue paper, and
placed in drawers or boxes, with the view of
excluding atmospheric influences as much as
possible. The weather is now most favourable
for planting, root-pruning, and top-dressing.

Vegetables.

Cucumbers. —If any of the pits usually de¬
voted to the growth of winter or spring fruit
are still occupied with Melons, lose no time in
getting the latter removed, as Melons after this
late period are of little value, and the loss of a
fortnight in getting weak Cucumbers started
often affects them until after the turn of the
year. Having so often directed attention to the
importance of cleanliness, it is hardly again
necessary to remind the young beginner that a
pure atmosphere cannot be maintained where it
is neglected, and without this and an abundance
of light, also secured by keeping the glass clean,
it is useless to expect good fruit from Christmas

up to the end of March. If the pot system is
adopted let the pots be well drained, and fill
them quite up to the level of the rim with light,
rich, turfy loam and leaf-mould. Turn the
plants out before they get pot-bound, otherwise
they will have spider before they lose their seed
leaves. Give plenty of moisture, but avoid
scalding steam, and maintain a bottom-heat of
S5degs. to 90 degs. until they get well established,
when 80 degs. will suffice for the winter. Where
winter culture is not thoroughly understood the
planting out system should be adopted, pro¬
vided a good bottom-heat can be maintained in
the chamber beneath the soil, and the plants are
not so closely crowded together as is often the
case whero pots are used. Under either system
their food, be it solid or liquid, must always be
supplied at a temperature equal to that of the
house. Insect enemies of all kinds must have
no quarter, and mildew must be prevented from
entering by good culture and light cropping,
in an efficiently heated and perfectly ventilated
house.

Endive.— Tie up Endive for blanching as it
is required, but no more should be done at a time
than will keep up a supply, as when sufficiently
blanched it soon afterwards begins to decay.
If boards be used for blanching the curled-leaved
kinds, they will be much less likely either to rot
through the effects of wet, or to suffer from frost,
but whichever way they are treated the tying
up or covering must be done when they art
quite dry. Any ordinary thin boards sufficiently
wide to cover the plants will answer the purpose,
placing a couple or more bricks upon them,
according to their length, to keep them close
enough to the plants to exclude light and prevent
their removal by wind.

As ground is cleared it should be dug over
for the winter. In doing this be guided by the
nature of the soil ; where both surface and sub¬
soil are naturally open and porous it may be laid
up in narrow ridges. Treated thus it gets mel¬
lowed by the action of frost; but in heavy re¬
tentive soils the rains are thrown off the ridges
into the hollows, which become saturated, and
in the spring, when the ground is required for
cropping, it is not in proper condition for the
reception of seeds. In such a soil it is better
not to ridge but to dig it over, keeping it level,
but at the same time turning it up roughly and
leaving it as open as possible without attempt¬
ing to break the clods. All ground that is used
for vegetable crops should be trenched every
three or four years, 2 inches of fresh earth being
brought to the surface on each occasion. This
more particularly applies to old gardens, where
if it be not done the surface becomes exhausted.

It is necessary thus to discriminate between
old and new gardens, as, in the latter, at a com¬
paratively small depth the soil is yet raw. To
bring any considerable quantity of this to the
top, and to bury the surface soil that has by
stirring and exposure to sun and air, become
better adapted for the requirements of plant
life, would be a serious mistake, which would
be injurious to the crops for a year or two after¬
wards, With such land as this, that is yet
deficient in depth of good soil, it is better not
to bring much of the under portion to the top,
but in trenching loosen about G inches of the
bottom that has not previously been stirred.
In this way it will gradually be mellowed, in
which condition it may by degrees be brought up
and mixed with the top soil.

In trenching ground of every description, it
is well to put some manure 'to the bottom ; its
admixture with the soil beneath very much im¬
proves the latter, and here it answers as a store
for the support of the roots during dry, parch¬
ing, summer weather. This operation of digging
and trenching in the autumn is of great impor¬
tance to vegetable culture, and never should bo
delayed after the ground is cleared longer than
can be avoided, as it can be carried out with
more ease and expedition before the land is
soaked by the autumnal rains. In addition to
the effects it has in pulverising the soil, it is the
means of destroying quantities of slugs and
wire worms and their eggs, and also weeds that
have newly vegetated.

Thistles.—Possibly some of your readers are unaware
of the value of Thistles for other stock than donkeys.
When ground in a mill and mixed with meal or bran they
were lately found to be highly nutritous food for calves.
This troublesome weed when burned yields 7) 11). potash
per ton of Thistles, the ashes thus procured being valu¬
able |w|nure.—:Ewj*r, |-|£ V f- [\|

Oct. 11, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

377

FRUIT.

STRAWBERRY CULTURE FOR
MARKET.

Strawberry growing for market is extending
at a rapid rate in South Hampshire; indeed, for
some miles round Botley and Fareham Stations
the Strawberry has well-nigh supplanted other
crops. Large farms on which only a few years
ago Com and root crops were grown are now
converted into Strawberry gardens, and extensive
tracts of waste common land on which Furze or
Brambles, for which Hampshire is noted, only
grew, have been broken up, enclosed with
hedges or fences, and produce crops of luscious
fruit. The quantity sent by rail from Botley
Station in one season has been 569 tons 11 cwt.,
that from Fareham Station 246 tons 12 cwt.,
making a total from these two stations alone of
81G tons 3 cwt. ! Strawberries are also culti¬
vated near other stations in this locality in
smaller quantities, and very large quantities are
disposed of locally to shopkeepers and to
hawkers, who during the Strawberry season
have their barrows loaded with fine fruit in
every street in south coast towns, the prices
being so low in London that it did not pay to
send it there. Very fine fruit could be purchased
here at ninepence per gallon. It was computed
by those well versed in such matters that over
1,000 tons were grown w*ithin a few miles radius
of Botley Station. The earliest gatherings from
this locality usually realise high prices, as, the
soil being naturally light and warm, the crops
mature early, especially where the land slopes
well to the south. These are sent to London in
punnets ; in fact, in seasons in which the crop is
light, the majority of the finest fruit is sent up
in this manner. But this year the price for
Strawberries in punnets was high only for a very
short time; they then averaged 2s. 6d. per
gallon, but as soon as the crop came in from
later localities the price dropped to Is. per
gallon, and for some time even lower than that.
Growers do not look on such an unusually fine
crop as we had this year as an unmixed good,
as the profits do not equal those secured on an
average crop with prices ranging higher, the
expenses of gathering, marketing, &c., leaving
but little balance in the hands of the grower.

The cultivation of such extensive tracts
afford employment for large numbers of
labourers, for there is always something to do
in a Strawberry garden. Before planting can
bo done with advantage the land must be
thoroughly cleaned and deeply cultivated. A
good depth of light friable soil, into which the
roots can strike down freely, is the best anti¬
dote against drought; and although land here¬
abouts is very stony and naturally poor, it is
surprising how healthy and vigorous the plants
keep and what crops they bear. Strawberries
on stiff soil could not produce better results than
do these tracts of well-nigh barren Heath land.
A gravelly subsoil suits the Strawberry well.
The soil about here is what may be termed a
sandy loam, with, in some cases, a great deal
of stone mixed with it; but in nearly all there
is a large proportion of sand. The routine of
culture may be briefly described as follows,
viz. :—

Preparation or the soil. —This is usually
effected by trenching two spits deep, but in most
of the land utilised for Strawberries there is not
sufficient depth of mould to allow of the bottom
spit being brought to the top ; it is usually too
stony ; it is therefore merely broken up, and
the top spit placed over it; on a large scale it is
deeply ploughed several times. All Couch
Grass, Docks, and other deep-rooting weeds are
picked out by hand and burnt, for if the soil
contains any living pieces of these noxious weeds
it is impossible to eradicate them after the
Strawberries are planted without greatly
damaging the crop.

Plantino is usually done in autumn, August,
September, and October being the best months.
If frost, however, keeps off many are planted
later, and during February and March great
quantities are planted, and really good crops of
tine fruit are gathered the first season provided
the plants are strong.* The usual mode of
planting is by means of large dibbers; good
large holes are made, and Jthe^roots are put well
down, so that they reacltf the Jint * ojhaLthe
bottom ; the plants are th\s_tftm} bupfedJ,Shc
crown jnst protruding through the wil? The

rows are usually from 2 feet to 2J feet apart,
but for some of the large-leaved kinds as much as
3 feet is given, large leaves and large fruit usually
going together.

Manuring is, as a rule, not done heavily
before planting ; it is put on as a winter dress¬
ing after the plants get established, and lightly
forked in between the rows, but care is taken
never to loosen the soil around the crowns of
the plants. I may add that one of the greatest
objections to burying manure under the plants
is that it encourages worms, and the land being
infested with moles, they are sure to upheave
the soil when searching after them. Unless the
land is very poor, the young plants usually grow
quite strongly enough the first season, but after
they have borne a crop of fruit, a top-dressing
to encourage the surface feeding roots is of
great service ; stable or farmyard manure is that
mostly employed. As soon as the spring sun¬
shine begins to exert its influence, and the
weeds begin to grow, hoeing is commenced and
carried on vigorously on all favourable occasions,
keeping the land scrupulously clean being of the
highest importance. Where the soil is loosened
near the crowns of the plants in cleaning the
beds it is again trodden as firmly as possible,
and this is repeated whenever it is necessary to
disturb the soil, and in April the beds are
mulched. The mulching performs a double
service ; it not only’ keeps weeds down and
minimises evaporation, but also keeps the fruit
clean. Where it is possible to procure it, stable
litter or the bedding of horses is unquestionably
the best mulching material; it contains valuable
nutriment that, when washed down to the roots
by spring showers, greatly invigorates the plants
when sending up their flower-spikes. But as
sufficient quantities cannot be procured by many
growers, clean Oat or Barley straw is substituted,
and the best of it is again collected after the
crop is gathered and built up like a rick to keep
it dry and serviceable for a second year. It
costs about £3 per ton.

Gathering the crop is performed by men,
women, and children ; in the height of the season
all hands procurable are pressed into the service.
The earliest and finest fruit' is packed, as I have
said, in punnets, the picking being done at so
much per dozen punnets; the latter are then
packed in large boxes or hampers and sent off by
rail to salesmen. In some seasons very remu¬
nerative prices are realised ; a crop of from 3 tons
to 5 tons per acre when prices are high gives a
large profit to the growers, nearly £100 per acre
being realised in this way in some years. But
when the crop is over the average it does not
pay to send any but the earliest fruit to London,
as the long railway journey swallows up too
much of the profits. This year from one far¬
thing to a halfpenny per punnet was all that
many growers cleared for punnets of very fine
fruit, and from this, rent, rates, labour, &c.,
have to be deducted. When prices are low
punnets are put aside, and the fruit is
gathered and sold by measure or weight for pre¬
serving.

The varieties growm by market gardeners
are not numerous, Sir Joseph Paxton being more
largely grown than all other sorts put together.
Its fruit is very fine, large, and highly coloured,
and the plants have a strong constitution, and
soon come into a bearing state. The fruit, too,
is firm, and stands a good deal of rough usage.
If one speaks to market growers about the
superiority of flavour of the British Queen race
of Strawberries, the reply is that they are useless
for their purpose. Marguerite is a very fine
Strawberry, and is grown in considerable quan¬
tities, and some of the late fruiting kinds are
largely grown, notably Eleanor, the Kimberley,
and Elton Pine, but, like all other fruits, market
cultivators find selections answer their purpose
better than collections.

After gathering the crop, all runners not
required for future plantations are cut clean off
and the soil hoed between the rows, but the old
foliage is retained as far as possible. The length
of time during which Straw’berry beds remain
remunerative depends a good deal on the nature
of the soil. If good strong plants are put out
early in the season, or during August and Sep¬
tember, a crop of fine fruit is usually secured the
first season after planting ; in the second season
there will probably be a very heavy crop, and if
well looked after the third and fourth year good
crop« may be secured. As soon, however, as
tl m to fail the plants are ploughed up or

dug in, and the land is cropped with somo
other garden or field crop for a time, so as to
give it a rest, and again prepare it for Straw¬
berries. J. H.

APPLE ENEMIES.

The worst insect enemy to the attacks of
which the Apple is liable is what is termed the

American blight, a cottony looking sub¬
stance which occupies every crevice of the bark,
and when once fairly established difficult to eradi¬
cate. Perseverance in scrubbing the stems with
hard brushes will, however, check its progress,
and soapsuds applied with force by a powerful
garden engine will extirpate it. I have also
found Gishurst Compound to be effectual in
destroying this pest. When the trees are
dormant it may be applied strong enough to kill
any kind of insect, say S oz. to the gallon,
without injury to the tree. As this blight goes
under ground, and attacks the roots as well as
the tops, it will be advisable in extreme cases
to uncover the latter as far as they seem affected,
and remove the soil entirely to some open field.
After a thorough cleansing substitute fresh soil,
which will have the effect of giving the trees
a fresh start. Paraffin oil is one of the cheapest
and most effective insecticides we have, and if
the stems and affected branches are washed
with a strong mixture of this and water, but
little blight will be seen the following year.

Green and black fly are sometimes trouble¬
some in the case of young trees, especially in
nurseries, where in whole • quarters the leaves
may be seen coated on the under-sides with fly,
and if not destroyed they greatly check growth.
Dipping the affected parts in Tobacco water,
Gishurst Compound, and other liquids, or
deluging them with these by means of the
garden engine, are the remedies usually em¬
ployed. Dusting the leaves when damp with
snuff or Tobacco powder will also greatly check
their progress, as will likewise keeping the
surface soil stirred, and as much as possible
promoting vigorous growth.

Mussel scale sometimes gets established on
the bark. When that happens brushing with
a very hard brush will greatly reduce its
numbers, and painting the stems with clay, soft
soap, and a strong dose of paraffin or Gishurst
Compound will, by following it up for two or
three seasons, quite clear the tree, and the wood
will assume a healthy, shining appearance, a
certain precursor of health and fertility.

Caterpillars and weevils. —These are
usually worse in orchards in which the ground
is dug than in those carpeted with Grass. The
immediate destruction of grub-eaten Apples
that fall on the ground is doubtless one means
of reducing some kinds, and in all cases where
the trees are much affected it will be well to
break the surface soil up in frosty weather ;
birds will then search diligently for them in the
freshly broken soil. In the growing season
only hand-picking is of much avail, and that is
a tedious operation. Scraping and cleaning the
stems and painting them with various insecti¬
cides, although only aimed at the destruction
of one of these pests, will indirectly help to free
them from all of them. A somewhat primitive
mode of clearing the trees of these pests and
manuring them at the same time is practised in
Kent, viz., folding pigs under them in pens
made of iron hurdles, that are moved every
few days. The pigs, having no rings in their
noses, turn up the soil in quantities equal to
ploughing. Pigs will also clear the land of all
kinds of roots, such as those of Docks and other
noxious weeds, and the crops of clean fruit borne
on trees thus treated is the best argument in
favour of its efficiency. G.

Transplanting large Peach trees.—
No fruit-bearing tree submits so readily to
sudden removal as the Peach. No matter how
large the tree may be, if it is in fair health and
the work is done carefully, the crop noed not bo
sacrificed. One of the lessons which the future
will teach us, I think, is this : We shall, so*
far as regards our wall trees at any rate, come
to look upon them as portable objects, and not
as fixtures. When once planted an occasional
shift from one position to another tends to keep
the roots in the right position, and to counter¬
act that natural tendency which all things that
are not looked after and cared for have to go astray.
Very few people plant trees enough. There

378

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 11, 1884.

should always be a few young trees in training
to fill in wherever wanted. Maidens may be
purchased at a very low rate, and by taking
them young the cultivator may make them
assume any form he likes. In the planting of
Peach houses, what an immense gain it is to have
large-sized trees to fill them with, and so obtain
a crop of fruit at once ; there should be no wait¬
ing in this case. 1 remember once moving a
tree from the open wall to a house, to meet an
emergency, when the blossoms were expanding
and the tree set a fair crop ; but then the
Peach bears so many blossoms in proportion
to our real requirements, that there is no fear
of losing the crop if the tree is in good condi¬
tion ana is well cared for afterwards to counter¬
act the effect of the evaporation which is going
on, and by shading and moisture to supply its
wants till the roots set to work again, which
they will do almost immediately, especially if
a nice mellow turf be used. It is wonderful
how fond the roots of fruit trees are of this
material.—H.

Sudden death of large branches of
Apricots. —Old and young trees, all are liable
to this disease. A tree may be apparently
healthy, and all at once, without any cause so
far as we can see, a large limb, perhaps all one
side the tree, may die and have to be cut away;
but the most marvellous thing about it is, no
sooner is the mischief done than the trees set
about repairing the damage, and in most cases
the Bpaco will soon be filled up again with new
healthy growth. The only way I can account
for it is the tree receives some severe shock. It
may be drought, or something equivalent to a
sunstroke in the human family ; it may arise
from carrying too heavy a load, overtaxing its
power, or anything else that puts a severe
strain upon the forces of the tree’s life, so as to
cause a weakening or a paralysis of its powers.
I never remember to have seen this take place
with trees cultivated under glass, and if it did
I should expect it to arise from the same causes.
Apricots are generally very thrifty when planted
out in a cool house with just the smallest pos¬
sible amount of artificial heat to make the
blossoms safe on cold, frosty nights in spring,
and abundant supplies of fresh air at ail favour¬
able seasons. The only suggestion I can offer
likely to have any preventive influence in the
case of branch dying is to plant in sound
healthy loam without manure. Do not crop the
borders, and be content, when the trees are
young, with a moderate annual growth. Very
rapid growth in youth generally involves some
sacrifice in after years. The presence of lime in
some form is necessary to the health of stone
fruits. It moderates, hardens, and strengthens
their growth, and dressings of lime or chalk
should be given when necessary, scattering it
over the surface of the border in spring and
lightly forking it in.—H.

The Apple crop. —Messrs. J. W. Draper
and Son, Covent Garden, have kindly furnished
us with the following particulars respecting the
present appearance of the Apple crop in Europe
and America : United Kingdom. —Crop much
below the average. France. —An average yield
of early kinds, especially in the Gironde ; late
and better descriptions somewhat short. (?cr-
many. —Short crop generally. Belgium. —Short
crop. Holland. —Very light crop. Spain and
Portugal .—Crop short, description common.
America. —There are indications that the crop
will not equal in bulk that of 1880, yet the
yield in some of the best producing localities is
likely to be very abundant, and far superior in
quality to the past two seasons. After mature
consideration of the various reports there is little
doubt that the crop of Europe is considerably
under that of many years ; thus it will be from
America that the supply for the United
Kingdom will be derived. The prospect of ship¬
ments being advantageously made to England
were never more promising, particularly for
better and later description of Apples.

w 12187.—Apple tree not bearing!— It is
probably growing too vigorously. The best
thing to do would be to check the growth by
root-pruning it. This is done by digging round
the tree about the end of October or in
November. It will be necessary to cut the
thick roots that go deeply into the ground, and
to encourage the s;ur|»c©F roots to keep as near
the top as possible. jfThisu nwy o^rjilnaged by
placing some rotten raaifhW^rounaidhrorce on

the surface of the ground. Some good loam may
be worked in amongst the surface roots, but no
manure.—J. D. E.

12052.— Storing Apples.— Better to store
them in single layers, not to touch each other,
on lattice-work shelves. If absolutely neces¬
sary, on the score of room, place a thin layer of
perfectly dry sweet straw between the layers of
Apples. Keep them in the dark, dry, and
secure from frost. Cupboards in your “attic”
would be the best of the three places you name.
See that the fruit is sound and ripe, and has
been placed in an airy place to get quite dry
before storing.—J. P.

12040.—Grapes cracking. —Some varieties
are more liable to be injured by cracking than
others, but it is not often that there is any com¬
plaint about the Black Hamburgh. If they
crack as soon as they begin to swell, it might be
caused by rust on the skin, or, perhaps, mildew
on it. When the skin is clean it would be almost
impossible to treat the house so that the berries
cracked badly at such an early stage of their

S owth. It is just as unusual for the Black
amburgh not to fruit when it makes good
strong, healthy wood. Cut out the old wood
from the base, and train up young canes 2 feet
6 inches apart at the least; they will then bear
fruit. Query 12059 deals with Madresfield
Court Grape cracking. This variety has an
inveterate tendency to do so ; but it may be
partially, if not wholly prevented, by keeping
the roots rather dry, the atmosphere of the
house also dry and well ventilated, and also
allowing the laterals to grow without being
stopped when the fruit is nearly ripe.—J. D. E.

12086.— Topping 1 Raspberry canes.— As soon as
the leaves drop on the long canes should be cut back to
within 4 feet or 44 feet from the surface of the ground.—
J. D. E.

12059.—Madresfield Court Grape cracking.—
This Grape docs beat with plenty of heat and a somewhat
dry atmosphere. I had a good deal of trouble with crack¬
ing of berries until a nurseryman gave me this hint. Give
plenty of air, do not quite close the ventilators even at
night, and to obviate the lowering of temperature that
would otherwise take place, keep a small fire always going,
except, of course, during very hot weather.—K., Southend.

HOUSE & WINDOW GARDENING.

PLANTS IN ROOMS.

Although plants can now in nearly all parts
be purchased at very low rates, it is always a
satisfaction to the indoor gardener to know that
the plant which he or she, as the case may be,
admires and cares for was raised at home from
a slip or a seed. But as the best modes of pro¬
pagating plants would involve too much space
in this article, I must refer such as need instruc¬
tion on the raising of plants from slips or seeds
to works on such subjects, whether they, how¬
ever, have been raised at home or purchased, it
is all important that they be in vigorous health
to start with, or success is not likely to ensue,
for once a plant gets unhealthy it is a loss of
labour to attempt to get it again in health.
It is better to throw it away and start again with
healthy slips, seeds, or plants. If the young
plants have not been raised at home by slips or
seeds, it is always better to purchase young
healthy plants than large ones that have been
forced into flower, although we well know that,
with the majority of plant cultivators, this ad¬
vice will be thrown away, as five people out of
six buy only plants in flower; it is really far
better for the purchaser to be guided by cata¬
logue descriptions than to buy plants that have
been forced into flower in a high temperature.

Supposing, then, that a plant purchased from
the florist has been growing in a pot 3 inches
deep and wide, it is usually in a condition to
require a larger pot, which will be known by
observing that the roots mat the outside of the
ball of earth ; such a plant, whether it is a Rose,
Pelargonium, Fuchsia, or any other similar free-
growing plant, will require a pot 1 inch or 2
inches wider than that in which it has been
grown. It is usually the safest plan to shift it
into only one size larger, but if a pot two sizes
larger is used, then at least 1 inch of drainage
should be placed in the bottom, so that the water
can pass freely from the greater mass of soil.
This drainage may consist of charcoal, broken
pots, oyster sheite, or ^anything convenient
suitable for the purpose. If the plant has been

only placed in a pot 1 inch larger than that in
which it has been growing, then there is no need
for drainage. We ourselves never use drainage
in our flower-pots, unless for some reason we
are obliged to give them an extra large pot, when
the drainage is used to counteract the evil effects
of using a too large pot. The indication that a
plant needs repotting is known by knocking it
out of the pot (by giving a smart rap on the edge
of a board, just as is done in taking a form of
jelly out of a mould) ; if the roots have become
matted on the outer surface of the ball of earth,
then it is in a condition to require a larger sized
pot.

For soil, that recommended for window boxes
will answer equally well for plants in pots.
We are often asked if saucers should be used to
set pots in. As a matter of keeping the place
clean where the plants stand, they are a neces¬
sity, but the saucer should never be filled with
water, unless when sub-aquatic plants are

f rown, such as Agapanthus, Callas, Hyacinths,
'radescantias, or plants of a similar character.
The best temperature for room plants is about
55 degs. at night, which may be increased to
10 degs. or 15 degs. during the day. The best
aspect for plants in rooms is east or south-east,
south or south-west; never north. It is neces¬
sary once in eight or ten days to turn the plants
so that each gets a share of light, else the plants
will get lop-sided. If plants drop their leaves,
or the leaves become yellow, it is usually from
one of two causes—either that the soil is too wet
or too dry ; either condition will destroy the
small rootlets, a circumstance indicated by the
condition of the leaves. There is usually more
injury done from the plants being too wet than
too dry.

Insects.— There are only three kinds of insects
that are really troublesome to plants in rooms—
the aphis (or green fly), the red spider, and mealy
bug. The first is easily destroyed by Tobacco in
any form, either as liquid, dust, or by smoke.
The most convenient way to use it for house
plants is to first wet the leaves, then dust snuff
or Tobacco dust over them. Red spider is not
quite so easy to manage ; it never appears unless
the air is hot and dry, when it attacks the lower
sides of the leaves. The best remedy is washing
the leaves with a sponge, or, if the plants are
very large, laying the plants on their sides and
striking the leaves forcibly with water from a
syringe. Mealy bug looks like little bits of
cotton, and is usually found at the axils of the
leaves. It is best removed by a strong hair
pencil, after which syringe or sponge the plant.
All these instructions refer to plants that are
grown in rooms from October until May. After
that date, if circumstances permit, they should
be shifted into good-sized pots, and placed in the
open garden, sinking the pot in the earth to the
rim, care being taken to pinch out the leading
shoots, so as to secure a good shape. If the pots
are sunk in the ground, care must be taken to
have them turned round every two or three
weeks, else the roots will get through the hole in
the bottom, and when lifted would have to be
broken off, which would seriously injure them.
Perhaps the best way is to stop up the hole
entirely, so that the roots cannot get through.
A cork is best for this purpose, as it must be taken
out if the plants are again used as house plants.
Many plants, such as Pelargoniums, Heliotropes,
Abutilons, all the Coleuses, Ageratums, and
similar strong-growing plants, usually get too
large for house plants the second year, and it
is better with all such to use young slips, or
procure young plants of them in the autumn ;
while such plants as Carnations, Roses, Azaleas,
Camellias, Jessamines, &c., are better when older
if they have been properly cared for.

Foliage for table decoration.— Trades-
cantias, such as zebrina, take root in water, and
have lived with me for weeks, forming a foliage
for whatever flowers I may have. 1 change the
water, and occasionally I submerge the foliage
in a large basin. After discovering this I tried
sprays of Coleus ; they also rooted, and I have
a dozen or more ornaments filled with this com¬
bination. If the Coleus is brilliant no flowers
are required. I break .off the shoots of Tra-
descantias the length required for each orna¬
ment. There are several kinds that grow under
the plants in a conservatory. Perhaps if tliis
interests any of your readers, more beautiful
specimens might be named. ^E. E.

Oct. 11, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

319

&

TREES AND SHRUBS.

5 _

A NEW ORNAMENTAL SHRUB.

(Cladrastis a mures sis )

a The accompanying illustration represents a
flowering spray of Cladrastis amurensis, a com¬
paratively recent addition to the list of orna¬
mental trees or shrubs which are perfectly hardy
in the climate of Great Britain. Although,
perhaps, mostly by reason of its rarity, I have no
knowledge of the behaviour of the tree in this

uncertain character of our springs. In Amoor-
land, after spring has fairly set in, night frosts
are of unfrequent occurrence. The above
reasons account for the fact that a highly orna¬
mental deciduous tree from that botanical region,
a species of Lime (Tilia mandschurica), cannot
claim to be truly hardy with us, its habit of
starting into growth before wintry weather has
definitely ceased thus exposing its young tender
shoots to constant injury, the cold springs
proving infinitely more destructive to it than
the coldest winters. Cladrastis amurensis, in

strike root readily. Half-ripened wood is best
for the purpose ; if too young and tender the
shoots flag and rot away without forming roots,
and if old and hard-barked, they keep alive for
a time and look like growing, but the majority
fail to emit roots, and perish as soon as spring
sunshine exerts its influence on them. Dwarf
bushy young shrubs are so useful at this season
for filling window boxes, vases, beds, and
borders, that one can scarcely be overdone with
them, and when too large for this purpose they
come in well for making fresh shrubberies or

PLOWER BRANCH OP CLADRASTIS AMURENSIS.

(DRAWN IN TllE ROYAL GARDENS, KE\V.)

intry elsewhere than at Kew, where it has
a cultivated for several years, I have little
i of its proving hardy throughout the

Isles, except under very unfavourable
Iitions. In its native country, Amoorland,
climate which obtains is widely different
n the climate of Britain. The intense
the winters there, however (upwards
clegs, below the zero of Fahren-
-thermometer having been recorded), is
p^zxaated by the warmth of the sumfners
the well-marked sudlen tiaijp'.th 4sV»f tfre
:> rue—conditioi whicffw very manjfy cakes
fees ixnfa^ to life than the

common with several other recently introduced
trees and shrubs of the first rank from an “ orna¬
mental point of view,” does not share in the fault
of Tilia mandschurica j at any rate it has
never been injured at Kew. Cladrastis amu-
rensis freely produces its racemes of white-flowers
(even in a young state) in July and August; it
is certainly worthy of extended cultivation.

G. N.

Evergreens.— From now till the end of
November is the best time of the whole year to
put in cuttings of Evergreens. Insert them in
a partially-shad ;d position where they will

filling up existing ones. The only way to keep
them satisfactory is to always have a good
supply of young plants to fill up gaps and
failures.—J. H.

The Euonymus as a wall plant.— Few
plants are better adapted for covering walls
than the several kinds of Euonymus. Their
foliage is bright and cheerful at all times of the
year, but especially in winter. In the shape of
a dwarf shrub, or as a plant for a window box
or pot, we are all familiar with the Euonymus,
but as a wall plant it is not nearly so common
as it deserve s tc be. Some of the trailmg varie*
ties, such i.s E. radicals vnriegatus, root on

380

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 11, 1884.

walls, and cling to them almost as tenaciously
as Ivy. On old rough stone walls beautiful
winter effects can lie produced by planting
Kuonymusos, Cotoncasters, Pyracanthas, and
other borry-bcaring climbers.—J. G.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(OoTitinued from page 369J

The Apricot under Glass.

Tiie Moor Park is the best variety for planting
in a house, and they may be trained to a trellis,
after the manner of Peaches. I do not recom¬
mend the use of galvanized wire for the trellises,
for there is a degree of uncertainty about its
action which would prevent its use with me for
training choice fruits, or especially one so liable
to gum as is the Apricot. The Apricot house
may be from 18 to 20 feet wide. If a lean-to,
the front trellis may stop 3 feet from the back
wall, and should be circular in outline, so as to
let as much light as possible fall upon the back
wall. In a span-roofed house trees will be
planted on each side, 14 feet apart. The border
should be partly inside and partly out, and be
composed of good loam, without manure, as
the necessary support can be given when the
trees bear freely. The border need not be more
than 10 feet wide, as it is more economical to
lift the roots and remake the border when the
trees need such assistance than to make the
border too large at first. Two feet will be deep
enough, and the drainage must be perfect. If
the trees are planted in sound loam without
manure there will be no gross or plethoric wood,
and very little, if any, shortening will be
required, and the less pruning the better, for I
am persuaded that a great many of the ills from
which Apricots suffer arc due to errors of
pruning. If the disbudding and the summer
pruning are rightly understood, and properly
carried out, there should be but little pruning
to be done in winter, and that little should be left
till the blossom buds are getting prominent, as
they indicate the part where the knife can be
introduced. The autumn, as soon as the leaves
fall, is the best time to plant, and I should re¬
commend maiden trees only to be employed (I
may say, to satisfy the uninitiated, that a
maiden tree is a tree which has had only one
season’s growth from the bud, and has not been
cut back). In dealing with young trees, instead
of permitting the shoots of the graft or bud to
rush away, as is commonly done, it would be
better to pinch the leaders when 15 to 18 inches
of wood had been made, to strengthen the base
and render cutting back unnecessary. In their
early stages the treatment accorded to Peaches
will Buit Apricots, the only difference being
Apricots are more impatient under artificial
heat. But when rightly managed, especially as
regards ventilation, Apricots under glass bear
immense crops of fruit, and will pay better for
glass coverings than many things which are more
favoured, and the fruit grown under glass is of
superior quality, and is easily protected from
the attacks of wasps and flies. It often happens
Apricots in the open air are, many of them,
quite spoiled by wasps or earwigs; but in a
house we have only to cover the ventilators
with hexagon netting to keep them quite safe.
I am not recommending their culture under
glass exclusively, as there will always be warm
Bites planted with Apricots in the open air ; but
I know, taking an average of ten years, that a
moderate sized house, planted with Apricot
trees, will produce as many fruits as a good
length of wall. This is a question for owners of
gardens, more than gardeners; but I cannot
imagine any gardener who would not be glad
of an Apricot house if he had any choice in the
matter.

Varieties.

I have already said the Moor Park is the best
Variety for culture under glass, but several
varieties having the Moor Park origin may be
planted with it to lengthen out the season. Of
these Powell’s Late, D’Alsace, and Beauge are
the best. I should also add the Peaoh Apricot
to the above short list.

The Plum House.

Of late years PlumWn the open cA r have been
an exceedingly u»certiiii| et» {^Tand/^this fact
may induce many,\avSn^mean]^to adopt their
culturo under glass. A «omcwlmt similar struc¬

ture to the Apricot house will suit them admi¬
rably, and the same steady, regular treatment
which has been recommended for Apricots will
suit Plums. A span-roofed house is the best,
but a lean-to should not be despised, as it is
mainly a question of light and ventilation, and
any structure which supplies these essentials
will do. In the general management of both
the Apricot and Plum it is a good plan to lay in
as much young wood as space can be found for
without overcrowding. Though the Plum does
not force well, it will bear more heat than the
Apricot, but by planting early and late sorts
together a long succession may be had without
forcing. I have already referred to the culture
of Plums in pots in the orchard house, and I am
thinking now only of the planting of them in
the borders of the house, and training them on
trellises ; and so manageable are they in this re¬
spect that the trellis may assume any shape. They
dislike cold currents of air blowing through
them when in blossom or when the growth is
young in spring, but ventilation close to the
ground line will be very beneficial. The
choicer dessert Plums only should be planted
under glass, as these are the kinds which
more often fail in the open air. I need
not take up spaco by details of manage¬
ment, as the routine work is the same both
indoors and out. Insects must be kept down
by fumigating, and by giving timely attention
to the wants of the trees, and not bring on
exhaustion by overcropping, as generally under
glass the fruits set freely, and there is a great
temptation to overcrop; this, in fact, con¬
stitutes a real danger. The disbudding of the
young wood should be done early, as in the case
of the Peach, though, as the crop is borne on
spurs, the disbudding of Plums will be merely
thinning the shoots where too much crowded.
The pinching of the young shoots will begin
when four leaves have been made, taking the
shoots in rotation as they arrive at the right
stage. Though this necessitates watchfulness
and care for a longer period, it involves less
check to the trees. All laterals should be
pinched to one leaf. The fruit should be
thinned rather severely if fine Plums are wished
for, and as soon as the crop is thinned mulch
the border with old Mushroom manure or some¬
thing similar. The syringe must be used freely
every fine day, and during the growing season
the border must be kept in a moist condition ;
but discontinue both atmospheric and root
watering as soon as the Plums show signs of
ripening, throwing open all ventilators to their
full extent. The

Pruning, Training, and Cleaning
should be done as soon after the leaves fall a3
possible, but the borders must not be allowed to
get dust dry, not even in winter. It is im¬
portant in all fruit houses that the borders
receive thorough examination in winter as to
their condition, and all dry Bpots thoroughly
moistened before work begins in spring, as
neglect frequently leads to fruit dropping.
Varieties.

Green Gage, Transparent Gage, July Green
Gage, Purple Gage, Guthrie’s Late Green,
Golden Drop, Denniston’s Superb, Jeffreson,
Kirke’s, Heine Claude de Bavy, and Washington.

The Cherry House.

When the young wood of the Cherry has been
well ripened, which it always is under glass, a
crop of fruit may be relied on, under fairly good
management. The Cherry forces well if the
temperature be kept regular and steady, avoid¬
ing extremes of heat. The border where the
trees are planted out should be composed of
turfy loam, inclined to be sandy rather than
heavy. Autumn planting is best, as it gives
time for the trees to get their roots to work
before the spring comes, bringing with it the
excitement of light and warmth. Any kind of
house will do for Cherries, but except for early
forcing a span-roofed house is best, with a cir¬
cular trellis spanning a central path, planting
the trees on each side from 14 feet to 18 feet
apart. • The branches of the Cherry are so
flexible when young that they may be trained
in any way the cultivator may desire. The fan
shape answers well, and is understood by every¬
body. The horizontal in the eyes of some has
advantages, and the Palmetta is at least equal
to the horizontal. No manure should be used
in the construction of the border if the loam is
of good quality. Rich top-dressing and liquid

manure, when the trees need support, are far
better than planting in a rich soil, as the former
plan enables the cultivator to keep his trees well
in hand and under perfect control. The May
Duke is the best forcing Cherry, but others
should be planted to give a succession. I have
already pointed out the advantages of maiden
trees, and in such a border as I have described
the trees may have full swing, giving encourage¬
ment to the weakly parts of the tree in summer
by pinching a strong shoot, if needful, but doing
little knife pruning. In tying in young shoots
in summer bo careful to allow room enough for
the wood to grow, as the Cherry is a rapid
grower under favourable considerations, and
much mischief may be done by a tight ligature.

If the young trees have been w'ell selected, being
healthy ana strong, very little heading back
will be needed, only removing the soft un¬
ripened points. There is nothing gained by
overcrowding the branches. From 7 to 9 inches
is a good distance to train such kinds as the
May Duke. After the trees fill the trellis and
fairly settle down to work, they will go on for
years bearing full crops, and making but little
wood. With trees in this condition it is not
advisable to begin pinching too early, though,
before the fruit begins to ripen, all superfluous
growth should be removed. In forcing the
Cherry the start must be very steady, com¬
mencing about the first or second week in
February with a night temperature of 40 degs.,
allowing 10 degs. rise in the daytime, or more
if the sun Bhines. In the course of three or
four weeks the night temperature may advance
to 45 degs., and it should not much exceed this
till the fruit is set, when a further increase to
50 degs. may then take place. If at any time
by any chance a little extra fire is put on, or
from a change of wind or any other circum¬
stance the temperature should rise above 55 degs.
at the outside till the stoning period is passed,
ventilation should be resorted to immediately,
as one night of such neglect may cause the
failure of the crop ; therefore, a constant watch¬
fulness is needed, but those who give this care
find no difficulty.

The Ventilation

Is, in fact, the most important point in their
culture. A close, stuffy atmosphere is death
to the blossoms and the young fruit. After
the fruits are stoned they will bear pushing,
but not before. At all times, night and day,
unless during cold, windy, or frosty weather,
the Cherry house should never be altogether
closed, or without the means of obtaining a cir¬
culation ; but this circulation can and should
be obtained without creating a draught. An
opening or two along the ground line, where the
fresh air will pass through or over the hot-water
pipes, can easily be arranged without detriment
to anything. The application of moisture, both
over the branches with the syringe or engine,
and also at the roots, is a necessity of all culture
under glass, and the chill should be taken oflf all
water used in forcing houses, and all water
used for syringing must be soft and free from
impurities.

Insects.

As soon as the blossoms and green leaves ap¬
pear the green fly will probably appear also, and
must be dealt with by fumigation. The black
aphis comes later on, and is more difficult to
destroy ; but dusting with Tobacco powder, and
one or two fumigations, usually clears them off.

If the red spider appears in large numbers, it
may be taken for granted that some mistake has
been made in the interior of the house, generally
by keeping the borders and the atmosphere too
dry, with, perhaps, deficient ventilation. Strong,
robust foliage, such as are growing on trees well
cared for, are not often attacked ; or, if they
are, the syringe soon makes short work of the
spiders.

Cherries in Pots

May be grown where no special house is set
apart for Cherries, and they force readily enough
when not hurried. They will do in the orchard
house, or in any house where there is plenty of
light and the temperature is kept low, and the
atmospheric condition right. A firm root runi
is essential to all stone fruits, and very often
when difficulties crop up about the Btoning time]
it may ; unless some other more likely cause bJ
present, be owing to a deficiency of lime in thJ
soil. We have no doubt, at this moment, mat::|
trees are suffering from this fruit falling pr l

Oct. 11,1884,]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

S8i

a

maturely. Stone cracking, and other similar
5 ailments, are generally produced by a deficiency
t of lime.

•r Varieties.

May Dube is the best for forcing. Early
Purple (lean, Belle de Orleans, Governor Wood,
Werder’s Early Black, Archduke, Royal Duke,
k and Late Duke. E. HoiiDAY.

i -

INDOOR PLANTS.

A FEW CLIMBERS FOR A WARM
GREENHOUSE.

Bougainvillea gla BRA stands unequalled as a
roof-plant, or even if kept within the bounds of a
pillar, but the temperature should not in the
winter fall below 46 degs. or, if it can be kept
to that, 50 degs. This plant will repay the
grower better than any other with which I am
acquainted; it is a vigorous grower, and should
have a fair amount of root room ; the points of
every shoot it makes will become clothed for a
foot or more in length with ita lovely mauve-
coloured bracts, continuing to open uninter¬
ruptedly a succession of flowers for months
during the summer and autumn ; it will grow in
either peat or loam, but requires liberal feeding
with manure water.

Abutilon Due de Malakoff is a strong
growing plant, well adapted for a similar tem¬
perature, its distinct bell-sbaped flowers con¬
trasting well with anything else. The beautiful
white variety, Boule de Neige, is also a most
desirable plant for a pillar, flowering at almost
every leaf it forms, and, if a temperature of
50 degs. is maintained in the night through the
winter, it will bloom almost continuously.

Habrothamnus eleoanslb a native of Mexico,
and is another useful free-flowering plant, pro¬
ducing its purple flowers in terminal bunches,
at the extremity of almost every shoot nearly
all the year round, and if kept a little warm
through the winter will continue blooming ; it
succeeds best in loam.

Clerodendron Balfourii is one of the freest
growing and equally free flowering plants we
possess, little subject to the attacks of insects,
but will do the best grown in a large pot and
kept at the warmest end of the house ; it does
not like a lower temperature than 48 degs. or
50 degs., and in the winter it should have water
withheld so as to induce the leaves to ripen and
fall off, receiving only a little at long intervals,
until it shows siras of the buds swelling in the
spring, when the ball should be soaked by
steeping it for several hours in a vessel full of
tepid water, until it is thoroughly moistened,
whan it will grow and flower from every joint,
after which it may be, as far as desirable, re¬
duced with a knife.

Stephanotis floribundaIs a universal favour¬
ite and will succeed well with similar treat¬
ment as far a3 being grown in a pot goes, but
it will not require so much root room as the
Clerodendron ; neither should it have its roots
interfered with much, for when it once gets
large enough to occupy a pot 15 or 18 inches in
diameter it will not require to be moved for
several years, further than seeing that the
drainage is right; give it manure water once a
veek during tne growing season. The reason for
lot turning this plant out into the open border
n a situation where the temperature is not
epfc higher than above indicated during the
rinter ia, that if the roots were placed in a large
ody of soil there would be a difficulty in keep-
i g it dry enough to preserve them, especially
in soil partially occupied by other plants
hich would not bear this dry treatment ; this
ant, in such a situation, only requires a little
ater through the winter when the leaves show
gns'of shrivelling.

Jasminum Duciiesse d’Orleans. —A double
hit© variety, very large and full; is a plant
dl worth a place here, but should also be
3 \vn in a pot, in sandy loam ; its fragrant
wers are most useful for cutting.

Lcculia oratissima.—T his old but beautiful
e flowering plant is one of the finest to occupy
oraer of the intermediate house or on a back
.11 ; it well deserves a place, producing, as it
ss, for a considerable time, its large bunches
sweet-scented pink-coloured flowers. J. S.

Belladonna Liliea jfn pots - Mi IfirSt
[uaintance with this Biotab some

rty-five years ago. It was thea^ and

probably still is, planted in borders hundreds
of feet in length in front of the plant and fruit
houses, and it never failed to produce thousands
of flower-spikes every year. On these Lilies
no culture was bestowed, nor could it be, as
some of the borders were not more than a foot
or 15 inches wide, and literally crammed with
bulbs, which were never disturbed, beyond the
surfaoe soil being slightly loosened each year,
when their matured foliage was removed.
About fifteen years ago I planted in the
gardens here some Belladonnas in borders
similar to those referred to at Bicton, and I have
never had, nor do I expect to have, a bloom
from them, our northern climate not being
suitable for them. After several years’ disap¬
pointment, I resorted to pot culture, which has
been a great success and far exceeded my expec¬
tations both as to the quantity of flowers which
they every year produce, and as to the value of
the blooms when cut. In the conservatory, too,
they look well associated with the usual con¬
servatory autumn-flowering plants. When
grown in a conservatory the flowers are ex¬
quisitely delicate in colour, and their fragrance
is more appreciated than that of any other plant
at present in bloom. My mode of culture is
simple, and does not entail much labour. The
bulbs which I used were imported ones with
flower-spikes 2 inches or 3 inches long. Such
bulbs should be avoided if possible, the best
results being obtained when both root and flower
start together. The pots were 4-inch, 5-inch,
and 6-inch ones, according to the size of the
bulbs. The soil was fibry loam. They were
kept in a cold pit until winter and severe
spring frosts are over ; then they were plunged
in ashes fully exposed to the Bun. In autumn,
when the foliage is quite matured, it should be
removed and the pots drawn out of the ashes
and laid on their sides on the ashes as before.
This operation, viz., laying the pots on their
sides, I find to be most important, as it properly
matures the bulbs, and gives them a period of
absolute rest. In September they should be
removed to a dry, warm pit or house and given
no water until the flower-spikes are 2 inches
long. Then, with a little more water and a more
humid atmosphere, they grow and strengthen
rapidly. One great advantage is they do not,
under pot culture, show flowers all at the same
time. I have a third of my bulbs with their
flower-spikes only a few inches long, so that I
get a succession of blooms extending over two
months. I could not say how often they should
be potted. Those I have were potted three
years, and I have not had them so strong as this
year ; some of the bulbs bear two spikes, and
some of the spikes have eight flowers on them.
I am of opinion that the less Lily roots of any
kind are disturbed the better. They should
never be shaken out except for reasons unavoid¬
able.—R. W., Darlington.

The Zanzibar Balsam (ImpatiensSultani).
—This is one of the brightest and more flori-
ferous plants that can be grown ; indeed, it is
rarely, if ever, out of bloom, and as it is so easy
to cultivate, and may be so readily propagated
and increased, it is likely to become very
popular for the embellishment of greenhouses
and indoor window boxes during summer, and
for warm greenhouses or rooms in winter.
Where quantities are required the best way is
to sow seeds in spring, which the plants bear
freely, and which, if sown on the surface of
finely-sifted soil in a pan or pot, and placed in
moist heat after being covered with a sheet of
glass, soon come up. When the seedlings are
large enough to handle they may at once be
pricked off, after which they should be kept
close for a few days to give them a start, when
it will be necessary to place them near the
glass in order to keep them dwarf and bushy.
If propagated from cuttings they may be taken
off almost at any time, but being of a some¬
what suoculent character, they must not be kept
in very moist heat or they will quickly damp
and rot off. If placed on a shady shelf they
root in a few days and soon make fresh growth.
Like the ordinary Balsam, Impatiens Sultani is
fond of rich light soil, and, as the plants also
require plenty of water, sand should bo added
to keep it open and porous. W’ith good feed-
ing by giving liberal supplies of liquid manure
it is not requisite to use larger than 6-inch
pots to produce fine specimens, and plants of
this Impatiens flower all the more freely by
being a little pinched at the roots,—S. D.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

REMARKS ON THE FORMATION OF
VEGETABLE GARDENS.

In selecting a site for a new kitchen garden,
convenience sometimes prevails over all other
considerations, and thus a bad situation is some¬
times chosen and a really good one rejected.
Gently sloping ground is most suitable for a
kitchen garden, inasmuch as it can be more
conveniently drained than when it is on a level,
and moreover it can be more fully exposed to
the direct rays of the sun, and the ground con¬
sequently kept drier and warmer—*.<?., if the
inclination be in a proper direction. In no case
should the ground slope towards the north or
north-east, or be directly exposed to the cold
winds which we usually get from that quarter
in early spring, a time when all kitchen garden
crops most need warmth. A south-east or
south-west aspect is not objectionable, but due
south is perhaps preferable to all others. Steep
slopes are, as a rule, objectionable, inasmuch
as during heavy rains the soil becomes washed
into the walks, the drains get filled up, and
thus cause endless trouble and annoyance.
Especially is this the case after continuous
drought, when the ground has in consequence
become almost impervious to rain; the dry
surface-soil is washed away from the roots of
the plants, which are consequently left bare,
and instead of the plants being benefited by the
rain they are left in a worse condition than they
were before it fell, inasmuch as their roots,
being near the surface, are more directly exposed
to the fierce rays of the sun, and soon become
injured in consequence. It is therefore obvious
that if the ground slope at all it should only be
slightly. If, however, as sometimes happens,
the only site available for a kitchen garden bo
naturally level, it is advisable to allow it to
remain so, for a time at least, but it may by
degrees be brought to the desired slope when
such operations as digging or trenching are being
performed, by each time working the soil to
that end required to be the highest.

Where it happens that the ground slopes in a
direction contrary to the one required, it will
be necessary to bring in soil from another quarter,
unless there be sufficient depth of material to
permit the difficulty to be overcome by levelling.
A kitchen garden should always be so far re¬
moved from the residence as to avoid the possi¬
bility of offensive smells arising from decaying
vegetables being obnoxious to the inmates ; ana
it should as far as possible be situated so as
to admit of its being sheltered to some extent
from north and north-east winds, and also hidden
as far as possible from view from the residence
or ornamental grounds. This may generally be
effectively done by planting fast-growing ever¬
greens or forest trees, and sometimes the desired
shelter may be obtained by surrounding it with
high banks and mounds judiciously planted.
When selecting trees or shrubs for this purpose,
preference should be given to those kinds that
appear to thrive the most luxuriantly in the
immediate neighbourhood. The extent of ground
to be devoted wholly to vegetable culture must,
of course, depend upon the demand. Nothing
less than an acre will suffice for any residence
except perhaps a mere cottage. The number of
people to be supplied with vegetables in season
must be taken into consideration, and also the
climate and soil. Probably fourteen may subsist
on the produce of an acre where it is not expected
to furnish more than an early crop of Potatoes.
Another consideration is the means allowed
to work the garden — a question affecting
production quite as much as extent. It is much
better to manage one acre thoroughly than to
have two acres ill-managed. When it is in¬
tended to enclose the ground by walls, it should
be remembered that it costs less, proportionally,
to wall in two or three acres than one acre, and,
at the same time, there is an extended wall
surface for fruit trees. If the ground be not
all required for vegetable crops, it can be
employed in other ways. As to plan, the
simpler it is the better. A parallelogram run¬
ning east and west in such a way that the
greatest extent of wall surface and borders may
have a south aspect, is the usual and most ap¬
proved form. If walls be employed they should
not be less than 12 it. irr. height.' The mirth
wall might be made considerably higher than
this with advantage - perhaps, 16" it. or IS ft.—
the east west walls descending by ramps

382

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 11, 1884.

from each corner towards the south. This
would not only increase the sheltering power of
the walls, but would afford more room for train¬
ing fruit trees upon them, a 12 -foot wall being
too low for many kinds of fan-trained trees.

When the area enclosed does not exceed more
than three or four acres, an intersecting or
middle wall is not to be recommended, as it
necessitates a further sub-division of the ground
and more walks, where these are thought neces¬
sary, and reduces the cropping space ; but in a
six or eight-acre garden suen a wall is beneficial
for the shelter it affords from cold winds, the
boundary walls under such circumstances exert¬
ing hardly any influence in the central portions
of the garden, over which the blast sweeps as
over an open field. Within the walls the ground
need only be divided into four quarters by well-
made intersecting walks communicating with
side-walks, which should run entirely round the
square, leaving a 12-foot or 14-feet border
between them and the wall. It has, happily,
come into practice of late years to separate the
vegetable and fruit gardens entirely from each
other, and where this can be conveniently done
a decided advantage is gained to both classes of
produce. The tillage of the soil required for
vegetable and fruit crops is of a widely different
character, for whilst the vegetables are benefited
by constant digging, trenching, and manuring of
the soil, the fruit trees are often injured by
such operations. It is almost, in short, impos¬
sible to cultivate a vegetable garden properly
where fruit trees exist without injury to their
roots. Manure constantly applied near their
roots is often productive of evil results. It is
said by many to produce canker ; one thing,
however, is certain, that it has a tendency to
promote rank growth, which most people are
agreed is inimical to fruit bearing, unless
in the case of old, worn-out trees or where
the soil is poor and stony. Where the vege¬
table garden is separate from the fruit depart¬
ment, walls are seldom used, nor aro they
necessary, for if sloping banks bo thrown up all
round and planted with a hedge, they answer
admirably for early vegetables, and that side
upon which the suu has no power can be used
during summer for shadc-loviug subjects, such
as Cresses, salads, &c., or it will answer for
many crops that are required to be retarded.
Indeed, whatever aspect may be required for
each individual subject when banks are used,
they can be accommodated. S.

Autumn Peas. —November is the proper
month in which to sow autumn Peas, and all
seed should be got into the ground as soon as
possible after the first day of the month.
Under favourable circumstances seed sown then
will produce plants which will bear pods some
weeks sooner in the spring than any which can
be put in after the new year. Autumn-sown
Peas will bear a great deal of frost and snow
without being injured, but wind is very much
against them, and it is that which must be
guarded against as much as possible. Only a
sheltered spot should be selected for sowing in,
and the soil cannot be too deeply dug or well
manured. William I. is still a good Pea to sow
in winter, and the rows should never be closer
together than the height to which the stems
grow. If the kind sown attains a height of 6 feet,

§ ut the rows in that distance apart, and the
warf ones, which onlv grow 1 foot or 18 inches
high, may, as a rule, be grown as close as that
together.

Storing Parsnips. —Lifting and storing
Parsnips is decidedly labour in vain, for
Parsnips keep better in the ground than in any
other way. Moreover, the roots continue to
grow very late in the season ; therefore to lift
them before growth is complete is to reduce the
weight of the crop. That the Parsnip continues
to grow until nearly mid-winter I am certain
from the difference in size and weight between
early and late-lifted roots. Some seem to think
that exposing the roots to frost is beneficial, but
that is a mistake.—J. G. H.

Mushrooms in sheds. —These are a great
success, and the more experience we gain of this
mode of culture the better do we like it. Beds
made up in the early part of October in flower¬
pot bins in the potting shed alwaysvield abun¬
dance of M uslirooraft. The beds measure about

4 feet square, and sp >,c< 1

200 Mushrooms of various siz

ge counted
long asoold

draughts can be shut out from them they do
admirably. In calling on a neighbour the other
day I was pleased to find a fine crop of Mush¬
rooms on a bed in a cowshed ; these and other
instances go to prove that Mushrooms may be
grown wherever horse droppings and the shelter
of a shed can be had.

12042.—Vegetable Marrow3 turning yellow
—Grow them in good rich soil, and use the pollen of the
one flower to dust the stigmatic portion of the other. The
growths should also be stopped a joint or two beyond the
fruit.—J. D. E.

ROSES.

Beds and borders of Roses indoors.
—For a succession crop this mode of growth
gives the least trouble, and is often very
remunerative, but it has not the advantages
and portability of pot culture, and for a first
early crop is not so certain—with this serious
drawback, if the crop fails the season is lost,
and the house-room lost for a year. If it is de¬
termined to try a first early crop in beds, the
house should have a southerly exposure, as for
pot culture ; the border should be constructed
independently of the main earth, with a space
intervening as much as may be thought well,
and if a row of hot-water pipes is placed
beneath the bed, so much the better. This
Bhould be so arranged as to be able to enclose
the whole tightly, and when the time comes to
start the Hoses.into growth, in autumn, shut off |
the heat from the rest of the house, and excite *
root-action first, following the same treatment
as regards syringing, stimulating, and keeping
clean as for pot culture. Use one-year-old
plants that have not been forced, planted on
March 1, 2 feet apart each way, with the object
of removing every other as soon os they crowd,
or after the first year’s flowering, stopping and
tying for the first season as required. The
advantage of an independant bed will be easily
understood when the period of resting comes,
as we then have entire control of the root-
action. A bed 15 in. to 20 in. is deep enough,
draining well and using soil as given before, with
a good sprinkling of $-in. bones in addition.
Mulch May 1 with good mellow manure, either
cow manure or good stable manure, and mulch
again after the middle of November. En¬
courage all growth after the crop is over, and
preserve it entire—that is, do not shorten the
canes, and instead of cutting them short at the
annual pruning, cut out all the old wood of the
previous year’s growth, and select from three to
five canes to bend down for bearing a second
crop of blooms. By so doing more flowers can
be had. Any one who has grown Raspberries
will understand what is meant by the bending
method. For second early and late forcing,
houses with ends due north and south are
generally thought to be the best. The Roses
may be planted out in beds that have immediate
contact with the earth, but I prefer to have
them isolated and under control. With any
method ensure good drainage. Fixed roofs or
portable roofs—which are the best? I am in¬
clined to think, with movable shading, fixed
roofs are the best, with abundant ventilation
always. The idea of having to freeze Roses to
make them flower is a fallacy. Plenty of
sunshine and little water in the autumn, with
the natural decline of the temperature, accom¬
plishes more than excessive freezing in the way
of elaborating and maturing the plant for its
next season’s work.

12054—Roses for London garden.—

I fear “Banksia” will be disappointed if he
attempts to grow Roses in his garden. I have
made many trials with them in London suburban
gardens, and have always ended in failure.
Although Primrose Hill is fairly free from
smoke, it is not sufficiently so to enable a plant
so impatient of atmospheric impurities as
the Rose to flourish. The plants will probably
give some good flowers the first season, but after
that they will be sure to deteriorate and
gradually succumb to their adverse conditions.
The best for the wall would be Gloire de Dijon.
—K., Southend.

120S0 — Rose Celine Forest!er.- Perhaps your
Ro.se is in rather too moist a situation. Try it against a
wall. A rather dry soil suite this best.—J. T. G. B.

12010 .—Treatment of Roses.—I had the same sort
of Roses, and the roots were os you describe ; we put them
into 6-inch pots after plucking the old leaves off, new ones
have come, and the Isabella Sprunt (which was the most

ickly-looking) is in bud. They are in a cool greenhouse
and making wood fast. You had better cut them down to
tiie second spur and treat them as I have described, and 1
think you will succeed in rearing them.— Ncbia.

12049.— Mildew in open air.—If Roses are not badly
inferted with this parasite, dusting them with flowers of
sulphur alKJut twice will destroy it. Tnc flowers of sulphur
are made more effective if they are dissolved in soft, soapy
water, and the plants are well syringed with the solution.—

J. D. E.

12061.—Perpetual R 0363 .— The seeds sown in
August will germinate next spring—some of them. Others
will lie in the ground for twelve months. It i9 no use
putting them in bottom heat. It is better to place the
pots containing the seeds in a cold frame or greenhouse.—

J. D. E.

12073.—Rose Victor Verdier.— There is a Rose
called Climbing Victor Verdier, similar in colour and type
to Victor Verdier, and it would answor your purpo-w
very well. General Jacqueminot would also suit you, as it
is a vigorous grower and blooms early against a wall.—

J. T. G. B. _

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(miscellaneous. )

11945.—Fowls’ manure.— Referring to
“ Acton ” and “ Nelson,” fowls’ manure is very
rich, and is best used in a liquid form. I have
this year grown some splendid Zinnias and
Asters, giving it to them onoe a week. Chry¬
santhemums, too, do well on it, and will take
it rather stronger than other flowers. A
gardener of my acquaintance used to water his
permanent and pot vines with it, and beat all
his competitors both as to flavour and size of
berry.— Chemicus.

12018.— Green fly. —These very troublesome
insects are easily destroyed. I close all venti¬
lators of greenhouse, get a small shovel, take in
a few live coals from a grate (these must not be
too bright burning), place this on floor of the
greenhouse, put upon the coals sufficient
Tobacco paper to well fill the house with smoke.
The operation does not take five minutes. The
Tobacco paper must smoulder, not blaze ; it
costs here about 9d. per pound. If plants very
badly affected repeat dose for three nights. I
have just done this. Some of my Pelargoniums
were smothered in green fly ; all are now gone.

—Novice, Bristol.

12039.— Worms on lawns.— Worms in
pots, or on lawns, are easily got rid of by using
any of the following plans:—Add a pound of
quicklime to each gallon of water, stir well,
and, when settled, water with the clear liquid.
This will bring the worms to the surface, when
they can be picked up and destroyed. Grains,
or soot, used in the same manner as the fore¬
going (lime-water) are equally effective. Salt.—
Applied at the rate of eight bushels to the acre,
salt is efficacious in destroying worms. An
equal quantity of soot mixed with the salt
makes a good dressing. Both should be applied
in wet weather. Lime-water is, however,
cheaper in the end.—(From “ Garden Pesta and
their Eradication.”)— Celer et Andax.

12015.— Destroying Woodlice. —“ Cook
Parsnips or Beetroot in a solution of arsenic and
place in the haunts of the woodlice (they will
eat greedily and soon all be killed), or till some
10 -inch pots with half dry horse droppings and
lay where the insects congregate. Once a week
turn the droppings into the fire and put fresh
into pots. If this is persisted in a riddance will
soon be made ; or, into some small pots put
cold boiled Potatoes and cover with Moss.
Examine night and morning and transfer the
woodlice to a bucket of hot water. The Potatoes
will last for some time, and the traps are about
the best for the purpose. Whenever toads and
tomtits can be induced to stay in the houses or
robins build nests, woodlice soon become scarce,
and, therefore, both toads and robins should be
encouraged, for if taken early enough, woodlice
never become very injurious. They can be
poisoned like cockroaches, or trapped like ear¬
wigs. A bucket of hot water is in most cases
necessary to put them in when the traps are
emptied.”—“Garden Pests and their Eradica¬
tion.”— Celer et And ax.

12074.—Bindweed. —Now, or as soon as possible, 1 b a j
good time to clear this weed ; you must fork the ground I
carefully and pick up the smallest particles of the root an il
burn them, or else they will strike root again. It wilif
grow after remaining exposed to intense frost or scorchin
sun.—J. T. G. B.

- The best way to destroy this troublesome wet d U tl

cut it over as fast as it appears above ground with ttT
~ itch hoe. If it is not allowed to make any top growth j

[(LLI NO 15 AT

I20ji7,- Drying Everlasting’Flowers. — Cut i
flowers j i-A oefoiw they iuc entirely open Take oil r

M

Oct. 11, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

383

of tho Imivcs. Put three or four flowers together, and
tyincr string round the end of the stalks, suspend them
head downward until perfectly dry and stiff.— Toosb.

C Prince*— Nothing uncommon. The Arum Lily often

throws up abortive flowers.-C. A .—We know of no such

book.-Gardener.—Your best way would be to advertise

in our columns. Write to the publisher on the subject.

- Enquirer .—The Stephanotis does fruit in this country,

but it is not quite a common occurrence.- Richanl

Portland .—The blooms sent were very handsome and of
>;ood form. We do not think, however, it would be ad¬
visable to name them, as you will raiso others equally
food or better next year, and too many names only confuse

people.- Lesvick .—We believe it was published by Bem-

rwo <kSon, Old Bailey, London, E.C.- G. H. P. —From

the specimen sent it would be impossible for us to form

auy opinion as to tho cause of the stalk witherinjr.-

It. T. IP.—From any good nursery where trees and shrubs
are grown.

Names of plants.— N. N .— Solidago canadensis. -

Gardener .—Gcsnera tubiflora (white); Helenium autum-

nale (yellow); Begonia weltononsis.- Somerset.— 1, Feli-

cito Perpetual ; 2. Appears to be Aimee Vibert.- J. B .—

Yellow flower is Sedum Aizoon ; neither of the two Fcms

is in a tit condition for rearing.- E. G.— Double-headed

Bahlii (not uncommon).- W. F. —1, Abelia rupestris ;

2, Begonia ricinifolia ; 3, B. hydrocotylifolia ; 4, B. argy-

rospila.- Gwenith .—Inula Oculis Chrieti (Stag’s Horn

Fern) ; JPlatyceriura alcicorno.- Iris. —1, Erigeron ina-

cranthum ; 2, Rudbeckia speciosa; 3 and 4. Insufllcient to
name accurately.- W. Shirley.— Curious ; not un¬
common.- Z. A. P. —1, Iledychium Gardneriana ; 2,

Schizostvlis cocciuea ; 4, Scolopeiidriuin vulgare cristatum ;

6, Platyloma rotundifolium.- P. H .—Your plant is a

species of Mescmbryanthemum, and is not hardy.-

Earner .—Phlox Dnimmondi.- Erin —l, Sedum Tele-

phium ; 2, Sedum spurium ; 3, Sedum album ; the Ivy is a

form of the Irish Ivy, but not tho true one.- J. Scott

(Denbigh).—Euonymus Japonicus ; it does not bear fruit.

- B. A. H .—Sternbergia lutea.- Mrs. E. IF.—The

fruit of the plant sent is not edible ; its name is Physalis

Alkekengi.- W. Hamilton.—1, Species of Agrostis ; 2,

Uolcno mollis ; 3, Dactvlis glome rata.

Names Of fruit.— Pytchley.— 1, Court pendu Plat ;no
use till March or April, then very good ; 2, Stripod Holland
Pippin ; in use November to February ; a good cooking
Apple ; 3, White souring ; very common ; 4, Cannot name
from a single specimen. See notices to correspondents.

- A. C. H. 0 .—Not known ; probably a local variety.-

D. Buchanan .—King of the Pippins.- J. House. —1,

Golden Noble ; 2, Wellington ; 3, Ilawthomden : 4, King

of the Pippins.-Other senders of fruit will be answered

next week.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.— AU communications
for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
aide of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
aldress of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the payer. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper. Oioing to the necessity oj
Gardening yoinq to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, tt is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not
answered should be sent to us again

Naming plants or fruit.— Four plants, fruits, or
flowers omy can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens are sent. We do not undertake to
name varieties of florists? flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist wh(> has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
name sh ould always accompany the parcel Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should rciul several
sy-ccinuns of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12110. —Dahlias with bad centres.— Can anyone
tell me why Dahlias so often have bad centres? I have
a great many Dahlia 1 * in that way, and should like to know
how to prevent it.—M. D.

12117.— White fungus. —What will kill white

fungus ?—N AAM AN.

12118.— Planting trees.— Advico as to best time to
transplant deciduous trees and conifere of ten to fifteen
years' growth would oblige. Also best time to piune into
shape trees of same age.—E. W. C.

12119.— Moles in garden.— Can any reader inform
me of the best means of destroying or trapping moles,
which are making great havoc in my gaiden, and I fear
will reach the lawn ?—Amateur.

12120.— Apricot not bearing.— About four years
ago I got an early Montgamet Apricot from Rivers, and,
though it has grown well, and other Apricots planted at
the same time have flowered and fruited, thissort has done
neither, and shows no fruit buds. Before uprooting it I
a&k for information. Is it a known bad-bearing sort, and
not worth growing ? Ought it to be of a prickly character
like mine ? Can I have got a wild Apricot?—R. H. H.

12121.—R036 not blooming.—Will anyone kindly
tell me how' to treat aCheshunt Hybrid Rose to cause it to
flower ? It has grown rampantly on the back wall of my
lean-to house, this being its second year, and has been
twice cut back, but has not shown a bloom this year.
Shall I try it another season, or take it out and plant a
Sloire 7 There were a few blooms tho first year.—J. F.

12122 .—Lettuce for light soil.— Can any reader tell
nc what sort of Lettuce to grow in a dry light soil on a
on them slope? Hitherto, all kinds of Lettuce have run
ip immediately to seed, in spite of all tying up. Somo
dants of tho Giant Lettuce 47), given to iny gardener,
ns we red, but we have not been able to procure the seed ;
o one knows it by that name.-^BmyANNiA,

12123.—Preserving E vq
r hat is the Lest way of preserv 1
jeoration for the winter?—W.

12124.— Manure for fruit trees.—What is the best
manure to apply to fruit trees? I have been thinking of
tr\ ing dissolved hones, but do not feel quite sure as to their
being the best thing. I can get stable manure, but artifi¬
cial manure will be both easier auJ cheaper to get here.—
G. 0.

12125.— Oil stoves. —I should be glad if some reader
would kindly give me his experience of Gillingham's
radiating heat generator, also of Rippingille’s circulating
hot-water apparatus (large size, No. 180a), both as regards
efficiency ana cost of oil. I am anxious to get for my
conservatory a heating apparatus, giving the groatest
amout of heat for the oil consumed.— Bella.

12126 —Wintering plants in frames.— Like most
amateurs I have more plants in my greenhouso than it can
properly contain. I have a cold frame and must put some
of my plants in it for the wiuter. Will someone give me
advice as to what plants would best do in a frame f I com¬
mence tires in greenhouse in November. My plants consist
of Pelargoniums, Geraniums (various kinds), scented
Geraniums, Abutilons, Mcsembryanthemums, Lantanas,
Salvias, Fuchsias, Heliotropes, herbaceous and shrubby
Calceolarias, Lilies of various kinds, such as Arums
lancifoliums, Jersey Belladonna, &c.; Ferns (Pteris cretica
albo-lineata. Holly, Oak, Parsley, Osmunda regalia, Ilart’s-
tongue, &c., &c.), Acacias, Camellias, French Lavender,
Cacti, Begonias, Cyclamens, Carnations, Picotees, Bou-
vardia8. Cinerarias, Primulas, double Nasturtiums, Migno¬
nette, Lobelias, Hydrangeas, Pansies, Solanums, Chrjaan-
themums, Zinneaa, Spinca, Stocks, Ice Plants, Erica,
Auricula, Orange trees, Musk, Lycopodium, and Passion¬
flowers.— Penartii, near Cardiff.

12127—Destroying weeds on garden paths —
Will someone oblige by telling me of any preparation that
will destroy weeds on garden paths? The paths are formed
of inlaid stonework, a sort of mosaic pattern produced
with small pebbles of different colours, hence the weeds
cannot be rooted up without destroying the mosaic. I
believe there are chemicals in solution which destroy vege¬
tation without being hurtful to animal life, and as we have
poultry running about the place this latter quality, non-
poisonous to animal life, is important.—C. S. B.

1212S.— Azaleas and Imantophyllums —I have
two pots of hardy Azaleas(large flowered), and wish to know
how to treat them this winter. Should 1 put them in a cold
greenhouse, or leave them standing out-of-doors, or plunge
them ? My garden is damp and cold, as it gets no sun from
November to March. When should Inmntophyllum
miniatum be replanted ? I have had mine for two years,
but it has never flowered. It is in a 4J inch pot. What
temperature does it require in winter ?—J. D.

12129.—Fern case.—I intend trying to make a Fern
case to while away the long evenings of the coming winter.
I mean it to stand in a room where fire seldom is. I shall
bo obliged if any reader will furnish me with a simple plan
for making it, and the mode of procedure. If possible I
would like a self-acting fountain. Also what kind of wood
is best to use?— Alpha.

12130.—Berries for winter decoration.—I should
be much obliged if any reader of Gardening could tell me
how to preserve Hawthorn berries (hips and haws), and
tho berries of wild Rose trees, which are now so plentiful
in our hedges, for winter decoration. Would dipping them
in a solution of gum arabic keep them from shrivelling ?-
Lkttik.

12131.—Roses on seedling Briers.— Should Roses
budded on seodling Briers just underground below the
collar, in replanting have the origin of tho bud planted 3
inches or 4 inches below tho surface, as is usual when
budded on Mannetti stocks, or Just on the surface?—R. C.

12132.— Belladonna Lilies.— Will someone give mo
directions for flowering Guernsey and Belladonna Lilies?
I think the leafless flower stalks of first year very ugly,
but tho succeeding year's leaves come freely but no flowers.
How can I remedy this?—G.

12133.—Preserving Gynerium argenteum
Pampis Grass).—Will any correspondent kindly give tho
best mode of drying the plumes of this plant for keeping
in vases during the winter, as those I have previously saved
have dropped their silvtry plumage soon after being cut?
—A. C. E.

12134.—Nectarines splitting.—I think my question
under tho above heading has been misunderstood, as a
reply has been given in reference to stone splitting ; but in
my place it was the fruit itself that split, the stone being
quite sound. I will be thankful to know of any remedy,
and the cause thereof.—A. C.

12135.— Winter plants.— I have put up a lean-to
greenhouse looking south, and intend to take in mv bed¬
ding plants for the winter, and wish to know what tempera¬
ture will I require to have for those months. I have some
Tea Roses, Ferns, Fuchsias, and a good number of Pelar¬
goniums of various descriptions. The size of my house is
about 19 feet by 11 feet. I have no flue, nor do I think I
could manage a hot-water apparatus. I wish to know
from you if one of Wright and Butler’s petroleum stoves
would meet my requirements, and if, when using the
stove, it would be necessary to have a pan of water giving
off vapour on top. or may I use stove without it ? What
temperature would be most suitable for me ?— Amateur.

12136.—Seeds of Sweet Peas.— My perpetual Sweet
Peas bear great quantities of pods, and the yield of very
small Peas is so good that I should like to know if they are
ediblo. I could cover a long fence if that bo so and intro¬
duce a new vegetable. The plant branches into a shrub.—
G. R. J.

12137—Preserving old Pelargoniums.-Should
old Pelargoniums be placed in tho dark and kept dry, or in
a warm greenhouse?— Amateur.

1213S.— Repotting Ferns.- What is tho host time
to repot Maiden hairs, and ought they to be kept rather pot-
bound ?— Amatettl

12139.—Popples and Sunflowers.—I have some
Poppy and Sunflower seed of a very good strain. I am
very anxious that they should succeed. Ought they to l>o
sown in pots now and put out in spring, or ought I to sow
them in spring?—A mateur.

12140.—Heating greenhouse.— About threo weeks
ago a query appeared in Gardening regarding heating a
small greenhouse, size C feet by 4 feet. As I am in the
same position as the inquirer—viz., possessor of green¬

house 6 feet by 6 feet, and no heat—I have kept a look¬
out for an answer to the inquiry, without success, how-
ever. I have tried an oil stove, but could not get it to go
without a bad sniell, and as I should think the house
much too small for any of the hot-water apparatus which
are advertised, I am in a fix, and do not see any way out of
it except to let the whole lot die off, as they very soon will
without heat. I live in a northern suburb of Glasgow. I
wish some correspondent would come to our assistance
and tell us how we may keep things going, and not pay
very much for it— Tam Glen.

12141.— Passion-flower not fruiting.— Why is it
that my Passion-flower, which is all over the front of tho
house, does not bear fruit as one close by docs ? It has
borne thousands of blossom?, but no fruit. I have also one
in the conservatory, but no Iruit—M. A. B.

12142. -Wintering Fuchsias.— I shall be glad if
any readers can tell me if I can winter Fuchsias in a cellar
after dying down.—J. H. K.

12143.— Rose cuttings.— I have twelve In a 6-inch
pot, which appear to have struck ; also some othor mixed
cuttings. Geraniums, Fuchsias, he., iu pots in sandy soil.
Should I put them in separate pots now, or leave them
till next spring, and wh&t kind of soil should I use ? They
have been inserted threo weeks. I have no greenhouse.—
A. Adlant.

12144. — Cutting hack Hydrangeas. — When
should I cut Hydrangeas down, and shift one that is root
bound into larger pot?— A. Adlant.

12145.— Potting Rhododendrons.— When should
I shift some Rhododendrons into pots; also Atnpelopsis
that have been growing out-of-doors ?— A. Adlant.

12146.— Flowers for cards, &c .—Perhaps you
would go a little outside Gardening to give a subscriber
information as to drying and preparing flowers, Ferns, he.,
for Christmas cards or scrap books. 1 would feel much
obliged for full information on this matter, and I am sure
it would be interesting to many of your readers.— Sub¬
scriber.

12147.—Roses from cuttings.— Having a few choice
Tea and Hybrid Perpetual Roses, and wishing to propagate
from them, I should like to know what is meant by a cutting
with a heel to it, as I see that plan strongly recommended.
—Ignoramus.

12148.— Lapageria bare at bottom.— I have a lino
Lapageria rosea. It is in its fourth year and has not
flowered. It is growing up netting fixed to a glass partition
between greenhouse and vinery, and has plenty of light.
Its stems are bare for about 3 or 4 feet, but its extremities
aro well covered with young leaves. Should I make cut¬
tings of these, or cut the whole plant back, and if so, how
much and when?— Burnside.

12149 . — Self-coloured Clove Carnations. —
Would some grower of the abovo kindly give tho names of
the best bL\ varieties ?—Old Crimson Clove.

MOLES : THEIR MISCHIEF v. THEIR
UTILITY.

Moles have been to us this season the cause of
much trouble and loss. On one side of the
kitchen garden there is a wooden boundary
fence, under which they get ingress from the
copse adjoining. Every growing crop that re¬
ceived special treatment as to watering and
extra manuring was sure to be visited by these
depredators. The manure brought the worms,
and the watering made the ground soft, so that
it would be more easily disturbed. I have seen
the mole designated as the “ gardener’s best
friend.” Surely those who have given it this
title have not been great sufferers from its
agency.

The true position to take with regard to the
question appears to be this : Cultivators gene¬
rally in the past and the present have deemed
it expedient to destroy the moles that have
been at work on their land. That they have
been in error, and instead of destroying their
enemies have been putting an end to their best
friends, the burden of proof rests with those
who have made the assertion.

Has it been verified by actual observation or
experiment, repeated under different conditions
and circumstances, that the good these creatures
accomplish is more than a set-off to the mis¬
chief they do ? Or, conversely, can instances
bo brought forward where no moles are allowed
to exist, and vermin is so destructive, compared
to what is seen in other cases (similar in other
respects) where moles are unmolested and
numerous, that the inference can justly be
drawn that the difference is due to their agency,
and that the mischief by the vermin, in the first
instance, is more than a counterpoise to that
resulting from the action of the moles, together
with the undestroyed vermin in the second case.'

If we take a common-sense view of the ques¬
tion I think wo shall perceive that from the
manner in which the mole operates as a vermin
destroyer it is impossible for it to do it effec¬
tually without causing such a dislocation of the
soil to the lowest depths in which the vermin it
feeds on exist, and, consequently, such a dis¬
turbance and destruction of the roots, that it
would b<j alnK)st imjMJssibJc for any plant to live,
much less to grow and flourish. A mere deci¬
mation is of no avail, What use would it be

384

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 11, 1884.

for one to go into the garden and pull up every
tenth weed? If we purpose to reduce the
numbers of the individuals of any living species,
we must provide that the work of destruction
shall be carried so far that the survivors shall
not by multiplication directly make good the

1°8S.

Furthermore, the principal food of the mole
is earthworms, and I believe it to be pretty
generally admitted that the earthworm is useful,
if not indispensable, as a preparer and an
ameliorator of the soil, and it is doubtful if it
can be satisfactorily proved that it is generally
liable to multiply to an injurious extent. Their
numbers seem to be pretty well regulated by the
supply of nutriment, for where the soil is rich
and full of manure there they exist in abundance,
whilst, on the other hand, where the land is
poor there very few can be found. No act can
be beneficial that destroys useful agents. My
own experience, as far as it has gone, is certainly
unfavourable to the reputation of the mole as
a useful agent. At the place where it was
previous to my coming here, the kitchen garden
was enclosed by walls, which kept out the moles.
There was no kind of vermin more destructive
there than in the vegetable garden in the open
field, where they were very troublesome, and it
was much more free from ground vermin than is
the kitchen garden where I am at present.
Again, here we have a rosary enclosed on every
side by walls, into which a mole never entersj
and there is no piece of land on the establish¬
ment that is freer from ground garden pests.

L. C. K.

POULTRY.

SEASONABLE NOTES.

Harvest now being over, and the grain all
Btored, there will be plenty of food for the
poultry lying scattered about, not only round
the stacks, but on the roads leading to the
cornyard and the stubbles adjoining. But for
the poultry this grain would be lost, by being
trodden into the ground or eaten by birds.
Knowing all this, the farmer’s wife—careful
person that she is—keeps on all her young
cockerels to eat the scattered corn up, in the
belief that -when the grain is done the birds will
be fat and ready to be disposed of to the poul¬
terer. To a certain extent this is true, but if
carried too far the result may be different, and
after some experience and experiments, I
consider this plan is not the most profitable.
The best way—and that which will give most
profit and pleasure at the end—is to sell off the
cockerels you will not require, gradually, as they
grow up ; for by keeping them on till the corn
is in the stack and the stubbles ready, they
will have cost more than the extra price you
will get for them. But how about the corn
which is shaken out of the sheaves by handling
while being conveyed to the Btackyard ? This
cap be gathered up and stored for future use,
A jug of ale to one of the men, or any little
gratuity, with a request that you wish him to
gather up the loose grain which has fallen
round the stacks, will be all that is required.
Of course, there will be much that cannot be
collected, but that will do for the ordinary stock
of fowls, who will soon clear it all up. What
you have gathered up will require to be spread
out in the granary loft, to prevent its heating,
and then you can have a feed for your poultry
on a rainy day, without going to the farmer’s
bin and incurring his displeasure.

Cockerels should now be disposed of as fast
as possible. Early hatched pullets ought to
have begun to lay, and should be fed liberally.
Old cocks and hens moulting should be care¬
fully attended to—kept in on wet days, and
kept warm and dry. Birds for exhibition must
now be kept out of the wet, fed on good sound
food, and often handled to make them tame;
but stimulants must bo used very sparingly, or
else apoplexy will be the result. At this time
of year colds and roup are very prevalent; there
fore keep a sharp look-out for the first symp¬
toms—sneezing and water running out of the
nostrils—and treat at once.

An y broody hens should be set with ducks’
C gg 8 —Aylesburys for choice—os the ducklings
wm bring a good price at the beginning of the
year, and I may mention that ducks pa 1 / muo’i
better to rear for tfao Tnarket than Ao chicken *.
If fresh stock is ^eqi|i{e^ nc tOs| ^lre timo to

purchase, as poultry-breeders—especially those
who exhibit—are now clearing out all but their
best birds to give the others room. See that all
birds which have been allowed to roost outside
during summer are now driven into the poultry-
house every night. Cleanliness must be seen to,
and all cracks or openings in the fowl-house
must be closed ; and any repairs the roof may
require to make it rainproof should be done now
before the rain and snow comes. P.

Plymouth Rooks. —The plumage is cuckoo
or dominique, the marking across the feather
being of a darker shade than that of the feather
itself. The birds are large and massive, single
comb, red wattles, deep broad breast, mode¬
rately long neck, tail full and carried up ; legs
are free of feather, very thick, short, and yellow
coloured. Plymouth Rocks are an American
mixture, composed of Cochin, Dorking, and
Malay blood ; but the points are so firmly
established that they now breed true. They are
very hardy, good eating, and some of them
extraordinary layers.—P.

Scotch Greys.—These are moderate layers,
in that respect resembling the Dorking. Their
eggs are of fair average size, say about nine to
the pound. They get broody, but not more than
once or twice a year, so that theyare not trouble¬
some in that respect. They are very hardy and
first-class birds for the farmer, being capital
foragers. They are very good table fowls,
having, like the Dorking, the meat on the choicest
parts. Taken all round they are a very profit¬
able fowl to keep for eggs where a few are wanted
occasionally for the table and a few birds to be
reared annually. In crossing with Brahmas,
use Scotch Grey cocks and Brahma hens. They
are better pure, however.—P.

Roofing for fowl-houses.— In answer to “ L. M
as to what makes a good roofing for fowl-houses, I find,
after an experience of some years, that the cheapest water¬
tight roof can be made with long planks from an egg case,
covered with canvas and neatly tacked round tho edges,
and then well tarred and dusted with sand or road dust
while the tar is wet. An annual coat of tar is all that will
bo required to make the roof last for years.—B. Hayward.

-Let “ L. M.” try the Willcsden waterproof paper for

the outer covering of his hen house. The quality No. 1,
at Cd. a yard, will answer the purpose very well.

Ring doves.— I am going to keen ring doves; can any¬
one tell me what to feed them on at breeding time ?—Rlno
Dovb. _

BIRDS.

Canaries dying*. —Immediately the birds
are hatched, give, in addition to the ordinary
seed, a supply of equal parts of hard-boiled egg
and grated water-biscuit, well chopped and
mixed together. When the young birds com
mence to feed themselves, add to the soft food
crushed canary-seed, gradually reducing the
proportion of egg and biscuit. The birds should
have a room to themselves with a south-east
aspect, arrange the cage near the window, so
that the sun falls on it for two hours in the
morning, only visit them once a day to give
fresh food, and disturb them as little as possible.
If a good supply of sand is put in the cage, once
a week will bo often enough to clean out. The
first year I only raised one bird from twenty
eggs—I fussed them to death; since that I have
acted as indicated, and never lost a single bird,
—D. P. R.

Australian Grass birds. -Your bird has
either had a fever or is suffering from scurf!
caused by improper food—namely, food which
overheats the system but does not nourish—or
by keeping him in a room in which gas is
burned. Gas is very injurious to birds, and if
you cannot remove the birds into a room where
there is no gas, you should lower the cage every
night to within 3 feet from the floor, and cover
the cage to compensate for the difference of
temperature between the top of room and the
3 feet from floor. Give the birds a change of
food, seed alone is not sufficient to keep them in
health. Every day green food should be given
to seed eating birds, either Groundsel, ripe
Plantain, Watercress, Lettuce leaves, a turf of
Clover, or even Grass is a treat. Give your sick
bird, twice a week, a teaspoonful of boiled bread
and milk without sugar. The milk must be
boiled, or it will cause diarrhoea. If it should

with advantage partake of the soft food. Do
not give them sugar ; but a piece of old bruised
mortar is very good for them to peck at. Keep
the birds away from all draughts, but do not
coddle them. Birds are generally kept exactly
in the centre of windows, where the two sashes
meet, and where the draught is greater than in
middle of bottom pane. Place your hand there
and try it.—L. Higgins.

Insects in cockatoos. — I would be
obliged if the “ Lady Amateur Bird Breeder,”
or any other correspondent who understands
parrots, would kindly tell me of any cure for
parasites in cockatoos. I have a pink and grey
one, quite young, and in splendid condition,
whom I have only noticed lately is literally
infested with them. He is syringed frequently
with warm water, fed on Canary Seed with a
little Hemp, Maize, Rape, and Millet, also sop
occasionally, plenty of fresh water and green
food, and not any meat. He has plenty of
exercise, and his cage, which is quite a new
one (wire), is very large and roomy, and always
kept perfectly clean. He has begun lately to
pick out his feathers, and seems to be in
constant irritation.— Subscriber.

BEES.

Bees in house roof.— While thanking
Mr. Wyatt Pettitt for his notice of my question
about destroying bees, I think he misunder¬
stands my reason in asking, or else, perhaps, I
should have said “remove,” or “get rid of.”
The case is this :—The roof of my house (or
part of it) is so full of bees that I have a
difficulty in getting men to clear the shutes
or mend the roof. The means I have used have
been clearing all the honey I can get at, and
using carbolic acid, tar, sulphur fumes, and
everything anybody has suggested to me to get
rid of them. I don’t quite understand why
Mr. Wyatt Pettitt should be surprised at my
question. The bees are a perfect pest, not to say
nger, when swarming especially; and I
should add that neither my wife nor I like
honey, and I and the gardener and groom sre
afraid of bees. I should be very much obliged
if Mr. Wyatt Pettitt would describe his plan
of getting rid of my enemies.—J. E. Yonck.

HOUSEHOLD.

Yorkshire pudding.—Eight tablespoon -
fuls of flour, a pinch of salt, milk, two eggs.
Mix the flour and salt with sufficient cold milk
to make into a thin batter, then beat the eggs
for five minutes, and add them to the batter
and beat it up. Pour a little dripping into
an oven pan, say three or four tablespoonfuls,
put it into the oven and allow it to boil, then
pour in the batter, and bake until nicely
browned, next place it under the roasting beef
before the fire for five minutes. ^ In some parts
of Yorkshire a little sugar and a handful of
currants are added to the batter, and it is then
eaten as a sweet pudding after the beef. The
plain Yorkshire pudding is served on plates
with gravy by itself, and is not eaten -with the
beef.—W. B.

Rice pudding.—Four tablespoonfuls whole rice, one
ctrtr Bwmr, milk. Put the rice into a pie dish, beat the
egg with one tablespoonful of sugar, add milk to this,
beat again. Pour this over the rice, fill up the pie dish
with milk, and bake in a slow oven for two or three hours.
Serve with jam and cream.

Sponge-cake pudding.-Foil- penny sponge cakes,
strawberry jam, one winced assful of sherry, one egg,
milk. Cut the sponge cakes into slices, spread strawberry
or anv jam preferred over the slices, place them in a pic
dish, pour the wino over them, let them soak until all the
wine is absorbed, then fill up to nearly the top of the pm

dish with milk. Bake in a moderately slow oven hervo

with cream. _

H HEAP COLLECTION of HARDY PLANTS.

L —100 for 5s. 6(1. froe, containing Exhibition Perennial
Phloxes, 4 varieties: double Daisies, 6 wnej« *

Pansies, 4 varieties ; Columbines, 3 varieties,

santha ; Sinks, 2 varieties; Sweet Vio cts, toubl^djtaklc ,

Wallflowers, Polyanthus, Sweet Williams, Sweet

Foxgloves, Honesty, SnaiKlragons, Auriculas. Mnnulu..

Myosotis, and Saxifrages ; half quantity. ^

strong plants, to flower next season. Satisfaction guarautee l.

Marechal Kiel Roses, good strong plants, Is. 3d. each.

Maiden-hair Ferns, ver^-large. *1^ Pg*. l8 m« rh-V

9s. doz.; all free.—EDWARD MARGEKESON, I iori.jt,

Barlow, Chest erfield. _____

d show varieties, 12s.

Jfk Cd.dozen; Phlox, mined
[old-lnced. 9d. dozen,

do so at first, put a rusty nail in the drinking A URICU LAB,. naijne<
water. Give the birds once a week tho yolk of iA dozen; Seodltn^AurlciyL-_ , „, .

a hard-boiled egg. chopped fine ; allow a tea-

spoonful to each bird. \our other birds may Stourbridge. “ t - 1 - * u r -

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

OCTOBER 18, 1884.

No. 293.

$§g# mm

ARTIFICIAL BOGS, AND WHAT TO
PLANT IN THEM.

Boo plants have many charms of their own,
and are so easily managed and so different in
aspect to the ordinary class of garden plants
that they cannot fail to please; all that is re¬
quisite to form a bog garden is to form a hollow
space which will contain water. The simplest
way is to buy a large earthenware pan or a
wooden tub, bury it 6 inches beneath the surface
of the ground, fiU it full of broken bricks and
stones and water, and cover with good peat soil;
the margin may be surrounded with clinkers or
tiles at discretion, so as to resemble a small bed.
In this bed with occasional watering all strong¬
growing bog plants will flourish to perfection ;
such plants as the Royal (Osmundas) and other
Ferns, the Carexes, Cyperuses, <fcc., will grow to
a large size and make a fine display, while the
cause of their vigour will not be apparent.

plants. Large stones
should be freely used
on the surface, so as to
ll;i j form mossy stepping

Jn this case the water
flows in at the top,
and the surface, what¬
ever its form or incli¬
nation, must be rendered watertight with Port¬
land cement or concrete. Contour or level lines
should be then traced on the whole surface, at
distances of al>out 3 feet, and a ridge, of two
bricks in height, should be cemented on the sur¬
face along each of the horizontal lines. These
ridges, which must be perfectly level, serve to
hold the water, the surplus escaping over the
top to the next lower level. Two-inch drain
tiles, covered with coarse stones, should be laid
along each ridge, to keep the channel open, and a
foot of peat thrown over the whole. Before
adding the peat, ridges or knolls of rockwork
may be built on the surface, the stones being
built together with peat in the interstices. These
ridges need not follow the horizontal lines. The
positions thus formed are adapted both to gorw
and to display Ferns and^ Alpine plants to
advantage.

There is another way in which a minute stream
of water may be turned to advantage, and that
is by causing it to irrigate the'top of a low wall j
such a wall should be built 12 inches high, the

A Drac»na grove in the Scilly Islands.

A more perfect bog garden is made by form¬
ing a basin of brickwork and Portland cement,
about 1 foot in depth ; the bottom may be either
concreted or paved with tiles or slates laid in
cement, and the whole must be made water¬
tight ; an orifice should be made somewhere in
the side, at the height of 6 inches, to carry off

t.ho cnrnlna \rnfnv nn/1 nr»nfV»ot« in fVtn n t I

the surplus water, and another in the bottom at
the lowest point, provided with a cork, or, better
still, a brass plug valve to close it. Five or 6
inches of large stones, bricks, &c., are first laid
in, and the whole is filled to the top with good

K at soil, the surface being raised into uneven
nks and hillocks, with large pieces of clinker
or stone imbedded in it, so as to afford drier and
wetter spots ; the Bize and form of this garden
or bed may be varied at discretion. An oval or
circular bed 5 feet or 6 feet in diameter would
look well on a lawn or in any wayside spot, or
an irregularly-formed corner may be rendered
interesting in this way ; but it should be in an
open and exposed situation. The back may be
raised with a rockwork of stones or clinkers,

BANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 18, 1884.

top course being carefully laid in Portland need of a renewal of soil, although it appreciates How to cover a naked wall quickly,
cement. A course is then formed by bricks pro- good food. Of late some beautiful and distinct —I purchased my present residence twelve ,
jecting over about 2 inches at each side, with a species of Columbine have been introduced into months ago last September. The garden, which
channel left between them and along the centre cultivation, but none seem so truly hardy as the is enclosed by a high brick wall, was bare, ex-
of the wall, which must be carefully cemented, old Aquilegia vulgaris, and if only so much at- cept a few ragged Currant bushes and Borne Ivy
Small drain pipes are laid along this channel and tention were paid it as is lavished on many growing at the bottom over some rockery. 1
fitted in with stones. Large blocks of burr or garden flowers, few of them would be found to cut some shoots off the Ivy and stuck them in
clinker are then built across the top of the surpass it as regards beauty. It is said that last October, about 3 inches apart, along the
wall, with intervals of 12 or 15 inches between Hybridising Columbines is a mistake, as north wall, and I think nearly every piece
them, and these are connected by narrow walls likely to create an indiscriminate and undesir- rooted. Whilst writing I have that portion of
of clinker on each side, so as to form pockets, able mixture of colour, and that it would be the wall before me, and I see some of the shoots
which are filled with a mixture of peat and better to kee]p each species true. Whether this 4 feet and 5 feet high, average over 3 feet. On
sandy loam. The projecting masses of burr is a proper view of tne matter I know not, but the south wall I planted two climbing Devoni-
stand boldly above the general surface, and oc- if carried out it would undoubtedly bar all ensis Roses and two Ampelopsis Veitchi, besides
curring at regular intervals give a castellated progress, and we must remember that not so other things. The Roses, to my thinking,
character to the wall, which may be about 2 feet many years ago the same opinion was expressed have made most extraordinary growth—one or
high when finished. Hundreds of elegant wall in the matter of Orchids, while now some of the two shoots over 12 feet long. My wall at this
plants find a choice situation in the pockets, finest and most useful kinds we have are the point is 8 feet high, and I should think when
which are kept constantly moist by the percola- result of skilful hybridisation. Some of the these two Roses stop growing for this season
tion of the -water beneath them, while Semper- most beautiful species of Columbines are too they will have made quite 100 feet of new wood,
vivums and Sedums clothe the projecting burrs, miffy ever to become of real use as popular garden One of the creepers, A. Veitchi, is growing over
In fact, with Wallflowers, Snapdragon, Cistuses plants, but if their most charming features could the top of the wall, and its branches reach 8 feet
and Sedums, such a wall forms a garden of be engrafted on the common kinds, how great square along the wall. I have since measured,
blossom throughout the whole spring and would be the gain. That is but a question of and find from right to left it reaches 9 feet, and
Bummer. time, I feel assured, and, if I remember rightly, one shoot is over the top of the wall; the other

Plants for boo garden. —Perhaps the most Mr. Wolley Dod has stated that he was hope- nearly as much. I attribute this success to the
charming plants to commence with are our own ful of having done some good with ccerulea and attention I paid to the wall all through the
native bog plants: Pinguicula, Drosera, Par- vulgaris in this way. Others who grow a col- summer—viz., nearly every evening, whilst the
nassia, Menyanthes, Viola palustris, Anagallis lection of Columbines, and having leisure, could wall was warm, I turned the hose on to it,
tenella, Narthecium, Osinunaa, Lastreas Oreop- scarcely render better service to gardening than letting the water run all down from top to
tcris, Thelyptcris, spinulosa, and other FernB ; in obtaining crops with vulgaris and some of the bottom unsparingly, with an occasional water-
Sibthorpia europtea, Linnrea borealis, Primula rarer kinds, letting the former be the seed bearer, ing with liquid manure at the roots.— Devon.

farinosa, Campanula hederacea, Chrysosplenium Popular flowers are only those which unite Red Japan Anemone _ I strongly urge

altermfolium, and oppositifolium; Saxifraga vigour of constitution with beauty of flower and those who may not have grown this to procure
Hirculus. aizoides, stellans, &c.; Mimulusluteua, this many of our fine apeciea of Columbine it, for it ia one of the brightest of autumn flower.,
Gyperuses, Carexea, Calthas, Luzulas Carda- cannot be said to do. J. C. B. prod ucing its gay blossoms until quite late in the

mine, Leucojum Fntillanas, Marah Orchises, - season. I shall never forget the first time I saw

maraTes’lTnd.^from the 8 summits “of our hieher Lifting and wintering Dahlia roots.-

Gyperuses, Carexes, Calthas, Luzulas Carda- cannot be said to do. J. C. B. pro d U cing its gay blossoms until quite late in the

mine, Leucojum Fntillanas, Marsh Orchises, - season. I shall never forget the first time I saw

Equisetums, and a host of plants from our wintering Dahlia roots ^is hardy flowerin full bloom. It was in mid-

marshes, and from the summits of our higher Lifttog and^te^gDahha roots.- Novemb / when the beauty of the outdoor
mountains, will flourish as freely as m their As long as tne weatner Keeps open tne task or , • pn t; r plv nast thAfc T ham>pnF ( l

native habitats, and may all be grown in a few lifting Dahlias need not occupy attention. The and (Ze^un

snuaro feet of bos • while Rhododendrons Kal- usual practice is to allow the plants to stand to visit a hardy plant nursery, and came u

mias, Gunnera scabra, the larger Grasses, Ferns, until blackened by frost, and then to cut them ^§^ked with bright flowers Ythought^ hLl

have iwt space to emimerate ttie manjTforeimi 3S£

i nave not space to enumerate tne many xorei^i S__ lift th _ and „ rrv th ’ dearth of flowers at that time of year naturally

bog plants of exquisite beauty which abound, drying day to lirt tne latter, and carry tnem h > th p flv» P fi vpn p.M of this Janan

and which may be obtained from our nurseries, away to a shed with some soil attached to them to * u ut t jj e dlsjUnct colour of its

although many of the best are not yet introduced dr Y- They will winter anywhere provided the * d C raceful appearance of the plant

intothis country, in fact one ofthe great charms weil Man^have no The"? would secure it a pKce in any garden

of the bog garden is that everything thrives and celAar suits tnem well. Many nave no other flowers are most plentiful The

multiplies in it, and nothing ever droops or convenience than placing them under the stage d becoming well known,

dies, the only difficulty being to prevent the butlhe rod one has not yet Lome popular’,

stronger plants from overgrowing, and event.,- "*Pj“^ rr ? “ on must bTtoken though I am sure it will do so ere long, for as a

St frolic 16 Pre “ Utl0n mU8 ‘ teke “ bngh g t-c„loured autumn flower it ha, hardly a

ally destroying the weaker ones. I need scarcely covered, but am;

7. j r : "—cii j • 1 L «T I v airainaf frnst R bngnt-coiourea autumn nower it nas naraiy a

add that a,mall pool of water filled with Water a«““t frost.-K. ... rival. It is not so strong of growth as the

Lilies and other water plants forms a charming Pinks for forotog. -Among hardy her- white kind Md therefore Squire? rather more
adjunct to the bog garden. baceoua plants suited for forcing, the position cultura i ’ -a thia Jobably the reason

HOW TO IMPROVE COLUMBINES.

adjunct to tne Dog garden. oaceous plants suited mr rorcing, tne position cuItural 0are Md thig j, probably the reason

Sydenham. L. C. which u assigned to the Rose among hardy wh 80me h ^ ve been, in a measure, disap-

- shrubs may be accorded to the various varieties ^ with it _ Before planting the soil

HOW TO IMPROVE COLUMBINES. of Pmks. The sorts suited for this purpose are s y l01 ild be well stirred to a depth of 2 feet,
wDUiumitno. now numerous, and are mostly in the way of _j.i_._- lihprallv rotten manure mulchinu with
What has been suggested as to single Anemones the well-known Anne Boleyn, which may be material in Anril Durinsr Ju^v and

would apply with 6 equal force to Columbines, considered as the type of the forcing kinds, BoakS® of LtoL

reproduced trulT £om ">»?? of which are exceedingly beautiful as well anltom*September to NovemberVu will be

BESTS VtfSA Sh ^

have a hardy flower that might bo employed in sort should be annually raised from cuttings, * T . ,

many ways very tellingly. At present the putin early in March, and the earliest batch H972. Sowm# tmnuals.—It is not & •
Columbine is one of the most variable of garden of forced plants will generally furnish the supply V18a hle to sow later than the middle of May, as
flowers, but it has been proved that the fixing of cuttings. They will strike freely in a com- weather coming before the plants get good
of colours in plants naturally very much inclined post consisting of about equal parts of sharp hold of the ground they have not the tune to
to sport is only a question of time and patience, river or silver sand and finely shifted leaf-soil, acc l u ire sufficiently large dimensions to render
What has been done with Verbenas, Petunias, using well-drained pots some 6 inches in dia- them of any decorative value. Commence by
Phloxes, &o., could surely be equally well accom- meter, placing them upon a slight hotbed, and 80 wing a few patches of the hardy kinds e
plished with Columbines. Much, of course, may covering them with a hand-glass. Thus treated, l*®t week in March, allowing an interval o a
—nay, has been done by rigid selection in the they soon become well-rooted, when they .should fortnight between each sowing.. Make two eow-
matter of seed saving, but bees appear to be very be potted off singly into 3-inch or 4-inch pots, * n g 8of ^weet Peas—one the beginning of Marcn, i
fond of Columbines, and it lies in the power of a and be kept in a somewhat close and growing the other a month later. July 18 too late or
good-sized bumble bee to render futile much of temperature until they have become well estab- them ; they cannot come well into bloom^it \
the pains taken in this direction when the colours lished, when they may be placed in a cold pit. sown 80 late. They may also be sown in Ucto r
are grown indiscriminately together. The When the pots have become well filled with for early bloom, doing well in a general wayi
shortest road to roots, they should be shifted into their flowering where the soil is tolerably light. Ten er

Securing fixed colours, as well as size and pots, which need not exceed 5 inches or 6 inches annuals, such as Asters, stocks, Mangolds^
substance of flower, -would be to take in hand one in diameter, and placed in any sheltered but ^innias, &c., should be sown under a hand-Iign^
colour at a time, suppressing at once all other open situation in the open air ; or the plants, An April, transplanting to permanent quarter!,
tints, although where there is a large extent of when well rooted, may be taken from the la tt€r en d May.— Byflket.

ground the object in view might be effected, but 3-inch pots and planted out in a bed of mode- 12082. — Sanvitalia procumbens. — I<
not of course so surely by isolating each colour, rately rich soil in the open ground, and care- “M. B.” likes to communicate with me I cai
There are some deep rich shades of violet in this fully raised with good balls of soil and potted supply good seed, gathered this year, of thj:
flower, and it is not rare to find a really beautiful in October, using soil for the purpose of a light fine annual. I fancy that if kept any time i
clear white, as pure in tint as any flower need rich character. Among the best sorts for the loses its germinative power, for I experience
bo.. These would prove very effective massed, purpose are Lord Lyons, Rosy Morn, Claude, much the same difficulty as your correspond call
as indeed would a bright claret-red, especially Mrs. Pettifer, Coronet, Most Welcome, The and it was this season for the first time that!
amongst low shrubs and in front of evergreens Duchess, Miss Jolliffe, Garibaldi, and Anna succeeded in getting the seed I purchased 1
—places into which the Columbine seems to fit Boleyn. The named is exceedingly fragrant grow. At the same time I think there m#i
harmoniously, and where, owing to its hardy and beautiful, but the pod is liable to burst, a have been some error in sowing, or a few plus
nature and the finn grasp w’hich it takes of the circumstance W'hich detracts from the value of would have been secured from nine packet>l\
soil, it will fl<j€er f^ypAr^ilho^t feeling the the bloom, UN ^^/iiFouthlsr&nd see^Ij'bf'.a-similar nail *

y{ urbana-champaign I

*?.

Oct. 18, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

887

I find the best way is to sow about the grubs may have eaten them off as they appeared;
beginning of April, in a cool house, watering night frosts may have fatally nipped the rising
the soil well before sowing, covering the seeds seed leaves ; and the soil may have been too

lightly, putting a pane of glass on the pot, and
standing in a close, dark frame until germina¬
tion takes place. If seeds are at all good they
must come up if sown in this manner. As a
dwarf yellow bedding plant I doubt if anything
can excel, or, for the matter of that, equal,
Sanvitalia procumbens. It blooms with un-
diminished energy all through the summer and
autumn, and cares as little for inclement weather
as for prolonged drought. Plants at the present
time are bearing hundreds of bright flowers, and
are extremely attractive. The plant is of very
neat, compact growth, with lively green foliage,
each shoot terminating in a bright yellow, black-
centred flower, about the size of sixpence, and
which remains good for a period of six weeks.
Mine is the double-flowered variety, which I
consider far preferable to the single one. Each
plant requires at least a square foot of space, a
sunny position being indispensable. In partial
shade it runs to leaf, and has then nothing
particular to recommend it. — J. Cornhill,
ByjUct t Surrey.

The fringed. Buckbean. —Limnanthemum
nympha_*oides, known more commonly as
Yillarsia nymphmoides, is one of the lovliest of
British water plants. It merits introduction to

coarse in texture. The best way with seeds I
have always found to be to remove 3 or 4 inches
of the soil and substitute a mixture of fine silky
loam, sand, and leaf-mould, sowing thinly, and
covering the seeds but lightly. Upturned pots,
placed over the clumps, are a great help ; it
takes but a minute to run down a long border
and take them off or put them on the clumps of
seedlings, and they are not only useful to pro¬
tect the germinating plants from frost, hot
sunshine, and excessive rain, but they also
protect the plants from slugs if the hole in the
pot is carefully stopped up, and the rim pressed
well down into the soil in the evening. There
is such a thing as old and bad seed. The very
best houses can be relied on to supply fresh seed
which will germinate, especially if a sufficient
order is given.—J. D.

12067. —Marvel of Peru. — When the
foliage dies down take up the roots and store
them away in a cool dry place, planting out
again the middle of April; or they may be left in
the ground through the winter if the soil is
naturally light, covering them with several
inches of ashes or some light material. Marvel
of Peru likes warmth, and should, therefore,
have a sunny sheltered situation to grow in.

oar ornameo waters, in which its cultivation ' Rich ground is also a condition of success,
is so easy that no attention
is required after it has be- __—

come established. It is a
creeping perennial, and the
flowering-stems float far and
■wide, bearing leaves like
those of a Water Lily, bnt
smaller. They are prettily
dappled with led-brown, or
are even almost entirely of
that colour, instead of green,
and amid these sparkling
spots on the water the flowers
appear during July and
August. They are funnel-
shaped, about an inch across,
bright yellow, and fringed.

It grows from Norfolk and
<Gloucester to Sussex, and is
naturalised elsewhere, bat it
is rather rare in England.

In Holland it is much more
common. There large tracts
of canal are covered with its
beautiful leaves and flower*.

It is not at all like the Buck-
bean, as its popular name
would indicate, but it does

belong to the same order, though few would deeply stirring it and adding some rotten
think it a Gentian wort. The plant which it most manure. In hot dry weather give, now and
resembles in general appearance is Limnocharis then, a good soaking of water, and the plants

The Fringed Duck bean as it grows naturally flowers yellow.

Humboldti, a lovely aquatic, which may be seen
every year in the Victoria tank at Kew ; but they
are not related, as the Limnocharis belongs to
the Alismacete, the same tribe to which the
flowering Rush or Butomus belongs.—P. I. I.

12097. — Home-grown Tobacco. — The
only use that home-grown Tobacco can be pro¬
fitably put to is to fumigate the plant-houses.
It is beat grown in rich deep garden soil out-of-
doors. The plants should be raised in hotbeds,

will make a strong and rapid growth, and will
flower abundantly.—J. C., Byflcct.

- This is a plant of very easy cultivation,

and can be raised from seed in the spring on a
hotbed, or in a greenhouse along with Balsams,
Egg-plants, and similar things. With only an
un heated greenhouse it can be grown in pots the
first year, and gradually allowed to become dry
as the weather gets cold. The roots can be left
in the pots all the winter if kept almost dry and

pricked out singly in boxes, and they should be gafe from frost, or they can be lifted and stored
good strong plants about the end of May. Each ijfce Dahlias. The roots can be planted out in
plant must be supported with a stout stick, spring in the open ground, but it is safer to
The leaves should be dried by removing the start them in growth first. That is the state in
_sj _rw — a +1.am (•> »n tiw mYiaA nr w hi c h the roots are usually offered for sale in

mid rib, and laying them out in an airy shed or
vinery. When they are dry gather them
together in the morning and press them firmly
into a box or barrel. If the leaves are touched
when the sun is shining on them, they crumble
into powder.—J. D. E.

120S2. — Yellow - flowered trailing-

j, one year old and just beginning to move,
'he soil should be deep, friable, and well
manured, and the situation sheltered, and the
hottest that can be found for them. I notice
frequently in Gardening this plant offered in
various colours. That is misleading. The

plants.—Corydalis lutea would be the very name of “ marvel” is given to the plant because it
thing for " M. B.it is neat in habit, profuse in produces flowers of many colours in succession,
bloom, and flowers the whole summer. The the intermediate flowers being striped with the
fact that it will grow well on a wall shows that two succeeding colours, as, for instance, when a
it likes a light soil, a sunny place, and perfect plant is changing the colour of its flowers from
drainage. Other neat yellow-flowered plants crimson to yellow the first flower which shows
in Alyssum saxatile compactum, Achillea any yellow will generally be crimson, with a

tomentosa, <K noth era speciosa, yellow Sun-
rwe?, and the doable variety of the bird’s-
loot Trefoil, Lotus comicnlatns flora • pleno.
*M. B. ” should try again with the plants he
femes. Failures with seeds sown in the open
borders are very comm^ The seeds T may
have been sown too. di

nmoa^ I he seeds may

de v y; fnpynp

few yellow lines and dots; each succeeding
flower will show more yellow until they come
yellow entirely, after which another colour
will immediately begin to appear in dots
and lines as before. The number of inter¬
mediate flowers between the seifs varies greatly
—four is the smallest number I remember

noticing. With me the palest colours were
produced in the cool early summer, and the
crimsons, scarlets, and yellows in the hotter
weather. Heat also seemed to make the changes
of colour come more quickly, so that the north
side of the plants lagged behind in the changes.
There is no variety of Marvel of Peru except
one with variegated leaves. The long-flowered
or night-scented kind is a different species. The
roots of Marvel of Pern become very large by the
end of the second year, and, being of a branching
character and brittle, are difficult to store,
And best thrown away, a succession of young
plants being kept up from seed.—J. D.

12063.—Hardy bulbs for spring bloom¬
ing. —All plants may be planted now with
success. Ordinary garden soil, mixed with loam
from rotted turf and leaf • mould, or old
powdery manure from a spent hotbed, will suit
Daffodils, Narcissus and Polyanthus Narcissus,
Scillas, Tulips, Crocuses, and Snowdrops. A
rich sandy loam, mixed with leaf-mould, will
suit Hyacinths, Anemones, and Crown Im¬
perials. Early-flowering Lilies may now be
planted ; the best for ordinary gardens are the
White Lily, the Nankeen Lily, the Orange Lily,
and its varieties, L. Davuricum, and varieties L.
Thunbergianum, and varieties h. chalcedonicum
and L. c&nadense. It is too late now to think
of sowing Beeds for next summer ; that is a
business which should be taken in hand in the
spring of the previous year, and continued at
intervals throughout the summer, as different
kinds require finishing with hardy annuals to
stand the winter, in the second and third weeks
of September. The best way now will be to
wait until spring, and begin with hardy annuals
in pots in February in the cold frame, and
following on with sowings in the open ground in
March and April, and with half hardy annuals in
heat, to be hardened off for planting out in May.
Biunnials and perennials can be taken in hand
at the same time for blooming in the summer of
1886. Large plants of hardy flowering things
can be planted now, but the small plants sent
out by nurserymen are best planted in the spring
when the weather is favourable to their growing
away without check.—J. D.

12022 and 12038. — Hollyhocks from
seed.—I would like to give my experience
with regard to Hollyhock growing. I find that
if seed be sown in January or February in heat,
and the plants put out in April or May in rich
soil, they will bloom splendidly in September,
and the most forward ones in August. I have
some now half expanded, from seed sown in
April last. I think the best time to sow is as
soon as the seed is ripe (September or October),
the plants will then have an opportunity of
becoming strong by the time they will be planted
out. They require a very rich soil in order to
produce strong spikes and fine individual blooms.
—R. Mann, Shadtcell,

12110 .-Myrtl 08 not floweringr.—If the plants
were cut down by frost in 1880, the probable reason they
have not flowered is that they arc not old enough, they will
do so when they have had a year or two longer to grow.—
J. D. E _

Weeds on walks. —The system in many
gardens appears to be to break the surface of
these up once a year, which I think is a most
objectionable proceeding, as it entirely spoils
them for walking on for along time, and entails
much labour in getting them back to their firm
state again. Instead of breaking them up for
the purpose of destroying Moss and weeds, I
have always found it far better to use salt,
which we do annually, the usual season for
applying it being the end of May or begin¬
ning of June, at which period we endeavour to
select a dry, settled week for applying it, or if
in any donbt about the weather, we sprinkle
the salt with water while lying on the walks
to dissolve it more quickly, and thus save any
risk of its being washed to the sides by a
shower. Managed in this way, weeds and Moss
and all other vegetable conferva* disappear after
the first rain, and the walks are left as bright
and fresh looking as if they had been newly
gravelled, and remain in that very pleasing and
desirable state throughout the season. Of
course, it will only do to use salt where there
are dead edgings or Grass verges, as, however
carefully it may be applied, it is almost sure
to injure Box, which soon shows how much the
salt disi
turns.

disagrees with it by the yellow colour it

i.nsf&.=H^lTrC3riLLTr ; ](Tl , :i AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

388

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 18, 1884.

THE OOMINQ WEEK'S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Indian Azaleas.— Plants that bloomed early
last winter and completed their growth at a
correspondingly early period will be in a condition
to again force early this season. The time that
they can be brought into flower will in a great
measure be dependent upon the way they have
been treated. If kept warm through the early
spring until their flower-buds were large and
prominent, they may now be brought into
bloom by subjecting them to moderate heat in
five or six weeks, as in many cases the buds
will be almost ready to burst. A temperature
of 60 degs. in the night will not be too much,
but if they are less forward than here indi¬
cated they must not be kept too warm, or the
blooms will be soft and subject to flag when
cut, for which purpose many of these early-
forced flowers will most likely be required.
See that the plants are quite clear from thrips
or their eggs before being placed in heat, other¬
wise these will quickly increase and cause much
trouble afterwards. Keep them well up to the
glass in the lightest position available, and do
not at this season syringe them much overhead
or keep much moisture in the atmosphere, as
water applied now, except sparingly, either by
the use of the syringe or in the form of vapour,
tends to a soft condition of the flowers much
more than in the spring, when there is more
daylight and a drier condition of the external
air.

Hardy Azaleas. — Azalea mollis ranks
amongst the best forcing hardy shrubs in exist
ence, and is calculated to supersede the old
Ghent varieties. When well managed, by full
exposure to the sun where planted out in an
open situation with attention as to watering
during dry summer weather, it sets its buds so
freely that even small plants, not more than 1
foot nigh, are a complete mass of flowers when
in bloom. The obvious advantage of this is that
•o much flower can be had from plants in very
small pots. Enough stock to give a succession
by starting at different times through the
winter should be now at once potted up,
securing all the roots possible, with no more
breakage than cannot be avoided. Whilst the
weather is open they may be placed out-of-doors,
but on the appearance of frost should be put
in pits or frames.

Chrysanthemums. —If flowers of these have
not already been thinned, this operation should
be no longer deferred. The extent to which the
disbudding is carried requires to be regulated in
accordance with the nature of the varieties to be
operated upon. There is very great difference
even amongst the large-flowered section in the
ability of particular kinds to produce fully de¬
veloped flowers, some of the largest exhibition
sorts are not able, even in the case of strong,
vigorous examples in large pots, to mature more
than a single bloom on the top of each shoot,
whilst other kinds bearing medium-sized flowers
will carry four or five times the number. In like
manner, the larger bloomed Pompone varieties
should have their buds thinned more freely than
the smallest flowered section, which, for general
purposes, need little thinning. It is well to
bear in mind that even for ordinary decorative
use, where there is no disposition to grow flowers
up to the exhibition standard, it is advisable to
thus thin them moderately, especially in the
case of the latest blooming kinds, as where the
buds are in this way sufficiently thinned the
flowera that are allowed to remain have corre¬
spondingly more substance in them, and when
expanded will last on the plants proportionately
longer, in this way prolonging their season of
bloom. There are now a number of new varie¬
ties of these plants, mostly of Continental origin,
that bloom early, coming into flower by the end
of September, filling up the time between the
summer blooming varieties and the ordinary
later flowerers, and where there is a demand for
cut flowers in considerable quantities, note of
these should be taken with a view to obtaining
stock for another year.

Mignonette. —Plants raised from the earliest
sowing will now have attained considerable size,
and if they have been properly attended to,
ought to be well furnished with plenty of stout,
healthy foliage. If the pots are very full of
roots they musVbep assisted by lithe occasional
use of manure wfctcr, pi^’ie qp>l|q^Jion of some

> w^te^ Qpie qy^ljc^lfto:

concentrated solid manure to the surface of the
soil that will invigorate them as it is washed
down to the roots in the operation of watering,
otherwise the plants get a yellow, unhealthy
appearance, and there is a premature loss of
foliage, and a correspondingly weak condition of
the advancing flowers. Where this sweet-smell¬
ing favourite is in regular demand, a sufficient
stock of the new double white variety ought to
be grown, for although it does not seed so as to
be raised in the usual way, it can be readily
struck from cuttings. The enduring character
of the flowers and its general excellent qualities
are such as to make it well worth the little extra
trouble involved in its propagation. Where
young plants of it exist that are at all short of
pot room, they ought to have a shift at once,
using good loam well enriched with manure, and
to which has been added a moderate amount of
leaf-mould, a material in which Mignonette, in
common with most other soft-wooded plants,
makes roots more freely than in loam alone.
After this the plants should be kept in a light,
airy pit with an ordinary greenhouse tempera¬
ture, never allowing them to get too cold.

Lachenalias.— Many who force these pretty
bulbs allow them to remain too long in the
same pots without either giving them more room
or dividing the clumps ; the result is that they
become too much enfeebled to flower freely. If
means have not been taken to correct this before
they have started into growth, the balls may
be turned out of the pots and divided, each into
three or four, without more disturbance of the
roots than can be avoided ; drain the pots
sufficiently, use soil thoroughly enriched with
rotten manurd, and add enough sand to allow
the water to pass freely through.

Trop.«olums.—T ubers of the tricolor section
will now be about commencing grow th ; as soon
as this is apparent they ought at once to be re-

E otted. They thrive in either peat or loam,

ut it should be of a good open character, and
as these plants require directly they commence
growing to have whatever support they are to
receive in the way of a trellis to train them on
applied, it is necessary to put them in the pots
in which they are to bloom ; on this account it
is requisite to be careful in the application of
water until the new roots begin to move freely
in it. Give them a light position in the green¬
house and look diligently for the appearance of
green fly.

Fuchsias. —Young plants struck about the
end of July or beginningof August, if not already
transferred to the pots in which they are to
remain for some time yet, which should be 5
inches or 6 inches in diameter, ought, without
further delay, to be moved into them ; use good
loam, with about one-fourth or one-fifth of leaf -
mould added, which will assist their rooting
freely through the winter ; they ought to be
kept all but touching the glass in a night tem¬
perature of about 50 degs., and syringed over¬
head two or three times a week, so as to keep
down any red spider that may be about them ;
for though this pest does not increase much
during the winter, still it is so partial to
Fuchsias that it sometimes gets established on
them at this season. Old examples that have
done flowering should now be sparingly watered
to induce a state of rest; when the leaves are
partially fallen they may be cut back as close
as it is deemed advisable to 'shorten them, and
if a corner can be spared for them in a house or
pit out of the reach of frost they will be better
if the soil is not allowed to become quite dry ;
so treated, they will not become subject to so
much loss of root, and will start away much
freer when submitted to a little warmth after
the turn of the days. If subjected to a sort of
semi-dark treatment, such as under a green¬
house stage, or where there is insufficient light
for any healthy growth to be kept up, the soil
may be allowed to get quite dry.

Roman Hyacinths. — Where these were
potted early they will by this time have made
plenty of roots, so as to admit of their being
moved into heat previous to exposing the
crowns, which will bo in a blanched condition
when taken from the material in which they
have been plunged. They should be shielded
from the full light, for if suddenly exposed when
in this state to its influence, it has the effect of
crippling the foliage. After they have been
thus gradually brought to bear its power they
are better for having a light position, especially
if subjected to a high temperature, for in forcing

these and all other plants it is well to bear in
mind that wherever much heat is used the
amount of light should be proportionate, with
enough air on all favourable occasions. Only by
these counteracting influences can the growth
be kept sufficiently short and stout.

Flower Garden.

Spring bedding. —Where spring gaiety has
to be studied, no time should be lost in clearing
out the summer bedders and giving the neces¬
sary dressing to and digging over of the beds.
This can now be done without much sacrifice,
as, although there has not yet been sufficient
frost to cut off many of the plants, it may occur
any night now ; besides, it is very desirable that
spring-flowering plants, and particularly bulba,
should be planted soon. As to the arrangement
of the plants, much depends on the size and the
number of beds to be filled and the plants at
command. Provided there is no stint or limit
os to plants, then preference should be given to
planting them in masses ; but when plants and
bulbs are short, then plant thinly and fill the in¬
tervening space with hardy carpeting plants.
Small, choice, evergreen shrubs are also excellent
for dotting about the beds as single plants in
central positions, thus saving a certain number of
bulbs or plants, and at the same time imparting an
immediate finished effect to the beds. Hyacinths,
Crocuses, Narcissi, Primroses, Forget-me-nots,
Daisies, Pansies, Wallflowers, Stocks, Silenes,
Candytufts, Limnanthes, Saponaria, and hardy
annuals generally are among the kinds that
ought now to be planted, and as soon as done, if
the ground be not clothed with surfacing plants,
it should be with Cocoa-fibre if only for neatness
sake, though it is, I believe, of some little value
manurially.

Winter bedding. —In those places where
spring effectiveness is of less importance than
winter, a much better effect can at once be made
than is possible with spring bedding plants.
This is done by using dwarf shrubs principally,
though many other species of plants can be
worked in well; among them are Thyme—green
and variegated—Lamiums, Ajugas, Veronica
incana, Sedums, Saxifrages, and hardy Heaths.
These all do well for outer lines and ground¬
work, the shrubs being used for central masses
or as standards. The best kind of shrubs arc
the Retinosporas, Thujas, Cupressus, Osman
thuses, Aucubas, Cotoneasters, variegated
Hollies, variegated Yews, variegated Ivies,
green and variegated Periwinkles, green and
variegated Euonymuses, Box, and Berberis. In
the disposition or arranging of shrubs for winter
bedding, the colours being so nearly allied, care
is needed to keep them as distinct as possible by
planting the lightest greens with the variegated
kinds, the darkest with the silvery green, and
the formal growing kinds with those of an
opposite habit. By attention to this simple
rule, sameness of colour and a nursery-like ap¬
pearance will be avoided.

General flower garden work. —Lift all
plants that must be saved; any that are not
valued, and of which there is sufficient stock for
another year, may be left till frost has destroyed
them. Get all kinds of tender plants under
cover, but air freely in favourable weather.
Damp, atmospheric and at the root, is at this
season the sole cause of plants rotting off; hence
this should be guarded against. Proceed with
shrub and tree planting as opportunity offers,
there being more time for such extraneous jobs
at this time of the year than there is in the busy
spring-time, besides the additional incentive
there is for doing such work now namely, that
the plants, as a rule, flourish better. <

Fruit. [

Hardy fruits. —With the exception of a few
late Apples, which will be quite fit for gathering,
all the fruit will now be in the fruit room, and
the weather being so mild and favourable for

g round work, every operation pertaining to the
isturbance of the roots of the trees will require
and repay early attention. On high and dry soilH
the importance of root-pruning is not always ap- {
predated, but in cold, aamp gardens it forms the j
keystone of success in the production of good crops j
of nearly very kind of fruit. Another important I
matter in the management of wall trees is good!
coping, temporary or otherwise, for protecting!
the blossoms from frost. It is generally disl
cussed once a year s and is again forgotten until
the early flowers remind us that time is on tb

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Oct. 18, 1884]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

889

wing, and it is again too late to carry out the
good intentions formed after the sharp frost of
the preceding month of May. It is not for me
to advise the kind of protector, as circumstances
alter cases, but I may say I give preference to
portable glass lights 2 feet in depth, which can
be taken down and stored away as soon as the
fruit is set and safe from spring frosts ; and, as
there is now a period of barely four months
before us, my duty will have been performed
when I say now is the time to set about making,
purchasing, or providing protectors for next
spring. It will not, however, be well to put
them up until they are actually wanted, as con¬
stant protection makes the trees tender and more
liable to be injured by severe frost. When the
usual routine of root-pruning and planting of
what may be termed modern trees has been
brought to a close, there generally remains a
large section formed of old friends in the orchards
which would well repay the smallest favour,
and as many of the trees are profuse bearers,
the old-fashioned plan of taking away the surface
soil down to the roots, and replacing it with a
rich mixture made up of fresh turf, manure,
charred refuse, road scrapings, or almost any¬
thing that can be got together for the purpose,
will have the desired effect in increasing the size
and quality of the fruit. We will assume that
the ground is properly drained and the heads of
the trees well thinned out to let in sun and air,
bat if these matters are not satisfactory, the
dead months now before us will be profitably
employed in making them so.

Pruning and nailing. —Where the winter
dressing of fruit trees forms a heavy item, an
effort should be made to get the work forward
before severe weather sets in, as the work can
be performed in a better manner, and the early
removal of all superfluous matter exposes the
trees and walls to the cleansing influence of frost
and rain. With us the Currant is now ready
for pruning ; then will follow the Plum, the
Cherry, and the Raspberry. The latter will
have the canes securely tied to stakes or trellises,
the shortening back being deferred until later on,
and a good mulch of rotten manure will make all
safe for the winter. Peaches and Nectarines
we always prune as soon as the fruit is gathered.
The shoots are then neatly nailed in close to
the wall to ripen, and nothing more is needed
until the time arrives for unnailing and
drawing the branches away from the walls to
prevent the buds from getting too forward. To
prevent the shoots from being injured by wind a
few stont Ash rods are placed in the border
1 foot from the base of the wall and bowed in to
the coping. Every part of the tree is then
washed with strong soap water or a solution of
Gishurst, 8 ounces to the gallon of water ; the
shoots are tied up in small bundles and made
fast to the rods, and the walls are left quite clear
and ready for cleansing with a wash made of
quicklime, linseed oil, and Venetian red mixed
with boiling water. One quart of oil and a
pound of Venetian red to every gallon of wash
will produce a warm old brick-red colour when
dry, and to avoid having two shades of colour,
a sufficient quantity for the season should be
mixed up at once. If a fine, dry day is selected
for applying the wash and working it into the
old nail-holes, the enemies which usually attack
and cripple the first spring growths will be
destroyed, and the chances will be two to one in
favour of useful early shoots getting thoroughly
ripened before the following winter. In modern
gardens where the walls are well built, a brine
or quassia wash may be preferred ; but where
they are centuries old, and bricks of every con¬
ceivable shape and colour have been introduced,
& wash made up of materials fatal to insect life
produces a cheerful effect, while it increases the
chances in favour of better crops of fruit.

Vegetables.

Take up and store all roots forthwith, except
Parsnips, which are better left in the ground. I
find, of all the varieties of Parsnips, Maltese to
be the beat; it is short, but thick, and does not
take one-half the time to lift that the others do.
The quality is also quite on a par with that of
Hollow Crown or The Student, the two varie¬
ties usually grown. Fill up blanks in the
Cabbage quarter, and keep the hoe moving
among all growing crops. Lettuces for spring
cutting may now be planted, and the latest
quarter of spring Cabbage."' Eqdive should .pow
be lifted as v/anted ; wefoutdi af sw Mfcne in

any out-of-the-way corner, hut under cover,
plunged in any light material, sprinkling
powdered charcoal all over the plants ; no decay
then takes place, and they blanch beautifully.
Cut all unripe Tomatoes, and lay them singly on
shelves placed above hot-water pipes in the late
vineries, where they will ripen nicely. I find
the smoother fruits to be preferable to the ridged
ones. Outside Mushroom beds should be kept
quite dry; ours are semi-thatched with long
rough Grass. Wheat straw is not warm enough,
but dried Grass teased out makes the best of all
coverings. A mat thrown over all adds to the
cost, but pays well in the long run. Keep a
good supply of Mustard and Cress, and on
favourable days tie up Lettuces. Finish earth¬
ing up Celery ; we are now using the produce of
our first or early sowing.

ROSES.

12111. — Roses for exhibition. — The
plants are best in the open, but not in a place
exposed to high winds. They should be planted
2 feet 6 inches apart. If stable and cow manure
can be obtained, and laid in a heap in equal pro¬
portions, there is no better manure. Pig
manure also does well for Roses. Some Roses
do best on the Brier, others do best on the
ManettL The Manetti is supposed to be the
best stock for light soils, and tne Brier for heavy
soils. Tea Roses should be grown as well as
Hybrid Perpetuals ; they do best on the seedling
Brier. I would grow thirty Hybrid Perpetuals
to twenty Teas. The best Hybrid Perpetuals are
Abel Carriere, Alfred Colomb, A. K. Williams,
Annie Laxton, Baroness Rothschild, Comtesse
d’Oxford, Comtesse de Serenye, Davienne
Laury, Dr. Andry, Due de Rohan, Earl of Pem¬
broke, Etienne Levet, Fisher Holmes, Francois
Michelon, Helen Paul, Henri Lededraux, John
Hopper, Jules Finger, La France, Lady Mary
Fitzwilliam, Madame Eugenie Verdier, Madame
Hippolvte Jamain, Madame Victor Verdier,
Mane Beauman, Marquise de Castellane, Her-
veille de Lyon, Mons. E. Y. Teas, Vardy
Fierea, S. Reynolds Hole, Senateur Vaisse,
Ulrich Brunner. The best Teas are Anna
Ollivier, Belle Lyonnaise, Caroline Ivuster,
Catherine Mermet, Comtesse de Nadaillac,
Devoniensis, Etoile de Lyon, Gloire de Dijon,
Hon. Edith Gifford, Jules Finger, La Boula
d’Or, Madame Eugenie Verdier, Madame
Lambard, Madame Margottin, Madame Vil-
lermoy, Marechal Niel, Marie Van Houtte,
Niphetos, President Rubens, Souvenir d’Elise,
Vardon. The Teas should be budded on the
seedling Brier when the Roses are wanted for
exhibition, but I fancy a larger quantity of
smaller Roses are produced from plants on the
Manetti.—J. D. E.

12073.— Rose Victor Verdier.-— There is
but one Rose of this name ; it is not a climber,
but there is a climbing sport of it differing only
in its more vigorous growth. There is a race of
Roses, sprung from or of the same general
character as Victor Verdier, called the Victor
Verdier race; all are lightish in colour, the
darkest, Mrs. Baker, being a light crimson. All
have stout, upright, nearly thornless wood,
large flowers with spoon shaped petals turned
over at the edges. The opening flower is shaped
somewhat like a Tulip. The flowers are scent¬
less or nearly so. The true China Rose seems
to enter largely into the making of the race. All
are more tender than most of the other perpetuals.
Several other Roses are named after members
of the Verdier family.. As “Exon” mentions
a dark coloured Rose, he may have seen
“ Souvenir de Victor Verdier,” a dark crimson
Rose shaded with violet. The best climbing
dark crimson perpetual is Glory of Waltham,
a very vigorous grower. Climbing Charles
Lefebvre is also good.—J. D.

12080.— Rose Celine Forestier.— When
grown as a climber to cover a wall, the main
point to begin with this Rose is to secure strong,
vigorous, healthy wood. It should be on its
own roots, and any strong suckers springing
from the root should be encouraged to grow
freely to take the place of old wood. The
flowers are produced in clusters about the
points of the shoots, as in the case of one of its
parents the Musk Rose. The shoots, which
ripen in autumn, produce the first bloom, and
the second bloom is on the shoots of the year.
To cut back the shoots to a few buds is simply

to prune off the flowers. The shoots that have
stood the winter may be slightly shortened, and
the weak ones thinned out. The second growth
may be thinned out, but should not be shortened.
The old wood may be trained to the wall, but
the flowering shoots should be loosely bent
down ; the shorter ones may hang loose alto¬
gether.—J. D.

12054.—Roses for London garden.—
Roses will not prove a profitable investment
nearer Charing Cross than the north slope of
Hampstead-hill. A few strong growing old
kinds might exist for a year or two if well cared
for, but would never produce a flower such as
can be bought in the London streets for a penny.
Passion-flowers and Wistaria sinensis would be
the best climbers. Clematis Jackmanni might
be tried with success. For other plants see
“Town Gardening,” by B. C. llavenscroft.—
J. D.

12061.— Perpetual Roses.—Purchased seed of Rosea
cannot be expected to be of any use. The method pursued
by Rose growers in raising seedling Roses is either to sew'
the seed os soon os ripe direct from the pips, or to store
the pips in sand until spring, by which time the pulp will
have rotted off them. In cither case the seed must not bo
allowed to becomo dry.—J. D.

FRUIT.

PACKING GRAPES.

In spits of the great amount of information
which has been given from time to time in the
gardening papers upon this subject, I doubt if
it is generally so well understood as it should
be. The great fault which many appear to commit
is that of taking too much pains, for, although
there is a right way and a good many wrong
ways of going about the work, Grapes are ex¬
tremely easy to pack well when the one great
point connected therewith is rightly grasped.
If I were asked to epitomise Grape packing, I
should say pack tightly, for therein lies the
whole secret, or, at any rate, so much of it that
every other detail is but of secondary im¬
portance. Many ran away 'with the idea
that they cannot do anything better than
envelope each bunch in paper; whereas they
could scarcely find a surer way of reducing the
value of their Grapes. The paper rubs the
bloom off, and does not in any way add to the
security of the berries. I have more than once
seen Grapes unpacked in Covent Garden
which were much damaged in this way, and
I remember very particularly a splendid
sample of Lady Downes, and which had come
a long journey, coming out all bruised and
crushed ; they were not worth the cost of tran¬
sit. “ Look here,” said the recipient, a Centre
Row fruiterer, “ did you ever see Grapes
packed like these—thick paper round each
bunch ? If they had been dropped into the box
and the lid shut down on them without further
trouble they would have come better.”

We pack our Grapes very simple and they
never sustain injury ; we nave never had a
bunch reduced in value by transit in a period of
twelve years. Some soft hay is placed at the
bottom of the box or basket, a sheet of paper

f oes on that and the sides are lined with paper.

'he bunches are then put in as closely together
as it is possible to get them, not an inoh of play
being allowed if possible. A few leaves are put
on the top and a sheet of paper, on which the
lid shuts down with gentle pressure sufficient to
prevent the bunches shifting. This is very im¬
portant, especially when they have a long
journey to make, as in the hurry of getting
parcels out at various stations the baskets are
not always so gently handled as they should be.
In a general way we use what are termed
“ pea-baskets,” that is to say, such as come
from abroad early in the spring filled with
green Peas. These hold about 15 lb., but
for a long journey I should not care to
put more than 10 lb. together. This year
wo have used some of the cross-handled
baskets which the Jersey men use, and although,
through not being provided with lids, it seems a
risky affair to send soft fruit In them, in reality
they are very safe. Nothing can be put on them,
and the handle in a manner necessitates mild
usage, as it is so much easier to lift them about
in tnis way that no one would give himself the
trouble to pitch them about roughly in the way
square hampers often get served. So many
hampers of game and other things ore sen t by
rail nowadays, that, although “Fruit with care”

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

390

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 18, 1884

may stare the hard driven porter or guard in
the face, he will often in the hurry of the
moment treat the fruit hamper with little care.
An excellent plan is to fix a stout rope to the
tops of baskets ; this enables the railway official
to lift them easily without handles ; whereas
if no grasp is visible he perforce seizes them
in both arms, and naturally experiences some
difficulty in lowering them gently to the
ground.

Let anyone try the experiment of taking a
large heavy hamper without handles some dis¬
tance, and setting it down on the ground with¬
out jolting, and they will arrive at a correct
estimate of the truth of my remarks. In con¬
clusion, I would say never send soft fruit to a
salesman without advising him even to the
minute the train arrives at the terminus. A
market porter will then be there to take the
basket from the guard’s van, so that it never
goes on to the porter’s truck, as fruit often gets
more shaken there in five minutes than during
a journey of some hours’ duration. You may
always trust to a Covent Garden salesman for
this attention ; it is too much in their interest
to receive goods in first-rate condition to neglect
it. The more valuable the package is to the
grower the greater is likely to be the salesman’s
profit thereon. Put on each basket a large
label marked 44 Ripe fruit, with special care ;
this side up also the day of the month, and
the train it is to go by. B.

CUTTING BACK FRUIT TREES.

This operation, in my opinion, is as senseless as
it is mischievous, for instead of doing good in
any way, or serving any useful end, it causes a
severe shock and check to the plants so operated
on, and throws them back at least a year, as
after having made a season’s growth they are no
more forward than they were before the
beheading took place. If people could only be
brought to understand this we should not meet
with the many instances of mutilation now to
be witnessed ; and, instead of Apples and Pears
taking seven years to come into bearing, as was
averred by someone at the Woodford Congress,
they would yield fine crops in less than half that
time; they would quickly make and develop
large heads that would set fruit buds and
furnish plenty of blossoms.

Trees on walls. —The same thing, too,
would take place on walls, and it is lamentable
to think that valuable space is often left
bare that might be covered so much quicker
were it not for the knife. Beginners have
hitherto been led to believe that a tree must
be cut back to make it break at the base of
the shoots—an erroneous idea, for without anv
such inducement any and every back bud will
start if the plants are young and healthy and
planted with ordinary care in suitable soil at
the proper time. This is not mere assertion, as
I have proved it again and again. I never
under any circumstances shorten a shoot unless
the end is unripe. Trees planted in this full-
sized, unmutilated state make root quickly and
extend their branches rapidly, and may soon be
made to cover or furnish any reasonable space.

Disbudding. —All that is necessary in their
management is to disbud in the spring—that is,
if they are to be trained—and only lay in the
shoots on the upper sides of the branches that
are well situated, by doing which there is little
or nothing left to prune away in the autumn.
In order to make all this more clear, let us sup¬
pose a young maiden tree is obtained, or a year
older plant, and it has four branches, two of
which should be trained to the right and two to
the left, so as to throw open the middle, as the
next Bhoots that are fonned will fill that, the
tendency of the strength being to run in the
upper direction, and if the sides are furnished
first, or the foundation laid for so doing, the
centre may be easily provided for afterwards.
This, of course, applies only to fan-shaped trees,
which is the best form for most kinds on walls,
but if the horizontal system of training is to be
pursued, as is often done with Apples and Pears,
a central leader must be chosen, and the side
shoots laid in from that. For pyramids and
standards the best way is to leave all shoots to
grow at their will till the trees get size and are
fully established, when any misplaced may be
gradually cut away, and only those left that
will make or bring^the trees to. a good and
r gp!f^|^ l 9P|' ls Qi S. D.

gie

Grapes cracking.— So far as my experi¬
ence goes, I should say that cracking is certainly
due to atmospheric moisture, and that Madres-
field Court will not bear the treatment generally
pursued in regard to other varieties in the way
of damping down, evaporating troughs, &c.
As every little note on the subject may help to
the solution of the difficulty, allow me to record
the result of some observations taken from a
small vinery in a neighbouring place. The
house in question is planted with five varieties :
Black Hamburgh, Black Alicante, Foster’s
Seedling, Bowood Muscat, and Madresfield
Court, which has cracked badly ; these have all
don? well. They are planted inside, the fruit
wall being on arches in order to allow the roots
to run outside. No particular care, as far as I
can learn, was taken in making the border in
the way of draining, <tc., and the compost was
the ordinary garden soil (a moderately stiff
loam) with a little mortar rubbish in it, and a
little thoroughly rotten material from a spent
hotbed. The Madresfield Court (a single rod)
is this year carrying twenty-four bunches, good
in bunch and berry, well coloured, and half-a-
dozen would comprise the total number of
cracked berries. The change for the better is
said to be due to withholding water from the
inside border. Up to tho present year this has
received a good soaking two or three times
during the season ; but as the idea gained ground
that the amount of moisture generated inside
the house by this watering was conducive to
cracking, and alse that there would be compara¬
tively few roots inside to derive any advantage
from the water, it was determined to examine
the border during the winter in order to ascer¬
tain if the supposition was correct. The result
of this examination was that hardly any feeders
were discerned inside. Therefore no water was
put on all through the summer, and as the vines
were strong and the foliage clean, no more
damping down was practised than was deemed
necessary to the actual well-being of the other
varieties that are side by side with the Madres¬
field Court. I do not think it can be said that
the absence of water inside prevented crackirg
through any effect it could have had on root
action, as the number of roots under cover with
hardly any fibre could be counted on one’s
fingers. It seems pretty clear that the pre¬
vention in this instance was the maintenance of
a drier atmosphere inside the house. It would
be interesting to hear something as to when and
how water is applied where roots are entirely
under control. I should imagine that a slightly
increased artificial temperature, coupled with
extra ventilation, would be likely to have the
desired result.—E. B.

Pruning vines. —This operation ought to
be well understood, seeing the number of books
and treatises written on the subject. Yet I find
almost daily instances of vines crowded to suffo¬
cation, the shoots being laid in only a few inches
apart. I would advise all owners of vines that
produce unsatisfactory orops to Bee that the
winter pruning is attended to &b soon as the
leaves are off. Then thoroughly clean the
glass, wood-work, &c., and wash and paint the
vines with a mixture of Gishuret compound,
soft soap, and clay. Do not forget the roots, as
on them depends the crop ; carefully loosen the
border, and give it a good coating of rotten
manure. If liquid manure is available give a
good soaking with that treatment, which the
vine soon well repays.—J. G. H.

Ripening the wood of vines.— Heat is
an efficient ripener, and a little fire heat judici¬
ously applied will be of great use now where the
wood is soft and spongy. It is often said that
Grape shanking proceeds from the wood being
unripe, and doubtless in a sense this is so, but
then the main cause of unripe wood is deep root¬
ing in ungenial soil; therefore the true remedy
for shanking will be lifting the roots and placing
them near the surface in turfy loam.—H.

Marie Louise Pear. —This by some is con¬
sidered to be the very best Pear in cultivation.
I do not go so far as that, but I am positive
that there is no better or more generally
profitable sort grown. I have not had it really
good from pyramids or standards, but on a wall
it seldom or never fails. Even on a north aspect
it succeeds fairly well, while on any other it,
with us, rarely fails to perfect good crops of
fine fruits. These ripen during October and
late in November, and in size, colour, and

quality are simply perfection. If handled care¬
fully, fully ripe fruit will keep good for several
days, and this is an advantage, especially seeing
how desirous we are to prolong the season of so
good a Pear.—W. I.

Apples for north walls.— Having a
rather long piece of wall with a north aspect,
where the soil is thin and poor, I have tried to
grow various kinds of Apples upon it. I began
with Royal Somerset, but this only grew
sparingly, and never produced a blossom. At
the next trial I put in Golden Dncket (a local
variety of great merit), but it signally failed.
Four years ago I planted in the same place Lord
Suffield, which thrives as well as I could expect,
and has borne two good crops of fruit. Perhaps,
if the soil was better, other kinds would prove
satisfactory ; but a soil that will not grow an
Orleans Plum could hardly be expected to grow
Apples. The experiment shows, however, that
Lord Suffield will thrive where others fail.—
J. C. C.

Planting Strawberries. — Any time
during the present month is a good time for
making new Strawberry plantations, as the
ground being yet warm, fresh roots will be made
ere winter sets in. Do not, as is often done,
plant with a dibber, as the roots are thus
pressed all together in a heap, but cut down
with a trowel or spade, and lay the roots out
against the side of the trench thus formed.
Press the soil in firmly. In the case of light soil
it should be trodden quite hard around the
crown of the plants, otherwise frost is apt to
throw them out.—J. C., By fleet.

12105.— Canker in fruit treea— Various
causes have been assigned for fruit trees being
cankered ; the latest, that it is caused by insect
agency. There is little doubt of it being caused
by the roots of the trees getting into unsuitable
subsoil. Insects are sure to get into the
cankered parts, hence they are set down as its
cause. Prevention is better than suggesting
remedies. Therefore, trench the soil deeply
where the trees are to be planted, at least twice
over. If it is in good condition do not apply
manure. Plant the trees, carefully spreading
the roots out in a horizontal position. After
planting them, place a layer of decayed manure
over the roots. Where trees have become
cankered it would be better to perform the
operation of root-pruning upon them. This is
done by digging a trench round the tree, not too
near ; or, if the trees are old, half the roots
could . be done one year, and half the year
following. The trench must be about 3 feet
deep, or less if the trees are not large. The
object is to work under the tree as much as
possible, to cut the roots that penetrate deeply
into the subsoil, and all strong lateral roots
should be cut and brought nearer the surface,
some fresh soil should be placed round them.
Ribston Pippin, Wellington, and Cellini are the
kinds I have found most liable to canker.—
J. D. E.

12100.—American Blackberry or Rubus fruticosus
laciniatus, the Parsley-leaved Bratuole, is as hardy and
easily grown as our own Blackberry. The fruit is large, of
deep colour, and luscious. It may be grown up poles or
against trellises, &c. “ D. C. D. ” will obtain plants from
Mr. T. S. Ware, of Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham.—
J. P. Law.

12106.— Pear tree scale.— The oyster scale is aspi-
diotus ostreseformis, and a very troublesome pest. It mutt
be scrubbed off with a brush and soft soapy water. It
will come off easier if tho trees are well syringed with hot
water first. Water at 30 degs. or more will do ihe wood no
harm after tho leaves drop; a little sand may be added to
the water that is used to scrub the scale off.—J. D. E.

12086.— Topping Raspberry canes.—It is not

customary to stop them when making growth ; they ore
allowed to grow at will and are shortened back whon at
rest to about 4 feet in length.—J. C. B.

Rats.—I believe there is no simpler method
of catching rats than with the old-fashioned
traps. I mean when you have valuable dogs or
cats about. The ugly steel traps of to-day are,
on the whole, an excellent way of exterminat¬
ing these visitors ; but your favourite animals
may perchance run foul of them. On farms
poisoning may be tried with advantage, but in
the house this By stem is to be condemned. The
rats may die under the floors, causing noxious
smells and great expense ; I have even known
fever to be the result. The surest, safest, and
the most humane trap is, a wooden or wire
' I T Ur I lLI I 'JUI a Al

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Oct. 18, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

391

C

INDOOR PLANTa

**LADENIA9 FOR SUPPLYING CUT
FLOWERS.

F' the embellishment of epergncs and small
B P*nen glasses on the dinner table, the blos-
•° l of all the cultivated species of Dipladenia
ttr ®ost valuable, usually lasting several days
wh6)| aC ed in water or damp Moss. All of the
VAn } shades of colour to be found in Dipla-
denUowers have a telling effect under arti-
ncul-ht ; each flower can also be used without
ucritjg half developed buds. Under culti-
v&tioooo, but little room is required in which
to groTlipladeniaa—».<?., if trained on wires
ncAr ^glaas, the space underneath being left
availabf or shade-loving subjects. We grow
them iihis manner, ana when in bloom they
*re ve. effective,
the floy . trusses
}*tog b we d to
hang a lj e below
the wir* Dipla¬
denia an^ a here
represented j 8> j
think, oneof the
most cha* an d
beautiful r the
whole genui It is
invariably a^red,
and may soQti me8
be seen paind Q n
dessert dishe and
fire-screens. \ the
esse of the igh-
coloured varifes,
such as D. inshis
and D. Brearley» a ,
the colour deepm
with age, but in t^t
of D. anxvna t
fades off to a lov&
pale pink or flea
colour. With th
exception of D. boli
rienais, it is perhaps
the latest in bloom
in the lAte autumn,
when each flower is
valuable in some
way or other. Those
who do not grow
this kind should do
*o when an oppor¬
tunity offers. The
most useful Dipla¬
denia in bouquets
and similar arrange¬
ments is perhaps the
Bolivian one just
alluded to, and this
should also be grown
by all who have not
yet got it in con¬
junction with the
variety under notice.

—J. H.

suits this Salvia, but all soft-wooded plants that
require a stimulant. To succeed S. splendens
Bruanti, S. gesneneflora should be grown, as
this variety comes in about March, just after
the beauty of the first named in over. Being of
a hardier nature, 8. gesnera-flora requires less
heat, and during the winter is best kept in a
light, airy house, otherwise its shoots become
drawn, and, as a consequence, more weak, when
the heads of blooms the plants produce are
small and poor to what they are when well
treated.

Another Salvia equally deserving is S. Heeri,
which is perhaps the freest of any, as not only
does this kind send up long, tapering spikes of
flower, but all the main ones branch out and
form others at their base, and the whole last a
long time in perfection. S. Heeri is the latest
to bloom, ana plants of it should be still grow-

SALVIAS.

Amongst the many
kinds of greenhouse
plants now in culti¬
vation few are more
tueful than Salvias,

flowering, as many of them do, hrough the
autumn and dullest months of winter. One
the earliest as well as the finest is S splendens
nnianti, a kind which bears dense spkes of daz¬
zling scarlet flowers from almost ev>ry shoot,
and these spikes go on elongating till hoy reach
«inches or more in length, when th<y make a
grand show. Although this Salvia h capable
u becoming so effective, it requires special treat¬
ment to have in perfection. It must not only
be well and strongly grown, but must be kept
jn a genial atmosphere, which should not be
~ >wer than 55 degs. ; when in a less degree of
beat the plants soon assumes distressed lo»k, and
commence shedding both leaves and blcBsoma,
instead of the side Bhoota extending, as they do
when sufficient warmth is afforded, and produc¬
ing a continuous succession of flowers.

To assist them in doing this, the roots dhould
Je well fed with some liquid fertiliser, the best
for the purpose being th’af F made frorrl cow
manure with a little uoo^ad^d) th iXJ^fly

DIPLADENIA AMCKNA.

Ing ; but, like the one above mentioned, they
must be kept cool, with plenty of air, or they
will become very long in the stem. S. rutilans
is in favour with some, bat the spikes and
flowers are too small, and are not sufficiently
showy to be of much decorative value, although
being of a different shade of colour it affords
variety, and is perhaps worth growing on that
account to mix with the others. S. Bethel li is
a large, bold kind, and very distinct, sending
up strong spikes of plum-shaded blooms. The
richest, however, of all the Salvias is the lovely
old S. patens, which is quite unrivalled among
flowers for its great depth of blue. Hitherto this
variety has been but little grown except as a
border plant, and yet it is one of the most de¬
sirable Salvias anyone can have in a house, where,
if the tubers are kept back late in the spring, or
young stock propagated and grown on from
them, it lasts in beauty till well on into the winter,
as outdoors it is an autumn bloomer, and is
often about its best when cut off by the frost.

S. Pitcheri comes next to the last named in
nearness of colour and intensity of blue of its
flowers, which, though small, are exceedingly
beautiful, and are borne by the plants with the
greatest of freedom. In habit this kind is
sparse and thin, showing the nature of the Sage
more than any of the others, as the leaves are
not only hard and of a dry texture, but the
slender stems partake of the same character, and
are woody and stiff. It is on this account that
the cuttings are not easy to strike, neither are
the plants at all free of growth, and the best
way is to raise them from seed, from which
they come stronger, and attain more size in the
season.

Propagating.— All the others being soft pro¬
pagate freely, and by putting in cuttings at
different times after March, plants of different
sizes may be had for furnishing, those of atout
a foot high in 6-inch
pots being very ser¬
viceable for inside
window boxes or the
low stages in front
of a greenhouse.
Where large speci¬
mens are required,
the best way is to
turn the plants into
the open ground
about the first week
in June, and lift and
pot them again in
the autumn ; if this
is done they are not
half the trouble, and
finer and healthier
plants may be ob¬
tained. As they are
very brittle and snap
to pieces when ex¬
posed to the wind,
it is necessary to
pick a sheltered
place and to sup¬
port the main stem
with a stake, espe¬
cially S. splendens
Bruanti, which is the
moat tender of all.
To facilitate the lift¬
ing and keep the
roots in fair bounds,
it is a good plan to
run a sharp spade
round the plants
once or twice during
the summer, which
will induce fresh
feeders nearer home,
so that when the
plants are taken up
they will feel little
or no check from the
change. To prevent
this they should be
placed under the
shady side of a wall
for a few days, and
be frequently sprin¬
kled overhead, which
will keep the leaves
fresh and stop them
from flagging, and
the same treatment
will be required for
a short period after they are housed if the atmo¬
sphere proves dry at the time. S. D.

SPIR.EA JAPONICA.

The Hoteia (Spiraea) japonioa, as it is frequently
called, is an exceedingly useful plant for forcing,
on account of its fine foliage and large panicles
of feathery-white flowers, which it usually pro¬
duces in great abundance, and these have also
the very desirable property of remaining long in
good condition when cut and placed in water, as
well as when allowed to remain upon the plants.
The plants are naturally of a dwarf and com¬
pact habit of growth and seldom require support
in the form of stakes or otherwise; consequently
they are well Adapted for all decorative purposes.
And although no foliage can be supposed to
associate better with flowers nf any kind than
that of the plants which produced them, still,
it so happens^ that tome plants, «inh a» the
Lilac, Gheijitj pffijjflj] jf

392

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 18, 1884

into flower, do not produce foliage enough for
the purpose, and there are certainly few plants
whoso foliage is eo well adapted to supplement
this deficiency as that of the Hoteia, which is
exceedingly ornamental, and when placed in
water keeps long in good condition. In the
open air this plant succeeds beat in a somewhat
damp situation; the soil and climate of Holland
are, therefore, admirably suited to its culture,
and it is consequently imported annually from
that country in small clumps or pieces ready
for potting for forcing. It may, however, be
successfully grown for that purpose in suit¬
able situations in this country, and the number
of plants likely to be required should be potted
in October and placed in a cold pit or frame,
from which they should be introduced at
intervals into the forcing-house. A somewhat
brisk heat is necessary to induce it to start into
growth ; but this, at the same time, should be
applied gradually, and before the flowers are
fully expanded the plants should be removed
into the greenhouse or some other cool structure.
As an abundant supply of water is absolutely
necessary, the pots may with advantage be
placed in pans or saucers, which will retain the
water which drains from the pots, and which
the roots of the plants will speedily absorb.

Winter flowering Pelargoniums.— If
zonal Pelargoniums for winter flowering have
been properly prepared, they will now be coming
into blossom. Therefore, the next essential con¬
dition is a light warm house, for it is impossible
to have them in good condition unless the air of
the house is kept dry and a suitable temperature
is maintained. The day heat should be from
55 to 60 degs. and 45 degs. at night, and a
moderate amount of air should be admitted every
day whenever the weather is favourable. Motion
in the air of the house is an indispensable con¬
dition if they are to be kept free from damp and
with perfect trusses of flowers. In lofty and
dark conservatories it is a difficult matter to
keep these plants in good condition for any
length of time ; therefore, if possible, a more
suitable structure should be selected for them—
one in which there is nothing between tho
plants and the glass to obstruct the light, and
where they can be either near the front lights
or on a shelf near tho roof. Unfortunately but
few can devote a house specially to them, but
where they can be so treated few plants are
more easily managed or more attractive when
in bloom during the winter months. All points
considered, it is a question if there is another
class of plants that can equal them, but it must
be understood that their merits must not be
settled by the condition in which they are
generally seen in private gardens, for in very
few of these is there proper convenience for
giving them the treatment which they require.
If we want to Bee zonals grown and flowered in
winter as they should be we must go to Swanley,
where whole houses are devoted to them, and
where, when once seen, they make an im¬
pression not easily effaced. To induce the
plants to continue flowering the application of
a fertiliser of Borne sort is necessary ; that which
can be given in a liquid form is the best. I have
found an ounce of the best guano to a gallon of
water administered once in ten days equal to
any of the artificial manures now used. Cleanli¬
ness is another point of importance in reference
to them ; all decaying flowers should be care¬
fully removed with a pair of scissors, and all
yellow leaves should be regularly picked off.—
J. C. C.

Siebold’s Primrose (Primula Sieboldi).
—Once a year, and then only in a small
way, do we hear anything about those lovely
Japan Primroses which so fitly bear the
name of Siebold. That not more is heard
of them, or in praise of them, is doubtless
due to the fact that so few grow, or know
how to grow them. It would be incorrect to
class these Primulas as hardy in the sense that
they may be planted out in the open border and
left to shift for themselves. They are so far
hardy that ordinary frosts do not injure them,
but they are harmed by excessive moisture, and
outdoors want both a dry position and some
shelter. But their chief charm, blooming, as
they do, at a time when frosts and harsh east
winds are apt to .prevail, is wh<m employed as
reenhouse plaafts?and M ^ pots, pro-

ucing some W felf-^ ^zjb r trusses of

bloom, it is not easy to beat them for elegance
or beauty. The stems are brittle, and the
flowers somewhat fragile, but under glass and
without heat graceful, and indeed lovely. I
fear all w r ho have obtained the home-raised
kinds have failed to treat them so as to secure
the best results. Briefly, I would say that,
whilst the crowns should not be so crowded in
the pots as to prevent full development, yet
excessive root room is not desirable. I grow
all my stock during the summer either in pans
or 6-inch pots, where the rhizomes and foliage
find ample room for development. Upon this
free development depends the blooming capacity
of the crowns the next season. After the best
of the bloom is over in May all the plants are
placed in a cold frame, where they are sheltered
from hot suns and heavy rains ; strong winds,
too, are objectionable, and are not difficult to
guard against. Granted these conditions, with
careful attention in watering, and their culture
for the summer is complete. Early in winter
the pots are brought under cover, the roots
turned out, and all the rhizomes picked out and
broken up, the strongest being put on one side
for potting singly in 3-inch pots, and the rest
are repotted into 8-inch pots, to grow into stock
for the following year. Of course, many of
these latter bloom ; but all those selected for
potting singly will bloom freely. The roots
like the early contact with the sides of the pots,
which they soon feel when in such small ones,
and invariably the growth so treated is stronger
and the bloom finer and better coloured than is
the case when the rhizomes are repotted at
once into large pots. The great advantages
which follow from the plan of potting the best
crowns singly are, first, that for furnishing or
ordinary decorative purposes they may be used
anywhere and in many ways ; and secondly, if
required for exhibition, half-a-dozen of the best
put into a 7-inch pot give a beautiful, even
clump at once. All these single plants are, ere
the summer comes, shifted into 8-inch pots for
summer growth. The following are all good
kinds, viz., laciniata, fringed, dark red; rosea
laciniata, fringed, pink ; alba grandiflora, fine
pure white ; Ophelia, drooping lilac ; Hermia,
delicate mauve ; and Mauve Beauty, tinted
white. These are all free growers, though
thero are others equally beautiful.— A.

12077.— Flowers in winter.— The best
flower for a cool house to bloom in winter is the
Chinese Primula, both red and white varieties,
and which properly grown comes into flower
by December, lasting all through the winter
months. Either sow the seed in April or pro¬
cure plants later on, growing them according to
the directions so often given in Gardening.
Another fine winter flower is Paris Daisy
Etoil d’Or; if grown into good plants by
autumn will bloom all through winter and
spring. Then there are winter flowering Tro-

leoluins and Cyclamens, and late blooming

inds of Chrysanthemums, such as Fleur-de-
Marie, Mrs. C. Carey, and others. Everything
intended for winter bloom must be taken in
hand in spring, so as to get the plants strong by
autumn.—J. C. B.

12113.— Lilium auratum.— If kept in the
house they should be at rest after the stalk has
died down. If they have blossomed out-of-
doors the roots may be lifted for the winter and
stored away dry and cool, and in either case
started in slight heat the next year. They do
better out-of-doors almost than under glass, and
the bulbs may be used in or out, and if rightly
managed they will be beautiful and vigorous for
some years.—J. P. Law.

- After flowering some people place the pots contain¬
ing tho plants out-of-doors ; this is an error, as they suffer
so much from -wet. The plants should he kept under
glass, and sparingly watered until potting time in October.
With good management they will flower better the second
season than they did the first, and stronger the third than
they did the second. If it is thought desirable to do so,
they may be planted out-of-doors.—J. D. E.

12045.—Propagating double Nasturtiums.—
The young rather slender growths which have not flowered,
and which generally spring from the base of the plants,
strike readily in summer and early autumn, inserted in
sandy seil, and kept close in a frame. Keep the soil moist,
and give a little air for an hour or so in tho morning.—
J. C. B.

12089.—Plumbago capensis.—I kept a plant in a
cold greenhouse (draughty and not watertight), merely
putting an oil lamp in on the coldest nights, cut back in
spring, and have had graud bunches all summer.—E. R. W.

13098.— Cinerarias falling.— An occasional plant
will go off with the roots apparently healthy, and it
generally h&ppeus after drying winds. Probably plants

hat have been shaded would suffer more than those ,re
exposed. l)o not expose the plants too much to dr Mt
winds, especially if the leaves are very large. It *■£
enough to grow large plants with leaves like; na |J
Rhubarb, but that Is not a sign of good culture. 3Uch
plants have the most tendency to die off.—J. D. E.

12108.—Fuchsia buds dropping off.-Tj 8 a
very’ annoying and frequent occurrence, and is c*®“ -
the plants receiving some check. Sudden chang 1 "
perature will cause it; indeed, it is the most e< l uent
cause. Too much or too little water at the rootf*. v ~*°
be the cause of mischief. Anything that gires nock to
the system is resented by the plants droppin Jfl “ ieur
flower buds.—J. D. E.

THE VILLA GARDE*

(Continued from page 381 .)

The Pine Apple.

Though Pine growing in this count f° r the
present languishing in face of forei 1 competi¬
tion, yet, as history repeats itself, f something
may yet occur to bring the king c fruits into
such repute as to make it worth ^e to cul¬
tivate it at home again. I am -°t going to
write a long or exhaustive article I 8 hall only
state as plainly and as simply as can w hat I
consider to be the chief essentia 1 an< i we
begin first with

Houses for Pinf .

We will, for convenience sak divide the life
of the Pine Apple plant into hree. periods—
viz., First, the sucker or pr>*g a ting 8 ^ e '*
second, the successional peru i an <I, thirdly,
the fruiting time. Under fair favourable con¬
ditions these three periods or^ages will occupy
about 20 months or two year Thus, from the
time the sucker is taken froi the old plant till
the fruit is ripe will be aboi» 8a y, two years,
roughly computed. As uring these three
stages of growth somewhatliflerent treatment
will be required, so, if pos'blej there should be
three different structures * ensure a fair suc¬
cession of fruits. The friting house should be
capable of holding 100 iants, allowing from
2 met to 2^ feet squared each plant. The
succession house need nc be quite so large, as
the plants in this stage "ill not take up so much
room ; and the suckeior propagating house
may be still smaller, k span-roofed house is
best for successions nd fruiters, as light is
essential to dwarf, -urdy growth, and the
latter condition is Denary to produce hand¬
some well-swelled offruit. In the old days 1
remember so well in© bouses were always
lean-to’s, and the r^fs of most were heavily
timbered. The bed or pits for bottom heat
were composed of tn or leaves, and a flue sup¬
plied the top heat. Though this, in comparison
with present applinces, may be looked upon as
being very primit^e, yet very good Pine Apples
were cut under suh conditions. The fruiting-
house should l>ve hot-water pipes for both
bottom and toj heat, though not absolutely
necessary for tie successions and suckers, pro¬
vided plenty ofcan or leaves can be obtained
for bottom hea. Still, pipes are best, and, as
they are necesary for top heat, the extra cost of
running a coule of pipes under the bed may
well be incurrd. In all stages the plants should
be near the jiass, though in hot weather the
proximity o the glass will render shading
mere necessjry. Still, with all this, to obtain
fine fruit infihe shortest time possible the plants
must be netf the glass. A very good house for
Pines is a sort of half-span, with a long »de
facing souti, and a short light to the north. It
very often happens that Pine stoves have to do
double dixy. I have seen Cucumbers, Grape3,
French Bians, Tomatoes, and Strawberries all
coming *n vigorously in a Pine stove, and all
gardeneia know the value of such structures to
forwardmany things early in the year. In the
managenent of the Pinery the plants cannot be
potted and shifted on as required in the same
way as a collection of stove or greenhouse plants.
For retsons which need not be explained here, the
potting and shifting usually takes place either
in Mtrch or at midsummer, or in September.
These are the three periods when the potting,
top-dressing, and general rearrangement takes
place in large Pine-growing establishments;
and usually all hands are put to the work to
get it done with despatch, as during the time
one party are potting the Pines another party
will be changing or renewing the plunging
material. Even where there are hot-water
pipc 3 this will be necessary uomeiimes. Oak
leaves are excellent to plunge the pots in

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Oct. 18 , 1884 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

393

i

*

V

>

>?

*

Wiere they cannot be had Cocoa fibre will do.
Tab is often used, but it requires careful
matagement to keep it from getting too hot.
The best way is to mix the fresh and the spent
tan ;ogether, about one part of the former to
two of the latter ; this will be quite enough
where bottom heat from hot water is laid on ;
if there is any danger of the tan getting too
hot the bottom heat from the pipes should be
shut of. With leaves or Cocoa fibre there is no
danger of over-heating. The late Mr. Andrew
Knight, of Downton Castle, thought Pine
Apples might be grown without bottom heat,
and tried to grow them on stages like other
stove plants, but he did not succeed. Not only
is the bottom heat essential, but the plants seem
to like their roots enclosed in a bed of moist fer¬
menting matter. It adds to their strength and
vigour. The bottom heat need not exceed 75
degs. or 80 degs. in a general way. There are
times when shy or sluggish fruiters may, with
advantage, have a little more to push up their
fruits or to finish them off, but during the early
stages of growth 75 degs. will be enough.

Propagation.

This is from suckers and crowns, the former
method being the one chiefly relied on where a
sufficient stock is kept up. As Pines are
not, in private families, required all at once,
neither should the suckers be all potted
at any one time. The best plan is to plant
a proportion of suckers at each potting
season— i.e. t some in spring, others at mid¬
summer, and some in September. Where
suckers are plentiful only the strongest and best
should be potted ; by having the power of
selection the probationary period may be
shortened, as the weaklings will be thrown
away. Some people use rather a lighter compost
for the suckers, but where they are strong this
is not necessary. Turfy loam from an old
pasture that has lain in a heap from eight to ten
months, broken up with the spade, with half a
gallon of soot ana the same quantity of bone
meal to each barrowful, will make a good
compost. Any further support can be given in
the shape of liquid manure. The short leaves
at the bottom of the suckers should be trimmed
off and about half an inch of the base removed
with a sharp knife. The size of the pots must
be regulated by the size of the suckers, but
6-inch pots will do for the strongest. The pots
must be well drained, as water-logged plants
never do any good, and the soil must be pressed
in firmly, as they root more speedily, and make
stronger roots in a firmly-packed soil than if
loosely potted. When the potting is finished
plunge them in the bed prepared for them in the
sucker-house or pit, keeping close and shading
from bright sunshine, lightly dewing them over
with the syringe every fine day to maintain a
moist atmosphere. Very little water will be
required in the pots till roots begin to
form. After the nrst watering, which may
be given a day or two after potting, little
more will be required till the roots strike out.
Sometimes suckers are planted thickly in a bed
in prepared compost or in a warm pit to
facilitate rooting, and then potted as soon as
roots are formed ; but there is not much gained
by it, as when once established in pots no
further check need be given. They will simply
be shifted from the sucker pots to the successions,
and in due time will reach the fruiting size,
which, for Queen’s, need not exceed 10 inches in
diameter. The strongest of the suckers potted
in March will in September be moved to the
succession house, and be shifted into 8-inch pots.
The March following, at the latest, all will be
in their fruiting pots, the strongest plants
having been weeded out and potted into 10-inch
pots in September. When shifting plants from
a small pot to a larger one, remove two or three
leaves from the bottom and drop the ball a little
deeper in the new pot. By earthing up the
item in this way a new set of roots is produced,
and the more strong new roots the plants have
the better. In all cases perfect drainage is
veiy necessary, and the soil should be rammed
ta firmly with a potting stick. If the roots are
healthy the balls need no reduction. But it
•ometimes happens that from some cause or
other the plants have lost their roots. Too much
voter, in association with imperfect drainage,
will cause this; so will.a^check arising from
deficient bottom heat. .Too much bottom heat
is also hurtful. Checl qLan Agm. - — j_

ih bottern heat
Us of K iU hinds

must be avoided, but with careful management
and proper places to grow them in there is no
difficulty in Pine culture.

When a plant loses its roots from any cause,
it is best to trim them all off, and the bottom

{ >art of the root stem also. Strip off the bottom
eaves, and start the plant again as a sucker in
a smaller pot.

SUCCESSIONAL PLANTS.

With these the chief thing is to encourage
robust growth, and every cultural detail should
be arranged for the furtherance of that object.
The proper regulation of the heat, moisture,
and ventilation—the prime factors in the work—
is of great importance, and some experience is
necessary before these can be so adjusted as to
work together harmoniously. Then again light
and shade—the light of the sun, and the Bhade
with which the burning power of the rays are
extracted—are necessary items to think over, so
as to balance the two and take the greatest
benefit from thecombination. Light is essential to
sturdy growth and fine fruits, therefore the
plant should be near the glass. But on bright
days—when the sun’s power is great—a thin
shade should be spread over that side of the
house on which the sun is shining, about half-past
ten or eleven o’clock, to be taken off again about
three o’clock in the afternoon.

Watering,

Both with syringe and watering-pot, requires
some judgment. On bright days the syringe
may be used freely every afternoon at closing
time, which in hot weather in summer will be
about half-past three or four o’clock. Plants
having fruit blossoming or ripening should not
be syringed. The walls and the surface of the
beds and the paths of the house may be damped
once or twice a day in fine weather, or when¬
ever the atmosphere of the house becomes too
dry. Nothing but the purest rain-water must
be used for syringing, as the foliage of Pines is
very difficult to clean if it once gets dirty. The
watering of the roots of the plants must be done
with great care and judgment. If too much is
given or too little the plants will soon get out
of health and lose colour, and when this happens
it is difficult to get them into good condition
again. If they assume the tint called “ foxy,”
it takes a long time to put on the green
colour, which good cultivators so much wish
to see, and pride themselves upon. Young
growing stock and fast growing successions will
in summa- probably require looking over twice
a week. Every plant may not want water, but
every plant must be examined. Weak liquid
manure should be given at every watering, and
the water may as a rule be poured close to the
base of the plant, some of it falling just within
the axils of the bottom leaves. In the winter the
plants will not require so much water. Once a
week will generally suffice. The water should
be warmed to 80 degs. Special circumstances
in connection with each place may make some
modification of the rules sketched out here
necessary, and no hard and fast lino can or
should be laid down. In order to keep up a
succession of fruiting plants some of the strongest
successions will be potted into their fruiting-
potsat each general shiftingin March, and again
at Midsummer, and again about Michaelmas,
and a similar, or, perhaps, a slightly increased
number of suckers potted. By this means a
constant succession will be kept up. In the
fruiting house the earliest fruiting plants will
be at the warmest end, next will follow those
that are later, and those in flower, and then
will come those just introduced. The same may
be observed in the succession, as when plants
are grouped in this way they are more manage¬
able. For instance, it may occasionally
happen that a certain number of the last
introduced stock may require a check to
induce them to fruit. This is commonly
done by withholding water, at the same
time lifting the plants out of the tan and venti¬
lating freely—by, in short, giving a check. A
short spell of this treatment will generally
cause the fruit to Btart.

In the treatment of the plants which have
missed fruiting at the proper time sometimes a
more drastic remedy is adopted. It may occa¬
sionally happen, when too much moisture has
been used, accompanied, perhaps, by a strong
heat and deficient ventilation, that the
plants run too much to growth, and so be¬
come what are termed in gardener’s phrase¬

ology “stags.” These are generally unprofit¬
able, as undue growth is often but “great cry
aud little wool.” But to do something with
them, and so avoid a total loss, it is best to
cut them off level with the top of the pot,
or only just a little beneath it. Trim
off the bottom leaves and pot firmly in
rough soil, and plunge in a brisk bottom heat.
The majority of the plants so treated will soon

E ush up fruits—not very large ones, perhaps ;

ut still it is better to get a fruit of some kind
off such plants, and let them get it over, and
pass on to the rubbish heap.

Management of Fruiting Plants.

As soon as the fruits are shown, and are passed
into the flowering stage, the fruit stem will
need some means of support. If the fruit is a
large one place a strong stake on each side, and
secure the fruit about midway between them.
If small, false suckers, commonly designated
“gills,’’startuparound the base of the fruit, they
should be destroyed, as they only weaken the
fruit. If ground suckers appear, they also
should be destroyed. Most Pine-growers have
a long-handled tool with an iron blade, fashioned
like a spear, which is thrust into the heart of
the gill or sucker and twisted round, which tho¬
roughly destroys the gill by stopping its growth.

Planting Out.

As a rule, the plants are more under control
when in pots than if planted out. Occasionally
remarkable success follows the adoption of the
planting-out system. But I think it is better
to keep them in pots till they are fit for tho
fruiting pit; then, if a nice genial bed is made,
which is not likely to get too hot, they should
be planted in it 2£ feet apart each way, press¬
ing the soil firmly around them. The usual
routine of syringing and watering should be
followed as if the plants had continued in pots,
though when planted out less water will be
needed. In this planting out system, com¬
monly called the Hamiltonian system, the plants
are not pulled up when the fruits are cut; but
the suckers which start up from the base are
thinned out to two or three, which are then
earthed up, and in tho course of time all these
suckers will bear fruits often of good size and
fine quality. There are situations where I think
Pine growing might still be made to pay, usually
where an abundance of fermenting material can
be had to economise fuel. I have known good
Pines grown without much fire heat, but it in¬
volved a good deal of labour in renewing linings,
&c., and the place always had the appearance
of an immense manure heap ; still, the combina¬
tion of leaves and manure worked well, and was
economical. There is no doubt that with a
set of low light span-noofed pits, built on arches
to give free play to the linings, and an abun¬
dance of fermenting materials always in con¬
dition for use, that Pines might be grown very
cheaply. The control over such structures are
quite as perfect as when heated with hot-water.
Say, for instance, here is a house of plants large
enough to fruit, and we wish to fruit them next
summer; for the next three months we venti¬
late freely, and give just enough water to keep
the colour in the leaves, and we let the bottom
heat sink to 70 degs., and atmospheric to
60 degs. About January, when the days are
lengthening, the linings should be renewed,
raising the bottom heat to 80 degs., and at the
same time increase the atmospheric warmth and
moisture, and give more water at the roots.
This combination of causes rarely fails to start
the fruits. When the plants are grown in pots,
after fresh potting a little extra bottom heat
should be given to stimulate root action.
Suckers tend to weaken the fruits, therefore
only a limited number should be left on each
plant—two or three will generally suffice to
keep up stock. Some kinds—such as the Provi¬
dence, Charlotte Rothschild, and Smooth
Cayenne—do not produce many suckers. Plants
showing fruit should be watered very liberally,
giving liquid manure until the fruits begin to
put on the golden tint, when the watering must
be discontinued. The fruits should be cut be¬
fore they are quite ripe to get the full flavour,
leaving them in the heart of the plant, but
severed from it, for a day or two. I have kept
Pines on the plants in a cool, dry room for
several weeks when they are ripe, and they may
be kept by placing the bottom of the stems in
bottles of water. Plenty of air must be given
when ripening, to give flavour, and also to ripen

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 18, 1884.

304

the suckers, preparatory to their removal. All
pine Btoves heated by hot water should have
troughs fixed on the pipes, which should be
kept full of liquid manure during the time the
fruit is growing, but not when ripening. Some¬
times very handsome fruits are disfigured by
having crowns out of all proportion. This
generally arises from too much moisture in the
atmosphere, often caused by plying the syringe
too freely on the crowns.

Insects.

The Pine Apple plant, like many others, has
its species of cocci or scale. The white scale
is the most troublesome, and is the most diffi¬
cult to deal with. If the plants get badly in¬
fested it will be the cheapest to clear them
out and start afresh with clean plunging mate¬
rials and fresh plants. To make a wash, dis¬
solve 6 oz. of soft soap, or the same quantity of
Gishurst Compound per gallon of water, adding
a wineglassful of paraffin oil to each gallon of
liquid. If the plants are very bad, thev might
be shaken out of their pots and dipped in the
mixture, sufficient having been made for that
purpose in a tub. After dipping, lay them on
their sides to drain and dry. In some cases,
perhaps, a second dipping may be necessary.
Afterwards the plants may have a few of their
bottom leaves removed, and the base trimmed
with a sharp knife, and be repotted in clean
pots and new soil. When the plants are not
badly infested a careful sponging over may
suffice. If the mealy bug gets among the plants
it will give much trouble, but it will yield to
persistent washing in the above mixture. But
the presence of either of these insects among a
collection is evidence of bad culture and weakly
plants.

Temperatures.

From October to Christmas a night tempera¬
ture of 60 degs., dropping down to 55 in the
mornings in cold weather, will be safe, day tem¬
peratures to be 10 degs. higher without sun¬
shine. Fruiting houses should be from 5 degs.
to 10 degs. warmer, with a bottom heat of 75 to
80 degs. With the longer days and rising
temperature of spring, both night and day tem¬
peratures may be increased 5 degs. In summer
a good deal will be done with sun heat, as on
bright afternoons after syringing the thermo¬
meter may rise to 90 or 100 degs. with benefit.

Varieties. —The Queen is the best Pine for
summer. 1 here are several varieties ; but for
a small collection the common variety and the
Moscow Queen will be enough. For winter the
Black Jamaica and Smooth Cayenne are the
best. Charlotte Rothschilds may be added.

E. Hobday.

summer-house, fountain, or large statue is
wished to be seen. Its habit is rather pendu¬
lous, its branches very few and twisted, and the
foliage more vigorous than in the generality of
the Bpecies. The form is usually of a spherical
character, and the height does not exceed 20
feet.

Pterocarya caucasica, a shrub of a massive
character, both in branch and foliage, is a dis¬
tinct subject for any garden. Its foliage par¬
takes of the appearance of that of the Walnut,
but longer, the leaf-rib rivalling in length that
of Ailantus glandulosa. It succeeds best on
elevated knolls or on the slopes of hills, and is
not to be recommended for planting in low-lying
situations or near water, as in such situations it
is liable to injury from excess of cold. Where
it might seem desirable to plant a group of trees
of a near similarity in appearance, and still to
obtain diversity, such as the Gymnocladus cana¬
densis, Ornus europaea, Juglans of various sorts,
such as nigra and cinerea, and Ailantus glan¬
dulosa, this tree-shrub would make a useful
outside member of such a group.

Sylvestris.

Cotoneasters microphylla.— I find this
to be a most useful plant for a great variety of
purposes, and when covered with its tiny
blossoms, or at this season with its load of
berries, it is highly ornamental, covering walls
or rockwork, or even as a single specimen on the
Grass. It is a plant of the easiest culture, and
one which grows freely in almost any kind of
soil. As a wall plant it looks well trained in
almost any form until it attains a considerable
height, when it should be allowed to grow in its
own way; the branches then assume a pendulous
form, and when covered with berries have a fine
appearance. Good strong bushes on Grass, with
the main shoots secured to stout stakes, also look
well.—H.

12088.—Rhododendrons not bloom¬
ing. —Presuming that they are hybrid varieties of
the R. ponticum type, they are sure to flower
annually if they are grown in good soil. Peatsuits
them better than any other kind of soil, although
some kinds of light sandy loam is well adapted
to grow them, but the foliage is not of such a
deep healthy green as those grown in peat.
Most likely the reason why good varieties do
not flower is that they are not growing vigor¬
ously. Give them a mulching of good manure
round the roots, and water them well in dry
I weather.—J. D. E.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

TREES AND 8HRUB&

A FEW CHOICE LAWN TREES.

Juglans regia laciniata. —As an extremely
elegant foliaged tree of moderate size, this may
be recommended to planters with confidence ;
as a group of three or more, or singly, on the
lawn or near the banks of a lake it is quite in
place The foliage, which is light and feathery,
much more so than that of J. regia, is retained
till late in the autumn, and is not so dense that
Grass will not grow under its shade. The form
is decidedly round-headed and somewhat
pendulous. The nuts are rather larger than
those of the common type.

Platanus striata is another round-headed
half-tree of about 20 feet or more in height. Its
foliage is denser, and the whole habit of the
tree more compact than is the case with the
generality of the Planes. If left to itself it
branches out very close to the ground, but it is
best to regulate the height of the stem to about
4 feet or 5 feet previous to forming the crowns.
It contrasts uncommonly well with Coniferous
plants, which will eventually overtop it by
20 feet or more, and, therefore, as a tree for
balancing Coniferous grouping or for forming a
pleasing gradation from the higher to the lower
forms of trees, it is of much service. The bark
is a greyish green in general aspect and streaked.
Although the foliage is dense, yet, owing to the
moderate spread of the branches, Grass grows
very well under its shade.

Gleditscuia CHINENSIS may be usefully em¬
ployed in a position where a partial through
view may be required. for instance, when
some architecturfflobj^c^ au ^pavilion,

Early Peas. —Of all vegetables grown
nothing takes the place of good Peas ; therefore
it behoves us to sow the best varieties and at
the proper time. We sow our first crop early
in November on a sheltered south border dug
slightly, and manured a short time before
so wing. We draw the drills 3 inches deep, coat
the seed with red-lead, and sow thioker than
in spring sowing. Immediately they can be
seen above ground cover them 1 inch deep with
coal ash, ana when they get through that draw
the earth up to each side of them and stake
them at once, sticking pieces of Bracken or
Fir branches in each side. It is not the frost
that kills Peas, but the dry March winds that
cut them to pieces. The best variety for this
season’s sowing is Earliest of All, a blue marrow
with hard round seed that does not rot in the
ground. I always sow at the same time a few
rows of my old friend William First, which
makes a suitable succession.—R. Gilbert,
Burghley .

Profitable Tomato growing.— Of all
departments of gardening probably none is more
profitable than the Tomato, when carried on in
a sufficiently large scale, and by properly
qualified persons. Almost any kind of house
may be made to answer the purpose, but a low
span-roofed one running north and south, with
tne eaves of the house reaching to within a foot
or 18 inches of the ground, with ventilators
along each side close to the ground and the
apex, is undoubtedly the best for the purpose.
It should be about 14 feet wide, 9 feet high-
angle of roof about 46 degs., and it should nave
a 10-foot rafter. It should be permanently
wired, as for vines, about 12 inches under the
I glass. The heating power for such a house need

not be very large ; a flow and return of 4-bch
pipes on each side, within 2 inches of the out¬
side walls, and opposite the ventilators, would
be amply sufficient, and so situated would warm
the admitted air and promote its circulation
within the house at times when it would be
impossible to obtain it otherwise. To obtain
the fruit at a time when it would fetch the best
price in the market, strong plants should be
planted early in the month of November; they
would be in full bearing in the early spring
months when good Tomatoes would fetch from
2s. to 38. a pound, and with careful treatment,
abundance of manure, both liquid and solid,
they would continue to produce good fruit for
six or eight months without replanting. Now,
supposing such a house as we have shortly
described, 100 feet long, to be planted and well
managed, we reckon it would produce during
a year more than two tons of fruit, the price of
which would vary from 3a. to 3d. a pound, the
latter price only being obtained in September
and October, when the bulk of the fruit should
be gone. From such a house it may safely be
predicted that the fruit would fetch an average
price of lOd. per pound, which for two tons
would be about £185. The necessary fuel for
such a house would cost about £10 manure, £5 ;
labour in attending and packing, £40 (one man
would very well manage two such houses if he
had nothing else to do); rent of land, £5; interest
on building, £10 ; total expenditure, £70; leaving
a balance of £115. This may appear to many
to be incredible, but the calculations are founded
on facts. What do our great growers say to it ?
If they say anything, they will say, “It cannot
be done,” but until they point out in what
respect our calculations are wrong, we shall
have faith that they are right, and that Grape
growing is out of the field when compared with
Tomato growing.— Jersey Gardener.

DESTROYING INSECTS.

This is best done in the case of evergreens when
the leaves are hard and matured and the bads
less forward than they will be later on. Daring
such conditions much stronger applications of
insecticide can be used than when the leaves are
soft and growing. Mealy bug on vines should
be attacked as soon as the leaves are off—the
sooner after that the better, as, the buds being
quite dormant, there is no danger of injuring
them in the way that would be likely to happen
further on when they have moved ever so little.

The same holds good with Peaches; many a case
has occurred where the ensuing season’s crop of
this fruit has been destroyed or injured by
dressing the trees with some or other of the
mixtures used ; whereas, if the work had been
done as soon as the leaves were off no mischief
would have ensued. The details given by
correspondents of what has been accomplished
by the use of the coal tar mixture on vines
suffering from mealy bug go to confirm that
which has been effected by others who have
adopted this remedy. In some cases with which
I am acquainted, where the mixture has been
tried, the bugs have not been completely de¬
stroyed ; nor is this to be wondered at when one
considers the difficulty of getting at them when
they have got possession of the wood and brick¬
work, to say nothing about the difference in
thoroughly or imperfectly applying the dressing.

The same thing sometimes happens in the case
of using paraffin and water. Some who have
tried this mixture never seem to have realised
the powerful character of the oil, the persis¬
tent way in which it floats on the surface of the
water, unless forcibly and continually kept |
stirred whilst being used, preventing it from
taking effect. Then, in addition to mistakes
in this way, some who have used paraffin have
acted on the principle that if a weak applies- $
tion was good, a stronger must be better, *

and have used too much of the oil, and so injured >

their plants. Here, for example, is a case t
of this kind. An acquaintance of mine, who t;
grows probably four times as many Gardenias as t|
anyone else, dressed his plants with the oil when
it was first recommended. The application was *|
incautiously carried out, and the plants were p
injured so that he has been since deterred from L
trying it, although scoras of other growers use L
the mixture continually with perfect success, |i|
thereby saving labour to an extent that few I||
can understand unless they have had the in-1
tolerable pest to deal with in a largo collection I

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN P

Oct. 18, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

395

of plant*. Beyond the saving of labour, too,
there is an equally important gain in the condi¬
tion of the plants when the insect is destroyed
outright, or even kept down, the state of the
foliage and the flowers produced being vastly
better than is possible where continuous spong¬
ing and brushing have to be practised. So it is
with

Vines affected with bug. To have the
fruit in a condition at all presentable, cleaning
by hand is resorted to, and the appearance of
the fruit is spoilt. What gardeners have now
to contend with in the shape of insects on flower¬
ing and foliage plants, and equally so on fruits
grown nnder glass, is a very different affair from
what it was within my recollection, not alone as
regards the quantities of plants and fruits so
grown at the present day, but owing to the fact
that go where one will, and however much glass
there happens to be, so much is required that,
with the exception of very few places, the houses
appropriated to fruit growing are more or less
occupied with plants at some time in the year,
so as to make it impossible to keep whatever
insects the plants are affected with from getting
on the vines or other fruits thus brought in con¬
tact with them. The result of this is that the
work of keeping down the various pests is such
that there is seldom labour enough to cope with
it successfully. As a means of greatly reducing
the work in keeping down

Bug and scale, the worst pests that affect
plants grown under glass, paraffin has turned
out an immense boon, as with it an intelligent
hand will do more in an hour than could be
effected in a day by spon^iag and brushing.
But in using it, its powerful nature should never
be forgotten. It must not be applied too strong,
or without the precaution of keeping it con¬
tinually stirred. The crudest, least pure oil,
being heavier and less inclined to float on the
water than the best, is preferable. In most
cases a wineglassful to a gallon of water will be
found strong enough to kill any insects that
affect plants. To free woodwork from bug
it should be used without any mixture of water,
brushing the whole over, ironwork included,
similar to painting, giving it two coats and get¬
ting it well into every crack, which should after¬
wards be stopped with putty, and the whole
well painted. If the work is done as it
should and can be, there will be neither
insects nor eggs left, and if in addition the plan
is followed of lime-washing the brickwork with
a plentiful addition of paraffin to the lime-wash,
and the joints, crevices, and other harbouring
places stopped, I should have little doubts about
a perfect riddance being effected. With vines
or Peaches I should hesitate before applying
paraffin, although it has been used by some
without any mischief resulting, but in many
more cases it has done serious harm, very dif¬
ferent from that which follows from the

Tar and clay paint where reasonable care
is used ; the tar, although destructive to plant
life if employed too strong, being thick is not
so penetrating, consequently it does not soak in
so as to reach the living inner bark in the way
paraffin does. If the senseless practice of
scraping the outer bark off vines, still some¬
times practised, is followed until the green inner
covering is visible, even a less potent material
than the tar mixture would do harm ; in such
case a moderate dressing of the ordinary clay
paint with sulphur in it, and without which
some think they would not get a crop, will do
injury. _ T. B.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(miscellaneous.)

12037.— Insects on Pear trees.— From
the description I imagine the insect to be the
Pear tree blister moth (Tinea clerekella). This
is described in “ Garden Pests ” as a small moth
which appears early in May, and lays its eggs
on the leaves. The moment they are hatched,
the larvae penetrate through the cuticle or skin
of the leaves, and feed on the internal cellular
tissue with perfect safety from any dressing.
The moths should be destroyed, as well as all
dead and withered loaves, in autumn; for
w hen full grown the maggot spins a cocoon and
lets itself down to the ground, and mostly
makes itself a bed among the dead or dying
leaves ; so that if those* are collected and

burned, [ 3 j tf 0ster

moth will also be destroyed. This insect is
very injurious, and by causing blisters on the
leaves totally deranges their functions, and
seriously injures the health and undermines the
strength of the trees.— Celer et And ax.

12099.— Garden walks. —The best course
will be to break the walks well up, and get all the
weeds out possible. Take some of the old soil
away, and fill in with dry builders’ rubbish,
ashes, or rough gravel stones, then finer gravel
to the necessary level, but keeping the path
slightly higher in the middle, covering with a
coat of finely-sifted gravel for the surface.
Jersey gravel may be got in some localities
cheaply. Gravel, with a little lime and cement
or burnt brick clay earth, with or without
cement, lime, or tar, will make a good surface,
free from weeds.—J. P. Law.

12041. — Bulbs.— All that you can do now is to take up
the bulbs and lay them in boxes or pots in damp earth
until they can again be planted. Had they been lifted
during the summer when in a complete state of rest they
might have t>een kept through the winter. Now a change
is already taking place in them, so that if dried off they
would be sure to suffer a diminution of vital power, and
would either flower weakly or not at all.—J. C. B.

12081.—Felt for hot-water pipes.—"J. T.” will
find a waterproof heat-retaining composition a better
covering than felt for underground hot pipe. He can get
both at the Burton on-Trent composition works.—R. M.

12107.— Wasps nests.— The best way of destroying
these insects i9 with methylated chloroform or cyanide of
potassium. One or two tablespoonfuls of the latter quietly
put into the entrance of the nest will not Interfere with their
entrance, and in twenty-four hours they will all be dead.
The chloroform must be applied at night. Petroleum
poured in and then ignited is good, but the potassium is
the best.—J. P. Law.

12101.— Trellis work —In answer to " E. M. P.,’’
rough trellis work can be bought at Whiteley's. I do not
exactly remember the price, but it is very cheap.— Mat.

Names Of fruit. —Leeford.— We have failed to ascer¬
tain the name of your Apple.- Mnj.-Gen. Moody.— 1,

Beaufln; 2, Holland Pippin ; 8, Dr. Harvey ; 4, Cannot

name.- Peer Daimay.—l, Kerry Pippin ; 2, Golden

Knob ; 3, Manks Codlin ; 4, Golden Pippin.- G. TP. E. —

I. Court Pendu Plat; 2, Stirling Castle.- M. D. C. —

Apple not known ; Pear too much decayed.- K. if.—1,

Wellington ; 3, Fcarn’s Pippin ; 4, Court Pendu Plat-

J. W. AT.—2 and 3, Yorkshire Beauty: 4, Dumelow’s Seed¬
ling.- Scot .—Appears to be a local sort.- H. Taylor.

—3, Warner’s KiDg. -5. Bvqkland.—l, Cellini; 2, Cox’s

Orange Pippin ; 3, Warner’s King.- L. M. K.—l , Mother

Apple.-Af. D.—l, Pott’s Seedling; 2, Emperor Alex¬

ander ; 4, Catehead. F. Sale.—2, Cellini. G. Daw.—

Not known.- S. W. S.— 1, Beurre Clairgeau.- Anon

(three large green Pears).—Pear Beurre Bachelier.-

Avon.— 1, Ducksbill ; 2, Cockle Pippin.- W. H.— 4, King

Pippin.-if. T. Danebury.—1, Beurrd B osc ; 2, Duchesso

d’Angoul^me; 3, Pitmaston Duchess (small); 4 Beurre

Diel.- X. Y.Z .—None of your fruits are in a Tit condition

for naming.- P. M. N.—b, Catehead.- C. D.—l. Blen¬

heim Pippin ; 2. King Pippin ; Pear appears to be Iiacon’s

Incomparable, but was too much decayed for naming.-

G. J. B. and other senders of fruit will be answered next
week.

Names Of plants.— G. Fyfe (Tedburgh).—Cacalia

reticulata. —■— R. H. L. — Tropoeolum speciosnm.-

Derrick.— Adiantum gracillimum ; Hortus Aster ericoides.

- B. Addy.—l, Passiflora cmrulea (variety); 2, Euony-

mus latifolius.- S. S. Oldham.— 1. Selaginella apus ; 2,

Justicia carnea; 3, Gymnostachyllum Pearcei ; 4, S.

Mertensi.-if. Taylor.— 1, Sedum Sieboldi ; 2, Iresine

Herbsti ; 3, Diplacus glutinosus.- A. F. C.—l, Nephro-

lepis exaltata; 2, Onychium japonicum ; S, Anthericum

comosum variepatum ; 4, Calliopsis Atkinsoni.- T.

Richardson. —1, Boussingaultia baselloides ; 2, Asplenium

bulbiferum ; 8^ Pteris tremula ; 4, Eupatorium Fraseri-

C. A. M .— 1, Nicotiana glauca ; 2, Aster argophyllus. -

Muss Mason. —Euonymus europeeus.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.-^// communications

for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the pajwr only and addressed to the Editor. J etters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is retpuired, in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper owing to the necessity of
Gardeniku going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication , it is not possible to insert queries and com-
m unications the week they are received. Queries not answered
should be sent to vs again.

Naming plants or fruit.— Four plants, fruits, or
flowers only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens are sent. We do not undertake to
name varieties of florists' flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
name should always accompany the parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
specimens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12150.—Fuchsia procumbens.— I should be glad of
a description of the plant Fuchsia procumbens.—S. E. G.

12151.—Pruning Oleanders — I have a tall Oleander
and want to cut it down. When can I do this safely, and
how far will it bear pruning ?— S. E. G.

12152. - Treatment of Crassulas. —Will some
reader kindly detail the treatment for Crassulas?—S. E. G.

12153.— Plan ting Roses-—I wanttoplantout-of-d^ors
some Roses on their own roots. When is the best lime

the plants being only from 10 inches to 15 inches high 1—
S. E G.

12164.—Cherry blossoms In October.— What ex¬
planation can be given of the following ? About the middle
of August a wild Cherry stock having several small
branches was budded with buds from a fruitiul Cherry
tree (sort not known) growing near. Out of the eight buds
inserted six are apparently growing ; and cne of them has
developed leaves, and isnow (October 4tb) showing a bunch
of fully-expanded blossoms. Of c#urs<s the season is much
too far advanced to allow fruit to be expected, hut I should
like to know if this is not a very strange circumstance, as
none of my gardening friends can call to mind ever seeing
or hearing of a similar one. Also why did one bud only
buret into bloom while the others show no signs of doing
so, and will the buds, although inserted very late in the
year, be likely to thrive ?— Sidney, Wikot, Wilts.

12155. — Platyloma rotundlfolia. — Will anvone
tell me what kind of treatment is required to grow Platy¬
loma rotundifolia, and If it should be grown in Fern-case ?
-W. H. N.

12156.— Cactus flowering. — A cream-coloured
Cactus has Just bloomed. In previous years it ha 9 closed
in one night, but I think it bloomed then in July, this
time we brought it into the house, and the second day, to
our surprise, the flower was almost as good as on the first
day ; in the night the hall was filled with the perfume. We
have never experienced this before, and I should be glad
any of your readers could throw some light on the subject.
The calyx is deep brown, ranging through yellows, till the
lovely cream petals arc reached, a very handsome flower
between 2 inches and 10 inches across.—S. E. G.

12157 — Ants’ eggs.— Where can I buy ants’ eggs in
London.—J. S.

12158.- Gardening for profit.— Could anyone in
form mo whether a garden of about three aci cs, one-third
of which is a flower garden, could be made sufficiently
profitable to pay the working expenses of the whole ?—A.

12169.—Manure for herbaceous borders.—It
was recommended some weeks ago in Garden in q that her¬
baceous borders should be covered with manure during the
winter. Could anyone tell me of an}’ pulverised manure
which I could use, and which would not have the un¬
sightly effect of common manure, as my herbaceous border
is in full sight of the drawing-room windows?—L. F. D.

12160.—Bamboo.—I have seen Baml>oos growing out-
of-door on the Continent, and shall be glad to hear if they
will do so in this country, sav in Cheshire. What is the

name of the beet kind, and what treatment is required ?_

J. P.

12161.—Pampas Grass.—I shall be obliged for any
information about the cultivation of PampasGrass. When
should the plants be planted, and in what kind of soil ?—

12162.— Plants lor Australia. -Being about to leavo
this country for Australia I feci sad to leave my rather
numerous family of plants behind me. It consists of
KoBes, Gladioli, Dahlias, Auriculas, Irises (German), Nar-
cisBi, Crocuses, Anemones, Liliuras, Ranunculi, Pan-
cratiums, Babianas, Ixias, Sparsxis, Tritonias, tree and
herbaceous Pwonies, Funkias, Scillas, and Chionodoxaf.
Now, to tako such a family as this with me would be a
great consolation to me when I got there, but would I sue-
ceed in growing them—would all or any succeed ? How
can I pack them for the voyage, they will be in packing
case fully seven w eeks ? Any advice on the above will be
acceptable and thankfully received.—O. P. Q.

POULTRY.

Mixed corn for poultry.— “C. C.”—
We always recommend good mixed corn for
fowls, although many condemn it on the plea
that the birds never get an entire change of
diet, and that as a consequence their appetites
fail. We have never found such to be the case.
One great evil is avoided by using mixed com
—viz., the disastrous effects often produced by
a sudden change of diet. Diarrhoea and crop
binding are often to be traced solely to this.
Barley should always form the staple hard food.
A good mixture is made by mixing 6 parts
barley, 2 parts maize, 2 parts wheat; the latter
two may be substituted occasionally by rice,
buckwheat, peas, or oats. There has arisen
much controversy respecting the latter as a
food for fowls. We have no hesitation in
saying that a small quantity proves mest
beneficial, especially with growing stock,
and if the oats be a good heavy sample,
properly bruised through a machine, and well
scalded, there is no finer soft food for chicken.
Adult fowls, of course, can dispense with the
bruising, and have the oats thrown them whole.
No hard food Bhould be soaked previous to being
given to the fowls, and you have taken wrong
advice. It means simply swelling the grain and
the crops of the birds with a quantity of useless
water. It is always best to mix the com your¬
self ; most of the so-called “ poultry mixtures,”
as Bold by com dealers, consists of inferior, and,
in most cases, odd lots of cheap com, containing
a large percentage of dust and foreign matter—
in fact, cheap, but nasty. —Andalusian.

Hen wasting away.— “Fred.”—If there
be no signs of disease about your Andalusian
hen we should say it is a clear case of consump¬
tion,! Arising, no doubt, from a want of stamina,
brought jft^ib^ fjoyi tp^ „c|op^ tjrjeediijg from

396

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 18, 1884.

birds related to each other. Another cause may
lie in the unwholesomeness of the run and roost¬
ing house, which should receive immediate atten¬
tion ; or it may be that your birds are over or not
properly fed. From your observation that in
your run the Andalusians are the only birds
affected, and that those of another sort keep in
good health, we are inclined to attribute it to
the first-mentioned reason. Is your run exposed
or damp? because, although Andalusians are
not very delicate, yet they are not so robust as
some that we could mention. If you are con¬
tinually having hens of this variety going wrong,
why do you lceep them ? It is evident the
situation does not suit them, and we should
strongly advise you to stick to the other breed,
which you do not name, as being more adapted
to your locality.— Andalusian.

Fertility of eggs.— “W. W. G.”—One
male bird to every dozen hens is quite sufficient,
where the birds enjov full liberty, to ensure a
good proportion of fertile eggs, providing that
the cocks are in full health and vigour. It
sometimes happens, more especially with pure
and highly bred birds, that the cocks from their
great attention to the hens do not get sufficient
food. They should be felt at night, and if not
plump in the breast and healthy looking about
the face and comb, something is the matter.
They should be fed once a day by themselves on
the best of food, with meat, and a little stimu¬
lating spice. In confinement six hens are suffi¬
cient for one cock bird—in fact, with Asiatic
breeds such as the Brahma and Cochin, four to
one is quite enough. We always consider two-
year-old cock birds the best, that is to say, for
next year use those hatched early in 1883.
Generally speaking chicken follow more after
the cock than the hen, so too much stress cannot
be laid on the importance of having a good stock
male bird.— Andalusian.

AQUARIA.

Light for aquarium. —I am afraid “ Aber-
tame’s ” aquarium, although getting plenty of
light, is not placed sufficiently close to a window.
No change of water is required, but the loss by
evaporation should be occasionally supplied.
The light necessary is soon proved by the plants
not rotting off at the roots. Most aquarium
plants grow spindly in confinement, with one
grand exception—Anacharis alsinastrum, which,
placed in full window light, will thrive and
grow well. On reconstruction try the plant
named, which is now naturalised in England,
and found in ponds and ditches. It will grow
either floating or sunk. The fewer live stock
the better. Sand scratches the glass in clean¬
ing. Weak acid is the proper remedy.—F. M.
Kenderdink, Momingside , Old Trafford, Man¬
chester.

Sticklebacks hatching in aquarium.
—I have frequently had sticklebacks hatch their
eggs in my aquarium, but the male fish invari¬
ably kills all the others that are with him. I
find it the least cruel plan to get the nest out
of the stream, catch the stickleback, and put
him with the nest in the aquarium. He will
immediately begin to rebuild the nest, and
watch it, fanning the water till the eggs hatch.
The nests may easily be run at the bottom of any
shallow’ stream frequented by sticklebacks, they
look like small lobs in thesand; and, by patiently
watching a short time, the male stickleback may
be seen hovering over it, fanning the water, and
occasionally putting his nose in the hole of the
nest. He may easily be taken in a small hand net
held near the nest, as, if he is frightened away
at first, he is sure to come back to it. After he
is captured the nest can be taken by digging
the net down under it. He is not particular
about having his own nest, but will take ano¬
ther, and hatch the eggs as w f ell as if it W’ere
his own. I never yet succeeded in rearing the
young ones, either with the parent or after
taking him away. Of course the nests can only
be found in the spring and early summer.—
S. M. M.

Sticklebacks. —In answer to “J. F.,
Chesterfield,” respecting ten-spined sticklebacks,
and whore to obtain them, I beg to say that in
this neighbourhood (West Norfolk) they are
vory plentiful, and are as frequently met with
as the three-spined. I presume there are no
means of conveying ^them by peat, but if

Digitized by CjQi >5

“ J. F.” or any of his friends are visiting this
part, if they will call upon me, I will endeavour to
help them to obtain some.—W. J. Stanton,
King's Lynn.

HOUSEHOLD.

Siberian crabs.— One quart of water,
2.i lb. of loaf sugar, one small lemon, crab
apples. Put 2 lb. of loaf sugar into a preserving
pan with the peel of a lemon and a quart of
water, and boil it until it becomes a thin syrup.
Take some fine red crab apples with their stalks
on, just prick them with a needle, and put them
into the syrup. When you see the skins begin
to crack, take them carefully out and drain them
separately on a dish ; add the remainder of the
sugar to the syrup, and again boil it up. Put
the crabs into wide-mouthed bottles or jars.
When the syrup is cool, pour it over them, and
tie the jars tightly over.—Loo.

Apple-pie.— One pound flour, half-a-pound
lard or butter, one tablespoonful baking powder,
a pinch of salt, apples, sugar, a few cloves,
milk, or water. Pare the apples and cut them
into slices. Then prepare the paste by mixing
the flour, baking powder, salt, together with a
dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar, then rub in
about a quarter of the lard or butter and mix
into a smooth paste with milk or water ; next
roll out into a thin cake and put on the lard in
dabs all over, fold into a square and roll out
again, and so on, until the lard is used up.
Then roll out about a quarter of an inch thick,
place the pie-dish mouth downwards on the

f iaste, cut all round it with a knife, to make a
id for the pie. Cut the paste round the dish
into strip an inch or more wide, wet the edge
of the pie-dish to make the paste adhere, and
place the strips of paste all round the edge,
pressing them to the dish. Put in the apples,
with sufficient sugar to sweeten properly, and a
few cloves, if liked ; pour a little water in, and
wet tho paste on the edge of the dish, place the
lid over all, pressing it all round. Now cut
away the superfluous paste, and cut the pie with
a knife all round the edge, make a hole in tho
centre to allow the steam to escape, and bake
in a moderate oven until the apples are done.—
W. B.

pHEAP COLLECTION of HARDY PLANTS.

U —100 for 5 r. 6d. free, containing Exhibition Perennial
Phloxes, 4 varieties: double Daisies, 6 varieties; fancy
Pansies, 4 varieties: Columbines, 3 varieties, including Chry-
santha ; Pinks, 2 varieties ; Sweet Violets, double and single ;
Wallflowers, Polyanthus, 8weet Williams, Sweet Rockots,
Foxglove*, ITonesty, Snapdragons, Auriculas, Mimulus,
Myosotis, and Saxifrages ; half quantity, 2s. 9d. All good
strong plants, to flower next season. Satisfaction guaranteed.
Marechal Kiel Roses, good strong plants, Is. 3d. each.
Maiden-hair Ferns, very large, from 6-inch pots, 1 b. each;
9s. dor.. ; all free.-EDWARD MARGERKSON, Florist,
B arlow, Chesterfield .__

HYACINTHS.

Cheapest in the trade. Fine Bulbs, guaranteed to give
satisfaction. For Bedding, splendid mixed, double and
single, all colours, Is. 6d. per doz.; ditto, separate, any colour,
named, 2s. per doz. Finest bulbs for i>ot or glass culture, all
colours, mixed or separate, Bingle or double, 3«. per doz Extra
large bulbs. 3s. 6d. doz. Any quantity supplied. All carriage
free. Narotssus poeticus, 4d. doz. Crocuses, any colour, Is. 3d.
per 100. Tulips, all colours, mixed, single and double, 4d. doz.
Carriage free u sent with Hyacinths. Cash with order. Selec¬
tions left to me may be relied on for a good assortment. -
JOHN HISCOOK, 13, Florence-road. New Cross, London, S.E.

E GG PLUMS ! EGG PLUMS ’.—Good stock

of tho above variety from 6s. to 12s. por dozen.—J.
MASTERS, Market Gardener, Evesham. Tho Egg Plum is
the hardiest, most prolific, and best for culinary purposes that
is grown. Thousands of bushels have been grown this season
in this district when other varietiea have failed._

JERSEY

ROSE TREES
FRUIT TREES

Standard Roses, 12s. doz., dwarfs, 9s. doz.

Dwarf Pears and Apples, 18s. doz., trained, 24s. doz.
All carriage paid to London. Write for catalogue to
JOSHUA LE CORNU & SON. Queen s Road, Jersey.

ROSE S-

A GRAND COLLECTION; rock work shrubs,

all the best; standard ornamental trees, all the best;
hardy climbers, a splendid collection ; hardy florists' flowers,
including Carnations. Proonies, Violets, Hollyhocks.

New general Autumn Catalogue of the above and many
other things may be had gratis and post freeupon application.
—T. S WARE, Hale Farm, Nurseries, Tottenham. London.

COMTE BRAZZA’S

fJEW double white VIOLET—White Neapoli-

■D* tan—very large, pure white, sweotljrtcented flowers.
Without question tho flnos*. Violet in cultivation.—For full de¬
scription see new catalogue of Roses, Trees, Shrubs, and
Florist*’ Flowers, free on application to

THOMAS t>. WARE.

Hale Farm Nursery, Tottenham, London.

WM. CLIBRAN & SON,

The Oldfield Nurseries ,

ALTRINCHAM, CHESHIRE.

(8 miles from, Manchester.) Established 1869.

Near 50 Acres of splendid Nursery Stock, and 35,000 feet
_ of Glass Structures. _

New Catalogue for Autumn of 1884

Of the Best Bulbs, Roses, Fruit Trees, Herbaceous
Plants, Stove, Greenhouse, and Hardy Plants
_ of all descriptions, post free. _

BULB S. BUL BS. BULBS.

For the Indoor Garden.

Hyacinths, the finest for pots or glasses, all named, and
of the choicest quality, 6s. doz.

Tulips, the most showy and best forcing varieties, Is.

and Is. 6d. do*., 7s. to 10s. 100.

Polyanthus Narcissus, easily forced, named sorts,

Is. 6d. doz.

Splrceas. Dielytras, Lily of Valley, in best forcing
condition, at lowest prices. See Catalogue. Our impor¬
tations of theso weigh about 5 Tons. From this an
idea may be formed of the large trade we do in them .

PLANTS FOR THE GREENHOUSE, &c.

Chrysanthemums, the finest named sorts, in 6-inch
pots, for blooming thiB season, 9s. and 12 b. doz

Primulas, Cinerarias, 6s. doz.

Cyclamens, Bouvardias, Solanums, Tree Car¬
nations, 12s. and 18s. doz.

Ericas, Epacris, Azaleas (Indian, Ghent, or Mollis).
Roses in pots, for forcing. 18s. and 24s. doz.

All the above are fine flowering Plants.

Soft and Hard Wooded Plants of all kinds at most
moderate prices in large or small quantities.
Calceolarias, horbaceous, of a splendid strain,

Is. 6d. doz., 10s. p er 100, from stores. _

SPRING FLOWERS for OUTDOORS.

Hyacinths, border, in separate colours, 2s. 6d. doz.,
16s. 100.

Tulips, doublo or single, named, 9d. and la. doz.,

5s. and 6s. 100.

Tulips, double or single, mixed, 6i. doz., 3s. 100.
Croons and Snowdrops, is. 6d. and 2s. 100.
Narcissus, in 35 of the finest sorts, as per catalogue.

„ ordinary sorts, to name, 3a. 6d. to5s. per 100.

Miscellaneous Bulbs of all kinds (such as Are
frequently offered in Garpkntnq with temptingdescrip-
tions at about 50 per cent, above value), of the finest
quality, at moderate prices. See catalogue.
Wallflowers, rod or yellow, Sweet Williams, Canter
bury Bells, Sileno compacta. Polyanthus, Primrose* of
most beautiful colours, Arabis alpina, Aubrietias,
Alyssum saxatile, Is. per doz., 7s. per 100, in lanp,
line plants, or, to customers desirous of small plants,
we offer plants drawn from seed bods at Is. por 100.
Hepatlcaa, double Primroses, 3s. 6d. doz.

Christmas Roses, all sizes, 2s. 6d., 4s., 6«., iK.lda doz.

500 fine Spring-flowering Plants for 25s.
Conifers, for window boxes and for wintor bods,9tol8 in.

high, 4s. to 6s doz., 30s. to 40s. per 100.

Horbaceous plants (this is the best time to plant), 12
fine sorts 3s., 50 varieties 12s. 6d., 100 varieties30s„ all
named kinds ; distinct and beautiful.

Phloxes, the finest English and Continental kinds, one
year old, Ss. 6d., two years old 6s doz.

Potentillas, Pyrethmms, 5s. doz.

Delphiniums, Preonias, 8s. doz.

All these are of the finest kinds knoim.. We discard inferior
and add the best new sorts to our stock annually.
Carnations and Picotcos, to name, 6s. doz.

Lilies, 3a and 6a. doz. See Catalogue. _

ROSES. ROSES^ ROSES.

These are a special article with us, and as we grow all our
plants, and do not rely on plants bought In, we arc
ablo to supply them in tho freshest and best possible
condition to ensure good growth and bloom. Special
selections made for exhibition or for garden purpose*.
Then tide r narked pri res are for our select ion ofgoodruvncd kiwis
Hybrid Perpctuals, 0s. doz., 45*. 100.

Teas and Noisettes, 12s. and 15s. doz.

Moss Roses, 7s. 6d. doz.

Hardy Climbing Roses (quick growers), 6s. doz.

For other sorts, including tine striped Roses, the beautifm
single Japan Roses, extra sized climbers, <fcc.,

see Catalogue. ______

FRUIT TREES. FRUIT TREES.

In all the Best Cropping Varieties.
Apples, Pears, and Cherries, dwarf-trained, good
trees, 15s. and 18s. per doz.

Pears, pyramid, 40s. and 50s. per 100; good fruitin?

trees, 75s. and 100s. per 100; Maidens, 30e. per 100.
Apples, Pyramid, 40s., 50s„ and 75s. per 100.

Cherries, dwarf-trained Morelloand May Duke, 15s. and
18s. per doz.

Currants, red and black, of sorts to name, 8s., 10 s.,*nd
12s. per 100.

Raspberries, Fillbasket, 6s. per 100.

Shrubs, deciduous, 12s. and 15s. per 100, good plants.
Heaths, hardy, sorts to namo, 15s. per 100.

Thorns, double and single, of sorts, standards, and pyra¬
mids, 50s. and 75s. per 100, 9s. and 12s. doz.

Spiraea Palmata, fine forcing clumps, 10s., 15s., and
20s. per 100

Auoubas, well-coloured, for boxes, pots, &c., 6 to 9 in.,
168. per 100; 9 to 12 in., 20s. per 100.

Oval-leaved Privet, 4s. to 12s. per 100.

Thorn Quicks, 15s. to SOs. per 1,000.

Forest Trees, in great variety, 50s. to 100s. per 100 .
American Plants, many sorts, 6s. and 9s. per doz.
Climbing Plants, in great variety,6s., Ps.,and 12s. doz.
Strawberries, in 40 of the best kinds. Strong runners
from ground, 3s. 100 ; plants in 2$-in. pots, 12s. 6d.
100; ditto for forcing, in 6-in. pots, 25s. per 100.
Strawberries.— A collection of 500, in 20 sorts, or 10
sorts, as preferred, for 12s. 6d.

Visitors Cordially Invited.

WM CLIBRAN & BON, The Oldfield Nurseries,

Altrthcham miles from Manchester).

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

OCTOBER 25, 1884.

No. 294.

stronger shoots, but they did not, as a rule,
flower so freely as those that were kept in pots
plunged to or over the rim. The leaves on
both sets of plants were a sight to see, so large
and clean. The plants also grew with extra¬
ordinary vigour. So much was this the case
that if the shoots were pegged down when the

C lants were placed in the open air, almost every
ud would break into a vigorous shoot, so that
thinning was necessary to prevent them growing
into a perfect thicket.

Soil and potting. —As to compost, the ordi¬
nary soil of the kitchen garden, with the addi¬
tion of a little leaf-mould and sand, was
all the Linums had. And there are a few
better composts for these plants, either in or
out of pots, than one of two-thirds fibry loam
and one of leaf-mould, with a fair percentage of
gritty silver sand. By the first of October at
the latest, planted-out Linums should be potted
up, left with the ball intact as much
as possible, and placed in 8-inch or
10-inch pots, according to the size of
the plant, taking care not to overpot
them. Place them in a close pit for
a few days till the roots get hold of
the soil in the pots, then give abund¬
ance of air, or draw the lights off if
the weather be mild. As soon as
the plants have taken to the pots
place them on a conservatory or
greenhouse shelf, and treat them the
same as other plants in the house.
They flower best in a temperature
ranging from 45 degs. to 50 degs.,
and plants thus grown seem all
flower. They must not be over-
watered, neither must they be allowed

I to become dry nor placed in a
draught, or too near to hot-water
pipes. Anything that gives them a
severe check not only mars the
beauty of the leaves or causes them
to fall off, but also seems to invite
red spider to fasten and feed on the
leaves. Of course those grown in
pots may be lifted in October and
go straight on to the greenhouse
stage or window garden. In colder
>ij localities almost, but not quite, such
good results may be obtained by grow¬
ing the Linums in col 1 frames cither
in pots or planted out. Through
the earlier period of their growth the
frames should be shut down close
early in the afternoon, after a heavy
overhead syringing ; while from the
middle of July and all through
August to the middle of September
advantage should be taken of every
^ fine day to draw the lights clean off

the plants. Some also keep the lights
on by day, and throw a mat over the
glass to exclude the sun, and draw
I them off at night to give the plants the benefit
of the night dews.

Good results maybe obtained with old plants,
and almost equally good by throwing away all
the plants after flowering and starting with cut¬
tings. These, started say in January or February,
and forced on in heat, may be grown into fine
material for 6-inch or 8-inch pots by October.
For the greenhouse shelf perhaps Linums never
1 look better than in 6-incli pots, smothered with
bloom and with foliage large and fresh, free from
red spider or thrips.—D. T.

THE WATER CALTROPS.

Trapa natans, the subject of the annexed
illustration, is an interesting plant for the indoor
aquarium, or for a warm tank out-of-doors. At
GL&snevin I have seen it doing well outside
the Victoria House, where it had the advantage
of growing in water which came from the tank
inside. Without such an advantage as this it
grows best under glass in our climate; it merely
requires a tub of water with soil at the bottom,
which may conveniently stand on a stage in
the greenhouse, or even in a stove. Being an
annual it is raised every year from seed, which,
unfortunately, cannot always be obtained alive,
and I do not remember to have heard that it
has ever been ripened in Britain. The character
of this plant is well shown by the accompany¬
ing illustration, but it branches and spreads '
near the surface of the water, upon which here
and there it produces its pretty float¬
ing rosettes of leaves, each one of the
latter with & swollen stalk, by means
of which to a great extent buoyancy
is secured. Its flowers are incon-
spicuou?, but the singular appearance
of the plant is sufficient to make it
always attractive. Its fruits are very
remarkable; those of this species
have been compared to the spiked
iron instruments used in ancient
warfare for strewing on the ground
in order to impede the progress of
the enemy, hence the name Water
Caltrops. They are called Jesuit’s
Nuts in Venice, and in some parts of
.Southern Europe are ground into \
flour and made into bread. The seeds
of all the species al>ound in starch,
and are much used for food. Those
ot T. bispinosa in Kashmir are said
to feed 30,000 people for five months
of the year. T. bicornis has seeds
fancifully considered to resemble a
bull’s head, and in China they also
form a considerable article of food.

Mr. Thiselton Dyer drew attention
a short time since at the Linnean
Society to a little-known form of this
plant called T. verbanensis. He was
>hown handsome rosaries made of the
fruits at Pallanza, on the Lago
Maggiore, where it grows plentifully,
and ripens its fruit by October. Ho
was informed by Sir George Macleay
that the frnits (known locally as
frutti di Jugo) used for the rosaries
are obtained from the Lago di
Varese. It is the lobes of the calyx
which harden and form the formid- ^

able projections which make the ■■■

fruit remarkable. In the accompany¬
ing illustration it will be observed
that there are root-like masses
beneath the water, and these arc finely-divided
leaves, which probably, to some extent at least,
perform the office of roots like the submerged
and root-like leaves of that charmingly pretty
tropical water weed, Salvinia, which has no
root & at all. R. I. L.

SHOWY FLAX (LINUM TRIGYNUM).

A more useful autumn, winter, or spring
blooming conservatory plant than this Flax is
hardly to be found. Its habit, the character of
its foliage, the colour and form of its flowers, are
unique at that, or indeed any season of the
year. Years ago I used to grow quantities of
this showy plant, though somehow it has
dropped out of our houses of late.

To grow CUTTINGS or old plants fast and
well a genial temperature is most useful to
them early in the season. A temperature of
60 degs. in a semi-saturated atmosphere suits
it well. In such conditions it may be grown from
January to May, stopping the shoots several times
during the growing season. This is of impor¬
tance, as the Linum onlv flowers on the extre-

Thc Water Caltrops (Trapa natans)

mities of the shoots, and the more vigorous
shoots that can be produced and well ripened
during the season the more flower. Having
thus laid the foundation of the plants in heat,
they are gradually inured to the open air, so

Lathyrus grandiflorus.— It is a mistake j j4 ^ \ V* %

to say this docs not produce seed. I saw some ' ?

plants covered with pods this summer in

Norfolk, and have sown the seeds in my garden. afek ' }

It is quite possible that plants in uncongenial
ituationB may not produce seeds, but that ia ^

uite different from never bearing any. Here
Vhe golden-leafed Japan Honeysuckle is so
vrdv it has stood winters that killed Laurels

wd other common shrubs. It flowers and Fruit of Trapa natani

knits also here. I have also aeon in this neigh¬
borhood Clematis Flammula reach the top of a j

trte 60 feet high, and then send sprays nearly that from hence to October the}
to the ground again. Neither it nor Clematis in a sheltered position out-oJ
Titalba die down, the old stems being fre- * were planted out and some f
quently a foot round at the base.—A. B. T., plunged up to the rims. Thepla
Si Anglia. f ^ , 1 y always made the finer leaves as

Digitized by

GARDENING ILL USTR/l TED

[Oct. 25, 1884.

398

will at once begin to take possession of it, and
will be working freely in it by the time the
flower-stems begin to push up. The influence
of this good food on the flower-stems must be
very great, especially if they get the benefit of
it from the time they commence to form. I
think the best results are obtained from plants
which have been grown one year in rather small
p ,tj, and having filled the same with healthy
nbres are shifted on without root disturbance.
If a moderate shift is given, the new soil will be
pretty well filled with roots by the time the
plants corns into growth, and the flower-stems
w 11 push up with great strength. I have had
lots of speciosum rubrum carrying nearly 150
fl >wcra, and which were shifted on in this way
from C-inch pots, never having had the ball
d sturbed. Such spscimens as these form have
a far finer effect than where bulbs of uniform
size are placed together, as they better repre¬
sent the true habit of the species. I agree with
a correspondent who considers

Large pots a mistake for auratum. This
Lily is rather tender-rooted, and does not so
quickly and thoroughly become master of the
soil as speciosum, longiflorum, and some other
kinds. Therefore, it is safer not to give it more
soil than it is likely to be able to thoroughly
fill with fibre, or there is much danger of its
becoming sour during a period of heavy rain¬
fall. It is certainly wiser in the case of this
Lily to give less pot-room, and rely upon weak
supplies of liquid manure, when the compost
becomes packed with roots. Some use loam for
this Lily, and if of a very fibrous character
there is no doubt that it may be employed with
safety; but I would counsel the inexperienced
to rely on pure peat, as, being naturally anti¬
septic, the roots are not easily injured in it,
especially if about a sixth of white sand is added.
Potted firmly and with good drainage, there is
but little danger of the roots becoming inactive
or perishing, and I always think that the foliage
assumes a deeper hue when peat forms the
greater portion, or, indeed, the whole of the
compost. Speciosum, on the contrary, being
altogether of a more robust character, seems
to require stronger food—a good compost con¬
sisting of loam and peat in equal parts, with a
little leaf-mould and a dash of silver sand.

Good drainage is indispensable, the more
especially as they have to pass the greater por¬
tion of their growing time in the open air, and
over the crocks should be placed a little very
fibrous material, with a handful of soot on that,
which will keep worms out until the pots become
full of roots, and no damage can well be done by
them. There can be no better place for them
after potting than a cold frame, where they can
be plunged up to the rims of the pots all the
winter, as thus circumstanced the soil remains
without watering in just the condition most
favourable for the production of roots. Generally
speaking, by the early spring roots are already
working round the sides of the pots, and by the
time they are placed in the open the soil will be
so occupied by them as to obviate danger from
heavy rains. J. C. B.

Potting Lilies. — The potting of Lilies is,
in many cases, deferred till much too late, as
when left till after the turn of the year the new
l oots are forming, and it is impossible then to
disturb the bulbs or ball of earth they are in
without breaking or injuring some of them,
however carefully the work may be done. The
proper time in which to re-pot is as soon as the
stems die down ; the bulbs should then be turned
out, and if in a crowded state, into which the
lancifolium section soon get, they should be
shaken from the old soil and divided. This may
be done by simply pulling the mass apart in
halves or quarters, according to the sized pots
in which they are to be placed, or the bulbs may
be separated and the small ones picked out, the
latter being the better plan, as the strong
flowering sizes can then be potted together and
fine specimens made of them. In preparing the
bulbs, many leave the stumps of the old stems
in the crowns, but I like to pull them out, eft
they are apt to induce the bulbs to decay, and
a3 they may be detached easily by giving them
a pull, the best way is to remove them. Bulbs
not crowded or irregular should not be disturbed
beyond reducing the ball and clearing away the
crown portion, but r potted in a maps in pots a
size or ** larger than thgre&in vjhjc n they were
befoie. Aa Liaes require aLuu'fanl

wate^ it is important that they have efficient
drainage. The kind of mixture most suitable
for their growth is fibry peat and loam, in about
equal parts, to which should be added a good
sprinkling of sharp clean sand. In placing the
! bulbs in their pots, it is always advisable to keep
them well down, so as to admit of 3 inches or
4 inches of soil being put about the crowns when
the pots are finally filled. In this the young
stems root, and the food obtained in that way is
a great help in forming and producing the flowers.
As to size of pots, nothing is gained by giving
too much room, especially in the case of
| L. auratum, single bulbs of which send up strong
stems and flower well in a very small body of
soil. The lancifolium varieties look best when
grown in numbers of from three to ten in a pot,
the larger quantity requiring a pot a foot or
15 inches across ; for the smaller, one of 7 inches
or 10 inches is quite large enough. If the soil
is moderately moist, as it should be when used for
potting Lilies, no -water will be required till they
begin to grow, as they need but little while they
are without tops and have few roots, which are
formed slowly during the next month or two, and
as the plants do not need light for some time
they may be set in any outhouse or shed, or
stowed away in any cold frame.—S. D.

Iberia gibraltarica in pots.— There are
two or three South European species of Iberis,
such as I. gibraltarica and I. Tenoreana, that
are not thoroughly hardy, and therefore not
suitable for growing in an unprotected border.
These are excellent plants for pot culture, and

tion. Small specimens of it in 5-inch pots are
useful for many purposes ; they produce offsets
freely, thus forming a cluster of three or four
together, and, beside the principal or centre
plant, some of these are occasionally strong
enough to flower, and half-a-dozen or so such
flower-spikes are very attractive. The best
flowering specimens are those that have been
grown in an exposed position during summer
and only removed under cover in autumn. In
our case we pot them in the spring, or rather
early in summer, when all danger from frost is
over, and place them on a bed of coal ashes,
where they remain till autumn. In potting,
any offsets needed for propagation are taken off,
and, if plentiful, three or four together are put
into one pot. Towards the end of the summer
they commence to push up flower-spikes in
quantity, which should be pinched off till
required. In this way a succession can be kept
up, as they come into flower soon after pinching
is discontinued. This Echeveria will also grow
readily from seeds, but as the plants make but
slow progress during their earlier stages, they
are best propagated by offsets.—H. P.

Eucharis amazonica. —Under cool treat¬
ment the flowers of this lovely plant come much
larger than those brought on rapidly in heat.
This Eucharis cannot, however, be grown satis¬
factorily in a cool temperature, but if as soon as
the flower-spikes show themselves the plants are
taken to an intermediate house the blossoms
will be larger than would be the case if they con¬
tinued in a higher temperature. We have quite
lately proved this to be so. Having more
flowering plants than we could accommodate in
the stove, half of the number were taken to
another house in which the temperature was
quite 15 degs. lower ; those so treated have much
larger flowers than those which remained whero
they were.—J. C. C.

Culture of Epiphyllums. — A lady
recently sent me some leaves of a succulent,
which I recognised as belonging to a species of
Epiphyllum, with the request that I should state
the cause of their dropping. As this is such a
common occurrence, ana often causes large
plants to melt away, as it were, becoming
smaller instead of larger every year, I have
thought that a few remarks on this subject
might prove acceptable to some of your readers.

In the first place, plants on their own roots are
far more liable to cast their foliage than grafted
ones ; and I advise all about to purchase to
obtain “worked ” specimens, as the Pereskia,
which forms the stock, is of a more wiry,
free rooting nature than Epiphyllums, and
is, therefore, by no means so liable to
suffer from stagnant moisture at the roots.
Now, it is an unhealthy condition of the roots
which causes leaf dropping, although a too cold
and damp atmosphere through the winter will
have the same effect. Defective root action is
caused by too much water, a too close compost,
which the fibrous roots cannot penetrate, or pots
too large. In a general way this is a great
fault, shifting is performed when there is abso
lutely no need for it, for succulents of all kinds
demand but little soil. In illustration of this
1 may cite the case of a rod-shaped, or, as it is
sometimes called, the Cat’s-tail Cactus (Cereus
flabelliformis), which has been in the same pot
for nearly ten years, and which last spring bore
quiteono hundred good blooms, and which has this
season made a bettergrowth than atany time pre¬
viously. By this time there can be scarcely any
soil in the pot, and I have often wondered how
it could live and grow. In a general way 5 j
Epiphyllums do not require to be shifted more .

il... in fliiuu Kaon on /1 tKo nrnrvor fimP

i

>i

*

*

*

A,\ * N ^ '

Iberis gibraltarica os a pot plant

are far more satisfactory grown in this way than
in the open border. The above illustration

shows what a pretty plant I. gibraltarica is
when grown in a pot, and this example is
not in the least exaggerated, as we have fre¬
quently seen plants of it with quite as many
flower-heads, and, when thus profusely bloomed,
their delicate pink colour is most attractive.

Iberis is best propugated by means of cuttings,
as it rarely produces seed in this country.

From their earliest stages of growth the
plants should be well attended to as re¬
gards watering, for if they get too dry
they soon shed their foliage, leaving the
stems bare. Any ordinary potting soil will do.

It is best to grow the plants in a frame, heated
sufficiently in winter to keep out frost; but
they must have no artificial heat given them
when the weather is mild, and then the frame
should be well ventilated. If cuttings of it are
struck early in spring, some creditable speci¬
mens may be obtained by autumn, which will
flower profusely the following spring, or rather
in May or June. The Italian I. Tenoreana, also
a pink-flowered species, may be treated in the
same way as gibraltarica. It is also a pretty
plant, but scarcely so effective as gibraltarica,
and, moreover, it thrives well ih the open
border if treated as a biennial. Iberis gibral¬
tarica hybrida, recently exhibited by Mr. K.

Dean, is likely to prove a valuable plant—more
so even than gibraltarica itself. Some plants of
it shown in the early part of the year at South
Kensington were greatly admired.—G.

Echeveria retuea.— As a flowering plant . „ _

for the greenhouse in winter this Echeveria has During the winter Epiphyllums like a tempera -fk
few rivals, esfecially if the small amount of tuceoffabout 50 ddg&.', a

5

than once in three years, and the proper time
to do so is just as the young growths com¬
mence to push, but never later than the end of
June. Take care that the pots are well drained,
and that the compost is sweet. Loam, with a
little leaf-mould and quite one-fifth of white
sand, with some pieces of brick rubble about
the size of a Pea, is most suitable, potting
firmly, but not hard. Epiphyllums like plenty t
of sun and air, therefore they should have the '<
hottest place in the house. After potting, water V
carefully, and at all times allow the soil to M
become nearly dry before watering. This is
very important, as the roots are so liable!^
to perish fiom too much water in the soil.l'r

..’ Epiphyllums like a tempera ■/'

gs.^ and if tfcy get this amount

ipplies of attention needed by it be taken into considera- of Wjirmth the so^f bp,keptjiipt moist, buf^

Oct. 25, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

300

if they are to be wintered in a cool house they
should not be watered more than twice or three
times during the winter. In any case place
them in the warmest corner, where they are
screened from draught, not only in winter but
through the spring. When a plant has gone
wrong turn it out of the pot about the middle of
April, Bhake away as much of the old soil as
possible without injuring the roots, and repot in
a pot just large enough to contain the roots.
Never water unless the soil is nearly dry, and
do not shift for two years, and there will be a
great improvement.— Byfleet.

Top-dressing plants in pots. — Last
winter I had to manage large quantities of
Roses, Heliotropes, Pelargoniums, &c., that had
flowered out-of-doors, and that had been lifted
and potted for winter blooming. All of them
had been over potted, and, as I could not shift
them into smaller pots without a severe cutting
back, I resorted to the mossing system. The
pots were 10 inches deep and 10 wide, and the
greater part of them were 12 inches in diameter
and 12 inches deep. One of these pots happened
to get broken, and revealed to me a new system
of crocking. It consisted of 6 inches of oyster
shells, not one shell inverted with potsherds
over it, but tumbled in helter-skelter; on these
were placed, pressed down hard, 1^ inches of
green Moss ; on that was put the soil, then the
plant. At first I thought this arrangement an
accident or an experiment with, perhaps, one

Calandrinias, and several other things in an rims of the pots in a sheltered place, where, if
unheated greenhouse facing south-west, and in possible, they are screened from heavy rains,
a very warm sunny spring I think the night tern- but they are better in a cool house or frame. If
perature was oOdegs. to 60 degs. Theywerekept kept under glass through the spring they
indoors until hardening off w'as necessary, and , will come into blossom much earlier than if

j allowed to remain in the open. Imantophyllum
miniatum requires to gain strength before it

then planted out in light soil ; one or two were
kept in the greenhouse in pots. They had no
treatment but what any occupier of a small
garden can give, and did not prove in the least
troublesome. The names I gave were those of
the seeds I asked for; whether those I got were
true to name I cannot say. One kind had large
white flowers as described. The double kind
had flowers violet, of a dull shade outside, and
violet shading to white, or white lined violet
within, I forget which. They may be difficult
plants to keep as perennials, but they are cer¬
tainly extremely easy to manage as annuals.
None of these tender plants should be grown
out-of-doors north of a lme from Bath, through
Marlborough, and London. The bad drainage
and general cultivation of the land to the north
of that line affects the climate so injuriously
that the conditions are more severe than those
of the midlands of Scotland.—J. D.

Campanula garg-anica. — The following
description and annexed woodcut have been
sent to us by Messrs. Haage and Schmidt:—
“This charming miniature Bellflower, with
heart-shaped toothed foliage, forms small tufts
only about 2 inches in height. The pretty,
light blue, erect flowers, 4 inch across, appear

plant. But no; every pot was crocked in a, on the trailing branches, each about 10

r . , . , * J r ,_ i _ 5 i ! _in _ 1 _ll • _j._

similar way, both for soft and hard-wooded
plants. I surfaced with bone dust and Moss,
and very soon the working roots were at the
top, in the form of a complete mat. I then
commenced using liquid manure made from cow
droppings, and I had soon 2 feet of young wood
on my Roses, all of which are flowered finely.
On the Heliotropes and other things I never had
in the same space of time, under any culture,
such fine blooms. Whether this is the result of
the dose of oyster shells or the treatment given
your readers can form their own opinions ; I
have mine. In potting we all know there is a
good deal of waste soil between the crown and
the starting of the roots. When we repot we,
of course, detach this, and apply the bone dust
simply or with the addition of liquid manure,
the object, seemingly, of the Moss being to ex¬
clude light and air, and thus induce the roots
to grow upwards. I tried a few plants without
the Moss, but without such good results. 1
place my Moss level with the rim of the pot.
but I notice that some growers apply it diffe
rently, bringing it up in a cone to the stem,
which, in the case of small pots, cannot well
be avoided. It reminds one of how, in days
gone by, we used to put Sphagnum on the top
of plants and tie it down with bast f or pack¬
ing. On this side we pack in tiers in a dry-
goods box, from three to six pots high, and
send them thousands of miles without a pot
being broken. In order to get all we want, or
possibly can get from winter-flowering plants,
the mossing, bone dust, and liquid manuring
system is the best; and to get healthy roots in
the case of a sickly plant without repotting I
am sure it will work well.—G. H., New Jersey.

Datura Knightii.—I am much obliged to
««J. Cornhill ” for his note on the Datura
Knightii ; but I scarcely think it can be the
same mentioned by “Geo. Burton, Southtown,
Great Yarmouth,” who mentions having raised
his plants, not from cuttings, but from a packet
of seeds sold by Messrs. E. G. Henderson, St.
John’s Wood. Perhaps Mr. Cornhill’s shrub is
the Brugmansia arborea ? The shrub spoken of
by Mr. Burton bloomed the same year as sown,
during July, August, and September, in 8-inch
pots. I have not yet ascertained if any part of
England is warm enough to bloom Datura
ceratocaula and D. chlorantha in open air.—
Ah Old Lady.

Daturas. —I quite agree with “An Old
Lady ’’ that these plants require a hot place.
In an article like the one she refers to it is not
possible to give any but the slightest hints about
plants, only just sufficient to draw attention to
them. In the abnormally cold summers we have
had since 1877 Daturas would not be suitable for
outdoor decoration any more than Balsams ; but
now that we seem to be having our old hot
summers again, all these tender plants can be
used for outdoor decoratiep. My plants were
raised along with Bajsams^ Jfunja> ejegans,

inches to 12
fusion. It

inches in length, in great pro
a very fine plant for hanging

Campanula garganiea; flowers liyht blue.

baskets and for pot culture ; it flowers the first
year when sown early. ”

12025.— LIlium auratum.— It was wrong
to keep the plant under glass all through the
summer. Lilies like plenty of air and a cool,
moist atmosphere when making their growth,
and from June onwards are best on the north
side of a hedge or building. After September,
when done blooming, they are best under cover,
as drenching rainB often injure the roots in the
open. Water only when dry and when the stems
turn yellow. Shake away all the old soil, re¬
potting in peat, with plenty of white sand in it,
giving good drainage, and putting a little soot
thereon to keep worms out. Do not let the soil
come more than two-thirds up the pot, filling up
when the stems are a foot high, which causes
roots to be produced from the stems. Keep the
soil just moist through the winter, and from the
time the young growths come through the soil
give abundance of air. A cold frame, where the
light can be pulled off in fine weather, is the
best place.—J. C. B.

12148. —Lapageria not blooming.— By
no means cut the plant down, it ought to flower
on the old shoots; but something must have
been wrong for the leaves to fall off at the base.
Lapagerias love a cool moist atmosphere in
summer, just about what a Fern delights in, with
plenty of light, but scarcely any sun from May
to September. In winter the soil should be
only moist, but in summer liberal supplies
should be given, especially if the soil has become
full of roots. You will not succeed with
cuttings ; it is by layers Lapagerias are propa¬
gated.—J. C. B.

12128.—Azaleas and Imantophyllums.
—The hardy Azaleas may be plunged to the

can bloom. Shift the plant next April into a
6-inch pot, and the following year into one a
size larger, using loam and peat in equal parts, with
plenty of white sand, and giving good drainage.
Grow in a light position, but shade from hot sun,
watering carefully, but more freely as the pot
gets full of roots. It may be wintered in a
cool greenhouse, keeping the soil of the two
rather dry.—J. C. B.

- In a wet and cold garden, which is not favoured

with an)- sun from November to March, hardy Azaleaj
would be beat in the greenhouse. Imantophyllum mini¬
atum does best in a stove. A plant that has been two
years in a 4j-inch pot should now be potted. With good
treatment such a plant might be a good specimen in a 12-
inch pot in two years.—J. D. E.

12035.— Camellia seed.—Gather the pods and store in
a dry cool place until April, and then sow in sandy peat in
a well-drained pot. keeping close and dark until germina¬
tion takes place.—J. C. B.

12137.— Preserving old Pelargoniums. — They
will do far better in a warm greenhouse than in the dark
and kept dry. The treatment is herbaceous and net to bo
thought off.—J. D. E.

-They should be wintered in a cool, light place,

merely giving enough w’atcr to preserve life An ordinary
greenhouse or a window where no frost comes is the place
for them.—J. C. B.

12142. — Wintering Fuchsias. — They may be
wintered in a cellar. Keep them dry at the roots. Indeed,
they will not want any water until they are taken out in the
spring.—J. D. E.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 394 )

The Melon.

A low, span-roofed house, or pit, partly sunk in
the ground, without any Bide glass, with venti¬
lators low down, near the ground, so that the
external air may come in contact with the
warm pipes on entrance. The ridge piece or
cap should lift up with a lever for the egress of
the vitiated air. There should be a 4-foot path
down the centre, with a 3-foot bed on each side
to plant the Melons in. If the house is 12 feet
wide, it will require two 4-inch pipes all round
for top heat, and two for bottom heat in each

f >it, to be laid in loose rubble, with a drain-pipe
et in at intervals, for the purpose of pouring
in water to moisten the bottom heat, otherwise
it might get too dry to be genial. For very
early Melons it might be desirable to increase
the number of pipes for top heat, to avoid the
necessity for hard firing, which, in the case of a
plant so subject to the attacks of red spider as
the Melon, might predispose them to attack.
Over the rubble should be placed as much fer¬
mented dung, or leaves, or a mixture of the
two, as will fill the pit up to the top, as the
nearer Melons are trained to the glass, provided
the leaves do not touch, the better.

Soil.

As regards soil, Melons do not require any
complicated mixture. Turfy loam that has
been laid up in the heap six or eight months
will be all that is needed, and except the first
barrow-load, which is placed in each hill—which
should be about 4 feet apart—to plant in, it may
be used quite rough. Good Melons have been
grown trained in a makeshift manner on pliable
Ash or Hazel rods, bent over from each side,
and tied together in the centre ; but the ex¬
pense of having the house properly fitted up
with wires is not great, and it will look neater
and be better.

Raising the Plants.

Melons seed so freely, few people ever think
of striking cuttings, though the young shoots
strike freely in a warm pit, and sometimes it
may be desirable to increase the stock of a new
or favourite kind in that way; but the
majority of the plants are raised from seeds.
Where Melons are required early the first lot of
seed should be sown early in February, in a
warm house or pit, having a temperature of
not less than 65 degs. at night; and at this early
season it is best to sow in single pots, one seed
in the centre of each, sowing more seeds than
we require plants, in order to have a power of
selection, if six plants are required at least a
dozen seeds should be sown. Sow in light,
sandy compost, and, if possible, plunge the pots

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

400

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 25. 1884.

till the seeds germinate in a bottom heat of
75 degs. or 80 degs. In all stages of its existence
the Melon should be grown in a strong light,
as only so can strong healthy foliage be built
up. Once begin to weaken the growth of the
plants, by shading or by permitting the plants
to remain any distance from the glass, and we
predispose them for the attack of the red spider,
which will probably appear on the scene by-aml-
bye. When the plants have attained to the rough-
leaf stage they may be shifted into 48-sized pots,
still keeping them near the glass; and when
the roots are fairly into the new soil, if the
house is ready, plant them out. There is nothing
gained by thick planting. Plant 4 feet apart,
and lead out a shoot from the botton of each
plant, besides the main stem, and train up
midway between that and its next neighbour.
The leaders should be taken up, without stopping
till the allotted space is covered, and then have
the terminal bud removed. All side shoots
should be stopped one leaf beyond the fruit, and
all laterals be pinched to one leaf.

Setting the Fruit.

As regards what should constitute a crop of
Melons it is difficult to say, as everything
depends upon the size of the kind grown and
the strength and development of the plant; but
generally about four full-sized fruits may be
considered as many as a vigorous plant should
carry, and the matter should be so timed as to
set the crop as near altogether as possible.
The reason for this is, if one fruit gets the
lead of the others it robs them of their fair
share of nutriment, and they will not grow. If
we want, say, four fruits to grow to maturity, it
is as well, in order to secure that power
of selection I have already adverted to, to set
at least six or eight, and, when we see which
are likely to turn out best, retain those and cut
away the others. I do not know if I need say
much about the operation of setting. Every¬
one knows the male and female flowers, though
borne on the same plant, are quite independent
of each other, and unless brought together by
some agency fertilisation could not take place.
Tnere are various ways of doing this, but the
gardener usually does it in his own rough and
ready way by plucking a male flower from the
same plant that carries the fruit he intends to
fertilise. By a rapid motion of his thumb and
finger the corolla is torn away, leaving the
cluster of stamens exposed and uncovered.
These he thrusts into the centre of the female
flower, leaving it there. Both flowers must be
in the right condition when the operation is
performed, and the pollen must be dry. About
eleven or twelve o’clock on a sunny day is the
best time. After the crop is set and fairly
swelling all the male flowers and all fruits not
required should be removed, and no lateral be
permitted to interfere with the direct light
falling on the main leaves, as if these are in¬
jured the fruits cannot be so good as they should
be. The first leaves of a Melon plant are, like
the first leaves of the Grape vine, indispensable
to the well-being of the crop.

Earthing Up.

A single barrowful of soil will be sufficient to
start the young plants in, but as growth pro¬
ceeds more soil will be required, and enough
should be added to complete the ridge along the
front of the pits. The soil should be pressed
down firmly, and the growth of the plants will
be firmer and the texture of the foliage more
substantial if the loam is heavy rather than
light. Later on, when the fruits are swelling,
the side of the bed next the path may be filled
up with soil to complete the earthing up. In
light soil Melons make too much growth, and it
is of too soft a nature to withstand bright sun¬
shine and the attacks of red spider.

Heat, Moisture, and Shade.

Melons never ought to be shaded. When well
grown in the right kinds of soil they are quite
capable of bearing all the sunshine we obtain,
and Bhade weakens the plants injuriously.
With proper ventilation, and due attention
given to watering, shade will never be required.
A comfortable bottom heat is one of the chief
requisites for successful Melon culture, for
though Melons good to look at can be grown
without it, they do not possess the right flavour.
In this respect root warmth, beyond wliat is

supplied by the- s “

when the protects

sun-rin our climate.

even

seems

essential to the highest pitch of excellence.
When the bottom heat is supplied by hot-
water pipes a bed of fermenting materials over
them tends to steady the temperature, and
makes it more genial; in fact, we have . the
steady moisture of the dung bed with the steady
warmth of hot-water pipes. In the early stages
the Melon will require liberal supplies of
moisture, both at the root and in the atmosphere;
but, unlike its relative the Cucumber, it must
have a free ventilation, to keep its foliage strong
to the last. But a free and perfect system of
ventilation is always consistent with a steady
warmth and freedom from draughts. In bright
weather, as the days lengthen and the fruit is
approaching its full size, a little air should be
given early in the morning, and the fullest use
made of the sunshine by closing early in the
afternoon.

Temperature.

The night temperature from artificial means
never need exceed from 60 to 65 degs. Of course
in hot weather in summer it will range higher.
The day temperature, with air enough on to
prevent scorching, may run up to 80 degs., or
more; indeed, the more warmth Melons get in
the daytime the better, as the sunshine will
consolidate any growth which is made. Early
in the season, in order to check draughts, it is
a good plan to cover the ventilators over with a
coarse scrim or canvas ; enough air percolates
through to keep the interior atmosphere in gentle
motion, without causing a chilled condition. This
plan is useful in the cause of all early forcing ;
the scrim robs the fresh air of its icy coldness.

Melons without Fire Heat.

There are an immense number of Melons
grown without fire heat—more, in fact, with¬
out than with. Gardeners of the old school
always grew their Melons by the aid of manure
alone, and much ingenuity was displayed by
clever men in the arrangement of their pits and
beds of fermenting materials, so as to ensure a
steady warmth. In my young days I have seen
a good many experiments tried, but provided
one had plenty of fermenting materials, such as
tree leaves and stable manure, always ready for
use to frequently renew the linings, as much
success wa3 obtained with a two or three-light
frame and an ordinary dung bed of substantial
size as by a more elaborate arrangement; but
very great pains were taken in the fermentation
or sweetening of the dung, and the building up
of the bed. Where only an ordinary hotbed
can be had for Melons, February is time enough
to begin. If a warm forcing house is at work
anywhere, the seeds may be sown and brought
on in that; but, generally speaking, it is best
to make up a small hotbed for raising plants for
dung beds. This should be done about the first
week in February, and probably Cucumbers and
such things will require to be sown about that
time, so that there will be plenty of work for a
small one-light frame to do. In hotbed making
early in the season the mixing and fermenting
of the materials must be carefully done. If the
bed be made up with rank manure, the heat
will be of too fiery a nature at first, and
too cold afterwards. To make up a hotbed
at the beginning of February the manure
and leaves should be thrown up in a
heap about the middle of January, and
when it becomes hot it should be turned and
well shaken together, the outsides of the heap
placed in the middle, and any dry spots
moistened by watering. This may require re¬
peating until the whole is in a nice sweet con¬
dition, when the bed should be made of sufficient
size to accomplish the end in view. A one-light
seed frame in January will require a bed 5 feet
high at back and 4 feet at front. It should also
be a foot wider and longer than the frame.
Some care must bo taken in building it up to
give the same pressure all over its surface, so
that it may settle equally all over the bed. The
site for the bed should be set out by driving in
a stake at each corner, then place a layer of equal
thickness all over the space enclosed by the
stakes, and either treading it or beating it down
to the requisite degree of firmness. This is a
matter of some importance and requires a little
experience, for, if it be made too fi rm, it will hardly
heat sufficiently to produce the requisite tem¬
perature. On the other hand, if it be packed
together too loosely, it will heat too violently,
and afterwards become cold and give no end of
bother in lining. It will thus be seen that

simply throwing a heap of dung together, and
then placing a frame and light on the top, will
not lead to success. Not only must the stuff,
whatever is used, be sweetened by mixing and
turning for a fortnight before using it, but the
bed must be so constructed that the heat will be
regular and steady. Some sawdust or Cocoa-
fibre may be placed in the frame to plunge the
pots in, and the frame at night must be thickly
covered with warm coverings. Linings will
require to be added to the bed w’hen the heat
declines, and this period will need watching for
to arrest the decline before it gets too cold. The
fruiting bed will require to be built up so as to
, be ready to receive the plants when they are in
a fit condition to be put out. The culture of

Melons in Frames

In its leading features is like the culture in
houses heated by hot water. In both cases
the heat must be steady, both at the
root and in the air. The same care as re¬
gards ventilation and atmospheric moisture
is necessary. As regards the training of
Melons in frames, the usual way is, when the
bed is ready, to place a hill of loam in the centre
of each light, and leave it a day or two to get
warm through to the temperature of the frame,
then put it into the right position and press it
down to the requisite degree of firmness, and
plant one good strong Melon plant in the
centre of the light. Sometimes two plants
are placed in each light, but, unless the lights
are longer and wider than the average, I think
one plant enough. The plants will probably
have been stopped several days before, and the
moment the roots begin to feel the stimulus of
the fresh soil four or more shoots will break
away from the base of the plant. Four of the
best of these will be pegged out towards the
four corners of the frame, but before much
progress is made more earth should be placed in
the frame to fill it up to the level of the hills, or
nearly so. Melons succeed best in a somewhat
heavy loam, made rather firm by pressure. If
the soil is at all light they make too much
growth, and the constant pinching and pruning
which is thereby rendered necessary not only
weakens and exhausts the system of the plant,
but it often leads to the attacks of disease
and insects. That fatal disease, gangrene, is
often produced primarily by planting in a soil
too light, and, possibly, too rich. As soon as
the four leading shoots reach the corners of the
frame the leaders must be pinched out, and all
the side shoots should be stopped one leaf from
the fruit. The routine culture is to set the
fruit, and as soon as they begin to swell to place
them on pans to lift them off the ground, and it
is best to place the flower end of the fruit
towards the north. Sometimes the fruit cracks,
and I have an idea that the sun, when it shines
early in the morning upon the fruit, may have
some injurious influence, especially if the ventila¬
tors are not opened so early as they ought to be.

The Flavour of Melons

Is more than any other fruit influenced by
culture, and when the finest possible condition
is reached it remains in the fruit but a short
time ; hence the difficulty of always having a
really good fruit to place on the table for any
particular party unless numbers are grown. As
soon as the fruit begins to change colour water
must be withheld and plenty of air be given.
When the fruit is near the ripening stage it
should be cut and placed in a cool fruit-room for
a day or two, and then sent to table.

Diseases and Insects.

The chief disease which attack Melons is the
gangrene or ulcer, which attack the main stems,
and which generally causes premature death.
When it first appears it may bo checked by a
free use of quicklime applied to the parts
affected, and by increasing the temperature,
giving more ventilation, and watering very
carefully. Avoid pouring the water in the
centre of the plant, but giving it more liberally
round the outsides of the light. This disease is
more troublesome in frames than houses.
Fluctuation in the bottom heat furnishes a con¬
dition favourable to its spread, cold and damp
helps it forward, but warmth and dryness are
its enemies. It has something of a fungoid cha¬
racter. The chief enemy to the Melon grower is
the red spider. I suppose this insect injures more
, felons than ary other cause. No matter how
I carefully the cultural conditions may be carried

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Oct. 25, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

401

out, sooner or later he makes his appearance,!
and if he cannot get a footing in house or frame
before, he will at least be in at the death. The
best antidotes are a vigorous growth in the full
light of the sun, a genial condition as regards
moisture at the root and in the atmosphere, with
a smell of sulphur about the house or frame at
all times. As regards varieties, but little need
be said, as Melons are good or bail mainly
because of the surrounding conditions of
culture. E. Hobday.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

FORMATION OF YOUNG PLANTATIONS.

There is, perhaps, no question at the present
time fraught with more importance to the lauded
proprietor than that of how to make large areas
of bare Heather moor and barren peat bog pay.
Owners of Heather moors and rugged glens in the
north receive fair rents by letting them as deer
forests and for grouse shooting ; but there are
vast tracts of uncultivated land and peat bogs
in Great Britain and Ireland which neither
contain deer nor grouse, and from which the
owners never receive a single penny ; and as
such lands are capable of producing crops of
valuable timber under proper management, I
will give a brief outline of my experience in
the formation and management of new planta¬
tions under such circumstances. Peat bog is so
widely different in chemical composition from
that of ordinary soil, that for most crops it
requires altogether a different mode of prepara¬
tion and treatment both before and at the time
of planting in order to ensure success. Peat
moss, or bog, as it is called, is composed
principally of the remains of dead aquatic
plants in an imperfect state of decomposition,
rendered so by the quantity of water which it
contains, and until such time as this excess of
moiBtare is drained off it is incapable of sup¬
porting trees or crops of any kind. The first
step to be taken in its improvement, therefore,
is to have it thoroughly drained. In forming

Main drains, care should be taken to carry
them along the margin of the proposed planta¬
tion, as in this way they answer the double
purpose of a fence and an outlet for the water
discharged from the smaller drains within the
plantation. If possible, large arterial drains
should never be cut within the plantation, as
they prove a source of trouble and expense in
the formation of roads and the removal of
timber. These drains may be cut about 8 feet
wide at top, 5 feet deep, and 2 feet wide at
bottom. In ordinary workable bogs I have had
them cut to the above dimensions at the rate of
Is. lOd. and 2s. per perch of 5^ lineal yards.
In places where the bog forms a quagmire,
and where any extra work is required, the cost
will be a little more, according to the circum¬
stances of the case. The next step to be taken
is the

Formation of Roads. —These should be laid
off so as not only to be convenient for the re¬
moval of timber from the different quarters of
the plantation, but also to answer the purpose
of shooting roads when the cover is let for game.
It is also a matter of importance for their
stability, as well as saving expense, that they
be laid off in such a way as not to come in
contact with any cross drains over which it
would be necessary to build bridges, always a
difficult and expensive undertaking on boggy
ground. As, however, most bogs are tolerably
level, I have neverfound much difficulty in direct¬
ing the small drains from the interior of the plan¬
tation in such a way that they could empty
themselves into the main drains without crossing
the roads, thus obviating the use of bridges,
except at the places of ingress and egress.
Suppose, for example, a road has to be formed,
24 feet broad, right through a plantation, say
from north to south, and that drains have to be
cut on both sides of the road, 3 feet wide at top,
30 inches deep, and 15 inches wide at the
bottom, the material excavated must be spread
upon the road in such a way as to raise its
centre and give it a uniform slope towards the
drains. Small drains should then be cut at
right angles from the roadside drains on both
sides, so that one-half would discharge their
water into the main drain on the east, and the
other into the drain on^he west aide. In all
ordinary cases these imalLdm : iir maj be.cut at
a distance of about 5 lardfe ^fti:doftrtrlfilky about

160 perches per acre, which at 3d. per perch
would amount to 40s. per acre for cutting. This
work should always be executed at least one
year before planting operations are commenced,
in order to give the bog time to subside and get
firm. The next step is to provide about twenty
cartloads of claj' or soil per acre to be mixed
with ^he bog at the time of planting. I have
generally used a railway, capable of being
worked by manual labour, for bringing forward
the soil, but in cases where rails cannot be had,
the material will require to be carted, and as
bog roads need a series of years to dry and
become firm before finishing their formation,
spread a thick coat of Heather, tree branches,
or both on the surface to form a road for the
time being. The average cost of carting
twenty loads of clay or soil is about 6d. per load
if it can be conveniently obtained, which would
be equal to 10s. per acre. Then for wheeling
the soil from the road, and leaving it in small
convenient heaps over the surface of the bog,
say 10s. per acre. The cost for opening 3,000
pits for the young trees, the quantity allowed
for an acre, and distributing the soil, giving
each pit its proper proportion, would be 30s.
and that of planting an acre 10s. Putting these
sums in tabular form, therefore, the following
represents the cost of planting an acre of peat

bog :—

Proportion for cutting main drain enclosing a £ s. d.

20-acre plantation, 12 perch at 2b. .. ..140

Cutting 1G0 lineal perch small drains at 3d. .. 2 0 0

20 loads clay or soil; per load, 6d.0 10 0

Wheeling soil on to bog .0 10 0

Opening 3,000 pits for plants, and supplying them

with soil .1 10 0

2,000 2-year seodling 1 year transplanted Scotch

Fire at 15s.1 10 0

1,000 2-vear seedling 1 year transplanted Larch,

at 20s.10 0

Expense of planting an acre.0 10 0

Proportion for erecting bridges and making gates 0 4 0
Pulling Heather for road.0 2 0

£0 0 0

The above prices are a fair average of what I
have actually paid for the execution of such
works by contract, and I have seldom exceeded
that price, but often had the work done for less
money—a circumstance arising principally from
the condition of the bog. In autumn the pits
should be opened for the young trees ; the clay
or soil should be divided equally amongst them,
and allowed to lie on the edge of the pits till
spring, by which means it will be much im¬
proved through the effects of the w'eather.
Young trees should never be planted in cold,
deep bog land in autumn or winter, os the peat
has a destructive influence on the roots, and
often kills the plants altogether before the
growing season commences. I have always
planted bog lands with most success in April.

J. B. W.

12118.— Planting trees.— Deciduous trees mav be
planted any time between November and the end of Feb¬
ruary. Perhaps the best time to move coniferous trees is
in the spring. The same as to pruning—the first at any
time, the latter in spring.—J. D. E.

FRUIT.

DISEASES IN APPLE TREES.

Good cultivation, such as a thorough prepara¬
tion of the soil before planting, careful pruning,
guarding the stems from injury, and rich top-
dressings to keep the roots near the surface, are
the surest ways of keeping trees healthy. On
the elevated portions of the hills about Maid¬
stone, where the soil is light and dry, only a
limited number of sorts keep long healthy in
the natural soil, many of the tender kinds that
do well on the lower parts of the slopes failing
through canker or mildew in a few years.
Drought during the growing season has probably
much to do in inducing mildew, and unskilful
pruning canker. Only sorts that keep healthy
under such conditions should, therefore, be
planted, and, singular as it may appear, some of
our choicest varieties do adapt themselves to
these unfavourable positions, and keep as
healthy as a Crab or an ungrafted seedling.
Stone’s Apple or Loddington Seedling, one of the
best of market kitchen Apples, keeps healthy on
soils where many others fail, and that most
beautiful of early dessert Apples, the Summer
Golden Pippin, not only keeps healthy, but bears
annually good crops. Most of the Codlin tribe,
too, keep equally free from canker or mildew

even where it is difficult to keep Ribstons, Cox s
Orange, or King of the Pippins alive. It does
not pay market growers to try remedial
measures, for even when the trees are but
slightly affected by either canker or mildew the
fruit is sure to be specked and comparatively
valueless for market. If the main branches are
healthy, they are headed down and grafted with
sorts proved to succeed in the particular locality,
and the most efficient remedy for keeping the
trees in health is a top-dressing of partially
rotten manure, spread over the surface after the
winter pruning has been done to keep the roots
cool and moist and near the surface. It is when
the roots get down into bad subsoils that the
trees rapidly canker. Pruning of the unripened
ends of the wood so that the main shoots or
leaders start from thoroughly ripened wood is
also of great benefit, for unripe wood is liable to
get injured by frosts, which rupture the sap
vessels, and if left on the tree cause wounds
similar to those produced by canker.

Mildew when it makes its appearance on the
leaves must be treated superficially with sulphur,
the best means of applying it being by one of
the sulphurator8 used for Hops. They do the
work well, distributing it evenly over the
surface, but to be effectual it must be renewed
at intervals. If put on while the leaves are
damp with dew it sticks to them, and has the
effect of killing the fungus. It is best applied
w r hen the w’eather is clear and bright, or when
hot days and cool dewy nights prevail. Preven¬
tion is, however, better than cure, and the means
employed to w'ard off canker will generally keep
off mildew.

Moss and Lichen. —These usually occur on
trees that grow on wet, undrained ground.
They are seldom troublesome where the land is
well prepared or naturally well drained, for,
although the Apple often suffers from lack of,
rather than from excess of, moisture, anything
in the way of stagnant water in the soil soon
shows itself in the shape of Moss-grown branches.
Efficient drainage is the only permanent remedy,
but as a superficial measure the stems and main
branches should be scraped in winter and
coated with lime-wash. The branches must
also be dusted with freshly slaked lime; and as
Moss always spreads most rapidly on trees in a
stunted condition, they should get a good dress¬
ing of rich manure, either solid or liquid, to
start them into rigorous growth. J. G. H.

Root pruning fruit trees.— This opera¬
tion implies a check to the whole of the forces
of the tree, and this, in fact, is the object in
view, the check being given to correct an evil
habit; but the correction having been adminis¬
tered, if precautions are taken against a repeti¬
tion of the offence, the sooner the balance of
Nature is restored the better. In the case of
large old trees the renovation will be more com¬
pletely effected by taking away the exhausted
soil from the trench and substituting good
sound fresh material. This treatment will
tempt the roots to start again and make plenty
of fibres immediately. Autumn is the time
usually selected by most cultivators for root
pruning, but it does not follow that in all cases
autumn is the best time for performing that
operation. I believe that if done carefully, and
the trees are well attended to afterwards with
water, it may be done at any time.—E.

Top-dressing’ fruit tree borders.-
With even the most superficial thinkers it can
scarcely need a moment’s consideration to decide
on the desirability of keeping the roots of fruit
trees on the surface of the border, or rather as
near the surface as is consistent with safety from
injurious effects by drought or frost. Some may
ask, but why on the surface ? why should not the
entire border be occupied ? To which I reply,
by all means ; and the best way of ensuring this
is to constantly encourage the roots upwards,
for, in spite of every effort to the contrary, a
certain percentage in course of time will
inevitably strike downwards, but these are
invariably the roots that are of least conse¬
quence, and can the more willingly be disre¬
garded when it is considered that even if these
thick roots were near the surface they could not
be appreciably benefited by air and sun heat—
certainly not in anything like the proportion
that smaller roots would be by the same
natural means. Bat now, as to how the roots
are to be kept near tfip surface. ,-_I only know

402

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 25, 1884.

of one wav, and that is by the regular
annual, at least, application of fresh soil or
manure, or of both in combination, as may bo
required by the varying kinds of fruits that are
to bo operated on. Vines, Peaches, and Figs,
outdoors and in, most relish a top-dressing of
good fresh turf, half-inch bones, and old or de¬
composed cow manure, and old mortar rubble,
or, failing this, chalk. Half a bushel of bones,
a couple of bushels of mortar scraps, or chalk, a
cartload of cow manure, and three cartloads of
fresh loam, thoroughly incorporated, are about
the proportions we use, and this mixture is
applied directly to the roots, all loose and inert
top soil being previously removed, and to make
certain of gaining the fullest benefit of the
dressing, a slight mulching of droppings is
laced over the new' top-dressing ; this helps to
eep the new soil in a moist condition, a state
which most favours renewed root action. All
our fruit borders have such a dressing at this
season of the year, and in addition have one,
and sometimes two good mulchings of manure
in the height of the growing season. Apricots,
Pears, and favourite kinds of Apples and Plums
also come in for a share of such dressings, but
they are not so fastidious as to materials;
therefore, for the most part, the refuse soil from
vine borders is given to them, but a larger
amount of manure by way of mulching. I may
add that Peaches and Apricots cannot have the
soil too firm. I constantly note that where the
soil of the borders has been the most trampled,
there the roots are in greatest quantity, not the
thickest, but most fibred or lateralled and
suceulent.

12134.— Nectarines splitting.—Some varieties have
a tendency to do this. The Stan wick frequently does, and
its offspring Victoria has the same fault. Plant sorts that
do not crack—Pine Apple, Lord Napier, Elruge, Violette
Hative, Stanwick Elruge, &c. It usually goes wrong
when the fruit is taking the second swelling. Keep the
trees dry at the roots as a preventative.—J. D. E.

12124.—Manure for fruit trees.— Dissolved bones
will do, but that material is not so good as bones crushed
up to a powder. It requires acids to dissolve bones, and it
is not likely that acids of any kind can be useful among
the roots of fruit trees or anywhere else.—J. D. E.

12100.—American Blackberries.— The Law ton and
Newman’s thornless can be had of Bunyard and Co., the
Old Nurseries, Maidstone, Kent. American cut-leaved from
T. Cheal and Sons, Lowfleld Nurseries, Crawley, Sussex.—
G. A. W.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

WINTER TREATMENT OF VEGETABLES.
Seldom, perhaps, have vegetables been more
abundant or better than they have been this
autumn; even Scarlet R.unners, Peas, and
similar tender things can still be had from the
open. We cannot expect this state of things to
continue long, however, and those who would
prolong the delicacies just named must be ready
to protect or gather them when frost comes.
The best way of managing with Tomatoes is to
cut all the most forward and lay them on dry,
airy shelves in a warm house or room, where
they will ripen and finish colouring, and though
not so good as those obtained earlier in the
season, they are passable, and come in well for
kitchen use. French Beans or Scarlet Runners
will keep a long time now if picked and laid be¬
tween dry Cabbage leaves in boxes, or buried in
moist sand, which washes off them readily when
wanted if placed in a sieve under a pump.

Cauliflowers may be preserved in many
ways, a good plan for those required first being
to cut them with most of the stem and leaves
attached, and then hang them up after tying the
foliage close over the heart with matting, by
which they may be Blung on a nail. Those
required to keep longer should be taken up by
the roots, and either laid in by the heels in some
soil in a shed where they can have a mat
thrown over them by night, or placed in any
spare cold frames where they can be protected
by having the lights and other coverings put
over them when frost is severe. If frames or
sheds are not at liberty, they may be laid in
close under a wall or other fence on a border,
where it is an easy matter to shelter them
with mats or straw, and this is the beBt way
of treating the earlier kinds of Broccoli, such as
Snow's, Osborn’s, and Backhouse’s, which turn in
during winter, as without some kind of protection
they often get spoiled. The disturbance to the
roots may, and doubtless does, lessen the size of
the heads, but that fb a' T small matte J when the
safety of a whole lqfciaj^njp leiaO J £He later

sorts of Broccoli are very luxuriant, owing to the
exuberant growth which they have made, and in
order to insure part of the crop of these against
severe frost, it is advisable to turn them over on
their sides and bury their stems so as to bring
their heads near the ground, which places them
in a much better position to endure hard weather
than upright, as when snow comes, instead of the
leaves hanging down and leaving the hearts ex¬
posed, they lie over the heads and protect them.
Treated in the way referred to, I have known
large breadths saved when others left as they
grew were every one spoiled or destroyed.
Cabbages should be simply earthed up after the
ground has been hoed and cleaned, which
steadies them against wind. Young Cauliflowers
ought to be potted singly, and kept in cold frames
ready for planting out early in spring, as then
they experience no check, but commence grow¬
ing at once. Spinach before hoeing is much
benefited by having a dressing of soot sown
between the rows, as it not only acts as a
powerful and agreeable stimulant, but wards off
slugs and insects that affect either root or top,
and often do as much mischief to the one as the
other.

Celery should now in most places soon have
its last earthing up, and when doing this it is
necessary to bring the soil to a sharp ridge at
the top, so as to keep out wet, which if it gets
into the hearts of the plants causes them to rot,
and does as much or more harm than the frost.
The maggot has been and is very prevalent
still in some places, and in these latter cases
it is advisable to go very carefully over the
plants and squeeze the parts of the leaves affected
between the finger and thumb, which crushes
the maggots at work there, and prevents any
further spread of the evil.

Beet and Carrots, if not up, should be got
in at once, as frost injures both, and if touched
by it, the roots suffer in flavour and rot.
Where Carrots and Beet keep best is in sheds,
where they should be stacked in dry sand or
earth with the crowns out, in which way they
remain dry and do not decay. Parsnips are
best left in the ground and taken out when
wanted, as frost improves them, and many dig
them out and let them lie, that they may be
more subjected to it, as it makes them more
mild and mellow when cooked. Turnips,
though equally hardy, deteriorate by exposure,
and the best way with them is to cut out trenches
in the ground and bury the bulbs, leaving the
tops out, as then they keep moist, sweet, and
plump. Some head and tail and put them in
heaps or lay them in sheds, but they are never
so fresh, juicy, and good as they are in the open
earth covered with soil as referred to above.

S. D.

Double cropping of vegetable quar¬
ters. —Greediness led to a trial of this mode of
culture on the vegetable quarters, and we have
to pay very dearly for the experiment. Aspara¬
gus planted in rows 4 feet asunder seemed such
a waste of ground that we must needs plant
Cauliflower and Early Potatoes between the
rows. The result was just what might have
been expected had we exercised a reasonable
amount of thought about it, but then we did
not. Potatoes and Cauliflowers were wanted,
and so was Asparagus, too, for the matter of
that ; but then this, we knew, could not be had
for a couple of years, and in the meantime w’e
would be clever, and have a crop of some other
vegetable, which we got; but the Asparagus—
well, it w'as so injured by the growth and
gathering of the other crops that it might as
well not have been planted. But, after all,
the planting of the Asparagus, if a failure in
itself, has yielded a crop of wisdom, for the
lesson will not be forgotten.

12122.— Lettuce for light soil.— For the
past twenty years my gardening has been with
a light, dry soil, and 1 have tried the leading
varieties of Lettuces, both Cabbage and Cos.
The latter do badly, but I have grown fine
Cabbage Lettuces, and fine Tom Thumb and All
the Year Round succeed the best. This year I had
some very fine large, crisp, white, solid Lettuces,
and with those varieties have usually done
very well. Probably the plants referred to
were Nonsuch, Drumhead Cos, or Neapolitan
Cabbage.—J. P. Law.

-For autumn sowing Hicks hardy white Cos is the

best for summer continuity, and All tne Year Round.—
J. D. E.

ROSES.

PROPAGATION OF ROSES BY CUTTINGS.
I prefer this mode of propagation for dwarf
plantations, which are, as a rule, pegged down
near to the surface of the soil. Plants on their
own roots can be handled with more freedom,
and they will not trouble the cultivator by
starting up “ rogues,” or stock shoots, as
budded plants so frequently do. Roses will root
freely if operated upon in the months of .Sep¬
tember and October by selecting well-matured
growths. Such growths ought to be carefully
chosen, with an eye to preserving a uniform
number of growths on the plant left, while those
detached ought to have a small portion of the
previous year’s growth, which is known in the
profession as “ heel.”

In forming the cuttings, the operator has
first to cut off with a keen-edged knife a portion
of this old wood intended to form a “ heel,”
leaving about £ inch for that purpose. The
cuttings are then shortened back to S inches or
10 inches by taking off their tops, thus making
them ready for insertion. In some localities
cuttings root readily without the aid of protec¬
tion if planted at the bottom of wall in a sunny
part of the garden and the weather proves favour¬
able ; but under all circumstances that process is
assisted by a covering of glass. More especially
is this protection essential where the place is
cold, with a damp, adhesive soil, and the quan¬
tity of cuttings limited. Seeing the risk of
diminishing the number is great in a cold, open
aspect, it is preferable to form a comfortable bed
for them under a glass frame or hand-glass.

The bed ought to be 0 inches deep, composed
of light, fresh loam, river sand, and leaf-mould,
the last ingredients in equal proportions, while
the loam should be present in greater quantities.
Moderately beat the bed to a rather firm con¬
sistency, so that the cuttings are held secure
after bt iog inserted. Plant the cuttings in lines
8 inches apart, and 2 inches between the plants,
inserting them so that three eyes are exposed
above ground. Carefully tread the soil firmly
around the cuttings as the work proceeds, aud
leave the surface trim and neat, after which
give a moderate watering over the whole, and
cover with the glass frame. Ventilate moderately
daily, and shade when the sun shines strongly,
but not otherwise. Nothing further need
be said regarding the attention required,
excepting that a couple of mats should be
used to protect them from severe frost,
but on no consideration should they be kept
covered in the absence of frost. With such
encouragement most of the cuttings will root,
but Tea-scented and some of the Bourbon
varieties are rather stubborn in that process.
However, give them time ; so long as their wood
retains freshness there is vitality in them.
Keep the soil free from weeds and Moss; the
latter is apt to accumulate when left undis¬
turbed by the hoe. With the first indication of
returning spring, allow a judicious , quantity of
water to be supplied by means of a pot provided
with a rose. Keep the bed moist until the
cuttings have assumed the character of plants,
as indicated by their strength, or by the young
shoots beginning to push. When it is ascer¬
tained by their growth that they are properly
rooted, lift them carefully, and plant them at
wider distances ; shade from the sun, and keep
rather close until the roots have retaken to the
soil, when shading must be discontinued, ami
air admitted more freely. Ultimately, the
sashes should be altogether removed. J.

12131.— Roses on seedling Briers —In planting
Roses on this stock the union should just be covered over.
It would be wrong to plant it 3 inches or 4 inches below the
surface.—J. D. E.

12143.— Rose cuttings, &C.—The whole of them had
better be taken indoors ana be placed in a window. If
they are well rooted each plant should be potted in a small
pot. They will pass through the winter much better in
small pots than in large ones.—J. D. E.

12147.— Roses from cuttings.— if a shoot of the
present year is wrenched off with th« hand it will have a
portion of the older stein attached to it. That portion at
the l<ase is technically termed a heel. If the cutting was
cut through about the centre the upper portion would not
have any heel, and would not form roots so readily as the
under pait that had a heel attached to it.—J. D. E.

Culture of hardy plants.—" E. Selby, Yorkshire,’*
will find all needful information in "The English Flower
Garden,” published by J, Murray, Albemarle-street,
London; Gardksino Illustrated, No- 285,286,287- " Ware's
Catalogue of .Herbaceous Plants "will uaSist " E. S.” in his
•election of plants.—J. n,

URBANA-CfHAMPAIGN

<*!

J)

*

Oct. 25, 1*84.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

401

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

CLOVE AND BORDER CARNATIONS.

It may not be out of place to ask, what is a
border Carnation ? The accompanying engraving
Bhows self-coloured flowers only. But the detini-
tion should be as broad and far-rcaching as it is
possible to make it, and should include every
variety that can be successfully cultivated in the
open borders the year round. I have had satis- j
factory proof that a large proportion of our
beautiful flakes and bizarres can be grown all.
the year round in open borders. Many people,
however, prefer seifs, and therefore the selec¬
tion of varieties should, perhaps, be left to those
vrho intend to grow them. To such I should
say have as much variety as possible, and plant
&3 many as there is room for. Much newly-
awakened interest, I observe, is taken in these
sweet and beautiful flowers, and their value as

by the fine displays annually made by them in j
Messrs. Veitch’s nursery, Chelsea, where they |
are grown by thousands and arranged in beds
according to their colours. The finer varieties,
too, were grown equally well in quite as un¬
suitable surroundings in Mr. Dodwell’s little
garden at Clapham. Mr. Dod well used to plant
masses of seedlings, which he also grouped
with good effect in the very limited space at his
command. A certain way of making this good
old English flower more popular would be to
plant large groups of it in the London parks, i
What a grand effect masses of the various
colours would have backed up with evergreen 1
shrubs and in front a broad margin of well-kept
lawn ! Their perfume, too, so grateful and yet
so distinct from that of any other flower, would
also add to their value. In order to get the best
results from a bed of Carnations, they should be
planted in deep, well-manured soil, and the
plants should be left two years in the same place.

summer may have been. The reason is that out
of every ten would-be Fern growers eight allow
their plants to get thoroughly dry at the roots,
a condition from which they never completely
recover. This principally applies to British
Ferns kept during winter under cover out-of-
doors ; exotic kinds, being under glass, are not
so likely to be allowed to become too dry, more
especially as most of the kinds, if not all,
belonging to this latter class are evergreen ;
whereas the majority of British species are
either deciduous, or partly so, and it is on
account of that deciduous character that irre¬
parable harm is generally done. Being in what
appears to be a dormant state, many un¬
wisely treat them year after year like bulbs or
tubers. Such treatment causes the crowns to
grow annually weaker and weaker, and accounts
for their getting thoroughly exhausted instead
of increasing in size and vigour. Instead of
our native Ferns being dried up in winter, it

border plants is fast be¬
coming known. Cobbett
preferred a fine Carna¬
tion to a gold watch set
with diamonds, and
the renowned Sarah,
Duchessof Marlborough
has been frequently
heard to say that “no¬
thing gave her so much
pleasure as the sight of
her Carnations in full
bloom, and which she
preferred to all the
greenhouse plants in her
possession.’’ Besides
her border Carnations,
the duchess cultivated
about two hundred of
them in pots. Old
florists well understood
the value of planting the
Carnation in masses,
which is certainly the
best way to make them
effective, and for this
purpose self - coloured
ones are the best.
Hogg, writing some¬
where about sixty years
ago, say a : “The effect
produced by a number
of Carnations growing
together is undoubtedly
striking.” Further, it is
stated that “ The Clove
Gilliflower, or the true
old Clove, as it is called,
of which w r e hear so
much mention made, if
we may credit the testi¬
mony of very old gar¬
deners, is now lost
to the country. One
flower, they will tell
you, would scent the
whole garden, the per¬

fume was so strong and
powerful.” Whether we
now possess the “true

old Clove ” or not, no L——■
one can tell. And it is
a question whether we
require it, as many of
our recently introduced

seifs and flakes also are clove-scented. Tnat we
have a superior selection of Carnations now to
what existed sixty years ago does not admit of
a doubt.

I A selection of Cloves consi-ting of different
colours should include the following, viz:—
Crimson, and shades thereof: The true old
Crimson, Crimson Pet, (leant des Batailles,
Hindoo, and Sparkler. Purple: Albert, Cre-
uome. Imperial Purple, Lord Rosebery, and
Dmiel Del worth. Scarlet: Coroner, Jupiter,

heifer. Vivid, and Fire-eater. Pink : Annie
Williams, Cynthia, Mary Morris, Mrs. Whit-
tore, and Rosa Bonheur. White: Bride
Hodges), Bridesmaid, Duchess of Connaught,
Tee Governor (blush), Mrs. Matthews, and
V. p. Milner. Yellow: Chromatella, King of
leilows, Lady Cathcart, and Lady Rosebery.

Nearly all these self-coloured Carnations
thrive oat-of-doors, planted in groups and
arranged in colours. They even succeed within
reach of the smoke of p.nd t ni » ttjdrofcd

Group of self-coloured border Carnations.

The Crass, as it is called, should be layered in
August. This is done by scraping away some of
the surface soil from around the plants and re¬
placing it with fine sandy material, and the
work ought to be done in such a way that when
the layering is finished the whole surface of the
bed should be level. If the layers form roots
freely, there will be far too many of them. It
may, therefore, be well to thin them out, when
enough might possibly be obtained to plant two
more beds the same size as the original one, still
leaving enough to form a mass of blooms the
following season. J.

BRITISH FERNS IN WINTER.

The first mistake generally made at this time
of year, and during the next three or four
months, is that of giving hardy Ferns rather too
much rest. Many more plants are lost through
the four or five winter months than during the
rest of the year, however hot and dry the

404

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 25, 1884.

cumstances ia so highly beneficial to them
during winter.

The most successful way by which hardy
Ferns may be kept through the resting period
when grown in pots is to have them put in a cold
f rame and liberally treated with water at the roots,
so as not to allow the crowns to become shrivelled
in the least, taking care to be more liberal still
towards species and varieties not thoroughly
deciduous, such as Polystichum, Blochnum,
Scolopendrium, Poly podium, &c., whose roots
are always active all through the year. I
have seen, only a couple of years ago, a striking
illustration of the benefit to be derived from the
treatment here recommended. Two window
boxes had in spring to be filled with hardy
Ferns, which after growing luxuriantly during
the Bummer and autumn months gradually lost
their foliage and went to rest; these were mostly
dwarf crested forms of Athyrium Filix-fcemina,
and also of Lastrea Filix-mas, sorts entirely de¬
ciduous. Having no foliage whatever left on
them, one box was allowed to get very dry with¬
out being noticed, which, doubtless, they would
have been had the boxes contained any Scolo-
pendriums or Polypodiums. The other box
would undoubtedly have suffered the same fate
but for a leak in the gutter above, which all
through the winter allowed a quantity of rain
water to penetrate to the dormant crowns, which
remained firm and plump, whereas those in
the first box were discovered in spring to be
shrivelled up and nearly exhausted ; their next
growth was weak, whereas that of those con¬
tained in the box kept constantly moist vras
luxuriant and healthy. Pelljea.

Failure of Phloxes. —“ A. B. T.” must
have read a good deal between the lines of my
reply to “Sicnarf” that was not there. My
reply substantially agrees with his as far as
regards the reason why Phloxes become bare of
leaves at the bottom in hot weather. If he will
turn to “Sicnarf’s” query he will see it ex¬
pressly stated that the plants were not allowed
to lack moisture. The immediate cause of the
leaves dropping from the lower parts of the stems
of Phloxes, Chrysanthemums, &c., is a hardening
of the lower portion of the stem. Drought will
produce this, the reason being insufficient
nourishment. But insufficient nourishment may
proceed from root weakness. I have always
found old clumps of Phloxes moved late in
autumn do badly next year, and also that any
mutilation of the roots by digging amongst their,
in winter or spring had the same effect. I have
also found the best way with them is to
strike a batch of fresh cuttings every spring
and plant them out W’hen rooted, allowing
them to Btand on for a second year, only
thinning out the shoots. Plenty of old rotted
manure in the soil, and plentiful watering
in dry weather, they must have. These
remarks refer principally to the newer kinds—
Triomphe du pare de Neuilly, Comtesse de
Castries, Monsieur Bazaille, Mademoiselle de
Gatoniere, &c. Some of the older kinds seem to
stand anything. There are some old kinds in
the border here which have been “ dug about,”
and not “dunged,” for many years, and yet
seem to increase and flower. I quite agree with
“A. B. T.” as to the necessity for digging and
dunging, and the only difference between us is
that “A. B. T.” evidently believes in the old
style of border, with the plants far enough
apart to allow of digging without injury;
whereas I believe in occupying every inch of
soil, so that the spade or fork could not be in¬
serted anywhere without injuring something,
and consequently all the digging has to be done
before the plants are planted, and the dunging
partly at that time and partly by annual top-
dressings. But “A. B. T.” must not assume
that his way is practice and mine is theory
because it differs from his. That savours too
much of the old Scotch clergyman’s explanation
of the meaning of orthodoxy to a young girl who
wished to know what it meant: “Orthodoxy is
just my doxy, and heterodoxy is everybody
else’s doxy.” Some plants quickly make fresh
roots, and in others root pruning seems to stimu¬
late the root energy, but in by far the greater
number the roots are produced at certain periods.
All plants which make a strong root growth in
autumn are bettej: npt moved in ^winter. They
make a considerable growth m spring before any
feeding root fihliQs_li*e Jprodb^ed VJtheae fibres

spring from the old roots, and if these roots have
been loosened or mutilated they are not in a con¬
dition to send out feeding fibres, and the plant
receives a check until fresh roots are formed. I
moved the best kinds of my Phloxes to a new
garden last October, and planted them tem¬
porarily. I had to move them into fresh places
in the beginning of April, they had then made
an average growth of 18 inches. Not one root
fibre had been sent out, the result being that
they flowered badly, but are now sending up
strong shoots in plenty.—J. D.

Dielytra Bpectabilis.— “An Old Lady”
has found this plant tender, as many have done
before her, through misplacing it. Many
plants, and notably Spiraea japonica, fail in our
gardens through belonging to a much more
severe climate than ours, owing to our mild
spells of winter weather starting them into
growth only to be fatally nipped by later frosts.
Our native vegetation is hardy, but much of it
could not stand frost; a little thought as to
natural conditions is all that is required to
enable these plants to be grown out-of-doors.
Frost will not injure them while dormant,
and the proper course is to treat them as
early summer flowering plants, place them in
such positions under low walls or fences that
no sun will reach them from September till
May, let them be fully exposed to north and
north-east winds, frosts and snows, but
sheltered from warm south and south-west
winds and rains. With this treatment they
start late and bloom late, and are rarely far
advanced enough when the last frosts occur to
be injured. I would strongly advise “ An Old
Lady ” to try again under these conditions, and
in a bed of light, rich, well-drained sandy loam.
Where a garden is in a valley, and especially if
surrounded by undrained clay, I should never
advise the planting of anything that is likely to
succumb to a late frost, but in a dry, lively
climate these plants will succeed. The best I
have ever seen was in a garden on the top of a
hill in South Herts, fully exposed to north and
east, there being a valley immediately opposite
in that direction, and no ground on the same
level for nearly two miles, so that the wind had
a full sweep at it. I saw the plant in the spring
of 1880, after one of the most severe winters on
record, when the thermometers in the valleys
in the neighbourhood registered 26 degs. and
28 degs. on several occasions, and my own
garden on the same soil was frozen nine inches
deep for many weeks. The plant when I saw
it was 3 feet high and 4 or 5 feet across. Know¬
ing the conditions under which that plant grew
and flowered, I should never hesitate to use it
as an outdoor plant. Spinea japonica is mis¬
named “ tender” in the same way. A writer in a
contemporary denounced the plant as tender,
as the result of several years’ trial. But how
did he treat it ? He forced his plants into
growth early, got them nicely on, hardened
them off, got them just coming into bloom, and
then put them out into a plunge bed ; of course
the first night frost made havoc amongst them.
At the time they were nipped they would not
with rational treatment have been showing a
leaf-bud above ground. The golden rule in all
gardening is to imitate the natural conditions
of plant growth as closely ;is is compatible
with the indispensable conditions of a garden,
and placing plants where we would like to see
them in total disregard of their requirements
is an equally sure road to failure.—J. D.

Sowing Sweet Peas.— In all but the
coldest districts of England Sweet Peas may be
sown in autumn to stand the winter. Sown in
October they will come into flower at a time
when flowers are not very plentiful, and they
generally last longer in bloom than those sown
in spring. A sowing should also be made about
the beginning of March and another a month
later, which will give a succession of these
lovely flowers all through the summer. Sweet
Peas are so excellent for cutting that they are
worth a considerable amount of care.—J. C.,
By fleet.

Nicotiana afflnis.— “J. S.” makes some
inquiries about this plant, which have been
answered by some person who probably has not
paid much attention to the behaviour of its
flowers ; for, though it is quite true that in the
first instance they unclose in the evening, yet,
if placed in water, these blooms, after about two
days, will not close again, but remain fully

expanded both day and night for at least a week,

I have also observed at midday an occasional
bloom, either quite or partially open, even
during sunshine. I cannot say if the blooms
would remain open on the plant after a day or
two, as they do in water, as mine have been
regularly cut every evening for decoration ; but
as I have j ust potted a large plant, which is still
covered with flowers, I mean to ascertain this
by leaving the blooms uncut. It has not flagged
in the least, and I hope may continue to flower
for some time ; so it seems to me very well worth
preserving, at least one plant, for the greenhouse
in winter. From a very large plant, upwards of
4 feet high, I have lately cut about a dozen
flower stems, perceiving that since the cooler
weather the buds had no longer energy to
expand. These buds are now growing and
opening in a vase of water, exactly as they
would have done if still left on the plant. Ten
are open to-day, at three p m. I mean by-and-
bye to cut down this plant and cover it with
ashes. The climate of Cheshire is, of course,
very different from that of South Hants; but
this interesting and beautiful flower is, I think,
worth a little care.— An Old Lady.

Wintering bedding Calceolarias. —
Where cuttings of Calceolarias are not putin until
the middle of October they will not require any
air much before the beginning of the new year.
As they are generally put m cold frames or
handlights, it is a simple matter to cover them
in frosty weather, but it is not advisable to use
any coverings unless there are signs of frost of
sufficient intensity to reach them through the
glass. During a prolonged frost the covering
should remain on them both night and day untu
favourable weather returns. Our plants in cold
frames have sometimes been covered up for three
or four weeks at a time, and when uncovered
have been as fresh and healthy as could be desired.
We simply put a mat on the frame and then
cover it well up with long dry litter from
9 inches to 12 inches thick, which is sufficient to
keep out the severest frost. In mild weather
after Christmas they will be all the better for a
little air every day, increasing the supply as
spring advances, until it is safe to take off the
lights altogether during the day. About the
end of February the plants should be topped,
pinching off about two joints. This will cause
them to break into growth below, and thus
secure bushy specimens. About the middle of
March they should be carefully lifted and
transplanted either in trenches in which Celery
is to be planted, or in some other position
where they can be protected for a week or two
should frosty weather set in. I find that if the
plants are left too late in the frames they get
too much crowded, and consequently become
weak from want of room.—J. C. C.

Eschscholtzias. —One of the latest and
most beautiful additions to these favourite Cali¬
fornian annuals is one called Rose Cardinal, a
sport from the lovely Mandarin, which has
flowers as large as the ordinary E. califomica,
but yellow within, and of a rich reddish orange
on the exterior. Rose Cardinal has flowers
somewhat smaller, but of a soft, clear, rosy tint,
as delicate in tone as any flower in gardens, and,
like Mandarin, the petals are overlaid with a
satiny lustre that adds so much to the beauty of
the flower. These two Eschscholtzias are
among the loveliest of all flowers, aud the sight
of large breadths of them may be better imagined
than described. Besides these, there is tire
double-flowered E. crocea, of a bright orange
colour; also a white variety of it. The old
original E. californica is still a beautiful plant,
but all must palo before the Rose Cardinal and
Mandarin, which ought to be seen in all good
gardens.

Large bulbs of Lilium auratum.—
According to reports from various parts of
England, home-grown Lilium auratum roots art*
very small and in many cases an entire failure,!
owing to the very dry season. Last October wd
submitted to the editors of the leading gardening
papers samples of our unprecedented bulbs!
stating the secret of home-grown bulbs had beer#
solved; but some of the editors appeared t|
think the roots produced were simply a chaucl
aud challenged ub to produce similar bulbs tb l
season. IWe think we can lay claim to l*9
assertions by sending samples of our home-grnv j
bulBs of this season’s growth, and, taking ii>[
^c|ppgenj$jon_^_|very dry aeaEon, the bulbs m

Oct. 25, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

405

'

exceptionally fine. Weight of girth of roots
sent:—First, 1 lb. 8^ oz., 16 inches in circum¬
ference; second, lib. 5^ oz., 15^ inches; third,

1 lb. 5 oz., 15£ inches; fourth, 1 lb. 5 oz.,
1J] inches.—C ollins Bro*. fie Gabriel.

12034.—Single Dahlias. — Having been
rtry successful with these flowers this season I
bwild like to give my experience. Mine were
wwn in a hotbed in the end of February, potted
ia April, and transplanted in the first days of
.line. The bed was prepared exactly as for
Hoses; the plants had little liquid manure, and
act much water, in spite of the dryness of the
season. They have now been flowering profusely
for nearly four months, and show no signs of
fading. The flowers are large and of beautiful
colours. The plants average fifty buds and
ilovers at a time, but some have many more. I
should like to know if this is an exceptional
success.—2 K’b.

12024.— Dahlias from seed.— They are
easily raised from seed, and the best way is to
sow in warmth in March, potting the young
plants singly, and growing them along freely
until May, and then putting them into a cool-
hoise or frame, gradually inuring them to full
exposure. The single kinds will then flower
the same year if planted out early in June in
well stirred soil; the double ones are better
kept in pots, wintering them therein, and
planting out the following year. If there is no
convenience for sowing in heat, sow in April
in a coolhouse, growing the plants along in pots
through the summer, as they will not be strong
enough to bloom that year. Dahlias are easily
kept through the winter, taking them up when
the foliage is cut off by frost, and putting them
in any dry cool place, where frost cannot get at
them.—J. C. B.

12116.-Dahlias with bad oentres.— A
cross-eyed flower is a bad-centred one, so is one
with yellow stamens showing prominently. The
only way to have a minimum of bad flowers is
to grow only the very best varieties, and grow
them well. The Dahlia likes deep rich soil, and
plenty of space to develop itself. If left to
themselves the plants will become overcrowded
with growths. These must be thinned out.
The Bide growths and side flower buds should
also be removed, leaving only the flower at the
end of the shoot.—J. D. E.

lfHU. -Self-coloured Cloves.— Besides the old
crimson Cove, six good ones are Rride (Hodges), pure
white; Coroner (Barron), scarlet; Mary Morris 'Smyth),
roejpink; Purple Gem (Abercrombie); The Governor
(Crosi); W. P. Milner (Fisher), white, line free grower.—
J. D. E.

— First and foremost I put the old crimson Clove and
the grand white Self Gloire de Nancy; then, say, Mrs.
Teigner (Ware), bright rose, smooth, and thick-petalled ,
W. P. Milner, blush, good ; Mary Morris (Smyth), rich pink
fimbriate, very large and handsome ; and yellow Queen
(Ware), a light sulphur-coloured fimbriate, very prolific and
robust for a yellow variety.—K., Southend.

13013. —Storing 1 Dahlia tubers.— Take them
when the foliage is cut off by frost and place them in a cool,
dry place where no frost comes. Dry sawdust is suitable
for laying them in, and if they were kept in a shod or simi¬
lar place would help to ward off frost.—J. C. B.

12139.— Poppies and Sunflowers.— If “ Amateur
has plenty of seed, sow some Poppy now where it is to
blossom, and more in spring. Plants from autumn or self-
sown seed axe usually stronger and more forward than those
raided from spring-sown seed. The Sunflower seed will do
Ixst sown in spring in a warm bed, or stored in gentle heat
and planted out. Some might be sown where intended to
etand. Do not use pots at all.—J. P. Law.

up

K)l,

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.

Plants that bear crowding. —It is in
teresting to note how singularly different are
some kinds of plants I have noticed, that some
really seem to do best when thickly planted,
whilst the majority of plants to do well need
plenty of space. Take Rhododendrons, for in¬
stance ; they grow away with so much more
reedom when thick on the ground, that, with a
dew of quick furnishing, it is really worth
fiiile to plant thickly and thin out n3 soon as
■tey are likely to get over-crowded. Hardy
'irns are another notable example, for the more
roots get matted together with one another
W greater the vigour of the plants. Hardy
Whs and the Irish Heaths (Menziesias)
the same, and even of some vegetables a
Sater aggregate weight can be had when left
£Hek than if carefully thinned. Onions are,
P*hap3, the best example, for at least double
the weight of produce can be had from non-
tlguned beds than from carefully thinned ones.
Of course I say nothing about size—a point^hat
it knot necessary to consider^When ;icJ *
waned.— vGifllizec by 1

uned ones,
i point that

Glasshouses.

Conservatory. —There is considerable differ¬
ence iu what can bo done in structures that
come under this denomination on account of
the difference in the temperature kept up.
Where the principal occupants are such as only
require, or will bear, a temperature similar to
that of an ordinary greenhouse, anything that
needs more heat cannot at this season be
accommodated. The early flowering Chrysan¬
themums, of which there are several that
bloom well through October ; early blooming
Salvias, of which S. Bethelli is one of the
most distinct and freest flowerers; early
varieties of Epacris, Veronicas, Witsenia
corymbosa, Primulas, Lasiandras, Heliotropes,
Croweas, and Cyclamens will be the principal
things to be depended upon, along with a
selection of light and dark coloured zonal Pelar¬
goniums, which if well managed are much
more useful at this season than in the spring
and summer, when their presence in large
numbers often gives insufficient room for enough
variety. In the way of roof-climbers there is
not much in bloom at this season ; but where
there is a good plant of Habrothamnus elegans,
and the beautiful Mandevilla suaveolens, with
red and white Lapagerias, these four will give
a cheerful appearance to the structure. Such
roof-climbers as are not in flower, and have at
all extended so as to shade the general occupants
of the house, should be well cut in, using
judgment in the work, for if the shoots of all
are indiscriminately shortened, the result is that
a good many never bloom satisfactorily. In
place of this it is much better with all plants that
flower from the ripened previous season’s growth
to thin out and cut away completely such
number of the shoots as will bring the plants
within reasonable compass.

Camellias require more water at all seasons
than most plants with hard wood. If ever the |
soil be allowed to get dry from the time the buds
have attained a considerable size until they
expand, it results in their falling off. The same
result will follow if the atmosphere be too dry,
but injury from this cause mostly shows itself
much sooner in the case of plants having been
dry at the roots. The autumn-flowering Speed¬
wells (Veronicas) require the soil kept mode¬
rately moist, especially while they are blooming,
or the flowers will be liable to drop. Cytiaus
racemosus, Acacias, Neriums, Myrtles, Statice*,
greenhouse Rhododendrons, Lapagerias, Clian-
thus puniceus, Croweas, Cassia corymbosa, and
Abutilons are plants that should never be
allowed to get so dry as the more tender kinds ;
they are free growers, and equally free in pro¬
ducing flowers, afford great variety, and are
altogether much more suitable for those to grow
whose experience is limited than plants that are
of more difficult management.

Lilies. —No further time should be lost in
going over the latest flowered Lilies grown in
pots, dividing them where too many bulbs are
together, and removing the small stem-formed
little bulbs which such kinds as the speciosum
section produce freely on the stems above the
principal bulbs. These, if not annually re¬
moved, directly crowd and impoverish the soil
so much that the whole becomes enfeebled; they
may either be put a few together in pots pro¬
portionate to their size, or if the natural soil of
the locality is suitable for the growth of Lilies,
they can be planted out in the open ground.
This, as a matter of course, applies to sorts that
are plentiful. With scarce varieties it will be
much better to keep them in pots, as under such
conditions, if properly treated, they are more
likely to go on satisfactorily and increase.
Plants of auratum and others that bloomed
early in the summer, and were some time since
potted, should have attention from time to time
to see that the soil does not get too dry, as the
young roots they have will not progress without
enough moisture is present. There is no Lily
so useful for general conservatory and green¬
house decoration, as L. eximium, where the
true variety is at hand, for the reason that it
forces freely; if not already potted, no time
should be lost in getting the plants in. As
soon as the potting is completed all the kinds
should be placed out of the reach of frost,
avoiding putting them under plant stages or
anywhere where they are likely receive drip by
the water running from other plants above them,

keeping the soil through the winter in a slightly
moist condition, beyond which they require no
further attention until the shoots are about to
make their appearance through the soil. Arum
Lilies (Callas) need to have the soil moist;
although it i3 almost an aquatic, it is of such an
hardy nature that it will bear to be completely
dried up without fatal results, though, of course,
it feels the effect of such treatment. Helio¬
tropes, Petunias, Lobelias, Carnations, Salvias,
Lachenalias, Vallotas, and Cyclamens do not
require to have the soil kept quite so moist as
the first-named plants, yet they should always
receive water before being allowed to get quite
dry.

Pelargoniums. —The different sections of
these vary considerably in their demand for
water; the zonals of all colours and the bronze
and white variegated-leaved kinds being mostly
freer growers than the large-flowered sorts, the
fancies, and the tricolors, must have the soil
kept somewhat moister; but those who have not
yet acquired the knowledge of the exact condi¬
tion of moisture these plants like, had much
better err by keeping them too dry than too wet,
as the latter state will cause destruction of the
roots, resulting in disease from which they will
be slow to recover, whilst a moderate degree of
dryness will not effect them to a greater extent
than slightly stopping their growth. The above-
mentioned more tender-rooted, slower-growing
sections, particularly the fancies and the
weakest growing varieties of the tricolors,
should never be watered during the winter until
the soil has got so dry that little moisture can
be detected in it by pressing the fingers on the
surface. There is a considerable difference in
the strength of growth of the yellow-leaved
varieties of Pelargoniums.

Kalosanthes. —These must be watered with
caution until they begin to move freely in
spring, when they will need more ; during the
autumn and winter do not apply any until the
soil has got almost dry, yet water must not be
withheld too long or the under leaves will shrivel
up and die, which detracts much from the ap¬
pearance of the plants, yet does not usually
interfere with their growing.

Auriculas. —These should be carefully looked
over at least once a week, removing all decaying
foliage, weeds, and green mould from the surface
of the pots. Insect pests are still active ; the
worst—green fly—can be readily destroyed by
fumigating with Tobacco smoke. There is also
a pale green caterpillar not easily distinguished
from the leaves on which it feeds that is very
troublesome at this season ; therefore, carefully
Bearch for it and pick it off. The leather-
coated grub, too, will eat the leaves rapidly ;
this and slugs must likewise be sought for at
night with a lamp. Very small offsets put in
late are difficult to winter, unless they are very
carefully attended to. The soil in the pot
should be kept only very moderately moist.
Pull the lights off all frames in which Auriculas
are growing, except when it rains.

Calceolarias and Cinerarias. —In addition
to a moist condition of the roots, these revel in
a humid atmosphere, and should never be placed
on a dry surface, such as the front shelf of an
ordinary greenhouse. Through the winter the
best position for them is on a bed of ashes in a
shallow pit, a slight distance below the aperture
for the admission of air, so that it will, in a
measure, pass over rather than come in direct
contact with them. Where there is no alterna¬
tive but to put them on shelves, it is well to have
1 inch of Moss spread on the shelves, which, if
kept moist, will counteract the drying effects of
the situation.

Flower Garden.

There is now, and will be for some time to
come, plenty of sweeping and raking up of
leaves and rolling to remove worm casts—heart¬
less w'ork, certainly, but in the interest of neat¬
ness and of satisfaction to all concerned it
should be done regularly. Walks that need re-
gravelling or fresh surfacing can also now be
done, aiul all should be freed of weeds and well
rolled down now that there has been abundance
of rain to admit of the roller having full effect
on them. Uneven parts of the lawn should now
be levelled, and any that need returfiug be done
at the first convenience ; ip fact, alterations of
every kind should, whilst the weather continues
so open, tie proceeded with as expeditiously as

p0 ” lble ' URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

406

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Ogt. 25, 1884.

Hardy Flowers.— The ground about the
roots of Pansies and Pinks in beds should be
kept constantly well stirred, and for this pur¬
pose small Dutch hoes about 4 inches wide
answer best. Beyond this they require little
more attention, except to see that the plants
are steady in the ground. The soil should be
pressed round the roots with the lingers, and
some of the plants may be tied to small sticks
to steady them. Slugs and the leather-coated
grubs must be searched for at night. Pinks
for forcing, comprising such sorts as Anne
Boleyn, Derby Day, Lady Blanche (the best
pure white), Lord Lyons (fine rosy-purple), Mrs.
Pettifer, and Newmarket should now be lifted
from the open ground, and potted in good soil.
If the plants are large they should be potted in
5-inch or 6-inch pots, and small plants in 4-inch
ones. Place them in a cold frame near the glass,
where the lights must be kept close for a few
days, and then air may be freely admitted. If
cuttings of Pentstemons have not yet been put
in, no time should now be lost in doing so ; they
ought to be put into fine soil under hand-lights,
either in pots or in the open ground. Our
plants are now flowering freely, and most useful
the blossoms are, as nearly everything else has
finished blooming. If seeds are not required
see that the seed-pods are removed.

Roses. —If Roses be planted at this early
season, they will next year flower just as freely
as old-established plants. In light soil we find
it advantageous to lift all the plants every
alternate year. They are heeled in for a couple
of days or so, till the beds are deeply trenched
and manured with well-rotted stable manure.
The soil is then well firmed by treading, and
the plants at once put in, the roots having pre¬
viously been examined as to the removal of use¬
less portions, suckers, &c. They are at once
staked, tied, and well mulched with Cocoa
fibre for the winter. In strong, loamy soils (the
best description for Roses), the treading must
of course be dispensed with, except just as much
as is needed when planting to keep each one in
position and to ensure the soil being in close
contact with the roots. I have observed that
Roses moved thus early are not nearly so liable
to injury from severe weather as are those not
moved, the reason doubtless being that the check
assists perfect maturity of the wood, the frost
having the worst effect on plants full of sap.
There is one drawback to this early transplanting,
and that is the sacrificing of numbers of flowers,
which by reason of the protracted summer are
this season more than usually abundant; still, it
is better that this should be, than to risk even
the slightest failure at the proper Rose season.

Fruit.

Vines. —Some kind of covering should now
be placed over the main roots of Muscats, Lady
Downes, and other late kinds intended for
winter use or bottling. By this time the Muscats
will have attained perfection, and the other
kinds will be sufficiently advanced to admit of
a general lowering of the temperature to above
55 degs. at night and a few degrees higher by
day, when gentle fire-heat is needed to keep the
atmosphere of the houses dry and favourable to
the ripening of the foliage. Houses in which
the remains of the crop of late summer Grapes
are still hanging may now be cleared with
advantage, as the bunches will keep quite as
well, if not better, in the Grape room. The
vines can then be divested of all lateral growths
and subjected to a course of dry fire-heat to
insure the perfect maturation of the wood. I
Prune successional houses as soon as the

leaves fall, and take advantage of wet days for
cleansing the canes ; also wash or paint the in¬
ternal woodwork and ventilate freely if, as is
too often the case, they are not wanted for
plants. If the earliest house was pruned at the
end of September, and shutting up in November
is contemplated, a course of gradual watering
will now be needful to bring the internal borders
into a satisfactory state before the vines are
excited by the application of artificial heat.
Pot vines which were shortened back about the
same time may also be watered, top-dressed, and
placed in position, and as these do not always
break so kindly as old vines which have been
forced for a number of years, it will be well to
tie down the points before the terminal buds
begin to swell.

Straps room.j^-As the time ii nc
for turning thULrom^^p a 4okiJt^Js

w at hand
iteps should

at once be taken to get it thoroughly cleansed
and ventilated. If 1 may judge others by my
own standard it is by no means improbable that
the bottles remain as they were left last spring ;
if so, they must be taken out and emptied, well
washed, refilled with pure soft water, and re
turned to the racks before the floor is cleaned,
When this has been done a course of steady
firing, with ventilation on fine days to drive or
draw every particle of moisture out of the walls
and floor, will form a very important item in the
successful management of bottled Grapes. In a
preceding paper I have stated that the remnants
of crops of autumn Grapes may be taken to the
Grape room ; but, unless the room is properly
prepared, no amount of care will prevent thin-
skinned kinds from going mouldy as fast os they
are taken in, when the system, instead of the
management, will be blamed. It often happens
that a single vine of Gros Colmar is the last in
a house to be cleared, and the stems of the
bunches being thick and fleshy, they are the
first to go when placed in water; but if sus¬
pended in the driest and warmest part of the
room, immediately over the hot-water pipes,
this fine Grape may be kept till March, and the
quality of the berries will improve daily.
Opinions vary as to the best time for cutting the
general crop of winter Grapes. I generally cut
my Lady Downes the first week in January,
and have kept them until the end of June. The
great secret of success is perfect colour and
ripeness of the fruit and complete rest, or the
nearest approach to it, on the vines at the time
the Grapes are cut.

Hardy Fruit.

When the foliage of Apricots, Peaches, and
Nectarines part readilv from the trees, they
ought to be occasionally lightly brushed over
for the purpose of bringing it down, in order
that the sun and air may have full play on the
trees. Push on planting, lifting, ana root-prun¬
ing, as the present is the best season of the whole
year for suen work, a fact proved by the rarity
with which trees now operated on fail to pro¬
duce a full crop of fruit the following season.
Gooseberries and Currants, being divested of
foliage, may now be pruned. It is usual to
defer the pruning of Gooseberries till spring,
because birds are apt to make an onslaught on
the buds, but if pruning be done now, and if
afterwards the trees are splashed over with a
mixture of soot and lime, with cow manure
added to cause adhesiveness, the composition
will not only be distasteful to birds, but will
kill Lichen and Moss, which usually abound on
neglected fruit bushes. When pruning, select
the best ripened wood for cuttings, which may
be tied into bundles and heeled in to give pro¬
fitable employment in bad weather in preparing
them for insertion, which should be in rows
1 foot apart and about 6 inches asunder in the
rows. All the buds should be picked out of
that part of the stem that is inserted in the
ground, or there is a tendency to produce suckers,
and each tree is always best when grown with
only a single stem. Old plantations of all
kinds of small fruits will repay any attention
that can be afforded them at this season, such
as the thinning out of useless naked wood, sur¬
face forking the ground, and afterwards giving
it a good dressing of well-rotted manure, to be
left on the surface to be washed in by the rains.
Raspberries especially should annually have
such a dressing. Keep the fruit room well
ventilated on every favourable opportunity till
the fruit has become thoroughly dry, but after¬
wards preservative conditions are best assured
by the maintenance of a somewhat confined
atmosphere.

Vegetables.

Winter Onions, now growing rapidly, should
be planted out to check growth ; all kinds of
vegetables to stand the winter in such seasons
as these should be checked. The young growth
is so tender that frost cripples tnem at once.
The time is fast approaching for getting early
Potatoes well and steadily started. Good strong
green shoots have much to do with success,
therefore put in the first lot for that purpose.
The plants in our first house of Cucumbers are
now about 1 foot high ; they are planted on
mounds of earth and leaf-soil. Keep the house
sweet and clean, and the thermometer at 65
dees. in the evening, letting it run up with the
Bun from 10 degs. to 15 degs. before air is

admitted. Tops of Asparagus will now have
turned yellow, and should be removed ; but, as
in other cases of a similar nature, they ought
never to be cut away whilst they have life in
them. If there are any weeds on the beds
they should be cleared away. The beds should
then have their winter dressing applied.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

1*2014. — Picturesque greenhouse. —As
there is no heating apparatus nothing but hardy

S lants can bo employed. Judging from the
ascription it would not be practicable to plant
out in the structure, so that the best way world
be to grow a selection of hardy shrubs and
other things in pots in the open air through the
summer, arranging them in November for the
winter. The following would be suitable:
Euonymuses (green and variegated), Thuja
aurea, Cupressus Lawsoniana, Retinospora plu-
mosa aurea (with yellow foliage), Cryptomeria
elegans, Laurustinus, Sweet Bay, Myrtles,
Periwinkles (green and variegated). Rhodo¬
dendrons, Aucuba, and Yuccas. Then there
is the hardy Palm Chanuerops excelsa, Bam¬
boos, and the New Zealand Flax, both green
and variegated ; also hardy British and exotic
Ferns in great number. All these may be potted
at once. The Periwinkles make fine plants for
hanging baskets when established a year or
two, especially the large golden variegated one,
which is just at home in a cold house through
the winter. By mid April they should go in the
open air again, the shrubs in a sunny place, the
Ferns in shade, attending to them well in the
matter of watering. Dry Cocoa fibre would be
a good material for plunging the pots in, and if
tastefully grouped the appearance will be very
pleasing. In a large winter garden in Germany
the whole of the interior was arranged in this
fashion, being quite empty in summer. A good
roof climber would be Passiflora c«?rulea, the
hardy Passion-flower. Plant in a large pot,
giving good drainage.—J. Cornhill

12125.—Oil stoves.— Twelve months ago 1
got Gillingham’s small stove for my greenhouse,
which is glass all round, save brick wall at
back, and roof sloping to a little east of south.
It is 6 feet wide and 8 feet long. I burnt
paraffin, setting the stove under the front
lattice shelf, and found the temperature usually
maintained 10 degs. above outside. All went
well until in January a dense smoke one night
ruined the best of my plants. I could only
account for this by supposing that a wick had
burned up after it had been left for safe. Bui
serious mischief was done to much that was not
quite destroyed. I persevered, however. In
March, my wife, putting out the lamp by blow¬
ing down the chimney, some way or other made
it explode with a sheet of flame, burning up
Begonias, &c., damaging her own face, and leav
ing a poisonous smell that once more prostrated
the foliage and wrecked our hopes. But I went
ou until in May one morning 1 found the lamp
out and a sickening stench that made all the
plants feel bad, and had choked a few. Apiece
of caked rust had fallen down upon the wick,
causing imperfect combustion for a time, and
finally putting out the lamp. Such is my experi
ence. Yet I believe the “ Gillingham ” is good;
only if paraffin be used the utmost care is needed.
Look at the wicks and always cut off the part
burnt black (not brown), or it will smell badly.
See, after lighting for twenty or thirty minutes, 1
that the wick is not too high, so causing smoke
and never let the oil get quite low, or the bad*
smell will be poison. As to expense, the lamp
burns about a quart in fourteen or fifteen hour*}
when burning as brightly as it can be set; longc^
if the flame be a little checked. If checked mucl^
it will smell. Need I add, brush out the hor»
zontal tube every month, do all you can your,
self, and what another has to do watch wit 11
your own eyes?—E. C. P.

12140.—Heating greenhouse.— It seeir
to me that this is a case in which there is
alternative but the oil stove, as a house 6 feet
feet is almost too small for a hot-wal
apparatus, and if I were in “Tam Glen’|
position I would make the best of the existi
oil stove. He is quite right as to the bad stnj
but “with strict attention to cleanliness, keei J
J /evenly fcriuigie.dj-aujl burning

Oct. 25, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

407

the best oil, this may be reduced to a minimum.
In small houses like this, a blind of frigi domo,
or some such material, pnt up during sharp
weather will keep out a good deal of cold.—K.,

Southend.

1*2135.— Winter plants.— For a house
19 feet by 11 feet I must say that a small hot-
water apparatus would be far preferable to, aDcl
give no more trouble than, a petroleum stove.
The most suitable temperature would be from
40 degs. to 55 degs., varying, of course, accorvi
iog to weather. If you decide upon an oil stove
it would be better to have two smaller ones than
a single large one in a house of the size men
tioned, as the heat would be better distributed.
The makers supply circular evaporating-troughs
with the stoves, which may be filled in dry
weather to produce a moister atmosphere, and
dispensed with when fog and damp prevail. —
K., SouOiciuL

1*2142.—Wintering" Fuchsias.—I adopted
apian for wintering Fuchsias recommended five
years ago in Gardening, and with grand results.
When you take them up, clip the roots round
into a ball, and cut down the stems to within 4
inches of the bases. Put dry ashes at the bottom
of a box, and then store in the plants, filling in
and up with cinders. Then nail on the lid and
put them away wherever convenient, but not in
a damp cellar. Bring them out in the spring,
and gradually expose the plants to light, air,
and moisture, and pot in good Boil. 1 planted
out Fuchsias treated in this way last autumn,
and the flowers this summer have been
enormous.—E. M. H.

121*26.—Wintering plants in frames.
The British Ferns, such as the Hart's-tongue,
Osmund a, <fcc., are best in a frame, or, if space
is short, they will do plunged to the rim of the
pot in the open air in some sheltered place.
Lilies will die down, and only require shelter
from wet. Camellias are quite hardy, also
Hydrangeas, Carnations and Picotees, Pansies,
and Spines. Acacias, Sol&nums, Abutilons,
Lantanas, Ericas, Bouvardias, and Oranges will
be as well in a frame as elsewhere, only they
must not get frozen.—J. C. B.

- In tho comparatively genial climate of

South Wales the Lilies of various sorts, Fuchsias,
hardy Ferns, Acacias, Chrysanthemums, Carnu
tions, Picotees, Hydrangeas, Pansies, Spineas,
Auriculas, and Passifloras might be wintered in
frames, well covering in sharp weather ; but
the others mentioned, such as Begonias, Pelar
gouiums, herbaceous Calceolaries, Cinerarias,
Cyclamen, &c., could hardly be risked out of
the greenhouse.—K., Southend.

-The following would be better in a cold frame for

the winter tfun in a greenhouse, and the pots ought to Ik?
plunged in tome drv material (Cocoanut fibre refuse
iiest):—Lilies, excluding the “ Arums," all the Ferns except
1‘U-ris cretic* alho-lineata, Carnations, Picotees, Pansies,
Chrysanthemums (when they have done flowering), Stocks,
and Auriculas.—J. D. E.

I3Q94.— Lawn sand — I have used the lawn gravel sold
by Messrs Barr and Son—it is perfectly effectual; and if price
is not a great object to "S. Fisher" he cannot do better
than buy some anti use it strictly according to directions.
It destroys the la*g« weeds slowly, thereby avoiding bare
patches.—A. B. T., East Anglia.

12123.— Preserving Everlasting flowers —These
should be cut when in full bloom, but before they begin to
wither. Tie them lightly together in small bunches at the
cud of the stalks furthest from the flowers, and bang them
up. flowers downwards, in a warm, dry room forafewdtys.
They may then be made up into nosegays or stored away
for use, but should be kept dry.—J. P. Law.

12020.—Insects on Geraniums —The only sure
remedy is hAnd-picking. The plants should be gone over
every' day, examining *ho tendrils of the leaves. If you
have any sparrows about scatter some bread-crumbs round
the plants, the birds will come there and will soon find out
the caterpillars.—J. C. B.

12074 - Bindweed.—This is most difficult to eradicate .
If “ Iforos ’* can dig up the ground occupied by them—that
is.it there are no old trees in it—he had better do so, and
l*om all the earth taken out. This will not only de¬
stroy the weeds but prove a good fertiliser. If this cannot
lie done the only way is to cut off every leaf of tho weed
as it appears.-A. B. T., East Anglin.

1J117. —White ftingus —Sulphur will destroy neaily
e.ery species of fungus. If it is white fungus on the out-
*.Je'of wood, deals, or planks, 1 have killed that easily by
painting the affoctod part over with paraffin.— J. D. E.

ilftni. _From Mr. Ware, Ilale Farm Nurseries, Totten¬
ham London, N\- Amntear .—The apparatus mentioned

*«s’all that its makers claim for it If properly attended
V but in careless bands it has sometimes proved a failure.

Names of plants— G. F. C.—Schisostylis coccinea.

_ q 4 ji,jnusa>j .—Gloire de Versailles.-P. 8. Gotlman .—

Hdianthus scabra.- G. Hen '*.—Appears to be identical

Mfe the sort called White Constance.- Forest £atc.

Lejcestcria forinova.- M. rubj

■tampion OOcOCH^+r^l 1 *^ j

J. H. B.— 1, quamoclit coocinea ; 2, Species of Calamlntha.

-Z>. Adtly .—Your Aster is A Nova Anglia rose us.-

F. H.—l, Gory dal Is lutea; 2, Chrysanthemum coronarium;

3, Oxalis eomiculata, \ar. atropurpurea ;4. Phlox aubulata,

a perfectly hardy plant.- r. ll r .—Aster ericoides.-

Mrs. Alexander .—Gaillardia amblyodon.— M. Ellis.— Cal¬
ceolaria violacea.— Fairfonl .— l, Aspidium aculeatum ; 2,
Pteris cretica albo-lincata ; 3, Ptcris serrulata; 4, Not in a
condition for naming.

Names of fruit.— E. F. Griffin .—Large green
Warner’s King ; Yellow-spotted Lord Orosvenor.— Alpha.
—1, Cellini ; 2, Hauwell Souring; 3, Northern Greening;

4. Franklin's Golden Pippin.- D. J. G. —1, Hawthornden ;

2, Golden Noble.- G. C.—Catshead.- G. J. It— Foil

dan to d’Automne.-.V. N.—I, Cox’s Orange Pippin ;

2, Blenheim Orange ; 3, Minchal Crab; 4, Royal Somerset.

- G. W. E.—Not known- J. Sale.— 1, Not known ; *2,

Cellini- H. L. K. —1, Allen’s Everlasting; 2, Not known ;

3. Bedfordshire Foundling ; 4, HanwcH Souring.—./.
Crook. —1, Hanwcll Souring; *2, Not known; 3, Manning-

ton’s Pear main- II. Tov it.— 1, llollandtiury ; 4, Winter

Nonsuch.- \V. II. —1, Dumelow’s Seedling ; S, Minchal

Crab; 6, Searlet Nonpareil.- M. F. 8. (Holywell).—

Gravenstein.- P. 1, Kgg of Paradise ; 2, London

Pippin ; 3, Court of Wick ; 4, Down ton Pippin.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.— All communication.t
/or insertion should ht rVar/y and rrnoisA y written on one
side of the paper only amt addressed to the EniTOS. Letters
relating to business to the Pibmsiikk. The name and
mtdm m of the soider is retjuired, in atldition to any noni
do plume to be used in the paper. An^crr# tn Queries
should always bear the number and title of the orrery
answered. When more than one query is sent ta< h should
be on a separate piece of juiptr owing to the necessity *j
Gardknino going to press a ronsitlerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munication* the ireeJfc they are received. Queries not answered
should be sent to us again.

Naming plants or fruit.— Four plants, fruits, or
flowers only ran be named at one. time, and this only
when good specimens ar>‘ sent . MV do not under tale to
name nuictirs of florists' flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azoletu. as these run only be correctly named
by a specialist trim bo. ii,( noo ns oj comparison <>t hand.
Any communication reejierUitg plants or fruit sent tn
name should ri/ifuys nrrtonpany the jurcr.l. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be nixurafety named should send sever at
specimens •/each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12163.— New Zealand seeds — I have some seeds of
tho following, via. Cordylino australis (Cabbage tree),
Elirocarpus hinau, (Mian' hus puniccus, Mctrosideros men-
tosus (called the Christmas tree), Phormium tenax,
Sophora tctranthcra, P.xlocarpus dacrydioidcs, Vitex
littoral is, Areca sapida, Dolichos, Fern seeds. How
and when should they be Bown and treated7—J. Jb.nkixs.

12164.—Planting black Currant trees.—I have a
large orchard facing south, the uppor portion is planted
with black Currants (that is. under home of the Apples),
about two hundred in number; I propose planting the
lower portion in like manner. How shall I proceed and
what kinds thall 1 plant'/ The slope is towards the south
witli an old brook draining it along the bottom. 1 may
mention that tbe present tice* bear very fine fruit indeed,
but I have only a few' young trees—cuttings from the above.
—Pytciilky.

12166.—Convallaria laponica.—Can any com-
span dent tell me the right way to treat the Con vallaria
jajxuiica, " La plants aux turquoise," in France? I have had
it for some time, but it has only produced a few insignifi¬
cant blossoms annually, and which have withered away
without producing the expected turquoises. It grows veiy
pretty in pots in a greenhouse.—W. T.

12166.— Window gardening —I have a number o*
plants, Geraniums, Pelargoniums, and Fuchsias, in a large
window looking south. They grow well and make good
foliage but do not flower. Can anyono kindly tell me the
reason ? Ferns and ornamental G rasKS flourish well in the
same window.- 2 K’s.

12167. Mushrooms in sheds. I should feel much
obliged to have full instructions as to growing Mushrooms
in sheds, particularly as to the preparation of the manure,
which I understand is very important.—W. If. B.

1216S.— Heaviest bunch of Grapes —Can any
reader tell mu the weight of the heaviest bunch of Grapes
on record?—G. T. It

rim-Comfrey for winter food.—I have heard
or read that the Prickly Comfrey may be kept for winter
food. Is this so? And if it is, what is the process? Is it
mown down and left to dry like hay, and then stored uuder
cover?—J. E. Yosok, llrmpstead.

12170.— Diseased Grapes.— My Grapes are diseased.
There are a few' good Grapes on the bunches, but tho
othere are all shrivelled up. Perhaps someone will be
able to give me an idea of how to remedy this evil.—J. M.
Wilson.

12171 .—Chrysanthemums for church decora¬
tion— Referring to flowers for church decoration in
No. 201, I should bo glad if the writer, “ J. C. B.,” or any
other correspondent, would kindly furnish me with the
names of sonic of the late flowering Chrysanthemums he
refcis to, and also how late they should be topped, so that
they should bloom in December. Thev are for outdoor
cultivation in a very mild climate.—W. M. G.

12172.—Wireworm.—Will any readers kindly inform
ine of any means of destroying wlreworms, which are most
troublesome in my garden f—EXON.

12173.— Storing Beet-root.— In taking up Beet to
keep through the winter, can I store tho root# the same
way os Carrots—vix., in dry sand or straw ; or, if not,
what is the best way of storing it? Also in taking it up,
should I trim off the leaves a day or two before the crop is
lifted ? I had thought of leaving some in tho ground and
covering them ove? with straw, and on that soil laid all
over the bed. Would that succeed?— M B. J.

12174.—Planting large Rhododendron.-I want
l o plant as large a Rnododetidr'n as I can get to serve as a

screen. What aixed hush would it be safe to operate
upon ? Is November the right month to move it? What
is the richest and best flowering kind, and how should the
ground be prepared for it?—N. Y. S.

12175.—Arundo consplcua and Hollies.—I have
a good-sized plant of Arundo connpicua, planted five years
ago. Will it injure it to move it, and if not when will he
the best time to do so? Are there any means of hastening
the growth of Hollies?— Gbi.noo.

12176. — Vegetable Marrows bitter, — In my
garden at Hendon, N.W., 1 have grown some Marrows
which were so bitter that we could not eat them. Can
anyone tell me the cause ?—G. C. C.

12177.—Cutting Willows.—Will any reader inform
me how' soon Willows should bo cut down to a stool to
produce osiers?—E. 1L F. Row*.

1217S.—Camellias.—Should Camellias tie syringed
every morning, and w hat should 1 do to keep them free
from scale? J. E.

12170 —Dividing Fern roots — I have a very large
dwarf Fern, which fii big enough to part into half-a-dozen
good roots Would it hurt it to part it, and when should
it bo done? Any information will greatly oblige.—J. H.

THE

LOADSTONE PARCEL POST

ROSE

COLLECTION*,

Delivered I Delivered

free. Iv] U free.

Contains Twelve named favourite Dwarf
Perpetual Bush Roses; very strong three
year old Plants. Sure to give satisfaction.

Cheques and P.0.0, payable to

J. LOADSTONE

(The Lady Florist).
ROMFORD, ESSEX.

SPRING FLOWERS.

PLANT NOW. PLANT NOW.

The following choice hardy Spring Flowers all at 6d. per
dozen, carriage free. Not less than 3 dozen ot tne hardy
spring flowers sent carriage free.

Alyssum saxatllc

(sweet Alyssum)

Canterbury Bells

(mixed)

Digitalis alba

(Fox Gloves)
Ditto. I very’s spotted

Sweet William

(Carters’ strain)
Pansies (very choice)

Wallflowers (mixed)
Ditto, Blood red

Ditto, New golden yellow
Ditto, Double German
(Is. dozen)

Antirrhinum

(Snapdragon

Brompton Stock

Myosotls (Forget-me-not)

Twelve of each of the above for 5s., carriage free.
Cinerarias, 24 for Is. 0d., extra strong.
Lavender (old English). 12for!k1.

Nicotlana affluis. 12 for 1 b. (note prices).
STRAWBERRY RUNNERS in best varieties, 100 2s. 6d.

N.B.—The above are all strong healthy plants, and
atisfaction is guaranteed. Please note prices.

JAMES LOOMES, The Nurseries,
Whittlesey, near Peterborough.

IR-OSIES.

A SPECIALITY.

E VERY Plant is well-grown, and my Standard,

Half Standard, and Dwarf Hobos ure the finest plants
over offered. A descriptive catalogue post froe on application

FRANK CANT,

Tho Mile End Nurseries, Colchester.

The winner of over 150 FIR8T PRIZES for Roses.

No connection icith any other person of the same name.

WINTER PLANT PRESERVER, new port-

able, £310s., size, 12 ft.liy 6 ft., glazed. - M . 78, Beacons
field Road. Tottenham, L ondon. _

FLOWERS. — Liberal assortment of

Roues. Chrysanthemums, Bouvardias, Marguerites
Maiden hair Fern. Ac., ]«. 6d.. 2s. 6d., 5s., and upwonR
Choice Buttonhole Bouquets, 3 for Is. 2d. Will arrive safe and
fresh.—CRANE A CLARKE. Florists, Haddenbiuu, Cambs.

(TARNATIONS, rooted plants of unnamed but

really good sorts, 3a 6d. doz., to Include one Souvenir
Molmalson. largest white Geum coccineum, year old, Is. per
doz.; Lavender, Is. doz.; Pansies, choice Continental, Is.
doz.; double white Pinks, Is. doz.; 6s. 100.-CRANE A
CLARKE, Haddcnham. Cambs._

"DOSE CUTTINGS, with heel, correctly

- Lt named. Tea and H P. finest varieties, 5s. per 100. Cash
with order —W. CAUI )WELL. F R.H ft . The Ivies. Wantage

'Kilkenny.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

0 V L

408

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Oct. 25, 1884.

Largest Rose Ground s in England

CRANSTON’S NURSERIES.

(.Established 1785 .)

UST O W READY,

Descriptive Catalogue

OF

ROSES

FREE ON APPLICATION.

CRANSTON’S NURSERY AND SEED
COMPANY (Limited).

KING’S ACRE , H EREFO RD._

HYACINTHS.

Cheapest in the trade. Fine Bulbs, guaranteed to give
satisfaction. For Bedding, splendid mixed, double and
single, all colours. Is. 6d. per doz.; ditto, separate, any colour,
named, 2s. per doz. Finest bulbs for pot or glass culture, all
colours, mixed or separate, single or double, 3e. per doz Extra
largebulbs. 3s. 6d. doz. Any quantity supplied. All carriage
free. Narcissus poeticus, 4d. doz. Crocuses, any colour, Is. 3d.
per 100. Tulips, all colours, mixed, single and double, 4d. doz.
Carriage free if scut with Hyacinths. Cash with order. Selec¬
tions left to me may be relied on for a good assortment.—
,1» >li N HISCt)(’K. 13. Florence r id. New Cross. Lond on, 8.E.

ICQQCV ROSE TREES

J l n o £ f fruit trees

Standard Roses, 12s. doz., dwarfs, 9s. doz.

Dwarf Pears and Apples, 18s. doz., tralucd, 24s. doz.

All carriage paid to London. Write for catalogue to
JOSHUA LE CORNU A SON, Queen’s Road, Jersey.

OSES.

A GRAND COLLECTION; rock work shrubs,

all the best; standard ornamental trees, aU the best;
hardy climbers, a splendid collection ; hardy florists' flowers,
including Carnations. Pteonies, Violets, Hollyhocks.

New general Autumn Catalogue of the above and many
other things may be had gratis and post free upon application.
—-T. S. WARE, Hale Farm, Nurseries, Tottenham, London.

COMTE BRAZZA’S

MEW double white VIOLET—White Neapoli-

■Dl tan—very large, pure white, sweetljrscentod flowers.
Without quoation the fines 5 Violet in cultivation. —For full de¬
scription see new catalogue of Roses, Trees, Shrubs, and
Florists’ Flowers, free on application to

THOMAS S. WARE,

Halo Farm Nursery, Tottenham, London.

BULBS! BULBS I BULBS!

I SELL more for a hobby than trade.—Full

list of what I have left on application. Hyacinths for
bedding. Is. 6d.; for pots. 2s. 6d. dozen : choice show varieties,
named, 12, 4s., 24, 8s.. all different, usually sold at 6d. to Is.
each; named Tulips from 4{iL dozen, 2 b. 3d. 100; Crocus
from Is. 100. A very liberal assortment, as purchaser may
iielect, on receipt of 5s., 10s., or 20s.

ROBERT SYDENHAM, Wnoi,K8Am Jeweller,

__ TENBY STREET, BIRMINGHAM.

B. S. WILLIAMS^

IMPROVED

Musliroom Spawn.

Per bushel of 14 cakes - 5s.
The best in the Market.
NEVER FAILS.

Victoria & Paradise
Nurseries,

Upper Holloway,
_ London, N.

R. W. PROCTOR,

Nurseryman, Seedsman, and Florist,
ASHGATE ROAD, CHESTERFIELD.

Established over half a century.

ROSES. ROSES.

These are a speciality in my nurseries. Finest exhibition
of Bedding and Border varieties that can be offered. The
undermentioned prices are for my selection :

Hybrid Pcrpctuals ;. Ga. doz. 40«. loo

Moso Roses .7s. doz.

Hardy Climbing Roses 7s. doz.

Teas and Noisettes .. 12s. doz.

the best scarlet; Novelty, the greatest acquisition in fancy
varieties ; pair of each of these three varieties for 3s. 6d.-
PANSIES, show and fancy, over 300 varieties. 25 cuttings
in 12 named sorts. 2s. : 50 in 18 varieties, 3s. fid.; 25 named
perennial Phloxes, 4s. fid. ; 12 named, li*. fid—Special offer
of beat named Violas on application to R W. PROCTOR
Nur serym an and Florist. A digate L oad. Chesterfield.

OF

-j ----Cbeup offer of Lilies, rare and cheap.

Wild Garden, choap plants. Aura turn; first arrival of this
fine Lily; splendid bulbu. fid., 9»1., la., Is. ttd. each. Trade
Offer, special terms —Catalogue free on application to
WILLIAM GORDON. Tne Nurceiieo. Aroyapd Park Road,
Twiclxnnam. Middlese x. C ity Offic-, 10_Cal1um Street
London, K.C

ARCHIDS.—SPECIAL OFFER

V DUTCH BULBS.—Cbeup offer of Lilies, rare and

Digitized by

Google

■DEAUTIFUL IVIES, gold and silver varie-

gated, six named varieties, for 2s. 6d. Honeysuckles, beau¬
tiful bloomers and climbers, 3 for Ib.-H. WHEELWRIGHT,
Rose Cottage. New S tre et. Oldawinford, Stourbridge.

TROUBLE WHITE ROCKETS, good plants,

. fid- pair «r 2s. doz.. worth double, free for cash.—W.
HARVEY. Willow Boad, Spalding.

jPJARNATIONS and 1PICOTEES.—F. Law’s

^ Select List of the finest Exhibition kinds iB now ready.
My plants are this season strong and in the very healthiest
condition, beiDg cultivated specially for exhibition. Pur¬
chasers may depend upon being supplied with first-class varie¬
ties. Plants, 12s per dozen pairs, cash with order. All plants
carriage paid. List free —FRANK LAW, Kwood Maltkiln,
Todmorden.

HOOPER’S CHOICECOLLECTION of BULBS

and PLANTS, for making showy spring garden, compris¬
ing 12 Hyacinths, 6 Hyacinthus candicans, 100 Crocus, 100
Tulips, 100 Narcissus, 50 Tritelia, 50 Star of Bethlehem, 20
Scillas, 12 Summer Snow flake, 12Sempervivum, 8 each Polyan¬
thus, Canterbury Bells, Foxgloves, Carnations, and Auriculas,
and 4 Crown Imperials. Plantatonce. Price 24s.; half above,
12s. 6d. ; quarter, 6s. 6<L—S. COOPER, Bulb Merchant,
Hadleigh^Suffolk.

TTARDY CLIMBERS. — Clematis, white;

-GL Blue Passion-flower, Japanese Honeysuckle, yellow
Jessamine, white ditto. American Blackberry. Vinca elegan-
tissima, Cotoneaster, Periploca, Pyracanthus (red berried).
Virginian Creeper, New Veitchii (clings to wall). Ivies, and
Eccremocarpus, all good strong established plants, 2 and 3
years old. Is. 3d. each; any three, 3s.; carriage free.—
S. COOPER. Hadleigh, Suffolk.

HANDYTUFT, white, Myosotis dissitiflora,

Saxifraga Wallacei, double Wallflowers, all good plants,
struck from cuttings, 6d. doz«n. Red Daisies (Rob Roy), white
ditto (the Bride , 2s. 100 plants, free carriage.—F. NEW
BERY, Raglan House. Wolve rhampton. _

STRAWBERRIES.—John Powell, finest and

k) most prolific, surpass all others, 3s. 6d. per 100. Car¬
nations and Picoteea, finest show varieties, to name, Gs. to
12s. per dozen. Crassulas, to name, in 60 pots; also Cine¬
rarias. splendid strain; both ready to shift into flowering-
pots, 3s. per dozen.—W. GODBOLD, FloriHt, Ipswich._

STRAWBERRIES.—Sir Joseph Paxton, the

best market variety, combining flavour, size, heavy crop,
and a long succession of fruit. Strong-rooted plants 2s. per
100. 15e. per 1,000; packing 3d. per 100, Is. 6d. per 1,000 extra.
Only good plants Bent. Not less than 100 supplied.—W.
KRUSE, Fruit Farmer, Leeds. Maid stone._

"DLORISTS’ TULIPS for sale, beautiful show,

-1- named varieties, 30s. per 100, or a bed of 50 rows, con¬
taining 350 bulbs, for £5.—G„ Garfield House, Ringstead Road,
Sut ton, Surre y.

A URICULAS, choice named show varieties,

from 9s 6<:1. per dozen. Strong seedling Auriculas, Is. 6d.
dozen. Choice named alpine Auriculas, Is. each. Fine
collection of Phlox, 2s. per dozen.—GEO. W. WHEEL¬
WRIGHT, Oldswinford, Stourbri dge. __

“I HO HARDY PLANTS, including named

Carnations, Picoteen, PinkB, Phloxes, Ac.. 5s.; 50,
2s L 6d^post free.—PETER CRAMB, Nursery. Dunblan e._

Rf| CHOICE PLANTS, is. 6(1., clearance

Ov/ price ; postage 6d. extra. 5 each Carnations, Pico-
tees, Brompton Stocks, Lupines, F. Honeysuckle. Antirrhil
nums, Sweet Williams, Aquilegias. Canterbury Bells, double
German Wallflow-ers, or any of followingSpotted Fox¬
gloves, single Wallflowers. Campanulas. Forget-me-nots. 100,
2s. 9d.; postage free. 9<l. extra.—J. R. FLOWER, Floral
Nureery, Ulley, near Rotherham.

HARNATIONS and PICOTEES, strong plants,

invaluable for cut flowers, extremely floriferom ; from
exhibition strains; all colours, mixed. Also Perpetual Tree
Cam at ions , 25 plants. 2s. 3d., free ; 7 s. 6d 100 . Read on .

CJINGLE WALLFLOWERS, large plants, for

10 Immediate effect, 1 foot high; 2s. 9d. 100; postage, Is.
extra; double German Wallflowers, strong, 50, 2s.; 100.
3s. 9d. Sweet Williams, Carters' Auricula-eyed, intense
crimson, scarlet, white, kc., very handsome, very strung
plants; 2s. Gd. 100; postage, fid. extra.—.!. R. FLOWER,
Ulley, near R otherham .

P R SALE, a Bargain.—A gentleman’s gar¬
dener wishes to disi>ose of a quantity of fine healthy
PLANTS, being overstocked with the Bame. Three dozen
Gardenias, in 6-inch pots, 40 Cinerarias, splendid plants, a
quantity of Bouvardias, Solanums, Libonia Hoributida, winter
flowering Geraniums. Daphne. kc., kc.., and some dozens of
Btove-house table plants. Good specimens. Also an enormous
Stephanotis plant, trained balloon shape, big enough to
cover large conservatory. Will be sold cheap to make room.
—Apply to R. W., care of Mr. Moore, Stationer,^Emsworth.

STRAWBERRY RUNJS ERS.—50,000 Pax-

tons for sale, 10s. per 500.-H. CHAPMAN, Market
Grower, Linkfield Lane. Isleworth, W.

-&KAL “HAARLEM BULBS. — Hyaciuths,

Tw Tulips, Scillas, Crocuses, Snowdrops, Liliums, Anemones,
Narcissus, and Ranunculus, at lowest prices. Catalogue on
application. Captain Bradshaw, R.N., C.B., says*' I never
saw so much beauty at so small a cost.” Speciality collections
at 5s., 10s. 6d., and 21b —HUGHES, Market Place, Abingdon,
Berks. __

TOO ORNAMENTAL AND FLOWERING

-LUV/ SHRUBS for 7s. 6d., carriage paid; height. 9
inches to 3 feet—to include Junipers, Euonymuses, Veronica
Traversii, Ac. -HENRY it CO., near Ainersharn, Bucks

T APAGERIA ALBA, 7a. Gd. each; L. rosea,

•Ll In. Cd. each ; Stephanotis, Is. 9d. ; Gardenia intermedia,
Is. 3d. ; Jasminum grandiflorum, Is. (all fine Iplants from
4»’s. clean and healthy); Maranta Mackoyana and Cypri-
pediuin insigne, Is. each ; winter-blooming Begonias, four.
Is. 3d.; all carriage paid. See last week’B advertisements.—
HENRY k C( b, near Amershani, Bucks.

CJTRONG STRAWBER RY RUNNERS^

Stirling Cattle (early), Sir J. Paxton, British Quern, free
by parcels post at 2s. 6d. per 100. -J. EDMED, Newington,
S ittingbou rne_

CHEAPEST HOUSE for GARDEN REQUT-

SITES.—Cocoa-nut Fibre Refuse, 4-bushel sack. Is. 3d.;
10 sacks, Us ; truck, loose, about 2 tons, 30s. Black Fibrous
Peat. 4s. Gd. per sack, 5 for 20s.; Backs, 4d. each. Best Brown
Fibrous Peat, 5s per sack. 5 for 22s : r>acke, 4d. each. Coarse
Silver Sand. lr,. 3d. per bushel. 13s. half ton. 24?. ton : in 2-bushel
hag.?, 4d. each. Yellow FibrouB Loam. Peat-mould. and Leaf-
mould, lr per bushel; Sphagnum Moss. 6s. 6*1. per sack.
'Garden Sticks, Manures. Tobacco (doth. Paper, Virgin Cork,
Russia Mats, kc. Write for price liat.—W WARREN.,
k, Whitecross Pia'o, Wilson Street. Fin«bafy, E.C.

ROSES. OWN ROOT ROSES.

12 HYBRID PERPETUALS,
such as A. Colomb, O.
Lefebvre, D. Jamain. La
France, Magna Charta. E.
Y. Teas, kc., 7s. 6d., carriage
paid.

12 OLD BLUSH CHINA,
grand free-flowering variety,
alwayt in bloom, 5s„ car.
paid.

12 MONTHLY ROSES, 5s.
These ought to be planted
in preference to so many
annuals; they are con¬
stantly in bloom during
summer and autumn, and
give no trouble after plant¬
ing, 25 9s , car. paid.

6 CLIMBING ROSES, fart¬
growing hardy varieties,
blooming in large clusters
admirably adapted for cut¬
ting, suitable for anysitm-
tion, 3?. Gd., car. paid.

12 FAIRY ROSES, splendid
bushy plants, make beauti¬
ful beds, constantly in
bloom, should be planted
everywhere. 3s. 6d.. car. paid.

12 MONTHLY ROSES, for
forcing into bloom this
winter and spring. These are
most useful for early work,
yielding quantities of bloom
6s., ca-. paid.

Thirty
First Prizes
in 1884,

ROSES

and Silver Cup
(value £5 5s.)
for 48 varieties.

100 extra strong Exhibition Roses, best that money can bu>\
including all the leading varieties, 50s.; 40 plants, 21s.; 12, 7s
Send for catalogue, or come and see the plants.

HARKNESS & SONS,

The Grange Nu rseries, B e dale, Yorka.

rPO BE SOLD, a large quantity of very choice

-L surplus hothouse plants. Palms, Ferns, kc., the accumu¬
lation of years at the greenhouses, Alexandra Park, X.
—Cards to view to be obtained from C. J. HAYTER, 1,
Drapers’ Gardens , Throgmorton Avenue, E.C. _

"DOSES.—Very large and strong plants of the
-Lb best and moat effective kinds only, including extra large
Gloire de Dijon, 9s. per dozen.—R. KIDSON, Rose Fans,
Claughton on Brock, Garstang . _

SPECIALLY CHEAP CLASS.

Packing Cases free and not returnable.

100 squares glass at the following prices :—

15 oz.

13$ by 8 for 10s. Od.
12 by 9 ,, 10s. Od.

14 by 10

15 by 9
12 by 12
15 by 12 .
18 by 12 ,
20 by 12 ,

13s. 6d.
13s. 6d.
13s. Gd.
19s. Od.
22s. Od.
25a. Od.

21 ox.

13 J by 8 for 14s. Od
12 by 9 „ 14s. Od.

14 by 10 „ 21s. Od.

15 by 9 ,
12 by 12 ,
15 by 12 ,
18 by 12 ,
20 by 12 ,

21a. Od.
21s. 0.L
26s. fid.
32*. Od.
40s. Od.

300 squares 15-oz„ 8 by 6, or 250 squares, 81 by 6$, or 220
squares, 91 by 64, or 170 squares, 9 by 7J, or 150 squares, 10 by
8, for 10 b. 6a.

Putty, Id. per lb.; Paint, ready mixed. In lib., 2tb., 41b., ar»J
71b. tins, at 5d. per lb. Other Bizea of glass quoted for
application. All glass packed in own Warehouse, seldom ai y
breakage. Intending purchasers will oblige by makin g their
frames to suit the above sizes.

HENRY WAINWRIIjHT,

Wholesale Glass Warehouse,

8 k 10. ALFRED STREET. BOAR LANK. LKEDA

GARDEN REQUISITES.

flOCOA-NUT FIBRE REFUSE, Is. 3d. prt

L/ hag; 10 bags for 12a.; 30 for 80s.; truck load, free on
rail, 30s.; Best Brown Fibrous Peat, 5a. per sack, 5 for 22 b. 6d ;
Black Fibrous Peat, 4s. Gd. per sack, 5 for 20s.; Coarse Silver
Band, Is. 6d. per bushel; Yellow Fibrous Loam, Leaf, and
Peat Mould, Is. per bush. Potting and Bull) Composts, la <<1-
per bush.; 5 b. per sack. Russia Mats of every descriptive.
Artificial manures. Garden Sticks au<l Labels. Tobacco Cloth
and Paper.—Write for price list.—W. E. WARD A CO.,Voh.n
Chambers, Wormwood Street, London. E.C.

Genuine Garden Requisites,

A S SUPPLIED TO THE ROYAL GARDENS,

the leading Gentry, and Florists of the United Kingdom,
Cocoa-nut Fibre Refuse, best only, 1 b. 6d. per sack ; 10 for 13f>.;
15 for 18s. ; 29 for 22a.; 30 for 30s., sacks included. Truck,
containing more than two tons, free on rail. 33s. Selecud
Brown Fibrous Peat, 5s. per sack ; 5 for 22s. fid. Black Pe»t
4s. Gd. per sack: 5 for 20s. Coarse Silver Sand, la. 6d. per
bushel; 14s. half ton; 25s. per ton. Yellow Fibrous Loau>,
Leaf Mould, and Peat Mould, each at Is. per bushel
Sacks and Bags 4d. each. Fresh Sphagnum, Ss. 6d.
sack. Manures, Garden Sticks, Labels, Virgin Cork, Russia.
Mats, Raffia, Prepared Compost, Fertiliser, Ac. F'-t
TOBACCO CLOTH, 8d. per lb.; 28 lb., 18s. SPECIALITY
Tobacco Paper, lOd. per lb. ; 28 lb. 21s. Price List on applica¬
tion.—W. HERBERT A CO., 2, Hop Exchange Warehou
Southwark Street, London 8.E. (late 19, New Broad 8tre-

ir Street, I

TVTOW IS THE TIME TO PURCHASE

ri POULTRY for STOCK and EXHIBITION PPK
POSES.—Mr. ROBERT R. FOWLER. Prebendal PcmJtry
Farm, Aylesbury, will send DINSCRIPTIVE CATALOG 1'K
oi the Thirty-seven DISTINCT BREEDS kept byhim, r-h
“ HINTS ON REARING AND MANAGEMENT. Ac.." fn
receipt o( stamp, to any address A grand lot of birds now f"»
Bale, and some cheap bargains;__

H umble bees for new Zealand.

Ijargo Queen Humble Bees wanted. _ls. each will 1 ■
given for them. Each queen should be put in separate
packed in Moss.—Address S. J. BALDWIN, The Apiai .

Bromley, Kent. ___

CLATHER Honey from your Flowers. —
vT “THE APIARY,” 5s. (postage 5<L). By Alfred Neigh¬
bour (Geo. Neighbour k Sons, 127, High Holborn. W.C.), 14'\
Regent Street, W. Vide advfc. in Garden and Gari'KMKh
from March. Ac _

pOCOA'-NUT'FIBRE REFUSE. —Best anility,

V-J as supplied to the principal Nurserymen and the Noblli’ .

Is. per bag; 15 bags, 14s.; 30 bags, 25s. Sent to all pari
Truck, loose, 25s., free to rail. Beat Loam and Peat.—A.
FOULON, 32, St. Mar® Axe._

T C. STEVENS, HORTICULTURAT

V • BOIENTIFIO, and NATURAL HISTORY BAI.E
ROOMS. 38, King Street, Covont Garflen, London. Es f
bllshea 1W0. Hales by auction nearly every day. O^taloy'-* i

on application or post free. __

n.ARDEN Staked, Labels, Virgin Cork, Mate, J

D Raffia Afc. Nous cheaper.-rWATr.ON -*r,d 8CTTI.L, J
&0.^werTliiaines-f.trFA. london. BliC. I -J A 1 , |

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENIN'G ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

NOVEMBER 1, 1884.

No. 295.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

THE NEW HOLLAND VIOLET.
(erpetion reniforme.)

The New Holland Violet ia a dainty little
trailer, and well worthy of culture. It ia not
very showy, perhaps, but yet so distinct from
other alpine or “ rocky gems ” that it well
deserves a sheltered corner and careful attention
in all gardens wherein plants of an interesting
—albeit not glaring—character are appreciated.
Planted out in a suitable position in May or
June, this plant soon makes itself at home in
any light, rich, gritty soil; either sandstone or
granitic formation seems equally suitable to it,
and during hot, dry weather one must needs
treat it to copious artificial showers. Wherever
it luxuriates increase by division is easy, but if
there is a slug in the garden it is sure to do its
best to destroy every leaf and young growth.
Although quite hardy in most localities, yet it
is best to keep a plant or two in pots in a cold
frame in case of accident from nocturnal slugs
or a too scathing climate. Its pretty little
Violet-like blossoms are freely produced on
well-established plants, being
borne above the kidney-shaped
leaves on the slenderest of stalks.

For dainty little plants of this
kind one almost requires a special
bit of rockwork—an islet, in fact
—so that one might the better defy
the hungry snails. Then one
might the more freely venture to
plant out our choicest treasures,
along with Campanula liaineri,

Primula minima, Dianthusalpinus,

I). glacialis, Parochetus communis,
the most delicate of Androsaces,

Eritrichum nanum, and a hundred
and one tiny morsels of choice
alpines, each and all of which are
floral jewels of the brightest—

“ things of beauty ” which slug and
snail alike seem to have determined
shall not be “ joys for ever ” in our
gardens. B.

late years what are unusually termed border a little shelter from late spring frost is advisable,
Carnations—those simply grown for their own an attention which they well repay.

natural beauty—are much more sought after
than formerly. The old crimson Clove and the
new white continuous flowering Mrs. Sinkins
are now grown as extensively as bedding Pelar¬
goniums, and if propagated at various seasons
of the year there is no difficulty in getting a
succession of bloom from them. I have at pre¬
sent a quantity of the old crimson Clove in bloom
and in bud in the open air ; in fact, looking
more like July than November.

Pentstemons and Phloxes of the taller
growing kinds are first-rate for filling vases and
for other indoor floral decorations where bold
spikes of flowers are required. They will grow
in any fairly good garden soil and do well in
rows about 2 feet apart. Seedling Pentstemons
from a good strain may be relied on to produce
most beautiful spotted and marked Foxglove-liko
flowers. In Hants they stand the winters
well, but in northern counties a supply of young
plants should be sheltered by glass in case of the
old plants being injured. Planted out in beds
of good soil in April, they will flower out-of-
doors until frost stops them.

FLOWERS USEFUL FOR
CUTTING.

It is a general complaint amongst
owners of gardens that they cannot
get flowers enough for cutting.

They cannot get much from the
flower garden bedded out in the
orthodox style, for carpet beds and
sub-tropical plants yield nothing,
and the ordinary flowering plants
but little that is suitable for vases
or bouquets ; the ever-increasing demand for
cut flowers can therefore be but inade¬
quately met, even in large gardens, unless
hardy plants are grown specially for the
purpose. The best plan is to have a portion of
the stock set apart for cutting—plants which
one knows will yield a good succession of bloom.

Roses come so naturally to the front that
they must be first on the list. They have no
rivals &b regards the length of time during which
they continue in bloom, and their suitability for
button-hole and other bouquets cause them to be
prized whenever procurable. There is no need
for giving here cultural directions as regards the
Rose, for they have been given abundantly in
Gardening. - The only thing for those who
are desirous of having plenty of cut flowers, and
more especially of buds, is to ignore the finest
exhibition Roses and select from those of which
mention is seldom made, especially the Moss,
the Chinas, and the Teas ; some Hybrid Per¬
petuate, too, that are not faultless whenexpanded,
such as General Jacqueminot, are beautiful in a
half expanded form.

Carnations, Cloves, and Picotees are in their
season scarcely inferior to Roses ; their exquisite
perfume and long kcepip'g^properties mtjkejbhem
of the highest value fofr thf^bfr qi

The New Holland Violet. (Drawn in Messrs. Pauls’ Nursery, Broxbourne.)

Lilies of various sorts, and especially the
hardy white Lilium candidum, are especially
valuable in a cut state ; their spikes look well
placed in vases entire, and single blooms make
effective subjects for church decoration. I find
that by planting the bulbs amongst fruit bushes
where they get partial shelter and shade the
season of flowering is prolonged. Lilies like an
open, porous soil. In this locality nearly all
the hardier kinds flourish in our naturally light
soil without any special preparation, while the
varieties of lancifolium, auratum, and others
that are usually grown in pots under glass do
well planted out in sheltered positions where the
wind cannot get a full sweep of them, or they
arc liable to get snapped off at the base.

Aquileoias are plants of the easiest possible
culture, and their blooms are excellent when cut.
Planted at this time of the year in any ordinary
good garden soil in beds about 2 feet apart, they
will send up a succession of beautiful flowers for
a length of time.

Marguerites, or Paris Daisies, are now so ex¬
tensively grown that but few gardens are without
them. They are of the easiest
culture ; either sow seed of them
or propagate them from cuttings
early in March, and plant them
out in good rich soil in April or
early in May ; thus treated, they
will flower continuously until sharp
frost cuts off all outdoor flowers.
They withstand a good deal of
rough weather, and yield plenty
of flowers after tender summer
flowering plants are cleared off.
Campanula persicifolia alba is also
an excellent plant for filling the
cut-flower basket. It grows freely
in any soil. If the roots are parted
at once plenty of flower-stems will
be forthcoming next year.

Wallflowers and Stocks are
both so fragrant and suitable for
cutting that everyone should grow
them for that purpose. Both the
single and double Wallflowers are
equally good, but the old double
yellow and red are getting scarce.
They should be propagated by
means of cuttings put in under
hand-glasses in the latter part of
summer. The clear yellow and
blood-red should be sown in
February for flowering next spring,
and some sown as soon as the seed
is ripe, and planted out early in
spring, will usually flower freely
I have

in autumn. I have a quan-
Pyrethrums and Delphiniums. —Of these tity at present in full bloom, a small bunch
the former have been so much improved of late of which will perfume a whole house with a
years that it is difficult to realise them as the [ scent scarcely inferior to that of Violets. Stocks
descendants of the Pyrethrums of only a few of the dwarf branching kind which are especially
years ago. Their colours are distinct and well valuable should be sown in pans or boxes, and
varied and the blooms of faultless shape, with transplanted where they are to flower os soon as
good long foot stalks. The Delphiniums yield they are large enough to handle. Gladioli and
striking flowers for floral decoration, and the 1 Dahlias, the latter both single and double,
scarcity of really good blue blossoms renders ■ arc very valuable in a cut state, the singlo
them all the more valuable ; roots of them should Dahlias that are so easily raised from seed
be planted at once in any good garden soil, and | having quite eclipsed the double kinds, but the
if the earliest spikes of such kinds as D. for- small Pom pone varieties must not be overlooked,
mosum are cut directly they expand, a succession They look well when cut. Gladioli, too, with
of smaller flowering shoots will pushup from their stately spikes of varied colours are amongst
the root. It is allowing them to form seed that the most gorgeous of hardy flowers. They
makes their flowering season short lived. succeed admirably amoDgst Rhododendrons in

P.f.ONlEB of both the herbaceous and tree beds of light, porous soil. The shelter of the
varieties furnish grand flowers for bold arrange- i shrubs suits them perfectly. Good bulbs may
ments ; they are plants of easy culture ; the j also be planted in beds in the reserve garden,
roots should be planted now when they are ■ where they will yield fine spikes for cutting,
dormant. The herbaceous kinds have large' Sweet Peas, treated as annuals or, better
roots, like those of Rhubarb, and the crowns still, os biennials, are amongst the best of plants
arc already showing signs of growth; if for yielding a continuous supply of cut blooms,
left until spring they do not make nearly such If sowing them in autumn has not yet had a
good plants as if got in during autumn. The trial I would recommend them to be 6own at
tree varieties called Moutans have very beau- once. Sow rather thinly in a sheltered spot,
tiful flowers, in Boft shades of colour ; they start and. as soon as they pepp through Hie soil cover
id of into growth very early in spring, and therefore them with coal ashes ; put some bushy stakes

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

410

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 1, 1884.

to them, and keep their flowers gathered closely,
as seed-pods soon bring their flowering season to
a close. Irises of various sorts are also very
beautiful both in form and colour. They should
be planted at once in any fairly good soil.

Tritom a Uvabia and Sfir.eas are both
useful, especially the Spirieas for supplying cut
bloom. In the case of the Tritoma divide the
clumps now, and give the roots a little protec¬
tion in the event of severe frosts, when plenty of
good spikes of flower will be the result. As to
the Spineas, their feathery plumes are very
graceful. S. Filipendula, S. palmata, S.
japonica, and S. Aruncus are all well worth a
place in gardens, their foliage being almost
equal to that of Ferns for garnishing.

Daffodils, Jonquils, Lilies of the Valley,
and many other bulbs should be grown in
quantity for the sake of their flowers. When
once planted in good soil they last for many
years and increase rapidly. Anemones, both
spring and autumn flowering, are likewise
indispensable, the beautiful A. japonica being
still in fine flower out-of-doors.

Chrysanthemums have but few rivals at
this time of the year ; they make decidedly finer
plants out-of-doors than with their roots cramped
m pots. The best plan to guard against early
frost is to grow them in positions where some
shelter can oe placed over them, as the beauty
and purity of the whites and the delicate shades
of other colours are soon marred by frost and
heavy rains. I find cuttings struck in March
and planted out in May make very fine bushes,
without any of that attention which plants in
pots require. If some can be lifted and replanted
in cool orchard houses they will bear the transfer,
if done carefully, without any danger or scarcely
showing signs of having been removed. Any
elaborate thinning of buds is not required in the
case of plants grown for cutting.

Christmas Roses, from their blooming in
mid-winter, should not be forgotten. Good
clumps of them planted in sheltered positions
yield pearly-white buds that should be gathered
before they expand, as they open perfectly well
in water, and are of better colour than when
left to expand on the plant. If planted in open
or exposed positions, a hand-glass or cloche
should be placed over them, as soon as the flowers
show themselves above ground. H. niger
maximus is one of the best in a cut state. The
above really good plants anyone can grow, and
they will be sure to yield plenty of flowers for
cutting. J. H.

SAXIFRAGA (MEGASEA)
PURPURASCENS.

Early in autumn the leaves of this become
beautifully coloured. Handsome even as the
spring flowers are, to my mind they are not
nearly so effective as the autumnal tints, and,
what is more, in the cultivation of this Saxifrage
two quite different methods should be followed—
for flower and leaf effect. To have the former
it is needful to plant it in a well-drained, rich,
but sandy loam in the sunniest situation, leaving
the plants alone for years, as, according to my
experience, even good sized roots are two or
three years before they produce their bulky
flower buds, and the more matured they get in
this respect, the less the leaf development both in
size and number. Plants treated for foliage effect
have quite a different appearance, and during the
early season of growth might almost be taken for
Mcgasea ligulata. Plants but a year old mako
leaves the size of a man’s hand. What a rich
autumn bed these would make ! the sombre green
turning yellow, then a striking vermilion, with
the additional attraction common to glabrous
foliage of a leathery substance. These young
plants are destitute of the legginess of blooming
stools, the leaf stalks springing from the soil.
Where there are several old plants to cut at, a
stock for bedding purposes might soon be secured,
a statement which may appear strange to many
who look upon it as exceedingly rare and costly
and difficult to manage.

Tops cut from old plants just as they begin
to grow in April, with an inch of stem, packed
closely in a pot of sand, and pluDged in more
sand in a place sheltered from drying east winds,
become well rooted in a month, and may’ be
potted singly and brought into the sunshine in a
week or so. Young atcM^k thus obtained have
grown like young Caf bag<w,f nd hMlffotir and
six good-sized and w Alci lkiircd leWeiShe first

autumn. Moreover, in the meantime the old
plants will have broken at many joints on their
somewhat long stems and surface-creeping roots.
Of these, as many as can be got may be cut off
with an inch of the thick stem attached, and
treated like those struck in April to be potted
early in autumn. Those off the rooted stems, if
with ever so little root attached to them, may be
potted at once in rich, sandy material. In cutting
up the stems, too, for these pushing shoots, other
Bhort lengths of an inch or so will be found ;
these may be inserted an inch deep in sand;
plunge the pan also in sand in the full July sun¬
shine, and they will start like Potatoes, and they,
too (a fourth supply from the old stools still left
growing), may be potted before cold weather
sets in.

Under such treatment in the warm part of
the year, with clean, sharp sand for the roots to
strike into without check from stagnant moisture
or ground pests, there is no more difficulty in
increasing this rare and beautiful Saxifrage than
any other of the Megasea section, all of which,
one may say, are not’d for free growth. It may
also be added that, as in the case of the whole
section and that of many other herbaceous
plants, this becomes all the more vigorous for
frequent transplanting or propagation, and the
advantages as regards the leaves are their earlier
and larger growth and greater certainty of a full
period of leaf coloration. Here in Yorkshire old
plants, of which 1 have long had one, always
seemed behind time, the frost cutting the foliage
before it had well begun to colour. This reminds
me of the doubts which some entertain as to the
hardiness of this Himalayan species. I have
always found it to be perfectly hardy ; the severe
winters of a few years ago never hurt my old
plant, and youDger ones planted in 1880 have
only suffered as many other things do ; none
were killed. J. W.

THE PLANTING SEASON.

The sere and yellow leaf which shows that the
growing time is past also indicates the proper
moment for planting or transplanting such
plants, trees, and shrubs as it may be desirable
to procure or remove. And let me advise any
of your readers who may have such operations
in view, to “ seize the passing moments as they
fly,” and get their plants fixed in their new
quarters ere winter comes in with chilling rains
and griping frosts to sodden the soil and extract
from it the warmth which it has gathered from
the summer sun. Even through November
there is a latent warmth in the earth which
suffices to excite root productions, and, unless
the season be of unusual inclemency, anything
transplanted during that month will begin to
push forth fresh fibres ; but if you delay the
work until the latter end of December or
January there is absolutely no chance of the
roots grasping the earth again until the sun
once more exerts its stimulating influence upon
them, so that through the winter they have to
contend against hard frosts and biting winds,
whilst in a great measure deprived of the means
of resisting these adverse influences. Therefore,
take time by the forelock, and ere the ground
becomes cold and sodden endeavour to get
everything into its appointed place. It may be
safely affirmed that in nine cases out of ten
sufficient labour is not bestowed on the previous
preparation of the soil. Many seem to imagine
that it suffices to first dig a hole about large
enough for the roots, and that in doing thus
much they have done all that could be well
expected of them. Then when their Roses
linger and die, their Apples do not increase
much in size, and their flowering shrubs and
hardy flowers generally render but a scant
measure of beauty, they wonder what is the
matter, and finish by saying, “My soil isn’t
good enough ”—when the want of a little hand
delving is really the root of the evil. What
do our great Rose exhibitors do when they
wish to produce blooms of size, substance, and
perfection of colour? Why, they stir their
ground some 2 feet deep, and well manure it,
and w'e must all do something of a like nature
if we wish to obtain vigorous development in
combination with longevity. Floriferousness
and beauty of form can only come from robust
1 health, and this is ensured by a free east run
in congenial soil. When I see a hole about a
foot square dug in a Grass plot for the
reception of a Rote, I wonder at the short¬

sightedness of those who imagine that
that Rose is going to reward them with
a plenteous harvest of bloom. For a year
or two it may do pretty well, but there
speedily comes a decline in vigour with an
almost total loss of blooming power. How
can it be otherwise ? There is no great space
for the roots to ramble in, and a great deal of
what they might otherwise have is appropriated
by the Grass above them. When Roses are
planted on a lawn the soil should be taken out
quite a yard in width and 18 inches or 2 feet in
depth, or the top spit should be taken out
and the bottom well forked over and broken,
adding plenty of good manure, mixing some aa
well with the remainder of the soil, when the
hole is filled in. Do not spare the manure, for
Roses are gross feeders ; it is really surprising
what an amount of rich food they will consume,
and better far plant a few well and see them
thrive than to set out a quantity and witness
their premature decline.

The same remarks apply to fruit trees ; there
is but little chance of their acquiring any great
bearing power if the planting be not thoroughly
done. More than twelve years ago an orchard
was planted in this district. For the first six
or seven years the trees made scarcely any
progress; many of them, indeed, seemed
smaller, and some failed to retain their hold on
life. A more miserable, stunted-looking lot of
trees I never saw, and even now they look
scarcely capable of bearing a good fruit. Their
history is that of many fruit trees. They were

C lanted on a piece of pasture land, which had
een laid down to Grass many years, and which,
in all probability, had never been stirred to a
greater depth that 5 or 6 inches, which is
about as deep as the plough, in a general
way, goes. No greater preparation of the soil
had been made than that involved by excava¬
ting sufficiently to make room for the roots, the
consequence being that the trees never could
6tart well into growth, but remain a standing
reproach to the planter and a warning to the
inexperienced. Even in the planting of such a
common, free-growing thing as Quick a deeply-
delved and well-enriched soil is a necessity if a
good boundary fence is to be obtained in a few
seasons. Any practical planter will tell you
that a cattle and chicken proof fence 4 feet in
height in the course of three or four years from
setting the plants is quick work, but I have
known it done. When the proprietor of an
estate wished for a considerable extent of
Quick hedges, and was asked for dung
for them, ne exclaimed, in astonishment—
“ What, dung for Quick ! I never heard of
such a thing.” When he saw, however, the
rapid growth of the first hedge or two that
were planted he altered his opinion, and then
said—“Be sure and take plenty of dung.”
Hardy herbaceous plants, now finding Buch
favour, form no exception to the above remarks,
which should rather in their case receive addi¬
tional emphasis.

Many plants which, of their nature, flower
freely and continuously are deprived of the
power of so doing by improper planting.
Delphiniums, Phloxes, Japan Anemones, Cam¬
panulas, Ac., parch and dry up and fade away pre¬
maturely, because the poor roots arc starved and
cannot get away from the fierce rays of a summer
sun, which with searching power burns even to
the depth of several inches. Therefore, stir and
work the soil well before you plant, if you wish
to know the true value of hardy flowers.

And now a few words as to procuring trees
or Bhrubs. If you can do so, get them from a
nurseryman in the neighbourhood, the best way
beiDg to go and have them taken up while you
wait for them, bringing them home and laying
them in immediately. You thus stand the best
possible chance of not losing any of the fresh¬
ness and vitality of whatever you buy. If they
have to come from a distance, take measures for
ensuring their prompt delivery. Nothing
iujures trees much more than laying about at a
draughty railway station for several days
together, especially when wintry winds are blow¬
ing with sap-drying force. They often catch a
chill in this way from which recovery is proble¬
matical Vitality lost is hard to recover, espe¬
cially in the case of Conifers and other Evergreens.
Choose dry weather, if possible, for the actual
work of planting. Do not let the roots ^ry or
be exposed to the air any longer than is abso-
lutely| ^5^| fuljk. j ^T_a|k^_j eart ^ w

Nov. 1, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

411

well worked down amongst the roots, treading
it in firmly if of a light nature, and in the case
of standard Roses and fruit trees put the stakes
to them and tie at once. And now, gentle
reader, before the planting season passes by look
round your garden and see if you cannot, in a
simple and comparatively inexpensive way, add
to its attractiveness and interest for another
year. You have, perhaps, borders choked full
of common Laurels, Firs, Chestnuts, Limes,
&c.—a tangled mass of foliage without variety
and interest. If you have, let me beg of you
to try and redeem this monotony by a few
touches of the art which is itself nature. You
have the materials at hand in a number
of beautiful trees and shrubs infinitely varying
in form and colour, and which, well planted and
judiciously placed, will be a “joy for ever.”

What a strange thing it seems that, with our
rare wealth of material, there should be so
little variety in a general way in shrubberies !
The shrubbery should be, like the greenhouse,
full of interest, displaying its capabilities in
varying aspects, from early spring till late
summer. But some of your readers may say, “ I
would gladly do something of this sort, but I
don’t know what to get.” lo such the following
shortlist will be serviceable :—Flowering trees :
Paul’s Crimson Thorn, much grown in large
gardens, but little known to villa gardeners ;
Showy Mespilus, but little grown up to
the present; Prunus triloba forms a dwarf
tree with semi-double rose-coloured blooms;
Prunus Pi88ardi, new, with dark-coloured
foliage, very distinct and handsome ; Keel
reuteria paniculata, a graceful low tree, bearing
terminal panicles of yellow flowers, followed in
autumn by bladder-like seed-vessels; double
flowering Cherry and Paulownia imperialis.
Trees with variegated foliage : Variegated Elms,
both large and small-leaved, also the variety
Russleyana, having yellow foliage of slow
growth, and therefore suitable for small
gardens, Acer Negundo, Catalpa aurea, and
variegated Turkey Oak. Flowering shrubs :
Berberis Darwini and Jamesoni, Spiraea
callosa and aria?folia, Hydrangea paniculata
grandiflora, Cytisus purpureus (grafted),
Forsythia suspensa, Kalmias, standard Rhodo
dendrons, Andromeda floribunda, Skimmia
japonica, Laurustinus, Ligustrum lucidum,
VVeigelas, and Philadelphuses.

Byjltct . _ J. C.

Tropseolum tuberosum. —In answer to
“M. F. 8.,” October 4th, I have grown the
above for many years. Mine now are one mass
of beautiful scarlet bloom, with long stalks,
showing well from the dark green foliage of the
leaves. The reason of “ M. F. S.’s” not
blooming, they were planted in too rich a soil;
the poorer the soil (even if planted in rubbish)
the better they bloom. The tuber will in
winter require to be taken up or covered over,
to protect them from the frost.— Sudley Villa,
Warwick .

Marvel of Peru.— In a long hot summer
and in warm light soils in the south it is a very
useful decorative plant, and one well worth a
place in the beat border of any garden. In such
favourable localities it quickly assumes the
character of a round bush a yard across and the
same height, well furnished with glossy green
foliage ; and if care is taken to pick off all past
flowers, it blooms continuously until frost. Most
people are disappointed on first seeing this plant,
and exclaim, “Is that the Marvel of Peru?”
evidently expecting something extraordinary.
It is an extraordinary plant, and well deserves
its name, but there is nothing striking about its
appearance to the casual observer. Note the
flowers of a single plant, however ; we will say
they are white, and come back in a fortnight—
the flowers are all yellow, or pink, or crimson,
or striped. That is the marvel about it. Many
plants sport in colour, but here is one that is
continually changing the colour of its flowers,
the intermediate flowers between each self colour
being speckled first and then striped, one colour
waxing as the other wanes. The hotter the
weather the more quickly do these changes take
place and the fewer the two-coloured flowers
that are produced. The changes seem to take
place more quickly on "the sunny sides of the
plant, so that the sarie planter la - (b> byoducing
different colours on iw-dlfrerent exf^suYes, the
shady side, as it were, lagging Behind in the

change. I found the handiest way of growing
the plant was to raise it as a pot plant in an
unheated greenhouse the first year, store the
roots safe from frost all the winter, and plant
out when just starting into growth the following
year. At the end of that period the roots were
great, ungainly, branching, carrot-like things,

2 feet to 3 feet in length, very brittle, and too
awkward to be stored for a second winter.
These remarks refer to the ordinary variety;
the night-scented species I have not grown.—
J. D.

12116.—Dahlias with bad centres.—
Why Dahlias so often have bad centres is a
difficult question to answer satisfactorily. Some¬
times the best varieties, under the most approved
cultivation, and to all appearances growing
under the best conditions as to soil, situation,
&c., will produce flowers with defective centres;
whilst, on the other hand, the same varieties
might in another place be growing, apparently
under the most adverse circumstances, and yet
produce blooms that are perfect in form and
centre. At the present time I know where
there are some Dahlias in bloom. The soil is a
poor sandy material that has had no manure
during the time of its present occupier (five
years), yet, though the plants are dwarf and
stunted from the summer’s drought and the
poorness of the soil, the blooms, though small,
have good centres. Although high cultivation .
will sometimes, with the best varieties, produce |
large, coarse, imperfectly formed flowers, yet j
I think the following to be the most approved
and the surest known method to secure the
most satisfactory results as to size and per¬
fection of the individual blooms:—Prepare the
soil by trenching and heavy manuring ; make
a selection from the best varieties in cultivation;
plant them in rows feet apart each way ; put
at least four stout stakes to each plant, so that the
shoots might be tied out, that they be not over¬
crowded ; mulch with a good thickness of half-
rotten stable manure, and during dry weather
give liquid manure twice a week ; thin the shoots
and the flower buds of the varieties that require
it. We have a border of Dahlias now in bloom,
and, although the season is so far advanced
(October 10th), yet there are few of the flowers
with bad centres. But we do not treat ours
exactly as mentioned above. (We do not grow
for exhibition.) Our border is 100 feet long ;
we plant in 3 rows 4 feet apart and 3 feet
from plant to plant. We give a heavy, thick
mulching at midsummer, but we do not manure
when we trench the land ; we merely dig in the
mulching material of the previous season. We
never thin the shoots or the buds ; we remove
all the blooms as soon as they are past their
best. What we lose in the size of the indi¬
vidual blooms we gain in the general display.
We give no liquid manure. The soil is a stiff
loam on a clay subsoil. Below I give a list of
the varieties we have. They are a selection
from the best in cultivation. When the season
arrives catalogues can be got, as advertised in
Gardening, where the undermentioned varieties
will most likely be found ; but it must be borne
in mind that varieties that do well on one soil
might do indifferently on another:—James
Crocker, Miss Henshaw, Herbert Turner, Flora
Wyatt, John Standish, Acme of Perfection,
Royal Queen, James Service, John Neville
Keynes, Burgundy, Alexander Craymond,
Queen of Beauties, Ovid, Willie Echford, Sir
Greville Smythe, Professor Fawcett, Maggie
Fairburn, Criterion, Mrs. Boston, Leah,
Peacock, Miss Bond, Mrs. Dodds, Eccentric,
King of Primroses, Monarch, Henry Walton,
Walter Wier, Queen Mab, Charles Leester.—
L. C. K.

- I should say that bod centres with Dahlias was the

exception, not the rule. Out of a large collection I have
only one bad, and the flower is perfect in colour and form.
Go<xl cultivation and manure, and not allowing too many
side shoots, will partially ameliorate the evil.— J. P.,
Lancashire.

Crickets and cockroaches.—I had tried
every known advertised remedy for these
destructive pests, and had given up hope of
; ever getting rid of them in my greenhouses,
j until a fellow gardener told me how he com-
1 pletely eradicated them by thousands with a
1 shilling packet of beetle powder he got from
Townson <fc Co., Altringham, where it is used by
, the market gardeners in the Cucumber pits. To
gardeners it is invaluable.—D r. McL,

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 401 .)

Forcing the Strawberry.

Immense numbers of Strawberries are forced
annually in pots, and for early work there is no
better way of forcing them. Later crops have
often been well done in boxes, or planted in
frames. But the forcing of the Strawberry, as
now carried out by the best cultivators, with
single plants in 6-inch pots, is the best and most
advanced practice.

Selecting the Plants.

I was gravely asked the other day if the first
plant on a Strawberry runner did not generally
come blind. This, of course, is a fallacy. If
the parents are fertile, the progeny will be so,
subject to a constant tendency which all culti¬
vated plants have (especially Strawberries) to
hark back to their original condition, if the
means by which they have been lifted up in the
scale are withdrawn. It is specially important
that all plants intended for forcing should be
propagated from advanced types only, and to
this end it is a good plan to select some of the
best and most fertile of the plants forced.
Mark them in the forcing house, and as they
come out place them on one side till all are
collected, and then plant them in an open situa¬
tion, 3 feet apart each way. If all runners are
picked off the first autumn, and all flowers the
next spring, some very strong, early runners
will be produced, which may be secured early ;
and early growth leads to early maturity, and
early rest is the natural precursor to early
awaking, and this is the condition the forcing
gardener desires, as not only does it save fuel
but it leads to better results. There is more
than one way of treating the early runners.
They may be layered into small pots, and
when the plants are established be severed from
their parents, and in the course of two or three
weeks be placed in their fruiting pots, which
will be for the most part 6 inches in diameter,
or what are commonly known as 32’s. Pots
a size smaller are sometimes employed, but
6-inch pots are the best, and give less trouble.
Soil and Potting.

Next in importance to the selection of the
runner is the question of soil and the potting of
the plants. A rather heavy loam should form
the main staple, to which should be added some¬
thing to enrich it. A very easy way of doing
this is to place the loam and the manure in
alternate layers when the loam is first carted
home. Horse-droppiDgs fresh from the stable,
from which all litter has been shaken, about
one cart-load of droppings to three or four
(according to quality) of loam, packed up in a
ridge and left for eight or ten months, and then
chopped down and broken up for use, to be
thoroughly incorporated. Such a compost will
grow many other things well besides Straw¬
berries. The drainage of the fruiting pots
should be carefully seen to, as the plants
will need a good deal of water through the
forcing time until the fruit begins to
colour; but one crock to cover the hole in the
bottom, and 1£ inch in depth of small
crocks over it, will be sufficient for 6-inch pots.
On the crocks should be placed a handful of
rough fragments of turfy loam. The crown of
the plant should be kept well up in the pot, and
the soil should be well rammed in. The soil
should be used in a proper condition, being
neither wet nor dry, but in a nice friable state.
When the plants are potted they should be
placed in an open situation, on a bed of ashes,
or on boards, or some impervious bottom, where
worms cannot penetrate. All weeds must be
pulled from the pots, and all runners cut from
the plants. Neither should they be crowded, but
every plant should ha\e room for the proper
development of its foliage, and the supply of
water must be ample, giviog liquid manure two
or three times a week till the end of September.
By that time all growth should be finished, and
the pots should be full of roots. Though frost
would not hurt plump, well-ripened crowns ,it
would certainly break the pots if they w'ere
exposed to it; and for that reason, before
severe frost sets in, the plants should be
plunged np to the tops in ashes, or old tan,
or something that will protect the pet*. I have
often used leaves. Turf pit*, with some old
lights to keep off heavy rains, are good places to

412

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED [Nov. 1, 1884.

winter Strawberries in, and if nothing better can
be done plunge in the open air, and when the frost
comes strew some dry Fern leaves over them to
shelter the pots. Frost has a resting effect only
upon well-manured plants, and covering should
only be used to save the pots from breakage.
If I were forciug Strawberries very largely,
after the growth was well ripened I should turn
them out of the pots, pack the balls close together
on a bed of ashes, with some litter placed round
the outside plants to keep them from drying,
and place os many in pots again as are required
for forcing.

Commencing to Force.

It is difficult to say really when forcing
begins, for the most important part of the work
is done during the summer and autumn pre¬
vious. If the blossoms are not packed away in
the crowns of the plants no amount of forcing
as ordinarily understood can produce fruit.
Not only must the blossoms be there, but they
must possess the vigour and substance which
right management only can give. There is no
great demand for ripe Strawberries much before
March, and to obtain them by the middle of the
month, the first batch of plants should be intro¬
duced to the forcing pit about the first week
in January, and to keep a succession relays of
lants must be introduced fortnightly. The
lossoms will come away a little stronger if the
pots can be partially plunged (just enough to steady
them) in a bed of leaves where there is a mild
fermentation going on, and where the plants can
almost touch the glass. In this position they may
remain till the flowers are just beginning to open,
when they should be taken to the forcing house,
which should be a very light structure having a
complete system of ventilation which can be
easily applied. But in forcing early Straw¬
berries now no one trusts altogether to
a circulation of air to set the fruit. As the
blossoms open, every day about noon a man
or a boy runs round with a camel's-hair
pencil when the principal blossoms are gone
over, all the weaklings picked off. There
is no difficulty in getting Strawberries to set
under this system. As regards the number of
fruits which a fully developed Strawberry plant
should be permitted to carry, it is obvious that
everything, or nearly everything, must depend,
firstly, upon the strength of the individual
plants, and, secondly, upon what size we wish
our Strawberries to be. A badly developed,
it may be imperfectly fertilised, blossom can¬
not grow into a large fruit, that is certain, no
matter how few may be left on the plant; but,
as a rule, with healthy vigorous plants having
all their parts perfect, if we leave only a
moderate number of berries on the plant, we
shall have as much fruit in bulk and w r eight as
if we left double the number. Usually, if only
ten or twelve berries are left on each pot, a more
valuable lot of fruit will be produced than if
more are left.

The Artificial Setting and Thinning

Of the fruit are links in the chain of success in
the early forcing of the Strawberry which no
one can afford to neglect. It is a good plan
also, as soon as the fniit begin to swell, to
support them in some way to keep the berries
from coming in contact with the liquid manure,
which should be given freely as soon as they are
fairly set. I usually link the clusters of fruit up
to small stakes so that they stand clear of every¬
thing. Iu such a position they get both colour
and flavour. It is specially important that the
plants from the time they are placed in heat
never suffer for want of water. The pots will
be so full of roots it will be almost impossible
to over water, and if they get dry enough to
flag, the ends of the roots, which lie round the
sides of the pots, will suffer, if they do not die
outright. At any rate, I have known instances
where the effect of a single bad case of neglect
has seriously injured the crop by checking its
growth. We often hear of cases where the
fruit turn hard and become rusty, instead of
swelling off and riponing properly, and in nine
cases out of ten this arises through neglect in
watering. To obviate this, as the watering of
Strawberries is not uncommonly left to inex¬
perienced hands from necessity, pans are placed
under the pots, which are kept full of water.
This Is generally done on the principle of
choosing the least of twif e^ils. We oft en .run
the risk of making tlte r^gta,4p*l r n m/fj^etion
rather than incur the danger of starvation.

The former danger can be guarded against by
occasionally emptying the saucers and leaving
them without having water in them for a time.
Another way of meeting this difficulty is to
stand the pots in troughs and flood them occa¬
sionally with water. In connection with this
system, it is a good plan to stand the pot on
thick square sods of turf, into which the roots
will penetrate. The proper watering of forced
Strawberries is one of the chief essentials to
success, as the Strawberry will utilise pro¬
fitably during the time the fruit is swelling a
good deal of support which is commonly given
in the shape of liquid manure, which may be
given if not too strong at every watering.
During the time the fruit is swelling the syringe
should be used freely over the foliage, as the
red spider, if permitted, will soon establish
itself on the leaves.

Flavouring the Fruit.

If convenient, the plants, when approaching
ripeness, may be moved to a cooler house, where
more ventilation can be given. If this cannot
be done the plants supporting the ripening
fruit must be kept drier, the supply of liquid
manure must cease, and as much air must be
given as is consistent with the well-doing of the
other occupants of the house. If the plants are
moved from one house to another to get up the
flavour in a dryer, cooler atmosphere, the re¬
moval must be done carefully. The Strawberry
is a soft fruit, and if shaken so that the fruits
touch each other or rub against the edges of the
pots they will be sure to sustain some injury.

Insects and Mildew.

The red spider is the chief insect enemy which
Strawberry growers dread, and the syringe is
the chief weapon to face it with. Strong,
healthy, vigorous plants are less liable to be
attacked than are those with thin, flimsy foliuge.
The green fly can easily be kept down by fumi¬
gations with Tobacco smoke, but the syringe and
plenty of clean water will go a long way in
keeping down aphides of all kinds. The mildew
sometimes appears on the fruit, especially in
the case of large, soft-fruited kinds; but when
this happens it generally arises through too
much moisture being present in some form or
other during a spell of dull, sunless weather.
If mildew appears on any plant the best plan
will be to remove every plant with the least
suspicion of whiteness upon it, and alter the
conditions of the house at once. Paint the pipes
with sulphur, use a little more fire, and give
more air.

Keeping Plants a Second Year.

Though young plants when well done do
undoubtedly produce the finest fruit, yet for
bulk of crop healthy two-year-old plants are not
to be despised. When the forcing is finished,
the best and healthiest plants are selected that
remain after the stock of runners in the future
has been provided for. The plants are shaken
out, and repotted into clean fl inch pots, adding
a little of Amies’ manure (about a pound to a
bushel) to the ordinary Strawberry compost.
Other stimulating artificials are probably as
good or better than the one named, but I do not
happen to have used any but Amies’ for the
purpose. The plants that are intended

For Late Fruiting

May be planted in boxes, or be turned out of
the pots into beds of soil in pits or frames where
a little warmth can be given with the view of
saving labour. The plan, I grant, has its dis¬
advantages, and I do not know many experienced
growers who do not prefer to keep their plants
m pots, as under pot culture, though a little
more labour may be required, the plants are so
manageable. As fast as the fruits are gathered
from one pot it can be removed, and another
takes its place. Each Strawberry plant has a
separate and independent existence, and it is
this mobility which will al ways keep the pot
system in favour with practical men, who are
very quick to detect the weak points in auy
case, and in the majority of gardens where
Strawberries are forced, and their name is
legion, they are commonly treated as catch
cr0 pa—in Peacheries, Vineries, Pineries, Cucum¬
ber and Melon houses, and in the various plant
houses. In fact, Strawberries are grown any¬
where and everywhere, under glass in spring,
and the pot system of culture is the only one
which in all respects meets the plants’ as well as
the cultivator’s requirements.

Varieties for Forcing.

Vicomtesso de Thury, La Grosse Sucree,
President, Sir Joseph Paxton, James Veitch,
British Queen, Loxford Hall Seedling, Sir
Charles Napier. The above are all good forcers,
and, if carefully packed, will travel well long
distances.

In Packing Strawrerries
For travelling very careful treatment is
necessary. In the first place, properly con¬
structed boxes will be required. Those we use
are made of thoroughly seasoned wood (half¬
inch stuff), 12 inches square, and about H inches
deep—just deep enough to hold one layer of
fruit. A layer of cotton wadding is placed in
the bottom, and each Strawberry is packed in a
separate leaf—a small vine leaf, or a French
Bean leaf, or a large Strawberry leaf will do.
The leaves are gathered a little time before they
are required, so that they may lose their stiff¬
ness before coming in contact with the fruit.
The Strawberries must be placed close together,
so that they cannot move, and when the box is
full, a layer of leaves, followed by a layer of
wadding, will complete the packing. 1 need
not say that everything must be perfectly dry.

E. Hobday.

STONE EDGINGS.

In gardening matters, generally speaking, we
are directed week by week what to plant and also
what to avoid, but it is seldom that attention is
drawn to the great improvement which might be
made as regards picturesque effect by a judicious
employment of stones as an aid to garden culture.
We see borders of clipped Box, shorn Grass,
Daisies, Violas, Pansies, Mignonette, Lobelia,
and a score of other things as margins for walks
and beds, but the wonder is we do not oftener
come across irregularly shaped stones irregularly
placed and almost entirely buried in the soil.
Close to these some of our most beautiful rock
plants might be grown, the roots of which would
creep under them for a Bupply of moisture, and
would also obtain protection against frosts. One
need only disturb a stone in the driest weather
and the sandiest soil to find how moisture in the
evening is condensed and conducted by it to the
cool shade-loving roots, evaporation being at the
same time retarded. Sedums, Sempervivums,
and Saxifrages soon hide the junction between
earth and stone by a luxuriant growth, which
ere long creeps up and embraces their protector.
Emerald-hued Mosses soon clothe the stones and
hide their newness, if older, weather-worn, and
rounded pieces cannot be had.

For small gardens a few barrowfuls of the
rejected stones from the quarry may almost
always be obtainable, but in preference those in
old country lanes, or others which have been
rounded by streams, should be used. Sharp
angular pieces ought to be laid flat-wise, and so
far buried that only the longest surface and the
most natural looking end may be seen, thus
giving an idea of “there is more beneath.” \Vhere
it is necessary to have access over a herbaceous
border, they may be uniformly placed as step¬
ping stones, instead of having sharp rectangular,
short paths made. In like manner on beds of
Roses which must be reached over for pruning,
&c., if not for the gathering of the flowers, a few
nature-worn stones judiciously placed saves one
from the unwelcome sight of an unshapely foot¬
print. A plant of the evergreen Candytuft,
Rock Rose, or something similar growing by the
side of such stones would quite counteract any
seeming incongruity between rocks and Roses, or
a few tufts of Saxifraga Wallacei, S. hypnoides,
or S. Aizoon would soon make all look natural
and pleasing even in the Rose season.

To prove there are stone and stones, with divers
ways of using them, I need only direct attention
to various views in “Alpine Flowers,” showing
how not to do it; yet it caimot be too often
reiterated that in making rockeries the stones
need as much thought and care as to position—
often, in fact, more, than the plants themselves.
On the artistic arrangement of rocks I will not
further venture to speak, but will content myself
with merely directing attention to the use of
smaller stones chiefly as edgings. Pieces of lime¬
stone, sandstone, millstone grit, or, in fact, any¬
thing but rectangular stones, bricks, and slates,
may with a little thought be made to conduce to
the hktural effect we so much desire In our
I gardens, especially if planteadeepenough, though
not so much eo aa to be cut of sag! it, -R, A. fiL.

tfuv.. 1, 1884.]

GARDENING ILL USIN'! TED

413

FRUIT.

HOW APPLES AND PEARS BEAR THEIR
FRUIT.

the season of fruit tree pruning is now upon
us, the accompanying illustrations, showing the
habit aud fertile disposition of the Apple and
Pear tree, unassisted by the pruning knifo or
any of those manipulative processes deemed so
essential by a certain school of cultivators, may
be of service to your readers. The figures show
the Apple in bud, in flower, and in fruit;
illustrate the true habit of the tree better than
any description in words could do ; and show
how the natural fruiting spurs are produced

manent buds to break into shoots, which he j
would pinch again as often as they pushed, and
all with the object of causing the production of
fruit-buds, which, it will be seen, the tree
naturally produces of its own accord, and far
better, when let alone.

Fig. 3 shows similar unpruned shoots in
flower, and Fig. 1 shows one in fruit, the original
of which was cut from an unpruned tree iu a
cottager’s garden, from which many more like
it could be procured. Such examples show the
pruner what he has to do in order to produce
fruitful trees. Provided he does not object to
his trees growing in their natural form, which
is the handsomest of any, he does not need to
touch the branches, except to shorten straggling

bountiful provision Nature has made to ensure
a crop, climate and other conditions being
favourable, and that no kind of pinching or
pruning is needed to help her. Free growth
and root-pruning will accomplish everything.
Worthy, J. Simtson.

Glass copings for fruit trees. —The re¬
ference to fruit trees in Gardening is not
without interest, but it must not be supposed
that copings of any kind will under all circum¬
stances ensure a crop of fruit. I make this as¬
sertion after eight years’ experience of a 3-foot
gloss coping on a considerable length of south
and east walls. At the same time I have not a
word to say against them further than that I have

Fig. 1.

BRANCHES OF UNPRUNED

FlG. 3.—UNPRTJNED SHOOTS IN FLOWER.

abundantly without pinching or pruning. Fig. 2
(a b) represents one and the same shoot out
in two at the node (c). They were drawn
from Nature and the others are from pho¬
tographs of bond-fidt examples. The terminal
Bhoot (a) represents this year’s growth with
leaf-buds, ana the two-year-old shoot (b) shows
the leaf-buds converted into fruit-buds, which
should bear fruit the third year. The sap find¬
ing a ready outlet in the terminal shoot (a) pro¬
duced from the point of b at c, no side shoots
are produced on the two-year-old growth, but
the leaf-buds are only converted into fruit-buds,
and will multiply in nrfmt&r -each yqaj until
they become large i clu| fcer% ^ Jl e »dlt rllfctive
pruoer would pinch these shoots s(ft&r they
grew a few inches, which wnnhl. cause the per-

shoots at the winter pruning, ju9t to preserve
the balance among them, and occasionally,
perhaps, to thin out branches where too
crowded. Fig. 1 is a four-year-old branch,
about 3 feet long, and bore forty-two Apples.
I consider it a very pretty example in its way.
It has done no more than extend at the point
each year, leaving a perfect wreath of natural
and fertile spurs behind it.

The number of fruiting buds an Apple or Pear
tree shoot will produce the second year depends
on the variety. By a wise provision of Nature
they are, as a rule, most thinly placed on those
kinds which bear the largest fruit, and rice
versd. When we reflect that each single fruit-
bud produces a cluster of flowers—a far greater
than can mature fruit—we s*e what

not found them to make acropof fruit a certainty.
They, however, aid the production of a crop,
inasmuch as they afford valuable shelter to the
trees at a time when they most need it. In the
eight years during which glass copings have been
over our Apricot trees we have always had at
least a third of a crop, and in some seasons
heavy ones. Before the copings were put up
we rarely had a full crop, and frequently total
failure, but now failure altogether is unknown
to us. In the case of Pears our experience is
quite as decided.-. Taking, an average of the
eight years during which we have had copings,
our crops have Ikjci? increased one-third, and
the size and flavour of the fruit have been much
improvedURBjAfN^SHAWPAop* 11 ^ have
failed local con- 1 must have been at fault.

414

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 1, 1884.

Such copings should not, however, be per¬
manently fixed ; in that case failure may occur,
i.e., unless the trees are as regularly syringed
as Peach trees are when grown in a house. Ac¬
cording to my experience, I would not have as a
gift 1,000 feet of permanently fixed coping unless I
could make sure of the trees getting the atten¬
tion which they require in the way of regular
syringing of the branches and waterings at the
roots. Another point in connection with cop¬
ings is of great importance, and that is, their
width should be in proportion to the height of
the wall. For a wail 10 feet high the coping
should be only 2 feet wide, and however high
the wall may be the coping should not be more
than 3 feet wide ; the lower the wall the less in
width should the coping be. The objections I
have to wide copings are two : they keep off
too much rain from the branches, and too much
water from the roots, and for these reasons I
prefer copings from which the glass can be re¬
moved and replaced when needed. We take
out the whole of our glass at the end of May,
and only put it up again just before the trees
come into bloom. At one time we did not do
so, but after a year or two’s experience I found
that if the same treatment was continued the
trees on east walls would not be alive in a few
years’ time to require protection. Owing to the
width of the coping the branches did not get
sufficient moisture to keep them in health ; they
were getting infested with all kinds of insects,
and the growth was gradually getting weaker.
Now all this is altered. The trees are both
vigorous and clean. As regards wood copings,
I may remark that we used them for two or
three years, but they were soon exchanged for
glass, which I think in every way better than
wood.—J. C. C.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

One of the most disagreeable circumstances
connected with gardening is that it is necessary
to keep up a war with insects that never comes
to an end. Plants in the open air, with few
exceptions, are little affected with animal para¬
sites that hold on to them beyond a limited time
during the year ; but with those grown under
^lass the conditions are wholly favourable to
insects, which go on increasing more or less,
according to the active or more dormant time
of the year, and unless there is unremitted at¬
tention given to their destruction, the plants
never can thrive or appear as they ought to do.
The course sometimes followed of allowing
plants to get badly infested, and then to subject
them to extra cleansing, is the worst possible
method, for not only is the work thereby much
increased, but the plants themselves, beyond the
harm done to them by the insects, have their
leaves more or less injured by whatever means
are employed in the cleansing process. The
best season to attack the enemy is during the
autumn and winter, when insects increase much
more slowly, and the press of other matters gives
more leisure for the work.

Camellias, more than most plants, suffer
through the presence of white scale, the most
difficult of all insects to get rid of, for the
reason that many of the plants subject to it
will not bear the application of any insecticide
sufficiently strong to destroy the pest without
seriously injuring the foliage. When the
plants are much infested it congregates about
the extremities of the shoots and on the
flower-buds; where the growth is vigorous,
and the buds are set in clusters, it is well to
thin them out sufficiently, so as to be better
able to get at the scale. This thinning out
is also essential to obtain full-sized flowers,
for although the reduction of the buds is not
necessary to be carried so far now that the
blooms of these plants are generally gathered
without any of the wood in the way that was
long looked upon as essential, and consequently
through the non-mutilation of the shoots they
are enabled to develop more flowers, still it is
bad practice to allow too many. Some of the
best of the market growers, who naturally are
anxious to let as many remain as the plants can
fully support, thin out the buds to two or, at
most, three to a shoot. _ I have found nothing
better to clean the&e Ybrnt* wifchj t^an an
ordiniury tooth-brus \Jof (jrjlno 1 egg tfee scale,
finishing by sponging with ordigairy soap anc

water j the strong applications of soft soap not
unfrequently used in the cleaning of many
plants often does more harm than good, and
in the case of Camellias causes numbers of the
buds to drop, although this often occurs so long
after the dressing as not to be attributed to the
effects of the soap. If the plants are badly
affected it will be well to go over them twice.
With the damp weather we have recently had,
necessitating a considerable use of fire heat in
most conservatories to expel the vapour, it will
be requisite to see well that the plants are
sufficiently moist at the roots ; this not alone
applies to those that are grown in tubs or boxes,
but also where planted out, the soil often being
too dry below when the surface looks moist
enough.

Oranges and Citrons. —These are trouble¬
some plants to deal with in the matter of scale,
and now when transferred to their winter
quarters should be thoroughly overhauled, so
as to remove the pest, which in their case often
establishes itself where there is the least in¬
equality in the bark, as well as on the leaves,
the young wood, and about the stalks of the
fruit. These plants should never be allowed to
get badly affected with scale, as it seldom fails
to give a yellow sickly hue to the leaves, in
addition to causing their premature falling off,
and so imparting a half-clothed appearance,
which much reduces their beauty. Where
Oranges are grown in numbers with a view to
their fruit being used, they should have much
more warmth than when only required for ordi¬
nary decoration, otherwise the fruit can neither
be plentiful nor high flavoured. Bottom heat
is sometimes advised where the crop is required
for use in this way, but it is not absolutely
necessary. A genial warmth of about 55 degs.
in the night through the winter, with an
atmosphere neither too dry nor too moist,
will answer for them. By some the flowers
are as much esteemed for their scent as Violets,
and where this is the case much may be
done in lengthening the supply by introducing
a plant or so at a time to a little more heat, as
there is no particular season in which they can¬
not be had in bloom. Though smaller in the
flowers, the small Otaheite variety is useful for
blooming. There is one advantage with this
sort; the plants not being large, a succession
may be brought on to flower without the over¬
abundance at a time that often occurs where
the large kinds are forced.

Lily of the Valley. —Where this is wanted
in bloom by Christmas there is no difficulty in
having it, if strong, full-sized crowns are obtain¬
able that have been cultivated under conditions
such as to bring their growth to maturity early
in the season. The German roots that are now
sent to this country have been in this way
specially prepared for forcing, so that when they
arrive by the middle of October the crowns
have already pushed half an inch or so. If
these are at once potted, and allowed a week or
two before putting them in strong bottom heat,
there is little doubt about their moving freely,
and coming into flower during the latter part of
December.

Poinsettias and Euphorbias.— Poinsettias
intended to come in early should now be sub¬
jected to a brisk stove heat, keeping their heads
if possible all but touching the roof, by which
means additional brilliancy of colour and a
hardier condition such as to enable their bear¬
ing a cooler temperature when fully expanded
will be secured, very different to that which
will result from their being brought into bloom
with their heads several feet from the glass.
Pvegarding the Euphorbia, the time it can be
had in flower will depend upon how the plants
have been treated. Cut-back examples, such as
bloomed last season, that were started into
growth sufficiently early in spring and pushed
on in a warm house with the shoots not stopped
more than once, will flower much earlier and
produce double the quantity of bloom that such
os are weaker and have made their growth later
will. There is no plant that I have ever used
for forcing that has the condition of its flowers
so much dependent upon its being brought on
to bloom with the tops of the shoots all but
touching the glass. When so treated it will
stand in a cut state for a week ; whereas the
bloom from weak plants that opens in a dark
house or under less influence of light is of so
little use for cutting that both the leaves and
flowers flag almost as soon as they are severed

from the plants. Neither of the above plants will
do well with the soil keeping so wet as many
things; the comparatively tew and delicate fibres
which the Euphorbia especially makes cannot at
any season bear the soil being wet unless in very
small, well-drained pots, and under exception¬
ally high temperature. Anyone possessing a
large plant of the old Euphorbia splendens
trained on a back wall, round a pillar, or in any
situation where it will receive a moderately
brisk heat through the winter, will have a
continual succession of brilliant flowers. This
plant likewise is impatient of much moisture in
the soil unless the roots are confined within a
restricted space. Even when allowed plenty of
head-room in the way above indicated, it is
better kept in a comparatively small pot than
turned out in a border.

Euonymusks. — Although these are quite
hardy in most parts of the country, and the
majority of them ultimately grow to a large
size, they arc among the most useful plants for
pot culture that can be grown, especially the
variegated kinds ; the ease with which they can
be propagated and grown admits of their being
used in quantity for decorative purposes in
halls, porches, verandahs, and window boxes
for the winter, in all of which positions their
bright, handsome foliage almost supplies the
place of flowers. Cuttings taken off now made
of the young shoots, and inserted thickly in
pots plunged in ashes and kept in cold frames
through the winter, just protected from frost,
will root in the spring with or without artificial
warmth, but, if assisted with a slight hot-bed,
then it will much help the season’s growth.
When well rooted they should be planted out
in rows in well-prepared, free soil in a light
situation, in which, by the end of the second
summer, they will have made good bushy
plants ready for potting off. Any of the
erect-growing, variegated forms are suitable for
the uses here recommended.

Shrubberies.

Till the leaves have all fallen not much can
be done in the way of clearing out of shrubbery
clumps and plantations, but meanwhile any
replanting or thinning out should have attention,
and this will lighten the labour when a general
clear up and mulching of those that have been
lately transplanted has to be done, w’hich should
take place as soon as all danger of further
litter from leaves, &c., has passed. As a rule,
shrubberies do not receive that amount of
cultural attention which in all cases they well
deserve, Couch, Nettles, Docks, Brambles, and
the like too frequently holding sway amongst
them ; and it is only with a view to the extirpa¬
tion and prevention of these weeds getting the
upper hand that I would advise that the clumps
be forked over annually. I am aware that this
is an operation condemned by many on the
ground of injury to the roots, but this I think is
more fancied than real ; at any rate, of two evils
one should always choose the lesser, and this I
think would be forking over the beds, not to
mention the increased neatness that is thereby
assured. Push along with the preparation on
ground that has to be planted this winter; plenty
of drain-pipes and a free outlet in low-lying
situations are the first essentials of success. In
such positions it is also a good plan to raise the
soil well above the general ground level, but if
such raising be considered objectionable, it is
not really necessary so loDg as the drainage at
the bottom is effectively done.

Shrubs fob forcing. — These, which may
now be taken up, should include Pwhododen-
drons, selecting for the purpose the early-
blooming kinds. Quite equal to these Rhodo¬
dendrons are the Japanese varieties of Azalea
mollis, which are great improvements in size
and substance on the Ghent sorts. They are
better adapted for using as pot plants in this
way than for blooming out-of-doors, as, except
in the most favoured localities, they have a dis¬
position to flower before danger from spring
frost is over. The hardy Azalea (A. anuena)
and the Ghent varieties are excellent forcers.
Kalmia latifolia, Laurustinus, the double-
flowered Prunus, Deutzia gracilis, Lilacs, and
the Guelder Rose, all answer well for this pur¬
pose, and are very! serviceable in helping the
supply of ordinary greenheuse plants. They
are especially to be recon. mended where the
means at command m the shape of houses and
pits solely devoted to plant growing is insufii-

Nov. i, mi.-]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

415

v

cient to keep up the requisite supply, as in
many places during the winter season there are
mid-season and late vineries and Peach houses
where such plants can be placed out of the
reach of frost and snow, and where they will be
slightly encouraged to come on into bloom, and
be in a better condition for introducing to the
forcing house than if left out in the open air.

Flower Garden.

Flower beds should at the present time
be cleared of all plants that will not withstand
frost. Dahlias, Begonias, and other tuberous
rooted plants should be placed in safe quarters
—a cool Bhed—and the roots laid in dry vege¬
table soil, in sand, or Cocoa fibre, there to re¬
main till February. The beds should then be
replanted for the winter, either with bulbs and
spring-flowering plants and annuals, or else
with evergreen shrubs. Violas and Pansies
may remain, for with mild weather they will
flower more or less the winter through, so that
all that is needed to furnish these kinds of beds
for the winter are a few small shrubs, such as
Cupressus, Retinosporas, or Aucubas; they
should be planted at regular intervals over the
beds, the Violas serving as a groundwork, into
which may advantageously be dibbled a few
Tulips or Hyacinths for early spring flowering.
Other beds may be treated in like manner, as,
for instance, those that have been carpeted
with hardy plants of the Sedum type. Do not
remove this, but plant in it Stocks, Wallflowers,
Forget-me-nots, &c., as well as suitable shrubs
in the larger and more conspicuous positions.
By this means the work of refurnishing will not
only be less, but the beds will look well at
once. I need hardly add that the edgings of
beds ought to be neatly trimmed, and bare spots
of earth be mulched with fine vegetable mould
or fibre. This done, an occasional Bweep up
and rolling of turf will be all the attention the
parterre will need for months to come.

Mixed flower borders. —There is at pre¬
sent an inevitable look of untidiness about
these, wind and wet having done their worst.
Chrysanthemums need tying up, and some of
the clumps may be worth protecting from frost,
which is easily done by placing a few sticks
round the plants, and lightly wrapping round
them pieces of tiffany or matting. Other plants,
such as Antirrhinums, Michaelmas Daisies, and
Anemones, that have done flowering should be
relieved of useless spray and seed-pods, and
annuals be encouraged to make sturdy growth
by being well thinned out, and the entire sur¬
face of the border be freed of weeds, and be
lightly pointed over, but previous to which all
vacant spots should be filled up with any spare
biennials or bulbs there may be left from the
general planting.

General work. —The due preservation of
neatness must have first place under this head¬
ing, and next comes the pressing forward with
alterations and improvements whilst the weather
continues open, and therefore favourable to all
transplanting operations, that generally form
a large proportion, and by far the most im¬
portant, of the work connected with extensions
and alterations ; but under no circumstances
should planting be done when the soil is
in a puddled condition; but the work may
at that time be advanced by carting the neces¬
sary soil and manure to the ground, and

S etting it ready by deep trenching and
raining where needed. Bedding plants now
need careful treatment to keep them in
good health. All kinds should be watered but
sparingly—Pelargoniums more particularly so,
or the late-struck plants that have as yet made
little root will quickly rot off. Verbenas,
Petunias, Ageratums, and others of similar
hardiness should be kept as cool as possible ;
cold pits that can be well covered in the event
of frost are the best structures for these. Pre¬
pare protection in the way of litter or bracken
for protecting plants that are being wintered in
ordinary cold frames. Of course, this need be
applied only in exceptionally severe weather,
as the covering with ordinary mats will suffice at
other times.

Fruit.

Vines. —Late-planted young vines that have
grown vigorously, as they generally do, will
still require artificial warmth in combination
with free ventilation, /In* order to Tonsure
thorough ripeness of w<JpL |jjykn jOlJe^best
of seasons it is sometimerdimcult tq_get such

vines to ripen, and as the present one has be en
all but sunless, it will at once be seen ho w
necessary a continuation of artificial warmth is.
Such vines may now have the growth that was
allowed to run to induce greater root-action
cut oft*; but in its removal carefully guard
against injury to the foliage on the main stem,
that being an important factor in the plumping
up of the fruit-buds. Late Grapes, particularly
Lady Downes, will still be the better for
having the temperature kept up to about
65 degs., and the surplus growth on these should
also now be removed, as light and air are
essential as regards the good preservation of the
fruit so long as it remains on the vines. Grapes
that have been ripe for some time, and which
are keeping but indifferently on the vines,
through the surroundings being damp, ought to
be cut with pieces of the wood and placed in
bottles in a dry room. In the case of Grapes
that are to be ripe in April, or early in May,
the vines will at once require to be started.
“ Slow and sure” should be the motto ; so for
the present be content with keeping the house
closed without applying fire-heat. Prior to
starting see that the inside borders are well
moistened through with water at a temperature
of 80 degs. or 90 degs., and outside borders
should have a thick covering of litter or bracken
put on them to exclude frost, and shutters or
tarpaulin to throw off wet. If, as is in many
instances the case, the earliest Grapes are had
from pot vines, these too should be now started,
and though bottom-heat is not essential, a
slight warmth such as that produced by 2 feet
or 3 feet in thickness of Oak leaves, will assist
the earlier starting of the vines ; and even if
allowed to root into the leaves, as they will do
as the heat declines, such rooting is beneficial.

Vegetables.

Globe Artichokes for some years had a rather
rough time of it, but last season being mild,
they sprang up with their usual strength in the
spring, and now present a very respectable
appearance. Give them a good mulch with cow
manure, and afterwards protect them with dead
bracken. February is the best time to make new
plantations. Slipping off the offshoots from the
parent plant is a much better system than grow¬
ing them from seed. Digging, trenching, or
manuring, as the case may be, all vacant quar¬
ters or borders after the crops are secured will
be the order of the day. The time is fast
approaching when Seakale, Asparagus, and
Rhubarb will want looking to. Rhubarb, in
fact, may be taken up now to force ; it is quite
ripe enough for that purpose. Now is a capital
time to plant Cauliflower plants under hand-
lights, planting five under each light in a warm
corner on a Bouth border. In the case of Cauli¬
flowers to plant out in March, I find by far the
l>e81 plan is to plant them in small 3-inch pots.
Keep them in cold frames, and expose them
fully on all occasions except when there are
heavy rains or sharp frosts. They get nice,
stiff, and sturdy plants by March, and if turned
carefully out of the pots, and planted out at
once, they never feel tne effects of the shift.

Cucumbers. —If plants in manure pits and
frames are still giving a supply equal to the
demand, keep September-sown plants divested
of all male and female blossoms, and train
the young growths regularly over the
wires. Add more lumps of turfy loam
to the roots as they appear on the surface
of the hills or pots, but avoid the use of
stimulants until they begin to bear fruit. Keep
a sharp look-out for mildew, and check it at
once by the application of dry sulphur to the
leaves, renovation of the fermenting material,
and the abundant use of water at a tempera¬
ture equal to that of the soil containing the
roots. Keep succession plants growing by
shifting them on before they become pot-bound
if the pit in which they are to be planted is not
ready for them. Never bury the stems of
winter plants, as deep potting or heavy earth¬
ing is the frequent cause of them going off
before the inexperienced are aware of their
danger ; but in potting or planting always keep
the top of the ball near the surface, and coax
the roots away into feeding ground some
distance from the stems. Where old
veterans are still doing good service keep
them copiously supplied with good warm,
generous liquid, mulch the balls with short
stable manure, and encourage an extension

growth by allowing a number of the moit pro¬
mising vines to ramble over any unoccupied
part of the trellis. In every department keep
the foliage free from insects by means of
sponging or fumigating, and endeavour to main¬
tain a healthy sturdy condition by internal
cleanliness and the frequent removal of matter
which may accumulate upon the glass, and so
interfere with the passage of solar warmth and
light.

NOTES OF FLOWER SHOWS IN
GLASGOW.

To a certain extent flower shows are days of
judgment to exhibitors, for whatever opinions a
florist may have of his own flowers, to get a first
prize or a second, or, it may be, nothing at all,
is to get the “ hall mark ” of authority (such as
there is to be had), and to the majority of
people that decides the fate and popularity
of a flower for a long time. The crowds
are always around the prize lots, while rarer
exhibits may be passed over because no magic
red card is beside them. In Pansies, Roses,
Pinks, Carnations, Asters, and all such florists’
flowers very few ever demur to the righteous
judgment of our floral “ Daniels,” as opinion
on these is not divided very much, and the
rules of the trade obtain almost general
consent. When we come to the herbaceous
classes, however, we enter the “ debatable
land ” with a vengeance, and must be silent and
civil, or be prepared with a reason on the
spot whether we agree or disagree with the
dictum of the cards. To stand and observe for
a little the passing fanciers of Pansies as they
discuss a stand of blooms is to get often a good
insight as to the merits and demerits of the
Pansy, and almost always to hear the judges’
decision homologated. Not so with the herba¬
ceous classes, for it is very difficult indeed to
find men able to judge at all, and much more
difficult to get hardy flower growers to agree as
to the merits of their special pets as against the
special pets of others. How, for instance, can
a comparison be made as to a Tiger Lily and a
Delphinium? Between two Tiger Lilies and
two Delphiniums a decision could be arrived at
approximating to fair and true, but between
dissimilar plants it is impossible ; hence the
general dissatisfaction that ensues at a show.
Again, the schedule says hardy or border
herbaceous, and I never yet have seen the prizo
awarded to a hardy exhibit if a half-hardy lot
were competing with it.

One of the best judges I ever met used to
declare that “if a plant was hardy anywhere in
Britain he let it pass in Glasgow.” Would it
not be better to debar all plants that were
not hardy in the locality where exhibited ?
Many a failure occurs to voung florists by
taking note of the names of flowers at show's
and straightway buying these as the best of the
kind to be had, and, after expense and a year’s
patience, discover that they were quite misled,
as the flowers they saw were grown under
glass. For instance, Lobelia cardinalis and
Eucomis punctata were exhibited here in Sep¬
tember, and neither are hardy. Let amateurs
therefore beware of such misleading exhibi¬
tions, and consult some catalogue, or, better
still, write to Gardening and ask for infor¬
mation ere indulging their taste and spending
their money to reap vexation and loss the next
summer.

Tiie Pansy Show in July in the Glasgow
City Hall was very fine, but the turn-out of
visitors was a shame, as only one out of every
ten were there who should have been. At
Edinburgh the previous week the number of
visitors was much greater, while the quality of
the show was less. Not complimentary this to
our citizens. But with greater publicity, big
posters, &c., let us hope that next year may
make amends for this. The Roses were, per¬
haps, the premier attraction, and for variety,
size, colour, and form, the exhibits were of the
highest excellence. Mr. Hugh Dickson, Bel¬
mont Nurseries, Belfast, carried off the first
prize with a superb stand, and was also first for
the best Rose in the show with a bloom of
Hippolyte Flandrin. For this honour a perfect
bloom of A. K. Williams was quite abreast of
the other from A. Dickson and Son’s stand,
but thero ! who can decide a neat point like this
at four o’clock when the judges saw them at
twelve o’clock I s,nd a Rose m four hours is

410

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 1, 1884.

often a very different flower during that time,
as anyone can prove that ever tried to paint one
from Nature.

It ia a very singular thing that all the best
prizes of late years have gone to Ireland at our
Bhows ; either Mr. Hugh Dickson or his brother
Alexander being first, and our Scotch growers
being second or third, or nowhere. At the great
show of Roses held annually at Helensburgh-on-
the-Clyde the same result is arrived at, so there
must be some reasons for it—of climate,
personal skill in exhibiting at their best stage
the choicest blooms, or the vexing fact that in
Scotland Roses cannot be grown so well as in
Belfast. Roses grow well within three miles of
the Cross of Glasgow, and there are many fine
collections of them, but to go through a fine
garden or nursery at the sea coast—say Helens¬
burgh, Kirn, Bute, or Mr. Templeton’s, at
Prestwick, near Ayr—and see the magnificent
blooms and grand foliage, is all the difference
between good, better, and best. One secret of
. he old Rosarians seems lost, and that is how
to grow standard Roses. Many are planted,
but few live five years. My own success has
been variable both on home-budded Briers and
bought plants. My friend, A. Robertson, tried
standards for years, but all have slowly died
out, while the dwarfs are a sight to see in July
—say three hundred or so of the very best
sorts.

At the beautifully-situated and finely-kept
manse garden here there are some large beds of
Roses grown to perfection, and of late a new
lot of standards has been tried. This year they
were in fine bloom, but whether they will be a
ioy for more than five years we cannot yet say.
There is one grand old Rose tree within sight
of my window, the beauty of which, when
covered with hundreds of blooms, is worth an
ordinary amateur’s whole stock, and is prized
as it deserves by the lady whose delight it is to
care for it year by year. It was planted upwards
of thirty years ago by Mr. S. Lindsay, of Cath-
cart Mill, and now it is 10 feet high and 6 feet
through at least. Why then is it that this
venerable Rose Queen should survive in a regal
splendour for so long a time, while all the young
princesses of the blood royal should die so
young ? A problem we cannot solve. Around
it the suckers from the Brier roots are numerous,
and are dug down yearly. The stem is carefully
swathed in thick canvas, and the weight of the
head has to be supported as well. In the same
garden there is a fine standard of the old yellow
Rose, Harrisoni, on its own roots, and the head
is very fine when covered with bloom. This
old Rose is very dwarf usually, but if encouraged
to throw up strong shoots by mulching liberally,
a much better appearance results. It must
not be hard pruned, however, but left to
itself. Flowers are produced very freely.
If we prune the dwarf Roses in April
almost to the ground, and fork in lots
of old kept manure from the piggery, the
finest results are obtained ; but if the knife
is timidly handled, and manure sparingly em¬
ployed, poor Roses are grown, and the bushes
soon lose health. Once the middle of May is
reached, a dose of liquid manure, twice a-week,
brings away the growth double strong, and the
autumn bloom is increased very much also.
There is a very good story told of the late Dr.
Gillan, of Inchinnan, near Renfrew, who was
very fond of his Roses, when he had any to
speak of. He bought, year after year, the best
plants he could ; but, somehow, the blooms
would not come out to please him. The wit of
the doctor was taxed to account for it, and his
wit was a byword in Glasgow ; but it was no
use, and Roses were given up. One spring
morning, however, as if Mother Nature had
resolved to aid the lover of her choicest subjects,
an ass waudered into the garden, and carefully
cropped close to the ground all the young shoots
of Roses, thinking, maybe, they were a sharper
kind of Thistle. Of course, the chagrin was great
at the manse, as now, at least, the fates had
done their worst, and flowers were impossible.
In July, however, the doctor’s Roses were the
pride of the pariah, and, greatly chuckling, the
genial man exclaimed, “That when he had
a gardener that was an ass he got no Roses,
but once he had an ass that was a gardener you
could see what could be grown at Inchinnan. ”
Let the novice in Rose-Pruning app’y this story
next April, and, v/ith a. grad 'band knife, take
all hla young bushekdera tc y. itVb. Cinches or

so of the ground, and he will have flowers; but
let him hesitate, shrink and feel his “ courage
going Sir Lucius ” kind of way, and what he
grows will not be very like what he will sec at
flower shows. To those with old bushes and
overgrown hedges of climbing Roses, there is
another way of pruning which I tried this year
with great success. It was recommended by
the Rev. C. Wolley-Dod, whose name is suffi¬
cient authority for any advice he gives to be
strictly followed by the amateur. Dispensing
with knife or Rose scissors, he takes the great
hedge shears and rumps round the bushes quite
freely, cutting well in, and so effects in an hour
or more what, by the ordinary slow cutting
method, would take a whole day. Of course
where the tasteful amateur only grows a dozen
or so of the finest sorts, he likes to go round
each bush with a calculating care and loving
hand, noticing to cut to a strong bud,
growing to the outside, so as to leave
the centre free, and have the canes all growing
straight up or at an angle inclining outwards.
This treatment, with rich manuring and liquid
doses, yields the finest blooms, and to those com¬
peting at shows ia indispensable. If lots of
flowers are w r anted, the pruning should not be
so hard, but take it over a series of years, and
I find it the best plan, as a severe winter cuts
most sorts to the very ground, and the number
of young canes that spring is greater than by
slight pruning where growth is confined to the
tops mostly.

Let no novice think he can rival a stand of
Roses like what Hugh Dickson carried off the

S rize with at Glasgow, even though he bought
ozens of bunches and grew them well too, as
competing blooms are usually confined to fresh
budded plants as these give the finest blooms,
and old bushes are rarely cut from for keen
competition. Although I have cut as fine single
blooms at a time from two or three-year-old

S lants as I have seen at a show, yet the next
ower was not so fine; but this occurs in all
plants, Pansies even sending up in early spring
a perfect bloom, and never another like it all the
rest of the season.

Beginners, again, often make the sad mistake
of copying the names of the prize Roses and
ordering the lot. Far better let the order be
sent to a respectable house for the number
simply that is wanted, and ask for vigorous

G rowers for such a situation, soil, climate, &c.

he nurseryman will be far more likely to send
fine bushes of growable sorts than when you
limit him to certain popular kinds, and he
needs must send them, strong or weak, as the
demand is great or otherwise. For instance, if
I go to a nursery and ask for a Horace Vernet,
and find there has been a run on that Rose, I
leave the weaker plants left, and select a strong
bush of Charles Lefebvre instead. After experi¬
ence is obtained and a stock gathered, selections
can be made as new sorts came out, but unless
I could get a good grown young plant, “I’ll
none of it,” as the growing is but labour and
sorrow. A very good, if strong, story is told
of an Englishman who had gone to a lonely
Highland glen to fish, and in the house where
he lodged, a very diminutive boy, known as
“wee Donald,” acted as his message boy and
carrier in general. Next year, when the
Southron gentleman came North to fish, he at
once asked, where was “ wee Donald ?” No
answer was returned, and after positive
demands for the lad were met with silence,
he indited on knowing where his handy
favourite was, and got answer thus: “Och,
she’ll ji8t draw his neck, as she was shure
wee Donald would never grow to be a folk.'
So with weakly, ill-grown plants. Better to
kill them right away as be bothered nursing
them, as very rarely will they grow to be “folk,”
or Roses among Roses. Striking cuttings is an
easy thing with some florists, and 1 have seen
others succeed so badly as to discourage them
altogether. An old gardener of fourscore
showed me his method, and since adopting it I
rarely lose a cutting, while on the other methods
my success was very near to complete failure.
Take a cutting and half-inch of wood on either
side of the heel, which looks, when cut, like a
crutch. Insert the cuttings in leaf-mould and
sand and press firm, give a good watering, and
allow a day to elapse, when the whole is dry,
and then cover with a bell-glass, tightly pressed
down ; and, if done in August or September,
leave alone without watering again or airing

till April or May, when the flower buds will be
at the top of the glass, and flower the same
season. The first time I tried Mr. Muir’s plan
I lost two cuttings, and since not one, and from
last year’s cutting! I have now plants 3 feet
high, and ready for shifting in November to
permanent quarters. The following Roses I
have found to do well, all on the Manetti
stock : —

Abel Carriere, Baroness Rothschild, Centifolia Rosea,
Comtesse de Chahrillant, Due de Rohan, Eugene Appert,
John Hopper, Madame Charles Wood, Madame Victor
Verdier, Marquise de Castellaue, Pierre Notting, Senateur
Vaisse, Gloirc de Dijon. Cramoiaie Supcdeurc, Old Moss
Rose, Alfred Colomb, Boule de Neige, Charles Lefebvre,
Co intense de Screnye, Earl of Beaconsfleld, Horace Vernet,
Jules Margottin, Madame La Charme, Mdlle. Annie Wood,
Madame or Mrs. Rivers, Prince Camille de Rohan, Star of
Waltham, Souvenir de la Malmaison, Mrs. Boaanquet, and
Old Cabbage Rose.

I have had these for years mostly, and this
year my blooms were superb. I have found La
France die four times, Marie Baumann weak
(but my finest bloom, maybe), A. K. Williams
weak and died off. Of new sorts, the very
finest I have seen this long time is Merveille de
Lyon—Mr. Dickson showed it here in grand
form, and colour delicate blush—also Hippo-
lytc Flandrin, and I must try another A. K.
Williams and La France, which may, perad-
venture, succeed. A. Sweet.

(To be continued.)

Cool grreenhouees. —Dear Mr. Editor,—

As one who has read (I might almost say spelt)
your delightful paper from end to end for years,

I trust you will allow me to ask one or two
questions of those who, unlike myself, appa¬
rently believe in the “cool greenhouse.” I
myself possess a small, very well-made struc¬
ture, looking due south, and in it I have placed,
year after year, such plants as are recommended
in Gardening for cool houses, but I get no
bloom. May I ask them do they ? and, if they do,
how do they do it ? My own impression is
that damp is the enemy with which we have
to wrestle. But how can it be done when the
air is saturated with moisture, and creeps in at
every crevice, and even between the very panes
of glass, to “ damp off” your bulbs, Camellias,
Solanums, or whatever else you may happen
to have started in your cool house ? Here, in
the extreme south, we have as much sunshine,
and probably a good deal less rain, than falls
usually to the lot of the English gardener in
winter ; but I do not believe it possible, even
from the hardiest subjects, to obtain a show of
bloom in an unwarmed greenhouse ; and I
would fain beg of those of your readers who do
to impart to us their method and experiences.—

A Vicar’s Wife.

Geranium v. Pelargonium.— There is
hardly anyone who does not think that he know?
what a Geranium is, and yet few people really
do; indeed, the names Geranium and Pelar¬
gonium are generally so mixed up, both in the
press and by the public, that it is no wonder
that there is much mystification. Ask anyone
what a Pelargonium is, and the chances are you
get the answer, after a little hesitation, that it
is a “fancy ” Geranium. Although it has been
many times asked “ What’s in a name ?'• yet it
is manifest that there must always be confusion
if gardeners, professional or amateur, do not
call plants by their right names, particularly
when the name used is really the name of some
other plant. The following paragraph from
Robinson’s admirable “English Flower Garden”
(Murray) is therefore worth noting:—“Pelar¬
gonium : The numerous species of this genus are
all, or nearly all, natives of the Southern
Hemisphere, or have orginated as hybrids or
cross-bred varieties produced in this or other
European countries. They are very often
erroneously termed Geraniums, from which
family of plants (although allied) they are
totally distinct, Geraniums being chiefly indi¬
genous to the northern half of the globe, some
of them to England, and all of them hardy
herbaceous plants. Pelargoniums grow and
flower in the open air in this country during the
summer months, without, however, being so
hardy as to brave an ordinary British winter.*'
To this may be added that the Pelargoniums
are Storks-bills, while the Geraniums are
Cranes-bills, the latter being well-known in
their wild state under this name. As a matter
oif curiosity it would be interesting to know how]
and when this mistake arose,—A Reader,

NoV. 1, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

417

INDOOR PLANTS.

THE AHUM FAMILY.

A better illustration of the water-loving
character of the whole of the members of the
Arum family could not well be given than that
shown in the accompanying engravings, which
represent two well-known plants growing under
those conditions which Nature provides for
them, and under which alone, imitated in our
plant houses, can anything like success in their
cultivation be achieved. Arums frequent only
the moistest of situations, and whether found in
the dense jungles of the western or eastern
Tropics or in the more temperate regions, they
are always either luxuriating on the banks of a
stream or under the
shade of some forest
in which moisture is
abundant. The head¬
quarters, perhaps, of
the Order is Tropical
America, especially
the southern portion.

Here Anthuriums,

Philodendrons, Mon-
steras, and Cala-
diums, along with
hosts of others, are
found clinging round
the limbs of the
gigantic forest trees
to whose shade they
are indebted for pro¬
tection from scorch¬
ing sunlight, and
under whose influ¬
ence the air about
them is kept ever
humid and genial.

Travellers tell us that
in these forests the
evaporation is as
excessive as that of a
vapour bath, and so
it is in the Old World
wherever the Arum
family is represented
—always excessive.

Like Ferns, Arums
thrive best under ex¬
tremely moist con¬
ditions. In the case
of both there may be
exceptions, but one
cannot err in imita¬
ting Nature. No one
could desire to have
Spathiphyllum de-
chardi better grown
than we here see done
by Nature herself.

To neglect to supply
it with an abundance
of water is, so far as
this plant and others
of the same genus are
concerned, almost
sure to end in failure.

The wretched con¬
dition of the Arum
Lily treated as a
pot plant in the ordi¬
nary pot-bonnd man¬
ner, as compared with
what it is when
planted out and
deluged with water,
is another instance of

the same sort of mismanagement. Anthurium
Scberzerianum and A. Andreanum are almost
semi-aquatic in their habits, and although the
latter is found sometimes growing upon the
trunks of trees, yet an abundance of rain
and an atmosphere heavily laden with
moisture supply it with those conditions with
which it meets along the stream banks or
in heavy marshes. The Spathiphyllums, in¬
cluding the species here represented, along with
S. candid urn, S. flori bund urn, and S. Pat ini,
known in gardens as Anthuriums, are all natives
of the humid forests of Columbia. The Amor-
phophallus and allied kinds are other noble
members of the Arum family.

Calla mthiopica, Richa'rdia, Arum Lily,, or
Lily of this Nile, by whic^eveffral) e aeh; u^ea to
call it, is one of our everyhlay plants^f^wn by

all and admired by all both for its handsome
leaves and for its large white, sweet-smelling,
trumpet-shaped flowers so called ; but, I sup¬
pose, everyone knows that they aro no more
flowers than the sheath that envelops the
Wheat car. The flowers are, however, inside
that white trumpet, and it is to their dis¬
tilling energy that the sweet odour emitted
from the tube is due. Arum Lilies are much
used for the decoration of churches about
Christmas time, and again at Easter they play
a promiuent part in the same kind of work. In
order to have a good Bupply of the flowers of
thiB plant the following directions may be
followed with advantage : Early in June the
plants should be shaken out of their pots,
cut up into as many pieces as possible, and

Arum Lilies Planted Out.

planted in trenches prepared as for Celery—
that is, to three parts of loam add one part of
fresh cow manure, and place a layer of it in
the bottom of a trench about 1 foot deep. All
through the summer an abundance of water
should be given with a liberal addition of
liquid manure as the plants advance in growth.
About the end of September lift each plant with a
good-sized ball of earth attached to it and repot,
placing them afterw ards in a shaded position in a
cool house for a few days bo that no check may be
experienced. When established they may be
placed in a light airy position in a greenhouse or
frame, and as near the glass a9 possible. The
temperature should not exceed 55 degs., a degree
of warmth which will be sufficient to bring them
into bloom by Christmas time and onwards, until
Easter. Resting or drying off for a time after

flowciiog is not good treatment for these plants ;
they should be well supplied with water always.
There is a variety of C. uthiopica known as
C. hastata, distinguished by its yellow flowers.
Both theso plants are natives of the Cape, and
not of the Nile region.

Abutilons in winter.— As winter after
winter comes round the value of Abutilons as
winter flowering plants becomes apparent.
Many of them may easily be made to bloom all
the year round, but their flowers are more use¬
ful during the short days in the winter than in
summer. They may now be had of almost all
colours, and all of them are nearly equally
elfective. Some kinds bloom, however, more
freely in winter than others. One which blooms
profusely from Octo¬
ber untilMarch is the
one named Waverley.
It is a robust grower.
The flowers are pro¬
duced in great clus¬
ters, and their colour
is deep and intense
yellow. They are
large in size and may
either be cut off in
clusters or singly for
house decoration.
Brilliant, Dazzle,
King of Roses, Pur-
pureum, and Scarlet
Gem are all fine bright
flowering kinds, and
wherever there is a
greenhouse or con¬
servatory quantities
of them should be
grown. They are not
precarious subjects
to deal with ; on the
contrary, every one
of them grows freely,
and gives satisfac¬
tion without any cod¬
dling. Insects have a
special dislike to
them ; our plants are
never infested by
them, a fact which
speaks for itself. Win¬
ter-blooming plants
are propagated in the
spring, and grown on
in a cool frame, or in
the open air in a shel¬
tered spot through¬
out the summer.
While out-of-doors
they must have
plenty of water and
the shoots must be
w’ell pinched in, as
the plants should be
kept very dwarf until
autumn, when young
growths may be
allowed to form, and
it is these which
flower all the winter .
Old plants grown on
in 10 or 12-inch pots
supply very large
quantities of flowers,
but spring - rooted
cuttings make fine
useful plants, and
are best for conserva¬
tory decoration. We
hardly ever allow any flowers to form during the
summer, but conserve the energies of the plants
for winter flowering. The blooms open quite
freely in a temperature of 60 degs., and no
matter how cold the weather may be they never
show any signs of ** damping off." Abutilons
are plants suited in every way for amateurs, as
no art is needed to grow them and they bloom
well without any special care. . They should
have about this time liberal quantities of manure
water at the root, and as soon as any flowers
decay they should be plucked off, as they are
much inclined to form seed-pods, and that
always reduces their ability to flower well. A
dozen small plants of sueh' a kind as Waverley
will supply scotee of flowers weekly, and there
is no kind of floral decoration into which they
cannot bel &&odttfed intSji the best effect.—C.

418

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 1, 1884.

Mignonette in pota. — Mignonette ex¬
pected to be in good condition in April and May
next should have been put into the pota in which
it is to flower two or three months ago. If it is to
survive the winter in a satisfactory state it
should be kept as free from excitement as pos¬
sible from November until the middle of
February. The best position for it during this
time is a plant house in which fire heat is only
used to keep out frost, or a light brick pit in
which there is ample room for air and light to
play between the plants. All points considered,
no doubt Mignonette is best on the front shelves
or in a light position on the stage of a span-roofed
house, but it is absolutely necessary that it be
kept secure from frost, and nothing more in the
way of heat should be given it than just what
will do that. Mignonette also requires very
careful watering in winter, as any excess of
moisture at the roots soon turns the leaves-yellow
and ultimately renders the plant useless. Clear
water only should be given it while resting.
Plants intended to make large specimens should
be carefully tied out if not already done. If
well furnished with growths, they may be trained
to any desired shape, but for ordinary uses the
bush form is as good as any, as it is the most
natural. Crowding must also be avoided ; no
plant should touch its neighbour, and those
trained flat should stand on inverted pots.
When I had a fancy for growing large examples
of Mignonette, I used, as soon as the sun gained
power in March, to drop the pots in which the
plants were growing inside other pots. By this
means the roots were kept in a more uniform
condition as to heat and moisture than they
otherwise could have been. Not unfrequently
the roots of Mignonette are injured by the sun
striking upon the pots and burning them.
Towards the end of February the plants will
begin to grow with increased vigour, but they
must not be hurried by keeping the house in
which they are growing close or by the aid of
artificial heat, and primary conditions as regards
success are light and judicious ventilation. At
this stage shoots showing flower should have
their points picked off, and from this time for¬
ward something stimulating may be given to the
roots. Probably any concentrated manure will
answer for this purpose, but we use Florvita,
which seems to be very suitable for Mignonette,
being hardly so forcing in character as some of
the others. If given according to the directions
once a fortnight that will be often enough. After
the middle of April shade from continuous bright
sunshine must be afforded, but it should be
movable, and only applied during very bright
weather ; if constantly used the growth will be
weakened. Plants to flower in winter must be
sown earlier than those wanted to flower in
spring, and must receive earlier attention in
every way.—J. C.

Blue Lobelias. —These are indispensable
in the summer flower garden, but to have them
really effective they must be strong bushy plants
when put out, and the only way by which this
can be effected is to make an early start. If
their propagation is left until spring there is not
time to get plants bushy enough to make much
show. A good plan is to save a quantity of old
plants, which, if cut down early in autumn, will
now be furnished with healthy growing shoots.
These plants, pulled into pieces, will yield
several dozens of rooted divisions, which, if
dibbled into shallow boxes, will soon strike root
freely. The points of the shoots must be kept
pinched out, and as soon as they begin to form
side-shoots they should be potted off in 3-inch
pots and placed in light airy pits or frames near
the glass. Keep them nipped down close until
finally planted out, when they will be dense
tufts, ready to make a brillant display. Lobelias
succeed best under cool treatment; in fact, I
find them to do well in frames along with
Calceolarias, Gazanias, and similar plants
where the frost is kept out by external
coverings. The less fire heat they get the
better. Although seedlings or spring struck
cuttings may be pushed on to make fine plants
by May in heated structures, they have not
the stamina of plants wintered in cold frames,
and make but a brief display.—J. G. G.

Guernsey Lily (Nerine Fothergilli).—We
find this to be very useful for flowering in
Angust. Indeed, we^re rather struck with its
serviceable character. Five cTj six bulbs in an
8-inch pot make fiVc ipecFn. cor placing in

vases, of a rather large size, and what is more,
they flower at a time when other bulbous plants
are scarce. We treat it as an evergreen bulb ;
therefore it is never dried off, and no particular
care is paid at any time to the amount of water
which it gets ; nevertheless the soil is never
allowed to get at any time dust dry. When
kept constantly in a greenhouse temperature it
never flowered. Now we keep it in an inter¬
mediate temperature all the winter, returning
it to the greenhouse early in May, and under
this treatment it flowers regularly every year.
-J. C. C.

12138.— Repotting Ferns.— Ferns grow¬
ing in a cool house should be repotted in April.
This is about the time that the Maiden-hair
commences to form fresh fronds and that new
roots begin to form. One very important point
in connection with Ferns is not to over-pot, as
many kinds, not being strong rooted, fail to
obtain possession of the new soil, which is thus
liable to become close and sour. If a plant is
in a 4£-inch pot shift into a 6-inch one, which
will amply suffice for one year. But it is often
far better not to repot, as Ferns will grow in
the same pots for years if watered once or twice
daily through the summer, according to the
weather. We have some which have been in
the same pots for three years, and they still
make good growth.—J. C. B.

ROSES.

EARLY ROSES.

In order to obtain the best results from forced
Roses, it is desirable to delay placing them in
artificial heat until the days get long enough to
afford them sufficient light to give strength and
consistency to the leaves and branches. This
applies especially to Hybrid Perpetuals, which
do not respond so readily to an increase of
temperature as Tea-scented varieties. I am
aware that it is possible to get Hybrid Per¬
petuals in flower as early as February, but
blooms obtained so early are wanting in colour,
and the petals arc thin and small. Unless
wanted for some special purpose, they should
not be placed in heat so early as to render it
needful to afford them a high temperature in
order to bring them into flower. The best Roses
are those upon plants that have been allowed to
come on slowly in an ordinary greenhouse
temperature. Roses to be thus dealt with
should be pruned in December, and allowed to
remain in some structure just secure from frost,
w’here they will get sufficient protection to
induce the buds to form and gradually develop.
The middle of February is soon enough to give
them an increase of temperature, and then the
day maximum heat ought not to exceed 55 degs.,
10 degs. less being allowed at night. Under
this treatment they come on without any increase
of artificial temperature until the flower-buds
are visible ; during this time they should have a
very light position and be as near the glass as
they can be got without coming in actual contact
with it. Gentle syringing night and morning
will assist in promoting vigorous growth, and
regular supplies of manure water will also help
them. They will bear such a gentle stimulant
as often as they require water. Respecting the
Temperature for forcing Roses, apart
from whether it be early or late in the season,
the cultivator is perforce limited in its application
if he desires a full measure of success. While
the young growth is forming, and up to the
time when the flower-buds are visible, forcing
must be slow, or the flowers will be few in
number, and the growth drawn and weak. After
flower-buds are formed, a moderate increase
of temperature is quite safe, but at no period
of their growth should the maximum heat
exceed 70 degs. during the daytime, and then
they must have abundance of light and a mo¬
derate amount of air ; but up to the end ofMarch
60 degs. by day, and 50 degs. by night, would
suit them better than 10 degs. higher, but 50
degs. would not be sufficient to get them into
flower very early. As growth advances it should
be neatly tied out, so that each branch stands
separate from the others, and in the case of old
plants something more stimulating than manure
water is desirable. For such purposes we use
some of the chemical manures now in the market,
a large tablespoonful of which for a 12-inch
| pot is sufficient. The first supply should be

given as soon as the flower-buds can be seen,
and another in about a fortnight afterwards.

A thin shade on the glass on very bright days
will keep the plants from beingseverely distressed j
by the action of strong sunshine. Gentle syringing
must be keep up until the flowers begin to open,
unless an attack of mildew should set in. In
that case a drier atmosphere should be main¬
tained for a few days, and the infested leaves
dusted with flowers of sulphur. In the early
stages of growth the Rose maggot must be looked
for, every curled leaf must be examined, and
the pest destroyed.

Treatment after flowering. —Forced Roses
are sometimes hardly dealt with after they go
out of flower. They are set about in odd corners
in cold, draughty positions. Such treatment is
not right. Roses forced early require nearly as
much care after they have done flowering as
before ; the new-made growth requires to be
gradually hardened before it is exposed to the
open air. As a matter of fact, a good deal of the
next year’s success depends on how the plants
are treated when they go out of flower. If the
leaves are allowed to develop and harden up in
a gradually reduced temperature compared with
that of the forcing-house, there is a much better
chance of their producing a good crop of flowers
the next year, than is the case when they are
exposed to a low temperature suddenly after
being brought from a warm structure. Even
those which flower in May should be gradually
hardened off before they are placed in the open
air. A deep pit from which the lights can be
taken during the day, in favourable weather, is
the most suitable structure in which to harden
off forced Roses. J. C. C.

12153.— Planting Roses. —From now to
the end of November is the best time to plant
Roses, including all varieties and all sizes.
The old maxim, “ Move a Rose in November it
must grow, transplant it afterwards it may,**
should always be borne in mind by amateurs,
as founded on the results of practical and pro¬
fessional gardening. At this season of the
year the roots of Roses (and indeed most plants)
are very active, and the descending sap has a
great influence on the formation of new' roots.
Trench and manure the ground well, and if
necessary give a surface dressing, and other¬
wise protect the plants from severe frosts.—
J. P., Lancashire.

12111.— Roses. —I notice that “J. O. E.,”
in his list, has several errors in the names. It
is of the first importance, I always think, for
blooms, &c., to be correctly staged, and so,
perhaps, he will allow me to give the following
corrections for the benefit of intending pur¬
chasers : Devienne-Lamy, Henry Ledechanx,
Julius Finger, Mdlle. Eugenie Verdier, Marie
Baumann, Merveille de Lyon, Nardy Freres,
Ulrich Brunner Fils (Lady Mary Fitzwilliam is
a Hybrid Tea), Anna Olivier, La Boule d’Or,
Madame Eugene Verdier, Madame Villermoz
(comma between President and Rubens),

Souvenir d’Elise Vardon. A reference to the
list at page 389 will make the corrections
intelligible. May I be allowed to add a few
other Roses worthy of a place in any collection!
—(a) H.P. : Auguste Rigotard, Beauty of
Waltham, Boule de Neige, Captain Christy,
Charles Lefebvre, Countess of Rosebery,
Duchess of Bedford, Duke of Edinburgh, Due
de Wellington, Dupuy Jamain, General
Jacqueminot, Le Havre, Lord Frederick
Cavendish, Lord Macaulay, Louis Van Houtte,
Madame Gabriel Luizet, Madame La Charme,
Mdlle. Annie Wood, Mdlle. Marie Rady,
Marechal Vaillant, May Quennell, Mrs. Jowitt,
Mrs. Laxton, Pierre Notting, Prince Camille
de Rohan, Star of Waltham, Thomas Mills,
Xavier Olibo. (5) Noisette Roses : Bouquet
d’Or, Celine Forestier. (c) Tea-scented : Adam,
Homer, Innocente Pirola, Madame Berard,
Madame Falcot, Madame Welch, Perle des
Jardins, Reine Marie Henriette, Souvenir d’un
Ami. ( d) Hybrid Tea, Bourbon, &c. : Cheshunt
Hybrid, Souvenir de Malmaison, Madame
Isaac Pereire, Geant des Bat&illes, Mrs.
Bosanquet.— William Walters, Burton-on-
Trent.

Popular names of plants. -We understand that j

a dictionary of plants,with their English or common]
names, is about to be issued by Mr. John Murray. Tho
work which is by Win Miller, vnT. provo a i<reat boon tn
plant cultivators, and especially to tnoee who hard
difficulty in mastering the Latin names of garden f.owora

Nov. 1, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

410

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

Ooleworts.—Ifc seems strange that so few
should take the pains to secure a supply of tender¬
hearted Cabbages through the winter months.
By sowing a proper kind early in July, trans¬
planting on to good ground early in September,
ni» medium-sized hearts will be formed by
November, which, cut anywhere through the
winter, are delicious. Hard winters are apt to
destroy, therefore it is a good plan to take them
up and lay them in thickly in a sheltered place.
Then in very hard weather a little litter ensures
their safety, the slight amount of labour incurred
being more than repaid by a constant supply of
fresh tender greens. — Byfleet.

12083.—'Vegetables for exhibition.—
The following are the best kinds :—Cos Lettuce :
Kingsholm or Paris White. Broad Beans:
Seville Longpod or Harlington Wonder. Red
Celery: Major Clarke’s or Manchester Cham¬
pion. White Celery : Yates’ Prize White or
Wright’s Giant White. Vegetable Marrow :
Long Cream. Peas : Marvel or Omega. French
Beans : Canadian Wonder or Monster Long-
podded Negro. Scarlet Runners : Champion.
Potatoes (Kidney) : Snowflake or Salmon
Kidney; round, Schoolmaster or Grampion.
Sow and plant at the usual times, giving the
Peas, Beans, and Lettuces plenty of room, and
thinning the produce of all, so as to force extra
growth. Lancashire Bob is a heavy Goose
berry, bnt it is doubtful if a bush planted this
autumn would produce exhibition fruit.—J. P.,
Lincashirc.

12122.—Lettuce for light soil.— Dry,
light soil on a southern “slope”—no worse
conditions could be chosen for the culture of
Lettnce in summer. Having had to labour
under similar disadvantages, I will state the
method by which I have been fairly successful.
Tall Peas (the plus ultra of British Queen) are
sown in rows from east to west to give a little
shade. Between the Peas beds are made 3 feet
wide and heavily manured. On these the
Lettuce is sown in drills 1 foot apart. In very
dry weather the Lettuce must be thoroughly
well watered twice daily, and the Peas once a
day. Cos varieties, in spite of every care,
rarely come to perfection in dry, hot weather.
They begin to “bolt ” almost from the day they
germinate. I have, therefore, quite abandoned
their cultivation in the summer months. Any
of the Cabbage tribe will do well with care, but
the most easily managed is American Gathering.
In the past hot season not more than half per
cent, have “ bolted,” and I have even now fine
plants some a foot across.—P. H.

VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION.

No work in the kitchen garden is more inte¬
resting than that of cultivating vegetables for
exhibition. It is in many respects an unlimited
subject, as the quality of the produce can never
be too high, or cultivators and exhibitors too
numerous, and they may belong to all classes,
from the owner of a garden many acres in
extent to a cottager who only rents a small
allotment. Where vegetables are exhibited
often extensively and successfully it is a pretty
true sign that vegetable culture receives proper
attention and that the soil is well tilled. No
ground is allowed to remain empty in the
garden of one who grows vegetables for
exhibition, and everything which can be
converted into manure is taken advantage
of. Some say that when a cultivator begins to
grow for exhibition, crops for everyday use are
made a secondary consideration, and that except
at certain periods there is a deficiency in the
supply, but that is a mistake, as crops through¬
out the year must be of the highest excellence to
enable extensive selection to be made for success¬
ful competition. For instance, anyone wishing
to exhibit a dozen Cauliflowers in June would
sever think of only growing a dozen plants to
secure that number of fine heads, but scores, or
?ren more, as the case might be, and, therefore, a
surplus of fine heads would be the result; and this
*ould happen in the case of all crops at all
j seasons. There is, moreover, the desire which
*?ery exhibitor possesses of growing only im¬
proved varieties of everything, ajid the best show
T £getables are also the bestffor table lin->
deed, they cannot be oflherVroe. v^Ulfts
‘Autumn Giant Cauliflower, for instasel, is

one of the very best for exhibition purposes,
and a better Cauliflower for ordinary use could
not be. Intermediate Carrot is vastly superior
to the Long Surrey for exhibition, and so it is
also for the table. The handsome smooth fruit
of the Drumlanrig Tomato is better than that
of distorted kinds, and Drumhead Cabbages
would stand no chance, either in a show-room
or on a dinner table, with the variety called
Red braes. The only exception to this rule may
probably be found in Potatoes, as among these
the handsomest looking, such as International
Kidney and Porter’s Excelsior amongst rounds,
are inferior in quality to others less attractive
iu appearance ; still, many of the newer sorts,
such as Schoolmaster, Covent garden Perfec¬
tion, and others, are not without merit. Before
success can be attained the

Soil must be got into proper condition. Few
crops can be brought to any great degree of per¬
fection in poor, shallow soil; richness and deep¬
ness in the way of tilth are necessary in order
to secure perfect development. A deeply-dug
and well-manured soil will always produce good
vegetables, but a Boil which may produce fine
Cabbages, Cauliflowers, Brussels Sprouts, and
similar crops may not be capable of growing
beautiful, clean Carrots, Parsnips, Beetroots, &c.,
as while the former delight to feed on fresh lumps
of manure, and abundance of it, the latter can
only be had clean and perfect where the ground
can be penetrated freely without causing the
roots to emit prongs and rootlets, which they
are apt to do in newly manured soil. All such
crops should be grown in soil which was well
manured the previous year. Heavy land may
always be made suitable for roots by adding
sand, road scrapings, or leaf-soil, and insects,
which are so injurious to some crops, especially
Carrots, may be prevented from doing much
harm by the judicious application of soot, lime,
or salt. Potatoes can only be had of the largest
size by the aid of plenty of manure. Peas, too,
delight iu abundance of this stimulant, and so
do Onions, Leeks, Broad Beans, and Celery.
Leeks for show cannot bo too large, and the
more blanched the stem is the better. Onions
can never be too large, provided they are good
in shape and perfectly solid. In spring and
early summer autumn-sown Onions are best for
exhibitions, but after the month of August
spring-sown ones, if well grown, are generally
the best. Celery, when strong, spotless, and
well blanched, is an excellent vegetable for
exhibition, and a good dish of it always com¬
mands attention.

An ordinary amount of manure will grow
Celery more firm and crisp than a superabund¬
ance of it. Of water it can scarcely have too
much, and the soil with which it is earthed up
should always be quite free from grubs, as it is
these which disfigure the stems. Soil whioh
will produce clean Carrots will always grow
perfect Celery, and with us these two crops are
never grown far apart. Undue crowding must
be strictly avoided in growing vegetables for
exhibition, but at the same time it is quite un¬
necessary to allow more space between the
rows or plants than is really wanted. Onions,
for instance,'grown 6 inches apart should just be
as fine as any which could be produced at 12
inches apart. Timely attention in the way of
sowing, planting, and thinning are important
points, and good results are not so much a
question of space as of system and order. Un¬
successful exhibitors who have never given their
vegetable crops due attention often think and
say, when they see some high-class vegetables
shown, that more means than can be commonly
employed have been taken to produce them, but
iu the majority of cases that is not so ; there is,
indeed, no secret whatever in the matter of
growing good vegetables ; all they want is sound
cultivation, care, and attention. Some crops
may be stimulated by strong manures, and these
may be the means of forcing certain things into
prominence, but to depend on stimulants to pro¬
duce all kinds of vegetables fit for exhibition is
a great mistake.

Artificial manures are deficient in sustain¬
ing powers, and therefore both crops and soil
would ultimately suffer were no other manures
used. Fertilisers, in the shape of top-dressings
or manure water, mav be employed with advan¬
tage at certain times during the season, especially
in over-dry or poor soils, but I would never
recommend anyone to grow show vegetables
in suoh a (if I may be allowed to use the term)

spasmodic way. The mainspring of success does
not rest on such fits and starts, but on the general
high condition of the soil—the result of good
cultivation. Quality must be the sole charac¬
teristic of vegetables for exhibition, and this
can only be obtained by steady, persistent
growth.

In selecting vegetables for exhibition, pre¬
ference should be given to those varieties that
require most skill in cultivation. In unlimited
collections specimens of everything may bo
shown, but where prizes are offered for collec¬
tions of six, nine, or twelve sorts only the
choicest should be taken. A good collection
of six kinds should consist of Peas, Kidney
Beans, Cauliflowers, Tomatoes, Potatoes, and
Carrots. In the case of nine dishes I would
add Cucumbers, Celery, and Vegetable Marrows,
and in that of twelve Turnips, Globe Arti¬
chokes, and Leeks or Onions. Larger collections
should include Broad Beans, Runner Beans,
Asparagus, Beetroot, Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts,
Parsnips, Salsify, Savoys, Lettuces, &o. Rhu¬
barb is sometimes shown as a vegetable, but it is
not distinct enough to make a good dish. In
single dishes a number of Cabbages or Savoys
would stand no chance of beiDg placed before
good Tomatoes, Celery, Carrots, Cauliflowers,
Potatoes, and similar produce, and in order to
exhibit successfully attention must be paid to
these matters. Over-grown vegetables or those
past their best are not suitable for exhibition;
they should be just on the eve of their prime,
and it must never be forgotten that quantity
can never make up for want of quality. In
a really first-class collection of vegetables every
dish should be good enough to win were it
placed in the single classes, and unless that
is so disappointment is sure to bo the result.
One of the best collections of vegetables I ever
exhibited was shown at Gloucester in 1S80,
when four Cauliflowers beat twenty-four, anil
six Onions weighing 24 ounces each were pre¬
ferred to heaps of two dozen. These are
instances of quality being of more importance
than quantity.

A plan often resorted to is to show collections
with one or two good specimens in each dish,
and the remainder inferior—an unprofitable
mode of exhibiting. In preparing vegetables
for exhibition, all superfluous matter in the form
of loose leaves Bhould be trimmed off and only
the useful parts left. Roots should be washed
clean, but any kind of polishing should never
be attempted. In dishing up and arranging no
particular plan need be followed, but every¬
thing should be shown off to advantage.
All kinds of salad plants may be included, but,
with the exception of Cucumbers, none of them
can be shown to win against good vegetables of
the ordinary types. At many shows, however,
there are salad classes. Cucumbers, Lettuces,
Endive, Radishes, Mustard and Cress, Beetroot,
and Celery are amongst the chief subjects which
come under this heading. Cucumbers should
never be too old when shown; young and
tender specimens alone merit a prize. Fruits
from 12 inches to 20 inches in length are
generally preferred to yard long ones. Lettuces
should be crisp and firm and always well blanched
in the centre. The Batavian Endive is the
best, but this is chiefly used as a winter salad.
Radishes may consist of both the long and short-
rooted varieties, and they may be red or white
in colour, but they must be clean skinned and
firm at the core. Apart from Celery being a
first rate vegetable, it must be included as a
salad, and when well grown carries great weight
in any exhibition. The

Importation of vegetables into this country
is very considerable, and the only way to
lessen it with advantage is to improve and ex¬
tend vegetable cultivation. At exhibitions, as
a rule, vegetables are not fairly dealt with. I
have often seen more money offered for half-a-
dozen Pelargoniums than for a dozen dishes of
the best ana choicest vegetables. Let us hope,
however, that improvement in this direction
will soon be forthcoming, and that ere long
awards for good productions in the way of
vegetables will not be left to be wholly made by
our leading seedsmen.

Gishuretine.— This is the best article we havo ever
tried for garden boots. It softens the leather and makes
the boot warm and comfo»-table, and at the seme time it
resists wet Another advantage is that the hoots take a
polish directly after its use, or, at least, as soon as they
get dry. It is nr ade by Pri c»’e Cand k Comjiar.v, Ea tl t rse i,
and is now sold by most seedsmen.

420

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Nov. 1, 18S4.

SOME REASONS FOR NOT BEING A
VEGETARIAN.

One tale is good until another is told. The
reasons f--r being a vegetarian, quoted from the
Pall Mull Gazette, leave out of consideration
w hat must really settle the question. The kind
of food which a living creature can assimilate is
settled by the nature of the organs of assimila¬
tion. A carnivorous animal cannot digest
vegetables any more than a gramnivorous
animal can live on flesh. The digestive organs
of the human subject are suited to a mixed diet
of flesh and vegetables, the teeth even combining
the characters of a carnivorous and gramni¬
vorous animal.

In the human subject there is much greater
variety than in any of the lower animals. Some
subjects have a long intestine and an organiza¬
tion which points to a suitability for living on
vegetable foods. Other subjects have a short in¬
testine and an organization which is almost
carnivorous. The mistake that vegetarians
make is in imagining that the dietary which
keeps them in perfect health is suitable for every¬
body. A vegetable diet has quite as bad an
effect on a man naturally carnivorous as a diet
of flesh has on a man naturally a vegetable
feeder. The good old English dishes, bacon and
beans, and beef and greens, represent the kind
of feeding suitable to the organization of the
great bulk of the Anglo-Saxon race.

The kind of food which should be avoided in
hot weather is all food-containing heat-producing
substances, which are not required by the
human system when the temperature of the air
is about blood-heat.

White, or ordinary baker’s bread, consisting,
as it does, greatly of a substanco known as Rice
cones—which is pure starch—Rice, Cornflower,
Potatoes, and fat, should not be eaten in very
hot weather. Lean meat, fish, Peas and Beans,
and cooked green vegetables are the foods for hot
■weather, as they supply flesh-forming substances
almost exclusively. Before food can become part
of the animal frame it has first to bo changed
into living blood. This change is effected by the
process of digestion. Animal food is much
uearer blood in its composition than vegetable
food, and when fresh and carefully cooked is
the easiest to digest of all food except new milk
and raw eggs. All vegetable foods are difficult
to digest, Txjing farther from blood in their com¬
position. Gramnivorous animals have a much
more complicated digestive apparatus than
carnivorous animals.

Hurried meals are a fertile source of indiges¬
tion. Food improperly mixed with saliva lies in
the stomach until it ferments through decay,
and cannot be healthy food. This is especially
the case with vegetable foods. The most fertile
source of all disorders proceeding from food
is making the heaviest meal of the day at a
time when nature never intended any food to be
eaten. The nervous force which is the motive
power of the human system is sent to the
digestive organs with increasing energy from
sunrise until noon, after which time it rapidly
declines, and the digestive organs go to rest, as
it were, until the following morning. A man
with a weak digestion can eat a dinner at twelve
which would ruin his digestion if partaken of
three hours later. I have witnessed lately a man
who was a confirmed late diner take to dining
at one instead for a week or two, (the result
being a rapid improvement in health and
brightness. Twelve is nature’s dinner hour,
and should be strictly adhered to by all who
value health of body and mind. A friend with
a very weak digestion and a tendency to chronic
dyspepsia manages to retain good health and is
likely to live to a good age simply through
making nine o’clock breakfast the principal meal
of the day, aud taking nothing but light
refreshment after. There is one matter which
is a great discouragement to vegetarianism,
and that is the bad quality of the cereal food
offered to the British public. The principal
constituents of grains are starch and gluten.
The starch is heat-giving, the gluten flesh¬
forming ; the starch is white, the gluten of a
yellowish cream or pale drab colour. White
bread can only bo made from flour which
contains far too much starch to be a
nourishing food. Red Wheats make the most
nourishing food, »s ^hvy contam more gluten
’10 more iron, ifceadjwjbcb fcli 4 t|ri 9 hing and

1,1 for food is dirty in colour^srpiilar to Italian

macaroni) and tough. Pure white bread which
crumbles in the mouth is not food, but heating
substance only. Poor people, who cannot afford
to give their children meat, vegetables, and
milk, should give them real whole meal bread
only—that is, bread made from the Wheat grain
as it grows, minus the bran, in which state it is
a perfect food. Giving children white bread is
little better than starving them. Rice is not
food but heating substance. An Indian colonel
showed our rice to a Hindoo, and he said his
fowls would starve on it. And yet the Hindoos
and Chinese live almost entirely on Rice. The
difference is that the Rice sold in England is
starved to make it white, and contains scarcely
any gluten. Properly grown Rice is round, like
Peas, is rich in gluten, and makes a golden flour.

White Maize is pure starch. Corn flour, to
be a food, should be of a golden colour. With
few exceptions it may be said that vegetable
foods which are white are scarcely foods at all,
for they are poor in flesh-forming substance, and
an ordinary English dietary, comprising, as it
does, plenty of fat and sugar, scarcely requires
starch to be eaten in any form. A revolu¬
tion in bread is very much wanted. About
eight years ago an advertisement appeared
in the London papers in these words:—
“ To Bakers.—Use Rice cones, and save a guinea
a sack.” Whatever these Rice cones are made
from they are pure starch, since their introduc¬
tion bread has ceased to be a nourishing food,
and to eat it has simply been to overload the
stomach with a useless, heating, and, in many
cases, indigestible substance. To test the
quality of wheaten flour mix a tablespoonful
into a pasto with cold water, and place it in a
muslin bag ; allow water to run through the
bag until it comes through pure. A gelatinous
substance will remain—that is, the gluten or
flesh-forming part of the Wheat. Of course, the
muslin must be such as will allow the starch to
pass, and retain the gluten. J. D.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

11011.—Preserving French Beane.—
After being cleaned, thread them in suitable
lengths, one by one, near the end ; then dip
them in boiling water, with a little salt, and let
them boil for a few minutes. Drain them and
put them away in a dry place until required for
use. When wanted in the winter, unthread the
requisite quantity, put them in a dish, and pour
boiling water over them ; cover the dish, and let
it remain for about an hour. The Beans will
then be quite soft. You have now only to put
them in boiling water^and cook them like fresh
ones. Residing myself in Russia, and vegetables
not being obtainable during the winter months,
I preserve every year large quantities of these
Beans as described above. Only be very careful
to have them well dried ; it is safe to examine
them now and then, after they have been put
away, and, if showing any signs of mouldiness,
hang them to dry again.— Frenchman.

12104. — Loughborough boiler. — In
answer to “Junius” I have to say that the
Loughborough boiler is placed inside a tool house
built against one gable of a lean-to greenhouse.
The principal reason for this is that it is very
inconvenient to have to kindle and stoke and
work about a fire in the open air, and exposed
to the winter storms. In a closed building one’s
patience is not so much tried as it would be if
it were necessary to Btand out in the rain and
cold. Besides this, the fuel can be kept ready
to hand, and in good order for kindling. To
set the boiler inside the greenhouse would
never do. Some smoke will come out when
opening the feeding door during the process of
firing, and this repeated a few times would ruin
the plants. Even if this could be avoided the
heat from the stove would not bo under sufficient
command, and it might be so strong at times as
to endanger the plants at that end of the house.
It W'ould be an improvement if these and other
close boilers could be made non-corrosive
inside. In most, if not all of them, the water,
after a little while, gets quite red with rust, and
there is frequently an ugly red scum floating in
the cistern.—P. It.

12119.— Moles. —A lady in southern Ohio
told me she got rid of moles from her garden

(surrounded by a wooden paling), where they
had been troublesome, by sowing seeds of
lticinus in various parts, which either poisoned
or otherwise annoyed the little animals, for they
disappeared. The lticinus grows freely in Ohio
as a common annual, ripening seed in the open
air ; so, probably, seeds in quantity for such a
purpose might be obtained more cheaply from
United States, America. In Ireland we have no
moles (thanks to St. Patrick, says the legend),
and we are not aware that we suffer from their
absence, unless an odd naturalist may deplore
our loss.— Spinster.

11952, 12140. — Heating small green¬
house. —For heating small greenhouses there
is nothing so convenient as a properly-con¬
structed gas stove. Last year I tried one
heated with a Bunsen burner, but when the
wind was in the east it was rendered a failure by
reason of down-draught, which an exhaust cowl
failed to cure. I then tried a lamp stove, but
the smell after a few hours was abominable,
the heat insufficient, and not under control. I
have now' in use with perfect success in all
winds an adaptation of Fletcher’s 3-feet tubular
stove. I enclosed the front and bottom air¬
tight, and provided a small sliding glass door
for lighting and observation ; I laid an inlet
pipe from outside, facing east, under the floor,
and connected it to bottom of stove, taking a
flue through the roof of greenhouse to carry off
the fumes, so that adown-draught into greenhouse
is impossible. The flue at the roof level is only
just warm, showing that practically the whole
of the heat given off from the gas is utilised in
the greenhouse. The consumption of gas can
be regulated from 2 to 18 feet per hour, and the
heat is equally effective in proportion. I
should be happy to give your correspondents
exact constructive details by letter, or I will
send you a sketch if you think it worth en¬
graving. — D. P. Rodgers, 40, JTazcIville - road ,
London , N.

12162. — Plants for Australia. — In
answer to “0. P. Q.’s” query, I may say that
I have had experience of bringing home plants
from Australia. I stowed away in a locker in
my cabin two fine tree Ferns, and, on examin¬
ing them, found their crowms had been eaten
by rats, which abound on board ship. But this
is not the only difficulty in regard to plants
for the colonies. Water is so scarce in ships
that there is just enough and no more for wash¬
ing and culinary purposes generally. I should
advise 11 O. P. Q.” to leave his plants at home,
and take out seeds of the newest and best
florist flowers, and also herbaceous seeds.
Those which will stand heat and drought are
the best. Last hot season they had six months
in New South Wales without rain. I may men
tion that Verbenas grow beautifully out there,
so I should advise him to take out seed of as
many colours as he can procure.—G. H. D.

12160.— Bamboos. —Many of the Bambu.^
tribe will do well in this country, and should
succeed in Cheshire. I have one which has
grown well in my garden in Lancashire, and I
intend to make a further planting. They
thrive best in a moist situation, good soil, with
full sun. Messrs. Richard Smith and Co., of
Worcester, supply several varieties, both dwarf
and tall, amongst them B. Fortunei, nana, aud
Ragamowski, as dwarfs ; and B. Maximowiczi,
nigra, and violescens, growing from S to 10 feet
high.—J. P., Lancashire.

1215S.— Gardening for profit. —No doubt
three acres of good garden ground could be so
cultivated as to pay the working expenses : but
the gardening must be of a practical, ndt fanci¬
ful, kind, and crops of vegetables and small
fruits raised, which, after supplying the house,
will leave a good residue for sale. Thus, pro¬
perly utilised, it wdll be self-supporting, and if
in the neighbourhood of a large town, cut
flowers may be readily disposed of.—J. P.,
Lancashire .

An Amateur. —Jerusalem Artichokes flower freely In ^
warm Boils in some parts of England, but, os a rule, in %
most places they get cut of! before the stems are sufficiently >
matured to bear flowers.

Names of p’ant e .— E . A. Butterlan.— 1, Polypodium j; 5
vulgnre var. ; 2, Pteris cretica albo-lineita ; 3. P. trcroula H

4, Farfuglum grande.- J. E. V.— Next week.- K. B. — r

1, Adiautum tenerum ; 2, Yitis hetarophylla variegata; 3,1

A’anhoa: inciaa ; 4, Khodochiton volubile.- <

jtea#*n—Phytolacca decandr*.-/. N. P .—Pyrus vestital

—— Mimk’- Apos&rs to be Bwiiura.- VovnM ^

Oardeiur.—l, Cyrteaeira fulgens; 2, Pilea mu»cosa; M \

Nov. 1, 1884.]

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

421

Peperomla arifolia ; 4, Sonerila margaritacea.- J. Bed.—

Sea Lavender; Statice Limonium.——■ John R. Robinson.—
The woody-stemmed plant appears to be CEnothora fruti-
cosa, while that labelled Trachetlum cooruleum is correctly
D:vraed. It is a half-hardy herbaceous plant.

Names of fruit.— G. A.— Cannot name the nuts with¬
out leaves, and description of the tree, and whence they

were gathered.- J. K. Colling *.—Cannot name from

specimen sent. Please read our rules for correspondents.

- R. KeiswtU. —1, Winter Helis ; 2, Don't know. See our

rules for correspondents ; 3, Cox’s Orange Pippin ; 4, Glori

Mundi; 5, Prince Albert.- S. W. S.—t, Duchesse

d'Angoulcme ■, other not known.- J. Baylis .—You do not

attach numbers to your fruits.- R. M.— Jacques’ Early

J a*ien. — G. F. T. —1, King of the Pippins ; 2, Not known ;

3. Lemon Pippin ; 4, Cox’s Orange Pippin.- Reader. —1,

Tibbet’a Pearmain ; 2. Kibston Pippin ; 3, Not known ; 4,

Norfolk Beaufln.- J. Honx.— 1, Golden Noble ; 2, Alfris-

ton ; 3, Beauty of Kent; 4, Rhode Island Greening.-
Cetiturion .—Apple not known ;avery fine sort; 3, Duchesse

d’AngouHme ; 4, Beurrc Bose.- Emeralil.—2, Glou Mor-

ceau ; 3, Charlotte de Brouwer.- J . Shanklaiul. —Far-

leigh Pippin.- Violettt .—Trumpington or Eve Apple.-

M. B. £. C .—Pear Black Achan.-5. F. —1, Summer

Strawberry ; 4, Blenheim Orange ; others not known.-

A. C. H. O. —Large White Apple, Manks Codlin ; small
yellow Apple, Small’s Golden Pippin.- M. G. —1, Blen¬

heim Orange ; 2, Nonsuch; 3, King of the Pippins ; 4, Not
known.-Others next week.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.—All commimications
for insertion should be c>early and concisely written on one
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the pajxr. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
amxtrcd. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper Owing to the necessity oj
Gari>ksino going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com-
unifications the u-eek they are received. Queries not answered
should be sent to us again.

Naming’ plants or fruit.— Four plants, fruits, or
flowers only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens are sent. We do not undertake tc
name varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any tntnmnn.[ration respecting plants or fruit sent to
■name should aheays accompany the parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
specimens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12130.—A chime nes not flowering,— My Achi
menea grow well, show bloom buds, but never open into
flower. What should be done to bloom them ?— Hititk.

12L81.— Hoya carnosa — I have a plant several years
rid, which makes healthy growth, yet never blooms. What
should be done to bloom it?—H ititk.

121S2.— Gaillardias for next year’s blooming.—
What should be done with Gaillardias for next year’s
blooming ? They are now’ In flower in open garden. What
compost and position suit them best ?— Hititk.

12181— Marechal Niel Rose.— Is not the following
growth of a young Marechal Nlel Rose somewhat remark¬
able? The plant was planted in my greenhouse this
spring, and, after throwing a few buds (which I at once
nipped off), started growing. It threw out two main
shoots within a few inches of each other, and these have
grown the whole length of the house, which measures
20 feet I have measured the growth of these two during
the past four weeks, and find that one of them has covered
rather over 52 inches, and the other 58 inches ; in this
latter case rather over 2 inches a-day. Please say if it
would be wise to stop them at once (in which case. I pre¬
sume, they would break into flower), or to turn and let
them on in other directions. There has been other (poor)
growth on the Rose, but this latter is mostly mildewed ;
and 1 should like to know whether it should not be cut
awav entirely, just leaving these two 20-feet shoots to pro
duce laterals.—W. It.

12134 . — Geraniums In winter. —Will someone
kindly inform me how to treat pot Geraniums now at the
approach of winter? Should they be cut down, repotted,
and what kind of soil is best? I have several Ivy-leafed
Geraniums growing very tall. Should they be cut down,
and to what extent ?—Piiilokalos.

12185. — Arum Lily.—I have an Arum Lily (white
spotted-leaf variety), which has just died down, and has
left on the top of pot (above the roots) about a dozen
young bulb9 about the size of a Walnut. Some of them
have roots. Are they of any use, and if so what i9 their
treatment, and is there a chance of bloom for next
summer? I should like all in one pot if that will do.—
North Londoxbr.

12183.— Deutzia gracilis.— This spring I had from a
nursery a plant of this Deutzia. It must have been an
old one, as the roots hod grown through the pot and all over
the top. I had to reduce the roots to get it into an 8-inch
pot. I shortened the tops of the foliage, and it produced
tgood deal of now, but no flowers ; it is now plunged in
‘.lie garden. What is best to do with it ?—C. T. R.

12187.— Liillum longiflorum.— I put three bulbs in a
Vinch pot last November ; they came up strong, and con-
‘^aaed so right through this summer. Two of them sent
■stwo stems each, but formed no flower buds; the other
'4fmed about 2 inches long and then dropped off. Will
eycne please advise what is best to do under these cir-
-mstxnces ? I have a small greenhouse which I can heat
8 keep out frost.—C. T. R.

12188.— Black Currant disease.— Can anyone give

scare for the above, or is it incurable? also what is
federally thought to be the cause of it ? Are new bushes
able to take it on if planted in the same ground where
iWected bushes were taken out of#—St C.

12189.—Aza Leas not bloodkingi-lViab <eJlUi?
«eneone will inform me how to trekt^frtenhous(L.jiijaie
I have several whioh I have exposed In the op«i-4ir for '

shell and the Admiral feed on Nettles only, so they can bo
let alone. So will “J. D. E. ” kindly tell us what kinds to
kill, as his advice is of little good to those residing near
London ; or, better still, let him save all the caterpillars,
rear the butterflies, and I am sure the entomologists would
only be too glad to take all the specimens of a Geranium
butterfly th*t he might raise. —H bnry Aris, 38, Muriel •
street, Rarnslntry, N.

three months in summer for the last two years, but the
flower buds have not set. The plants seem quite healthy,
and do not appear to be growing much to wood.—J. R. W.

12190. — Bell© Lyonnai9© Rose. —Will anyone
kindly tell me how to treat this Rose? It has grown
luxuriantly on a wall with south exposure, being from
9 feet to 10 feet high, but it has not flowered, though 1
have had it for several years. The soil is not wet, and the
plant has only been slightly pruned.—J. R. W.

12191.—Pruning Rose cuttings —Should Rose
cuttings be pruned the first year? I pruned some this
spring and none flowered.—L knroc.

12192.—Dahlias from cuttings.—Al>out a month
ago I took some cuttings of Dahlias, which look to bo
flourishing. Are they likely to root?—L. M. L.

12193.— Liming 1 land.— Will anyone please say how
lime should be used among fruit trees and Cabbages?
Should it be well slaked and dug into the soil, and at what
season ? What effect has it on the land and crops?—A. A.
Allen.

12194. — Amaryllis longifolia alba. —How should I
treat Amaryllis longifolia alba as a window* plant ? I
believe mine is a young bulb; it has not flowered this
autumn, though the leaves are nearly 2 inches broad at
the base, and it has several offshoots round the bulb.
Should I remove these ? I hear it is not a true Amaryllis,
but a sub-aquatic plant, rightly called Crinum. Should I,
therefore, keep it wet all winter? When are its flowering
and resting seasons? Kindly give any information about
it.—A. S. P.

12195.—Weight of Peaches.— I had some Peaches
this year which weighed 8 ounces each, the crop at the
same time being pretty good. Is it an unusual size?
Would someone kindly let me know to what weight
Peaches may be grown?— Amateur.

12196.—Growing: Cucumbers.—I want to devote
my lean-to greenhouse to growing Cucumbers next spring
and summer. Would some correspondent kindly tell
me what other flowers would do well with them? also
is it necessary to use horse manure for growing Cucumbers,
or will cow and pig manure do os well ?—Rusticus.

12197.—Pear tree scale.—I have a Pear tree on a
wall, which is covered with scale. Will someone kindly
tell me how* to get rid of it? The tree grows well, but
does not bear fruit, though it had one or two pieces of
blossom on this last season.—B. B.

12193.— Gladioli failing 1 .— All my Gladioli, which
were planted in pots and plunged this year, failed ; those
in the open borders did remarkably well. I planted one
bulb in a 5-inch pot, and plunged about 3 inches below the
ground. Will anyone tell me why they failed.—S outh¬
down.

12199.—Watering plants with boiling water.—
I have a Fuchsia that I have habitually watered with boil¬
ing water, applied to the soil till it ran out at the bottom
of the pot. Till the other day it was growing vigorously
under this treatment, but has now come to an untimely
end, through being knocked over by a cat. I was just as
particular about the water actually boiling at the applica¬
tion os if I had been *' mashing ” the tea. I should like to
know if this plan has ever been tried before, and, if so,
what the ultimate results were. —Nbmo.

12200.— Creeper for thatched roof.— Is there any
creeper that will grow on the thatched roof of a summer
house which I want to cover ?—B.

12201.—Plants for stumps of trees.— I have two
very large stumps of trees which I am anxious to plant
tastefully. Will some experienced friend kindly advise
me as to most suitable ana effective plants and creepers ?
They must be hardy. Eastern Counties.—B.

12202. — Clematis not flowering. — I have a
Clematis inontana. It has never bloomed, though it is
four years old, and has made large growth. It grows on a
wall facing south-west. What should I do to it to induce
bloom? Should it be cut back? It has a strong stem
about the size of one’s little linger. Any information will
oblige.—F krndalb.

12203 — Heating small greenhouse.— Can any
reader tell me which is the best w’ay to warm a small
greenhouse where it iB impossible to have hot-water pipes
in the usual way ? Are oil lamps, as advertised, any use ;
or the stove advertised in Gardening as “ Roberts’’Terra
Cotta Stove ?” Any experience of other amateurs on this
matter would greatly oblige, as I do not want to get a stove
and then And it of no use. The house is chiefly‘filled with
Fer ns.—F krn dale.

12204.— Mandarin Orange tree.— I want to have a
Mandarin Orange tree growing in the centre of a conserva¬
tory (heated during winter). Can anyone give me in- 1
fonnatton as to the amount of heat necessary, and where a
good sized tree can be procured ?—Chblt.

12205.—Plants under trees.—I would feel greatly
obliged for the names of some autumn flowering plants
that would grow in a small plantation, more or less under
the shade of some Scotch Firs and small Oaks of about
forty years’ growth. The soil is peaty, but shallow’, no
lime. Rhododendrons grow pretty well. Would any
other shrubs or plants with handsome autumn foliage do ?
■ScOLOPENDBIUM.

12206 —Cherry tree not fruiting.— In a garden
I have just taken there is a Cherry tree about 14 feet high,
which makes very strong wood and large leaves—too
strong and too large, I am told, for fruiting. Can any
reader say if anything can be done to ensure fruit next
year?— A Constant Reader.

12207.— Caterpillars on Geraniums.— Like many
more I am rather in a fog as regards the answer given to
this query by “ J. D. E.” This answer is good in theory,
but in practice I feel doubtful. To kill the butterflies before
they lay their eggs is easy enough ; but it reads rather too
much like Herod’s order to kill all the male children to get
rid of a certain One, and that One escaped, to ask us to kill
the butterflies. He does not tell us w hat ones, neither does
he tell us where he resides that we can find out. Near
London we have but few butterflies, and many, perhaps,
like to see them in the garden. What is prettier than a
tortoiseshell sunning itself on a blue Lobelia? But to the
question. The white butterflies will not touch Geraniums,
touching Mignonette and Tropieolum, besides the
wort, so we need not kill them. The small tortoise-

BEES.

NATURAL HISTORY NOTES.

Now that the bees are snug in their winter
quarters, and will require but little more
attention till early spring, some little time may
be devoted to the study of the economy of the
hive. All who keep bees should be well versed
in their natural history—it is a most interesting
study.

Worker bees. —A prosperous colony numbers
from 20,000 to 50,000 worker bees, a few hundred
drones, which are called into existence at the
approach of the swarming season, and one
queen, who lays all the eggs from which the
inhabitants of the hive are produced. The
queen is distinguished by the comparative
length of her body and shortness of wings. The
number of eggs laid by her in one season is
remarkable. For weeks in succession, in tho
height of the season, she will lay, it is com¬
puted, over 2,000 eggs daily, depositing one egg
in each cell. The eggs are about a twelfth of
an inch in length, and are placed on end in
the centre of the cell. They are hatched in
from three to five days by the natural warmth of
the hive. The small white grub on being hatched
is provided with a whitish fluid by the nurse
bees, on which it feeds. About the ninth day
it attains its full growth, when the supply of
food is discontinued, and the mouth of the cell
closed up with a capping of wax. Upon the
larvce being enclosed it at once begins to line
the sides of its cell, and encase its own body
with fine silken threads, and gradually under¬
goes a great change—becomes clothed with a
harder coating having dark brown scales.
About the twenty-first day from which the egg
was laid the perfect worker bee, gnawing
through the cover, emerges from the cell, and
on the following day, weather permitting, flies
abroad. The life of the worker bee is very
short, during the summer months not being
longer than six or eight weeks, being soon worn
out with hard work in gathering and laying up
stores for the next generation; but those
hatched in the autumn live till the following
spring, and commence the work of the season.
The cells in which worker bees are reared are
smaller than those of drones. Five worker
cells measure one inch in width.

Drones.— The cells from which drones (male
bees) are hatched are more capacious than those
of workers, and are covered with lids much
more convex. One square inch of drone comb
contains sixteen cells on each side. The drone
becomes a perfect insect in about twenty-five
days from the time when the egg was laid, beiDg
four or five days longer in coming to maturity
than the worker. Drone bees lead an idle life,
and feed upon the produce of the labour of the
workers, but come to a sorrowful end, being at
the close of the honey season driven forth by
the workers, and allowed to perish. Drones
and drone broods are also often destroyed and
cast out of the hive during the summer, in
weather unfavourable to honey gathering.

Queen bee. —Cells in which queen bees are
reared resemble somewhat an acorn in shape,
being about an inch in depth, and much more
capacious than those of drones or workers, and
are formed with their mouths downward. They
are in an unfinished state when the eggs are
laid in them, but are gradually enlarged as the
grub increases in size. The walls of queen cells
are very thick, but as soon as the queen is
hatched they are cut down to the shape of a
small acorn cup, and the wax of which they are
composed used elsewhere. The queen matures
in from twelve to seventeen days from the egg.
A very curious and interesting fact in the
economy of the hive is that of bees having the
power of raising queens from worker eggs.
When a queen is lost, or dies unexpectedly,
and there are no eggs or grubs in royal cells,
the bees having ohosen a worker grub not more
than three days’ old, remove the walls of two
of the adjoining cells, thus making tho coll
containing the grub three times more ce.p&cions,
and work it out into the shape of a queen cell;

422

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nor. 1, 1884.

they give the selected grub special attention,
feeding it on the same kind of food as that
supplied to royal larvte. The result is that this
grub, which left undisturbed would have
developed into a worker in twenty-one days,
comes forth from the cell [in about fourteen
days a perfect queen, differing in size and in
every way from the worker bee. This is,
indeed, a wise provision of nature, because a
queenless colony must necessarily soon die out,
from the non-increase of population, being
without means of rearing brood. The old queen
who has passed the winter with her subjects
always leaves the hire with the first swarm in
the spring, but about four days before doing so
■wisely sets eggs in royal cells, so that young
queens may be maturing when the swarm
leaves. Should the state of the weather prevent
the swarm leaving at the right time, the young
queens are torn from the cells and destroyed,
as more than one queen may not occupy the
same hive, and swarming postponed for a week
or two, until more eggs are laid in queen cells.
The first princess who issues from its cell after
the departure of the swarm shows the greatest
jealousy to her rivals (though yet in embryo),
approaches their cells, and if not prevented by
the workers tears a hole in each and destroys
the inmates with her sting. Should it, how¬
ever, be intended that a second swarm should
leave the hive the royal cells are guarded by the
workers, who ward off the young queen’s
attempts to destroy her sisters, upon which she
runs up and down the hive making a piping
noise, which may be heard outside the hive.
This goes on for three days, and on the fourth
day, if the weather be favourable, she leaves the
hive with the second swarm, when the most
mature princess is allowed to leave her cell,
and take the place of her sister in the hive,
when she in her turn “ pipes,” and endeavours
to destroy the remaining queens in embryo,
which is permitted by the workers if no more
Bwarms are to leave the hive.

Boxxcorth. _S. S. G.

Queenless hive.—I should feel obliged
for some advice on the following matter in the
management of bees :—Some two months since
a swarm was driven and the bees placed in a
straw skep filled with empty combs. The bees
have been fed with syrup ever since, but on
examination to-day I find that they have none
stored, or anything done since they were put
in. What should be done, unite them to
another hive or get a queen ? as it looks as if
they had none; being in a skep leaves it more
difficult to examine them. Is it too late to get
a queen ; if not, where could an Italian one be
got, and price ?—S. F. P. [The swarm is, in all
probability, queenless. There being no sealed
stores in the hive, and as it is now too late to
feed up for winter, it is useless to introduce a
queen. The bees had better be united to a
strong colony at once. Ligurian queens can be
obtained of the leading hive manufacturers;
the price now (the cheapest time of the year)
is about 4s. fid. each.—S. S. G., Bozworth. J

A PENNY WATER CLEANER.

There seems to be just now a scare, partly
natural and partly artificial, about the whole¬
someness of water, in view of a dreaded invasion
of cholera. Nobody knows on direct evidence
whether cholera or fever be due to germs. The
evidence is indirect. Such illnesses, or rather
their causes, may be brought like Thistledown
on the wind, or, like ringworm, they may be
brought by first or second contact. The source
of ill multiplies quicklv. It is therefore like
yeast. It is stopped by the heat of boiling
water. So is all animal and plant life. The
balance of evidence now, I suppose, is that
catchable diseases are due to living germs. Now
it may be taken for granted that one and the
same living thing, whether plant or animal,
cannot live long both when wholly and perma¬
nently immersed in water, and when wholly and
permanently immersed in air. If there be a
germ whose habitat is water, and if it be ex¬
posed to the air, it faints and then dies, and is
straightway burnt up. You will guess now that
the moral of the penny purifier is aeration.
Subtle as the disease germs in water may be,
they shall not eBonpe the touch <rf the oxygeD. |
Therefore, in finllly nrfTtfyh j V [tc> by filtra-
tiou, let it run o\Vlilbl^t fc ncptf%!h*face ; and.

while so running, let it be freely exposed to
the air. A porous filter without aeration—a
mechanical filter—is of some use. You can get
rid of dead cats, mice, flies, and all things
greater in least diameter than the least dia¬
meter of the pores of the filter, through which
pores they lry to pass. But what would be the
use of keeping a mass of putrid matter at the
top of your filter ? You do not thus get rid of
germs, nor of organic matter, which is the hot¬
bed of germs.

In the water which has passed through some
of the most esteemed filters, I have found
“moving organisms” at least as large as the
vinegar worm. I do not say that these came
through the filter ; they may have reached the
water after it was filtered, in one or other stage
of development. They were undoubtedly bred
in the filtered water ; because, although the
filter may have removed the poultry, it did not
remove the grain upon which chickens feed, nor
probably the eggs from which they spring. I,
for my part, would no more hesitate to drink such
water than I would hesitate to drink water from
a brook in thich there were trout or tadpoles.
Nor would I more refuse to drink of water in
which there was dead organic matter than I
would refuse soup, or milk, or beer. As to your
cisterns, keep them covered, but not too closely.
Canvas is better than wood. Light is good. As
to the cleansing of cisterns, a very little arith¬
metic will prove that if no dirt reaches the

combines a rather coarse filtration with an
effective aeration and something of a specific
chemical action as well. But its beauty is its
cheapness. Only one penny, and as good as any
other. Fredk. Guthrie.

Flower pot.

- Broken jjrick.

Half brickbat.

Upward air

cistern from the air, the average purity of the
water which is drawn from the cistern is the
same as that of the water which enters the
cistern. If you clean out a properly covered
cistern daily you gain only in the benefit you
derive from the physical exercise. At all longer
intervals such cleansing is folly. This is, of
course, assuming that the water, as given to us
from the companies, is good. So it is—excellent!
London is the only capital in Europe where one
can rely upon getting a glass of fair water from
the tap. Then what is the use of filtering the
cistern water ? Because contagion may exist in
or near the house.

And so, to come to the penny filter. Take a
flower pot and a brick. You can get three
flower pots for a penny—also three bricks for a
penny. However, let us say a flower pot and a
brick for a penny. Break the bottom out of the
flower pot in such a way as to leave edge enough
to hold up half a brickbat. Let one corner of
the half brickbat stand out through the bottom
hole. Break up the rest of the brick into bits
about as big as a quarter of a walnut. Throw
them into the pot. Soak the whole over night
in a pail of water, and let it drain. Let the
water you want to clean drop upon the middle
of the chips of brick. After a few hours the
water which drops from the bottom w'ill be
wholesome and fair water. Most filters pretend
to purify water mechanically. They clarify
rather than purify. Others depend upon some
curious property of the medium, like aniipqd,
charcoal. Such cunning matters have to be
frequently reviewed. The purifier I suggest

Plant vagaries.— The following facts may
perhaps be interesting to some of the botanical
readers of Gardening. I have grown a lot of
seedling Begonias, and have observed the
following facta respecting several of them: —
One plant has regularly, for two years following,
thrown off its male flower buds before opening,
while the female flowers open and flourish—a
sort of Amazon among Begonias. In other

S lants also I have observed that the female
owers take the lead, and become much finer
when the male flowers connected with them
have from any cause been removed. In another
plant all the flowers are stamen bearing. There
is the usual arrangement of three flowers to the
truss, the middle one with four petals, and the
side ones with five, but all have stamens, and
there are no seed vessels. In another plant,
again, the four-petalled flowers have stamens, as
usual, but the five-petalled flowers have both
pistils and stamens—a desperate effort to wear
the breeches on the part of the ladies. Most
remarkable of all, perhaps, is one in which the
female flowers have pistils, not only in the
centre, but also on the extremities of some of
the petals, a fact which goes to confirm the
botanist’s theory that all parts of the flower are
only different forms of the petals, or of the
leaves. The tendencies to opposite develop¬
ments in the above instances are curious. In
one case the usually momecious plant becomes
dioecious ; in another it departs from both these
classes, and takes the more common form of
stamens and pistils in the same flower. I may
mention yet another peculiarity in one of my
Begonias, one of the crassifolia kind, bearing
five round flowers; but in this the female
flower is four-petalled, like the male flower,
regular in form, and nearly as large ; but, by
way of compensation for the loss of a petal, it has
a very small petal at the base of the seed vessel
behind the others, coloured like them, and quite
distinct from the bracts.— Philokalos.

POULTRY.

Cayuga ducks.—It was our pleasure to
see a few weeks since a fine flock of this useful
breed of ducks, which are yearly rising in the
estimation of duck keepers. In appearance they
are very beautiful, being of a rich greenish
black, with plenty of lustre over the entire
plumage, especially in that of the drake. They
are most elegant in shape and carriage, being
possessed of beautiful taperiDg heads and necks
which cause them to look well in the water.
The legs are bright orange colour and the bills
of a yellowish olive. Not only are they good to
look at, but they are hardy, prolific, and of

? uick growth. A full grown duck will weigh
rom 6 lb. to 8 lb., and a drake about 7 lb.
They are most homely in their habits, not par¬
ticular as to accommodation or food, and keep
well within bounds. Altogether we consider
them most suitable for a farmyard or even s
confined run where there is a supply of water,
and quite equal to Aylesbury or Rouen ducks.
The ducklings, which hatch freely under ordi¬
nary circumstances, should arrive as early in
the spring as possible. Eleven eggs is a good
number to place under the duck. When first
hatched the youngsters are buff, with black
markings, but as they feather rapidly the
plumage soon assumes its proper colour. For
the first ten days they should not be allowed
to go near water except sufficient for drinking
purposes, and must be cooped in a dry situation
free from draughts. One of the best foods for
them is well boiled groats and Rice mixed,
which, when thoroughly drained should have as
much Barley meal worked into as will make it
into a dry, crumbly mass. To stimulate appetite
mix chopped Leek tops, Onions, or Lettuces with
it, or even Grass or young Nettles. A little
meat in the shape of boiled liver finely chopped,
three times a w’eek, is most beneficial. Let this
treatment be:.kept up for about three weeks ;
& the end of that period they may be allowed
aotgEjO; an jJ may he less]

I studied. They will eat almost anything, in factj
I W.ilW.sh'alp^^ ■ctin/mhiil, garden ana culinarj

Nov. 1, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

423

refuse. One of the great advantages of Cayuga
ducks is that their flesh is richer and darker
than most other varieties, and partakes very
much of the character of the wild duck, at the
same time being juicy and tender. They are
prolific in eggs, many individual specimens lay¬
ing from fifty to one hundred eggs from January
to July. They are of fair size, rather darker in
colour than most ducks’ eggs, and are generally
laid at night. They delight in plenty of shade
daring hot weather, which it is most important
to provide. —Andalusian.

Cochins. —“J. Warwick.”— A cockerel
and pullet hatched on Good Friday last cannot
be recommended to breed from early this season
where size and stamina are desired. We would
advise you to sell the cockerel and buy a well-
bred bird hatched in 1883. You can keep the
pullet and run her with the older birds. You
can wait your time in disposing of the cockerel
as well as in purchasing another male bird, as it
is not desirable to commence breeding until
January at the earliest—in fact, we consider
February for Asiatic birds as the best month for
hatching. —Andalusian.

Feeding fowls.—“ Sam N.”— We can pick
many holes in your system of feeding. To begin
with, you throw them the same quantity of corn
every evening, no matter whether they have
had a good meal of scraps at noon or an indif¬
ferent one, or sometimes, as you say, nothing at
all. It is no wonder you are pestered with mice
and rats as well as flocks of sparrows, which
vermin would not annoy you unless there existed
a waste of food, which is allowed to remain
about the run. If they get a good feed at noon
the birds do not require so much before roosting
time as they would if they only got a moderate
meal or nothing at all. Our advice is always
give a small feed at mid-day ; if scraps fail give
a little hard grain. We are speaking of fowls
in confinement such as yours. Then at roost
time, or very shortly before, throw them as
much mixed corn as they will eat, but no more.
Again you feed your birds too late in the morn¬
ing. They should be fed as soon after day¬
break as possible, as, where they have no chance
of picking up anything, it is most injurious to
allow them to remain without food for several
hours after coming off roost.— Andalusian.

Best food for hens. —Considerable differ¬
ence should be made in the feed of poultry
according to their breed. The Brahmas,
Cochins, and their crosses, says a contemporary,
are quiet, lazy sorts, and consequently fatten
more easily than such as are fond of roving
about, such as Leghorns, Hamburghs, Game,
Ac. Little Indian meal should be given to the
former, except in the coldest weather. In spring
and autumn we give them all they are inclined
to eat during the day, of a pudding made of
one-third Indian meal and two-thirds wheat
bran, with a sprinkling of whole oats late in the
afternoon on the ground, just before £oing to
roost. In summer we make the padding only
one-fourth Indian meal and three-fourths wheat
bran. In this about half a gill of pure strong
brine is mixed to each gallon. A little brine is
very healthy in the food of poultry, but it must
not be taken from the pickle tub. A table-
spoonful of sulphur is excellent to mix once a
week in the pudding, as this keeps lice out of
the hens, and in addition is good for them. So
is the same quantity of wood ashes, or a gill of
fine charcoal dust. The birds ought to have a
grass plot to run on. If this cannot be had,
they should have some boiled vegetables or raw
cabbage leaves. In summer grass can be cut
and put in their yard. Lettuce and spinach are
excellent when no other green feed is to be had.
For the more active breeds of fowls we give a
greater proportion of Indian meal in their
pudding. If this can be mixed with skim-milk
it will he all the better for the production o
^gs. Whole wheat is also a fine egg producer.

Andalusians. —I have kept this breed for
Btne considerable time, and value it highly for
fee high average laying results I have received,
u well as for tne beauty and great hardiness of
fce mature birds. But then comes the draw-
Wck. I have never been able to bring to
siturity one-half of the chickens hatched,
for the first week the brood looks exceedingly
promising, by the end of the second it is
growing small by degrees, y®t"psix weeks o|d,
perhaps, half the original humterytii’ (wjaljjk,*
the earth, but even that cm»Sirehecl njafaoeV

rarely reaches maturity in its entirety. I have
no such mortality among my other breeds—and I
I keep a goodly number—so I am thinking of
giving it up, although, on account of the great
laying capability of the strain I possess, very
reluctantly. Your correspondent who, it may
be through his admiration of this breed, adopts
its name for a nom dt plume used to write
highly of it. Perhaps he (or she) would kindly
say if his experience with the chicks coincides
with mine, and if he finds that the breed is
more subject to liver disease (scrofula or
tuberculosis) than the generality of pure bred
fowls. I would be glad to know the experience
of any one who has bred this variety.— True
Blue.

Ring doves.—I have kept and bred doves for some
years and make no difference in feeding at breeding or any
other time. I give them clean water everv other day,
crushed Indian Corn, Rice, Wheat, soaked bread, and a
Lettuce now and then ; keeping the house very clean, with
plenty of broken moitar and sand for the birds to pick at.
—J. C. Ksrsiiaw, Sunbwry , Cheshire

Size of poultry run —What should be the size of
poultry run proper for eight hens, so as to keep them quite
healthy ? Would it be inadmissible that the poultry house
and covered run should be parallel with and attached to
the north side of a wall?—R. W. C

Guinea fowls.—I would be obliged if anyone would
let me know where I could buy guinea fowl, and what the
price would be.—N. A. P.

Perches for fowls.—I have a costly breed of fowls—
the golden pencilled Hamburgh—and being about to build
a new house for them to roost in at night I r-hall be
thankful if some reader will kindly inform me as to the sire
the perches should be, and whether square or round
sticks on flat boards are most suitable for the health of the
birds?— Jamrs Wilsoh.

Fowl house.—' Will some correspondent "describe the
best form of fowl house and run for, say, a dozen fowls of a
heavy breed such as Brahmas?—Rusncus.

BIRDS.

Insects in cockatoos. — “ Subscriber ”
can soon rid her bird of insects by the following
method:—Dissolve lump alum in boiling water
in the proportion of \ oz. to a pint of water;
when nearly cold syringe your bird with the
solution, taking care that it does not enter his
eyes or beak ; though not poisonous it is not
pleasant to the taste. Now cover three sides of
cage with flannel to keep off draught, place the
cage upon the table about 2 yards from the fire,
that the bird may dry quickly and not take cold.
Your new cage, if purchased of a dealer in birds,
probably contained insects when you bought it.
If possible remove the bird and well wash the
new cage with a strong solution of alum, examine,
and well saturate the top of cage inside where
the ring is inserted, for insects will take up
their abode even in a wire cage. A good plan
is to oil the perches. You are quite right in
not giving your bird meat, it brings on diarrhoea
and a kind of sickness which makes it peck
itself and tear out its feathers. To keep vermin
down it is a very good and effective plan to
place the cage in a dark room at night and cover
with a white cloth. In an hour or so remove
the cloth aDd examine ; some insects are red,
others like white pepper. Place another cloth
over cage, and throw first one into boiling
water; continue this for two or three nights and
you will soon rid your bird of insects. I have
tried the above plan, and once bought a new
aviary into which 1 put my birds without first
disinfecting, with the result that they became
infested with insects, and so ill that one died.

I tried the cloth and a dark room, and caught
and massacred 250 the first night. Examine
the cloth carefully ; the insects are so minute as
to be nearly invisible to the naked eye.—L. H.,
Lady Amateur Bird Breeder.

- In answer to “ Subscriber,” I would

advise the cockatoo to be well powdered under
the wings, back of neck, and, in fact, all over
with Dalmatian insect powder twice a week.

I have used it on small birds and pigeons with
perfect success. Have the cage well scoured
with boiling water and soap, and the perch, if
possible, put into w’ater and boiled. This will
effectually kill the insects. Powder the cap
well. The bird in a fortnight will be well free
from insects. —C. D. Thurslky, Sydney Lodge,
Leamington.

- Let “Subscriber” give the cockatoo

about three teaspoonfuls of quassia in a pint
of water for his bath every morning, and shake
Keating’s insect powder (which is quite harm¬
less) all over and through his feathers; also wash
the cage for two or three weeks in succession

with the quassia plain, as the insects attach
themselves to the wires where they meet, and are
very hard to get rid of. The quassia and insect
powder can be bought of all chemists.

Goldfinch moulting.—My goldfinch, rather an aged
bird, but always in good nealth, began to moult as usual
at the end of August, lie lost nearly all his feathers and is
now nearly naked. He shows no disposition to clothe him¬
self for the winter. What can I do with him ?—Hitchih.

Grey parrot.—What can I do with a favourite grey
parrot, which I have had two years? It was three years
old when I had it, but the last few months it has had con¬
stipation, and I have given it a few drops of castor oil, and
then it turned to diarrhoea; but the last few' weeks It seems
much worse, and always wants to be drinking, and what it
eats it vomits. It has maize, hemp seed, canary seed,
monkey nuts, &c.—J. B.

HOUSEHOLD.

Boly-poly pudding.— One pound of flour,
6 ounces of suet, a little salt, a dessert-spoon¬
ful of baking powder, jam of any kind. Put
the flour before the fire, mix with it the salt and
baking powder, and turn it over and over before
the fire until warm. Chop the suet finely,
separating from it all skin and gristle, and mix
it with the flour, &c. Now mix into a smooth
paste with sufficient milk or water, roll out
into a large cake about one-eighth of an inch
thick, spread jam evenly over the surface, leav¬
ing a slight margin uncovered, where the paste
will join at the ends when rolled np. Roll it
up, and put it into a thickly floured cloth ;
fasten up the ends securely and sew np the
side, put it into boiling water and boil for two
or three hours. Add boiling water always as
the water in the saucepan boils away. On re¬
moving the puddiDg from the saucepan, dip it
in cold water for a second or two, which makes
the cloth come away easily. Marmalade or
mince meat may be substituted for jam, and
makes an equally excellent pudding.—W. B.

Whole meal bread.—We bake whole meal
bread as we do white bread, but allow more
yeast; we use one pennyworth of German yeast
to the quarter of a stone of whole meal. Put,
say, a quarter of a stone of meal into a basin,
and make a hole in the middle of the meal.
Mix a pennyworth of German yeast and a tca-
spooiiful of sugar in a gill of lukewarm water
till quite smooth, pour it into the hole in the
meal, and stir in meal from the sides until it is
a thick batter ; then leave it to rise for twenty
minutes. Then sprinkle the baking board with
meal, and when the yeast has risen, mix in
meal from the sides until it is stiff paste. Put
it on the baking board, put salt to taste into
the hole, pour lukewarm water over it, and
mix as before until all the meal is used up ; now
knead well for twenty minutes, and put it into
the basin again to rise. When risen, make into
loaves, and place them on the fender to rise
before a clear fire, turning frequently. Bake
in a brisk oven.—W. B.

Bread-and-butter pudding.— Slices of
buttered bread, currants, milk, one egg, sugar.
Cut the buttered bread into pieces about an
inch square, place a layer of these pieces at the
bottom of a pie dish, sprinkle currants over
them—jam makes an excellent substitute for
currants, but if jam be used it should be
spread on the slices of buttered bread before
they are cut up—add layers of bread and cur¬
rants alternately until the dish is nearly full,
letting bread be the topmost layer. Now beat
up an egg, with sufficient sugar to sweeten
properly, add to this a pint of milk, beat well
until thoroughly mixed, pour it over the bread,
and add milk sufficient to cover the bread.
Stand it in the oven, and bake until the milk
is all absorbed. Crusts, scraps of bread, biscuit,
&c., may be used in making this pudding.

Rabbit pie —One rabbit, one small onion,
mace, salt, pepper, pint of water, half-a-pint of
gravy or stock, puff paste. Cut the rabbit,
which should bo young, into pieces, place a
saucepan on the fire with the water, and when
it boils put in the pieces of rabbit, the onion cut
in halves , and pepper and salt to taste. Let
these simmer for half an hour. Then prepare
the pie dish, and pour the contents of the saucepan
into it, but first remove the pieces of onion.
Then flavour with ir tee, pepper, and salt (a very
little of the two latter), cover with crust, and
bake for half an hour. Should the crust get too_
brown, place a piece of paper over it to prevent
its burning. Before it is quite done, pour in

424

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 1, 1884.

the gravy at the hole in the crust, and put it
back into the oven. A few slices of ham may be
added if liked. This makes an excellent dish
for a meat tea or supper, and may be eaten hot
or cold.—W. B.

Flavourings for appl© pi0S.—Olir staple Our business as Rosarians is large and increasing-

winter fruit, the apple, takes flavourings better SC(t * un we , h \T ”™ivcd hundreds of orders-

., . * “ * . ,- ,, r n “• ■ We attribute our success to the following reasons: The good

than almost any other. All the following lm- quality of the plants; the reasonable prices; our carefully
prove the flavour of an apple pie :—A spoonful selected collection , none but the best being kept; our perfect
or two of black currant or blackberry jam ; half Packing, and the fact that we send all Roses carnage free.

• i e _i • j ,_■ . i . „ We respectfully solicit orders in good time., and assure both

f. nn( \ candied lemon peel cut into shreds , a i arqt aiu i sma u buyers that their orders shall receive most
little lemon juice, or a little whole ginger, or careful attention.

powdered cinnamon ; a few cloves ; or a few ———-—-—-:——— - . ,, ■

.iried fig. out in thin slices. There are, of course, S1 * c hiteM^ sS rlrewfc^,

many more than these which any cook may try Fine plants, quite hardy. Succeed any whore. Few—
for herself, and by a judicious flavouring render very few gardens contain these charming varieties,
a common apple pie a dish fit for an epicure.— York and Lancaster Rose.—This historic Rose is
\y g very showy and quite hardy, each Is. The rare old

■ * Cabbage Rose, eacn Is. ; very fragrant. The new Moss

Tomatoes. — Tomatofarces. —Cut the toma- Little Gem, each Is.; produces an abundance of

toes in two, and farce them with the following : cfaar ™ lr ^ 1 J* 0 flo ^ ers -

u,, f K ® Six old fashioned climbing Roses, in 6 varieties,

I our ounces breadcrumbs, two ounces butter, 4g ^ Rambling, rapid growing, profuse flowering,

one egg, chopped parsley, pepper and salt to these are admirably adapted for covering a great space

taste ; bake in a hot oven with the farce upwards. quickly. The rare myrrh-scented climbing Rosa, at Is.

SanU tomatoes .—Cut in halves, place skin side Mch - For pm>r Roaea ' *«•*«•• ses our list - l*° 3t ,ree -

downwards on a baking plate, brush over with Half-guinea collection. —-All the Onost kinds.
, ,. , * , , , . , suitable for planting in any situation. Consists of 0

warm butter, pepper and salt, and bake in a hot finest Hybrief Perpetuate, 3 Mosses, 3 Climbers, 1 Sweet

oven for ten minutes. Stciced tomatoes. — Put Brier, 2 Chinas—15 line plants in all. Compare with

the tomatoes in a close-fitting stewpan with a other so-called cheap collections. Slight alterations if

very fine sliced onion, a pat of butter, pepper and -, de8ir ^?' . . . . .

L .,i* n oinon of o- m ;!ir ’iF uo„ a „ New Rosea— Tho very cream of recent introductions,

talt, and a glass of water or milk, or, if handy, Mervllle dc Lvon, 2s. ; Duke of Albany, 2s. 6d. ; Earl
a little meat stock or gravy. Serve with sippets Pembroke, 2s. 0d.; Mary Pochin, 2s.; Mrs. Jowitt, Is. Od.

of toast or fried bread. The above are tried 8oe descriptions in our list, which is a surprise to all.

recipes, and are quite good enough for a dinner Single Japanese Roses (Rugosa).—These make the
without meat, just served with potatoes and handsomest bushes Mall. Most lovely flowers, as large

, . , ,, > J “7 77 ’ u-iiw as single Dahlias. The three varieties-delicate pink,

plain butter sauce. — W. O. L. rich crimson, and pure white—for 4s. Selling rapidly.

Crab Apple jelly. —Can anyone give me a good Rod Glolro de Dijon.— Has proved a strong growing
recipe for the above, and Bay what colour it should be ?— hardy kind. Fine plants, each Is. Cd. The ordinary
Lily. Gloirede Dijon, Is. each.

•SV°* a ° f

reupe for Raisin wine .-H. S. lg ^ Th(J we new Ro86j rcd h de , a Ma i mai80n> ^ch

—- ~ ~~ -- 2s. Large plants of Dovonionsis, from open ground,

ANEMONE FULGENS, the Scarlet Wind Two Moreohal Kiel, for pottln? (or ». 9d

-tt- Flower, la. S<L doz., free.—PETTENER A STAGG, F ® ur 8llv f r medals were awarded by the National

Hi lime.___

TjAFFODlLS, best money can buy, 5s. 100,
-L' freo. The beautiful Lent Lily, Is. per doz., free.—
rETTENEB A STAGG, Hnlrno. ___

TTOOP PETTICOAT NARCISSUS, old-

TTOOP PETTICOAT NARCISSUS, old-

* f yhioned but a little gem for pot culture, 3s. doz., Six exhibition Roses — II. P.’s, In six superb kinds,

free—PETTENE R A STAGG, Hu lmo. _ for 4 S . gd., 12 for 9s All have won distinction at this

T’HK POET’S LILY, modest and fair, true, year’s great shows. List to select from free on applies^

9d. doz., free. The fragrant double white gardenia-like tion. Collection of 25, in 25 varieties, for 17s. 0d. This

Narcissus poeticus plenus, Is. 94. doz., true, cariiagc oollection is unique, comprehensive, and cheap.
—PETTENER k STAGG, Hulme. Six Tea Roses for open ground (in favourable locali-

tics), for 7s. 6 d. The best named kinds only. Six Teas
for potting, in six kinds, 7s. 0d., including all tho very
best. Two Gloire de Dijon for potting for 2s. 9d.

China Roses.— Fairy or Monthly Roses. Bloom most
profusely. Three varieties for 2s. 3d., including the
deep rich crimson. These may bo potted for early
forcing. Sweet Briers, 9d. each.

Rose Socictv, at this year’s great national shows, to the
four following Roses, exhibited by different gentlemen,
as bein" the best Roses in the show—Dupuy J amain,
General Jacqueminot Horace Veraet, Madame M. Finger.
These are indispensable Roses. Tho four varieties for
3s. 9d. Capital plants. A. K. Williams, Is. each.

■7 9<1. doz., free. Tho fragrant double white gardenia-like
Lily, Narcissus poeticus plenus, Is. 94. doz., true, carnage
paid -PETTENER A STAGG, Hulme.

OBEIff GHEMEllElCT,

Floral Nurseries, Thorpe, Norwich.

CARNATIONS, PINKS, PICOTBES.-The

following are tho very best in cultivation Gloiro
de Nancy, finest white Clove, Is. each ; old crimson
Clove, 0d. each ; old purple Clove, 6 d. each ; Mrs.
Sinkins, now white Pink, very fine, 6 d. each ; Fiin-
briata major, very good, 6 d. each ; Ware new Clove
Pink. 0 d. each; Rcdhraes, tho best and hardiest
Picotoc, 6 d. each. The above collection for 4s.
SPRING FLOWERS. —Plant at once where to
b oom; all at Is. per dozen, or 100 selected, in nice
variety, for 6 s. Pansies, Wallflowers (yellow and
red), Sweet Williams (double and singlo), Silene
com pacta, single Sweet Rockets, Canterbury Bells,
Hollyhocks, Arabia, Myosotis dissitiflora, alpine
Wallflowers, Polyanthus, &c., Ac., Ac.

PRIMULA, CINERARIAS, and CALCEO
LARIAS.— Best strains and good plants at ‘ 2 s. per
dozen.

HERBACEOUS & GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

—See Illustrated Catalogue
STRAWBERRY PLANTS, as previously ad¬
vertised, can still be bad.

JOBW "aRBElff,

Floral Nurseries, Thorpe, Norwich.

Mairis & Co.’s

CHEAP PLANTS.

DOSES ON OWN ROOTS. — Wonderfully

Lu ohean : from 10 inches to 15 inches high : strong plants.

The above arc all well rooted healthy plants, and are
delivered, package and carriage free, to any part of the
Kingdom. Descriptive List of all the prize kinds froc.

'Sa'ue 1 M'AN:G'HEl:S’TER'

Niel, Niphetos (pure white), and re
Rose), tne five ior 2s. 6 d. f or per
k CO.. Weston-in-Gordano, Brute

1 fa., free.—M A HUB

k CO.. Weston-in-Gordano, Bristol. _

PERNS AND BEGONIAS.—Four Maiden-

L hair Ferns, two varieties; two lovely Begonias, fuchsi-
oldea and Snowflake, and six Begonias, with beautifully
marked leaves, 2s. 6d., free.-MAI TUB k CO.. We«ton-in-

Gkird an o, Bris tol.__

POUR BEST MAIDEN-HAIR FERNS.—

L Farleyense, concinnum latum, tenerum, and ciliatum.

2 variegated Ferns, 2 Lycopodiums, 2 Tradcscanttas, also
beautifully variegated; the 10 plants 2s. 6d., free, oue-third
usual price.—MAIRIS k CO., Weston-ln-Gordano, Bristol.

*piVE named cool Greenhouse Ferns, selected
L as specially ornamental for winter decoration, and 2
winter-flowering Tropwoluins. the 7 plants, 2s. 6d, free.—
MAI RIS k CO^ Weston -in-Gordano, Bristol. _

I5ED GLOIRE DE DIJON, and 5 beautiful

J-W perpetual Roses, all on own roota, tho 6»»troug trees, 3s..
free.—MAIRIS & CO., Weston-in-Gordano. Bristol. _

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

■jWTY FINE COLLECTION of these is now in

-LY-L bloom. Inspection invited. Fine cut blooms sent free
by parcels post, at la. 3d., 2s . 3s., 4s„ and 6s. per dozen ; the
latter very large, and all named. Send for list of cuttings
and plants. BULB LISTS FREE.

B. C. RAVENSCROFT,

GRANVILLE NURSERY, LEWISHAM, KENT.

1? DEL W EISS, GN APH ALIUM LEONTO-

-kJ PODIUM (Bridal Everlasting Flower).—Rarest of
Alpines, curious white star-shaped flowers, lilooms of the
above (dried), pretty for church, wreaths, crosses, borne, or
Christmas decoration. Will last for yeara. Price, 50blooms,
2s. 6d.; 100, 4s. 6d .; 500, 20s : 1.0 0, 35s. Properly packed,

post free -SAMUEL DAXO N, Croft, Warrington. _

■HUTCH BULBS.—Cheap garden collection.—
-U 18 Hyacinths, 30 Tulips. 20 double Daffodils. 100 Crocua,
5s. 6d., carriage paid.—IIENRY & CO., near Amershaui,
Bucks._

T APAGERIA ALBA, 7s. 6d. each ; L. rosea,

-U Is. 6cl. each ; Stcphanotls, Is. 9d.; Gardenia Intermolia,
Is. 3d.; Jasminutu grandiflorum, Is.; all fine plants, from
48'8. clean and hoaltliy. Maranta Mockoyana and Cypripedium
insigne, Is. each. Winter blooming Begonias, four Is. 3d. All
carriage paid.—HENRY & CO., near Amersham, Bucks.

HHEAP GREENHOUSE PLANTS, for

VJ Winter Blooming.—Geraniums, 12 splendid varieties,
la. 9d.; Libonia floribunda, grand in winter, largeplants. 3
for Is. All splendid plants, post free.—W. & F. WHEEL¬
WRIGHT, Florists, Oldswinford, Stourbridge._

F Y-LEAVED GERANIUMS. —6 distinct

named varieties, double and single. Is. 9d. ; scentod-
leaved Geraniums. 4 for Is.; Marguerites, pure white (tmo),
6 for 1 r ; Cnpheas, nice plants. Is. 3d. per doz., free.—W. k F.
WHEELWRIGHT. Florists. Olds w inford, SUmrbridge.

PANSIES ! PANSIES ! fPANSIES!!! -Piant

L now for grand bloom next seas m. 12 strong plants of
fanev Pansies, correctly named. 2 b. ; cuttings named. Is. doz.,
post free.—W. & F. WHEELWRIGHT, Florists, Oldswinford,
Stourbridge. _

ASPARAGUS (clearance, land sold).—Cono-

ver ’ B Colossal. 1 year. 2s.,2 years, 3s . 3 years. 4s., forcing,
7s. hundred.-FREEMAN k FREEMAN, Norwich j
p LIM BERS. —Honeysuckle, Virginian Creeper,

kJ Ampelopsis Veitchi, Roses. Ivies, Jasmino, Cotoneastcrs,
Hop Plants, Clematis, 6s. doz., assorted.—FREEMAN,

Norw ich. _

STRAWBERRY PLANTS (clearance, land

Q sold).—Earliest and finest exhibition varieties. Sir Harry,
Amateur, Alpha, Lucas, Counter, Duke Edinburgh, Due
Malakoff, Visoomtees, 3s. hundred.—FREEMAN, Seedsmen,
Nnrwioh. ____

ounipr UADnV Cl nUICDC P HUBARB (large clearance, land sold).—

UnUlUC nMnUY rLUstuflO* ^ Luruxus, Prince Albert, Ruby. Defiauce, Johnston’s, St

Carnations, 12 splendid named sorts, to include
Souvenir Malmaison, immense white, Purple Prince,
The Bride, &c., 5s., 12 mixed splendid unnamed sorts
(not seedlings), 3s. 6 d., very cheap.

Blue Passion-flower, strong, 2 for Is. 3d.

Double white Rockets, scarce, 3*. per doz.
Rosemary, old-fashioned, fragrant, 2s. doz.

White Jessamine, very sweet, 3 for Is. 3d.

Violet, White Czar, hardy and free, 3s. doz.
Virginian Creepers, 8 for Is 3d.

inn FINE BULBS, including fi named Golden variegated Honeyaucklc, tor Is. 3d.

Hyacinths. Crocus, Tulips, Narcissus, k c., suital l e Cheap collection of 50 plants for 5s., contains 2 blue
for pots. beds, or glassc*s ; carriage free 3s. Cd. — C. B. 8 HIL- Passlon-Howers. 2 white double Rockets, 2 Virginian
LING. Florist, &c. t Fleet. Hants. Creepers, 2 white Jessamine, 6 Rosemary, 0 double

1 0 VAR IO US FLO WE KING SHRUBS, Strong white Pinks, 3 Geums, and 24 choice Pansies. Half

plants (Lilacs, Philadelphus. Spinwas. Altha-as. Ac.). 0 a v< *>

carriage free. 4 b O. R. 8 HILLING. Nurseries, Fleet. Hants. Above are all strong healthy young plants, and aro very

OHRUBS, * 0 ., 8 plen3Id7oot8.-Laurel8, li'to „ . „ , ch , cl P- T«"> 3 -“f h -

tJ Itct, 3 s. <lo»en; Sa 100 . Hollies for hedge* «a 100 : Cut flowor».-Libcr f l ojwortoient of Roses, Chrvsan-
Spruce Fir, 3 feet, 5s dozen ; Purple Beech. Sfeet, 9d each ; themums, Bouvardios. Margxierites, Maiden hair Fern,
Uhododendror# in bud Is. each - Portugal Laurels, 2 feef', is. Cd., 2s. 0d , 5i., and upwards Choice

5s. 6 d. dozen; packagss free.— O. R. SHILLING, NurierieF, Buttonhole Bouquets, 3 for Is. 2 d. Will arrive safe
Fleet, Ha nts. and fresh.

Q TR AW BERRY RUN N KRS. —50,000 Pax- CRANE * CLARKE.

O tons for sale, 18s. per 1.000. 10s. per 500. H. CHAP- HILLSIDE NURSERY, HADDENHAM, CAMBS.

bJ 2 feet, 3s. dozen; 21s. 100. Hollies for hedges. 100; UUt nowers.-i,iDcrai iwsortaicnt or noses, i.nrysan-
Spruce Fir, 3 feet, 5s dozen ; Purple Beech. Sfeet, 9d each ; themums, Bouvardios. Marguerites, Maiden hair Fern,

Uhododendror# in bud Is. eacli- Portugal Laurels, 2 feef', &C-, 1». 2s. 0d , 5i., and upwards Choice

5s. 6d. dozen; packages free.— C. R. SHILLING, Nurseries, Buttonhole Bouquets, 3 for Is. 2d. Will arrive safe

Fleet, Ha nts. and fresh.

OTRAWBERRY RUNNERS.-50,000 Pax- CRANE * CLARKE.

O tons for sale, 18s. per 1,000. 10s. per 500. H. CHAP- HILLSIDE NURSERY, HADDENHAM, CAMBS.

MAN. Market Grower. Linkficld Liine. Isleworth W ----------—

P OSES 1 ROSKij 1 KOSKS 1 — Beat Domed F 0 ?^ L £,’ -0^T-goSPECrNlKN I> L AN-p^._

Xu ..riptioB riw^rf m v> mr. if , 10 Reaforthia elcgann, 9 feet high; 12 Latanrn borbomca

purcha-cr-s sclocHon. S feplemlidly roo?^d eltC" on°owii ^Voof 'hk-h"- aSv t^M^W = %§E$Ba$

! rdor ° r pJc“aTJ frw^VV^LtLWF TtS or* I! 11 SS* TH °M AS, between 12 and 2 o^dijk, Covent Garden Theatres
NotU freer LUWL. R«j Lr^w, Bees ton, g^fahfar to Mr. J. FORSYTH JOHNSON, 90, New Bond

Martin's. 8too 1 *, 6s. per doz , crowns, 3s —FREEMAN, Seed-
gro wera, Norwich.

HIANTRED CURRANTS,prodigious be&rera,

VT K ood bushes, 2a. doz. ; also Block Naple sand White
Dutch, 6s. doz., carriage paid in England.—FREEMAN k
F REEMAN, N or wich. _ ■ ^ x

rpo BE SOLD, a large quantity of very choice

X surplus hothouse plants. Palms, Ferns. Ac., the accumu¬
lation of years at the greenhouses, Alexandra Pork, N.

Cards to view to be obtained from C. J. HAYTER, 1,
Drapers' Gardens. Throgmorton Avenue, E.O.

ALLIUM NEAPOLITANUM, a very beanti-

-tx. f u | variety. In cold frames it produces fine large white
flowers early in February. Is. 6d. per dozen.

T ILIUM HARRISI (new).—Pure white. The

-L* grandest of all Lilies. Fine large bulbs, 2s. each.

RASPBERRIES.—A fine large red variety.
Xh Fruiting canes, 7>. per 100 ; extra fine, lCs. per 100.
T1AISIES, in three varieties, including 4 of the
XJ large, wonderful Daisy, Is. 6d. per dozen; 3 dozen, 2s. (xl.

H ONESTY VIOLET.—Purple flowers, hardy,
nice plants, Is. 6d. per dozen ; 3 dozen, 2s. 6d.
T7IOLETS.—The large Russian Violet, single,
V fine large roots, full of flower buds, Is. each; 3 for 2 r. 6d.
ROCKETS. — Beautiful herbaceous plants,

Xu early flowering and swoefc. Fine large plants, 2b. per doz

HHRISTMAS ROSES (Helleborus niger).—

L/ Beautiful hardy white flowers. Singlo'roots, 6<L each
six for 2s. 6d ; twelve. 4a. ChriBtmas Roses will not be rea* j
beforv about true flth of Novembei. Cartlagc paid ; cash witr
ord^-—F. AT TRILL, Mount Ploasant Gartlen, Newport

ord#> —F. AT TRILL, Mount Ploaaant Gartlen, Naurpon

’OftSWlA-CHAMPAlGN---,

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

NOVEMBER 8, 1884.

No. 296.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

THE COMMON HOP AS A CLIMBER.
The common Hop is one of the best of garden
climbers. It can be used in a variety of ways,
and when its elegant shoots are studded with
green and brown Hops, and allowed to grow
naturally, they have a fine effect. Mixed with
Clematis Jackmani, it makes a fine show
trained on pillars or on wire arches over gate¬
ways or garden walks. It should be planted in
good rich soil, and during dry weather a soak¬
ing with liquid manure will greatly assist
growth. The Hop, too, is a useful plant for
covering half-dead shrubs, overwhich, if allowed
to ramble at will, it has a fine appearance, along
with tall growing Nasturtiums, or
any other bright-flowered plant.

Hop sets may be bought in the mar¬
ket at a cheap rate in early spring.

in early summer, but for months, by a judicious
use of the scissors, we may prolong their bloom
for cutting purposes, while the length of time
these fragile-looking flowers last in water is
surprising. The white variety is equally charm¬
ing. Though true perennials, this species is apt
to bloom itself to death. Seed should therefore
be saved from the best flowers only, and sown
as soon as ripe to ensure good strong plants for
filling up gaps. A hot summer like the last
seems to be particularly trying to these Iceland
Poppies. Autumn sowings should also be made
of the fine biennial Poppy, P. umbrosum, of
which a few plants should find a place in every
garden for their magnificent crimson and black
colour, which cannot be rivalled. Those who
fancy that brilliant colour cannot be obtained

;*

t

t

t

M*
%

NOTES FROM A RECTORY
GARDEN.-L
Summer,

As the year enters its last quarter
it is well to look back over our
garden notes, and to sum up the
experience of the summer. To learn
through the pages of Gardening
Illustrated how plants behave
in other people’s gardens is gene¬
rally both interesting and instruc¬
tive to its readers. To make such
notes useful, however, it is best,
according to Mr. Wood’s valuable
suggestion, to begin by saying
that the Dorsetshire garden to
which the present remarks refer is
situated in the midst of high
chalk downs, and is fully ex¬
posed, save for the screens of
Laurel hedges and palisades of
rough Larch poles, and even of
Wattle, which have been planned
to break the force of the strong
6outh-westerly and other gales.

Add to this a hungry soil which
quickly drains off all the richness
of the liberal mulchings and
manure supplied to it into the
porous substratum of chalk, and
a great lack of water, and it will
easily be supposed that there are
many positions more favourable
for the establishment of hardy
plants. But timo and patience
overcome most difficulties, and the
hardiness of many plants here
which are elsewhere considered
tender goes far to compensate for
their less luxuriant growth.

Amongst plants which bloom in
early summer the various

Globe Flowers (Trollius)

Deserve especial notice. It has been stated
that the beautiful orange-coloured T. asiaticus
does not flower so freely as other species. In
this garden a strong plant known as T. japonicus
—probably a variety of T. asiaticus—was
remarkably full of flower and ripened plenty of
seed. T. napellifolius is also a grand plant, and
there can be no more fitting subjects for the
borders of small gardens in the early summer
than these two and our native species, T. euro-
pteus, giving a lovely gradation of colour from
palo lemon through strong yellow to orange.
A glass arranged with the mingled flowers of the
three, cut freely and set up with their own
Wes, looked so well as to suggest that a group
of these fine Buttercups so planted together
iastead of being dotted about singly would be a
success. Not far off, no less in shades of colour
than in relationship, come the

Alpine Poppies (Papaver nudicaule),
Which are surely amongsJrllTB most valuable
all recent a dditions to ourfcord^jrsj N dOiU^Jlo
get from them masses oftneoright^g^colour

Common Hop w? a climber.

with hardy plants should have seen a group of
deep blue and white

Columbines (Aquilegia glandulosa),
Near to which a colony of these Poppies had
sown themselves. We cannot, of course, expect
that such effects will last for a Bummer. I, for
one, do not wish that they should ; but when
one combination of the kind passes by another is
sure, in a well-planned garden, to be ready to
take its place. Columbines of the finer sorts
delight in a cool alpine situation, and are quite
at home here. The white, or nearly white, form
of the long-spurred Rocky Mountain Columbine
(A. ccerulea), from Munstead, is a very beauti¬
ful variety, which has borne the heat and
drought of the summer better than most of the
species. But it is to be feared that in the multi¬
tude of hybrids which are now being raised it
will become more and more difficult to keep the
original distinct species. Allied to Columbines
are the

Meadow Rues (Thauctrum),

Which are favourites here as being good
stand-by border plants, able to take care of

themselves year after year and wanting little
attention ; and they are distinct in character in
spite of the happy knack they have of mixing
themselves up with other plants. Thus wo
have T. aquilegifolium, with foliage imitating
the Columbines; T. adiantifolium, which does
its best to pass for a hardy Maiden-hair Fern;
while the Anemone-flowered Meadow Rue
(T. anemonoides), a species not very commonly
met with, and which bloomed finely here this
summer, has so much in common with theMeadow
Rue Anemone (Anemone thalictroides), that the
one is often mistaken for the other. They are,
however, two very distinct plants, the Anemone
being a delicate little species, growing only
6 inches high, with Rue-like foliage, while the
Meadow Rue in question reaches a height of
18 inches or more, and may be
known from the rest of its kind
by its abundant cream-coloured
petaloid flowers, which differ from
the feathery tassels of most of
the others. This pretty Thalic-
trum was found most useful for
cutting. Why is it that the

Wreatii Nasturtium (Troileo-

LUM POLYPHYLLUM),

Which is one of the hardiest and
most characteristic of plants,
should be so seldom grown out-of-
doors, though it is not unseldom
met with in greenhouses, dragging
out a miserable existence ? Those
who have hitherto been afraid to
plant it out should bury the roots
0 inches deep at the top of a bank,
if possible, and leave it henceforth
to take care of itself. Each year
purple shoots will come up more
strongly and unfold into long stout
wreaths, thickly beset with grey-

§ reen leaves and bright yellow
owers, and these will creep in and
out amongst their neighbours,
making the prettiest flowers
pictures for themselves without
the slightest trouble to anyone.
Then when their day is over, they
will quietly hide away until the
warm spring sun wakes them to
life again. For six years the
Flame Nasturtium (T. speciosum)
baffled every attempt to make it
take kindly to this rectory garden,
but at length the right position was
found, against a fence facing north,
and screened from hot sunshine
during the greater part of the
day. Here it flourishes, growing
every season more and more luxu¬
riant, until it has become one of
the glories of the garden. This
year it is setting its fruit. Has
anyone acquainted with the plant
noticed tho thickening of the persistent calvx
into a deep crimson, wax-like receptacle for the
blue berries ? To come to shrubs, one of the
moat charming of dwarf

Rock Roses

Is Cistns crispus, which I venture to hope may
be written down as quite hardy here. On the
20th of June, after a long absence from home,
a plant of it was found to have grown into a
sturdy bush, covered with deep rose-coloured
flowers, which were renewed every morning for
weeks. From that time to the present it has
seldom been without flowers. It is well to
keep cuttings of this and other Rock Roses
under shelter during winter in case of failure,
for they are easily struck from young wood
under a bell-glass. Of all those I have tried,
C. florentinus, a white-flowered species, is tho
easiest to strike, but all take root fairly well.
The best kinds of Rock Roses and Sun Roses
are beginning to reappear in our gardens, and
the pant summer has suited them well. The thel-
texed sunny side of a Larch pole fence we re¬
serve for subjects of doiibtfiil hardiness.' Here

426

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 8, 1884

FA HI AN A IMBRICATA,

A small, heath-like shrub, with tubular white
flowers, was a mass of bloom at the beginning of
.luly, and has made vigorous growth since.
Against a wall or fence thU fine plant, which
is allied to Habrothamnus and Cestrum of our
greenhouses, will be found to stand ordinary
winters in most gardens, and, as it grows freely
from cuttings in the spring, it need never be
lost.

Another small shrub, which is interesting
from being one of the few New Zealand shrubs
that are truly hardy, is

Cassini a fulvida,

Originally known as Diplopappus chrysophylla,
or rather, according to first intention, “ chryso-
chlada,” which means literally “golden-coated,”
and it Beems a pity that a name so significant
should not have been retained. Its large heads of
small whitish flowers are not particularly orna¬
mental, but its leaves, stems, and young buds
are so thickly “golden-coated ” that few can
pass it by unnoticed; and it is, moreover,
valuable for cutting, since it lasts an indefinite
length of time in water. Slips of the young
wood, taken off with a “heel,” strike readily
under a hand-glass, and do not require artificial
heat. After the last mild winter it was a dis¬
appointment that the distinct and pretty

Calceolaria violacea,

A native of Chili, did not flower so well as in
1SS2, but it must be borne in mind that it
blooms on the wood of the last summer’s
growth. It happened here that the cold winds
of March, 18S3, cut the sturdy little bush to
pieces, which had passed safely through the
frosts of the preceding winter, so that there was
not sufficient time last year for it to recover
strength and to ripen the growth of the young
shoots which had to spring from the root. The
wood of the present season being well har¬
dened, the plant promises well for next June ;
but those who grow this interesting little shrub
would do well to shelter it in spring from
biting winds, which do more harm than frost.

Rock Plants.

These have suffered considerably from the
long-continued drought, but the charming little
alpine Catchfly (Silene alpestris) held its own
throughout. This little plant is sure to become
popular, for the deep notch in each petal of its
pure white flowers gives it a distinct character,
which is very attractive; and it is seldom
passed by without notice. This Catchfly is
often met with under the name of S. rupestris,
from which species it may be distinguished not
only by the form of its flowers, but of its
seeds. Through an ordinary magnifying
glass the little flat brown seeds will be seen
to havo a fringe of stiff hairs round their
margins, a peculiarity which belongs only to
S. alpestris and one or two other closely-allied
species. Amongst fine Saxifrages, a special
word of praise should be given to S. Wallacei,
which is equally good for rockwork, for border,
or for pots to bloom in the cold greenhouse in
early spring. Its large white flowers are very
handsome, and it blooms for many weeks with¬
out intermission, and since it gives no trouble
but that of clipping off the seed-stalks, it should
be found in every garden where dwarf plants are
valued.

The Chinese Bell Flower (Plattcodon
c.randiflorum),

Or, as it is sometimes called, the Balloon Flower,
appears to be perfectly hardy here, and blooms
well every year, but this season it has been
remarkably tine. The peculiar metallic hue of
its flowers and stems marks it as a distinct
plant where it succeeds; but it needs a dry soil,
and is apt easily to get twisted out of shape by
rough winds, and requires support. The best
plan with this .and many other plants is to stake
early with a twiggy branch or two in proportion
to their height and size, in order that they may
giow up through the twigs and so get support
in a natural manner without need of tying. The
Balloon Flower, though interesting, is not
showy enough to take a prominent position in
the garden. Not so, however, with

Geranium platypetalum,

Which is one of the best border plants of its
kind to be met with. For this fine Geranium I
am indebted to the kindness of the Rev. H.
Ewbank, and I am tfclined Jfco think] thpt it is
com]brativ*ly rare j&n gy-jtua ^Jt| closely

allied to another good species, G. ibericum,
which it very nearly resembles, but is far away
the best of the two, giving, as it does, a much

g reater profusion of its beautiful blue-purple
owers for some weeks in late summer, and
coming, year after year, with no trouble at all
save the original planting. In some gardens, 1
as here, G. platypetalum ripens very little seed,
in which respect also it differs greatly from its
coDgener, G. ibericum, which seems to seed
freely everywhere, and to this cause, perhaps,
may be attributed its scarcity. Two pretty
little rock Geraniums, which never grow too
rampant, are G. cinereum, with pale pencilled
flowers, and G. subcaulescens, very similar in
habit, but with red-purple flowers. These are
seldom without some bloom throughout the
summer, and are useful little species for growing
either on the level border or amoDgst rough
stones.

Herbaceous Stir^as

Have been full of bloom this season, but the
hot sun soon spoilt the beauty of those which
were not partly shaded. The lovely pink
S. venusta, in a shady border, was very fine,
and is well worth a place, even in a small
garden, especially for a damp corner where it
may get room to spread. Cimicifuga racemosa,
with long drooping spikes of white Spiraja-like
flowers, is very elegant, and gets better and
better the longer it is established. Amongst the

Evening Primroses,

Of which there are several good species here,
(Enothera Frazeri and (E. Youngi should be
specially mentioned as first-rate summer¬
flowering border plants of moderate size. Both
are yellow-flowered, and, unlike most of their
kind, are well suited for cutting, as they do not
close during the day, and last for some time in
water. For a rough bit of ground nothing
succeeds better than Gil. fruticosa, with spikes
of lovely bright yellow flowers, which give a
peculiarly good evening effect, difficult to
describe in words, but it is apt to become a
troublesomeweed. The fine old (E. missouriensis
is a trailing species, with very lar^e lemon-
yellow flowers, which is not so much in fashion
as it used to be. White Evening Primroses are
mostly more difficult to grow and keep than
yellow-flowered kinds. (E. speciosa, where it
does well, is lovely, but troublesome from its
wandering propensities. The blooms of GC.
taraxacifolia are in themselves beautiful, but
the growth and foliage become coarse and
rampant.

A garden of Bell Worts (Campanula) only
would be very interesting, and might include
plants of all heights from an inch or two, liko
the tiny Ivy-leaved Bellflower, to those of 6
feet or more, like the Chimney Bellflower.
Two white-flowered species are well worth
growing—the white variety of the tall broad-
leaved Bellflower (C. latifolia), which succeeds
well in shade, and is strikingly handsome ; and
a very distinct medium-sized kind, C. alliariaj-
folia, with numerous spikes of creamy-white
drooping flowers which has been in bloom con¬
tinuously throughout the season. Another Bell¬
flower, with very pale lavender recurved bells,
C. sarmatica, is pretty and not very common.
To conclude these summer notes with

Bulbs and Tubebs.

Border Lilies have done remarkably well.
Much has been written about rare and beauti¬
ful Lilies of all kinds, and every lover of plants
has been tempted to plant them in greater or
less quantity, according to his means, and in
most cases with more or less disappointment.
It is to be feared that there are but few which
are so hardy as to succeed in any ordinary

S arden. Of these few, the varieties of L.

avuricum are amongst the most satisfactory.
Some clumps in a broad border, having a Holly
hedge for background, were very handsome,
lighting up the garden with their grand umbels
of glowing red orange. Martagons of all sorts
are also very hardy. The best varieties only
should be grown when such beautiful sorts as
the deep crimson M. dalmaticum and the white
variety are just as easy to manage as the common
cottage garden kinds. The Nankeen Lily (L.
testaceum) is another robust plant for a shady I
corner, or growing up amoDg3t shrubs ; and j
though it is considered by some to be a hybrid (
of little value, it is an easily-grown, and withal
a distinct and desirable species for small
gardens, where flowers are wanted, rather than

great rarities. The Sealing-wax Lily (C. chalcc-
donicum) is not so easily to be coaxed into good
bloom. It is, however, an established cultural
fact here that it prefers partial shade to full
exposure, otherwise the leaves turn yellow
before the flowers begin to open. To show its
capricious disposition, in the school-house
garden, not many yards from the rectory, this
Lily flourishes to perfection, but here it has never
been satisfactory ; yet it is one of those which
everyone ought to attempt. These, with the

5 ood old white Madonna, the Orange, and the
'iger Lilies, make op the best half-dozen sorts
for ordinary borders where choice plants are
wanted, and will, moreover, seldom lead to dis¬
appointment. All kinds of
Gladioli, beginning with the early flowering
G. Colvillei, red and white, have been splendid.

A bed of fine sorts sent to me as spawn four
seasons ago by Captain Barnard Hankey, and
left undisturbed ever since, bloomed finely last
year, and still better this August, producing
grand spikes, the dry soil of thisgarden evidently
suiting them. This fact may be of use to those
who grow Gladioli under similar conditions, as
these certainly did not deteriorate by being
allowed to remain in the ground. Two-year-old
seedlings of

Alstrcemeria h^emantha also bloomed finely.

The delicate pink and buff flowers of these, with
their elegant form and slashings of brown, place
them amongst the most charming of hardy
tubers, and they cannot be considered difficult
to grow, at any rate in dry soils. They are in
any case well worthy of a little care in planting
in a warm sheltered position, if possible under
a wall, and protecting with ashes at the roots
during the winter. MontbretiaPottsialso, turned
out of a pot last year, bloomed well, and w as
exceedingly handsome in the open border with¬
out any particular attention. As complaints
are being made of want of success in flowering
these fine bulbs, it may be well to call attention
to the advice of Mr. Thompson, of Ipswich, than
whom we can have no better authority. He re¬
commends the clumps to be broken up, and the
strongest bulbs planted 6 inches apart, under
which treatment each is sure to flower, other¬
wise all the strength of the bulbs is taken up in
producing off-sets.

The above are some of the summer-flowering
plants which may be grown in the amateur's
garden of moderate size, giving little trouble or
expense, and, at the same time, a large amount
of pleasure. K. L. D.

Plants in flower. —The following list of
plants in flower in my garden, October 24, may
prove interesting, as showing what an excep¬
tional autumn this is (in sixteen years we
have not known its like):—Roses: Auguste Mie,
Pauline Langemeur, General Jacquemmot, Paul
Neron, Alfrede de Rathniri, G6ant dea Bat-
tailles, Gloire de Dijon, White Lamarque,
Marshal Niel, Souvenir d’un frfere, Souvenir de
Malmaison, Aim£e Vibert, Afadame Villermoz,
and Acidalie ; Campanulas, double and single ;
Helianthus, double and single ; annual and peren¬
nial Dahlias, Pentstemons, Phloxes (American
and Drummondi—the latter splendid), Japan
Anemones fpink and white), summer and winter
Chrysanthemums, Helichrysums, Geranium
roseum, Antirrhinums, Carnations, and Sweet
Williams, zonal, tricolor, sweet - scented,
unique, and scarlet Pelargoniums of every
variety, brown and yellow shrubby Calceolarias,
Tradescantia, Virginian Stocks, coloured and
sweet Verbena, Michaelmas Daisies, Perilla,
Coleus, Pyrethrum, Lobelias, dwarf Evening
Primrose, Heliotrope, Petunias, Tritoma
grandis, Russian Violets, Calvary Clover,
Candytuft (self-sown plants from last May’s
seed), Mignonette, Nasturtium*, and Canary
Creeper. The annuals are, in fact, too nume¬
rous to name at all. The glory of the garden
is certainly the beds of dark red Coleus edged
with Golden Feather. We have not touched our
bedding plants as yet, except to take up a few
that were wanted for indoor decoration in
winter.—A. B. T., East Anglia.

Herbaceous borders.— Will you allow
me a small space to correct another of “ J. D.*s **
assumptions ? I and my gardener do not believe
in spaces. Our plants are as close together as
they can 1 e consistently with allowing any
growth. Whether the “doggy" story would
not apply better to the very dicta torial tone of j
“J. I). V’own articlec, wrdoh hai more than

Nov. 8, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

427

once provoked remonstrances from your corre-1
spondents, I leave them to judge.—A. B. T.,
East Anglia .

The alpine Erysimums are among the
prettiest of the mountain flowers of Europe.
The genus is an enormous one, but there are com¬
paratively few species in it showy enough for
cultivation, and, with the exception of the well-
known annual E. Peroffskianum, only some
half - dozen alpine perennial species are in
general cultivation. These include the charm¬
ing little E. pumilum. It is a remarkable
little plant, and is often called the Lilliputian
Wallflower, as it resembles in the size and
colour of its flowers the alpine Wallflower, but
without the vigorous and rich green foliage of |
the species, producing flowers very large for the
size of the plant, often only an inch high, above
a few narrow, sparsely toothed leaves barely
rising from the ground. Sometimes the flowers
are nearly as large as those on healthy tufts of
the alpine Wallflower, and yet the whole plant,
flowers and all, can be almost covered by a
thimble. In richer soil and less exposed spots
it grows larger. It is a native of high and bare
places in the Alps and Pyrenees, requiring to be
grown on rockwork in an exposed spot in very

it so ; but it is one of the many plants that enjoy
the luxury of being left alone, as it only makes
a really effective display when well established.
All sorts of strange kinds of treatment to make
it flower freely find credence—such as treading
on with the feet, rolling with a garden roller,
&c. ; but I find that if planted as an edging to
garden walks in little tufts about 6 inches apart
it spreads out and forms a compact mass of
crowns in about two years, and is then very
effective; in fault, there are few more brilliant

{ >lants in a garden than a dense mass of this
ovely blue flower. Although by no means a
new plant in our gardens, it is not so plentiful
as one might reasonably expect, for if it were a
plant requiring a high temperature under glass
to grow it, instead of being hardy enough to
brave our most severe winters, we should find
such a gem coddled up with the greatest care,
and no expense spared to flower it, as it out¬
lives the majority of Orchids that require great
expense to cultivate.—J. Groom, Gosport .

Colouring of Virginian Creeper.— The
fiery autumn tints of this beautiful climber now
forms very conspicuous objects on walls, and I find
that the amount of colouring is exactly in propor¬
tion to the amount of sunlight the plants receive

sandy or gritty loam, surrounded by a few small
stones to guard it from excessive drought and
accident, and associated with the choicest and
most minute alpine plants. It is very nearly
related to the alpine Wallflower, E. ochroleu- j
cum, but is at once distinguishable from that
plant by its minuteness and the dull greyish
^reen colour of its leaves. E. rhteticum, here
figured, is somewhat similar to E. pumilum, but
is a larger plant altogether. The flowers are
a bright lemon-yellow, and so numerously pro¬
duced in early summer that no foliage can be
seen. It is a vigorous little plant, thriving,
like the rest of the alpine Erysimums, in loamy
soil with an admixture of limestone, and always
in an exposed and well-drained spot in the rock
garden. A native of Rhretia.

G-entiana acaulis is now in beautiful
bloom, and, although usually a bright ornament
of the spring flower garden, it is this season
giving us a good display of autumn bloom as
well. This is doubtless due to the enforced rest
it had by reason of the intense drought in July
and the early part of August, but the copious
rainB that fell at the end of that month set this
and other plants into active growth, and the
blossoms have opened out as if real spring were
already with us. I find so many say that this
U a difficult plant to ci

Digitized by

£ound

during their season of growth. In this locality
they are very extensively employed for covering
lofty walls, and, as might be expected after such
a hot, dry summer, the autumn tints are un¬
usually brilliant, at least, on south walls, while
on east and west aspects they are fairly well
coloured, and on north walls the leaves die off, of
nearly a green colour ; therefore in choosing the
aspect for this elegant creeper it should be borne
in mind that sunshine is the thing it requires
to develop its rich colouring to perfection. It is
an excellent plant for mixed combination, and
its long pendant shoots look extremely graceful,
hanging from a dark groundwork of Ivy or any
other climber ; a few shoots trained in at this
time of year and allowed to develop at
next season will add considerably to the
autumn effect of a collection of wall climbers.
The small leaved Ampelopsis Veitcliii is a de¬
cided improvement on the older and larger leaved
kind, as it clings, like Ivy, most tenaciously to
brickwork, and requires no nailing or fastening
of any kind. For decoration the shoots of this
kind are very useful, as the leaves are most
beautifully coloured, and of a nice size for
wreath making ; and at this time of year,
when the flower garden is beginning to lose its
brilliant colouring, the use of foliage for indoor
decoration is of the utmost value to those who

have to supply material from limited resources.
— James Groom, Gosport , Hants.

Lily of the Field.— Stern berg i a lutea.
—Clumps of this good old autumn-flowering
bulb have been very gay here for these six weeks
post, and there are still a few flowers to open.
One clump at the base of a rugged stairway in
the rock garden has been especially good. It is
fully IS inches in diameter, and the pretty
yellow blooms peeping up from among the
healthy green foliage are very welcome at this
time of the year. What frost wo have had up
to the present has not injured either the foliage
or the flowers in the least. Planted in good
sandy loam, it Boon establishes itself, and is
sure to be much admired.—T. J.

12160.—Bamboos in the open air.—

Bamboos are successfully grown in the open

f round in this country, the hardiest kinds being
'ortunei, nigra, and Metake. They will resist
quite JO degs. of frost, without iD jury or without
even diminishing their verdure, but cold, drying
easterly winds generally discolour the leaves ;
therefore it is best to plant where the plants
are sheltered from them. Bamboos will grow
in almost any soil, but they like plenty of
moisture and food, therefore the ground should
be well Btirred and manured before planting.
Set the plants out in April, mulch around them
with rotten manure, and water copiously in hot
weather. They will not make pvogress the first
year or so, but when thoroughly established
they go away with great freedom. — Byfleet.

12149. — Self-coloured Clove Carna¬
tions. —The following are six of the best
varieties : Gloire de Nancy, white ; Improve¬
ment, purple ; Mary Morris, rose ; Hindoo,
crimson; Amethyst, scarlet; and Gertrude
Kigner, pink. Then there are : Ambassador,
light purple ; Souvenir de la Malmaison, flesh
white; Napoleon III., light scarlet; Fire
Eater, light carmine; Blush Clove, blush ;
Purity, or the Bride, white ; and Auctioneer,
magenta. A fine bed might be made of these.
J. P., Lancashire.

121G1.— Pampas Grass.— The time to
plant this is in April, just when it commences
to grow. If planted in winter the roots are apt
to perish. Any good garden soil will do, but to
obtain a good growth it should be well stirred
and plenty of good rotten manure added. In
light soils the ground should be moved to &
depth of 2 feet. Mulch with rotten dung in
spring, and water copiously in dry weather, and
it will make a good growth. Pampas Grass is
apt to be killed in severe winters, so that it is
as well to draw the leaves together in December,
tying them, and putting several inches of light
material around the crown. If frost should kill
the foliage the crown is preserved, and but little
trace of injury is perceived by the following
summer. Plant, it possible, in shelter from
rough winds, which mar the beauty of the
plumes. —J. C. B.

-This will grow in any good garden soil not too

heavy. It is better to plant out in the spring, else the
plants may be killed by severe frost in winter.—J. D. E.

12090.—Variegated Ivies.—A very fine golden ivy is
Hedera angularia aurea; a tine clear, yellow, vatiegnted
variety, and possibly that may be the plant intended in the
notes on Ivy in No 276. “ A Lover of Ivies " will And it a
gorxi gold« n Ivy, and he will procure it from Mr. Ware, of
the Tottenham Nurseries, or, 1 think, from Messrs. Richard
Smith and Co., of Worcester.—J. P., Lancashire.

12139 —Poppies and Sunflowers.— Wait until
spring and then sow the seed ; it is too late now.—E.
MahqBRBSON, C hcsterfielil.

12144.—Cutting back Hydrangeas.— Cut them
down at the end of January and repot after they have
started into growth.—E. Makoerbson, Chesterfield.

12150.— Fuchsia procumbens. — This species of
Fuchsia was introduced from New Zealand, and was first
exhibited by Mr. Kinghorn of Richmond, at one of the
Royal Horticultural Society’s meeting, August 5th, 1&74.
It is a very distinct species with slendt-r stems, which arc
furnished with small ovate leaves inclining to mund. The
llow-ersarc small with a yellow tube, the reflexed segments
being green and maroon. The whole plant is neat and of
creeping habit.—J. D. E.

_ An elegant trailing species; amo?t attractive basket

plant. The Howere are very curious-colour, groemsh
yellow and purple. They are followed by berries elliptical
or oblong in shape, about 1 inch long ; they are first of a
greenish yellow, then dunging to rosy pur pi o.—E. Mar-
ukrksok, Barloto, Chesterfield.

Nettles as a vegetable. - It would be a great
boon to farm labourers and artisans in count y districts
were it more widely kno*n what a capital addition to a
dinner can be made of the common field Nettle. In
gathering, the youngest and freshest only should be got,
and half an hour’s rentle boiling will be sufficientto make
them on a par with the ordinary Cabbago. Eat with

vln ^f T^rrr&F i lli n o t s at

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

428

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 8, 1884.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Such things as Gloxinias, Achimenes, herbaceous
Gesneras, and Gloriosas, although bearing in
many cases a lower temperature through the
winter than might be supposed from the warm
countries from which they originate, will not do
to be kept too cool, as many to their cost yearly
discover when it is too late, through the tubers
going off in a damp, mouldy condition. In
most cases, as I have before mentioned, the
roots keep best in the pots in which they were
grown, the soil having been allowed to get quite
dry ; yet pots with apparently nothing in them
beyond the soil which they contain are not
sightly objects in plant houses, and it often
happens that there is no other place where they
can be kept at a suitable temperature. This
being so, it is best to put them in paper bags
with a good body of dry sand round them, the
object of which is to keep the air to a great
extent from them ; otherwise, if the atmosphere
is too dry, they not unusually shrivel up. In a
temperature of 55 degs., or a few degrees above
that, they are not likely to take any harm.

Caladiums should be similarly treated. The
small C. argyrites is now by many grown in
quantity for the use of the leaves to mix with
cut flowers, as well as for general decoration in
small pots. Where the stock of it happens to be
limited it will best be increased by now turning
the plants out of the soil and repotting, keeping
them growing instead of allowing them to
remain in a dormant state through the winter.
Moderate-sized tubers that have been in a state
of semi-rest, if now placed in a brisk heat, will
at once commence to grow, and as soon as the
young crowns have got two or three leaves, and
attained a height of 3 inches or 4 inches, they
may be taken from the parent tuber and placed
singly in small pots, keeping them well up to
the light. The latter is essential with any
plant of a like character to this which has to be
so used, for, unless the leaves are of a stocky,
robust character, they are useless in the lower
temperature to which they will ultimately be
subjected.

Gardenias. —Plants of these required for
winter flowering should have the best position
that the warmest end of the stove can afford.
They are, more than many things, liable to drop
their bloom-buds in the winter season, often
when so far advanced as to be almost on the
verge of expanding ; extremes from any cause,
either from being too dry or too wet at the roots,
too much moisture in the atmosphere, too much
h eat suddenly applied, or the opposite of being
too cold, especially after the flowers have
attained considerable size, will cause their
falling off, although the mischief will not always
be apparent for some weeks after whatever may
bring it about has occurred. The most effectual
means for avoiding the flowers dropping is to
keep the plants in as light a position as possible.
The little G. citriodora, blooming as it does in
such a small state, if grown in quantity will
always be found useful, especially where many
flowers are wanted for bouquets.

Amaryllises that bloomed late, and made
correspondingly late growth, will now need
keeping at rest. This refers both to the
deciduous and evergreen kinds ; the former are
safe anywhere with the heat of an ordinary

reenhouse, and will bear the soil keeping quite

ry. The evergreen sorts should be kept suffi¬
ciently dry during the winter to get them fairly
to rest; but, on the other hand, they must not
be allowed to get so dry as to cause their leaves
to shrivel, as where this happens premature loss
of foliage is sure to occur, which reduces the
strength of the bulbs. With young stock of the
evergreen species the roots should not be
further dried than will result from keeping the
s >il in a slightly moist condition.

Tuberoses.— There are few things that afford
such a long succession of flowers as Tuberoses,
for where enough are grown they may be had in
bloom for much the greater part of the year.
Those who want to have them in good time
should at once provide a sufficient quantity of
roots, potting a portion up without delay, and
keeping the remainder dry for the present, pot¬
ting them at intervals. The American grown
roots are held in much the most favour at the
present day. Those who have had little
experience with these plants often fail in getting
the bulbs to start, generally through their decay-

Lo gle

ing instead of forming roots, and to which they
are very liable unless great caution is used in
the matter of water; for if the soil is kept in
anything approaching the moist condition that
most other plants would need, the mischief is
almost certain to occur. We have succeeded
best by potting them in soil in a comparatively
dry state, and then standing the pots on the
earthern floor or pit, or some moisture-holding
material slightly damp, from which the pots
will usually absorb enough until the roots are
well in motion, when they will bear the soil to
be kept fairly moist.

Bougainvilleas.— When grown in a warm
stove, B. glabra is so manageable that, with the
aid of two or three good-sized pot specimens, it
may be had in flower for the greater portion of
the year, ranging from April to the end of
October. It likewise succeeds well when planted
out in a low, intermediate heat little above that
of a greenhouse, flowering as a matter of course
later in the summer; but when thus subjected to
cool treatment it differs much from most other
things in rarely blooming anything worth notice
if the roots are confined to a pot, keeping on
growing through the summer without much
disposition to flower. B. spectabilis at one time
was supposed to be a very difficult plant to
flower, only succeeding in a high temperature,
where, in addition, its roots could be almost
baked with heat when at rest; yet it grows and
blooms freely either planted out or accom¬
modated with a large box or tub in a warm
greenhouse or conservatory, usually coming in
about May or June, and sometimes again in the
autumn. Its intensely deep bright pinkish
mauve bracts are finer coloured than those of
B. glabra, but as this plant blooms from the
ripe wood the knife must be little used, except
after the spring flowering, when the shoots
should be so far reduced as to keep it within the
requisite bounds. It is a strong grower, cover¬
ing a large space when it has plenty of root and
also head room. It should now be gradually
dried off for the winter, giving very little water
for a considerable time.

Flower Garden.

General work.— Every exertion should be
made to advance the transplanting of trees,
shrubs, and Roses, which as a rule do best when
planted in autumn, for although in open weather
planting may be safely done all through the
winter, a comparison of results would soon
determine the undecided in favour of autumn
planting. If an exception to this rule were made,
it ought only to be in those cases where the
plastic nature of the soil renders it all but
impossible to plant at any season earlier than
the middle of February. Other heavy jobs
should be undertaken, such as gravel digging,
draining, rood and walk making and mending,
the cutting of verges, laying of turf, trimming
hedges, and the burning up of the cuttings,
together with the summer’s accumulation of the
rubbish heap, the ashes from which are of great
manurial value for almost any crop. The mar¬
vellous reaction that has of late years taken
place in favour of hardy flowers has to a large
extent done away with the reproach once so
common in gardens, viz., that of having bare
beds for six months or more out of the twelve.
Where these undesirable conditions still hold
sway, there will be a certain amount of satisfac¬
tion obtained in the way of neatness and of
profit to the land if the beds be at once deeply
trenched, neatly edged, and the soil levelled
down with a rake. The baldness and grave-like
appearance of the beds may be relieved at the
price of a few hours’ labour only by dotting over
them a few trimmed, tree-like branches of ever¬
green shrubs, a recommendation that is made
not because it is a desirable way to furnish the
beds, but simply as being preferable to the de¬
pressing sight that such beds present at the
dullest season of the year, when to make amends
for gloominess we ought to strive the more to
impart brightness into our gardens.

Bedding plants.— Dahlias, Gladioli, and all
other tuberous plants having been lifted and
partially dried, ought now to be planted thickly
in boxes, or on the floor of a cool cellar or shed ;
sifted leaf-soil and Cocoa fibre refuse are the
best materials with which to surround them.
Lobelias of the cardinalis section, Verbena
venosa, and Salvia patens winter best in day¬
light, and therefore these should be afforded the
shelter of a cold pit, but may be heeled in quite

as thickly and with similar material as the pre¬
ceding. Pelargoniums must be kept on the dry
side as to moisture at the root, whilst the atmo¬
sphere should be as dry as possible. Where
there are houses especially constructed for
wintering and growing such plants, there is no
difficulty as to wintering the plants well, but
oftener than not one has to put up with make¬
shift contrivances, or else to make use of
vineries, Peach houses, &c., when the first
study must, of course, be the trees, and there¬
fore bedding plants have to take their chance ;
but with careful watering and timely removal
of decaying leaves they can generally be wintered
with a fair amount of success. It is necessary
to keep the tender section in strong heat—
shelves in Pine and plant stoves are the best

ositions, and the plants at this season must be

ut sparingly watered. The hardier material
in cold frames, such as Verbenas, Calceolarias,
and Violas, should be fully exposed in fine
weather, and the surface of the soil loosened
with a pointed stick to prevent the growth of
Moss and fungu3, either of which, if allowed to
extend, would cause the plants to rot off.

Fruit.

Vines. —When all the leaves are off the vines,
steady attention to cleanliness, gentle warmth,
and ventilation will carry all the late keeping
kinds on to Christmas, when they may be cut,
bottled, and the vines pruned and rested. If
not already done, the internal borders in the
late vinery may be well covered with loose, dry
Bracken for the twofold purpose of keeping
down dust and absorbing moisture. Outside
borders may also be covered with boards to
throw off cold rain and snow, from the time the
leaves fall until the Grapes are cut, when
exposure will again be preferable to getting the
roots too dry. Where late Muscats are wanted
to keep as long as possible, the houses will
require very careful management during the fall
of the leaf. Let the temperature decline to 50
degs. in mild weather, and give no more fire
heat than is requisite to the maintenance of a
dry, cool atmosphere and safety from frost.
Remove all plauts and evaporating pans, cover
the floor with Ferns, and dry or cover up water
cisterns, to prevent the absorption of moisture
by the atmosphere, which must now be dry and
buoyant. As thoroughly ripened Muscats are
easily caught by the sun, it is a good plan to
strain a piece of netting or thin canvas across
the roof of modern houses to protect the
shoulders, and to secure an equal temperature
through the night. If any late Hamburghs are
still hanging on the vines in houses which
were retarded in the spring, they will now keep
better in the Grape room, and in order to
thoroughly ripen up the wood, the house may be
subjected to a period of sharp, dry firing,
with plenty of air on fine days.

Early vineries from which the first crop of
fruit is to be gathered in May may be closed at
once. If fermenting material is applied to the
internal borders, a temperature ranging from
45 degs. to 50 degs. may be maintained without
the aid of much fire heat, but in the event of
the weather becoming very cold the pipes must
be warmed every morning, and the swelling of
the buds aided by frequent syringing with warm
water. The best material for producing general
warmth is fresh Oak leaves and short stable
manure, thoroughly worked and fermented before
it is taken into the house. The outside borders,
hitherto exposed to the elements, may be
protected with litter or shutters, but no artificial
heat must be applied to them until the buds begin
to swell. After the house has been closed for a
week or two the temperature may range about
55 degs., with a rise of 5 degs. to 10 degs. on
sunny days. Examine the borders, and if the
repeated waterings, littleand often, as previously
recommended, have not thoroughly penetrated
to and through the drainage, give a thorough
soaking with water at a temperature of 90 degs.,
and cover up immediately with the fermenting
material. If the vines are young they may be
slung in a horizontal position, as more time
and attention will be needed to secure an even
break, while old ones will break equally well
if tied up to the wires as soon as thev are pruned
and dressed and exposed to a few degrees more
heat by day ; but in all cases from the beginning
to the end a low or resting night temperature
will be found one of the main features of success
in the cultivation of G rapes,

iJIMIVEKSiiTY Or .LINOIS AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Nov. 8, 1884.]

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

429

H ardy fruit. —The necessity for early plant¬
ing and renovation of fruit tree borders has
been so often insisted on in these pages, that
nothing further need be added except that such
work should, if possible, be brought to a close
by the end of this month. Any that then re¬
main to be done had better be deferred till
vegetation again becomes active. From the
foregoing it will be seen that we attach some
importance to the season, or what may be
termed the right time for planting; but after
all, comparatively speaking, this is but a
secondary consideration, as successful planting
may be done any time from October to April;
but we attach the greatest importance to the
mode of planting ; by which is meant not only
the literal planting of the trees, but the proper
preparation of the ground for them, and in
doing this the first essential is good drainage.
Every kind of cultivated hardy fruit, from a
Peach to a Gooseberry, resents anything like a
stagnant state of the soil; moreover, good
drainage increases by several degrees its tem¬
perature, and, as a matter of course, this must
aid the most perfect development of the fruit.
The kind of soil that suits fruit trees generally
is a calcareous loam of moderate texture—that
is neither heavy nor light—but of necessity this
matter must be subject to local considerations,
as often the soil best suited for certain trees is
not obtainable ; but, though there is a best kind,
they are by no means fastidious, and all soils
worthy of the name can, by a little outlay of
time and money, be made to grow fruit well.
Light ground should be trenched very deeply,
and, if procurable, heavy loam or clay should be
intermixed with it, but if this be not obtainable
well firming will in some measure atone for its
absence. Very heavy or clayey soils should
also be trenched, and any sort of material that
would render it more porous, such as mortar
rubble, charcoal, and cinder ashes, should be
added, and it must be allowed to subside natu¬
rally, without artificial compression. Unless the
soil be very poor indeed, no manure of any kind
should be mixed directly with it, for the simple
reason that the disposition of all fruit trees,
when planted in rich soils, inclines towards the
production of wood rather than fruit. It must
not be inferred from this that manure is not
essential to the production of good fruit, for it
most certainly is, but never till the trees have
fairly begun fruiting, and then annual surface
dressings have the most marked effect, for thus
applied it is not only valuable from a fertilising
point of view, but it tends to keep the roots near
the surface, a position in which they are most
benefited by the action of sun and air. All
who have plenty of ground for kitchen garden
crops should never think of encroaching on the
fruit tree borders, and those who by the force
of circumstances must thus crop, should at least
allow each tree a fair modicum of space. Keep
the roots near the surface, deep planting is an
error. Above all let them be well spread out
and the soil worked well amongst them with
the hand, and afterwards let the trees be
securely staked, for till that is done all fresh
roots that may be made will, by the first gale,
be destroyed by the swaying to and fro of the
trees.

Vegetables.

Earthing Celery forms at present the greater
part of our work. Whenever the weather is
dry get it well banked up ; a sharp frost coming
before the final earthing is most detrimental to
its well-being. Continue to lift Carrots, Turnips,
and Beet, stacking them outside in small round
pits ; a cartload in each is plenty ; cover up first
with dry straw, then put on the soil about 6
inches thick. Our earliest sowing of Peas we
make about the middle of the month. I find
Laxton’s William I. to be a hardy and good
standard variety. A good site for Peas is a
warm south border; we sow them in drills
about 4 feet apart, and if the following advice
is adhered to, a good crop will be the result.
As soon as the plants show themselves above the
ground cover them over 1 inch thick with coal
ashes, this wards off their enemy, the slug ; and
placing four strings of white worsted along the
rows, elevated about 6 inches above the ground,
in a great measure keeps off the birds. When
the Peas show through the ashes they should
bo earthed and rodded immediately. Nothing
is so bad for Peas as Bharp cutting surface winds
in Bpring, but by adding a few Spruce branches

along each side all wir-—- 1 15 - 1

]' If.’- • » 1

^Broad

Beans (Old Green Windsor is still my favourite)
should also be planted—these brave the
winter winds better than Peas; still, if earliness
is a consideration, protect them, and they will
pay for it.

ROSES.

GUMMING ROSES FOR EXHIBITION.

TO THE EDITOR OF “GARDENING.”

Sir, —At our last show a case of gumming
Rosea was discovered, and after the exhibitor
had prevaricated and then confessed, he was
unanimously disqualified. Afterwards, at his
earnest solicitation, it was resolved to obtain an
opinion from the National Rose Society, and to
reconsider the resolution of disqualification if
necessary. In order that this position shall
appear quite clear, the concluding paragraph of
the case, sent by us, is given :—“ The committee
of the National Rose Society are, therefore,
asked their opinion upon the practice of gum¬
ming, and to give it their official approval or
condemnation. ” To our utter astonishment,
after waiting some months, we received from the
hon. secretary a “ decision ” that the exhibitor
was not disqualified, and that the medals had
been sent to him. To this treatment the
committee decidedly object, aud have protested
their discontent. Until this time we had
thought the National Society represented the
English rosarians, but this extraordinary action
led us to doubt whether it was really a repre¬
sentative body. We, therefore, addressed a
letter to about thirty of the leading rose growers
in England, and are not a little pleased to find
that they strongly condemn the practice and
award disqualification as the punishment,
exactly as we did and exactly as the National
Rose Society didn’t. As this is by no means
an unimportant question, perhaps you will
fiud room for a few of the opinions we have
received :—

Messrs. Cranston and Co., Hereford—
“Gumming Roses for exhibition is decidedly
illegal, and would not be tolerated by our
National Rose Society. Any person found
guilty of such a dishonourable practice should
be excluded from exhibiting at any future
shows.”

Mr. Bruce Findlay, Royal Botanic Gardens,
Manchester—“I have to say that I consider
such a proceeding altogether unsound, and if
we found out any person guilty of such a
practice he would not be allowed to exhibit
again at our exhibitions, and I should be in¬
clined to label him a trickster.”

Mr. George Baker, Holmfels—“I most un¬
hesitatingly say that in my judgment the appli¬
cation of gum to the centre of Roses intended
to be staged for exhibition is neither legitimate
nor fair to other exhibitors.”

Mr. Benjamin R. Cant, Colchester—“ If I
were a judge and discovered that any Rose
blooms exhibited were gummed, I should most
certainly disqualify the stand, and I expressed
that view at a meeting of the National Rose
Society held recently in London.”

Mr. R. H. Vertegan.s, Birmingham—“ It is a
most reprehensible practice, and should be dis¬
countenanced by all committees of such exhibi¬
tions. Of course it would disqualify an exhi¬
bitor from exhibiting at any of our great Rose
shows ; therefore your committee will be per¬
fectly justified in disqualifying any exhibitor
who carries on such a practice.”

Mr. G. W. Piper, Uckfield, Sussex—“I
should disqualify without the least hesitation.
It is a most unfair practice to the honest exhi¬
bitors, and I do hope the offender will be brought
to book.”

Messrs. F. and A. Dickson and Sons, Chester
—“ We consider gumming or dressing of any
kind quite illegitimate and unfair in competi¬
tive classes. ”

Mr. JamesDickson and Sons, Chester—“ We
consider the practice of gumming the centre of
Rose blooms that are intended for exhibition
neither legitimate, honourable, nvr fair to other
exhibitors.”

Mr. J. Ridout, Reigate—“ I should most
decidedly consider it anything but legitimate,
honourable, or fair to other exhibitors, and any
one guilty of such a thing should be disqualified.”

Mr. Henry Fretting ham, Beeston, near
Nottingham—“ I should certainly not allow

any gumming in the Rose, and would disqualfy
the man who did it. These things want putting
down, and I for one would lift up my hand
against all such practices.”

Mr. S. P. Budd, Bath—“ I consider the
practice most dishonourable, and not at all
legitimate, and if acting as judge at any Rose
show Bhould disqualify any box in which I
detected the gumming of the centre of a single
bloom.”

Mr. Charles Turner, Slough—“I never
before heard of gumming Rose petals. It is
neither legitimate, honourable, or fair. The
Roses so used should disqualify any stand.”

Messrs. Wm. Paul and Son, Waltham Cross,
Herts—“The gumming of the centres of Roses
exhibited for competition should disqualify the
exhibit."

Mr. E. Walker, secretary of the Leek Floral
and Horticultural Society :—“ I am directed by
the committee to inform you that they have no
hesitation whatever in stigmatising the practice
of gumming Roses as highly dishonourable,
illegitimate, and distinctly unfair. If such a
case of tampering with flowers had occurred at
their show, instant disqualification would have
resulted.”

This chorus of approval of what we have done,
by gentlemen of “light and leading” in the
Rose world, reads queerly enough by the sido
of the uncalled-for “decision” given by the
National Rose Society. However, if our action
and the opinions we have elicited result in pro¬
ducing a healthier understanding upon the sub¬
ject, our labour will not have been in vain.
Pending other proceedings, the holder of the
medals is welcome to any “ honour ” or gratifi¬
cation to which their temporary possession may
entitle him. For ourselves we have to say that
we have disqualified him for ever, and have
severed our connection with the society which
sustains him in his highly questionable claim,
and sanctions his more than questionable con¬
duct.—I am, Sir, yours obediently,

A. Johnson, Hon. Sec.

Leek Rose Society, October 28th, 1834.

NOTES ON PRUNING ROSES.

It has often occurred to me that Roses, and
many other things for that matter, are too
severely pruned—pruned, in fact, simply because
it was the custom of our forefathers to do so.
There should always be a sufficient reason for
pruning a tree of any kind. No doubt, in some
cases at least, Roses are pruned with the view
of inducing them to furnish one or two, as the
case may be, blossoms suitable to appear on
the exhibition table. Now it becomes an open
question whether this is really the end and aim
of Rose growing from a general point of view,
or whether general garden embellishment is not
a much higher and far more desirable object
altogether than that of producing twelve or
twenty-four Rose blooms once or so per annum,
which one takes to a show and at the end of
the day sells for half a-crown, or gives away to
friends, as the case may be, and have done
with Roses for twelve months to come. I saw
this summer a specimen of that universal favou¬
rite, General Jacqueminot, fully 5 feet high, and
nearly as much through, with a few more than
fifty flowers upon it at the same time. This it
never pruned further than when a shoot shows
a tendency to grow away from home the poms
is cut off. This plant is on its own roots, is, as
a matter of course, planted in good soil, and
receives occasional liberal mulchings, and a
bucket or two of liquid manure to help it along.
Its fortunate owner says he will never prune
another Rose, but will let a few more alone
with the view to bearing the one first named
company.

A year or two ago I had a line of 100 or so of
plants of Madame Lacharme left unsold. They
were freely grown, and furnished with several
shoots each. I always make a point of leaving
some Roses unpruned to produce early flowers,
and I left this row unpruned. The result was
that as soon as the young shoots had made some
progress the weight of the flowers bore the
stems to the ground, and we had Madame
Lacharme in large numbers, and of finer quality
than I ever saw them before or since ; in fact,
the row was literally a bed of white Roses 4 feet
wide by 30 yards or 40 yards long. This Rose
under the ordinary course of tsjill nation does

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

430

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 8, 1884.

not produce blooms freely or of (inequality, but
by thismethod they were good and in abundance.
It appeared, in fact, as though the more work
the plants had to do the better they did it,
and my idea is that large, very large numbers
of Roses die annually from inanition; their
working area is so much reduced by hard prun¬
ing, the reciprocity of root and branch is dis¬
turbed and collapse ensues. No; what is
wanted in gardens are healthier and more freely
grown Roses ; not little beds of carved images
of former plants, but natural, let alone, rampant
bushes, producing beautiful flowers in quantity.
If their heavy flower-laden shoots lop over and
flounder upon the green turf, never mind, be
sure that the stamina of the plant is equal to it
all, and that the more real vigour, the more
free healthy growth you get this season, the
better the foundation for a bigger display in the
season to come ; and, if you would have Roses
in abundance to enjoy and to give away, avoid
too much pruning. T. S.

FRUIT.

Under cropping fruit trees.— One of
the greatest drawbacks to fruit culture, as far
as I have seen in gardens, is the too common
practice of starving the roots by planting other
crops in close proximity to the stems, so that
the roots of two crops are competing for the
nourishment that ought to go solely to the
benefit of the trees ; the result is that the
surface roots suffer, or die outright, while the
large roots strike down into the subsoil,
producing cankered wood, and specked and
comparatively worthless fruit. It is only by
providing food near the surface that the roots
can bo kept actively at work, where the
beneficial effects of sun and air can reach them.
It is sheer waste of wall space to plant good
sorts of fruit trees in well-prepared borders,
and then plant Cauliflowers, Broccoli, &c., so
close up to them that the trees are soon starved
into a weakly debilitated condition ; anyone can
prove the correctness of what I state by
cropping one portion of a fruit border and
allowing the other portion to remain uncropped,
for I need hardly say that the frequent digging
alone where vegetable crops follow each other
in quick succession soon destroys the fibrous
roots near the surface, and the strong roots of
vegetable crops will starve the tender fibres of
choicer kinds of fruit trees. In the open garden it
is the same with both dwarf and standard trees,
which, as a rule, get space enough when first
planted, but being intercropped with bush fruits,
such as Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries, &c.,
soon get overcrowded both at the top and under¬
ground, the roots of the bush fruits sucking out
every particle of nutriment from the soil,
and we frequently find Strawberries planted
between the rows of bush fruits, or three dis¬
tinct crops on the soil at one time. It is folly
to expect fine specimens of any kind of fruit
from trees treated in this fashion. If fruit trees
are not worth the ground they cover with their
branches they must be very poor indeed ; and
if anyone who has such as are crowded with
other crops close up to the stems will try the
plan of clearing away for a space of 5 or 6 feet
from the stem, and on this place a good cover¬
ing of manure, they will soon find a marked
improvement in their trees. As regards the
best system to pursue there can be no ques¬
tion but that the plan of growing each crop by
itself is far the best. Let standard trees be
relegated to the orchard, on Grass—that is the
best plan by far. The dwarf bush and pyra¬
mid trees should be planted from 10 to 12 feet
apart, and the soil kept solely for their support.
Half the number thus treated will yield far ]
more fruit than double or treble their number
crowded to death. Bush fruits planted 6 or
8 feet apart is the way to get fine fruit and
plenty of it, for, like vines, they are naturally
so fruitful that they produce far more young
fruits than they can bring to perfection unless
the roots are well supplied with food in the
shape of rich top-dressings of manure. And
finally, Strawberries should be planted in beds
by themselves, for they are gross feeding sub¬
jects, and produce crops just in proportion to
the amount of food within reach of their roots.
—James Groom, Gosport .

Pruning bush fruits.— I like to prune these
late because I find that-Joy pruning llate in the

Digitized byXjjOOvlC

season I can make more certain of having a good
crop of fruit. I find by experience that by
pruning early I am not at all certain of a crop in
consequence of the birds, unless I go to a good
deal of trouble. Last season I pruned some of
our Gooseberries and Currants early, and the
consequence was that the birds pecked out the
remaining buds so much that we scarcely had
any leaves on our bushes, to say nothing about
fruit; this happened, too, in spite of liming the
bushes two or three times after they had been
pruned ; whereas bushes that I left unpruned
until February had a great many more buds on
them, for the simple reason that the birds had
far more wood to peck the buds from in the
case of the bushes left unpruned.—G. G. I.

Musch-Mugch Apricot.— In order to
show the distinct character of this Apricot, I
may mention that in the middle of November
the leaves were quite green, while those of the
Moor Park variety growing on the same wall
were nearly all down. Not only do the leaves
of the Musch-Musch long retain their hold, but
the young shoots continue also to grow late, and
frost has not hitherto hurt them. This variety
is an excellent bearer, but not so good in flavour
as the Moor Park.—J. C. B.

Wintering Strawberries in pots.—
Many expedients for protecting pot Strawberries
are resorted to, such as stacking them in ashes,
placing them in cold frames, &c. I have tried
many different methods, but I feel sure that
more harm than good is done by placing them
under glass too soon. They do best out-of-
doors set on a good coal ash foundation, pro¬
vided the pots are plunged to their rims in
leaves, tan, ashes, or Cocoa-nut fibre. The
Strawberry is hardy enough to stand our
winters without any protection in the open
ground, and in pots they only require to be
placed closely together and the intervals be¬
tween them packed with some non-conducting
material to render them perfectly safe ; in fact,
in this way the foliage will be cleaner and the
roots healthier than those of plants wintered
under glass. When wintered in this way it is
surprising how much more readily they respond
to heat when introduced for forcing than they
otherwise would do. The exposure to the
winter’s cold induces perfect rest at the proper
season, and glass structures can be employed
for other purposes.—J. G. H.

White Grapes. —If a good white Grape as
a companion to Black Hamburgh is wanted, by
all means plant Mrs. Pearson, which I am
confident will prove most satisfactory in an airy
vinery. In moist heat this Grape rusts, and
has not a handsome appearance, but grown in
a cool, dry house we find no white Grape, Eng¬
lish-raised or of foreign birth, to compare with
it. It is a very good grower and free bearer ;
the bunches are large and handsome. The
berries are medium-sized and of high Frontig-
nan flavour when first ripe, but after hanging a
couple of months they become so very sugary as
to lose some of the Frontignan flavour. The
colour is a clear rich amber, and the skin
sufficiently thick to make the Grape a good
keeper. Altogether, we find it a most excel¬
lent and useful variety, which should be grown
largely.—E. H. W.

Pot Strawberries. —A custom exists of
removing an inch or so of the top soil from
Strawberries in pots for the purpose of replacing
it with fresh compost. I could never see the
advantage of this practice, which simply
amounts to destroying or mutilating some of the
roots that others may be better fed. Common
sense would tell us that food may be given in a
different fashion from this ; and as a fact if a
top-dressing of soot is given during the autumn,
the plants will get all the nourishment they need
until they are fully in growth.—J. C. B.

12164.— Planting black Currant trees.
—The situation seems in every way good. The
new ground should be well dug up and manured,
and kept tolerably moist. If it is a light dry
soil, top-dressinga will be necessary to secure
fine fruit. The best kind is Black Naples.
Plant in rows, each bush 6 feet apart each way,
and so that in adjoining rows the bushes are not
immediately opposite each other. Procure some
healthy young DU9hes, and they will soon get
into bearing. If the new plantation is clear of
the Apple trees, a single row of vegetables might
be taken between the rows of bushes for two
seasons. In pruning keep the bushes well fur¬

nished with young wood, as it is on the branches
of the previous year that the crop is borne, and
unless those exceed a foot in length they should
be untouched. As the bushes get older some of
the old wood should bo cut out yearly.—J. P.,
Lancashire .

-This fruit likes a rich, deep soil. If the ground »

not all trenched it will be necessary to trench up a space
enclosed in a circle 3 feet wide for each bush, and mix
some decayed manure with it. They should be 6 feet
apart. The new kind name Black Champion, promises to
be one of the best of all black Currants. Lee’s Proliflc used
to be considered the best; the fruit is of an agreeable
flavour, it is also a very free-bearing variety. Ogden’s
Black i9 also a good kind. These three varieties will be
sufficient to plant.—J. D. E.

Lord Suffleld v. Keswick Codlin Apples.— These
are about equal os regards bearing properties, and it is veiy
rarely cither fails to produce a fair crop. Of the two, how¬
ever, Lord SutHeld is the most useful. It is ready for use
as soon as the Keswick, the fruits are larger, and they keep
good for a much longer time —C.

12168.—Heaviest bunch of Grapes —I believe the
heaviest bunch of Grapes on record, grown in the United
Kingdom, is a bunch of Trebbiano, weighing 26 lb 4 oz.,
exhibited at the International Horticultural Exhibition,
held in Edinburgh, in 1845, by Mr. Curror, Eskbank.—
L. C. K.

-The heaviest bunch of Grapes on record was grown

in the garden of Mr. .Jardine Arkleton, Langholm, N.B.
It was exhibited in Edinburgh on September 15th, 1875,
and weighed 25 lb. 15 oz. —J. I). E.

12170. — Diseased Grapes. —They are evidently
afflicted by what gardeners term “shanking." The cause of
it is often a mystery. All that can be done is to entice the
roots near the surface by surface dressings. Give water
abundantly up to the time the fruit begins to colour. It
is very suggestive that out of-doors Grape9 never shank.
Lifting tho roots up near the surface will sometimes pre¬
vent it.—J. D. E.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

BEST MARKET PEAS.

I sometimes wonder why so few market growers
give a trial to new varieties of Peas. Probably
those who devote the greater part of their land to
the production of vegetables do try most of the
new sorts, but it is evident that the majority of
those who only devote a few fields to Peas,
Runner Beans, Brussels Sprouts, Turnips, and
Potatoes seldom change their selection of
varieties. This I have had frequent oppor¬
tunities of observing. They sow certain sorts,
principally because they can be purchased at a
comparatively cheap rate per bushel—a “ penny-
wise-and-pound-foolish ” policy. Except in
seasons of scarcity there is no demand for inferior
sorts, and many tons of such produce have almost
to be given away ; only superior samples find
purchasers at remunerative prices. My advice,
therefore, is to grow' sorts that are attractive in
appearance and of good quality ; they will
seldom prove unprofitable. Having friends market
gardeners, I always make it my business to
direct their attention to any new Peas I may
have on trial, and which are apparently well
adapted for field culture. In this manner they
have been enabled to select some really good
sorts, and by sowing a few quarts of these have
thoroughly tested them, and also succeeded in
saving a considerable quantity of seed, much of
which they have sold at a high price.

The earliest Pea still most largely grown
by market gardeners is Sangster’s Improved
No. 1 ; but Caractacus, which somewhat
resembles it, if grown under precisely similar
conditions, proves at least a week earlier, and
produces quite as heavy a crop of rather larger
and well-filled pods. A difference of a week may
not Beem much, but it often does mean a very
large difference in the value of the crop. Strange
to say, Caractacus is not nearly so good aR
William I. in a private sheltered garden, but
in the open fields, where the soil is heavy auu
cold, it is the better of the two. In some
districts where the soil is lighter and warim r
William I. will be found to be the best earlv
Pea, and the size and colour of the well-fillc d
pods render it a favourite with buyers. Laxton s
Earliest of All with us is really the earliest or
all, but I am afraid it will not be found^ to be
sufficiently robust for field culture. Kentish
Invicta is a fine early sort, but the seed rota
badly in the ground, and the same may be said
of the newer wrinkled seeded Day’s Sunrise.
Daniel O’Rourke, Taber’s Perfection, Dickson's
First and Best, Dillestone’s First Crop, Ring¬
leader, and other similarly small-podded old
sorts are not worth growing. Amongst

Second early varieties Advancer has been
tried, but it lacks robustness, and the rather
later Laxtou’sHSupreme still finds moEt favour

URBANA-CHAMPA1GN

Nov. 8, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

43'

with many growers. It is a heavy cropper,
aud the pods are of good colour and fill well. I
cannot, however, speak highly of its quality.
To succeed this Fortyfold is grown, and this
proves very profitable, though it makes rather
too much haulm in some places. Hair’s Dwarf
Mammoth is most excellent for second early and
also very late crops, but this good old wrinkled
sort is not nearly so much grown in either
private gardens or fields as it deserves to bo.
As a

Main' crop Pea, Dr.McLean is much the best.
We have had it good frequently, but the crops
of fine large-filled pods seen in open fields far
surpassed anything -we have yet achieved. It is
rather too pale green in colour, but the quality
surprises the townspeople, and no difficulty is ex¬
perienced in selling this kind. Gladiator, a
variety first obtained this season, with us proved
a heavier cropper than the Doctor, but was
inferior in quality, and on the whole I am
doubtful if it will replace Dr. McLean under
field culture. John Bull is a failure, but
Evolution, another of Mr. Laxton's Peas, possess¬
ing a much stronger constitution, sturdy and
branching, and very prolific, the pods being
long, green, and well filled, is certain to find
favour with market growers. For my own part
I should like it better if more sweet and tender
when cooked. Sharpe’s Invincible is a failure,
but G. F. Wilson is worthy of a trial, being
certainly preferable to the old Blue Scimetar,
still extensively grown. For

Late crops, Yorkshire Hero is extensively
grown, and is still one of the best. This variety
answers to the name of Veitch’s Perfection
among gardeners, and in most seed establish¬
ments I believe the two sorts como out of the
same bag, the only difference being in the price
charged. Omega I consider a failure in most
private gardens, and it does not please the
market growers. Sturdy I believe will prove
a valuable late sort, as it is very robust,
branching, and prolific ; the pods arc perhaps
rather too small, but they are closely packed
with delicious Peas. It will be seen that I have
omitted several dwarf Borts much grown in
private gardens, but all have been tried, and
those not possessing good constitutions, or which
produce thick, fleshy pods, are discarded.
Sensational pods, as regards size, are useless in
the market ; there, Peas, not pods, are required.

W. I.

Tomato growing. — Would “Jersey
Grower ” give further particulars of the seem¬
ingly incredible statements made by him?
What are the best kinds grown, and what heat
he keeps up in winter by the number of pipes
stated, what distance the plants are apart, and
are they kept to single stems, or otherwise ?
My results are half-hundredweight of fruit
borne on one half span-roof Cucumber house,
23 feet by 10 feet, rafters about 7 feet long,
variety large red. It will be generally admitted
that Grape growing is out of the field compared
with Tomato growing. I believe Cucumbers
pay equally with Tomatoes. — Amateur
Grower.

- “Jersey Gardener,” (Oct, 18) writes to

prove that Tomato growing is so very profitable,
and sums up by saying “what will our large
growers say to this ?” I, as a small one, who
have grown four houses full for the last three
years, one of which is almost the fellow of the one
he mentions, confess that I have not grown half
the weight named, nor have I realised the high
price. I think your correspondent has counted
his chickens before they are hatched. The house
he refers to would contain about 2,000 square
feet. Supposing that he cut two tons out of
such a house, this would be about 2.^ lb. to
every square foot. If you get a bunch of
4 or 5 fruit will they average £ lb. each ? 1

know that you can get Tomatoes weighing £ lb.
and 1 lb. each, but they are single or double,
not in bunches of four to six. You must, then, to
get two tons, have six or seven fruit to every square
foot all over the house. Can anyone say
they have done this ? Some of us find great diffi¬
culty in setting the blossoms during the winter
and early spring months. I confess I do, with all
care as regards giving air, and I fail to set the
blossoms. 1 have eome to the conclusion that
they require a large amount of light to enable
them to do so. Your cat"re&pondent, I slp^ose,
resides in Jersey, withlUs^^eJIea e^y]yearly

every day, winter and spring ; no doubt this is
one cause of the success of the Jersey gardeners.
Well, then, let us see what by fair calculation we
we can make of his house of Tomatoes. Four fruit
to each foot, averaging h lb. each, would be
4,000 1b. at Sd. per lb., £133. I do not think
£10 sufficient for fuel, more likely £15 or more,
say £15 ; for water, £2; other expenses, £60; £56
profit. I for one should be glad to have realised
this, but I have not by a long way. I consider
8d. per lb. a fair average price, as the price soon
comes down when they first come to market. I
am conscious that I may not be the most success¬
ful of growers, but should like to heav what
other have to say about this matter, and also
if they are successful in getting the fruit to
set in the winter, as I have heard several com¬
plain of the same difficulty. — A London
Grower.

12173. — Storing Beetroot. — The crop
should be very carefully dug up, and the roots
preserved the whole length, and two or three
inches of the stalks left, after the leaves have
been twisted off by hand. Unless this is done
the roots will bleed, and much of the flavour
and rich colouring lost. Store in a cellar or
hothouse, in pyramid-shaped heaps, covered
with straw, over which, if necessary, throw a
little soil to exclude frost. Leaving the roots
in the ground is the best plan, as the proper
flavour and colour are preserved better than
when lifted and stored. Frost is the danger.
A thick covering of straw and soil may protect
them. Try both ways.—J. P., Lancashire .

12176.—Vegetable Marrows bitter.—“ G. C. C. ”
must have £ot seed of art interior kind of Gourd or Pump¬
kin. If the seed was all ri*ht the bitterness was probably
produced by slow growth, occasioned by drought or want
of rich manure. Rapid, unchecked growth are essential to
the successful cultivation of this vegetable.—J. P., Lanca¬
shire.

12122.—Lettuce for light soil.— For autumn sow¬
ing Hicks's Hardy White Cos is best. For summer,
Continuity (Daniels’) and All the Year Round.—J. D. E.

INDOOR PLANTS.

SWEET SCENTED DAPHNE.

(Indica odorata.)

Of all greenhouse plants this is one of the
sweetest, and its lovely perfume is so pervading
that a plant of it in bloom will scent a large
house. Its dull Lilac flowers are, however, not
showy, but any deficiency in that way is fully
made up by their fragrance and substance. They
are so thick and stout that they may be
mounted singly and worked up in bouquets, to
which a few pips impart a most grateful per¬
fume. Without any forcing, too, or artificial
heat, the plants may be had in bloom in Feb¬
ruary, and they will last at least two months in
the greatest perfection.

Propagation. —There arc several ways of
propagating this Daphne, the one most generally
pursued being by means of cuttings; these
should be made of the half ripe wood which is,
if possible, taken off with the heel, as in that
way they strike better than when cut at a joint.
In order to get them to root freely, it is neces¬
sary to put in the pots, which should be of
small size, plenty of drainage, then fill them
with sharp sandy soil, and in this the cuttings
ought to be dibbled one in a pot, and mado very
firm by pressing the soil tightly round them.
They should then be watered through a fine-
rosed pot and placed in a propagating box where
they can be subjected to a good brisk heat, or
covered with a bell-glass and set on a light
shady Bhelf in a stove. In either position they
will soon callus and root, when they may have
the glass tilted or air given, and after a few
days they will stand without flagging. They
may then be potted into pots a size or so larger,
the best soil to use for them beiDg a mixture of
fibry loam and peat, with just sufficient sand
to keep it porous. In this Daphnes flourish,
and they will also do well in peat or loam sepa¬
rately, according to their quality, but which¬
ever is used must have grit added to it, or
the roots will not remain long in a healthy
condition.

Grafting. —Another mode of increasing this
Daphne is by grafting, and the most suitable
stocks for it are the Spurge Laurel and the
Mezereon, some preferring the one and some the
other, but as the first is the more common and
easily obtained through being found wild in
many woods, that is the one most generally

used. For grafting, small young plants are
best, and these should be dug up and potted,
and then placed in heat for a week or a fort¬
night, so as to give them a start, when they
will be ready for grafting. This may be done
in several ways, the easiest perhaps being wedge
grafting, which is carried out by beheading the
Btock, leaving 2 inches or 3 inches of the stem
and making a slit in the top. The grafts should
then be prepared by taking off pieces of the
sweet Daphne similar to those used for cuttings,
but without the heel, and trimming the ends
by slicing off a portion of each side so as to
form them into a wedge, when they are ready
for inserting in the slit made in the top of tho
stock, where they should bo tied securely by
the aid of a piece of raffia or soft bass, and then
waxed over by using grafting wax made and
sold for the purpose. This keeps out the air
till the parts heal and a union is effected, when it
may be taken carefully off and tho ligatures re¬
moved to allow for the stock and scion swelling,
which both soon do when growth commences,
and root action is active in forcing up the sap.
After grafting, close, moist heat is necessary for
a time, but plants should not be subjected to it
long, as it weakens them, and as soon as spring
commences they will be found to do best in a
frame or greenhouse, where they get only a
little warmth while making their young shoots,
and when growth is complete, it is a good plan
to plunge them out abroad where they can be
exposed to the sun, which ripens up the wood
and makes them flower more freely than they
do when kept under glass.

Planting out. —Daphnes for cutting should
be planted out in a pit or frame from which the
lights can be removed, as with such an increased
amount of root room and more liberty than
they get in pots they grow much freer and bear
the loss of the shoots better than they do under
less liberal treatment, when they often die
back after being cut instead of breaking freely
again, as most other plants do. When planted
out, as well as in pots, drainage is all-important,
and the bed in which they are to go should have a
layer of broken bricks under, and on them a foot
of parings from the roadside, or sharp turfy
loam, in which the plants are sure to do well.
After flowering, these should be kept well
syringed and without much air till they break,
when they may have the lights tilted and by
the middle of June withdrawn for the summer.
The only insects that affects Daphnes are red
spider, but under the treatment referred to
above they are seldom much trouble, as the
washings the leaves get from rains and the ex¬
posure to night dews keep them clean and free
from such pests ; but should they assail them, a
good sousing from the syringe or garden engine
will carry them off. S. D.

EASILY GROWN WINTER FLOWERS.
Having only fruit houses, plant cultivation,
in the strict sense of that term, is not really re¬
quired at our hands, but a regular succession of
cut flowers and small plants for furnishing vases
in rooms is required, and it has occurred to me
that a few notes as to how and what we
manage to get under such conditions during tho
winter months might possibly prove suggestive
to others that may be in like circumstances.

Pelargoniums — double flowered kinds in
particular—are most useful for small vases and
baskets to stand in windows and as ent flowers
for bouquet making, as they stand a long time
without withering; these we strike from cuttings
in April and May ; they are grown in the open
air, with the pots plunged in ashes the whole of
the summer, 5-inch and 6-inch pots being the
largest used. Plenty of manure water is neces¬
sary to keep the plants in vigorous health, and
this is continued, of course in a modified form,
all the winter. Our Strawberry house is gay
with them, until Strawberry forcing must begin
in earnest; then they will be moved into late
vineries and Peach houses till these must be
closed; they are then relegated to cold pits, and
have then to take their chance, as by this time
very little more is required of them.

Primulas and Cinerarias. —These we sow
early in April with a view o* getting them into
flower into mid-winter, as tney are useless to
us as soon as the. London season begins. They
have the ordinary frame culture during the
summer, and at'this season are placed on shelves
in Peach houses and vineries that are at rest.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

432

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Nov. 8, 1884.

Primula* enjoy more warmth than Cinerarias,
and with careful watering we manage to keep
some of these iu vineries that are still being
slightly fired to prevent condensation of
moisture on the fruit.

Poinsbttlas. —These are a very accommo¬
dating class of plants, as they do well at this
season in either a moist or a dry atmosphere.
These also we are obliged to restrict as to root
room, no larger thau 7-inch pots being used.
They are propagated from eyes in May and
June, and as soon as struck are potted singly,
and afforded a slight bottom heat in a pit till
the roots have taken a good hold of the soil ;
they are then gradually inured to colder treat¬
ment, a cold pit being their place till there is
danger from frost, when they are placed in Pine
stoves and Melon houses, where they are now
well repaying all the shifting about that our
lack of plant houses entails.

Euphorbia jacquini.kflora —I know of no
flower at once so rich in colour, profuse of
bloom, and so effective when cut either for
flower glasses or for dress ornamentation as
this, and I may add, or so easy to grow, from
cuttings stuck in a Pine bed in June, and grown
during the summer in any available place where
the temperature does not recede below 50 degs.
As soon as Melon growing is over, the shoots
are trained to the Melon trellis, and from the
middle of December onwards we can cut and
come again till the place is again needed for
Melons. I may add that young plants flower
best; hence we throw the old plants away as
soon as our new stock is rooted.

Bouvardias. —Though we have never yet
done these plants to our satisfaction, owing to
want of the requisite structures, yet we do
manage to get a considerable quantity of cut
flowers all through the winter months; our
plants are grown in cold frames during the
summer, not planted out, but in pots, as being the
more convenient mode of culture, because of the
shifting about the plants have to undergo. We
find them do best in but moderate-sized pots,
in soil of a peat nature, say half peat and one-
half loam and the other leaf-soil, potted firmly,
but not hard, and with plenty of drainage, as
they soon turn sickly if they get anything like
water-logged. They flower well all through
the winter on ledges and shelves in the Pine
pits and the earliest forced vineries.

Eucharis Lilies. —As a rule we get good
supplies of these flowers the greater part of the
winter, from large pots of bulb* that are never
moved from out of the fruiting Pine pit, where
they occupy a half-shaded position that would
be useless for Pines, and yet they seldom fail to
flower three and more often four times in the
year, this result being due to our disregard of
the resting theory that some put into practice
to get one lot of flowers in a twelvemonth. The
plants are not plunged, but simply stand on the
Pine bed, where there is always a bottom heat
of about75deg8.,so thatTodegs. would be about
the temperature of the soil in the pots. The
only difference in treatment we ever make is
that as soon as flowering is over less water is
applied for a month or so, but they are never
allowed to get really dry, so that this can hardly
be termed resting, though there can be no doubt
but that to this partial withholding of water,
and particularly of manure water, is due the
frequent flowering of the plants.

Forcing plants. —In addition to the plants
named above, our early vineries, Fig, and Peach
houses afford accommodation for forcing sundry
kinds of plants, such as Spiraea japonica, Deutzia
gracilis, Rhododendrons, Andromeda*, Azaleas,
Lily of the Valley, Hyacinths, and Tulips, and
thus, with scheming and contriving and abund¬
ance of hard work, wo usually manage to pre¬
vent dissatisfaction by having plenty of winter
flowers. VV. VVildsmith.

When should Lilium auratum be re¬
potted ?—The above question was answered
in last week’s issue of Gardening by “ J.C. B.”
and “ L. D.,” but a9 I have, after some experi¬
ence on the old lines, followed a somewhat
different regime with this Lily, both as regards
the time of repotting and the compost, used
with most satisfactory results, I have been
induced to give your readers my mode of treat¬
ment should any care to try it. As soon as the
blooms are past I water with great care, rather
sparingly, to assist in the ripening ofjthe bulbs
and steins. When t|is ia/mooLi]

ng of the b

pull

out the stems and store the bulbs away in
a cool, dry place, the soil about them
being in a dry state, thus securing for them at
least two months’ rest. Then they are brought
out, put into a cold frame, and so much water
given to them a* will moisten the soil. This
incites root action, and shortly after this the
new flower stein appears. At this stage I shake
them out from the old compost and repot them
into the new. As to my modus operandi in this
piece of work, I first mix the compost and pre¬
pare the pots with thoroughly efficient drainage,
then shake out the bulbs carefully, removing
the old compost with the one hand, holding the
bulb with the other, so as to prevent any injury
to the newly-made roots. With the compost I
use this is very easily done, being free in its
nature and already softened with moisure. I
select the largerbulbs for potting alone in 8 inch
or 10 inch pots according to size, and the smaller
for potting in pairs, and proceed to place
them in the pots, filling the latter to within an
inch or thereby of the rim, and covering the
bulbs and the stem now appearing with about
half-an inch of the compost. I do not press the
soil firmly into the pot, but lay it in loosely
about the bulbs, and then give the pot a gentle
knock or two on the potting bench, and the
operation is finished. The compost I use is
made up follows Two thirds of light fibre
loam and well decayed leaf-mould in equal
parts, the remaining third being wood charcoal
and sharp sand. After potting, instead of
putting them back into the cold frame I place
them in a greenhouse, with a little fire heat, and
give them no water for a few days. With the
change from a cold to a genial tempera¬
ture, and the free and fresh compost into
which they have been placed, I find that they
invariably make strong and rapid growth.
When the stems are above the soil, say, 3 or 4
inches, the roots have almost rambled through
their new pastures, and they are then removed
into a place where air is admitted freely, or the
stems soon become a prey to the green fly if
kept in the heated greenhouse, and this, like all
the Lily species, will not thrive in a close
artificially-heated atmosphere. I water more
and more freely as they advance in growth,
and when the pots are well filled with roots, I
mix a little fresh cow dung with the water
until their blooms commence to open. Under
this treatment I have them in bloom from the
beginning of August till the middle of October
in succession, and all that could be desired in
splendour.—F. D. P.

Greenhouse Rhododendrons.— In the
temperature of a warm greenhouse, or perhaps
more correctly speaking an intermediate houso,
where at the present time the thermometer
ranges between 55 degs. and 65 degs., these
Rhododendrons are flowering freely, and that,
too, not only in the case of large plants, but also
in that of plants a few inches high. Amongst
them the most continuous bloomers are Duchess
of Edinburgh (bright crimson) and PrincesB
Royal (pale pink), but all possess the perpetual-
flowering property to a certain extent. The only
insect pests that infest them are thrips, aud they
seldom make their appearance unless the plants
are kept too hot and dry, as, for instance, where
fire heat is employed during the summer, w hen
it does more harm than good. Although these
tube-flowered kinds have sprung from the white
R. jasminiflorum and the orange R. javanicum,
intercrossed with each other, there is now a great
variety in colour amongst them, some of the most
distinct being Princess Royal, one of the first
hybrids raised in this class, but still among the
best of the pink-flowering kinds ; Duchess of
Teck, light buff-yellow, shaded with rose;
Taylori, bright pink, with the outside of the tube
white ; Duchess of Edinburgh, bright orange-
crimson, very Bliowy ; Princess Alexandra, blush-
white ; Duchess of Connaught, in a general way
like Duchess of Edinburgh, but, though equally
bright, of quite a different shade of crimson ;
Pirnc Beauty, deeper in colour than Princess
Royal, and larger in the blossoms. To these
hybrids must be added the typical Rhododendron
jasminiflorum, which produces pure white
flowers at all seasons, and is still one of the best
of all tender Rhododendrons.— Alpha.

Begonia insignia. —As a winter flowerer
this is unsurpassed by any other Begonia as
regards elegance of growth and attractiveness of
bloom. It is a beautiful sight to see in one mass
numbers of well-grown specimens of this

( Begonia, each plant the embodiment of elegance
and literally studded with clusters of deep rosy-
pink blossoms. The plants are best grown in
6 inch and 4Linch pots—capital sizes for decora¬
tive purposes. The blossoms of this Begonia are
particularly lovely under artificial light; there¬
fore it is one of the best plants to grow for room
decoration. Well developed specimens have a
beautiful effect in vases, and they last a con¬
siderable time in perfection even in rooms. It
may not be generally known that there is a
spurious B. insignia in gardens, a much inferior
plant to the genuine species.

12152.— Culture of Orassulas.— The cul¬
ture of these, which are nowadays frequently
called Kalosanthes, does not present any great
difficulty to have a frame or cool greenhouse.
Briefly stated, these Crassulas require all the
light and sun they can get, and this is the kind
of plant which a small, comparatively inexperi¬
enced grower is likely to best succeed with. The
only fault about them is that they are apt to
become very lanky, displaying a considerable
amount of bare, ugly stem. To avoid this, the
best way is to take off cuttings as soon as the
plants have flowered—say the beginning or
middle of August. There are generally some
small shoots that have not bloomed, and these
are the best for the purpose. Take them
off about 3 inches in length and with a
sharp knife cut away the bottom leaves for
about an inch. Well drain a 2\-inch pot,
fill to within 1 \ inches of the rim with sandy
loam and a little leaf-soil, and insert fine
cuttings in it, one in the middle, round the
edge, or, if so many cuttings are not procurable,
a smaller pot may be used. Stand the pots in a
sunny, airy position, watering only when the
sand becomes dry, and the cuttings will be well
rooted by the autumn. Keep quite cool through
the winter, and in April shift into a size larger
pot, using sandy loam. The most important
point in the culture of Crassulas is the water¬
ing ; the roots, like those of most succulents,
being impatient of stagnant moisture. The rule
should be to let the soil nearly dry out between
each watering, then there is no danger of their
suffering. Iu summer they will bloom, and
after flowering they may be cut back a little and
treated as before, shifting the following year.
They will last about three years and then may
be thrown away to make room for younger
ones.—J. C. B.

12155.—Platyloma rotundifolia. —This
is a cool house Fern, and, like its congener, the
bold, handsoine-lookiug P. falcata, is nearly
hardy. All that it requires is a cool, moist
atmosphere through the summer, with protec¬
tion against hard frosts, to grow it to perfection.
Like all Ferns, it does not require much pot
room, doing best when tolerably root bound.
It will thrive for years in a 4^-inch pot if
liberally supplied with water in hot weather,
and, not being very robust of growth, a 6-inch
pot is large enough at anv time. Loam and
peat in equal parts, with plenty of white sand,
form a good compost, potting firmly, but not
hard, and taking care that the drainage is good.
Give plenty of air during the growing time with
shade from hot sun, keep the soil first nicely
moist, and do not wet the foliage often.—J. C. B.

12137.— Preserving old Pelargoniums. — Your
plants should be placedin a moderately warm greenhouse
instead of beitu placed in the dirk, which would cause their
leaves to turn yellow. They do not require much water in
winter.—E. Marokrkson.

12142 — Wintering Fuchsias. — You may winter
Fuchsias in a cellar if they are sale from frost anil not too
damp. Let them get well matured m the wood before
placing them there.— E. Marukreson, Chesterfield.

1212.3.— Wintering plants in frames.— Amongst
your plants the follow ing will do best in frame: Calceolarias
(shrubby). Carnations, Picotees, Hydrangeas, Uan&itf,
Splraiat^ Chrysanthemum % and Auriculas.—E. Margkrk
sox, Chesterfield .

12151.— Pruning Oleanders.— The plants should be
cut dow’n in January or February. It is not well to cut
lower than near the baso of lust year’s wood. If cut down
to the old wood the plant will not start so well. The points
of the young growths may be propagated as cuttings.—
J. D. E.

1217S.—Camellias.— They ought not to be syringed
at all this time of the year. The time when this is bene¬
ficial is when the plants are mailing their growths in
summer. Scale must be removed by swUhiug it off with
a sponge and soft ssap and water.—J. D. E.

12179.—Dividing Fern roots.— The best time to
divide them is in the spring, just before they start Into
growth. Some species of Ferns do not take kindly to divl.
sion ; others are not injured at all by It. When asking
questions of this kind the species or variety ought to be

st&feld.^civ». ■ UrlLLFNOlb -
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

I

J

Nov. 8, 1884]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

TREES AND SHRUBS.

WHITE-FLOWERED BROOM (CYTISUS).
When looking through the collection of trees
and shrubs at Grasmere, Byfleet, in May last,
we came across one of the most beautiful little
dwarf shrubs we have seen for a long time. It
was the pure white-flowered variety of CytiBus
purpureus, a shrub not uncommon in gardens,
but rarely seen in its true character, inasmuch
as it is generally grafted on a broomstick-like
>tock a yard or to high ; whereas its natural
habit of growth is prostrate, the roots sending
out shoots in all directions. The elegant growth
of this little Broom is well shown in the accom¬
panying illustration. Besides this white
kind, there is likewise a variety with
rose-coloured flowers, named floreroseu,
which would seem to be somewhat rare,
as one seldom meets with it.

There are other named varieties
of C. purpureas, such as incar¬
nates, ratisboneusis, superhus.
aud versicolor, but the differ¬
ences existing amonght
these are not very per¬
ceptible. The peculiar
prostrate habit of the
Cytisus here repre¬
sented renders it
desirable for po-
sit-ona which
other shrubs
would not be

enjoy os much sun as can be got in our climate.
The variety here figured may be readily pro¬
pagated by means of seeds, as well as by off-
shoots, which, if layered, root freely. There
are numerous other species of Cytisus of dwarf
growth, but few are worth much attention. Of

ridge, and there should bo pipes enough to
secure a temperature of from (t‘> to 70 degs.
at night in winter. The soil should be turfy
loam, three parts, and old hot-bed manure, one
part, with some sand and crushed charcoal to

Floweringsi-ray of the white variety of
Cytifiis |>'irpmeus. Iirawn in May
at (Jrasincre, Bytlret.

course the White Broom (C. alhus) is indis¬
pensable, as is likewise the pretty C. nigricuus,
which, however, is not so much known as it
deserves to be. W. (J.

The Strawberry tree (Arbutus Unedo).
—The winters of three or four years ago made
fail havoc with this shrub in many places, but
. where it was not killed outright it is recovering
[ rapidly, and, iu common with those which in
favoured spots were unharmed, it is in many places
now iu bloom, its drooping clusters of white
flowers or later on large rugose fruits being alike
pretty. As regards beauty of flowers, how’ever,
the common kind is surpassed by the variety
called rubra, which when in flower is a grand
object.— Alpha.

12174. —Planting large Rhododendrons. -They

may be removed when very larire a* safely -mall plants
They may also I* remo\rd with perfect safety in Novem¬
ber. Michael Wa’erer is the richest sow-Kt crimson kind,
A lound hole should l»e dux out, 3 feit wide and 2 feet
deep; (111 it up with a compost of two part* jwat and
cue pat t nf loan). If it is a I a rye bu.-h, 4 or 5 feet hi^h hv
oa much aero**, the hole may have to hv widi r, but it need
not 1m* more thau 2 feet deep - J. 1>. E.

12175.— Arundo conspicua and Hollies.— The
flratnnined may be removed and pluited now. There is
no way to haatt-n the irrowth >>f Hollies except by planting
them in rich soil and keeping them well watered in diy
weather in summer,—J. l). K.

Stable for ; such, for instance, as a large rock
brden, in which its long, slender branches
unging over the face of the rock would haveau
utremely pretty effect. Both Cy tisus purpu-
Mi and its varieties teem to like a light, sandy
nil, and, being of South F^ropwaLfcay

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from paye 41 '1 )

Miscellaneous Fruits.

I WILL close these chapters on fruit forcing with
a brief reference to a few fruits not generally
grown, hut which 1 have found valuable addi¬
tions to the dessert. Whatever w'e may say or
do, there is a demaud for novelty iu all things,
and the wise man, instead of ignoring this de¬
mand, endeavours to meet and supply it.

The Banana (Musa Cavkndishii).

I suppose uo one on tasting his first Tomato
or Bmana went into ecstacies over it ; but if
one perseveres, the taste grows until it is
possible he may desire never to be without
these luxuries. The cultivation of the Banana
is of the easiest imaginable kind, and may lie
summed up in three words — 44 Heat and
moisture.' 1 The dwarf species, Muea Caven-
dishii, is best adapted for moderate sized
establishments. They may either be planted
out in a pit, supplied with bottom heat, or be
grown in pots, and the pots plunged in bottom
heat. In either case a good deal of top room
will be required, as the leaves are large and
spreading. The house for Bananas should not
be less than from 14 feet to 10 feet high to the

make it porous. If grown in pots, they may be
ranged along the centre of au ordinary stove,
and the remainder of the house devoted to
foliage or flowering stove plants. As Boon os a
plant has reached its full size, the long, droop¬
ing spathe of flowera is thrust out from the
centre, and, as the flowers open, and set,
and afterwards wither, the fruit begins
to swell, so that the first open flowers have set,
and the fruits are swelling rapidly, before the
last flowers in the cluster have expanded; in
fact, it is hardly worth while to allow all the
flow’ers to set. When a sufficient number to
form a good cluster lias opened and set, the
remainder may be cut off. During the time the
fruit is swelling frequent waterings with liquid
manure should be given. The fruits ripen in
succession, and luay be gathered as they ripen
by r plucking them off, leaviug the rem tinder to
finish growth.

Ph*h* aoation is very easy and simple. A»
soon as the plant reaches its full development,
it commences to throw’ out offsets or suckers
from the bottom, which may be removed with
roots, and potted singly, growing on in a warm
house, with plenty of moisture. A strong sucker
will grow into a fruiting plant, if well done, in
twelve months to eighteen months.

The Guava (Pmidium cattleianum).

The Guavas are evergreen shrubs of the
Myrtle family. About twenty species have been
introduced during the last two centuries from
various parts of the world, chiefly from the
West Indies and South America, though two,
one black and the other yellow fruited, come from
China. For the most part, the Guavas are Btove
shrubs, but P. cattleiauum is one of the hardiest,
and may be grown in a w'arin greenhouse, w here
the night temperature does not exceed 7>0 from
fire heat. If planted out in a bed of loam
and peat it grows rapidly and will speedily
cover a large tpace. When grown for its fruit
alone it does best trained to wires near the
glass. It flowers early io June very freely, the
flowers beiDg white, tpringing from short foot¬
stalks in the axils of the leaves. The Guava
requires no more care than the Orange or
Myrtle. When in flower a dryer atmosphere
should be maintained till the fruits are set,
when the syriDge should be used freely, as thrips
are sometimes troublesome, as they are very
fond of the Myrtle family. The brown scale will
give trouble if it effects a lodgment. The fruit
ripens from August onw’ards through the autumn
in succession for several months, and has an
agreeable taste, the flavour being unlike all
other fruits. The fruits vary in size, the largest
approaching the size of a Plum, but some are
much smaller, especially when tbo tree is bear¬
ing a heavy crop. Liquid manure may be given
freely w’hen the fruits are swelling. They may
l>e propagated by cuttings, and layers, and seeds.
The species named above is the kind used in the
manufacture of the Guava jelly of commerce.
It is very easily cultivated, and not only is it a
handsome shrub growing some 20 feet high, but
its fruit furnishes a nieo change for the dessert,
and when it ripens too fast for that purpose it

may be conversed into jelly, INTO 15 AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

434

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 8, 1884.

Passion Fruit (Passiflora edulis).

This succeeds well in a warm, light house. I
have grown it in a conservatory, and, though
it bore freely enough, the fruit did not ripen
well, and the rinds were so thick there was little
room left for pulp. A stove with a night tem¬
perature of 60 degs. to 65 degs. in winter is the
proper place to get thin-skinned fruit. The
plants may occupy a large pot or tub, but they
do best planted out in a border in loam and peat
in equal parts. The main stem should be led
up into the roof, and, when there, permitted all
the freedom possible or consistent with the
welfare of other plants which may be growing
beneath or near. Sometimes it is necessary to
fertilise the flowers artificially, but usually in
a well-ventilated house in summer the agency
of insects and the currents of air effect this.
It is propagated from cuttings of the young
wood, when getting firm in summer, in sandy
peat, and plunged in bottom heat. When the
fruits begin to put on the dark purple tint,
which denotes they are ripening, they are fit to
gather for preserving, which should be done
whole in sugar. They make an excellent dish
in this way, and they are aleo very good when
they hang till quite ripe. I consider the fruit
of Passiflora edulis, as a dessert fruit, to be
superior to many things served up.

Cape Gooseberry (Physalis editlis).

This is not generally grown, though its cul¬
ture is easy ; and it makes a nice dish occa¬
sionally. If a small house can be given up to
it, it is best planted out, and treated somewhat
like the Tomato— i.e ., trained up near the glass,
and the roots confined within a small bed or pit
to prevent too rampant growth. Cuttings of
the young shoots root quickly at any season ;
and if strong plants are planted in a low,
span-roofed house or pit in January, a supply of
fruit may be gathered all the summer and
autumn. Liquid manure should be given as
soon as the plants come into bearing. Turfy
loam slightly enriched forms the best compost.
If a house cannot be given up to it, the plants
may be shifted on into 10-inch pots and be
placed in a light house near the glass. As
regards temperature the Physalis is very
accommodating. It will succeed in a warm
house, or when the summer advances and the
weather becomes warm and settled, it may be
planted out at the foot of a south w’all. The
fruit in appearance (except in colour) resembles
its near relative, the winter Cherry. The style
of growth, however, is different, as the latter
is a dwarf plant, renewing itself from its base
annually. The fruit of the winter Cherry is of
a scarlet colour, but the Cape Gooseberry is a
pale yellow. Cuttings produce the best plants,
but it may be raised from seeds provided the
seeds are new and good. The fruits above-
named are all of easy culture, and will be ex¬
ceedingly useful wherever a good dessert is
required.

Packing Fruit.

Grapes. —The chief requisite in packing ripe,
and, in fact, all kinds of fruit, is stillness—
immobility. They must not shake about. If
Grapes are much rubbed it is a sure sign that
they have not been packed tight enough. I
prefer boxes to pack Grapes in. Market growers
sometimes use baskets, but in supplying the
needs of a private family, it may be hundreds
of miles away, boxes are best, and they should
l>e made in different sizes, so as just to hold the
quantity we wish to send—one, two, or more
dishes—though it is not well to send more than
10 or 12 pounds in one box. The depth of
the boxes should be proportioned to the size of
the bunches of Grapes ; a box 6 inches to 8 inches
deep will have depth enough. The box should
have a sheet of cotton wadding placed in the
bottom, on this should be laid a sheet of thin
cap paper. The box should then be taken into
the vinery, and one end be tilted up a little by
placing a 00 Bized pot or a block of wood under.
Begin to place the Grapes in the l:ox at the
lowest end first, they will then fall naturally
into the right position, and when the box is full
they will travel any distance without injury.
The stalks of the hunches will stand straight
up, and the pressure brought to bear by the
lid will tend still further to steady them.
Small boxes as well as large ones can be packed
in this way. The box should be labelled—
cafe The^p this wc|e wp.” And

‘ Grapes with cafe ^heej)
if Grapes are ceil ^ of l^iyjv

line fre¬

quently, a small gratuity to the guard of the train
will not be thrown away. Special care in any¬
thing has to be paid for or acknowledged in
some way.

Peaches

Are best wrapped in thin paper, each fruit
separately, and then wrapped in wadding and
packed tightly in sweet, clean Moss, a stock of
which should be gathered and stowed away in a
dry place on purpose for packing. Before using
the Moss place it on a clean mat on the floor
and beat it well with a stick. This will re¬
move all dirt and restore its elasticity.
Boxes for Peaches and Nectarines should
be about 8 inches deep to hold two
layers of fruit. Place a layer of the pre¬
pared Moss in the bottom of the box first, and
then a layer of Peaches, filling in the interstices
between the fruits with Moss. Then place
another layer of Moss and the second layer of
Peaches, filling the box up with Moss, packing
tightly, and fasten down the lid w'ith four
screws, cording the box so that there may be
something convenient to move the box by easily
and carefully. Peaches should always be
gathered for a journey two or three days before
they are ripe.

Pines and Melons

Should simply be wrapped in paper, and be
packed lightly with Moss. Figs are best
wrapped separately in vine leaves, and placed
on a layer of Moss, being covered in with vine
leaves and another layer of Moss on the top,
placing the fruits close together so that they fat
tightly and cannot move. Plums and Cherries
are best packed in green leaves, but in all cases
they must not move about. I have already
adverted to the packing of Strawberries, and
need not refer to it further than to say, when
the fruit has to be sent far, it is better to grow
only such kinds as will travel well, as some are
so soft it is almost impossible to get them to
their destination in good condition. Keen's
Seedling travels well, so does British Queen and
Sir Charles Napier. E. Hobday.

NOTES ON FLOWER SHOWS IN
GLASGOW.—II.

{Continued from page 416.)

Pansies.

These have been, time out of mind, a speci¬
ality with Scotsmen, and their culture has been
general with all classes, from the castle of the
rich nobles, with their train of gardeners, to
the humble cottage of the artisan, with its
lowly Kale-yard and choice corner, where the
shining eyes of the Pansies drew with mesmeric
power the bowed workman for a few minutes
every meal hour, and, maybe, for an hour cro
6 a.m., and for an hour ere sunset also during
midsummer. To that floral magnet on sunny
Sundays the eyes would wander off the book, as
he lay on the Grass, or sat on the home-made
summer seat after churcli time. If a special
bloom was out, a neighbour would be asked to
leave “Gray’s” or “Blair’s Sermons,’’and have a
uiet look at it, and give his word of commen-
ation ere entering upon some knotty discussion
anent Church and State. If a new variety, the
grower quietly chuckled his joy over the verdict,
saying, “Jamie, would you tak’ a cutting ?”
The visitor drily adding, “ O ay! Pate,

I’ll be like the hungry minister, when
the thrifty gude wife asked if he could tak’
an egg to breakfast, answered that he
ay took one, when he couldna get twa.”
Again, if a son or daughter from the city or out¬
lying farm had come to see the old folks at home
in the “ old hive,” certain were they to have a
walk round the flowers and pick a few for the
city home, or get the gem of the lot to show to
some judge on the way for comparison, Ac.
Perhaps we owe the modern show to the Pansy,
as the first I hear of took place in Falkirk many
years ago now, and, if I mistake not, one of the
first prizes came to Cathcart.

All honour, then, to these pioneers of Pansy
culture, long before Belgian or fancy Pansies
were dreamed of in Scotland. It was all the
so-called “ show ” varieties in those days,
and many a poor man, skilful and enthusiastic,
would pay a good price for a rare sort, and enter
the lists with the best, and, maybe, beat the
best gardeners, too, as I have seen done not so long
ago. By concentrating all their care and skill

on one or two things, these were grown in a style
which was impossible of attainment by a gardener,
whose attention was of necessity spread over a
larger area. In July last I stood a long while ere
getting near the prize stand, because of a knot of
keen-eyed florists, who were discussing in broad
Scotch the merits and demerits of the blooms.
Not a point escaped criticism, nor a beauty was
left “ to waste its sweetness on the desert air”
unappreciated, and he would have been a bold
policeman who would have told them to “ move
on.” The taste for Pansies is not much less,
therefore, and I am proud to think that, how¬
ever the upper classes may emulate the sons of
toil in their culture of this “ bonny gem,” yet,
with the long-headed, strong hearted, and
whole-souled sons of the people the further
development of this flower will depend, and be
safe in their hands, too. We hear a great deal
now of Pansy disease, wireworm at the roots,
Ac. The same trouble disturbed our floricul-
tural ancestors fifty years ago, I understand.
Perhaps not to the same extent, for Pansies
were not grown in such numbers then as now.
Very few then would plant out 500 or 1,000
plants, as is done nowadays. They had less of
them, and it was easier to work them better,
with trenching the soil, renewing it every year
or two, shading from hot sun, watering, Ac. To
grow Pansies well they should not be grown
always in the same beds. Change the site, and
if that is impossible dig out the soil a
spade deep, and put in old rotted turf, free
from wireworm or grub, and if the beds are
prepared in autumn all the better ; old manure
(cow is best) can be well dug in also. New
manure, especially if done in spring, is ruinous.
If the soil is a little stiff all the better, and if
on the cold side of the house or will, where
direct sunlight is avoided but diffused light is
plentiful, still better. The plans adopted to
preserve the plants are endless and peculiar to
a degree. One puts his faith in chemicals,
carbolic acid in a pail of water, dropping 10 or 15
drops of the acid and water twice a week over
the plants. Another uses burnt earth from a
“smother,” as it is called, and this is certainly
first-rate. Others change the site yearly, or
every two years, or incorporate new earth with
the old ; while never putting the plants into
beds where any bulbs have been for a year is a
help, as the wireworm abounds more or less in
Tulip beds, Crocus, Hyacinths, &c. For a time
raising new stock from seed was relied on, and
this yields strong plants, but this season I have
seen seedlings taken ere flowering. Besides,
seedlings give one good Pansy for a hundred
worthless ones, or “monkey-faced” sorts, a 3
we call them. Then cuttings are often taken
from diseased plants, and so fine kinds get
weakened, and “ go ” more readily.

To raise Pansies from seed requires room,
as a small packet of seed sown in a frame in
spring will yield hundreds of plants, and these
planted out 8 inches apart will occupy a large
bed, and though it is very interesting to watch
the opening buds, the good ones are very few
compared to the bad ones, so for the ordinary
grower it is best to stick to cuttings of the
best kinds. Take the young succulent shoots
(though flowering stems do well enough in a
strait) and see that the plants are free from
disease. Have a cold frame made up with
several inches of rough ashes in the bottom,
and then S or 9 inches or a foot of leaf-mould
and sand in which to put in the shoots in
.September. Dressing these is unnecessary as
they strike freely, and all the better not to
handle them too much, as thereby a squeeze
may be given to the soft stems that is injurious.
Insert them 2 or 3 inches in the sandy soil, and,
making a hole with the forefinger, put in the
cutting, and then press the earth all round it
with the thumbs and forefingers, so that it will
hold by the earth if you try to pull it gently
out again, for many are lost by being too lightly'
pressed in—“hung” simply by the neck—
whereas they should be held closely by the soil
from the neck to the heel. Three or four
inches apart is space enough, and with a good,
watering draw down the sash of your frame,
cover the glass with an old carpet or brown
paper or mats to exclude the light, and leave all
for a week. Then during October give a fresh
watering and take off the mats and give a little
nir now and again, and if red spider makes its
appearance give a- watering with soap-suds,]
which will clean the plant and strengthen thenj

Nov. 8, 1884.] UAUBEjVIMG ILL VSTRATi' D

too. During the winter give as much air as the
weather will allow, and take oft* the sash fre¬
quently, so as to prevent the “ drawing ” or
“ legging” of the plants, a?, short stubby Pansies
are better than long spindly ones. Little water,
if any at all, is needed till March, 'when by the
midclle of the month the sash should be re¬
moved night and day if weather is not severe,
and by April they will be hardened off so as to
plant out where, and in any figure desired. If
the beds for them be dug over and manured in
November, and get a dressing of nitrate of soda,
the safety of the Pansies is secured as nearly as
possible ; but too few take trouble like this, or,
though believing prevention to be better than cure,
in theory, take no practical means to do as well
as they know. Anybody can acquire know¬
ledge and believe it, too ; many can preach and
teach all wisdom of earth and heaven, but
it is only a very few indeed that act , carry
wise thought into living and life-giving
deed. Every Pansy grower has his “ fail-me-
never ” recipe, in theory at least, for saving his
plants. It is only one in a hundred that saves
them in a season of heat and drought. To those
in a Peat district a top-dressing of boggy Peat
between the rows will keep the roots cool,
and sings are not fond of it either. In a wet
season the slugs eat every bud almost, and if
not picked night and morning in the early
months of May and June, few perfect flowers
will be obtained. When large flowers for shows
are wanted, all early buds are nipped off until
the plants are robust enough to yield flowers
freely, and then only the best and strongest are
left on, for a fortnight before the show day. In
hot, sunny days, shades are put on, and in dull,
wet weather glass is put on them to keep the
blooms perfect. If any of the blooms are curled
and do not lie quite flat it is better to cut them
the night before the show, and, keeping the stalk
in water, lay a slight weight over the flower and
so press it gently over night to the perfect
round. Touching up the bloom with a dry
camel-hair pencil is practised also, so as to
get a velvet surface upon the dark seifs;
and many a competitor is dressing, as it
is called, his stand all the previous night.
To go out and cut at random, and compete with
opponents who take trouble like what I have
seen done, is simply to be beat. Given as good
stock to work on, the manner in which a stand
is dressed and exhibited will turn the difference.
As to the

Best Sorts to Grow.

No two judges agree upon the point. There is
a general lot of favourites, but every year these
are discarded for newer varieties, for many have
only “a local habitation and a name,” and never
get into the traders’ hands at all. This is so in
regard to the “ fancy ” section more than to the
“show ” varieties. The best flower at Glasgow
for two seasons has been “ Catherine Agnes ”
amongst fancies. In a few years this sort will
be as common as to be less considered by judges,
and newer sorts will rule the tables. Such is
fame even in flowers. A few years ago it was
Sir P. K. Murray, Lady Falmouth, &c. For
ordinary garden enjoyment the older sorts and
such as are robust in habit are far more
desirable, as Robert Cowan, Mrs. E. H. Wood,
or James Grieve. However, as names are so
often asked for in Gardening, I will give the
best for general cultivation, and then the names
of the prize lots as far as I can.

Show Paxsirs.— Dark seifs : Alexander Watt, Captain
Crombie, Count Bismarck, Cyprus, Dean’s Glen, Garry,
Lord Mmto, Mauve Queen, Rev. J. Morrison, Sunny Park
Rival, Rev. J. Dombrain, the last a very flno blue self.
White : Miss White, Mrs. Goodall, Silverlight, Snow¬
drop, Mrs. Dobbie. Mrs. Turnbull. Yellow seifs: Dr.
Ma-ters George McMillan, William Crochart, Zama, George
Rudd, Gomer. White grounds: Captain Spiers,' Jeanie
Grieve, Lavinia. Bessie Me Aslan. Mrs. Arthur, Vanduara,
Jessie Footo, Miss Baird. Yellow grounds : Baillie
Cochrane. Defoe, D. Mcllutchison, Inspector. Matthew
Pollock. Robert Bums, Robert MoKelvie. Sir F. Roberts
David Dalglish.

Fancy Pansibs.— Hecla, Angus McLeod, Baillie Good¬
en, Catherine Agnes, Countess of Strathmore, George
Hanghorn, James Grieve. Jane Adair Martin, J. B. Dowme,
Udy Falmouth, L. V. Heathcote, Miss Bell. Miss McNutt,
Hrs Birkmyre. Mrs. Crawley, Mrs. E. H. Wood, Mrs
Telton. Mrs. Jamieson, Mr. John Stewart, Mrs. Scott-
Fiutnmer. Mrs. W. Clayton Hume, Ringleader, Robert
'rwao. Sir P. K. Murray, Thomas Grainger, William
lelville, William Cuthbertson, David Wallace.

(>ne of the prire lota in the show Pansies had Dwid
Wcohn. T. Lawson, Mrs. Dobbie. Miss Ritchie. Artemis.
Jillian Robin. Sir William Collins. Mrs. J. Wallace,
farquis of Lothian. Alexander Wntt, 11. A. Hawkins
George McMillan, Miss M. Ead?, Miss Ross, Dr. Living-
•one, Thomas Ritchie, &c.

Digitized by

Of all the exhibitors for some years Mr.
Sutherland, Lcnzie, N.B., has taken a very
regular place in the prize lists, and though I
never have had the pleasure of seeing his
nurseries and how he grows his Pansies, yet
J many a half-hour have I taken to go over his
blooms, and to him and Mr. Storrie, Mr. Wm.
Stewart, and the Pansy growers of Kilbarchan,
Ardrossan, G&lston, and Newmilns, lovers of
this flower are deeply indebted. Even as late as
the September show fine blooms were to he
seen, and I noted amoDgst fancies in Mr.
Sutherland’s stands the following as, in my
opinion, the very best this season :—

William Cutherbcrtson. Catherine Agnes, May Tait, Mrs.
William Stewart, Bob Montgomery, Craigforth, General
Grant, James Gardiner, Luck’s All, Miss Bliss, William
McIntosh, Evelyn Bruce, Mrs. Findlay, E M. Dalglish,
Mrs. Russell, Mrs. Jamieson, Maggie Edgar, Mrs. John
Downie, John Gold, Mrs. Storrie, Jam*‘s Grey, John
Ste\va?t, Mrs. Duncan, Rhoda Peters. Mrs. Barrie, Mrs.
Sutherland, Peggy Hay, Mrs Howard, &c.

Anyone having the above can safely go to a
show for the best twenty-four fancy Pansies.

Among the priza fancy Pansies, of twelve
only, were the following: —

Evelyn Bruce, Mrs. Barrie, Catherine Agnes, William
Hair, William McIntosh, Earl of Bcaconsficld, Earl of
Dumfries Mrs. Jamieson, May Tait, Monarch, Ringleader
Sir P. K. Murray, &c.

I will give readers of Gardening as many
names as they will care for next year at planting
time.

Carnations, Picotees, and Pinks.

These were in great force, hut I took no notes
of them particularly, as they are a class of
flowers demanding a great deal of time, space,
&c., beyond what most amateurs can give them.
The blooms of Admiral Curzon, Rose of Staple-
ford, Faleonbridge, Mayor of Nottingham,
Squire Trow, Clipper, Dan Godfrey, James
Cheetham, Apollo, Lady Ely, &c., among Car¬
nations were magnificent. I do not know
whether there is the same progressive develop¬
ment in these as in Pansies. In looking
over Robert JSweet’s “Florists’ Guide,” pub¬
lished in 1827, there are some plates of flowers
(in Carnations) which cannot he equalled
nowadays as far as I can judge—for instance,
Franklins Queen of Hearts, Ives’ Prince
Leopold, Pardoe’s Ace of Trumps, &c.—
which cannot be in cultivation, or surely they
would be seen nowadays, as the colours, size,
and smoothness of edge are very fine, if the old
coloured plates can be trusted. In Pinks, again,
Modesty, Mrs. Bruce, Bertram, Elaine, Lady
Golightly, and Derby Day seem to surpass those
figured in Robert Sweet’s guide. The Picotees
—Bertie, Lady Partington, Mary, Zerlina,
Beauty of Plumstead, Princess Alice, &c.—were
magnificent, and if I had space certainly a bed
of Picotees would be grown, as the delicacy of
these flowers is not attained by anything else I
know of in the open border. The finest kinds
are very difficult to keep, as they yield little
“ grass,” and so cuttings or layers are hard to
obtain. Hence they are sold in pairs, one to
flower and another to cut for stock. Of Carna¬
tions, many sorts have not flowered at all this
year, while “grass” is more plentiful and stronger
than I ever saw it; but in a friend’s garden old
plants flowered magnificently.

Herbaceous Plants.

At the July show these were well dressed ;
but, taken as a lot, they were not of a uniform
excellence, as we had the very fine Dictamnus
rubra, shown along with the old single white
Campanula, and a single Potentilla, carefully
made up into a bunch, as if it was an annual,
and not a spike of border herbaceous at all.
Anchusa italica was dressed the same way, and
looked very pretty with its fine blue Forget-me-
Not-looking flowers. The double wdiite Lychnis
vespertina was another fine thing, not at all
common in gardens, as it cannot be split up
readily, and does not strike freely from cuttings,
and sometimes dies off entirely, after growing
for years. Perhaps my old friend, Mr. Wm.
NeiLson’s, method may help the spread of it—
viz., let the plant creep on the ground, and
over the joints of the stems lay sand, and peg
down, and it roots at once, as it is like a Straw¬
berry in habit, when not tied up, as it usually
is, to keep it tidy-looking ; but this injures the
propagation of it. Perhaps the finest Delphinium
at the show was a little rosette-like variety,
named Delight. I do not see it in auy
catalogue; but it is always shown at Glas¬

gow by the Campsie exhibitors, who have
carried . off the prizes of recent years.
Coreopsis laneeolata w as also well grown and
well dressed too, annual like, in a bunch. The
Sea Holly, Eryngium amethyatinum was much
admired on account of the curiously Thistle-liko
flow er and silvery blue colour. This is a real
true hardy sort, growing with me very freely
year after year, whereas the Coreopsis dies off
in hard winters, it is said (for last winter was
so mild as to be no criterion at all), and must
he propagated by cuttings kept in a frame. The
fine Gaillardia grandiflora needs to be cared for
in the same way, hut seems more difficult to
keep, as it has died in my frame two years
running. ^ I saw a bed of the G. Lorenziana this
year at Kirn, raised from seed and sown under
glass, and w’ith slight heat, and it was very
showy—orange, yellow, and red. The Lilium
candidum was shown with an immense head of
flowers, perhaps the very finest thing in the
show as a single specimen. Lilium longiflorum
was always very good, and the new L. Harrisi
I saw for the first time, longer in the trumpet,
and the white deeper in tone, but to casual
observers these two seemed very much alike.
The old yellow Centaurea v as shown, and not a
few took a note c f ias nowadays these fine old
herbaceous plants are becoming fashionable. At
the September show herbaceous plants were in
greater force, Liliums (auratum) tigrinum,
being well forward. A pot of auratum grown
by Mr. H. Waterston was the grandest sight
in Liliums ever seen at a Glasgow show. Mr.
Edgar with another in the amateurs’ class wa 9
very fine, and, taken together, these two ex¬
hibits were a centre for lovers of Lilies to croud
around all day. There are many varieties of
auratum, but the size of these blooms, breadth
of petals, and gold band was a treat to sec.
Harpalium rigidum and its double ally Helian-
thus multiflorus fl.-pl. were well grown, while
Lobelia cardinalis seemed to he generally’
favoured, as did also Statice latifolia, Aster
Amellus, &c. The finest plant of the lattu-
that I ever saw is in a lady’s garden here,
and is a sight worth a whole prize-stand itself.
Anemone Honorine Joubert is a lovely white
while it lasts, but soon tarnishes. When
Eucomis punctata is admitted, I wonder why
a grand thing like Disa grandiflora is not
seen at all. I had it in bloom for five weeks
in a pot on the window sill, and it was
perhaps the very finest flower I ever bloomed.
Another good thing, and quite hardy, the double
Tiger Lily, is not common at all, and it is time
a change should be made with the old variety
and the inevitable auratum. I got a bulb last
November of this Lily from R. Smith and Co.,
of Worcester, and it was very fine indeed, ami
a good contrast to the other sort. L. Szovitsi-
anum, L. dalmaticum, and Martagon album
punctatum bloomed with me very finely this
season. The latter is a lady amongst Liliums—
fairest of all. L. pardalinum, Humboldti, and
superbum did not flower. L. Thompsonianum
grew away all winter and kept green till spring,
when it left “ me lamenting ’* on the garden
walk. . L. Fortunei is still in flower, and
lancifolium roseum and album very fine indeed,
and this the middle of October. These and the
late Phloxes make the garden gay, and, though
the season .of flower shows is over, the herbaceous
garden “is never without a witness” of the
variety of Nature’s works, the beauty of form,
of colour, and of fragrance. A. Sweet.

Spent Hops as manure.— Hops which
have been used in brewing make, I find, a valu¬
able manure for pot plants when rotted down to
a kind of leaf-mould. The best way of keeping
them sweet is to put them in heaps out-of-doors ;
if stored under cover they get mouldy and are
of little use. but when exposed to the atmosphere
they quickly decompose and become fit for use.
For mixing with potting soil they appear to suit
almost any kind of plant that delights in a rich

S °rou8 materia], such as Pelargoniums, Fuchsias,
oleuses, and other rapid-growing plants. For
those who experience any difficulty in getting
good leaf-moukl this material forms a good sub¬
stitute. I know several town gardeners who
use spent .Hops freely both for potting and also
for enriching their flower beds and borders, and
their plants bloom well under such conditions.
I may also add that spent Hops produce a very
strong heat. They are, therefore, useful for

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

486

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 8, 1884.

propagating purposes or for forcing anything
that requires bottom-heat. I have used them
in frames for striking cuttings off rapidly ; also
tor starting Asparagus and Seakale into active
growth. If mixed with leaves andstablelitter the
result is a good manure for many garden purposes,
and in spring, when potting off small plants, pro¬
pagating, and Beed sowing, a good supply of
light, rich soil, is of the greatest importance. It
should, however, be stored in an open, airy
shed, as nothing is so conducive to successful
plant culture as having the soil for potting in
good friable condition.—J. G. H.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

121G0.— Comfrey for winter food. —The
prickly Comfrey may be kept for winter use.
When dried it makes a very fair substitute for
hay or Clover to mix with straw for chaff-cut¬
ting. It should be harvested before the year’s
growth is too old, anddried and stored like hay.

1 ts principal value, however, is as a green crop,
especially in a dry season, from its great yield,
and being a deep-rooted plant it is not readily
affected by drought, whilst several cuttings may
be made the same year.—J. P., Lancashire.

12158.— Gardening for profit. —In a gar¬
den of three acres, one acre being flower garden,
it would depend much upon the system pursued
whether the garden could be made profitable or
not, and a good deal would depend upon the
locality, whether it was in a district where the
produce could easily be disposed of. In some
places flowers would be more profitable than
vegetables. Those who grow vegetables for
market have to find out what can be sold to
bring the greatest profit, and they find that
what will be successful one season will not be so
the next. But there is not the least doubt that
a good garden of three acres would grow sufficient
to pay its working expenses, but it must be in
the hands of someone with a knowledge of
gardening.—J. D. E.

12163.— New Zealand seeds.— About
three years ago I received a packet of seeds
from the neighbourhood of Auckland, in the
northern island. Circumstances prevented my
trying them until this year, and early in March
I sowed the seed in shallow boxes, placing them
in gentle heat. All the seeds came up well, and
when sufficiently large to handle I potted off
into thumb pots, and thence into large pots, and
most have made fair growth. Some I have kept
in a cool greenhouse, others I have planted out,
but shall now repot for winter ; and I think if
“ .f. Jenkins ” will adopt this treatment, but sow
a month earlier, he will succeed.—J. P.,
Lancashire.

12140.—Heating greenhouse.—I have a
small greenhouse G feet by 5 feet. I have a small
stove built in one end. The face of the stove
is outside, so that the house is free from dust;
then with 5 feet of piping, which runs along
underneath the stage to the other end, and an
elbow and piping, the smoke is carried out at the
roof. By this simple contrivance I can keep my
house at a uniform heat of about 45 degs. to
50 degs. at a cost of about Gd. per week ; but
last winter was an unusually mild one. The
l>ottom shelf of the stage is 3 feet from the
ground, so I lay boards from the bottom shelf
to the back wall, which forms a second floor.
By this floor I check the dry heat that rises from
the hot pipes. I use house cinders, large and
small coal. I give 27s. per ton for my coal. If
“Tan Glen ” will try my plan I think it will
help him out of his difficulty.— J. Griffin,
Shutford.

12166. — Window gardening. — The
reason the Pelargoniums, &c., in south windows
do not flower satisfactorily is probably because
the free access of sun and light to the window
is in a great measure obstructed by the
proximity of buildings and trees ; and the fact
of Ferns and Grasses doing so well seems to
point to this being the case in the present
instance. It is surprising what may be done in
plant growing at a south window, but it is
necessary for success with flowering plants that
the light should be fairly free and unobstructed,
and not cut off by tall houses or trees, perhaps
w ithin 50 feet.—K., Southend.

12172.—Wire worm.—Thore is no way of getting rid

of this troubles' 'ine pepfcni gardens exoeptaby cat
killing it. Take slictiof l^telk^or

[by catching and
both, and

place them on tho ends of pointed sticks, bury them three
inches in the ground and examine them daily, destroying |
all tho worms that are found attached to them The piece
of stick will show where to find the baits.—J. D. E.

12094.— Lawn sand.—We have used Fowler’s lawn
sand on the lawn of a town garden. A pinch distributed
in centre and on the leaves of each weed causes it to
shrivel up in the course of a few hours, in fine weather.
Rain falling immediately would lessen the effect, if not do
away with it. The Grass around seems to grow darker
and stronger where the application has been.— Tona.

12177.—Gutting Willows.—November and December
are the months these are usually cut down.—J. D. E.

12138.— Repotting Ferns.— March or April is the
best time to repot Maiden-hair Ferns, they are then start¬
ing into fresh growth. They do not require to be kept pot-
bound.—E. Marorresox, Chesterfield.

12159.— Manure for herbaceous border.— Well
decayed stable manure should be evenly spread over the
border, and over the manure a thin layer of Cocoa-nut fibre
refuse, but very short mamire itself is not unsightly.—
J. D. E.

12153.— Planting Roses.— The best time to plant
Roses on their own roots is in November. If the plants are
in pots they may either be planted then or in the spring.—
J. 1). E.

Stanlnj Maples. —A perennial. “ The Treasury of
Botany," by Professor Lindlcy, is the best book of the kind

you ask for. It is, however, rather expensive.- J.

Going. —We do not know any maker of the candles named.

- General Ross. —We do not know of any special

pamphlet on the subject. - C. P.—We would commence

In spring. The pan mentioned will do very well.- Flox.

—Not at all uncommon in southern counties.

Names Of fruit.— J. Taylor. —Cox’s Orange Pippin.

- T. It. L .—Not known at Chiswick.- J. House. —1,

Blenheim Orange ; 2, Nonsuch ; 3, King of tho Pippins ; 4,

Not known.-if. T. S. —1, Cox’s Orange Pippin ; 2,

Ribston Pippin; 3, Cockle Pippin.- John Collins.—

Apple not known ; probably a local sort.-Others next

week.

Names Of plants.— Noniwn.—Loelia Perrini; Kpidcn-

druin evectum.-IF. Y. 1). — Asplenium Adiantum

nigrum.- J. C. Krrsham. —1, Gasteria verrucosa; 2,

Viburnum Opulus (Guelder Rose).- P. 1L —Loasa

lateritia.- South Deron.— Plumbigo Larpentrc and Litho-

spermum fruticosum.- Mrs. L.-We do not undertake

to name varieties of Chrysanthemums ; two of yours we

know—1 is Bob ; 3, Adrostus.- Hortus. —1, Davallia

Tyermani; 2, Specimen too small and imperfect tor identi¬
fication; 3, Onychiumjaponicum. T.E. V.— l.Onychium

japonicum; 2, Not a Fern, but a climbing stove plant,

Campeidium fllicifolium.- A. H. Farran. —1, Ipomopsis

clegans ; 2, Santolina incana; 8, Euonymus japonicus

aureo-maeulatus ; 4, Chrysanthemum coronarium.-

W. F.— Chesnut red Chrysanthemums; Julie Lagravcre,
George Gordon, Mons. Deveille, Garibaldi, Crimson King,
Le Negre.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.— All communications
for insertion should be c'early and concisely written on one
side of the paper only ami addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The. name and
address of the sender isrcfpiircd, in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answestd. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper Owing to the necessity of
Gardknino going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not jwssible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not answered
should be sent to us again.

Naming plants or fruit.— Four plants, fruits, or
ftovxrs only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens are sent. We do not uiidcrtake to
name varieties of florists * flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these, can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
name should always arcomjxniy (he parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
specimens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12208. — Chrysanthemums deteriorating. —
Could anyone explain the cause of the following incident?
Among my small collection of Chrysanthemums the white
Japanese Elaine used to be my best, but last year, of two
pots, one came out with erect, half-tubular petals, and one
did not come out at all. This year a cutting of the one
which came out last year is now in bloom, but is decidedly,
though somewhat imperfectly, incurved. The remainder
of my Chrysanthemums are, fortunately, more constant,
and are now making a lovely show. Among them are
Georgo Glenny, Mrs. Rundle, Diamond, Abbd Passaglia,
Julie Lagravcre. Those coming into bloom are Bronze
Dragon, Proque, King of Crimsons, Ethel, and Peter
the Great, &c. I heor of Chrysanthemums out at Christ¬
mas, but fear mine will be over long before, then as Ethel
and Bronze Dragon, both lato varieties, are showing
colour. How is this, and is there any means of altering it?
—Elaine.

12209.— Soil for Rhododendrons.— Not having
any peat soil, and the nature of the ground being sand
and gravel, what is the best substitute to put in in place
of the peat ?—E. W. C.

12210.—Lilacs In pots.—How do the London market
gardeners produce the beautiful white Lilacs in pots,
which they bring to Covent Garden Market in such abun¬
dance at Christmas?—A. M. X.

12211 —Artificial manure for vegetables —
What do you recommend for my kitchen garden ? It has
been heavily manured with stable and cow dung for
many years, but this year I am short of the same. What
quantity per acre of bone meal or ground hones, at 7s. per
cwt., mixed with superphosphate at 3s., or dissolved bones
at 5s. per cwt., may be used for vegetables?—F. T. P.

12212.—Yeast.—Will anyone tell me how to make
German or En Avant yeast?— Arabella.

12213— "Tortoise” slow combustion stove.—
Can anyone tell me how to make a stove of this descrip¬
tion burn for, say, ten hours without attention? 1 have a
No. 1 size in my greenhouse, butso far have not been able
to get it to burn all night. I have tried small coke, coke
and cinders, coke and small coal, and various degrees of
draught by leaving the damper more or less open, but in
all cases the fire has been quite out by the morning.—
Pengs.

12214.— Cape bulbs.—I received from the Cape in
April last a parcel of bulbs, comprising Gladiolus, “ Spes ”
(sic), Babiana, Ixia, Tritonia, Watson ia, Satynum,
Amaryllis Belladonna, Hsemantbus coccineus, Vallota
purpurea, &c. I planted them all in pots when received.
They came up well, but only the Ixia, Babiana, and
Tiitonia flowered fairly. The Satyrium have made a
miserable attempt at flowering. All have now died down
except the last-mentioned, and the AmaryPids, which are
in leaf. Will any correspondent kindly tell me when to
plant the bulbs which have died down, and w hat to do
with the others? I have a conservatory.—H. H.

12215— Shrub for hedge.— Wanted, advice as to
best shrub to plant so as to make a good hedge, 6 feet or
8 feet high, under shade and drip of young trees. If
possible evergreen.—E. W. C.

12216.— Lllium Harris!.— I should be glad if someone
would tell me how to treat Liiium Harrisi, what soil it
does best in, and should the bulbs be put into their
flowering pots at once, or put into small pots and shifted
on ? I do not know what size flowering bulbs should be.
The bulbs I have are not much larger than a good-sized
Walnut.— A Constant Reader.

12217.— Tea Roses in pots. —A few clear and simple
directions lor blooming Tea Roses in 8-inch pots, along
with Pelargoniums, in a greenhouse keptat 45 to 55 degs.,
would much oblige— Sunflower.

1221S.— Crocus bulbs —Is it customary for Crocus
bulbs, after having flowered for a few years, to get so
small as to cease flowering ? 1 have been told that by
careful eulture they will increase and flower year after
year. My experience is the opposite. Any information
on this would oblige—T. B.

12219.— Rose trees.— Will Rose trees bloom as well
the first year of planting os the second or third year ? I
have been told that Roses should not be moved for some
years after planting, if good blooms arc expected. Is this
so?—U pper Edmonton.

12220.— Budding Roses.— I should be glad if some
reader would detail the art of buddiug or grafting Roses.
—Amateur.

12221.— Planting Conifers.— Advice as to planting
Conifers and deciduous trees would oblige. Say how far
apart for a permanent ornamental plantation and distance
from walks. The trees I am putting in are eight or ten
years’ growth, and I do not wish to have to thin out again.

12222.—Roses of greenhouse wall.—Will any
reader kindly recommend three or four good Roses for
training against a greenhouse wall, also what time I should
plant them ?— J. Dugan.

12223.— Unfruitful Pear trees.— 1 have two Pear
trees, pyramid in shape, which bloom freely, yet fail to
bear any fruit. I have followed as far as I could the in¬
structions given in Gardening Illustrated. What can I
do with them now? They appear healthy, and I have

E inched them freely during the summer. Any advice will
o much appreciated.—U pper Edmonton.

12224.— Rolling cricket ground.— Would a steam
roller do any harm to a cricket ground, where it is rather
uneven, and, if not, would much good result? When is
the best time—after rain or a heavy frost ?—J. R. H.

12225.—Heating apparatus.—I have recently pur¬
chased a hot-water apparatus (heated by paraffin) called
tho “ Repellant,” but I find that the fumes emitted from
the chimney injure the plants. I am now having an iron
pipe 1.) inches in diameter made to fit on top of funnel
and by this means I hope to be able to carry the fumes out
of the house. This pipe will at the same time assist in
heating tho house. I shall feel extremely obliged if auy-
one who has tried this plan with success will tell me if* I
can hope to keep my plants through the winter. —
Apparatus.

12226.—Coil boilers —I have recently sold a small
greenhouse, which was heated by a coil boiler, in order to
erect a larger one. I intended heating with a coil boiler
again, but, whilst making enquiries about it, 1 was told a
coil having only a small bore soon corrodes, owing to tbe j
hard limey water, and then a disaster occurs. I was recom- j
mended to an independent boiler ; 1 have also read of *
Watson’s wedge-shaped boiler as being good. Can any oi •
your many practical readers speak as to experience of the
merits or demerits of either ? I shall bo most thankful for
information through Gardexino Illustrated. Economy
and cheapness are a consideration with mo, combined with
utility.— Anxious Enquirer.

12227.—Liiium auratum.— Will someone give me
full particulars as to treatment of home grown Liiium
auratum bulb for window culture from time of planting
till growing time again ?— Reader.

12228.—Annuals in Scotland.—I should like to
know how to grow successfully in Scotland a large
bed of yellow Sultan. Also the names oi the best annuals
of long flowering duration and the best perennial Grasses
for bouquets. Does Nicotiana do as a bedding-out plant ,
and when ought it to bo raised ?— Scotia.

12229.—Alocasias.—Will someone kindly inform me
the proper treatment of Alocasias through the winter,
also Dipladenias and Clerodendrons?—Ax OldSubscrim r_

12230.—Lily Of the Valley. -I have a large bed of
Lilies of the Valley. It has not been touched for many
years. Last year the flowers were very poor, and there
an Immense number of roots Can anyone tell me how¬
to treat the bed so as to get good flowering plants next
spring?—J. W. P.

12231.— Carpet bed.— I wish to form a “ carpet bod »'
of hardy plants or mosses. Will some reader of Gap 1
DP.Ntxo kindly inform me what kinds arc beat, when*
obtain them, and when to plant, and what quantity'
each will be-required? Bed 8 feet by-4 feci.—Jon

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Nov. 8, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

437

12232.— Cauliflowers clubbing 1 . —How can I pre¬
vent Cauliflowers, &c., from clubbing at the root while
youog^J A simple and effectual remedy required.—

12233.—Honesty seed.—Please oblige by stating the
time for the growing of the above-mentioned seed.—
Thos. Robinson.

12231.—Rose cuttings.—I have twelve in a 5-inch
pot, which appear to have struck ; also some other mixed
cutumrs—Geraniums, Fuchsias, &c—in pots in sandy soil.
Should I put them in separate pots now, or leave them
till next spring, and what kind of soil should I use? They
have been inserted three weeks. 1 have no greenhouse. —
A Adlaxt.

***85. — Cutting back Hydrangeas. — When
should I cut Hydrangeas down, and shift one that is root
bound into larger pot ?—A Adlaxt.

1223d.—Potting Rhododendrons.—When should
I shift some Rhododendrons into pots (also Ampelopsis)
that have been growing out-of-doors ?—A Adlant.

12237.—Figs on back walls.— Would Figs succeed
on the back walls of several large vineries, or is there
anything that would do better and yield a fairly profit¬
able crop, and be pretty free from insects, either flowers
or fruit ? Any information would greatly oblige.—H. S.

12233.-Tomatoes for profit.—Will "Jersey Gar¬
dener’’ on Tomato growing be kind enough to answer the
following questions : Which is the best sort for profit ?
What is the temperature he keeps them at in winter? At
what distance does he plant apart? Does ho syringe or
not ? Does he use much water ? How and what is his
way of training, stopping, Ac. ? Are cuttings or seedlings
the best ? Why is it better to plant in November than in
January ? Will lateral shoots on old plants bear as well as
young plants?—J. C.

12239.—Matricaria inodora.—Will some reader tell
me if Matricaria inodora is sufficiently hsrdv to stand
in the open ground all the winter, or should it be taken
up and protected ?—Enquirer.

. 122*0 -Soap-suds for vine border.—Is soap-suds
in which has been used washing soda a proper and good
application for a vine border and Chrysanthemums, it is
the 90da about which I am in doubt.—W ashing Soda.

12241.—Moving old vines.—I have several vineries.
The late house is planted with Black Hainburghs and other
early kinds, with stems nearly as thick as my wrist
Could I with safety remove these to another house in
order to plant the late house with lato varieties (the
borders arc outside); and what are the names of best
varieties for flavour and keeping combined ?—H. S.

12242. — Pyrethrum uliginosum. — What can I
do to make the centres of flowers of a very flue plant of
Py rethrum uliginosum come yellow? They are quite
green. Also cau anyone recommend a really good pure
white Michael mas Daisy of good branching form and
medium sized flowers blooming in September?—S cotia.

12243.—Liquid manure. — Would liquid manure
made from fowl or sheep droppings be rendered less effec¬
tive by being disinfected before being used ? I think a
reply to the above query will be of great service to many
especially those living in towns with limited gardens aiid
dwellings within a few feet all round them, who are there¬
fore afraid to go in for it.—H. F. Green.

12244.—Begonia Rex.—Can any one give me full
directions for growing Begonia Rex? The leaves of
mine look quite healthy when they first come out, but in
the course of a week or two brown spots appear like
iron mould, and this spreads all over each leaf till it withers
quite away. I have tried them in a damp-heated fernery’
and also in a cool greenhouse. Do they require much or
little water?—M rs. L—.

12245.—-Dwarf Nasturtiums.—I have read with
nterest the article in Gardening of October 11 on Tom
Thumb Nasturtiums. I got some seed of two different
kinds of Tom Thumb this year, but none came true All
turned out to be climbing plants ; and I have been told
since that to ensure havingdwarf Nasturtiums it is neces¬
sary to grow them from cuttings. i s this so ? If not.
where can the beat seed be got?—M. J. P.

1 224fl.— Cam panu la garganica. —The description
given in Gardsxino of 26th October of the flower foliage
and habit ef growth of this plant, appears to’tallv so
precisely with one that I have hitherto known as Cam-
p anul a fragilis, that I should like to be informed whether
g-argamca and fragilis are two names for one and the
same plant, or whether they represent two distinet
species?—B.

l®47. Covering Hyacinths, &c—I have a dark
dry cellar in which 1 place my Hyacinths and Tulips in
pots. Kindly state in Gardening whether it is necessary
to cover them with ashes.—J. J.

12248.—Itoses not opening.—I am trying to grow
a few H.P. dwarf Roses, and I find that several of them
do not open well, such as A. Colomb, E.Y. Teas, and
Malmauon, and several others. Will someone be kind
enough to give a little advice on the above?—A. C.

12249.-Learning Latin—I am a young gardener,
and am desirous of obtaining a knowledge of Latin which
I think would be of great practical use. I should like

i*? i e - fc > Ur8e for meto w hich

i* the beat book and is it necessary for mo to learn
krr&xnmar before l ean learn Latin to be of any use?
W otild a Latin-English dictionary be of any use ?_H. G. B

12259.—Book on Ferns.—I should be glad to know
the name of a book on foreign Ferns, enabling me to
re^gmse fromi illustrations and description some of the
iilTerent varieties.—V. S.

an <* petroleum—I am desirous
« know if there is any difference between paraffin and
- tznoleum. what is the difference, are both considered an
d, which is the most inflammable, and what does it
irnsrist of chemically ?-H. G. B., Be A.™ 1

l^52.-Fl° w ere for cutting.—Will some reader
ezMlly give me a list of flowers to grow in the open
to cut for sale ? I have tried Asters, Zinnias
larathua. Sweet Peas, &c but people say they are not
rxrf enough ; also something to cut for foliage, Forns
evoepted ?—Enquirer. 8 ’ ¥

qitii

Google

12253.— Bleaching Pampas Grass.— What is the
best way to dry and bleach Pampas Grass ?—M. A. E.

12254—Plants for centre of bed—I have two heds
of Agapanthus40 feet round, with Sunflowers in the centres,
and yellow Violas at the edges. I would like to change the
Sunflowers, and would be much obliged for suggestions
for centre plants that would go well with the blue Aga
panthus and yellow Violas.—K icitard.

12255.— Exterminating Comfrey.— An uncle of
mine, living near Worcester, has in his garden a very pro¬
lific weed designated as Comfrey, which he is desirous of
rooting out if possible. Ho has tried several country
remedies for weeds, but without avail. Could anyone
suggest a likely exterminator ?-W. T. Holland.

12250.— Scentless Mignonette— Early in spring I
planted a long border of Mignonette along the back walk
of my greenhouse. It grow healthy and well, and as far
as the size of flower and general appearance, could not be
beaten, but it had no smell whatever. I was much dis¬
appointed in this, as I expected that my greenhouse would
have a beautiful perfume. What is the cause ? Was it the
high temperature?— Mignonette.

12257— Plants for aquarium— Will someone kindly
give me the names of a few of the best plants suitable for
aquaria, and when procurable? What shall I do with
one of my fish which seems to be attacked with fungus at
the root of its bock, fin, and tail ? The size of my aquarium
is 29 inches long, 19 inches wide, 18 inches deep. I have
eleven fish from 4J inches to (J inches in length in it. Is
this too many for a tank this size?—A quaria.

POULTRY.

Milk for hens and chicks.— There is
nothing better for laying hens in the spring than
skim milk. Given fresh from the dairy every
day, the fowls need no other drink, and it sup¬
plies everything needed in the way of animal
food. It is said to be one of the best kinds of
diet for young chicks also, soon after they come
from the nest, to promote their health and rapid
growth. Indian meal, ground coarse and
scalded with milk, is a perfect feed for them.
As they grow older, Grass, Cabbage, or Onions
may be chopped fine and added to the daily
rations. A portion of the milk on dairy farms,
usually going tc the pig trough, may be diverted
to the chicken coop with great advantage.

Birds for stock.— In selecting birds to
breed from, you will get much handsomer
chickens if you select your birds for beauty of
form and trueness of plumage to the established
type of the breed rather than for their size. An
overgrown bird, says a contemporary, is seldom
as good a breeder as one of medium size, and
while the large one may get one or two larger
chickens than the others, the flock will usually
be the heaviest from the smaller bird. While
this is most marked in the case of the male, it
will be well to follow the same rule with the
female. A good form and erect carriage indi¬
cates a good constitution, and large size does
not; on the contrary, it often indicates a weak¬
ness in some point. Tho eame rules apply to
nearly all animals, as well as to poultry.

HOUSEHOLD.

Elderberry wine.— To a quart of berries
put two quarts of water ; bruise the berries.
Let it stand two or three days, and stir it very
often ; strain it off through a sieve. Then, to a
gallon of juice add four pounds of sugar when it
is nearly boiling, stirring all the time. When
the scum is taken off, add a peck of damsons to
eighteen gallons. Boil about ten minutes, strain,
and set it working with yeast, like beer. Let it
stand three days, then put into the cask. Add
a little brandy, if approved, when it has done
working.—E. M.

Gingerbeer plant. —What is the botanical name
and what the properties of a plant familiarly called the
Gintferboer plant? It appears to ferment in water, and
when finger and sugar are added make good gingerbeer •
but bofore adopting it in my house I should liko to know a
little more about it—II urslky.

"hTURSERY FOR SALE, Guernsey.—A rare
\ opportunity U offered to Florists and Gardeners, in the
«fin«*i th K We i U * knoWr, M a, 2 d weI! -connected Rohais Nursery!

* n\ m i le fro J n the harbour, in the island of
£^w™®P y ‘i' J 2 tab n 8h e e<i ovcr o0years, this nursery is well known
Lmf u d t 0 /- ts famo i“ and rare collection of Camellias
and Bulbs. It is now to be disposed of through the death of
its late owner, Mr. Bernard Willis. The nursery contains
g K°; d i, reR dence ’ witb acres of rare superior land, through
which runs a stream of fresh water. The whole is welMrud
out and stocked with trees, plants, shrubs, llowers as well m
a superior collection of Camellias. There are besides eight
conservatories, vineries, Camellia houses, and over 200 feet of
forcing frames and Camellia pits. The whole in good working
order The Sale will take plJme on the Premi!ses m. Wedne ®

(IffirERlFEL^olfeP at li 1, In -^ 0r P articulara apply to Mr.

Pta0,> Guerns<! * or to Mr. H.

'TIMBER TRADE.—WANTED, a CLERK

Z? thoroughly acquainted with every department of the
Timber Trade.—Particulars as to experience and situations
lSted m £ by a11 ap ?I icanta - w ^h age and salary ex!

ComhUl!°HC. * ° are ° f Sle88rs - Qeor * e «t"*t & c£ 30,

6s.

Over 150 extra fine Bulbs.

The cheapest and most liberal collection of

DUTCH FLOWER BULBS

Offered. Enough for any ordinary garden
Sent free on receipt of P.O. by

E. J. JARMAN,

THE PEOPLE’S SEEDSMAN,

Chard, Somerset.

_C atalogues sent Grat is on application.

NOTICE OF AWARDS.

GOLD, SILVER, AND BANKSIAN MEDALS.
Twenty-one First Prizes (besides fourty-four First-class and
Special Certificates) for

CROUPS OF HARDY CLEMATIS.

Choice sorts. Is., Is. 6<L, to 2s. 6d. each.

Standard Roses, 12s. dozen ; Dwarf Roses, Gs. dozen ; Fruit
Trees, Rhododendrons, Conifers, Evergreei aud Deciduous
Trees and Shrubs, Hardy Climbers, Forest Trees, &c..a'l grown
by thousands.

Descriptive priced Catalogue free on application to

GEORGE JACKMAN & SON,
_Woking Nurse ry, Surrey.

DObES ! ROSES I ROSES! — Best named

J-w varieties dwarf H.P my selection, 5s. per dozen;
purchasers selection, 6s. Splendidly rooted, either on own
roots or Manetti. 20,000 plants to select from. Cash with
Norts Pdcka * e free ~W. LOWE, Rose Grower, Beestou.

rjHEAP OFFER !—Land required for building7

* tLinies, Poplars, Sycamores, Chesnuta, and Elma,
freight stems and good beads, 8 to 10 feet, Is. each ; 10 to

12 feet. Is. 6d. each. ’

10 000 APPLES, PLUMS, PEARS, and

V.yy CHERRIES pplcndiil tree.,, all beet iorU
Standards, Is. each; Dwarf trained, 2s. 6d. each; Bush
trees. Is. each.

13 000 BLACK ancl RED CURRANTS,

. > „ kushy trees, Is. per doz. ; e xtra strong fruit-

mg trees, 2s. per doz Cash with order.

EVES & DA LTON, Ston y land Nurseries. Gravesend.

xw. loiyosotis syivatica) 6d. doz. Antirrhi¬

nums, Sweet Williams, double Canterbury Bells, 9<L dozen
choice strains, all free.-D. JONES, Binfl eld. Berks

HELEBRATED KERRY CAVE FERNS.-30

H.RLAT BARGAIN (owing to removal).—£3

r, worth Of fine Geraniums for 15a., ene year old, now in
beds Mrs. Pollock, Cloth of Gold, Crystal Palace Gem, etc.
In case. Sent on receipt of postal order—Address. ABO
Smith s Bookstall, Tulse Hill Station, Lo ndon. S.W.

rjINERARIA GIG ANTE UAL — T. Todman

Y and Son. Rose Park Nursery, Upper To

* —. -Jryai

2 dozen, 3s. tkL *

-Orders made payaU, w « a<

Too ting. By kind permis s ion of A. Heave r. Esq.

Tooting, offer the
'*■ it, llowers
... no equal.

. -dozen, 2a.;

>aid. Cash with order.

Per parcels post, pi_ __

kble to T. TODMAN & SON, Upper

100 ORNAMENTAL AND FLOWERING

£ , SHRUBS for 7s. 6d., carriage paid; height 9 inches
to o leet, to include Juniperus, Enonviuus Verneim.
Traversll, etc.—HENRY & CO,, uohv AmeraE ’Bucks

T APAGERIA ALBA, 7s. 6d. each; L. Rosea
u If-.6^each; Stophanotis Is. 9d.; Gardenia intermedia
Jasminum grandidorum Is. All fine plants*
clean and healthy. Maranta Mackoyana and
, r u V nB, .* I ? e l 8 .- each - Winter-blooming Begonias
four 1 b -3cL; Virginian Creeper. Veitchii. six Is. All carriage
paid—HENRY & CO., near Amersham, Bucks. “

A UR1CULAS.—Choice named Show and
a *^J pIue , va ™ties, from 9s 6d. per doz.; strong seedling

BEAUTIFUL IVIES, gold and silver vane-'

U naraed varieties for 2s. 6d.; Honeysuckles

WRirHT b t ne u ?“ d Cliaiber * 3 for Is.—H. $HEEL-
bridge HT ' ^ Cottage, New Street, Oldswinford, Stour-

GOOD BULBS, os. Each variety

separate and named. Suitable for the garden, win-
^jow box, or pots—viz., 8 Hyacinths in variety, 8 mixed
double, 8 mixed single, 8 Due Van Thol and 8 Parrot Tulins
16 large yellow, 16 blue. 16 white and 16 sf riped Crocus 8 Nar¬
cissus in variety 8 Daffodils, 16 Winter Aconites, 8 ArTemonS
8 Ranunculus, 8 Jonqiuls. 4 Triteleia, and 4 Scilln FW
orders secure the finest bulbs. If carriage paid, 6s 9d*
W 3«;.l or Quarter, as sample, Is. 9d—P O (> navable to
J. LE ITA. Secr etary, The Planta nd Bulb Co., Gravesend.

FLOWERS.—Special cheap offer.
^flowers-Harbiuger biocKl-rod, yellow, aud purple
Sweet Williams and Antirrhinums, nrst-class strain, and
ad ^ pef Brompton Stocks, gold-
Polyanthus, and yellow Alyssum, all 3s. 6d per 100
Double Clove-scented Pinks, in three varieties, 4s. Gd.^er 100
all very good plants, carriage paid.—JOHN NORFOLK*
Gardener, Wilburton Manor, Ely, Cambs. U ^ K ’

yiOLAS, VIOLAS !— Nothing can touch

th^m for spring and summer beds Strong plants
named, 8d. dozen, 4s. 100; Violets, splendid plants, correctly
, U rA V l0Zen ’ r?' ’tF 1 . 0 ?® Carnations, old purple, 4 Vor

Is., 2s. 6d. dozen ; Double Daisies, crimson, pink, or white 6d
dozen, 4s. 100; Sweet Williams, Lily of Valley Ac 6d dozen
3s,106, /ree.-W.and F. WHEELWRifilH FloS^old-

swinford, Stourbridge.

RS. GREENHOUSE

^ Plumbago oapensis

- COLLECriONr=nr

Jeasamiue (nice plants, measuring

\ (nice plants, measuring

from 10 to 15 inches in ength), 6 Primulas, 6 Cinerarias 6
^® r f baC( ^ )ua Calceolarias (sturdy plants from single pots), 12
\ARn i!ncarriage free, for 5 b -BER
NARD LOADER. Florist, Dorchester. Dorset.

C^ S ;;^L P ^A c E. r CRY8ANTHEMUM

W (4 ITEAn nJA th u nd Wrticutan, apply Mr.

w u. HE*d), Gartleu Superintendent, Crj-stal Palace.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 8, 1884.

ROSES. OWN ROOT ROSES. HIBERNIAN NATIVE DAFFODILS H* 2 K,« 5 £ sent post free by return. Interesting

M t * n . * ATT T%mT\Tn DAQFQ #••». And others in PTnat variator. Specially cheap offer for catalogues gratis C. KILMISTEK, Heeds man. No th S’rc-et,

12 HYBRID PERPETUAL8, I 6 CLIMBING ROSES, fast-

such as A. Oolomb, C. growing haruy varieties,
Lefebvre, D. Jarnain, La blooming in large clusters,
France, Magna Charta. E. admirably adapted for cut-
Y. Teas, 4c., 7s. 6d., carriage ting, suitable for any situa-
paid. tion, 3s 6d., car. paid.

12 OLD BLUSH CHINA, 12 FAIRY ROSES splendid

growing hardy varieties, cash. The following are offered for October and Novein- Brig hton. ■ --—-r-z-^--

blooming in large clusters, her planting in large quantities, carriage and post free. OPRING SNO Wr LAKES.—KesemDlesa Giant
admirably adapted for cut- 100. Kj Snowdrop, and qui e as early. Dozen 9d.; 50 2s. 9d. ; ICC 5s.

ting, suitable for any situa- Don Quixote, Wm. Baylor Hartland’s big Irish s. d. Winter Aconites, first dower of spring, 5) Is. 3d.; 100 2s. 3d.
tion, 3s 6d„ car. paid. form 0 # p r j DCeDg . one of‘the finest single trumpet Tritelia unitiora, beautiful blue and white edging plant, 50 2<

grand free-flowering variety,
alwayi in bloom, &s., car.
paid.

12 MONTHLY ROSES, 5s.

bushy plants, make beauti¬
ful beiLs, constantly in

form of Princeps, one of the finest single trumpet
Daffodils grown, per dozen, 3s. Gd. Quite distinct
from the Continental or Spanish Princeps.. ..25 0

These ought to be plauted 12 MONTHLY ROSES, for

bloom, should be planted Princeps In double form, rich orange yellow,
everywhere 3s 6d . car. paid. semi-doubie tube, very fine and distinct, per dozen,
- -- J ' r Is. 3d.

in preference to so many _ _

annuals; they aro con- winter and spring. Ihescaro and a much flmr flower than what is known as

stantly in bloom during moBt useful for early work, the English form, splendid for naturalising, a rich

summer and autumn, and yielding quantities of bloom orange shade per 1,000, 35s.5

give no trouble after plant- 6s., car. paid. TelamoniUS plenus, the true Hibernian Cottage

ing, 25 9s., car. paid. I Garden Monster Rose form, a splendid flower for

Thirty nnAPfl and Silver Cup cutting.10

First Prizes IIIIVp \ (value £5 5s ) TelamoniUS plenus, of England, the English
1334, for 48 varieties. double form, said to be the double of Major, line ^

100 extra strong Exhibition Roses, test that money can buy, TelamoniUS plenus, of Guernsey, dwarf and

forcing into bloom this TelamoniUS plenus, of Ireland, quite distinct,

winter and spring. These are
moBt useful for early work,
yielding quantities of bloom
6s., car. paid.

Thirty
First Prizes
1884,

ROSES

including all the leading varieties, 60s. ; 40 plants, 21s.; 12, 7s
Send for catalogue, or come and sec the plants.

HARKNESS & SONS,

The Grange Nurseries, Bedale, Yorks.

THE

Largest Rose Grounds in England

CRANSTON’S NURSERIES.

(Established 1785.)

very early double yellow bloom .

Vincent Lion, the Lig double Dutch Daffodil,
very like the English Telamonius, fine bulbs

Native chalice-shaped Daffodils, single
blooms of the Incomparabilis class, many Borts
mixed .

j. QPRING SNOWFLAKES.— Resembles a Giant

100. D Snowdrop, and qui - e as early. Dozen 9d.; 50 2s. 9d. ; ICO 54.
g. d. Winter Aconites, first flower of spring, 51 Is. 3d. ; ICO 2s. 3d.
Tritelia uniflora, beautiful blue and white edging plant, 50 2 a

100 3s. 6d.—Addr es s as above. _

5 o A NEMONE FULGENS, dazzling scarlet, doz.

11 Is. 6d.; 50 5s 6d.; 100 10s. The Bride, beautiful pure
white variety of the Biugle Poppy Anemones, per dozen 2s. 6d.
9 0 Gloire de Nantes, large rich violet flowers, incuived like the

finest Chrysanthemum, 6d. each. Stellata, the Purely Star
Anemone, mixed colours, dozen Is.; 50 3s. 6i.; 100 6a. 6d.
Anemone apeunina, one of the most beautiful alpine* la. 6d.
r n dozen; 50 5s. 6d.: 100 10s. Japonic* rosea and Honorioe
° u Jobeit, the beautiful pure white autumn Anemone, dozen 2a.
50 7s. 6d.; ICO 14s. 6d. Single Poppy Anemonea all scarlet,
or in mixed colours, a very fine strain, 50 2s. ; 100 3a 6d.—

0 0 Address as above. ____

pLAL)10LUS, THE BRIDE.—Extra tine roots

, n vT of this charming white summer-flowering variety, quite
0 u hardy, dozen 2s.; 50 7s. 6d.; 100 14s. 6d. BrunchlyensU, splen¬
did scarlet, very fine roots, 50 2 b. 9d.; 100 5 b ; 500 22a. 6d.

5 0 1,000 42s. Second-sized flowering root* offered in large

quantities at very low prices.—Address as above.

pHIONODOXA LUCILLE, lovely blue and

Lt white, flowers very early in spring, succeeds well in ordi¬
nary garden soil, dozen, Is. 6d. ; 50 5s 6d, ; 100 1 Gb. Grape
10 0 Hyacinths, mixed varieties. 501s. 6d.; 100 2s. 6d Scilla cam-

Irish Bntter and Eggs, double form of the

Incomparabilis class, very fine .7

French Native Tazetta Narcissus, very fine
and rare sorts, from south of France, blooms in

clusters.10

Biflorus, excellent for growing In grass, flowers

two to the stem and very sweet .3

Irish Mixture, all thea»>ove sorts included, 3s. 6d. to 7

HARTLAND’S

HOW BEADY,

Descriptive Catalogue 2,000

Old-Established Seed Warehouse, 24, Patrick rubbirinand .Strong plant s, 3s.; 25 aorta 5e.-Addro- as abov e

panulata, beautiful pale blue, flowering in May, 3a. 100
Ranunculus, fine mixed, 50 Is. 3d.; 100 2s. Prize strain, very
superior, 50 2s.; 100 3s. 6d. The well-known French strain
and Turban same price. Hyacinthus candicans, large whit-e
bells, stately habit, 6 d. ea ch.— Address as above ._

P EONIES, tine mixed, from a splendid collec¬
tion of white cream rose and crimson varieties. 9d. each ;
dozen 7s. 6d.; largo clumps. Pure white Clove Carnations,
extra stout plants from layers, Gd. each; dozen 5s. Choice
hardy perennials. pair each of twelve varieties named, no

nn.l nt rrtnLf t.1 »n3*1 • 25 KOrtsSfl. AllllreSS 08 abOTe .

tree.—J. buDLi

ROSES s T JSE.

FREE ON APPLICATION. $f,K3SiK?’

- OARNATlt

CRANSTON’S NURSERY AND SEED O ano exhibit
COMPANY (Limited),

KING’S ACRE, HEREFO RD._ ££°!3? l “o£rt

ICDQCV ROSE TREES okv'eiTal

J Clio Cl FRUIT TREES G ardens, Banipt

Street, CORK. vr^

2 nnn CHRYSANTHEMUMS for autumn J-j :

j blooming, good plants, 8s., 10s., 12s. per dozen, “r*;

Packages charged as low as possible. PauBies for autumn
planting, English show and fancy. Seedlings, 26 for Is. 6d.,
tree.—J. SO DEN, Florist, Whi ttlesey. _ g*"

NTARCISSUS BULBOCODIUM (true), the

-Lx well-known Hoc,pPetticoat Narcissus, dozen 2k. ; 50 7«.6d ;
100, 14s 6d. Monophylla or Clusiu the lovely miniature white
Hoop Petticoat, home-grown roots 6d. each; 5s. dozen.
Double white Gardenia-like Narcissus, deliciously fragrant
50 2s. 9d.; 100 5s. Double Daffodils, from Mount Vesuvius
dozen Is. Three roots, each of twelve varieties, of Italian

01 T RONG STRAW BERRY RUNNERS. — Narcissus, including some good forms of Tazetta. an interest-
^ Stirling Castle (early). Sir J. Paxton^British C|ueen, free ' ing collection for ^^Mixed^NarcisBUs fm^arge

Stirling Castle (early), 8ir J. Paxton, British Queen, free 1
by parcels post at 2s. fld. per 100.—J. EDMED, Newington,
Hittingbourne.

(TARNATIONS AND PICOTEES.—R. Lord’s

fine exhibition varieties are unusually strong^thin season,
and can be had os under, his selection. 6 Carnations and 6
Picotees, in 12 varieties, 6s. Gd. 6 pair Carnations, 6 pair
Picoteea, in 12 varieties, 12 h. 6d. Orders of over 12 pairs, Is.
per pulr. Carriage paid for cash. Send stamped directed
euvolope for list.-^ROBERT LORD. Hole Bottom.Todmorden.

OEVERAL hundred yards of BOX EDGING

D for Sale, cheap.—Apply to the GARDENER, Huntaham
Gardens, Hampton, North Devon. _

good sound roots, 50 Is. 9d.; 100 3s. ; 500 14s.; 1,000 26*.
Ad dress as above. _2_

SPECIALLY CHEAP CLASS.

Packing Cases free and not returnable.

100 squares glass at the following prices

15 oz.

IS* by 8 for 10a. Od.
12 by 9 „ 10a. Od.

21 oz.

13* by 8 for 14s. Od
12 by 9 „ 14s. Od.

Standard RoBes, 12s. doz., dw arfs, 9s. doz.

Dwarf Pears and Apples, 18s. doz., trained. 24s. doz.
All carriage paid to Loudon. Write for catalogue to
J OSHUA LE CORNU & SON. Queen’s Road, Jersey.

ROSES.

Gardens, Bamp tou, North Devon. ___

ARCHlDS.—A private Collector has numc-

Vy rouB specimen and smaller plants, many coming into
flower, for disposal. List on application to “ J. L or can be
seen at 65, Cambridge Gardens, Nutting Hill, London, W.

S WEET-SCENTED PLANTS.—Six of the

most delicious of all flowers for perfume are Stephanotis

14 by 10 „ 13e. 6<L H by 10 .. a s. oo.

15 by 9 . 13s. 6d. 15 by 9 „ 21s. Od.

12 by 12 I 13s 12 by 12 ., 2ls. Od.

15 bVli :: 19S. Od. 15 by 12 „ 26s. Gd.

18 by 12 .. 22s. Od. 18 by 12 „ 32s. Od.

20 $12 :: 258. Od. 20 byl2 ,, 40s. Od.

300 squares 15-oz„ 8 by 6, or 250 squares, 81 by 6*. or M0
squares, 91 by 61, or 170 squares^ bj 71, or 150 squares, 10 by

Putty, Id. per lb.; Paint, ready mixed, in lib., 21b., 41b., and
71b. tins, at 5d. per lb. Other sizes of glass quoted for on

A GRAND COLLECTION J rockwork shrubs, floribunda (tine variety. Is 6d -V appuSun. packed inown WaK«S seldom any

A a il the best; standard ornamental trees, all the best; G»rieniac:S! WL^wmSum cSe^a^The’ix breakage. Intending purchasers will oblige by making their

«r.QKj, to suit the aboye ___

Including CarxationB, Paunies, Violets, Hollyhocks.

New general Autumn Catalogue of the above and many
other things may be had gratis and post free upon application.
—T. S. WARE, Hale Farm, Nurseries, Tottenham, London.

COMTE BRAZZA’S

"KTEW double white VIOLET—White Neapoli-

lv tan—very large, pure white, sweetly-scented flowers.
Without question the fines; Violet in cultivation. —For full de¬
scription see new catalogue of Roses, Trees, Shrubs, and
Florists’ Flowers, free on application to

THOMAS S. WARE,

Hale Farm Nursery, Tottenham, London.

THE HOPE NURSERIES,

BEDALE, YORKS.

ESTABLISHED A CENTURY.

tine strong plants for flower this winter for lus. rackage trauma w -

gratis and Ferns extra to pay carriage.—JOHN H. LEY, -

Woodside Green, 8outh Norwood. S.E. _ TT T? "NT "D V TA7

ft MOST ELEGANT PALMS for 6a.—Three HIilN II I YY

U pairs of Cocob Weddelliana, Areca lutescens, Cocos plu- Wholesale

mosa; pretty plants in small pots ; hamper gratis.—JOHN H. gain ALFRED 8T1

LEY, Woodside Green, 8.E. _____—

"I O DRACAENAS, 4-inch pots, 12s.—All finest GARDEN

aud distinct sorts, just showing colour; in 5-inch pots, A XTTTT l?T"R

11 feet to 2 feet high, 2ls. dozen. Packages gratis for cash ( jUVAJA-ri U i
with order.—J. H. LEY, Woodside Green, S.E VJ bag; JO bags for_12i

ft ADIANTUM FARLEYENSE, 10s. 6d.-

U Remarkably beautiful plants with far finer frondB than g a nd. Is. 6<L per bushel
are usually seen, in 4-inch pots, but fit for 6-inch, and will Peat Mould, Is. per bush,
rapidly make large specimens.—JOHN H. LEY, Woodside per bush.; 5 b. per sack.

HENRY WAINWRIGHT,

Wholesale Glass Warehouse,

8 & 10 ALFRED STREET. BOAR LANE. LEE DS.

GARDEN REQUISITES.

POCOA-NUT FIBRE REFUSE, Is. 3d. per

VJ bag; 10 bags for 12a.; 30 for 30s.; truck load, free on
rail, 30s.; Best Brown Fibrous Peat, 5s. per a»ck,5 for 22a 6dj
Black Fibrous Peat, 4s. 6d. per sack, 5 for 20 b. ; Coarse 8Uver
Sand, Is. 6cL per bushel; Yellow Fibrous^Loam. Leaf, and
Peat Mould. Is. per buBh. Potting and Bulb Composts, Is. 4<L

t Mould, Is. per buBh. Potting and Bulb Composts, Is. 4<L

_bush.; 5a. per sack. Russia Mats of every description.

Artificial manures. Garden Sticks and Labels. TobaccojCloth

ESTABLISHED A CENTURY. plants from cold pit of the new Lastrea aristata varie- I

TIENRY MAY offers the following first-class 1

“ 8 .E n ' 1 g *" « ratu - J0HN H LEY ’ Wood “ li *

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-L^l plants from cold pit of the new Lastrea anstata vane- --—j-=-5- jy i rr

Genuine Garden Requisites,

A S SUPPLIED TO THE ROYAL GARDENS,

xi the leading Gentry, and Florists of the United Khagdwn.
Cocoa-nut Fibre Refuse, best only, la 6d. per rack ; 10 forl3a.

^^« F ^Ce C r r “ M, “ U ° n,r0m " a DAVALLIAS, 5s-Hare’.-foot, Squ i^i7 -

Roses, on own roots 8s. do^n. our selection. 0 foot. D. Tyermanl, D. tenui folia, D. immersa, D Novro- f oTST’; M for sactolncluded. Truck

Roses. Tea-scented, 12s dozen, our selection. Including Zolandi8a . Box gratis, or by poBt for 6d. extra.-J. H. LEY, ^ n f t ° aln in* 'more than two tons, free on rail. 33i SelecwJ

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in CROTONS, highly coloured

L^J plants in 4-inch pots of the best sorts ir

Aquilegias, or Columbines, glandulosa, Skiuneri, chrysantha, handsome plants in Mnch and 4-inch pots, for 21a.

caubs, cali. hybrida, from single pots, so'-dlings, 2s. 6d. doz. gratis —JOHN H. LEY, Woodsi de G ree n, S.E ._

Auriculas, from best named kind 2s. Gd. per dozen. fTIHE SENSATION OF THE SEASON.—

<Ku*,thera, Evening Primrose, Is 6d. per dozen. .T^ nmmir On

Carnation, Crimson Clove. 3s. dozen.

Carnation, Grenadin, scarlet, 3». dozen.

Carnations, strong seedlings, labelled sep.,2s. dozen.

Daisies, double crimson. 3s. 6d. 100.

Daisies, double white, 3«. 6d. 100.

Hollyhocks, coloured sep.. strong, from 3s. dozen.

Myosotis comp, aurea, 2s. 6d. dozen
Poet’s Narcissus, sweet scented, 6d. dozen.

Polyanthus, Webb’s grand strain, 2s. dozen.

Polyanthus, gold-laced, 2s. dozen.

Polyanthus, tine mixed. Is. dozen.

Pentstemons seedlines, from named kinds, Is. dozen.
Pyrethrum, double wnite, 5s. per dozen.

Pyrethrum, single mixed, from sing, pots, 2s. dozen.

Pansies, seedlings, Cliveden yellow, blue, white, and spotted,
4s. 100, 2s. 6d. 60. , ,

Violets. Neapjlitan, doublo blue, flowering clumps, 4s. doz.
Wallflower, nne double mixed, «d. soore.

Wal flower, fine single mixed, 6iL soore. . ,

Marguerites, or Paris Palsies, blue, yellow, and white, 3*. doz .

containing more tnan two tons, tree ^

--—-—— Brown Fibrous Peat, fie. per sack ; 5 for 22 b. fid. Black Pea™

d, 124.— Fine 4s. 6d. per sack: 5 for 20 b. Coarse Silver Sand, la 6d. per
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f * 4 »lass

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The best of the yellow sports fr.nn Mad. Dcsgrange ; one mass Southwark Street, London 8.K. (late 19, New B rood otfeeu.
of large flowers from August till November. Only true, direct /^ A ]> l)KW REQUISITES.—Cheapest house in

FIR TREE OIL INSECTICIDE (soluble in water lg bag . 15 bag3 , I4g.; 30 bags, 25s. Sent to aU parta.
Effectually clears all INSECTS and PARASITES from the Truck, loose. 25s., free to rail. Best Loam and Peat.-A»
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Grubs, Turnip Fly, ic. Cures Mildew and Blight. Clears
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ists. Is 6d., 2s. 6d.,
in larger quantities.

With frontispiece, 3s. 6d.

ARDY FLOWERS.—Descriptions of

•DOSES.—Very large and strong plants of the HUGHES, MANCHESTER.wholesale from Boom 1
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Grapes from Mealy Bug, Sc., ana makes a goou TT ARDY FLOWERS . — Descriptions OI

S&JSL H A tb t?u\L*o, the gm o_Ul U and

Author of "The Wild

Ololre de Dijon, 9s.
Clsughton on Brock,

Digitized by

•N, Rose Farm. (and from

KMIS Meroh»nt,*udWhoTe«Ue | to*.: *’ W

Patent Medicine Hon a

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

i l

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

NOVEMBER 15, 1884.

No. 297.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

COMTE BRAZZI’S WHITE VIOLET.

Tint annexed representation of Comte Brazzi’s
White Neapolitan Violet gives a good idea of
the size of the flower, which is pure white on a
foot-stalk of unusual length and vigour, thus
making the blooms very useful for bouquets. In
fragrance it is equal to Marie Louise and the
old Neapolitan—a sufficient recommendation to
make it a welcome addition to these well-known
favourites. It begins to flower on the open
border in the beginning of September, and
continues most profusely in bloom all through
the winter. In frames it is in bloom after the
1st of October, differing in that respect from
other white Violets that I have tried, notably
Belle de Chatenay and Queen of Whites,
which I never could induce to open a flower
before the spring. At present, after the beau¬
tiful weather of the fortnight through which we
have just passed, the plants are covered with
flowers, open and expanding. After con¬
siderable experience in the preparation
and propagation of Violets, and after
having tried many plans in order to
ensure an early start in spring, I have
come to the conclusion that the following
is the best: Select good strong runners
early in February and dibble them into
hand lights in sandy soil in an orchard
house or other cool structure where they
will strike root readily and make strong
plants ready for planting out early in May.

The best place for them then is a half-
shaded, cool moist border where they can
have every attention as to watering in dry
weather, in order that they may grow into
healthyplants, with well-developed crowns, *•
fit for transplanting into frames in autumn.
Different growers adopt different ways in
regard to runners, some removing them
vigorously during summer, others saving
the first six or twelve runners to be pegged
down. I have noticed that the flowers
on plants thus treated are more numerous,
but they are not so fine as those produced
from single crowns where the runners have
all been cat off. VV. A

in winter to the action of frost. Where the |
Gladiolus is grown for decorative purposes only
I do not consider that expensive and elaborate
preparation is necessary. It is desirable to
select an open sunny spot for it where the soil
has an average depth of from 15 to 18 inches.
In most cases such a soil and position will, with
the aid of some manure, prove quite capable of
producing good spikes of flowers.

Position. —In a general way Gladioli are not
suitable to plant as decorative subjects in
flower beds which form part of a design. The
proper place for them where the spikes are re¬
quired for cutting is in the mixed border, but
it will in most cases prove moro satisfactory if
a piece of ground is set apart for them in the
kitchen garden, where the soil is in all ordinary
cases more suitable for them than elsewhere,
and can be prepared for them with less trouble.
It is an accepted fact that the Gladiolus, like
the Rose, thrives best with a change of soil
every year, and my own experience bears out
this statement. As a rather large grower of

HOW TO GROW THE GLADIOLUS.

Those who are beginners in the cultiva¬
tion of Gladioli may be informed that a
well-prepared soil is of primary im¬
portance for them, and no time should
now be lost in choosing the position of the
bed ita which they are to be grown and in
getting it well prepared.

Soil.—I may in the first place state that
those who wish to grow them for exhibi¬
tion purposes must have a soil that is
capable of supporting a vigorous growth.

A good mellow loam, fairly deep and
well enriched, is doubtless best; but in some
cases an addition of loam and manure to
the staple soil will prove sufficient, but an
attempt to grow these flowers in a proper
manner in a thin, poor soil, will certainly fail.
In selecting the ground, the space set apart for
them must be in proportion to the number of
spikes required at one time ; where as many as
twenty-four spikes are required quite two
hundred bulbs must be planted to produce suffi¬
cient choice at any time between the middle of
August and the end of September. In preparing
the soil the work should be done as early m the
winter as possible ; a depth of 18 inches of well-
moved earth is necessary, and where the soil is
poor a good quantity of thoroughly rotted farm¬
yard manure should be mixed with the soil as the
work of digging goes on. I find that Gladioli
like a bit of good manure, provided it is not
fresh ; for this reason I like it added to the soil
twoor three months before the bulbs are planted.
Moreover, early preparation-ogives time f >r the
ground to settle down to its |>rWi
the surface will be benelHed nybein Ajpbsed

Comte Brazzi’s Whito Yiolet.

• \ \ r r

Gladioli and my space somewhat restricted, I
change the crop every other year. One year I
have Gladioli and the next Potatoes. I manure
heavily in October for the Gladioli, but not for
the Potatoes, which follow them, early in
March. The ground is lightly forked over for
the purpose of breaking any hard lumps of
earth. This stirring brings the surface into a
capital tilth, an essential condition if the bulbs
are to succeed well. Respecting the

Time of planting, I like to get the corms
into the ground by the middle of March, or as
soon afterwards as the condition of the soil will
allow, for 1 should not think of working the
land when it would tread into a paste, but as
the corms suffer from being kept out of the
ground longer than is necessary, every effort
should be made to get the planting done soon
after the time stated. Where Gladioli are
grown for exhibition they require plenty of
space. There is no better plan than to mark
out 4-foot beds, leaving 2-foot alleys between
them; this gives room for three rows of
flowers in each bed at 1 foot apart, with a

pathway between them. Where Gladioli are
grown for decorative purposes, I prefer beds
G feet wide; in these 1 put five rows of bulbs.
For exhibition purposes the corms should be
15 inches apart in the rows, but in the 6-foot
beds they may be 12 inches apart. I prefer
to plant in drills, as in that case the hoe
assists to break up the soil into a friable con¬
dition. The drills should be 4 inches deep. I
find rather deep planting to be beneficial; in
that way the roots are less liable to suffer from
drought, and they are more secure from rough
winds than when the roots are nearer the sur¬
face. In filling in the drills care must be taken
to keep the large lumps from getting near tho
bulbs. We find it best to go over the soil which
has been drawn out with a rake and make it as
fine as we can. Where a fairly fine soil can be
had I do not consider a layer ol'sand placed round
the bulbs to be of any benefit to them, for the
Gladiolus is not a tender-rooted plant; it sends
out large fleshy roots that strike out at once in
search of the best food they can find, and if alump
of well-rotted manure is within reach they
soon find it and cling to it in a way which
shows that they like it. The fact is, this
fine plant is too often crippled in its early
stages of growth by being grown in poor
soil ; but let us return to the filling in of
the drills. Where the soil is dry and lumpy
some fine earth should be prepared to place
immediately over the bulbs, and then they
will take no harm even if the surface is not
quite so fine as it might be.

Growing for exhibition. —The culti¬
vator for exhibition will find frequent
calls upon his time during the months of
July aud August. It will be necessary to
keep the ground free from weeds, and to
i uu the Dutch hoe occasionally between
the plants to stir up the surface, unless
the ground is mulched with some material
to prevent too rapid evaporation from the
soil. In that case the surface should be
stirred up with a hoe an inch or two deep,
and the ground well watered before the
mulching is put on. If this is done early
in July it will be in good time, but all
depends on the state of the weather,
whether mulching will be beneficial or not.
When the rainfall is heavy enough to keep
the ground sufficiently moist down to the
roots mulchings are unnecessary, but in
bright hot weather both watering and
mulching are necessary to the production
of good spikes of flowers. In dry weather
the supply of water must be liberal, suffi¬
cient to reach the lowest roots, and it must
be given at short intervals, say every four
or five days. Even a good mulch will not
do a way altogether with watering,although
it will help to reduce the amount required.

Mulching and watering. — I am in
favour of good mulchings, especially on
light soils, and I find there is nothing
better as a mulching than half-rotten
manure laid on the surface 2 or 3 inches thick.
For garden decoration and for the production
ofspikes of flowers for cuttingthecultivator may,
if he desires it, and the plants are growing in a
good deep soil, dispense with the mulchings and
waterings, though the growth would certainly
be improved by such extra attentions. What I
mean is that fairly good results may be obtained
without them. It will, however, be necessary to
keep the ground free from weeds, and the surface
occasionally stirred, especially after heavy rains.
To secure the spikes of flowers against damage
from wind it will be necessary to put a stick to
each, and to securely fix them to it with some
soft matting. Those who intend to exhibit must
also shade the flowers in order to preserve their
colours. Two pieces of board about 4 inches
wide and 18 inches long nailed together in the
shape of a V, and then securely fixed to a strong
stake, from 4 to 5 feet long, will serve as a
shade ; by placing the back of the flower spike
in the jangle of the boards more or less firmly,
as the case may require, all the flowers may be
made to falbe one Mrjiy," HA M P J. <p. C.

440

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 15, 1884.

FUCHSIAS IN THE OPEN GROUND.

I feel sure that wore it generally known how
happy Fuchsias are planted out permanently in
the open ground they would be more largely
used for that purpose than they are. Even
the choicest kinds of Fuchsias will survive our
winters out-of-doors unharmed with little or no
care. The tenderness of the wood and foliage
probably induces the belief that the roots
are equally tender, but this is by no means
the case, as with a simple covering of some
3 inches of ashes they will withstand the
severest of our English winters. Plants that
I have had in open ground for these last five
years were some two or more years old when
put out, and were simply meant, in the first
instance, for summer decoration. They bloomed
well, and were not, however, lifted in the
autumn. The wood was killed to the ground,
but the next spring they shot up strongly from
the roots and bloomed well early in the autumn
and up to the setting in of the winter. They
have since been mulched with leaf-mould,
rotten manure, or something similar every year
about the latter end of November, and each
spring they have thrown up more and stronger
shoots, at last developing into fine bushes, 3
feet or more through and some 2 feet high,
carrying when in full flower hundreds of blooms.
The only attention in addition to the mulching
alluded to they have received has been frequent
soakings with liquid manure during the grow¬
ing time. This they need when established
some years in order to iuduce the vigour neces¬
sary to render them really effective. Those
who have a large extent of pleasure ground to
embellish would certainly find Fuchsias useful;
they cause little or no labour—an important
point; they commence to flower just when they
are most needed, that is at the close of the
summer, when heavy rains have so dimmed
the beauty of the flower garden generally, as
to render their perfect freshness all the more
charming. In a general way they come into
bloom about the last week in August; they are
in their prime during September, lasting, how¬
ever, in beauty, unless sharp frosts occur, until
November.

For cut flowers. —Fuchsias harmonise well
in floral decorations, but few would care to cut
away entire branches from their pot plants, as
this would, in a measure, spoil them for another
season; therefore one seldom sees this flower
employed in a cut state. But a good bed in
vigorous health in the open ground would
furnish an abundance of material, and I feel
sure that all who need many cut flowers would
appreciate the power of being able to cut an arm¬
ful of flower-laden Fuchsia branches at need. I
think, too, that owners of small gardens, or,
indeed, where the glass accommodation is of a
limited character, would find much satisfaction
in growing Fuchsias in this way, as they could
thus enjoy a much greater variety, and even
the humble cottager may have his collection
of Fuchsias without the aid of glass. A collec¬
tion of, say, fifty kinds planted in line or
grouped together would form as interesting
and pleasing a feature in the autumnal flower
garden as could be desired. There are some
kinds which lend themselves better to outdoor
decoration than others, and these are such as
are possessed of a stiff, compact habit of growth
with flowers of moderate size. Rose of Castile
may be taken as a perfect type of outdoor
Fuchsia, a3 it combines all these desired quali¬
ties in a high degree, the flowers, moreover,
being on such short, sturdy footstalks as to
render them very conspicuous. Varieties of
this character are almost weather-proof ; they
are but little liable to be broken by wind, and
the flowers seem to be able to bear a large
amount of rainfall without injury. Curiously
enough, those having white corollas resist bad
weather extremely well ; the corolla appears to
be of such substance as to bo but little affected
by damp.

Double kinds, on the contrary, are not so suit¬
able, and I only recommend them on the score of
variety. The weightof the flowers, which in some
varieties is relatively very great, is apt to cause
whole branches to snap off, especially when
subjected to wind-waving in rainy weather.
Neither have they so graceful an appearance in
a cut state. Where Fuchsias are grown for
greenhouse or con/ervatoiy d^eptatio^ there are
frequently plants I ftyhjd t^ Jmvo ly jl\_discarded

for want of room. These will do very well
planted out, although they will not come strong
for a season or two, as they seem to need time
to accommodate themselves to the new order of
things, and to form a sufficient number of
underground buds to enable them to annually
throw up a considerable quantity of flower-
stems. But I would certainly prefer thrifty
young specimens, having all the vigour of youth
in them ; and I should best like such a3 were
propagated in August, and were kept just
gently moving through the winter, bring¬
ing them along in greenhouse temperature
during spring, and well hardening off in May.
Such plants would make strong growth, and
would be effective the first year, and would
throw up strongly the following one. I need
hardly insist on the previous thorough prepara¬
tion of the soil, but I may call attention to the
fact that these Fuchsias are to be permanent
occupants of the outdoor garden, and that,
therefore, extra pains must be taken with the
body of soil they are to occupy. It should, if
light, be deeply stirred to guard them against
summer’s drought, and if cold and retentive
should be mellowed by being thrown up roughly
for the winter, at the same time adding liberally
any light material. Rotten manure should form
an ingredient, and of course the poorer the
soil the more of this will be needed. Plant in
the middle of June, mulch with short manure,
and water well in dry weather. Cut them
down about the middle of November, and
put about 3 inches of light material over the
crowns. J. C. B.

Green leaves. —One of the greatest charms
possessed by an English garden is its greenery
and freshness during the wintry season. “ Ah !”
said an American visitor the other day, as he
examined our well-berried Hollies and admired
the numerous forms of Ivy growing on the
walls, “ we have nothing like this. Our gardens
are very bleak and bare during winter.” Verily,
there is quite an especial charm in the wintry
aspect of a well-planted English garden, with
its bold clumps of Yucca and evergreen shrubs
istening in the morning sunshine. ^ After
olliea and Ivy in variety, the Aucuba is one
of the best of all winter evergreens, its warmth
of golden leaf colouring affording quite a cheery
effect. Garrya hung with its grey tassels is
most picturesque, while crimson Dogwood and
golden Willow shoots contrast most effectively
when planted together near water margins.
Really one might make a very beautiful winter

g arden; full of warmth and colour, even without
owers.

Hardy winter flowers. — And what
may we gather in the open-air garden for
our winter bouquets ? Purple Violets cer¬
tainly for their sweetness, Pansies “ for
thoughts,” Christmas Roses because most
seasonable, and with them a few of the vivid
scarlet Crown Anemones, that glisten (bright as
cornfield Poppies) in the winter sun. In this
shallow vase of sweet Violets we shall place a
few flowers of the honey-scented Chimonanthus,
and in this tall slender vase two or three flowers
of Iris stylosa, attended only by its own graceful
leaves. A handful of the long shoots of the
winter Jasmine laden with golden buds will
open their yellow blossoms fresh and fair
indoors, so also the buds of this dainty lilac-
hued Crocus longiflorus. A good bunch of
Wallflower, both crimson and golden yellow,
must grace this old brown pitcher, and in this
broad tazza of fresh green wood Moss and
bronzy Ivy leaves we shall place our “ pale
Primrose flowers.” Late Chrysanthemums (with
red Mahonia leaves) are also available; none
fairer or more welcome than Fleur de Marie .
and with the Daisy-like blooms of this rosy
Erigeron may well be grouped the bronzed leaf
of Heuchera and the glowing red varied foliage
of Teliima, and a little bit of golden Thyme,
with a spray of Rosemary added to our posy,
may, by their fragrance, remind us of absent
friends.

Sweet-scented Tusailago, or, to call it
by its prettier name of Winter Heliotrope
(Tussilago fragrans), is now in blossom on sunny
banks here and there. Phillips calls it “ the
Heliotrope of the open garden,” and tell us it is
a native of Italy, first introduced in 1800, but it
is now naturalised by the acre near to Dublin,
nearly every waste roadside being covered by

its heart-shaped leaves and scented by ita
fragrant, if not showy, flowers. Although
the plant grows and flowers freely beside roads
and on sunny canal banks, it does not, as a rule,
bloom so freely in the garden, although it grows
fast enough—indeed, often therein becomes a
troublesome weed. It is most suitable for a
sunny bank in a half-wild place, whence its
sweet flower-heads may be plucked and brought
indoors for the sake of their grateful fragrance.
It is just the plant to introduce on banks where
more weedy things have possession, as there are
but few of our native plants, however trouble¬
some, which this emigrant or settler will not
crowd out wherever it may be introduced.

Rooket Larkspurs (Delphinium Ajacis).
—It is really surprising that such beauty as
these plants possess should be so seldom met
with in gardens ; but if anyone could see the
waving acres of tall spikes as grown in some of
the large seed grounds there would be few who
would not be captivated by them and feel a
desire to grow them. They are certainly among
the finest things of all the annuals, and so dis¬
tinct from the rest ingrowth, their dense, erect
spikes being more like gigantic Hyacinths than
anything else. These annual Larkspurs fall
into two distinct classes—first, the varieties of
D. Ajacis, or the Rocket Larkspur, and
the Branching Larkspur, or the varieties of
D. Consolida. Of both of these classes there
are numerous sorts, differing either in colour,
stature, or habit. Of the Rocket Larkspurs
there is the Stock-flowered strain, which grows
only about 1 foot high, and produces dense.
Hyacinth-like spikes of pure white and pink.
Then there is a taller strain called The Emperor,
which is certainly the finest of all. This strain
grows from 1£ feet to 2 feet high, and bears dense
spikes of various colours, including deep blue
and purple. The branching varieties are more
straggly in growth, but also very beautiful, and
are of various colours. The Candelabrum strain
branched, the spikes being

much the same as those of the Rocket strain
and of divers colours. Good-sized masses of
these beautiful Larkspurs produce a fine effect
in a garden, and are really no more trouble
in cultivating than the tender bedding-out
plants.

Establishing Bracken. — I find that
seedlings do much better than tr&us pi anted
roots, and are in every way more satisfactory.

If a handful of ripe fronds be gathered now and

S laced between sheets of dry paper, and kept
ry, the spores will soon fall out. They may
then either be sown at once or kept till spring.
Make up pots or pans of good loam, rammed
firm ; sow the spores not too thickly ; cover
with a piece of glass, place the pots in saucers of
water in a cool shady position, and they will
grow in three weeks or so. As soon as the
young plants are large enough to handle, pot
them off singly into small pots, and as soon as
they have filled these, give them a shift into
4-inch pots ; grow them on rapidly in a house or
frame, and by the middle or end of July they
will be large enough to plant out permanently.
The progress which they make is quite astonish¬
ing if liberally treated. Plants in sods always
take two years before they recover from removal,
even if they do recover, which does not always
happen ; whereas these seedlings become quite
established the first season, and the second season
grow' into good tufts, ramifying in all direc¬
tions. I have some sown last March, not yet
eight months old, and now fully 4 inches or 5
inches in diameter. A vast number of plants
may be obtained from two or three pots. I
may add that it is not absolutely necessary to
employ pots or pans for common things of this
kind. I often take a sod of loam, turn it upside
down in a saucer of water, and sow the spores
all over it, and do not cover at all; they como
just aB well.—T. S.

Tropaeolum Gooperi.— This is as bright
in the flower garden now (November 1) as it
was in July or August. It will not bear frost,
but wet does it little or no harm ; indeed, it
is one of our best bedding plants. It never
grows more than C inches high. The flowers
are produced in dense masses, and their colour,
a soft scarlet, is very effective. It is excellent
for creeping amongst beds of shrubs. It cannot
be raised from seed ; stock must be secured in J
eutunm from cuttings, and any quantity may]
be prcpagatjCfl ia ^j

Nov. 15, 1884]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

411

THE BEST JETHIONEMAS.

These are mostly, and perhaps wholly, natives
of much warmer climates than our own. We
find them under cultivation to be variable both
as regards hardiness and duration. They conaist
of about eight or ten species, all of which (from
the mountain habitats of one or two of the more
popular kinds) we have come to regard as
alpines, which is, however, not strictly correct.
Though all are handsome and worth cultivating,
but few can be regarded as really perennial in
the open air in this country, and fewer still as
capable of enduring the rigours of our worst
wintera. Reputed perennial species from
countries washed by the Mediterranean, ac¬
cording to Sibthorp, prove but annual under
cultivation, and certainly our experience con¬
firms that fact. On the hardy character and
duration of these charming little shrubs depend
their value, for whilst they may be classed
amongst gems in the way of rock garden plants,
if they cannot withstand exposure they are not
likely to be valuable. It will be seen from the
descriptive list given below that but few come
up to this standard of hardiness, but, fortunately,
these few include the best kinds. All are of a
well-branched or shrubby habit, varying in
Btature from 2 inches to 18 inches ; the leaves
are mostly fleshy, glaucous, sessile, entire, and
somewhat linear: their flowers are purple,
ranging to a delicate rose or flesh colour, and
produced in summer in great quantities; the
branches assume a prostrate habit, and in one
season the larger kinds will form bushes a foot
across. It may be useful, in order to indicate
allied genera, to mention that throughout this
genus the species have synonymous name^
largely authorised, as Iberis, Lepidium, and
Tnlaspi. In order that a general idea may be
gained of their form and habit, HCthionemas may
be described as slender Candytufts withglaucouti
leaves and rosy flowers, rich in colour and in
numbers abundant. Within a few years several
unfamiliar names have appeared in trade lists, a
fact which at any rate shows that some attention
is being paid to these miniature shrubs. Besides
grandinorum here figured, we see a variety of
persicum called splendidum, also a difolium,
pulchellum, and iberideum. In none of these
names do we find that any new feature is indi¬
cated, and what or whence the varieties is not
stated. The annual species are saxatile, of
which there are one or two varieties ; it comes
from rocky habitats in the south of Europe,
height from 2 inches to 6 inches, flowers in
May and June, pale purple. JS. cristatum, a
very dwarf plant; height only 2 inches to
4 inches. Native of Syria; the pods are
crested. JE. Buxbaumi, a pretty plant; height
6 inches ; flowers small and purple. It comes
from Cappadocia and Iberia, and has many
synonyms, the present name being authorised
by De Candolle. The one-seeded ^Ethionema
(/£. monospermum), a Spanish biennial, is
of a more herbaceous character, and has more
oval leaves than most forms. It flowers in mid¬
summer ; height G inches, flowers purple and
somewhat large. The following under suitable
conditions are of perennial duration—viz.,
.E. gracile, a species with slender branches
fiom Carniola; flowers pale red or purple; a
shrub nearly a foot high. .E. coridifolium, a
Mount Lebanon species with Coris-like leaves
and large rosy flowers ; one of the handsomest
and hardiest; height only from 3 inches to
G inches. Very similar to this is yE. pulchel-
lum, which, however, has smaller flowers and
more glaucous leaves. If this and HS. persicum
are not identical, they are very nearly alike; they
belong to the more hardy sorts and the best for
open-air cultivation. H2. membranaceum, having
seed-pods with a pair of wing-like membranes, is
a most tempting alpine from Mount Elwend, in
Persia. It is a neat shrub with slender branches
not more than 4 inches or 6 inches high ; the
leaves are small and glaucous, and the flowers a
lively rose colour freely produced in small
clusters. JE. grandiflorum is very similar, but
taller ; its flowers are in large clusters and more
elongated. Height 18 inches. It is quite a
new kind and easily raised from seed. Mr.
Thompson, of Ipswich, believes it to be one of
Boissier’s plants ; if so, it is pretty sure to be
from Greece or Asia Minor. This from its extra
size and larger bunches of flq.w«f s is perhaps the
most showy pf all. The blossoms.-m jyipAedj
and of a pleasing rose eolottc, WaiJh L» V'cwa

off to advantage by the glaucous foliage. A.
styloaum, another native of Mount Lebanon, is
easily recognised by its long style ; height 3
inches or 4 inches, and habit Blender. The
flowers are flesh-coloured and large.

It will be seen that the species just named
vary but little in outward appearance, and the
figure here given may almost be considered
typical of the genus. In order to enjoy the
beauty of these small, but telling plants, under
open-air cultivation, special but simple treat¬
ment is required. I at any rate find that to be
the best, though I have come across those who
have been surprised that I should find any¬
thing difficult connected with their cultivation.
As a matter of fact, I lost more plants than
I should care to recount before I came to succeed
with them. They not only make neater speci¬
mens, but more hardy growth when fully exposed
to sunshine than when treated otherwise, and
evidently their roots enjoy the warmth of such
a position as well as warm, gritty, or somewhat
dry loam. On rockwork where these conditions
exist the plants are not only very floriferous,
but they pass through our winters more bravely
than when otherwise situated. After all it will
be safest to keep up young stock by means
either of cuttings rooted early in summer or
seeds. By such management, not only can a
finer display be made in the rock garden by
planting numbers out after frost is over, but
after mild winters there will be a large amount
of bloom from two-year-old plants freely

^bhionema grauditioruw, showing habit of growth.

planted ; and even in the worst of weather it is
probable that some will continue strong, and it
may be added that is a result which I never
realised when the plants were grown in moist
quarters or shaded from the sun. Grown in
pots, plunged in cold frames, and kept well up
to the glass, neat specimens may be had in a
year’s time, and there is no difficulty in pre¬
serving them through the winter if kept rather
dry. It hardly need be said that plants thus
grown should have the glass completely removed
during summer, unless for that season the pots
are plunged elsewhere in the open. A group of
.Ethionem&s consisting of a dozen or twenty
planted near dark-coloured stones on the rockery
is charmingly effective. J. W.

Corn-flowers (Centaurea).—The popularity
of these has largely increased since gardeners
have taken to grow them largely in pots for
greenhouse decoration and for cutting in autumn
and winter. The common Corn Cockle (C.
Cyanus) is most largely grown, and it may be
had in every variation of colour, from the rich
turquoise blue of the type through pinks and
purples to pure white. It is justly a favourite
plant for cutting from, but for all that the plant
is so straggly and weedy looking, particularly for
pot culture. There is another species grown
largely which ought certainly' to supersede the
common Corn Cockle, particularly for pot
culture, this is C. depressa, which, as its name
implies, is of dwarf growth, being only about
a foot in height, and altogether a neater growing
plant than C. Cyanus, and the flowers are quite
as large and of precisely the same stamp, and

of a rich deep blue. The leaves are broader
and of a silvery hue, and may be easily recog¬
nised from the common sort. Being a dwarfer
and neater plant, it is specially suited for small
gardens as well as for pot culture. There is a
rose coloured variety of it, but the typical blue
is the best.

Godetias. —A great improvement has been
effected of late years among these beautiful

S lants, and now they must be included in the
st of first-rate annuals. There are upwards of
a dozen kinds in cultivation, but attention should
be concentrated on a few of the very best, such,
for instance, as the lovely Whitneyi race, which
is the queen of the genus. The crimson and
mauve Lady Albemarle is beautiful enough, but
this has been surpassed by new kinds, such as
Satin Rose, which so fascinated everyone a year
or two ago when shown at South Kensington,
where it was awarded a first-class certificate.
G. Dunnetti, insignia, Whitneyi, concolor, and
flammea are lovely varieties, too, and so is tho
new pure white Duchess of Albany, which is
unquestionably the finest white there is.

Tropseolum tuberosum.— My own ex¬
perience of this flower has been so contrary to
that of “ Sudley Villa’s,” and yet so successful,
that I must send a few notes of my treatment of
it. According to advice given in Gardeninu
two years ago, I planted some roots in quite
poor soil, and they neither made much leafage
or bloom, although it was an average summer.
I then tried a fairly rich soil, and the result has
been most satisfactory. The iron umbrella-
stand on which they are trained has been well
covered, and the quantity of beautiful blooms
standing up all over the ironwork has shown off
this pretty climber to great advantage, and lias
been the admiration of everyone, several of
whom said—“We have never admired it much
till now.” I take up the bulbs before the frost
can kill them, and keep them in a box of sand.
—Belton.

12192.— Dahlias from cuttings.— The
end of September is too late to put in cuttings
of Dahlias, although it is not improbable that
they may root and form tubers. As long as the
plants keep green the tubers will continue to
form. Any time during the summer months the
side growths may be taken off the Dahlias, and
be put in as cuttings in small pots. These form
what are termed pot roots, and are often useful
to save the stock of any particular variety when
it might have been lost as a ground root. Some
varieties succeed best when grown from pot
roots.—J. D. E.

11925.— Plants beneath trees.—I regret
not having until now seen the query addressed
to me by “ G. N.” in the issue of August 30.
The Lime mentioned by me is not such as to
deeply shade the rootery beneath it, the roots
and ferns being placed in an open space by the
side of the shrubbery, and only partially over¬
hung by the trees mentioned, so that “ G. N.’s”
tree is evidently differently placed. There is
always a difficulty about getting plants to really
thrive in the deep shade of trees, but as the
garden in question contains many I have given
considerable attention to the subject. Ferns
will not do well without a fair share of light,
and I always find that they succeed best where
they also get diffused sunshine, as through the
branches of light growing trees. They should
also be so placed as to be sheltered from high
winds, which they object to more than cold. I
am speaking, of course, of hardy Ferns. They
do not thrive with me when right under the
trees, where the shade is deepest; but that does
not much matter, as if the roots be picturesquely
arranged, Ferns are notrequired regularly all over
the rootery. “G.N.” must look to the spring as the
time when such spots may be made to look best,
for then, at least, when the trees are leafless, he
may have such things as Snowdrops, Crocuses,
Primroses, Daffodils, Wood Anemones, Wild
Hyacinths, &c., W’hich should be freely planted.
Of plants which later on will succeed under
trees, I have found the following to be some of
the most reliable and satisfactory (of course,
much bloom cannot be expected):—Firstly,
Ivy should be planted in quantity; it will
succeed almost anywhere, and gives a good
bold groundwork of foliage, and, moreover,
looks well at any time of the year. The
common Periwinkle (Vinca major) looks hand¬
some with mC growing in masses adoht some
rustic stone steps unfiyp, tl^e-^adp o^jtgeje^ j^jThls

44-2

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Nov. 15, 1884.

is also evergreen. The Rose of Sharon is a
plant which does well in fairly good soil, if not
in too deep shade. Similarly placed the Laurus*
tinus would flourish and look cheerful in the
winter and spring. Also the blue Monkshood
(Aconituin Napellus), which grows almost any¬
where, if the shade be not too deep, as does the
Single Rocket, a very sweet plant for semi-wild
situations. The Qiant Cow Parsnip (Heracleum
giganteum) is a fine foliaged plan, and very hardv
almost tropical in appearance, when well grown.
Comfreys (Symphytums) are things that will
grow where little else will, and give a good mass
of foliage, and on that account I have freely used
it to fill up rough and out-of-the-way places. I
have also a peculiar green flowered plant (I
think a Hellebore, but am not sure), which is a
remarkably handsome foliage plant; it is ever¬
green, and of quite different habit from the
other Hellebores.—C. H. S.

12198 — Gladioli failing. —These plantsdo notsuccccd
well in pots, and in a case where the pots wero plunged
over the rims it would be very difficult to know when to
apply water to them. It is better to grow them out of-
doors entirely, or if it should be thought desirable to start
them in pots they ought to be planted out when they have
grown about 6 inches.—J. D. E.

NOTES FROM A RECTORY GARDEN.—II.
Autumn.

It was surely enough to take a lover of plants
fairly by surprise to find a writer in a garden¬
ing publication in the early part of September
already beginning to sing the dirge of hardy
flowers for the year. “There aresome, no doubt, ”
he wrote, “who may yet extract a melancholy
gratification from their Michaelmas Daisies, but
to those who have abjured composites even
this last consolation of the declining year is
denied, and there is, in fact, nothing left them
but their anecdotage and the Narcissus cata¬
logues.” Happily, in this rectory garden we have
neither “abjured composites ” nor do we expect
our hardy flowers to fail us until mid-October,
when it must be confessed that they begin, in
Dorset dialect, “ to shrink.” Even then, there
is not a day in the year when we are entirely
bereft of a few bright blossoms. As to

Michaelmas Daisies. —They are amongst
the most precious of our autumn flowers, and
though the “ sweet-sad ” name of Farewell-
summers clings to the whole race of herbaceous
Asters in the West country, yet they do not all
deserve it, for the earliest begin to bloom in July ;
the best kinds, however, come later. A very
lovely early autumn group, as seen from
the windows, consisted of a bush of ftie light
blue Aster cyaneu9, with not far off a fine clump
of A. elegans, a charming species with large
panicles of small lilac flowers. Amongst and
about these had spread, by chance, a mass of
the pale pink Japan Anemone (A. japonica in¬
termedia), and the unpremeditated effect was all
that -could bo desired, and lasted for several
weeks. Next in point of time came the fine A.
Nova? Anglia?, with its masses of purple, attract¬
ing a host of red ^dmirals, painted ladies, and
peacock butterflies, to say nothing of every kind
of bee, making a perfect picture in the
September sunshine. There are several
varieties of this Aster, and care should be taken
to grow only the best. The purple New
England Aster was followed a little later by its
taller rose-coloured variety (A. Novie Anglia;
roseus), a kind especially useful for cutting.
Two small species— A. Amellus, with very large
blue flowers, and A. longifolius formosus, rosy
lilac, and no more than a foot in height—are
amongst the very best. These, with a variety
of A. Novi Belgii, a late bloomer which goes on
till November, make a very good selection,
suitable for any garden, and there are many
more which might be named. It must be borne
in mind, however, that there are a multitude
of worthless, weedy species, many of which are
exceedingly troublesome to get rid of, and
should never be introduced into a garden.
Autumn flowers are, in fact, so many, so richly
coloured, and so long lasting, that it i9 difficult
to choose amongst them, but few people would
dispute the claim of

Carnations and Picotf.es to a place in the
first rank. Never havo Pinks and Carnations
been stronger or finer here than this season.
Scarlet and purple and pale pink Cloves, deep
pink tree Carnations, good both for out-of-doors
and greenhouse, ard as
Rose, Mr. Poe T

e, ard as large as % lair-sized
e’s sljrip^ pCn dtio i (a grand

sort), and lastly, Lady Agnes, a bright salmon
coloured Pink, which gives us a stray bloom or
two even now in mid-October, have baen our
best amongst many. These were all two-year
old plants, and, after being well disbudded,
produced literally dozens of flowers throughout
August and September. There is no excuse for
having scraggy, scant-flowering plants of good
border Carnations such as these. Cuttings—for
layers are more troublesome and not necessary
—put in every July or early August in sandy
soil, choosing a shady corner in the open ground,
and planted out the following spring into their
blooming quarters ; or, if more convenient, they
may be put into pots a little later on for the
sake of succession in a cold frame, kept close
and moderately moist for a while, and planted
out as soon as they are fairly rooted. Such is
the whole secret of having good Carnations and
plenty of them—at any rate, in this garden.
The stock must be good to begin with, and -old
plants constantly discarded to make room for
young ones. At two years old they are at their
best; after that they grow straggling and the
blooming power diminishes.

Single Dahlias must not be omitted in
notice of autumn flowers. Here we are gather¬
ing them still untouched by frost at the end of
October, and very showy and useful they are.
But having been a grower of Single Dahlias
long before the tide of public opinion turned in
their favour, I may, perhaps, venture to say
that the race instead of improving is rather
degenerating. Ten years ago and more we used
to grow the original species, D. coccinea,
D. gracilis, D. glabrata, Ac., which, long
despised, might yet be raised by those who
cared for such old-fashioned flowers. At that
time what note3 of admiration were expended
in their praise by ladies who begged for them
as patterns for art needlework ! But these
were entirely devoid of the coarseness of the
hybrids, and though we have certainly gained
in point of colour, yet it seems more than likely,
unless care hi taken in selection of seed parents,
that these handsome flowers will fall again into
disrepute. Everywhere nowadays one sees
lanky bushes and washy colours, with coarse,
over-lapping petals, entirely destroying the
somewhat formal yet charming symmetry of
the flowers. Some years ago some hybrids were
raised in this garden from purchased seed, some
of which proved to be exceedingly good. A few
of the very best of these were carefully pre¬
served, the rest thrown away; and in other
gardens I see no improvement either in habit,
colour, or form upon these old plants which are
still extant. A multitude of seedlings, the
progeny of those self-same Dahlias, sprang up,
self-sown, this spring, which were planted out
and have done good service for cutting from.
These, without any care in hybridising, are
finer than many raised from seed bought this
season that I have seen elsewhere, hut none are
really worth keeping; and I submit that the
closer w©; keep to the dwarf habit and neat
regular flower of the typical species the better.

Globe Thistle.—A plant which, perhaps,
attracted more notice and admiration here
towards the end of August than any other was the
Russian Globe Thistle (Echinops ruthenicus),
with its quaint, steel blue knobs, looking like some
ancient instrument of war ; but it takes up
more room in a small garden than can often he
spared. The smallest plant of the same type
known to me is the alpine Sea Holly (Eryngium
alpinumj, which is very effective with its small
but numerous flower heads, set in their blue
involucres. It is not so handsome, however^s
the larger and bluer amethystine Sea Holly
(E. amethystinum). For brilliancy of colour
no ornament of the autumn garden can he named
beside the

Scarlet Lobelia.— The kind wo grow here
is a very hardy variety of L. cardiriaHs, which
came originally out of a blacksmith’s garden in
a neighbouring village. Its former history is
unknown, but, taken altogether, it is better
than most of its kind. It is not quite so large
flowered as the dark-leaved L. fulgena, hut is
much more satisfactory, since it requires no
further trouble than a covering of coal ashes to
ensure safety during very severe winters. A
dry soil seems to suit this plant, which, in its
native habitats in North America, thrives on
the stony hanks of rivers p.nd watercourses,
but high above water-mark, where I have often
gathered it. It has never bloomed so freely or

lasted so long in beauty as during this last dry,
hot autumn, in full exposure to sun. It delights,
however, in liberal mulching when the borders
are top-dres9ed. A great contrast to the last-
named is the

Rock Bindweed (Convolvulus mauritanicu9),
but it is another valuable autumn plant, being
still in respectable bloom after ten weeks of
incessant flowering. One strong plant of it has
grown for many years on a bit of rough, stony
bank, and when some scores of its pretty grey-
blue flowers are open in the sunshine it is greatly
admired. The point is to give it a suitable
position, and none is better than a eloping, rocky
bank in full sun, where this S. European plant
will establish itself as a hardy perennial. On
the level border it grows luxuriantly, but does
not flower so well, and Beldom survives the
winter.

Senecio pulcher, about which conflicting
opinions hare been expressed in the gardening
papers, has bloomed well, and deserves a good
position and careful culture, which, as it hap¬
pened, it did not get here, for the plants beiDg
somewhat overgrown by their neighoours, were
overlooked until the tall heads of strong buds
made themselves conspicuous. Inch-long cut¬
tings of the fleshy white roots, set thickly in a
pan and placed on the sunny shelf of a green¬
house, soon develop into nice young plants, and
where it does not succeed out-of-aoors it may
be grown successfully in pots. All such hardy
plants which are intended to bloom in the
greenhouse should bo set in the open air during
summer, with their roots kept cool by having
the pots sunk in a bed of coal ashes and care¬
fully watered, especially during dry weather,
with liberal doses of soot water. So managed,
I have found this handsome Groundsel do good
service when flowers were beginning to get
scarce for the greenhouse.

Piiygelius capensis, though formerly over¬
rated in gardening publications as an orna¬
mental plant, and, consequently, somewhat of
a disappointment in actual experience, ha9
nevertheless established itself so thoroughly in
its quarters in the rectory garden that it would
he missed from its place were a hard winter to
take it. And it has this precious trait, that it
is fresh and fair as ever now, opening new
flowers on its young growths, though Novem¬
ber’s fogs and frosts are upon us. Near
by it grows a dainty little shrub for the autumn
garden, the Rock Abelia (A. rupestris). Yet
now seldom is it met with. It is growing here
againBt a wall; hut if a position just suited to
it can be chosen,-it would do best planted on a
sloping b*D&, for its slender, wiry branchlets
are inclined to trail, and its white.* tubular
flowers, set off by numerous reddish bracts, are
somewhat pendulous. Anyhow, it is charming,
and it makes also a good basket plant for a cool
greenhouse, for which purpose young plants are
best suited. Slips taken off with a “heel”
strike readily without artificial heat under a
bell-glass.

Another desirable shrub for a small garden is
the spreading St. John’s Wort (Hypericum
patulum), which, when covered with a pro¬
fusion of its cup-shaped yellow flowers, set off
by their tasselled stamens, is seldom overlooked
by the most careless passer-by. A few minutes
spent now and then upon snipping off the dead
flowers much prolongs its blooming season.
Against a wall the rosy purple blooms of
Salvia Bbthelli make a fine :show. Here
has survived more than one winter in the open
border without even that protection, but it is
worth a sheltered place if only for the sake of its
rich velvet-green foliage and purple stems ; but
it also remains in fine bloom until mid-October.
The old favourite, S. patens, whose rich, rare
blue has hardly an equal amongst hardy plants,
save, perhaps, amongst the lowly Gentians,
hardier still, and has remained in the same
bed undisturbed for several years. A good top-
dressing is all that is needed to keep the tubers
safe and sound from year to year. A sturdy
plant of

Bruomansia sanguinea is in grand bloom in
the open border, having been in the same spot
some four or five seasons. Every year when
frost cuts it down itis treated to a heap of ashes,
through which the great shoots pierce up in the
spring. Two or three moderately hard white
frosts have left it unscathed, and it is one of
1;hn freshest. and handsomest of garden shrubs
Jin thjMg luti October dayj . jTuberous Begonias

M "BAWA-CHAMPA[GN

i

Nov. 15, 1884]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

443

are much in favour at the present time for the
outdoor garden, but the fine hardy

Begonia Veitchii, with large orange scarlet
flowers, is not often grown. A plant of it at
the foot of a warm wall has done remarkably
well this autumn. It was planted out early in
18S3, and had the advantage of a very mild
winter to start with. This season it has made
good growth, flowered well, and ripened seed,
being a natural species from the Peruvian
highlands, it possesses more iutercst than
hybrids, and is, besides, strikingly handsome
both in leaf and flower.

Autumn Cyclamens have been wondrously
full of bloom, and their grey, mottled leaves
promise as much pleasure during the winter as
their soft pink and white flowers have given for
the last month. Tubers give us some of our
best flowers, and Tropieolum tuberosum is no
exception. It has been grand for the past two
months, lighting up and draping the rough
hurdling where it grows with its wreathed
festoons of scarlet and orange, and clambering
elsewhere over trees and shrubs with the per¬
fection of grace. Everyone who sees it begs for
a root, and, as it yields tubers by the peck, where
many plants of it are grown it is not difficult to
comply. But it does not succeed everywhere—
in Ireland, for example—or it would not be so
frequently discarded. An exposure neither too
sunny nor too shady suits it best, and where it
does well it is the choicest of autumn climbers.
While on the subject of

Climbers, a w'ord of praise must not be with¬
held from Clematis coccinea. As yet not gene¬
rally known, and in many instances mismanaged
when first grown through ignorance of its hardi¬
ness, this fine climber has not found rapid favour.
Yet that it is fine all who have given it
a fair trial, and have got it fully established out-
of-doors, will, I think, be ready to acknowledge.
The beautiful deep rose of its urn-shaped
closed flower is very pleasing, and in its slender
habit and glaucous leaf colouring it is altogether
uncommon-looking. We have it here trained
against a grey lichen-covered larch-pole fence,
and it has taken kindly to the position, show¬
ing no sign of mildew, which, in common with
other kinds of Clematis, is apt to attack it.
Another member of the same family, C. graveo-
len 3 , though not showy, is very elegant in
growth, and especially in fruit—the feathery
awns having a silvery sheen in the sunlight
which gives a charming effect. An arrange¬
ment of these shining Beed-vessels, set in the
crimsoned leaves of the small Virginian Creeper,
forms a lovely candle-light bouquet, especially
suited for the decoration of the dinner table.

Most of the Honeysuckles are good, but the
late flowering Dutch variety, with its globular
heads of crimson and cream-coloured flowers,
followed by bunches of bright scarlet berries,
bears away the palm. It is especially valuable
from giving a second later bloom after the first is
over, thus carrying on its season well into the fall.
Other Honeysuckles of the fragrant twin- flowered
Japanese kinds have fruited well this year,
and their slender pendant branches have been
thickly threaded with their black, bead-like
berries, which does not always happen. Strange
to say, contrary to the experience of former
years, a strong-grown plant of Passion-flower
(P. ccerulea) has not given us a single blossom.
Throughout the season complaints and questions
as to the cause of such failures in other gardens
have appeared again and again. Is it the result
of the hot, dry summer, or of want of judicious
pruning ? Probably the latter. Autumn brings
a great store of flowering Lily-worts and Irids.
Some of the

Torch Lilies (Tritoma) are valuable, especi¬
ally for distant effects. Two-year-old seedlings
of T. Saundersi have been very fine. This new
species blooms earlier than the better-known
T. Uvaria, and is a bold, handsome plant. The
beautiful dwarf T. Macowani, which scarcely
reaches 18 inches, should be grown wherever
a warm, sheltered position can be allotted to it.
Unfortunately it has not proved quite so hardy
here as some others, but it makes a good pot
plant when treated liberally and given frame
shelter in the winter. All the species
seem to be easily raised and quickly
flowered from seed. Throughout August and
September the Tiger Iris ( figridia Pavonia)
flaunts its gay colours an.ew'-each morning, and
we canno’5 do without it! scarlet^ nr. £oWL jO’Pen
though its sweet white sfftee# Aries haf&tJoNvin

away our allegiance. These live and thrive in
our dry soil, year after year, without removal,
except for the sake of division. Care must be
taken, however, that they are not overgrown
by more rampant neighbours, as they need all
the light and sunshine they can get. A little
later in the season than these last the Meadow
Saffrons (Colchicums) lift their modest heads,
and should always have greensward to pierce
through. Herniaria glabra makes a suitable
turf when it is needful to grow them in the
border. The best time for moving Colchicums
seems to be at the moment the foliage has turned
el low, but has not yet died down. Then the
ulbs lift bright and clean, and receive no check.
This question of the right time for the moving
of bulbs is an interesting one to all gardeners,
and has lately been much discussed. To all who
have not grown the double white and double
lilac varieties, let me commend them for
trial. For harvest festival decoration, placed
in Moss, especially for the edge of the
font and small windows, the pure white
tasselled flowers are most effective. A host of
flue Crocuses, including the beautiful blue
C. speciosus, with its orange-fringed stamens,
bloom in the late autumn. They are little
grown—more’s the pity ; but all need, in the
absence of their own foliage, to spring from
verdure of Borne kind, and perhaps nothing is
better than the Grass when they can be planted
where the mowing-machine will play no havoc
with their tardy green. The same drawback of
want of foliage belongs to the queen of autumn
Amaryllids, the Belladonna Lily. Various
Ians are adopted to relieve the effect of the tall
ower heads rising leafless from the bare earth.
In one garden I know a background is supplied
by the dense green of the small-leaved Myrtle,
trained against the wall of the greenhouse
where the Lily border is situated. A recent
excellent suggestion is to plant along with the
Lilies tubers of the Italian Arum for the
sake of congruous foliage when the Lilies
are in bloom. The Belladonnas here are
blooming very late. The first spike did
not begin to push up until September 25,
and now they are in full beauty. A
brighter, fresher corner than where they grow
could scarcely be found anywhere on this
1st of November. A background of an ever¬
green winter Honeysuckle, with some fine
bushes in full flower of the fennel-leaved Paris
Daisy, close by, a large clump of Schizostylis
coccinea coming into fine bloom, and beyond,
again, a robust young seeding of Celsia cretica,
which possibly the long-continued bright
weather has prematurely forced, but which,
with numerous flowering stems little more than
2 feet high, is remarkably welcome and gay.
These, with the tall pink and white Lily
clusters, form a little late autumnal garden-
plot, undesigned as it happens, which is a per¬
petual delight, because amidst thickly-falling
leaves and the rustle of withered stems and
fading flowers everywhere about, just here the
seal of death has not as yet been set. But
while Violets are blooming by myriads, and pale
pink monthly Hoses and fresh buds of Gloire
de Dijon open every day, while bright stars of
Jessamine are open here and there upon the
bud-laden boughs, and Anemones are pushing
up leaves and flowers everywhere in the borders,
why should we complain that some of the
flowers are falling asleep for weariness, when
there are signs all around us that others are
awakening to life again, and that the cycle of
the year is beginning anew ? K. L. D.

HOUSE & WINDOW GARDENING.

THE BEST WINDOW PLANTS.

It is, unfortunately, a fact that of the large
number of flowering and fine-leaved plants in
cultivation comparatively few are well fitted
for a lengthened residence in rooms, more
especially those which are constantly heated
and used during the winter months. The
reason for this is obvious, but is not so much
borne in mind as it should be by would-be
window gardeners. In the first place the
atmospheric conditions are so frequently entirely
out of harmony with the requirements of the
plants, and then again the amount of light
they get is, in a general way, quite out of
proportion to what they get in a state of nature;
still, with care, much may be done to counteract

these adverse conditions, and any of the fol ow -
ing may be grown for years in an ordiniry
living room :—

Aspidistra lurida. —I place this at the head
of the list, a position which it merits by reason
of its really wonderful ability to withstand a
vitiated atmosphere and draught. It really
appears to be almost impervious to those
changes of temperature, which so surely under¬
mine the constitution of many plants commonly
grown in rooms. What renders this plant so
well adapted for window culture is the fact of
its not extending upwards from year to year.
In this respect it is like Ferns, but instead of
the leaves springing from a crown they come
from a creeping rootstack, which extends
laterally but slowly, so that the plant forms a
dense mass of foliage which is of great sub¬
stance and of deep rich green hue. There is
also a handsome variegated variety which
grows in the same manner, but which is not
so vigorous. These Aspidistras are extremely
popular on the Continent, especially in Germany,
nurserymen and market growers there finding a
difficulty in obtaining a sufficient quantity of
them, as they cannot be raised from cuttings, or
from seed, but only by division, always a Blow
process of increasing a plant of any kind.

Drac.ena congesta and rubra. —I give the
second place to these as they combine great
power of resistance with considerable elegance
of growth. Hundreds of thousands of them are
grown by the Paris market growers, and I often
feel great surprise at not often seeing them in
windows. I have frequently seen them in
Covent Garden, but by the dozen only where
I Bhould have expected to find them by
the thousand. They have both green leaves
thickly set upon slender stems, and which
arch gracefully, those of congesta being of a
darker hue, whilst in habit it is more Blender
and grows taller. They grow freely when
treated liberally, but they bear real restric¬
tion well, remaining in good health for several
years without change of soil if well watered in
hot weather. A little clear soot water now and
then does them good, keeping the foliage green
and healthy, whilst not much exciting growth.
These green-leaved kinds are much more satis¬
factory than the red-leaved ones, which seldom
have other than a weary, suffering look when
grown in the dwelling.

Aralia trifoliata.—I mention this, although

I fear that few of your readers will be able to
obtain it. As a fact it is but little known in
England, although very highly valued in Ger¬
many and Switzerland. It is of upright elegant
growth, the serrated trifoliate leaves being
paired on slender footstalks. The whole of the
plant is of an intensely rich green, and the leaves
are so hard as almost to defy ill-usage. It is a
most valuable plant, and I cannot understand
why its merits have not yet been recognised
with us. It should be grown like Grevillea
robusta, by the thousand. It is rather slow of
growth—an advantage in the case of room
plants—and is hard of propagation from cut¬
tings, so that even abroad it is comparatively
scarce. In the Villa Berg Gardens at Stuttgart
W'e had a large plant which annually bore seeds
in quantity, so that any amount of them ought
to be procurable from their native country.
Once known it would be one of the most popular
of decorative plants.

Grevillea robusta. —This is now well
known, and is one of the most pleasing fine
foliage plantB in cultivation, being of erect
growth and abundantly clothed with much
divided drooping Fern-like foliage ; it forms a
very pleasing object in the window or cool house
either alone or in association with other things.

II is one of the most popular plants amongst
the London florists, but has, however, one
defect, that of casting quickly the lower leaves,
and it grows rather too rapidly.

Acacia lophantha. — A popular window
plant this, and often seen in good condition. It
is a most graceful plant and extremely easy to
grow, but require the open air through the
summer, or it goes yellow. When it gets too
big it may be cut back, and then forms a bushy
head.

Trumpet Lily (Calla rethiopica). — I
must give this well known plant a prominent
place, it is so effective and so easily managed.
All that it requires is a cool place in summer in
the open and plenty of water, then it grows like
a weed and flowers grandly.

444

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vallota ruRPUREA. —A complete contrast
to the foregoing in colour, the flowers being of
a glowing scarlet. It is an extremely tine
window plant, as it does not demand a maxi¬
mum of light through the winter. The great
secret is to get the pot free of roots ; not shift
more than once in three or four years. Give
but very little water in winter, and plenty in
summer. There is no more elegant plant in
cultivation than this Scarborough Lily, and
everyone should grow it.

Aloe variegata (Partridge-breasted Aloe).—
Also an old inhabitant of English gardens ; but
now held in but little respect. It has great
powers of endurance, has prettily marbled foli¬
age, and throws up early in spring a graceful
spike of bright red flowers. Very easily grown,
requiring plenty of air, and all the sun it can
get in summer, and very little water in winter.
Good for a constantly heated room where but
little will grow.

Saxifraga s ar MENTOS a (Wandering Jew
Saxifrage).—Nearly everyone knows this, but
not everyone grows it properly. Well cared
for and grown in a basket it forms a drooping
mass of marbled foliage, which has all through
the year quite a charming appearance. The
flowers, though small, are extremely elegant in
form.

Otuonna crassifolia. —This is a little
known plant, but is excellent for a very sunny
window. It is of drooping habit, forming a
thick curtain of succulent, Sedum-like foliage.
The flowers are small, but of a bright yellow
and numerously produced.

Ckreus flagelliformis (Rob-shaped or
Cat’a-tail Cactus).—The most elegant growing
of the Cactus tribe, and possessing the merit of
bearing beautiful flowers, thus combining quaint¬
ness of form with effectiveness. The growths
are slender, in the case of old specimens droop¬
ing down quite 2 feet, and are thickly set
with tawny, glistening spines. The flowers are
long, slender, elegantly formed, of a bright rose
colour, with a bunch of yellow stamens pro¬
jecting from them, and are thrust out from the
upper portion of the shoots. It takes some time
to obtain a large plant, but once you have it it
is a joy for ever. It scarcely demands culture,
requiring only plenty of sun and air in summer,
occasional watering, and may remain in the
same pot for years. Must be suspended.

Panicum varif.gatum. —This is a prettily
variegated Grass, the prevailing colour being
white, with a tinge of red. It makes an excel¬
lent hanging basket for a warm room, requiring
plenty of light and a fair share of air in summer.
If grown in a cool room in winter it turns
yellow.

Coronilla glauca. —Few flowering plants
are more fitted for window culture than this.
It is almost hardy in our climate, and is, there¬
fore, only fitted for cool rooms, doing best where
no fire is made. It is neat of habit, covers
itself with bright yellow flowers in its season,
and must go into the open for the summer. It
will thrive and bloom for years in a small pot if
well watered and gets a little manurial stimu¬
lant when growing. Requires pruning back a
little after flowering, so as to keep it in shape.

Platvcerium alcicorne (Stag’s-horn Fern).—

1 flatter myself that, in finding out the value of
this Fern for window culture, I have made
something of a discovery, for I have never in
any gardening periodical seen it recommended
for that purpose. For several years I grew a
plant of it in a living room where a duplex lamp
is burnt and a fire constantly maintainea
through the winter, and where the air is, of
course, very dry. It did remarkably well, not
only living but growing so freely that it got too
large for the place. This is the quaintest and
most distinct of all Ferns, the fronds being of
great substance, of a rich dark green, and
divided at the top into two unequal parts.
From the point where the fronds spring a
curious shield-like growth issues, which, spread¬
ing downwards, clasps and covers a portion of the
soil, thus rendering itquite distinct fromall other
Ferns, with the exception of the other members of
the genus. This Fern ought to be grown in a
basket, but it will do very well in a pot, using
lumpy peat, and keeping the crown of the plant

2 inches above the level of the pot so as to
admit of the development of the “ shield.”

Ficus elastica (India Rubber).—Many will
think that I am doing "this plant, iin justice in
thus leaving U to tlj gjaf ^lfit, ikHcu^h by far

the noblest of window plants, it requires a little
more care than the generality of them, and is
very apt to lose its bottom leaves. I would
advise those who procure it to see that it is well
established in the pot, then there is not so much
danger of the roots going wrong, which is nearly
always the case of the foliage dropping. In
winter be very careful in watering, not doing
so unless the soil is almost dry.

Palms. —These are noted for their elegant
growth, and some of them are really good room
plants, resisting for a lengthened period the
confined and impure atmosphere. The best of
them is, I think, Chamierops excelsa ; at any
rate, it is by far the hardiest, being grown in the
open air in many parts of England. Kentia
Canterbury ana and Corypha australis are two of
the best, and Areca lutescens is a very elegant
habited kind, and one which, on account of its
erect, rather slender growth, is well fitted for
window culture. Palms may be grown for
several years in the same pots, but the soil must
not become dry in the growing time, and clear
soot water should be given twice a week.—
J. C., By fleet. , ,

ALYSSUM MARITIMUM. ‘

This is an elegant little plant for a hanging-
basket, or for edgings of small vases, &c. It
can be easily propagated by means of cuttings
of the young growth ; and if planted in any

Alyssum maritimum as a window plant.

ordinary good soil, with plenty of sand added,
it will flower profusely all through the summer.
We have seen it mixed with Lobelia speciosa
with excellent effect. It requires a warm sunny
window and plenty of water.

Plants In rooms. —The health of plants
grown in constantly heated rooms in a great
measure depends «pon the care taken to Keep
the foliage clean. In a glasshouse there is never
much dust floating in the air, whereas in a
living room there is always a great deal, and
this, though scarcely visible to the naked eye,
suffices to choke every pore of the leaves of any
plant growing therein. Every plant grown in
a constantly frequented apartment should get
a tepid bath twice a week, carefully washing
both the upper and under side of the leaves ;
or, if the foliage is much divided, it should be
syringed. It is wonderful the difference in the
appearance of plants which get this loving
attention, and such as lack it; the hue of health
will adorn the former, whilst the latter wear a
weary, suffering look. It is often said that a
grooming is worth a feed of corn to the horse,
and I feel sure that in the growing season a
thorough cleansing will often benefit a plant
more than several doses of liquid manure. It
must be borne in mind that plants in rooms
have to struggle against many adverse influ¬
ences, and that they therefore need more atten¬
tion both in the matter of cleanliness and
watering than those more favourably situated.

[Nov. 15, 1884

The greatest care should be exercised in water- .
ing, so that the soil does not become close and ,
sour, as if the roots can be kept in a thoroughly
active condition the top will not be so likely to
go wrong. During the winter, when there is
but little movement of the sap, the soil should
nearly dry out before water is given. If pans
are used, and any moisture collects in them,
empty it immediately. Success in window
gardening much depends upon the size and
aspect of the windows. Those that project
from the building are, of course, the best,
and whoever possesses such may expect
to grow plants with a considerable amount
of success; indeed, many things appear
to do almost or quite as well in them as under
a glass roof. An east aspect is the best for most
things, as there they get the early beams of the
morning sun and escape its fiercest rays. The
grand mistake that many make is in supposing
that they can grow certain plants in a window
all through the year and keep them in perfect
health. There are some fine-leaved plants that
can be kept in the dwelling the year through
without injury, but the great majority of
flowering plants which it is the delight of the
many to cultivate must have an outing in the
free open air during the warmest months of
the year. Geraniums turning yellow, Fuchsia
buds dropping, and other evils complained of
so frequently in Gardening, are caused by want
of “tone,” brought on by the enervating influ¬
ence of a too-confined and vitiated atmosphere.
In a dwelling-house the ventilation is neces¬
sarily regulated by the feelings and needs of the
inhabitants, and as these are not always in
accord with those of the plants the latter
suffer. It is rooms constantly occupied to
which I now refer ; in others the needs of the
plants can be made the primary consideration,
and by giving abundance of air in fine weather,
plants will grow and flower well in them
through the summer. Living rooms, on the
contrary, must be considered merely in the
light of winter storehouses, and from the end of
June to the middle of September flowering
plants should pass most of their time where
they are subjected to the bracing influences of
night dews and the summer sun and breeze.—
J. Cornhill, Byfleet . /

Stones In soil. —Some people on every
occasion when opportunity offers take pains to
remoye all the stones they can see from the soil
in their gardens. Perhaps it might not be too
much to say that nine times in ten mischief is
done rather than good by the practice. Stones
in soil serve more than one useful purpose.
When laying on the surface they act as a mulch,*
checking evaporation. Their slow decay, and
disintegration by the frost and the action of the
elements contribute to the replacement of the
food extracted from the soil by the roots of
plants. When the staple of the soil is a stiff
clay their action is particularly beneficial, as
they break up its coherency and modify its
texture. Professor Wrightson, in his handbook
of “Agriculture,” says:—“Many soils now
worked as light lands would be unworkable clay
were they not lightened up and divided by
countless stones.” It is true light stony soils
soon dry up, the water easily percolating
through them, and, the subsoil being generally
of the same character, water is soon drained
away. Further, stones absorb no moisture, the
amount of moisture absorbed by the soil being
in the inverse ratio (other things being equal)
to the quantity of stones it contains. But re¬
moving the stones will not remedy the evil.
That would not add to the stock of moisture,
neither would their removal increase the quan¬
tity of plant food nor enlarge the extent of root
room. With regard to the last-mentioned par¬
ticular, the only effect of the removal of the
stones would be to make the soil shallower.
There is yet another office performed by stones
in the soil. By breaking its continuity it
checks capillarity on the upward motion of its
moisture to the surface, thereby indirectly re¬
tarding evaporation. Howbeit, if the subsoil
contained materials of sufficient quantity and
suitable to the end, and it were practicable by
deep trenching with the removal of the stones
to form a soil of sufficient depth and of suitable
textureJEor the healthy, vigorous growth of
plants, then the carrying out oi the operation
might prove %n advantage. - -L. ^

INov.: 15* 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

445

l>at-of-

FORTUNE’S SAXIFRAGE.

During a few weeks in the latter part of
autumn there are not many plants that flower
so prettily as Saxifraga Fortunei, an old plant
in botanic gardens, though one comparatively
little known in a general way. It is one of
those plants that cannot be strictly called
hardy, yet it is not really tender. In some
localities in the southern counties it may be
grown successfully with other hardy perennials,
and in light soils, even if killed by frost, it
will shoot up again in the spring. As a general
rule, however, it is best to treat it as a pot
plant, more particularly as it flowers on the
verge of winter when rains and winds are apt
to spoil the beauty of its delicate spikes of
flowers. It is a handsome plant, even when
out of flower, the foliage being large for a
Saxifrage, of thick fleshy texture and of a very
deep green, which shows off to the best advan¬
tage the myriads of white flowers which it
bears. Well-grown pot plants bear spikes as
much as 18 inches in height, but out-of-doors it
does not usually exceed half that height. The
reddish bracts with which the flower-stems are
furnished add to the
attractiveness of the
plant at flowering
time. Its culture in
the open air is a
simple matter, as it
merely requires to
be planted in li^ht, ^
rich, well-drained
soil, such as may bo
found on all well-
made rockeries. It
is partial to shade
and delights in
plenty of moisture
while in active
growth. Pot plants
need more atten¬
tion ; they may be
either raised from
seeds or propagated
by 'division of the
rootstock. Seedlings
make best plants.

The seed should be.
sown in spring, and
as soon as the plants
are large enough to
handle they should
be picked off in
pans in much the
same way as such
plants as tuberous
Begonias are treat¬
ed. From this stage .
they require to be
constantly shifted v
into pots larger and
larger until they
reach the flowering
stage, which will be
by theautumn,when

they should be in either 4^-inch or G inch pots.
A quantity of plants of this size would be
found invaluable to those who require showy
plants for conservatory and room adornment,
and for vases and jardinieres they are particu¬
larly suitable.

The annexed illustration was sketched in
Mr. nYfarp’g nursery,, at Tottenham, in the
♦•bird .week in. October. The plant, one of
e finest we have eyer seen in the open air,
a« growing in a snug nook in the rock garden,
nestled beneath the shelter of a bush, with
on either side of it, so that it was corn-
protected from the weather. ‘ if grown
-doors such a place as this is just* what
pl&nt requires.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 434 )

The Culture of Vegetables.

During the last thirty years much has been *
done to popularise and advance the culture of
vegetables, and various influences and agencies
are now carrying on the good work, chief among
these being the cheap horticultural press and
the numerous horticultural and cottage garden
societies which are spreading into almost every
parish. Nothing but good can come from the 1
impetus which has beeu given to vegetable
culture, I might say horticulture, generally.

The Site

Of the vegetable garden should be open to the
south, but sheltered from the north and east,
and if it has any inclination it should be to the
southward. A sandy loam, not too light, is the
best soil for gardens generally, as when culti¬
vated and manured such a soil will grow any¬
thing. I am aware, of court e, there are
hundreds of gardens where no choice exists,
and the best has to be made of an inferior site.
There is no land so good but it may be made

Salvia rutilans. —Of this beautiful winter
species, popularly called the Pine-
scented Salvia, some fine specimens have
etn sent to us. This Sage is in the way of the
*]l-known S. coccinea, the flowers being
crnson, and produced in long slender spikes.
1 is a continuous flowerer, inasmuch as the
nun spikes are succeeded by others, which
fijtatly prolong the beauty of the plant. The
i /oGage ba* a scent somewjia^ like that o£ the
i^nse-apple, and it is. morebver, a very
% f itter flowering greenhouJkS^P*"

Fortune’s Saxifrage (Saxifraga Fortune!).

better, and none so bad but it may be improved
by steady, persistent effort. I kpew a kitchen
garden in the Midlands which was, some
twenty-five years ago, taken from the middle of
a piece of heavy clay land, and, though better
land could be had in the neighbourhood on the
Bame estate, the site could not be changed ; but,
nothing daunted, the gardener set to work to
adopt ev§ry^ expedient which his experience
could suggest in the,way of improvement. The
garden was a large one, and for years the work
of regeneration r went on—trepchiDg and burn¬
ing, with the addition of anything and every¬
thing which would decay and enrich or lighten
the cold, heavy mass. I need not say that
draining 4 feet deep, the drains IS feet apart, was
the first thing set about, and the set of drains
when not carrying out water were circulating
air, and its tendency would be beneficial, though
its effect might not be visible appreciably. I
have no doubt in my own mind there is a great
future for vegetable culture. The time is
coming when vegetables will play a more im¬
portant part in feeding the people. With a
growing intelligence in the masses the effect of
vegetables and fruit upon health will be better
understood. When this period arrives, if not
before ; the vegetables and fruit gardens will be
separated, to the manifest advantage of both.
In the majority of situations the deep rooting

of fruit trees is a thing to be discouraged, but
the average cultivator, who mixes his fruit and
vegetables together, if he digs his land at all,
must drive down the roots of the fruit trees.
It would be more profitable to keep the fruits
and vegetables separate. There are the bush
fruits to form a bottom growth if tall trees are
planted. Besides, to the thinking man who
knows something of vegetable physiology and
the value of good leaves and roots, and how the
two work together harmoniously when not
crossed by the disarranging efforts of man, there
must crop up in his mind.this thought—“ How
excessively absurd it is to plant vegetables which
delight in an open, sunny situation, beneath the
shade of trees, and at the same time destroy the
best roots of the trees—those roots upon which
continued fertility depends—by the frequent
disturbance of the soil.” The average English¬
man delights in a compromise, but there is no
necessity for such a compromise as this, neither
has it &Dy value, except for those whose aspira¬
tions do not soar above a very commonplace
mediocrity. The vegetable garden, then, if we
were making a new one, Bhould be in an open
situation, and no fruit trees should be planted
in the vegetable
quarters. 1 should
prefer to work the
fruits and vege¬
tables as distinct
features, and if I
yielded to compro¬
mise at all it should
be only so far as to
permit a border for
dwarf trees or pyra¬
mids on each side of
the central walk.
There might be
double rows on each
side, but even then
the fruit trees should
be near enough to
each other to occupy
all the grdund as
they grow up, so
that nodiggiug with
the spade would be
required amongst
them to drive down
the roots. On deep,
warm soils deep¬
rooting does less
injury, but even
then roots working
away from the in¬
fluence of the sun¬
shine are not of
much value.

Assuming, then,
we have a piece of
laud in an open field
we wish to make
into a vegetable
garden. In the first
t place, does it re-

3 uire draining ? If
do it efficiently.
The question may, has, in fact, often
been asked, How shall we know when
land wants draining? The experienced man
can often tell by the wild plants growing upon
it. If they belong to a section fond of mois¬
ture, and if in addition to this we sink a hole 3
feet deep, and at anytime during the winter half-
year water stands in a stagnant condition at the
bottom of the hole, the land requires draining,
and less than 3£ feet deep will be of no use. The
distances the drains are to be apart will depend
upon the nature of the soil, but no hard or fast
line must be laid down. If the vegetable
garden is taken from the field, the boundary
fence will require some consideration. I sup¬
pose no one for a mere vegetable garden would
build a wall, as a good hedge is warmer, and
if well managed it will soon form a good pro¬
tection.

Hollies and Thorns.

The former makes a hedge which will be a
joy for ever if well managed. Plant on a raised
mound in a single row bushy plants, as nearly
as possible of one strength, from 12 to 15 inches
apart. I have said plant on mounds, but. the
ground on the sides of the hedges should form
a sloping border for *arly vegetables—at least,
on all aspects but the north, and even there
depth of wOf bqt

44(5

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 15, 1884.

summers. The greater the slope given to these
borders the better it will be. if soil has to be
taken from other parts of the garden to make
these raised borders, even then, the advantages
secured will outweigh the trouble incurred.
Next to the Holly as a hedge plant is the White
Thorn, and, indeed, the Thorn forms a good
hedge in less time than the Holly, as the latter
is notoriously a slow plant in starting. Once
get it well established in a suitable position,
and it goes ahead rapidly, but at first it is a
slow grower. Deepening the soil in the way I
have suggested will cause the Holly or any
other plant which may be used to form a
boundary fence to grow with more vigour. If
the Holly hedge be planted on the crown of a
ridge 2 feet high, the shelter to the garden will
soon be appreciated, especially as- regards the
early crops growing on the southern slopes.
These slopes or borders should not be less than
12 feet wide, and their value in the production
of all early crops will be immense.

Walks and Edgings.

If the question of vegetable culture be looked
at simply from a utilitarian point of view,
expensively constructed walks or edgings are
unnecessary, and in point of fact I would rather
leave the walks an open question to be settled
by each one for himself. If permanent edgings
must be used I should prefer doad edgings to
living ones, as the latter often harbour slugs, &c.,
and are expensive to keep in good condition. In
the case of all large vegetable gardens aroad wide
enough for a cart should be made down the centre
for the purpose of carting on manure, &c.; and
this road should be gravelled and kept in good
repair. The other paths may be strips of Grass
turf, 4 feet wide, for the convenience of
laying out the ground into beds or quarters to
suit the requirements of each crop. If a
vegetable garden be properly laid out, and well
cultivated and cropped, it will be full of interest
to all those who give, or wish »to give, any
thought to such matters. For a vegetable
garden of this character some of the neat
habited vegetables, such as Beet, Curled Kale,
Parsley, &c., will do for edgings. A very
effective edging may be had by planting a row
of Parsley outside next the path, and three rows
of Beet next, and beyond that may come a
bi eak of Brussels Sprout, or any other vegetable.
Any land under cleanly culture, and bearing
good crops, forms a pleasant sight, and a walk
among beds of Onions, Carrots, Parsnips, Beet,
Cauliflowers, Asparagus, Celery, &c., inter¬
sected by long rows of Peas, all full of healthful
vigour, is calculated to give pleasure to a
rightly constituted mind, even if there be no
formal walks and edgings.

Trenching and Manuring.

There is not, there cannot be, any comparison
between the crops grown on deeply-worked
land and on that which is only surface-scratched.
This difference will be more marked in un¬
favourable seasons. A cold spring ora hot dry
summer has less effect upon the well-worked
land, as the well-nourished plant can withstand
hardships better than the starveling. But one
need not nowadays use many arguments to
prove a deeply-worked soil is the best. The
only valid excuse I have ever heard urged
against it is the want of time or the scarcity of
labour. Few gardeners, I imagine, are in a
position to do all they would wish in this way.
Still, in the growth of vegetables, trenching the
land up deeply must form the groundwork of
all good culture ; and especially is this the case
where the supply of manure is inadequate. But
this, like all other matters of our daily exis¬
tence, should be regarded by the light of
common sense. Though trenching is beneficial,
it may be the reverse of beneficial to bring up
too much of the bad subsoil to the surface at
any one time. If the subsoil is clay be content
with bringing up a small quantity to the surface
each time, and when this becomes dry gather
the lumps together and burn them, spreading
the product over the land. But though it is
not wise to bring up the hungry soil to the top
in any great quantity, it should be well broken
up in the bottom of the trench with spade and
pick. Where trenching is done systematically
the depth is never less than 2 feet. The
modus operandi of trenching is verv simple. A
trench, say, ivouf 2^feed to .T-fefct'-jvide and
2 feet deep is operi od tli ekwi|fl|gl the land

which is to be trencWI, wheelLjfffltne soil to tho

same end of the other half, laying it in a ridge
where it is intended to finish, the bottom of
the trench is broken up with a pick, and the
top soil from the next space measured off
(which will, of course, be the same size),
and cast into the bottom. Trenching is best
done by men working in pairs. One man
digs off the top, and the other shovels up
the crumbs or loose mould. The first man
follows on with the second spit, and the second
clears up again, as before. But the second spit,
when the subsoil is bad, may be only a shallow
one, to avoid casting too much of the bad soil
on the top where the seeds have to be sown or
the plants dibbled in, as the case may be. This
is where the evil comes in, if too much of the
bad soil is placed on the top the seed-bed for
years to come may be made ungenial by in¬
judicious trenching.

Artificial Manure.

The question, “ What is manure?” may be
met by the further question, “What is not
manure ?” The truth is, all things which decay
have some inanurial value, and some things
which do not decay—such as sand, for instance
—may, from their mechanical action in lighten¬
ing heavy land, be as valuable as manure.
Artificial manures, or manufactured manures,
are very largely used by farmers. Their value
has long been recognised for pushing on a crop
in a difficult time. In this respect it seems to
me the farmers have stolen a march on the
gardeners, though, this reproach, if it be a re¬
proach, is being gradually removed. It often
happens that there is a greater need for economy
in gardens than is generally practised by
farmers. Everything in the shape of waste is
gathered up and converted into manure, and by
careful management and foresight it is possible
to gather together annually a very large heap
| of manure from the waste matters which are
daily accumulating. I need not enumerate them,
as all are familiar with the constant accumula¬
tions of what are called rubbish about a house and
garden in the country and in the suburbs of
towns, and the careful gardener in the manipu¬
lation of the rubbish heap very often secures an
equivalent for the farmer’s artificial manure. I
have often found the advantage of a free use of
the compost which has been manufactured out
of rubbish in covering all kinds of small seeds
in a wet, cold spring. Still, with all the aids
which economical management can obtain from
home products, there is yet room for the use of
artificials, both phosphatic and nitrogenous ;
but there is a science in manuring. Knowledge
is required to guide us in “ what to apply, how
to apply it, and when to apply it.” Sometimes
phosphates are required, at others nitrogen is
essential. Often a mixture of the two is more
beneficial than either alone, and there is a wide
; field here for experimental research ; in fact, a
series of carefully conducted experiments with
various artificial manures upon different soils
would have considerable value. It will be
understood that, as regards what manure to
apply, much must depend upon the character of
the soil, and the kind of crop growing upon it.
Phosphates may be beneficially applied to root
crops, such as Potatoes, Turnips, &c., whilst
nitrogenous manures will produce great effect
upon all the Brassica family, which are gross
feeders. Celery may be overfed, and if so will
bolt prematurely, or have hollow stalks. To
give Onions large size, with mild flavour,
nitrogen is necessary. Peas and Beans do
best on land in nice mellow condition
from previous manuring without much aid
from artificials, and what little help is given
should be in a mild form with liquid
manure. Artificials may be given to exhausted
fruit trees with advantage. I have used guano
on vine borders with considerable effect, but it
should not be applied too frequently, as in time
it acts injuriously upon the growth of foliage.
Exhausted Apple, Pear, Plum, and other fruit
trees may be watered with liquid manure made
from artificials, or such manure as Clay’s, Amies’,
&c., may be mixed with compost and applied as
a top-dressing. In the caso of old Apple and
other trees holes may be made with a crow-bar,
and the liquid dressing poured in two or three
times a day till the whole of the soil enclosing
the roots has been enriched. As regards when
to apply artificials, very muck judgment is re¬
quired, or the application may turn out useless.
If applied in dry weather, or when the soil is
very dry, most of tho artificial manures, from

their volatile nature, will fail in producing the
desired result. They are best applied when
the soil is damp, and when more rain is ex¬
pected, or if given in dry localities water first
with clear pond water, then give the manure,
following up with another dressing of clear
water to carry the manure to the roots. As
regards

Tiie Application of Yard Manures, which
must after all form the basis of all good cul¬
ture—and under this category, so far as gardens
are concerned, I include old hotbeds, which are
so common in gardens—the first and chief
supply of manure to the garden comes from the
stables, the next in many instances arises
from the collection of tree leaves, and other
waste matters which can be gathered on the
place. If pigs are kept to consume the
waste vegetables, &c., that manure also
should belong to the garden. In the appli¬
cation of the manure to the land a great deal
depends upon the character of the soil. If
it be light, and of small holding capacity, the
manure should not be applied long before the
crop is planted, or the rains will carry its
strength away beyond the reach of the roots.
In dealing with such land it will be better to
mix the manure with some earthy compost,
w'hich will absorb the ammoniacal salts ; and
this should be applied just before the crop is
planted, placing it near where the roots will
shortly be working. When I had a light,
hungry soil to deal with, in planting such things
as Cauliflowers I found a great advantage in
digging holes for the plants, and placing some
of the manurial compost in the hole, and setting
the plant in it, making up the surface with the
earth taken out. Excellent results have been
obtained on light, hungry land in this way.
Heavy, retentive land may have the manure
carted on the land fresh from the stables, and
trenched in autumn. In the spring, after the
winter's exposure, the land will be in good con¬
dition for planting. E. Hobday.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Heaths. —The different varieties of winter
flowering Heaths are always effective when in
bloom, grouped as they usually are with other
plants in greenhouses and conservatories ; never¬
theless, when subjected to the treatment they
often receive, their cultivation is far from being
satisfactory, inasmuch as they frequently fail to
survive their first season of blooming. Similar
to the whole Erica family, they like cool, airy
treatment, with a position where they receive
plenty of light, in place of which when used in
conservatories that are kept above a greenhouse
temperature that at once has the effect of
starting them into growth, more especially if,
for appearance sake, they are stood in the body
of the house, crowded and overhung with other
plants. It is very much better to confine their
use to structures where a lower temperature is
maintained, and in all cases to keep them as
near the glass as possible, even if some little
sacrifice is made in the arrangement for general
effect. They should be frequently looked over
to see that they are free from mildew, for if this
attacks them, in a very few days so much of the !
foliage will be destroyed as to endanger their
existence. Dry flowers of sulphur is a safer 3
application at this season than syringing with 1
water impregnated with sulphur. Where spring
and summer flowering Heaths are grown, they
should be looked over for mildew every ten days ^
during moist weather. This is the more necessary *
after a cool, sunless summer, in which tho *
season’s growth has had less than the ordinary *
opportunity of getting fully hardened up. It is *
a pity that in so comparatively few places Heaths *
aro now included amongst the greenhouse plants, j
An impression often exists that even when b
required for homo decoration they must ne-
cessarily be subjected to the stiffly trained, ^
formal condition in which they are frequently-
seen on the exhibition stage. This is altogether
a mistake. Most of the many varieties now in' 1
cultivation are naturally of a compact, bushyf
habit, requiring lit,tip support from stakes amj
ties if the groundwork has been properly IrviJ
fifths °f the#:

. exiafcenpq.. Alter .this, when they have to be nf
fulcwcID tno'vfed about than from one home <

Nov, 1,3, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED '

447

another, very little support, with a total absence
of the formality present in highly-trained speci¬
mens, will suffice. But to arrive at this the
plants should be well cut back each season after
flowering. With a judicious selection of the
freest growing, vigorous kinds, a collection can
be kept up at a less cost than is often expended
on plants that do not possess half the beauty
and interest which they do. Anyone disposed to
begin the cultivation of these plants, or add to
the stock they already have, will And this a
better season to get them in than waiting until
spring, when the soft growth then present is
much more likely to get injured by packing and
transit. Where a house or pit is devoted to them
they should be kept well up to the glass and have
air admitted liberally every day when not frosty,
avoiding a direct draught on them as much as
possible by letting it in on the side opposite to
where the wind happens to be. For the next
three months the plants will require less water.
This applies more particularly to the hardest-
wooded, slowest-growing kinds.

Hard-wooded greenhouse plants. —Every¬
thing that is at all subject to the attacks of
mildew, such as the Boronias, Hedaromaa, &c.,
should from time to time be examined to see
that they are free from mildew and green fly, as
if once the foliage gets thinned by either vege¬
table or animal parasites it requires some time
to correct the bad effects.

Bulb forcing. — The last lot of Roman
Hyaciuths should now be put in heat, to give a
succession to such as were brought on earlier ;
at the same time a selection of the most forward
large flowered varieties'ought also to be put in
warmth, bringing them on gradually, as if at all
hurried, both the foliage and the flower-stems
will have a drawn, sickly appearance that goes
far to destroy their beauty. In all cases see
that plenty of roots have been formed before
they are submitted to heat.

Amaryllises. — It is not well to excite a
general collection or valuable sorts of these
handsome flowered bulbs so early as this by
subjecting them to heat, but where there is
likely to be a deficiency of flowers in the first
months of the year, a few of the commonest
kinds may be induced to move slowly by placing
them in an intermediate temperature, if
possible on a shelf near the roof, where there is
always a movement in the atmosphere that has
a counteracting effect to the weakening influ¬
ences of heat in the dull winter days.

Eucharts. —Some growers of the useful E.
amazonica fail to bloom it satisfactorily by the
usual treatment of growth, rest, and excite¬
ment. The cause of this will usually be found
in the growth never being fairly stopped
through the presence of combined heat and
moisture—too much to allow the necessary
cessation. When any difficulty in this way is
experienced, they can be made to flower by
turning them out of their pots, and shaking the
soil from the roots and repotting. This rarely
fails to induce strong bulbs to flower. With
some, E. Candida does not bloom so freely as
the older kind, but shaking out and sepa¬
rating has a like effect in inducing it to
flower. When better known this sort is likely
to be a general favourite, its smaller, more
elegant blooms being better adapted for some
purposes than those of E. amazonica.

Bouvardias.— Where a good stock of these
I is at hand in the shape of plants possessing the
full complement of vigour, there are few things
l that yield such a continuous supply of flowers.
I Where they have been grown on the planting-
1 out method in pits or frames during the summer
1 and taken up and potted some time ago, each
1 plant will have several shoots something like
1 IS inches or 20 inches long, and as thick at
1 the base as an ordinary pencil. Growth such
i ft as this will produce flowers from six to
i " eight joints below the leading points,
v I coming in in succession after the first arc
.<v 1 iver; out to brmg these up to their full size

; they must be kept in a brisk growing tem-
-perature close to the glass, so as to counteract
,w the effect of the warmth. Without this the
7r lowers will be soft and liable to flag when cut.
'\a Plants that have been grown on the planting-
vat system are better able to give a succession
rf full sized flowers than the weaker examples
^ Bsnlting from pot-growth all through the
season. Such as are cultivated in the lattel* way
7 1 nfcould be regularly suppted vritft na nfcijejwifer
, once every ten days or fomngntf otnOT’lfisethe

successional bloom will be weak and poor ; this
is especially the case if much restricted at the
roots. There is nothing like l>eginning early in
the propagation of Bouvardias. In most cases
winter-struck cuttings are quite as satisfactory
for blooming the following autumn and winter
as are ciit-back older stock. It is now time to
prepare a few plants of each of the varieties
grown for producing cuttings. This is best done
by drying them off much in the way that old
examples of Fuchsia are done for the winter,
so as to stop all growth and cause most of the
leaves to fall off. When subjected to this kind
of treatment in a little warmth above that of an
ordinary greenhouse for about six weeks, all the
soft green portion of the points of the shoots
should be cut away, giving water and placing the
plants in a brisk, growing temperature, where
they will break growth from almost every eye.
When the young shoots are from 1£ inches to
2 inches long, if taken off with a heel and put
in heat, they will strike almost as freely as
Verbenas.

Flower Garden.

Except the usual routine duties connected
with the maintenance of neatness, there is now
nothing that demands immediate attention, but
for all that the work should go on just the same
as if it were pressing or important; there will
then be no need to dread the arrival of the busy
season, as the work will be in advance of it. In
all gardens there is always some parts that can
be improved, and now is the time to set about
such work, and, by way of reminder to others,
it may be well to allude to our own doings at
the present time.

Roses. —The major part are being lifted, the
edgings of the beds cut, and the grounds deeply
trenched and heavily manured ; long, woody
roots are shortened back and suckers pulled off.
Re-planting is then done, and the beds are at
once thickly mulched—those in positions that
must look neat with Cocoa fibre, but where
appearance is of less consequence, with good
farmyard manure. Those who are intending to
increase their stock cannot do better-than plant
now. In some of the beds (not close to the
Roses) w'e have planted Tulips and Hyacinths,
and in others Violas, Daisies, Primroses, and
Forget-me-nots.

Herbaceous border.— Many of our plants
have outgrown their positions. Some have
spread to the injury of adjoining plants ; some
are too tall for their present places ; and so we
are lifting them all, and this will enable us to
prepare the^border thoroughly by trenching out
all the old roots and adding liberally both fresh
loam and manure. This done, the arrangement
of plants will be something after this fashion :
For the most part the tall growers will be in
groups of three plants at the back part of the
border, but there will be here and there a group
nearer the front, as uniformity * either as to
height or position seems put of character with
this class of plants. In the front part of the
border will be arranged the weaker growers;
these will be in groups also, and vary in number
from three to nine according to the varying
height and spread of the plants. This done so
far as plants and time to do it will allow, the
more naked spots both between and over such
plants as Lilies, Ptconies, and Funkias will be
carpeted with evergreen Sedums and other
suitable plants; and those portions of border
not so treated will be surfaced either with
finely sifted leaf-soil or Cocoa fibre. If there is
likely to be a scarcity of herbaceous subjects,
small evergreen Bhrubs, disposed at regular in¬
tervals throughout the border, may be used
with excellent effect, and of course can be
moved at any time that the herbaceous plants
need additional space. This, together with
regravelling of walks and planting a clump or
two of Rhododendrons, constitutes the whole of
our present doings in the flower garden.

Fruit.

Vines. —Houses from which all the fruit has
been cut may be left open night and day, as
exposure to all weathers, including a few degrees
of frost, does the vines no harm, while their
rest is as effectual as it can be. Follow up
pruning as the leaves fall, always bearing in
mind that a long rest after pruning is in favour
of strong, compact bunches. Remove all inert
surface soil quite down to the roots, and replace
it with fresh turf and bones immediately after
the houses are cleansed. If inside borders have

been allowed to get very dry they should l>e well
watered before the top dressing is applied, and
old vines from which heavy crops have been
taken may have a little good rotten manure
added to the compost, but young ones will bo
best without it until the fruit is set and begin¬
ning to swell. The month of November, par¬
ticularly when the weather is mild and damp,
is the worst in the whole year for ripe Grapes in
general, and thin-skinned kindB like the
Hamburgh in particular. Fortunately the
foliage is now ripe, and in many cases cleared
away, and with its removal the worst cause
of damping has disappeared. In very late
houses the main leaves may not be ripe
enough to part from the vines, but where
this is the case a great deal of light
and air may be let in by cutting away all
laterals and shortening the fruit-beariDg shoots
to within two or three joints beyond the bunch.
A little fire heat will be required for keeping
out damp, but great judgment will be needed
in its application, as sudden changes are
injurious to ripe Grapes, either while hanging
on the vines or after they are removed to the
Grape room.

Vegetables.

We are just now lifting Rhubarb and Aspara-
us for forcing. The former forces best when
ept quite dark, but the latter must have air
and light if flavour is wanted. We are pro¬
vided With a capital place in which to force this
delicacy—viz., an old Pine pit just emptied of
Tomatoes. This pit will again be planted with
Tomatoes in January and February ; therefore
Asparagus just fills up the blank. We have
Mint in shallow boxes, Tarragon, Mustard and
Cress, and a host of other little things, includ¬
ing most kinds of spring flowers for forcing,
also in this pit, therefore it is a most useful and
accommodating structure. Outside, now that
the weathet is much better than it has been,
we are manuring, trenching, and digging
every available inch of land, throwing it up
rough. By February it will be like a bed of
ashes, well pulverised and well sweetened—
certainly one of the main things as regards
kitchen garden cropping. Our site for Onions
next season is just cleared, having been cropped
with Snow’s Broccoli, which is now laid in a
spare border. To this ground we give a thorough
manuring, dig it deeply and roughly, and in the
meanwhile we mix up old night soil with ashes
and wait for frost; then we give a good top-
dressing with this mixture, and as we never sow
our Onions before the end of March ample time
is given for all to be mixed and worked
together, a little trouble, I admit, but fine crops
are the result. Cos Lettuce should now be
lifted and protected. Endive we find most
useful, and the same may be said of Chicory,
which we blanch in the Mushroom house, and
I find that a sprinkling of powdered charcoal
among the plants helps to dispel damp.

FRUIT.

Crown or rind grafting.— This mode of
grafting is only adapted for large trees. It is
the simplest and most certain method of graft¬
ing with which I am acquainted. Supposing
we wish to put a new and better head on a
large tree, we cut the branches off within a
short distance of the trunk, make the cut
horizontally, trim its face smooth with a sharp
knife, and put in two or more grafts, according
to the size of the stem. It is a good plan to put
in enough, as if too many grow it is easy to thin
them out. Insert the grafts by making an up¬
ward cut in the bark about 3 inches long and
just through it. The grafts are prepared by
cutting a slice off one side tapering to the
bottom. The outer bark of the other side is
then removed with a light and delicate hand,
leaving the cambium or inner bark to unite
with that of the stock. When the graft is pre¬
pared, an ivory or bone skewer, in shape like
the bottom of the scion, is inserted close to the
wood in the inner ring of bark, and as soon as it is
withdrawn the scion is immediately inserted and
pushed firmly down with its flat side to the stock.
The grafts should be tied in and immediately
well coated with clay, which must be looked to
occasionally, and &1 cracks filled up till the
scions begin to grow, and when growth fairly
sets in the ties will require loosening, and later
in the season they should be removed; but, if

418

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. IS, 1884.

I

soft matting bo used, no injury will arise if
left on till the weather destroys it. As the
young shoots of the grafts make progress, a
small Btake should be placed to each to prevent
wiud blowing them out, which sometimes hap¬
pens, especially in the case of rind grafting.
Most of the success of grafting depends upon doing
it at the right time, and both stock and scion
should be in proper condition for rendering the
operation satisfactory. The scion should bo in
a dormant state, and to this end the young
shoots forming the scions should have been cut
off and laid in moist earth in a cool place several
weeks beforehand. In grafting we commonly
use young wood, but older wood, so long as it
did not exceed the stock in thickness, would do
equally as well. The buds of the stock should be
just bursting into growth when the grafts are
put on, and in the case of old trees a little more
time may be permitted. In planting fruit trees
extensively in any given district, some, no
matter how good their character may be else¬
where, will generally bo found unsuitable
and worthless, but by heading them back
and grafting them, in two years they
will bo converted into valuable trees,
while by digging up and planting new
ones more than double that time would be
consumed before fertile trees could be obtained.
Those, too, who have only a limited number of
trees can if they like have several sorts of
Apples or Pears on one tree. I have in the
case of large trees seen quite a collection of
Pears on one tree. However, this is not so
much to be desired, as if more than one or two
kinds are worked on one tree, unless kinds of
nearly equal vigour are used, the tree will lose
its balance, though this may in some measure
be avoided by working the weakly growers on
the highest branches and the vigorous kinds
nearer the base. Strong shy-bearing sorts may
be rendered more fertile by double grafting.
All grafting tends to weaken the vitality of
plants subjected to it; that indeed is its object;
and in conjunction with a suitable stock in¬
creased fertility is the result. It is owing to
this that double grafting becomes valuable
where early bearing is sought.—E.

Good Nectarines. —We doubt if there be
any variety of the Nectarine that approaches
the Victoria as regards itscropping qualities, or if
it be surpassed for flavour and general excellence ;
but for a vigorous habit and fertility it is
a perfect wonder, and this is not only our own
opinion, but the opinion of everyone that we
are acquainted witn who has grown it. The
Peach and Nectarine have never been cultivated
extensively in this country for the market,
probably because crops are rather uncertain,
whether produced under glass or out-of-doors ;
but we have little doubt that, with Nectarines
like the Victoria, the market gardener might
calculate with certainty on heavy crops ; and
everyone knows that good Peaches and Necta¬
rines fetch very high prices, and fair crops
realise great profits. The Victoria Nectarine
is worth a house or w r all to itself. We planted
a maiden tree eleven years ago, and it has never
missed a crop from the first; and then they are
such crops ! and the fruit is large and fine—
like ordinary sized Peaches, in fact, in the
general run. Our tree has been cropped at
the rate of about one fruit to every C inches of
space every year, and it finishes all splendidly,
and makes a strong growth the while. We
~ould get about Is. a fruit in a provincial town, or
perhaps more, from the fruiterer’s, and anyone
can calculate what that would come to in a 30
feet long house containing some 500 square feet
surface, which is the size of a division
here, one-half of which is filled with the Victoria.
It is doubtful if we have any three or four trees
of other sorts that together equal it for a crop
year after year; and if we had a range of
Peach houses to plant now, we should plant
four of the Victoria to one of any other varieties.
The flavour is first-rate, and the fruit remarkably
juicy and delicious, even when forced early, as
our tree has been all its life—and that, as every
cultivator well knows, does not promote either
health or fruitfulness in a Peach or Nectarine
tree. It is true, as had been stated regarding
it, that the fruit ripens green on the shady
side, and the side next the sun is always dark
red; but if the fruit be laid on a tray in the
Peach house for a cptfple of days orlso after it
is gathered, it will ifcriu^Qi : h> ■j?|>jp , colour ;
ana then not a handsomer Neafcrltre- r can be

placed on the dessert table. It will keep longer,
too, than most Nectarines in the fruit room. It
is worth a house to itself in any garden, and
we propose devoting one to it at the earliest
opportunity. We hardly think it is particular
as regards soil, for we have nowhere heard of it
failing to give satisfaction ; and we have no
hesitation in recommending Peach growers to
plant it exclusively, feeling sure it will give them
every satisfaction. One thing we would advise,
and that is to give the shoots room in training
—4 inches or 5 inches apart at least. When you
come to tie in the shoots this will appear rather
thin ; but this is of no consequence, considering
that one can have as many fruit on a shoot as he
pleases. We noticed five and six fruit on some
of last year’s shoots on our tree this summer,
and all were good fruit. As has been said before,
the tree is a strong grower, and the foliage is
large and needs room in order to secure the
maturation of the wood; and, this effected,
a crop is safe if the trees are ordinarily well
managed otherwise. As regards other sorts, one
of the least common is the Balgowan, which is
an old but excellent sort, and worthy of a place
in any collection. Like the Victoria, it is a very
vigorous grower, and produces very large fruit,
but it is not so prolific. Putting aside some of
the newer kinds, which we cannotsay much about
at present, the next best are Elruge, Violet
Hative, Do wnton, Newington, Pitmaston Orange,
and Hunt’s Tawny. In buying Nectarine or
Peach trees, it may not be unnecessary to say
that those with good clean unions should be
selected, and great care should be taken to see
that they are quite free from gumming, and it
is equally necessary to see that they are true to
name. Mostly all respectable nurserymen are
very particular on this point, and all profess to
bo, but gross mistakes are frequently made.
Of a quantity of trees which we once bought
from a respectable firm, several were wrongly
named ; and the mistake had not been made
through any resemblance of the kinds to each
other, for late varieties were substituted for
early ones, and rice versa.—J. S.

Pruning Vines. —Spur pruning, t.e., leaving
one bud to each spur, although suitable for
some varieties, is by no means suitable for others ;
yet w T e find that as a rule in houses planted
with mixed varieties all are pruned alike, and
with the result that, while Black Hamburghs,
Muscadines, Sweetwaters, andotherfree-fruiting
sorts bear good crops, others are very scantily
furnished with bunches. Now, as vines are
grown simply for the fruit which they produce,
they Bhould be pruned to suit the particular
sorts grown. My own experience is decidedly
in favour of leaving more young wood than is
usually done, the lowest bud, viz., that which
is left in close spur pruning, is a small one
compared with the second and third buds on the
same shoot. I therefore feel sure that if any¬
one will try alternate vines, pruning one on
the closest system, and in the case of the next
allowing two or three buds to remain until they
show bunches, and then selecting the best, they
will get finer J bunches and more regular crops
than by close pruning. The appearance of the
rods when pruned goes for little ; the result in
the shape of a crop is the chief object. Then
there are many sorts that spur pruning does not
suit at all, and amongst these may be mentioned
the Barbarossa. For such kinds the long-rod
system is best, for it is only by having a constant
succession of young canes that good crops can
be secured, and I feel sure that anyone wishing
to get a maximum return from their viues should
every year allow some young canes to replace
exhausted ones.—J. G. G.

A new way of root pruning.—A
large proportion of our Pear trees are growing
on borders, that of necessity, owing to restricted
space, have to be cropped with sundry other
plants. At one time I was disposed to consider
suchastate of things as an unmixed evil,butafter
long experience I have come to the conclusion
that so far from its being a positive disadvantage,
the system has its meritorious features. Our
soil is a light, deep loam, resting on gravel,
and the roots of all fruit trees, if left to them¬
selves, soon disappear, and bore their way into
the depths of the gravel, and when this happens,
the fruiting becomes either all but nil or worthless
through scab and rust. Our remedy used to be
root pruning in the strictest sense of that term ;
now wo have no need to practice such severe

;

measures. The trenchingand feeding needed for
Roses, herbaceous plants, and vegetables doubly
benefit the fruittrees also, first by disturbing the
roots and drawing them up to the surface when
trenching; and secondly, surface rooting is
induced by the manure required for the other
plants, and that the plan answers the always
heavy crops of clean fruit is abundant evidence.

As showing my own faith in this mode of
culture for Apples and Pears, a quantity are
now being planted and the borders filled with
herbaceous perennials, which will be lifted every
alternate year for the purpose of trenching and
manuring the ground.

121 SS.— Black Currant disease.—I refer
to this query, not with the intention of trying
to answer it, but for the purpose of calling
attention to it. The subject was discussed in
Gardening, I think, about two years ago, and,
if my memory serves me right, the only explana¬
tion given which seemed at all a probable one
was that the diseased bushes had received a
check in their growth from some cause or other,
perhaps insufficient manuring, or too much
digging at the roots, or drought. I do not think
it will be generally supposed that any of these
are sufficient to account for the swollen buds
wffiich nover open properly, which ultimately
rot and fall off, and for the fact that the branches
never again return to their normal condition ;
and it is to be hoped that some practical
gardeners who have had experience of the
disease will give us their opinions. Even a
series of facts without explanations might
help us ultimately to suggest some more
likely cause than any that have yet been
given, if the real cause has not been already
discovered. About thirty years ago we got a
lot of bushes from a nursery, ana they were
planted in rows in a square border with a south¬
west exposure. They did well enough for some
years, but at last they fell victims to the disease
one after another. Cutting down to the roots
w-as tried, and even lifting and replanting in
fresh soil; but they were not a bit improved by
either process, and had ultimately to be rooted
out and new ones put in their place. About
twelve years ago I was told that the disease was
confined to plants got from the nurseries, and I
was advised to get bushes from an old stock in
an upland part of the country. I got nine
young bushes from a friend and put them at a
north wall wffiere they have an open yet
clayey soil, and just sufficient moisture to pre¬
vent their suffering from drought in summer or
damp in winter. They grew famously and bore
respectable crops every year; but about six
years ago the bush at the east end of the row
became affected, and has borne nothing but
leaves and abortive buds ever since. The year
after its next neighbour followed suite, and so
on they went each year till five of them have
been rendered useless, and the sixth is slightly
touched. The disease also broke out on the
bush at the west end of the row about three
years ago, but it has not yet extended to the
others. At the east end of the border there is
a large flowering Currant, which would partly
interfere with a bush on the wall, even if
there were no disease, and the bush at the
west end is rendered partly useless by a
double-flowering Hawthorn. The rest of the
border is taken up with Raspberry bushes. I
thought at first that the flowering Currant and
the Hawthorn might have something to do with
the failure of the bushes opposite them, but the
fact that the disease has spread to the open ground
occupied only by the Raspberry bushes shows
that this is not likely to be the case, unless it
be supposed that the spreading fibrqps roots of
the Raspberry bushes themselves have robbed
the black Currants of their due share of nutri¬
ment. I have sometimes thought that an insect
or a fungus might possibly be the original cause
of the mischief, but in the few examinations of
the bud8 which I have made w ith a glass I have
not detected anything of the kind. More than
one large garden in this neighbourhood, and at
least one in the parish from which I got my old
stock, have had to be restocked within the last
few years with plants from the nursery. The
gentleman who advised me to try bushes from
an old stock, repeated the experiment himself
and with the typie.re|if}t.. It is curious that tbe
old stock of bushes from which I got mine are
||s|WI by (the disease. - P. R

■»r teeti

dies - Ei';ht cunccs i.- not
l’t wiiei huv - been grown

Nov. 15, 1884.]

QA&DENING ILL ULTRA TED

449

t

r

t

S

urci^h over a pound each, and to measure over a foot in
circumference. In tho new edition of the French Manual
it is stated that the variety Susquehauah was grown to
weigh *• well over tho pound and to be 12} inches in girth.”
—J. D. E.

12197.—Pear tree scale.— The most effectual way to
deal with Pear tree scale is to scrub it off the wood with a
brush and strong soft soap and water. The trees should be
cleaned while they are dormant in winter.—J. D. E.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

Heavy crop of Jerusalem Artichokes.
—I have dug up a crop of these, and the result
is 240 bushels (a bushel weighing 50 lb.) of fine
tubers from 63 poles, or something like 13 tons
per acre. They are used chiefly for soup,
several bushels per week being required for this
purpose in this institution. The ground from
which this crop was obtained is naturally of the
poorest description, lying low and wet. Some
twenty years ago it was enclosed and drained
(I mention this to show what may be done with
such poor soils under fair cultivation). It is to
be regretted that this root is not more used than
it is, as there is very little difference between
its nutritive properties and those of the Potato;
and, while not more than 8 tons of Potatoes per
acre could be expected from such land (to say
nothing of disease, which would be sure to
make sad havoc in such a low-lying situa¬
tion), 13 tons of Artichokes of fine quality,
without any disease, were obtained. The
cultivation has been of the simplest descrip¬
tion. The ground was trenched about 2 feet
deep for Parsnips in the winter of 1883;
a few fine coal ashes were scattered on the
surface after trenching, and the seed was sown
in the ordinary way in the Bpring ; a good crop
of Parsnips was obtained, and the ground
allowed to lie till the spring. At the end of
March the Artichokes were planted in rows
3 feet apart, 18 inches being left between the
sets. No manure was given, and all the atten¬
tion which they received between planting and
lifting consisted in running the hoe through
them two or three times after they appeared
above the ground. My practice is to change
the ground every year for this crop, as I would
for any other. After cutting off the stems
(previous to lifting the roots), I have them
taken to the Rhubarb quarter and laid in ridges
between the rows to keep the frost out of the
ground in the winter, and to act as a mulch in
the spring and summer. Between these ridges
of Artichoke tops I lay the Asparagus haulm
over the crownaof the Rhubarb, and I find that
bo treated it comes cleaner and earlier than it
otherwise would do, owing to the shelterafforded;
while, too, rows not so treated suffer from dry
weather, those mulched go on flourishing, and
the stalks keep crisp and tender.—R. L.,
Brook wood.

Early Paragon Pea.— The end of this
month is a good time to sow Peas. I have had
a dry warm border deeply dug and well
manured ready to be sown with Paragon, one of
the finest of all early Peas, and ready for
gathering at the same time as William I. It is
excellent in flavour, fills its pods well, and is a
heavy cropper. It, moreover, continues a long
time in a bearing state, and possesses a very
hardy constitution. It is a blue wrinkled
Marrow, grows from 3 feet to 4 feet in height;
the pods are large size and each contains from
ten to fourteen large Peas. This Pea should
not be sown, but planted thinly in drills.—R. N.

Hints to amateurs.— The weather at the
present time, being so really fine, all amateurs
should take advantage of it. The general work
just now is to get the spring Cabbages and
Lettuces planted, if not already done. The
small plot of Tripoli Onions should be carefully
weeded, and afterwards hoed, to keep the
surface of the laud open, which will add much
to the crop. If VValoheren or Veitch’s Giant
Broccoli are coming in too fast they may be
lifted and stored in a cool shed, where they will
keep good for a long time. Celery : Tie up and
finish earthing. Nothing is so bad for this
valuable crop os to allow the frost or snow to
break down the foliage. The weather getting
into the hearts the decay at once commences,
and ruination of the crop follows. Beet,
Turnips, and Carrots should be all taken up and
stored, the same as Potatoes,-taking care to keep
a few out f l»t present use. jParsnipa Bh polfcft

in the soil until they begirt* #t&rt ui ch4^p?hig.

Every inch of land should be well manured, and
here let me say, if farmyard manure is short,
“ Beeson’s artificial ” I find to be a good sub¬
stitute ; digging the land deeply, and laying it
up roughly, gives Jack Frost an opportunity of
giving it a good shaking, which sweetens it and
duly prepares it for cropping. In the matter of
Potatoes, which is an important one to amateurs,
I would say all early Ashtops and also Myatt’s
should now be stacked on their ends in shallow-
boxes so that the shoots will be strong and
green, and not white and puny. Belay plant¬
ing until the first week in April, and have all
lifted by the 1st of August. You then miss tho
disease which our old friend is troubled with.
By following these simple rules, which are
practical ones, lifting Potatoes becomes, as of
yore, a pastime and a pleasure.— Kitchener.

Early Asparagus.— Our first forced As¬
paragus was cut on November 1, and, much
as this delicious vegetable is valued during the
spring months, it is doubly so now. When
the roots are placed widely apart and thoroughly
matured they force as readily now as during
any of the spring months, and the produce is
equally strong and plentiful, while the flavour
gives the utmost satisfaction. A bottom heat
of 75 degs. and a top heat of 65 degs. or there¬
abouts are necessary for its production, and we
like to have it near the glass in order that it
may have the full benefit of light and air.
Our favourite forcing place i9 a Cucumber pit
heated with a flue. In lifting, the fleshy roots
are kept as entire as possible, and when finished
off for forcing they are merely covered with
soil. Strong liquid manure water is given each
time water is required, and this has a good
effect, especially when they show signs of
flagging. As to tho forced roots being of use
for open-air culture, as some affirm they are,
I must say that we have never found them to
be so good as seedlings, which are easily
raised annually to succeed those taken up for
forcing.

INDOOR PLANTS.

ORNAMENTAL-LEAVED BEGONIAS.

W hen the first fine-leaved Begonias made their ap¬
pearance they were much prized. Many of the
noble variegated plants since introduced were
then unknown, and therefore these Begonias
for a time engaged everybody’s attention.
Several of the most effective kinds are hybrids.
The different species cross freely, and seed¬
lings are easily raised. The species and
varieties that come under the head of the fine¬
leaved section are mostly from warm latitudes,
and consequently require artificial heat in which
to grow them well; yet several will succeed in
a lower temperature than that in which they
are often tried ; B. Rex, for instance, in itself
a handsome plant, has been the progenitor of
several others both fine and distinct. It comes
from Assam, and will do well with less heat than
it is frequently supposed to require ; this and
several others of similar character will succeed
in an intermediate fernery, where their brood
distinct silvery-looking leaves contrast effec¬
tively with those of the more elegant growing
Ferns.

The propagation of most of the kinds is as
easy as their after management; they strike
freely from cuttings made of the shoots, or from
portions of the leaves—the latter the more
usual way of treating them, as likewise the
means by which much the greatest number can
be raised from a single plant, ns every bit of
leaf an inch or so square that contains a portion
of the ribs or nerves will strike root and form
a plant. The leaves for this purpose should
be taken off about May or June, when such as
have been formed early in the spring will have
been sufficiently solidified to prevent damping
off. Take 5-inch or 6-inch pots drained and
partially filled with a mixture of sand and fine
peat, the surface made up with sand, in these
insert the portions of leaf so that they are one-
third below the surface ; give as much water as
will just keep the sand damp, but not too wet, or
they will be liable to rot; keep them in an
ordinary stove temperature, but not covered
with a bell-glass, or closely confined in a pro¬
pagating frame, neither must they be too much
shaded or they will decay. In a few weeks
they will make roots, and begin to form a shoot
each that will push up and throw out leaves

like an ordinary shoot-cutting. When fairly
established, move them singly into small pots
in sandy soil—either peat or loam ; they usually
grow the freest in the former. Although, as I
have already said, these Begonias are amongst
the easiest of plants to grow, still there is a
great difference in the appearance of such as
are treated in a way that enables them to ex¬
hibit their best form and others that are
managed the reverse. The weak-stemmed,
flabby-leaved examples often met with are tho
result of growing them too crowded, with
too much shade, and keeping them too far from
the glass with insufficient air and overmuch
heat, all of which must be avoided if the plants
are expected to fairly represent what can be
done with them.

Shading and stringing. —A little shade
they must have when the sun is powerful.
During the growing season syringe them over¬
head once a day (about the time the air is shut
off in the afternoon is the best), and the water
should be got so far as possible to the under¬
sides of the leaves, as they are liable to the
attacks of tlirips. Give water, so as not to let
them flag, or it will have the effect of dimming
the beautiful glossy texture of their leaves,
which is the principal thing that makes them
effective. All they need in other respects is
to increase the root room as required. Large
specimens will want pots 11 inches or 12 inches
in diameter, but it is not well to give too large
a shift at once ; rather increase the space as it is
needed. They are quick growers, and it is not
advisable to keep them until they get very old,
as young ones soon attain a size such as to make
them large enough for ordinary purposes. The
larger silvery-leaved kinds are most suitable for
growing in ferneries, and will do well planted
out in positions that admit of their getting the
most light without being too damp.

SrECiES AND varieties.— The undermen¬
tioned kinds represent the different forms and
colours of leaf that are most distinct and desir¬
able. B. Otto Forster is a bronzy green
ground coloured kind marked and streaked with
white; B. Rex has a bright green ground banded
with white ; B. argentea hirsuta has handsome
silvery foliage of medium size ; B. Pearl is a
prettily marked kind, compact in habit; B.
Edouard Andr6 has bold distinct foliage clearly
marked ; and B. Duchess lias pale green leaves
bauded with dark green.

Insects. —These Begonias are little subject to
insects. Thrips sometimes establish themselves
underneath the leaves, and I have seen red
spider attack them, but they can be easily kept
down by syringing as already advised.

Rivinas in fruit. —By a little judicious
treatment these can be had in fruit at almost
any time of the year, but it is during the dull
months of autumn and winter that they are
most appreciated, and that season is also their
general time of fruiting, provided they are left
to themselves. Rivinas are quick-growing
subjects, but form, nevertheless, neat, bushy
plants, that are most effective when in 6-inch
pots, studded with small red or yellow berries.
They are readily increased by means of cuttings
or seeds, both of which grow without difficulty,
and both appear to be equally floriferous.
Moderately good soil of any kind suits them,
and they thrive well in a warm greenhouse;
indeed, during summer they do well in an
ordinary greenhouse. Plants well grown and
fruited are useful for table decoration. The
sorts in cultivation are R. Levis, in which the
berries are bright crimson ; R. fluva, a vellow-
fruited kind ; and R. humilis, a red-berried
species, in which tho foliage is more hairy than
in the two preceding. Cuttings struck in the
spring and grown on during summer make
handsome plants in tho autumn.—P.

Useful Chrysanthemums for out
flowers. —As we use a large quantity of cut
flowers, and are obliged to take care to grow
principally those varieties of Chrysanthemums
that are most useful and profitable for this pur-

K se, perhaps a few notes on the subject might
acceptable to the readers of Gardening.
For pure white blooms of fine form, suitable for
wreath and bouquet making, the Japanese
variety, Elaine, is probably the best. The im¬
mense bloom seen at shows we do not at all de¬
sire or try to produce, but grow a number of

450

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 15, 1884.

plants as large and bushy as possible, and leave I fortunately fall rather readily, to prevent' stopped onoe or twice in spring to induce a
from three to six bads to each shoot. Thus : which the plants should be withdrawn from bushy formation, and they should never be

mirably in any kind of really good decoration,
A kind that comes in very well before Elaine is
open is Madame Deagrange, a hybrid Japanese
somewhat similar, but not so completely formed
in the blooms, which have, however, a more or
less yellow centre. Grown out-of-doors this is
very conspicuous, and prevents the blooms
being classed as “white” at all; but under
glass, and especially in a gentle warmth, the
colour comes very pure. Bunches of this variety
spld very well this autumn. Another very
useful early flower is Mrs. Cullingford, and a
third is La Vierge ; both very pure, medium¬
sized flowers, very freely produced. For small
blooms for filling in among larger flowers we
use a Pompone called Argentine, which produces
myriads of small, compact, Daisy-like blooms,
with straight, stiff stems ; these are nearly pure
white when grown out-of-doors, but inside they
are a beautiful colour. This is, altogether,
about the most useful kind we have ever tried.
Illustration is very good, but seldom really
white. Nanum is much grown by some, but is
generally more or less pink in hue. Among the
yellow varieties Aigle d’Or is undoubtedly the
freest and best of all Pompones ; the colour is
very rich, and the growth and habit all that
could be desired. A larger kind, very similar
in colour, though rather deeper, is St. Michael,
which produces splendid heads of a rich gold
colour ; this is a great favourite. For a great
yellow flower Mrs. Dixon is about the best, and
always looks well. Anastasia is a lovely
carmine-pink, and very dwarf and free. About
the most useful crimson is Brilliant, or King of
Crimsons or Julia Lagravere for larger blooms.
The white and golden forms o,f M>ime. Marthe
are both excellent. With a good stock of the
above varieties no one need ever be at a loss for
nice cut flowers.—B. C. R. 0

- - D * - , 12161.—Plants for Australia.—Having

back, after which, if syringed and watered, I re8 i<j e( i i n Australia for some years I may be
they soon break again, and, if repotted, become able help *«q p q »» a little, though it is
more full of berry than they had been before, i now 8ome t i me ago, before English plants were
If Rivinas are propagated from cuttings, it will ^ fa the colony. However, as far as

be found that the young half-ripe shoots strike j m y recollection serves me, I shall be happy to
best, and all that is necessary with these is to a y XB i G f wba t succeeded beat with us. My
insert them in sandy soil and keep them close eX pe r ience was chiefly gained about 200 miles
in heat fora fortnight or so, by which time they U p the gantry from Melbourne. In the first

root, and are then ready for potting. A com¬
post of fibry loam and a little leaf-mould suits
them well, and the firmer they are potted in
this the better they fruit.—D.

12180.— Achimenes not flowering.—
These are easily grown, and, under suitable
conditions, never fail to flower well. They
require a warm temperature and to be placed

place Roses did wonderfully well. We had not
very many, and they had very little attention,
but I do not think I ever remember such fine
flowers of General Jacqueminot as one bush
produced by hundreds, and many other varieties
flourished luxuriantly planted anywhere and
anyhow. Gladioli did finely, left undisturbed
for years ; Dahlias we never had, but I should

near the glass. A low pit, where the plants say they would do well if kept watered in the
can have the advantage of being plunged in a dry season. Iris and Anemones flourished as I
gentle bottom heat, is the best place for them, j have never seen them in England, the latter

Luculia gratissima In pots.— M*ny
are under the impression that this beautiful
and sweet-scented greenhouse shrub is difficult
to flower until it reaches a large size, but such
is really not the case, as plants of it may be
had in bloom when only about a foot in height.
We have seen plants of it in the London nurseries,
none of which exceeded a yard in height, and
the majority only about half that height. Each
plant carries one or more large clusters of its
fragrant and delicate pink blossoms, which,
accompanied by the broad and healthy green
foliage, produce a grand effect. This Luculia is
a phmt'that should be grown in every green¬
house, either in pots in a small state or planted
out as standard? qr bushes.

Rivina humilis as a standard —This is
one Of'the most Useful of all the berried plants ;
its long racemes of brightly coloured fruit are
not only exceedingly showy, but can be had in
full beauty at almost any time of the year. It
may also easily be grown in the standard form ;
all that is necessary is to run the plants up with
clean stems to the height required. If bushes
are wanted it is only needful to stop the leader
by nipping out the point, when it will soon break
and become furnished with young shoots down to
the base. If standards are desired, the best
way to obtain them is to sow seed, as
seedlings grow strofigly and make straight
and clean stems, which, if the plants are
wanted for table decoration—a purpose for
which they are specially adapted—look best
about 15 inches high, as then their long
bunches of glossy berries hang clear, and are
shown off to the greatest advantage. The seed
germinates so freely, and the plants are so
robust when they come up, ana give so little
trouble, that it may be sown at any time. As
soon as the seedlings are up and large enough to
handle they should be potted singly in small
pots, and after being watered set on a shelf
where they can have a genial moist heat. In
this they will soon start and begin to grow
rapidly, when all side shoots should be Kept
rubbed out till the required height is reached,
and if then stopped the plants will quickly form
nice compact heads and begin to flower. It will
then be necessary to have them elevated so as to

The potting soil should be moderately rich, and
composed of loam with a portion of peat and a
fourth pgrt of decayed stable manure.—J. D. E.

12189.— Azaleas not blooming.— The
plants have evidently been placed out in the
open air too soon. The best treatment for
Azaleas is to place them in a warm house as soon
as flowering time is over. The plants like a
warm, moist atmosphere during the summer
months. They form their flower buds in this
temperature, and after being inured gradually
to more air they may be placed out-of-doors in
the autumn for a little while—say six or eight
weeks. They will set their flower buds in a
greenhouse without the aid of heat, but it is best
not to place them out-of-doors until the buds are
formed.—J. D. E.

12184. ^-Geraniums In winter.— It is
getting too late to cut these down now—that
should have been done more than six weeks ago—
and they would require repotting as sOon as they
started into growth. If it is really necessary
to cut them down so late as this they should be
kept dry at the roots until the wounds are
healed. They will then start to grow, and may
be repotted if they can be placed in a house
where the temperature is rather dry, and warmer
than that of an ordinary greenhouse.—J. D. E.

12181.— Hoya carnosa.— This requires a house to be
of the same temperature as that in which the Achimenes
are grown. It does not object to a high temperature but
will flower well there, at the same time a coil stone or
what is termed an intermediate house w ill suit it. It does
well on the back wall of a vinery, flowering with the greatest
profusion and covering an Immense space.—J. D. E.

12186.— Deutzia gracilis.—Very seldom does any¬
one complain of this plant not flowering, if it makes any
young wood at all it will produce flowers freely. The plant
may be left out in the garden ,unfil the frost sets in or it
may be taken into the house at once. Anywhere under
glass in a cool house will suit ft until it starts to grow,
when it ought to be placed near the light.—J. D. E.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

stand up near theygUsa to assist 1
setting. Thistheyu
the berries are not }

he glass to assist the fl<

flowers in
freely, and
they an-

(miscellaneous.)

12163 .—New Zealand planta from seed.
—The seed should be sown the beginning of
April in' a cold frame, or in a cool house: The
pans or pots must be well drained, putting some
fibrous material on the cracks and filling to
within half an inch of the rim with fine peat, to
which has been added quite ode-fourth of its
bulk of white-sand. Make the surface firm and
perfectly level, < and water sufficiently before
sowing to thoroughly moisten the soil through.
Cover the seeds with about their own thickness
of very fine mould, and stand the pots where
they can be kept quite clean and dark until
germination takes place. If the young plants
come up rather thickly they should, when large
enough to handle, be pricked out 2 inches apart
in 6-inch pots ; but if they are an inch or so
apart when they come up they may remain thus
until the following year. These New Zealand
plants all demand ordinary greenhouse tempera¬
ture in winter with plenty of air in spring and
early summer, and free exposure to the open air
and sun in late Bummer and autumn. They
require strict attention in the matter of water
ing, never allowing them to become dust dry,
but taking care that they are not so heavily
watered as to render the soil sour and close.
Those that grow freely when young should be

particularly. We had great patches of these,
never disturbing them, except to divide them
sometimes, and I remember these as perfect
masses of immense blooms. Auriculas, Crocuses,
and Soillaa would probably find their quarters too
warm for them, but all the others mentioned
would do well, especially the Lilies and Ranun¬
culi# which were simply superb, and no trouble. I
am referring chiefly to L. candidum, but almost
all the others would be sure to do more or less
well. But one of the finest plants in the garden
was the Arum or Calla Lily. A small plant of this
put out became invariably, in two or three years’
time, 3 feet or 4 feet through, upon which twenty
or thirty fine blooms might be counted at one
time in perfection. Verbenas grew like weeds,
never requiring any attention beyond weeding,
and produced sheets of colournotsoon forgotten.
Fuchsias did well. Geraniums I cannot call to
mind, but should consider them suitable; but
the whole tribo of what are called “ hard-
wooded greenhouse plants ” here, including
Ericas, Eriostemons, Aphelexis, Chorozeraas,
&o., flourished as one might naturally expect in
their native climate ; while of Cytiausracemosus,
we had hedges 8 feet or 9 feet high, which be¬
came one sheet of fragrant blossom each spring,
Regarding transit, there would be no difficulty
with such things as Dahlias and Anemones when
at rest. Roses are easily packed, but anything
like tender greenhouse plants should be packed
in air-tight boxes with glass lids. There are
now, however, several extensive nurseries near
the large towns in Australia, where almost any¬
thing can be purchased.—B. C. R.

12175.— Arundo oofcsplcua and Hoi- T
lies. —The best time to move the Aiundo is"
about thcr beginning, of\AprH, just.‘is 'growth
commences,' as then the roots quickly lay hold t
of the new soil, and the safety of »the plant is -
assured. If transplanted at any other time of
year, unless in September, it is apt to die away
owing to the roots rotting. The only thing that
can be done to make Hollies grow freely is to
mnlch them well every winter with rotten dung
and give them an occasional soaking of water in
hot, dry weather.' In planting Hollies the soil
should always be trenched 2 feet deep, adding
plenty of dung, then when in the course of two
years they become well established.they make
vary, rapid progress.— J. C. B. > , r

12203.—Heating small greenhouse.—
Oil stoves are of use,' inasttluch as they are very
portable and handy, and comparatively inexpen¬
sive in first cost; also the heat given off is regular
and certain, bo far as itgotes." On these grounds
they are pferhaps the best for very small green¬
houses. On the otflei* hand they have the dis¬
advantage of vitiating the atmosphere with fumes
more or less hurtful, also of failing to give
sufficient heat in very sharp weather, when extra
lamps have to be called into requisition, as I
know to my dost. Oneof the small slow combus¬
tion stoves, without hot-water piping, mightsuit
the case. These are convenient, and the heat
may be increased or lessened at will by regu¬
lating the draught, although here the disad¬
vantage is the danger of overheating, and so
unduly drying the air. It is to be regretted that
no arrangement oan be made for heating by hot
wutar, ae by no other system do we get the pure
mild heat so beneficial to plant life, and I do

Nov. 15, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

45 L

not think that anyone who has once experienced
this would care to go back to any other heating
medium.—K., Southend.

- In reply to “ Ferndale’s ” query I would

certainly say do not try the “TerraCotta” stove.

1 bought one last autumn, and have just given
it up, my reasons for discarding it being that it
smoked continually, it was most difficult to
light, and it took such a long time to break the
coal and coke to the required size for use. 1 have
now in use a Fletcher’s Patent Gas Stove, which
I think is likely to be a success.—C. L: B.

- In answer to 44 Fefndale's ” question as

to the best and least expensive way of heating
a small greenhouse, I will give him my ex¬
periences. I have a greenhouse facing south
7 feet by 5 feet. Last winter I used a common
duplex lamp, lighting it about six in the even¬
ing, and generally found it burning by eight in
the morning. The thermometer never went
below 40 degs., and I lost none of my plants
throughout the winter, though, of course, last
winter was an exceptionally mild one. This
year I am trying “ IUppingille’s Patent Stove.”
I burn crystal oil in it, and always clean and trim
it myself, and think it a great deal safer than a
lamp. It burns for about fourteen hours. Care
must be taken to cut off all the black wick every
day, and every part of the stove must be kept
very clean to prevent it smoking and smelling.

I have over 150 Geranium cuttings and about
60 various plants in this little greenhouse, and
hope to keep them free from frost by means of
this stove. II “Ferndale” wishes to try one,
I believe he could get it at any good iron¬
monger’s. —Seng A, West Kensington. ' ,

12159.— Manure for herbaoeous bor¬
ders. — If you had some thoroughly rotten
manure reduced by constant exposure to the
elements to the consistency of mould you could
get nothing better, and there is nothing offen¬
sive in its appearance. There are, however,
plenty of concentrated manures which suffice to
maintain hardy flowers in health and vigour
without the use of dung. Clay’s Fertiliser is
one of the best of them, and if you give your
border a good sprinkling of it early in March
you will not have to complain of want of vigobr
in its occupants. Do not dig your border, as is
often done, but just point it over with a fork.—
J. C.. Byfieet.

12204. — Large Orange trees.— In Gar
denino a correspondent inquires where he may
procure a good-sized Orange tree. I have two
w hich I am anxious to dispose of. They are
both good, healthy trees, standards, over 5 feet
high from the top of the pots, good heads.
They are both in good bearing condition.
Last spring they had about twenty little
Oranges (Tangerina) on each, but from being
neglected they did not come to perfection.—
Mrs. May, Ridge Hill , near Macclesfield.

12179 — Dividing Fern roots.—If yours is a hardy
fem and in the open ground it may he divided now,
although the best time is the end of March ; but if in a pot
do not part it until the young growths are beginning to push
up in spring, then it will quickly heal and form fresh roots.
—J. C. B.

12193. — Liming 1 land- —The lime should be slaked by-
pouring water on it; and it ou&ht to be put on the ground
not. Dry it into the soil at once, or if it is not possible to
dry, the ground may be hoed deeply.—J. D. E.

C. If. Stnryton .—Chrysanthemum flowers, especially

white ones, frequently " sport" into different colours.-

M. B.—Fs.’V the seeds mentioned apply to Mr. Thompson,

Seedsman. Tavern Street, I|*swich.- L. Af. L .—Not very

uncommon, but good for the sort.- Constant Reader.—

The Myrtle is infested with scale. Remove it with a
pointed piece of wood, then well wash with water and soft
soap or Gishuret Compound. Repeat the operation once a
week till the plant is clean.

Names Ot plants.— J. Illustrated .—Probably Cotonc-

aater buxifolia.- F. W. II .—Ajuga roptans ; Platvloma

rotundifolium (Fern).- T. L.— .E-ichynanthus grandi-

florus.- If. Mui~])hy .—Hypericum glandulosum.- Mrs.

P. Butler .—Gilia tenuifolia. We do not know what

Ag&tha Roses are.- R.'B.— 1, Chrysanthemum Burridge-

anum ; 2, Caliiopsis Drummondi; 8. Specimen insufficient
to identify ; 4 Species of Hieracium ; 5. Chrysanthemum
Leticanthemum. Your packet was insufficiently stamped.

-T. C.— 1, Pteris argyroa; 2, Ncphrodium' molle ; 3,

Aspidium aculeatum.

Names Of fruit.— I. J. R.— Muscat of Alexandria

- D. Waller. —2, Minehal Crab ; 3, Beauty of Kent; l and

4 not recognised.- J. K.—l, Probably Beauty of Kent;

2, Oslin ;3, Queen Caroline ;4. Not known.- H. M. G> ove.

—1, Not known; 2, Blentwim Orange ; 3, Bedfordshire

Foundling ; 4. Too much decayed.- E. B. IF.—2, Fearn’s

Pippin ; 3, Bess Pool; 4, Flower of Kent.- A. Bone.—

\merican Mother.- Major-General Moody— 1, Bur-

(.hardt’s Rpinette ; 2, New Hawthornden ; 3, Not known.

-L. A rd+n .—Probably Crimson Caraway Russet—

R. B .—Apparently King of the Pippins.- M. B. F.—l,

Kinjc of the Pippins ; 2, Wellington or Dumclow’s 8cedliDg.
- Others next week.

Digitized by

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.— A11 communications
for insertion should he c'early and concisely written on one
side of the pajwr only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the seiuler is required, in addition to any nom
dc plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper owing to the necessity nj
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not passible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not answered
should be sent tv us again.

Naming plants or fruit.— Four plants, fruits , or
flowers only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens are sent. We do nht undertake to
name mrieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums. Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comjtaruon at hand.
Any communication resjwcting plants or fruit sent to
name should always aecomjwny the parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
specimens q f each , showing the fruit in various stages.

12i53.-Funkla grand lflora.— This grows well in my
garden but never flowers. What ti eatment should it have!

Birkenhead.

12239.— Worms In vegetable crops.-I should
be thankful if any of your readers would advise me as to
a remedy for worms t hat attack Cabbages, Brocooli, Beet,
and Spinach, just at the surface. My garden is an old
one, and tho soil is very ligbtfand near the shore. With
liberal manurings we grow- good vegetables. What can
I dress it with now, whilst comparatively clean ? What
will rid me of those pests, and at tho same time, if
possible, do good in other ways?—J. B.

11260.—Begonia fuchsloldes.— Can anyone tell me
how to treat Begonia fuchsioides ? I have no greenhouse,
but a nice sunny window in a sitting-room I had a
cutting which grew too luxuriantly tho first year. It was
very tall and straggling, and in the autumn I cut it down
to about half the height. It seemed to resent this treat¬
ment, and has been unhealthy ever since, scarcely growing
at all this last summer. What ought I to do with it?
—E. Moles worth.

12281.— Wlreworm in vine border.— Wo have had
a new vine border made the turf of which is full of wire-
worm. Can anyone tell me ho v to get rid of them ?—H.
Georoe.

12282.—Single Dahlias.—I have some single Dahlia
seeds. I intend to sow them in Inxes in light mould about
the end of March, when about an inch high. I shall pot
them off singly till it is warm enough to plant them in the
open. Is this the best way to make them como to perfec¬
tion ?-E. C. M.

12263.— Christmas Roses.— Lost year my Christmas
Roses were a failure through being eaten away by insects.
My gardener tells me that he his a’ways been accustomed,
when the buds are just showing, to cover them over with
half a foot of light mould and let the buds work through.
Will sune reader givo me some information about it? —
E. C. M.

12264. — Propagating Ampelopsis Veitchtl.—
Will someone kindly say how and when Ampelopsis Veitchii
may be propagated?—O bin.

12165.—Roses in pots.— Kindly say should the
Martchal NM Ro«e be grown in a greenhouse in pots, also
Isabella Sprent, Niphctos, and Red Gloirc do Dijon, and if
they are climbers!— An Amateur.

12263.—Tea leaves for plants.— Could any reader
of Garorni.no say if Tea leaves mixed in a heap of refuse
garden stuff (dried leaves, old pottery, mould, withered
flowers, decayed Apples, &c.,) would inorevse its nutritive
qualities, or w-ould it be useless to mix them w-ith mould
which will not be decayed enough to use for some months ?
Tea leaves were recohimendod as surf ice dressing in some
instances in a late number of Gardening.— A. II. Farran.

122 *7.—Evergreen shrubs in exposed position.
—Can any cf your readers oblige me with the names of a
few evergreen shrubs which will thrive in a position shaded
from the sun by trees, and much exposed to north-west
winds ?-W.

12263.- Arrangement of flower bed. -I have a
round centre >xxi. measuring 85 feet, surrounded in spring
with other beds of Hyacinths and Tulips. Will someone
give me an arrangement for this centre bed ? I luvo red
and white Daisies, various Anemones, and Ara'»is alba.—
P. H.

12269. — Keeping Grapes. — I should be much
obliged as to the nest and c vdest method of keeping Grapes
when cut from the vines. — P. O. S.

12270.-Moving large Yew tree.— What is the best
time to transplant a large Yew-tree which is required to bo
removed a few feet to enlarge a tennis ground ? Plense
give detailed directions for df jing it, so as to ensure the
safety of the trto.—A. D. K.

12271.— Stands for Chrysanthemums. — Will
some correspondent say how stands should be made for
exhibiting Chrysanthemums, and how the blooms should
be arranged? A few- hints will oblige novice exhibitors.—
Cuorlrv.

12272 —Crocuses and mice.— I low- can Crocus bulbs
be preserved from mice ?—J. C. A.

12273.—Roses for greenhouse wall.— Would some
roader kindly recommend three or four good Roses suitable
for training against a greonhouse wall, also what time I
should plant them ?— J. Dugan.

12274.— Lime for Thorn hedges. -1 am about to
plant a mile long of Thorn hedge after the ground has been
wrll trenched I should be glad to know if the application
of old slaked lime to the soil would be beneficial or injuri¬
ous to the young Thorn plants.—Z.

12276.— Water mter.—Can anyone inform mo the
best means of ailing a stoln to act as a water filter ? I had
one in use a number of years, but the contents have lweu
disturbed and I have lost the recipe by which it was filled.
—A Subscriber,

12278 —Pot Roses.— I have potted some H.P. Roses in
9-iuch pole. Will the pots Break if plunged in ground
during the winter and covered with bracken, or what other
means could I use to protect roots and pots from frost?—
Warrington.

12*277.— Weeds on lawns.— Can any reader inform
me how to eradicate weeds (such as Dandelion, Daisies,
Plantain, &c.,) from lawns without the trouble of hand-
weeding. As I have been told of a mixture having been
used for that purpose by a friend who cannot remember the
name or composition of it, I appeal ti tho aid of readers of
Gardening —Amateur. / . , .

i2278.-Clerodendron not flowering.— l have a
Clerodcndron that did not flower this year and is now
making fresh growth in a greenhouse, where I moved it
from ihe stove ; it was rested last winter, repotted, an i put
into heat in February, looked perfectly healthy And vet
showed no sign of bloom. Ought it to be cut back now ?—
Inquirer

12279.— Brugmanslas in winter.— What ought to
be done with Brugmansias in winter?— Ivy.

12260 — Gardenia buds falling off. — Will some
correspondent kindly tell me why my Gardenia buds fall
off when they are large? The plant is healthy and clean,
in a damp stove house, well watered and manured, as I know
it is pot bound ; the roots are showing a little at top. Would
it do to shift it into a larger pot without disturbing th s soil
or roots ?— Anxious.

12281.—Fruit of Passion flower.—I shall be gUd of
some information about the fruit of the Passion flower,
which, I am told, is eatable. I have some fruit about the
size of a yellow Plum and of a rich golden colour. Is this
lipe or ought it to be a dark plum colour, and should it be
preserved or how eaten, i.e., if it is fit to eat at all ?—M. G.
TlITINQE.

12282.— Lillumlongiflorum.— I shall be glad to know
the best winter treatment for these, as I find they do not
die down like other Lilies but keep green all the winter.—
Barnes

12283 — Lilium Harrisi — What is the best mode of
culture and winter treatment of these? My bulbs did not
bloom and have now developed a number of bulbletsat the
base of stem.— Barnes.

12284.— Soil for Cauliflowers.— What is the host
way to prepare a piece of sandy soil for growing Cauli*
flowers ? I had a piece dressed with stable manure, but the
crops failed.—S outhport.

12285 —Potting Roses.—I have some R-wcs which
have been planted twelve months in open ground, and I
have now potted them in 10-inch pits. Is there any risk
of their dying through being transplanted ? -Quaker.

12286— Plan ting Roses.— I had some Rose trees sent
me on October 30th, I did not plant till November 4th. Is
it likely I have damaged the growth of the trees by my
neglect ?— Hatton.

Vegetarianism.— Id your issue of tho 1st
of November “ J. D. ” attempts to give “ some
reasons for not being a vegetarian,” and his
attempt appears to fail. lie begins by as¬
suming that man is a carnivorous animal—at
least to a great extent so. This is the point
whore we part company. What flesh eating
animal does man resemble ? He does not “lap”
like the lion, tiger, wolf, dog, cat, he. ; the
teeth to which “ J. D. ” refers are not like the
fangs of those animals which seize and kill other
animals. Man’s teeth are in good form for
cracking nuts and biting thread, but nothing
more. The animals named above do not sweat,
but gramoivorous Animals do ; they also drink,
and do not “lap.” Our critic goes on to say
that the internal economy of the human being
is not compatible with a farinaceous diet, And,
farther, that there is great difference between
one subject and another in this respect. The
latter of these assertions is quite true if applied
to a full-sized and full-grown man on the one
hand and an infant on the other hand ; but if
there be a difference between the digestive
organs of two subjects of equal size and age
may it not be the result of disease ? A very
common error made by the worshippers of the
flesh-pots of Egypt and other countries is in
thinking we live on Cabbage and white bread.
The fact is, we ransack every corner of the
earth for what is beautiful and wholesome, and
we live on the greatest possible variety of
fruits, plants, and seeds, and that we have
intellectual aud scientific ways of cookiug
our food to make it attractive aud digestible.
These are some of our theories ; the col¬
lective practice of the human race bears
them out in the fact that three-fourths
of the population of this globe work and live
without flesh diet. Nor could it lie otherwise.
Suppose the ‘200,000,000 of Hindoos should
become converted (or perverted) to the opinion
of “J. ]).,” and abandon the fruit of their
B man* trees, &c., to seok beef, mutton, pork,
he., how could enough animals subsist on the
Grass, herbs, and roots of that tropical region
in which there are regular periods of heat with¬
out rain extending over four months ? The
East Indian tribes include the Sikh, than which
no finer physical type of humanity exists. The
vegetarian part of mankind also includes the

URBANA-CHAMPA1GN

452

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 15, 1884.

defends Plevna on a diet of Dates and similar
foods. But nearer home the Highlander makes
a very respectable appearance on food that costs
perhaps less than 4d. a-day ; a regiment of
Scotchmen led the assault which relieved the
besieged garrison at Luckoow, and an Irish
regiment distinguished itself at Tel-el-Kebir;
these men grew up, for the most part, on
Potatoes and milk and a little meal. If this
range of climate and variety of circumstance
need addition, there is the Canadian wood¬
cutter, whose favourite dish is Haricot Beans
stewed in a pan in the ashes of his wood fire,
or the settler in Texas with his dinner of
Indian corn, bread and honey, or the legions
of Cicsar conquering the then known world
whilo they ate brown bread and drank sour
wine. But we English vegetarians are such for
selfish reasons, not for sentimental or heroic
reasons—we escape bodily pain and doctor’s
bills, fatigue, and many petty worries and ap¬
prehensions. Many of us were flesh eaters till
we found that the carcases of animals supplied
an imperfect food, starch and other necessaries
being absent from it and being procurable with
difficulty in the usual routine of the kitchen,
appearing, in fact, in only two forms—
viz., bread and Potatoes ; a poor assortment,
surely ! Consequently we make a new de¬
parture, and believe that if our principles
should transform the country into a vast fruit
and vegetable garden, interspersed with dairies,
the health, wealth, and happiness of all men
will be promoted. Agricultural depression is
the topic in every circle just now. Why need
this industry be depressed ? It is so because
the inhabitants of cities, towns, and manufac¬
turing villages do not eat the food which the
inscrutable Yaw of Nature has written in unmis¬
takable characters in their physical constitution.
To grow, gather, pack, and despatch to the
manufacturing populations all the varieties of
fruits, vegetables, herbs, and meals would
not only employ all our agricultural population,
but the elevated character of the work would
change them from the dull dependents they
now are into the finest condition possible.
Intoxication would decrease, because, with a
natural diet, man would not have unnatural
thirst and craving for stimulants.— C. Walkijen,
Ashiccll.

- Most readers must have been much in¬
terested in “ J. D. *8 ” article on this subject at
page 420. His reasons for not becoming a vege¬
tarian are indeed cogent if, as he says, the
quality of most of our cereal food supply is so
indUTerent; and from this cause may perhaps
be traced the failures which so many of
us have to acknowledge in our trials of vege¬
tarianism. His information as to the Rice
grown, or rather starved into whiteness for the
English market, is certainly surprising ; and if
the globular kind he mentions could be pro¬
cured it ought to cause a revolution in Rice eat¬
ing in this country. Will “ J. D.” kindly say
if he knows whether any of this Rice is obtain¬
able in England at the present time ; and if so,
where?—J. F. K.

POULTRY.

NOTES ON GEESE.

Whether geese are profitable or not depends
upon circumstances. Every farmyard is not
adapted for them, but I am very much inclined
to believe that much more could be made out of
them than is done at present by those who have
a large tract of meadow or natural Grass land,
where the geese could pasture. Geese are vege¬
tarians, and will gather the greater part of their
food at the roadsides and in waste places. They
must not be allowed amongst young pasture, or
they will play sad havoc with it, nipping the
young clover close to the root, and spoiling it for
a future crop. At this time of the year many
farmers use geese for “ stubblings, having a
boy to herd them. The best breed is un¬
doubtedly the Toulouse, which is long in body,
thick and square, having a very upright carriage.
The weight this variety attains is sometimes as
high as 60 pounds per pair, single ganders
weighing up to 36 and 38 pounds. The other
varieties besides the Toulouse are the Emden,
Chinese, Canadian, Egyptian, and Sebastopol.

Management ok geese.— Geese should not be
housed with other poultry, but have a house to
themselves, which should be kept scrupulously

Digitized by (jOOglC

clean and dry. A good litter of straw should be alone has a call note, “ Come back ! come back !”
provided, which should be shaken up with a fork j The eggs are usually laid astray, and two or
and often renewed. A pond is not absolutely neces- three hens will make use of one common nest.

sary, but is to be preferred. As regards food, they j
will cat any kind of vegetables boiled or raw.
Corn or barley meal may be given in moderation 1
at night. The young birds generally liegin to
lay in February, and lay from twelve to thirty
eggs. They get broody once or twice in a season,
and may be allowed to hatch their own eggs,
which take thirty days.

From the first the goslings should be liberally
fed on cooked soft food, with a good mixture of
vegetables, such as Cabbage, Turnips, Carrots,
Potatoes, &c. The old birds will guard and
take care of the young, but the goslings must
not be allowed to roost on damp ground. When
once fledged they require little care, and are
able to look after themselves. Some object to
let the old goose hatch her eggs, preferring to
set them under Brahmas or Cochins. Four or at
most five eggs should only be given to one hen,
and as the shells of the eggs are very thick
they should be frequently sprinkled with warm
water during the time of hatching. When the
goose is sitting, it is dangerous for strangers to
approach her, more especially if she be an old
bird, as she is very roady to attack them ;
whilst the old gander, who is on the watch ready
to defend her from molestation, will join in
the attack, and the stroke of his w ing has beon
known to break a man’s leg. It is, therefore,
obviously advisable to keep at a respectable
distance. The geese will not attack, but be on
very friendly terms with the woman in charge—
whom they know.

When geese are put up to fatten, they should
be confined in a dark place and fed upon corn
and water, or meal mixed with milk. The
down and feathers of geese are very valuable,
and in some parts of England are plucked at
regular intervals from the living specimens. Geese
are as good as a watch dog, giving warning
by their loud cackling on the approach of anyone.

Choice of stock. —In buying geese for breed¬
ing, see that the gander and goose are not
related ; and as the age is difficult to guess,
reject those with feathers almost touching the
ground, and which are fat and very much in¬
clined to a baggy appearance behind. The
number of geese to a gander should not exceed
three or four. Ganders should not be kept
more than two or three seasons, as after that
they become very ill-natured and troublesome
—a perfect terror to all the smaller occupants
of the farmyard. Geese are not so troublesome,
and will livo and be productive to a good old
age—thirty, forty, and fifty years being by no
means rare. P.

Roup In hens. —Roup is the most common
and the most fatal of poultry diseases. It
resembles glanders in horses, and has a conta¬
gious or infectious character; it particularly
attacks ill-fed fowls in close and filthy places.
The symptoms arc swelling round the eyes, dis¬
charge from the nostrils, and a limpid but even¬
tually purulent and ftetid drivelling from the
mouth. All fowl attacked should be promptly
separated from the rest, and all yards, &c.,
where it breaks out ought to be thoroughly
cleaned, and kept in a tidy, sweet, and well-
ventilated condition. Many nostrums are pre¬
scribed, and possibly amongst the best is a
sufficient quantity of a strong solution of com¬
mon salt to act as an emetic, and a mass of
Garlic, Rue, and butter well beaten together,
and crammed down their throat. The grand
remedies, however, are prevention by cleanli¬
ness, ventilation, and proper feeding for the
sound birds, and warmth and thorough shelter,
combined with proper ventilation, for those
affected. Roup attacks not only the common
gallinaceous fowl, but all the feathered inmates
of the yard, even ducks and geese. In the case
of thelastit takes the name of “gargle.”—P. H.

Guinea fowl.—These birds are not poly¬
gamous ; each male prefers to have a single mate.
Therefore, if the object bo the production of
young, they should be kept in pairs according to
the number required ; even then a large percent-
»go of the eggs will prove unfertile. We have
kept guinea fowls for many years, and our great
ana invariable disappointment arises from the
eggs not being impregnated. The sexes in these
birds are so much alike in outward appearance
that they are hardly distinguishable. One unfail¬
ing test for the selection of pairs is that the female *

The situation of this is often betrayed by the
over anxiety of the cock in his attendance on
the hen. The female commences to lay about
the end of March and the beginning of April.
The youDg are hatched mostly by common henp.
Occasionally a Guinea hen will bring off a brood,
but with us it has always been so late in the
season that, with the impossibility of getting
them in a coop, most of the chicks have died
off during the autumn. As soon as a sufficiency
of eggs is obtained, we place them under our
Dorking hens for hatching, giving about seven¬
teen eggs to a hen. The period of incubation
is four weeks. Besides, perhaps, requiring more
attention, we do not find the young any more
difficult to rear than other chickens. The great
thing is togive them proper food. This willconsist
of hard-boiled eggs and breadcrumbs, maggots
and ants’ eggs, which are indispensable, curds,
scraps of meat, bones to pick, Rice, small Wheat,
&c. The coop should be placed in a warm and
dry situation on the Grass, and moved often.
They require to be constantly fed and carefully
tended till the horn on their heads is fully
developed, afterwards they will require no more
attention than other poultry. Of all poultry
they are the most unprofitable ; they are a long
time on hand, and the price they realise is not
in proportion to the attention they require.
We keep them for variety, and because they
afford a dainty dish at a time when other poultry
are scarce or out of season.—S. H. W.

Guinea fowls.—To " N. A. P.”—I have some Guinea
fowls nearly full grown which you can have.—Mrs.
Pritchett, Ivy Cottage, Chalk Hill, Watford.

- In reply to “ N. A. P.,” I have got some Guinea

fowls to dispose of.—E dward Gvdd, WtstergaU House,
Aldinghoume, Chichester.

Pigeon—I have a pigeon with a rattling noise in its
throat, and it seems to have a cough when it ie eating.
Will any one tell me what to do with it? I do n ot want
to kill it.— J. E. W.

HOUSEHOLD.

Soda cake. —Half-pound flour, 3 oz. butter,
\ lb. currants, 6 oz. white moist sugar, half a
teacupful of milk, one egg, half a teaspoonful
of carbonate of soda. Rub the butter into th
flour, add the currants and sugar, mix well
together. Whisk the eggs well, mix it with the
milk, in which the carbonate of soda has been
previously dissolved, mix these with the dry
ingredients. Butter a mould or cake tin and
bake in a moderate way. The mixture must be
thoroughly mixed and put into the oven imme¬
diately on the addition of the soda, or the cake
will be heavy. Great care must be taken that
the cake is quite done through, which may be
ascertained by thrustiDg a knife into the
middle. If the knife comes out clean and
bright, the cake is done. The top of the cake
should be covered with a sheet of white buttered
paper to prevent its burning.

SWEET-SCENTED PLANTS.— Six of the

^ most delicious of all flowers for iierfume are Stephanotis
floribunda (flue variety), Is. 6d. each; Gardenia florida, Is. 3d.:
Gardenia citriodora, 2b. 6d.; Pancratium fragrant, 2 b. <xl.; P.
speciosum, 2s. 6d. ; Jnsminum Maid of Orleans, Is. The sii
fine strong plants for flower this winter for 10s. Package
gratis and Ferns extra to pay carriage.—JOHN H. LEV,
Woods!de Green. South N o rwood, 8.E. _

MOST ELEGANT PALMS for 6s.—Three

G pairs of Cocoa Woddelliana, Aroca liitesccnn, Cocos phi-
mosa ; pretty plants in small pots ; hamper gratis. - JOHN 11.
LEY, Woodslde Green. 8.E. __

"I O DRACAENAS, 4-inch pots, 12s.—All finest

To an d distinct Boris. Just Rhowing colour ; in Mnch pots,
li feet to 2 feet high, 21b. dozen. Packages gTatis for ea*h
wi th orde r.- J. H. LEY. Woodslde Green, S.E

a ADIANTUM FARLEYENSE, 10s. 6d.—

G Remarkably beautiful plants with far flner fronds than
are usually seen, in 4-inch pots, but fit for 6-inch, and will
rapidly make large specimens.—JOHN H. LEY, WoodMde
Green, 8.E. _

ip HALF-HARDY FERNS, 6s. — Strong

plants from cold pit of the new Lastroa aristata varic-
gata, Cyrtomium lucidum, Tree Ferns, crested Scoloptii-
driums, and a great variety of others: all distinct. Box gratia
for cash ond oue Fern gratis.-JOHN H. LEY, Woodside
Green, g.E. __

6 DAY r ALLIAS, 6s.—Hare’s-foot, Squirrel’s-

foot. D. Tyerraani, D. tenuifolia, P i miners a, P. Notw*-
Zelandi®. Box gTatis, or by post for 6d. extra.—J. H. LEY.
Woodaide Green. B E._

Ip CROTONS, highly coloured, 12s.—Fino

TcJ plants in 4-inch pots of the beat sorts in cultivation ;s)<
distinct (any sort not required excluded). Double else. v*ry
handsome plants Jp 5-in'ch and 6-irfch pots, for 2.1a*. Pack a*. •
grails. —JOHN H. LEY. Woodside Gir»ea, S.F.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED.

Vol. VL

NOVEMBER 22, 1884.

No. 298.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

HELICHRYSUM ROSMARINIFOLIUM.

the advantage, but the town has wonderfully in¬
creased since 1874, and is now almost at my garden
door; indeed, I am not, “as the crow flies,”
three miles from the townh&U. I had before

outside the path are more beds, the lower
part being Grass, with beds cut in it, and
outside again are more beds with some Rhodo¬
dendrons and other shrubs at the back ;

The plant here figured is one of the few shrubby
members of the enormous genuB Helichrysum.
It succeeds well in the open air, at any rate in
the sooth of England—perhaps, to be quite cor¬
rect, I should say one of the very few which, to
my knowledge, has flourished outside without
protection in southern gardens for some
years. A well-grown specimen used to be one
of the ornaments in the wonderful garden of
the late Mr. G. C. Joad, at Oakfield, Wimbledon,
and this very plant found its way to Kew with
s large miscellaneous collection after that
gentleman’s death. A glance at the accompany¬
ing illustration, which represents a slender
branchlet, will give a better idea of the appear¬
ance of the species than a column of dry descrip¬
tion; suffice it to say that the plant in question
is a thoroughly worthy companion to the beauti¬
ful New Zealand Olearia Ha&sti, the golden¬
leaved Cassinia fulvida (Diplopappus chry-
aopbyllos of gardens), and some others of the
handsome southern hemisphere composites
which in comparatively recent years have been
introduced to this country. The little white
•tarry flower-heads
are produced in the
greatest profusion,
bat do not last,
either on the bush
or in the water, so
long as the larger
ones of the Olearia
Haasti. The foliage
is deep green and,
as might be inferred
from the specific
name, very like that
of the common Rose-
*nary. In a wild
state the typical
form, which we have
not Been in cultiva¬
tion, is much more
common ; it differs
principally in its
somewhat stouter
branches being ter¬
minated by large
dense corymbs. On
the Australian Alps
(Victoria), where it
wcends to an eleva¬
tion of from 4,000
fwt to 6,000 feet
above sea level, and
on the banks of tho

streams in the northern part of Tasmania, it
forms an handsome bush from 6 feet to 0 feet
in height, G. N.

DAHLIAS IN A LANCASHIRE GARDEN.
The interest which amateurs have taken during
the last few years in these flowers, particularly
the single variety, must be my excuse for send¬
ing these notes for insertion in Gardening,
giving my experience in the cultivation of
Dabluu, more particularly during the years
1853-4, for without taking two seasons a full
practical result cannot be obtained. I have
taken the title of this article, all but one word,

| om that genial and pleasant writer, the late
Ir. Henry A. Bright. In his journal, “ A Year
a s Lancashire Garden,” he writes :—“ Lanca-
dre is not the beat possible place for a garden,
rd to be within live miles of a large town is
tainly no advantage. We get smoke on one
|le, and salt breezes on another, and, worst of
> there comes down upon us every now and
!n » blast laden with heavy charcoal odours,
^ich is more deadly than either smoke or
Hi."

Hell, such is pretty well my position. I am,
Lwever, two miles nearer the same town and
K-t breezes, but the same distance further
tie objectionable chemical vforks,

grown Dahlias, but in the spring of 1883 I de¬
termined to make them a speciality, and so
obtained from Mr. Ware, of the Tottenham
Nurseries, some two dozen plants, all, with the
exception of Juarezi, single varieties. I did
fairly well with them and my double Dahlias
last year, and in due course took up and stored
daring the winter the tubers. These I keep
free from frost and heat in an unoccupied stable,
spread out on boards and covered over with old
hay. I lost very few tubers, and the single kept
better than the double.

Early this year I started my tubers, in slight
heat, under a very elderly glass roof, neither
wind nor rain proof (which must, I suppose, be
called a greenhouse), and as the young shoots
got some 3 inches long I potted them off
into thumb pots, some with portions of the
rooted tuber. All made good and rapid growth,
especially those with tubers attached. I gave
them one shift into larger pots, and they were
ready to plant out early in May. Amongst
these plants I had Lutea gr&ndiflora, Rob Roy,
Walter Ware, Mrs. Ii. Upcher, Paragon, White

Flowering spray of Helichrysum rosmarinifolium.

Queen, Gracilis elegans and perfecta, Buffalo,
Nora, Novelty, Thalia, and these with others
I had all planted by the middle of May, and cut
my first blossoms from Lutea grandiflora within
the first ten days of June, and in a short time
after many of the others were in good
blossom. 1 ran some risk from a late frost,
but then in this part of the world we
have always to reckon upon there being one
tolerably early in autumn. I escaped a late
spring frost, and so got my plants forward un¬
checked, indeed so forward that I had many in
blossom before some new plants I had from the
Tottenham Nurseries were ready to put out.

The newer varieties I had included Empress,
Mauve Queen (improved, I imagine), Negress,
Clown, Juno, Beacon, Lucy Ireland, George
Clark, Utility, Scarlet Defiance, Reginald,
Cherry, Emblem, Ac. The whole of the beds
were in good heat, but on planting I put addi¬
tional well rotted stable manure, and gave each
a good dose of manure water. I do not think
that all through the dry warm weather the
Dahlias ever flagged for want of water.

My premises are in shape oblong, the house,
with the yard more immediately belonging to
it, taking about half the width at one end ; the
main walk round the garden forms an irre¬
gular figure of eight—the top part of the
igure and the shoulders, so to say it—whilst

beyond that some eight acres of meadow
land. My newest plants I placed in the Grass
flat beds in the head of the Figure 8, and when
once settled they mAde rapid progress, and came
well into bloom all about the same time. I had
several Juarezi, Glare of the Garden, Constance,
double and Pompone Dahlias. I mention many
by name because I have observed in Gardening
Illustrated the difficulty some of your readers
seem to have experienced in blossoming
Jnarezi, and their donbts as to the single being
as hardy and floriferous as the doable. Now
this season I have grown several Juarezi plants
6 feet high and about 12 feet round, and have
generally had 6 to 8 good blossoms out,
besides buds, on each plant, and when the first
frost (the only frost we have yet had) came, on
the 13th Ootober, 1 counted 14 blossoms on
one Cactus. Mauve Queen Improved also
grew and blossomed wonderfully well, and
attained a height of 7 feet, the highest sprays
being in continual bloom.

The beds in the Grass plot were far enough
apart to allow walking between them, and the
luxuriant growth of
the Dahlias gave the
appearance of a
shrubbery, whilst
the beautiful colours
of the almost count¬
less blosaomB shono
like gems in the dark
setting of the leaves.

1 have cut many
hundreds of flowers
for neighbours —
bouquets, church de¬
corations, and home
use—and the supply
has been constant
and full, whilst the
great contrasts that
can be made with
such flowers as Ne¬
gress (almost black)
and White Queen,
and the prismatic
blending of colours
that can be made
with other flowers,
produce floral dis¬
plays that can hardly
be equalled by any
other combination of
hardy flowers. I
thought I would
mention by name those Dahlias that had
bloomed most abundantly, but when jotting
down the names I found all had blossomed so
freely that I gave up the idea.

I had hoped to have reached S. Luke's (or as
some call it the Indian) summer safely, but a
cruel white frost of a few hours on the morn¬
ing of October 13 alike cut down my hopes, my
Dahlias, Scarlet Runners, and Vegetable Mar¬
rows ; but my Chrysanthemums withstood the
enemy, so I have still a few flowers left. The
frost I refer to was very partial in its effects,
some gardens no great distance from mine being
adrnost untouched.

For the neighbourhood of large towns, where
the garden itself is tolerably open, Dahlias, and
Chrysanthemums, and early Tulips are the three
great flowers. I have grown all here with great
success, and am now beginning to take up my
Dahlias to prepare the beds for early Tulips,
and I advise all amateurs who have had any
difficulty in making their gardens bright to try
the same flowers. I do not say to the exclusion
of other flowers, for I have grown many myself,
such as Sweet Peas, Stocks, Marigolds, Gladioli,
Everlastings, Lobelias, Gazanias, Hibiscus,
Mignonette, Cloves, Ac, and with the happiest
results, such, indeed, as to maze me quite dis¬
card ■etlM^^^|^p!fA^p|^' , p^^ei)^ii|_| jTJbhi gjfr&r -
the result of , p.qre ^snd I

454

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 22, 1884.

may add that I raised a nice lot of some
seventy seedling Dahlias this year, but not
quite early enough to get them well into
blossom.

Lancashire, J. P.

Hardy Primroses from seed.— A few
years ago when seeds of various coloured Prim¬
roses were freely advertised, I secured a supply,
and the result was that a good stock of plants
was raised, and the variety of colours was truly
charming. They ranged from deep crimson to
mauve, and to the most delicately tinted
yellows; but, unfortunately, rabbits soon
worried the plants to death after they were put
out. In order to get strong plants for flowering
the next season, the seeds cannot be sown too
early in the new year. In our case they were
sown in pans which were placed in a cool house,
aud the soil was kept constantly moist, but as
the seeds are very small some care is necessary
in watering, or they are liable to be washed
out of the soil. It will be several weeks before
young plants show themselves, and when
they do they come up irregularly ; they should
not be disturbed until there is a number
sutticiently large to bear removal. In our
case we did not disturb them until the
end of May, when most of the seed had
produced plants. Previous to being trans¬
planted the pans were placed in a cold frame
for two or three weeks to get hardened. A
piece of ground was then prepared for them on
a shady border. In order to secure strong
plants they must have shade from bright sun,
and a cool rich soil to grow in. In our case we
placed some finely-sifted soil about their roots.
The space was marked out into rows 9 inches
apart; then a drill was drawn which was filled
with the fine soil. In this the plants were put
G inches apart, and by the end of the autumn,
thoy were large and strong. If the weather
should continue dry after the young
seedlings are put out they should have
two or three soakings of water in order
to get them established. In mild weather
in November they may be planted out where
they are to flower. Those fond of early flower¬
ing hardy plants could hardly do better than
raise two or three hundred plants of these
Primroses. Where there are no rabbits to in¬
terfere with them they are just the subjects to
adorn woodland walks and the fronts of shrub¬
bery borders, nor ought they to be excluded
from more prominent positions in the dressed
grounds.—J. C. C.

Marie Louise Violet. —Seeing no mention
made of this very valuable Violet in an other¬
wise excellent article on the cultivation of violets
a few weeks ago, allow me to say a few words
in its praise. As I am expected to supply
Violets nearly all the year round, I have at
different times given most of the so-called good
varieties a trial, and I have now discarded
nearly all for the Marie Louise. My experience
differs slightly from that of your correspondent,
as I find that all my plants for frames are best
grown under a north wall. Thus grown, I find,
with a very little attention in regard to watering
and syringing, that they keep quite free of red
spider, their greatest enemy. Our frames of
Marie Louise bloom continuously and very
profusely all through the autumn, winter, and
spring, and when not wanted for propagating
purposes, by judiciously shading them on bright
sunny days, we have sometimes kept the same
plants blooming from the middle of April till
the middle of June. No other variety with
which I am acquainted will yield such a con¬
tinual supply of sweet-scented flowers for such
a length of time. We commence to propagate
our stock of this variety for frames early in May.
I use a frame for that purpose, as I find that
they root more quickly and without flagging in
a frame. We begin by placing a two-light
frame under a north wall, leaving a space
between the wall and the frame for the con¬
venience of working ; fine sandy soil is then
thrown in to the depth of 3 inches. The plants
are then taken from their winter quarters and
divided, always selecting the strongest pieces
or crowns with small roots attached to each for
this purpose. They are at once inserted in the
frame. After planting, they are, of course,
well watered with a fine rosed pot. About
three weeks after insertion they will be well
rooted and ready to transfer to their summer
quarters, under &rnovth wall. A j piece of well-

Digitize by GO gle

manured ground is there prepared for them,
and they are planted out in beds 5 feet wide,
with a space of 10 inches or a foot between the
runs, and G or 7 inches from plant to plant.
When planting is finished another good soaking
is given, and from that they are never allowed
to become d ry. A good syringing is also given them
after every warm day. Owing to being planted
under a north wall, and the constant syringing in
dry weather, our plants are never attacked by red
spider. Fromthemiddle to the end ofSeptember,
when they have attained a large size, we proceed
to prepare the frames for their reception. A
good layer of long litter is first put into the
frames, as the slight warmth from the litter
gives the plant a start, and afterwards acts as
drainage. Upon the litter 8 inches or 9 inches
of any good soil is put, and into this the plants
are planted with a trowel as closely as possible
without crowding. Should the weather b©
sunny, it will be necessary to Bhade with mats
for a week or two. I have omitted to say
that wo place the frames to contain the plants
for winter blooming in the sunniest position we
can Belect, and from these frame3 we have no
difficulty in getting a good supply of Marie
Louise Violets for nine months and sometimes
ten out of twelve.—G. T. B.

Permanent bulb beds.— Many of the
hardier kinds of bulbs, such as Daffodils,
Jonquils, single Tulips, &c., are most useful for
furnishing cut flowers, and I find that if left in
the soil for several years undisturbed they do
far better than if annually lifted. As they
make their leaf growth and die down again
early in the season, they may be economically
rown as regards space along with plants that
ower in summer and autumn. The plan which
I adopt is to set out beds about 4 feet or 5 feet
wide, with alleys between them for convenience
in gathering flowers. In planting Carnations,
Phloxes, Pieonies, Larkspurs, Roses, and hosts
of other good things for cutting in the same beds,
I set them in cross rows at good distances apart,
and then put in an intermediate row of bulbs.
I find that mixtures of this kind get on extremely
well together. If the soil is deeply cultivated
and enriched before planting, a top-dressing of
leaf-mould or manure is all they will require for
two or three years, when both plants and bulbs
will need lifting and dividing ; and now that the
demand for cut flowers is increasing beyond
ordinary sources of supply being able to meet it,
I can heartily recommend this practice to others.
At Easter and Whitsuntide, when these early-
flowering bulbs come in, there is always a great
demand for both indoor and church decorations,
and Daffodils are exceptionally well suited for
such purposes.—J. G. G.

Stocks.—A cottager here had last summer
one of the finest displays of white Stocks I ever
saw. There was a row of them on each side of
a path some 60 feet long, the plants being dwarf,
more than a foot across, and completely
smothered with blooms. The effect produced by
this mass of white flowers was very striking.
This is certainly one of the finest strains of
double Stocks I ever saw, and originated in a
rather curious manner. The cottager in question
had two years ago some Stock seed given him,
and amongst the plants raised was a single white
one. The seed from this was.sown, and strange to
say nearly the whole of the offspring have per¬
fectly double flowers. Last winter being very
mild and dry, Stocks came through well and
flowered beautifully, so that for many years so
many had not been brought into Covent Garden
market as during the post flowering time. The
lovely colours and fragrance of Stocks recom-
mend them to all lovers of flowers, and, their
culture being so simple, anyone may grow them
to perfection. There are several distinct families
of Stock, the finest of which is, I think, the
East Lothian. To obtain the finest effect these
are capable of affording they should be sown
in June or July; then they become large and
bushy by the winter, and yields a grand mass of
bloom the following year. If sown later than
this, and transplanted the following spring, they
bloom successionally through late summer and
autumn. They require a well-stirred, friable,
fairly-enriched, but not too rich soil, as if they
get too much good food they are apt to go off
in winter when the weather is severe. The
more succulent the stems and foliage the more
likely are they to succumb, therefore they
should enjoy the Bun in its greatest force

throughout the growing period—grown in
partial shade they never have the substance
and vigour they should possess. Ten-week
Stocks, when well grown, are amongst the most
effective of garden flowers. There are several
distinct varieties of them, varying inhabits and
stature. The tallest growing kind is Sutton's
Giant Branching, which runs up to a height of
2\ feet, and the smallest is the Superb dwarf,
which does not attain more than 10 inches in
height. Then there is the dwarf Pyramidal,
giving a larger proportion of double flowers than
any other variety, the Wallflower-leaved and
the ordinary strain, so that there is plenty of
choice amongst these Ten-week Stocks. The
colours range from pure white, through pink,
purple, and scarlet, to crimson, and a bed of
mixed colours in full bloom presents a rich and
imposing appearance. The easiest way of rais¬
ing them is to sow under a handlight early in
April in light soil. As soon as they are well
up commence to accustom them to the open air
by removing the light on fine days, and giving
air, except in dry windy weather. By the end
of May they will have formed fine sturdy little
plants, and can be set out in their permanent
quarters. These summer-blooming Stocks like
good soil, well stirring it previous to planting,
and working in some good rotten manure. If
this cannot be had, a good sprinkling of Clay’s
Fertiliser will do just as well, digging it in with
the soil. Plant them 6 inches apart, give them
an occasional soaking of water in hot dry weather,
and you will have something worth looking at
in due course. The old Brompton Stock is well
known, being often seen in good condition in the
gardens of cottagers, many of whom pride
themselves on keeping a fine strain of them.
More especially is the Giant variety esteemed
by them, and in the often sheltered sunny cot¬
tage gardens they come large and fine, and
stand well through the winter. When loaded
with large bright rosy flowers, theseGiant Stocks
present a picture of floral beauty such as is
equalled by few of the inmates of our gardens.
There is a selection of the Brompton Stock called
the Queen, the colours of which are very true
and distinct. These are grown by the acre by
the London market growers, waggon loads of
them being seen in a single morning in Covent
Garden. They should be sown in J une or J illy
to stand the winter.— Byfleet.

12218.— Crocus bulbs.— I planted a row of white,
blue, and yellow Crocuses about twenty years ago ; they
flowered well the first year, and continued to improve year
after year, and now. after remaining in the same place with¬
out being disturbed for twenty vears, they flower quite as
abundantly a.s ever they did.—j. D. E.

12202.— Clematis montana.— Themontana Clematis
flowers only on the wood of the previous season’s growth,
so that if this Is pruned off there will he no bloom.—A3L M.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

Purple sprouting Broccoli.— This old
fashioned variety has been in danger of being
put aside to make room for new sorts. It onght,
however, to find a place in every garden, as it is
one of the hardiest vegetables grown, and
produces a greater quantity of edible produce
than almost any other kind of Broccoli ; after
the main crown is cut away the stem continues
to produce little heads or sprouts that are very
delicious. Sow it in March and put out the
plants in rows 2^ feet apart in May ; it then has
time to make fine plants before winter sets in,
and if the latter proves mild it is fit for cutting
early in the new year. The sprouts or small
heads that form on the stem continue to be
produced for a length of time, and in seasons
when nearly all white Broccolis have been
destroyed by frost this hardy kind lias stood,
uninjured and proved most acceptable, for rus
regards flavour hardly any kind of vegetable
surpasses it. Its colour is agamst it, but that,

is an objeotionwhich its merits soon overcome.-

J. G. H.

Brown Cos Lettuce. —This is un doubt e<l 1 y
the best of all varieties for winter salads. The
best way of protecting those nearly fit for use
to work dry leaves amongst them and lay a few
Pea sticks over all to keep them in their pla,o«i.
Asparagus tops make most useful protection
Buch produce, as they adnrit air and ward oj
frost. It is surprising how much frost may
kept off by such easily-applied protectors ;
fact, less loss will occur in the case of croj'va sa
■protected than in-close pijp or frames. Snd

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN |

>!ov. 22, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

455

sessional crops for early spring use may be J
carried safely through severe visitations of frost j
by means of light coverings of this kind. If
Bracken is procurable, there are many kitchen
garden crops, such as Winter Spinach, Parsley,
Endive, anti other salading, that will be grateful
for its shelter; and if a good covering of it is
placed over Rhubarb crowns, it will materially
forward the crop. Light evergreen branches
also considerably assist in breaking the wind
that is frequently more destructive than frost
itself.—J. G. H.

Springe Cabbages. —These are still being
planted in open fields by market growers who do
not fetter themselves by fixed dates, but are
guided by the state of the land and the weather.
The latter having been favourable lately, large
breadths of Cabbage plants have been put out,
and the surface stirred amongst those planted
early to promote growth ; as soon as they are
large enough or show the least signs of prema¬
ture running to Beed, they are pulled up and
banched and sent to market. Market growers
generally raise their own plants, they sow a
quantity of seed broadcast thinly on large beds
in an open position ; therefore their plants are
robnst when put out; and as plenty of manure
is ploughed into the land, the roots strike into
it at once, and it is seldom that the plants suffer
from frost in these open fields so much as they
do in enclosed gardens. Cabbage plants grow
beat on pretty firm land. Wheregarden Cabbages
are put on land that has been recently trenched,
their growth is not equal to that made on land
that has been ploughed ; in fact, for the Brassica
tribe generally I believe that it is hardly possible
to get the soil too firmly consolidated ; in dry
weather it is even sometimes advisable to roll the
land with a heavy iron roller before planting, for if
loose, the roots do not seem able to get hold of
the soil. Short, stocky plants let into the soil
up to the leaves, so that they cannot wind-wave,
make the best Cabbages. Early Fulham and
Early York, or selections from these, are the
kinds in most request hereabouts.—J. G. G.

Tomato grrowingf. — 1 have read “Jersey
Cardener,” of Oct. 18, also “London Grower”of
Nov. S. My span-roof greenhouse is 30 feet by
20 feet; out of this the cistern takes up 17 feet
by 3 feet. It is about 12 feet rafter. In it I
planted 157 plants, each with one stem, from 12
inches to 15 inches apart each way. I have
never used heat. I sowed my seeds in boxes in
January, and transplanted the plants in pots
about the second week in March, and then re¬
moved them from pots into greenhouse the first
week in April. I began to cut the second week
in July, and received lOd. per pound. The
lowest I received was 7d. until the end of Sep¬
tember, when I only had Gd. per pound. In
this one span-roof greenhouse, not heated, I had
1,1001b. I had two sorts—Trophy and Sims’
Mammoth. My vines are now in full bearing,
consequently I have to give up Tomatoes.—
•Jersey Amatkub.

-Having perused the letters which ap

peared in your last upon the interesting state ■
mentof “Jersey Gardener,” I venture to give
you my experience as an amateur. I put into
12-inch boxes this year forty plants, and placed
them round the sides and in the middle of a
Bpau-roof house which measures 30 feet by 12
feet. Up to date I have picked 1,680 saleable
Tomatoes, which could be fairly averaged at six
to the pound. This will give a total weight of
280 lb., at 8d. per pound, £9 7s. 6d. My friends
vhohaveseen tne crop at various times described
t as the best crop they had seen, and I may add
ihafc I am well satisfied with it myself. You
nay judge of ray surprise on reading the most

S raordinary statements of “Jersey Gardener,”
I feel extremely anxious to know how he
it. A friend of mine, whose house is just
ble the length of mine, and 14 feet wide, put
plants into pots, and the crop will not reach
>n ; but he is well satisfied with the result of
first year's effort in this increasingly interest-
business of Tomato growing. I may add
t my plants are still bearing, and evidently
*1 continue to do so for some time yet. I keep
fl’emperature to 60 degs. in the day, and about
Afegs. during the night. The house is heated
■W 4 inch pipes, flow and return about 80 feet,
frait Betting in winter, I find great diffi-
in this respect. The sorts grown in my
i ** are the Trophy and Large These ai

^tiaf&ctory croppers, ™

Liargo K§u. These are
■s. Th/great fault in thj

new round kind is the splitting on the back of
the fruit, and irregularity of shape, also the
liability to disease.—W. Baknes.

Green Mint.—This is one of the herbs in
great request in early spring ; good strong
clumps of it should therefore be lifted as wanted
and placed in shallow boxes filled with fine soil,
and placed in a warm house where it will soon
make growth fit for cutting. A vinery or Peach
house just started is a good position for it, and
in some soils the roots need frequent transplant¬
ing to keep up a good supply. If the roots that
have been forced are planted out in May on fresh
soil to succeed the open-air beds, there will be no
lack of green tops at any time of the year or
roots fit for forcing.—J. G. H.

12232.—Cauliflowers clubbing.—A large grower
for market told me that if a remedy could be found to pre¬
vent clubbing in Cauliflowers and Cabbages the man who
invented it would soon realise a fortune. Some soot
strewed on the ground is as good a deterrent as anything,
but there is no real remedy.—J. D. E.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

JAPANESE MAPLES.

Tiie.se, in common with many more excellent
shrubs, have for a long time been under the
bane of a false frost-tender reputation, which
has, unfortunately, hindered their propagation
and prevented them from taking that place in
British gardens which they long ago might and

Acer palmatum.

| ought to have occupied. I have before spoken
of the beauty and hardiness of one of these
Maples, and I am again induced to make an
effort to redeem them from almost utter neg¬
lect, and, if possible, instil into others some¬
thing of the admiration which I myself have for
them. The common Acer palmatum forms a
dense, average-sized shrub, having numerous
long thin shoots and opposite small palmate, at
first light, afterwards dark green leaves. A p.
atro-purpureum has larger, at first bright, after¬
wards dark, red leaves on stouter shoots. A. p.
dissectum has finely-cut skeleton-like apple-
green leaves, equalling the finest Ferns in their
Vandyked veination. Sub variety rubrum of
the last is characterised by its reddish brown
leaves, and presents a fine contrast to the last
named. Both are very attractive either in the
mixed shrubbery or singly on a lawn. They
ought to be planted close to walks in order that
the tracery of their elegant leaves might be the
better studied. I have enumerated the most
distinct and striking of the varieties for outdoor
planting, but there are many more polymorphic
forms, some of which have prettily variegated
leaves, but though all are perfectly hardy, they
are better calculated for conservatory decora-
^on than for any decided effect out-of-doors. I

am not going to underrate the qualities of such
ornamental plants as purple Oaks, Beeches, &c.,
but I only say that A. p. atro-purpureum is the
most ornamental shrub of all. Seen near, its
foliage is not only dazzling, but also exceed¬
ingly neat; seen from afar, it scintillates
among other shrubs like a rnby. May I be
allowed to suggest that this plant might be
advantageously used for bedding purposes ?
Plants, say, from 1 foot to 2 feet in height
planted permanently in beds would produce
such a show as no Althernanthera, Iresine,
or similar plants are capable of making, and
though the plant in question is deciduous, the
bare twigs in winter need be no objection to its
use in this way, as even nude twigs are surely
as pleasant to look upon as the bare black soil
of beds in winter, all the more conspicuous after
the fiery glare of autumn has vanished.

S. G.

12209. — Soil for Rhododendrons.—
Some years ago I was similarly circumstanced
as “ E. W. C. Peat was not to be had nearer
than nine miles, and the quantity I would
require at 5s. per load would cost me a con¬
siderable sum, having several large beds to do.
Everyone in the habit of buying peat knows
what very little a load contains—I, particularly,
as I discovered my peatman had a clever way
of making three loads out of two by a process
called “channelling.” This is done by falling
his loads outside town, and standing his sods on
end French drain fashion, and sending the boy
up with the third, “If you want it, sir.” As
this was too expensive for me, I, too, had to
look for a substitute. I argued—What is peat
but decayed vegetable matter? so, having a
large heap of material such as rakingB of
Grass, leaves, weeds—in fact, garden refuse
of every kind, which remained in a by¬
corner for a number of years, and was
thoroughly decayed into mould, I thought
I would try this, so accordingly I filled up my
beds, got in my plants, and up to the present I
have no reasons for regret; they bloomed quite
as well as if grown in genuine peat. Another
circumstance, although outside the subject, was
this : I planted a line of Japan Primulas around
one bed, which, after flowering, shed their seed
and germinated so freely in this stuff that they
now form a belt 4 feet wide. Standing out well
year after year, they are sheltered by a tall
shrubbery screen on three sides, with a few
specimen Conifers in front, just enough to shade
from sun in summer.—J. G., Cork.

12236.—Potting Rhododendrons.—Pot them now
The Ampelopsis may also be potted.— J. D. E.

Heating a small greenhouse. — The
question is frequently asked, “ How to heat a
small greenhouse ?” Having been pretty success¬
ful in doing this, may I be allowed to give my
experience ? My house is a lean-to, about 9 feet
by 7 feet; it is placed in a small yard at back
of dwelling-house surrounded by buildings,
consequently in winter I get an abundance of
damp, but very little sun. In the right-hand
corner of the front is a fire-place, the door for
stoking, &c., being outside, whilst the place for
containing fire is inside the house. By this ar
rangement no smoke or smuts gets into the house,
whilst no heat is lost. The chimney or flue
goes along one end, full length of the back, and
passes out through the roof at the left-hand
corner of the back. Over the fire-place I have
a bed or border about 2 feet square ; this is ex¬
tremely useful for raising seeds, striking cut¬
tings, and many other purposes. If the house
gets very damp I light a good smart fire, open
all ventilators, and it quickly dries. If it gets
at any time too dry then I keep my bed or border
damp, which throws off a moist heat and coun¬
teracts the dry heat of the flues. My fire well
banked up keeps in twelve hours (I have found
life in it after twenty hours), but should it burn
out quicker, the brickwork and flues do net get
cool very quickly, thus the heat in the house is
well sustained. Of course there is a difficulty
as to stoking, but it is only a very small one ;
a few live coals from the kitchen grate or a
“cube” fire-lighter soon sets the fire going, and
once lighted it is easily kept up. Mine will
burn anything, rubbish from the house grates,
coke or coal. Should any of your readers think
of following my plan, I advise them to have a
moderately large fire-place, and not less than
G-inchsanit iry pipes for flues.— Novick, prisiol

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

45(5

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 22, 1884.

THE COMING- WEEK'S WORK.
Glasshouses.

Ferns. —The adaptability for cutting which
Ferns possess in a great measure depends upon
the way in which they have been grown.
Adiantums, such as A. cuneatum, A. gracilli-
inum f A. trapeziforme, A. formosum, and A.
Farleyense, with the common and crested
drooping forms of Pteris serrulata, are mostly
in demand for cutting, but if these are grown
under conditions of too much warmth and
utmoapheric moisture, with an insufficiency
of light and air, they invariably llag
when cut, a state it is needless to say that
renders them useless. In growing these Ferns
with a view to using them in a cut state, very
little shade should be given, and none during
the autumn and winter months, with no more
moisture in the atmosphere than is consequent
upon the evaporation of such water as perco¬
lates through the soil after watering, and from
that which is unavoidably spilled about in the
operation, plenty of air admitted daily, and the
plants kept well up to the glass. The favourite
A. cuneatum in the London market is now
much better liked when it possesses the pale
greenish yellow shade, such as the half matured
fronds have, than when of a darker colour.
This may usually be secured by subjecting the
plants to quite cool treatment when the fronds
are about half grown, which invariably has the
effect of arresting their much further develop¬
ment, and in a great measure fixes the light
tint. Previous to use, all Fern fronds should
be cut and immersed overhead in water for
several hours, the water thus absorbed doing
much to prevent their flagging. Adiantuin
formosum is the best of the species for lasting
long without drooping, and is very useful for
mixing in the larger arrangements of flowers,
such as vases, Ac. The same may be said of
the best large drooping-crested forms of Pteris
serrulata, which in large stands have a fine
effect Plants of Adiantum that have been hard
cut during the summer and have been induced
to make growth late in the season should now
have plenty of air and be kept at an ordinary
greenhouse temperature for some weeks before
the fronds are cut for use.

Cyclamenh. —To insure as long a season for
these as possible the plants should be divided
and kept in two different temperatures ; those
that are flowering or fast approaching this con¬
dition produce the finest blooms when accommo¬
dated with the temperature of a warm green¬
house, say 45 degs. to 50 degs. by night, and a
little warmer in the day, but with this they
should be kept well exposed to the light with
air every day. Give particular attention to
keeping down aphides, which, if allowed to
remain undisturbed even for a short time, do
irreparable mischief to the leaves and advancing
flowers. Those that are intended to succeed
the earliest blooming lot should be kept quite
cool, so as to retard the expansion of the flowers
as long as possible.

Epacrises.— These, if grown in sufficient
quantities and well managed, will be extremely
useful, lasting individually for many weeks,
and being equally adapted for cutting as for
ordinary decoration on the plants. They will
bear more warmth than Heaths, but unless
they are backward in blooming, or flowers are
required at once, it is better to keep them
quite cool. Their time of flowering is best
regulated by the way they are managed in
respect to growth. Those that were late in
completing and maturing their wood will come
into bloom later as a matter of course. To still
further retard those that are wanted to last
until spring, they should be kept as cool as con¬
sistent with the exclusion of frost; this they
will bear without any injury, as a low tempera¬
ture with them has not, as in the case of some
plants, the effect of inducing the appearance of
mildew. But Epacrises are very impatient of
the least approach to over-watering, and never
should have it applied until the soil has got so
dry as to be dangerous if it is longer withheld.

Epiphyllums.— Plants of Epiphyllum trun-
catum, although individually so effective when
in bloom, are unfortunately not of long dura¬
tion in the individual flowers ; consequently it
is not well to have many in at once. With this
view only a few should be put into heat at a
time, at intervals of two or three! weeks, and on

Digitized by ^jlQOOlC

no account should they be hurried on too fast,
otherwise their fugitive tendency will be
increased; and with all soft textured flowers
like these it is particularly essential that there
is too much moisture in the atmosphere of the
house or pit where they are brought on into
bloom. Large flowered Epiphyllums and the
Cactus family generally should at this season not
be located in a cold, damp house, and care
ought to be taken that the soil is not too moist ;
the condition best described as between slightly
moist and quite dry suits them best when cool
and at rest, otherwise the comparatively few
roots which they make are liable to perish.
The e large flowered species bloom naturally
later than the truncatum section ; nevertheless
they will bear forcing if required early, and
with this intention, if there is any likelihood
of a scarcity of flowers during the early months
of the year, they may be put in heat and
brought on slowly, being careful not to give
much water at the roots until the heads of the
plants have got into a plump condition, which
they soon will through the moisture absorbed
from the atmosphere of a warm house.

Myrtles. —These are most useful in the
w inter season, and if the plants have been well
managed, so as to make their growth early and
get the wood well matured by being stood out
in the sun through the summer, they force well.
Independent of their appearance when in bloom,
they are very serviceable for cutting, their pretty
flowers and neat foliage being very effective
combined with other things of a more showy
character. The miniature variety, Jenny Keiten-
bach, is one of the best for bouquets.

Bedding plants. —There is much to do in
the way of picking off the dead leaves of Pelar¬
goniums, dusting Verbenas with sulphur to
destroy mildew, and fumigating others that are
attacked with green fly. Violas, Gnaphaliums,
Calceolarias, and other kinds that are planted
out in cold pits are being surfaced with Cocoa
fibre for the double purpose of keeping out frost
and rendering it unnecessary to water them for
some weeks to come. Seeds of the following
kinds of succulents, if sown now, will make good
plants for next season: Echeveria metallica,
E. glauca metallica, E. secunda glauca, Semper-
vivum tabula*florum, S. canariense and S. Donke-
laari. The propagation of other kinds by leaves
or offsets may go on all through the winter.

Flower Garden.

Dog’s-tooth Violets. — Nothing in their
way can be more beautiful than the varieties of
Erythronium (Dog’s-tooth Violets); those who
intend growing these should procure E. gigan-
teum or grandiflorum, a fine red variety ; E.
album majus, a very large flowered pure white,
much superior to the old white variety ; E.
americanum lanceolatum, yellow, a very distinct
and desirable kind ; E. atro-roseum, a deep
rose-coloured kind ; E. purpureum majus, with
la r ge mauve - purple flowers ; E. giganteum
album, splendid white, bearing eight or ten
flowers on a stalk ; E. giganteum flavum, fine
golden yellow. Either grown together in a
bed or in good-sized patches at the front of the
herbaceous border, these plants have a charming
effect, not alone for the beauty of their flowers,
but their handsome mottled leaves are very
attractive ; they should be planted without
delay.

Ranunculuses. —Hardy kinds of these, such
as the Turban varieties, may now be planted in
situations where the soil is dry ; but the more
valuable sorts should not, except in very
favourable positions, be planted yet, as they are
apt to suffer from wet by lying too long in the
ground.

Anemones should be largely grown where a
succession of handsome hardy flowers is held in
estimation, the plants, from their compact habit
and the continuous brilliant-coloured blooms
which they produce, being almost without a
rival; the single scarlet variety is most effec¬
tive, commencing to flower in a mild season
during the first month in the year. Anemones
like a moderately rich, free soil, and if grown
in clumps in the herbaceous border should
occupy a front position on account of their dwarf
habit of growth. A very pleasing effect may be
produced in spring by planting large masses of
Snowdrops, Crocuses, and Daffodils in the
Grass in different parts of the lawn, in Grass
plots, in out-of-the-way comers, or in front of
shrubbery borders and under trees. These may

be either planted in patches or dispersed G
inches or 8 inches apart over the available
ground. The places chosen for the plants of
this kind should not be in too close proximity
to the dwelling, as the tops ought not to be
removed in the spring until after they are dead,
which, in a very prominent position, would be
unsightly. Where any of the above plants are
to be so arranged they should be planted im¬
mediately.

Crocuses and Snowdrops may be pat in by
making holes with an ordinary dibber, covering
the bulbs with a little loose soil ; for Daffodils,
holes must be made with a spade, but whatever
way the planting is effected it can with ordinary
care be done even on Grass without having an
unsightly appearance.

Shrubbery.

Contrary to the general practice, we always
clear out all the leaves from Rhododendrons and
other shrubbery clumps, for the simple reason
that were they left we should be pestered with
sweeping up whenever there was the least wind,
and so we prefer to mulch the clumps as soon as
cleared out with the mould from leaves stacked
two or more years ago, and plants that have
been recently moved receive a treble portion by
way of protection to their injured roots, and no
doubt, also, the extra warmth thus assured aids
new root formation. Advantage is taken of dry
frosty mornings to wheel this material to the
desired spots, and also to stack up fresh leaves,
and to wheel manure and soil to plots that are
being prepared for planting, as we have always
some of this on hand ; and though we would
prefer to discontinue moving shrubs after
December has commenced till February, neces¬
sity often compels us to keep on all through the
winter whenever the weather permits, and
hitherto, by taking extra care not to allow the
plants to be out of the ground longer than is
absolutely necessary and staking and thickly
mulching them as soon as planted, we have
found winter planting to be just as successful as
autumn or spring. With one exception only—
viz., Hollies, all kinds of trees and shrubs may
be successfully transplanted throughout the
winter. Hollies we have also done, but cannot
recommend the practice, at least, not as com¬
pared with plants moved during April and May.
As with planting, so with pruning shrubs and
cutting hedges, we arc compelled to be
heterodox, and do them whenever an oppor
tunity occurs, without reference to the season,
and at the present time are busy clipping
Yew screens, Holly and Privet hedges, and
cutting Btraggling shoots off Rhododendrons
that are growing under the shade of large trees
that in such positions develop this kind ol
growth, and to keep them in anything like
compact form they need such attention every
year. Common and Portugal Laurels are beinf
pruned into form, and upright-growing shrubs,
such as Junipers and Irish Yews, are berngdrawE
together with tar cord to prevent wind and snow¬
storms from breaking off any of the outside
branches. Some few Conifers, especially the
strongest-growing young plants, need to have
some of the uppermost branches stopped, and
the points pinched out, that the plants may
grow into a good shape. The leaders should be
preserved from injury from birds perching on
them by tying straight sticks to the stems, the
top of which should be a foot or so above the
top of the trees.

Fruit.

Early vines.— The first house of permanent j
vines, which was closed about the middle of this ^
month, must be fairly at work by the first week ’
in December, when, in order to economise fire !}
heat and to insure an even break, particularly ■ f
where the vines are young, the preparation auc l>
introduction of fermenting material, consistinj ^
of leaves and short stable manure, must be re
duced to a system. If an open shed is at coir
mand this will be found the best place for tb ^
reserve, as heavy falls of rain and snow ca ^
then be received with impunity. As the bud ^
show signs of swelling gradually raise 11 ►'
temperature by day, but until after 11
shortest day let the heat range about 60 deg
at night. Keep every part of the house nice 3
moistened with the syringe, and syringe t J!
rods frequently when fire-heat is on. At otH /
times set moisture and ammonia at liberty ^
turning the leaves, afia take in fresh supplies }
j may be thought necessary, ' ffy

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN J ‘

Nov. 22, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

45?

Mid-season vines may be pruned and the equal to the demand, the same treatment applies HINTS FOR BEGINNERS._I.

houses got ready for shutting up as soon as the to Plums, Apricots, and in some cases to Pears, ...

vines are clear of foliage. If insects of any kind but where the latter are quite free fromscale they £ here will a ^ wa y a bo a number of readers who
have been troublesome remove all the loose may be nailed in without delay. When pruning bav . e taken U P gardening for the first time m
bark, scrub the old spurs with strong soapy old trees it is a good plan to thin out the spurs taeir * lv ®s, and who require instructions of the
water, stop all suspicious holes and cracks with and to scrape the Moss and Lichens off the J n09 . t elementary character. For theso the fol-
pure Gishurst, and paint with a solution of the branches for the twofold purpose of letting in P a P er8 aI I e intended,

same, 8 oz. to the gallon of water, thickened to warmth and air to the fullest extent, and increas- errors of beginners are almost as in-

the consistency of cream with sifted loam. On ing the size and the quality of the fruit. Trees numerable as the possibilities of error, but
the other hand, vines which have not been on the Quince stock soon become one mass of tnero are a certain number of errors which they
infested may be passed over with a good wash- spurs, and unless annual attention is paid to this are peculiarly liable to fall into, and which pre-
ing, as nothing is gained by dressing where there operation, the fruit on many of the kinds becomes ven * ir° m getting on the straight rop,d to

is nothing for the dressing to destroy. Of all small and gritty ; further, the root run being 8Ucce8S at outset,
the insect a with which the Grape grower has to limited, mulching with good rotten manure is _ Soil

contend, the mealy bug is most to be dreaded, an important factor in the production of fine Beginners are apt to imagine that earth is
as it too often springs into life year after year fruit; but as this annual dressing would soon earth, or “garden mould,” as they call it, and
where tho most careful attention has been raise the borders inconveniently high, the diffi- there is an end of the matter. Now, the
devoted to its destruction. Spirits and oils of culty may bo got overby casting the old mulch- character and state of the soil have more to do
various kinds have been used, and all of them ing over the border to be forked in for vege- with the health of the plants than almost any-
kill where they touch, but it generally happens table crops and by replacing it with fresh from thing. From the earth they extract a great
that some escape, and the only way in which the frame ground. The best time to do this is part of their food, and on the suitability of that
they can be successfully exterminated is by early in autumn, and, if within reach, the re- food depends in a great measure their health,
careful watching and searching in the spring, mains of an old Melon bed, soil included, will The best soil for a garden is a fine loam, which
when every bug may be destroyed as it emerges be found a suitable material for the purpose, feels soft and silky when rubbed between finger
from its winter quarters by dressing the place Get Raspberries staked and tied ready for and thumb, and which is yet light and has no
with Gishurst compound or methylated spirits mulching, but defer cutting off the tops until tendency to run together and form a clay,
of wine. the buds begin to swell in the spring. Untie That, however, is a soil we often read about, but

Late vines.— If the laterals and extension Figs, rub off the half-swelled fruit, and tie the very seldom sec. The next best soil is a heavier
growths have not been removed, take them off shoots together in bundles. Have protecting loam, which is kept free and open through
at once, as they hold moisture and keep the sap material ready, but do not apply it during the containing a considerable admixture of sand,
in motion. Remove the ripe foliage as it parts continuance of mild weather. Clay can be transformed into good garden soil—

freely to the touch, but not before, as many late it is fine and close in texture, retains moisture,

vines often carry their foliage well into Decern- Vegetables. and contains au enormous store, of vegetable

ber. In damp or foggy weather keep the front Globe Artichokes.— These should now be food—but so long as it remains clay the tender

ventilators closed, and give a chink of air at the protected ; if, after the heads were used, tho old roofc8 of P lants cannot penetrate it, and can
apex with just sufficient tire heat to expel stems were cut away, the young growth at the mftke no use of the food it contains, consequently
moisture. On bright dry days create a circula- bottom will be in a robust state, capable of it remains barren until it is thoroughly broken
tion of air by opening the top and bottom ven- enduring even the most severe winter with a U P and rendered friable, light, and easily
tilatora for a few hours, warm the pipes to set litt j e protection. The best material is about worked. Sands vary very much. Sand mainly
it in motion, and shut up in time to prevent the j f oot 0 f dry litter placed lightly round the composed of flint is barren ; sand composed of
temperature from descending below 45 degs. young shoots, but not over them, leaving the decomposed primitive rocks, such as granite,
after the heat is tnrned off. Get all external largest leaves just above the litter; round this grauwacke, mica-chist, &c., is more or less
borders well covered with Fern or litter, and pi ace 9 inches of soil two-thirds as hieffi up as f erfc M®» while calcareous or limy sands retain
place lights orshutters over all where the Grapes the litter, in the form of a slight Celery ridge, nioisture, and can easily be rendered fertile,
are intended to hang until after Christmas, but not drawn up so close. Where the rows are The worst feature of sands for gardens is that
From this time forward the bunches must be near together it will be necessary to bring the tk e moisture rapidly drains through them,
looked over twice a week. 80 il f rom elsewhere. In this case coal ashes, if carrying the fertilising matters of manures with

Orchard houses.— The time has arrived for a t hand, *ill answer the purpose in every way. and rendering the soil what gardeners call
getting all pot trees standing out-doors well Early Peas — Those who reside in districts “ hungry stuff. ”

plunged to protect the pots from injury by the where severe and protracted frost is not usual, Theae remarks refer to virgin soils which
expansion of the soil during frosty weather. an d where, in addition, the soil is of a light have never been cultivated. On the top of most
When thus taken care of, the general stock may nature, may now sow a few early Peas for the there is a layer of black mould—the product of
remain out in the open air until the middle or chance of having some a little more forward in decayed vegetation and worm casts. This is
end of January, when they will be the better tho season than by later sowing. Choose a fcfa e true rooting medium for plants, and should
under glass. Meantime steps must be taken for situation sheltered from the north and east alwa y 8 he present where a good garden is
cleansing, painting, and preparing tho interior winds, with the ground, if possible, sloping to f° rmed - It is sure to exist where the land is old
of the house, particularly where it is or has been the south. Dig it well, and mark out the rows paeture, but where the land is cropped it is not
used for soft-wooded plants like Chrysanthe- 4 f ee t apar t; in opening the ground for sowing Present so visibly, as it is mixed by cultivation,
mums, which sometimes leave an unwelcome do not go above 2 inches in depth, for if the and mucb less °* ifc is formed through the
legacy behind them. The general pruning having p eag are put i n deep at this season they are vegetable products being always removed. For
been performed early in the autumn, shortening liable to rot. Sow considerably thicker than J? arde ns old pasture land is best, next plough
back and washing will, as a matter of course, would be required in spring to make up for such land » and market garden ground third. Now
be deferred until the time arrives for housing, aa raa y not vegetate, or that suffer from the comes a difficulty. The occupiers of small villa
but on no account allow the last-named operation attacks of slugs ; cover with the soil in the usual residences rarely get any of these soils in the
to be neglected, as the work is quickly performed W ay, and over the top put a couple of inches of neighbourhood of London. When a piece of
and careful washing with strong soap water is fi ne coal ashes. This will not only act as a pro- g round ia lftid out for building the good soil is
quite as beneficial to young wood, be it ever so tection from frost, but also prevent slugs from U8Uall y carted away and sold, leaving nothing
free from insects, as sponging is to plant penetrating the ground and devouring the young but the raw subsoil, if on clay. Where the soil
foliage. A few words may be said with regard 8pro uts as they are pushing up through the soil is more free and workable it ifl made into bricks,
to shortening back, as serious mistakes are On ground that is much infested with slugs and where the subsoil is gravel some depth of it
sometimes made by cutting the dormant trees there is great difficulty in keeping these early- is generally dug out and sold, and road scrapings,

into shape, when shy kinds like the Noblesse 80W n Peas from being eaten, and if, in addition sho P sweepings, and every kind of rubbish sub-

Peach, which only make terminal wood buds, the soil is of a wet retentive nature it is better atituted * The beds and border of a garden
lose some of their most promising shoots by to defer sowing until January. should always be 2 feet deep, and better if

their removal. Practical men who know that it 3 feet. The plants in shallow beds are

is always safe to prune to a triple bud can make burned up with the heat and drought, require

no mistake ; but the amateur, whose great de- Fuchsia (Earl of Beaconsfleld)._It is more attent i° n aa regards watering, and neither

light is centered in the performance of his own certainly surprising to what size flowers of this P 1 ™* 110 ® 8UC b g° od blooms nor so many of them

knife work, will do well to wait until the buds magnificent Fuchsia can, by liberal treatment, aa P lants that root deeply.

begin to swell, or if he leave it until the fruit is be produced. I have one now twelve months Manure.

ist no harm will be done. old which has during this summer borne Manure is always a difficulty with beginners.

Hardy fruit. In a. preceding calendar at- blooms 5 £ and even over 5 i£ inches in length, No man will ever make a successful gardener

tention was drawn to the importance of getting measuring from the top of the seed pod only, who is afraid of nasty smells, or of soiling his

fche pruning and nailing of fruit trees pushed The plant was about five months old when, in hands, or of scrunching an obnoxious grub
forward during the prevalence of mild weather, April, it burst into bud, and I commenced to between finger and thumb. Kid glove gardening
M, independently of the fact that the work can feed ifc regularly with manure water about three is sure to be a failure. No artificial manure
* done better, the ground will be clear of refuse times per week. It is the easiest thing in the can take the place of that from the stable

lid ready for the reception of manure when world, as amateurs know to their cost, to over- and cow-shed, and in every garden where

rather suitable for wheeling sets in. If not feed the subject, but I w’as rather anxious to see it i3 wished to grow anything successfully

ready done, now is a good time to unnail all what amount of strong drink this and some a space should be screened off at the

ie Cherries preparatory to pruning and washing other Fuchsias would take, and I found that end farthest from tho house for manure heaps,
ith a strong solution of Gishurst compound or while Beaconsfleld flourished, several others frames, and hotbeds, heaps of decaying leaves,
ry other insecticide most in favour. When dry were either killed right off, or had their con charred trimmings, and seed-boxes. Artificial
; * the shoots together in small bundles, secure stifcutions very seriously impaired. An Earl of manures are useful helps, both as foods and

' ism to stakes and wash the walls ; if old, and Beaconsfleld eighteen months old was in July stimulants, but they do not warm and ventilate

(II of nail holes, w'lfch strong brine lime water, literally covered with magnificent flowers, the soil as decaying manures do, and they are
c r the compositions recom/heffded. in a There were more than two hundred blooms then utterly useless for a very large number of plants

calendar for hardy fruits. >Y |ey lablqjlr] upon the plant.—C. E. P. which requirje^Jepif-mpuld, for which the only

458

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 22 , 1884.

substitute is stable manure rotted to powder or
from a spent hotbed. Dry earth is a perfect
disinfectant, so that there can be no excuse for
the absence from a garden of the indispensable
manure heap, except the foolish determination
to court failure by attempting the impossible.

Purchase of Plants.

Errors in the purchase of plants are a most
fertile source of failure in small gardens.
Beginners, as a rule, are niggardly in their ex¬
penditure, and wasteful through their niggardli¬
ness. They buy single plants, and cheap things
offered for sale at small shops, and often expend
in that way more money than would stock their
gardens with good things from a first-class
nursery. A beginner should begin with a strict
rule never to purchase as plants what he can
raise from seed. Wallflowers, Stocks, Sweet
Williams, Asters, Canterbury Bells, Phlox
Drummondii, Indian and Japanese Pinks,
Zinnias, Antirrhinums, and all hardy annuals
should be raised from seed. No plant should
be purchased for open ground decoration which
requires to be protected in heat, or under glass,
in winter. That is always utter waste of money ;
the cost of protecting such plants during winter
would fill the space they occupy in the garden
twice over with far more beautiful things.

A very common error is purchasing plants in
flower. This should never be done. All plants
should be purchased in their dormant season ;
they then sustain the least possible injury from
removal. Beginners should know that only a
very few nurseries keep complete stocks of good
hardy plants, and only from these can most of
the plants described from time to time in
Gardening be obtained. A few stock things
used for forcing are all that can be obtained at first
hand from small tradesmen—clumps of Lily of
the Valley, Spinea japonica and Spira'a palmata,
Hepatica, common free-flowering Pinks, Daisies,
and one or two popular things which are easily
propagated in quantity from cuttings, are about
the usual stock. Show Pinks and Carnations,
the best named Phloxes, Pentstemons, show
Pansies, named Delphiniums and Antirrhi¬
nums, Pyrethrums, choice Auriculas and
Primulas, Pceonies, hardy Lilies, true Irises,
and all the multitude of hardy herbaceous
plants, are only kept in stock at the best
hardy plant nurseries, and it is useless to ask
for them elsewhere. Fuchsias and Geraniums will
quickly run up to two or three pounds even in a
small garden. If the same sum was invested in a
small order for choice hardy plants a fair be¬
ginning would be made, and the same principle
should be followed with bulbs and seeds. Never
purchase things in driblets, but save the money
and give a good order at one time to a first-class
firm. An excellent plan would be for several
friends or neighbours to give a joint order.

Another advantage in dealing with tradesmen
who have a reputation to lose is that you get
what you order. As an instance of this kind of
thing, I tried several times to get the Lobbianum
Tropreolums from small tradesmen, but each
time received the common Nasturtium, until I
ordered all my seeds at once from one firm of
repute. Do not be put off with the excuse that
anything is “not in the trade,” er that the
tradesman “never heard of it,” or that it is
“ not worth growing.” The notices of plants in
Gardening can be thoroughly relied on, and all
the plants described can be had from the best
nurseries, except a few things of which speci¬
mens only exist in private gardens. It is a
tradesman’s business to supply public wants as
they arise, and it is not his business to attempt
to rule or curtail the public requirements to suit
himself. A beginner may do very well for a
year or two with bulbs and seeds. Even of
florists’ flowers good seeds may be had which
will produce good decorative plants, in many
cases more useful for garden purposes than Bhow
flowers. It is a great mistake for beginners to
think about show flowers at all; they Bhould
wait until they can cultivate a good garden pro¬
perly, and then put a finish on their skill by
producing show flowers, which will by that
time have become easy.

Bulrf,

Bulbs, with a few exceptions, are good plants
for beginners. Many of them are cheap, many
are not subject to insect or vermin attacks, and
their culture h easily understood. The princi¬
pal thing is suitable soil; a good stock of rotted
turf is invaluable |6r ^heir culture) -In towns,

qmz

where that cannot be had, a good heap of stable
or cow manure should be laid up to rot, and
mixed with short Grass mowings, light loam,
and sand. The soil for bulbs should be well
drained, but not such as dries up quickly. It
should not be coarse and lumpy in texture ; but
that refers equally to all good garden soil, which
should always feel smooth when passed between
finger and thumb. Bulbs, as a rule, do not like
fresh manure, neither do they do well with
artificial manures or stimulants. Many do well
in a sandy soil if it contains plenty of vegetable
fibre in a state of decay. The best bulbs for a
beginner’s garden are Tulips, Scillas, Crocuses,
Snowdrops, Narcissi, and English and Spanish
Irises, of hardy kinds; and Gladioli and
Tigridias, of bulbs requiring lifting or pro¬
tection. Of Tubers 1 am almost afraid to
recommend Anemones, and yet no plants are
more easily cultivated. In the wretched, im¬
poverished stuff which does duty for soil in most
suburban gardens their first year is almost
certain to be their last, but given a good friable
loam which will not dry up too quickly, plenti¬
fully enriched with leaf mould, or old hotbed
manure rotted to powder, and a top-dressing of
the same every autumn just as growth begins,
and no plants grown iD gardens will give a
richer return in quality and quantity of bloom
than the various kinds of tuberous-rooted
Anemones. Anemone fulgens is like a scarlet
Ox-eye Daisy. Its variety grteca is similar,
with broader petals. Anemone stellata is similar,
but of beautiful shades of crimson, rose, and
magenta, with a white ring in the centre.
Anemone coronaria, or the Poppy Anemone,
has large, cup-shaped flowers, generally with a
white central ring, and of all shades of
scarlet, crimson, purple, lilac, and purplish
blue. Other varieties have shaded flowers,
darkest in the centre, some being cream or buff-
coloured. Double Anemones are of the same
colours as the singles, and of various degrees of
doubleness. In some the outer row of petals
are the same shape as in the singles,
while in others the outer petals almost
suggest the broad-petalled A. fulgens. The
single kinds produce seed in plenty, which
should be sown, as soon as ripe, in the same soil
as is required for the mature tubers. Some of
the seedlings flower in the autumn after sowing,
and nearly all the following spring. It is
important that the seed be sown as soon as ripe.
It is light and woolly, like carrot seed, and
should be separated by being rubbed lightly in
the hand with sharp, dry sand. Anemones
must not be allowed to become dry until the
leaves wither naturally. The tubers do not like
disturbance, and a good way with them is to
remove an inch or more of the soil annually,
when the leaves have quite died down, and
replace it with fresh compost. One great
advantage Anemones have is their hardiness and
habit of flowering through mild winters and
early in spring, so that with purple Pansies,
Winter Aconites, Christmas Roses, Crocuses,
Snowdrops, Tulips, Narcissi, Oriental Poppies,
Grape Hyacinths, Primroses, Polyanthuses, and
Pansies we can have beds and borders as gay
and as rich in colour as when filled with bedding
plants in the middle of summer. Next to
Anemones, Tulips are the most important for
spring flowering. They spring mostly from
three wild Tulips. Tulipa suaveolens and Tulipa
sylvestris are the parents of most of the early
kinds. These are natives of temperate
climates. The May-flowering or florists’ Tulips
spring from Gesner’s Tulip, a native of Asia
Minor, but quite hardy in this country. The
Parrot Tulips seem to spring from another
species. Their petals are cut at the edges like
vine leaves ; they fill the gap between the early
and late kinds. Tulips require the same soil as
Anemones, but the early kinds do well in rotted
turf and sand, if the turfy loam is not sandy. I
find the early kinds do well if a turf is placed in
the soil about 6 inches deep, with the Grass
lowest, the bulbs being set on it in a little sandy
loam, and then covered with turfy loam. The
late Tulips require richer cultivation. Tulips
always show when they are properly cultivated.
If starved for food or moisture the bulbs become
smaller, or split up into offsets. When properly
grown they only produce small offsets, and a
fresh flowering bulb is produced every year.
Tulips are best lifted annually when the leaves
die down, carefully dried, and replanted in
1 October. This enables them to be used ex¬

tensively, as the early kinds can be lifted in
time to be succeeded by summer flowering
plants, and the later kinds can be followed by
tender plants out of pots.

Scillas are useful bulbs of easy culture. S.
sibirica, S. amnma, and S. bifolia are all as
easy to cultivate as Snowdrops, and produce
spikes of blue stars early in spring. Scilla peru¬
viana is a pretty summer flowering kind, with
clusters of deep purplish blue flowers ; it looks
best in clumps of a dozen bulbs amongst very
dwarf plants. Crocuses are of the easiest pos¬
sible cultivation, they require a light nourish¬
ing soil. The common yellow kind flowers for
a longer period if lifted and dried annually, but
the white, blue, and purple kind are best left
in the ground uqtil they become too crowded.
Snowdrops are good plants for any position.

The large flowered kinds, Imperati and Elwesii,
are much finer than the common sort. Many
of the Narcissi are of the easiest possible culture ;
they like a damper and richer soil than most
bulbs, with the exception of the Algerian kinds,
which are not beginners’ plants. The poeticus
varieties, popularly known as Narcissus, the
Polyanthus kinds, and the Jonquils, like a
lighter and warmer, but not a poorer soil.
Polyanthus Narcissi do very well in open beds
in a light rich compost.

English and Spanish Iris do well in the same
soil as Anemones, and have a good effect when
planted in large clumps ; they should not be
moved until the clumps become crowded. New
bulbs are formed each year a little below the old
ones, so that they should not be planted too
deeply in the first instance. Tigridias require
a rich loam and good cultivation, the bulbe
should be planted in March 6 or 7 inches deep in
clumps of a dozen. They must not be allowed
to want for water. The blooms are 7 inches
across, brilliant scarlet in T. Pavonia, and
yellow in T. conchiflora. After first planting
they are better left in the ground, the withered
stems being cut down in autumn, and a good
top-dressing of rich soil being added at the same
time ; a little heap of dry coal ashes will pro¬
tect the roots during severe frost. Gladioli are [
the best summer flowering bulbs for beginners.
Showy seedlings are cheap, and the management
is simple. A good rich soil is necessary, and if
new so much the better. The soil must be well
cultivated and well manured, and they will take
considerable quantities of water and liquid
manure while growing fast. The bulbs will
not stand frost, and so require to be lifted like
Dahlias, and stored safe from frost; but many
kinds multiply freely by offsets, and when bulbs
are plentiful it is worth while risking a few in
the open ground on the chance of a mild winter ;
these should be 9 inches deep and the w ithered
stems cut off close to the bulb, the soil being
made close and fine over the bulbs. Glass plant
protectors are now cheap, and it is really worth
while protecting a few clumps of Gladioli from
excessive wet in winter by that means. Gladioli
bulbs are corms, like Crocuses, and the new
bulb is formed on the top of the old one, so that
the bulbs come nearer the surface each year.

The early flowering Gladioli are quite as much
worth growing as the later kinds, the spikes are
more loose, and more useful for cutting. All
are useful, and make a succession from the
beginning of June until the gandavensis kinds *
come into flower.

There are many other good bulbs and tubers,
but those mentioned are cheap, and easily
grown. J. D.

(To be continued.)

Tree Carnations.— Very early in the new
year we get off all the small side growths which
we can get from the stems of these Carnations,
and insert them in 4 -inch or 5 -inch pots in
light soil, plunging the pots in a little
bottom heat in the forcing house where
the temperature is about 50 degs. The labels
in the different pots stand an inch or two higher
than the slips, and these support a square of
glass just sufficient to retain moisture about the
cuttings. Thus treated, they root rapidly.
Juliette and Mrs. Llewelyn are two grand
additions to the deep rose-coloured class, and
Nimrod and Worthington Smith are high up
in the list of scarlets. Queen, I think, is the
best of all the white varieties; and Gloire de
Nancy, though scarcely a perpetual, has fine
I large white flowery.— J L J 01 S AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

*

*

M

Nov. 22, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

45$'

A GARDEN IN WESTMORELAND.

Lovers of scenery are sometimes narrow-minded,
md we have even heard some sticklers for
“nature” object to Chatsworth and its
gardens as an offence against “ the Derbyshire
country.” Still, every visitor to the Lakes who
cares at all about the history of gardening
ought to make a point of seeing Levens. The
grey old mansion, with its tower and gables, its
simple green terrace and long flight of steps up
to the unornamented doorway, harmonises per¬
fectly with scenery—magnificent trees grouped
about a wild mountain stream, and every here
and there peeps of the background of fells—such
as is eeldon found except near the English lakes.
Plenty of culture, plenty of richness ; those
Limes and Sycamores, those avenues of Oak and
Beech, and those huge Pines and very tall Birch
trees, speak of solid peace ; while the brawling
Kent and the bare scour of Whitbarrow take us
back to the Moss-trooping dayB when, if safely
out of the way itself, Levens was often called on
to help less fortunate neighbours. The house,
with its mixture df comfort and strength, tells
the same tale as the grounds : You are on the

But there is a similar Samson and Hercules
| lireplace at South Wraxhall almost (like the
rest of the house) too far gone for preservation,
while Levens is kept up as such a place should be.

And the garden, with which we are chiefly
concerned, looks as if it was still under the care
of “M. Beaumont, Professor of the Topiary Art
to James II.,” who laid out Hampton Court
gardens. It is even better than Elvaston, as a
sample of what can be done with Yew and Box,
and Holly. Here near the house are pyramids
I with balls at top and ba&tionettes fashioned in
their angles, arbours impenetrable to sun or
rain or peering eyes, tall Mushrooms on slender
stalks, and other quaint devices. Use, too, is
mingled with “ornament;” all round the
frames and hotbeds is an embattled wall, just
so high that you cannot tell wbat it conceals,
and relieved with embrasures, &c. Among
these Yew and Box trees are flower beds of !
most intricate patterns with wonderfully neat
Box edgings. Behind, dividing the main
garden, is an alley of Beech, with arches every
i here and there, and a central circular space
| Beech-walled all round, which, if it had a few
statues and vases, would speak even more than

And Levens is easy to-get at; it is five short
miles from Kendal, down the Kent, which a
little below it broadens out into a sandy estuary.
You may walk to it in less than two miles,
either from Milnthorpe or Oxenholme Stations,
and in much less if you happen to strike the
“ bit of a back loan,” to which any passer-by
will direct you. Either walk is, like all the
walks thereabouts, lovely ; and whichever way
you choose you must remember also to see
Sizergh Castle, about a mile from Levels. Thia r
the old place of the Stricklands, is a sad co^tfasb
to the other, it is scarcely kept up at all, yet
historically and otherwise it is by far the more
interesting of the two. In its gardens are plenty
of Yews in a strangely intermediate state between
trimness and wildness; the topiarian has not been
there for years. But the terraces and moat gardens,
are thoroughly English. There are in the lake:
country plenty of grand “ places ” besides the:
well-known Muncaatcr Castle ; but Levens and.
Sizergh, though not at all grand “ places,” are:
both well worth seeing, just because they ar&
thoroughly characteristic. They can be seen,,
too, without interfering more than to the extent
of, say, three hours of the tourist’s programme.

VIEW OF A GARDEN IN WESTMORELAND.

edge of the Borderland, where every cultivator
had his “peel” and was often glad enough to
use it. Inside, the most noticeable feature is the
perfection of the * ‘ keeping up ; ” the rich Oak
panelling, the leather-work (on dining room as
well as bedroom walls), the tapestry, the plaster
ceilings—all are trim and in order. How few
1 old houses there are of which this can be said !

Look at South Wraxhall, by far the finest
1 manor-house near Batli ; there is a historic place
I once much grander in every way than Levens,
as hoe as Haddon, which it much resembles, and
1 (after having been everything—even a boarding
school 1) is empty, and fast falling to ruin. The
wood-carving at Levens is very good. The
principal fireplace, with its “five senses, four
seasons, and four elements,” and—

Samson supporting one side, os in rage ;

The other, Hercules, in like equipage,

probably suggested to Coleridge those lines in
“Christabel” about—

The chamber carved so curiously—

Carved with figures strange and sweet,

All made out of the carver’s brain ;

just as his walk on Duddou sands taught him (he
tells us) to say of the Ancient farmer— I
Thou arrt and lank,fend f ■% I

As s the ribbed aca-sand. V I U "V I k_

it does of Versailles and Watteau. As it is, you
look for the dent of high-heeled shoes in that
soft daisied turf, and for the rustling of hoops,
and the glory of plum-coloured coats and laced
waistcoats amid the tender green of the young
Beech leaves. It is all so exactly as it was,
that sitting in the rustic seat at the far end,
you almost think you hear whisperings round
the bowling-green, and a leafless bough does
duty for a dress-sword projecting between the
skirts of some periwigged beau.

It is not exactly the garden into which you
would summon a romantically-minded young
lady like Maud, though both the Yew arbours
and the high thick green-walled Beech offer
charming flirting nooks ; but it is as good a
sample as we know of what is wrongfully called
the Old French style, but which comes direct
from the Romans, Pliny for one giving elaborate
instructions as to how the topiarian is to im¬
prove on Nature.

Though a garden showing how not “ to do
it,” yet it harmonises with a particular kind of
house—better, however, even with the Caroline
style or the red brick of Anne than with grey
old Levens. Anyhow, it is worth seeing, especi¬
ally when it has such an interesting house, and
such a glorious park along with it.

Levens garden is something which few have seen
just because there are very few perfect example
of it remaining. F.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 446 .)

Something About Tools.

Carlyle, in his grimly-humorous way, says,
“ Man is a tool-using animal; without tools he
is nothing, with tools he is all. The earliest
dwellers upon the earth had their flint ball, with
a thong to it, such as no brute has, or can
have.” It has been said that “ a good workman
never finds fault with his tools;” but in
gardening, at any rate, a man cannot do as much
work with a bad tool as a good one. Take the
spade as a case in point. A man with a worn-out
spade may turn over as much surface, or even
more, than if he had a good serviceable tool; but
no one with any sense or knowledge would say
the worn-out tool did as much or as good work
as a good tool would do. And if the good work¬
man did not find fault with the tool, I think he
ought to, and as speedily is possible obtain a
better one. I marvel much that anyone should

UKdANm-LHAMKAIoN

460

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 22, 1884.

buy a soft clumsy spade such as are sold by
many country ironmongers, when a keen, bright,
handy cast-steel tool can be had for about a
shilling or so more. With the improved tool
the man might earn the extra cost of the spade
in a couple of days at least. If I had much
digging to do I would not use one of those soft
clumsy things for double wages. The spade is
a most important tool in the garden, and it is
very necessary in the interests of economy and
good cultivation that none but the best should
be employed. I have used Lyndon’s patent No. 2
spade for a good many years, and found it an ex¬
cellent tool, though I daresay many others are as
good. In my experience I have found as many
varieties of digging as there are spades. Some¬
times the digger contrives to turn up as little soil
with the new tool as he did with his old one,
simply by altering the angleof insertion. Itistrue
he has to stoop a little more, but in a long day’s
digging he does not turn over so much earth by
several tons ; and v besides, it demoralises the
man when he shirks his work. The blade of
the spade should be thrust into the ground with
the handle in a nearly vertical position, and the
earth which is brought up by the spade should
be turned completely over—that is, its position
should be completely reversed. In winter dig¬
ging, the surface of the soil should be left open
and rough for the frost and snow to penetrate,
but in spring and summer it should be well
broken up, to fit it for immediate cropping, as
spring or summer fallows are unknown in
gardens. The Bteel fork has, in some measure,
taken the place of the spade in spring and
summer work, as it leaves the land in better
condition for the atmosphere to act upon than
does the spade.

For winter trenching and digging the spade
is, of course, the best. As regards the best
season to dig most people are guided by their
experience, and are influenced by circumstances.
Heavy land may be manured and the digging
done in autumn or early in winter, and remain
rough till spring ; then, in March, when the
surface is dry, take the steel fork and turn it
all over, and there will shortly be a tilth fit to
sow the smallest seeds upon. Light land may be
turned over any time, but the manure should not
be placed on sandy land in autumn, as in con¬
sequence of its porous naturo the winter’s rain
will carry away a good deal of the strength.
One of the most useful tools to the gardener is
the hoe. There are many varieties, but for
surface stirring and killing weeds the Dutch hoe
is the best tool. For drawing drills and for
earthing up vegetables hoes of a different
character are used.

The Importance of Hoeing
In its ofleet upon culture and growth cannot be
overrated, but it is necessary that it should be
efficiently done. Some men permit the hoe to
glide over the surface without stirring up the
soil and disturbing the weeds sufficiently deep
to cut their roots and destroy them. Surface
stirring with the Dutch hoe once a week or even
once a fortnight in dry weather will do more
good than a dressing of manure. It checks
evaporation by keeping a thin stratum of loose
soil on the top through which the moisture in
the ground cannot pass. If the land is worked
to a suitable depth, and the hoe used often
enough, there will be no need for watering, but
all the soil must be stirred from 1 to 2 inches
deep. It is astonishing how very few men
really know how to hoe, or if they do know,
they shirk their work. In earthing up vege¬
tables, such as Potatoes, Cabbages, &c., a hoe
with a blade set at right angles, or nearly so,
with the handle is used. The blade of the hoe
is made of different sizes to suit the different
operations and operators, and in all cases a
clean, bright tool is handier and better
than a rusty one — hence the necessity
for cleaning each tool properly when put
away after using. The garden rake is gene¬
rally made of iron, but not always. Some
are altogether of wood—in fact, the ordi¬
nary hay-rake makes a very useful tool in an
active person’s hands in preparing land for seed¬
ing and such like work. I have seen useful
rakes for gravel roads and walks which had
iron teeth set in wooden heads. As a rule,
among amateurs, the rake is thought too much
of, and the hoe too little ; but the latter in
ordinary culture is far the best tool. The rake,
of course, is necessary for the proper prepara¬
tion of seed beds, .

Diqitm

m , l^fat In^ljie afjej |cul£i

iure of

the surface the less it is used the better, as
weeds should never be allowed to get so large as
to require removal. I have only briefly glanced
at a few of the indispensable tools necessary to a
garden of only moderate dimensions. There
are many others, such as shears of various kinds,
baskets, hammers, thermometers, wheelbarrows;
and whilst on the subject of wheelbarrows I
may mention a two-wheeled handcart, which is
very useful for the removal of Grass or rubbish,
and in the autumn when the leaves are fall¬
ing something larger than a wheelbarrow to
convey away the rubbish is required. This
hand-barrow, running on two broad wheels, is
very useful, superior to any of the large wheel¬
barrows commonly employed, because it can be
worked with more ease, and it is incumbent on
all of us not only to economise labour, but to
lighten it as much as possible. The dimensions
of the handcart lam alluding to arc as follows :
Length, 4 feet 6 inches ; width, 2 feet 6 inches;
and depth, 2 feet 3 inches. The body of the
vehicle is made of Elm, strong but light,
and the edges at the top are protected
with hoop iron. I have used a good
many kinds of mowing machines, but 1 still
retain. Green’s, though I have broke away
from it onoe or twice to try new inventions.
Boulton and Paul’s water barrels are very useful,
and are the lightest things of the kind known.
Tools require a tool-house to keep them in, and
a properly arranged set of pegs, &c.. to hang
each man’s tools up in an easily accessible place,
so that there should be no disturbance about one
man taking another’s tools in mistake. Very
often a j^ood deal of time is lost in hunting for
tools which have been mislaid, but if each person
employed is made responsible for his own tools,
and for their proper order and condition, it will
be an easy matter to have a well-regulated tool-
house.

The Preparation op Land.

The word “ preparation ” has a very wide mean-
ing, but the sense in which I am using it now is
to make ready, or, as we say in gardening, get
the land ready for the crop. Now, I suppose
gardeners, above and beyond all other men.
know the bearings of { he word ‘ ‘preparation ” upon
the result of their work. The grafting of the
wildling stock or the planting of the cutting is
but the beginning of the preparation of the
future crop in fact, it is not really the begin¬
ning, for neither of these operations can be
efficiently done without preparation; indeed,
the greatest and most important part of the
gardener’s work may be described under that
one word “ preparation.” In vegetable grow¬
ing the preparation of the land is most essential;
it is, in fact, the basis of the work. The trench-
ing.or digging in winter, the further stirring in
spring to pulverise the surface and fit it to
receive the seeds, are all works of a preparatory
character, which are exceedingly necessary if we
wish to obtain the best possible results. The
reason why one man’s crops fail and another’s
succeed may be summed up in that one magic
word. Land that is in good heart, that is well
manured and in good tilth, that is well culti¬
vated, may be safely reckoned upon doing its
duty to any crop for which it is suitable
Capital judiciously laid out upon the land, in
the form of labour or manure, or both, will prove
a good investment; but as much or more skill
and judgment are required to work the land
through its preparatory stages economically—
neither stinting its necessities, nor casting
away the chances of profit by lavish expendi¬
ture (for there are two sides to all questions,
two rocks on which our bark may split)—than
in following the career of the crop through its
further progress till the end comes. Surface
polish, the hoeing and keeping down of weeds,
is a good thing beneficial to the crops, but it is
not preparatory, neither can it in any sense
take its place. It is the deep stirring, the
thorough intermixing and the replenishing—
the giving back to the earth in the shape of
manure what the previous crops had taken awav
—which constitutes the real preparation Of
course, the forces of Nature, the frost, the wind,
the rain, and the sunshine, will all work for us
if we permit them, by opening the earth’s crust,
unlocking the door with the spade, and so make
a way for them to enter.

Rotation of Crops.

Everyone admits the necessity of this. The
foundation and the prosperity of all things are
built upon “ incessant change.” It is true there

are exceptions. Onions have been grown year
after year in the same ground without any per¬
ceptible deterioration. Potatoes, again, have
but little change in many gardens ; but neither
of these crops occupy tne ground for a longer
period than six months out of twelve, and during
the remainder of the year the land remains
idle, or is resting. We ought not, I take it, to
be content with only one crop per year, especially
when that crop only occupies it six months of the
time, so that if the land is to be cropped as well
as it ought to be there must be a rotation of
Borne kind. I do not think any hard and fast
line should be drawn with reference to this
matter, as, if the land is well cultivated and
well manured, the question of rotation may be
—not altogether ignored, but not quite so
strained in its bearings. With this proviso, by
way of detail, I have roughly drawn a short
list of simple rotations which may, I hope,
be useful. Late Potatoes are better grown
out in the open field, therefore I have made no
provision for them. First year, early Potatoes,
to be cleared off by middle of J uly, and then sow
part with Turnips, and plant part with winter
Greens. Second year, Onions, followed by
Coleworts. Third year, early Potatoes, followed
in August by winter Spinach and other autumn
crops, such as late Broccoli, &c. Fourth year,
late Peas and Celery ; the rows of Peas to be
15 feet apart, with three rows of Celery between
each two rows of Peas. Fifth year, early Pota¬
toes, followed by Brussels Sprouts, the latter to
be planted between the rows of Potatoes in
June, two rows of Potatoes between each two
rows of Sprouts. Sixth year.VegetableMarrows,
Turnips, Lettuce, &c. Seventh year, Carrots,
Parsnips, Beet, &c., followed by Cabbages, and
Brown Coe Lettuces, and Endive. I do not
known that I need carry them any further, as
it will be seen how wide is the choice as regards
garden culture ; and if land ever becomes sick
of any crop it must be through sheer bad
management.

Permanent Crops.

These are fewer in number than was formerly
the case. Seakale, for instance, may be treated
s an annual, as may also Horseradish, though,
as the latter is so difficult to get out of the land
when it once gets in, it is, perhaps, advisable to
keep it to one piece of land as long as success
follows. Many of the so-called permanent crops
are injured by being kept too long in one place,
notably Globe Artichokes and Rhubarb, as four
years is quite long enough for those things to
occupy the land, and a more frequent change will
oenetit other oropa by throwing more land into
the regular system of cropping. It is notorious
that in many gardens Raspberries and Straw¬
berries stand too long on the same spot. Herbs,
again, will be more profitable if renewed
annually. Take the case of Sage, which is in
constant demand. Often the plants stand to
get old, and then comes a cold winter and the
old plants die. If cuttings had been put in
during the previous spring the young plant
would have taken no injury. The same occurs
with Thyme, which should be propagated either
annually or biennially, the former for choice, as
should also Mint. Asparagus even is coming to
be regarded less as a fixture than formerly, for,
even allowing that Asparagus beds of the old
type will last fifty years, is it profitable to leave
them so long ? Would not younger plantations
be more profitable ? I think they would, but I
shall have more to say on this subject by-and-
bye. E. Hobday,

Pelargonium v. Geranium. — With
reference to a note by “A Reader” on Geranium
v. Pelargonium, in your issue of 1 st inst, I,
for one, would have been glad had he gone a
little further in his explanation and described in
what way a Stork’s-bill differs from a Crane’s-
bill, so that those who, like myself, are not pro¬
ficients to the required extent in zoology might
be enabled to distinguish between the two
genera. Being a lover of hedgerow and field
botany I have long had it on my miud to solve
this same point, and determine on the right
appellations of the several members of the
Geraniacea? I meet in my walks. Could not one
of your botanical correspondents treat us to an
occasional article on our indigenous species ? I
cannot but think such would De acceptable to a
large number of your readers of a scientific bias.
--Q. A- Newman.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Nov. 22, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

461

FRUIT.

APPLES FOR CIDER MAKING.

The abundant crops of Apples la9t season has,
coupled with the Apple Congress at Chiswick,
and the various exhibitions held in the country,
given rise to numerous suggestions as to the bett
varieties to grow, and the best means of disposing
of them profitably. One of the means of doing
so does not, however, seem to have been brought
forward as prominently as it deserves to be, and
that is making them into cider. In this county
(Hereford), no matter how heavy the crop,
growers are never at a loss how to dispose of it
profitably, and, considering that there are
twenty five thousand acres of orcharding in
Herefordshire alone, some idea may be formed
of the enormous quantity produced in a season
like the present. Fully 90 per cent, are cider
fruit, and plenty of that is none of the best
either, but no matter how bad it is a profit can
be made out of it at the very lowest price of cider
What I wish to point out is that however heavy
the crops may be, where there is a cider mill,
the fruit can be turned to good account after
picking out the best for cooking and dessert, so
that there is no danger of being over-stocked
with Apple trees where the soil is suitable for
them ; even growing bad varieties on unsuitable
soil in the very worse way, viz., leaving them to
take care of themselves, with the exception of
gathering the fruit and cutting the Mistletoe out
of them to sell for Christmas decorations, the
pruning which they receive often, depending
upon the state of the faggot-rick. Even, 1 say,
under such cultivation orchards are amongst the
best paying things on a farm. Allow me to
relate how an orchard that came under my
immediate notice pays. It is a small one, about
1^ acres in extent. Three seasons ago the
amount of cider made from about 500 bushels of
fruit which it produced was 25 hogsheads of 100
gallons each, which was sold in one lot for £50 ;
the cost of making was 5s. per hogshead, which
included shaking and gathering the fruit and
making it ready for sale. We only found the
man who undertook to make it a horse for
grinding. The orchard is planted thick and
fairly well sheltered. This shows how the
roughest method of cultivation and the crudest
way of converting the produce into cidersucceeds,
the varieties of Apples not being worth any
better method. Cider of the quality which this
orchard produces is generally worth from 4d. to
6 d. per gallon, and any description of fruit will
make it; but to produce cider of a superior
quality, worth from Is. to Is. 6d. per gallon,
very different methods must be adopted.

Soil. —In the first place it is necessary to have
the right kind of soil, which gives the cider that
rich flavour and delicious aroma and sweetness
that keeps improving with age. A strong deep
clay loam resting on the old red sandstone is
the most suitable soil on which to produce fruit
of the highest quality, and it is absolutely
necessary that it should be well drained. Bad
drainage is one of the most frequent causes of
canker, and also of various ether diseases;
shelter is also of the greatest importance, and to
obtain this a good plan is to let the hedges
grow up as high as possible, or to plant a belt
of quick growing trees thickly, such as Poplars,
Austrian Pines, or what is perhaps the best and
quickest growing tree for permanent shelter,
Thuja Lobbi. The expense of this is, however,
against it, but it is a first-rate Conifer. It grows
so dense and with us faster than any evergreen
tree. The ground should be thoroughly cleaned
and deeply cultivated. Then mark it out into
spaces 25 feet apart each way, a very fair dis¬
tance, or plant 15 feet apart, and eventually
thin out to .‘10 feet apart. An orchard thickly
planted does much better than one planted
thinly, the trees protect each other. Next dig
the holes ; then drive in a stout stake, leaving
about G feet out of the ground. Larch is the
best for the purpose, being very durable, and it
can be made more so by plunging it into quick¬
lime previous to using it; then plant the trees
to the stakes. The advantage of fixing the
stakes first is that there is no disturbance of the
roots and the tree can be fitted to the stake and
tied to it at once, even before the roots are
covered with soil which ensures it from being
planted too deeply.

Select Trees with clean, healthy, straight
stems and well-formed freatfo either ty r q or three

years from the graft. After planting cut any
broken or bruised shoots off, but no others, for
the less pruning they receive the better they
will grow, but in after years any cross or
misplaced branches should be removed. It is
customary in this part, though tho system is
fast dying out, to plant Crab stocks in the
permanent positions, and then graft them in two
years’ time—an extremely slow process, and one
of doubtful advantage, for they are grafted
from 5 feet to 6 feet from the ground, and if at
all neglected the grafts are often blown out.
Being grafted so high, too, is often the cause of
old trees spliting under the influence of the wind.
It is, therefore, much better to buy the trees,
for during the time the Crab stocks are growing
tho bought trees will be getting well furnished
with branches.

Varieties. —The names of a dozen good
cider Apples are as follows, viz., Red Foxwhelp,
Rejuvenated Foxwhelp, Cherry Norman, Red
Norman, Pyin Square, Sack Apple, Royal
Wilding, Devonshire Redstreak, Crimson Queen¬
ing, White Norman, Strawberry Norman, and
Kingston Black. These are good bearers, and
kinds that make first-rate cider. N.

12223.—Unfruitful Pear trees.—After following all
the instructions given in Gabdkninu, and still being un¬
successful, evidently the circumstances are beyond the skil 1
of the cultivator. Indeed, if the trees flower well and still
do not produce fruit it will be better to cut them down and
graft with such sorts as Louise Donne of Jersey and Bcurre
de Areiuberg.—J. D. E.

12237.—Fig trees on back walls —Fig trees will
succeed on the back wall of a vinery if they are not too
much shaded by the vines overhead. When the vine leaves
completely' cover the roof hardly anything will succeed on
the back wall. Camellias will do as well as anything and
the flowers of the old double white are valuable.—J. D. E.

ROSES.

GUMMING ROSES.

TO THE EDITOR OF “ GARDENING. ”

Sir, —In reply to the communication which you
have received from Mr. Johnson, hon. secretary
of the Leek Rose Society, we are requested by
the committee of the National Rose Society to
say that they, in their decision, expressed no
opinion whatever upon the practice of gumming
rose blooms, as they had no law to guide them
in the matter. After taking all the circum¬
stances of the particular case submitted to them
into consideration they came to the conclusion
that, as the exhibitor in question had infringed
no existing regulation of either society, the prize
could not be withheld from him. When the
new bye-laws and regulations, which the com¬
mittee have for some time past had under con¬
sideration, and which will be submitted to the
society at their next general meeting, are in
print, it will be seen that the committee of the
National Rose Society discountenance the
practice of tampering in any form or shape with
rose blooms intended for exhibition. At the
same time they wish it to be clearly understood
that, in their opinion, it is but very seldom
indeed that any such practices are resorted to
by exhibitors.—We are, sir, your obedient
servants, •

* H. Hontwood D Ombraik, \ Hon Secfl .

Edward Mawley, /

12217.—Tea Roses in pots.— As long as
a Tea Rose continues to make vigorous young
wood, so long will it produce flowers freely.
In the first place, the cultivator must be careful
to pot the plants well and in the right compost.
Good turfy medium loam two parts, and about
one part of light fibrous peat; add to this a
sprinkling of decayed stable manure, with some
sand, if necessary. There is no better compost
than this. As to the growth of the plants, the
best place for them is a light span-roofed house,
where they can be placed near the glass. The
leaves must be kept free from the least suspicion
of mildew, and no green fly must be allowed on
the young growths. Under such conditions the
plants will flower freely in a greenhouse with
a temperature from 45 degs. to 50 degs.—
J. D. E.

12222.—Roses for greenhouse.—The best Roses for
greenhouse wall are Marcchal Kiel, Madame Berard, Ches-
hunt Hybrid, and Climbing Captain Christy. Plant them
now, but see that they have a border of good rich soil at
least 2 feet deep to grow into.—J. D. E.

12219.—Rose trees.—They certainly bloom better the
second and third year after planting than they do the Arst;
by that time tho roots have taken firm possession of tho

ground. As a rule tho best Roses aro obtained the lirst
year from the bud. These, of course, can only be obtained
by getting stocks, planting them on good ground, and bud¬
ding the following season. The most manageable stock for
beginners is the seedling Brier.—J. D. E.

12234.—Rose cuttings.—If they are rooted the best
plan will now be to plant them out on a rich piece of ground
after the soil has been made tine. As there is no green¬
house the Geranium and Fuchsia cuttings may be allowed
to remain in the pots where they are until the spring. They
may be placed in a window where the frost canuot reach
them for the winter.—J. D. E.

HALF-HARDY GARDENING.

The cool greenhouse has but few hearty advo¬
cates, yet as good gardening makes progress,
so surely people who love flowers, though de¬
barred by circumstances from incurring great
expense in their cultivation, will find out
how much can be done with a very small amount
of artificial heating. It is now many years
since—making a virtue of necessity—that I
began to try what could be done with unheated
greenhouses. At first it was merely a tem¬
porary measure, while waiting until a con¬
venient season should come for fitting proper
heating appliances to certain small glasshouses
under my control. But so fair a measure of
success attended these early efforts to have
flowers all the year round with only just so
much heat as to exclude frost, and the advan¬
tages of the cool system of treatment were so
plain, that I have continued ou the same prin¬
ciple ever since, and have less and less inclina¬
tion as time goes on to make aDy change.
I therefore gladly take the opportunity afforded
by the inquiries of a “ Vicar’s Wife ” to
reassure all who are interested in the subject
that it is quite possible to have plants in bloom
under glass, and plenty of them at all seasons,
without the aid of an expensive heating appa¬
ratus. Looked at in the light of a different
system of culture, the cool greenhouse becomes
intelligible and its management more easy ; it is
better, therefore, to give it the distinct though
somewhat clumsy title of “Half-hardy Garden¬
ing.” This pre supposes shelter by its very
name, and includes within its range a host of
plants requiring open-air treatment iu summer,
with the protection of glass, either iu the form
of greenhouse, frame, or window, during the
rigour of our English winters. In distinction,
therefore, from houses adapted to the growth of
Orchids and other tropical plants, or even such
as by unseasonable heat are forced abnormally
into bloom, the structures suited to the culture
of half-hardy plants must be planned to admit
of the least instead of the greatest amount of
artificial warmth. Practically speaking, it is
better that the use of such heat-generating appli¬
ances should be attended with a certain amount
of difficulty, otherwise the temptation is seldom
resisted, especially by the inexperienced, of
keeping the temperature so high as to be posi¬
tively injurious to the plants. For the object
of heating the cool greenhouse at all is merely
to keep the thermometer from falling below 40
degs. during inclement weather, and to dissipate
damp, which, however, must be prevented as
much as possible by judicious ventilation, even
in winter.

The plants suitable for the cool green¬
house may be classified as follows :—1, Such as
bloom naturally in winter and very early spring ;
2, Such hardy plants as may by preparation
during summer be forwarded, not forced into
bloom by the protection of glass; 3, Such
summer bloomers as may be preserved during
their time of rest in any position whence frost
can be excluded ; 4, Half-hardy annuals and
biennials. Thus it will be seen at once that the
half-hardy gardener is far from having a limited
selection at his command. Besides these, a
number of plants have been proved to be
amenable to cool treatment which are or¬
dinarily grown in heat, thus opening a
most interesting field for experiment. A
notable instance of this kind has come
within my own experience during the past
summer, in the abundant flowering of a species
of /Eschynanthus in an unheated greenhouse ;
the mother plant, from which I was given a
rooted cutting two years ago, blooming regularly
in an ordinary window, but under the care of
a skilful gardener. The vigour of the dark
green foliage and the vivid scarlet orange of the
numerous umbels of this tropical Gesner-wort in
both cases, show that it will thrive in a much
lower liemperature thLn Is usually given to it,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

4<>2 GARDENING ILLUSTRATED Nov. 22, 1884.

and though it is very possible that its growth
may be less luxuriant under cooler conditions
than it would be in a hothouse, yet it is quite
handsome enough to attract immediate atten¬
tion and admiration from all who have seen it
in full beauty. Thus it is clear that we cannot
reasonably complain of a lack of suitable plants
for the cool greenhouse. The dull, fast-
shortening days of November invariably call
forth a repetition of the same questions as to
the best mode of heating small greenhouses. It
is not heat, however, so much as forethought
and preparation that is really wanted. It is
undoubtedly true that there is one month—and
only one—during which there is some difficulty
in keeping the cool greenhouse bright and
gay, and it is the most important, per¬
haps, of the whole year, being the season
between the 15th of December and the loth of
January, when flowers are more heartily wel¬
comed than at any other time. The half-hardy
gardener must be thoroughly on the alert
through the summer if he wishes to provide for
a show of bloom in his greenhouse at Christmas
and the New Year. It will not do to w'ake up
in November to find that the spring bulbs,
which should have been potted in August, have
not even been ordered; that plants which should
have been ripening their wood and setting their
bloom-buds out-of-doors are still standing neg¬
lected in some out-of-the-way corner, and others
which should have been taken up and cared for
weeks ago are still in the borders. Yet we are
all apt to be caught tripping in these respects,
and then very often the blame of our own short¬
comings is laid at the door of want of proper
heating appliances ; but in reality there is no
insurmountable difficulty to prevent a cool
reenhouse from being gay with mid-winter
owers. During the last weeks of the year
Chrysanthemums are invaluable, and with
ood management and choice of suitable late
owering lands, such as Hermione, Elaine,
and a few others, can well be carried into
Jauuary. Coronilla glauca is bright and cheer¬
ful, and blooms naturally during the winter,
with Laurustinus, fair and fresh under glass, for
its mate, and so do certain of the Christmas
Roses. Compactly-grown specimens of the new
hybrid sorts of Pernettya mucronata, well set
with berries of shades varying from deep
purple through crimson to white, may take the
place, if need be, of scarlet-fruited Solanums,
which are not always docile in the hands of the
amateur.

Schizostylis coccinea often lengthens out its
term of flowering into the new year, and helps
to light up the conservatory with its crimson
glow. The earliest bulbs, such as the Roman
and pa per-white Narcissi and the Roman
Hyacinth, should be in good bloom by Christmas,
with Van Thol Tulips to give richness of colour,
and Crocus Imperati and the drooping Star of
Bethlehem (Ornithogalum nutans) to give a
foretaste of spring. This is but a Bhort list of
well-known winter blooming plants, but every
gardener will be able to think of others which
need little more than the shelter of the glass to
bring them into early flower. Tide over this
one month—the crucial test of the half-hardy
gardener’s skill—and all trouble is past. With
lengthening days there is no lack either of
colour or sweetness, and he can hold his own
without difficulty.

But the vexed subject of heating must not be
slurred over, and on this point I can only give
my personal experience as that of an amateur
with a keen love of plants, leaving others to
judge for themselves, each under his peculiar
circumstances. According, then, to my judg¬
ment, expressed before in the pages of Garden¬
ing, any heating apparatus employed for the
purpose of merely keeping out frost and drying
the air of a cool greenhouse should be portable
and temporary. In half-hardy gardening such
heating is required, at most, for a few weeks
only during the depth of winter, therefore to
have even a small fixed boiler with so many feet
run of flow and return piping is sheer waste,

besides being exceedingly troublesometolightand

regulate. Probably we have not as yet reached
the perfection of such temporary heating; but
new and cheap stoves of all kinds are being in¬
vented and advertised every season, each°one
of which, doubtless, possesses its special advan¬
tage. The size of the building from which
frost is to be kept out must determine the power
of the apparatus toJ>e employed-. In my

Digitized by GOOgle

own small conservatory, in which a constant
succession of plants in bloom is kept up,
uothing has ever succeeded better than
Gillingham’s Heat Generator, which answers
all my requirements ; but there are two doors
opening into it from warm rooms where fires
are constantly burning for at least six months
of the year, which helps, in a measure, to main¬
tain a genial atmosphere, though not so greatly
as might be supposed. This little apparatus
has many advantages—it takes up little room,
it is not unsightly, it can be set to work in five
minutes, and when no longer wanted can be as
easily removed. I have recommended it to many
friends, some of whom approve of it, and others
do not, but I have myself seen no reason to re¬
verse my first opinion. In recent issues of
Gardening another, but somewhat similar,
apparatus under the same patent is advertised,
which may or may not be on an improved prin¬
ciple, and there are several others. In another
(working) greenhouse a slow combustion stove
has been employed for years. This is also re¬
movable, and is taken away during the summer
to make room, but it is not handy and portable
like that just mentioned. Though not especially
well adapted to its purpose, it keeps out frost
when required, which is the main point with all
such temporary appliances; for, after all, the
question of such moderate heating is not a hard
one to solve. Some contrivance of the kind is
necessary, for even the hardiest plant, espe¬
cially when in flower, is distressed during severe
weather, but the use of it should be discontinued
at the earliest moment.

With moderate heating, however, we must
make up our minds to moderate our wishes, and
to be half-hardy gardeners in very deed ; other¬
wise, disappointments must surely overtake us.
To try to bloom Gardenias or Poinsettias in a
cool greenhouse would be to court failure ; nor
is it possible to take plants from a heated house
and expect them to retain their beauty in an un¬
heated one, for they will speedily show signs of
drooping and damping off. Plants to succeed
well in a cool house must be grown after a hardy
manner, and, in fact, require open air treatment
to prepare them for it. It is just on this point
that so many fail. For the last few weeks my
conservatory has been, and still is, gay with
Scarborough and Guernsey Lilies and other
species of Nerine, Pelargoniums, Abutilons,
Heliotrope, Haunanthus, Begonias, Strepto-
carpus, and other flowering plants, with hardy
Palms and many species of Maiden-hair and
other Ferns. But all these have received special
treatment to fit them for their purpose, or they
would not be blooming as they are at this late
season with the mere shelter of the glass. The
Pelargoniums have been standing out-of-doors
and carefully disbudded and watered through¬
out the summer. The Htemanthuses have been
set on a warm shelf in the vinery in full sun.
TheGuernsey Lilies had their roots well roasted,
with scarcely any water, except just enough to
keep them from getting dust dry, until the
flower-spikes began to appear, when they got
their remove from the frame to the greenhouse,
and soot water in plenty to fit them in due time
for the conservatory. And so on with all the
rest. In like manner other plants are getting
ready to take the places of these as they go out
of bloom: Schizostylis coccinea, Crassula lactea,
Troprcolum tricolor, Sparmannia africana,
Coronillas, Lachenalias, Arums coming already
into flower, and many more.

It is most important for his true enjoyment
that the half-hardy gardener should have some
place, be it conservatory, glass-covered porch,
or even a stand in a bay window, in which to show
his plants when in bloom ; or if there be only
a single greenhouse, and no other convenient
place, one portion of the space may be devoted
to a group of those in their prime. Otherwise
it is next to impossible to have “ a show of
bloom” all the year round. Plants which are
subjected to cool treatment have, more than
others it may be, a shabby look during the
winter. This cannot be avoided altogether, and
need not be deplored. Forced plants have also
their shabby time, but the natural resting period
being. when bloom is somewhat Bcanty, the
shabbiness of half-hardy plants is more noticed.
Hence, very often, the outcry that there is no
show of bloom. We iniss, besides, in the half-
hardy greenhouse in mid-winter, the dazzling
scarlet of the Poinsettia and the Salvia, the rich
reds of Pelargoniums and Plumbago rosea, and

other full-toned colours. The tints of hardy
flowers at this season are, as a rule, paler, and
we have to rely chiefly upon early crimson
Rhododendrons and Azaleas, upon Tulips and
scarlet Anemones (which, however, are not very
manageable in pots), for deep, bright hues, though
there are plenty of white and primrose and

? olden yellow flowers, with many coloured
lyacinths later on, which can be pressed into
the service. The subject is but slightly touched
upon in these few remarks. Much more might
be done to make the cool greenhouse attractive
to those whom it expressly concerns, and much
more will be done. Meantime I can only wish
that all amateur gardeners may find as much
pleasure and interest as I have done during the
last dozen years in half-hardy gardening.

_lv. L. D.

INDOOR PLANTS.

Choice Bouvardias. —The comparatively
new double Bouvardia, President Garfield,
seems to me to be a most valuable acquisition to
this race of delicate and free-flowering plants.
On seeing a coloured plate of it in The Garden,
I remember being peculiarly impressed with
the beauty of this flower and resolving to obtain
a plant of it at an early day. This I succeeded
in doing some time since, after being repeatedly
assured by a leading florist here that the Presi¬
dent Garfield Bouvardia was a myth, and that
there w r as no such thing as a double pink
Bouvardia. He says he has frequently bought
plants so labelled, but in all cases the flowers
were white, or very nearly white. Whether
his plants were in reality only Alfred Neuner
or a sport from it, or the Garfield, I know not;
but that my collection now embraces a genuine
pink double Bouvardia is a fact of which I am
really very proud. Compared with The Garden
plate, my flowers are finer in every respect.
The colour is fully as deep, the florets much more
double, each one having twelve petals instead
of eight, as represented in the plate, and the
corymbs are larger, some having twenty-five
florets each. At present I have a small plant
of it with nine large corymba upon it and most
of them are already in bloom. Another pretty
feature of my flowers is that many, if not, in
fact, most of the petals have a fine delicate line
of light green running down the centre of each
little petal. This is very distinctly marked at
first, and gradually disappears after the floret
has been expanded two or three days. I think
it enhances the beauty of the flower materially.
I find also that this Bouvardia, in addition to
being a free bloomer, has the faculty of retain¬
ing its flowers for a long while after expansion,
and they remain comparatively fresh. I have
flowers now that have been fully expanded over
a week, and they are pretty yet. This is a
valuable feature which single Bouvardias do not
possess, and florists will not fail to appreciate
it. For cut flowers President Garfield Bou¬
vardia must surely prove an exquisite little
gem ; indeed, the only thing it lacks to make
it perfection is fragrance. But even without
that, no one who once gets it in his collection,
even though it be among his few plants in a
sunny window in winter, will ever care to be
without it. Alfred Neuner, the double white,
is, of course, almost equally valuable, though
not quite so new, and it should be grown as a
companion to the pink. Its habits are very
similar, it being also very floriferous and easily
grown. With a pretty warm atmosphere that is
not allowed to become too dry, and due vigilance
in looking after mealy bug, which is apt to
infest this genus of plants, I see no reason for
lack of success in growing Bouvardias. In
regard to propagation, I have no experience as
yet. Whether, as has been stated, slips from
side shoots have a tendency to produce a rever¬
sion to the single-flowering species or not is an
interesting question, which I shall be glad to de¬
cide for myself. The doubles being sports
originally, such erratic conduct would not be at
all inconsistent with natural laws, and they are
thus not at all amenable to rigid botanical rules.
But let us be satisfied if we can reproduce them
from strong leading shoots, the removal of
which is generally beneficial to the parent
plants.—H. H., Kingston, N. Y.

Propagating Chrysanthemums. —
These are by many propagated in spring, yet
there are great numbers who think the autumn-

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

|

i

0

4

<1

V

1

*

Not. 22, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

463

struck cuttings produce the bcBt flowers, and
autumn striking certainly possesses one advan¬
tage, and that is the cuttings are easily pro¬
tected in a frame, whereas large planted saved
until the spring would take up a good deal of
room during winter. Where autumn propaga¬
tion is practised, the cuttings should be put in
now, and for this purpose choose those stout
shoots that spring up around the base of large
plants. In the case of some varieties, an
immense number of young growths are formed,
and where that happens the weak ones should be
removed, leaving only a sufficient number from
which to propagate ; if this is not done, all of
them will become drawn and weak. In some
the Bhoota are but sparingly produced, but the
additional protection accorded to the plants
when in bloom cause them to break up from the
bottom. The soil for Chrysanthemum cuttings
should be of moderate lightness, and should
consist of about two-thirds loam and one-third
leaf-mould, with a fair proportion of sand, but
in this respect the Chrysanthemum is not very
particular, provided good open material is used.
The cutting pots should bo about inches or
3 inches in diameter, with 1 inch of crocks in
the bottom, and then filled to the rim moderately
firm with the soil just mentioned. The cuttings
should be about 3 inches in length. Remove
the bottom leaf, or two if necessary, for the
purpose of insertion, but, as many of the shoots
will be cut off below the soil in order to obtain
them of sufficient length, they will not require
the removal of any leaves. When prepared,
insert them singly in the centre of each pot, and
take care that they are made secure. Each
cutting should be correctly labelled, as by so
doing mistakes are avoided. They may then be
placed in a cold frame, or if put where there is
a slight amount of heat they will root quicker
without the danger of damping off, but very
little heat must be given, or they will grow' up
weakly, and as soon as rooted they should be
removed. If in a frame without heat, take
care that they are not far from the glass. A
good watering when put in will suffice for some
time, and when this is done leave off the lights,
if practicable, for a short time to dry up super¬
abundant moisture. The after treatment con¬
sists of removing decaying leaves, in giving
water w'hen required, and in taking off the lights
for an hour or so on a fine day if there be any
signs of damping. The summer-flowering
varieties, now much more grown than formerly,
may also be put in at the present time, but as
their shoots are weak compared with those of
the others, it is unnecessary to put them in
single pots ; about a dozen in a 5-inch pot will
be found to be best, and when rooted they may
be potted off and grown on as the other kinds.
As, however, they belong mainly to the small-
flowered class, unless needod for something
special, 6 -inch pots will be large enough for
them.

Eucharis amazonioa planted out.—
This Eucharis is generally grown in pot 3 , but
anyone having room will find that it does far
better planted out, especially if it can be accom¬
modated with a bed under which there is a tank
or pipes to afford bottom heat. In that case the
bulbs make plenty of root and large leaves,
which lead to an abundance of bloom. Tan or
other fermenting material would do just as well
as the hot water, or perhaps better, provided
the plants have free drainage. We put half-
rotten leaf-soil under them, and on that a little
finer material and a quantity of sharp sand.
Since we began to use this they are much more
vigorous than I ever had them before, and are
just now sending up a great number of flower-
spikes that will give us something to cut at for
a long time to come. We have ours in a
Cucumber house in a bed 2 feet G inches or so
wide, and they are planted in two rows at about
the same distance apart. If allowed to remain,
as I hope to be able to do, they will soon get
together, as they are spreading fast, and no
doubt the next crop of bloom will be even more
abundant than this. As soon as the present one
is over we shall keep them dry so as to rest
them a little, and then give them a good soak¬
ing with warm water to start them again into
growth.—S. D.

G-revillea Preissi.— During autumn and
winter we are frequently reminded of the
beauty of this Grevillea, which, despite its
merits as a flowering jflant, is but lifftle met

Digitized by CjOO<^lC

w’ith. It is a free-growing, much-branched
shrub, with light green divided leaves, some¬
what liko those of the Southernwood. Its
flowers, which are borne in dense clusters on
the points of the shoots, are of that peculiarly-
curved character common to all the Grevilleas,
and pink in colour with a prominent style,
which, being of a deeper hue, forms an attrac¬
tive feature. This Grevillea is a greenhouse
plant of easy culture, growing well in a mixture
of sandy peat and loam, and rarely troubled
with insect pests. It may be kept out-of-doors
in summer in common with many other New'
Holland and Cape shrubs. This Grevillea is
also known as G. Thelemanniana. Cuttings
made of half-ripened shoots strike without
difficulty if treated as Heaths, and similar sub¬
jects usually arc inserted in well-drained pots
of sandy peat, and covered with a bell-glass
till rooted. But little if any more heat must be
given them than that in which they have been
grown, otherwise they will damp off.—H. P.

Show Auriculas. —It is most interesting,
even at this season, to spend an hour amongst
Auriculas; scores of them are in flower ; but
we are so anxious to get all we can in good form
at exhibition time that autumn bloom is not
looked upon with favour. I visited a friend
some time ago, who has commenced to grow rock
garden plants, of which he has a fine collection.
VVe minutely examined every interesting and
rare plant; even those not in flower did not pass
without comment; this one was remarkable for
its finely divided leaves ; another for its pretty
white or frosted foliage ; others, like Sibthorpia
europiea or Thymus rotundifloria, for the way in
which they clung to the rock with their tracery
of tiny leaves. So with our Auriculas; they
are not only interesting but beautiful, even in
their winter dress. The outer leaves are now
going through a process of rapid decay, and
must be removed, or injury will be the result.
Seedlings are even more interesting than named
varieties ; they give us so much more variety in
form of leaf, and also in the way in which the
farina is dusted over them. Some of the leaves
are as white as snow. No one can fail to
admire the spotless purity of Sapphire
(Horner); its foliage is so pure and so white,
while its trusses of bluish flowers serve to en¬
hance its beauty. It quite spoils these beau¬
tiful foliaged Auriculas to plant them out-of-
doors ; moreover, they are too valuable to be
trusted outside in our uncertain climate. Many
admire them so much that they have built
houses specially for their culture. Mr. Turner,
of Slough, has a house, SO feet long, filled with
flowering plants for trade purposes. Alpine
Auriculas have no farina or powder on leaf or
flower ; therefore they are better adapted for
planting out-of-doors, but they do not like too
much sunshine. A position shaded from the
sun from eleven until three in the afternoon
suits them best; they do not, however, refuse
to give satisfaction in more exposed places if
the soil in which they are growing is in any
way good and they do not suffer from want of
water.—J. D.

Imported bulbs of Lilium auratum.
—Nurserymen are already offering fresh im¬
portations of this Lily, but, according to my
experience as regards the behaviour of freshly-
imported bulbs, there is no need for hurry in
purchasing a stock. I find that nothing is
gained by getting them planted before March.
They appear to me to start into growth much
better when the natural temperature rises than
they do if dormant in a low temperature for
any length of time, and I believe that they are
better kept dry than rooted early in cold soil.
In many cases it would be an easy matter to give
them suitably warm quarters, but nothing would
be gained by that in the end, even if the bulbs did
not suffer from it. I never purchase our stock of
fresh bulbs until March, and then as soon as they
come to hand they are laid in a shallow box with
a layer of Cocoa-nut fibre beneath them, and
about half the depth of the bulb is also covered
with the same material. The box is then placed
on a side shelf in a cool plant house. The Cocoa-
nut fibre is made just moist, and then the box is
covered with slates to keep the bulbs in dark¬
ness. I take off the slates and examine them
once a week, and if the fibre gets too dry it is
given a little water. The bulbs seem to extract
sufficient moisture from the fibre, for in three
or four weeks they plump up and look quite

fresh. I then begin to look out for the forma¬
tion of roots ; each bulb is lifted separately from
its bed ; those that have begun to make new
roots are set aside to be potted, and the others
are returned to the box to wait until they show
signs of making roots. I am of opinion that
more bulbs are weakened, if not lost, through
boing potted too early in a cold, damp soil, than
from any other cause. We pot our bulbs in
7 -inch pots, giving them moderate drainage and
the be3t of soil which the place affords ; it con¬
sists of three-parts turfy loam and one of well-
rotted manure ; a fair proportion of sand is also
added. The plants are then taken to an
unheated Peach house, where they remain until
they come into flower.—J. C. C.

Potting up Narcissi for indoor deco¬
ration.— I am one of those busy people who
are always on the outlook for the easiest and
surest road to success, c.g., from the advent of
the paper-white Narcissus for months to come,
ending about July with the double form of
N. poeticus, no greenhouse, nor even a window,
should be without the choicer kinds. Some
catalogues contain upwards of a hundred varie¬
ties, but there are many, to the ordinary
observer, duplicates. I potted my imported ones
in October, but I found last year both the orange
and silvery Phoenix among the doubles, and, I
may add, the beautiful pure white scented N.
odoratus fl.-pl., and such fine trumpet-shaped
singles as Horsfield’s and the Musk-Bcented did
well lifted any time in December or January,
carefully potted, and the smaller bulbs returned
to the ground to mature and ripen for another
year. I am at present doing this, and I
commend the practice to those who have not
tried it.—W. J. M.

Double white Azaleas.— Of these we
grow three varieties, all distinct, and all well
worth culture. By far the best of the three is
Deutsche Perlo, exhibited in the spring of the
present year at South Kensington, where it
received the highest award given by the floral
committee to new flowers. I had two plants of
it, which flowered freely, and the flowers lasted
long on the plants in good condition. We found
them very useful, too, for all sorts of bouquets.
I have little doubt that this pure white Azalea
will be grown largely for furnishing cut blooms
for market, as it is good in habit and very free
blooming. A. Borsig is also a very desirable
variety, distinct in flower and foliage from all
others. Flag of Truce has very large and
beautiful double white flowers, which place
it in the front rank as a decorative plant ; and
Fielder’s White, though single, is not to be
despised. It is a useful early-flowering white
Azalea, forces well, and is very hardy.—J.

1217S. —Camellias. — The wetting over¬
head of Camellias has to be regulated by the
state of the weather. If the atmosphere were
always moisture-laden there would be no need
for syringing; it is only when Nature fails In
maintaining the correct balance in this respoct
that we resort to the syringe. From now until
the middle of March it would do more harm
than good to wet any cool-house plant overhead ;
but in spring when the days are warm a gentle
sprinkling will be beneficial. During the grow¬
ing time when the weather is hot and dry
Camellias should be well syringed both morning
and evening. If the plants are badly infested
with scale syringe them well with soft soap
diluted in warm water at the rate of 3 oz. to
the gallon. Get it well on to the under surfaoes
of the foliage, as it is there this insect finds the
food most to its liking. Allow the soft soap to
remain on for two or three days and then care¬
fully wash the whole of the leaves and wood
with clean water, and it will be found that the
hold of the scale is so relaxed as to allow of its
being detached with great ease ; indeed, it
generally happens that the scale is killed and
the clean water is only needed to cleanse the
plants. After this there will be but little signs
of the pest, but a vigilant look-out must bo
maintained, and if any that come are at once
destroyed it will in the course of a season or
two be quite exterminated. With good culture
and attention in this way scale never becomee
formidable.—J. C. B.

12208. — Chrysanthemums deterio¬
rating. —As only one variety has deteriorated,
and that such a common kind as Elaine, )
w'ould be easy enough to obtain cuttings from a
true wtockr It fe" difficult to say what is the

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

464

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 22, 1884.

reason for each an exceptional occurrence, but
it is probably something over which the culti*
vator has no control. It is best to grow the
late-flowering kinds to flower late ; and, instead
of taking the first buds that form, allow a second
set of growths to start from where the first
buds would have formed. The plants must also
be kept very cool, in a house without artificial
heat, and where the air is admitted freely.—
J. D. E.

Heliotrope White Lady-Under glass this Helio¬
trope is sufficiently white to justify the n&mo, but planted
out the colour is washy and anything but whito. .Never¬
theless, it is a fairly good bedder. It is quite as vigorous
as such varieties os Mias Nightingale, and flowers as freely,
producing large heads of blossoms that are delightfully
fragrant.—J. C. C.

Cyclamens in winter.— Many endeavour to forward
their Cyclamens by placing them in a close, warm house at
this time of year. This has the effect of causing them to
become drawn, and the blooms to be weak and devoid of
colour. They should never have more warmth than from
55 degs. to 60 degs. in the daytime, with a drop of from
6 degs. to 10 degs. at night, ventilating freely in mild
weather.—J. C. B.

12210 —Lilacs in pots.—The white Lilac flowers that
are to be had in abundance at Christmas are produced by
forcing the variety Charles X. in pots in a dark place, a
Mushioom house for instance. The flowers come of a lilac
colour if the plants are forced in the ordinary w'ay. They
are prepared in France and distributed by the English
nurserymen.—J. D. E.

12227.—Lilium auratum.—The treatment of the bulbs
from planting time until the shoots appear above ground
is to plunge the pots containing them in Cocoa-nut fibre
refuse, and the best place ter them is a cold frame. I
have plunged them out-of-doors, but many of the bulbs
are injured by the excessive wet when they are exposed to
all weathers.—J. D. E.

12151.— Pruning Oleanders.— Pruno them back the
beginning of March. As they break readily from the old
wood they may be cut to within 6 inches of the soil, but in
the case of old specimens it is advisable to leave from
1 foot to 18 inches of wood. After pruning, water carefully,
only giving enough water to keep the wood from shrivel¬
ling.—J. C. B.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

12*213.— Tortoise stove. —To keep your
stove (“ Tortoise ”) alive for ten or eleven hours
make it up thus : Let it be not quite half full of
coke, or coke and cinders, or cinders only, all
aglow. Then fill it quite up to the top of the
brick lining with cinders and the slack of coal
mixed ; spread it carefully over the top and shut
the damper quite close, as enough air enters
through the crevices to produce slow combustion
and keep the whole alive. I have a No. 1
“Tortoise,” and tty stoking it&alhave described
at 10 p.m. I find it still alive at nine next morning.
It answers admirably along with the vapouris¬
ing pan in keeping the plants healthy and
flourishing.— Neilson, Claujltion.

- There ought to be no difficulty in keeping

one of these going for ten hours without atten¬
tion. The chief points that require looking
after are the breaking of the fuel into small
pieces, and care in allowing neither too much
or too little draught; the proper amount must
be a matter of experiment, which the experience
of a night or two will easily settle. Generally,
an aperture at the lower sliding door } to | inch
will be found sufficient. The best fuel is
anthracite, which is not so liable to “hang ” in
the stove as coke, but the latter will answer
quite as well if properly broken up. Remember
that the smaller the stove the smaller should be
the fuel, and the shorter the time it will last
without replenishing.—K., Southend.

12162.— Plants for Australia. — This
matter is a very simple one. It is merely to
take them up, if not already up, and thoroughly
dry them, and then put them into paper bags
(».<?., the bulbous kinds,) with some cork saw¬
dust, and then pack them in a close dry box.
The Lilies should be put into a box with half
dry Moss. The Roses may have their roots
done up quite close in half-dry Moss and be tied
over quite close with Raffia, forming a good firm
ball. The Auriculas may be done up in half-
dry Moss and each plant tied over, forming a
close ball, and then the plants can be packed
close together in a small open hand-basket which
can be kept at hand on the voyage. Very little
or no water will be required for these through
the voyage, and none for the others.— Samuel
Wood.

12205.— Plants under trees.— Of plants
that bloom in autumn there are few that will
thrive under trees, but a good proportion of
spring flowering bulto would be at hdme there,

Digitized by L.O ‘gl£

especially Daffodils and Snowdrops. Then
there are Wood Anemones, and where the shade
is not too thick Lily ef the Valley will do well,
also Primroses and Polyanthus. One autumn
flowering hardy plant that would be at home
in the shade of trees is the Ivy-leaved Cycla¬
men (C. hedercefolium), which blooms all
through September and October, and the foliage
of which forms a carpet which remains fresh
and bright all through the winter, no matter
how hard the weather may be. The colours
of the flowers range from the purest white to a
tolerably bright pink, and as the plants when
thoroughly established bloom profusely, they
create quite a fine effect. I know of nothing
better than these hardy Cyclamens for carpet¬
ing the ground under deciduous trees, as the
leaves die off just as the foliage comes on the
trees, and appear again when the latter are
getting bare. The leaves are beautifully varie¬
gated, and so hardy that the most severe frosts
Fail to dim their beauty. Golden and silver
variegated Periwinkles also afford welcome
variety and colour through the winter. Where
the shade is not very dense the Laurustinus
would grow and bloom fairly well, but it re¬
quires a fair share of light to perfect the wood.
Being more tender than the generality of shrubs,
it does better where it gets some shelter from
east ai d north winds. Camellias are quite
hardy, and do well in the partial shade afforded
by deciduous trees.—J. C. B.

121 S3. —Marechal Niel Rose.— The plant
has made a remarkably fine growth, and
should flower well next spring. In about a
month’s time shorten each strong shoot back
to two-thirds of its length, cutting away all the
weakly growths, as they will not bear any
flower worth speaking of, and serve to obstruct
the fight. Each eye of the strong wood left
will produce flowers. The only secret in
growing this Rose well is to prune back hard
every year after blooming, cutting in the
Bhoots which have bloomed to about two eyes.
These must be encouraged to grow freely by
copious waterings in hot weather with occa¬
sional applications of liquid manure or a top-
dressing of Clay’s Fertiliser, which is one of
the best manures for Roses.—J. Cornhill,
Byfleet.

12185.— Arum Lily.— Your plants, which
you describe as having spotted leaves, is
probably Richardia alba maculata ; also a Nile
Lily, bearing similar flowers, but inferior by
far to those of the ordinary Arum Lily. It is,
however, a very pretty plant, and well worth
growing for the sake of its variegated foliage,
which, in combination with its free, graceful
growth, renders it very serviceable for room and
greenhouse decoration during the summer
months. When the foliage dies down let the
soil dry and remain thus until the latter end of
March ; then shake all the old mould away and
repot in a good compost. Several roots may be
put together in one pot, or they may be potted
separately. Water moderately until the pots
get fall of roots, and then freely, for this plant
is of an aquatic nature.—J. C. B.

12186.—Treatment of Deutzlas.— The
cause of the plants not blooming was the
pruning. Dentzias flower in spring on the wood
made the previous summer, and the wood
should, therefore, remain intact—that is to say,
from the end of the growing time. If grown
under glass in spring they should not go into
the open air until all danger of frost is over.
Most growers plant them out on a good piece of
ground in June, and pot them again early in
November. In this way they make a strong
growth and cause but little trouble. If kept in
pots they should be well watered in summer,
and should get frequent doses of liquid manure,
ft is also better to plunge the pots to their rims.
A sunny place should be chosen so that the wood
can ripen well. —J. C. B.

12225.— Heating apparatus. —Although the plan of
carrying an iron pipe from an oil stove may be successful
in getting rid of the fumes. I fear that a serious loss of heat
will be sustained ; however, the experiment is interesting,
and I hope the querist will state the result. I should like
to hint that a sharp look-out will have to be kept for down
draught, or there may be a disaster.—K„ Southend.

12192 —Dahlias from cuttings.— Cuttings taken In
the autumn will not root, it is only the young shoots that
come direct from the tuber in spring, and which are taken
off with a little bit of heel that strikes.—J. C. B.

12249.— Learning Latin — "H. G. B." would, of
course, find a knowledge of Latin very useful. He might
obtain “ Latin Without a Master,” but self-tuition will be
rather up-hill work unless he has plenty of perseverance.

No need whatever to learn English grammar before essay¬
ing Latin. A Latin-English dictionary will be necessary to
him, in fact, indispensable.—K., Southend.

12226.— Coll boilers.— I should not hesitate about
beating with a coil boiler, there is very little to be said
against them. It is true they are apt to corrode under the
influence of hard water and bum through, but that is only
after years of use. and they c&b eaeily be renewed at no
great expense.—K., Southend.

12189. — Azaleas not blooming. — Perhaps the
plants are in want of food. If they have been in the same

? ots for several years this will, in all probability, be the case.

hey should be shifted into a size larger pot, using good
peat with plenty of white sand in it. The right time to
shift is just when they commence to grow. Keep them
under glass, attending well to the watering and syringing
twice a day in hot weather until the middle of July, and
then turn them out-of-doors in the middle of September.—
J. C., Byjleet.

12200.— Creeper for thatched root.— There is
nothing better than Virginia Creeper, as it grows with peat
vigour, and if planted in good soil will quickly cover a Targe
space. Clematis Flatnmula is also a strong-growing climber,
flowers freely, and is sweet-scented.—J. C. B.

12184.—Geraniums In winter.— Do not cut them
down now as they would be more liable to rot than if left
intact. The middle of March is the time to cut them in if
too tall and then the terminal shoots will do for cuttings,
as they strike at that time of year.—J. C. B.

12201.—Plants for stumps Oi trees.— There is
nothing better than Ivies, both green or variegated, as
these are evergreen and so hardy; but with them you might
plantClcmatia Flammulaand Virginian Creeper, taking care
that the Ivy does not smother them until they get large
enough to tako care of themselves.—J. C. B.

William Thompson .—It is gainst our rules to give the
names of our correspondents unless we have their per¬
mission to do so.- 8. Latham.— Burbidge’s “Domestic

floriculture” and Hassard's “Floral Decorations” treat
on the subject you mention. Published by Blackwood

and Son, I/>ndon and Edinburgh.-S. Greaves.—Wc do

not recommend makers of hot-water apparatuses. It
would be invidious of us to do so.

Names of plants.— John Scitt (Dumfries).—The
plants with small black berries i» Phytolacca icosandra,
while the other is a variety of the Indian Shot (Canna).

- A. II. C .—Virginian Poke (Phytolacca decandra).—

P. S. G.—l, Santolina incana; 2, Lychnis Viscaria; 8,
Kudbeckia speciosa ; 4, Salvia Horminum ; 5, Linaria
utricta ; 6, Polygonum Brunonianum ; 7, Lavandula
StcDchas. See our rules. J. T.—l, Eupatorium Fraseri;

2, Sericographls Ghiesbreghtiona ; 8, Begonia semper-

florens ; 4, Begonia insignia.- A. Padley. —Call intern on

rigid us.- Gringo .—Alyssum maritimum is the name of

specimen sent. Please say which Scabious you refer to,

and we will answer query.- Falmouth — Veronica

decussata; apparently Eurybia Forsteri.- Erin. —1,

Aspidium aculeatum ; 2 and 3, Lastrea dilatata ; 4, Poly¬
podium vulg&re.

Names of fruit.—A. D.— 2, Round Winter Nonsuch ;

3, Yorkshire Beauty.- T. IF.—1, Irish Peach, probably ;

2, Luffntss Matchless.- S. A G.—l, Beurre I’Aremburg ;

2. Broom Park ; 8, Winter Nelis.- A. C. U. O .-Not

known.- Thomas W. Simpson.— Not -known.- JL

Liney.—d, Fearn’s Pippin; 7, Northern Greening.- F.

Geeson.—l, Golden Ducat; 2, Reinette du Canada.- J.

Day.— 1, Grange’s Pearmaln ; 4, Egg or Paradise; 2 and 3
not recognised.—— J. F. S. T.— 1, King of the Pippins ; 2,
Yellow Ingestrie.-Others next week.

QUERIES.

Rules fbr Correspondents.—A il cvmmunirations
for insertion shouUl be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the pajxr only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
do plume to be used in the pajxr. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answered L When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com •
munications the v:eek they are received. Queries not answered
should be sent to us again.

Naming plants or fruit.— Four plants, fruits, or
floicers only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimen art sent. We do not undertake to
name mrieties of florists? flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
name should alirays accomj>any the parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
specimens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12287.—Moles in garden.—I shall be glad of any
advice os to tho best means of destroying the moles in my
garden. The damage they are causing is much greater than
can be imagined. They have already quite ruined a newly
made bed of Strawberries, though twice planted, rows of
Celery and Leeks completely spoiled; in fact, anywhere
that a recent addition of manure attracts the worms
there my enemy is in a few hours. Several of my
Hoses are very sickly and I believe it is caused by the bed
being continuously tunnelled and the roots disturbed. I
set the usual iron traps but have only caught one in four
months, though frequently reset in different runs. Could
they bo poisoned, and how? I should odd that pasture fields
ore on two sides of me.—F. G.

12283. — Mulberry tree not growing. — Last
autumn a friend gave me a well-grown Mulberry tree
which 1 carefully transplanted into my garden. In the
spring it showed abundanoe of buds, but none of them ever
opened into leaf. Investigation from time to time showed
the tree to be alive and the buds quite green inside. This
October a few of the buds on n particular branch have burst
into leaf P but the rest are still dormant. What is the reason
of the not coming into leaf 1 I may mention that since

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Nov. 22, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

465

planting the tree I have made a raised flower bed around |
it 2 feet deep, so that the roota are buried to that extent
deeper than they were at first. Would the tree behave
like this if the roots were too deeply buried ?—A. P. H.

122S9.-Lapag-eria alba failing — I planted a white
Lapaceria j u«t two years ago in the border of a conservatory
(to run up against the back wall) built on the most approved
principles as to heating, ventilation, &c. The plant was a
high-priced one supplied by a well-known nurseryman in
the west of England, but the plant has not thriven and will
not make any progress. My gardener assures me that the
drainage is all right; soil, mostly peat and sand. It has
often made 6trong, healthy shoots, both from the bottom
and higher up the plant, and seems making a start when
they gradually dwindle away and die off. L. rosea thiives
well in a similar border close by. Can anyone suggest the
reason of the alba failing, and advise any special treat¬
ment ? I admire it so much I am wishful to grow a fine
specimen of it.— Ninbtta.

12290. — Cutting down Ferns.— I have a large
specimen of Scolopendrium crestata ; my gardener persists
in periodically cutting off the whole of the fronds when
they are perfectly green and vigorous, asserting that they
will spring up finer and stronger .for doing so. He treated
a pot of Farleyense in the same way, which I feel sure was
wroDg. Will any practical gardener give me his advice on
these two points?— Ninbtta.

12291.— Large Chrysanthemums. — Will anyone
kindly tell me what I had best do with some Chrysanthe¬
mum plants which I have had for the past three years?
For the last two years they have been divided in spring ;
they are now in magnificent bloom, the flowers very lar^e,
but the plants untidy and straggling. Should I divide
them again next spring, or take suckers from the roots, or
top them in June, and put down the tops to root ? Tho
plants, though old, are of very good kinds, and I should not
like to lose them.—A Constant Reader.

12292.— Rhubarb roots for forcing.— Could anyono
tell me what is the best way to treat Rhubarb roots that
have been forced in a pit ? Should they be planted out in
the open ground, and will any Rhubarb roots do for forc¬
ing ? I have just procured four more strong plants to
begin with, those 1 had last year having died after the
ordeal. I should be also glad of hints as to the best way
for forcing these.—H. M. H.

12293.—Ribbon border.— Will any experienced reader
inform me of the most showy and lasting plants to make a
ribbon border for a town garden in Scotland ? Hitherto I
have had Viola and Calceolaria, and would now like a
change. Three rows aro quite sufficient for my border,
which has good shrubs for a background. Whatever is
recommended please state period of planting. I do not
spare expense.— Montrose.

12294.—Blackberries —I believe successful experi'
nienta have been made in the cultivation of the common
Blackberry' for its fruit. This greatly interests me. and
being anxious to make some trials I should be glad if any
of your readers could give me information on the following
points : — What is the best sized plants for planting ?
Should they he trained to wire, and if so should the wires
be horizontal or vertical, and of what height ? What aspect
is best, and is it desirable to manure, and if so what is
the best manure for the purpose ? The ground available in
my case is the BagBhot sand, and ordinary Brambles are
abundant and thrive only too well.—E. A., Cam/xrlcy.

12295.—Phcenocoma prolifers.—I should be glad if
someone would tell me how to bloom a Phmnocomaprolifora.

I purchased a plant last November, which is a fair specimen,
but it has not bloomed this season. I have got a splendid
growth on it. Should 1 repot it or not ? The pot it is now
in is 14 inches across. The plant is 3 feet across. A little
information will oblige— Ahatbcr.

12296. — Variegated Hollies going green. — la
there any remedy for a variegated Holly which is gone
back to the original green typo ? The soil is heathy and
fibrous, of the kind which suits Rhododendrons and Heaths.
Could any chemical be applied which would make the soil
poorer, and so make the tree keep in a variegated state ?
The poorer the soil the better, as a rule, for variegated
things.— Db S.

12297.— Maiden-hair Ferns fading.— How is it my
Maiden-hair Ferns fade a few hours after they are picked,
whereas those which I buy at the florists* last days? I have
tried to harden them by taking them from a hothouse to a
cooler one, but with the same result Is it that they are
kept too moist ?—L. E. H.

12298 —Chrysanthemums changing colour —

I should msch like to know if it Is a common thing for
Chrysanthemums to change colour. I have plants which
were put in the garden three years ago and bore tawny-
coloured flowers. They have never been touched except
to be manured, and this year there are three distinct
coloured flowers on the plant; some have been very' large,
but they are now nearly over. There also have been several
pure white and pale yellow.— Alice Heal.

12299. — Chrysanthemums. — I have some good
Chrysanthemums now blooming in a greenhouse (without
heat) at tho end of a drawing-room (south-west aspect).
They are beginning to throw up rather weakly shoots from
the roots. Had I better keep them indoors through the
winter, or will it hurt them to turn them into the open
ground next month ? Some of them have shoots forming
up the stem. Are these any use for slips ?—M. A. B.

12300.— Tuberous Tropseolums.— I shall be glad
to be informed which variety of the above is most suitable
for a situation on south aspect. Soil, rather poor and dry,
on chalk not more than 12 inches deep, evergreens being
planted at base of wall. Is T. tuberosum a distinct variety
or merely the name of the class ?—E. C. B.

12301.— Vacant room for gardening.—I have
a room facing south-west, about 18 feet by 12 feet, with
two windows. Will someone kindly inform mo whether
such could bo profitably used for gardening purposes, such
as forcing Rhubarb or Strawberrios, or growing Tomatoe 9
or vinca in pots, with or without artificial heat?— Alpha.

12302.—Wall CODlng.—Will " J. C. C. ” kindly say how
he fixes the S-feet glass coping to the fruit trees on wall ?
It seems to me it must be difficult to make removable.
Would wire netting 9 inches or 1 foot wide, of 1 inch me9h,
be a protection or a covorWgTor wall fruit? I-Bristo-

CiO sfe

12303.— Pampas Grass.— The Pampas Grass in my
garden does not flowor till the beginning of October, and
then the flower is small. Can anyone tell me the cause of
this ?—T. H.

1230*. — Cutting down Maiden hair Ferns. —
Will someone tell me when to cut these Ferns down? They
are now making fresh fronds.—L. E. H.

12305.—Wort —Will some reader kindly tell me the
meaning of the word “ wort ” being applied to plants gene¬
rally ?—A. S.

12306.—Vine not flruitlng.— Will someone tell me
what to do to An old vine, planted inside, which makes
lots of wood and leaves, and shows for fruit but does not
properly ripen. We manured it well two years ago. How
should it be pruned ? Would it be wise to out it back very
hard ?—J. G.

12307.— Erecting cheap greenhouses.— Will any
reader inform me the cheapest method of erecting a span-
roofed greenhouse, to be heated with a 4-inch flow-and-
return pipe. Dimensions of house to be 100 feet long, 14
feet wide, 9 feet high, with a 10-feet rafter, eavea 18 inches
from the ground. The angle of roof to be 46 degs., with
ventilators along each side. Would the patent lead slips
be of any advantage and are they cheaper than wood ?—
Mat.

12308.— Pampas Grass.— Will someone kindly say
how the plumes of Pampas Grass are bleached?—W. A.

12309.—Sowing Grass seed.— What is the be6t time
to sow Grass seed, and how long will it be before it germi¬
nates?^. D. Owen.

12310.—Passion-flower not blooming.—I have a

I ilant of Passifiora ccerulea which I bought in April last,
t was then in a pot and was about 1} feet high. I placed
it in the open ground, facing west, where it gets a great
deal of sun against an arch over which I have trained it, and
it is now about 8 feet high. It looked very healthy all tho
early part of the summer, but sometime ago it lost all it a
lower leaves, although the top is still thickly covered. In
September I pinched out the centre fch'ot, hoping thus to
make it grow thicker at its base and to flower. It has not
done so, but it has put out a very long eide shoot, nearly
at the top. What should 1 do to induce it to bloom ?
Should it be cut back or is there any special manure which
would benefit it ? Is it a gross feeder ? Any Information
will oblige. The «oil here in Wellington College is very
poor, but the Passion flower is planted in virgin soil, which
was broken and thoroughly manured with stable manure
and well trenched for the* first time in February last.—
Ethel Crowthorne.

12311.— Building a hothouse.-I shall be glad of
a little advice with mv proposed hothouse. I propose
building it against a wall sheltered from the north and casi,
opened to the south, with a south-south-east aspect. It
will be 8 feet high in ridge of roof, 3 foet high in front.
Tho roof is set at an angle of 43 degs. I propose to havo
glass top (roof) and ends, not the front. I have a “Star "
boiler, 1 foot 9 inches high, and four lengths of 3-inch iron
pipe 6 feet long ; also three bends or syphons, these I have
fittedinanotherhouse;itdoesnotactnicely and I cannot get
sufficient heat to force Cucumbers. My proposed house
will contain about 750 cubic feet, and will have 163 feet
supr. of lighting space, which, I helieve, reduces the heat
considerably. Will some reader advise me os to the best
shape of house and angle of roof, also can I hope to get
sufficient heat from the boiler and pipes I have? Any
advice will be thankfully received by one who has worked
hard only to fail.— Essex.

POULTRY.

Fowls for laying. —Tho perplexing ques¬
tion, “ Does it pay to keep poultry ?” seems as
far off as ever from being satisfactorily settled.
Speaking from experience as an old poultry
keeper, I say that poultry can and cannot be
made to pay. If they be kept not to pay, treat
them as pampered pets, and ouy costly fittings
and appliances. Stuff them also with expensive
food and condiments, and you will then get
a minimum quantity of eggs at a maximum
cost, and the profit that you ought to make will
go into the pockets of those who supply such
articles. It is well known by scientific men
that high feeding tends to barrenness and
sterility, and this remark is of wide applica¬
tion. Low (not inadequate) feeding, on the
other hand, has the opposite effect. In proof
of this, look at the enormous quantity of Irish
eggs that are imported into Liverpool every
week, winter ana summer. These little Irish
hens are the best layers in the world, both for
size and quahtity, and, with the exception of a
pan of boiled “praties” (chats), they have to
seek their own living in the lanes and ditches. I
have had a pair of Irish creels, a breed which, by-
the-bye, seems unknown to your readers. They
cost me half-a-crown from an Irish dealer.
Since I have had them they have only had, with
the exception of kitchen scraps, one meal daily,
and that corn exchange sweepings, given just
before going to rooBt. They havo averaged five
eggs a week each since March, and are now
moulting and laying at the same time. Another
breed I have had is the Bolton grey, or ever¬
lasting layer. I have kept poultry for many
years for eggs only, and I find if a hen must be
a good layer she must be a good scratcher.
This excites her digestive organs, and keeps her
warm and in good health. The hot breakfast I
consider a mistake, as it is not natural; it

causes an excess of fat internally and also
disease. The hen likes the food, she fills herself
nearly to bursting, and then goes under the
hedge and mopes till next meal time, instead of
half-filling herself with any green stuff she can
find. Can a hen be healthy, I ask, under such
conditions ?—A Lancashire Poultry Keeper.

Chicken rearing* in confinement.—
I commenced poultry keeping two years ago,
when I began with a game cock and six half-
bred game hens purchased out of a farm yard.
That year I bred from these and added some
Houdans to them. This year I have reared
seventy chicken, including some good Houdan
pullets. I have excellent accommodation for
poultry in the shape of a large yard, opening
into unlimited grass fields, and substantial brick
outbuildings for roosting-places. I purpose to
keep about forty birds for laying, and to have
a special pen for breeding. The parental roof
would contain six or eight hens and a Houdan
cock. I should be glad to know how soon these
should be separated from the general stock.
After rearing enough birds for stock purposes
the remainder would have to be brought forward
for the market as early chicken. And the
special point upon which I seek the friendly
advice of the correspondents of Gardenino,
from whom I have already gleaned much
helpful information, is this—whether, after I
have got all the eggs I want for setting from
my separate breeding stock, say in April, I can
return these birds to the yard and draft off the
young chicken, as they are ready to leave their
mothers, into the disused pen, that they may
there be fattened up for market? Chicken, I
find, do not thrive well when running at large
with the full-grown fowls. At the same time
they pine and refuse their food if cooped up for
fattening after being accustomed to full liberty.
My idea, therefore, is to draft each brood into
this pen as soon as they leave their mother, and
bring them up together there. I want to know
whether this plan is likely to succeed. I should
be thankful for any suggestions as to the rearing
of chicken in confinement. What should be
the dimensions of the* pen or run to hold, say,
eighty to one hundred chicks ? Would this be
too many to keep in one enclosure ? I could
give them an hour’s liberty in the yard before
the elder birds were let out. My chicken are
very healthy on my present system, but do not
make flesh quickly, and I think they would do
better if kept separate ; but before I decide
upon a change of plan I should like advice
from more experienced breeders as to the pro¬
bability of success. —Houdan.

Fowls getting fiat.—“D.”—The only
reason we can give for your fowls putting on so
much internal fat, without much genuine flesh
on their bones, is that your feeding is too rich
and gross, and the birds are not allowed enough
exercise or a proper amount of green or other
beneficial fooa. Do you give them much Indian
Corn? Nothing is so liable to cause internal
fat as this grain, especially with heavy breeds,
such as the Cochin and Brahma. We should
recommend you to feed for a few weeks on dry
corn only—Barley and Oats would be as good as
any—and withhold all meat or other rich foods.
G ive also a dose or two of calomel, half a grain
per bird, once or twice a week in the form of a
bread pill. You say they have entirely given
up laying. If they are old fowls, or even 1883
birds, this is only natural, as the moulting
season is now on, and no fowls will lay during
that period.— Andalusian.

Poultry for large run.-“ D. E. C.”—If
your field of two acres is well drained, and
slopes towards south or west, you could keep
Houdans or Minorcas very well; but if on the
contrary it lies low, and is exposed to cold
winds, we should recommend a hardier sort,
such as Brahmas or Plymouth Rocks. Be sure
and build the house on the highest part of the
field. You might well keep fifty birds on the
space, say forty-five hens and five cocks. Now
is a good time to buy a few stock birds, as
breeders have generally got pure bred specimens
fyet not good enough for show purposes) to sell
at killing prices. A dozen or so of good-sized
hens would do, with two vigorous cocks, to
commence with ; and with ordinary luck you
ought to have a fine flock by next autumn. The
best birds to cross with Houdans or Minorcas
would bo Er&bir.&s cr Malays,, the latter for
table use especially.— And alusiaW!

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

460

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 22, 1884.

BEES.

Young queon. —Could “ S. S. G., Box-
worth,” kindly tell me the reason of my No. 2
bee-hive queen flying at this time of year? VVe
brought our bees home from the moors about a
month ago, and I drove and united two other
hives to it, so that it is now a hive of very great
strength. I see it has a slight sprinkling of
brood not hatched out yet. Can it be possible
for the old queen to have died, and the bees to
have raised another one at this season, or what
is the reason of her flying, and what could I do
to save the hive ? I have four others all very
strong, and would not care to unite another
hive to it. An answer through Gardening
would greatly oblige.— Inquirer. [The fact of
the young queen flying proves almost certainly
that she is newly hatched, having been reared
to take the place of the old queen, who has died
from age or accident, and as, of course, there
are now no drones to mate with her, she will be
worthless for breeding. This being so, the only
remedy is to introduce to the hive a fertile
queen, first removing the present one, or unite
the bees to another colony. It is very late in
the season to perform either of these opera¬
tions, but better to risk a little in this way
than let the stock die out, and it certainly
will in time if it does not possess a fertile
queen.—S. S. G., Baxworfh.]

inf! ORNAMENTAL and FLOWERING

JLUU SHRUBS for 7s. 6 d., carriage paid; half for 4 h ;
height 9 inches to 3 feet, to include Euonymu*. \ cromca
Traversii, &c —H ENRY & CO., near Amcreham. Bucks,

A URICULAS, named Show and Alpine varie-

iA ties. 12s. doz.; Seedling Auricula*, from. the .above, |

ties, 12s. doz.; Seedling -

Is 9d. doz.; finest named Phlox. 2s. doz.-
WRIGHT. Olds win ford, Stourbridge.

-G. W. WHEEL-

DEANE & CO.’S
&EM” CONSERVATORY

(DESIGN REGISTERED NO. 14885.)

Crested Hart's-tongue, i—, —- .

Is. 2d., free.— FITZPEET, Rathanny, Tralee, Ke rry.

PRIMULAS, extra strong in bloom, 6s. to 12s.

-L per doz ; Chrysanthemum cuttings. Is. to Is. fid. per doz.;
double white Primrose, strong. 3s. per doz. ; Chrysanthemum
flowers, Is. per doz.—GEORGE MATTHEWS, Nine Elms
Nursery, Leek._____

T O GARDENERS.—Wanted, Clearings off

Carpet Beds for stock, as Alteraantheras (amrena and
a urea). Sedums, Sempervirum tabulasforme, &c.—Address to
GARDENER, Clifton House, St. Saviour s. Jersey._

MAIDEN-HAIR FERNS, splendid plants, in

1Y1 5 -inch pots, at Is. each, 10 s. per doz. Sample postJroe
15 stamps. -J. HAND & CO.. 19, Birloy St. Wanda worth.S.W.

-“ERNS ! FERNS 1—Adiantum Facotti, Pteris

serrulatn cristata (Cowani), nice plants—these two fine
new Ferns free by post for 6 a. per doz. ; Lastrea aristata
variegata, Adiantum cuneatum, and A. graclllimum (Lomaria
Gibba), nice plants of these varieties free by post for 4 b. per
doz. Cash wit* order.—The Liverpool Horticultural Co.
( John Cowau), The Vineyard A Nurseries, Garston, Liverp ool.

Q1X very strong ROSES on own roots, 3s.;

Kj twelve, 5s , free, my selection. Purchasers will oblige by
naming any required.—Cash with order to >V. DAWorilv,
Ruettes Brayes Lodge, Guernse y, Channel Isles._

TTIOLAS! VIOLAS !—Good strong plants, true,
V Cliveden yellow and Cliveden white, 2s.per 100 .—JOHN
HAMER, Nurseryman and Seedsman, 4, Green End,
Whitchurch. ___

HOUSEHOLD.

r£0 THE TRADE.-

Apple charlotte. —The following is a good
and economical recipe : Take apples, pare, core,
and quarter them; butter a pie-dish, and put
your apples plentifully in with sugar and a little
lemon juice, then a few slices of bread and butter.
Proceed thus until your dish is full, pile it high,
as it sinks so. Be sure and have plenty of apples
in, and be sparing with your bread and butter,
or it will not be nice. Cover it well with the
parings and bake. When done, take the parings
off, turn out, and grate a little sugar over it.
This will be found a simple and delicious pudding
if made properly. Another way :—Take a plain
round mould, about 5 inches deep; butter well
inside. Cut some thin stale bread into strips for
the sides and a round for the bottom. Melt
some butter and dip the bread into it, and line
the mould so that there are no vacant places.
Stew some apples to make a pulp, which must
be firm and well sweetened, mellowed with
butter, and flavoured with lemon juice. . Very
little, if any, water must be used. Fill the
mould with the pulp ; lay a piece of buttered
bread on the top ; put a plate with a weight to
keep the fruit in its place, and bake about three-
quarters of an hour till the bread is browned ;
turn out and serve with cream or sifted sugar.

Rabbit soup. —One full-grown rabbit, one
moderate sized onion, ^ gill of cream, one table¬
spoonful flour, 2 quarts water, pepper and
salt to taste. Skin and clean the rabbit, put
the water in a saucepan over a clear fire, and
when it boils put in the rabbit and the onion
chopped small, salt and pepper to taste. After
boiling for three quarters of an hour, take out
the rabbit, remove the meat from the bones, cut
it into small pieces, and return it to the soup.
Boil again for half an hour, then mix the flour
smoothly with the cream, and add it to the
soup; let it boil again for a quarter of an hour.
Time altogether one and a-half hours. Pour into
a warm tureen and serve.

Clove syrup.—Tako two ounces of cloves, put thorn
in a pan, and cover with water. Let them lie two or
three days, then strain, and to every pint of juice add one
pound of sugar and boil one hour. The cloves should be
previously beaten to laying them in water. This syrup is
very nice for flavouring applo pics, or to mix with a littlo
rum on a cold morning.

To make marble cream.-Spread a thin layer of
apricot or some other pale-coloured preserve, on a glass
dish—a tablcspoonful of sherry and a few blanched sweet
almonds sliced are a -great improvement—tako one pint of
cream and thoroughly dissolve it in a quarter of an ounce
of isinglass, not allowing it to boil; put it into a jug and
stir occasionally until nearly cold ; pour over the preserve
and set aside to become firm.

Crab apple jelly.—Put ns many crabs as required
Quartered and cored) in a preserving kettle with a suffi¬
cient quantity of water to cover them, boil to a pulp, then
strain through a jelly bag ; put the juice back into the
kettle. To everv pound of crabs used put 10 ounces of
sugar and boil till it sets: if preferred coloured a little
cochineal may be used. Red crabs arc best to use.-C
Rlcion.

Candled peel.—Cary^ny'rcader frive_m,ej receipt for

making candied.peo\ ?• 1

GLOBE ARTICHOKES.

2,001 for sale.

doz.—JOHN JV HA.IH.JSK, JV
Seedsman, 4, Green End, Whitchurch, Salop.

LUEBELLS or " WILD

HYACINTHS.—

Sound bulbs, carefully packed arid delivered free, 200 ,
2 s. fid.; 5 03. 5s.-FR ED L.VRRAD, Horbury, Yo rk shire.

WANTED, a large quantity of EUCHARTS

V » AMAZONICA BULBS. Send sample and lowest price
per 1 00 to J. FISIIHR. ■ ■ te, Nottiugha m.

WHITE JAPANESE ANEMONE. -Strong

* * roots for planting now, to bloom next autumn.

I, carriage

and

Great

fid. p

Hadhi

iam. Herts.

1 OH CROCUS BULBS, post free, Is. fid. ;

IvU 200 ditto, post free. 2s. 6 d.; Gladiolus in vnrioty.
Is. dozen; Hyacinths, best named varieties, double or single,
3«. dozen, post free 3s. fill.; mixed varieties. 2s. dozen. Snow¬
drops. 2s. 3d. 100, post free ; Camellias, with six to eight buds,
2s each; Azaleas, well set with buda, 2a ; three plants, past
free. 7a.—W. OULLINGFORD, Forest Gate.

STANDARD ROSES, 10s. dozen; Wegebig

O Rosea, 6 feet high, bushy. Is. each : Spruce Firs, 2 feet to
3 feet, 6 d. each ; Ribes 8 carlct Flower, 6 d. each ; Laburnums,
8 feet high, Is. 6 d. each (named); Rhododendrons (10 buds),
Is. 6 d. each.—W . CULLI NG* ORD, Forest Gate, E. _

F R A PUBLIC INSTITUTION, Co-operative

Store, Insurance Company, or large Mercantile House.
—To be SOLD or LET, the very extensive PREMISES in Long
Acre, formerly known as the Queen's Theatre, having com¬
manding frontage? to throe BtreetB, and covering a total
superficial area of 10,000 feet, together with the adjoining
property. No. 85, Long Acre, at the corner ot Charles Street,
which communicates on all floors. The buildings are of a
moat substantial character, and well lighted. There is a
handsome entrance from Long Acre, with spacious stone-
paved hall and vestibulo. The principal floors are of fire¬
proof construction, and the premises are fitted with hydraulic
lifts ft Dd every convenience —Full particulars and orders to
view of Messrs. DEBKN HAM. TEWSON, FARMER. '
BRIDGEWATER. 80 Cheapaide. E C._

10 feet long, 8 feet wide. 10 feet 6 inches high.

Price complete with lantern roof, staging, coloured glass in
lantern and door, ventilating lights in side “J.
gutter and down pipe, and Loughborough Hot-watcr Appa
ratus with 15 feet of 4-inch pipe.

£25 NETT.

“GEM” CONSERVATORY as above, 12 feet

long, 8 feet wide, £28 nott *

Erected complete within fifteen miles of London Bridge, or
delivered carriage free to any station in England, with every
part marked for fixing.

OPINIONS OF THE PRES8.

“ A marvel of economy.”— Gardener'a Malotine.

•• A cheap and handsome conservatory.

“ An ornamental and useful conservatory. — Garden IJ or*

•• There is nothing like the * Gem .'Ladw Pictorial ,.

DESIGNS AND ESTIMATES FOR CONSERVATORIES,

BU

| LOUGHBOROUGH HOT-WATER
APPARATUS.

Complete as shown, with
12 ft. of 4-in. Hot-Water
Pipe, £4 is.

Delivered free to any
station. Discount for
cash.

The simplest, cheap¬
est, and most powerful
apparatus made. It re¬
quires no brick setting.
— no stokehole, and no

hot-water titter for fixing, and burns more than twelve hours
without attention. , ... . . . . . .

Loughborough Boilers to heat up to 6o0 feet of 4-inch pipe,
with hot water pipes, joints, &c., always in stock.

COST OF APPARATUS FOR HOUSES OF ANY SIZE ON
APPLICATION.

CATALOGUE WITH PARTICULARS FREE.

DEANE & CO.,

FI R TREE OlL IN SECTICIDE (soluble in water
Effectually clears all INSECTS and PARASITES from the
Roots or Foliage of Trees and Plants. Kullsall^ egetable
Grubs, Turnip Fly, &c. Cures Mildew and Blight. Clear*
Grapes from Mealy Bug, &c„ and makes a good Winter
Dressing. Of all Seedsmen and Chemists, Is 6 d.. 2s. od.,
4s. fid. a bottle Per gallon 12s. 6 d., or less in larger quantities.
A Treatise on “Fir Tree Oil,''andi^ap}>luM-ion.^ntfrceon
rereivt of address bv the Manufacturer, E. uRIr 1 II Ho
HuBhSs, MANCHESTER. Wholesale from Hooper 4
Co.; Corby, Soper, Fowler t Co. ; C. E. Osman & Co.,
and from all the London He*! Merchants and Wholesale
Patent Medicine Hoc hop._____

GARDEN

HOCOA-NUT FIBRE REFUSE, Is. 3d. pel

U bag; 10 bags for 12s.; 30 for 30s.; truck load, free on
rail, 30s.; Best Brown Fibrous Peat, 5«. per Rack, 5 for 22b. 6 d.;
Black Fifcrous Peat, 4s. 6 d. nor sack, 5 for 20a.; Coarse Silvoi
Sand, Is. 6 d. per bushel; Yellow Fibrous Loam, Leaf, auo
Peat Mould, Is per bush. Potting and Bulb Composts, Is. 4d.
per bush.; 5s. per saok Rm»la Mats of d escription.

Artificial manures. Garden Sticks and I^eta. TobaccoCloth
and Paper.—Write for price list.—W. E. WARD & CO., Unioc
Chambers, Wormwood Street. London, B.C. _

Benuine Barden Requisites.

A S SUPPLIED TO THE ROYAL GARDENS,

O. the leading Gentry, and Florists of the United Kingdom,
Cocoa-nnt Fibre Refuse, best only. Is. 6d. persack; 10 forllto.;
15 for 18s.; 20 for 22s.; 30 for 30b.. sacks inoluded. Tru^,

HORTICULTURAL

BUILDERS AND
ENGINEERS,

HOT - WATER

*«■ K £& e Yt! mara } LONDO N BRIDGE.

BOULTON & PAUL,

Horticultural Builders, Norwich.

Manufacturers of Hot-water Apparatus, Ac.

No. 75. Melon or Cucumber Frames.

Ca-ui PuroF-s. Carriage Paid.

No. 2 8 ft. long 6 ft. wide £3 7 6

No. 3 12 ft. long 6 ft. wide 4 17 6

No. 4 16 ft. long 6 ft. wide 6 7 6

Depth in front, 13 inches; back, 24 inches; lights, 2 niches
thick, strengthened with iron rod; one handle to each light ,
all painted four coats aud glazed with best 21hoz. English
glass. Carriage paid to any Railway Station in England and
Wale*, also to Edinburgh. Glasgow, Dublin, and Belfast

Packing cases are
charged and allowed
for in full if returned
at once

IRON HURDLES, CATES,

TREE GUARDS, IRON AND WIRE
ESPALIER, &c.,

MATERIAL for WIRING GARDES' WALLS.

GALVANISED

"free on^rajlj 33s.

containing more than two tons, fi
Brown Fibrous Peat, 5s. per Back ;

4s. 6d. per sack: 5 for 20s. Coarse -

bushel; 14s. hali ton; 25e. per ton. Yellow Fibro *jj Loam,
Leaf Mould, and Peat Mould, each at D. per bushel
Saokb and Bags 4d. kaoh. Fresh Sphagnum, 8 s. 6d. pel
aack. Mauures, Garden Sticks, Labels, Virvn Cork, Russian
Mats, Raffia. Prepared Compoet, Feri-dlser, Ac. Best
TOHAP.nn r,T/)TH, 8 d. per lb.; 28 lb., 18 s. SPECIALITE
10d. per lb.; 28 lb. 21*. Price List on apphea-

-A CO., 2. Hop Exchange Warehouses.

idon S.E. (late 19, New Broad Street).

EYE9, 7d. per dozen. HOLDFASTS, with Winde-s,
7s. per dozeo. WIRE, 23. per 100 yards.
Illustrated Catalogue free on application.

|baylISS, JONES, & BAYLISS,

VICTORIA WORK?, WOLVERHAMPTON.

And 3, Crooked Lane, King William Street, London, J5.G
Hcjk name this paver.

AD, aged 17, WANT'SK SITUATION In the
l C.ayden: baa Wen .out b’efort?; goqd chwartcrV—G.
IDMAS.'iuJd'in &uWRl44'fadl gfcvGnoifra, Kent.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

NOVEMBER 29, 1884.

No. 299.

FRUIT.

CULTURE OF BANANAS.

Tu* cultivation of Bananas under glass is by no
means difficult. We grow them here in a
stove among a general collection of plants. This
season two plants fruited, and the heaviest of
the two clusters weighed over half a hundred¬
weight, although grown in only a 10-inch pot.
After the fruit is all cut wo throw away the old
plants, saving only one sucker, which has been
allowed to grow at the base of the old plant.
That is taken off with as many roots attached
to it as possible, and potted in a convenient
sized pot. The suckers which we have this
season, being strong, were put into 10-inch pots
at once. In those they will remain until the
pots are well filled with roots, when they will
be shifted into 14-inch ones, and finally into
18-inoh ones, in which they are ex¬
pected to fruit. The soil which
we use is chiefly turfy loam,
with a little rotten manure

in it. Good drainage is neces¬
sary, as they require abund¬
ance of water when the pots in
which they are to fruit are well
filled with roots. When tho last
shift is given them the pots should
not be filled too full; on the cou-
trary, room should be left for a
good rich top-dressing when they
begin to show fruit, and when the
fruit is swelling plenty of manure
water should he given them. We
plunge the pots in a bed of soil,
but they get no bottom heat. The
temperature of the house in which
they grow ranges from GO degs. to
70 degs. in winter, and from
6 o degs. at night to 80 de^s. in the
daytime in summer. When the
fruit is ripening a little higher
temperature by means of sun-heat
is allowed. They should fruit iu
about eighteen months—more or
leas —according to the size of the
sucker when taken off. When
showing fruit the stem generally
is about 6 feet high, and the fully-
developed leaves on a good strong
plant measure 5 feet long. There
are several varieties of Banana, hut
the best for fruiting in moderate-
sized houses is Musa Cavendishi.

When the fruits are approaching
maturity the plants should be kept
rather drier at the root than
hitherto, and water should not he
allowed to touch them ; if possible,
too, a drier atmosphere should be
maintained. Bananas are very oraamental a a
well as useful, and their fruits, wh r ch are used
in various ways, make a good addition to the
dessert. _

EARLY MELONS IN POTS.

A good Melon is generally acceptable at any
time, from the commencement of tho London
season onwards, and Melons are especially valu¬
able throughout May and June. At least, this
is my experience ; hut perhaps it is not incum¬
bent on tho majority of cultivators to hsve them
ripe till the end of June or early in July. Tho
following remarks are, however, for the benefit
of those who may feel disposed to commence tho
i culture of these choice fruits rather earlier than
usual.

Varieties.—N ot a little depends upon the
I choice of suitable varieties for the purpose, some
[ripening much quicker and with much less suu-
1 shine and beat than others which are perhaps no
1 better in quality. The old Victory of Bath we
I used to grow for the earliest crops. This, in my
I estimation, is superior to Gilbert’s presumably

nproved form and * " ”* ...

-f easy cull

free setting, hut unfortunately all are liable to
crack, and if we give more air to check the crack¬
ing tendency we also check the swelling off of
choicer succes&ional fruit. Kastnor Castle, if
obtained true, much resembles the foregoing as
far as growth, free bearing, and free setting are
ooncerned ; but, being rather more vigorous, it
perfects a heavier crop of good-sized and, as a
rule, well netted fruit, which are less liable to
crack, besides being of a bettor appearance and
quality. This variety is, however, by no means
perfect, and I only grow it for early crops. The
best scarlet companion to it is Blenheim Orange,
an excellent Melon for all crops. Even of this
there are different forms ; but one which we were
fortunate enough to obtain from the gardens in
which the variety originated ripens nioreqnickly
than any other sort we have, and the fruits are
large and handsomely netted ; the tleah, too, is
thick and unsurpassed in flavour by any Melon

Dell’s Hybrid. All of
c and

Chinese Banana iu fruit.

grown. If a third variety is required—and I
advise no one to rely exclusively upon one or two
sorts—I would recommend High Cross Hybrid,
this with me being another free setting, richly-
flavoured, green-fleshed Melon. The greatest
difficulty in the case of those with imperfect
means is experienced in

Preparing the young plants for early
forcing. When raised, as they oftentimes are,
on hot-water pipes, or over evaporating troughs,
aud then transferred to warm shelves near the
glass, the plants are liable to become much drawn
and weakly, or, worse still, infested by some
kind of insect pest common in general plant
atovoa. Weakly plants may be in^ncod to gaiu
the required vigour, but any on which either
moaly bug, red spider, black aphis, and thripa
have effected a lodgment had better be thrown
away at once, as it is almost impossible to clean
them. If not thrown away, it not unfrequently
happens that by the time the infested
plants have set their crops they will be com¬
pletely ruined by one or more of the pests just
enumerated, and much valuable time and space
are wasted. The best place in which to raise
the plants is in a light forcing house and on a
mis »d hotbed formed of either tanners’ hark or

this and leaves mixed, or leaves and stable
manure which have been previously shaken up
together and allowed to ferment for about eighteen
days or longer, if heat is generated slowly,
being turned once in that time. A bottom heat,
obtained by means of either of these materials,
ranging from 80 degs. to 00 degs., is of great
value for propagating and seed raising generally.
To sow the seeds thickly in 5-inch or larger-
sized pots, thus necessitating potting off, and
perhaps a loss of plants, or at the least a con¬
siderable check, is a mistake by no means
uncommon. We prefer to sow Melon seeds
singly in 3-inch pots filled with moist loamy
soil. Plunged in moist bottom heat no water is
given, as if it is the seeds are liable to rot. I
find tho newer the seeds the sooner they germi¬
nate, and in spite of the old-fashioned prejudice
in favour of old seed, I give the prefereucc to
the stronger plants resulting from now seeds.

Slugs are very destructive amongst
yoiing Melon plants, aud must L*e
closely looked after. The seed¬
lings, being raised early in January
and even February, arc certain to
become more or leas drawn, and
will require to be lightly supported
from the outset, and also to be
well raised up to the light, but not
subjected to a low temperature.
Before becoming at all root-hound a
shift should be given, placing them
in 6-inch pots and good loamy soil
previously warmed. They ought
from the first to be kept growing
iu u temperaturo ranging not lower
than GO degB. to G5 degs. by night
to from 70 degs. to 75 degs. by day.
Early Melons need not necessarily
be grown in pots ; on the contrary,
they may be planted in small raised
heaps of soil, and which plan
shall receive the preference
ought to depend entirely upon
circumstances. Supposing plung¬
ing material is unavailable, the
Bottom heat being entirely pro¬
vided by two or more hot-water
pipes, then I should say, grow the
Melons in heaps of soil on a slate
staging. Again, if the pipes are
high, being, in fact, for top-heating
purposes, I would employ pots set
on the pipes, takiDg care that they
always received abundance of

water. In such a position I have
had them do well, but during
bright weather they were fre¬
quently watered heavily three

times a day. They, however,
paid for it, and would have
been failures without tho closest
possible attention. Where there is a pit

along the front of a forcing house, with

perhaps one or two return pipes by way of
bottom heat, and heating materials abundant,
I would recommend pots for the earliest ciop*,
as there is no doubt that pots induce uu
early disposition to fruit. While the plants
are gaining strength in 0-inch pots, one of
these pits may be filled with heating material
—the best perhaps being a mixture of good Oak
or Beech leaves and farmyard manure pre¬
pared as above recommended—and in this when
found not to exceed 90 degs. be plurged tho
fruiting pots. Various sizes are adopted by
different growers, but w'e prefer those either
15 inches or 18 inches in diameter and arrange
them about 12 inches apart. They are then
loosely fillod w'ith good turfy loam to which has
been added a few shovelfuls of slaked lime, ancl
some clay, if this latter is absent in the loam.
The soil will become thoroughly w armed in time
to receive the plants before they are root-bound.
When planting MelonB at any time, the soil
cannot wtll be too firmly rammed, as the fiinier
and closer it is the more fibres do the roots form,
the result being more sturdy and fruitful top
growth. Manure in the soil ako encourages a

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

468

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

too luxuriant top growth. A particularly strong
bottom heat during the earlier stages of the
plant’s growth is also objectionable, and too
often do Melons get it instead of when required,
viz., when swelling off their crops. In anticipa¬
tion of renewing the bottom heat as often as
required, and also to prevent undue sinking, it
is advisable to place the fruiting pots on either
temporary brick pedestals or other large pots,
and this admits of much of the old material about
them being replaced by some that is freek and
unexhausted. The new material ought not,
from fear of over-heating, to be packed very
firmly about the pots ; but when the heat de¬
clines it should be rammed more closely, thus
tending to check rapid radiation.

Training the plants.— -No one thinks of
training the plants otherwise than over a wired
or trellised roof, the wires or trellis being
usually about 12 inches from the glass. Strong
stakes should be placed behind the plants, ana
fixed to the lowest wire of the trellis. Up these
the plants should be led, all side shoots which
they form being kept closely rubbed out. The
leaves will act as stem swellers, and if the laterals
are left till it is necessary to cut them out, that
almost invites an attack of canker, especially
when the top-growth overshadows tho undei-
growth. When the wires are reached the
main growths should still be trained, stopping
not being resorted to till about 3 feet in length
has been added, while the laterals should be
carefully laid in on each side, a few of them only
being rubbed out where at all crowded. Most
of the laterals will show fruit, a joint or two
beyond which the points may be pinched out.
This isdone before it is necessary to use tho knife,
the aim being to have the trellis thinly covered
with strong, healthy leaves, as little pruning
being resorted to as possiblo. The crop of Melona
in pots especially must be set simultaneously, and
fertilising, as a rule, should not be attempted till
throe or four blooms are open on a plant at the
same time. Then, after a little air has been given
and the pollen has dried, the female or fruit-
bearing flowers Bhould be set with the pollen of
the m-tle or barren blooms. Syringing should
be discontinued till sufficient fruit has set, and
the atmosphere also must be kept dryer. A
strong plant in an 18-inch pot ought to perfect
four good fruit, averaging 2 lb. in weight, but
we are frequently satisfied with threo rather
larger fruit. If this number is not set at the
first attempt, pinch off the fruit or two that
have commenced swelling off, and fertilise the
blooms on the upper laterals and those sub¬
laterals resulting from stopping the lower
strong laterals. All superfluous growths should
be kept rubbed out or pinched off. This tends
to concentrate tho whole strength of tho plants
on the fruit, and it will generally bo a waste of
space to attempt to secure a good second crop
from one set of plants. With regard to

Watering and other details, I should
strongly advise beginners to attend well to the
watering of pot plants, as they should never be
dry at the roots, not even when the fruits
have reached the ripening stage, as this
greatly impairs their quality. From the time
the fruits are Bet till near ripening liquid
manure should be given almost daily, and both
this and the water given at the roots and used
for syringing ought always to be of the same
temperature as the house. Some of the arti¬
ficial manures are suitable, including Peruvian
guano, but these must be used cautiously and
no stronger than the respective vendors advise 1
them to be used. We prefer the liquid
manure obtained from a farmyard. We dilute
it according to its apparent strength, and prefer
frequent moderate supplies to occasional heavy
doses. The houses in which early Melons are
growing require bnt little ventilation, and if the
temperature reaches 100 degs. it does the plants
gooo, provided the soil in the pots is moist and
plenty of water is distributed about the house.
We do not syringe the plants heavily overhead
in the mornings, but when the house is closed
early on a clear day they are freely syringed.
A top-dressing of loam and horse manure in
equal quantities is given directly the fruiting
laterals are forming, and subsequently a thin
^dressing of short nearly fresh manure encourages
'top root action. Great care is to be taken not
break any of the fully grown leaves, or the
>tstalks may decay and affect the stems. If a
isk growing temperature rather above the
given above is maintained, canker,

the greatest evil we have to contend with,
seldom occurs. Directly there arc signs of
this, keep the stems rb dry as possible, and
frequently coat the affected parts with either
common cement or powdered unBlaked lime.
This serves to dry up the exuding sap, and in
this inauner wo have preserved affected plants
till the crops have ripened. Green and black
aphis and thrips must be kept down by fumiga¬
ting, mealy bug by catching and crushing, and
red spider by liberal treatment and the main-
tainancc of a moist growing atmosphere. In
small establishments three or four plants in
batches are preferable to a greater number at
one time with the contingency of an undesirable
glut of ripe fruits. The second or Buccessional
sowing may be made about three weeks sub¬
sequent to the first. A drier atmosphere best
suits ripening Melons, but need not be resorted
to when there are later batches in the same
bouse. W. I. M.

GROWING VINES IN POTS.

The forcing season is now upon us, and those
who have to supply early Grapes, and have no
means of doing so, except from pot vines, must
pay great attention to them during the next
few months. In some cases cultivators are
enabled to purchase pot vines ready grown for
them ; but they are expensive, and not infre¬
quently they have to be produced at home. For
a number of years I had to grow early Grapes
on pot vines after having grown the vines from
which the Grapes were produced. First of all
in doing this wo must decide what are the best
varieties to grow. Black Hamburgh is by far
the best; and for a white kind Foster’s Seedling
may be chosen, although Royal Muscadine is not
to be despised. It sets its berries well. Shy-
setting Grapes ought not to be grown in pots to
force early.

Propagating. —The eyes must be put in
early ; the first or second week in January was
always selected by us as the best time to do
this. We used to prepare a bed of fermenting
material ; tan is as good as anything, as it does
not heat violently. Each eye was inserted
singly in a 3-inch pot. The potting material
(goud turfy loam with a fourth part of rotten
stable manure added) should be rather moist at
the timo of potting ; if it is dry the eyes do not
start well, and it is not a good plan to water
them until the young vines show themselves ;
even then M ater very cautiously. The young
vines are sometimes killed in a wholesale
manner by receiving an overdose of water before
they are established. When the plants have
grown 3 inches or 4 inches, repot in 5-inch or
6-inch pots. The same compost may be used or
the manure may be left out and crushed bones
used instead. As the days lengthen and the
plants increase in strength, the temperature may
be increased. At first 50 degs. were enough ;
when the plants are potted this may be in¬
creased to 55 degs., and by the end of March
to 60 degs., ultimately rising to 65 degs. As
the plants increase in strength they are potted
next into 8-inch or 9-inch pots, and finally by
the end of June or early in July into 11-inch
and 12-inch ones, in which they will produce
their fruit. As soon as put in their fruiting-
pots we had some trellis-work laid over the hot-
water pipes on which to set them ; then they
received a temperature from 85 degs. to 90 degs.
after the house was shut up in the afternoon,
with plenty of moisture in the atmosphere.
The canes were tied up close to the glass, at
least as close as we could get them M'ithout
injuring the leaves. By the end of August or
early in September they were brown and quite
hard with plump budB, as we generally stopped
the leader at 9 feet or 10 feet from the pot.
They never had any manure water, and yet the
canes would be of the strongest description. I
advise keeping them in heat for a considerable
time after the canes Bhow signs of ripeness.
While the leaves are green, the eyes at tne base
are becoming plump ; the incipient bunches are
then being fashioned and prepared for the early
start they are expected to make next
season. Some might insist on turning the
vines out-of-doors to ripen. This ought not to
be done. It is not necessary to turn them out
at all. By gradually witholding water the
leaves will assume the golden tints of ripeness,
and drop off. After that place them in a cool

house, and cut them back to
of rod, say 7 feet or S feet,
started in a few weeks, very
45 degs. to 50 degs. oa a night
enough. A very gentle bottom heat
the buds to start more regularly, but it
bo much ; 70 degs. to 75 degs. would be
cient; more might be injurious. Syrin^
vineB every day with tepid water; this wii
greatly help to promote the swelling of the bads
Apply a rich surface dressing, and also give weal
manure water as soon as the Grapes are
Tying, training, and the ordinary routine of
culture are well known, and need not be fur
dwelt upon here. J. D.

Lord Derby Apple.—We find this
one of the most profitable of kitchen Apples, but
if we have the true variety it does not at ai‘
semble the Hawthornden, and is past its
long beforo Christmas. The trees rarely
to bear, and the majority of the fruits are i
large, conical in shape, and much ribbed,
colour is deep green when first gathered,
this, as the fruit ripens, changes to a rich oi
yellow. It is a first-rate Apple, and oi
be included in every collection.—I.

12269. — Keeping Grapes.— The best W. T
to keep Grapes, when thoy have been ent from
tho vine, is to cut them with as much of the
lateral attached as possible ; before this is
some bottles should be prepared by being
in a Bioping position in a dry, airy room ;
should be nearly filled with clear spring
a few pieces of charcoal being added to keep
sweet ; the stem should be inserted in the T
with the Grapes hanging over. I have cut
Downe Grapes at Christmas, and kept them
until June in this way.—J. V, E.

- This is a question that will now

forcing itself on the attention of many ow
of vineries that have to utilise them for at
plants during winter. After trying various \

I can safely advise '* P. O. S. M to adopt
following, viz. : Cut the Grapes with
branch entire on which they grow, and do i
shorten the ends beyond the bunch, as the fn
cuts evaporate the juices that are required 1
keep the Grapes plump ; insert the base of t‘
shoot in bottles filled with water, and_
them in a dark, dry room or cupboard,
large quantities have to be kept some
similar to those used for wine, may be ns*
but for amateurs, with only a limited qu
a very good substitute is to hang the bottles i
to nails in the wall, and let the bunch proje..
away from the wall so as to hang clear for ths
air to circulate freely around it.—J. G. H.

Nectarines splitting.—In answer to the above ques¬
tion, “ J. D. K. ” advises me to grow non-splitting varieties
and he also gives a list of such, including Lord Napier. I
beg to inform “ J. D. E. " that it is the only variety if
given me any bother in that respect It is to be ref
if it has a general tendency to do so, as it is an c
variety in all other respects.—S. C

The Garden Annual for 1886.—G
pains have been taken to make this very
plete in all ways this year. We believe it
be tho moBt correct and full directory of Bi
gardens, their proprietors, tho nursery and
trades, and gardeners, that can be produ<
such a simple way. Of course there are i
of such things who do not remember that
is such a thing as a death rate; that
change hands, or are not occupied, an<
people also change their gardeners—some
unfortunate frequency. But all who do
quite forget these facts and the other diffii
of such an undertaking will confess that
Garden Annual ” fulfils a want in a s&tisfi
way. The features we most refer to in
notice are: An alphabetical list of _
and seedsmen, florists, horticultural builders,
engineers, and of the horticultural trade gene-
rail;/. The jtrincipal gardens and country scats
in Ureal Britain and Ireland , arranged »n the
order of counties, extended and corrected to datei
Alphabetical list of country seati and garden j in
th> United Kingdom, with names of their owners,
very m uch extended and corrected to date. Alpha-
helical list of head gardeners in the principal
gardens of the United Kingdom , rc-wrtittA
nearest post towns added. This list has
augmented \<y nearly 800 names and addr

GARDEJV'iJYG ILLUSTRATED

FOR BEGINNERS.-H.

Seeds.

ar« several ways of raising plants from
The simplest way is without artificial
Boxes from 6 inches to 8 inches deep are
cheapest and simplest appliances for this.
“ rs* boxes answer well if the bottoms are
ly fastened to the sides. The seeds should
i sown in fine soil, according to the instruc-
on the several packets, and covered with
a of gl&Bs to prevent evaporation. The best
is to sow in pots, and cover the pots with
l-glasses to fit them ; and that is the best way
with expensive seeds, unless a frame or green¬
house is available, but sheets of glass and boxes
answer very well if care is taken to make the
glass fit rather closely. The moat important
thing is a light, nourishing soil of fine texture,
in which the infant root can fiud something to
feed on at once. I watched the behaviour of
some seed sown in fine soil and in harsh, gritty
stutf, both under bell-glasses ; both were sown
on the surface bo that the process of germina¬
tion could be seen. In the fine soil the roots
descended at once, and the skins of the seeds
burst and disclosed the twin seed leaves.
In the gritty soil the roots crept round
and under the hard grains, rarely finding
anything they could penetrate, and most
of the seed leaves never appeared, the whole
substance of the seeds being expended ir
forming a long root, which never reached any
thing it could live on. Withered leaves rotted
to powder, mixed with a little fine loam and
silver sand, is a good soil to sow seeds in. It
does not dry up readily, and strong, stocky
planta are made quickly in it. No plants
should be lost of good things ; therefore, sow
the seeds of such thinly, so that each seed will
make a plant, and no thinning out be required.
According to the above instructions sow early
in spring Pansies, a little later Ten-week
Stocks, Carnations, and Indian and Japanese
Pinks. In July sow Sweet Williams, Canter¬
bury Bells, biennial Stocks, Stock-flowered
Wallflowers, Antirrhinums, and German
Scabious. Primroses, Primulas, Polyanthuses,
and Auriculas can be raised from seed. The
best way is to purchase plants of the best kinds
and save seed, sowing that the moment it ia
ripe. For half-hardy and tender annuals some
kind of artificial heat is required. The old-
fashioned hotbed is a useful applianco, and a
good way of utilising dung while it is rotting.
Zinnias, blue Lobelias, Asters, Phlox Drum-
mondit. Balsams, Salpiglossis, Schizanthus, and
many other beautiful things can be raised for
summer decoration.

Some hardy annuals must be sown where they
are to remain, but many can be raised in boxes
and planted out. Godetias, Clark ias, Tropiuo-
lums. Convolvulus, Silenes, Kaulfussia, Chry¬
santhemums, Lupines, and Larkspurs can be
treated in this way. Navelwort, Nemophila,
Viscaria, B&rtonia, Whitlavia, Leptosiphons,
Saponaria, crimson Flax, and Coreopsis are best
sown where they are to flower.

Plants.

The kinds of perennials a beginner should
purchase greatly depends on the situation of a
garden, and also on the soil. In large smoky
towns, and especially in London, few plants
thrive well, whereas in the pure country air
everything will grow that the soil is suitable for.
Of course there is a gradual reduction of the
list of the plants that will thrive as we near
town. It is wonderful how far the pernicious
influence of the London smoke extends. The
prevalent winds being south-west and north¬
east* the north and south are comparatively
free ; bat travelling frequently to London by
the South-Western Kail way, I notice the native
vegetation begins to suffer and look weakly im¬
mediately Woking is passed. Several plants
disappear, the trees and hedgerows lose their
free n ness, especially late in the season, and be¬
come more stunted and dirty as London is
neared. In winter, with a light north easterly
ibreeze, the smoke and fog come right down to
te New Forest.

Antii'rhimcms are good showy things where
: soil is light and well drained. The named
ids are best: but very good plants can be
from seed. If started in a little heat
will flower the first year; planting out
cely checks them. The dwarf or Tom
' " ' fads make pretty clamps, especially a

Primrose kind with sulphur lip. I have seen
very fair spikes grown in Camden Town.

Perenniil Phloxes are plants of the easiest
possible cultivation. They make a great mat
of roots, and require a good space round each
plant free from anything else. They require
well-worked soil and plentiful manuring. The
best way with them is to strike cuttings all
through the season whenever they can be had,
planting them out iu their blooming places as
soon as rooted. A plentiful Bupply of plants
can in this way be kept up.

Chrysanthemums are grand plants for a be
ginner’s garden, being so easy to grow and
manage. If they are to be grown as border
plants only early flowering kinds must be
selected. The soil should be rich and deep, well
cultivated, and such as the roots can easily
penetrate. It should not be such as will dry up
readily, and should be liberally manured. The
plants should be put out in April and kept grow¬
ing freely throughout the summer. They must
never be allowed to want for water. A good
way of treating them is to have a good heap of
compost of rotten leaves, turf, and old hotbed
manure, and put an inch or more of that on the
beds two or three times during the summer.
The plants will root up into that nourishing
stuff, which will also keep the soil beneath from
drying up. Chrysanthemums in the open ground
should not be stopped, but if large flowers are
desired they may be thinned out to one or two
buds on each shoot. Many kinds have a habit
of producing a strong bud with a distinct look¬
ing stalk thicker than usual, and which at first
Bhows little tendency to lengthen. If side buds
are allowed to grow after this bud is formed,
they run past it and branch into leaves and
flowers, leaving this large bud 6 or 7 inches
back. But if all growth is stopped imme¬
diately, the whole strength of the shoot is
thrown into the large bud, which pro¬
duces a fine flower. Where no bud singles
itself out from the others in that distinct fashion
a good bud may be selected and the others
be pinched oqt. At the foot of a wall facing
south is a good place for Chrysanthemums—a
fence or boundary wall in preference. The
plant seems able to root under that, and find
coolness and moisture there. As an instance of
what these plants are capable of in the open
air, I have cut 151 blooms from one plant of
Christine, leaving some 00 fcuds still to open. I
had about 100 blooms open at once on a plant
of Elaine, every bloom over 6 inches across.
Golden Christine, Beverly, Golden Beverly,
George Glenny, Mrs. G. Bundle, Mrs. Forsyth,
and many others are equally profuse. The so-
called early or summer flowering Chrysanthe¬
mums are a very useful and distinct race. The
best form neat low bushes, many not exceeding
2 feet high. They are most profuse bloomers,
and amongst the very best plants for late
summer and autumn decoration. The earliest
commence blooming in July. The intermediate
section of Pompones, as they are now classified,
are also valuable for the south, as they come in
flower before the earliest of the large-flowered
kinds. The late Pompones are also useful,
although an occasional early winter may set in
soon enough to mar their beauty.

Roses are really beginners’ plants. Nothing
that can be planted in a garden is more easily
understood or more easily managed than a
free-growing hybrid perpetual Rose. Not¬
withstanding this, no plant is more generally
utterly mismanaged in small gardens. Tho
reason of this is inattention to the requirements
of tho plant. A Rose, when planted singly,
should always be a bush. It is usually
planted as a standard. It requires a rich,
moist, deeply cultivated soil, well enriched
with manure, and occasional doses of liquid
manure, up till midsummer. It is gene¬
rally planted in a hole jn&t large enough to
contain its roots, without any preparation of
the soil, a spadeful of manure being immediately
placed over its rosts. It should be planted in
November. It is too often planted in March.
The Rose will not thrive in town smoke ; it
will not thrive in poor, or thin, or exhausted
soil; it will not grow in windy, exposed places
or in deep shade. The place where Roses are
planted should be open, but sheltered from high
winds; the air should be pure, and the soil
Bhould be well prepared before the Roses are
planted. New soil is better than old ; a rich
deep loam is best, but clay will do if thoroughly

broken up and plentifully manured. On thin
soils specially prepared beds must be made of
turfy loam and marl, or clay broken up and
mixed with sand to keep it open. Road
parings and ditch clearings are useful material.
Roses should be planted in November. If the
soil is well prepared beforehand it is only
necessary to dig out holes sufficient to contain
the roots, place the plants upright 4 feet apart,
cover the roots with light rich soil, fill up the
holes to the surface level, and tread the ground
down hard. The roots should be 9 or 10 inches
deep. If the plants are budded plants, whether
standards or dwarfs, suckers should be removed
from the roots by a clean cut with a sharp
knife. These may be easily known from roots
by being of almost equal thickness through¬
out, breaking off short at the end, and
bv being almost destitute of small root
fibres. In February a coat of fat manure
should be placed over the roots, and to
prevent waste of manure through exposure
to the air cover this with 2 . inches of soil.
Throughout the spring hoe the ground when in
a workable condition after rain, working the
manure into the soil. Liquid manure should be
given several times during the summer, while
the plants are swelling their bloom buds, and
after the first bloom is over. It is not well to
cause free, sappy growth on the verge of winter.
Weak so wage, or a small handful of Peruvian
guano dissolved in a pail of water, are good
liquid manures. Pruning should be done in
March. The nature of it must depend on the
varieties grown, and whether the plants are
wanted to produce a great show of flowers or a
much smaller number of blooms of good shape.
In any case new wood should always be grown at
the expense of old, and, whether standards or
bushes, budded plants should be encouraged to
form a habit of throwing up annually strong
shoots from the point where the bud was in¬
serted. Hybrid Perpetuals should be well cut
back, and so should Damasks and Gallicas. Teas,
Noisettes, and Bourbons should not be pruned
muoh, but only thinned, and have the old wood
cut out. Climbing Roses do not require much

J )runing. Chinas should be treated as Teas,
loses are best in a bed by themselves. If mixed
with other plants those plants should be such as
require rich cultivation and plenty of tillage. A
good feature in a small garden would be a Rose
shrubbery. Instead of planting the motley
mixture of Firs, Evergreens, Lilacs, Labur¬
nums, and St. Peter’s Wort, which so often dis¬
figure villa gardens, plant bush Roses of strong
growing kinds. The Old White and Glory of Wal¬
tham, interspersed with strongold Gallicas, forthe
tallest plants ; then Albas, Damasks, and Scotch
Roses ; and, for the dwarfest, Cabbage and Moss
Roses. Such a plantation, if well manured
annually, would form a beautiful feature in the
early summer, and would be as sightly at other
times as most of the shrubberies usually planted.
For garden purposes all Roses should be bushes,
and on their own roots; but as nurserymen cannot
afford to keep own root Roses until they become
large plantB, and yet sell them at the same price
as budded plants, budded dwarfs on free-rooting
stocks should be purchased from the nursery
and well fed. These will produce plenty of
strong shoots, from which own root Roses can
be easily made by cuttings and layers. When
these have made good plants, a permanent Rose
bed may be made with the certainty that it will
increase in beauty every year, in selecting
Roses for a garden bear in mind that the
exhibition of the Rose as a cut flower and
the growth of these Roses for exhibition is a
thing apart, and is as distinct from Rose growing
in a garden as the growth of Grass as a crop
is from its growth as an ornamental feature in
a garden. The best fifty Roses for garden
decoration will not include more than twelve
suitable for exhibition. Exhibition Rosea pro¬
duce beautiful individual flowers, and are grown
for that alone. In a garden we want beautiful
free flowering bushes, of a variety of heights
and habits ; we want Roses to form shoots
near the ground, to cover walls and pillars,
and to ramble about in shrubberies, or
form rustic arches, bowers, and festoons.
A selection of garden Roses should consist of
Provence, Moss, Alba, Damask, and hybrid
China Roses, Bourbons, Noisettes, Chinas, and
Teas, with a few of the strongest growing and
most free flowering Hybrid Perpetuals for situ¬
ations where their ungainly habit of growth

$

4?0

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

will not be noticed. To these should he added
Ayrshire Evergreen and Bonraault Roses as
climbers. The Scotch Roses form round bushes
4 feet high t and should be grown in front
places in the shrubbery and well fed. The
nhootB formed one year flower the next; the
flowers are very sweetly scented, and just the
thing for a button-hole. The dwarf section of
China Roses are beautiful little bushes for beds ;
they look well planted in groups of three or four.

Finks are good plants for beginners. They
are perfectly hardy, but should have a well-
drained position in light soil. The border kinds
make the most show, but the show varieties
should be grown as well, for the sake of their
beautifully marked flowers aud delightful per¬
fume. They may be cultivated along with
l’ausiei in the north, but in the Bouth they will
stand the full sun in summer, which Pansies
will not without going out of flower. Being
mostly rock plants, Pinks require good drainage
and a d ry surface, but they should have plenty of
nourUhingstulf beneath to root into or the bloomB
will bo poor. They should also have plenty of
water in dry weather when rising for bloom.
Carnations are very easy to grow well. A deep
soil of a light character containing plenty of old
powdery manure and a comparatively dry
climate where no damps hang about are the
principal requirements. An open, breezy place
should be chosen, and if the drainage is doubt¬
ful it will be well to raise the bed above the
general level. Border kinds should be grown
to begin with, of which there are now
many fine varieties. Seedlings should also
bo raised in quantity. Carnations are as easy
to raise from seed as German Stocks or Sweet
Williams. The perpetual flowering kinds make
fine, robust, free flowering plants for southern
districts, and have one advantage over the
show kinds in that they can be easily struck
from pipings. These can be taken off iu spring,
and will be well rooted by autumn, when they
can be either planted out or stored in pots for
the winter. A stock of young plants can thus
be easily kept up, and losses avoided in the
event of an untoward winter.

Pansies are among the very beat plants for
beginners. A bed of good light soil should
firat be made. Loam from rotted turf is the
best staple, mixed with Band and leaf-mould.
Very old powdery manure may be used, but it
must be in that state, and not as is used for
stroug growing plants ; if two years rotted, it
will suit. Seedlings are the best to begin with,
and a beginner should have seed of all the
kinds — bedding, show, fancy or Belgian,
Odier’s five spotted, and Carter's international
prize. These give a great variety of colours,
markings, habits of plant and times of bloom¬
ing, so that it is easy to select plants suitable
for a variety of situations, so that Pansies may
be bad all the year round except during frost.

Primroses require the same soil as Pansies.
Good varieties may be raised from seed, and
purchased plants may be increased by division.
The colours are rich and varied, being many
shades of purple and crimson, rose, lilac,
lavender, yellow', and white. These garden
Primroses are even more profuse in bloom thin
the wild kind from which they have sprung.
After planting in proper soil the most important
points of their management are a slight shade
in the heat of summer and a top-dressing
of an inch of rotten leaf-mould in autumn.
When hot weather sets in the leaves of the
Primrose fall down and wither, and from the
places where the leaves sprung strong roots
spring in the autumn. If these roots And de¬
caying vegetable matter about them they root
into that immediately, but if there is none they
try to root into the soil, and get partly dried
up, the previous year’s roots remain, and the
plant is crippled ; the crown breaks into weak
oflaets and hard lumps, and in a year or two the
plant dies. Polyanthus Primroses are very
useful spring flowers. They resemble Primroses
in everything except the fact that their first
flowers are single, like Primroses, but their
latest blooms are in bunches on a long stem like
Polyanthuses. Polyanthuses do well along with
these, but also do well in a heavier soil, and are
less dependent upon leaf-mould for their sub-
sistance. Alpine Auriculas are good border
plants, requiring the same cultivation as Prim¬
roses and Pansies. They, howeve”, prefer a
more open and breezy position. Good plants
should be first purchased, and from these seed

should be saved. The seed of most of the Prim¬
rose family should be sown from the seed-pod,
otherwise it remains a long time without germi¬
nating. Pentstemons are useful for late summer
and autumn flowering. In the neighbourhood
of London they are becoming better known, but
are not so common as they ought to lie. Their
colours are brilliant and varied, the habit of tl*.e
plant is good, and the cultivation is easy, as
they do well in any good, well cultivated and
manured soil. The only drawback to their use
is that they arc barely hardy, so that it is always
safest to keep cuttings in pots in a cold frame
or unheuted greenhouse during winter.

Pyrcthrums are amoDgst the best of recent
introductions into our gardens. They can only
be propagated by root division, consequently
they arc not profitable plants for a small
nurseryman to grow, and are not advertised ex¬
tensively, like things which can be easily multi¬
plied in quantity. They should always, how¬
ever, form part of the stock of small gardens,
os they are easily grown, and very hardy. A
light, rich, well-manured soil is all they require
beyond plenty of water in dry w'eather. A little
liquid manure occasionally improves the bloom.
The leaves are deep green, and much divided,
and jast before rising for bloom the plants
might be mistaken fur Ferns by unbot&nical
eyes. The flower stems rise 2 to 3 feet high,
and people who have not seen them before
always mistake the cut flowers for Chrysanthe¬
mums, aud are surprised at their appearance in
May. Every year new varieties are introduced.
The colours are many shades of blush, peach,
pink, rose, red, and purplish ro 3 e. There are
five white varieties, and several of soft yellow,
yellow and white, and cream and white.

Delphiniums , or perennial Lirkspurs, should
be iu every garden, their splendid spikes of blue
flowers are very showy, and their cultivation is
simple. They should lie planted iu spring, in
the first instance, after which they should either
be moved to fresh places in November, or lifted,
and fresh stuff provided for them to root in the
following year, after which they should be re¬
planted immediately. There are many varieties,
single and double. Elatum, 5 or 6 feet high, is
the tallest, formosum is the easiest to grow,
and very beautiful, lk-lladonna is one of the
beauties of the family, but very likely to be
devoured by slugs. Both I’yrethrunis and
Delphiniums produce a second bloom in autumn
if cut down when the first bloom is over, and
well fed and watered during the summer.

Iris .—Bearded or German Iris are good plants
for town gardens. Their sword-like lines are
effective amongst plants of a different character.
The nursery catalogues contain over a hundred
varieties of the German Flag and allied species,
many of which are very beautiful. In small
gardens apace might be found for a few of the
most distinct of these, such as Florentioa (pure
white), Madame Chereau (white and blue),
Juliette (white and crimBOu), Chameleon (blue
and crimson), Cordelia (violet and crimson
black), Celeste (blue), Dr. Bernice (coppery
bronze and crimson), Sir Walter Scott (bronze,
yellow, and crimson browD), Apollon (sulphur
and crimson), Diana (yellow and maroon
crimson). Hector (yellow and crimson), Orphee
(yellow and white), Albicans (white), Aurea
(yellow), and Fl&vescens (primrose).

Herbaceous Pteonics are large plants which
make a great show in the early summer. Their
bloom is soon over, but their enormous flowers,
rivalling the finest Tea Roses in the delio\cy of
their tints, make them worth growing in small
gardens. A light, rich, well-manured soil suits
them best.

Hollyhocks arc, perhaps, the most stately and
picturesque flowering plants grown in English
gardens. The semi-double kinds are the roost
showy. A light, well-drained soil is the proper
place for them. They require plenty of water
while growiug, a well-manured soil, and occa¬
sional doses of weak liquid manure. I have
known two yoar-old plants reach 10 and 11
feet high and fill a circle G feet iu diameter,
producing side spikes of bloom until late in the
season.

Dahlias are easy to manage, and very useful
for late bloom. They do well in towns. Young
plants may be had for sixpence each in May, so
that there is no necessity for keeping the old
roots, especially as these require to be started
in spring in heat, and cuttings taken from the
young growth, cuttings making better plants

than divided tubers. Plants pat out iu '
second week of June, and encouraged to gr
freely from the first, make a fine a how in
autumn. It is not well to put l>ahUn~s
early, as a frosty night early in June w
cripple them for the season. Dahlias Deco
tall plants if helped with stakes, but it »® W
to grow a few without stakes ia places wr
sheltered from high winds. Without stall
they make sturdy spreading bushes, and Rave
bettor eflect than if run up tall with *11 t
flowers at the top. Some of the einglw Dohli
are very pretty, but they cannot be called go*
single asteraceous flowers. The petals are t*
broad and too few, making the flower altogotH
rather an unhappy medium betwecun Daisy at
a cup-shaped flower like the Japanese Anemoi*
Those who like them will find many showy kisH
to choose from. White Queen is a good fre*
flowering kind, and matches in the aau Auemot
llonorine Jobert in half shade.

Of hardy herbaceous plants, besides tho*
already mentioned, there are very many auitsUx
for a small garden. Evening Primroses are
fine show'y family with yellow or white Horen
CEnothera Lamarckiana is a fine variety of th«
common biennial kind, which grows and seed
itself like a weed in any good soil. I have eeei
the common kind come up every year ia poo
exhausted stuff, in which nothing else wo tilt
grow. Speciosa (white) and Youngi (yellow
are good tall kinds, and macrocarpa (yellow)
and acaulis, taraxacifolia, and eximia (*1
white) are good dwarf sorts. These dwrar
Evening Primroses dislike damp In winter
their flowers are large and Poppy-like,
and the plants neat. Papaver orientals
and its varieties are tine early summer
flowering plants. Their leaves come up ia
autumn and remain green during winter, early
in spring they begin to grow freely, and in April
and May the flowers appear; these are on strong
stalks, bright scarlet, and from G to 9 inches
across. Some varieties have a black blotch at
the base of each petal. After flowering the
plants die down and disappear until autumn.
They may be multiplied by seed which is as
plentifully produced as is usual with Poppies,
and they can also be multiplied by division.
Such strong growing plants Boon exhaust the
soil, which must be renovated or the plants
moved. Papaver nudicaule is a neat growing
Poppy, the colours of which exactly match tho.-e
of the Eschscholtzias, from white through all
shades of yellow and orange to orange scarlet
They do best in light well-drained soil, and repro¬
duce themselves freely from seed Statices, or
Sea Lavenders, are distinct-looking plants whose
flowering resembles in form a salvo of rockets :
from a low tuft of leaves Bpring a number of
stems which produce at the top a cloud of sprays
of small flowers ; latifolia is the largest, and
incana, limonium paniculatn are good kinds.

Campanulas are a useful family of g&rdeo .
plants. Turbinate, carpatica, aud flendersouti
arc the best of the dwarf kinds ; and peraioifolia,
both double and single, aud grand is are the j
best of the tall kiuds. Our native Trachelium ,
is a good plant very amenable to good caltiva ‘
tion. I picked some in the woods bore with
flowers nearly 3 inches long and almost an inch
and a half wide in the undivided throat of the
flower, and no doubt good cultivation would
still further increase the size of the flowert. <

Columbines arc very graceful and pretty^
Aquilegia chrysantha is a good strong yellow,
which is easily raised from Beed, nod holds on
well from year to year. The single and do u bio
white varieties of our native A. vulgaris are
also showy and useful; a flesh-coloured variety *
is chaste and pretty, but the wild blue il
preferable to the garden purples. Kerrnesbia,,
californica, and Skinnerli are good garden
kinds, but the others are scarcely beginners*
plants. Day Lilies (Hemerocallis) are good
distinct plants, making bold tufts of foliag*
They are useful for out-of-the-way places,
they will grow anywhere where they get s little
sun. The soil should be deeply dug before they
are planted, as they spread into large clumps
which remain in good condition for years. Tho
flowers are yellow, or tawny orange. Disticha
fl.-pi. and Kwansa fl.-pl. are good doubles;
flava, fulva and japonica are good singles;
fulva has tho finest foliage. If only one is '
wanted flava should be chosen; the foliage D
not so lar^o in tindiof the others, and the flowers j
are sweet scented, and are set on the stem in a j

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

471

que when cut. One
j I have been able

_ r _consisted of two white

r Spanish Iris and a blue one, two stems
”“*flava, a few stems of Ragged
s-cuculi), a stem of Stitch-
L or two of male Fern, a bit of Oak,
lome Grasses. Hepaticas are beautiful little
ps in early spring, and especially useful for
ring where they are shaded in summer
rees which are bare in winter, and where
i be hidden by something taller springing
They specially like an inch or so of
leaves tucked in about them in
d, with this little attention bestowed
, to be allQwed to grow and spread as
Geura coccineum plenum is a very
dl-behaved plant, of neat habit. It is
free flowering enough to be called
but its red flowers are produced con-
“ j throughout the summer. Many of the
“amily are useful. Lychnis Haageana
t Sweet-William, and gives a variety
Lychnis Viscaria splendens plena,
fl.-pl. are good doubles ; Chalce-
;arcely worth growing. Rockets are
ned plants, requiring high culti-
nd annual renewal of the soil. They
be planted amongst things requiring
culture. Spirasas or Meadow Sweets
things for cool, moist places; if
ewhero they must be plentifully sup-
l water. S. Arancus aud S. Filipen-
l white flowers, and S. venusta and S.

, with crimson flowers, are indispensable.
:k for a moist border would be these :
or Globe flowers, Double Marsh
,’Mimulus in variety, Orchis mascula,
afca and 0. latifolia, Iris sibirica, and
,lis, and Myosotia semperflorens.

\ or TrUotnas are stately plants for
positions. If planted in borders

_ild bo allowed to stand out singly

; dwarf plants, as foliage and flowers are
and make a good group together.
Sunflowers (Helianthus multiflorus
ire useful for autumn, and do well in
vs may be seen from the use made of
the London squares. Sunflowers are
, thirsty plants, qualities which must be
x into consideration in placing the*"

L plants for borders are :—

Fraxinella, Linum luteum, Aster alpinus,
__ montana, Corydslia nobilU, Achillea Ptarmica
Ranunculus aconitifolius plenum. Ranunculus
' 'icauLis, Sedutn spectabile, Scabiosa caucasica
i Anemone japonica rosea, and A. Ilonorine Jobert,
ri^iduin. Rudbeckia Newmannii, Gaillardia
Oentranthus ruber. Gvpsophlla paniculata,
olympicum, Poiembnium Richardsoni,
BluVHOi several species distinct from the florists'
Fimkias in variety with fine foliage: Aster Amellus

S ^rlyml' n Verbascum’ Caaixii,^ \\ ^phocniceum,

rilis. J. D.

(To be continued.)

af.fl.ria.nlam.—Man is essentially onini-
* as shown both by his teeth and by his
al anatomy ; in fact, like the bear, he
_ oron 8 in tropical climates, mixtivorous
©rate ones, and carnivorous in the
Does your correspondent wish
ountrymen to sink to the level of the
shrinking, and pusillanimous Hindoo?
tunately for his argument the brave and

_Sikhs eat every kind of flesh, except

; of cows. How long does he think we should
I India were its 200,000.000 of inhabitants
degraded and enfeebled by grazing, like
— U - J nezzar? As for Mr. Walkden’s dicta
j Scottish and Irish troops, it seems
ncredible that he should, unless wilfully,
the fact that the deeds which excite
admiration were performed after the good
meal ” which forms one attraction of
■vice. Had Mr. W. seen one-hundredth
number of soldiers that I have, and
ved for himself how the pot-bellied,
©•shanked, potato-fed Irishman whom we
j a recruit develops under a generous flesh
; into the brave, active, and dashing soldier
whose doings at Tel-el-Kebir he is good
l to laud, he might have thought twice
i penning his paragraph. The very wisest
st meu the world has yet seen, and the
which, in the survival of the fittest,
i the conquerors of the world have been
aters, aud, I may add, consumers of
“ Prince Consort's Own.

" S e*

Hardening off plants for winter.—
As the most trying period of our winter ap¬
proaches it may not be amiss to remind amateur
gardeners of the advisability of keeping their
stock of plants as fully exposed to plenty of air
as possible so as to harden their tissues, and
render them capable of resisting the greater
degree of cold we may reasonably expect as the
days begin to lengthen, for there can be no
question about plants being able to resist cold
successfully, depending in a great measure on
how they have been treated in the matter of
exciting or checking growth. During the
darkest months of our year, or what may be
termed the early winter months, the less plants
are excited into growth the better, and where a
mixed collection of plants are grown in one house
the best plan is to keep the house freely ventilated
on all favourable occasions, only shutting up
close when sharp frost makes such a proceeding
absolutely necessary, for the majority of plants
in flowers now are those of a half hardy kind
that only need the shelter of a glass roof to
flower them to perfection, therefore avoid fire
heat as much as possible, as a few degrees of
frost, when everything is dry, will not hurt the
occupant of a house with a closely glazed roof
nearly so much as the plan of starting them
into a weakly blanched growth by keeping fires
going before they are really wanted. I may
mention bedding Geraniums as the most
familiar example of soft wooded greenhouse
plants that amateur gardeners have to deal
with, and the treatment that keeps them safe
will answer well for the majority of others.
Now we know that Geraniums, planted out-of-
doors in summer, will defy several degrees of
frost in autumn before they succumb, and the
first to get frost-bitten are those that are gross
and sappy by reason of being planted in rich soil,
or from being drawn up inclose confined positions,
and the last to feel its effects are those that have
been hardened by keeping them half starved,
by keeping them dry at the root, and fully
exposed to sun and air. In large gardens where
bedding out forms an important feature, I have
always found the Geraniums planted in vases
and places most fully exposed to the extremes
of heat, cold, and drought were always the
last to show the effects of frost. Even when
those in beds were quite killed the vase plants
remained fresh and green; therefore, treat
your pot plants so as to keep them as little
excited in growth as possible. Keep the house
as dry as possible, only giving enough water at
the root to keep each plant safe according to
whether it is of a moisture-loving nature or not,
for Cinerarias, Calceolarias, and similar plants
would be ruined by being kept so dry at the root as
is best for the Geranium tribe. Pits and frames
in which plants are being stored for the winter
must be kept freely ventilated, only putting on
covering in cases of very sharp frost occurring.
Look out for slugs, snails, and other depre¬
dators that prey on the foliage, dust with lime
and soot, and keep the soil only just moist
enough to render the plants safe from shrivel¬
ling. At this time of year there is little need
for artificial watering in pits or frames. Have
external coverings in readiness for any emer¬
gency or sadden change of weather, but do not
coddle up your plants and start them pre¬
maturely into growth when they ought to be at
rest, for more harm is done by over than under
protection, and if gradually hardened off, it is
surprising how much frost plants that are
usually called tender will safely resist.—J.
Groom, Gosport .

Unheated greenhouses.— To the ques¬
tion of a “Vicar’s Wife,” I would reply that I am
a firm believer in the cool greenhouse system.
Of course we must determine at the outset
what can and what cannot bo done under the
given conditions. We cannot expect hothouse
flowers in December. We must be content as
soon as the winter fogs and e rr sts set in to say
farewell for the season to Pelargoniums, Helio¬
tropes, Abutilons, et hoc genus vine. But then
see what we have in their place. A cool green¬
house need never be quite without blossom.
Chrysanthemums make it bright all through
November and December, and some late kinds
linger on into January. Amongst these stand
pots of Salvias, Schizostylis with its bright
Ixia-like blossoms, yellow Jessamine, Laurus-
tinus, and Christmas Rose. Let November and
December be damp as they will, a greenhouse
well filled with such plants as these need never

look dull. In January the Primroses an
bulbs come on, and forward pots of Polyan¬
thus, Primroses, Snowdrops, Pansies, and Violets,
which had been waiting their time in the
cold frame, fill up the places left bare by the
removal of the plants whose season is over.
With February the succession increases, and
from that time onwards the greenhouse is always
bright. Has a “ Vicar’s Wife ” rightly under¬
stood what we may and what we must not
attempt in the cool greenhouse? Damp is a
great enemy, still I never find either bulbs or
Solanums suffer from damp, and my greenhouse
is situated in a not very dry part of the not very
dry county of Lincolnshire. If the greenhouse
has a flue, I would advise in very damp weather
to light a bit of fire and set the windows open
in the daytime to air the house. The popular
delusion is that if a greenhouse ever wants a
fire it should be lit at night, when Nature her¬
self teaches us to keep our plants cool. Failing
this, why not get a suitable paraffin stove
(I use Gillingham’s), not to heat, but to air
the house occasionally. My stove is of such a
size that I do not think it raises the tempera¬
ture 2 degs., but it certainly checks the
damp and makc3 the place comfortable. I think,
therefore, that I may fairly call mine a cool
greenhouse, because all that the stove does is
to supplement the action of the sun in very
damp, dull weather. But even if I had no stove
I should still say, “Yes, 1 can get some plants
to bloom at all seasons in a cool greenhouse.”—
A Lincolnshire Rector.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

Primroses. —During the past summer there
has appeared notes in Gardening of the neces¬
sity of watering the Primrose, and this I fully
agree with, as for that attention, be it little or
much, this plant will well repay in the following
spring. If planted close to the foot of a wall,
or in any sunless situation, it will make itself
at home, and if a little attention be paid in the
matter of watering, I feel sure the Primrose
would be thought more of, although it is now
everybody’s flower; but all will have more flower,
and of a very stout erect growth amongst a
dark green foliage, which will be far better
than those left to take their chance, for if we
go to the natural home of the Primrose—viz.,
the woods and plantations, where exist the
shade and moisture they need, we shall find
them growing all the summer, and making up
fine plump crowns for bloom in spring ; hence
it is necessary to water them in our gardens to
meet their natural wants. I may mention this
more for suburban gardens, where they do not
appear so plentiful as they might be. If a
little attention was bestowed on their culture
they would make a lovely show in early
spring. I am situated within the four-miles’
circle of Charing Cross, N.W., and in my case
I planted a few from a window box at the foot
of a wall facing the north-east. This was after
blooming, and there being no ground to waste
I wished to make the best of it. Now, I gave
these several good waterings, and the following
spring my employer was so pleased to see them
in such gorgeous array, that I suggested the
whole length of wall be plauted, wnich it now
is. Through ill-health I went in the country
at the time of their blooming in plantations
near my house, and there got many roots and
brought back with me and planted the length
of wall, which are now well ripened with crowns
as full as a Strawberry plant about to be forced,
and leaves like the Foxglove, more than the
much-neglected Primroses.—C. Me acock, Bcl -
size Park.

Marigolds in autumn.— Marigolds have
been unusually gay during the fine autumn
weather that we have been experiencing—in
fact, they appear to flower on through drought
or rain as if weather proof, and the various
shades of yellow, orange, and striped have this
season come in with striking effect with the
Chrysanthemums, and very few plants used in
the flower garden for summer bedding make so
gorgeous a display in autumn. All that they
require is a more pleasing perfume to render
them universal favourites.—J. G. H.

The Old Double White Feverfew.—
This plant ranks amongst the finest and best of
all herbaceous plants, bu it cm be had in flower
almost at any time of the year. A few plants

472

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

of it lifted and placed in a cold frame a few
weeks since are now really lovely, their white
flowers are as clear and perfect as those of a
small Pompone Chrysanthemum. It is a great
pity that such a fine hardy plant should be lost
through neglect, as when planted it will remain
good tor years. Anyone who may still have a
few roots left would do well to divide them at
once, and pot a few, as it will force like a
Spinea if not given too much heat, or if placed
in a cool house it would be in flower for Easter,
when really good white flowers are often scarce.
—J. F. Sale, Cheshire.

NORTH AMERICAN LOBELIAS.
Great numbers of Lobelias are found widely
spread over the American continent, even in the
tropical parts. Few of them are, however, culti¬
vated, and, from what I can learn, the finer
species are not only confined to a comparatively
small latitude, but are very few in number, a re¬
mark which applies to the perennial and tall
growing kinds. Some of the species from the
hotter parts are well described by Kunth and
other authorities, but if we may judge from L.
Tupa, they would be of little use in our climate;
whilst L. fulgens, L. splendens, and L. cardinalis
arefrom the more temperate habitats in Carolina,
Virginia, and Mexico. After all, though it
would never do to shut the door against new
comers, we are comparatively independent of
kinds that, although good, are yet unsuited for
our use by reason of their tender nature, as we
not only have in L. syphilitica and the kinds
just named the two primary colours in their
most brilliant hues, but they are found to cross
freely of themselves, and thus to afford great
variety.

The following are a few of the most distinctly
coloured species belonging to the more northern
districts—viz., L. syphilitica, a border plant
much admired for its rich blue flowers, which
are abundantly produced in August and Sep¬
tember ; height from 1 foot to 2 feet. It is a
native of Virginia and thrives in a drier soil
than the scarlet sorts ; moreover, it is also more
hardy. Its flowers are numerous and the leafy
calyx distinctly serrated. The segments of the
angular corolla have their edges ciliated : the
flowers are 1 £ inches long and form bold race¬
mes. In Dr. Woodville’s “Botany ” there is a
good engraving of this plant, and some interest¬
ing particulars are furnished respecting its
early cultivation in this country, as well as the
importance attached to it in its wild state by the
North American Indians as a medicine. L. s.
maculata is a variety of it with brownish spots
on the leaves, but to attempt to notice the diffe¬
rent kinds in which the blood of this species is
traceable would be like entering a maze. L.
colorata (Sweet), though brought from America,
is said to be a hybrid between syphilitica and
cardinalis, also between NuttaU’s L. coelestis and
Graham’s L. crispa, if, indeed, they are not
identical. These are fine kinds with deep azure-
blue flowers, that make their appearance in
summer. A white form, too, under the name
alba, iB offered by the trade. Two years
ago I raised from a batch of seed the
following colours : Blues of many shades, rose,
scarlet, and two plants having white flowers ;
all nearly showed the features of syphilitica,
and some were a reproduction of it, pure and
simple* With the exception of two scarlets,
one with a remarkably fiery or metallic lustre,

I considered the seedlings useless, the white ones
most so, for they were scarcely more showy
than a white Dead Nettle. Of the qualities of
alba I cannot speak, having neither grown nor
seen it.

L. cardinalis (the Cardinal Flower) is a very
common plant in Mexico, Carolina, Virginia,
and other States. The two or three scarlet-
coloured species mostly grown have come to be
considered to be pretty nearly one and the same
thing, or at most but varieties. Such is not,
however, the case. L. splendens and L. fulgens,
two old and well-known species, are Doth
distinct from and superior to cardinalis. In L.
fulgens the leaves are slightly rolled at the
edges ; they, together with the stems, are rather
downy. The rich scarlet flowers have more
substance, and the divisions of the corolla are
more acute than in L. splendens, which has to
some extent the features of both of the above, but
may be known by its purple leaves, which are
not rolled like those of fulgens, n< r downy.

There are varieties of it, or, more strictly
speaking, there are other jvarieties, notably a
grand one called Queen Victoria. From the
results already seen in crosses of these scarlet
kinds with L. syphilitica, of which Sweet’s
grand purple L. speciosa is an instance, these
Lobelias are worth some attention from raisers.
When grown in bold clumps they are princely
objects in the latter part of the summer.
They vary in height from 18 inches to 4 feet.
The hardiness of these plants is not such that
they may be set in any garden and left to take
care of themselves in the same way as tall Cam¬
panulas. There may be exceptions to this state¬
ment, but they will be found to be few. Still,
the care needed to keep up a healthy stock is so
small, that those who have seen the dazzling
masses of bloom which they produce in autumn
surely cannot begrudge it. With timely pro¬
tection, roots otherwise suitably planted may
be kept in the open ground year after year.
But in Yorkshire we have another difficulty
perhaps not encountered by our southern
friends. Notwithstanding that the base shoots
make a very early start, the flowers are often
too late to be fully enjoyed, and they get cut by
early frosts. So far as my experience goes, the
double object of preserving stock and getting
the flowers a little sooner is best gained by

Flowers of Lobelia cardinalis (small) and L. splendens
(large); both natural Bize.

potting strong crowns early in the autumn ob¬
tained either by division or cuttings rooted
early in summer. In a cold frame these will
probably go on making new roots all winter, and
if put out in April in deeply-tilled quarters,
such as those for Dahlias, they make a grand
and early display.

All the roots may be preserved in the open
ground if desired by placing coal a^hea several
inches thick over them. These have been said
to be of little use, but they will be found to be
otherwise if used early enough. The base
crowns become very proud, even in autumn, and
by the time frosts arrive they have well-
developed foliage ; therefore to cast a weight of
ashes on these crowns at such a stage cannot be
helpful. They should go on as soon as there is
the least sign of sprouts on the surface, when
they will not only give protection, but give it at
the moat fitting stage of next season’s growth,
and will, moreover, act as a beneficial check.
Neither do I like to cut the old stems from off
such plants of doubtful hardiness. The ample¬
ness of these will afford some shelter, and I have
fancied that the weather let in by the cut, hollow
stalks has something to do with root decay. It
is a mistake to plant these Lobelias in damp,
sunless quarters. They certainly need moisture
in summer, but deep tilth is a desideratum.

J. W. K.

12262.—Single Dahlias.—The best way
to treat these is to sow the seeds in February
or early in March in a gentle hotbed. As soon

hold

as they are well through the j
should be potted off singly in sma
potted again in 4-inch or 5-inch pots,
end of April or early in May the pla
be put out into cold frames, where
gradually become inured to stand ont i
the lights. They ought not to be plante<
the open until quite the last week in ]
early June. Seedlings from the double
ties or plants propagated by cuttings of
or selected kinds should be grown in f"
way.—J. D. E.

12200 —Creeper for thatched
Clematis Flammula makes a first-class
for a roof. We have a summer- hou
16 feet long, with thatched roof lat
front and doorway in the centre, at oi
which we have two Honeysuckles, a Hop, t
a Clematis Flammula. They run up the I
and entirely cover the roof, which has 1
mass of bloom the whole autumn. The <
being the strongest grower, monopoly
whole roof with its myriads of small,
sweet-scented blooms. Here and there <
of Hop or a few blooms of Honeysuokle
out above it, and add to the beauty and f
effect. We fix some strips of wire i
the thatch for the Clematis to lay
prevent its being blown down.— W.

12113. —TropgBOlum tuberosum.-
plant has flowered freely with me for th
three years. I take up the tubers
foliage has died down, and plant then
of sandy soil, and put them away in a cool p
out of the reach of frost. In April I plant t
where they are to bloom. By that time
have made bunches of white fibrous roots, i
all the eyes are plump. They at once com
to grow. They require very rich soil and j
of root moisture. Thus treated
rapidly and commence to bloom in i
They have been and are still a sheet of 1
enclose a bunch of the flowers. They i
seeding this season, which they never did 1
1 should have said when the tubers are p
in the sandy soil they should be kept
dry till planting out time, as if kept moist 1
would make premature growth.—M. D., T
eo. Wicklow. [With this communication (
some very fine sprays of Tropaeolum tu‘
laden with brilliant blossoms;—E d.]

12254. — Plants for centre of bed -
Searlet w’ould be a good centre, and a go
scarlet is the semi-Cactus Dahlia Fire King, a
it is a constant full bloomer. If a single flow
n preferred, Scarlet Defiance, Rob Roy,
Gracilis elegans would be all good floi
Well grown, strong plants of Gaillardia
would make a fine centre, and contrast*
with the light blue of the Agapanthus. If
white or yellow centre was desired, Dahli
W r hite Queen or Lutea grandiflora (yellow
might be used, or a compound of those colo
in Mrs. Reginald Upcher. Scabiosa atropurpu
w ould also form a fine rich dark centre.—J.
Lancashire.

12230.— Lily of the Valley.—The

has become too crowded, the plants caz
flower through want of light, and probably b
reasou of exhaustion of the soil. Now is
good time to make a new plantation. The i
should be deeply dug and well worked,
with it some rotten manure, or if thi
done, a top dressing of dung should be given i
spring. Plant the strongest crowns toget*
setting them about 3 inches apart, which
allow* them room for several years, for Lilies
the Valley flower best when well establi *
providing they get enough food, air, and 1
-J. C. B.

-These have exhausted the soil. Take up the roots at

once, remove some of the old'soil, and replace it with
pood, rich, friable loam, or garden soil with a fair portion
of well-decayed manure. In this plant the roots in clumps,
pressing them firmly in, and covering them over about
3 inches in the same soil. An annual top-dressing of rich
lea'-mould should be given.—J. P. f Lancashire.

12?33.— Honesty. — The seed should bo sown the latter
end of March, as then the plants get a ong season of growth,
and flower strongly the following spring. It is a good plan
to sow where they are to bloom, allowing quite <3 inches
between the plants, as Honesty does not transplant well.
If transplanted let it be done as soon as the plants have a
pair of rough leaves.—J. C. B
Lily of the Field.—My experience of Sternberg*
is that it is very shy as regards flowering, while the
both in f

lutea
variety angustifolia,

i the form of

clumps, flowers with great profusion under f
same condit.onc. i irouiti 18 i arefore reoomi
obtain this narrow-leaved variety, which i
lov ili lew si s ri to rsaimn - 1u \ l

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

473

WW&

-

mm

,f ■--!v

0mm

mm

LUSTRALIAN TREE FERNS. indebtedfor the great bulk of the most decorative ticularly straight-stemmed Alaophila australis,

'Gil a few of the temperate region "Tree of them to the mountainous regions of Australia, native of the Stuart and Gawler ranges,
diich now are frequently seen in our cool where, as is clearly shown in the accompanying ^e Alsophila Cooperi, the stem of which is
*tories and winter gardens come from illustration, they grow thickly in deep, dark, slender, very straight, and totally deprived of

renn parts of the globe, situated even so
:ly apart as Mexico, China, and South Africa,
r production is not by any means limited to

d countries just named on the rjoTitrarv, we are

■sk :.. - - V A ’ V ^

shaded ravines, or in naturally and constantly i icrial roots, completely distinct in that respect
damp valleys, where they attain very large from any other known areorescent kind, found

_:_ TLT__1 .1 J.L . rri_ T7I_ C 3 _ . 1_ 3 _- A__1_ 3 _1 1L. 1_ 3 _

dimensions. Nor could the Tree Ferns of I in abundance in Queensland, and the handsome

Australia proper, that is to say, the par-, Dicksojia Voungiin, from tho Blue Mountains

o

474

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

and Liverpool range in New South Wales, par¬
ticularly remarkable on account of its rough,
slender stem and its long, plumose fronds,
borne on stout stalks, furnished with light
brown hairs, be kept apart from those of
Tasmanian and New Zealand origin, as they
not only succeed admirably under similar treat¬
ment, but are likewise often found scattered
over the different habitats just alluded to.
However productive of Tree Ferns other parts
of Australia may be, it is undoubtedly in
Victoria, a natural grove cf which district
the annexed illustration represents, that those
possessing the most imposing proportions are
found. Thcro Dicksonia antarctica grows to
a height of 60 feet or more. Its great
height is not, however, the only quality
which recommends it as the handsomest Tree
Fern known ; the symmetry of its noble
head of ample fronds, and its massive trunk,
are also striking features belonging to it,
as may be seen by the fine specimen in the left-
hand corner of the illustration. Victoria,
however, possesses no monopoly in the way of
forests of this fern, as Tasmania, or what for¬
merly used to be called Van Dieman’s Land,
which is only separated from the Australian
continent by Hass’s Straits, has also a great
share in the production of this Dicksonia,
especially Mount Wellington. In both places
the habitats of the Troe Ferns are so damp
that they seem to be enveloped in perpetual
miBt, an assertion borne out by the fact
that most of the trunks imported into this
country are cither partially or totally clothed
with the little Hymenophyllum rarum, and
the equally diminutive, though exceedingly
pretty, Trichomanes venosum, both species
which could not possibly luxuriate under
any other atmospheric condition. The hardi¬
ness of Dicksonia antarctica is surprising; it
has been even found with its head heavily laden
with snow. Notwithstanding this, however,
its culture out-of-doors does not seem to have
met with any decided success. Besides ant¬
arctica, New Zealand might also claim the
possession of the Silver Tree Fern (Cyathea
dealbata), a kind with large fronds, which,
owing to the silvery colour of their under¬
surface, are very attractive. C. medulUris, a
gigantic Tree Fern, with stalks of a beautifully
ebony-black colour, and C. Smlthi, an arbores¬
cent kind with very delicately divided fronds.
Also Dicksonia squarrosa with a very slender
stem and fronds disposed in a nearly horizontal
position, D. fibrosa, which seems only a crisp
form of D. antarctica, and the less-known
Dicksonia lonata—all natives of New Zealand,
where they form the bulk of the forest vegeta¬
tion as regards arborescent Ferns. S.

ROSES.

Gloire de Dijon. —Amongst old favour
tea of our gardens there are scarcely any that
enjoy such a deserved reputation as this, for it
is unquestionably the most continuous bloom¬
ing Rose we have. During the present month
of November I have seen this Rose both on
standards, dwarf, and especially on walls, in ex¬
cellent condition, of that lovely creamy white
for which it is so much prized, and I can safely
say that no other wall climber is so extensively
used in the southern counties as this. Many of
the oldest houses have overhanging roofs, and
nnder the shelter of these the lovely clusters of
delicately-coloured blossoms are now to be seen,
ooking more like .Jane than November, and
anyono making additions to their list of w'all
plants should always include this excellent old
Rose in their list, for if it only gave us this
beautiful autumnal display it would be well
worthy of a place, but when we find it pro¬
ducing its wealth of blossom at least nine months
of the year one need not wonder at the extra¬
ordinary demand there is for this Rose, which,
although grown by the thousand, is seldom left
on hand at the end of the season.—J. C., Hants.

12265 —Poses In pots. —See my answer to
No. 12273. Plant in a pot or tub, if a suitable
border is not available for the purpose. Isabella
Sprunt is one of the best for forcing for buds,
and Niphetos is one of the best for pots : often
snowy white, but it cannot be c&llea a climber,
nor wduld I plant Isabella Sprunt for this pur¬
pose, ar., there are others more suitable for
to ng and robust rods for training on
^^WWtcrs cf greenhouses, &o. Marshal

Niel, Climbing Devoniensia, Cheshunt Hybrid,
and any of the Gloire de Dijon race would do
well, and give satisfaction. The new Bourbon
Rose, Madame Isaac Perriere, would, I think,
also succeed well inside.— William Walters,
Burton-on- Trent.

12286.—Planting 1 Roses.— Of course this
should now be completed as early as circum¬
stances will allow of. In any case the plants
should be “ heeled in” immediately on receipt,
as if allowed to bo exposed to the wind, &c.,
dryingthe roots, serious mischief mast take place.
It is most important to have the roots properly
protected during transit, and in no case allowed
to get dry. Even in planting take one at a time
from the bundle, and do not expose all to the
air. I am convinced many failures may be put
down to neglect of this simple and at once
apparent precaution. It is absurd to see how
some persons expose the roots of Roses, Ac.,
to the wind, forgetting, as they do, that the
fibres are of a most delicate nature, and should
be treated as carefully and kindly as possible if
any success is to follow removals. Providing

Hayton” took care to ** heel ” his Roses in for
the few days between receipt and when per¬
manently planted, there will be no occasion to
feel uoeosy ; but if allowed to take their chance
for four or five days, with drying winds getting
to the roots, I fear failure will be his reward
for the neglect of the simple precaution 1 have
endeavoured to explain.— William Walters,
Burt on-on-Trent.

12273.—Roses for greenhouse wall.—

The following would be very suitable, viz. :—
Marshal Niel, Gloiro de Dijon, Climbing
Devoniensia, Reine Marie Henriette, Solfaterre,
and, in fact, almost any of the strong growers
amongst the Teas and Noisettes. Plant at once
in a prepared border, inside the house, or, fail¬
ing this, use a large pot, box, or tub, taking care
to have plenty of cracks for pood drainage—a
most important matter. Obtain good pot plants
to start with, having strong shoots several feet
tang, and, with proper treatment, success will
be assured.— William Walters, Burtoh-on-
Trent.

12222.—Roses tor greenhouse wall.—
No time better than the present. If it is an
outside wall with a fair amount of sun, Duke of
Edinburgh (crimson), Boulo de Neige (white),
Madame Gabriel Luizet (pale pink), AimeVibert
(white),Gloire de Dijon, and crimson Boursaults
would be good Roses to select from. If an in¬
side wall, any of the abovo except the B mrsaults,
with Marechal Niel (yellow), Cheshunt Hybrid
(cherry carmine). Climbing Devoniensia, La
Marque (lemon). Lady Mury Fits william (rose),
Reine Marie Henriette (red Gloire de Dijon),
and Reve D’Or or Bouquet D Or (yellows), may
be selected from.—J. P., Lancashire .

12285.— Potting Rosea.— There is scarcely any risk
incurred in diggintr up Rosea that wore planted last year
and potting them in 10-Inch pots. With good manage¬
ment not two plants in a hundred would die.—J. D. JE.

1237®.—Pot Roses.— II the pots are planned in the
open ground they will most likely ha filled with earth¬
worms, and in heavy soil this system is a bad one. even if
precautions can bo taken ta-koep out the wonns. Cocoa-
nut 8bre refuse is by far the best material in which to
plunge them. Llirht ashes or leaf-mould would be suit¬
able. Bracken itself stuffed firmly amongst the pots would
answer.—J. D. E.

-The pots will not break if sufficiently covered with

litter or ashes. Plunge them, if possible, at the foot of a
wall or hedge facing north or cost, os there they will not
be so liable to become ovprwet at the roots. In any
bury tho pots quite 2 inches deep.—J. 0 B.

12234.—Rose cuttings.—Keep them os they are until)
the middle of March, sheltering them in some way from th'
heavy rains and bard frosts, and then, if they have root
either pot them into small pots, using a loamy soil, or pla<*
them In the open ground 0 inche* apart. Do not let
soil get dry through the winter. They would do very w-ll
in a cold apartment until April.—J. C. B.

its. The ..resent weaff “ vc . r > favourable f

TREES AND SHRUBS.

Garrya elliptica.—This elegant, Hrdy,
evergreen shrub is now an objeot of much btereat
where fine specimens of it are laden wito long
and slender male catkins, hanging on all sides of
the bnsh in graceful profusion. There are cer¬
tainly very few hardy shrubs that can compare
with this for elogant beauty, and o»e cannot
conceive any winter flower more charming than
this is for vase decoration. The quiet, greenish
colour of the catkins, need only to be relieved by
a few sprays of some attractive flower in order
to make a most tasteful arrangement. This
Garry a is perfectly hardy, bat it likes a dry.

sheltered spot, as sharp frosts
the catkins. It is an admirable object for ^
ing a* wall, being green all the year rou» ^
in winter, attractive in the way of bffl
several weeks at a time. The commoir* M |
this shrub is the male, the female, avliJ 1 *
attractive, being rarely met with.

12209.—Soil for Rhododendron"

is by no means absolutely nece?s:*r^ ,r
(lodendrons ; thev will grow in any I*®*
except pure sand and clay, and wh < * oe8 E
contain mnch lime. If you can
loamy soil, road parings, or aor“ m ?.
similar nature to mix with your I*
will be able to grow Rhododeodr* vef X ," e
Decomposed garden refuse and J * moal41
serve the same purpose.—J. C. I
12264. - Propagating JttpelopBi
Veitchii.— I find the present 1C
year to put in cuttings of
the shoots of the current ye J ! gjosvtt 1 *
cat them in lengths of abo ® mcne*,
insert in sandy soil in pots or oxe3 » *5

in an unheated house or frarr* tce P\“S the
moist; but do not attempt excl *f ST°^
until the days begin to le vke P’ when the
will soon start into growth.^ ky
of May will be ready for p^ng on smgly inu
3-inch pots. Keep them i*®* g^ aBa n “ tl .
rooted, and gradually inui^em to plenty o
air tying tho young grow to stakes ; ana
in Jane they may be plu e( * jn
in the open'air. They v. ? n ® P lan ‘ s h *
the autumn, fit (or p!a ‘ n 8 »S a,a * t "“H* °. r
trellises, for which purf e *“*7 are we ^ 8U, * e< k
G., Hants.

12270.

not dilfic-...., „

the tice to a Cbnsiierobl^ePjk:/halted
well under the ball of roo * he l * paU *"

the few feet it is intend®* removed•». D. L.

12215.—Shrub for ^
is nothing better thou* 11 *

better In-dgo than any 10 * rir+n

thoroughly break the ■> ood bef ‘ jrti

adding plenty of mc'.WienaitroDa, full «rowth will toe

made and a hedge qv^y for ™ ed * P° 'J** ''ZZll iTofter
In March and April.

planting, giving a ^ of water no* and then ,n

spring and early au» acr if dry.—J. C. B.

HOUSE <Sc /INDOW GARDENING.

1 2260 _B6 on ^ a fuohflioldes. —It was

wrong to c- the P lftnt ha . ok j n , autumD ’ **
when apian * 3 cut root action italmost comes
to a stand * 11 . ^af growth and root activity
being recital. Therefore, when any plant u
cut back i' autumn, the roots, many of thorn,
arc apt trperish in winter, and the roots of
Begonia uchsioides arc very susceptible to
injury G 1 that can done.now is to water

only who dry through the winter, and about
the endof April work away as much of the old
soil as ossible and replace in a pot which jail
comfo'^bly contain* the roots—using loam
two-prt 3 , leaf-mould one part, with a liberal
addi<mof white sand. Water very moderately
at fi*t, but more liberally when growth is beiog
f re »y made. Give plenty of air in Bummer to
tho the wood becomes firm and ripe. Another
tiie when you want to cut a lanky plant bock

so about the beginning of April, and do
v>t until new growths are made.—J. C. B.

Aralia Sieboldi.—This is one of tho
hardiest and most enduring of plants, and out
that will stand in draughty or otherwise un¬
favourable places longer than most other*. Its
bright green foliage is always pDasing : ; nd
cheerful ami easy to clean, a syringing freeing
it from all dust. It is therefore just the plant
for rooms and halls and other positions in dwell¬
ings, and the wonder is that it is not more
grown for indoor decoration than it in, especially
in towus where gas is so injurious to Ubs hardy
plants. The green variety should ho raised
from seeds sown in heat, where they soon come
up, and if potted singly and grown on in S-inchor
6 inch pots in a cold frame, they make useful
plants in a season. Although the variegated
variety seeds freely when it blooms, most of ths
pi Ants raised from seeds come up albinos and do
not live ; the only way by which that kind is
increased is by means of cuttings taken off with
a heel, which if then put in sharp sandy soil,
and placed uuder a handlight in a cool and
damp place, nac-u rc-nt and start into growth,—

S. D.

UARBEjYIjYG ILLUSTRATEI)

475

INDOOR PLANTS.

8 PATHED CALLAS.
HAYisoread the very instructive article on the
Arum fanily in Gardening, I venture to direct
attention \o a double form of the common Cali tv
( Richardia mthiopica) that is occasionally pro¬
duced, but vhich no one seems capable of per-
fcing as a distinct form or variety. A few
ago I vas fortunate enough to obtain a
specimenof a double form of the Calla with
three more orless perfect spathes, one enclosed
within the other, and had a very faithful and
correct engraving made from a photograph of it
to use in the botanical Index. The engraving
(which is here reproduced) shows two perfect
white spathes of the ordinary form, one enclosed
within the other and nearly encircling a third,
but imperfect, spathe, which scarcely rises above
the funnel-shaped throat of the first and second
Bp&thes. This inner spathe was of the purest,
ftshnost transparent, snowy whiteness. The so-
called bloom remained in perfection three weeks
before it commenotd to wither, in December
and January. Immediately after the number
of the Botanical Index containing the above
notice was issued we leceived information from
several American correspondents that one of
their plants had also produced similar abnormal
forms. Bat no plant that we could
hear of ever produced the double form
of spathes more than once, and 1 never
knew of anyone succeeding in ripening
the seed from these forms which would
be most likely to perpetuate the form.

I might say that my plant from some
unknown cause rotted during the next
few months, but we succeeded in grow¬
ing a quantity of plants from the bulMets
taken from the sides of the old tuber ;
they, however, all produced, when
grown, single spathes similar to those of
the ordinary cultivated form.

L. B. Case.

lliclunond , Indiana , U.S.A.

then the cuttings are inserted as thickly as
possible without undue overcrowding (from' six
to ten in a pot is a good number), and when all
put in they receive a thorough watering. The
pots are watered on the bench, and when
drained placed in one of the close cases on the
bed of Cocoa-nut fibre. This precaution is
necessary in order to prevent damping; other¬
wise if watered in the case and allowed to stand
there the atmosphere might get too surcharged
with moisture for success to be the result. The
after treatment consists in taking off the
lights each morning to examine the cuttings,
being careful to remove at the same time any¬
thing decaying.

Water and shade when necessary, os cuttings
of so succulent a character are very sensitive as
regards both dampness and strong sunshine. In
about a fortnight they will be sufficiently rooted
to allow a little air to be given, and it should be
increased day by day till the light or lights are
removed altogether, when soon afterwards they
must be potted off. Want of success in striking
Bouvardias is in nine cases out of ten the result
of using cuttings other than the very young
shoots. Petunias are struck in just the same
way, but they are even more sensitive as regards
excess of moisture than the Bouvardias. These
latter can ba readily propagated by means of
root cuttings, and by some this method is

PROPAGATING BOUVARDIAS
AND PETUNIAS.

Neither Bouvardiasnor double Petunias
require to be plunged in bottom heat to
cause them to root. In spring they
■trike readily enough without it; in¬
deed, too much heat would cause them
to damp off. We propagate ourB in the
following manner : In a small house
kept at an intermediate temperature
some air-tight cases like small frames
are placed on a bed of Cocoa-nut fibre,
beneath which run hot-water pipes ; the
heat from the latter rising through the
fibre is just sufficient to maintain a
healthy growing atmosphere, but it can
in no way be regarded as bottom heat, for
the fibre is pressed down closely and the pots
of cuttings only rest on the surface. Regarding
the question of plunging cuttings of this class
when callused, I may say that under favourable
conditions they root in spring without forming
anv callus, or at all events only a slight one,
and roots are not pushed from it alone, but
from all parts of the stem. By far the greatest
point to be considered in propagating such
plants is obtaining good cuttings.

About the end of January we take our Bou¬
vardias, which have had a slight rest since
flowering, into the propagating house, and
place them on the side stages, stock plants of
Fuchsias, Petunias, Heliotropes, and similar
subjects being also taken there. With the
increased temperature and occasional sy ringings,
the plants at once start into growth, and when
the young shoots are long enough for cuttings
they are taken off and put in pots of light sandy
eoiL, when they root in about a fortnight. It is
unnecessary to take the shoots off at a joint, as
they strike equally well from any part of the
■tern, provided the entire cutting is of recent
growth ; should, however, juBt the bottom part
be of a woody character then they root only with
difficulty.

We use 4-inch pots for the cuttings, filling
one half with broken crocks and the
th soil, consisting of two parts peat or
Id to one each of loam and sand, the
passed through a sieve with a i-inch
■oil is pressed but lightly down;

Double spathod Arum Lily (Calla).

preferred to any other. In my opinion, how¬
ever, cuttings made of the shoots are best.

A.

Lapageria rosea.— Along with this I have
sent a shoot of Lapageria, containing eleven ex¬
panded blooms, forming a cluster. Few things
deserve a more extensive cultivation than this
Lapageria, owing to its longevity and duration
of bloom hanging after they have expanded. It
requires no pruning whatever, save cutting away
the worn-out wood ; hence the necessity of
encouraging growth to the utmost, whether the
plant be in a pot or planted in a border. Disap-
pointmentoften occurs with amateurs concerning
its well-being, as it generally comes to grief time
after time, so that it makes no progress for years
successively, thus overtaxing the patience of the
grower. In order to avoid this, let his regard
For the plant be equal to the instinct of the slug
in finding out the young Bhoots when they first
make their appearance, especially those that
spring up from the bottom. Well-nigh to a
certainty, to his astonishment, he will find it had
been visited by one of these unwelcome guests
during the night hours, if not guarded against.
To prevent this annoyance, a very simple means
will render as a protection, by removing the
bottom of a glass bottle, or the chimney glass of
a lamp put over it, gradually filling it with dry
sand as the shoot pushes its way through. This
last need not be exercised unless there is a strong
suspicion of their harbouring about, especially
if the soil is at all moist. Once the points of

the shoots are nipped off, the growth for the
season is retarded. Lapageria alba forms a
good contrast if grown together. A few hints
respecting cultivation may interest some of the
readers of Gardening Illustrated. Lapagerias
may be easily increased by means of layers.
First of all provide the number of pots required,
from 4 inches to G inches diameter, according to
strength of shoots intended to operate upon.
Secure a good drainage, about 2 inches deep,
three-parts fill the pots with prepared compost
of fibrous peat, a little turfy loam, and a good
sprinkling of sand. Then take a matured
shoot, leaving about G inches beyond the part
operated on to draw sap ; remove a portion of
wood and bark about 1 inch long underneath the
part to be layered ; or force the point of your
knife through the shoot Bideways, put a small
peg in the gash to keep it open, or avoid the
knife altogether, and peg down the shoot. In
course of time the buds will swell and emit
roots, but not so readily as the former plan.
Whichever way is preferred, peg them down
firm ; add another inch of soil over the part
layered, thus completing the work. In due
time the top part will begin to grow, and another
shoot will be expected to force its way through
the soil. Keep moist to promote growth. In
any case do not sever it from the parent till
growth has ceased and the young wood matured ;
or, if the plant is not wanted particularly
at the time, leave the juncture for
another season, till the plants are
crammed with roots ; then you have a
plant that will make a good start at
once.— J. Jones, T!u Gardens, Penylun,
near Cardigan.

A greenhouse without plants
in pots. —One is so accustomed, wheu
visiting different gardens, to find green¬
house plants growing in pots, that it is
an agreeable change when one has an
opportunity of seeing them treated
otherwise—that is, planted out in open
beds ; when treated in that way they
are so much stronger, better developed,
and far more healthy than when con¬
fined to pots. In a garden near Kelso
the planting-out system is well carried
out. The house is only a small one,
being 11 feet by 9 feet. It is span-
roofed, the sides being G feet high, and
glass to the bottom. No artifioial heat
is applied, except during very severe
frost. The first plant to attract atten¬
tion was Hydrangea Otaksa, a bush
G feet high, and %% feet through, bearing
nine heads (each 15 inches in diameter)
of pure white blossoms. Lapageria rosea
was simply charming, its racemes of
rosy wax-like flowers being very abun¬
dant. Fuchsia corallina, trained up
one of the pillars, was in full beauty.
Another plant which I was pleased to sec
in full bloom was Pleroma sarmentosa, the
blossoms of which are de6p brilliant Gentian-
| blue in colour. Of Daphne indica rubra
there was a very fine bush, but not in
flower. It w r as, however, easy to imagine what
it would be when thickly furnished with its
lovely sweet-scented blossoms. On one side of
the house a Laurustinus was in full flower, and
very well it looked, its growth being totally
different from what it is when grown out-of-
doors. These were all planted on the ground
level, and amongst them were to be seen various
species of Ferns, rare and somewhat tender
bulbs, and other plants which served to give to
; the beds of earth an interesting appearance.—
; R. P.

Winter-flowering Carnations.— Those
who may be able to cut Carnation blooms through
! the winter will undoubtedly feel themselves well
repaid for the care and labour bestowed on the
plants through the summer. With the exception
t of the Rose, no flower is more generally useful
than the Carnation at this time of the year ; it
is the best of all flowers for button-holes and
sufficiently robust to last a long time fresh out
of water. Young plants yield the finest blooms,
and are, I think, more manageable than old
specimens, but in order to have them in good
condition by winter they must be propagated
early in the year. Healthy, well-rooted plants

S ut into moderate warmth in a light house iu
anuary will produce good cuttings by the inidd lo
j or latter en l of Match, Theee strike freely

47(5

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

enough, and if hardened off and gru vn along
liberally through the Bummer will become well
established in G-inch pots late in autumn ; er
they may be planted out in well-stirred ground
in May, lifting and repotting again in the first
week of October. American trade growers grow
them very largely in this manner.—J. C. B.

White-leaved Geraniums.— Some time
ago a correspondent wrote to say she had a
Geranium producing white shoots, and asked
whether it was possible to perpetuate the
variety by cuttings. I havo looked in vain for
any answer, as it is a thing I have often tried
to do, but found the white shoots always rotted.
Wo had a seedling, Bearlet flowers, green leaf
with white edges, of which the original plant
had two shoots, white stems, and white leaves,
with a roso-coloured horse-shoe on them, and a
ii w of the young plants sported in the same
way ; bnt although the parent retained its white
shoots till Its death at about ton years old, we
could never get any of them to strike. 1 should
very much like to know if your correspondent
has been successful with hers, and what method
she adopted.—A. B. T., East Anglia.

Cornflower (Gentaurea). — In the para¬
graph under the abovo heading in Gardening
of the 15th inst., the common Corn Cockle is
described as Gentaurea cyanus. On reference
to Deakin’s “ Florigraphia Britannica,” which I
presume will be accepted aa an authority in
such matters, it will be Been that it is the
Cornflower (or as it is sometimes called the Corn
Bluebottle) that is the Centaurea cyanus, and
that the Corn Cockle iB Agroaternma Githago.
—B.

12229.— Alooasias, Clerodendrons, and
Dipladezrtas. —These require in winter a con¬
stant temperature of 55 dogs., keeping them
only just moist at the roots. In a structure
where there is one end warmer than the other
the Alocasias should be placed there, GO degs. by
day not being too much for them. Clerodendrons,
on the contrary, will do very well if the tem¬
perature drops to 50 degs. at night, as this quite
goes to rest in winter. In January these should

cut back to two eyeB of the wood made this
summer, and when new shoots are 2 inches long
they may, if root-bound, be shifted. If in pots
already large enough give weak liquid manure
occasionally when growing.—B yflket.

Variegated-leaved Begonias under
stages. —I have had a kind of fernery made
under the stages in my greenhouse, in front of
the pipes, but not covering them. The edges are
made with virgin cork, with which the upright
supports of the stages, and also the edges of the
stages, are also covered. Amsng this rustic
work are Ferns, Ficus repena and variegated
Begonias of the “Ilex” section. These do
wonderfully well in this position, and form
immense leaves. The original variety thrives
the best. I was induced to try BegoniaBln thiB
position from noticing in books of travel that
they were described as growing wild in damp,
i-hady places. The ihermometer in my green
house often falls to 40 degs. in winter, and some
times to 35 degB.—K.

12244. — Begonia Rex. —The cause of the
foliage turning rusty was probably defective
root action brought about by unsuitable soil or
injudicious watering. Begonia Rex likes a
warm, rather moist atmosphere when making
its growth in spring, and is by no means a plant
for a cool greenhouse. If you have a tempera¬
ture of about 55 or GO degs. from March to June
you may grow this fine-leaved Begonia very
well, bat not without. From now on 50 degs.
will be enough, and only just enough water to
keep the soil moist should be given. About the
middle of March shake away as mueh of the old
soli as possible and replace in a pot just about
large enough to contain the roots, using fibronB
peat with plenty of white sand in it. Be care¬
ful only to water when the soil is almost dry,
giving a light position with shade from the sun.

12278.—Olerodendron not flowering.
—Probably caused by want of maturity in the
wood. Clerodendrons require to bo pushed
- along into free growth in spring, bringing them
iuitP a cool®* and dryer atmosphere about the
tu&^of June. During late summer and early
nutttfcm they should get plenty of air, and only
\© B^ded from very hot sun. Winter in a

umpewture of from 50degs. to 55 degs., giving

only water enough to prevent shrivelling. In
the beginning of January prune back the strong
shoots to about two eyes, watering with great
care until veung growths push ; then if the pots
are free of roots shift into the next size pot,
using loam two parts and peat one part, with
slenty of white sand. Keep the plants in a
ight position, encourage growth by syringing
once or twice a day in hot weather, and water
freely when the pots are getting filled with
roots.—J. C. B.

— By the description it is probably Clerodondron Bal-
fouri. In that case the plants should be rested in the winter
by being kept dry at the roots, or, at least, comparatively
so. The plants should not be cut back very close. They
flower most freely when they are encouraged to make
good growth in the late summer mouths, and when these
growthi are cut bock very sparingly. —J. D. E.

12240.—Campanula garganica and fragllla—
There is not much difference in the growth of these two
species, which are nearly related to each other, the latter
having pale blue flowers, whilst those of garganica are azure
blue with a white eye. Uottyire good kinds for pot culture,
doing very well suspended in a light window or on a
window ledge.—J. C. B.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK,

are now opening, or have already «
blooms, and very pretty and sweet
These elegant and useful plants
trouble, so cheap, and flourish so will ai
where, that they should be grown by all
have a house at all. If they have been at
forced, it is much better to remove tbjm iot
cooler position or house, just before the flow
expand, as they will come finer and last lon^
than if allowed to open in heat. Ordinary
Hyacinths, Tulips, &c., that were potted and
plunged some time ago, should be brought in*
doors as soon as the pots are well filled with roots
and the crowns beginning to grow. If required

Glasshouses.

Zonal Pelargoniums. —At no season of the
year are these so useful as in the winter. A
groat number of new varieties make their
appearance, yet, further than having large
individual flowers, with possibly an infini¬
tesimal difference in the shade of colour, many
have little to recommend them. The doable
kinds possess the merit of lasting longer than
the single sorts, the petals of which fall much
sooner. For general purposes the bright red or
scarlet, with the pink and white colours, are
most useful. During the winter season the
individual flowers are finer and the colours
better brought out where a considerable amount
of heat h used, but under such conditions to
enable them to stand well when cut, the plants
require to be kept with their heads close to the
glass, and have air admitted continuously
through the day, and in the night aa well,
except when the weather is severe. When
treated in this way the plants will bear much
more heat than is usually supposed, producing
a proportionately greater quantity of flowers.

Greenhouse Rhododendrons. —There has
been recently a number of fine kinds raised of
the R. javanicurn race, possessing more or less
the character of flower which that species
exhibits ; the colours run through the different
shades of yellsw, with light and dark pink, red,
and crimson. One of their good qualities is
that with little warmth they can be had in
flower almost any time through the winter,
when, in addition to their merits for conservatory
decoration, the flowers are useful for bouquets’
This race of Rhododendrons, though good
growers, are not so vigorous as to outrun the
space at command oven where the glass accom¬
modation is limited, and on this account they
deserve a place in small gardens. They do not
require much pot room as compared with many
hard-wooded plants.

iMANTorHYLLUM.s.— Though these plants will
thrive if kept continuously in a greenhouse,
they succeed very well forced, and where there
is a sufficient stock, it is well, with a view to
keeping up succession, to put a plant or two in
heat every three weeks or so, by which means
there will be some in flower almost continually.
The cool end of the stove or forcing pit, or any¬
where where they will receive an intermediate
temperature, is better suited to them than a
strong heat. They are plants that do not soon
out-grow reasonable limits, they divide readily,
and moderate-sized examples are of more
service than larger ones. Big plants may be
broken up after they have done flowering just
before growth commences, reducing them to
one, two, or three crowns, keeping them in
small pots as compared with snch as are required
for many things, and although when restricted
for root room in t his way, they do not increase
quite so fast, sti l, they bloom just as freely.
Successional plants that are wanted to come in
later should bo kept comparatively dry at the
roots and quite cool. There aro now a number
of fine varieties raised from seed, the flowers of
which are marked improvements upon the older
forms.

Hyacinths and Tulips. —The earliest lot of
Roman Hyacinths, if they were potted in good
time, and havo received even a alight warmth,

Mignonetto in pots in a cool, airy place, and as
close to the glass as possible.

Pelargoniums of tha show and fancy sections
must be kept almost dry at this season, p

larly if in a low temperature ; zonal* _

rather more water, but still should bo rather
dry than too wet. The beautiful varieties i
Epacris, which do well in tjwna aa a rule, i
now advancing rapidly intc flower, and should
have a light, warm position, and a fair supply
of water to assist the proper development of the
blooms.

Cinerarias for Bpring flowering will now, or
shortly, need potting in 41-inch pot*. Many
amateurs find them apt to “go off” suddenly
after thi9 operation, bni if the plants are kept
airy and cool for a fow weeks beforehand —

“ hardened off” a little in fact—well watered
before potting, and kept close and slightly warm
afterwards, with a moist atmosphere, and but
little water at the rrot until well in growth again,
very few losees wi’l be found to occur.

Flower Garden.

At this time of year when the floral display
out of doors is reduced to a minimum, increased
attention should be paid to keeping all parts of
the garden scrupulously clean. The Grass, if
kept frequently swept and rolled, looks even
better in winter than in Bummer, and with
evergreen trees and shrubs that come more
prominently into notice after deciduous trees
are cleared of their foliage, there should be no
lack of interest even during the shortest days
of the year. Some of the earliest flowering wall
climbers are already expanding their blossoms,
the bright yellow Jasminum nudiflorum being
one of the first, and it is a most continuous
bloomer, for if cut off by severe frost tha
first break to mild weather brings with it
a fresh supply of gay blossoms. Christmas
Roses, too, are fast coming into bloom. All
kinds of spring-flowering plants and shrubs in
bods that have been recently planted will new!
the soil to be pressed areund tneir stems as soon
as it is dry enough for the purpose ; and any
Pansies that are likely to be broken bad better
be be pegged down firmly. Keep mice from
attacking Crocuses and other bulbs by trapping
them. Stir the surface soil of the beds lightly
and pick off decaying foliage.

Beds and borders.— These may be dressed,
manured, and lightly forked over while the
weather is open and mild. In the pleasure
grounds we are planting all beds that do — L
form part of the regular flower garden in
way. Single isolated beds, or pairs by the
of walks, or in sheltered recesses amongst chol
shrubs, afford a congenial home for plants that]
do not like annual removal. We find that the
Primroses make excellent edgings, also alpine
Auriculas, GentianB, Pinks, Hoteia japonii
Saxifrages and Sedums, and many other dw;
plants, the centres being filled with Phloxes,
Antirrhinums, Carnations, Roses, hardy Heaths,
and dwarf-flowerings shrubs, and amongst three
bulbs flourish extremely well, dwarf Aconites,
Scillas, and Dog’s-tooth Violets being used for
mixing with edging plants and tall lJlies, a»»d
the hardier kinds of Gladioli in the centre*.
Where forking cannot be done without dis¬
turbing the roots, a top-dressing of w^ell-decavcd
manure and soil worked evenly over the suiface
under the foliage of carpet plants will invigorate
them for another year's blooming.

Roses. —Those that were planted last month,
if not already done, should have a mulching of
partly-decayed manure to keep the soil about
the roots and lower parts of the stem from
getting froun, Where the tender Tea kinds
ore to be wintered out-of-doors some light pro-

gardening illustrated

4 77

3 placed over them on the first
vere frost; to do them justice
ie protection of a wall, where
? on famishing blooms for cutting after
kinds are over. The pruning of
•etter be deferred until spring ; but
the beds and lightly forking it in
> done at once. Roses like good rich
manure, and any beds that are gettin
r exhausted will well repay lifting air
hly renewing the worn-out soil, and
\ a little deeper than before. Dwarfs
Uy benefited by such treatment.

Vegetables.

available inch of land should now be
er, and where manure is required use
I find from many years’ experience
' rmyard manure is still the best for
yoses. If Globe Artichokes are not yet
d, delay that operation no longer. My
grow on each side of a long walk,
quite as effective as many sub-tropical
therefore in this case we combine the
with the ornamental. We are now sow¬
ing Rhubarb, Asparagus, and Seakale. We thus
the stock well to the front, so that we
ye plenty on hand. Mint, Tarragon,
i (the latter in great use here) will now
due attention. Of these we have a
1 stock outside ; therefore the trouble of
g in a few boxfuls is not great. Keep a
sharp look-out for mice on the early Pea border,
old “ brick and stick ” traps we use here,
consider them the best. Directly you
__ young Peas coming r up cover them an
thick with sifted coal ashes, which will
keep off mice, and protect them from cold sur
winds. Beans, of which we like Green
the best, shonld now be sown if not
dy done. Young Cauliflowers expose fully

-xcept in Bevere weather, shutting them

j evening.

Is Sprouts and Kales will, after severe
, be the better for having the old, decayed
cleared off, both to admit air to the
and to get rid of the disagreeable smell
emanates from such decaying matter,
ang plantations of Cabbage should be earthed
and be carefully guarded from slugs and
by dustings with lime or soot. Cauli-
and early Broccoli should be lifted
they turn in, and be “ heeled in ” in
Itered spot, and protected with mats
weather. Plots of Spinach should
> the soil occasionally stirred ; on light open
this crop never fails ia winter, but it is a
ii crop on heavy land ; hence the desira-
of frequent hoeing or “pointing over.”
shonld be finally earthed up when the
it is dry, and protection provided for
i weather. Hurdles or mats, resting on
sticks, laid over the ridges, form a handy
do of protection. Potatoes may now be
‘ ed in frames ; for these a bed of Oak leaves
i the moBt congenial bottom-heat, as also
Carrots and Radishes, and though top-heat
>ipes saves a lot of covering up, by this
>f heating Potatoes are so apt to develop a
r growth of haulm, and consequently an
r crop of tubers, that preference should
en to growing them without top-heat
i that produced by the bed of leaves ;

outside linings to frames will be
also thick coverings over the glass

BARBERRY BLIGHT.

: The annexed illustrations showthe foster plants,
whereon tho spores or seed of the fungus (Pnc-
cinia graminis) settle themselves and take root
in the spring of the year. The spores would
quickly begin to germinate on almost any moist
leaf in a humid season ; but no other leaf yet
discovered offers the required advantages for

its for screen. —I have a garden at
ise which fronts the street, and is divided
i open paling fence. I want to plant some-
inside fence that is hardy, and will form
ge (something that will grow thick and
t quickly, and that will stand the London
. e, Ac.) to screen my garden from being
rlooked from the Btreet. Any information
as to the best thing to plant, when to plant it,
md where to obtain it will be esteemed.—A. M.
Oot>t>ett’s Indian Corn. —It may interest
5 of your readers to know, at a time when
ntion is being drawn to Maize in a green
is a material with which to fill silos, that
» this year ripened the above Corn on a
i niece of ground at the rate of thirteen
to the acre, the grain being much finer
any in the market. I make no deduction
i this fact, but I may add that I have never
1 to ripen thisCorn in the West of England
u—F. Fane, Moyle* Court, Ring t rood.

Fig. 1.—Blighted leaves of the common Barberry.

the minute spores to engraft themselves, except
that of the common Barberry, aud no other fruit
than that of the Aquifolium. In spring, when
the spores issue in myriads from old straw,
thatch, and even half-decompossd manure heaps,
they no sooner fall upon the surface of the above-
mentioned plant than the small roots take hold
of, or rather engraft themselves into, the leaf

I'

Fifr. 2.

Fruit of B. Aquifolium.

and fruit. Being nursed there, in
a short period, say from fourteen to
twenty-eight days, they become
matured, throwing oft' spores as
numberless as the sand upon the
seashore. Such of these spores as
by chance fall upon softer-strawed
Wheat plants, favoured by a moist
atmosphere, quickly reproduce
abundantly other spores of aBlightly
different character, such as will
germinate and mature upon other
Wheat plants, and thus they con¬
tinue to vastly multiply until the
summer is far advanced, always,
however, requiring moisture to aid
their germinating powers.

Now when autumn arrives, the
most interesting process in the re¬
producing powers of the fungus
takes place ; for did the mildew on
the W heat plant continue to dis¬
pose of the same kind of spores only
at the expiration of the summer,

< as it had hitherto done, they would
surely die in the winter season, totally unable
to withstand the ungenial temperature of an
ordinary English winter. But all * 1 * * 1
-rrided *

Fig. 8.
Bliphted
blade of
Wheat.

tifully prov

_ - But all this is beau-

for by Natui*, for a different

spore of seed is now produced, called by
botanists the “ resting spore,” aud this will
remain upon the Wheat straw throughout the
most severe winter, clothed, as it were, in a
warm raiment proof against the most severe
frosts. Upon the advent of the following spring
they grow out countless numbers of seed, many
of which may perhaps alight upon the young
blades of growing Wheat, but in vain, for they
cannot mature there. Such, however, as settle,
as I have before observed, upon the leaf of the
common Barberry (Fig. 1 ), or upon the fruit of
B. Aquifolium (Fig. 2) that abounds in our shrub¬
beries, quickly grow, and reproduce a multipli¬
city pf seed. Some of this floats away on the
air to our Wheat crops, develops itself upon the
blades of Wheat (Fig. 3), and continues to pass
through the same routine from year to jear,
causing incalculable loss, not to the husband¬
man alone, but to the country generally.

J. W. R., in Farm and Home,

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 460, J

About Seeds.

As the future blossom and fruit ia laid up in
the bud of the fruit tree during the previous
year, so also to a large extent the character and
quality of the crop is stowed away in the seed
iu the case of vegetables. When we consider
that most of our cultivated vegetables have been
evolved from wildlings, by cultivation carried
on during a loDg series of years, and by a
constant selection of the best as the seed
parents, we shall begin to understand the value
of breed and pedigree, and the importance of
selection. Bad seeds are dear at a gift. I
do not mean, by the term “ bad,” seeds of weak
vitality only, as sometimestheso seeds may have,
from the absence of care in selection, a good
deal of the wild original blood in them, and
may grow with great luxuriance. All things in
creation, as I understand it, are either improv¬
ing or degenerating. There is no standing still.
Things either get better or get worse, and it is
only by constant efforts that the ground already
won can be held. Thus, in the grounds of the
seed grower who understands his business, every
plant comes under the close scrutiny of the
manager, and every improvement in character
is noticed, aided, and cultivated by every pos¬
sible means. This is how improvements are
effected, and the varieties of established merit
are kept quite up to the mark. Besides the
improvement derived from this source, patient,
persistent experimenters are trying, by inter¬
marriage, to effeet a similar result. The man
who selects a Pea from amidst a field of Peas,
and saves the seeds, is simply taking advantage
of Nature’s work, w hilst the hybridizer does the
work himself. And after the latter has effected
his cross, and saved the seeds, he then has
to select, and perhaps after all there is nothing
but disappointment. The work of the hybridist
is not an absolute certainty ; but still anything
which is followed up steadily does, sooner or
later, yield tangible results. But the reason I
have referred to this matter so fully is to con¬
vince my readers that it is impossible to sell
good seeds which have been carefully selected
so cheaply as those on which no particular care
has been bestowed, and instead of the low-
priced seeds being cheap they are probably very
dear. But no matter now new and good seeds
may be, all will not grow and produce plants.
If wo count out a hundred seeds, and sow them
under the most favourable circumstances, we
shall not have a hundred plants. In the case
of Peas, Beans, and other large seeds which can
be sorted by hand, and all imperfect seeds taken
out of sample, it is possible that from 90 to
95 per cent, may produce plants ; but with small
seed 8 from 75 to SO per cent, is a very good
growth. When in store, seeds should be kept
dry and cool. If thero be moisture and warmth,
mildew or fungoid growth may grow on them,
and the seeds may swell and burst the cuticle,
and the vital principle perish. I have often
been asked the question, “How long will seeds
retain their vitality ?” and it is a very difficult
question to reply to satisfactorily, as so much
depends upon how the seeds are kept. If kept
in a dry and cool room, seme seeds—Melons
and Cucumbers, for instance—will retain their
vitality . Icr^j lime, 7. do ncl ’emu tt*\t Ai \j

478

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

limit has or can be fixed, but certainly seeds of
the family named have produced healthy plants
when considerably over twenty years old. But
age is no advantage to seeds. Perfect ripeness is
necessary, but age beyond that is no advantage.
All the Erassica tribe will keep a number of
years with but little deterioration ; but even in
this case, in my experience, after the first five or
bix years the number of plants raised from a
given number of seeds rapidly decreases, oven
when well and carefully aept. The seeds of
Carrots and Parsnips should be new, or not
moro than two years old. But whether the
seeds be old or new no one should sow them in
bulk till they have been tebted in heat. The
way to do this is to select a certain known
number, say a hundred, haphazard from the
stock, and sow them in a flower pot in some nice
light soil, and place the pot in a hotbed, or in
some warm place, watering with chilled water
when moisture is required, till the seeds
germinate and the young plants appear. Seeds
may be sown and placed in a warm room with a
square of glass over the top of the pot, if no
better means are at hand.

Seed Sowing.

Having obtained good seeds, we should be
▼cry careful how we sow them. There is an old
proverb or maxim which says, 11 Sow thick and
thin quick.” But if we have tested our seeds
and are sure of them, why should we waste them
by sowing too thick! Besides, thick sowing is
sometimes a very great evil, and there is always
danger in the practice, for if Beeds are sown
thickly the least delay in thinning injures the
young plants intended to be left. To a certain
extent, perhaps, the maker of the old maxim
was right, as it is well to have a power of
selection, and we cannot have this power
unless more seeds are sown than are needed to
furnish plants to occupy the ground, but very
thick seeding must be wrong. Anyone who works
among, or who observes things closely, will soon
see that some plants are much stronger than
others. Take a bed of young Carrots and look
at them closely ; some plants are twice as strong
as others, and if a strong plant and a weak one
were allowed to grow on side by bide the weak
plant would never overtake the strong one.
This, in thinning young plants in spring, is an
important matter. 1 have seen men thinning
crops in spring, taking no thought at all of this
characteristic, but simply pulling up the plants
indiscriminately, without any reference to
strength or size. It is very certain that care
lesaness in this matter may load to great loss of
bulk of crop, especially with root crops ; but
the same principle runs through all things, and
the cultivator should understand, and be pre¬
pared to take advantage of, the power to
influence the bulk of crop which selection gives.
Ingardencultureseedsshould never be committed
to the laud when it is in an unfit condition. In
the short articles upon the different vegetables
which will follow this, the best times to sow and
plant will be given, but it should be understood
that everything should be subject to the condi
tiou of the soil. Better, far better, to wait a
week or longer to obtain a good tilth, than sow
in an ungenial bed. In dealing with cold,
heavy land the crop often dorives very great
advantage if the seeds can be covered with a
light, suitable compost, which should be pro¬
vided for when the autumn clearing-up takes
place. Our usual plan is to save the best of the
charred material, which is not likely to have
any living seeds of weeds in it, for covering
small seeds in spring. All seeds should be sown
in drills, because of the advantages the plan
oiler a for surface stirring and cleaning, and
seeds in drills are so easily covered. As
regards

The Proper Depth of Coverino,

This is one of the subjects which cannot bo
definitely stated. The naturo of the soil, the
season of the year, and the size of the seed will
all have some influence. Seeds sown early in
the season should be covered very lightly. Peas,
for instance, planted in Janaary, may be sown
on the surface, and have 2 inches in depth of
the warm surface soil drawn over them ; but
Peas sown in May will do better at the bottom
of a trench with 3 inches of soil over them.
Turnips, again, sown in spring, should be sown
in shallow drills; but in hot weather in Jane the
drills should be deeper to give tin roots of the
plants a ehvioe to *t? ia* d >'vi oU. the moist

soil below. If the land has been well prepared
the very smallest seeds will easily posh through
a quarter of au inch of light soil, though in
many cases less than a quarter of an inch will
suflioe.

Saving Seeds.

To a limited extent this is probably done in
all gardens—as in the course of time every
verson has some favoured pi ant which he thinks is
setter than other people's, and in order to retain
it he must save seeds. Very great care is re¬
quisite with theCabbage tribe as they are so easily
hybridized by insects, and the seedlings would
be useless. Therefore only one variety or
species of the Braasica family should be
allowed to flower at the same time, if seeds
are to be saved, unless they are some distance
apart. But having saved seeds from a good
b train of Cabbages or Brussels Sprouts, if they
are kept carefully they will last several years.
There is some advantage in this, as then we need
only save seeds from one kind in one season.
In saving seeds from such things as Beet,
Carrots, or Turnips, first of all select one or two
handsome roots, and save seeds from them,
sowing those seeds much later in the season than
customary when one sows for a crop, and trans¬
plant these in spring for producing seeds. A
much better crop will be ootained in this way,
and they will be quite as good and true as if
saved from the selected roots themselves.

Transplanting.

Sometimes it Is au advantage to sow where
the plants are to remain such things as are com¬
monly transplanted. Such a many-sided busi¬
ness is gardening that it is never safe or wise to
dogmatise. In a dry, hot summer Cauliflowers
and Lettuces on some soils are best sown thinly,
and not transplanted, but iu a general way re¬
moval does good. There is no doubt, I think,
that a plant allowed to remain where the seeds
drop does acquire greater strength than if the
tap root is destroyed by removal. But with the
majority of cultivated plants the destruction of
this tap root is a beuefit, because it leads to
the production of an immense number
of fibres, and increases the feeding capa¬
city of the plant. And in most cases early
maturity is of so much value that even if trans¬
planting was not in itself a recognised benefit
lit would be well to do it for its forcing effect.
Transplanting most things hastens their life's
work. A transplanted Cabbage or Cauliflower
or Lettuce comes earlier to market than if not
transplanted. Instead of the plant having only
one main root which descends perpendicularly,
it has a number of smaller roots spread out
horizontally near the surface and well within
the influence of solar warmth. Transplanting
fruit trees occasionally keeps them in a healthy,
fertile condition. Most flowering plants are
much benefited by transplanting, in some cases
the period of flowering is quite changed by trans¬
plantation. Take the case of the Russian Violet.
If allowed to remain long in one spot it flowers
only in spring, but bring it under a regular
system of cultivation which involves annual
transplanting and it becomes an autumn and
winter bloomer. Shrubs iutended for winter
forcing must be frequently transplanted to build
up the requisite fertility of blossom buds and
fibrous roots to support them. This, then, I
take it, is the general etfectof transplantation—it
hastens fertility in the fruiting and flowering
plant, and shortens the probationary time of
the vegetable. There are, of course, some
things to which transplanting brings no benefit
iu a general way, but which under special con¬
ditions and circumstances it does help. Take
the caso of the Potato. If we save seed from
a choice variety we sow it in a pan or box, and
when strong enough transplant the seedlings
with great care, but the transplantation of
Potatoes forms no part in the general system of
culture adopted bythebestcultivators. 1 mention
this, and many other things which occur to me,
in the way of elucidation, to show how elastic
gardening, and the rules and laws which govern
it, are, and I might add, should be. It is not,
and never can be, an exact science. The con¬
ditions under which gardening are carried on are
too inexact and changeable for that, and in
some respects gardening wonld lose much of its
charm if the desired result could be obtained
by the same means everywhere.

Cropping tub South Border.

No matter how small or badly situated ike

garden may be, there must be an
where vegetables and salads may
and their growth hastened. It is an
if this border can have a sheltering
such as a wall or a hedge or a bed of si
if nothing of the sort is available, mal
fence with some stout laths, and line it
straw or reeds; so valuable is early prod
every necessary effort should be used to
it. Having marked out the site in a
situation, if needful a drain should
under, in very cold situations, where the a
soil was a cold heavy clay, l have known it
to take out the soil 18 inches deep, and place
a layer of brick rubble and stones. \V hen
bottom ia made dry and comfortable the
the border can be improved gradually, as
can be found. The surface should posseea
fall to tho south to catch the early au
which is so valuable to the early struggling
Burnt earth, the sweepings from the
shed, and other sundries, in the way
and ends of composts, should be reserved
early border until the soil is a yard deep,
then it will grow anything. Plants g
on a shallow soil, if the situation be d
warm, soon suffers for want of moisture,
it ia absolutely necessary that the early
have depth of soil. Among the early
which are indispensable, and which
obtained too early, are Peas, Potal
flowers, Cabbages, Horn Carrots,

Lettuces, and Radishes. Tne rows of Pi
come at intervals of 12 feet or so.
people sow first in November, and in shell
situations there is not much risk ran on a
dry site. I have discontinued sowing
flowers in August, preferring to sow’ about
end of November on a Bhelt near the glaai
one of the houses, pricking the plants off
single pots when large enough, still kee
them in a gentle warmth near the glass,
harden off and plant out about the end of
and beginning of April. Plants raised
way never bolt, and there is a degree
Uiuty about them which no other system
and, as each plant is kept in a pot by
there is no check when planted oat. c
Beans may bo raised in pans or box<
planted out when the woather settles. L<
if need be, can tie raised in a box In heat,
planted out when large enongh.

Lettuces are obtained in this way, and
further hasten such things, as OArly
Carrots, or Turnips, &c., the earth u w
taken out and the trench filled with
manure, the soil being replaced, ami the ao
sown. A good deal may bs done in this v
where the necessary judgment and core ar
coming. If we have plenty of hot
manure, in January open a trench, 3 or
wide and 2 feet deep, fill it in with
manure, tread it down, and re-turn all tho
Boil.

As soon as tho earth gets warm son
Carrot seeds, and cover the bed wit**
thickuessea of fishing net. There is a great
of warmth in a covering of old fishing nets,
than many people imagine. Tho BUtne
will secure early Turnips or Potatoes,
border may be thought too valuable f
Cabbages, but a very early spring Cab]
always appreciated, and a week in p
earliuesa is worth trying for. One of the
kinds, such as Atkin's Matchless,
planted about a foot apart each way.
small bed will suffice. The rows <

Potatoes may be hooped over, and be
with mats sewn together, so as to be drawn
and off quickly. Canvas would fl
same purpose. Radishes and small
be located in nooks and corners. If birds
mice are troublesome among the seeds,
them with red-lead ; they will not touchy
then, and there is no application easier to
apply, or less costly. The seeds aro pound
into a basin dainpod slightly with water, and
then tho red-lead (a dry powder) is scattered
over them, and the seeds are stirred about Ull
each has taken on the coat of lead and bos
become dry. They are then in a fit couditfiH J
for Bowing. As fast as tho early crops are *

cleared ofl, summer crops will follow. such as
Tomatoes, New Zealand Spinach, Vegetable
Marrows, Cucumbers, Capsicums; hi
as Basil end M: k rjoiMici. The bordi
never be idle, and as far as nowil
i o'a ri >a jk >u Id he k spi.; lip.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

BROCCOLI FOR WINTER AND SPRING
Hotw It hst and dt o the fact that names have
>een largely added to the list of winter and
aprmg Broccoli during the past quarter of a
century, the gain to cultivators has not, with
tne exception of two or three varieties, been one
ii any great value—a circumstance much to be
regretted, because the season for Broccoli is
capable of being extended at both ends. We
want more hardy varieties than Veitch’s Autumn
Oi&nt and the Walcheren in order that we may
reJy upon them from November to the middle of
Jan uary. For the spring we also want more
nstwortby sorts to fill up the gap between the
spring Broccoli and early summer Cauliflower
with a greato* degree of certainty than now
exists. We also require an improvement in the
JiADit of some of the varieties ; they are much
too long-legged and deficient in the number of
leaves to protect the flower. In the case of
many varieties, their vigour is out of all pro-
tion to what is required to furnish heads fit
J he „ 8tron g growers in question,
Wrih their thick fleshy stems, are the first to
suffer m a severe winter. Those who know the
variety called Miller’s Dwarf, which has been
long in cultivation, will, I think, agree with
_a that it is a good type of the sort of Broccoli
Which we want. It grows very close to the
id, the stem rarely exceeding 9 inches in
it, and it is furnished with an abundant
-—Tage, which is capable of protecting the
heart and stem from as much frost as these
plants are ever likely to be subjected to when
unprotected. If the work of selection is set
about in a proper manner by those who have

■ time and opportunities, I see no reason why a
new race of Broccoli should not be introduced
^' oaId combine close sturdy growtli witli a
sufficient number of leaves near the heart to

voters 111601 Pr °° £ a11 but the 8eve rest

The varieties for winter use are
| -£he only reliable sort is Snow’s Winter

\ bite, which is as self protecting as any kind we
have, and the flower is beautifully white. It
fry be had sometimes in good condition in
iber, but the early part of January is its
.J season. The Sanaown Broccoli, which
save on tnal for the first time this season,
▼ea to be an inferior strain of Snow's Early,
izance makes a capital succession to the last
'«d, coming into use early in February. I
upon the Penzance as a very good selection
Adam s Early White ; in many points it is
f'l^uw to it, but it comes into use two or
" weeks earlier. It is, however, rather a
ite variety, and is one of the first to suffer
hard winter. It may be well to remark
none of the winter Broccolis are fit for
except m mild weather ; all of them suffer
in exposed to frosty weather. In making a
Selection fob spbino ose the choice of
- is not at all restricted, at least, as regards
*» » doubtful if more than half-a-

distinct kinds could be had out of the
. jnde of supposed different varieties. Plac-
them in the order in which they come into

spring supply should be made about the middle
of April. We allow these to stand rather
thicker in the seed-bed than the others, because
early in June we draw out as many of the
strongest as are required, and transplant them
6 inches apart in another piece of ground, where
they remain until finally planted out. We like
to get the plants in their permanent quarters
by the middle of July, but as space is restricted,
we are bound to wait until sufficient ground is
vacant. I am satisfied, however, that the sooner
they are planted after the middle of July the
better heads they produce, and the better able
are they to stand against severe frost. I do
not think it necessary when the ground is in
fairly good heart to dig and manure for Borecole,
for it grows just as well in ground that is so
firm as to require a crowbar to make a hole to
receive the roots. Broccoli is a crop often
crowded under the mistaken notion that just as
good heads will be obtained under such circum¬
stances as if the plants had plenty of room.
This, however, is not the case, for the thicker
they stand on the ground the weaker they
become, and as a consequence the heads will be
small. Moreover, the plants get drawn and
are the first to suffer from frost. If a planta¬
tion of Broccoli is examined after a hard winter,
more live plants will be found in the outside
rows and at the ends than in the middle ; this
shows plainly that the more room they have in
reason the hardier they are ; 2 feet apart each
way is a very good distance at which to put them,
but 30 inches would be better. J. C. C.

a,uu \ eircn s Model ; as &
variety the last named is worthy of its
je. It is quite as late as Cattell’s Eclipse,
6 superior to that sort on account of its dwarf
and the excellent colour of the flower. On
s than one occasion this variety has kept up
our supply until Cauliflowers came in for use.
Ft vg m o re Protecting isequal to Model as regards
colour, and is somewhat earlier, but more lanky
I m erovrth. It comes very near my idea of what
i Broccoli should be. For small gardens I
select Chappell’s Cream, Frogmore Pro-

-J* ant * Model. As regards

ChTLTTVAT 10 ^, two distinct sowings should be
ie. The varieties should, when prac-

bl®, .bo raised in the open ground, as plants
_j raiaed are more hardy and shorter in the
? than those brought up under glass. The
of Snow’s Winter and Early Penzance
be sown on a warm border early in March,
uld be sown thinly all over the bed, and
-'ants come up too thickly they should
ned out, so as to obtain shortJegged
* " ' 5ao ® ot h*d *,hc,7 stand

, S< virgs f< r the
*

12232.— Cauliflowers clubbing:. —This is
very common in old gardens. The best remedies
are deep trenching, so as to bring fresh soil to
the surface, and applying lime, and soot, and
good rotten stable manure, so as to strengthen
and renovate the soil, and destroy the grubs
that cause the clubbing. When planting throw
aside all plants that have club roots. Some
recommend cutting away, or removing the grub
from the ‘*club; but the remedy is very un¬
certain, and the plants seldom turn out worth
the trouble. Promote quick growth as much as
possible.—J. P., Lancashire.

Early Potatoes. — Where the earliest
kinds of Potatoes are grown so as to get them
fit for use in the shortest time after planting, it
is a great advantage to have the sets well pre¬
pared by starting them in gentle heat, so that
they may have dwarf sturdy tops and a good
mass of roots ready to lay hold of the soil
directly they are planted. I find shallow boxes
such as are used for bedding Pelargoniums to
answer well for this purpose, filling them about
half full of fine leaf-mould, and laying the sets on
it in a single layer. They soon form a quantity of
roots ; if kept near the glass the tops will be
dwarf and sturdy, and when planting time
comes they will lift with a mass of roots, and
will repay the attention bestowed them. After
trying a good many sorts I do not find any to
beat the true Ashleaf Kidney for frame culture,
or Myatt’s for warm borders. Both are excellent
in quality and appearance, and the demand for
seeds of these kinds in spring proves that they
are still the most popular of all the sorts in
cultivation.—J. G. H.

- Those who prefer having a nearly

round variety to the Ashleafs may with advan-
tage grow Early Border ; it is of quick growth,
and, considering the very small amount of haulm
made, the tubers are surprisingly large ; they
are very clean, and handsome, too, and thequality
is all that could be desired. It is well adapted
for pot and frame culture, and, in my opinion,

. is one of the most distinct Potatoes of recent
| introduction.—I.

JSMeP Cauliflowers.— Light sandy soil is

not the best for Cauliflowers, and we wore never able to
get a crop from this kind of soil unless the seeds were
sown about the 1st. of September, and the plants preserved
in frames or handhghts during the winter. When they
way had splendid Cauliflower
about the end of May or early in June, and not one year
only, but every year for Dearly twenty rears. Cow

£“y muY^d.e“ 8taWe 10 di ® i0 ligM

Display of Chrysanthemum* -Thar, i, a grand
display of Chrysanthemums in flower just now at Messrs
Latogs Nursery, Forest Hill. The collection embraces ali
the best and new varieties in cultivation, and it would be
in

Stone edgings. — Your correspondents
have done good service in directing attention to
these, for most gardens are considerably over¬
done with Box, which in the vegetable depart¬
ment harbours slugs and other vermin; more¬
over, it prevents salt being used for the de¬
struction of weeds—a great drawback, as where
it can be applied without doing harm to the
edging it is a great economiser of labour. It
keeps the gravel clean and always makes it
look bright. Tile edgings are stiff and formal,
the only ones I care for being the cable. The
most serviceable are the Staffordshire ware,
which are very hard, there being a good deal
of iron in the clay, and this, with the severe
burning to which they are subjected, prevents
their breaking under the action of frost.
The best of manufactured edgings, how-
eveT n. are ba< *» an< ^ ^ much prefer stone, such
as flint and the large smooth pebbles,
which in some parts are common, and
may be had for little more than the carting.
These are admirable for many of the low grow¬
ing plants. 1 have never seen Gentiana acaulis
do so well as it does when grown between
them. This is easily accounted for, ns its roots
find their way down along the sides of the
stoves, where they form a perfect mat and are
always supplied with moisture. It must be a
dry time indeed if the soil is not damp cloie
around the half-buried stones, which arc cool
and a great stay to the plants. The way to
start with these dead edgings is to strain a line
along the side of the path, and with a spade cut
out a trench as one would for laying in Box,
when the stones can be placed regularly along
at one uniform height and tho soil filled in
behind them again. When this is done, the
planting of the Gentians, or whatever plants
it is intended to have, may commence by dib¬
bling them in between the stones, whero they
will soon grow and spread and form such lines
of beauty as will be a real treat to look on.
Sedums, Saxifrages, and Sempervivums are
nearly all good for the work, and variety is
charming and affords a nice change.—S.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(miscellaneous.)

12271.—Stands for Chrysanthemums.

These are made of deal £ of an ineh thick,
previous to . being planed. A stand for 12
blooms is 18 inches wide by 24 inches in length.

1 he holes for the tubes are 6 inches apart from
centre to centre, and 3 inches from the sides and
ends. They ought to be painted green and
varnished. Besides the tubes, wooden cups
must be provided, with a stem at the base to be
inserted in the water tubes. A hole must be
bored with a gimlet through the centre of the
stem and into the base of the cup, through
which the stem of the flower has to be passed.
The stem has to be made secure with a plug
passed into the hole upwards. The blooms
must be arranged with some regard to harmony
of colour, the largest ones in the back row, the
medium blooms in the middle row, and the
smaller ones in front. Feet, of course, must be
fixed at each corner of the stands, so that they
are 3 inches high in front and 6 inches at the
back.—J. D. E.

12251. — Paraffin and petroleum. —
Paraffin is a distilled oil, whilst petroleum is a
native rock oij. Petroleum is a pure hydro¬
carbon (composed of carbon and hydrogen). It
has been obtained from the peat bogs of Ireland,
and large works exist for its distillation from
coal in England, Scotland, and, I believe, Wales.
When used in lamps it gives a clear, strong,
tolerable white, light. Petroleum is produced
(pumped .up) in great quantities in North
America, including Canada, and Russia is now
becoming a large contributory. Petroleum is
more inflammable than paraffin, and its manu¬
facture, keeping, sale, and conveyance are now
regulated by the Explosives Act, 1S73.—J. I\,
Lancashire.

12263.-— Christmas Roses. — I have some
of these in a bed, and just lately I carefully re¬
moved all the hard and sour soil from the centres
of the plants for 2 inohee or 3 inches, and filled
in with sharp, clean sand, taking care to destroy
all sli.gt, <lc. $uriig theojcrwioi]. Tb« flowers
will now come up pure in colour and of good
form. I bsvo vlictd rill ii^iv:^ i>vti tic bed,

480

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Nov. 29, 1884.

.1**11 ™.. 1 «„. 11 V n«« mamirfi water around * 12326 —White variety of Black Currant.—Can 1 first, but it will not occur many days,

arnl shall occasionally 8 aT ,„,us n fT HU any eorrespondfiit toll aieifhehM eve had or seen a white At the Bam© time see that they have plenty of

the plants, taking care to keep anything dis- var jety of the Black Curraot? I have one youn>f bush . .. hand and if the defect

coloured from tlio buds. I had a beautiful lot which I got from a friend who found It* ancestor in an old shell- formmg material a , , .

■ Its fruit m colour is exactly like the White still contmues a [little bone dost or powdered

chalk must be added to the soft food. Although
green food, such as Cabbages and Lettuces, will
soon be getting scarce, it is most important that
a daily supply be given, even if it has to be
mrchased at the greengrocer’s. It prevent*
iver disease, which is only too prevalent in cold
wet weather, especially among our winter
laying varieties, such as the Cochin and Brahma.
This disease arises from indigestion, brought
about by injudicious feeding, and as the birds do
not roam about or pick up certain materials so
necessary in aiding digestion during cold or wet
weather, it is evident that extra precaution*
should be taken. The best plan is to give a slight
purgative once a week, say half a grain of
calomel per bird, mixed well up in the soft food,
or made into pills with bread, and thrown to
the birds when hungry ; only see that each get
their share and no more, although two gTainaat
one dose would not injure an adult bird. Lato
hatched chicken, maybe, suffer from rheuma¬
tism or cramp if wo have much wet, and severe
weather following. Old birds also suffer occa¬
sionally from these ailments. Bathe the legs in
warm mustard and water, carefully dry, and
nlace for an hour or two in a basket before the
iire. Then remove to a warm, dry place, and
feed on the moat nutritious and stimulating
diet. Should the hird appear very weak, a little
sherry may be added to the drinking water.—
Andalusian.

of Urcre clean and Dei feet bloom last winter.— garden. Its fruit in colour la exactly
w!2u« n on-Vcnt Curran,, but .t, fluvour. „ - thgvoj,»<1 ^gmg.

12272.—Crocuses and mice— It is impossible to
effeetnally presen t* the Crocus root* from the attacks of
mloe iu any other way than by trapping them. A small
bit of bread cruet is a good bait; they prefer this to the
Crocus root*, which they have to obtain by scratching
away the soil.—J. D. E.

ance of tho leaves, is unmistakably that of the Black
Currant.— B. C.

12327. — Chrysanthemums. — Would
describe wbafc a Japanese Chrysanthemum is ? I can pick
out from my small collection cf thirty pots of plants the

large flowered and incurved, and also I think, the reflexed.

--v- - The Anemone-flowered are, I fancy, not difficult to dla-

12261.—Wire worm in Vine border.—Unless they I tinguish, and the Pomponea are easily recognised by
are very numerous no harm will result from their presence taking tho Codo nulli as a standard of comparison, but
In vinc'borders, but they do eat the succulent young roots. I although I have looked through two volumes or Garden-
There is no better plan* to get rid of them than by taking iso and consulted several catalogues, I fail to recognise a
slices of Potatoes or Carrots and putting them on the ends Japanese Chrysanthemum when I see it. What is the mean-
Of sticks, bury them a few inches in the ground and ing of PompooeT—W. P.

examine them daily, tho wirewonna will be found attached i i 2 828—Single Dahllas.-1 have a number of these,
to them, and they can easily be destroyed. J. D. E. I p r(x i U ced from seed last year. What is the proper mode

j of planting them iu the spring? Will each tuber if detached
Names ol plants .— Subscriber (TM“ I I “ M 41 *" * *‘ , * v *" 11

Zealand .spinach (Tetragonia expanea).

Spinea Dougiosi ; 2, Amroobiuin alatuiu.

The ■ “ * “ ” ' *

The fruit of Physalis appears to be that of P. grondiflora.

(Toddington).—New from the stem to which it hangs giow into a plant If planted

na)_ Beyiwner. _1, ; Be|*arately, or Is it the proper way to replant the whole of

uru _/>. Brodit .— the tubers attached to the stalk or stem just as they wero

hastata.

H. Lesley.— 1, Asplenlum laserpitifollum ; 2, Pclloea .
- II. B. A it.-A

-Aster multiflorus.

Names offruita — J.D.M. —1, Not known :2, Scarlet
Russet; 6, Barcelona Pcarmoin ; 6. Fearn’s Pippin ; 7,

Cox's Orange Pippin ; 8, Pears too much decayed.- R. T.

Myers.—I, Striped Beefing ; 2, Wellington ;. s « Golden

taken up from the ground in the autumn ?-St. I via*.

12329. — Honeysuckles in November. —On the
morning of November 16th I gathered a fine spray of Honey¬
suckle from my garden full of blossom and smelling as
sweetly as in tho middle of June. Is this not unusual in
November? The night previously my garden thermometer
registered 32 degs., the night before 30 degs., and the night

**«■-}. griped i "““‘S'!? V’lT'T: tb»t 28 d^i-8. H? B..HAH.

Codim : 4. BedfordshinrFoundllng : 5 and 6, Reinette du , _ ___ , , ^ _ . . , . , .. .

Canada ; 7 Notknown ; 8, Courtof Wick.- G. Mitchieon. 12330 —Weight Of Apple —To what weight has an

—forkshue GrcenLug.—V. K.—l. Ojut t of Wick ; *,! Apple been known to attain ? I read of some shown this
King of the Pippins Alfriston ; 4. King of the Pippins, year weighing 6 lb. and 7 lb.; wo wish to know if such

■Corofus.—Court of Wick.-Others next week. weights aro likely to be correct.-F. Vi .

12311. —Cloth Ot Gold Rose. —Can any readers
inform me where I can get the above-named Rose. I have
tried at several respectable nurseries. Three Rnscs I
bought for it turned out to l>c Devonienris, and four
nurserymen said it was quite out of date and that I should
not be able to get it. I wont it as a climber for a south
wall.—A. M. Z.

12332.— Tea Roses.— Will any of your correspondents
inform me if a Niphetos Rose in a pot can be successfully
grown In a sitting-room, and under what conditions, abo

QUERIES.

Rules Ibr Correspondents.— All (vmmimfcnriom
for insertion should be clearly and concisely u-ntten on one
aids of the paper only arul addressed to the Editor. Litters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the'sender is required, in addition to any nom

de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries __„_ F __ ___

should always bear the. number and title of the query if it is any good try ing to grow In the open ground Tea
answered. When more than one query is sent each should Roses which are classed as vigorous?— Dost Man,
be on a separate piece of paper Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
Of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the vyek they are received. Queries not answered
should be sent to us again.

Naming plants or fruit.— Four plants, fruits , or
flowers on(y can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens art tent. We do not undertake to
name varieties of florists' flowers, such as Fuchsi
Geraniums, Asalcas, as these can only be correctly nam<

BEES.

Bees in house roof.— Mr. J. E. YouDge
having written on this subject in your issue of
FucAsioj, t h e jxth October lost, it may bo of some service
<JU It’Lvl. ill explain th« mc.M adopted one day this

Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to autumn in this neighbourhood for removing bees
namt should always accompany the parcel. Corresj»jndcnts from the roof of an outhonse, when about 601b.
«** fruit to b. * nW . of honeycomb were also secured. The services

«"*>" *«*“• I of , m f ton (veiled and gloved)i wh0 u a bee.

12312. — Culture of Palms. — Would some reader keeper, were obtained, and three others
kindly give me some practical instructions on th« props- similarly protected assisted, though of course
gation and culture of tho various kinds of Palms In general g0 mao y were no t re ally necessary. Three

use?—E ddie. „ smokers, in which Tobacco paper was burnt,

12313.—Artificial manure.— Will Kitchener,” on , TK«

page 449 of No. 297, kindly inform me where Beeson's JB® *bree home-made squibs were used. ine
artificial manure may be obtained ?—St. Ivlak. bees had built under the top ridge of the house,

12314,-Hortlcultural societies. — Will someone and at one end of it, and gained access through
kindly oblige me with the rules and schedules of a couutry a small hole under one of the ridge tiles. Two
horticultural socioty, whose principal object is to encourage f theae. and sufficient of the slating on one side
cottagers in cultivating vegetables, fruits, and flowers?— , buuivwww vu« a ‘^

J. ^Morgan, St. A nun’s Lodge, Chepstow, Monmouthshire. | to enable the comb to be cut out, were removed.

12315 .—Magnolia not blooming 1 .— Can any of your i The honeycomb was then placed in dishes and
road rs tell me why a Magnolia, planted under a north pans after being cleared of any straggling bees,
wall, has never blossomed during the ten y ears it has covered with cloths. The slate and ridge-

been there? The soil is well-manured and tho roots covered ti , th renlaced and fixed with a few

with ashes a little every wintcr.-SoMKRSET. i tlIes then repiacea ana nxea witn a lew

12310. — Yucca glorlosa (Adam's Needle).-I ’ new , U S s “^ '' me ’ “!.*■ h u * pt fTs

have had some of these in my garden for nearly thirty posoly that the bees might re-build there. Had
vears and have never had the pleasure of seeing thorn In it been desired to get rid of them completely
bloom. Is there any way of making them bloom? Do no thi n g further would have been required than
they require .ny .peealtroxlment l-O. J. „ n , h „ bole «n that thoaa oniaida anuld

12317.— Border and tree Carnations —What are
the distinguishing points of dilTerence between a border
and tree Carnation ?—F.

12318 —Cutting down Irish Yews —What would
be the etrect of cutting down two tall Irish Vows to within
2 ) feet of the ground ?—KsqriRER.

12310.—Drying Prunes.—I should be glad of some

Information respecting the latest French methods of dry ing _ _ _. . . , . „ .

Prunes.-M. N. E^gB in winter.— Early-hatci.oa pullets

12320.-Travellers’ Joy.—^T»t is the best way to should now show signs of commencing to lav.
propagate Traveller’s Joy, and is Clematis Flammula the The most sure signs are the development of tno
same plant?—8. M. M. comb, and the sound known as “cackling.”

l *S2 l .-Study of botany-I am thinking of com- Generous feeding will alone ensure a continuous
mencing the study of botany, the natural system; what , . „ ar i„ : n it.

book would be likely to be useful to mo to study from ? - F. supply of eggs a warn f® c d early in the
12322.—Chrysanthemums after flowering.- morning, with a dash of spiced condiment,
Will someone kindly say what is beat to be done with pot scraps at noon, and sound grain, as muon as they
Chrysanthemums (which arc now tn the conservatory) when w m ea t a t night, just before roosting time,
they have done blooming?—O aklki on. ! Do not be in a hurry to run a cock with the

to close up the bole so that those outside could
not have again taken possession of their snug
quarters. —Falmouth.

POULTRY.

imi.—Weight of Grapes from house — I ahonld
b„* glad to know how many pounds of Grapes (Block Ham¬
burgh) might be expected from a lean-to house, 28 foet
long and 12 feet wide.—C. E.

12324.— Five leaved Begonias.— My fancy-leaved
Begonias, which have been very One all the summer, are

now dying down, A1 - 1 -*■ M --

flowering kinds?

CBS.—OARLriOlI.

pullets until they have actually commenced to
fay. Kill off all cockerels not intended for
stock ; they will not improve in weight much
now until spring, and will eat their heads off
long winter. Nest boxes should be
I shall be gliid if somoone will instruct seen to, although many pullets will lay about
\ the house and run, or even from the perch while

iow dying down. Do they require rest tho same as the a _^*^*1

12826.—Fuchsias at rest.— Fuchsias which were put at roost, when first commencing to lay; but a
to real about a month aro now shot Ling very abun- dean and seoluded nost will soon tempt

HOUSEHOLD,

Pickled cabbage.— As tho present is the
season for thiB pickle, I give the following good
recipe for making the same : Procure a nice
firm, dry, red cabbage, and cut it in slice#.
Have ready one or more jars, put in a layer of
cabbage, then sprinkle & small quantity of salt
and the usual spices on this, then another layer
of cabbage, salt, and spices, repeating the doe©
until the jar is quite full. Next pour over
suilicientcold vinegar to thoroughly coverall. Tie
down and put away in the store cupboard. In
a!>out a week or ten dayB look to see if more
vinegar is required, and if so, add it. Tie down
agaiu, and in about two months from the date
of first putting in pickle it will be ready for use.
This is a much easier and nioer way of doing
this picklo than the old-fashioned way of cutting
the cabbage in slices, sprinkling freely withaalt.
and leaving it for twenty-four or forty-eicht
hours, thereby rendering the cabbage flabby.
No oue who gives my way a fair trial will go
back to the old.—F.

Mlxod pickles.—To every 2 quart# of
vinegar allow 2 ounces bruised ginger, 2 ounces
of mustard, 2 ounces of salt, 1 ounce mustard
seed, half an ounce of turmeric, half an ounce
of ground black pepper, a soltapoonful of
cayenne pepper, half an ounce of cloves bruieed.
Have a largo jar with an air-tight lid, put into
it as much vinegar as is required, put tho
mustard, turmeric, pepper, and cayenne in a
ba^in, mix them thoroughly with sufficient
vinegar to make into a smooth paste, and add
to the vinegar in the jar. Keep this liquor In
a warm place, and stir every morning fora
month. It will now be ready for use. F#t
vegetables into it as they come into season,
taking care to pick them on a dry day, and
wipe them wdfch a cloth to remove any moisture
or blacks. The following vegetables may bs
used : Cauliflowers, white cabbage, onions,
celery, sliced cucumbers, gherkins, French
beans, nasturtiums, capsicums, young said old
carrots, beetroot, radishes. The vegetable*
which require it should be sliced, and the cauli¬
flowers divided into small bunches. Put these
into the pickle raw, and at the end of the season,
w hen as many of the vegetables have been added
as could be procured, store it away in bottles,
and tie over with a bladder. It will be ready
to eat in about nine or twelve months, I have
not yet tried the above myself, but tasted it in
a friend's house, and thought it so excellent that
I got tho receipt from her.

Medlar ‘sUy.— HxP-p«ek medlars, put them In a pot,
cover with wa.i y. Ln'i Uioi.i utaml to simmer In a cdpf>: r
til broken, t6e*i them. Add thr**-quorter» ©t &

W’lUscmeoiu toll itk-■ \.t* Fo*»todowlU» i- al. 'iVfn U tool I U tVd *Care

1 Mn<je I/I 1 i. . d> ihifrS'd t mi water they them to deposit their eggs in the proper pla-v. j „ 0 t to put hi the wdluuut or the Jolly will

- - J ■ , Thero may be also alow shell less eggs *t -■

clew.

rs ot ai

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

DECEMBER 6, 1884.

No. 300.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

plants are strong. The lowermost flowers open
tirst.

TALL-GROWING CAMPANULAS.
Bellworts have always held a deservedly high
place amongst hardy plants, and for variety of
form and fine shades of colour, especially blues,
it would be hard to find their equals in any
other genus. As regards size, they vary from
the most diminutive of flowering plants, such
asC. Raineri, C. cenisia, Ac., of the high Alps,
to the Siberian C. lactiflora and the Canterbury
Bells of Southern Europe. The dwarfness of
the former two eminently fits them for the
embellishment of shelves or ledges in the
rockery and other places where it is desirable
to bare green natural carpets, beautiful in their
season, and the latter two, along with a few
more of the taller-growing sorts, stand un¬
rivalled for the decoration of beds and mixed
tower borders ; even in their native countries
they are said to constitute most striking orna¬
ments in the landscape as they tower above
dwarfer plants, or, as seen peeping throagh the
filler-growing bushes, reminding one of the
Foxgloves of our woods and groves. When
naturalised and associated avith Foxgloves,
Ragged Robin, and others of our tall-growing
wild plants, the effect of the contrast is most
pleasing; indeed, in this way only can we
mike our woods and shady walks interesting or
beautiful.

C. lactiflora is an extremely pretty Cau¬
casian species, bold and showy in appearance.
It grows from 3 feet to 4 feet high. It has a
pyramidal branching habit, and bears a pro¬
fusion of blue-tinted flowers, which last more
or less all through the summer. They are cup-
shaped, somewhat drooping, and havo the seg¬
ments slightly turned back ; the leaves, which
are narrow, clasp the stem, and are slightly
serrated. To grow it to perfection it requires
a rich, heavy loam, and is all the better for
having a shady position. C. lactiflora ccerulea
is a lovely variety, with bright blue flowers and
much the same habit as the type. Both are very
useful border plants, and often used for beds in
the flower garden in company with Lobelia
cardinalis. They are increased by means of seed
or division of the roots.

C. bononiensis (Panicled Harebell) is a neat-
habited species, which grows from 3 feet to 4 feet
high, and bears many small ascending branch-
lets, on which are borne pretty bell-shaped
Sowers, varying in colour from violet to puro
white. The leaves are small, oval, or almost
cordate, rough to the touch, and having a white
nap underneath. It is a native of Bologna,
Austria, Ac., and a very useful plant for borders
or rockery.

The Peach-leaved Harebell (C. persici-
folia) is a native of Europo from Sweden to
iVl pain,and is said also to be found naturalised in
some parts of this country. It was cultivated
hy Gerard as early as 1596. It grows from 2
feet to 3 feet in hoight, and when planted in
large clumps presents a very handsome appear¬
ance. The leaves are very sparingly distributed
on the stem, which is unbranched, and they are
I very narrow and long ; the flowers are blue and
1 broadly campanulate. There are five or six
r meties of this species, among the best of which
i e alba, a kind with double flowers, and coro¬
lla, the latter being the more beautiful of the
wo, and well deserving a place in every collec-
>on. They commence flowering in June, and
ben the summer is not too dry last till Scp-
Jnber. *

The broad-leaved Harebell (C. latifolia),
tfch Sir Walter Scott calls the “Throatwort
*h its azure bell,” is one of the handsomest
i moat useful of the genus for naturalising in
°<to> Ac., as it has a preference for shady
in which it will reach from 4 feet to 5
* to height if the soil be rich. The stems are
*t, often branching, and densely covered
, broad, oval, double serrated leaves. The
} "Jtrs, which are purplish, bftye long tub<

I** we produced at the axils of the \t
W^rally one, but often vw Vot IjbRe i

C. latifolia macrantha has a much dwarfer
habit than that of the above, and it may also be
distinguished by the flowers being of a deeper
purple, and having longer tubes. This and the
variety Van Houttei are very useful for the
rockery, requiring a cool situation and heavy
loam. They flower from June to August.

C. PYRAMIDAL fs, although a much more
fashionable plant thirty or forty years ago, when

Tho Clin bin" Bellflower (Campanula rapunculoidcs).

it was cultivated principally for decorating halls,
staircases, Ac., than now, it still holds a high
place among hardy flowering plants. Along
with Canterbury Bells it has become almost in¬
dispensable for the decoration of the greenhouse
and conservatory in autumn. It is also very
useful for forming light screens in the flower
garden, for which purpose, however, the plants
arc best grown in pots and planted out in spring.
It is a perennial, but never so strong as in the
first year ; it is therefore advisable to divide the
■Jjpld plants and grow a stock from the offsets or
aiao seedlings j the latter are the most satis¬

factory, being always the strongest. The seed
should be sown in autumn as eoon as it is ripe
in pots under glass ; prick off the seedlings when
up and give them a shift a3 soou as they are
ready to handle. The protection of a cold frame
will be found quite sufficient for them. In rich
top-dressed ground this Campanula often reaches
a height of from 6 feet to 7 feet, the stem being
straight, much-branched, and pyramidal, ana
well furnished with flowers from bottom to top.
The leaves are smooth, shiny, and evenly ser¬
rated, those at the root cordate, the upper ones
beiDg much narrower and ovate ; flowers spread¬
ing, five parted, light blue, sometimes white.
It is a native of Southern Europe, and flowers
late in the summer and autumn.

C. latiloba (C. grandis).—This plant is
closely allied to persicifolia, from which, how¬
ever, it differs in having sessile flowers and
large permanent bracts. It is very useful for
the decoration of rockwork, the more so as it
forms dense masses of persistent lanceolate
leaves, slightly undulated. It grows from 3
to 4 feet high, with a closely set spike of flat
purple flnwers. There is also a white variety.

The Climbing Bellflower (C. rapuncu-
loides), the subject of the accompanying illustra¬
tion, is one of the boldest and showiest of our
native flowers. In some parts of Scotland—
Fife, for instance—it is very common, but less
so in England, and is naturalised in America.
It is well worth growing in the hardy plant
border, as it is so handsome when in flower.
When well developed it is a yard or more in
height, and the slender stems are burthened
with drooping, purple bells, as shown in the
picture. It needs no culture, and will hold its
own against the strongest. D. K.

HARDY SPRING FLOWERS.

Amongst these the Christmas Rose should be
named first. There are many varieties of this
plant, but the most popular and best form is the
variety which flowers early, and produces largo
pure white flowers, and is named maximus. In
mild winters it flowers in January, and the
crown should always bo covered by a cloche or
handlight set on three bricks, in order to protect
the flowers from the wet ; frost does them little
harm. Next in succession come the spring bulbs,
beginning with the small, bright blue Scillas,
Snowdrops, and Crocuses, the latter of many
shades of colour—purple, blue, yellow, silver,
white, and numerous intermediate tones; and
it need only be said of all that they can hardly be
planted too extensively or too thickly on
borders or on the Grass. They do not extend
fast, and produce but little effect when planted
thinly. To be seen to advantage, they should
be planted in broad masses and the colours
should be kept separate. When mixed indis¬
criminately the effect is monotonous. No plants
produce a richer effect in spring than do the
Crocuses arranged in distinct masses ; and the
pure blues, golden yellows, and silvers are the
most effective. A mass of Snowdrops looks well
on a lawn, but it is eclipsed by a mass of any of
the silvery white Crocuses, which are more
telling, the flowers being brighter and showing
themselves better.

Later in spring we have a whole host of other
bulbs, represented chiefly by the Narcissus and
Tulip family, which together provide a rich
display for two or three months, according to
the season and locality. We have had Daffodils
in flower some seasons from the first of April,
when the Narcissus poeticus nanus, Horsfieldi,
and others began to flower, till the 25th of June,
when we could then gather good blooms of N.

? oeticus flore-pleno, the double white Daffodil.

he Daffodils are mostly all suitable for culture
on the flower border, or for naturalising on the
Grass and in the wild garden. The varieties aro
numerous, but the really good kiuds, from the
gardener’s point of view, are few. Respectable
seedsmen, who consult the popular taste, reduce
the list from a hundred or more sorts to about
one dozeUMIaUEpjro 3 and these inclujc|e| ©Mi, #fc,X
the common double Daffodil, Narcissus maxupjiB,

482

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 6, 1884.

OraDge Ph«?nix, moschatus, biflorus, Horsfieldi,
Bulbocodium, and Poet’s Narcissus in its
hingle and double forms, all of which are good.
Of the yellow, perhaps the largest-flowered
variety, maximus, and the small-flowered
Bulbocodium are the best. The first is single,
produces large clear yellow flowers, very effec¬
tive in the mass, and the second does not grow
much taller than a Crocus, and is equally effec¬
tive. All the varieties should be planted early
in the autumn, say October, but not later than
November, for they begin to root and grow
early. This is in the case of bulbs expected to
flower the following spring, for Daffodils will
transplant at almost any season of the year.
We have often taken thorn up when just coming
into flower, and the plants have flowered well
afterwards. Roots may be planted in almost
any situation under trees or in the open, but the
earliest and best flowers are produced by plants
growing in sunny situations, at least in the
north. The tender kinds ripen their bulbs
better in such places, and consequently flower
better.

The list of Tulips is a long one, including
double and single kinds ; for outdoor planting
the single kinds are by far the best. The doubles
are top-heavy and droop, and for show have no
chance with the single varieties. Any number
of varieties may be planted, but preference
should be given to the most pleasant shades,
and between many so-called varieties there is
little or no difference. There are early and late
kinds, however, and in planting this should not
be forgotten, as the two provide a loDg succes¬
sion of flowers, and if late and early sorts are
planted in alternate patches, the one set will
flower just as the other is going out. On the
b ire border hardy Tulips will grow and flower
annually for a score of years or longer if not
disturbed ; indeed, they will do this whenever
they can complete their growth and mature
their foliage properly, upon which their con¬
tinuance depends. They succeed well in Grass,
but do not last so long, as the Grass chokes them
during the season of growth, unless kept
trodden down.

Of Scillas and Lily of tiie Valley there
are several cultivated forms, but the blue kinds
hardly differ from the wild wood Hyacinth,
except in length of stem and size of flower ; but
the equally strong growing rosy-tinted and the
white kinds are decided acquisitions, especially
the white variety, which is both scarce and
dear. The flowers are large and pure white,
aud during the season are among tne prettiest
flowers on the hardy border. It is a plant
worth planting as freely as the Daffodil, and it
succeeds in any soil. It is a good subject to
plant among masses of the Lily of the Valley,
w'hich thrives anywhere among other plants,
and if let alone will yield quantities of flowers
in May and June. Unlike Daffodils and Tulips,
the cultivated pot Hyacinth does not establish
itself outdoors except under favourable circum¬
stances ; but bulbs planted out in November in
the open border bloom well in spring, and are
both hardy and gay, rivalling or beating
most other spring bulbs by their pleasing and
bright shades. Old bulbs, too, that have
been forced early under glass, if taken care of
after they have done flowering till their
foliage fades naturally, may be afterwards
planted out, with the certainty of most of
them flowering during the next two years. The
flower spikes will not be large, perhaps bearing
nine or a dozen flowers each, but when planted
in patches pretty close together, they look just
as well as finer ones. Blue flowers are plentiful
among spring flowers, and the Grape Hyacinth
is one of the best. Roots, planted in almost any
situation where the ground is not wet, soon
make good plants, and produce many flowers
unfailingly every Bpring, both in the north and
south ; but to produce effective masses it must
be planted freely at the first, and then be left to
itself. It flowers in April. Most of the Irises
are summer bloomers, and will come to be noticed
amongst these ; but Iris reticulata is a very
early flowering sort, and one of the most attrac¬
tive of the whole family ; it also forces well.
The flowers are of a rich blue colour and fragrant,
and the plants should have a favourable position
on the border, as it comes into bloom in February
and March.

Miscellaneous flowers. —In addition to
those mentioned above, the following will all
be found excellent, showy, and Ivorthy of care

D 1 3 it izedby VjXJCjV KT

in cultivation, viz.: Arabis, Dog's-tooth Violets,
Cyclamens, the pink and blue varieties of
Hepatica apennina, lberis corifolia (the best
perennial Candytuft), Phlox procumbens, a
rockery subject, of creeping habit, and very
pretty; Lithospermum prostratum, Anemone
fulgens, the best crimson spring flower, and
very showy ; Aubrietia purpurea, close-growing
and dwarf blue ; red and white double Daisies,
which flower freely till July, and are very good ;
Pansies and Violas in warm spots and borders ;
Saxifraga Wallacei, the showiest and best of its
class, flowers white; Wallflowers, of which there
are now good distinct strains of dwarf habit, that
come true from seed ; the giant white and yellow
Polyanthus, the boldest and most striking of
the yellow section of that family, producing
flowers on stalks sometimes 9 inches high, with a
cluster of flowers each larger than the common
Primrose ; Polyanthuses in variety ; and, above
all, coloured Primroses, a host in themselves,
producing an almost endless variety of the
richest shades of colour. Without doubt these
are amongst the very best of spring flowers, and
have a great future before them. Seed should
be sown in all cases, if possible, as soon as ripe ;
but the previous year’s seed, sown in April,
gives the best plants for flowering the year
following. These do not include the varieties
of the Primula japonica and other exotic
varieties, many of which are also beautiful. The
common Auricula comes into flower as the
Primrose goes out of flower, and only those who
have grown it outdoors know how well it grows
and flowers, especially in cool, well-drained
soils. It is propagated by seed, the same as the
common Primrose, and by division of the stools
about Midsummer, or any time in August or
September. As regards the usual propagation
of spring plants, they are multiplied by seed,
cuttings, or division of the roots. Any subject
which produces stems which can be separated,
with a bit of root to each, will grow if divided
and re-planted, either when the plant has just
died down or when it begins to grow. All
bulbous subjects are easily separated when the
foliage dies down, and subjects that produce a
profuse growth, like the Arabis or the perennial
Candytuft, root freely under a handlight any
time during the summer. J.

Auricula offsets. —The season will soon
arrive for thoroughly overhauling Auriculas.
Every one of them must be carefully examined ;
all decaying leaves and decaying matter should
be removed, and the pots which have become
dirty should be scrubbed clean. January is the
best time to take off offsets. They strike roots
more freely and require less looking after at this
season than at any other. We use 2£-inch
pots in which to strike them. Three small
offsets may be put in one pot, or one or two
larger ones in the same-sized pot. The pots
should be placed close together under hand-
lights out-of-doors. Surface dressing next de¬
mands attention. This used to be considered
a very important item in the culture of the
Auricula, and by many growers it is held to be
so now. A considerable portion of the surface
soil is removed and replaced by some material
much more stimulating, say equal parts of loam
and rotten manure. Now, I have no hesitation
in saying that more mischief is done to the
plants by this rich feeding than good. All that
the plants require is to have the green mould
that may have gathered on the surface removed,
to be replaced with a small portion of compost
rather richer than that used for ordinary pot¬
ting. Now, too, is the best time to sow seeds
gathered in July last year. We used at one
time to sow them as soon as gathered, but the
largest proportion of them did not appear above
ground until spring, and some small plants that
appeared late in the autumn and winter were
cut off by slugs. The seeds vegetate freely in
a bed in which there is a little bottom-heat; and
as soon as they are well up and the first rough
leaf formed, they are pricked out in 3-inch pots,
about a dozen in a pot; when the leaves meet
together they are again repotted, three plants in
the same sized pot. At next potting one only is
placed in each pot.—J.

Violets. —“W. A.’s” experience of Violet
Belle de Chatenay does not agreo with mine. I
havo already this autumn gathered some thou¬
sands of blooms from it, and if the weather
remains mild there is every prospect of a con

tinuation of the supply. These have all been
picked from plants growing in the open ground.
The flower, it is true, is not quite so pure a
white as Comte Brazza, being somewhat tinted
with purple on the backs of the petals. Occa¬
sionally, however, one meets with blooms of
great purity and exquisite regularity of form.

It is at least double the size of the Comte
(being often as large as a half-crown), and much
more of a rosette in shape, very sweet, and a
fine, robust grower. This excellent Violet
needs specially good cultivation, or it is hope¬
less to expect autumn flowers. It is very
subject to red spider in hot, dry seasons, and
should be mulched with a good coating of
rotten manure, and be kept well watered. It
is possible that many who fancy they have
Belle de Chatenay have only a spurious stock of
the old Queen or La Reine. These varieties
much resemble it in the colour of the flowers, but
are far inferior to it in every other respect. I
find that a good sunny summer like the last
suits this and all other kinds of Violets, pro¬
vided that they receive proper attention while
the hot weather lasts. Certain it is that this
autumn they are remarkably floriferous, while
after hot, sunless summers, though the plants
look greener, autumn flowers are much scarcer.

I was able recently at the Torquay Chrysan¬
themum Show to exhibit 15 varieties of Sweet
Violets in great perfection—viz., Comte Brazza,
New York, De Parme, Belle de Chatenay,
Double Red Russian, Mgt. de Savoie, La Patrie,
Madame Louise, all double varieties ; Princess
of Prussia, Argentteflora, Victoria Regina,
White Czar, Odoratissima, Russian and Single
Neapolitan, single varieties. I enclose a few
specimens for your inspection.—R. VV. Beacuey,
Fludtr , Kingskcrsioell. [The blooms sent were
very fresh, and deliciously sweet.— Ed ]

African Marigolds.—I saw a bed of these
last autumn at Mr. Mann’s, Howden Dyke.
The individual flowers were of an unusual size,
many of the blooms measuring 27 inches in
circumference, and the petals w ere as close as
the finest quilled Aster ; indeed, they were per¬
fect models. Above 150 first prizes have been
awarded to Mr. Mann for them during the last
five years. Ho sows the seed in March on heat,
and w'hen the plants are in rough leaf they are
carefully transplanted into boxes containing
rich soil; the plants are again transplanted when
they have attained the height of 4 inches or 5
inches—not in boxes, but in a cold frame ; the
object of the frequent shifts is to keep the
plants short and sturdy. In May they oie
planted out finally on previously prepared beds,
the soil of which has been highly enriched with
good stable manure. If the weather is dry they
will require frequent soakings of water and
occasional applications of liquid manure. If
blooms are required for exhibition the branches
should be thinned out, leaving about four of the
strongest; the blooms should be shaded by in¬
verted flower-pots. It is a great treat to see
this noble flower grown to perfection, and a
stand of tiventy-four blooms is quite an im¬
posing sight.—R. M., ShadweH.

Single Dahlias.—In a recent number of
Gardening Illustrated a correspondent com¬
plains that the single Dahlia has rather
deteriorated than improved of late years. I
wonder whether he has seen Mr. Ware’s
novelties of the present yeai ? Several of them
seem to me in advance of anything yet sent out
by nurserymen. I planted some twenty new
sorts at the end of May, and, though all were
good, the following were unrivalled both in form
and colour:—T. S. Ware, dazzling orange
scarlet; Mrs. Castle, intense lake ; Fashion, a
crushed Strawberry colour, very distinct; Dr.
Moffat, an immense Paragon; Cetewayo, an
improved Negress, almost black; G&mbetta,
yellowish buff; Mrs. Bowman, purple magenta. *
T. S. Ware, Fashion, and Dr. Moffat were all
I could desire, and I desire a good deal. Of
the older varieties Beauty of Cambridge cannot >
be beaten. No amount of bad weather hurts its K
solid petals. Mrs. Goldring, though the petals
are flimsy, is so smothered with flowers that a*
few hours of fine w-eather repairs all damage
done by w’ind and rain. Lucy Ireland is splendid. V
Mrs. R. Upcher also is first-rate. Last year I ^
tried Union Jack and Stars and Stripes ; both m
were total failures, very common-looking seifs, j
With Pantaloon I was more fortunate, about ,•
half the flowers coming true. Some people *,\

URBANA-CHAMPASGN

Dsc. 6, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

483

raise a lot of seedlings, and, no matter how For a covering I recommend sawdust—when
poor and waaty they are, propagate them next dry, slugs cannot travel on it; when wet, slugs
feason. I saw a large garden near Cambridge will not harbour in it if new. But 1 have
last September filled with such rubbish. The always found the Christmas Rose worthy of a

owner asked me if I had ever seen such Dahlias.

I answered most truly that I never had. I
raised a quantity of seedlings myself last Beason
from the beet seed I could obtain, but there was
not one worth propagating. Comparatively
poor soil seems to me to suit single Dahlias
better than a rich compost. My Dahlia ground,
which is very sandy, was deep and slightly
manured with all hotbed manure six months
before the plants were put in. After planting,
the lurface was well mulched, and when the
flowers opened freely I gave weak liquid manure
twice a week.— Polyanthus.

Wintering: Dahlia roots.— I have found
they are not so easy to save through the winter
u some of your correspondents makes it to
appear, especially the best sorts, for the better
the flower the more difficult are the roots to
keep. I have been an admirer of Dahlias for
years, have tried different ways of storing,
ind have lost some soores of roots in the winter.

I have taken them up, well dried them, and
kept them in a warm, dry room, and every one
went off with the dry rot. I have also buried
them in a pit of sand, and under Fir trees, and
have lost a great many in both ways. The
following is the most successful way I have
tried, and have lost a few iu that way. I have
taken them up, well dried them, and laid them
in a corner of the tool house and covered them
over with dry earth. I may say mine are all
double sorts, I have never gone in for single
ones.— J. Lex on, Cornwall .

Christmas Rosea. —These are most ser
vieeable as regards supplying cut bloom. The
earliest and finest with us is Uelleborus niger
maximus, which has much larger blossoms, with
itrooger and longer stems than those of the
type ; bnt, although a stronger growing kind,
it does not flower so freely as H. nicer, which
comes quite crowded with blooms. In pots this
latter is of great value, as it may be used for the
embellishment of room windows or greenhouses,
where plants of it will last in perfection for
weeks at a time. In taking them up they
should be lifted with good balls, so as to give as
little check as possible ; and, when potted in
light, rich soil, they should be placed in a damp,
cold frame, and kept close till they get fresh hold
and the flowers begin to expand, after which
they will bear more exposure and air without
flagging. Those intended for cutting outdoors
will need protection, for, though very hardy, the
blooms being so near the ground get disfigured
through the splashing of heavy rain ; not only
this, too, but they come more delicate-looking
and pure under a cover of glass, the petals being
then a lovely clear waxy white, without the
tinge they usually have when fully exposed. If
the plants are in single patches, in borders, &
handlight answers as well as anything, and a
few old sashes may be laid over those growing
in beds. People who are not so fortunate as to
have a good stock of Hellebores will find early
spring the best time to start with them, as then
tfiey are jnst commencing their growth, and
may be pulled apart and divided at pleasure.
What they like most to grow in is pe&t, and a
good situation for them is the margin of Rhodo¬
dendron beds, as there they get partial shade,
in which they delight. Although peat suits
them best, Christmas Roses grow freely and do
fairly well in almost any soil that is not actually
stiff and close ; and even in this, leaf-mould and
sand, dug and mixed with it, will afford all they
reqaire. In planting beds, they should be
placed triangularly, at about 18 inches apart, so
as to give room for their foliage to spread, as on
the full development of this depends the crowns
they make and the number of blossoms they
form.—S.

12263.— Christmas Roses.— The failure
referred to in all probability may be attributed
to the common slug, which at this season of the
year, during mild weather, commits desperate
ravages on young and tender vegetation where
there is any means of harbour at hand, especially
among light soil, which iB a home at once. At
the same time I agree that to give the plants
some lew inches of covering is a great advan¬
tage ; they are more protected from strong
winds and from keen frost at the base of the
crown, and the flowers grow longer in tl

Digitizer by

frame or a good hand-glass, to protect it from
inclement weather. Heavy rains are equally as
disastrous to this plant as frost and snow. It
will repay a little extra attention.— Thomas
Lowe.

12291.— Large Chrysanthemums.— The
best way to propagate these is from root cuttings.
They may be taken off at any time between now
and April. Dividing the plants is a clumsy
way to treat them. The cuttings ought to be
put singly in small pots, and be placed on a shelf
in the greenhouse, or they may be put into cold
frames. Those who have no frames or green¬
houses would do well to let the work of propa¬
gation alone until the spring, when root suckers
can be separated from the plants; they will have
roots attached to them and soon become estab¬
lished if planted out in tine soil.—J. D. E.

— You may diride them opain in sprine if jou like,
but there is alway* a danger of losing good sorts in in¬
clement winters. By taking a few cuttings now. and inst rt-
ing them in sandy voil, there will be nice young plants for
setting out next spring. They strike very well in a green¬
house or in a room during the winter.-J. C. B.

THE COTTON THISTLE.

(ONOPORDON ACANTHIUM.)

There are a great many hardy plants which, on
account of their grossness, are unsuitable for the
ordinary flewer border, jet we cannot afford to

>asc of the

“gig

The Cotton or Scotch Thistle.

dispense with them altogether, as most of them
possess bold leafage and stately growth. The
Cotton Thistle belongs to this class, and a really
ornamental plant it is when seen in luxuriant
growth such as it attains in & light, rich soil in
sheltered nooks. Its large, bold foliage is covered
entirely with a cottony white downy Bubstance,
which gives the plant quite a silvery appearance ;
it often grows as much as 7 feet and 8 feet high,
and ita stout, forking branches spread out widely
at the base, so that the plant acquires a
pyramidal growth. In almost every garden
there are places in which this plant con show
itself off to advantage, particularly if placed in
proximity to green foliage os a background.
Though it is grateful for shelter, it likes plenty
of light, and never grows to perfection if shaded.
It is not a true perennial—after flowering it
generally dies away, but os it seeds freely plants
of it can easily be raised ; in fact, as a rule, it
sows itself. Onopordon illyricum and 0. arabi
cum are two fine plants also, but not so desirable
as 0. Acanthium. The latter, though also
called the Scotch Thistle, is regarded as a
doubtful native of Scotland by Sowerby. It is
not uncommon in England, growing by the
roadsides and in waste places. This plant is the
national emblem of Scotland, and is also the
badge of the Stuarts.

HINTS FOR BEGINNERS.-III.
Climbing Plants.

These can be made a beautiful feature in small
gardens, and yet how seldom one sees them out¬
side the cottage or farmhouse garden. The
banishment of arches, bowers, and shady walks,
embowered by climbers, from our gardens would
be quite a sufficient indictment to condemn the
bare style that came in with bedding without
anything else. The common Honeysuckle is es
good a climber as can be for rambling over
shrubs. The White Dutch ta also good.
Loniccra brachypodaand L. lUxuoea, the Ever¬
lasting Peas, Lathyrus grandifiorus, latifolius,
latifolius albus, and Drummondii are useful for
many purposes. Then there are the Clematis
family, a splendid series, blooming from early
spring until autumn ; the Jasmines and
Aristolochia Sipho, good for towns; the Mag¬
nolias, for sheltered places in the south ;
Ampeiopsis, of several kinds, for walls ; the
hardy Passion-flowerB, Calyategia pubescens, and
Wistaria sinensis. These can be used in a
variety of ways. As a general rule for their
treatment plant them where they can develop
their graceful habit of growth by rambling
about, aud do not twist or struin them into
unnatural or formal Ehapes.

Annual climbers are pretty things for a small
garden ; beautiful effects can be got with Lob*
bianum Tropreolums, Sweet Peas, Convolvulus,
and Canary Creeper. By means of groups of
poles and rustic trellises, the aspect of a small
garden can be changed from year to year by
varying the arrangement. Annuals and bien¬
nials can be varied in the same way. Whera
Canterbury Bells, or Sweet Williams, or Poppies
have done their duty, for instance, dig up and
manure the ground and plant out German
Scabious, Biennial Stocks, and Foxgloves for
another season. The arrangement of bulbs fol¬
lowed by annuals can be varied annually in the
same fashion. By this means all dulness and
sameness will disappear from the beds and
borders, and their place will be taken by in¬
terest and variety.

Annuals and Bienkialr.

These are very useful plants in a beginner’s
garden, especially near towns. The seeds should
be ordered from a first class firm, and care
should be taken to purchase only the very beet
kinds. They may be placed in a bed by them¬
selves, or they may be interspersed with other
plants. The places where hardy kinds are to
be sown should be deeply dug and manured
early in spring; before sowing, the surface
soil should be made fine, as already described.
Biennals differ only from annuals in requiring
to be sown the seaton before they are to flower.
They require to be sown at intervals throughout
the summer according to the requirements of tho
several varieties. The most suitable annuals are:
Nemophila insignia, Leptosiphon roseus, and
densiflorua albus, Saposaria calabrica and
alba, Kaulfussia amelloidts, and Silene pendula,
and its varieties of very dwarf kinds. About a
foot high are : Omphalodes linifolia, Erysimum
Peroffski&num, Collinsia bicolor, B&rtonia
aurea, Whitl&via gloxinioides, Yiscarias in
variety, Eschscholtzia, and dwarf Tropteolums.
Taller are Godetia Whitneyi and its offspring,
G. Lady Albemarle, Lady Satin Rose, Ac., Ac.
Godetia, The Bride, Clarkiapulchella, and varie¬
ties ; Vilmorin’s Rocket Candytuft, Crimson
Flax, Convolvulus tricolor, Crown Daisies, single
and double of many kinds, Coreopsis of several
kinds, Larkspurs and Lupines of m&nv fine
kinds. Of half-hardy annuals : the well-known
Phlox Drnmmondii, Stocks, Asters, Zinnias,
Salpiglossis, Schizanthus, and Marigolds are all
easy to grow. Less known kinds are: Prince’s
Feather and Love Lies Bleeding (once well
known), and Portul&cas, double and single,
Schizopetalon Walkeri, Calandrioias, Pimper¬
nels, and Sphenogyne aurea, and S. speciosa.

Biennials. —The best biennials are Sw r eet
Williams, Canterbury Bells, Foxgloves. German
Scabious, German Stock-flowered Wallflowers,
Biennial Stocks, and Honesty. Annuals which
should be sown in autumn are Sweet Peas,
Poppies, Nemophila, and Silene pendula. Others
will do in sheltered places with care. Biennials
and autumn-sown annuals require to be cloBely
watched in towns to prevent them from being
eaten by vermin. ^ double stock should be
provide! to fill gap* cauaod by damping off,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 6, 1884.

SHRUBBERIES.

The shrubberies in villa gardens are, as a
rule, most miserable affairs, and perhaps the
best advice that could be given to anyone
coming into possession of them is to pull them ,
all up. The three great mistakes usually made
are planting too many evergreens, planting
things which should never be seen in a garden,
and planting too thickly. Where there is only
room for some three dozen shrubs or trees there
should be few evergreens, and all the trees and
shrubs should be flowering. Belts of evergreens
obstruct the circulation of air in winter, and
plants do not do well amongst them even in the
country. Some people fancy they are cheerful,
but their furnished look in winter is purchased
too dearly when it makes the garden sombre
and unhealthy all summer. One or two Laurels,
Hollies, and evergreen Euonymus, with Ivy
on the walls and fences, are quite sufficient when
the beds and borders are fairly furnished with
plants which arc green in winter. Other
shrubs should be flowering ones—the choicer
Lilacs, Spirmas, Weigelas, Cistuses, Hydrangea
pauiculata grandiflora, Deutzias, Crabs, Cydo-
nias, Cherries, and single Roses. If low ever¬
green bushes are mixed here and there with
these, and planted in front of them, and the
shrubs are planted thinly, they can have their
proper treatment—that is, simply to allow' the
leaves to fall in the autumn and lie w'hero they
fall. Lily of the Valley, Solomon’s Seal,
Violets, Primroses, Wood Lillies, Anemones,
terrestrial Orchids, and many other plants
would soon make themselves at home in the
genial soil thus provided, and create a w'orld of
beauty amongst the trees and bushes, after
once seeing which no one would ever think of
touching the ground amongst shrubs with spade,
rake, or hoe.

Rockeries.

There is scarcely a feature beginners are more
fond of introducing into their gardens than a
rockery, and in none do they usually betray
more ignorance. A rockery is useless unless it
is a suitable home for plants which naturally
grow amongst rocks and stones. Rocks which
are not much affected by the atmosphere are
more or less barren. This is very well seen in
some parts of Forfarshire, w'here the prevailing
rocks are old red sandstone of a hard and last¬
ing character, and black basalt, which crumbles
into earth gradually when exposed. Where
the fences in the fields are made of sandstone,
the plants which find a lodgment on them root
only into the dust in the crevices, and can be
pulled out bodily ; but in the basalt or whin-
stone walls the roots take hold of the stone
itself and find their way into the cracks and
crevices of it. There are rockeries and rockeries.
Any one familiar with a rocky country knows
how difficult and expensive it would be to
arrange conditions suitable for all plants which
grow amongst rocks, from those which grow’
amongst the ooze from the constant melting of
perpetual snow, to those which grow in the deep
shade of rocky dells in the lowlands. The most
useful rockery for a small garden is one which
will merely furnish a home for cushion forming
plants which like a dry surface to rest on or
creep over, and for such plants and dwarf shrubs
as are impatient of excessive damp about their
roots, and yet like to find coolness and moisture
there. Some parts may be raised and some
sunk beneath the general level, and if a little
cliff or two can be arranged to form shady nooks
and surfaces so much the better. The stones
should be carefully bedded in rich sandy loam
containing plenty of decayed (not decaying)
vegetable matter, as many rock plants send roots
a long way and should be provided with plenty
of food within reach. Care should be taken not
to provide lurking-places for vermin. After a
-HaegTnner can easily manage the beds and borders
of his garden, a rockery may be taken up as a
species of hobby, and will prove a never-failing
source of interest. If little beds and pockets
are arranged amongst the stones a greater variety
of plants can be grown, as these will suit many
plants which do not do well in borders.

The selection of plants should depend on the
available time of the cultivator. Many rock
plants grow like weeds, but others want watch- i
ing. A good selection of rock plants would be I

Acnna microphylla, Acanlholimon glumaceum, Achillea
og<ruoides, A. umbellate, And rosace Barinentosa,
Anemone Pulsatilla, Aquilegia creruloa, A. glandulosa, a!
granditiora, Allium ntfapelitanum. AlysBlim saxatilo com-

Digitized by GOOgle

pactum, Arabia albida variegate, Arcnaria balearica,
A. montana, A. cephalotes, A sutacea, Aubrietia Camp-
belli, Bulbocndium vernum, Calandrinia umbellate, Cal¬
ceolaria Kellyuna, C&llirhoe involucrata, Campanula
olpina, C. garganica, Cer&stitun alpinuin. Delphinium
cashmerianum, D. cardinale, D. nudicaule, Dianthus
of many kind*. Dry as octopotala, hardy Heaths of
several kinds, Erinus alpinus, Erysimum ochroleucum,
Gentiana acaulis (on level ground), Gnaphalium
Leontopodiuin (Edelweiss), Iberia corifolia, I. gibraltarica,
and I. sempervirens, Iris pumila, I. olbiensis, I. iberica,
I. stylosa, 1. histrio, I. reticulata, and I. pcrsica, Lcwisia
redlviva, Lithospormum proatratum, Myoaotis alpeatris,
M. azorica, Ono3ma tauricum, Oxalia floribunda, Pancra¬
tium illyricum, Pentstenion humilia, 8pring or Alpine
Phloxes of many kinds, Plumbago Larpcntse, Saponaria
ciespitoaa, 8. ncymoidcs, Saxifrages of very many kinds,
Seduuia and Seinpervivums of many kinds, Silenea of
many kinds. Siayrinchiums, Symphvandra Wanneri,
Veronica saxatilis. In shady parts, in peat and leaf-
mould, may be grown terrcatiial Orchids, Dog’s-tooth
Violets, many pretty Primulas, and hardy Cyclamens.

General Management.

Nine-tenths of the management of a garden
may be summed up under the following rules,
which may be called tlie A B C of gardening :—

A. —Plant everything in well-prepared soil of
suitable texture, and take into consideration the
nature, best culture, and habits of each plant
before placing it.

B. —Never dig, fork, or hoe amongst plants
while growing. The rooting of plants begins
with the protrusion of small, hard, horny points,
which penetrate the soil and form the tips of
the growing rootlets. Immediately behind
these tips the growing energy or life of plants is
strongest. There the formation of the cells
which make up the plant goes on most quickly,
the roots penetrating the soil through the hard
tip being pushed forward by the constant forma¬
tion of new cells behind it. If these young roots
are cut or broken in any way so much life or
vital force is lost to the plants, and they become
weakly. In a good bed of plants something
will always be rooting, except during actual
frost. The proper way with plants is to prepare
the soil well in the first instance, and feed the
plants afterwards by top-dressing. When any¬
thing is removed or lifted, supply fresh soil, and
when the -whole bed becomes overcrowded give
it a thorough renovation. Plants which require
annual digging, and manuring, and frequent
hoeing of tho surface soil should be planted by
themselves. All weeds should be hand picked.

C. —Remember that in a state of nature the
only manure that plants receive is leaf-mould,
or the product of decaying vegetation ;
therefore, see that no vegetable matter of
any kind is wasted, but that all is laid
up to rot. The leaves may be removed
from shrubberies, but should be returned to
them after being rotted to powder. All plants
should receive plentiful dressings of decayed
vegetable matter. The attentions that plants
require in a garden are, in a great measure,
caused by the unnatural conditions under which
we grow them. If, for instance, we grow a
marsh plant in an ordinary border we must give
it plenty of water. If we grow a rock plant in
the same border we must see that no stagnant
moisture lodges about its roots. If we grow a
woodland plant in a sunny bed we must supply
it with artificial shade during summer. If w'e
grow florists’ flowers we must give them the
high and unnatural cultivation which has pro¬
duced them, or they will deteriorate.

The Reserve Garden.

An important and almost indispensable
adjunct to a garden of hardy flowers is a few
beds, or even a single bed, in which cuttings,
offsets, and bits of plants can be planted until
they have made growth enough to be planted
out. Plants get broken, and the broken pieces
will make plants in time. Seedlings have to be
planted out and tested ; stock has to be made of
new plants. For all these purposes the reserve
garden is invaluable, as well as a reserve of
plants from which any gaps that may occur can
be filled. J. D.

(To be continued.)

Fever Gum Tree. — T have at the present
time growing and flourishing in my garden at
Woodford a specimen of Eucalyptus globulus,
over 25 feet high, bearing cones, and in girth
8^ inches, at 4 feet from the ground. I raised
it from seed in the spring of 1S79, potted it, and
planted out at Easter, 1881. It w’ould have been
much taller had it not lost its leader in a gale
on Gth June, 1882. It stands at the back of a
I semi-detached villa, and receives protection
I from both houses,—C has. Oldiiam.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

VEITCHS VIRGINIAN CREEPER.

Tins is undoubtedly one of the most valuable
plants for covering walla which we possess, as
it attaches itself thereto without any nailing or
other fastening. The foliage, too, is the right
shade of green and very dense, and the plant is
perfectly hardy. In a young state it is not very
rapid as regards growth ; but when once estab¬
lished its rate of progress is much quicker, the
slender shoots, studded at regular distances
apart with bright green leaves, pushing away
several feet in a season. If it is desired to
cover a wall, and the plants are of the size
usually sold—viz., about a yard high and
slender in growth—they should be planted
somewhat thickly, especially if immediate dis¬
play is required. In this latter case they may
be put in about 18 inches apart and secured to
the wall by a few nails, a support which will
be necessary till young shoots are produced,
when they will attach themselves firmly to
the bricks by means of the small sucker-
like productions with which they are fur¬
nished. In this way, if large plants are
removed, all that is necessary is to fasten
them in their places till the first season’s growth
secures them in the ordinary way. I was com¬
pelled to remove some large plants two years
ago, and as the roots were principally in brick
rubbish at the foot of the wall, I was in no ways
sanguine as to the result. However, I took up
the plants, four in number, as carefully as pos¬
sible. Even then, however, it was necessary to
sacrifice some of the roots, and those that
remained seemed very Bmall in proportion to
the branches. These latter were stripped from
the wall without damage, the plants removed to
their new quarters, planted carefully, and
supplied with waterduring the followingsummer;
tho result exceeded my anticipations.

This habit of securing itself to whatever
support is near gives this Virginian Creeper an
advantage over its stronger-growing ally, which
to cover a wall requires in the first place to bo
secured thereon ; but W’hen that is done tho
long drooping branches arrange themselves in a
very graceful manner. In the case of Veitch’s
Virginian Creeper, however, the wall is covered
with a dense mass of foliage. After it has
attained a large size it sometimes produces
foliage that differs altogether from that usually
found on it. In some cases, indeed, it is as
large as that of a Grape vine, and deeply lobed.
Such an occurrence is singular, as no one would
take the large-lobed leaves and the small
ordinary foliage to belong to the same plant;
bnt if cuttings with only large leaves are
struck, the young growth produced therefrom
is of the ordinary character. A pretty effect
is produced by planting this Ampelopsis and
one of the smaller Ivies in such a way that
their branches become intermixed. In that case
the Ivy furnishes the wall in winter, when the
Ampelopsis is without leaves, and in summer
the foliage of the other becomes more prominent
than that of the Ivy. The Ampelopsis strikes
readily from cuttings if taken off duriug winter.
Cut the shoots into pieces about 6 inches long,
and put them in pots of sandy soil. About a
dozen in a 5-inch pot is a good, useful number,
and they will require to be kept closo in a cold
frame till rooted. Cuttings will also root if pat
in the open ground, but in that case it is neces¬
sary to employ stouter shoots for the purpose,
aud it is not always possible to obtain them.
The young shoots may be taken during
summer and treated in the same way as those of
Fuchsias, when they will soon root. They are
more susceptible of damp than Fuchsias arc,
but with a little attention to obviate this but
few will be lost. Take the cuttings as early in
the summer as possible ; they may be potted off
when rooted, and will make good little plants
by autumn. They will strike readily enough
now, but in that case it is better when rooted
to leave them undisturbed till early spring;
then pot them off and plant them out as the
season advances. This Ampelopsis is also known
and frequently met with under tho name of Yiti-
tricuspidata. Alpha.

Chimonanthus grrandiflorus— The flowering of
this swo-t-seented shrub so early is an indication of tho
mildness or the season. To enjoy the Chimonanthus blooms
they should bo picked and stuck in saucers of damp sand.
In that way they last a long time in rooms. C. grandk-
florus 5 r but a variety of C. fragranfi, which is equally
?ceei-scouted, but smaller.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

485

•H, «

y

/

6, 1884.]

NOTES ON IVY.

cely possible for us to bo too emphatic
•aises of the most distinct forms of Ivy,
t few other hardy climbing plants ever
i a tithe of their freshness and variety,
ng stretch of wall covered with a selec-
ne best green-leaved kinds is always
.g, and never more so than during the
lonths, especially if at intervals the
apanese Jasmine is planted among them
plants of Pyracantha or of Simon’s Coton-

Ueart-leaved Ivy (lledcra lL-pgneriana).

called lucida. The two other kinds sketched
are hastata and digitata, both free growing and
distinct sorts.

Ivv leaves. — Common Ivy is tolerably
plentiful nearly everywhere, but it is not
common to find a good distinct series of its
many varieties even in the best gardens. Of all
the different forms of Ivy, I think the large-
leaved golden one of the best ; certainly the
best of the variegated kinds. Rregner’s variety
is also very bold, its great, glossy, heart-shaped
leaves most effective. Algeriensis is another

never injures a good wall, nor a sound house,
but, on the contrary, hides and softens the stony
bareness of the one and adds beauty and fresh¬
ness to the other.

ROSES.

TRANSPLANTING ROSES.

Seldom have we had so fine a season as this has
been for transplanting. There have been few
days in which this operation could not have

Arrow-leaved Ivy (II. haatata).

Glossy Ivy (EL lucida).

Finger-leaved Ivy (H. digitata).

easter for the sake of their coral fruitage. The
large-leaved golden Ivy is also very effective here
and there along a sunny wall, especially if con¬
trasted with the small-leaved kind atropurpurea,
which has dark purple or bronzy foliage at
this season. Of the large-leaved kinds, one of
the most distinct is canariensis, or large-leaved
Irish Ivy, and R.Tgneri’s variety, with leathery,
heart-shaped foliage, is also handsome. The
Bird’s- foot Ivy (pedata) is curious, as it cliDgsto
the stones like delicate leaf embroidery, and for j
ihining green leafage but few equal the one J

Digitized by

Gck gle

Irish Ivy (H. canariensis).
VARIOUS FORMS OF IVY.

Bird’s-foot Ivy (H. pedata)

fine-leaved kind, the form dentata producing
foliage even still larger when well grown. For
making low evergreen edgings on the turf, for
carpeting banks, the covering of bare walls and
old tree stumps, we have no other evergreen
shrub so fresh and variable, or so easily cultivated
as are these forms of the Ivy green. Perhaps
one reason why the finer kinds of Ivy are com¬
paratively uncommon is the fact that a strong
prejudice exists against Ivy in many minds. It
is an erroneous notion that Ivy injures build¬
ings against the walls of which it is planted ; it

been profitably performed from the end of
October until now. Doubtless this long spell of
suitable weather for such purposes has been
turned to good account by rosarians, not only in
making new plantations, but in lifting and re-
1 planting old beds and borders of Roses. Where
the latter are grown to perfection the treatment
of the plants as a permanent crop must be almost
abandoned. No crop exhausts the soil or
renders it unfit for perfect growth sooner than
the Rose. Though faith in the theory of the
excrementation of roots must be abandoned, yet

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

486

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 6, 1884

root sickness assuredly cannot always be traced
to any exhaustion of the soil. The earth seems
to get tired of the Roses, and in such cases,
where a change of Bite is impossible, the next
best thing is to force the roots into new channels,
by transplantation. If at the same time liberal
additions of maiden soil or fresh compost can
be added to the land so much the better ; but,
as I have shown elsewhere, the mere root dis¬
turbance incidental to lifting and replanting
often proves a powerful and much-needed
stimulus to new and more vigorous growth..

Root lifting places the feeding extremities
in a new place, which is almost equivalent in
not a few instances to fresh soil. The exhaus¬
tion of the latter when and where it really takes
place is mostly accomplished piecemeal. The
roots of Roses seldom permeate or exhaust the
entire mass of earth, hence the vital importance
of the redistribution of roots that results from
transplantation. The change of place brings
them a change of food, or more abundant sup¬
plies. But transplantation does more and better
than this ; it multiplies the numbers, and im¬
proves the quality of the roots ; it thus augments
the power of root force by a compound process ;
the one root becomes many bv the simple
means of transplanting, and oy the same
process the absorptive energy of the roots is
quickened, and their powers indefinitely en¬
larged.

Manuring. —When maiden soils and fresh
composts are added to the soil, or when the
Roses are placed in new beds and borders, the
roots are in that case furnished with full supplies
of freBh food which is speedily utilised for the
benefit of the plants. No transplanting can be
done without an interregnum as to growth. But
this, where the operation is skilfully performed,
is of much shorter duration than is generally
supposed, and is followed by such abnormal
activity of root growth as to quickly and more
than compensate the plants for their forcible
arrestment of progress. The best season for
the planting and transplanting of Roses is that
included from October 15th to the end of
November. Roots detached from the soil or
disturbed at that season hasten to grip it anew
and possess it again a9 quickly as possible.
Still, with open weather such as we have now,
such operations as the planting and transplant¬
ing of Roses may still be proceeded with ; the
benefit will be less marked than if it had been
done sooner, but it will still prove beneficial. A
surface mulch sufficiently thick to preserve the
roots frost-proof is, however, more essential to
success in winter and spring than in autumn
planting. The roots have now less time to re¬
establish themselves than if moved in the early
autumn, and hence the need of greater care
against their being forcibly arrested by frost.
Nor is a stoppage the only or worst evil to newly-
moved roots. Their abnormal activity brings
with it unnatural tenderness ; hence an equal
degree of cold is far more injurious to recently-
disturbed than to old-established roots, and
hence also the need of more thorough and secure
mulching. Finally, the

Easy and safk transplantation of Roses
places a new and valuable power in the hands
of the landscape gardener and decorator. It
places valuable formative and colouring material
within his reach, to be placed where and in what
proportion he pleases. The larger trees and
other subjects in our landscapes are of necessity
fixtures. Roses have also been too generally
associated with the permanent furniture of
gardens. By treating them as easily mobile,
dashes of colour, changes of form, and the most
delightful odour could be thrown in where
wanted, or removed from points where not
needed. ‘ D. T.

Striking Rose cuttings.— I prefer June
and November for this operation. We take
well-matured growths with a heel, the cuttings
are then shortened back to 10 inches ; then
make a small trench, 8 inches deep, and fill it
in with river sand ; then plant the cuttings in
lines, 12 inches apart and 3 inches between the
plants, inserting them so that two or three eyes
are exposed above ground; tread the soil
firmly around the cuttings, and keep the bed
moist until the cuttings have assumed the
character of cuttings. In this way I have struck
nineteen out of every twenty cuttings. In June
we make up a hotbed in a shady corner and

iqitized b'i

hotbecl in a shady <

Go gli

put a frame, and then we fill pots with river
sand, take young shoots, 4 inches long, with a
heel, put six cuttings in a 4-inch pot, water them
freely, then plunge them to the rim in the
frame. In fourteen days we examine all the
cuttings, and if any have made the least root
we pot them off in 4-inch pots, and place them
back in the frame till well rooted ; then we
examine them every few days, and pot off the
same as soon as they have rooted through ; we
pot them in 6 inch pots, and put them in a cold
frame, and give them plenty of air for two or
three weeks; then we stand them outside till
frost comes; we then take them into a cold frame
again, and plunge them up to the rim, and give
no air through winter, until April, and then
plant them out early in May.— J. G. Rawdon.

FRUIT.

RENOVATING OLD FRUIT TREES.

The common plan adopted by the inexperienced
w hen making changes in their fruit houses and
gardens is to root out old trees and substitute
young ones. In the case of useless varieties
this is the best plan ; but with good sorts, with
which no fault is found except perhaps that
they are in a weak state or unfertile, such sum¬
mary measures should not be adopted without
due consideration. Old trees can be renewed
to a considerable extent by judicious manage¬
ment, because, owing to their habit of growth,
they put on new tissue every year, and by
promoting vigorous growth through generous
treatment a new' layer of bark soon accumulates
and restores vitality. It is surprising what
strides an old Peach tree, for example, will
make in the course of a few years if well nursed
root and top and allowed to develop additional
shoots and leaves. The old bark-bound branches
and limbs take a fresh lease of life, and swell and
crack with distension ; new bark will be seen to
form in the rents, and this is the first sign of
renewed vitality. Every' fresh addition of tissue
in this way acts as a further leverage of growth
in the future.

Old vines, long restricted to one short cane,
if allowed to extend, will double their growth
in a short time, unless they are very old indeed ;
but the ancient vine at Harewood House, which
fills a large vinery from end to end, responded
in this way to the fresh start given it a number
of years ago when its roots were lifted and re¬
planted, and it is now, or was lately, a fine,
fruitful vine. In the case of old trees, there¬
fore, we say renovate rather than replant, unless
things are very bad indeed, and no fear need be
entertained as to the result. I have seen and
heard of the good effects of renovation so often
that I offer this advice confidently. A house is
sooner filled with bearing wood by restoring old
vines or Peaches than by planting new trees,
provided the suicidal plan of cutting down
the trees to the bottom is not adopted at the
same time, in which case new ones might as well
be planted. Eighteen years ago the vigour and
fertility of vines here were renewed by the
simple process of draining the border afresh,
top-dressing, and giving the branches more
room ; and now no one would believe the vines
to be the same, so strong is the wood and heavy
the crops. In another case an amateur came
into possession of an old vine that almost
any gardener would have cast to the rubbish
heap at once, so weak and miserable had
it been for some twelve or fifteen years; it
was, however, retained, partially lifted, and
well seen to, and the crops it has borne for three
out of the four years since it was operated
upon have been a marvel. Old Peaches behave
just in the same way. The roots travel far,
and get down among the drainage and sub-soil;
the border gets worn out; accumulated top-
dressings laid one upon another annually, pro¬
bably quite out of reach of the roots, soon tell
a tale, as indicated by the increasing debility
of the branches; but lift these Bame roots in
autumn, lay them near the surface in sharp
good soil, thin out the shoots and regulate the
others, and give them the proper degree of heat,
and the result in one or two years will strike
the most casual observer. With moderate
cropping, one season’s growth under such con¬
ditions will work wonders, and the tree will be
saved and the house retained full of fruitful
branches, the future health and welfare of which

will depend on treatment alone. Old Apples
and Pears answer to such treatment in just
the same way. With trees radically diseased,
gummed, or cankered, it is another matter;
but for trees that are only poor and weak, or
unfruitful, there is every hope, and they
should not be discarded. The great point in
such cases is generally to find the roots and
treat them judiciously. Strong doses of
manure are of little use, unless the roots are
where they can make use of it. Feeble old
roots need lifting and laving in a generous
light mixture of loam, sand, and refuse, peat,
or leaf-mould in equal quantities. In this they
soon root afresh, producing multitudes of young
fibres where there were none before, and after¬
wards they can be nourished by stronger diet.

_ S. W.

Digging among Strawberries.—This
is a practice which is most iujurious ; it breaks
and destroys the roots, the most active portions
of which are generally to be found near the
surface, and these ought to be encouraged and
fed by top-dressings of old Boil or manure ; at
this season the latter should be short and decom¬
posed, and put on so as not to bury up the
crowns while it is made to lie snugly around
them. Applied in this way it encourages the
formation of fresh feeders at the base of the
plants, which, as Strawberries grow so much
out of the ground at that point, is a great help
to them when sending up their blossoms and
perfecting their fruit. This is the reason why
spare rich soil is so good for them during the
winter, and not only is that and the manure
beneficial in the manner stated, but they protect
the plants greatly from cutting winds and hard
weather, the combined influences of which often
cripple them sadly and weaken their powers for

f rowing. Another thing that affects Straw-
erries injuriously is the stripping off their old
foliage (their winter’s dress), which should be
left to shelter them, and this, when it is allowed
to remain, it does in a way nothing else can do,
as the young leaves gradually push up under
and find their way through when they get a
little hardened and can take care of themselves.
—S. D.

Canker In Apple trees.— From my
experience with Apple trees I am convinced that
canker oftener arises from the presence of
insects on the bark than from the roots being in
soil that they do not like, although this latter ia

f enerally supposed to be the cause of the evil.

rom close watching and examination I find
only those trees subject to canker that have
been attacked by American blight or other
parasitical insects that live on the bark. The
latter must be kept clean if the plants are to be
maintained in good health. There are various
ways of doing this, one being to syringe them
periodically with fresh limewash, used when hot,
immediately after slaking ; it then does its work
effectually, clearing off Moss, Lichen, and
insects that are on the branches, and leaving
them bright and polished after being well
washed by the rain. For American blight I
know of nothing better than paraffin, mixed in
the proportion of a pint or so in 4 gallons of
water, and applied to the bark or places in
which the insects lurk. The paraffin is so
searching and penetrating that it dissolves
them at once, and destroys all eggs that may be
in the crevices where the old brood lurks. For
the last two or three years we have depended
on the fumes of burning sulphur as an insecti¬
cide and cleanser of fruit trees, and nothing can
answer better; it is sudden death to all para¬
sites, and does not in the least injure buas or
bark, but quickly improves the appearance of
the latter and restores the trees to health.—J. S.

12269.— Keeping Grapes. — The plan I
always adopt is to take a quantity of empty wine
bottles, fill with pure rain-water, in each bottle

8 ut a few Bmall pieces of charcoal; then cut the
rapes with a piece of the shoot attached, say,

6 inches, or more ; place the shoot in the bottle.
You will have no more trouble except to ex¬
amine them occasionally and remove any decayed
berries out of each bunch (not disturbing the
bunch in the bottle). Some Grape growers re¬
commend to change the water frequently, but
this I do not agree with, preferring to leave
them undisturbed. Respecting a room to keep
them in, any good airy dry room may be
utilised in the absence of proper fruit room,

JRBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Dec. <5, 1S84.] i

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

487

the temperature ranging from 40 to 45 degs.—
Thos. Lowe,

12306 — Vine not fruiting.— Probably the reason
of this is that the variety is not suitable for the house it is
growing in. The Black Hamburgh variety will succeed in
almost any form of house. The right way is to gradually
cut out the old wood and encourage the vine to make new
wood. If vigorous young canes are produced and well
ripened they ought to show' bunches ; if they do not ripen
a higher temperature must be kept up to induce them to
do so. — J. D. E.

- From the description the vine moved appears to

have too much wood, but it is very difficult in such a case
to advise without seeing it. Cannot you get a good
practical gardener in the neighbourhood to look at it? If
it has been mismanaged in the matter of pruning, an
experienced hand is required to set it right. Once in good
trim it is easy to keep it so.— Byftjcbt.

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Forced flowers.— Where a house or pit
exclusively devoted to the forcing of flowers
for winter exists sufficiently roomy to keep pace
with the demand, it is one of the most useful
structures which a garden can possess, and in
large gardens it should be divided, to permit
of different temperatures being kept up, so as
best to answer the degrees of heat which the
various plants to be forced will bear ; for
amongst the hardy kinds of plants generally
used for winter forcing there are many, as, for
instance, Dielytras, Spirreas, and some shrubs,
that if subjected to a temperature such as
required to bring other things on at a reason¬
able rate, become so much drawn, and their
flowers so soft, that they have a poor, weedy
appearance, and flag immediately they are cut.
Those who have not had much experience in
flower forcing cannot be too often urged to
place ail such plants as well up close to the
glass as they can possibly be got ; when so
placed, they will bear much more heat without
the flowers opening soft and of little use than
if the same temperature was applied to them
when at a considerable distance from the light.
Where structures such as here indicated are
not available, all sorts of shifts have to be made
by putting the plants in early vineries and
general plant houses, where there is usually too
much heat or moisture, or both, to force most
plants of a hardy nature in a way that makes
their condition when in bloom satisfactory.
But where by necessity the work has to be done
in a temperature that is too high, the best way
of meeting the difficulty is to stand the plants
at the coolest end of the house, and to use tem¬
porary means to get them as near the roof as
possible. As a white flower, Spiraea (Hoteia)
japonica is most useful; immense quantities
are now brought from abroad in the same way
as Lily of the Valley ; they are to be bought
cheap, and the advantage in their case over that
of home grown stock is that they usually come
iu quicker with less forcing, no doubt consequent
on the more sunny climate they have been grown
in and their earlier maturity. Where this
Spirma is wanted in as soon as it can be got,
the plants should be put in heat early, as there
is no certainty of their uniformly coming into
flower within the same time under similar con¬
ditions of heat, Dielytras must not be kept too
warm, especially at this early season, or the
Btems become drawn, and the flowers are meagre
and washed-out in colour. Hyacinths, Tulips,
Narcissi, Scilla sibirica, and Crocuses should
now gradually be put in warmth to succeed the
Roman Hyacinths and the earliest larger kinds.
Hyacinths in glasses for rooms, when the Moss
or water used has got fairly occupied by roots,
should be put in a little warmth. Lily of the
Valley, sufficient in proportion to the demand,
should be started once a fortnight; this plant,
if the crowns or clumps have been well pre¬
pared will stand as much heat as almost any¬
thing in cultivation.

Hardy shrubs for forcing.— Amongst
hardy shrubs there are few that are more beau¬
tiful, or that can be brought into flower with so
little forcing as the Laurustinus, its natural
season of blooming favouring early development.
The best practice with this plant is to grow a
sufficient number permanently in pots; stan¬
dards, dwarf or tall, such as are in favour on the
Continent, are both pretty and useful, admitting
as they do of being arrangec} in greenhouses and
conservatories so as tc/ stand ar t > other (

plants, thus relieving the otherwise formality.
Where plants are not kept permanently for the
purpose, small bushy examples from the
shrubbery or reserve ground may be used. In
all cases where hardy shrubs have to be trans¬
ferred from the open ground to pots, care should
be taken to subject the roots to as little inter¬
ference as possible, otherwise it is liable to
affect the bloom. W r here its colour is not
objectionable, Azalea amccna should hold a
prominent position in hardy forced shrubs;
for freedom of flowering it has few equals.
Amongst hardy Azaleas, the mollis varieties,
being early bloomers, are the best suited
for forcing, but they must not be subjected to
too much heat, as if much hurried, the naturally
short duration of the flowers causes them to
fall in a few days after they open, especially
if the plants are put in warmth early. Of
sweet-scented flowers that will last well when
cut, there is nothing better than Lilac. If wanted
in a white or blanched condition, similar to the
French productions of this plant, the forcing
must be carried out in a darkened place, but
where the pure white colour is not an object,
there is no necessity to resort to this. The
natural substance of the flowers of Lilac, even
when produced in strong heat, is a contradiction
to that of most other things, as it is such as to

} )revent their drooping when cut; consequently,
ike Lily of the Valley, they will bear almost
any amount of heat. In selecting Rhododendrons
for early forcing, it is necessary to be careful
that the sorts are such as bloom naturally early;
any kinds, light or dark, that have a disposition
to open their flowers in the open air before the
return of warm weather is such as to admit in
ordinary seasons of their escaping frost, are the
sorts best adapted for the earliest forcing. In
the introduction to heat of all such stock as the
above, judgment should be exercised, so as to
regulate the supply in accordance with the de¬
mand. Where flowers in the quantities now all
but generally required are wanted, the means at
command in the shape of room for forcing
through the winter months are usually taxed to
the utmost, and unless care is taken not to have
more in bloom than wanted at any particular
time, there is likely to be a comparative scarcity
afterwards.

Stove winter-blooming plants. — Such
portions of the stock of Poinsettias, Euphorbias,
Begonias, Eranthemums, &c., as are intended
to bloom latest through the winter will now
require careful management so as to draw the
line in the matter of warmth between bringing
them on to bloom earlier than they are wanted
and keeping them too cool, for if the latter hap¬
pens they will be of little use. A drier condi¬
tion of the atmosphere, with only sufficient
moisture in the soil to keep the leaves from
flagging, will be found a suitable medium to
subject them to. In the case of the earliest
brought on lot of all plants that will produce a
second head of flower, such as Euphorbia jac-
quinircflora, Plumbago rosea, &c., I have found
it advisable to supply them regularly with
manure water during the time the first bloom
is being brought on ; not only does this benefit
the first flowers, but it strengthens and stimu¬
lates the plants for the second effort, which
must necessarily be in proportion with the
strength the plants have left in them.

Roses. —The supply of flowers for the first
two months in the year will so far depend upon
the condition the plants are now in, that unless
they have been kept warm enough to have made
shoot-growth and set, or be about setting, their
buds, no present treatment can remedy the de¬
fect ; but to ensure flowers even later on the heat
must be so regulated as to keep up free growth
without over- excitement. In light houses, espe¬
cially if they are considerable size, with the
plants well up to the glass, the night temperature
should be from 55 degs. toGOdegs. WithpotRoses
for winter forcing, again, snccessional bloom is of
the first importance, for, as a matter of course,
after the first head of flower is produced, unless
the plants have enough strength in them to push
strong growth, the later bloom will be wanting
unless where additional plants are brought on
to succeed the first, a course that requires both
more means and material. To keep up the
necessary vigour the plants must be regularly
fed all through the time they are bringing to
maturity their first crop of flowers, so that as
these are gathered they may at once push more

growth. Clay’s manure is the material most o '
the great growers for market use for Roses : it
is applied to the pLnts regularly every few
weeks, and they will bear it in greater quantities
than those who have not tried it would suppose ;
yet it is well not to give too much at a time, as
where the plants are overdone it sometimes
causes the leaves to fall. Continue syringing
regularly to keep down red spider. Admit
little or no external air ; if this latter advice is
scrupulously followed, there will not be much
to fear from mildew.

Flower Garden.

Roses and spring flowers. —If mulching
of these has not yet been done, it should be
forthwith. Though mulching of Roses is not
an imperative necessity, as they winter safely
without it nineteen winters out of twenty, yet
there can be no doubt of its beneficial effect in
ensuring robust growth, and for that reason
alone it should be done. For the tender Tea
and Noisette sections, any kind of a mulching
is of the utmost value ; good farmyard manure,
smoothed down with a spade, and over this a
couple of inches of Cocoa fibre refuse, is the
perfection of mulching. By w r ay of protection
to spring flowers, a thin covering of fibre is
desirable, and also for plants in the reserve
garden that are intended to make good losses in
the spring garden, or to plant out as summer
bedders ; such a surface covering, applied to
summer bedding plants that are planted out in
cold pits will save an immensity of labour in
the way of mat protection, for, as a rule, if the
frost does not get hold of the roots, the tops
of Violas and ransies, and even Calceolarias,
will stand many degrees of frost. Australian
Dracaenas, Phormiums, and any plants of similar
nature, as regards liability to injury from
severe frost, are readily protected by a covering
of fibre, leaf-soil, or cinder ashes applied to the
base of the plants, and it may almost be desirable
to mat up the tops of some of the finer plants,
but this kind of protection should be given in
such a manner that they can be quickly undone
when there is a probability of mild weather.

Bedding plants.— Old plants of Pelargo¬
niums that were lifted from the beds will now
have started into good growth, and should have
all decayed portions of stems cut off, and bad
leaves removed, and if afforded plenty of light,
and a minimum temperature of 60 degs., they will
produce good cuttings for spring propagation.
As to root moisture, till the turn of the year,
this should be rather sparingly applied, more
particularly in regard to the tricolor section,
which are somewhat impatient of too much
water at the root at this dull season of the year.
Autumn-struck plants will need little or no
watering for the next month or so, and to pre¬
vent mildew, frequently go over them to remove
all decaying leaves; give air freely when the
weather is favourable, and if it can be accom¬
panied by a little fire heat, damp will be the
more effectually expelled. The tender kinds,
such as Alternantheras and Coleus, arc no
trouble to winter where firing is plentiful, but
otherwise it is risky work, and those who can¬
not command a temperature of 65 degs. to
73 degs., had best exclude them altogether.
Keep them well up to light, and fumigate the
moment there is the slightest trace of fly and
thrips. Alternantheras and Iresines are very
liable to attacks of these insects, and if the

S lants are any ways weakly, the more quickly
o these pests increase. Finally, let all the
kinds of plants be arranged as neatly as if they
were intended for conservatory decoration, and
this apparently small matter will not only be
productive of pleasure, but serve to the better
wintering of them, as they are sure to get more
attention than they would if stood about any¬
where and anyhow. Have plenty of extra
covering at hand, in readiness for very severe
weather, such as Bracken straw or litter, to
cover up cold frames that contain Calceolarias,
Echeverias, and the like, such covering to be
left on continuously so long as the frosts last,
and not to be removed for at least a couple of
days after a thaw has taken place.

General work. —Finish up leaf raking and
stacking, sweep and roll walks, and where Moss-
grown scrape it off, or else prick up the gravel
with a fork, sprinkle over a little fresh gravel,
and roll down hard, lev«l turf, and fresh turf
bare spots under trees, also dig out old tree

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

488

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 6, 1884

stumps, and trench up ground for new trees that
are to be planted ; choice shrubs and trees should
be top-dressed as frequently as circumstances
admit of. Young Conifers—all sorts—and
Hollies are much benefited by surface dressings
of suitable material. For the latter we use old
vine border soil, and for Conifers well-decayed
manure and light, sandy loam. For the most
part, the trees that we have to top-dress are on
turf ; this, therefore, has to be rolled back, the
surface soil lightly loosened with a fork, and the
dressing is then applied. The turf is then rolled
back at once, but not beaten down, only levelled,
and thus the trees get the full benefit of all the
rain that falls. The clipping of hedges, and
trimming into form of evergreen shrubs, clearing
out of drains and haw-haws, as also the wheeling
of soil and manure, are all of them suitable
operations for frosty weather when little else
can be done out-of-doors.

Fruit.

Vines. —Examine inside borders in the early
house as soon as the buds are fairly on the
move, and, if necessary, give old vines, which
cannot be over-stimulated, a good soaking with
warm diluted liquid manure, also mulch the
roots with rotten manure; renovate the fer¬
menting material, and let the temperature
range from 50 degs. to 56 degs. at night, and
65 degs. to TO degs. by day. As old Vines
generally break well, direct syringing may be
moderated on dull days, but young ones which
have not been forced early will require more
careful management, as it not unfrequently
happens that the most prominent buds take the
lead, and unless timely attention is devoted to
bending down and sometimes rubbing out the
terminal buds, unsightly blanks will be sure to
mar the appearance of the house. When this
St Age of growth has been reached, cover the
outside borders to the depth of 18 inches with
fermenting Oak leaves ; make them very firm to
keep in the heat; place shutters or boards over,
but quite clear of the leaves.

Late Houses. —Look over hanging Grapes
two or three times a week, as this intensely
damp weather is very bad for Alicantes, Gros
Colmar, and Muscats, and one neglected berry
soon mars the beauty of a bunch. Get rid of
the foliage little by little, as it parts freely
from the vine, but do not take off any more
laterals, at least where the Grapes are to be
bottled, otherwise the wounds will give off
moisture and colour when the bunches are taken
to the dry atmosphere of the Grape room.
Ventilate freely with gentle warmth on fine
mornings. Keep the house quite close in foggy
weather, and let the temperature range from
55 degs. by day to 45 degs. at night. Make a good
selection of eyes from early prunings, and, if
young planting canes are wanted early in the

S ring, insert in sods or small 3-inch pots before
iristmas. Keep them in a cold frame for
three weeks, then place them in or over bottom
heat. Cut back to the required length, or quite
down to the pots, yearling vines intended for
planting. Dress the cuts with styptic, and keep
them in a cold house until the time arrives for
encouraging growth. If any lifting or border
making in late houses is being put off until the
Grapes are cut, take advantage of fine days for
firing the Grape room, and cut as soon as the
leaves fall from the vines ; meantime get the
compost properly mixed, ready for use, and
protect from the weather. Prune mid-season
houses, cleanse, paint, and put everything in
working order, then throw open the ventilators
at all times when the weather is not unusually
severe.

Hardy Fruit. —If frosty weather prevails,
grub up old fruit trees, cut out all the dead
wood in orchard plantations, and otherwise thin
out the branches, particularly such as are
crowded and intersect each other. All Moss or
Lichen should also be rubbed off them, and if
afterwards they can have a long splash over
with newly-slaked lime, this will prevent the
Lichen from growing again for a long time to
come, and so put an end to a convenient harbour
for insects. Usually, such orchards are on
Grass, and, in the matter of manure, are left
to take their chance, a circumstance more attri¬
butable to custom than to any real feeling that
manure is not required, which it most certainly
is in order to ensure fine fruit. A good dressing
of stable manure ought to be given every alter¬
nate year, and if th».s be scarce, booII and wood

Diaitized bvXjQ SIC

ashes form a most excellent substitute, and
should be applied now, in order that the winter
rains may wash them down to the roots before
growth commences. By thus annually devo¬
ting a few days’ labour to old orchards, they
might be made much more remunerative.

If the sorts are not the best, and the trees are
healthy, this can soon be remedied by grafting,
and when pruning good kinds the shoots should
be saved for grafts, and heeled in at the base
of the trees till required in March. The trees
that have to be grafted may be headed down at
once. Cut off all ground suckers with a spade.
Whilst the ground is hard through frost let all
wheeling of manure and soil on to the fruit
quarters be done ; also clear up all prunings,
hedge-clippings, and vegetable refuse of every
kind for burning, the aBhes from which is a
valuable fertiliser for any crop. Though it seems
wrong to prune trees in frosty weather, we have
never noted any ill-effects from it; but we would
recommend that only the commoner and hardier
kinds be done, and this solely with the view of
forwarding the work. Currants, Gooseberries,
and Pvaspberries may all be done in such
weather as that we are now experiencing with¬
out any risk of danger whatever.

Fruit trees. —In order to effectually cleanse
the trees from American blight, much pains
will have to be taken to first of all wash it off
with hot soapy water, and then to paint over
the affected parts with a strong solution
(8 ounces to the gallon) of Gishurst compound,
or a strong solution of soft-soap water and half-

f )int of paraffin oil added to 3 gallons of the so-
ution is equally effective. A greater quantity
of the oil might prove fatal, but this amount
we have proved to be both safe and a sure
destroyer of the insect.

Amongst all hardy fruits, Peaches and Cher¬
ries are the most subject to attacks of aphis
early in summer, and, by way of prevention,
these should always have a winter dressing of
the solution just named. Cherries may have it
as strong as recommended for American blight,
but Peaches should have the Gishurst at but
4 ounces to the gallon of water. The walls as
well as the trees require dressing, and these we
do with soapsuds fresh from the laundry, applied
with the garden engine. Such an annual dress¬
ing, by preventing attacks of aphis, saves a
large amount of labour and annoyance in the
early summer months, when, through pressure of
other work, it is difficult to find time to attend
to them. As soon as the frost disappears, push
to a close all arrears of draining, trenching, and
forming fruit tree borders, in order that tin
ground may get consolidated before planting
the trees, which ought now to be delayed until
February. See that recently planted trees are
securely stacked, and that both these and all
that require manurial aid should at once have a
thick covering of the best manure at command.

Vegetables.

We have cut our first dish of Asparagus. Our
cook likes it green beBt, being better flavoured
than when white. It is an easy matter to green
it after it is cooked with water in which Spinach
has been boiled, but the true Asparagus flavour
is thus lost. YVe have a capital place in which
to force it—an old Pine stove, so that by not
covering the roots above an inch deep in the soil
the light greens the Grass with little trouble.
We lift the roots from old beds, and plant young
beds early containing about the quantity we
lift for forcing; therefore, we have always a
stock for that purpose. As to Rhubarb, we
force Hawk’s Champagne—the best variety to
my knowledge—in the same pit; but we cover
the crowns a foot deep with dry Oak leaves, and the
Rhubarb comes up a fine crimson colour. Sea-
kale we force in the beds in which it grows in
the old-fashioned way, covering the crowns
with boxes with lids to them. We use leaves
only for this crop, with the exception of a bit of
long manure over the leaves to keep them in
their places. We have a large quarter of Broc¬
coli laid on their sides on the principle
that small heads are better than none; still,
I like covering up with Bracken better, as
in that way the size is not diminished, and unless
the thermometer falls below zero we are
generally safe. We also cover our Spinach
with Bracken. It keeps the leaves green.
Sharp frosts and sharp nor’-easters brown all
before them. Keep a good supply of all small
salads for use at Christmas-time.

HOUSE & WINDOW GARDENING.

Dracaena for rooms.— For room decora¬
tion Dracaena gracilis is one of the very best
Dracaenas that can be grown. It stands well
indoors, and has a very graceful appearance.
Its leaves when strong are fully 14 inches in
length, and bright green margined with a band
of purplish bronze. If plants are required for
table decoration, raise them by means of cuttings
obtained from the stem after the head has been
removed. Plants raised in this way are not so
robust as some others at first; their foliage is
narrower and even more arched than when it
attains greater strength. Where plants of a
light graceful character are required in 4-inch
pots, no plant is better or more suitable than
this Dracaena. The heads, if strong, should be
set in 5-inch or 6-inch pots, placing a little sand
at their base ; then plunge the pot containing
the head in bottom heat if practicable and let it
have a night temperature of 60 degs. YYater
should be given after insertion, and if the pot is
plunged and entirely covered with Cocoa-nut
fibre no more water will be needed until rooted.
These heads should not be placed in a close
frame ; on the contrary, they root best if treated
like Pine suckers. The foliage should be tied
up to prevent injury until rooted. By this
system not one leaf will be lost. Five-inch or
6-inch pots are large enough in which to grow
plants from 2 feet to 2 feet 6 inches high and
nearly the same in diameter, with large bold
foliage close to the soil. Plants of this descrip¬
tion are easily produced, and when the soil is
covered with Lycopods and the plant placed in
a vase as a single specimen it presents a striking
appearance. Plants raised from cuttings of the
stem never look so well for this purpose as those
raised by rooting well-developed heads, because
the former possess much smaller foliage. It is
easy to have plants for both purposes, and when
they become too large for the dinner table grow
them on until well-formed heads are produced.
The latter when taken off before insertion are
often 18 inches high. Good fibry loam and
sand with a little bonedust and soot is the
compost most suitable for this Dracaena. We
never use larger pots than 6 inch ones for this
plant, and when full of roots we feed with
artificial manure.— Manifesto.

Hyacinth bulbs in winter.— Those
living in the country well know the trouble and
unsatisfactory outcome from Hyacinth bulbs
grown for flowering in Hyacinth glasses over
winter. First, the bulb must be quite sound,
the flower bud must be Btrong, and the water
must be renewed. The easiest and most satis¬
factory plan we have ever tried is to take a
shallow glass vessel—the top of a round pre¬
serve or fruit dish is good. Fill this nearly
full of small gravel. Bed the bulbs, then, in
the mound of gravel, so that the bottom of the
bulb will be above the water line when it is
filled. All that is necessary is to suspend it by
wires and pour in a little additional water from
time to time as it dries away. The growth and
bloom will be satisfactory. Our plan is to
start the bulbs in the cellar in earth, and
transfer them carefully to the hanging recep¬
tacle filled with gravel and water, when they
have made about half an inch of roots. Thus
they will give fully as good bloom as if grown
in pots, and with less trouble in watering.

Bignonla radlcana.— This is one of the
most showy and striking of all hardy climbers,
but although that is so, it does not appear to
be much grown or known, as it is seldom one
meets with it anywhere. In colour the blossoms
are a reddish brown, and long and tube-shaped,
after the manner of a Gloxinia, which they
greatly resemble in form. As this Bignonia is
not over hardy, it is necessary to plant it in a
sheltered situation fully exposed to the sun, as its
ability to withstand the sharp frosts of winter
depends much on how the young wood and
stems ripen and harden ; if these are mature,
they seldom get killed so far back as to prevent
the plant from breaking again and growing on
as before. To make sure of the main trunk and
base being kept safe, it is a good plan to pro¬
tect those parts by tacking a mat up in front;
the crown should also have a heap of half-
rotten leaves laid close around, as, being excel¬
lent non-conductors, no frost can get tnrough
to injure that vite.l part or the roots,-^33. D.

Dec. 6, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

489

INDOOR PLANTS.

CATE HEATHS AND THEIR CULTURE.
Amongst the host ot plants amenable to pot
culture it U a question if there are any which
combine bo many desirable properties os the
Cape Heaths, furnishing, as they do, every shade
of colour from the purest white to the deepest
crimson and several shades of yellow. The
flowers, too, are produced in the greatest pos¬
sible profusion, and in the case of many kinds
they are more than ordinarily enduring. Even
when not in bloom the dense healthy foliage,
embracing every shade of green, never fails to
give to a collection of Heaths a charm such as

require peat to grow in, their extremely fine,
h&ir-like roots not taking to any other description
of soil. The peat must also be good in quality
and of dry consistence, containing a fair amount
of vegetable fibre. Nothing of a soft, boggy
character will answer. a

Propagation. —This is effected by means of
cuttings made of the points of the half-matured
shoots, such as are obtainable in the case of
most kinds in the latter part of the summer.
These should be closely inserted in 5-inch or
C-inch pots filled with a mixture of finely-sifted
peat and sand, the surface being all sand ; the
cuttings must be kept moist, closely covered
with propagating glasses, shaded, and placed in
an intermediate house or pit until well-rooted,

a shift by way of settling the new soil about its
roots, in the way sometimes recommended in
the case of newly-potted plants of various kinds,
as such a proceeding is not unlikely to destroy
the delicate points which, to some extent, un¬
doubtedly get more or less bruised in the
removal, although unapparent to the ordinary
observer. The young stock should be set in a
light position near the side of the house or pit
which they occupy. Avoid putting them on
bare, dry shelves, as is sometimes practised, as
these help to dry up quickly the small amount of
soil which the little pots contain. In place of
this set them on a stage covered with an inch
or two of sand or fine ashes, which, being kept
slightly moist, will reduce the frequent necessity

SPECIMEN OF ERICA CAVENDISHIANA, AS SEEN AT THE LONDON FLOWER SIIOWS. (FROM A PHOTOGRAPH.)

few families of plants can lay claim to. Nor
1 are there in the whole range of cultivated
l plants any that have more readily responded to
I the requirements of the hybridiser, or that have
I yielded such great variety in form, colour, and
ner&l appearance. Heaths, indeed, all but
ncircle the year with their wax-like flowers.
Two or three of the old nursery firms, the names
which were once familiar to the gardening
orid, made the raising of new varieties a
lifcy. Prominent amongst these were
j?airbairn, of Clapham. and Rollison, of Tooting,
> which may be added Mr. Turnbull, of Both-
*ell Castle, the best of whose hard-wooded
nmmer and autumn-flowering varieties are not
rarpassed by those of any witp have tried their
in the raising ofjnew

which will be before spring, dispensing with the
glasses as soon as sufficient roots exist to support
them. By March the young plants should be in
a state for potting off, putting them singly in
small pots well drainea, a condition of vital
importance in all stages of the existence of
Heaths, without which disease, or more
frequently actual death, is certain to overtake
them. For this first potting the material should
consist of finely-sifted peat, with a liberal
addition of sharp, clean Band, pressing the soil
moderately firm in the pots. Care should be
taken that the soil is fairly moist, but not too
much so, when the plants are put in it, so as to
avoid the necessity for giving water as long as
possible until the roots have begun to act.
Never give water to a Heath immediately after

of giving water, and also prevent their getting
too dry.

Ventilation.— Heaths are air-loving subjects,
requiring more than most plants, but until the
young stock get fairly into growth they must
not have too much given them ; for this reason
they must be kept a little close until they begin
to move freely, and as the sun gets powerful it
may be necessary to afford them a thin shade
for a few weeks. As soon as they commence to
grow pinch out the points of the shoots, so as to
ensure their branching out low enough, with¬
out which it is impossible to have them well
furnished at bottom. The size attained during
the first summer will depend on the varieties ;
soft wooded quick-growing kinds like the winter
flowering E. hyemalii and other- of that class

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

490

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Dec. 6, 1884.

make much more progress than the hard-wooded
kmds, and amongst these even there is a wide
difference in the rate of growth. As the season
advances give more air, allowing some to
remain on in the night in summer ; during dry,
hot weather the stock should be looked over, as
to water, twice a day. Keep them well up to
the glass in order to secure stout, well-matured
growth, giving plenty of air, but not subjecting
them to keen draughts. Through the autumn
and winter let them have a light position
where they can be kept a few degrees above
freezing. During the dormant season let the
atmosphere be dry, and now, as at all other
times, never give water until the soil is so dry
that its longer being withheld would be likely
to cause injury. Again, early in spring they
must be shifted ; 3-inch pots will be the right
size ; this time break the peat fine by hand in
place of shifting it, adding sand as before. The
strongest shoots must again have their points
pinched out, with a view to still further induce
the formation of branches. Treat them as
during the last summer in respect to air, water,
and general routine, continuing to keep them
well up to the glass.

Form of house. —A low light span-roofed
pit is well suited to the requirements of Heaths,
especially in their early stage, a3 in such a
structure they can easily be kept close to the
light, and yet in hot weather the air is not in so
dry a condition as to have a parching effect on
young plants before they get into pots holding
a larger body of soil. In summer during very
hot weather it will be an advantage to moisten
the floor of the pit, which will correct the over-
dry state of the air, for although Heaths do not
like a damp, stagnant atmosphere in autumn
and winter, nor are they improved by the
application of water overhead, yet under glass
it may be drier than is good for them. Treat
through the winter as before, and again give
them a shift early in spring. The advantage
of potting Heaths, especially whilst small,
early enough before the external air has got hot
and dry, is that there is less likelihood of their
suffering through the effects of removal than if
the operation is deferred until latter on.

Stopping and training. —Again pinch out
the points of all the strong shoots, and in addi¬
tion to this the strongest must be tied out
horizontally close down to the rims of the pots.
This has a double advantage in throwing the
strength into the weaker growth left in an erect
position, and of ensuring the dense bushy habit
natural to Heaths generally, and which they
would assume without assistance if growing in
the open air. Use the soil now in a less
finely broken condition than previously, and
at each subsequent potting, as the plants get
larger, it should be used in a still more lumpy
state. The additional size of pots given
should be regulated by the strength of the
plants and the more or less vigorous habit of
the variety ; soft-wooded, quick growers attain
size sufficient to make them attractive much
sooner than the hard-wooded sorts, and amongst
these there is as much difference in the rate of
growth as there is in the ultimate size which they
attain. It is well to avoid the extreme of too much
pot-room or the opposite of too little. At this
stage 2-inch additional sized pots for the slow-
growera will be sufficient, whilst the freest will
bear a 4 inch shift. This season a few small
sticks will be requisite to tie the strongest shoots
out so as to train the plants to the desired shape,
but now,and in all subsequent stages, do not use
more supports than cannot be dispensed with,
as the act of thrusting sticks into the soil has
the inevitable effect of destroying more or less
of the roots, and the use of more than is required
directly tends to destroy the appearance which
the plants should have either in or out of flower.
This season, towards the close of the summer,
they will be all the better for having the lights
drawn off them in fine weather, by which means
their growth will get better matured, a con¬
dition still more necessary in after years as the
plants acquire greater size. The larger they get the
more are they liable to be affected with mildew,
the worst enemy that attacks Heaths, and one
which it is necessary to continually guard
against. The best preventive is a good light
house to grow them in, keeping them as near
the glass as possible, with plenty of air when¬
ever the weather will permit, and full exposure
to sun and air through August and September.

igitized by\j0(

majority of growers will doubtless prefer to buy
them of the ordinary trade size, the subsequent
treatment of which requires to be in no way
different from that here described, simply
giving them a shift each spring into pots pro¬
portionate in size to their condition and the
variety to be dealt with. When the plants
have reached half specimen size, if given a good
shift when potted, they will not require moving
every season, but they should not be allowed to
remain more than two years without additional
room until they have attained something like
full size, after which they may be kept in a
sufficiently vigorous condition by the use of
manure water during the growing season.

Potting. — The mischievous, antiquated
practice of loosening the outside of the ball
with a pointed stick or similar instrument
should never be resorted to. It is useless and
highly injurious, as it cannot be done without
bruising and breaking quantities of roots, the
effect of which is that many plants so treated
are some time before they make much progress,
and not unusually they die off altogether, though
often not so soon after the operation as to lead to
the supposition of what is the real cause. As the
specimens attain size they are better for being
placed out-of-doors for six oreight weeks towards
the close of summer, in which case they should
always be placed in a position where they will
be fully exposed to light and sun and sheltered
from rough winds. A bed of coal ashes should
be placed under them to keep out worms, which
on no account must be allowed to get possession
of the soil, or the roots cannot be kept in health.
When so turned out the outsides of the pots
must always be covered with pieces of mat,
canvas, or something of a similar character to
ward off the sun, otherwise the young roots
which lie thickly against the inner surface are
certain to be injured by the drying influences
they are thus subjected to. There is one matter
connected with the cultivation of Heaths that
has hitherto not been sufficiently urged ; that
is, that immediately they have bloomed the
flowers should be removed, and not, as they
often are, allowed to remain on the plants until
seeds have been formed. Few cultivators, it
would appear, have ever observed or noted how
differently Heaths that have borne a full crop of
bloom start into growth again when the flowers
are picked off as soon as they have faded
compared with others on which they have been
allowed to stay until seeds are formed. The
latter process seems to tax their powers even
worse than the development of the bloom ;
consequently immediately the flowers are dead
they ought te be removed.

Habit of growth.— The varieties that an¬
nually make a considerable length of wood, such,
for instance, as some of the tricolors when
vigorous, E. Austiniana, E. Irbyana, E. cerin-
thoides coronata, E. jasminiflora alba, and many
others of a like habit should at once, after bloom¬
ing, have the shoots cut back to about half or
one-third the length formed the preceding year ;
this is necessary to prevent their getting too tall
and straggling whilst yet young enough to be
useful. If this is not done it necessitates shoot¬
twisting, so objectionable in appearance when
the plants are trained. Kinds that make only
short growth each season, like the varieties of
E. ariatata, E. icmula, E. elegans, E. retorta
major, E. Marnockiana, E. depressa, and a host
of other slow-growing kinds, require no cutting
back, or rather would be injured by it, and
immediately the blooming is over they should
have the flowers picked off, not giving time for
seeds to form. Strong free growers, such as E.
Cavendishiana, E. affinis, E. vestita, E. hyemalis,
E. Wilmoreana, and others of similar habit will
bear cutting back freely, in some cases even into
the strong wood, and often after this has been
done to the extent of reducing the plants to half
their size, they make free growth ; whereas if
the Blow growing, very hard-wooded sorts were
cut back in this way they wonld be all but sure
to die at once.

Watering. —The most difficult matter in
Heath culture is knowing into what condition
of dryness the soil ought to be allowed to get
before water is given. Even in the growing
season the slowest growing hard-wooded sorts
Bhould never be watered whilst there is much
moisture in the soil; otherwise they are not
likely to remain long in a healthy condition.
The quicker-growing sorts, although impatient
of too much moisture, will not bear the soil

being allowed to get so dry before water is
applied as the hardest-wooded kinds require it
to be. A want of studying the requirements
, of the different sections of this beautiful family
j of plants has often led to failure, and to it may be
' attributed their being less generally grown than
' they deserve to be.

Varieties. —Thefollowing selection comprises
some of the most desirable kinds :—

E. Cavendishiana, E. depressa, E. metuTacflora, E. tri¬
color Barnesi, E. t. Holfordi, E. t. elegans, E. t. coronata,
E. t. Wilsoni, E. t. profusa, E. ventricosa coccinea minor,
E. v. grandiflora, E. v. auperba, E. v. Bothwclliana, E. v.
magnifies, E. Parmenticri rosea, E. venosa, E. Savillii
major, E. retorta major, E. Shaanonl, E. S. glabra, E.
Paxtoni, E. obbata, E Marnockiana, E. Irbyana, E. Ans-
tiniana, E. McNabiana rosea, E. Lindleyana, E. insignia,
E. Farrieana, E. exquisite, E. elegans, E Devonians, E
cerinthoides coronata, E C.utdolleana, E. ariet&ta major,
E. nmpullacea obbata, E. *mula, E. odora roaea, E. hye¬
malis, E. Wilmoreana, E. Sindryana.

The above by no means exhaust the list of
good and handsome Heaths, yet they are the
cream, and anyone growing them will have a
succession of flowers nearly all the year round.
The accompanying illustration represents a well-
grown, well-flowered example of E. Caven¬
dishiana (grown by Mr. Cole, The Cottage,
Exeter), one of the best decorative Heaths in
cultivation. T. B.

WHEN TO POT LILIUM AURATUM.

Everyone has a right to praise the bridge that
carries him safely over, and if “ F. D. P.”
succeeds in obtaining good growth and fine
flowers by his system of culture, he should be
content, and I, perhaps, ought not to adversely
criticise it. At the same time, I cannot help
pointing out that, instead of following Nature,
your correspondent is acting in some measure in
opposition to her teachings. Thus we know
that no Lily ever absolutely rests, but continues
to make roots all the year round. Some bulbs
which ought not to be died off come into a
complete state of rest in winter—that is to say,
the roots as well as tho top remain stationary’.
But this is by no means the case with Lilies,
the root actiou of which is progressive, even
when top-growth has completely ceased. If
after the stems have died down you keep the
soil just moist you will on examination perceive
that the fibrous roots not only remain white
and healthy in appearance, but they continue
to work, slowly it is true, but none the
less marked; how, then, can it be right
to cause these roots to perish, which is the direct
effect of allowing the soil to remain dry for a
period of two months or more ? A few days
ago I turned some bulbs out of the pots in which
they had bloomed, and in some instances the
bulbs were a thickly laced mass of white roots,
so that instead of putting them asunder and
separating the bulbs, I simply shifted them
bodily into larger pots. Now, by keeping the
soil just moist through the winter, I shall
find that by April, at the latest, the roots will
be touching the sides of the pots in all directions.
Therefore, when young growths appear, they
will have the benefit of the food these roots
draw up at once, and will push up with greater
vigour than if such roots had to be made whilst
growth was progressing. What Nature pre¬
serves we have no right to destroy, and where
Lilies remain in the ground all the year through
their roots certainly never feel drought, being,
many of them, a foot or more deep in the soil.
Sometimes, in the case of imported bulbs and
others which do not make very strong growth,
and which consequently fail to fill the pots with
roots, I see nothing much to be gained by re¬
potting. Disturbing the roots means loss of
time and growing force. Why do it if fresh soil
is not urgently needed ? I had this year some
large plants of speciosum rubrum and album,
the flower-stems of which were 5 feet high, and
which were not repotted last year at all. I have
some this year that I shall not in any way dis¬
turb, and I have no fear of their not blooming
well. Auratum is much more deli cate-rooted,
than speciosum and others, and I believe would i
often do better if not repotted oftener than every
other year. My plan is to repot os early in i
November as possible, in fact, the sooner it can
be done after the stems die down the better. I
drain the pots well and sprinkle a little soot on
the cracks to keep out worms; a watering is then \
given to moisten the soil through, and the pots
are stood in a frame for the winter. If they can
be plunged quite to the rims fto much the better,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

1

Dec. 6 , 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

stfcrt'into^growth, wh'T!^ J£L£*5£ K«: "■** a °«> a ‘“<>" maybe put under the

• j .T . , ' --- w aaavrwv Ulliawuio UVOUi i^ClUVY

convinced tnat only in this way can tbe full is a list of those I have proved are worth grow-
development of the Lily under pot culture be ing out of the number which I have tried,

CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR SMALL
GREENHOUSES.

pot culture be ing out of the number which I have tried, 12*289.— Lapageria alba failing.— There
J. Corxhill. placing them in their different classes in order of a . re two varieties of Lapageria alba in cultiva*

_ merit:— tion, perhaps more. The best variety grows

OR SMALL Early-flowering Pompones. f 101 * 6 vi fJ°rou8ly than L. rosea, and under the

, Lyon, bright rosy purple, Prccocite, yellow brie °fill agaU,8t . the waU °j *P»»-

grand flower La Petite Marie, white, very } 10U , 8e would^fiU up a given space first. The

ow in full swing g“ un h creamy white, good dwarf * best soil is turfy peat, and it is evident if a

sea the attention * ™„ enck Pc,e ' brlffht crim ‘ f!." 3 ® 11 ?® Jo i" art * whito P lant refuses to grow when the conditions in tho

enmany varieties Q l irginla * whlte ' house are favourable that the peat must be of

ssible for youn* „ _ . , Semi - early PoMroNES. bad quality. The Lapageria alba being a

. v P Mr«. nil innrfnrd wkRn I Cie^An T ... U : 1 ~ wolnohln rvlnni «4- ____

The Chrysanthemum season is now in full swing, p tt ”, un h creamy white, good dwarf

and at the present time monopolises the attention Pc,e ’ br,ght crim ‘ J w o3 ™ rt * whit ®

of the flower-loving public. The many varieties o p ’

now grown make it nearly impossible for young M „ 1M Se mi-early Pompones.

_i_j__i * ii r ► Mrs. Onl imrfnrd whifp I fticfnn .

amateurs having only small greenhouses, and” M Sip„rtM 1 K?r 1, white ’ Lapierre, white, sirai- valuable plant, it would be better to put some

therefore, room for onlv a small collection, to U xeige, white, very good PrSdent^y pUrpl^ ** ** r f ou .^ d ^vf 00 ^ 8 they , , W ? uld

pick out the sorts which would suit them best k 0, Vier gc, white, very good Aigle d’Or, bright yellow probably root into it, and the plant would show
if not assisted in some way. They, perhaps, Scour Melaine, white. by its growth whether the old soil was in fault,

solve the difficulty by visiting a Chrysanthemum Ordinary Pompones. d *

show (maybe for the first time), so that they Golden Madame Marthe, fine t Crushed Strawberry salmon 12297.— Maiden-hair fronds fading.—

-^-,— - *. 1 -■ * ’ They shrivel because they have been grown too

warm and moist, and are, therefore, too fragile

may find out for themselves the names of the

pink, new colour

best sorts in cultivation. As soon as they enter R^!f' n n c f Ma fl thc, v? ne v whito £ ann J'y fln ® dec P crimson warm and moist, and are, therefore, too fragile
the hall or exhibition room they make their way fl “° blu8h KS&bL to last good when cut. Probably, too. they hive

as last as the crowd will allow for the cut bloom Nellie Painford, fine buff Miss Wheeler, carmine had too much shade and too little air. Grow
stages. Pencil and paper are out instantly. yellow, sport from Rosi- Prince Victor, dark maroon them from May onwards, without artificial heat,
Presently an exclamation is heard— 11 My word, stTichael, fine deep vellow K yenow^fork’ed rim80n * nd give P lent y of air in fine weather, and only shade
what a beauty ! I’ll put that name down for Prince of Orange, fine bronze Marabout, white, fringed from bot 8Un * Then you will get fronds not so
one. Look here, isn’t that grand ?” Down orango improvement on Toussaint Maurisot, rosy large and not quite so deep in hue, but which
another name goes. “ Why, this one is better lilac ^ whitc * quiUed * will keep good for days in a cut state. Another

■till!” and that name goes down as well; and ““‘.“ Lite, well known hint: After cutting lay them in water for a few

so on until the names of about three dozen good Anemone Pompones. hours; this is what the market growers do

exhibition sorts are written down before they have Calliope, ruby, distinct I Antonias, yellow. before sending them away. It is, of course,

seen one half of the collection. (Perhaps at the Mr- Astie, yellow, good | understood that only the mature fronds are

hint: After cutting lay them in water for a few
hours; this is what the market growers do
before sending them away. It is, of course,
understood that only the mature fronds are

seen one half of the collection. (Perhaps at the Mr. Astie, yellow, good | understood that only the mature fronds are

outset accommodation for a score of plants only The above varieties are all of them good. The taken. From October on, the plants should get
can be found.) . Then there is a pause, and first two in the early flowering class, the first a constant temperature of about 50 degs., then
finally the pencil and paper are put back four in the semi-early flowering class, the first they remain green through the winter.—J. C. B.

again in the pocket in a despairing sort of seven in the ordinary Pompone class, and the - The reason tho fronds fade is that they are not

way. At first all the sorts marked down first two in the Anemone class, are the pick of matured. If they are cut in a very weak state they soon
are vividly impressed in the memory, but after the lot, and ought to be in every collection. fade - The ,r ? nda do not laat 80 lon £ in a cut state from
promenading the room two or three times Amateurs, in many cases, make a great winu house as they do when grown

the eyes begin to get tired at the brilliancy and mistake when building their houses by making ' ...

diversity of colour to be seen. Next the eyes them too narrow'to allow of room for a movable 1229o. Pncenocomaproliiera. Itseems

have to be rubbed a time or two to freshen them stage in the centre of it. As is well known, the 8 u ai i? e yo ^ plant having grown so well

np ; but it is no use, the varied colours at centre of the house is the warmest, and also 8 u°uld not have bloomed, but it may do^ so next
last tires Nature out, and make them return the highest in a span-roofed structure, and 8 P rua 8*. By no means shift it now ; this is the
home. As soon as that place is reached out where the width of a house will allow of a worst . tame of the year to be repotting plants,
comes the paper to scan over the names, centre stage it ought by all means to be ? s P e ® l& By hard-wooded ones, as. the top being
It perhaps happens that while so enea^ed an so arranged as to enable tall plants. such as inactive, and the roots almost so, it cannot utilise

it a good one ?” “It was splendid—magnificent; blooms where they can be better seen than is P. r ??f r to , S T ft P la ? ts of thia 18

never saw anything like it. You've missed a possible on the side benches, and also, when the ? he middle , of .March, but older specimens should
treat. Look at the names I have marked stage is in, it is very useful for a group of be repotted after blooming, just as growth corn-
down. ” “ My gracious ! you have got a list. Are Liliums, the blooms of which, having a tendency mence8 » and only if the pots are well filled with
they all good ones?” “Yes.” “By-the-bye, what to hang down, are better able to be shown off. r °ots. Only good fibrous peat should be used,
colour do you call that one ?” pointing to Elaine T TT and the drainage must be perfect, as it is a

“ Why, let me see,” after a pause, “1 think it is Large Flowered Varieties. plant that quickly suffers from an overdose of

a white one, but I’m not quite certain. The Some araat eurs may prefer to grow the large water. For a time great care must be taken

fact is, I saw so many sorts and colours which flowered varieties where sufficient accommoda- in watering so as to keep the soil in a free open
took my fancy, that before I had got half round tion can be had for them. The following is a condition. Place in a light position where air
the exhibition I was completely mixed up and liat °* two dozen choice sorts, including can be admitted freely in fine weather, but avoid
now I can’t tell one sort from another’’—and Ja P ane8e » incurved, reflexed, and Anemone draughts. During spring all the sun and light
so it is, too much of a good thing at one time. 8orts ; — possible should be admitted, but later on in hot

Most amateurs have not got greenhouses suit- Elaine, pure white, Japanese Mrs. Dixon, gold yellow, in- weather a little shade during the middle of the

able to grow the large flowered varieties in in Madame c - Audiguier, deep curved day will be found beneficial, that is if the house

consequence of the house being too low’to ST®’ Japane8e ’ very primrose, is facing south. Frames are, however, best for

accommodate them,as some of the best incurved Peter the Great, largo ycl- Miss Mary Morgan, pale the growth of this class of plants, as.there they
exhibition varieties are not worth a place in the low * Ja P ane8e pink, incurved can be exposed to the full air at times. The

collection if they are not grown on strong—for and Refulgenc J ! ’ purple maroon * 8 reat P° int “ to encourage a full strong growth

instance, those grand sorts, Empress of India, Fa^ Mald ToTernsey, pure Prince,f Wales pale a * d ripen this by full exposure in the open when

Golden Empress of India, September.—J. C., Byjlcet.

pale yejjow, incurved — When this greenhouse flowering plant grows well,

Hero of Stoke Newington, it is Bure to flower well. It will not flower well, how-
rosy pink, incurved ever, unless it is placed near the glass during the time of

shaded crimson, Japanese Prince Alfred, rose carmine, its growth. It must not be shaded much in summer, and
il Desperandum, orange incurved in autumn not at all. A plant in a 14-inch pot and only

ve ry ragged, the bottom petals iucurving, and PUfe Whit6 ’ Emp^of India pure ? f h ° U !, d f ’ mt ° th .® air in a8un . n /

the top ones reflexing. Therefore the best HivcV Fleur, crcam-striped whit? incurved P but sheltered place, remaining there until mid-

S ian is to grow those sorts that suit small houses pai 0 rose, Japanese Golden Empress of India, September.—J. C., Byjlcet.

est—namely, Pompones. Ja r!l C n !n M ? lter| mauve, pale yellow, incurved -When this greenhouse flowering plant grows well,

TTavinir irrnwTi n.hnnt ninatv v 0P ief; flO Jap 80686 Hero of Stoke Newington, it is Bure to flower well. It will not flower well, how-

Having grown about ninety varieties of this L Incomparable, bronze - rosy pink incurved ever, unless it is placed near the glass during the time of

Class, 1 may, perhaps, be able to name sufficient shaded enmaon, Japaneso Prince Alfred, rose carmine, its growth. It must not be shaded much in summer, and

sorts to form a collection that would please the Desperandum, orange incurved in autumn not at all. A plant in a 14-inch pot and only

most fastidious. But before leavincr th« lara* \rIf d Vi^^L VC B„ Kin *? of the 9’ ,rn ® on8 « dee P 3 feet across should not require to be repotted until after

mosi maumuuB. xmi, ueiore leaving tne large Mrs. George Rundle, pure crimson, reflexed it has bloomed next year. The plant alluded to that has

flowered section, I cannot refrain from quoting white, incurved Fleur de Marie, fine white, made good growth will doubtless flower well next year—

a piece out of the Chrysanthemum catalogue of Anemone. j. d. E.

T Ir * Pt» Vi Q T? ilf f 0rd i R ° ad Nursene8 » Camberwell, It must be borne in mind that if good blooms 12299.— Chrysanthemums.— Now is the

London, o. hi. (a large grower of all kinds of are wanted all the bulbs except the centre one time to propagate the young shoots which spring
Chrysanthemums, and whose catalogue all must be removed from each stem, and too many from the base of the old plants, which are
amateurs should possess), taken from a report stems must not be had upon one plant. Many blooming from the best enttings. Those which
in a ho <m ura journal, of a visit to tl o e amateurs are loth to do this, thinning very little, grow up the stem will also strike, but they are
8a ^ 8 i S°ine fm® blooms of and consequently ruining the lot. I find cut- not so strong, and therefore do not make such
Nil Desperandum are also notable particularly tings to root best in light sandy soil, placed good plants. Take them off as low down as
°n plants that were cut down to within 6 inches under larg0 bell-glasses in the coolest part of possible and insert them round the edge of a
of the soil in May last, the two shoots taken up the greenhouse for about a fortnight, giving a 6 inch pot in very light, sandy soil. Give a
froin each pl ft nt bearing blooms of great size and little air after that, until the glasses may be moderate watering, and place under a hand*
substance, far superior to those on other nlanfcs fab on nff nitamfimi. _ *. a. a _s_i_ _ -_ A _i_

ANA-CHAMPAIGN

492

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dbc. 6, 1884.

scarcely any water before the middle of
February, but giving air for an hour or two every
day to prevent damping. By the end of March
they will have rooted, and should then be put
into small pots, shifting them on as they require
it, and stopping the leading shoots occasionally.
Up to the middle of May they should get some
protection—a frame is the be3t place, as then
they can be exposed to the free air on fine days
—but after that time they should go into the
open air.—J. C. B.

-The reason the young shoots from the base are

coming up weakly is that they do not get light and air in
a greenhouse at a considerable distance from the glass, the
old stems and leaves also keeping light and air from them.
As soon as the plants are cut down they should be placed
in a cold frame, where they can bo freely aired. The root
growths arc the best, but stem growths will do if root
suckers cannot be obtained.—J. D. E.

12304.—Cutting- down Maiden hair Ferns.—
There is no need to cut down Maiden hair Ferns at all.
The value of such Ferns as these consists in their being
evergroen. If it was necessary to cut them down they
would not be of more value than the deciduous kinds.—
J. D. E.

-There is no need to cut them down at all. Let the

fronds remain as long as they last green, and when they
turn brown cut them out. In a cool house the fronds
generally turn brown about January and do not make new
ones until April, wheroas in a warm house they are con¬
tinually throwing up fresh fronds, and arc, therefore,
evergreen.—J. C. B.

12200.—Cutting down Ferns.— It is wrong to cut
off the fronds of Scolopendriufti vulgare cristata
periodically. They ought not to be cut off at all. As long
as they remain in a healthy green state let them alone.
It was also a mistake to cut down Adiantum Farleyense.
All that these evergreen Ferns require is to cut off any
decayed or decaying fronds. Being naturally evergreen it
is acting contrary to nature to interfere with them. —
J. D. E.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SOME GOOD VEGETABLES.

Beans. —Among these I would recommend
Beck’s Dwarf Green Gem, which is the earliest,
and as it only grows a foot high it may be sown in
rows that distance apart on any warm border or
at the foot of a wall, and a gathering made in May.
The one most desirable to succeed this is the
Seville Long-pod, which comes in before the old
Mazagan and is altogether a much larger and
finer Bean, and of superior quality cooked. To
succeed this and yield a summer supply there are
none equal to the Windsor Improved, which has
closely-filled pods, containing large flat Beans of
a mild and excellent flavour. The sorts of French
or Kidney Beana are very numerous, and among
them is a new aspirant named Ne Plus Ultra,
which gained a first-class certificate at the Chis¬
wick trial, and deserved that distinction, as
it is a remarkably fine and prolific kind that
will be much grown both indoors and
out. Another first-class Bean is the one
called Longsword, which, as its name implies,
has long sword-shaped pods, and the plants are
very free in their habit of bearing. The old long-
podded Nero still holds it own, and is a fine
summer kind, and to succeed this and carry the
supply on there are none equal to Canadian
Wonder, to do justice to which and grow it well,
the rows should be a yard apart, as the plants
are strong and require plenty of room. Among
the Scarlet Runners the Champion is the best;
this has all the good qualities of the old variety
and bears much longer pods.

Beets are best represented by Dell’s Crimson,
which is a medium-sized kind, having deep
coloured crimson-fleshed roots and highly orna¬
mental leaves, which make it worth growing
amongst other fine-foliaged plants in a bed. Bore-
ooles or Kale are not very numerous, and only two
or three are deserving of much attention, the
most desirable being the Tall Green Curled and
the Asparagus, the latter of which is late and
delicious in spring. Broccoli should be divided
into three sections, and among the earliest winter
sorts I should place Snow’s as the most valuable,
provided it can be obtained true, and next to it
Backhouse’s and Osborn’s, the only fault of the
last-named being that it is a little more tender
in the foliage than the others, and after severe
frosts apt to rot or damp, else it is a fine dwarf
self-protecting kind that produces compact heads
almost as white and delicate as those of a
Cauliflower. To succeed the above-named few
if any are better than Veitch’a Spring White
and the Penzance Early, the latter being the
kind that is so extensively grown at the Land’s
End, in Cornwall, and brought in such quan¬
tities to the London and other markets, where
it3 fine heads fetch a good pri<». Cattell’a

Google

Eclipse is a fine hardy late sort, and so firm and
woody is its short stem that frost has little
effect on the plants, which I have had stand
when nearly all others have been killed by the
cold. With all these good qualities, this variety
hasone drawback, which is that the heads are not
so white as some others, and it is likely to be
superseded by Model, which is the perfection of
a Broccoli, and stands hard winters well.

Brussels Sprouts are best represented by the
old imported kind—that is, when a good select
strain can be had, as the Sprouts, though small,
are solid, and very mild and delicious in flavour.
Those who desire a larger sort for show will
find Veitch’a Exhibition and Scrymger’s Giant
good, but to have Brussels Sprouts at th3ir best
they must be sown early, so as to get the plants
strong, and to grow them in this desirable state
they must likewise have rich, deep ground, and
plenty of room. Cabbages vary much in size
and quality, the best for early work being
Wheeler’s Imperial, which has small, compact
hearts, and is of a mild, Marrow-like flavour,
and the first to turn in for use. To succeed it
Enfield Market is superior to any, and for
autumn cutting the Rosette or Colewort is
worth growing, but if Wheeler’s is sown early in
July it will come in about the same time, and
yield much finer heads. Couve Tronchuda is a
moat delicious vegetable, and is not half as much
grown as its merits deserve, as there is nothing
equal to it for delicacy of flavour at its proper
season. Chou de Burghley is a valuable autumn
and winter Cabbage, and though it has had de¬
tractors, it will in all probability outlive them
and increase in public favour.

Two sorts of Carrots are enough for any
garden, theFrench Horn being specially desirable
for growing in frames or on borders for drawing
and using young, and James’ Intermediate for
sowing in the open quarters for soups and
affording a winter supply, for which purposes it
is far better than the Surrey, as it is short and
thick and of a capital colour. Cauliflowers are
likely to be scarce during the early part of the
season, unless provision be made against it by
sowing some of the early kinds at once, as
plants raised last year at the ordinary time are
likely to “bolt,” owing to the verymiid weather,
or if they do not head prematurely, the chances
are that they will get killed, as they are full of
growth and exceedingly tender. One of the best
to turn in quick is Veitch’s Extra Early Forcing,
and to succeed it Early London should be sown
at the same time, and if this is now done in gentle
heat and the plants are nursed on and kept well
up to the glass, they will be fine and strong for
planting out about the middle of March, at
which period a bed of Autumn Giant should be
sown and another of Walcheren, which will
come quickly after the two just named.

Of Celery there are many kinds, but for
Balads and eating uncooked, none are better than
the Sandringham Dwarf White, which is crisp,
and of a fine nutty flavour. Among the red
sorts, Major Clarke’s is the best, and stands
well and late without running to seed. If I
were only growing one sort of Cucumber, it
would be Lord Kenyon or Sion House, which
are the same, as no other variety I have ever
tasted is bo juicy and tender in the flesh, and
for show, few, if any, are equal to Telegraph,
which is a fine long handsome kind. Lettuces
vary according to the season, but for summer,
nothing better than the old Paris White Cos
can be had, and to succeed that and stand the
winter, the Bath and Hick’s Hardy Green are
the best two sorts to get. If the Cabbage kinds
are grown, All the Year Round and the Nea-

S nlitan should be chosen, but for salads the
abbage Lettuces are far inferior to the Cos, as
they are soft and flabby and lack sweetness and
flavour.

To have Onions the whole year through,
several sorts must be grown, the best for sowing
in March being the Reading, Brown Globe, and
James’s Keeping, the latter of which hang sound
and good till quite late in spring. For standing
the winter Giant Rocca is the most preferable,
as it is hardy and mild, very large, and of fine
showy appearance. To afford nice little bulbs for
pickling, the Silver Skin still keeps the favourite,
but to have them of uniform size they must be
sown thickly in poor ground on a hard bottom,
and if so managed they come up little bigger
than marbles. As a garden Parsnip I prefer the
Student, which forms nice shaped roots, smaller
than the Hollow Crown and of superior flavour.

Radishes are best represented by Wood’s Early
Frame and the red and white Turnip, and the
way to have them good is to sow small quantities
frequently, so as to be able to pull and use them
while young. To keep up a supply of Spinach
three kinds are necessary, the common Round
for early summer, the New Zealand for the
hottest weather, and the Prickly for winter.

Tomatoes are numerous, but one or two sorts
are quite enough, the best being Hackwoocl
Park and Hathaway’s Excelsior, both of which
are very smooth-shaped fruit, and attain a large
size. Among Turnips I find Snowball best for
early sowing, and Veitch’s Red Globe for general
crop and late, as it stands the heat without
getting stringy.

Peas keep multiplying, and new varieties are
constantly coming to the front, some of which
are decided acquisitions, and others not so
good as many that have been in cultivation for
years. For first sowing, I prefer Kentish
Invicta and William the First, and to succeed
these Day’s Sunrise and Advancer (both of which
are of the Marrow class, and rich and melting
in flavour) to follow on. Veitch’s Perfection is
the next best, and is altogether a grand Pea, but
should be sown thin and have plenty of depth
of soil, or it suffers from drought. Among the
tali kinds none are equal to Ne Plus Ultra, the
Peas of which are of a deep green colour, very
large, and of exquisite flavour. To come in
before this superb kind, Telephone is desirable,
and for the latest supply I still like the old
British Queen, which is of robust habit and
withstands mildew well. The way to grow it
is to dig trenches and heavily manure the
bottoms, when they should be filled in and the
seed sown by the middle of June, and when np
the ground mulched by the sides of the rows,
which will keep the roots moist and encourage
a quick, healthy growth. S. D.

TOMATOES IN POTS.

At one time it was necessary to advocate a more
extended use of Tomatoes, but now the demand
during the greater part of the season exceeds the
supply. As a rule, however, I find that London
is better supplied with them than provincial
towns, and it is to the latter I would recom¬
mend surplus fruits to be sent.

Varieties. —As to varieties, I must say that
we are getting too long a list, and this list in¬
cludes many which are of little or no real value.
As a rule the smooth, round sorts, although pre¬
ferred on the exhibition table, are inferior to the
ribbed or corrugated kinds. Absence of seeds in
the formerissometimesspokenof as being in their
favour, but their flavour is altogether inferior to
that of the ribbed sorts with plenty of seeds. Pulp,
not core, is required in a Tomato. The old dwarf
Orangefield is still one of the best flavoured sorts
which we have and a good cropper. Unfortu¬
nately, it is seldom to be procured true ; growers
should, therefore, select and preserve their own
stocks of it. For market purposes, in addition
to home use, the Large Red, or any good selec¬
tion of it, is preferable to the Orangefield, being
heavier, and therefore more profitable. Con¬
queror is also a heavy cropper, and grows to a
good size, but the colour, a rich vermilion, is
not always well brought out, and then its
appearance is against it for market purposes.
The smooth, round-fruited sorts when first intro¬
duced from America were the most attractive,
but several novelties which I have lately received
from that Tomato-loving country are doubtful
improvements on several which we already
possess, and which were raised in this country.
Among the latter, Dedham Favourite proved
well adapted for pot culture; its fruits are of
ood size, handsome, and fairly good in quality,
t replaced Hathaway’s Excelsior, and in its
turn, unless I am much mistaken, will be
superseded by the new Hack wood Park Pro¬
lific. Judging from what I saw of this variety
when exhibited at South Kensington, it fully
deserved the certificate which it received, and
I have no doubt as to our ability to secure
equally heavy crops as those grown by Mr.
Bowerman, the raiser of it. I can also recom¬
mend Trentham Fillbasket for pot culture.

Raising the plants. —Those who have room
in forcing-houses of any description for a few'
plauts in pots, either on back shelves or trained
up the roof, should lose no time in raising plants
of some approved sort for that purpose. Sow the
seed thinly in pane or pots filled with tine light

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

gitize

Dec. 6, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

493

soil, and plunge them in a hotbed or place them
on the warm bench of a forcing-house. Directly
the seedlings appear transfer them to a warm
shelf near the glass, the aim being both then and
subsequently to keep the plants as dwarf as pos¬
sible. When in rough leaf, that is to say when
the first pair of leaves following the seed leaves
are forming, pot off either singly in 4 inch pots
or in pairs in G-inch pots. Use light loamy soil
which has been previously warmed, and sink
the seedlings into the soil up to the seed leaves.
Do not press the soil heavily about them, as
they are easily bruised ; all that is necessary
is to lightly shake down the soil and fix the
plants with tepid water. Sinking the plants
into the soil, besides shortening the stems,
also strengthens them through the emission of
new roots. Shade them from sunshine for a
short time, but directly the seedlings re¬
cover from the check sustained in trans¬
planting return them to the warm shelf;
avoid crowding them when growing rapidly, and
support them if necessary with short stakes.
Never allow them to flag from want of water,
and shift them into their fruiting pots before
they become root-bound and weakly. No par¬
ticular compost is necessary, but I prefer a
mixture consisting of two parts roughly broken
turfy loam to one of partially decomposed manure
and a sprinkling of bone meal. Prior to being
used it should be warmed to the same tempera¬
ture as that of the house the plants are in, and
it is not advisable to take the plants ont to a cold
potting shed in order to give them a shift, that
operation being easily performed on the floors of
most houses. A single plant to perfect a heavy
crop should be placed in a pot not less than 10
inches in diameter, and pairs do well in 12-inch
or still larger sized pots. Pot deeply, but do not
fill the pots more than three parts full of soil,
thus leaving room for a liberal top dressing when
the crop begins to swell. Transfer the pots to
the fruiting quarters, and never let the plants
suffer from want of water, especial care being
taken to keep the small balls of soil moist with¬
out saturating the surrounding fresh and as
yet unoccupied soil by roots ; never syringe
overhead.

Setting and perfecting the crops. —Pinch
out all side shoots as fast as they form, but care¬
fully preserve the leaves, as they will grow to a
great size and materially strengthen the stems.
The first bunches of bloom on well-grown plants
are usually produced at about a foot from the pot,
and can be easily converted into large clusters of
fruit. Two other rather smaller clusters will
generally exhaust the plants, or at any rate be
as much as it will prove profitable to reserve
them for, y ounge.r successional plants being prefer¬
able. We usually stop beyond the third cluster
of fruit. It is frequently necessary to artificially
impregnate the blooms, this being especially the
case with the smooth, round-fruited sorts. Near
mid-day on fine sunny days, or after the houses
have been ventilated a short time, a smart
tap will circulate the pollen sufficiently, but
under less favourable circumstances the fer¬
tilising parts of the flowers should be lightly
rubbed together or touched over lightly
with a camel’s-hair brush. At no time
should the plants Buffer for want of water,
and this should never be given colder than the
temperature of the house in which they are
growing. They ought to have abundance
of liquid manure when the crops are swelling off,
nothing I have yet used being better for the pur¬
pose than that obtained from a farmyard.
Peruvian guano is also suitable, and this may
safely be used at the rate of a handful dissolved
in a three-gallon can of water. Moderate and
frequent supplies of any kind of liquid manure
are preferable to occasional strong doses. If
large handsomefruitfitforexhibitionpurposesare
desired, thin out the young fruit freely, select¬
ing those that are of the best shape. The much
fasciated central blooms are seldom worth
retaining unless size be the primary object, as
they are generally followed by very ugly
fruit. Should cracking take place, and the
smooth sorts are very liable to do this, it is
best prevented not by drying off at the roots
and lowering the temperature of the house—
thereby checking the growth of the successional
fruits — but by cutting the fruit when fast
changing colour. If cut at this stage of ripen¬
ing and hung up, or placed on a dry shelf in the
game or another heated Loupe, they ripei
out being injuriously afjpcted, either

colour or taste. It is a mistake to long delay
using Tomatoes, as they thereby lose their brisk
acidity, and therefore their greatest attraction.
For my part I prefer them rather under-ripe
than over-ripe. For the encouragement of
beginners or owners, or those in charge of a
comparatively large amount of house room, I
may further add that early Tomatoes may be
grown in any fairly light position in a house
maintained at an ordinary stove temperature—
this ranging from 55 dega. to 60 degs. by night
and G5 degs. to 70 degs. by day, with a further
rise of 10 degs. with sun heat. Much, too, may
be done with boxes, such as old wine cases, in¬
stead of pots, and they may well share a house
with Melons, Cucumbers, and such stove
plants as we sometimes see enterprising ama¬
teurs successfully growing together in the same
house. Nothiug is gained by crowding Tomato
plants, yet it is by no means uncommon to see
a dozen grown where six plants would have
been ample. W. I. M.

TALL v. DWARF PEAS.

The relative value of tall and dwarf Peas is a
question that can only be satisfactorily decided
according to circumstances. No one at all con¬
versant with the bearing capacity of tall Peas,
as compared with dwarf ones, will, I should
think, refuse to grant that when circum¬
stances are favourable to their growth they
are much more profitable to grow thin
dwarf ones. But a3 I have said, there are
circumstances in each case which will influence
opinion to a great extent. For instance, in
many small gardens tall Peas are not ad¬
missible, and in other cases suitable sticks for
supporting them are difficult to obtain. There is,
therefore, no choice in such cases but to select
dwarf growers. Towards these, however, I
am not favourably disposed, except it be for
the very earliest crops. They are, in many
cases, inferior in flavour, and the duration of
the crop is so short that the yield is much less
than that of tall Peas. I do not wish to con¬
demn the flavour of Veitch’s Perfection and
one or two other dwarf-growing sorts, as they
are all that can be desired. But the number of
good-flavoured dwarf Peas may be counted on
the fingers of one hand, and as regards their
bearing capacity it will be generally acknow¬
ledged that one row of Champion of England,
British Queen, or Ne Plus Ultra will produce
as many Peas as three rows of any dwarf
variety. Therefore, in point of space there is
nothing gained by being able to grow the rows
of dwarf Peas closer together—in fact, it be¬
comes a question whether dwarf Peas do not
incur a direct loss, as there must be more
labour attached to three rows than one, and
there must necessarily be a greater exhaustion
of the soil. Owing to restricted space, I have
been for several years experimenting with these
two sections of Peas, and the result is decidedly
in favour of tall growers except for early crops.
In tho matter of

Selecting the best sorts in each section, we
may expect opinions to differ, but I have no
hesitation in saying that a little white Pea,
known as Early May thirty years ago, is not
yet surpassed in any one particular. Under
the most favourable circumstances Peas are not
picked earlier now than they were then, nor
are they in any other way superior. For the
earliest crop I cannot find one to beat Ringlead,
and for the second, William the First. This last
is a very valuable addition to the early kinds. I
make a sowing of this on the south border about
the middle of December, when I sow the earliest.
I make another sowing at the same time in the
open quarters, and this forms a succession to
those on the border. For the next crop I select
Champion of England, which with us is most
reliable. It is not often attacked by mildew; it is
most productive, and as regards a table Pea it
is unsurpassed. The Champion is our sheet
anchor for the summer, during which we make
three or four different sowings of it, and it never
disappoints us. For autumn supply I sow Ne
Plus Ultra about the 20th of May, and again
between the 8th and 12th of June, which, for the
West of England, answers very well. Sometimes
we sow a row of British Queen early in June,
just to have two strings to our bow ; the quality
of this sort and its productiveness are too well
known to need comment. My selection of
Dwarf sorts would be, for the earliest

crop, American Wonder. This scarcely exceeds
15 inches in height, and for so dwarf a kind
is exceedingly productive, and of fair average
flavour when cooked. Laxton’s Alpha is not
so early as the round white Peas, but follows
them very closely. It grows about 2 feet
high, is fairly productive, and very good in
flavour. Dr. Maclean and Laxtou’w Best of
All are two excellent varieties to come in
succession, but for a mid-season sort in soils
that suit it Veitch’s Perfection is unsurpassed
for productiveness and superior flavour. My
experience of this Pea is rather singular.
Twelve years ago and more I could grow ex¬
cellent crops of it, but now it does not pay for
the sticks that support it. For the latest crop
Omega is undoubtedly the best in cultivation.
We grew this sort for several years, and had no
reason to find fault with it in any respect.

Protection from birds. —We find that tom¬
tits are very destructive to late Peas, and as wo
have to provide a wooden frame and nets to pro¬
tect Raspberries from the depredations of the
larger birds, the frame and nets do well for the
Peas. They just cover two rows of Raspberries.
We sow our latest crops of Peas at the same dis¬
tance apart as the Raspberries, and as soon as the
fruit is all gathered, the frame and nets are placed
over the Peas. The frame consists of a few up¬
right stakes 6 feet out of the ground ; some
rough battens are nailed longways on the top of
the stakes, and thus we have a substantial
frame to support the nets, which are stretched
over it, and reach the ground on all sides. We
have therefore only to lift up the net at one
end and walk in under it to pick the fruit or the
Peas. Allourothercropsof tall Peas we distribute
about the garden as much as we can in isolated
rows, as we find the produce greatest where
there is plenty of room ; even dwarf sorts bear
better when so distributed than where crowded.
In every case it may be taken for granted that
it is a direct loss to crowd Peas, either by sow¬
ing the seed too thickly in the rows, or by
placing the rows too closely together.

__ J. C. C.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(miscellaneous.)

12292.— Rhubarb for forcing.— There is
nothing better than a hotbed for forwarding
Rhubarb, but it may be brought along if laid
under a stage in a warm house. If dung is em¬
ployed care should be taken that the great flush
of heat is passed before the roots are placed on
it, or the growth will be too weakly. To have
it ready to pull by Christmas a bed should be
made up quite by November. There is no need
to bury the roots in soil, as is often done ; they
only need to be covered with litter, and this
should bury them G inches deep, then the stalks
come through it clean and of good length.
Roots that have been forced are not in a general
way preserved, but if, instead of taking every
available leaf from them, the last two or three
are left on, they will in time recover if planted
on good ground.—J. C. B.

12286.— Soil for Cauliflowers.— I should
recommend querist, “ Southport,” to collect all
the weeds and leaves and other vegetable matter
in a heap to decompose. In the spring open a
trench in the same manner as for Celery, fill in
with the compost, adding a good heavy dressing
of rotten cow-dung, allowing a few days to in¬
tervene between preparing and planting. During
hot, dry weather give copious supplies of water,
and then you will be in possession of the secret
of growing Cauliflowers in sandy soil. Review¬
ing the past season, it has been unfavourable to
all the early varieties of Cauliflower, many
buttoning before reaching anything like matu¬
rity, while many that have reached maturity
have either been discoloured or have burst open,
as if through being allowed to remain too long
before being cut. The evil seems to arise
through the hot, dry weather in the early stages
of growth. The above is the remedy.— Thomas
Lowe.

12261 .-Wire-worm in vine border

may be easily exterminated by the following
simple plan :—Place Potatoes cut in halves at
distances of about 18 inches or 2 feet apart,
place rather deep in the border at this season of
the year, say, 5 or? 6 inches, although spring is
the best time to clear out these pests by this
means, for they Ifcy L’kflor4_fiblsSdc/inanfc

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

494

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 6, 1884.

throughout the winter. By examining the
pieces of Potatoes daily, and removing the in¬
sects, you will soon be convinced of the simple
yet sure means of eradicating wire-worms.—
Thos. Lowe, Ormskirk.

12298 .— Chrysanthemums changing oolouiv—
It is not uncommon for certain varieties to do this. Gedo
nulli, a white Pompone, sported to yellow, lilac, and
brown; Mm. Bundle, a white, sported to yeUow and prim¬
rose. Plants are often seen with a portion of the flowers
one colour while a branch on the same stem will be
different. Many good varieties have beon obtained by
propagating these sports.—J. D. E.

12236.-Potting Rhododendrons and Ampe-
lopsls. —If the plants are in the open pound they may be
potted at once, but if they are already in pots March is the
best time for shifting them. Pot firmly, arid if done now
put them in a cold frame for the winter, or plunge the pots
to the rims at the foot of a wall or hedge.—J. C. B.

12305 -Wort (Dutch). -Originally a general name for
an herb, whence it still continues in many, as Liver-wort,
Spleen-wort.—J ohnson’s Dictionary.

12298 .—Variegated Hollies reverting to the
green type.— This occurs very seldom, but as they are
all grafted m the common green kind any suckere thrown
up from the base are sure to be green. Should the
variegated form revert to its original the chances are all in
favour of its remaining so. It is not worth while putting
chemicals in the soil, it Is not usiAl to do so. J. D. E.

the size of blossom.
bcd.-C. O. H.

Poor Children.— John’s “ Flowers of the Field, 7s. 6d.,
published by the Society for Promoting Christian Know¬
ledge, Northumberland Avenue, London.- M. B. bmilax

—Try Messrs. Veitch and Sons', Ko>al Exotic Nursery,

Chelsea, London, S.W.- R T.- The best book would be

“The English Flower Garden,’’ by Wm. Robinson. It
contains an immense number of engravings of garden
flowers, also their descriptions, &c. It is published by
John Murray, Albemarle Street, London.-— M. S. K.—
We believe the stove mentioned does all that is claimed
for it by the makers, but we can give no other information

respecting it.-?. L. S.-Try in the Aquaria and tern

department in the Central Avenue, Covent Garden.--

Amateur. —It can be obtained at any respectable heed shop

_ A. B. E. M .-Excellent trusses of good varieties, the

seedling salmon tinted sort being the best.

Names Of plants.— 0. 0. —Muhlenbeckia (Poly¬
gonum) complex a.- Bowdon. — Common Barberry,

Berberis vulgaris.- F. 77.—1, Adiantum polyphyHum ;

2 Pteris serrulata; 3, Adiantum hispidulum; 4. Ptens

cretica albo lineata ; 6, Pteris cretica- Mrs. Loiler.—

Cyrtomium falcatum ; 1. Aspidium aculeatum ; 2

Asplenium bulbiferum ; 3, Apparently Kalosanthes, but

cannot be certain without flowers.- J. Chatteris.—

Cotoneaster Simonsi.

QUERIES.

Rules fbr Correspondents.— All communications
for insertion should be clearly a ml concisely written on one
side of the paimr only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required , in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper owing to the necessity oj
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not answered
should be sent to us again.

Naming plants or fruit.— Four plants, fruits, or
flowers only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens art sent. We do not undertake to
name varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias.
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
name should always accompany the parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
specimens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12333.—Fruit tree for east aspect — What fruit
tree is best for a wall looking towards the east ?—Stans.

12334.— Pear tree unfruitful.—Could I do anything
at this time of year with a Pear tree, about ten years old,
which blooms splendidly, but when the first fruit is about
setting all drop off ?— Stans.

12335 .—Caterpillars on Apple trees.—I have two
Apple trees the leaves of which are attacked every year by
a caterpillar which becomes matured in a fold of the leaf.

Is there anything I could paint the trees with now to kill
the larva; ?—Stans.

12336.— Agapanthus In winter —May these plants
be left in the ground during the winter, and if so how
protected?—8. E.

12337. — Heating small greenhouse. —Will
“Senga,” West Kensington, who answered lerndale
query, 12203, kindly say which particular kind of patent
stove he now uses of Rippingille’s—there are so many ?—
Inga.

12338 .— Pruning Roses.— I find in the Gardening
one week we are recommended to cut back our Roses to
within 0 inches of the ground, the next wo are not to
prune at all, or but very little. Allow mo to ask which is
right, for one of the two must be wrong 7—1. S.

12339 .—Wintering Tobacco plants.— Will some¬
one kindly give mu information os to wintering a plant of
Nicotiana afflnis?-AN Old Lover.

12340 .— Marie Louise Violet. -Will the writer of
the article (” O. J. B.’’) in your edition of 22nd November
kindly inform me whether the lights should be kept on the
frames containing the Marie Louise Violets in the daytime
at this season and the amount of air advisable to be given,
as those in my frames are bearing smaller blossoms than
those in the open under a north wall? Abo whether a
little liquid manure, ojjWoUiy m*ui^ ja^neflcial to

The frame was placed on an old hot -1

12341.— Damp from cellar.—will any reader kindly
inform me how to get rid of a damp smell, which comes
up from the cellar into the house? It is particularly
noticeable in dry', cold weather, such as at preseat. The
cellar is only UBed for wine.—F ongus.

12342.— Stone edgings.— I was much interested upon
reading the above useful article! and Bh&ll feel glad if
“ R. A. H.” will kindly inform me whether I can grow
Saxifraga Wallace! from seed, proper time to sow seed,
&c. ? I failed to procure stones as advised by “ R. A. H ,
November 1st, but managed to get some old broken bricks,
which I have partly buried in the soil, a fo^t wide. I wish
to hide the bricks with; mie quick growing evergreen. I
am a beginner in gardening and should feel greatly
obliged for information upon the above.—L. H.

12313 .— Magnolias not blooming.— Will anyone
kindly sav why Magnolias will not blossom, and what could
be done to induce them to flower? I have a line tree
planted against a brick wall facing the south and now about
ten years old but never blooming. Should be glad of any
information regarding them.—R. B. C.

12344 .-Chrysanthemums dying off.—I shall be
much obliged if some readers will inform me the proba¬
ble cause of my pot Chrysanthemums dying off in the midst
of flowering, Using their loaves, and hanging their heads.
They have been fine plants for about a week or a fortnight.
My gardener seems not to know the cause.—C urysan
themum.

12345.— Chrysanthemums In winter.—I did not
pot my plants in sufficiently large pots, but they are bloom¬
ing profusely in a cold greenhouse. I want the old plants
for outdoor and to supply strong cuttings for next season.
Kindly tell me what to do after I have cut the stem down,
and whether I may keep the plants indoors for the winter
in Iheir present pots.—E. II. D.

12348 -Rolled plate glass.-Is the glass known as
Hartley’s patent rolled plate, J-inch thick, as suitable for
vines, Cucumbers, and Tomatoes, as clear sheet glass I—
Glass.

12347 —Piping for greenhouse.— I shall be glad to
know what quantity of 4-inch pipe will be requisite to heat
a house 30 feet by 48 feet and 10 feet high, say to about 70
degs. or 75 degs.. if necessary. It is a lean-to, with doors
on each end, and facing west. Would pipes in the centre
bo better than if placed at back or front, for if runtuug
all round would have to dip at doors? Would two flows
and one return act, with a valve on one flow to shut off if
necessary ? Would Fawkes’ slow curabustion boiler suit
such a house ? I have piping, but wish to know something
about arranging it.—A Novice.

12348.— Plants in vinery.—Perhaps some of your
rcadora would kindly advise me on the following circum¬
stances. I have a largo vinery where Grapes are g«own in
summer with the aid of a little fire heat. In winter the
vines must rest. I have tried to grow hardy and hall-hardy
plonts bulbs, &c , for winter and early spring flowering, on
the stages around the side, and in the middle of the house,
which is a lofty lean-to, with high and good side lights ;
but this is not a success, and what I wish to know is whether
I might venture to raise the temperature of the house
slightlv, not by wanning the water-pipes, which my lad
might mismanage, to the injury of the vines, but by keep-
ing a small stovo alight near the stages, in the middle of
the bu lding, and if so what stove or lamp would be best?
The top lights open at a height about 18 feet from the floor,
so that the lower part of t he house might be kept well above
freezing point in the col'est weather, which gets plenty of
air circulated about the vine roots. A hint from the wise
will greatly help.—W.

12349.— Aralia Sieboldl —Will someone kindly give
me directions in your next issue about the treatment of
Fig-leaved Aralia ? I have one which grows beautifully on
the lawn during summer, but always gets blighted when
the cold winds and frost come. Ought it to be protected ?
I bought it for hardy, also a Benthamia. Neither of the
things have flowered. I have had them some years. What
is the cause ?—P. L.

12350.—Japanese Chrysanthemum.—I should
be very glad if someone would give mo the names of the
best twenty-four Japanese Chrysanthemums, selected with
a view to the decoration of the conservatory rather than
exhibition. I should like them as free flowering and as
effective as Fair Maid of Guernsey, Soleil Levant, Peter the
Great, and the like.—J. N.

preferring always to renew the cock every
second year.

The Show Spanish is a long-legged, stilty,
narrow fowl, but this ia not the sort I wish to
recommend to the farmer’s wife. Select those
that have a plump appearance. A large, white
face is no essential to good laying ; therefore, do
not lay too much stress on this, but see^ that
there is enough to satisfy you that the bird is
pure and not cross-bred. The legs are of a
dark lead colour, and the comb of the hen falls
over to the side, and is of a good size, but when
moulting often sinks to a very small comb.
The cock’s comb should be very large and
perfectly upright. This short description will
enable anyone to select pure birds. Spanish
pullets will begin to lay at five or six months
old, and continue till the cold weather begins,
when they stop and do not resume till spring ;
but, as they continue then to give at about the
rate of five eggs a week, and each egg is as
good as two Cochins or Brahmas, they make up
for their winter’s rest. As they are non-sitters
there is no time lost in incubation, and they
will continue to lay without stoppage till they
begin to moult. If chickens are to be reared, a
few Brahmas or Cochins will require to be
kept, or broody hens got for the purpose, for it
is rare that a Spanish hen sits, although
instances have been recorded of her doing so.
By the aid of artificial heat during the winter
months the Spanish will lay fairly well, and I have
heard of an instance where Spanish hens kept
at a contractor’s stable in a large town laid a

¥ *eat many eggs during the winter months.

heir roost was above the stable, and they were
fed in the morning from the horse-boiler, and
spent the day amongst the manure, which, being
surrounded on all sides by high buildings, kept
off cold winds. The white variety only differ in
plumage, being pure white, and are said not to
be so productive as the black, from which they
are sprung. As very few of this colour are kept,
they are very much inbred.

Spanish, if kept in wet, exposed situations,
are very liable to a disease called black-rot,
which first begins by the comb becoming black,
followed by a general wasting away. Diarrhoea
may be present, and the fowl goes about moping
till it drops down and dies. Cure is very
difficult, and can only be looked for by the
disease being dealt with when it shows itself.
Treatment consists in removing to a warm, dry
run, free from cold winds and draught; giving
small doses of castor-oil every other day, and
feeding on nourishing food, such a3 oatmeal.
A little boiled animal food will help greatly ;
but, with a common fowl, it is better to kill it
at once. On account of Spanish being so subject
to this disease when kept in exposed situations,
I recommend a cross with the Dorking and
Brahma. ___

POULTRY.

SPANISH FOWLS.

There are two varieties of the Spanish fowl,
viz., white-faced, and black and white. ^ Ihere
are many sub-varieties, such as M. inorcas,
Andalusians, &c., all of which resemble the
Spanish in that they are good layers of large
white eggs. The pure black Spanish is a very ,
handsome and profitable breed to keep, especially
if you are limited for room. Their egg production
is sometimes extraordinary, their eggs being of
a large size—the largest of any of the fowl
species. The chickens should not be hatched
earlier than April, as they are long in fledging,
and very susceptible to cold and damp. They
require great care when youDg, and should be
fei liberally on good sound food. After the
chicken stage they are very hardy, and a cross
with this breed will greatly increase the egg
production, and make first-rate farm fowls. If
bred pure, the cocks are very liable to become
1 blind in their Becond or third year, and although
this can be helped by cutting away the white

_L-i_ _.V: iwnnd f Vi o uvn Anri

COCHINS.

Buff is the colour most extensively bred, and
the number of these shown is far greater than
all the other colours put together. Buffs range
from a very pale lemon to a deep crimson, the
most admired being a pale delicate buff: but it
is very difficult to get true, many of the birds
being inclined to mealiness on the wing. A
Cochin cock should be large, broad, deep, and
massive, weighing not less than 11 pounds, and
if a little heavier all the better. Good birds
often go 13 and 14 pounds, still they are the
exception. The weight is very deceptive owing
to the feathers ; some look monsters, but when
on the scale go much less than those which
look very much smaller. Fowls are never
judged by weight at exhibitions, therefore
feathers must not be lost sight of w’hen breed¬
ing fowls to be judged by size. The carnage
of a Cochin cock should be bold, the head
carried forward, and the fore part of the body
low. The head should be neat and rather small
compared to the size of the bird ; the breast
broad, deep, and full; the back short, wide, aod
rising towards the tail; the wings small and
carried close to the body, the primaries firmly
tucked up under the secondaries, the end of
the wing being buried in the flaff, and covered
by the saddle hackles; legs short, heavily
feathered, set'wide apart, and of a bright yellow
colour ; the thighs short, thick, and abundantly
covered with the fine downy feathers known as
fluff, the quality of which is often an indication

substance" which _ grows round the eye and I fluff, the quality of which is often^an tnaicauon
impedes the sight, very few care to do so, | of jthe quality and breeding of the bird, livery

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Dec. 6, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

495

soft, fine, and fluffy, the bird is well bred, and
if properly mated will produce good stock; but
if the fluff be coarse, birds of fine quality need
not be looked for from them. Cochin cocks, as
they get old, are apt to get mealy or grizzled
on the wing. Such are quite fit to breed from
provided the mealiness only appeared with age.

The hen should weigh from 8 pounds to 10
pounds, have a small, neat head, and soft ex
presaive eye, legs very short and thick, the
body carried low, the forepart drooping forward
slightly, the back short and broaa, rising into
a large, full, round cushion. The bird, as a
whole, should be deep, broad, and well
rounded, showing great mass. The fluff is
very important point, and unless this be profuse
the bird s appearance is very much destroyed.

White Cochins correspond exactly, except
in colour, which should be pure and spotless all
over, and which, contrasted with the red comb
and wattles and yellow legs, give the bird a
very handsome appearance. 1 call this colour
the most beautiful of the Cochin species, and
only regret that the difficulty in keeping the
bird clean prevents it being as extensively bred
as it would otherwise be. The difficulty in breeding
white Cochins is to get the colour pure, many
birds after the first moult coming yellow over
the back and wings, while some strains have a
tendency to a red tinge ; all these are fatal in
a show. The summer sun will also tan the
plumage, so that shade must be provided in
some form or other. Cockerels and pullets
should not be bred together, but two-year-old
birds ; as their chicken, which are very hardy,
feather sooner, and altogether make better birds.
White sand makes the best dust bath for this
variety, as some kinds tend to discolour the
plumage.

Black Cochins are not numerous, and since
the Langshan came to the front is visibly de¬
creasing. Good blacks are hard to get. They
have a great tendency to throw red or brassy
feathers, which often appear in the cocks after
moulting. The carriage, shape, &c., is the same
as in the buffs. The plumage should be a “ rich
raven black ” entirely, having as much gloss or
“ sheen ” as possible, and the legs yellow. I
fear the days of the blacks are numbered, as the
Laugahan, which is merely a bare-legged Cochin,
bred for the table, is fast becoming popular,
because useful qualities are sought for and not
“fancy” points, as has been the case with
Cochins. Fancy has doubtless done much to
destroy the useful qualities of the Cochin in in¬
sisting on heavy feathered and yellow legs,
which no one likes in a table bird ; instead of
breeding for flesh-coloured legs which are as
easily obtained, and more breast meat. Cochins
at first were called extraordinary layers, and
many birds are still found whose fecundity is
equal to that of some of the non-sitting breeds ;
but no pains are taken to breed for good layers
now, as far as I am aware. The favourites and
admirers of the Langshan are therefore deserving
of all praise for their laudable efforts to breed
for real use, although I think them wrong in
claiming them as a distinct variety, they being
in my opinion bad Cochins—birds rather bare
of leg feather, and longer in the shank than is
wanted in a good Cochin. It is merely the breed
reverting back to the original, as the first
Cochins sent over to her Majesty were of this
class. P.

Feeding chickens.— If “ Houdan” will
have four boards knocked together, say S inches
deep, the top of the frame covered with fine
wire netting, and a hole 3 inches or 4 inches
high rounded out in each side, he may scatter
grain or put pans of food under, and the little
birds can eat in peace. Several frames can be
made to suit various sized chicks. It is always
a pity to let many chicks feed together. The
strong, active birds push the feeble ones away.
These frames also make a refuge from tyrannical
elders ; and if of twice or thrice the height,
covered with a small perch or two, are splendid
for wet weather. — Plus Ultra.

Andalusian fowls.— About a fortnight
ago the question was asked, Are young Andalu¬
sians easy to rear ? I reply emphatically, Very ,
from January to October. I have some
September hatched cockerels now that look as

for the first few hours, then I give canary seed
and millet, and rarely oatmeal or Spratt’s
fibrine, a little at a time, perhaps twice a-day,
clean water from the very first in shallow garden
pans filled many times daily, and now ana then,
if insects are notabundant, a little crissel. At first
my chicks are placed in a sunny, sheltered
garden in coops, with movable board floors
raised on little ledges to be above damp, and
made to fit just inside the coop, so that the
sides carry the moisture beyond the coop floor ;
these boards are thickly sanded or sprinkled
with wood ashes; on fine days are taken out,
washed, and dried, and replaced for the night.
At a month old or so the chicks are placed with
their mothers (and coops) in a gravel yard, well
fed, and supplied with green-meat. Soon they
run with their mothers into the small wood, and
are grown up. I most rarely lose an Andalusian
chick; the cockerels are soon ready for the
table. I believe many people lose chicks by
moist feeding and damp housing. If my answer
can help anyone to keep these invaluable birds
successfully I shall be glad.— Plus Ultra.

Cross-bred fowls. —“Andalusian” recom
mends “ D. E. C.” to try Houdans or Minorcas
as a cross with Brahmas or Malays. Has he
ever tried Houdan-Rocks ? They make very
big strong birds, and lay immense quantities of
big eggs. The Houdan, with black Plymouth
Rocks, produces quaint black birds, with yellow
eyes, beards, and top-knots. I am much pleased
with the result of the experiment.— Plus
Ultra.

HOUSEHOLD.

Raisin wine. —1. Boil the water which is to
be used for the wine, and let it again become
perfectly cold. Put into a sound sweet cask
8 lbs. of Malaga raisins for every gallon of
water. The fruit and w ater may be put in
alternately until the cask is full, the raisins
being well pressed down. Lay the bung lightly
over. Stir the wine every day. Keep the cask
full by adding cold water, which nas been
boiled. As soon as fermentation has ceased,
six or seven weeks it may be, press in the bung.
Bottle in twelve months.—2. Boil 10 gallons of
spring water. When it is milk-warm add to
every gallon G lbs. of raisins, picked clean, and
half chopped. Stir them up together twice a
day for nine or ten days ; then strain through a
hair sieve, and squeeze the raisins well. Put the
liquor in the barrel, and bung it up closely.
Bottle in three months.—3. Put into a stone
pot 2 lbs. of raisins, stone. 1 2 lbs. of sugar, and
the rind of 2 lemons. Pour 2 gallons of boiled
spring water, hot, upon them. Let it stand for
four or five days ; then strain and bottle the
iquor. Ready for use in sixteen days.

Frementy, frumety, or creed wheat.
—Put a pint of water into a saucepan and pour
sufficient cold water over it to cover it well.
Place it on the side of the fire and allow it to
simmer until the wheat swells and just begins
to crack ; then pour away the water and pour
milk over it sufficient to cover it about an inch,
and let it simmer for about an hour longer, then
add sugar to taste, and serve. This dish
may be prepared in a stew-pot in the oven quite

well as by the fire ; perhaps better.

Elderberry syrup.—I have long proved
the following recipe a good one: Pound the
berries in a pan sufficient to break them all.
Tie a large strainer over another pan securely,
and put the berries on it; use no water, and do
not squeeze the fruit, as the juice will run
through in about twenty-four hours. To each

__ . . the importer.—

LILIIJM ALBUM KRvKTZERI, most lovely of all Lilies end
. . - • •-the

quart of syrup add quarter-ounce of bruised

ginger, some cloves and allspice (in a muslin I T OVELY LILIES—Wm. Gordon has
bag), also 1J pounds sugar. Boil about 20 I Ji®A B ®5LS?ft£S*3LSLUlS^ 5 of ._ th .
minutes, taking off the scum as it rises. When
cool, put in jars or strong bottles, but do not
cork it tightly for several days, as it will work
a little. When using it, put one third of a
tumbler of the syrup with two-thirds of water.—

Isle ok Wight.

Oatmeal biscuits or farls.— One pound
oatmeal, half-pound flour, quarter-pound lard or
dripping, quarter-pound powdered sugar, one
tablespoonful baking powder. Mix the oatmeal,
flour, sugar, and powder together, melt the lard,

Now roll & bit of the paste Gut as big as a penny,
cut it into rounds with the top of a tumoler or
wine-glass, and bake on a cake tin, in a moderate
oven, until nicely brown on one side ; then turn
over and bake on the other side. When quite
cold put away in a tin box.—W.

A simple oustard.— Take a pint of new
milk and add two large eggs—both whites and
yolks—and half a teaspoonful of ground cinna¬
mon. Beat these together for five minutes with
an egg whisk, pour into an enamelled saucepan,
add three dessertspoonfuls of sugar, and stir
over a clear fire till the mixture just boils. Put
twenty drops of almond, or vanilla, or any
flavouring preferred, into a jug, strain the
custard into the jug also, thea strain it once
more, and serve cola. This is excellent, eaten
with stewed fruits of all kinds, and is very good
poured over a dish of compote of apples, or it
may be used instead of cream for fruit pies and
tarts. It is very easily made, and is economical
also.

Haricots. —Dried beans should be boiled
soft. Beans, broad beans, peas, or lentils should
be soaked the day before with plenty of tepid
water in order to soften them. Then they
should be put into cold water, and do not forget
that they require long boiling. To find whether
they are cooked, touch them with a wooden
spoon, in preference to metal, which hardens
them. The water in which they have been
boiled makes a fine thinsoup. Anothermethod :
Cook as above, and drain -while hot. Put them
in a warm tureen, adding fresh butter, finely
chopped parsley, salt, ana pepper; or put them
in a saucepan containing melted butter ; warm
quickly, stirring in the butter ; add salt, pepper,
a tablespoonful of egg-sauce, some chopped
parsley, and lemon juice ; stir gently all the
time and serve up; or, instead of egg sauce,
mix half a tablespoonful of flour with the
melted butter, warm till turning red, and add a
little of the water in which they have been
cooked.—H.

A NEMONE JAPONICA ALBA, IIONORINE

JOBERT, Btiong, healthy plants, 16a. 100 ; 2a. Cd.; 4
plants, la.

Anemone laponica rosea, very showy, strong planta, 16a. ICO
2s 6d. ; 4 plants, la.

Pyrcthrums, large double summer-flowering, large clumps,
3s. 6d doz. ; 6. 2a.

Potentillaa, double, ahowy colours, large clumps, 3s. 6d. doz.;
6 2a.

8pir*a filipendula, quite hardy, white double-flowering, very
free and showy. 3a. doz.; 3 plants, la.

Hypericum (St. John's Wort), one of the beat yellow-flowering
planta grown for borders and rockwork under tree*, fa. doz.

Forget-me-not. fine planta, la. d'-z. ; 5a. 100.

Daisies, red and white, 2a. 6d. 100.

White Pinks, good planta, 3a. 100.

Brompton Stocks, 12 very choice double varieties, large trans¬
planted planta, 2a. doz.

Wallflower, fine double German, a splendid strain, 2a. doz.

Wallflower, single, blood-red and yellow, transplanted, very
fine, 4s. 6d. 100.

Rosts, good standards, choice varieties, 12s. doz.

Rose a. half standards, 9a. doz.

All the above can be relied upon as being of the very beat

quality, and will be forwarded to any address, carriage paid,

for cash with order.

HENRY GODFREY. Nurseryman, Stourbridge.

TTNUSUAL MARECHAL NIEL ROSES.—

U Fine plants, clean, healthy, in capital condition, over 5
feet high, in large pot*, will soon pay for themselves in
flowers, 3a. each; per pair, 6a. 6d. Carefully packed in
basket at no extra charge. Stock limited.—RYDER k SON,
Bale. Manchester._

■TUBEROSE.—The Pearl is the best variety
J- grown, bulbs roady for forcing, 100 12s., 50 7 b.—J.
RUSSELL, 140, Lin s on Gro ve, N.W, _

QILENE PINK, MYOSOTTS BLUE, all large,

^ strong, rooted plants, no rubbish, 100, 2a. 6d., order free.
„ Glebe Cottage, Goring, Reading.__

FERNS l FERNS !—Adiantum Facotti, Pteris

-L aerrulata cristata (Cowatii), nice plants—these two fine
new Ferns free by post for 6s. per doz.; Laatrea ariatata
varieguta, Adiantum cuneaturo, and A. gracillimum, Lomaria
ibba, nice plants of these varieties free by post for 4s. per
Joz. Cash with order.—The Liverpool Horticultural Co.
(John Cowan), The V ine yard A Nurseries, Garston, Live rpool.

Still

cio6um rubrum tribe; its dazzling brilliancy defies competition,
and the ordinary apecioaum finks into ineignificance.—
LILTUM BROWNIT, the finest of the trumpet-shaped Lilies,
crenmy white exterior, purplish-brown. ma#6ive ; the three for
5s. fid., 6 for 9s., i>oat free. LILIUM AURATUM, new
arrival; 6d..Pd , Is , and Is. fid. each, finest posfiblebulbs.—
-- s -- • i. Middlesex.

W T M. GORDON. Nurseries. Twickenham.

if they would soon like to crow, some little and beat an egg and pouri* amongst the melted
October birds that are nearly feathered. I feed j lard. Mix the dry ingredients with this, adding
all chick s on hard-boiled egjga ’jp ad dfAspwJkeed a little cold water to make it into a stiff paste.

pOCOA-NUT FIBRE REFUSE.— Beatquality,

U as supplied to the principal Nurserymen and the Nobility,
Is. per bag; 15 bags, 14s.; 30 bags, 25a. Sent to_all parts.
Truck, loose. 25a., free to raiL
TOULON. 32. 8t. Mary Axe

sst Loam and Peat.—A.

flARDEN Stakes. Labels, Virgin Cork. Mata,
'A a.c. Note oh(*aji3r.—WATBLN and SOULL,

90,Lower Thames-street, London. fc.O.

IJRE ANA-CHAMPAIGN

496

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 6, 1884.

ORDER AT ONCE. |

THE

GARDEN ANNUAL

Almanac and Address Book

For 1885.

Pries One Skilling ; Post free, One Shilling
and Threepence.

This ia a most complete and accurate Yearly Reference !
Rook for the use of all interested in Gardens yet published.
The Alphabetical Lists of all Branches of the Horticultural
Trade havo been corrected up to date. The Lists oi
Gardens and Country Seats have been very carefully re
vised, while the List of Gardeners is entirely re-written.
ami the Post Towns added with the greatest care and
attention, and now forms the most Complete List ever
published. The Garden Annual may be ordered through
all Booksellers, Nurserymen, and Soedsmen.

It contains, among other matters, tho following, viz. :—
Almanac for the year 1885.

Concise Calendar of Gardening Operations for
each Month.

Flowers, Fruits, and Vegetables procurable oach
month.

A carefully compiled Alphabetical List of Nursery¬
men and Seedsmen, Florists, Horticultural
Builders, Engineers, and of the Horticultural
Trade generally.

The Principal Gardens, Country Seats, and
Horticultural Trade in Great Britain and Ire¬
land, arranged in the order of tho counties, extended
and corrected to date.

Alphabetical List of Country Seats, and Gardens
in the United Kingdom, with Names of their Owners,
very much extended and corrected to date.
Alphabetical list of Head Gardeners in the prin¬
cipal Gardens of the United Kingdom, re-written, with
nearest Post Towns added.

This list has been augmented by nearly 800 Name*
and Addresses.

List of New Plants, Fruits, and Vegetables certi¬
ficated during the year.

37, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, COVENT GARDEN,
_ LONDON, W.C ._

With frontispiece, 3s. 6d.

H ARDY FLOWERS. — Descriptions of

thirteen hundred of the most ornamental species, and
directions for their arrangement, culture, Ac.,

By W. ROBINSON.

Author of “ Alpine Flowers for English Gardens,” “ The Wild
Garden, ’ Ac.

London: JOHN MURRAY. 50a. AlbemarleSt., Piccadilly, W.
and through all Booksellers.

ALPINE FLOWERS FOR ENGLISH

dN GARDENS. — By W. Robinson. Crown 8vo,

i mcc 7s. 6d.—London: John Murray, and through all
looksellers. _

HOD’S ACRE BEAUTIFUL; or the Ceme-

teries of the Future. By W. Robinson. Illustrated.
Trice 7b 6d.— London : John Murray, and of all Booksellers.

SPECIALLY CHEAP CLASS.

Packing Cases free and not returnable.

100 squares glass at the following prices :—

12

by

9

10 s. 0d.

12

by

9 .. 14s.

(VI.

14

by

10

13s. 6d.

14

by

10 ,

21 s

Od.

15

by

9 .

13s. 6d.

15

by

9 ,

21 s.

Od.

12

by

19

1?«. 6<L

12

by

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26s.

6 d.

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Od.

300 squares 15-oz., 8 by 6, or 25b squares, 8J by 6i, or 220
squares, 9J by 6fc, or 170 squares, 9 by 74, or 150 squares, 10 by
8 , for Ida. 6d.

Putty, Id. per lb.; Paint, ready mixed, in lib., 21b., 41b., and
71b. tins, at 5d. per lb. Other sizes of glass quoted for on
application. All glass packed in own Warehouse, seldom any
breakage. Intending purchasers will oblige by making their
frames to suit the above sizes.

HENRY WAINWRIGHT,

Wholesale Glass Warehouse.

8 * 10, ALFRED STREET, BOAR LANE. LEED8.

Regent Street,
from March, Ac

FIR TREE OIL INSECTICIDE NuWo in water)

Effectually clears all INSECTS and PARASITES from the
Roots or Foliage of Trees and Plants. Kills all Vegetable
Grubs, Turnip Fly, Ac. Cures Mildew and Blight. Clears
Grapes from Mealy Bug, '

"1 8o«dsrr

Dressing. Of all 1

Ac., and makes a good Winter
Ismen and Chemists, 1 b 6 d., 2s. 6d.,

receipt of address by the. Manufacturer, E. GRIFFITI
HUGHES, MANCHESTER. Wholesale from Hooper k
Co.; Corky, SopeR, Fowler k Co.; O. E. Osman k Co.,
and from all the London Seed Merohanta and Wholesale
Patent Medicine Houses._

T C. STEVENS, HORTICULTURAL,

W • SCIENTIFIC, and NATURAL HISTORY SALE
ROOMS, 38, King Street, Covent Garden, London. Esta¬
blished 1780. Bales by auction nearly every day. Catalogues

on application or^post free.

YARDS RABBIT NET, 12 meah^idi;

post free,.7s. 3d.; B0 yards Rabbit Net. 18 mesh wide,
post free, 15». 6d. ; 12 Rabbit ferreting Nets, post free, Cs. G.L ;

jsitfoldlng Net, on bamboo

Bird-trap, 10 b.-W.-

Digitize

i bamboo pal«*nfcl8 feet long, complete
. CULLl|p^^Forn 8 ^|^

iplete, 20?.;

BULB S

I make BULBS my special hobby and sell at about two
thirds ordinary price*. List free on application. Giadiol
Breach leyensis 2s. 6d„ 4s . and 5s 6 d. 100. average weiclit
8 lb .. 12 lbs., and 16 lbs.; choice G:tuduveu»is Hjbfd- is. 9.1.
and 2s. 6d dozen. 12? and 1C?. 100: Co>iliei a ba 2s. d izen,
lb. 100; L 'iiun lancifoiinra a hum 6s. 6d ; rubrura -Is. 6d.
roseum 4s. Cd. dozen, art-ratc weight 2 lb*, to 2i lb?, per
dozen ; L iimn long’, riorum 3*. dozen, w t . hi about 10 ounces
dozen ; Luium auratuma7s to lSs d”,.eu atcid t»" - -:ht
and size; Hyaciiithus cuidican*. extra, large bull >, ar.-. i■’«
7 inches round. 2s. 6d. dozen. l*’s. ]<». vei-jM about 21 Ins
dozen; be-r .inputted Aim-t.can Pen! Tubt-io*es. 2«. 6d doz.,
ISs. 100. Otdtrs over £2,10 percent discount: over £5, 15 per
cent, diaco'int. Carriage extra. Persona! inspection solicited,
ns best guarantee of qu vlity. —ROBERT SYDENHAM,
Wholesale Jeweller, Tenby Street, Birmingham. _

GARDEN REQUISITES.

[OCOA-NUT FIBRE REFUSE, la. 3d. p

fJOCOA-NUT FIBRE REFUSE, la. 3d. per

bag; 10 bags for 12s.; 30 for 30s.; truck load, free on
rail, 30s.: Best Brown Fibrous Peat, 5s. per sack, 5 for 22s. 6d.;
Black Fibrous Peat, 4s. 6d. per sack, 5 for 20s.; Coarse Silver
Band, Is. 6d. per bushel; Yellow Fibrous Loam, Leaf, and
Peat Mould, Is. per bush. Potting and Bulb Composts, 1 b. 4d.
per bush.; 5s. per sack. Russia Mats of every description.
Artificial manures. Garden Sticks and Labels. TobaccoCloth
and Paper.—Write for price list —W. E. WARD k CO., Union
Chambers, Wormwood 8treet, London. E.O._

Genuine Barden Requisites,

A S SUPPLIED TO THE ROYAL GARDENS,

■tJ. the leading Gentry, and Florists of the United Kingdom,
Cocoa-nut Fibre Refuse, best only, Is. 6d. per sack; 10 for 13s.;
15 for 18s. ; 20 for 22s.; 30 for 30s., sacks included. Truck,
containing more than two tons, free on rail. 33s. Selected
Brown Fibrous Peat, 5a. per sack ; 5 for 22s. 6d. Black Peat
4a. 6d. per sack; 5 for 20s. Coarse Silver Sand, Is. 6d. pei
bushel; 14s. half ton; 25s. per ton. Yellow Fibrous Loam
Leaf Mould, and Peat Mould, each at Is. per bushel
Sacks and Bags 4d. each. Fresh Sphagnum, 8s. 6d. per
sack. Manures, Garden Sticks, Labels, Virgin Cork, Russian
Mats, Raffia, Prepared Compost, Fertiliser, Ac. Beet
TOBACCO CLOTIL8d. per lb.; 28 lb., 18s. SPECIALITE
Tobaooo Paper, 10d. per lb.; 28 lb. 21s. Price List on applica
tion.—W. HERBERT A CO.,2. Hop Exchange Warehouses
AonthwarV Sfreet. London R.K. (late 19. New Broad Street!

GARDEN REQUISITES,

At Reduced Prices.

HOCOANUT FIBRE REFUSE, 4 bushel sack,

Ll lg. 3d., 10 sacks, 11s., sacks free ; truck load, free on rail,
30s.; best brown fibrous peat, 6s. per sack, 5 for 21s.; black
fibrous peat, 4a. 6d. per sack, 5 for 18s. 6d. ; coarse silver sand.
Is. 3d. bushel, 13s. J-ton ; yellow fibrous loam, loaf and peat
mould, Is. bushel; potting and bulb composts, Is. 3d. per
bushel, 4s. 6d. sack—sivcjfB, 4d. each; Russia mate, manures,
garden sticks, and labels, virgin Cork, Tobacco cloth and paper.
Beat imported. Write for free price list.—W. WARREN
A CO., 8, Whitecroaa Place. Wilson Street, City._

Two Gold Medals,

WILLESDEN PAPER,

INTERNATIONAL HEALTH EXHIBITION, 1M$.
Dwelling House (Class 20), Sanitary Material (Class 29),
Silver Medal—Decoration (Class 30).

Willesden Rot-proof Canvas for awnings,covering8, Ac.,Willes-
den Rot-proof 8erim for horticultural shading, blinds, Ac.
Gold Medal, Amsterdam, 1884 .
Willesden Paper A Canvas Works, Willesden Junction, N.W.

Depots : 34, CANNON 8TREET, E.O.;

16, St. Vincent’s Place. Glasgow ; 21, Bac helors' Walk, Dublin.

. . back

_ _ _ [cultural

Builder Wllminarton Hnll

PATENT GAS CONSERVATORY BOILERS

•L from 35s.; hot-water apparatus for gas from 50s.: hot-
water apparatus for oil, from 25a. 6d.—G. SHREWSBURY
122. Newgate Street. E C_

T AMPS.—Lamps for Greenhouse. The Patent

-Ll Economical Chimneylcss Lamp gives magnificent large
light, specially constructed for florists, 3s. 6d. by parcelspost,
—TIPPETTS, Aston, Birmingham.

GREENHOUSES FOR THE MILLION.—

ALFRED PEEL A SON. Horticultural Builders, Wood
Green, London; also Windhill, Shipley, Yorkshire. Green¬
houses complete, from 50s.; conservatory, from £5; over 3,000
of our houses erected in all parts of the kingdom. Illus¬
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address

P R A PUBLIC INSTITUTION, Co-operative

Storo. Insurance Company, or large Mercantile House.—
To be SOLD or LET, the vfry extensive PREMISES in Long
Acre, in part formerly known as St. Martin’s Hall, having com¬
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most substantial character, well lighted, and in perfect repair.
There is a handsome entrance from Loug Acre, with spacious
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The principal floors are of fireproof construction, and the
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—Full particulars and orders to view of Messrs. DEBENLIAM,
TEWSON, FARMER, A BRIDGEWATER, 80, Cheapeide,

NOTICE.—In ordering plants, seeds, or other goods
from these pages, or In making enquiries, Readers will
confer a favour by stating that tho advertisement was seen
in Gardening Illustrated. Our desire is only to
publish the advertisements of trustworthy houses.

Enterprising firms who wish the best returns for money
invested in advertising should remember that Gardening
Illustrated reaches a greater number than any other
journal dovoted to horticulture or rural affairs. Experienced
advertisers state that thc* r results from advertisements in
. Gardening Illustrated arc far better than from any
| other paper, not excepting tho great London dailies.

C. FRAZER,

Horticultural Builder, Norwl

iiiiiiiiiiiii

Thesj Greenhouses supplied as “Tenants’ Fixtures” (the
lower part of which is framed and flush panelled), or for
erection on Brickwork. Constructed of well-seasoned Red
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12 ft. by 8 ft.
15 ft. by 10 ft.
30 ft. by 12 ft.

Tenanto’ Fixtures.
£25 3s. Od.
£31 7s. 0<L
£51 15s. Od.

For Brickwork
£17 153. Od.
£23 7s. Od.
£43 5s. Od.

Three-quarter Garden Frame, with new (registered) Sefc-opes
and Corner Fastenings. Mode of good Red Deal, sides and
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21-oz. glass, and painted 4 coats of good oil colour. No. 1
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No. 3 size. 12 ft. by 6 ft., £6 5s. 6d. Packing eases from 4s. to
6 b. 6 d. Two-thirds allowed when returned

Carriage laid to any Railway 8tation in England and
Wales, also to Ed uburgh, Glasgow, Dublin, and Belfast.

1 lu j a_ r *'d c ■ ii^. r.>«t free, two penny stamps.

G. WILCOX & CO.,
Hot-water Engineers

AcmeMoilers

The best Conservatory Gas
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Full Illustrated List and name
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By this inventiou small conservatories can be kept at a uni¬
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Manufactured by

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URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VL

DECEMBER 13, 1884.

No. 301.

that of setting them on wooden stages where
the air between the pants is constantly in
motion, and cannot get sufficiently saturated
with moisture to be beneficial to them. S.

and Cneshunt Hybrid (respectively yellowish
blush, bright yellow, and deep crimson), all
! make fine long growths, extending to yards in a
single season, and such growths will bloom their
whole length, and extend as well; hence the
error of severe pruning, one of the woret
practices imaginable with such free-growing
subjects—in fact, Marshal Niel will not endure
J such treatment. Climbing Roses in a cool house,
such as I am contemplating, are far better than
; Roses in pots, ten times moreeasily managed, and
when they can be planted out it is useless
troubling with pot plants at all.

Hardy shrubs. —In a hardy plant-house
Camellias would succeed extremely well, and so
would Chinese Azaleas planted out, and all the
fine greenhouse Rhododendrons, such as the old
free flowering Gibsoni, ciliatum, Countess of
Haddington, and all the newer and still finer
hybrids belonging to the jasminiflorum breed.
Among outdoor shrubs that stand taking up
from the ground to force, and putting back
again about June or July to recoup in the open
air for a season, are common Azaleas, Rhodo¬
dendrons, Deutzias, Laurustinus, flowering
Currants, Weigelas,
double and single
Thorns, and ordi¬
nary spring- flowering
Bhrubs. Any of these
taken up in Novem¬
ber with a little care,
and put in pots in
common and rather
light sojl (it need not
be ricn), will flower
freely after the new
year and onwards.

^ But the best way to

permanently in ^ots

giRlil ~ tFmL ders or shrubberies, to

display their flowers

roots cut off as are
or over their rim a.

■8^5^ using one lot one
> year and another the
next, on any two or
three years. The
majority, however,
lift out of the ground and force at once, espe¬
cially Rhododendrons and Azaleas.

Hardy bulbs, &c. —These shrubs, and
the Camellias and other thiogs alluded to, would
form a background to a cool house. Fill up the
body of the space, and for the rest dependence
would have to be placed upon the following
hardy subjects : Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses,
Snowdrops, Narcissi, including any of the
common Daffodils, which succeed beautifully
under glass ; the white Wood Hyacinth is a
fine subject; Lilium candidum, Anemone
fulgens and A. japonica alba, Spiraja japonica
(white), Spircea palmata (pink), Forget-me-nots
(blue and white), Arabia, Iberis corifolia, and
others ; Phlox procumbens, Saxifraga Wallacei,
and others of the same habit; early Phloxes,
Iris, Pieonies, Stocks, Asters, Dielytra, Poten-
tillas, Violets, Pansies, Carnations, Primroses,
Auriculas—in fact, all free-flowering spring and
summer flowers of a not too rampant habit.
Crocuses, Snowdrops, Daffodils, and other'
early bulbs should be taken up out of the ground
early in the autumn and potted; and most of
the other things should be potted and houerd
by November or December. Nearly all strictly

URBANA-CHAIMPAIGN

FERNERIES & THEIR ARRANGEMENT.
XiXTtogood cultivation comes tasteful arrange¬
ment, especially as regards Ferns, which, owing
to the variety that exists amoDgat them, afford
a vast field for the exercise of ingenuity in the
way of effective grouping. Although most
Ferns are individually graceful in habit, yet the
appearance of a fernery is greatly enhanced by
•kilfnl management. Amongst the many
different ways of arranging Ferns so as to
produce a satisfactory result, and at the same
time show each plant off to the best advantage,
there are two which may fairly claim superiority
over all others. The first relates to ferneries in
which all specimens, large and small, are planted
out without reference to regularity or symmetry
—allowing them, in fact, to grow comparatively
wild, so as to imitate as mnch as possible
natural growth. Under such conditions plants
with broad and bold foliage intermix with others
of a different character, and form masses of
vegetation remarkable for its picturesque beauty.
A fernery of this
kind is not, however,
within the reach of
everyone; many can¬
not afford space for
grouping of this kind;
on the contrary, they
have to content them¬
selves with a few p?

specimens in pots
and with arranging
them at intervals so
as to form various
combinations. In all
arrangements of this
kind striking con-
basts should be al- ^3^1

ways kept in view,
and which can be
way effected by

HARDY PLANTS UNDER GLASS.

The extent to which a conservatory can be
furnished with highly ornamental hardy plants
without what is called hard forcing, or Indeed
forcing at all, during the winter and spring
months, is hardly realised, nor has the subject
ever been much discussed. With people living in
the north of England and in Scotland, spring
flowers arc, as a rule, seldom in bloom till May ;
hence,unless they haveagood indoor supply, along
season of barrenness is experienced. If, there¬
fore, in every garden where a good collection of
hardy spring and summer flowers existed, a
certain portion of them were each season
set aside and put into pots about the
beginning of winter, and set in a cool house,
they would afford a bright show of flowers
during the early portion of the year, when there
are none outsido. Numbers of hardy border

electing species of
•Itogether different
habits, and grouping
them, not only ac¬
cording to size atd
form, but also colour.
Even a few plants
judiciously put to¬
gether, as shown in
the annexed illustra¬
tion, in a compara-
tivelysmall space m ay

be made to look well,
provided the best JHI
mode of grouping is
adopted, spreading
species being so dis¬
posed as not to interfere with the growth of
such as are more upright. For example, broad-
foliaged sorts, such as Balantium Culcita, most
of the Polypods, Marattias, the bold-looking
Davalliaa, &c., should not be brought into too
close contact with kinds having more finely-
divided fronds, such as Lastreas, Pteris, or
Davallias of the finely-cut section, nor with
plants of upright growth, such as Blechnums,
Lomarias, &c., but all should be so arranged as

I to make a pleasing group. It may be also stated
in favour of this last mode of growing Fertisthat
<it is the most useful, as it allows the same
hurts to be used in different ways for decora-
ion in rooms, and for mixing with flowering
iants in the conservatory, &c. In all cases
void symmetry in grouping Ferns ; they cer-
iinly do not gain anything by being set in a {
irmal manner, and overcrowding is also another
nl. If placed thickly together individuality is
kit, ana wherever there is convenience they
^ould stand on either a solid bed of earth or on
*Uyer of ashes kept constantly moist. Thus oir-
mstanced, very few insects will make their
‘ppearance, and, where practicable, this wayTof
pacing them will be fount muuh ^p ip rjot to

plants not only do well under glass, but do far
better than out outdoors, and show a delicacy
in the colour of their flowers, and a beauty of
foliage and habit, that only those who have
seen the plants under such circumstances could
believe. In the following remarks, therefore,
it is proposed to give a few directions as regards
the preparation of hardy plants for flowering
indoors. Among the shrubby class adapted for
the purpose

Roses stand first, because they are more at
home in such quarters than out-of-doorB, and
afford such a longdisplay of flowers of all colours.
Rambling kinds, like Gloire de Dijon. Marcchal
Niel, and Cheshunt Hybrid, or any of the free-
climbing sorts, of which those named are among
the best, may be planted out in either an inside
or outside border, and trained up the roof or
walls with the certainty of their growing and
producing thousands of flowers in February,
March, and April. Roses soon cover much
space under glass, and bloom freely the first
year. The great secret of their culture is to
keep them free from insects, an easy matter in
a cool house by fumigation, and pruning as little
"as possible. Gloire de Dijon, Marcohal Niel,-

498

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Dec. 13, 1884.

herbaceous subjects, however, like the Spiraea,
Phlox, Iris, and Dielytra, whose stems die down
in winter, lift easily and flower well, and may
be min aged by any intelligent amateur who is
careful in lifting his plants to get good roots
with them, not a difficult matter. Large pots
should bo avoided; if they are sufficiently
large to hold the roots and allow a very
little soil in and around them, they will do.
Small pot? should be the motto. All such
plants are ready for forcing as soon as taken
up, and need no preparation.

Shrubby subjects, like Iberis, Bhould be pro¬
pagated by cuttings. A few young tops put in
under a handlight or cloche will make neat little
flowering tuft?, and the Arabis and other dwarf
subjects like it may be managed in the same
way. Primroses and Auriculas of all sorts may
be taken up in October and potted, and these
alone will make an exceptionally fine show and
afford much variety. Spirrca japonica and S.
palmata lift in clumps with the spade in winter,
and are not checked in the least. The Anemone
japonica alba, unless it can be got in good
masses, is better potted a season and left in the
border in the pots. It is well worth the trouble,
for when grown in a pot in a window or under
glass it is a noble subject, producing abundance
of large white flowers far clearer and more
perfect than out-of-doors. The red kind should
also be prepared in the same way. Phloxes are
also pretty, and produce perfect spikes of flower
under glass ; only the dwarf early sorts should
be used, and they will lift and force well. The
Dielytra is even more accommodating, and is
one of the most ornamental plants that can be
grown, but all named are suitable.

Anyone having a house or pit ready for such
subjects, say in December, should then have all
his plauts potted and placed in it. I would not
advise him to push the plants at first, but after
the new year he should take advantage
of all fine days to husband the natural heat;
and if the house be heated, which would be
better, he could keep the temperature up to 50
degs. or 55 degs. by day, which is sufficient to
set everything on the move. Early plants would
flower first, and the others would follow in
succession just the same as outdoors. In March,
April, and May the house should be gay with
flowers. It is not needful to have a large house
for such plants, but whatever its size, it Bhould
be well fille i. By midsummer the display will
be over, when the house cau be devoted to
other purposes till wanted again ; and
the plants can be turned out-of-doors, and each
kind treated according to its need. Those who
have vineries, Peach houses, or greenhouses
may, of course, use them also for growing hardy
plants whiU the trees or other inmates are at
rest, or not far advanced, but most success will
attend those who can devote a house to the
plants themselves. J. S.

Winter blooming Flax.— This shrub, the
Linum trigynum of botanists, has been known
as a winter blooming plant for nearly a century.
It is generally found in a half-starved condition,
in a greenhouse temperature, producing only a
few straggling flowers; but no plant better
repays good cultivation, and if well grown it
will reward the cultivator with a profusion of
clear bright yellow flowers in the dead of winter,
when few plants are in bloom. Early in March
secure good strong cuttings of it; these can be
easily had if, when done flowering, the plants
are partially cut back. In a brisk heat the
cuttings strike root quickly, and when well
rooted they should be potted singly in 3-inch
pots, tikiog c ire to pinch the points of the shoots,
so as to cauie them to break back. When they
have taken hold of the fresh soil and started
freely, they should be gradually hardened off in
an intermediate house. They should be kept
potted on as required and well pinched back ;
watering at this Btage must not be neglected,
and the plants should be kept well syringed, as
they are subject to red spider. By June, if the
cuttings were rooted in the latter part of March,
they will need their final shift, and if large plants
are required, S inch pots will be none too large.
A fortnight before they are moved into their
floweiiog pots they should ba stopped for the
last time, and when they have got hold of the
fresh soil they should for a time be placed in a
cool frame, setting them on asheB or some
moisture holding.m^terial. Keep them a little
<flo8© till harden^doff^; ^ffUrwajTpji give all the

air possible, but shade from bright sun. As the
pots get nicely full of roots weak manure water
Bhould be given freely, and they should be kept
well syringed twice a day on bright days, closing
the frame early in the afternoon, which will
greatly help to keep down spider and promote
sturdy growth. Wnen the nights begin to get
cool, which will be in September, they should
be moved to an intermediate house, or where the
temperature does not fall much below 55 degs.,
so as to ripen the wood, as upon this depends
whether there will be much flower or not. The
soil I find suitable is good fibry loam two parts,
and leaf soil one part, with a good admixture of
quarter-inch bones, and sufficient sand to make
the whole porous.—R. A.

Tuberoses. —The purity of colour and
delightful fragrance of the Tuberose has caused it
to become popular in English gardens. In these
respects it resembles the Gardenia, but, unlike
that plant, it does not absolutely require a warm
house to grow it in. Those who have but an
ordinary greenhouse or frame may grow Tube¬
roses very well, but, of course, if the flowers are
required in winter or spring, the plants must
have heat from the time they are potted, other¬
wise they bloom in the summer and autumn.
The culture is simple enough, and good speci¬
mens may be easily grown if two points are kept
in mind, viz., to get the pots full of roots before
giving much water, and never to let them
know the want of it when they come into
full growth. If required for winter bloom, to
come in, say, the middle of January, pot the

African Tuberose.

bulbs quite by October. If they are good plump
bulbs, put two in a 6-inch pot; if only of mode¬
rate size, three may be put in a pot. Drain
the pots well, using good fibrous loam with a
fair amount of leaf-soil and a good sprinkling of
silver sand. Pot firmly, water moderately, and
place in a warm house, and if you can plunge
the pots to the rims in bottom heat so much the
better. Until growth fairly commences great
care must be exercised in watering, keeping the
soil just moist without bringing it into a wet
state being what is required. In a general way
if the pots are plunged little or no water will be
needed until several inches of growth are made.
The plants must enjoy plenty of light whilst
making their growth, and when the pots get
full of roots the soil must never get very dry.
By potting a few bulbs from October to June,
Tuberoses may be had all through the winter
and spring, through the summer, and far into
the autumn months. Those who have no warm
house will do best to pot in April or May, ob¬
serving the same cultural details, but shading
from hot sun, and syringing freely in hot
weather. The accompanying illustration repre¬
sents what is now called the African Tuberose.
Hitherto the Tuberoses grown in English
gardens have come from Italy and America,
where the warm summers form the perfect
growth and thorough maturity of the trees.
Now we also get them from Africa, and it is
said that they are the best in quality, and bloom
naturally earlier than those grown in other
places. This is very likely to be the caae, as
they would probably be in fine growth under an
African sun ere they start in either Italy or

America, and would naturally go to rest at an
earlier date. As an outdoor plant the Tuberose
has but little value with us, although it has suc¬
ceeded fairly well started under glass in spring,
and planted out in a sheltered sunny corner.
The common practice is to throw the bulbs
away after flowering, as they in a great mea¬
sure exhaust themselves much in the way that
choice Hyacinths do.— Byfleet.

Azalea mollis in pots.— This Azalea is
doubtless destined to become one of the most
useful of plants for forcing, either for decoration
in pots or for supplying cut flowers; for the latter
k> 86 it is especially serviceable, as it comes
flower at a very early date with but little
heat, and the colours of the flowers are very
varied and pleasing, Boft shades of pink and
blush predominating. In short, Azaleas of
this class constitute a valuable addition to the
list of good things that flower during the early
days of the year. When cut, a good length of
stalk can be had with the flower without
materially injuring the plant; the blossom
buds being all on the top of the shoots, the
flowering ones of this year can be cut away,
and yet leave a good head of weaker shoots
that will, under good culture, develop into
flowering shoots for next year. The only danger
is that, being hardy plants, they may be too
suddenly turned out-of-doors after their flower¬
ing season is over, treatment which the hardiest
plants in cultivation will not endure. Give
them shelter until their young growth is pretty
well matured, and then, under warm, genial
weather, they will enjoy being out of-doors for
a time. Not the least of the merits belonging to
these Azaleas is, that having such fibrous roots,
they can be lifted in the early part of winter and
placed under glass, when, with the aid of only
a slight rise in temperature, they can be had in
bloom very early in the new year. —J. G. H.

Dwarf Scabious. —These are not half so
much grown as they deserve to be, as not only
are they very showy in beds or borders, but they
are also valuable in pots for the embellishment
of greenhouses and conservatories—a purpose
for which they are well adapted. They may be
had in bloom almost at any season by sowing at
different times, or by keeping plants stopped or
pinched back till about a month or so before
blooms are wanted. To have them early, seed
should be sown in pots or pans in September,
and the plants, when large enough, pricked off
thinly or potted singly, and kept close for a few
days to give them a start, after which the best
place for them to winter in is a light, airy shelf
in any cool house or pit near the Glass. Early
in spring it will be necessary to give them a
shift into 7-inch pots, which are quite large
enough to grow them in, as, when they become
root-bound, it is an easy matter to keep them
well fed by watering with liquid manure. By
the end of May or beginning of June they will
be benefited by being plunged outdoors, which
should be done in an open, sunny position, a?
the more stocky and hardy the shoots are, the
more flowers they will produce. For planting
in borders plants are generally raised in spring;
but it is quite worth while to sow in autumn,
as they are so persistent in blooming that they
last the whole summer through, however soon
they begin. As they vary much from seed it ii
a good plan to save cuttings from any fine sorts,
and propagate in that way ; by doing that a
select strain may be secured, and distinct coloan
had for arranging in lines or beds as may be
desired, or for planting en masse, in which
manner they produce a very striking and pleas¬
ing effect. These dwarf Scabious live out-of-
doors in mild winters ; we have many now in
our borders which have afforded us great quanti¬
ties of flowers for cutting.—S. D.

Musk. —The variety known as Harrison's
Giant Musk is, in my opinion, the best for all
purposes of decoration, both in the greenhouse
or flower garden, for its odour, though not so
powerful as that of the common Musk, is suffi¬
cient, and when we take into consideration the
fine showy flower it bears, and the easy way in
which it can be propagated and grown into a
large plant, its value is at once apparent. It is
a fine bedding plant, as I have well proved
during this past summer, for it has kept up a
continuous growth and profusion of bloom all
the summer from the middle of May. when first
put out. till tho end of September. This is more
than we can say for the Calceolaria, although a

URBANA-CHAMPAIfib^M

Dec. 13, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

friend of easy growth. As before stated, this
Musk lb easily propagated, and it may be said
anyone can grow it; but one good way is to keep
a few plants in 5-inch pots as stock plants.
They may be bloomed throughout the summer
in a greenhouse or window, and these pots kept
in a frame d uring the winter months, or the cool
end of a greenhouse will be better, kept close to
the light till February, and they will then begin
to make stout growth, and should be repotted
in well-drained pots and in good rich loam.
When the shoots get a few joints in length they
may be taken off, and each put singly in a
3-inch pot, when, if kept in a close place, such
as a small frame or a handlight, if nothing
better is at hand, they will soon make a start
into growth, and when this is effected they
should be pinched with finger and thumb to
make them stout and bushy. The plants will
soon want a shift into larger pots, and should
then be put to a cool part of house or frame, to
be put out in May, and will be in full bloom
sooner than any other plant. I attribute my
success this year to a good mulching of loam

f iven to the plants when the weather was so
ry. This kent them blooming all the summer
through.—C. Meaoock, Bclsize Park.

Plants for moulds in greenhouses.—
It is surprising how effective some of our small
indoor plants can be made to look when grown
on a raised mould of peat or loam, or, as one
might call it, a pyramid of soil. Many of our
small trailing Ferns, such as Davallias, some of
the Polypodiums, and Filmy Ferns, are only
made to form really attractive objects by growing
them in a mass on a mound or pyramid, and in
most cases such plants thrive better under this
treatment than under any other. At Kew there
are some pretty specimens of this kind formed
by several Peperomias, such as prostrata, this
latter looking much healthier when grown in
this way than when grown in baskets. The
Pellionias, too, are excellent both in health and
colour thus treated, P. pulchra being especially
happy. Hova bella, generally an unsatisfactory
plant, is as free and healthy as one need wish
when planted against a peat mould or a piece of
Dicksonia stem. Two of the most attractive
plants in the stove are Philodendron melano-
chrysum and Cissus porphyrophyllus, and their
health and vigour are attributed to their having
a nice peaty looking piece of Tree Fern, in
which their stem roots seem to delight. The
Cissus is one of the most beautiful of stove plants
when grown as at Kew, the large corrugated,
deep-bronzed foliage, thickly marbled and
spotted with pink and white, being particularly
striking. As much may be said for the Philo¬
dendron, whose velvety leaveB and crystallised
surface are very ornamental. Another pretty
plant when grown upon a mound ofsoil is Mikania
pulverulenta, a bronze-leaved composite with
crisp foliage, something like a Pan ax. There
has been a fine specimen of it in the stove at
Kew during the whole summer, and it is in very
fine condition still. Some of the dwarfer
.Eschynanthuses, Fittonias, Cyrtoderias, Cham
zeranthemums, and similar trailing plants
suggest themselves as suitable subjects for this
style of cultivation ; thus managed, they would
certainly look well, and it is by no means un¬
likely that they would prove more at home
under such treatment tnan when grown in
baskets or small pots.—C.

12210.—Lilacs in pots. —As the answer to
this inquiry, given by **J. D. E.,” does not
fully meet the inquiry of “ A. M. X.,” I add a
few additional remarks. Market gardeners,
and those who force Lilacs, select good bushy

S lants from the nursery stock which have formed
ower buds, Lilacs doing that, like Rhododen¬
drons, the season before blooming. These are
potted in October (in 8-inch pots), and may be
readily forced into blossom any time during the
following winter. A longer, but, perhaps,
better plan is to keep the plants through one
winter and summer in pots, and grow them
slower, but they will be stronger, and throw
out more blossoms. In addition to Charles X.,
the Persian Lilac is a good one to force, and
when the plants are gone out of blossom they
should be gradually hardened off, and either
used in the open ground or forced again. To
force Lilacs to any extent requires a large stock
of young plantB. When they are kept a season
before forcing the pots
leaves or old tan dui ‘

Digitize-

hen they are kept a season
30ts should be plunged in
urin^ the w^Dtc^apd kept

well watered in summer. Forcing Lilacs is
easily managed by those having glass and heat
at commaud.—J. P., Lancashire.

12324.— Fine-leaved Begonias.— These have for
their parent B. Kex, a kind with very handsome foliage.
They should not be dried off in the winter. With good
culture the leaves will keep green all through the winter
in a stove. If they are grown for summer decoration only
they may be rested in winter by partially dr} ing them off.
It does not answer to dry them off to the same extent as
the tuberous kinda—J. D. E.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

HARDY HEATHS.

If there is a class of hardy flowering plants more
generally neglected than another it is the hardy
Heaths. One rarely sees them in small gardens,
and only occasionally where gardening is done
on a tolerably large scale. Very few hardy
flowers continue so long in health and vigour
with so little care; indeed, they belong to that
class of plants which only require to be well
planted and left alone. Give them the soil
they like, and plenty of sunshine and air, and
they will lead a happy life for many years
without showing signs of exhaustion and
suffering; therefore, how suitable must they
be for those who are either lacking in the
necessary skill or time for the successful culture
of many flowering plants. Heaths are of lowly
stature, carpeting the ground with a dense mass

Pine-leaved Heath (Erica dnerea).

of neat foliage, which remains verdant all the
year through. They cover themselves at their
appointed season with flowers either very fine,
or delicate, or bright in colour, and last a con¬
siderable time in bloom. What, then, can we
find better for covering pieces of open ground
with which one does not wish to have the
trouble of annual cultivation ? Now that there
is so much heard of the wild garden, and
naturalising certain plants in suitable placts
in woodlands and the outlying portions of
pleasure grounds, we must bear in mind the
capabilities of the hardy Heaths for such
purposes. Who that has passed over a
breezy common in the flowering time of
the common Heath can have failed to be im¬
pressed with the rich mass of colour which it
gives ? There is probably no finer floral display
in the world than that which can be enjoyed in
the blooming time of the Heath and Furze on
the Heath downs of Surrey and Sussex. Some¬
thing similar on a small scale can be enjoyed in
our gardens. Thus in Mr. McIntosh’s garden
at Weybridge, Surrey, renowned for Rhodo¬
dendrons and gigantic growths of Lilium aura-
turn and giganteum, small tracts of ground are
covered with Heaths, with just simply footpaths
amongst them, so representing a common in
miniature. Many imagine—indeed it is a

4 90

common error—that hardy Heaths require peat
soil. That they grow naturally in this is true,
but they also thrive in loam of a tolerably light
nature and even w hen verging on sand. In any
case a good spadeful ofsoil taken out and replaced
with a suitable compost would assure health
and vigour for years, especially if top-dressed
annually. Our native kinds, tetralix and
cinerea, are very attractive, and really worth a
place in any garden ; but we are not in choice
confined to them. We have more than a score
of good and distinct kinds, amongst which I
will mention particularly cinerea coccinea,
cinerea rubra, and cinerea carnea (the latter
flowering in January, weather permitting),
mediterranea and its variety, alba, vagans
aurea, australis, multiflora alba, stricta, and
bcrbacea. These are all good, hardy, free-
flowering kinds. Byfleet.

HYDRANGEAS.

As a shrub in the south of England, and as a
market plant throughout the United Kingdom,
the common Hydrangea is well known and
justly admired ; but, according to the rate of
progress made by Hydrangea paniculata grandi-
flora within the last two or three years, it bids
fair to become as popular as the common kind
for both the purposes just mentioned. H. pani¬
culata grand iflora, as brought into Covent
Garden Market, has been truly magnificent,
plants about 2 feet high in 5-inch pots bearing
three and sometimes four large clusters of
flowers. These plants are mostly grown on the
Continent, where large numbers are now culti¬
vated and imported during winter in a deciduous
state. They are then potted in good loamy soil,
and placed in a frame or cool house in which
they flower; but in order to have them in early
additional heat must be used. When under
glass this Hydrangea is very liable to suffer
from attacks of red spider; therefore it must
be syringed frequently, especially the under¬
sides of the leaves, and as little heat used as
possible consistent with the development of the
blossoms. Being a gross feeder, it must never
be allowed to become dry.

As a hardy shrub, the typical, but seldom
seen, H. paniculata is, except in flower, superior
to its better known variety, the foliage being
larger and of a deeper green ; the outline of the
plant, too, is more pleasing and the growth
stronger, but the flowers are not nearly so showy.
Hydrangeas of the Hortensis type include,
beside the common one, Thomas Hogg, a whit( -
flowered kind ; Otaksa, rose coloured; and
oyanoclada, a kind with purple-block stems and
blueish flowers. In many kinds the sterile
flowers are but few in number, and thinly
scattered over the cluster of minute fertile
blossoms, so that they have a lighter appearance
than Hortensia, and besides are less affected
by wet. They include japonica, a sort with
pale rosy flowers and thin pointed leaves ; rosea
alba, of more woody texture than the preceding,
and smaller in the size of the leaves, flowers,
and clusters, but one which grows quite as
large.

This Hydrangea is a very pretty Bhrub, as
when exposed to the sun, the sterile blooms are
often deeply flushed with crimson. Stellata
prolifera, with its star-like pinkish blossoms, is
a pretty little kind either in the open ground
or in pots, while the Oak-leaved (H. querci-
folia) is really grand when fully developed, yet
it is quite a rarity. The leaves are large and
lobed, in most cases downy beneath, and the
sterile flowers are pure white. Its large distinct
foliage stamps this, when notin bloom, as a very
distinct shrub, but it is amongst the tenderest
of the Hydrangeas, and liable, unless somewhat
sheltered, to suffer from high winds. Variegated-
leaved kinds are represented by a golden¬
leaved form of the common one, which is very
liable to revert to the green state. There are
also gold and silver variegated varieties of H.
japonica in gardens, the latter very pretty
when grown under glass in early spring, the
foliage then being clean and the variegation well
defined. H. japonica tricolor, certificated by
the Royal Horticultural Society, has leaves
marked with white and green and margined
with deep yellow. The variegation of this is
very constant. Where used as outdoor shrubs,
all the Hydrangeas should have cool and moist
situations rather than hot and dTy ones, but the
best results are obtained when the rooia are

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

500

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 13, 1884.

moist and the plants exposed to the sun, as then
the blossoms become of a brighter hue than
when in shade. The climbing Hydrangea (H.
Bcandens), or Schizophragma hydrangeoides, has
not flowered with me, but against a damp wall
its growth is rapid, and it fastens itself securely
to the crevices of the bricks after the manner of
Ivy. Alpha.

BERRY-BEARING TREES AND SHRUBS.
During spring and early summer a continual
floral display is kept up by the numerous trees
and shrubs now to be found in the garden, but by
the beginning of September the list is well-nigh
exhausted, and then attention is directed to the
beauty and variety that exist among fruit-bearing
subjects. The length of time during which
berries remain on the trees varies a good deal ;
some quickly drop, while others, such as Hollies,
Pyracantha, Pernettyas, &c., remain on through¬
out the winter. Birds frequently play sad havoc
with berry-bearing trees and shrubs, but such is
not invariably the case, as some seasons very few
are touched, while at others all in any way
popular with the feather tribe are taken. A fortu¬
nate circumstance is that most of the Evergreens
which retain their fruit throughout the winter
are among the least sought after by birds.
Among the earliest to ripen is the Mountain
Ash or Rowan tree (Pyrus Aucuparia), whose
brightly coloured berries are borne in such
numbers, that the small branchlets on which
they are produced bend beneath their weight,
thus presenting the surface of the whole bunch
to the spectator. The yellow-fruited variety is
also of a very desirable kind. The transparent
Crab, with pretty Cherry-like Apples of a rosy
hue, is very distinct from the above. The
broad-leaved Spindle tree (Euonymus latifolius),
with its peculiarly shaped fruits, which, after
a time, open, and display their scarlet seeds
suspended by a slender filament, is an attractive
object for the shrubbery border.

The different Roses, too, are all handsome in
a berry-bearing stage, the finest in this respect
being Rosa rugosa, whose large orange hips are
very conspicuous early in autumn — indeed,
before the plant has finished flowering. Other
Roses, such as R. villosa, has bright crimson
fruits ; R. spinoslasima, very dark, almost black
hips ; and R. cinnamomea is a bright red-berried
kind. The scarlet Thorn (Crataegus coccinea) is
very showy, as is also the large yellow-berried
C. Aronia. The Snowberry (Symphoricarpus
racemoBus) grows in almost any soil or situation,
and produces its pure white berries very freely.
The common Barberry (Berberis vulgaris) ripens
by the middle of August; and, from the pro¬
fusion of its fruits, and their bright colours, is a
very conspicuous object at that time. The
berries of the Sea Buckthorn (Hippophaa rham-
noides) supplies an uncommon colour. They
arc bright orange, and from their numbers are
very effective. They are about the size of large
Peas, and the long slender shoots of this plant
are sometimes wreathed for some distance with
them.

The different Cotoneasters are all attractive
when in fruit, some being very brightly coloured,
and others of a more sombre hue. C. frigida, a
vigorous growing kind, bears large clusters of
bright crimson berries, which remain in good con¬
dition during a greater part of the winter if birds
do not touch them. C. Simonsi does not ripen
till late in the year, but then its orange-red fruits
are very bright and cheerful. C. bacillaris has
small brown berries, individually in no way
showy, but they are borne in numbers sufficient to
make them attractive. The evergreen kinds, such
as microphylla and buxifolia, also bear great
numbersof reddish brownfruit. Evergreens retain
their berries longest in winter, and amongst
these the first place must be given to the Holly,
whose berries are so much sought after at
Christmas time for decorative purposes. A
vigorous specimen of the common Holly when
well furnished with berries, as is frequently the
case, is a striking object, and the same may be
said of the variegated leaved kinds, some of
which are just as prolific in fruit-bearing as the
common kind. The yellow-berried Holly, too,
might with advantage be more frequently
planted than it is, as it is in all respects a
counterpart of the common kind, except that
the berries are yellow. In slightly shady and
sheltered spots the bright red berries of
Skimrnia japonica remain on throughout the
winter, as birds d<vnot touch them

Digitized by

Aucuba japonica will bear berries freely if a
male plant is in the immediate vicinity. These
last two are very useful for conservatory decora¬
tion, as they fruit freely when in a small state.
Against a wall nothing surpasses the Pyracantha
in brightness of berry. Pernettya mucronata,
with purplish fruit as large as a Marrow-fat Pea,
has long been known; but there are now a
number of varieties, varying from white to
almost black, that are both handsome and free-
fruiting, and which should ere long become more
popular. Where the Arbutus is hardy, its
large, rough, crimson berries&re very ornamental
in winter ; but in most places it is cut down by
severe winters. There are many other trees
and shrubs whose berries are more or less orna¬
mental, but I have here named some of the
most useful. Some of the above may with ad¬
vantage be more extensively planted than they
are. A.

Berberis Darwini is well known to make
a good wall plant, and by associating it with
B. dulcis and B. stenophylla, all of which are
evergreen and neat in growth, a striking effect
would be the result. If strong plants are used
in the first place, they would reach a height of
G feet in four or five years. None of these Bar¬
berries are very particular as to soil, and they
will grow and flower freely on all but a north
aspect. B. Darwini flowers in mid-winter in
the West of England in the form of a bush.—
J. C. C.

12815.— Magnolia, not blooming.— It will never
bloom in a north aspect, as of all flowering trees it requires
the most sun. If you have a sunny wall for it it will
flower, that is. if it is the free-flowering kind, which has
the undersides of tho leaves of a snuff colour. If you
move it do so early in September, mulching the roots after
planting with a good thickness of manure, and watering if
the following spring and summer prove dry.—J. C. B.

- “Somerset” has i>robably got the wrong variety.

It is sometimes twenty years coming to maturity. I
should almost doubt any variety blooming on a north wall
though.—A. B. T., East Anglia .

— Avoid giving your Magnolia manure. Tread very
firm and quite hard the soil around the plant, and from
my own experience I think that your Magnolia will flower.
My own Magnolia, which is about 20 feet high, which yearly
flowers well, grows in a hard gravel walk, almost daily
rolled.-K. K.

Andromeda japonica.—When this shrub is well
flowered, as a pot plant there aro few prettier objects for
the embellishment of the conservatory at this season of tho
year. Thu flowers are like those of the Lily of the Valley,
but scarcely so white, and more wax-like. These are borne
in long necklace-like clusters, which hang in graceful pro¬
fusion on nil sides of the plant, intermixed with the thick,
deep green foliage.

i vnrougm
themT

gle

THE COMING- WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

Abutilons. —Where white flowers are wanted
for bouquets, and there is sufficient stock of the
pretty A. Boule do Neige, it will be found
invaluable, as it goes on blooming so long as
there is enough warmth to keep up growth.
Young dwarf stocky plants that can be stood on
a shelf near the roof are in some cases better
than older examples. The red varieties, and also
the yellow, at the present time so much in
favour, must not be lost sight of. There are
now a good many with a dwarf distinct habit
and remarkable for their freedom of flowering.
A cool stove or intermediate temperature suits
them best, as under such conditions the plants
get less drawn and the flowers are stouter.
Whenever any of the family are getting too tall
they may be headed down at this or any other
season if there is enough warmth to enable their
breaking freely, otherwise they, in common with
all other plants, are better left until further on
when there is more heat.

Arum Lilies (Callas).—Where flowers of
these are wanted early in the year, the possi¬
bility of getting them depends on how the plants
have been treated. Planting out in single
crowns in the summer time, as has been advised,
and lifting and potting in the autumn, has many
advantages, not the least of which is that both
leaves and leaf-stalks will be much dwarfer and
have a nicer appearance when in bloom, but
stock so treated should be kept for successional
flowering, as it does not usually force so readily
as larger plants that have been grown through
the summer in pots ; these latter, if well exposed
to the sun in the open air through the latter
. part of summer, will generally throw up blooms
' immediately they are placed in warmth, supply¬

ing them sufficiently with water, and keeping
them well up to the light. Before putting them
in heat see that they are perfectly free from
aphides, which are more partial to them than
many things, and, where present, get down into
the young flowers directly they begin to unfold,
where no ordinary quantity of Tobacco smoko
appears to reach them.

Mignonette. —Strong plants of this raised
from seed sown early in the year will, if they
have been liberally treated, now be in a forward
state ; a temperature of from 45 degs. to 50 degs.
in the night will help to bring the flowers on,
but they should not be subjected to so much
warmth as this unless in the case of the earliest,
the bloom of which is in an advanced stage,
coupled with the plants being kept in a good
light house or pit and close to the roof. Plants
raised from later sowings, especially those in¬
tended to bloom the last in spring, should be
kept quite cool, giving sufficient air every day
to dispel damp. For such stock as this a low
pit with a stage that will keep the plants near
the roof, and enough pipe heat to exclude frost,
is the best, as under these conditions the plants
keep on moving slowly, and do not lose their
bottom leaves in the way that usually occurs in
a stagnant atmosphere with insufficient light.
In the case of plants that are forward and have
filled their pots with roots, a little manure water
should be given once a fortnight.

Christmas Roses. —The white flowers of
these plants, when nicely managed, are little in¬
ferior to those of the Eucharis ; they force in a
very moderate heat; if too much is used the
blooms are liable to flag when placed in a cooler
temperature, but a little heat is beneficial in
drawing the stems out sufficiently to make the
flowers more useful in any arrangements in
which they may be required. If some strong
flowering roots are put in a cold frame, kept
moderately close, and just protected from frost,
they will come in later and give a succession.
Strong clumps in the open ground should be
covered with handglasses, by which means tho
flowers will be kept clean. If this precaution is
not taken they get spoiled with the dirt splashed
on them in wet weather.

Cinerarias. —With the exception of Violets,
there are few blue flowers available in the winter
besides these ; at no time are they more useful
than about the new year. Any warmth beyond
that of a few degrees al>ove the ordinary green¬
house temperature spoils the plants, as directly
they are submitted to much warmth the flowers
become so drawn as to make them worthless;
consequently, unless they are all but ready to
open their blooms, it is better to keep them
quite cool. Where successional sowings were
made everything should be done to retard the
latest portion by keeping them as cool as can be
without their getting frozen. See that the
whole stock is kept scrupulously clear from
aphides; few plants are sooner spoiled than
Cinerarias if permitted to become at all infested
with these parasites. As has been frequently
urged, dipping in Tobacco water is preferable to
fumigation unless the latter is done with very
great care.

Fruit.

Strawberries in tots. —Where a proper
Strawberry house does not exist, and the forcing
of this fruit is obliged to be carried on in early
Peach houses and vineries, January 1 is a good
time to get in the first batch of plants. These,
of course, will be selected from the most for¬
ward plants in the smallest pots, as the crowns
are sure to be ripe, and the pots being quite full
of roots, their throwing up flower scrapes will
be reduced to a certainty. When the plants
have been dipped and top dressed, place them
on shelves close to the glass, syringe regularly,
and give them sufficient water to keep the roots
constantly moist, as anything approaching
drought, independently of its fostering spider,
will produce a check which may prove fatal to
the crop. It is a common practice to fill the
shelves in these houses when they are closed for
forcing, and although the temperature of the
vinery may be somewhat high, that of the Peach
house suits them admirably. To keep up the
succession it is a good plan to fit up an ordinary
Cucumber or Melon pit with shelves some 12
inches or 15 inches from the glass for the recep¬
tion of the remainder of the early batch, and to
place some fermenting material beneath, but
apt. touching them. In mild weather the humid

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

SOI

Dec. 13, l8$4.]

heat will be found quite sufficient, but when
rery cold, gentle fire-heat may be needed to
prevent the temperature from falling below 40
dega. at night, and air must be given when it is
likely to rise above 50 degs. by day. Where
the general stock is wintered in cold pits, throw
the lights off by night, and by day when the
weather is fine and settled. Close and tilt them
to protect from heavy rain or snow. If well
plunged over the rims, sharp, dry frost will do
them no harm.

Hardy fruit. —The planting of all kinds of
fruit trees must now remain inarrear until after
the turn of the year, and as mauy uewly-
purchased trees will be laid in on a dry border,
eee that plenty of fine soil or leaf-mould is
placed about them to prevent the frost from
descending to the roots, and in the event of the
weather becoming unusually severe, a little dry
Bracken placed among the shoots will do good
service in protecting them. Meantime press
forward the pruning and nailing of established
trees, and top dress all that are likely to derive
future benefit from that operation. The nature
and strength of the material used for this purpose
will, of course, be governed by the condition
as well as the varieties of fruit trees under con¬
sideration. Old trees, as a rule, particularly
Apples and Pears, are greatly benefited by a
good dressing of manure, while young ones will
become more fruitful if treated to a dressing of
fresh loam, burnt earth, or charred garden refuse.
Peaches and Apricots, indeed all kinds of stone
fruit trees, require calcareous matter, than which
there is nothing better than old lime rubble
or plaster broken pretty fine and spread over the
surface of the border. Strawberries, Rasp¬
berries, and bush fruits enjoy liberal supplies of
good rotten manure, and the earlier it is applied
the better, as independently of the protection
which it affords to the surface roots, its manurial
or stimulating qualities get washed down ready
for the demand when spring growth sets in.
Peaches, Nectarines, and Morello Cherries,
which have been unnailed and secured from
injury by wind, may be well washed and dressed
with Gishurat compound when the weather is
dry and mild, and the nailing of the Cherries
may immediately follow the cleansing of the
walls with soapsuds, brine, or lime-water ; but
Peaches must be left till last in order to retard
the blossoms, and so preserve them from early
spring froBts.

Vegetables.

Go over plots of Greens and remove all decay¬
ing leaves. Such vegetable refuse makes a
valuable manure when it can be dug in whilst
in a green state, but if this cauuot be done it
should be thrown together and intermixed with
a little fresh lime, which will add to its value as
a manure. Potatoes should be carefully ex¬
amined ; all the early seed tubers should be laid
in single file to sprout on floors or shelves free
from frost. Some of the first earlies may now
be put in shallow boxes of leaf-soil, and placed
in frames to start them ; and as soon as fairly
rooted into the mould they should be finally
planted in forcing pits or pots ; we find the pots
a very convenient mode of growing the batch, as
they can be moved from place to place as cir¬
cumstances demand. Myatt’s Ashleaf Kidney
and Fenn’s early Market Round are both excel¬
lent varieties for pot culture. If not yet done,
Asparagus plantations should have a thick cover¬
ing of well-rotted manure, but no alleys should
be scooped out to cover it; such a proceeding is
not only useless but hurtful. New plantations of
Horseradish and Rhubarb may now be made at
any time, and established plots should be
manured and dug over. Still keep Globe Arti¬
chokes well protected, though, if time can be
afforded, the protecting material should be re¬
moved when there is no likelihood of frost, and
again applied on the first indications of it. Let
all vacant plots of ground be manured and dug,
trenched, or ridged up as soon as possible, in
order that they may have the fullest exposure
to the ameliorating influences of the weather. A
plan of cropping for the forthcoming season
should at once be decided on, and in making
it oat see that the various plots have the
crops varied as much as possible from those of
last year. Taking the same crop twice conse¬
cutively from the same ground not only im¬
poverishes it more than it otherwise would be,
but the produce is less, the only exception being
when the ground is deepl^tr^nfityd. ^| ^

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

CLEMATISES.

For the varied decorative uses to which the

{ >rescnt race of Clematises can be made to con¬
orm they have no equals amongst hardy
climbers. Although they can bo so managed as
to induce them to thrive and bloom well,
covering the ground in the way of bedding
plants, yet it is as climbers for clothing walls or
palings, training over arches, doorways, on
the tranks of decayed trees, and the numerous
other ways in which plants of this habit can be
employed, that they are seen to the best advan¬
tage. The common Travellers’ Joy (C. Vitalba),
that in some parts of the kingdom may be seen
almost smothering the hedges, is by no means a
despicable plant in a well-arranged garden.
The free-growiug Nepalese species, C. montana,
is a very effective kind when clothed with its
innumerable white flowers, but it cannot be
compared with the numbers of grand varieties
now incultivation. Of these, nottheleastdesirable
property is their well-marked times of flowering,
which, in the case of the montana, patens, and
florida types, begin in May, and are continued
by some or other of the varieties belonging to
the different sections up to July ; then the
later blooming division of the lanuginosa,
Viticella, and the Jackmanni types com¬
mence flowering, and produce a succession of
blooms that last through September and even
October. In the south of England such kinds
as C. rubella and C. Jackmanni are in bloom a
month or more earlier than they are in counties
further north. Aspect has also an influence on
their flowering; on a south wall the blooming
is three weeks earlier than on a north aspect.
But in the case of C. Jackmanni, C. rubella,
and others, there is this in favour of a north
wall, that the colour of the flowers is brought
out much finer when in a comparatively
sunless position than where directly under solar
influence.

Soil. —Clematises are very accommodating
plants as to soil, provided it is not wet or of
a too retentive character. They will thrive
in any kind of moderately free loam, or a mix¬
ture of peat and loam, or in peat alone. I
have not, however, been able to get such strong
plants in peat as in loam, even with the aid
of plenty of manure, which the Clematis, in
common with other plants that annually
make a large amount of growth, likes. Not
only must it be given to the soil when first
prepared for the reception of the plants, but
each spring before growth begins they should
have a good dressing, scraping away a few inches
of the top soil, or as much as can be moved
without disturbing the roots. Then lay on the
manure and cover it with a little new soil.
Annual assistance in this way is the more re¬
quisite where the plants are growing in narrow
borders close to buildings, with often a gravel
walk in front of them, and which prevents the
roots from travelling far for their needful sus¬
tenance. In such a position the plants fre¬
quently suffer in dry summers from want of root
moisture to an extent that never admits of their
attaining half the size or producing a tithe of
the bloom they would do if liberal soakings
with water were given. It is needless to say
they like manure water, which if applied in
sufficient quantities will usually prevent the
attacks of mildew, that sometimes disfigure the
late-fioweriDg sorts.

The pruning required by the different
sections of Clematis differs greatly. The
flowering of most of the varieties belonging to
the florida, lanuginosa, patens, and montana
types is from the previous summer’s wood, or
on growths produced from it that do not ex¬
tend far before they bloom ; consequently, all
the strongest preceding year’s Bhoots should be
retained, cutting out only the weak ones that
are not likely to flower. Pruning may be done
any time during winter or early spring, but it
should not be deferred until the young Bhoots
have begun to push, or some are sure to be
broken off. In pruning the varieties of the Jack¬
manni and Viticella sections that flower from the
current summer’s shoots the knife may be used
somewhat freely; remove all the weak shoots
and such portions of the stronger ones as the
space to be covered will admit of, so as not to
endanger the growth to be made through the
summer getting over-crowded. Avoid, how¬

ever, the opposite extreme of reducing the top
so much as to give a thin appearance to the
plants, as in that case the effect they make
when in bloom is much inferior to that which is
obtainable when the flowers are produced in
dense wreaths. In the case of this division
of the Clematis family some attention should
be given in spring and early summer to
dispersing the growth over the space to
be covered in a uon-formal manner. A
very effective way of treating Clematises
is to grow them in association with climb¬
ing Roses on stout rustic poles, so as to let
the growths intermix freely. There are few
gardens, large or small, in which these plants
cannot be thus employed with good effect, but
in planting care should be taken to use deep
or high-coloured Roses with light-coloured Cle¬
matises, and vice versd. C. Jackmanni and
Airnde Vibert Rose produce a beautiful effect ;
the deep parple flowers of the Clematis and
the numerous bunches of the pretty white
flowers and glossy foliage of the Rose go well
together. Theliberal m&nurings already recom¬
mended suit bath plants alike, and the rate of
growth in each is sufficiently alike to prevent
either smothering the other.

Fine as the very large-flowered Clematises are,
there is no question that the varieties belonging
to Jackmanni section, with their smaller, but
much more profuse and longer-continued habit of
blooming, are the most generally useful, and that
C. Jackmanni itself has been deservedly the most
popular sort of all. Yet the want of a variety
possessing a similar habit, with white or light-
coloured flowers, that would afford the required
contrast to this fine old sort, has been long felt.
An opportunity of seeing the plant when in bloom
last August enabled a correct estimate of its
character to be formed. It was strong and
vigorous, trained to a high pole, which it densely
covered. The leaves aud general habit are those
of C. Jackmanni, except that the blooms often
come with a petal or two more than in flowers of
the old variety. A plant of this white Clematis
grown in a pot was awarded a first-class certifi¬
cate at South Kensington last year.

Although this is essentially a notice of the
hardy kinds of Clematis, still it would not be
right to pass without mention the beautiful
C. indivisa, which is one of the finest of all
climbing plants that will thrive in a greenhouse
temperature. Its flowers are white and pro¬
duced in spring in the greatest profusion. It
iB amongst the freest of free-growers, small
plants of it making as much progress the first
year as most climbers will do in two. It flowers
in winter or early in spring, according to the
temperature in which it is grown. There is
another form of the plant, C. indivisa lobata,
the leaves of which are lobed, but the plain-
leaved variety is preferable, its flowers Being
whiter.

Select Clematises —The following is a se¬
lection of fine kinds : Clematis Jackmanni alba.
—This is a seedling from C. Jackmanni crossed
with a white kina, about the name of which
there is some uncertainty. C. Jackmanni.—Deep
violet-purple, a free grower and profuse bloomer.
C. rubella.—Claret shaded purple flowers, a little
earlier than C. Jackmanni. C. Mrs. Cholmon-
deley.—A free blooming, good sized variety,
lavender ground colour tipped with purple.
C. President.—Purple, shaded with claret. C.
Proteus.—Purplish rose, light centre, a very large
doubleflower. C. LordGifford.—Verydarkplum
colour. C. Xerxes.—A six-petalled flower, dark
violet, with crimson bands, C. Aurora.—A fine
double sort, red shaded with mauve, C. Made¬
moiselle Torriana.—Bright rose of good shape.
The seven last named sorts are all seedlings
from Jackmanni crossed with different varieties
of the florida and patens types. C. Albert
Victor.—Deep lavender. C. Fair Rosamond.—
White, with a feathery stripe of red in the
centre of the sepals. C. Lord Londesborough.
—Dark mauve with deep reddish bars. C. Miss
Bateman.—White, one of the best in its colour.
C. Mrs. George Jackman.—Very large white.
C. patens floribunda.—White, tinged with
lilac; a fine sort. C. Sir Garnet Wolseley.—
A large, fine variety, with broad petals;
colour, reddish lilac. C. Elaine.—A double
sort, with violet flowers, suffused with a
deeper Bhade. C. Undine.—A double variety ;
deep pnee, shaded with light purple. C. Mar-

§ aret Dunbar.—A full-sized, fine variety, with
ark bluei flowers. C. Standishi.—Light manve-

URBANA-CHAMPA1GN

Digitized by

Gck igle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Dec. 13, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

503

SEEDLING CHRISTMiS ROSES
(HELLEBORES).

Fsw seem to be aware that other Hellebores
besides the common Christmas Rose (H. niger)
and its varieties possess beauty. The general
impression appears to be that all other kinds of
Hellebore are green-flowered, unattractive
plants, only fit for botanical collections, no
other bat the common Christmas Rose being, as
a rule, seen in private gardens. Besides
H. niger, there are about a dozen species in
cultivation at the present time, though only
about half that number can be recommended
for general culture, the rest being green, unat¬
tractive, and often malodorous. These half-
dozen select species are named atrorubens and
abschasicus, both with deep, vinous purple
blossoms, bright and showy when well grown ;
colchicus, with deep claret-red flowers ; olympi-
cub, with pure white cup-shaped blooms ; gut¬
tatus, like olympicus, but spotted ; and anti-
quorum, with flowers greenish white, but hand¬
somely shaped.

Within the past few years these half-dozen

obtained by crossing colchicus with guttatus
| appear to bo F. C. Heinemann, rosy purple
freely spotted with a deeper hue ; Gretchen
Heinemann, Hofgarten-Inspector Hartwig, Frau
Irene Heinemann, and Apotheker Bogren are
all similar; in fact, it needs a very minute
description to indicate the difference that
exists amongst them, judging by what we
have seen of them in the grounds of Messrs.
Barr and Son, at Tooting. H. olympicus
Professor Schleicher and Willie Schmidt are
both pure white, and may be regarded as
improved forms of the typical olympicus. They
are probably only seedlings from that species.

These are the principal continental seedlings
already in commerce in this country, and all
may be recommended to those who do not like
to see their hardy borders flowerless in February
and March. In mild winters they even bloom
freely in January. There are several other fine
seedling Hellebores belonging to this section
that have been raised in this country; for
instance, Mr. B. Hooke, who is quite a specialist
as regards Hellebores, has several of his own
raising quite as handsome as the continental

A Spotted Christmas Rose (Hellcborus Commerzienrath Benary). Natural size.

so-called species have been taken in hand by
hybridists, the result being that a numerous
race of seedling varieties has been obtained by
inter-crossing. It is astonishing what strides
have been made in this direction in so short a
time, having regard to the length of time which
it requires for a Hellebore to grow to a flower¬
ing stage. This work of hybridising has been
carried out chiefly in continental nurseries and
gardens, as may be gathered from the German
names which have been given to the majority of
the produce. Of these named seedlings, about
a dozen are already in commerce in this country,
by far the best being the one figured herewith.
It is named Commerzienrath Benary, and may
be best described as an improved guttatus. The
flowers are cup shaped, perfectly white, and
copiously spotted with purple. Our drawing
represents the flower, natural size. It was made
from some fine blooms sent to us from Messrs.
Rodger, McClelland’s nursery at Newry. Two
other seedlings in the way of C. Benary are gut¬
tatus Leichtlini, a much shallower flower, but
quite as profusely spotted, and sub-punctatus,
which lacks the copious spotting for which the
two just named are remarkable^ yTho se^c lings

| kinds. The culture of Hellebores is so simple that
anyone may grow them who has a garden.
They like a somewhat sheltered corner, not too
shady, but not fully exposed. They like to see
a little sun during the morning, but seem to
object to its full force throughout the day.
They are fond of high culture in the way of
rich mulching, and the soil in which they seem
to revel most in is a sandy loam. They are
admirably adapted for cutting from, as they all
have long flower-stalks, which, being slender,

| are very graceful. The colours of the flowers,
too, seem to show themselves off to better
advantage when placed loosely in a vase in
a room than in the garden. Hellebores, how¬
ever, of this section, possess one fault which
seriously tells against their use as cut flowers,
and that is, they do not last more than a couple
of days in water unless covered with a bell-glass,
whereas their congeners, the true Christmas
Roses, last in bloom in water for weeks together.

W. G.

Aorocliniums. —These stand in the fore¬
most rank amongst Australian annuals. They
are everlasting in character, and can be grown

with but little trouble. Anyone having a light,
warm, sandy loam may sow the seeds thinly in
the open air in the end of April. Thus treated
they succeed much better than when sown on an
ordinary hotbed and transplanted. Though
classed with half-hardy annuals, it must not be
supposed that the seeds will not grow in the
open ground; but the nearer the soil ap¬
proaches to the character of that named above,
the greater will be the success in producing
fine heads of blooms. There are three
varieties of Acrocliniums — viz., roseum, the
single form, and, in addition, a new double
form of recent introduction ; and there is also a
white variety. The flowers are compact,
symmetrical, and handsome, and they are very
durable in a cut state. The best time to cut
them is when the flowers are pretty well de¬
veloped ; they should have long stems, be tied
together in a bunch, and hung up in any cool
place until the stems become quite rigid ; then,
when reversed, the stems will be found sur¬
mounted by flowers as when growing. They
can be made useful in many ways for house
decoration in winter. On the Continent, and
also in this country, Acrocliniums, in common
with other Everlastings, are dyed in various
colours, in large quantities, and are used up in
various ways, such as in bouquets, wreaths,
crosses, &c.—R. D.

12*293.— Ribbon border.— The following
are showy and lasting plants, with a good
contrast of colour, and will do well in a sunny
border :—Front row, Lobelia speciosa, blue ;
second row, Gazania splendens, orange ; third
row, Hibiscus africanus, creamy white, dark
centre, or purple crimson, and White Stocks
alternately, and at the back against the shrubs
Gaillardia picta. Another combination might
be:—First, Lobelia speciosa; second, Tom
Thumb, a vivid scarlet Geranium; third.
Verbena, Purple King ; and fourth, dwarf white
Dahlias. —J. P., Lancashire .

12328.—Single Dahlias.—I have a number
of these I raised from seed this year, and in
order to have strong plants next year I shall
plant the tubers whole early in March, starting
them into growth in gentle heat. The stems
should be cut off about 4 inches above the tubers
now, and the latter kent in a cool, dry place
through the winter. Plant the tubers, when
starting them, in pots, and plunge the pots in
the hotbed or heat. The plants will be much
stronger grown from the tubers than from cut¬
tings.—J. P., Lancashire.

- If you start the Dahlias in April in a frame or in a

little heat, without disturbing tho bulbs, they will have
made nice growth by planting time, when you may divide
them carefully to one or more 6hoots, and plant in good
rich soil.—J. S. Smith, Derby.

12310.— Yucca gloriosa.— These plants requiro no
special treatment. They appear to thrive in soil not rich—
without the slighest manure, but the drainage thoroughly
good. I have thirty-six Yuccas in large 27-inch pots,
beside many others planted out ornamenting the terrace
of my house, at one time I had seven of these flowering
into stems 8 feet high. At present (I am sorry to say) I
have four plants pushing up flower stems. I say “sorry,”
for the beauty of these plants consist ehiefly in their leaves,
and the centre leaves are always much injured by tho
flower stem.—K. K.

Weeds on lawns.— There are several ways
of eradicating these, each having its advocate,
but one of the best methods I ever adopted is
that of digging them up. This may appear a
formidable task at first sight, but in practice it
is not so, as it is quite surprising what a large
breadth of ground an active person may get oyer
in the course of a day if they have the right kind
of tool with which to work. One of the most
suitable implements I have ever seen or used for
the purpose 1 had made by our blacksmith out of
a piece of an inch-wide flat iron bar ; this I had
put in a handle and chisel-sharpened it at tho
point. It is also bent, so as to give leverage after
being forced into theground close beside the weed,
which it cuts ; then by pressing the top down,
the weed is at once lifted sufficiently to be laid
hold of by the left hand and dragged out.
Buttercups, Daisies, and Plantains may soon
be got rid of when thus dealt with, but it is
necessary to follow them up, as, though the
bulk is destroyed, stragglers from seed are
sure to make their appearance. The best time
to wage war with the weeds named is in spring,
as then, when the weather is warm, the work can
not only be carried on in comfort, but with speed,
as weeds all show themselves then, especially
Daisies. Another plan of clearing lawns of

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 13, 1884.

weeds is to get some sulphuric acid in a large¬
mouthed bottle, which should have a wire round
its neck to carry it by ; then, by dipping in a
notched stick by the right hand, a drop or two
may quickly be deposited in the heart of each
weed, which the acid burns up and kills in a
very short* time. It should, however, be borne
in mind that care is required in using it, for if
the fingers be wetted by it it will blister them,
and make holes in one’s clothes if it touches
them. Watson’s lawn sand is also a good
remedy for weeds. When sown over the ground,
according to directions sent with it, the weeds
disappear.—S. D.

PELARGONIUMS AND GERANIUMS.

I will endeavour to supply “ G. A. Newman ”
with a little of the information he requires as to
tho order Geraniacem: this is represented in
Britain by Geranium and Erodium. Pelargonium
is not represented. These three names have all
reference to the long-pointed seed vessel, being
derived from—Geranos, a crane; Erodios, a
heron; and Pelargos, a stork. Pelargonium
differs from the other two in having unequal
petals, as may be seen in any scarlet Geranium
so called, the lower petals being much larger
than the upper ones. There are eleven species
of Geraniums to be found in Britain, viz. :—

No. \.—G. scmguineum .—One of the most
beautiful of the genus, and often grown in
gardens under the name of its variety,
lancastriense. It is chiefly found on limestone
hills, near the sea especially ; it is a feature on
the Great Ormes Head in Wales. It is of a
more shrubby habit than any of the others ; the
fiowers are a rich crimson, about the size of a
penny.

No. 2.— G. sylvqiicum is a much rarer species,
growing in damp meadows, fiowers of a lilac
purple colour, and not very like to be dis¬
tinguished from No. 3 by a casual observer.

No. 3.— G. pratcnse. —Avery handsome plant,
having flowers of a lovely violet, very large. I
am happy to say it is well distributed. It grows
luxuriantly in limestone districts, and is frequent
on the banks of the Thames. This and No. 2
are often between 2 and 3 feet high.

No. 4.— G. pyrenaicum .—Another species not
likely to be found ; flowers bright purple. The
root leaves have very long stalks. This grows
from 1£ to 2 feet high ; it is a doubtful native,
but occurs pretty frequently. I have found it
on the Thames bank, a mile or two from Eton
College, where it is difficult to say it is not
native, being a long way from any habitation.

These four species are all of an upright
growth, have large, deeply-cut leaves on long
stalks, No. 1 on a smaller scale than the other
throe. The following seven are all low-trailing
plants :—

No. & — G, molle .—Common everywhere, fields
and hedges, the leaves entire, roundish, not cut,
very softly hairy, the fiowers very tiny, pale
pink.

No. 6.— G. rotundifo'ium is not at all likely
to be met with, but is very similar to No. 5—a
larger edition, in fact.

No. 7.— G. jmsillum .—Leaves like No. 5, but
deeper lobed (not cut), chiefly differs in having
the carpels (the vestel containing the seed)
downy—smooth in the other.

No. 8.— G. columbtnum .—A little gem, flowers
about the size of Herb Robert, bright pink, on
stalks not thicker than fine thread ; this at once
distinguishes it; the leaves are much cut and
divided, and have long stalks —not very frequent.

No. 9.— G. clissectum .—Leaves like No. 8, but
flowers borne on thicker stalks, very short,
much smaller, bright rose.

No. 10.— G . Kohertianum —Herb Robert—
the most frequent of any, except No. 5, and
known everywhere as the “wild Geranium,”
leaves larger and very much cut, the whole I
plant usually being of a rich red colour, the
flower bright rose, common on every hedge bank.

No. 11.— G. lucidum .—Entirely different to all
the rest, the leaves smooth and shining , not
unlike the Ivy-leaved Toadflax, grows chiefly
on limestone cliffs, old walls, castles, Ac.; it is
a local plant, very pretty ; I grow it on my
rockery ; flowers bright pink. I have endea¬
voured to describe the above in plain English, and
as well as I can without ocular demonstration.

Erodiums. — There are three species of
Erodium, which “ G. A. N.” is not very likely to
find except by ther-’sdkside. 1

Digitized t i -,n\ «o[e

No. 1.— Erodium ciciUarium. —The most
common species varies in size from 3 or 4 inches
across to stems 2 feet long, the former inland, I
the latter by the sea ; flower not unlike the
Herb Robert, but leaves entirely different to a
Geranium, being pinnate (t e., arranged up the
leaf stalk like those of the common male Fern,
Sumach, Ac.); grows on tops of walls, or in
sandy banks. I have found it by the Thames,
near Teddington.

No. 2.— E. maritimum .—Grows always by
the sea, grows as close as a Moss to the ground,
dust of roads, Ac. ; leaves quite different to
Nos. 1 and 3, not unlike those of the Elm tree
when small.

No. 3 .—E. vioschatum .—This is very like
No. 1, always growing by the sea; stems very
long, thick, and prostrate ; covered with c’ammy
hair, and smelling strongly of musk.

I trust your correspondent will be able now to
distinguish between the different species. He
should gather all he finds, and note the diffe¬
rences. The Geraniums most commonly found
are Nos. 3, 5, 7, 9, 10; the others are mostly
local. _ J. R. Neve.

My attention having been called to a para¬
graph in your paper of last week in which
“G. A. Newman’’asks for information as to
the difference between Geranium and Pelar-

f onium, I have much pleasure in telling what
know about it. The genus Geranium con¬
sists of perennial herbaceous plants with regular
flowers, displaying the symmetry proper to
Thalamifloral exogens—*.e. t a calyx of five
Bepals, a corolla of as many petals, equal and
similar to each other, ten stamens in two rows,
and a pistil of five carpels coherent by their
bases around an axis, which elongates, to form
the top of which the seed vessels, each contain¬
ing a single seed, are suspended when ripe, the
awn, or indurated style by which each capsule
hangs, curling up so as to show that its inner
surface is without hairs. More than a dozen
species of this genus are among our native
British plants. The species of Pelargonium are
not natives of Britain, but are favourites in
cultivation. There are shrubby plants with
flowers more or less irregular. Many persons
who have heard of this distinction in their
flowers have been misled by an appearance of
regularity, the result of cultivation, into a
belief that what is called a Scarlet Geranium
is correctly named. That plant is, in fact,
Pelargonium zonale, which appears in many
beautiful varieties, for which the popular name
Geranium cannot easily be superseded by the
more scientific appellation Zonal Pelargonium.
In its most cultivated form a trace of irregu¬
larity may be detected in a little hole on one
side of the flower as if it had been pierced by a
pin. This is regarded by botanists as the
cavity of a Bpur belonging to one of the sepals
and adherent to the pedicel or flower stalk.
Small as is this cavity it is believed to indicate
a small natural affinity with Tropaeolum, of
which the spur is so much larger and more con¬
spicuous. Then if the stamens of Pelargoniums
be examined it will be found that those of the
inner row are not perfect, only two having
fertile anthers, and they smaller than those
of the outer row. In the awn, or indurated
style which bears the ripened seed, we may also
see that Pelargonium is not Geranium, for its
inner surface wears a beard of hairs conspicuous
enough to contrast well with the smoothness of
the corresponding part in Geraniums.

__ John Gibbs.

This is a subject which puzzles many, “ A
Reader ” not excepted. “G. A. Newman ” must
have notioed this when he asked to have a
further explanation in his of the 22nd ult. “ A
Reader” is perfectly right in saying what are
generally known as Geraniums are Pelargoniums,
but is perfectly wrong in mixing up* Pelargo¬
niums with “ Storks’Bills,” which belong to the
genus Erodium. The principal genera of the
order Geraniacem are Geranium, Erodium,
Pelargonium, and Monsonia. The two former
are natives of North America, Northern Asia,
and Europe. A good many species are in¬
digenous to the British Isles. We will first
take Geranium (Crane’s Bill), which is largely
represented. Among the most common are
Geranium pratense (Meadow Crane’s Bill),

I Robertiana (Herb Robert), lucidum, dissectum,
molle Ac. They are all herbaceous plants,

with multipartite stipulate leaves, and regular
flowers, having their parts in fives, with
the exception of stamens, which number
ten, and cohere in one bundle. The carpels
also cohere and lengthen out after flowers
ing, resembling a beak; hence the name
Crane’s Bill. The Erodium (Stork’s Bill) differs
in having five of its stamens alternately shorter
than the rest, with no anthers, the consolidated
points of the carpels growing out sometimes to
the length of 2 or 3 inches, this extra lengthen¬
ing giving rise to the name Stork’s Bill.
Erodium maritimum is found in quantities in
some localities along the coast. Pelargonium
is a genus of shrubby habitated plants, and are
what generally pass for Geraniums. They are
natives of the Cape of Good Hope, a few from
Africa, St. Helena, and Australia. The zonales
belong to this genera, and are descended from
P. zonale and P. inquinans, our French section
from P. grandiflorum and cucullatum, the Ivy-
leaf group are represented by descendants of
P. hederxfolium and P. peltatum, whilst P.
quercifolium and P. filicifolium furnished us
with the cut-leaf kinds. They differ from
the two former generaa in their slightly
irregular flowers. The calyx is spurred
and adnate to the pedicel, as may be seen
by making a cross section under the flower.
The allied genus Tropaeolum, T. majus and
peregrinum (Canary Creeper), has regular
flowers, but the calyx is spurred and free.
Another mistake is often made here, the
Tropieolums are often called Nasturtiums, which
must not be mixed with the true Nasturtium
(Watercress) belonging to the natural order
Crucifer®. Oxalis is also closely allied to the
Geraniums, and is easily distinguished by its
compound trifoliate leaves. J. G. Cork.

ROSES.

Planting Roses.— In Gardening, 29th
November, an article headed 44 Hints for
Beginners,” and under the head of 44 Roses,” a
remark as to planting, 44 the roots should be
9 or 10 inches deep,” occurs. I think 44 J.D.,”the
writer of the article, has surely made a slip
here, as, unfortunately, the fault of beginners is
to plant too deep. My experience in planting
Roses is to place the roots not deeper than
5 inches, treading the soil very firm around the
bush, so that the roots receive the full benefit
of sunshine in spring and summer, and the
genial rain has free access to the vital parts.
Burial to the extent of 9 or 10 inches means
“burying the dead alive,” or, in other words,
courting failure in Rose culture. I should also
advise mulching the ground with manure after
planting in November, and forking it in March.
—La France.

12332.— Tea Roses. —Niphetos is not one
of the vigorous growing kinds, and it would
not succeed all the year in a sitting-room. If
the pot containing it could be pluDged to the
rim in a cold frame that would be an advantage.
If there is not any glasshouses or frames, it
would be better to plant out-of-doors. Tea
Roses will grow well out-of-doors almost any¬
where. In wet soil it is necessary to drain, and the
bed or border where they are planted should be
raised 9 inches or a foot above the surface. If
the soil is heavy plenty of stable manure should
be mixed with it. A little light peat soil or
leaf-mould would also improve it.—J. D. E.

12331.— Oloth of Gold Rose.— A very
near relative had at Salterton, Devon, one of
the finest Cloth of Gold Roses I ever saw. It
had every year an immense number of the finest
bunches of flowers that could be desired. From
this plant, at my request, a cutting was taken,
which became a strong plant, and it was then
sent me. I planted it in good soil, in the best
situation possible, now about twenty years
since ; it has grown well, but up to the present
time I have never seen a flower. From the
difficulty of flowering the Cloth of Gold, I pre¬
sume its general cultivation has been given up.
I would suggest to your correspondent to try
the Climbing Devoniensis. I have it in perfec¬
tion, planted eleven years since. It is now 60
feet high, and flowers well.—K. K.

-Try Cooling k Son, Bath. They profess to keep all

the old Roses ; but Cloth of Gold, though lovely when you
can get any flowers, is a shy bloomer, not fit for a small
collection.—AJ B.T;, Bait Avglia.

- “ A. M Z.”—l c*n supply true plants of this Rose.

1 —R. W. Proctor, Atbfute Road, Lhesterjlcl-i

Dec. 13, 1834]

GARDENLNG ILLUSTRATED

SOS

i|

THE GREAT DAFFODIL.

Of the whole race of Daffodils whatsoever, this,
our grand College Garden Daffodil, Narcissus
maximus, is the most stately, and also the richest
io colouring. In good seasons it attains a height
of from 2 feet to 3 feet, its great trumpet-
mouthed chalices being borne aloft on the
tapering fluted stalks with bravery. That it is
quite distinct from that usually imported from
Holland and generally Bold as N. maxima* by
the seedsmen I am fully convinced, and the
tradition is that it was raised from imported
seeds in the Dublin University Garden, from
which place it cer¬
tainly has for many
years been distributed.

The figure shows an
average flower natural
size, and, as will be
clearly seen, the broad
eipanded month to
the crown is an espe¬
cial feature. In the
foliage also it is most
distinct—so much so
that this variety may
be readily recognised
almost as soon as the
tips of its leaves ap¬
pear above the soil.

The leaves are nar¬
row, rarely more than
half an inch broad, of a
peculiar blueish green
or glaucous tint, and
they are also twisted
in a peculiar way. So
far, I am sorry to say,

1 have failed to obtain
seeds from this grand
variety, although I
have used the pollen
of many other kinds
besides its own. If
seeds of it could be
obtained, one might
hope that it would
prove the best of
parents to a still finer
large • flowered race.

Lovers of Daffodils
who have not looked
over Hale's “ Eden,”
an illustrated garden¬
ing publication of the
last century, should do
so, os it contains some
quaint lore aneut seed¬
ling Daffodils.

F. W. B.

vermin amongst and under them. If a green
edging Is wanted to large beds, have a broad
band of Irish Ivy; it is easily managed, and
vermin dislike it. Watch the plants carefully,
and if anything is eaten search out or trap the
depredator. He is sure to be lurking near.
When the withered stems of plants are cut
down cover the dormant orowns well and see
that no vermin are lurking about them ready
to feed on the young buds as they push in
®pn n fj! this is a fertile cause of plants disap¬
pearing in winter. Hand pick all grubs on
Rosea as fast as they appear. The use of Haw
thorn for fencing is a fertile source of the preva-

HINTS FOR
BEGINNERS.—IV.

Vermin.

The last matter which
is likely to trouble a
beginner is the depre¬
dations of garden tne-
mies. First, as a pre¬
ventative, keep all
plantain robust health.

It is the weakly, badly-
grown plant that gets
smothered in green fly
aDd falls a prey to the
slug, the snail, the
woodlouse, and the
caterpillar. Second,
encourage the small
birds, especially black¬
birds, robins, thrushes,
starlings, wrens, tit¬
mice, swallows, martens, and fly catchers.
Stir the soil in the autumn an inch or so
below the surface, except among surface-rooting
spring flowers, and leave it for the robins and
blackbirds to look over before dusk. The
eggs of sings, snails, and many grubs will in
this way be got rid of, as they are deposited
about an inch under ground. Walla and fences
should be searched in winter for shell snails.
They wake up very hungry in spring and do
much damage to young growth. Have no tile
edgings or Box edgings, but broad bands of neat
rock plants on stones carefully bedded and
arranged so that there are nt> lurking-dacee for

Digitized by kjOtKne

introduced into a garden at all, or tolerated by
intelligent people when introduced there. Moat
English people have fairly good taste in arrang¬
ing flowers, so that all that is necessary to
enable them to arrange their gardens well is to
get their minds wholly free from the evil
influence of the false ideas which have been in
vogue for the last twenty or thirty years. Avoid
geometry, carpet bedding, and every attempt to
make plants form sheets of colour, mounds,
baskets, or look like anything else but them¬
selves. . Contrast mossy-like cushions of vegeta¬
tion with leafy plants, feathery plants with
those having broad leaves, plants with graceful,
drooping habit with
those ol an upright
growth, aud get as
much variety as pos¬
sible. Try to under-
stand what artists
mean by breadth of
effect, which may be
described, as regards
colour, as absence of
spottiness, and as re¬
gards form as the sub¬
ordination of details to
a general effect, and the
absence of a multitude
of forms all of about
equal importance.

Neatness and order
are very good things
in a garden, but many
of the horrors of un¬
natural effect and mu¬
tilation of plants are
perpetrated in their
name. A garden is a
pleasure ground, a
place for plants to
show their beauty,
and nothing that in¬
terferes with that
should be introduced
if it can be avoided.
Walks are necessary
for obvious reasons,
but there is no neces¬
sity why they should
have a stiff edging of
Box, or, still worse,
ornamental tiles. All
how kindly many plants

The 0 rcat Daffodil (Narcissus
maxim us).

lence of Rose enemies. The worst pest must have noticed __ _ _

of the suburban garden is the leather take to the edge of a gravel path, where they
jacket or daddy long-legs grub. It can root into the beds ana spread on the
seldom appears to any great extent gravel. Choose such plants for edging, and let
iu the country, but. the absence of the boundary between gravel and bed be
insect eating birds in large towns irregular. If a broad band of stones be sunk in
enables the insects to multiply without the bed and covered with rock plants so much
molestation. W here its presence is the better. Such irregular edgings to walks can
suspected the earth should be stirred only offend the eyes of people who have no
with a short Btick round the plants and feeling for beauty. Grass, where it meets a
left for the robins to examine. In walk, requires to be cut to a sharp edge merely
towns hand picking is the only remedy, as a matter of convenience. All uninteresting
The grubs hide themselves about an routine work in a garden should be reduced to a
inch underground during the daytime minimum, but where Grass meets a flower bed a
close to their food. Where brown, chopped edge is objectionable, and should be
dead patches appear on a lawn they hidden by plants which lie partly on the turf,
are usually caused by this grub, *hich Few things have a more beautiful effect than a
is very fond of Grass turf. group of upright-growing plants such as

Arrangement. | Mulleins, Foxgloves, Delphiniums, or Cam-

la small gardens there is not much panulas, rising from amongst low-growing
room for right or wrong in the matter | plants, joining on to turf as if growing out of it.
of arrangement. The beds should be Low-growing plants should never have their
kept as large as possible, and all small leaves trimmed off, but should be hidden by
beds cut out on turf avoided. The other plants when their bloom is over. Bulbs
walks should be simple and as few as are especially injured by being cut down, as the
possible consistent with comfort and leaves make the new bulb for next year,
access to the plants. Dwarf plants i Division and renewal.— All plants in a
should be arranged as much as possible state of nature have some provision in their
in sheets and tall plants singly or in economy for finding fresh supplies of food. They
clamps. An effort should be made to do not remain many years in the same spot, but
secure a long period of bloom and a general show move about in some way, either by sowing
of colour over the beds at all seasons; but beware seed, by producing suckers and offsets, or by

of spreading all the plants evenly over all the
beds, so that every dozen yards of the garden
resemble every other dozen yards. Let there
be regions of things—Daffodils and Soillas here,
Primroses and Hep&ticaa there, Tulips at
another place, Anemones at a fourth, and so on
throughout the flowering season. Avoid all
arranging of plants in rows or patterns ; that
kind of thing is utterly childish, and wholly
out of keeping with the character of hardy
plants. The only wonder is that placing plants
like the rivets in a boiler could ever have been

producing new growths at the side of the old.
In many of our garden plants, and especially in
double flowers, the natural growth is interfered
with, more substance is sent into the flowers.
We can keep many plants going for a long time
with careful feeding, but a time comes when
the centres of the clumps become barren,
and vigorous growth only takes placo
round the outside of the clumps, where
the roots can penetrate fresh soil. When
that takes place removal or renewal be¬
comes necessary. The best time to effect this

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

506

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 13 , 1884 -

ia when the plants are dormant—a season which
varies with different individuals. The two best
times for division are just as the plants have
matured their growth for the season, or just as
they begin to start in growth for the season.
With spring flowering plants the early time is
the beat, but they must be well watered after
planting. The hot, dry weather prevents the
cut parts from rotting, and the plants root freely
in autumn, and are ready to flower well in
spring. With late-flowering plants spring is
the best time. Growth commences then in the
tops before the roots push out; the plants are
full of vitality, and, if carefully divided, each
crown or bud having some old roots attached,
they will establish themselves at once. Bulbs
are best moved immediately the leaves have
completely died down. Lilies should be moved
when the new bulbs are completed, and before
fresh root fibres are sent out.

Planting.

Beginners often make great mistakes in plant¬
ing. The crowns of plants of tufted growth are,
as a rule, just under the level of the soil. The
leaves spring upward and the roots downward
from the same point. With plants of that habit
the soil, if previously prepared, should be dug
out sufficiently to contain the roots of the plant
spread out flat to their full length. The earth
in the hole should be made to form a cone, the
tip of which is just so high that when the plant
is set on the top of it, with the roots spread out
all round, it will be at its proper level. The
roots should be spread evenly round over the
surface of the cone, and the holes then filled up;
the earth should be made firm, so that the plants
cannot readily be pulled out. Bulbous and
tuberous-rooted plants have their crowns deeper
in the soil. These require to be noticed, so that
they may be planted at the right depth. Many
bulbs and tubers seem to prefer a firm soil
beneath them, on the top of which their roots
ramble, and a loose, rich soil above them, as if
they were intended to feed on what the firm soil
intercepts in its passage downwards.

Cuttings. —Many plants will root if merely
out into bits and dibbled into light soil in a
cold frame or shady place, but others require
more skilful handling. A bud is to a certain
extent a separate plant, and the year’s growth
from a bud is the same. If a year’s growth
from a bud is carefully pulled off, we have a
cutting with a heel which in many cases easily
becomes a plant, it being only necessary in
some instances to take off the sappy top of the
shoot. The part of a shoot where the leaf and
bud are formed is called a node, and the space
between bud and bud an internode. Growth
and vital energy are strongest at the node, and
if a cutting is made by cutting through the
stem just under a node, it has a better chance
of rooting than if cut anywhere else. The
ascending sap is changed into wood by the
leaves, which wood then descends to the roots.
The wood from each branch of an old tree can
often be traced down the trunk. It is this de¬
scending sap which first forms the lump of wood
known as a callus at the lower end of a cutting
and then forms roots. Cuttings are found to
root better if a larger surface is cut than is pro¬
duced by a cut across the stem ; this is effected
by splitting the cutting at the lower end and
inserting a minute flake of flint or crockery to
keep the split open. Cuttings treated in this way
emit roots from all the parts cut. It is neces¬
sary to bear in mind that until a cutting has
made roots it lives wholly on its own substance,
and is dependent for moisture on the air.
What sap is moving in it still passes
into the leaves, and is there changed
into wood. The most important thing, there¬
fore, is to keep the leaves fresh. A Rose can
be propagated from a single bud inserted in
damp sand if the leaf attached to it can be kept
fresh until the little bit of bark attached to
the bud emits roots. Therefore, as a golden
rule with cuttings, keep the leaves from
flagging, everything else will take care of itself;
only do not slop water about the soil, but let I
that be barely damp. Some plants do not root
readily from cuttings. These can be propa¬
gated by layers. A layer is simply half a
cutting. We cat the stem half through at a
node, and split it up nearly to the next node, but
we leave the upper aide of the shoot intact and
insert the lower side into the earth as a cutting.
The effect of this is that the sap still passes up
and down the shoqfr,-*nd that parfrof it which

Digitized by (.jOOQlC

finds its way to the under side forms the callus
| and the roots. The whole operation merely
keeps the cutting alive until it is rooted, which
it would not have life enough to do if cut off
at once.

Cutting down Plants after Flowering.

This is a fertile source of evil. Early flower¬
ing plants which die down in summer and begin
to move again in the autumn should be cut down
when the flower stems wither, and have the
earth carefully drawn over the crowns ; but with
regard to late-flowering plants the balance of
advantage would seem to be in favour of not
cutting them down until spring. The ]>ros and
cons of the matter would seem to be these :
when the stems are cut down water lodges in
the remains of them, corroding and freezing
the crowns of the plants from which the new
growth takes place in spring; the dead stems
gather the withered leaves round them, which
protects the crowns from injury from frost.

If the stems are not cut down it requires
some trouble to keep the earth close enough to
them in winter to prevent slugs, snails, and
other vermin from congregating about the
crowns and eating the young buds in spring.
In the last very mild winter I had two clumps
of Japanese Anemones almost killed through
this. They did not seem to be starting as the
others were doing, and on removing the earth
I found quite a colony of snails living on the
young shoots. Perhaps the best advice would
be to cut the plants down under the ground and
cover the crowns with soil where that attention
can be given, but where it cannot, leave the stems
as they are until spring. Do not in any case
chop them down roughly, leaving 2 or 3 inches
of hollow stems above ground. J. D.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 478 .)

Watering.

There is no question about the value of water
to a thirsty land. The withered plant imme¬
diately recovers under the invigorating influ¬
ence of the gentle shower ; but artificial water¬
ing is seldom thorough enough to be really
serviceable. In this little island home of ours we
seldom regard this question from a really prac¬
tical and economical point of view. The reason
perhaps is, hot, dry summers have of late years
been the exception, not the rule. Dragging
water by hand labour is not only very hard
work, but it is not economical, judged by
results. In these days of improved machinery,
the distribution of water over the land in a dry
time should not be a question of water pots.
Irrigation, to be of great value to the crops,
must be efficiently done, and, in the majority of
cases, if the water has to be carried in water
pots, it will not be efficiently done. I have seen
this often ; if a set of men be told to water any
given area, unless told how much water they
are to use, the work is sure to be scamped.
This may perhaps arise through some confusion
of ideas as to what constitutes a good soaking
of water. Scarcely any two people who are not
really and practically acquainted with the
subject will agree as to the amount of water any
given space should have given to it in dry
weather to suit the wants of any particular
crop ; but it is certain the majority would not
give water enough, and very many would be
content with just damping the surface. And if
from the deficiency of the water supply, or any
other cause, the soil watered cannot be moistened
as far as the roots extend, it will be better not to
water at all, but to counteract the drought and
encourage growth by other means. In the
neighbourhood of towns, where the water is laid
into the houses, the garden may have a good
supply, and by pipes and hose may be easily dis¬
tributed. Whenever a bed of plants is watered
in the open air, the earth should be stirred next
morning to prevent baking and cracking by the
sun, and to check evaporation.

A very few minutes will suffice to stir with
the Dutch hoe a large space, and it is wonderful
how quickly the water ascends into the clouds
again if this stirring be neglected. The best
water is that which has been exposed to the
atmosphere and the sunshine in an open tank, or
pond, or river. The water from a deep well
should never be used until it has been exposed

for twenty-four hours—it chills too much.
Plants watered with cold pump or spring water
cannot thrive. It should also be borne in mind
that large quantities of water cannot at any
time be passed through the land without
making some change in it. If the water con¬
tains any manurial substance the earth acts as
a filter. If, on the other hand, the water is
clear and the soil rich, or fairly so, the latter
may part with some of its richness to the water
on its passage through, so that watering in all
cases may not be an unmixed good, and it may,
if inefficiently done, be a positive injury. On
this latter point I may say that surface water¬
ing — i.e., just damping the surface an inch or
two deep—must do harm, even when carried out
persistently, by the encouragement given to
surface rooting, which, however valuable when
legitimately produced, are of no use when
created in such an artificial manner, being too
much under the influence of a set of circum¬
stances whose permanence cannot be relied
upon. What plants, as well as animals, require
is steadiness of treatment; and those things
with a thin stratum of soil just above their
roots, moistened every twenty-four hours, are
exposed to fluctuations not beneficial to steady
growth. I have seen plants exposed to this
treatment, the leaves shrivelling with the heat,
and the edges all scorched and brown, arising
from the alternate drought and moisture, chills,
and heats of surface watering. The best time
to water is in the evening when the sun has lost
its power for the day.

Mulching.

This term is now pretty generally understood,
as well as its object. In dry summers 3 inches
of manure or Grass, or a loose surface of soil,
conserves the natural moisture of the ground,
and tends to keep the earth at an equal tempera
ture. It saves an immense amount of labour in
watering; indeed, watering is but a sorry
substitute for mulching. If Peas are mulched
18 inches on each side the rows, the earth will
be kept cool, and if it should be necessary to
water, the moisture will remain about the roots
of the plants instead of escaping into the air
again within a few hours of the time it was
given. Mulching the rows of Peas will do much
to keep off that dire enemy mildew, by pre¬
venting the check which leads to it. The spores
of mildew are doubtless always in existence. It
is only when plants are in a fit condition
(arising from stagnation of some kind) for their
reception that they do real harm. Mulching of
Lettuces and other salad plants not only saves
labour, but it gives a freshness and crispness to
the produce that cannot be obtained by any
other means. Mulching Black Currants, Rasp¬
berries, Strawberries, and nearly all kinds of
fruit is absolutely necessary to their well-doing.
The mulching of wall trees, especially those on
the south wall, saves a deal of watering, or, at
least, it would do if the trees were to have justice
done them, which in all cases I am sorry to say
they do not, caused in some instances by lake-
warmness in such matters, in others by sheer care¬
lessness. A mulch over newly transplanted shrubs
or trees is of great benefit, more so, in fact, than
anything else which can be done; and it is very
rare for a plant well mulched to die immediately
after removal. Mulching is of equal importance
among flowers as it is with fruit and vegetables.
A good mulch several inches thick over the moat
delicate Roses, including the Teas, will generally
save the main roots, so that the plants can start
again, and a mulch of Cocoa fibre over choice
bulbs in winter will be a great help. Oftentimes,
in sheltering a plant whose hardiness we are not
quite sure about, a mulching round the crown
will save it.

Shading.

Shade to a newly-transplanted, and, con¬
sequently, disrooted plant is of great value in
mitigating the effect of a check in the case of
any plant such as Celery, where the application
of shade, by laying green boughs across the
trenches, is so easy. In transplanting Bmall
plants daring a short spell of bright sunshine in
spring or summer, a few branches, placed
upright in the ground amongst them, is a very
great help, by keeping the soil cool till the roots
begin to work again. I have often experienced
the use and benefit of this, and the trouble is
almost nil when one is living among trees which
can spare a few branches. A^ain, in sowing
seeds, 1 have iieveir had any difficulty in getting

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Dec. 13, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTIL'lTED

507

I the smallest seeds to germinate, in the hottest
and dry eat weather. If we well moisten the
land before sowing, stirring it about with the
fork to make sure that all the soil is moist, then
rake smooth, sow the seeds, and shade by laying
mats or Rhubarb leaves on the bed till the seeds
germinate ; green branches will do as well—in
short, anything which keeps off the hot rays of
the sun will do. The spells of bright, hot
weather will probably be of short duration, and
by the time the plants are up the weather may
have changed, and the shading be dispensed
with. Some people say “ Wait for rain,” but I do
not believe in being controlled by circumstances,
if it be possible (which it generally is) to get
above them. Besides, a week or a fortnight
icay be lost, and can never be caught up alto¬
gether. Another and a very easy way of
shading is to cover the seed-beds with netting,
in the same way os w'e protect from birds. The
farther away the nets are from the beds the
better. A single thickness of old fishing-net for
shading, and also for sheltering, is far more
effective for both purposes than those who have
not experimented with them will, I daresay, be
prepared to admit.

Sheltering.

I have adverted above to the benefits I have
witnessed arise, in the way of shelter and pro¬
tection, from a simple thickness of netting, such
as is commonly used for protecting fruit in
Bummer from birds. Anyone can try the experi¬
ment for themselves. Here, say, we have a bed
of Lettuce, or Cabbage, or Cauliflowers, or any
other early crop, one naif is covered with netting,
supported on forked sticks, or something of
sufficient strength to support the netting firmly
in position. The covering should hang over on
the sides, and be pegged down to the ground,
the other half of the bed to be altogether exposed.
The first idea which crops up in the mind of the
inexperienced is, of what use can such a thin
covering be to any crop ? But it breaks the wind,
cuts up the cold icy currents, and secures a quiet
shelter whilst the storm rages outside. If on a
cold windy day i n winter we stand on the lee side of
a White Thorn hedge—though it may be nothing
more, perhaps, than a very narrow line of leaf¬
less twigs—yet how it shelters, how it extracts
the icy coldness from the east wind as it filters
through. The netting acts in the same way as
the leafless hedge, by breaking up and separat¬
ing the particles of icy wind as they hurry
across the garden. Gardening is very much a
business of expedients, of making the best and
most of things ; and in the matter of shelter a
great deal may be done with cheap and simple
means. Shelters made of Reeds secured to a
thin structure of deal laths, made movable at
pleasure from place to place, are very valuable.
Evergreen branches of Yew, Laurel, or Box are
useful in early spring for sheltering rows of
early Peas or Beans. The Bracken Ferns, cut
just before the fronds change colour, when dried
are tough and lasting, and are excellent for pro¬
tecting anything which requires it. A few
fronds thrust into the head of a Rose, or
scattered over its roots, may save its life in a
severe winter, and the same principle may be
adopted with any plant of whose hardiness we
may not be quite assured. On the rockery,
plants which may be quite hardy enough to
stand a severe winter when it comes in regular
order, and continues steady till it departs, may
succumb to an alternate freezing and thawing,
which is the usual characteristic of our
winters. Here it is where a sheltering mulch
of Cocoa fibre or dry peat has such value by
sheltering the roots from the sudden changes.
The dry Fern will be most useful for shelter¬
ing the Celery, and the Cauliflowers, and
Lettuces, and many other things during
a severe frost. Dry Rushes, which may be
l cnt from marshy ground, are valuable for the
lsazne purpose, as is also damaged hay or dry
flitter of any kind. It is best in sheltering any-
hing from frost which is moderately hardy,
[> let the ground get frozen a little first. As a
ule, when a severe frost is coming on there is
sign given of it—a sort of skirmishing frost
i r two before the real enemy comes. And when
fche ground is crumbled over by the first frost,
vod we can see the wave of cold air waiting, is
‘.he time to apply the coverings and make all
aug, and as long as the frost continues,
vnether it be a long period or a short one,,the
overings should remain, End''when tl
reaks up do not be in a hul^Jfjyykov

a day or two for the warm genial air to pene¬
trate the covering, and raise the temperature
around the plants, as sudden changes are bad
for vegetable tissues.

Weeds and Weeding.

Weeds occupy a prominent position in the
economy of the garden and the farm. Some
people think and say that weeds are evil
things, that there is no good in them,
that, in fact, they are the millstone which con¬
tinually hangs about the cultivator’s neck. And
in the same sense in which dirt has been de¬
scribed as being only matter in the wrong
place, so weeds represent matter converted to a
wrong purpose, though weeds serve a good
purpose in stimulating industry, and industry
keeps the crops up to their work. Archimedes
is reported to have said if he could obtain
a fulcrum he would invent a lever which
should move the world ; but, as I take it, in¬
dustry is the motive power of the world—all
things yield to it. And who can say how much
of this industry, so far as the cultivator is con¬
cerned, is depending upon the growth of weeds ?
If there were no weeds the dullard and the
sluggard would never hoe his crops, and the
plants would lack one great incentive to a
rapid, healthy growth; so that altogether,
when rightly viewed, I am disposed to take a
charitable view about weeds. Until they get
the upper hand they may be regarded as friends
in disguise ; and if they do get the upper hand
they are a perfect nuisance. When the weeds
are small a man with a Dutch hoe can run through
a large piece of ground in a short time, and if the
work is done on a fine sunny day thousands will
perish, and the plants receive that impetus to
renewed growth which a freshly-stirred surface
always gives. I once told a gentleman, whose
garden was in a bad condition from the pre¬
sence of so many weeds, that one year’s seeding
caused seven years’ weeding. He could not
quite see the force of the aphorism, but he lived
to realise its truth. It is much easier, and I
need not say a great deal cheaper, to have land
clean than weedy. I once heard a farmer com¬
plain that he spent more money in labour per
acre than his neighbour did, and yet his neigh¬
bour’s land was cleaner than his, and he could
not understand it, or professed that he could
not, although the matter was plain. One man
went into the fields early with the hoe—the
horse-hoe where it was practicable—and else¬
where the hand-tool was employed. It is an
an old saying, “There is more work
done with the head than the hands,”
and head work is usually better done, and
a supreme effort should always be made to
cut down the weeds when small, so that
they may lie on the land and die. When
a piece of land becomes weedy it forms a happy
hunting ground for snails and slugs, and other
deleterious things ; and such things, like weeds,
when numerous, are evidences of neglect. A
well-cultivated and a cleanly garden is not so
much infested with the gardener’s enemies, for
the simple reason that they will not live with a
man who is always beating up their quarters.
Depend upon it there is nothing like good culti¬
vation, which is implied in the words “ deep
culture” and frequent “surface stirring,” for
getting rid of weeds, and slugs, snails, and
caterpillars, larvre, maggots, &c., which give
people so much trouble. It is an admitted fact
that weakly plants are more exposed to the
attacks of their enemies than are those in
vigorous health. E. Hobday.

HEATING SMALL GREENHOUSES.

It appears from the number of queries which
have been sent to Gardening lately, asking for
information as to the cheapest and most suitable
heating apparatus for the smallest size of
amateurs’ greenhouses, that the public have not
yet got just the thing they want. We know
that many use the ordinary oil stove, which they
can get for a few shillings, and, by careful and
clever management and close attention, succeed
in preserving their plants through a severe
winter without accident. At least one corre¬
spondent of Gardening has described somewhat
graphically his experience of oil stoves and the
disasters he has met with in using them, and no
doubt many other amateurs could confirm his
statements. That these stoves can be used suc¬
cessfully is quite evident from the number in
operation in “ people’s gardens ” and other

places, but, as has already been often pointed
out, so far as heating power is concerned, the
effect in all of them is very local, owing to their
shape, which is that of a square or circular up¬
right block. If one of them is placed in one
corner of a greenhouse, which is, say, 10 feet
long by 6 feet wide, the current of hot air will
rise at once to the roof, and if there is no exit
it will spread along the whole surface, effectually
preventing the cold from penetrating in that
direction, but leaving the front sashes more or
less unprotected. Something of the same kind
will occur if the stove is placed in any other
part of the house, and although it may be quite
efficient so far as merely preserving the plants
is concerned, still it is clear that one particular
place will receive more than its due share of
heat, and the plants there wull suffer ac¬
cordingly. But owners of small greenhouses
should havo it in their power, even in cold and
unfavourable climes, not only to preserve their
plants, but to flower a few Geraniums, &c., all
the winter through, and when thi? cannot be
managed by a stove alone, pipes of some kind
should be used. The principal objection to
those at present offered by makers, so far as
very small greenhouses are concerned, is their
cost. I think an amateur who has put up a
small house which has cost him a five-pound
note would grudge to spend forty or sixty
shillings on a heating apparatus. Besides this,
those heat generators which send out hot air
through pipes are mostly too high to be placed
under a stage, and the same objection applies to
them as to the simple stove—if they could bo
placed there they would be too near the bottoms
of the pots. Some of them, indeed, look more
like frames for drying clothes on than contri¬
vances for heating greenhouses. This, however,
seems unavoidable from the style of lamp
employed. It is very evident, and it has often
been remarked in Gardening, that in order to
diffuse the heat in an equable manner the pipes
should extend along the whole front of a lean-to,
and go right round a span-roofed house, and
should also be as low as possible, so that the hot
air may creep first up the walls, then up the
front and side sashes, and finally up the inside
of the sloping roof. Some makers have made
a move in the right direction by combining the
oil stove with tne hot-water pipe. More than
one apparatus is advertised at thirty shil¬
lings, but they are made on the clothes-
frame principle. Another, which seems
very much like the right thing, costs
45s., or 70s., or 90s., according to size and finish.
It is no use asking the owners of five or ten-
pound greenhouses to spend three or four pounds
on a boiler and pipes. They must just be
allowed to stick to the oil stove for the present,
unless they havo got the old fire-brick furnace
and flue. The pipes of some of these heaters
are made of brass or copper, or cast or sheet
iron. As the oil stove itself costs only a few
shillings, surely it might be possible, by using,
say, thin galvanised sheet iroD, to make a small
boiler, and a flow and return pipe from 6 to 10
feet long, that would be cheaper and more
efficient than any of those at present in the
market. As there need be little if any pressure
in the boiler and pipes, perhaps it may yet be
discovered that tin could be used, if it could
only be made non-corrosive. P. R.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN,

GARDEN PEAS.

The retail seed catalogue of a well-known seed
house gives a list of 114 varieties, or assumed
varieties, of Peas, and it is not to be wondered
at if gardeners in view of this bewildering
enumeration are found asking in despair, What
shall we select to grow ? There are several
new Peas announced for this season, and if the
various catalogues could be gone through
and a list of Peas made, there would be some
200 or more different names, if not different
varieties. It is the annual influx of new varie¬
ties that makes the work of selection so per¬
plexing. Let us try to make a selection of sorts
likely to be useful. What shall we start with ?
Clearly American Wonder, a good hardy variety.
It grows only from 10 inches to 12 inches in
height, and its haulm is covered with pods, each
containing from seven to ten Peas. It is one of
the bent l or oaHy sowing. I.ot William I: follow
this; it is early, productive, and of excellent

508

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 13 , 1884 .

flavour. Advancer, when represented by a fine
stock, is one of our beat selections ; it is good in
quality and very productive. Add to this John
Bull, with its large, well-filled pods and fine
table quality, and our select list of first and
second early Peas is complete.

Main crop varieties.— These, as a rule, form
the staple sorts grown in the kitchen garden, and
here there is abundant room for selection. In
this class we would include Prince of Wales, a
white, wrinkled variety, of excellent quality; Dr.
Maclean, a free-bearing, wrinkled variety; Cham¬
pion of England, a truly grand old Pea that will be
grown by market gardeners for years to come,
because so productive and of such fine quality ;
and Telegraph, or Telephone, according to
taste ; both are very productive, but apt to be
uffy in the pod ; the table quality of both is,
owever, excellent. Then for the late crop I
would select Ne Plus Ultra, which, though tall
in growth, is, taken altogether, the best all¬
round Pea in cultivation; Veitch’s Perfection,
represented by a good stock of it; Omega, a
dwarf Ne Plus Ultra, and a valuable late
variety; and, lastly, Walker’s Perpetual Bearer,
a very late selection from Veitch’s Perfection, a
variety that appears to be but little affected by
mildew, and which will stand until quite late in
the season. It is now the rule for prizes to bo
offered for

Pods of Peas at flower shows, and judges
are often confronted by great difficulties in
making awards to such exhibits. Some trust to
appearance, and give the prizes to large, hand¬
some, clean, symmetrical, well-filled pods that
have been carefully cultivated. Others go
solely for flavour, and it is not uncommon for a
dish of rough-looking pods to be put before one
more perfect in appearance. Some pass by pods
that are pointed at the tip like those of John
Bull, and award prizes to blunt-topped pods
like Dr. Maclean or Ne Plus Ultra. The fol¬
lowing are all good exhibition varieties, viz.,
William I., Best of All, Telegraph, Telephone,
Pride of the Market, Stratagem, Culverwell’s
(riant Marrow, Dr. Maclean, Ne Plus Ultra, and
Walker’s Perpetual Bearer, the two last-named
for late exhibitions.

Notes on culture. —There is but little that
is new to be said in this respect; seeing that not
a few fine new varieties have been introduced,
they should be cultivated as generously as pos¬
sible. It is a common mistake to sow Peas too
thickly, and especially those that branch freely.
Not long since we Baw a plant of Walker’s Per-
Bearer Pea that had three main stems,
had branched out into nearly a dozen
lateral branches, and the individual specimen
had on it nearly 200 pods. Such a Pea as this
should be sown a foot apart in rich ground ;
but it is but few who would sow so thinly.
The result of thin sowing is luxuriant plants
and a heavy crop. The lines of Peas, too, are
often put too closely together, especially in
the case of tall-growing varieties. It would
be better to keep them widely apart and have
another crop between the rows. The soil in
which Peas are sown should likewise be deeply
dug, if not trenched. It should be well manured,
and if it is at all stiff, some leaf-soil or any¬
thing that would tend to keep it open should
be added. Peas root deeply—much more
deeply than is generally imagined, and the
manure may be a foot or 15 inches deep, but
the roots will go down to it. The drills should
be drawn 1£ inches to 2 inches deep, but if the
weather be dry at the time of sowing, and likely
to continue, it would be best to sow in
trenches, so that water could be given and
some mulching applied if necessary. As to
the best time for sowing, much depends on the
position of the ground and the nature of the
soil. In warm positions and on early soil,
American Wonder and William I. may be sown
as early as November and onwards, and the
second earlies in February. To have a very late
crop it is the practice of some growers to sow
Ne Plus Ultra thinly in good soil fairly early in
the season, and as soon as the first sowing gets
into flower a few more Peas are put in on either
side of the rows between the stakes, and these
grow and come in later, furnishing a very use¬
ful succession crop to the first one ; or some of
the very early varieties may be sown at the end
of June or about the middle of July. It is
scarcely necessary to state that earthings-up
are a great help to Peas; and the sooner they have
stakes placed against them the etronger will

Digitized by IjOOQlC

petual

These

the plants be, as their support is of the first im¬
portance in encouraging a vigorous growth and
ensuring good crops. R. D.

GARDEN SCRAPERS.

In all gardens in which order and cleanliness
are observed scrapers must be constantly in use.
They are rarely required in pleasure grounds,
but they are quite indispensable in the kitchen
garden, as in this department the soil is con¬
stantly clinging to the workmen’s feet, and if
not scraped off before going elsewhere, gravel
and other clean pathways are soon blemished.
Spades end forks form good scrapers, but there
is much work to be done amongst vegetable
crops in which no digging or forking is required,
and yet the feet should be cleaned before coming
on tothe walks. In some kitchen gardens scrapers
are fixed in one or more corners of the large
quarters; therefore, anyone working in the
centre of such pieces of ground has to walk to
the scraper before the feet can be cleaned, and
this journey, especially when the soil is soft and
sticky, is by no means a comfortable one. For
this reason fixed scrapers are objectionable, and
I would like to offer a substitute for them. In
the accompanying illustration we have a scraper
which has taken its place amongst the tools here
forsome years past, and it answers admirably
all purposes for which it is needed. As will be
seen, its bottom part is like any ordinary

n

ll

Portable Garden Scraper.

scraper, but one side of the iron is made with a
prong or socket into which a wooden handle is
inserted. This handle may be 4 feet or 5 feet
in length and about the same thickness as a hoe i
or rake handle. Instead of having scrapers of
this kind fixed, they are taken into the tool
shed along with other implements, and when¬
ever anything is being done on the soil likely to
make the feet muddy, one or more of these
scrapers are taken out and used as required.
We have half-a-dozen or more of them and find
them most useful and convenient. A movable
scraper without a handle is always liable to get
overlooked, and, when dirty, many workmen
would rather break a commandment than lift
it and take it where it is wanted ; when, how¬
ever, its presence is made conspicuous by the
upstanding handle, and when it can be readily
shifted by means of this appendage, there is no
difficulty in making it a companion to the rake,
hoe, or vegetable basket. J. M.

Healing broken branches.— In the
summer I accidentally broke a large branch
almost off a Daphne indica growing in the open
ground. Immediately I plastered the wound
with moist clay, and tied the broken branch to
the main stem with a piece of string just tightly
enough to keep it in place. In October I had a
similar misfortune with a Libonia in a pot, and
pursued the same treatment, which proved most
successful. In each case they healed perfectly,
not a leaf withered, and no sign of a breakage
is to be seen, nor do the branches now require
any support.— .Novice.

FRUIT.

PEACHES UNDER GLASS.

Peach and Nectarine trees are generally rapidly
unfolding their blooms, and are earlier even
than last year. Much damage was done by the
late frosts last spring, and it will be an agreeable
surprise if the crops on trees in unheated houses
escape injury this season. Unfortunately, the
mild dull weather is equally unfavourable to
early forcing. Our earliest trees commenced
blooming during the first week in January, but,
owing to the almost total absence of sunshine,
the progress made has been very slow indeed.
The set, however, appears to be perfectly satis¬
factory, and, as usual, we have abundance of
fruit to select from.

Setting tiie blooms. —There are several
methods of setting in vogue, and there are some
growers who assert that artificial fertilisation is
altogether unnecessary. Thismay be the case with
the later houees when more ventilation is given,
and, consequently, more air stirring as well as
bees busy at work ; but I always carefully fer¬
tilise, and do not consider that in so doing I waste
time. During bright sunny weather fertilisation
is easily effected, as then no difficulty is experi¬
enced in drying the pollen sufficiently to admit
of its being distributed in many cases by simply
shaking either the wires of the trellis or the prin¬
cipal branches of the trees. The small-flowered
sorts have by far the most pollen, and are
the most certain setters, but only on one day
this season could it be induced to spread very
freely. At one time we lightly touched over the
flowers with a camel’s-hair brush; now we
adopt the more expeditions method of passing
a rabbit’s tail, attached to a long light stake,
over the whole. Commencing on one of the
small-flowered sorts, a considerable quantity
of pollen Boon accumulates on the tail, and
then we distribute this over a large-flowered
variety, and so on alternately till the whole
are done, and we never miss having a good
set. When damp, dull weather prevails, it
is advisable early in the day to make the
heating-pipes hotter than usual, and to give
a chink of air about 10 a.m. ; the evaporating
troughs should also be kept empty for the time
being. About midday the change in the atmo¬
sphere will have dried the pollen, and then is
the time to distribute it. As the blooms open
slowly and irregularly, this practice must be per
sisted in till suon times as all have been set. Each
day after the setting has been done, the house
may be closed and the floor damped, the heat
being again reduced, as a too high temperature
ought to be avoided. As it is preferable to have
the whole of the fruit exposed to light and sun¬
shine as much as possible, it is advisable to
fertilise those flowers only that are placed so as
to favour this disposition of the fruit. In our case,
bloom being most abundant, we remove all the
flowers on the underside of those trees trained
to semi-circular trellises, and all those not
facing outwardly on the trees trained to the
back walls, as we have every confidence in our
ability to set those retained. This early re¬
moval tends to strengthen the reserved blooms,
and subsequently there is less fruit to remove.

Thinning the crops. —Having taken great
pains in the matter of “setting, ’ we are not
nervous about any part of the crop dropping
later on, and consequently commence to
gradually thin out the young fruit when not
much larger than Peas, eventually completing
the thinning before the stoning process is entered
on. This, coupled with proper attention in
the shape of disbudding and stopping, as well
as the giving frequent and abundant supplies
of water and liquid manure, enables us to
crop heavily without injuring the trees.
For instance, we, during last June, gathered
as many as ten dozen good fruit from a
tree of Grosse Mignonne, covering a trellis
10 feet by 7 feet, without any peroeptible
weakening effect; and this, I hold, we could
not have done had we not closely attended to
apparently trivial matters. One Peach to the
square foot of trellis is not enough nowadays,
unless the trees are exceptionally weak. Double
that number is now often got from the trees,
and yet no harm is done. At the same time it
is better to undercrop than overdo it, as in the
latter case the fruits are apt to drop when
nearly ripe, and any that drop, unless from
civer-fipenoas, I hold to be jfit for nothing but

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

J

I

3

£

1

I

1

*

Dec. 13, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

509

tarts. Nectarines especially are very poor from
over-cropped trees, and I am of opinion that
they should not greatly exceed Peaches in
number over a given tree surface.

Disbudding and stopping.— At the same
time as the dowers are being thinned disbudding
is also commenced. All advancing wood buds
placed where neither a shoot nor a few leaves to
assist in swelling the fruit are required are at
once rubbed oil’. Supposing a fruiting brftnch,
nearly the size of a slate pencil, has been
shortened to about 12 inches in length, the
growth pushing nearest the base and on the
upper aide, and also that at the end of the
branch, should be preserved and eventually laid
in for next season’s fruiting. Should a stronger
branch be laid in to nearly or quite its full
length, it is advisable to preserve three shoots
on this, the third near the centre, or grossness
may result. It is best for all to be on the upper
tide, unless there is much space below requiring
to be filled, as this much simplifies pruning and
training. Any branch shortened to a wood bud
ia generally strong enough to perfect two young
shoots, but those which, owing to the absence
of wood buds, could not be shortened, should
be encouraged to push a shoot from near
the base, the growth from the terminal bud
being stopped at the fourth or fifth joint. If
both shoots are allowed to grow both will be
still more weakly than the parent branch, and
the aim should be to have moderately strong

growth throughout the tree. There must be I
leaves on the branches beyond the fruit, other¬
wise it will not swell, or, at any rate, properly
mature, but to lay in more shoots than the tree
can well support, or more than are required, is
altogether a mistake, and will soon injuriously
affect the quality of the bearing wood. Where
grossness is anticipated, this, to a certain
extent, may be obviated by rubbing out the
extra strong shoots that are produced, and the
later and as yet dormant buds will not
break so strongly, the sap being diverted else¬
where. The snoots from the same joint as
reserved fruit, unless required to be laid in,
should be stopped at about the fourth joint, the
cluster of leaves thus preserved serving to
protect as well as to swell the fruit. Peaches
and Nectarines require to be exposed to light
and sunshine to colour properly, but if stripped
and bared prematurely, or, say, much before
the final swelling off, they are almost certain to
be impaired in quality. The spurs formed by
stopping the shoots, if not removed with the
branch at pruning time, are best cut away in
autumn. There are some who advocate either
the spur system or a combination of spurs and
young growth, but I prefer to annually lay in
the requisite number of young growths. The
end shoots of all branches that have reached
their limits should be stopped early, a growth
only being laid in from the base, this taking
the place of the parent fruiting branch when
this ia cut away after having perfected its
crop.

The above remarks may be briefly repeated as
follows : Commence early to thin out or remove
all superfluous flowers and young shoots before
they weaken the remainder ; stop those young
shoots requiring it when it can be done with
the finger and thumb ; thin out the crops before
they are far advanced ; give plenty of moisture
at the roots and maintain a moist atmosphere,
and not very high temperature, especially at
the commencement. Be particularly careful
not to overcrop any trees, more especially those
not in a very healthy state ; avoid overcrowding
the young growth, and directly the crops are
perfected cut out all the old bearing wood that
can be of no further use. W. I. M.

FIG TREES ON THE SOUTH COAST.
The Fig flourishes when the salt-laden atmo¬
sphere renders the cultivation of other fruits
precarious, for unless shelter can be provided
from the fierce wind-waving to which they are
so incessantly subjected they are but short¬
lived, while the Fig grows on and attains
the dimensions of a forest tree. In point of
age, too, I question if we have any trees in this
locality of such ancient date as the Fig ; trees
of it in this parish have stems larger than a
man's body, and a spread of branches that
covers a large area, while large, luscious fruits
may be counted in the autumn by hundreds.
It ta singular how the extraordinary fertility of

Digitized by 'glC

the Fig and its freedom from disease have been
overlooked even in places particularly favourable
to its culture; in such localities no attempt is
made to turn Fig culture to profitable account on
any systematic plan; nevertheless, the trees
seldom fail to produce fruit, although neither
pruned nor trained. In fact, the most fruitful
trees I have over seen have had their roots in the
hard-trodden soil of hack-yards ; under such con¬
ditions, the growth made is short and stubby and
well ripened, and very rarely is any damage sus¬
tained from frost. Judging from appearances,
the majority of our old Fig trees have originally
been planted against walls, but from long neglect
have grown away from them and spread out into
broad heads ; in most cases the buildings have
long ago been removed, leaving the trees standing
as landmarks, thus showing that Figs were held
in higher estimation a century or so ago than
now, for until the last few years these luscious
fruits had been most unaccountably neglected ;
thanks, however, to the increased interest taken
in fruit culture, the Fig has come in for its
share of attention. Asa forced fruit it is well
grown, but my present intention is merely to
point out what a valuable fruit the Fig is for
open-air culture, either as a wall tree or more
especially as an open bush or standard. It
grows freely in any kind of soil, even where
it is poor and stony; on the south and west
coasts, where frequent gales are the great
enemy of the gardener, the Fig luxuriates
and produces fine crops. As a market
fruit, the Fig well repays the cultivator ; and,
I believe, if anyone would plant some of
the newer early ripening kinds, so as to get
fruit earlier than they do now, it would prove
a good investment. As far as I have seen, the sorts
grown about here (Gosport) consist nearly all of
three or four of the oldest kinds, notably Brown
Turkey, White Marseilles, and the Green
Ischia, all excellent kinds ; but some like Negro
Largo, Castle Kennedy, and others that have
of late become so popular for forcing, would
probably do equally well in the open-air on the
coasts of Sussex, Hants, and other southern
counties ; at least I feel sure that anyone giving
them a trial would be well repaid. We follow
each other too much in fruit culture, as in
other branches of gardening, and while attri¬
buting our failures to climate we do not turn the
advantages which we enjoy to the best account.
If Figs produce such an abundance of fruit with
little or no attention, let us try them under
good and intelligent culture, and see what will
be the result. J. G.

12283.— Mulberry tree not growing —It was pro¬
bably not the raising of the flower-bed over the roots of
the Mulberry tree which prevented its growth (although
that was not wise treatment to a newly-planted tree), but
the fact of its having been transplanted to fresh quarters.
It would seem as though the Mulberry was one of the
worst of trees to bear removal. If the one in question is
of some size, it may be two seasons before it quite recovers
the effect of the change.—K., Southend.

12323.— Weight of Grapes from house.—A lean-
to house 28 feet by 12 feet would contain about ten vines
planted 2 feet 9 inches apart. Each rod would carry on
an averago year after year from 16 lb. to 20 lb. weight.
A good season would give 200 lb. weight, while there
would be 160 lb. weight or less some seasons. The Grapes
would be of good quality.—J. D. E.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(miscellaneous.)

12321.—Study of Botany.— Get Professor
Bentley’s “ Botany,” one of a series of manuals
of elementary science, published by S. P. C. K.,
Northumberland Avenue, Charing Cross, price
Is.; or J. D. Hooker’s “ Botany,” one of the
science primers, published by Macmillan, price
Is. The former I think the best. These are
both really elementary ; one of them, if studied
thoroughly, will be of the greatest assistance.
In the more advanced study of botany follow
East.—E.

12312.—Culture of Palms.— With hardly
an exception, Palms are raised by means of seed.
The great difficulty, with amatuers at least, is
to produce these, for though one or two varieties
are occasionally offered in English seed cata¬
logues, yet the great bulk of the Palm Beeds
used in this country are imported from the
Continent, wholesale, or direct from the native
habitats of the various Bpecies ; and tho large
growers, as a rule, obtain the seed for their own
use, and do not care to retail it. However,
supposing the seeds to have been procured in

some way, the first requisite is a nice warm,
close house—a stove in fact—with a good bottom
heat bed ; or, failing this, a well-made hotbed of
large dimensions, calculated to retain the heat
for some time. In practice, however, Palms
arc always raised and grown on by large market
and trade growers, entirely in houses, and tho
amount of heating pipes in some of these would
astonish most amateurs, as it is found much
more profitable to push the plants on vigorously
in plenty of heat than to tolerate tho cooler and
slower treatment. In a house of very moderate
width and very low, I have seen as many as six¬
teen rows of 4-inch piping, with which, of course,
any desired temperature may be maintained
at any season. The hotbed method is far too
troublesome and expensive for trade growers.
In any case, the seeds are sown in pots or pans
half filled with drainage, and light, rich soil,
such as a mixture of peat and loam, with plenty
of sand. Some hard seeds need soaking in
water at about 120 degs. for twenty-four hours
before sowing, and this hastens germination in
any case. The seeds are just covered with
about their own thickness of soil, which should
be pressed down very lightly, and the pans
placed on a warm bottom of Cocoa-nut fibre,
and, if possible, they should be covered by a
propagating frame as well. Some kinds, of
course, need more heat than others, but a
temperature of about 63 degs., with, if possible,
5 degs. more of bottom heat, will cause Palm
seeds of any variety to germinate freely. The
soil should be kept always moist, but not wot;
and the best time to sow is in spring. Such
hardy kinds as Phoenix and Chama?rops will
germinate in a lower temperature. At one
time I used to have quantities of the
Date Palm (Phoenix dactylifera) come up in
some manure heaps under a wall next the
street, where passers-by used to throw the
date-stones over, and I have seen them
germinate in an outside border in warm
summers. But to grow any kind of Palm vigo¬
rously, especially in a young state, the more
heat and moisture they receive, in Reason, the
better. When up, the young plants must have
shade from hot sunshine ; in fact, most growers
shade their houses heavily in summer, of what¬
ever age the plants may be. When the first or
seed leaf is well developed, give more air, and
when strong enough put off singly into 2^-inch
pots, using the same soil as for sowing, plunge
in bottom heat, and keep warm, close, and
shaded till rooted and growing. If possible the
temperature should be lower in winter than in
summer, and, indeed, 60 degs. is warm enough
for young plants of the hardier kinds in winter,
pushing them on rapidly with plenty of heat
and moisture early in spring, when fresh growth
commences. When these small pots are fairly
full of roots, and another leaf or two formed,
shift the plants on into 3 or 3^-inch pots,
according to strength ; using a rather more
loamy soil for this shift, with less sand, and
making it a little firmer. The collar of the
plant, or setting on of the roots, should be
barely covered with soil, just enough to keep
the top steady. The plants now occupying
more room than can be afforded them in
the propagating house, may be removed to any
place where a good temperature can be main¬
tained. The best grower of Palms with whom
I am acquainted grows his plants when well
established in 3 inch pots in low-span houses
fitted with lattice stages, beneath which the
hot-water pipes are placed, covering the stages
with slates, and putting 3 or 4 inches of stable
manure on these, in which the pots are plunged.
This keeps the pots, and consequently the roots
of the plants, always nicely moist, and the
ammonia arising from the manure has a most
beneficial effect upon the growth of the plants.
The next Bhift is into 4^-inch pots when the
previous Bize is well filled with roots. Most
Palms, well grown, produce at least one well-
characterised leaf while in a 3-inch pot, and in
this stage they are very useful for working in
table or other decorations on a small scale, as
the small pots fit in easily amongst others, and

even one well-developed frond or leaf here and
there tells well among flowering plants. But
for single specimens, such as table plants,
4^-inch and 5-inch pots are the most useful
sizes. If required to he used for this purpose,
it is better to pot most Palms in such sized pots
in some good Bound holding loam, with a very
little leaf-mould aud sand^ making the soil quite
♦ UNIVtr\jl I T* Ur ILLINUl j At

JA-CHAMPA

510

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 13 , 1884

firm. In such a compost the plants will last a long
time, and, growing slowly, attain very handsome
proportions, if plenty of heat and moisture are
ufforded in the growing season. But if it is
desired to grow the plants on rapidly to large
specimens, then use a lighter compost, with a
large proportion of peat and sand, and do not
pot so firmly. As the plants gain age and size,
however, it is absolutely necessary to give a
good holding compost, and make this quite firm
in the pots if they are to last in good condition
for any length of time. A list of some of the
most useful varieties is subjoined. The fol¬
lowing do well under comparatively cool treat¬
ment when well established : Areca Baueri and

A. sapida, Chamrerops Fortunei, excelsa, and
humilis (the latter is the dwarf Fan Palm of
Southern Europe) ; Corypha australis, En-
cephalartos, many varieties of Jubiea specta-
bilis; Kentia australis, Belmoriana, and rupi-
cola ; Lat&nia borbonica, one of the most useful
of all; Macrozamias, of sorts; Phrenix acaulis,
dactylifera (the Date Palm), and P. reclinata ;
Rhapis flabelliformis, Seaforthia elegans, very
elegant and useful, and all the Zamias. Of those
requiring stove heat the belt are : Areca aurea
and other varieties ; Cocos Weddelliana, about
the most graceful of all Palms, most desirable
in any size, dwarf growing, but requires good
cultivation and a high temperature; Cycas
Armstrongii, very beautiful; ahd C. media, C.
pluma, revoluta, and others ; Daemonorops or-
natus, palembanicus, and plumosus ; Geonoma
Carderi, gracilis, princeps, and Kentia gracilis,
and K. Wend landiana, a very fine species ;
Plectocomia Himalayana, Sabal ccerulescens ;
Thrinax barbadensis, elegans, and elegan-
tissima. In addition to these almost all those
named as suitable for cool treatment may with
advantage be included in the warm house collec¬
tion, where they will attain noble proportions,
and present a most handsome appearance.—

B. C. R.

12309.— Sowing Grass seed.— It is now
too late to sow. Some prefer the early autumn
to spring, but, all things considered, the best
time is about the middle of March, or earlier in
the south. In genial weather, with warm
showers, the seed will germinate in a week or
ten days, getting well above the soil. Write to
a firm who mike Grass seeds a speciality, de¬
scribing soil and the purpose for which you
require the seed, and they will send the most
suitable kinds.—J. P., Lancashire .

12287.— Moles in gardens.— There is
nothing better than the ordinary iron mole trap.
They may sometimes be caught while at work,
by inserting a garden fork quietly, and throwing
them sharply out of the ground, out the operator
must be quick and auiet or he will miss. A mole
in a newly-planted flower bed is certainly an
exasperating creature, but I never could see that
they did any material damage to anything except
seedbeds. “ F. G.” will have no peace so long
as his garden is open to meadow land ; a brick
wall is the only barrier that will keep them out.
—K., Southend.

- Seeing this query in Gardening, I would

advise “F. G.”to put some iron traps in the
runs that are outside his garden in the pasture
fields, where the ground will be more Bolid, but
be sure to trace the runs in the direction of the
garden, and it will soon put an end to them if
the trap is set properly, and a bit of Moss or
turf between the top of the trap, or the mole
may not face this. Be sure to get the loose soil
out of the tunnel before inserting the trap.
Likewise your garden wants a change of manure,
or, better, none ; but apply a good dressing of old
mortar rubbish or lime, but not soot by any
means. Gas-lime is a very good thing applied
as a winter dressing to land, subject to earth¬
worms or wireworms. I once had three acres of
Peas so wn for early picking, which were quite
destroyed by wire worm. A dressing of gas-
lime was applied, and Mangel Wurtzel was
drilled on the Bame ground, and I got a yield of
roots at the rate of 80 tons per acre of the piece
sown.—C. Mkacock.

12317.—Border and Tree Carnations.—
Any variety of Carnation might be designated
a border Carnation if it grows and flowers well
out-of-doors. Selfs and Fancies are sold by the
trade as border varieties. Tree Carnations are
perpetual
ing growt
flower in
uiqi

ins;

;hs from the st^m, and from, these they
the winter/ They wcrj»t first called

Tree Carnations owing to their growing so tall;
sometimes as high as 9 feet. Now, we have a
dwarf habited type which is not tree at all.
The better name for the whole family would be
“perpetual flowering.” The application of
“tree” to a dwarf plant like A. Alegataire
would be a misnomer.—J. D. E.

12327. —Chrysanthemums. —The Japa¬
nese variety is, as a rule, large flowered, with
long narrow petals, reminding one somewhat of
the top-knot of a Houdan cock, the loose
arrangement of feathers and petals being bo
similar. This is the strong distinguishing
feature of the Japanese flower. “ W. P.” will
find a good drawing of Elaine (a Japanese) in
volumne III., page 443, Nov. 12, 1881, of
Gardening Illustrated. Pompone is taken
from the French “ pompon,” a trinket or orna¬
ment, in allusion to its being small, and a gem
amongst the class of flowers to which they
belong. —J. P., Lancashire.

- The propounder of this question wishes

someone to describe a Japanese Chrysanthemum.
All the other sections seem to be known, and the
Japanese would, in that case, easily be dis¬
tinguished. They have slender, ribbon-like
florets, which are twisted, reflexed, and incurved
in a very peculiar manner. They are attractive
because of the great variety of form and colour
amongst them. There are almost as many
different forms as there are varieties. The
meaning of the word “ pompone,” as applied to
flowers, refers to their small size.—J. 1). E.

12311.—Building a hothouse.— As the
inclination of roof is 43 degs., with height of
8 feet at apex, and 3 feet at front wall, I gather
that the house will be about 5 feet wide and
somewhere about 22 feet long. I would suggest
making the slope of roof less steep, so as to
allow of putting front lights to the house, both
for appearance sake, and on account of the extra
head room that will be gained inside. A larger
boiler would be better, but the existing one
may, perhaps, answer well enough. I would
get more piping, so as to carry a flow and
return the whole length of house along the front
wall, and of course take care that it is carefully
laid with a gradual rise from the boiler.—K.,
Southend .

1 2322. — Chrysanthemums after flow¬
ering’.— Cut the Chyrsanthemums down, and
stand them in a cool place. They will soon send
up plenty of shoots from the base of the plant.
Tnese should be inserted singly in 3-inch pots
in a mixture of turfy loam and leafy mould.
As soon as they have made plenty of roots they
should be shifted into larger pots. After
potting, put them in a cold frame close to the
glass, ana keep them secure from frost. When
they have commenced to grow give them more
air, and pinch the tops off to make them branch
out, but they must never be Btopped after June.
In May give them their final shift, and stand
them outside on a bed of ashes. Do not let
them want for water. Manure water may be
given about twice a week. Take them inside
where they are to flower in October, and give
them plenty of light and air.—C. E. Burns,
Birmingham.

-Transfer your plants after flowering into a cold

frame, when you may propagate their cuttings as soon os
large enough, which should be obtained from the base,
and then dispose of the old plants by throwing away.—
J. S. Smith, Derby.

- Place them in a cold frame, or near the glass in a

house from which frost is excluded. The best time to
propagate plants from cuttings is now, and as Boon os they
are rooted. Tho old plants may be thrown away or
planted out in the open garden.—J. D. E.

-“ Oakleigh ” asks what is best to be done with these

I had several planted out in the garden last autumn. They
have flowered most beautifully this autumn. The gardener

E repared me for the po«ail>ility of asevere frost killing them.

ibt winter being mild they escaped. I intend to repeat
the ixperiment this winter.—A Constant Reader.

12325.— Fuchsias at rest.— It is the fine,
mild, early winter that has caused them to start.
It is by no means uncommon for Fuchsias to do
this, and places the grower in rather an awk¬
ward position. All that can be done is to keep
the soil just moist enough to keep the roots
from perishing, and the wood from shrivelling
during the winter months. The growth will
presumably bo on the extremities of the young
wood, so that at pruning time, by cutting back
to two eyes from the base, this will be cut
away, and will, therefore, place the plants in
the same position they would occupy if they
had never rushed into growth.—J. C. B.

-They Bhould have been kept quite dry at the roots,

which w< u'd have prevented their Siting into growth.
Now that they are growing it will be better to give
sufficient water to prevent their flagging. If they are
watered very sparingly the young growths will gradually
develop themselves, and probably arrive at the resting
period again in six weeks. It is not desirable to keep them
growing in winter.—J. D. E.

- Your Fuchsias ought to have been kept in cellar

or some dry cool place, where frost is excluded and
water altogether withheld, until towards spring, when
you may start them in little heat and repot Without
you adopt this mode your success will prove unsatis¬
factory.—J. S. Smith, Derby.

12301.—Vacant room for gardening.—Rhubarb
might perhaps be forced in the room described ; but
Stiaeberries could not be grown in a room, still less
Tomatoes or Vines, as there would not be a sufficiency of
•un or light.—K.

12318.—Cutting down Irish Yews.—In answer to
“ Enquirer,” as regards cutting Irish Yews, it would not
do to cut them if they are intended to get taller, as it would
entirely spoil their growth by taking away their leaders,
but eventually would make them more bushy and sturdy.
—J. S. Smith, Derby.

12320.— Traveller's Joy.— The botanical name of this
lant is Clematis Vitalba. It has pinnate leaves and oor-
ate, incised leaflets, with w'oody, angular, and climbing
stems ; the flowers are small white and scented. It is a
common wild shrub in England, though very rarely seen
wild in Scotland. The best way to propig&te it would be
by la} ering. It might also be raised from seeds.—J. D. E.

— Clematis Vitalba is Traveller’s Joy, Virgins’ Bower,
and Old Man’s Beard. It is a native of west English
counties, and is only too easily propagated by slips from
the roots. Clematis Flammula is to be preferred as it
flowers three months later.—A. B. T. t East Anglii.

12314.— Schedules of flower shows.— As many
kind friends responded to my appeal for rules and schedules
of a country horticultural society, and, not knowing in each
case who to thank by letter, please allow me to do so
through the oolumns of Gardbnino Illustrated.— J. H.
Morgan, St. Armn’s Lodge, Chepstow, Mon.

12272.—Crocuses and mice.— Mice will not touch
Crocuses if the bulbs are put in warm water before plant¬
ing and then dusted over with red-lead powder.—A. B. T.,
East Anglia.

W. R. JR.—The address is 44, Percival Street, Clerkenwell,
London, E.C.— Journeyman Gardener.— We believe such
is the rule in Borne gardens, but not in many nowadays.

- Ivanhoe. —No.- R. P.— The Chrysanthemum is no

improvement on existing kinds.- T. M.— You will pro¬

bably get the Bhrubs you ask for at Messrs. Veitch and

Sons’ Royal Exotic Nursery, Chelsea.- M. Lee.—Tty

Messrs. Veitch and Sons’ Royal Exotic Nursery, Cholsea,

London.- Robert Hart — Both the Geraniums, or rather

Pelargoniums, you mention are of a sportive character,
and there is nothing unusual in the form yours have taken.

Names Of plants.— if. B.— Sodum Sieboldi.-

R. B —Please send better spocimtn.- G. W r .— 1, Passl-

flora Van Volxemi; 2, Libonia floribunda ; 3, Send better

spocimen.- Q. W.— S, Cheil&nthes argentea.— D. S. G.

—2, Cyrtomium anomophyllutn ; S. C. falcatum ; 4, C.

Fortunei (caryotoides).- C. S.— Fern is PellsBa hastata

Seed is Abrua precatorius (Crab’s Eyes).

Names Of fruits.— Mrs. Truell.— B. Capianmont.-

S. C.—l, Beurr6 d’Aremberg; 2, Glou Morceau.- J. It.

—Your Pear was quite rotten.- T .—Some cider Apple

unknown to us.- W. M. T.— Pears: 1, Not known ; 3,

Chaumontel. Apples: 1, Grange’s Pearmain ; 2, Feam’s

Pippin.- J. F. —2, Cellini; 4, Rymer.-IP. Pattrick. —

Your Apple is Hanwell Souring, not Newton Pippin.-

T. Myers .—Your Apples were named in issue of Nov. 22.
-Others next week.

QUERIES.

Rules fbr Correspondents.—AH communications

for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not answered
should be sent to us again.

Naming plants or fruit .—Four plants, fruits, or
flowers only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens are sent We do not undertake to
mi ms varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias .
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
name should always accompany the parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
specimens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12331. — Oil lamp stoves —We are looking for a
good oil stove for conservatories, <fcc. We have tried
many American stoves, but can And none to do what is
claimed tor them. They smoke the house and give out an
offensive gas, which smells badly. We see two different
oil stoves advertised in the Garden —one Rippingille’s
Patent, made by the IIolborn Lamp Company, ana the
other made by the Albion Lamp Company. Birmingham.
Can any of your readers tell us anything about tho Btoves ?
Will they do for conservatories, and do they work satis¬
factorilyr—J. V., hew York.

12352.—Holy Thorn.—I have had a plant given to mo
called the Holy Thorn, and should be glad of any informa¬
tion respecting the c ilturo of it. Its appearance is some¬
thing like a Cactus, with long prickly thorns, s"'«ll green
leaves *p»ir.tfta? from the stem, and I am told it bean a

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Disc. 13, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

511

small scarlet blossom. Should be glsd to know its
botanical nature, also if it will succeed in a moderately-
heated greenhouse ?— A Constant Reader.

12353.—Gooseberry trees.—Will some reader state
their opinion as to what is the cause of Gooseberry trees,
&c., growing long-jointed wood?-G. T. L.

12354.— Fruit trees.— I have a garden with a river
running the south-west side, it has a good hi^h wall on the
opposite aide with fruit trees, the blossoms of which are
generally cut off by frost. In the same garden are
pyramid Apple and Pear trees, these get very mossy, and
though the soil is deep and good, they do not bear fruit as
they should do. Will any reader be eood enough to Inform
me if a hedge were planted, s*y of Yew, Box, or Holly, or
anything else, on the south-west side of this garden, would
it be likely to shelter and make the garden more profitable ?
Any hints would be acceptable.—H. P.

12355.—Culture of Echeverlas. — I shall be glad of
directions for cultivating the Echeveria. They were in the
open air all last winter and flowered well this summer, but
1 am told they are only half-hardy. They have a quantity
of young plants attached to them. Should these be taken
off or left till the spring? I shall be obliged for informa¬
tion on the same points respecting Sempervivum Brauni,
arachnoidei, globiforum.— Mrs. R.

12356.— Danilas in open ground.— is it probable
that Dahlia tuber* will do well if left in the ground during
winter? They are in a bed facing due south, well sheltered
from north and east by rather high walls, but getting the
morning aun ?-Mrb. R.

12357.—Chrysanthemums after flowering —
My hardy Chry santhemums have finished blooming Had
I better cut them down or leave them to die down ? I
have put 2 or 3 inches of coal ashes closely round the
stems.—M rs. R.

12353.— Pruning Myrtles —I have a Myrtle 4 feet
high in a 12-inch pot. The branches are numerous but are
stunted. Should it be pruned —if so, when ? What Is the
best way of treating it ?—W. B.

12350. — Lupines in pots —Will someone be good
cnoogh to inform mo whether I can grow Lupines in pots
— if so, what size of pot, treatment, and when to plant to
bloom by the end of July ?—Mispilus.

123.0.— Transplanting Gorse. — Will Gome bear
transplanting—if so, please give instructions as to what
time of year and how to do ?— Glaxtsiky.

12361.— Manure water for trees.— I have a cess¬
pool which must be emptied. What are the plants and
trees which would be benefited by some of the liquid
manure at this time cf the yeaj ? I* the surface water of
the cesspool, which is but slightly impregnated with
eewage, of any value ?—Ioxorami’s

12332. — Cool Orchids — Is it absolutely essential that
Sphagnum should be used with Orchid* ? Will not common
or green Moss like that which grows on stools and roots of
trees do ?—B.

123 3 — Japanese Chrysanthemums.-will you

S ive me in your next issue, under “ Answers to Correspon-
ents,” the names of twelve Japanese Chrysanthemums
best suited for greenhouse decoration ? Of course a variety
in colour would be required — W. Norbury.

12364 —Ivy on walls — I have tried for eighteen
months to grow wild Ivy over a brick edging. The Ivy
roots easily, but will not attach itself to the brick. Abroad
I have often eecn evergmn edgings of this kind neatly
clipped and very crnarnental. Can anyone tell me why I
fail? The same Ivy will find its way to the back r<f the
bed and run up the high touth wall with alacrity.—E. B.

12365 —Begonias and Hydrangeas.— How am I
to keep two Begonias j*'8t done flowering, also two
Hydrangeas now in bloom ? They do not seem to grow
much. What shall I do with them to keep them through the
winter ?—Begonia.

12366.—Plants for greenhouse. -I have a glass-
roofed house just erected ; it is enclosed by three walls of
living rooms of houses iu which fins are always burning,
consequently it has plenty of heat; it has also plenty of
light, but not a ray of aun ever touches on it, as the aspect
is northerly. The walls are plastered, and roof and front
are all glass. Will someone please let me know what plants
I could grow with any success, also if any small shrubs,
such as Camellias, would grow therein ?—Amatkir.

12367.—Devonlensis Rose.—I would like much to
have a few directions for the pruning of a Devonlensis
Rose which is in a cool greenhouse. It is planted in the
'.'round and has not been properly pruned. It has now long
shoots of last and former years’ growth. From some of
these there are weakly dried up side branches, and also
f o u near the end of labt year’s growth strong vigorous
sho its, still growing, and already 4 feet or so long. When
and how should it be pruned to get blooms next spring ?—

12363.—Plants for Easter.—I want to grow a few
plants in pots to sell at a bataar next Easter (April Cth).
Will someone kindly give names, Ac , of suitable bulbs,
roots, or seeds that could be got to flower at that time ? I
have a cool greenhouse but no hotbed, or means of apply¬
ing artificial heat.—iNciriKNS.

12369.—Tar for woodwork.—I have built a wooden
shed in my garden and intend to dress it with gat-tar, but
have been told that it should have some kind of oil or
grease boiled in it to keep the wet out of the wood. I
should like to know whether this is so, or whether there is
any other preparation that is inexpensive which would
answer the purpose.—B. Y. A.

12370.— Fruits of Passion-flowers.- Are the seed
pods of the Passion-flower of any use or value ? Is it usual
for a plant only four years old to have as many oh tvo
hundred pods, all about the size of hens' eggs, and of a
beautiful golden yellow ?— Doctor.

12371.—Asparagfus bed.-Shall be glad of informa¬
tion as to the best method of forming an Asparagus bed._

T.

1 ?372.— Arresting? decay in old standard fruit
trees.—I shall be glad to bo informed whether it would
bs beneficial to well stop with clay holeB in the trunks of
old fruit trees to keep out wet, or the best method of pre¬
servation.—T.

12373.—Mushroom spa
dent inform me how to procuj

while growing, and the kind of manure compost suitable for
the germination of the spores ?— Jaw.

12874.—Gas stov©.—I have a small greenhouse heated
by about 30 feet of 4-inch pipes, warmed by a tubular iron
boiler from outside. This doe* not answer owing to my
not ha\ ing time to att- nd to stoking. Ac. Can anj amatt ur
recommend an inexpensive gas stove that will heat this
pipe without burning too much gas, and suited f»r present
pipes ?— Kent.

12375.— Preserving' Walnuts.— Will someone tell
mo the best method of preserving Walnuts so as to keep
them mout and to peel eatily ?—E. S. Milton.

12376.—Cockscombs and Balsams.-I should be
glad if some reader would kindly tell me when to sow
Cockscombs and Balsams, and a few hints how to grow
them for a show w hich takes place about the end of May.
—W. Taylor.

12377.— Crocuses in autumn.— I would be much
obliged for the name of a Crocus which wa9 in bloom about
a month ago in a friend’s garden. I have looked in vain
in lists of bulbs. It is a yellow with dark green leaves,
not apparently striped with white in the way most others
are There Is no mention of a yellow one at all as bloom¬
ing in the autumn in any list I have seen. Can it be any
other kind of plant though so exactly resembling a Crocus ?
— Mrs. A. A.

BEES.

NATURAL HISTORY NOTES.

Honey .—In certain classes of flowers is found
a specific juice—nectar—consisting in great
measure of cane sugar, from which the bee
elaborates honey and wax. Flowers do not con¬
tain honey, pure and simple, which has merely
to be gathered and stored in the cells; the
nectar, after being gathered, undergoes the
change into honey m the body of the bee. On
alighting upon a flower the bee darts out its
tongue (which is long and of great flexibility,
and susceptible of inflation) and probes the
floral cells to the bottom and drains them of
their nectar, when the tongue is withdrawn into
the mouth and the juice projected back into the
throat, and thence into the first stomach or
honey-bag, and, upon the bee returning to the
hive, is regurgitated and deposited in the honey
cells. When first stored in the cells it is thin
and watery, but is left unsealed in the combs
till the watery parts have been evaporated and
it has become thicker and sweeter. Crude, un¬
ripened honey will not keep, soon becomes acid,
the consumption of which by the bees is very in¬
jurious to them ; on this account every careful
bee-keeper removes from the hive at the close
of the season all unsealed stores. It would
appear that in each of its excursions a bee con¬
fines its foraging operations to one species of
flower, and this would, of course, account for
the destructive character of various honeys.
And, again, if the bee wandered indifferently
from flower to flower without selection, the
fertilisation of flowers would be imperfect, and
hybridization and confusion of species the con¬
sequence. There is great variety both in colour
and flavour of honey, according to the particular
flower irom which it is gathered—thus, honey
from Lime blossoms is of a greenish shade ; that
from Sainfoin yellow; from Clover almost
colourless : from Beans brown, and from Heath
very dark, sometimes almost black. The honey
derived from Clover is very delicate in flavour,
that from fruit blossoms has a very distinctive
character, while that from Heather is of stroDg
flavour.

/Fax.—The manufacture of wax necessitates
large quantities of honey being consumed by
the bees, and a high temperature within the
hive. In the construction of comb, therefore,
the wax-makers having filled themselves with
honey, form a cluster, and hang from the top of
the hive, suspending themselves one to another
by attaching the claws of the forelegs of the
lowermost to the hindlegs of those next above.
They remain in this position some hours, during
which wax is secreted, or, rather, the substance
to be ultimately converted into wax, and thin
flakes exude from the membrane of the wax
pockets; upon which a bee leaves the cluster,
and passes to the top of the hive, and there
clears a space of about an inch in diameter,
where it lays the foundation of the comb, by
hcapiDg together all the lamina it has secreted,
after haviDg converted it into true wax by a
kneading process performed by its tongue.
Other bees follow, who add to tho little lump
of wax till a rough piece is formed about half
an inch long, in which there is no indication of
tho form of cells. Another set of bees (the
artisans of the hive) now take in hand this wall
of wax, and form in it the bases of the cells.
As the cells are drawn out the wax-makers

increase the magnitude of the rough partition
wall, and to the work goes on.

Pollen , the fertilising dust of flowers, is gathered
by bees in large quantities, more especially in
the spring. It is used with honey and water for
feeding the larvae, and that not required for
present use is stored in worker cells and sealed
over with wax. The bee foraging in the flowers
becomes powtlered with pollen, which it brushes
from its body with its front legs (which arc pro¬
vided with brushes for this purpose), and
collects and kneads it up into two little pellets,
which are transferred to the hollows in the hind
legs provided for its reception and transporta¬
tion. The colour of pollen varies according to
the kind of flower from which it is gathered.
In the early spring the Crocus and the various
kinds of Willow yield large quantities of pollen.
Propolis is a resin-like substance used by bees,
more especially towards the end of summer, to
fill up cracks and crevices and make all snug for
the winter. It is obtained from theHorse Chest¬
nut, and different kinds of Pine. When set, it
is much harder in substance than wax.

Honey dew .—This is a sweet, sticky substance,
found in dry seasons on the upper surface of
the leaves of the Lime, Sycamore, Oak, Birch,
&c., and is the product of the various species of
aphis. When it is softened by rain or dew,
bees will, unfortunately, in times of scarcity of
honey, gather and store it in the hive in
quantity. The lx e-keeper of the old school nsed
to look upon honeydews as great blessings.
This, however, was before the days of white
comb section honey. Honeydew is so dark in
the comb, and of such unpleasant flavour, and,
as a small quantity stored with pure honey
makes the whole unsaleable, the modern bee¬
keeper looks upon it in a different light.

Boxicorth. S. S. G.

POULTRY.

FEEDING OF POULTRY.

The reason why poultry fed on a mixture of
soft and hard food makes larger birds than those
fed entirely on hard grain is this : When the
birds come down from the roost their crop is
empty, and they are hungry. If fed then with
hard grain it would take some time before
the birds could digest it so as to get any good
from it; but if fed with a judicious mixture of
Boft food, when they come down in the morning,
it is quickly digested, and the birds are
strengthened thereby. The advantage of a feed
of meal given warm the first thing in tho
morning is first observed during the winter
season. Birds so fed will lay at least double the
number of eggs and continue in better health
than those fed entirely on grain.

Feedifg on soft food must rot be continued
too far, however, or the consequences may
be otherwise. Fed entirely on soft food,
the digestive organs would be destroyed, or at
least impaired. When food is swallowed, the
first receptacle is the crop; further on
there is another bag, which empties itself
into the gizzard or stomach. The gizzard
is lined with strong contracting muscles,
which grind up the food, stones, &c., swallowed
by the birds, and the strength of this grinding
machine, which secretes yellow colouring
matter, is such that the hardest diamond
would be ground to powder in a very short
time. It will be seen, then, that fowls fed en¬
tirely on soft food will give very little work to
this grinding machine, which would, like every¬
thing else when not in use, get out of order, with
the worst possible results to the fowl itself.
There is no denying that fowls might be kept a
considerable time fed entirely on soft food with¬
out any apparent ill effect; but tho risk run is
such that I would not advise anyone to try it.
The best way of feeding is to give soft food warm
the first thing in the morning, kitchen scraps at
midday, and good, sound grain at night before
going to roost. The grain, taking long to digest,
is the best food to give for the last meal, as it
stays by the fowls during the long winter nights.
Steeping grain I do not approve of, unless it bo
barley which has been allowed to sprout; it Ls
then a very stimulating food, given sparingly at
intervals. Turnips, carrots, maDgel wurtzel,
&o., boiled and mixed with the soft food conduces
to good health, and Is a necessity if the birds do
not have a grass run, or are not provided .with
green food in seme shape.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

512

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 13, 1884.

Coarse sand or small gravel is also neces¬
sary, as it helps digestion. Wild pigeons are
known to travel many miles regularly for nothing
else but to get a supply of this gravel. After
a spate any quantity may bo gathered from the
road-aide at the foot of an incline, where the
water has carried it down. Gravel or sand
should not bo mixed with the food, but placed
so that the fowls can get at it whenever they
like. I am speaking now of birds that
are confined. But where they have free range
the owner need not trouble himself on this score,
as the birds will pick up all they require, and
the less artificial feeding the better. Bones,
crushed small, are excellent for growing fowls,
and animal food should be supplied in some
form or other. Birds at liberty pick up an
enormous amount of insects, grubs, snails,
worms, &c., which they cannot get in a con¬
fined run. We must, therefore, give them some
equivalent.

Meat boiled or raw* and cut small is very
much relished by poultry. Liver or sheep’s
pluck, where it can be obtained, if boiled and
given in moderate quantity, will have a marked
etfect on the health and laying of the stock.
Tallow chandler’s refuse in the shape of greaves I
merely mention to condemn. They arc neither
good for the health of the birds nor for laying,
and give a bad taste to the flesh. Spiced
meals are only for special occasions—during
cold, wet, -weather, or in winter. Spratt’s
patent meal—which I consider the best of this
class of meal—given say twice or thrice a week,
mixed half-and-half with thirds, and given warm,
will have an astonishing effect on the egg basket
during the cold months of the year. As a per
manent food I do Dot like it, it is too hcatiDg
and stimulating; but a limited use of it has the
best results. Dog biscuits, steeped and mixed
with meal, are also good for a change, as they
contain a good percentage of animal food. The
seed of the sunflower is also good for a change,
and for those who exhibit poultry is a valuable
article, as it gives a nice gloss to the plumage,
but it is too fattening for regular use.

Sunflower peed. —The sunflower is not diffi¬
cult to grow, and Bhould anyone desire to cul¬
tivate it I give the manner of its cultivation by
one who has tried it. About 1$ bushels of the
white, streaky variety is required for sowing
one acre. The soil should be good, not too strong
nor too cold, well worked, and well manured.
It will grow very well in a soil suitable for pota¬
toes. The crop will be greatly improved by the
addition of somo kind of potash, kainit, &c., at
the rate of about 3 cwt. per acre, drilled
in at the time of sowing, about April or
May. The seed is dibbled in in rows 30 inches
apart, the holes being 18 inches apart. Four
Beeds are put in oach hole, and the superfluous
plants are noed out as soon as possible, to pre¬
vent their spoiling each other. The average
yield is 40 bushels per acre. It is also an ex¬
cellent food for cattle, which eat it—leaves,
stems, and all. The bark is used for paper
making, and the stem, when dried, for fuel.
The ashes contain 10 per cent, of potash. Sun¬
flower seed is much more profitable than Buck¬
wheat ; but as the former requires bo much sun,
it is difficult to make it ripen in England.

How to feed. —Having named the principal
food given to poultry, it only remains to be
said that it is not altogether the kind of food—
though a judicious selection of that is also
necessary—but the manner, quantity, &c., in
which it is given that brings about good re¬
sults. Feeding troughs are recommended by
some and condemned by others. I neither con¬
demn nor approve of them. Circumstances alter
cases. Poultry on the farm, with perfect liberty,
require no feeding-troughs. The food should
be scattered far and wide on the dry ground,
so that all the fowls may get an equal
share. If the ground is wet, then the birds
should be fed in some shed or outhouse, and the
food thrown on the floor. I am no advocate of
throwing down soft food so that the earth sticks
to it, thereby helping the fowls in digestion. If
the meal is properly prepared, so that it is in
a dry, crumbly state, and parts freely on being
thrown to the ground, no dirt will adhere to it.
If it does, then the meal is too soft and not
properly prepared ; it clings to the fowls’ beaks,
and they positively dislike it, All food for
poultry should be given rather dry. Fowls
enclosed in a small unprotected from the
wet, will be best dish.

The best form is one about 6 inches wide and
18 long. If this is too small for the number
of fowls rather get two than one large one.
The best material is metal or stone, as it is
heavy ; and although the birds stand on the
edge of the trough it will not overturn.
Wood also does very well, but the trough is
easily overturned, unless it be made like
the old fashioned pig iron trough. If a wood
dish is employed, it is advisable to nail narrow
strips of wood across at stated intervals to pre¬
vent the fowls going amongst and trampling
the food.

Directly the birds have finished, or show that
they are not eating greedily, remove the dish
and wash it clean, laying it up in the sun to
dry. The dish must on no account be allowed
to remain ; some lazy people do this in order
that the fowls may have the food beside them
if they want it, and in case they should forget
to feed them. This is the sort of folk who
grumble at their hens not laying. Grain is beBt
scattered among the loose earth, so as to give
employment to the fowls in scratching and
searching for it. Exercise promotes health and
keeps the birds from falling into bad habits,
such as feather eating. On no account should
any food be left lying on the ground ; it is a
positive waste. P.

HOUSEHOLD.

BACON AS IT IS CURED IN
YORKSHIRE.

Season. —The best time for curing bacon is
between October and March, as, if the pig is
killed before October or after March, the weather
being at all warm, the pork goes bad and will
not cure.

Cutting up.— The butcher generally asks
how you wish the pig to be cut up ; but the first
thing to l)e done is to cut off the head, the under
part of which (called the chap) is salted with
the flitches and hams, and the upper part made
into potted meat. The leaf of fat is then taken
out and put away in a cool place. There are
two ways of cutting up the carcase of a pig, and
the butcher asks which is preferred. The first
is to cut it straight down the middle of the back¬
bone, the halves of which are cut away with the
sparerib. The second is to cut at each side of
the backbone, leaving it a long strip by itself,
which is then cut into short pieces for roasts.
The sparerib is in this case cut off by itself. Tfie
heart and lights are used for mince pies, the
liver for fry, and odd pieces of lean meat for the
pork pies. The hams are cut off the sides, and
in a largo pig the shoulders are cut off and
formed into nice little hams.

Curing the bacon. —For this purpose a stone
table in a well-ventilated and dry cellar is
thoroughly cleaned and dried, and then covered
with ground salt to the thickness of a quarter of
an inch. The flitches, hams, and chap are
placed on this, skin side downwards, and then
covered with salt to thickness of half an inch,
care being taken to rub the salt well into the
shoulder joints, &c. Over the salt is sprinkled
$ lb. of pulverised saltpetre. The hams, <fcc ,
are looked at every two days, and in placos
where the salt has melted, more is put on, and
so on for three weeks. At the end of that time
the salt is either washed or dusted off, and the
bacon, hams, &c., are hung on hooks in the
kitchen away from the fire, so that they do not
become rancid. They are left in the kitchen
all through the winter, but when spring comes,
they are sewn into calico bags and placed on a
rack in the bacon chamber. The bacon, hams,
and chap are removed to the bacon chamber as
the hot weather advances to prevent them from
becoming rancid with the heat. They are sewn
into calico to prevent that great pest and
destroyer of all meats, both fresh and salted—
the bluebottle fly—from blowing on it. I have
seen some excellent, well-cured hams rendered
quite useless through the bluebottle.

To COOK TIIK DIFFERENT FARTS. —The leaf is
cut up into small pieces, placed in a stewpan in
a slow oven, or in a saucepan over a very slow fire,
to render. When the pan is on the fire the
pieces are frequently stirred, and great care
taken that they do not burn. When the fat is
all rendered, it is poured through a strainer
into jars.. The scraps which are left are
pressed with a wooden spoon, and any remain¬
ing fat is poured through the strainer. The

scraps are then poured on to a dish. The jars
with the fat are set in a cool place, and when
the lard is hard sre covered with paper. The
following is an excellent way of utilising the
scraps.

Scrap Cake —1 lb. scraps, 1} lb. flour, ^R>.
moist sugar, $ lb. currants, i oz. candied lemon
peel, 1 teaspoonful baking powder, milk, ground
cloves, ana cinnamon to taste. Mince the
scraps very finely, and cut the lemon peel very
small. Put the flour and baking-powder into
a basin, mix, put in the scraps and rub them
well into the flour, add the currants, peel,
spices and sugar. When these ingredients are
well mixed, pour in sufficient milk to make it
into a light paste. Roll out thinly, and cut
into cakes with the top of a tumbler. Bake on
a cake tin in a brisk oven. The lean cuttiDgs
from the hams and flitches are made into pork
pies. Recipe for same will be given in our next.

AQUARIA.

Gold fish —I have some gold fish in a tank 12 feet
long, 6 feet brood, and 5 feet deep. Will anyone toll me if
it is necessary or Advisable to break the ice if hard frost sets
in, or if the fish will get on equally well without it?—
(,M F.ROR.

Plants for ftquarium —I have an aquarium contain
ing nine fish and am anxious to purchase a few plants of
the Valisneria spiralis, some of mine having died away.
Can anyone advise me where I could procure some from,
also a specimen or two of the water spider?—G B.

A SPECIALITY.

rhododTndrons

AND

OTHER AMERICAN PLANTS,

CROWN IN SANDY LOAM.

A sunerb collection of all the leading varieties Id cultiva¬
tion, also many thousands of RHODODENDRON PON-
TICIXM and HYBRIDS, for Plantations and Coverts.

A sample basket, containing 12 Choice and Distinct
Varicties to name for 30»

These plants being thus prepared may be grown in any
ordinary fibrous loam without the expensive addition of peat
soil or other composts.

PRICED LIST on ap)>lication to

JOHN CRANSTON.

KING’S ACRE, HEREFORD.

rjHRISTMAS ROSES (Helleborus niger),

2b. fid. dozen, fine strong clumps. Lily of the Valley,
Berlin Crowns, 25 for Is. 3d., or 4s. fid. per J00: Crocus bulbs.
Is. per 100. All the above post-free.—W. CULUNGFORD,
Forest Gate, E.

ORDER AT ONCE.

GARDEfANNUAL

Almanac and Address Book

For 1886.

Price One Shilling; Post free , One Shilling
and Threepence.

This is a most complete and accurate Yearly Reference
Book for the use of all interested in Gardens yet published.
The Alphabetical Llstsof all Branches of the Horticultural
Trade have been corrected up to date. Tho Lists of
Gardens and Country Seats have been very carefully re¬
vised, while the List of Gardeners is entirely re-written,
and the Post Towns added with the greatest care and
attention, and now forms the most Complete List ever
published. TheOiBDBN Assval may be ordered through
all Booksellers, Nurserymen, and Seedsmen.

It contains, among other matters, the following, vlx. :—
Almanac for the year 1885.

Concise Calendar of Gardening Operations for

each Month.

Flowers, Fruits, and Vegetables procurable each
month.

A carefully compiled Alphabetical List of Nursery¬
men and Seedsmen, Florists, Horticultural
Builders, Engineers, and of the Horticultural
Trade generally, containing nearly 3,500 names.

Tho Principal Gardens, Country Seats, and
Horticultural Trade (ovor 7,260) in Great Britain
and Ireland, arranged in the order of the counties,
extended and corrected to date.

Alphabetical List of Country Seats, and Gardens
in the United Kingdom, with Names of their Owners,
very much extended and corrected to date.

Alphabetical list of Head Gardeners (nearly
7,000) in the principal Gardens of the United Kingdom,
re-written, with nearest Post Towns added.

This list hc«s been augmented by nearly 800 Names
and Addresses.

Ldst of New Plants, Fruits, and Vegetables oerti
floated during the year.

37, SOUTHAMPTON STREET. COVENT GARDEN,
And of all NurseryiVi^nf BobWefliQ and Railway

URBANA-CTOflfrAIGN

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

Voi. VI. DECEMBER 20, 1884. No. 302.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

HERBACEOUS PLANTS.

I HAVE always been very much taken by the
articles which you publish from “A. Sweet,”
and particularly those dealing with herbaceous
plants, ia w hich I take a great interest, and
have to thank him for the pleasing information
which he gives from time to time. His is a
class of plants which have been more or less
neglected, but which, I think, deserves moro
attention than is usually bestowed on them.
With a good collection of these and a minimum
of care bestowed on them my garden need not be
oot of “ bloom " at any time of the year. I have
not wanted bloom for years, and although this
i*» perhaps, the worst season of the year, I could
at present cull several varieties. A good border
of these plants, well selected and arranged, is
gay for a much longer period of the year than
sny garden or plot of the much vaunted
bedding plants ; and, besides, they are not
*o expensive (which is a consideration to a
person of limited means), and they require much
less attention. It is really a pleasure to see
one’s old friends coming up year after year, and,
while gladdening the heart with their beauty
and fragrance, reminding one sometimes of
pleasing incidents of former years. One thing
about “A. Sweet's” articles which I like is that
he explains the part of the country in which he
derives his experiences, and also the natnro of
the soil, climate, Ac., and thus one is enabled
to form an opinion whether the plants he writes
of are likely to suit their own border. In order
that I may not err in the same matter, I will
feUte that my locality is the north of
Ayrshire, and that my soil ia light loam
on a whin*tone bottom, fully exposed to
moat storms, and the climate being damp
we have severe winters. Flowers are likely to
bloom with me quite two weeks later than on
Clydeside. My experience of the gay Gail-
lardia grandiflora is different from that of “ A
Sweet,” as I find it quite hardy, having had a
plant in the border without shelter of any kind
for seven years, and it is increasing yearly. I find
it as easily grown from cuttings in a cold frame
m a Pansy, but it does not bloom the first year
Coreopsis lanceolate blooms well with me, but
does not stand the winter. I always lose my
outside plants, but cuttings grow readily and
bloom the first year. Achillea Ptarmicafl.-pi. is
soother fine flower for cutting or show pur¬
poses whi:h does well, but will not grow from
cuttings, I have a nice blue-coloured Salvia
which I have grown in the border for many
years, and fand quite hardy. It grows
from cuttings, and is a fine plant. It
raa y be Salvia patens, which in some
localities is not hardy. Scabiosa caucasica does
not stand the winter, but it is a fine plant.
Senecio pulcber is another fine thing which I
find rather delicate—as is also the beautiful
' eronica longifolia. I am trying the latter
from cuttings and think I will succeed.
Polemonium Richardsoni is a good plant, but
m this is my first winter with it I cannot say
whether it will stand the climate. Leucanthe
mum maximum (white Marguerite) iB a graceful
plant and grows vigorously, producing hundreds
of its fine blooms. It does well from cuttings.
Helenium pumilnm is another fine thing, and
very floriferous. The bold Harpalium rigidum
i*very hardy. Its roots spread with me like a
Nettle. I can also recommend Gypsophila

S aniculata as a nico thing, bnt I have not
sd long enough experience of it to say
that it will staud the winter. In showing
the herbaceous plants it is the custom, if
possible, to put in a large spike with part of
the foliage attached, and I see “A. Sweet"
approves of this method. Many of the best
plants which are spoken of are of such a habit
M will not allow of spikes being used, as they
grow on long stalks with only one flower at
the end. These you cafFhot show unUfls ip
hunches, and the neater t ^eyf teji -tadathe
better, I would say. There seems a p^eWiling

idea that herbacoous flowers are coarse, and the
manner of showing them encourages this idea.
If annuals look pretty done up in neat bunches,
why should not some of the finer herbaceous
also look well ? There aro few annuals which
are prettier. I shall be obliged if “A. Sweet"
or other correspondents will tell me whether
Lilinm auratum, L. lancifolinm, and others of
that class are regarded as proper herbaceous
flowers in a show-stand. Fjdes.

THE SPRING SNOWFLAKE.

(LKUCOJCM VERNUM.)

This is undoubtedly one of our prettiest spring
blossoms, not long-lived certaiuly, but especially
fresh and beautitul when seen at its best nestling

The Spring Snowflake (Lcucojum vernuin).

in some cosy nook during those soft showery
March days, which are bo highly appreciated
because they come to us so rarely. Blooming
after the Snowdrop has left us, this delicate little
stranger is just in time to welcome the scarlet
Pau Anemones, the finest and sweetest of Violets
and Primroses, and to afford us an effective con¬
trast with Iris reticulata or with its beautiful
German cousin, Iris stylosa, both beautiful gems
in the crown of windy March. Our illustration
shows its habit of growth and size of blossom,
and it also illustrates the habit of this plant, as
mentioned by Curtis, of occasionally bearing
two-flowered scapes.

The culture of this plant is by no means diffi¬
cult, bnt it requires a little care and patienco to
obtain the best results. Some imported bulbs

planted two years ago gave us but very poor
results this season. In a mild and wet winter
climate a rather high and dry position seems
most suitable for its development, such as a
sheltered rockwork, or in a position where tree
rootB induce a certain amount of dryness, top-
dressings being employed to replenish any loss
of fertility they may occasion to the soil. It is
curious to observe how this plant varies in
stature in different soils, and even climate exerts
a marked influence on this, as on most other
hardy bulbs. A good sharp early winter ia, as
I believe, of the greatest possible benefit to
Narcissi, Snowdrops, and Scill&s, as also to the
Snowflakes. After a mild winter growth is slow
and uncertain ; leaves and blossoms keep ap¬
pearing in an erratic and uncertain way. A
hard winter checks growth ; bulbs’ growth does
not appear so soon, but is far more sensitive to
returning warmth and sunshine, and so the
result is a harvest of flowers instead of a drib¬
bling, even if long continued, display. W. B.

Cornflowers. — No doubt the writer in
Gardening (Nov. 15) is wrong in calling these
flowers Corn Cockles. 11 B.” rightly describes
the latter as the Agrostemma Gilhsgo, and that
is a very different flower, beautiful as it is, to
the Corn or Corn Blue Bottle flower, Centaurea
Cyanus. It would be difficult, I might say im¬
possible, by aDy amount of cultivation to pro¬
duce Cornflowers from Corn Cockles. To the
authority “B." quotes, I may add that of
Annie Pntt, in her “ Flowering Plants of
Great Britain." In our authorised version of the
Bible the Cockle is once mentioned, when Job
says—** Let Thistles grow instead of Wheat, and
Cockle instead of Barley." It may be doubted,
however, if “Cockle "Is a correct translation,
as the same Hebrew word is rendered 11 wild
Grapes " in Isaiah. Some noisome weed, like
the “ Tares ” in the New Testament, no doubt ia
intended, and that the foetid Arums of Galilee,
the Nightshade, the Smut, or some other useless
common weed, was referred to by the Patriarch.
—J. P., Lancashire .

Single Dahlias.— On reading your corre¬
spondent’s interesting remarks on “ Dahlias in a
Lancashire Garden,” 1 see at the end he says
“ I raised a nice lot of some seventy seedling
Dahlias this year, but not early enough to get
them well into blossom." If not trespassing on
your valuable space, 1 should like to give your
readers my experience of Dahlias from seed.
There can be no question as to the exceeding
value of the single Dahlia regarded as an annual;
it is, in fact, much the easiest way to grow them
for those who only want, as I did, a good show
of flowers, of all colours, and for cutting. I had
a packet of mixed seed from three seedsmen, all
of which turned out well. I sowed my seed
about the middle of February in seed pans,
which I placed in an ordinary Cucumber frame,
on a hotbed. As soon as the plants were large
enough, I pricked them out into another frame
(similar to the one in which they were raised),
and there they stayed till the end of May, when
they were fine plants. All the trouble they gave
was opening the frame on days when the weather
allowed, and closing it at nights, and now and
then a sprinkling of water. As soon as I con¬
sidered safe from a late frost I planted them oat
where they were to bloom, staking them as they
crew taller, and from July, till the frost in
October cat them down, 1 have bad an unceasing
supply of flowers of splendid size and colour ; in
fact, till quite lately & few in the front of the
house facing south, that escaped the first frosts,
have furnished blooms for cutting. I have saved
the best of the roots, and also a lot of seed, and
next year hope to grow still more. I may say
that my frames were not devoted to Dahlias
alone, but I had lots of other half-hardy annuals
in the same frames. I am sure anyone trying
the same plan cannot fail to be pleased with the
results.—N.

l22U:-^T^tip©nt« of Cap^.lrojtegr—
The Ixias, Sparaxis, and Babianaa naturally qo
to rest in sddiifier, end domkeDee to gfrowl again

514

GARDENING ILL USTIL/1 TED

[Dec. 20, 1884.

in October ; therefore, they should be potted
the latter end of September, but it is not yet
too late. Put about six bulbs in a H inch pot, in
sandy loam, and give very little water till they
come more into growth. When they begin to
grow give plenty of air ; they only need the
shelter of a cold frame in winter. The
Gladiolus should be potted in November, and
should be grown in the open in summer; also
the Latyrium. The Vallota is an evergreen
bulb, requiring but little water in winter and
plenty or air in summer ; only requires potting
every third or fourth year.—J. C., By fled.

12336. — Agapanthus in the open
ground. —Although this plant is hardier than
i3 generully supposed, it cannot he relied on to
pass the winter without protection of some
kind. B*-ing of low growth this is easily
managed—a few Hazel rods bent over, and a
covering of litter put on in frosty weather, being
all that is required. Very much depends upon
the nature of the soil—if light the Agapanthus
will do very well in the open ground, but if of
a heavy cold nature the roots are liable to decay,
and it would be better to lift the plants in
October, planting out again in May.—J. C.,
By fleet.

12349.— Aralia Sieboldi.— This is not
hardy in the sense of being able to withstand
oir average English winters unless in some very
favoured districts. In light soil it may do very
fairly for several years, but the advent of severe
frosts is fatal to its beauty, and often to its life.
Even if it lives it generally presents a rather
woe-begone appearance for some months. It is
a cool house plant in this country, and is very
useful for decorative purposes, being of an
elegant spreading habit, and bearing drought
and a vitiated atmosphere very well. If pro¬
tected, it would, of course, preserve its foliage
intact, but it is scarcely worth while to devote
so much trouble to these doubtfully hardy
plants when there are so many fine things which
do not need this care.—J. C., By fleet.

12316.—Yucca glorlosa (Adam’s Needle) not
blooming.—How are yonr plants si tinted ? Are they in
the shade ? if so they will not be likely to bloom. Thirty
•years is a good age for a Yucca, and the plant ought to
bloom every year. Hardy Yuccas like plenty of sun and
air and a little shelter from rough winds. Perhaps a good
top dressing of manure would do good applied in winter,
but in any case the fullsun should shine on them through
the summer.—J. C. B.

12328.— Single Dahlias —It is hazardous to divide
the crown, and is never done by Dahlia growers. Plant
intact and you will he sure of the plants throwing up well.
Kecpdrv and coo), butaway from frost, through the winter.
— J. C B.

Storing Dahlias.—I would advise that the tops be
not cut off as soon as the frost blackens the plant, as
that allows the rain to enter and gets down to the roots ;
but let them etanl for a week or two to ripen, then cut
bask and take up the roots on a flne dry morning, letting
them remain in the open air until evening, and then store
away where intended to winter.—F.

Violets.—Amongst varieties of Violets that should find
a place in every collection we must undoubtedly include
tho Venice. It is considerably larger than Marie Louise,
has a full, well-rounded eye, and tho white marking round
tho eye is clear and well defined. The blooms stand well
up on along stalk, and,being large, are useful for button¬
hole bouquets. —E. B.

Striking Bouvardias.— Cuttings of Bou-
vardias will strike freely ia a close case, with or
without bottom heat, provided the temperature
is kept at about 75 degs., but they must not be
kept eo close as to cause them to damp off.
Unless, however, the plants from which the
cuttings are taken have been properly managed,
so as to furnish them in the right condition, the
chances are that not one in twenty will root, no
matter how treated. The shoots of Bouvardias
that have been allowed to go on through the
autumn and up to the present time in the ordi¬
nary way, making more or less growth, are not
in a condition to furnish cuttings that can be
dealt with satisfactorily. To yield the right
Bortof cuttings, theplauts should be dried offin
autumn, so as to cause the leaves to fall off, like
those of old Fuchsias that are permitted to get
quite dry ; after that the shoots should be
Hhortened back in a way to remove all the soft
wood, putting the plants in heat, and giving
them a good soaking, so as to moisten the sou
properly. Thus treated, they will break out
directly at almost every eye, and when the
young shoots are about 2 inches long, if taken off
at the bottom, they will root as finely as those
of Fuchsias and v«yJMpta a .—T.

INDOOR PLANTS.

DOUBLE WHITE CHINESE PRIMULAS.
Horticultural writers frequently regret that
certain plants are not more generally known
and cultivated than they are. In offering a few
hints on double Primulas, more especially the
old double white, I cannot consistently make
use of this phrase, simply because every culti¬
vator with any pretension to experience is well
acquainted with this Primula. This being the
case, it ia really surprising how few there are
who fully appreciate its value Growers for
market, however, make no mistake in the
matter ; and if the truth could be arrived at,
those who grow the old double white extensively
find it to be quite as remunerative, if not more
bo, than any other plant grown. In our case,
for fully six months in the year, we are almost
daily cutting quantities of trusses or whorls of
bloom, and find them most serviceable for any
purpose for which white flowers are in request.
The more we cut, the more bloom is produced,
the plants rapidly increasing in size all the
time. Single crowns in June are by the follow¬
ing June of a size to admit of being divided
into twenty crowns, and sometimes even then
blooming abundantly.

Potting, etc. —When we first commenced
with our present stock of plants they were
standing in a cold frame, and in a wretched
over-potted, sour condition. My first proceeding
was to have them shaken clear of the sour soil
and repotted in 3-inch pots, and in a compost
consisting of two parts fibrous loam, one part
each of p >at and leaf-soil, with a liberal additiou
of sand and charcoal. Any that could be were
divided, and all were cleared of the lower leaves
and potted deeply ; that is to say, the whole of
the stems were buried, only the hearts being
clear of the soil. This deep potting—not only
with double Primulas, but also with the single
varieties—is an important detail, for the reason
that, if exposed, they are almost certain to
canker, this resulting in the loss of the plant;
whereas, if properly buried, the stems freely
emit roots into the soil, and, instead of being a
source of daDger, become a source of strength.

A well-grown Primula ought not to require
supporting with stakes. Our repotted old plants
were placed on a shelf in a moderately warm
house, were shaded from bright sunshine, and
carefully watered, saturation being particularly
guarded against. In about a fortnight they
were rooting freely, and w T cre then shaded from
very bright sunshine only. Before becoming
root-bound they were shifted into 4-inch and
5-inch pots, according to their strength, the
compost employed being similar to that given
above, only broken up more roughly. They
were returned into the heat and treated as
before. Directly they were found well-estab¬
lished in their fresh quarters, they were trans¬
ferred to a sunny pit and stood on a bed of ashes.
Here they received abundance of air, being
shaded from bright sunshine, watered as required,
and all bloom pinched out as it formed. A few
of the very strongest were shifted into 7-inch
pots. No attempt is ever made to secure strong
sappy growth, as we find that those with sturdy
growth and yellowish green foliage, provided
they are well established, bloom the most freely,
and are less liable to damp off during the dull
winter months.

During winter, say from October onwards,
we do not repeat the mistake perpetrated by so
many cultivators, of endeavouring to flower our
stock in a cool greenhouse, or under the same
conditions as suit some of the larger double and
semi double and single-flowering Chinese
Primulas. The whole of our batch are placed
on airy shelves originally put up for Straw¬
berries, and which are disposed not far from the
hot-water pipes and near to the glass, at the
hack of a half-span range of forcing houses.
Here the night temperature during the late
autumn and winter months ranges from 45 degs.
to 50 degs., the day temperature being about
10 degs. higher, according to the external con¬
ditions. In such a position well-established
plants do not form strong growth, but, with the
aid of liquid manure about twice a week, they
bloom continuously. I have tried them on
a moist bottom and farther from the glass in
the same houses, with the result of the plants
producing stronger and greener foliage, but
much less bloom. Those plants required for

decorative purposes are not much cut from, and
when the bloom are well above the foliage
they prove very effective and very seiviceablo.
At the end of March the stock is transferred
to a swing shelf in a greenhouse, and here they
continue to flower till the end of May, at
which time they are again taken in hand.
Having abundance of large spreading plants,
we merely pull them to pieces, and pot all
that have plenty of roots and a good-sized
ball of soil attached. These are repotted
into 4 inch, 5 inch, and 6-inch pots, according
to their sizes, are placed in a pit which is kept
rather close, and shaded during bright weather.
In this manner we soon have them rooted and
getting strong for the winter, those in small
pots only being shifted into larger ones. For
Primulas the pots should be clean and well
drained, and large shifts ought never to be
given.

Propagating. —When I find it necessary to
largely increase the stock, as tbe old plants are
being divided any pieces that have few or no
roots attached were placed inthecentres of 2-inch
pots filled with sandy, peaty soil; and, to steady
them till such time as they are rooted, three
small stakes are pressed in closely to their
hearts, and a piece of raffia is wound round them.
Such divisions have to be placed in a good heat,
and shaded till rooted. A quicker and more
certain plan is to add a rim of potsherds to the
pots containing large plants, and then to
surround the stems to a good depth with fine
sandy soil; or Moss may be substituted for the
soil and extra rim. In either case, to encourage
quick rooting, the plants require to be stood in
a warm, lightly shaded house or pit, where a
rather moist atmosphere is maintained, and
the soil or Moss also kept uniformly moist.
When the stems have emitted roots into the top¬
dressing, the plants can be pulled to pieces, and
each rooted division be potted off singly into
small pots, returned to heat, and grown on as
above advised. None of the newer double
Primulas I have tried, nor the seedling semi¬
doubles, will thrive or bloom satisfactorily in
the same heat we give the old double white, nor
are they half so serviceable. We find the
latter travels well and lasts well when cut.
Vases filled entirely with its expanded blooms
and Maiden hair Fern fronds are very charmiDg
for the dinner table, and the blooms are not to
be despised for bouquet work. W. I. M.

WINTER PELARGONIUMS.

The Rev. W. Atkinson is a good variety for
winter flowering, but there are many others
also well adapted for the purpose. We have a
house 50 feet long nearly filled with zonals, and
a most cheerful sight it has presented during
the last few weeks. The plants have been in
fine bloom all through the season along with
the Chrysanthemums, and now they are as fresh
and blooming as well as ever they did, there
beiDg plenty of trusses in all stages of develop¬
ment. Our house is a span-roofed one, and has
been specially built to produce flowering Pelar¬
goniums in winter. There is a flow and return
1-inch pipe fixed to the roof about a foot from
the base of the rafters. As the weather has
been very mild we have used these roof pipes
only, but in case they should be required pipes
are also fixed in the usual way. The cuttings
are put in in April and May, and daring
summer the plants do as well out-of-doors in
an exposed place as anywhere else ; they
are potted in 6-inch and 7-pots in August
or September ; they begin to flower in October,
and continue to do so until the houses
are gay with Hyacinths and other spring
flowers, when they are not so much wanted. We
have grown during the last few years a great
many varieties, but have made selections again
and again, reducing the double varieties very
much indeed. They do not seem to open their
flowers well with us ; there are a few exceptions,
notably the one named The Lord Mayor, a deep
rose-coloured variety, which can be highly re¬
commended for its free-blooming propensity,
and also for its neat dwarf habit. Nymphc ia
put down as the best double white ; it is also of
dwarf habit. Raspail ia the best double scarlet,
although we also grow Wonderful, another dwarf
form of this colour ; its numerous small trusses
' of flowers are very useful when cut. Aglaia has
|U denioid purple tint, tifijraefc a iittle with
crimson, and has been seiected as the best in its

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

l)sc. 20, 1884.]

gardening illustrated

515

class. Ville de Nancy forms a sturdy plant,
producing fine trusses of paper*white flowers
tinged with rosy red at the base. The above
seems to be a very limited collection ; but what
is the use of growing scores of varieties if they
do not produce good blooms and in quantity ?
We grew quite thirty-six varieties this winter.

As to single kinds, their name is legion ; but
1 find on referring to my note-book that they
have been reduced to 17 varieties. These have
been selected from our own collection, but some
new varieties which I saw at Swanley are likely
to induce us to make a new arrangement next
year. Our best white is a variety with the
absurd name of “I've got it,” but I fancy when
we grow Soowball with it the first-named will
not be wanted. Olive Carr and Constance are
our best rose-coloured varieties, but probably
Constance, flue as it is, will be displaced. Mrs.
Sturt is another good ro3e-coloured variety,
dwarf in habit, and a free bloomer. Evening
Star and Fanny Thorpe are of the salmon tints,
and I know nothing that can be placed
before them either new or old. It requires a
very great stretch of imagination to describe
any of the zonals as being yellow. Donald
Beaton’s Indian yellow seems to have gone out
of cultivation ; those that represent that colour
at present are Jealousy, Guinea, and lastly
New Guinea. We grow a few plants of each,
as the bright orange- red colour has a charming
effect amongst the others.

Others of which we do not grow large quanti¬
ties are Dr. Orton, Eva, Itosa Bonheur, Miss
Hamilton, E lith, Ouida, Leona Dare, W. B.
Miller, and Commander-in-Chief. I would add
that if the best results are to be obtained, the
plants rau3t not be crowded ; on the contrary,
they must have a circulation of air round them
almost constantly. The night temperature of
the house is not more than 50 degs., and the
dryish atmosphere always makes it a pleasant
promenade. Such a house is well adapted for
flowering Bouvardias, Tree Carnations, and
other plants. When a house of this kind is
being built and the hot-water pipes fixed, the
extra expense of roof-heating is scarcely worth
thinking about. J.

DECORATIVE PALMS.

To cultivators whose knowledge of Palms is
limited to an experience with them when small
and serviceable for pot-work, it may be interest¬
ing to learn that almost the whole of the plants
which belong to the great Palm order are,
when fully developed, quite tree-like iu their
proportions, and not a few of them are even
worthy of comparison with the Mammoth Pines
of the forests of North America. It is the as-

Livistona Hoogendorp’.

sumption of a graceful ornamental habit almost
as soon as they are developed from the seed, and
their continuance in such habit until they are of
mature growth, that has led to the popularity of
a large number of Palms in all the work apper¬
taining to the decorator and the plantsman’s art.
Palms, either fan-leaved or plumose, or feather-
like, always occupy one of the principal posi¬
tions iu the decoration of rooms, dinner-tables,
halls, and at all festivities,^and amours'
mixed collections of stove Hind ho jW]

they figure largely and always with striking
effect. Recently even the theatres have begun
to add to their attractions a selection of grace¬
ful Palms, which, placed about the auditorium,
or upon the stage itself, lend an air of grace and
refinement to the surroundings. We are as yet
only in the beginning of art of this kind. In
Continental towns it is rarely, indeed, that one
enters a place of public entertainment, a cafe,
or a restaurant, and fails to find a free sprink¬
ling of graceful foliage and flowering plants,

Washimrtonia Glifera.

adding light and beauty such as plants only
do add to such places. Palms, of course, figure
prominently in all works of this kind, a fact
which to a large extent accounts for the great
popularity of the Palm order with our own
Continental brethren and the enormous number
of them grown for purposes of decoration. It is
surprising to an English gardener to note the
numberless kinds that are employed in France,
Belgium, and Germany for the embellishment of
halls, &c., many of them, too, such as he has
been carefully coddling, from the impression
that they were delicate and incapable of stand¬
ing anything but good treatment. By a system
of gradual hardening off so as to inure the plants
to the rough life they are destined for, a large
number of Palms are made serviceable for the
decorator’s use in foreign towns, and it appears
to us that a great deal more might be done by
cultivators here in providing more variety of
foliage for uses of a similar kind. Palms, from
their robust, bony nature, are especially adapted
for this kind of work. The three species repre¬
sented by the accompanying woodcuts may be
instanced as possessing both in appearance and
sturdiness of constitution the requirements
essential in a useful furnishing plant. Of the
first, Livistona Hoogendorpi, it may be said
that, like its relations, L. chinensis (Latania
borbonica) and L. rotundifolia, it may be used
with impunity for furnishing of all kinds.
Dwarfer in stature, with leaf stalks covered
with stout brown spines, and the leaf-blade
divided almost from its base into a number of
arching segments, it is quite distinct from the
two other species here mentioned. Washing-
tonia filifera (Pritchardia filamentosa) might be
called the Weeping Willow Palm, the long
silky filaments that hang in such profusion from
its graceful fan leaves giving it an appearance
not unlike that tree. It is almost hardy, beiDg
a native of the Southern States of North
America, but happiest when grown in a warm
greenhouse, and, if a large specimen is desired,
when planted in a border. Being a quick
grower, it soon develops into a useful size. The
third plant is Calamus Lindeni of gardens,
though whether a Calamus or an Oncosperma,
it is not yet possible to say. M. Linden intro¬
duced it from the East Indies a year or two ago.
The leaves are bright green above and silvery
on the underside. There is a host of Calami of
habit similar to this, and although they are all
natives of tropical regions, they may be so
managed in this country as to prove available
for decorative work. The Kentias, Seaforthias,
Chamnerops, Phoenixes, Hyophorbes, and many
other genera comprise plants that prove of great
value for a similar purpose. B.

i Lobelias from seed. —Many who make a
practice of raising Lobelias from seed sow in
w armth in early spring. This is neither the best
nor the easiest way, as if sown now and kept in
an ordinary greenhouse temperature, the seed
will come up quite as well, if not so quickly, as
later on in heat. By sowing now the plants
will get a long season of growth, and will be in
every way better for planting out; having been
grown quite cool they will be more robust and
enduring than when subjected to a hurrying
temperature. Sow rather thinly in pans and
boxes, and place them near the light, covering
the pan with a piece of glass until the young
plants appear. If the seed is good it will not
be long in germinating, and as the young plants
will get plenty of air from their infancy they
will develop into compact little specimens by
the time they are needed for outdoor decora¬
tion. It is a mistake to put bedding Lobelias
singly into small pots ; the better plan is to
prick them out when large enough to handle
into pans or boxes, eventually planting them
out in rather light, well-prepared soil in a cold
frame. If put into pots, they must have framo
room during April and part of May, and if they
can be set out as recommended by the middle
of March they will make a great amount of
roots, and will be in fine condition by the latter
end of May. It would be better if all beddiDg
plants could be grown without pots, as often¬
times the roots get matted, forming hard balls,
which are apt, when put into the loose earth, to
become and remain over dry. In any case, if
pots are used, it is better to put two plants in a
pot, as the pulling apart loosens the ball and
obviates this danger.—J. C.

Lilium giganteum. — For some reason
which I am uuable to explain my attempts to
grow this noble Lily permanently planted out
in the open in a satisfactory manner has alto¬
gether failed. I can only surmise that the posi¬
tion which the plant occupied was too much
exposed to the sun, but as it was the best I could
secure for it, I, therefore, gave up the attempt
and took to growing it in pots. That I am right
in my surmise that this Lily thrives best in
moderate shade has been to my mind pretty clearly
verified by its behaviour since I had it in pots.
Before I go farther, however, I may remark that
only large and perfectly healthy bulbs are capa¬
ble of flowering in a way that will show the true
character of this noble plant. This season v* hen
I lifted my bulbs from the open they were potted
singly in 16-inch pots—that is to say, the largest
of them, the smaller ones being put in pots of
different sizes ; although the bulbs were what I
considered large and of a flowering size, they did
not produce anything but leaves the first year,

Calamus Lindeni.

which after all perhaps was as much as I could
have expected, for with such a vigorous growing
plant late autumn potting would not favour
flowering the following season ; their subsequent
behaviour, however, quite rewarded me for my
patience, for the second year the largest bulbs
dowered in a way that justifies all that has been
said concerning the beauty.of this Lily. The
largest plant produced a flower stem 8 feet high,
and fUfhjshed with thirteen flowers. The treat¬
ment which the plants received was very simple,

IRBfcNA-CHAVPA GN

51G

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 20, 1884.

Bavin# plenty of space in a large unheated
house, they were placed in one corner where
they had plenty of air and were lightly shaded
by the branches of a Rose treetraiued under the
glass. During summer they had an abundant
supply of liquid manure given them, which they
evidently liked, for the leaves they made were
very large and of the darkest green. From my
experience, I am quite convinced that the only
way to get this Lily into satisfactory condition
is to grow the young bulbs thoroughly well, and
to do this the soil cannot well be too rich, if not
too light, nor can they have too much help from
the manure tank while growing. As a matter
of course, during winter, while the plants are at
rest, they require only just enough water to
keep the soil moist. Thero must be no attempt
to hurry them, for they evidently like to have
their own way, and then, ■with generous treat¬
ment, they will not fail to reward the cultivator
with their flowers. I am quite satisfied that it
is useless to attempt to grow this Lily in smaller
than 16-inch or lS-inch pots, and to get it in its
true character the plants must be well fed ;
they require to be grown one year in the pots in
which they arc to flower, and even then it is
useless to put in a small offset and expect it to
flo wer. In order to keep up our stock of plants,
we take off the offsets or small bulbs which are
formed round the flo wer-stein as soon as the
plants go out of flower. These we pot in 10-inch
pots, in which they are grown one year, and
the next autumn they are shifted into the pots
in which they are to flower. The compost we
use consists of three parts strong loam and one
part manure; moderate drainage only is re¬
quired. The whole outline of management is
of the most ordinary kind : given the shelter
of a glass roof and moderate shade while growing,
thero is no need to fear frost or cold currents
of air. I mast not, however, be understood to
say that they will not flower in smaller pots
than I have named ; I have had them in flower
both in 10-inch and 12-inch pots, but the size
of the stem, as well as its height and number
of flowers produced, were all insignificant com¬
pared with those grown in larger pots.—J. G.

Grafting Oytisus fllipes —This elegant
winter flowering Cytisns does well grafted on
the common Broom or the Laburnum, its growth
then being more vigorous than on its own roots ;
besides, if grafted, say, at the height of a couple
of feet from the pot, the long drooping shoots
then bIiow themselves off to advantage. If the
stocks are in pots, grafting can be performed at
any time during the summer months, when they
must be kept perfectly close and shaded till a
union takes place. As the stocks are by no
means liable to perish, they can be headed down
to the height required and cleft grafted, when,
if tiod on securely, no wax or clay will be needed,
rovided there is an air-tight case in which to
eep them. If there is not a case in the propa¬
gating house deep enough for them to stand up¬
right in, they can be laid down horizontally, or
nearly so, without injury.—T.

Filmy Ferns. —Although it is immaterial at
which time of the year Todeas and other Filmy
Ferns are repotted, that operation is generally
attended with best results when performed in
February or March. The soil most suitable for
them is good fibrous peat broken fine, to which
may bo added a dash of silver sand. In potting
Todeas care must be taken that the crowns are
kept well above the soil, which must not be
pressed too hard, and great attention must be
paid also to the size of the pots, as overpotting
is very injurious to them. Perhaps the most
important point iu the operation is the drainage
of the pots, which must be carefully done, for
although Filmy Ferns are fond of natural and
especially condensed moisture, stagnant water
at the roots is very injurious to them.—S>

Two plants for the conservatory.—
Coleus Mrs. G. Simpson and Francoa appendicu-
lata are two most useful plants for the summer
decoration of a conservatory or large greenhouse.
A group of well-grown specimens of the Coleus,
with its very bright foliage, and a liberal per¬
centage of long feathery spines, of the Francoa
judiciously mixed amongst them, has a very
pleasing effect. Cuttings of the Coleus may be
inserted at once and grown along sharply. It
;£>out the strongest grower in the genus, and
wilf c8£ft uent ly stand close pinching to keep
it in good^ape. Francoas which have

been up to t,P res< #^ frames or

pits may now be overhauled and a shift given
where required. They should be grown along
steadily in any cool structure.—E. B.

Double Marguerite Aurora —The value
of this pretty new variety, which appears to
be a double-flowered form of Chrysanthemum
coronarium, is its winter-flowering character.
Throughout the autumn and winter, and,
indeed, spring also, it produces a profusion of
its pretty button-like rosettes of bright golden
yellow. The long time during which the flowers
last when cut makes it particularly useful for
indoor decoration. Messrs. Cannell grow it
extensively in their nursery at Swanley, and at
each committee meeting at South Kensington
they invariably show flowers of it—a proof of
the persistency with which it flowers.

Culture of Lilium auratum.— A good
subject never loses by the honourable discussion
of its j ros and cons , and I have no fault to find
with Mr. Cornhill in so friendly criticising my
communication, published in your issue of 8th
November. I do not consider it as being
adversely criticised, for I venture to think that
his criticism has simply missed its mark. With
all the cultural hints he has given regarding this
Lily I am well acquainted, these being chiefly
the “old lines” to which I referred in my
remarks of the above date. Regarding the
mode of culture enunciated in these, Mr. Corn-
hill seems to take exception only to one part—
viz., the drying—or resting, as I prefer to call it
—of the bulbs. Of this he says that it is acting
in opposition to the teachings of nature, and
adds :—“ Thus we know that no Lily
ever absolutely rests, but continues to make
roots all the year round.” To this hypothesis
I will meanwhile only say, question ! But
granting that resting the bulbs of Lilium
auratum is acting in some measure against the
habits of this and most Lilies grown naturally
in the open air, it remains to be proved that to
rest them in the way I indicated is not produc¬
tive of good results wheu we resort to pot or
artificial culture, and this is the question at
issue. In the same way it remains to be proved
that this Lily never absolutely rests. Uuder
the treatment I advocated, I maintain it does
rest. When properly ripened and dried the
bulbs rest until I give them water before re¬
potting, and this, I said, “ incites root action.”
Again, as to its being wrong to destroy what is
naturally preserved in open air culture—that
is, the roots—if it be wrong, to prepare them for
exportation to us, as is presently done with them
in thousands, must be most barbarous, how¬
ever necessary an evil it may bo considered to
be. One would think under such treatment that
imported bulbs would always fail of anything
like perfection the first year, yet Mr. Cornhill
will admit that first-rate bulbs can be flowered as
near perfection the first season a3 any subse¬
quent, and sure enough they do not come to us
with any of these white fibrous roots of which
he speaks. Well, this goes a long way to prove
that it is not so harmful to rest the bulbs a3
your correspondent would make out. Why I
say Mr. Cornhill’s criticism misses its mark is
because he says, “ If after the stems have died
down you keep the soil just moist.” Ah ! but
this is in direct opposition to what I said : “ As
soon as the blooms are post I water with great
care, rather sparingly, to assist in the ripening
of the bulbs and stems ;” this for the very pur¬
pose of preventing tho root making which ho
incites and encourages by keeping tho soil moist,
and aa iu these circumstances they do not grow
they caunot be destroyed. I consider it to be
more advantageous to the bulbs when they are
kept in a state of rest for a time after spending
so much of their strength in producing the
flowers of one season before being called forth
to the work of another. Undoubtedly they
come with more renewed vigour to please tho
eye and charm the olfactory nerves if so treated
than if kept under the conditions favourable to
continuous activity when under pot culture.
Consequently, I approve of repotting them every
year in order to give them something fresh to
feed upon at once, and, after having a rest, why
should not their full development thus be
realised?—F. Davidson*, Paidnj.

Ranunculus aconitifolius. — We are
now lifting and potting tubers of this grand old
Ranunculus to force along with Spirceas and
Hyacinths. It is a pity that it is not more
widely known that, although quite hardy, it

will stand forcing year after year if the pots,
after it has flowered, be plunged outside and
well watered until the foliage dies down. Sprays
of this pure white flower make excellent wreaths
and bouquets. A spray and a scarlet Geranium
pip, with a spray of Maiden-hair, makes a pretty
button hole.—W. H., Sale.

Myrtles. —These are most useful in the
winter season, and if the plants have been well
managed, so as to make their growth early and
get the wood well matured by being stood out
iu tho sun through the summer, they force well.
Independent of their appearance when in bloom,
they are very serviceable for cutting, their
pretty flowers and neat foliage being very
effective, combined with other things of a more
showy character. The miniature variety, Jenny
Rcitcnbach, is one of the best for bouquets.

Forcing Snowdrops.— It is a singular
fact that the growth of Snowdrops is rather
retarded than hastened by placing them in a
high temperature; even very mild winters do
not advance the blooming season perceptibly.
Although this winter has been very free from
frost, I have frequently seen Snowdrops, when
we have had severe weather, more forward at
this date than this year. Last eeason, by way
of experiment, I planted a quantity of Snow¬
drops and Aconite bulbs iu the border of a Peach
house, but I find that those outside are equally
forward ; in fact, these hardy bulbs seem to need
a spell of exposure to severe weather before they
start freely into growth. My experience, in¬
deed, of forcing hardy plants is, that when sub
jected to a very cool temperature for some time
previous, they respond to heat much more
readily than when such is not the case.—
J. G. H.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

VEGETABLES WORTH GROWING.
Almost every post uow brings ua a seed cata¬
logue, some containing only a brief list of vege¬
tables, others the names of nearly every vege¬
table known. The merits of some are set forth
by illustrations, both coloured and otherwise,
and the novelties are furnished with recommen¬
dations from well-known growers, but besides
these there are multitudes of vegetables merely
mentioned by name, and therefore the uninitiated
have great difficulty in deciding what to order
and what to avoid. Much loss may soon occur
through growing inferior sorts, and also sorts
that become fit for use at the wrong season.
Testing the merits of new vegetables is one of
the most interesting occupations which anyone
can take in hand in connection with a kitchen
garden, and all who have time and space to
devote to it should do all they can in this way,
as they will be benefited by it themselves in the
shape of choice and good productions, and the
information gained if imparted to others may bo
useful. With this, therefore, in view, I will
briefly point out a few of the good qualities be¬
longing to the following, well knowing that one
and all of them are capable of giving satisfaction
to all classes of cultivators.

Asparagus.—F orcing this is an easy matter ;
abundance of it may be had from November
until July. Good cultivation will always pro¬
duce large roots, but fine heads ouly come from
the best sorts, and tho more carefully the stock
is saved the better will be the produce. The
Early Purple Argenteuil is a fine sort when pro¬
cured quite true, and Conovers Colossal, a deep
green-coloured kind, is first-rate for general
culture. I am inclined to think Reading Giant,
Carter’s Mammoth, Emperor, and several others
prefaced with seedsmen’s names are only selec¬
tions from this, and not very distinct, but so
long as they are not inferior to the original
perhaps little harm is done. Where much
Asparagus is forced, young roots must be raised
annually, and there is no better way of doing
thin than by means of seed.

Artiotiokes. —Of these thero arc two kinds
in the Globe section, and they are very distinct,
the one producing purple heads and tho other
green ones. The purple one is said to be the
favourite in France, but in English gardens the
green one is always the finest, being larger than
the other and more tender. None come very
true from seed, how<av|Giyand in order to have
them pure suckers or young plants must be
iPtttUGR Artichokes o re not much of a

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

3

I

Dec. 20, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

517

cottager’s vegetable, but when nicely cooked
they are much valued. The Jerusalem Arti¬
choke may be cooked like a Potato or used in
soups, but it can only be propagated and in¬
creased profitably by planting the small tubers
or roots. About this time we lift our crop,
pick out the big tubers, and replant the small
ones for the next year’s crop. When scarce a
large one may be cut up into a number of sets.

Brans. —These form an important crop in
most gardens, and everybody knows the three
kinds—Dwarf, Runner, and Broad. The Dwarfs
have the advantage of growing and podding
without any support, bat thi3 the Runners will
not do with the greatest degree of profit. Of
dwarf-growing sorts, Canadian Wonder and
Osborn’s Forcing are still the two best. The
Canadian is most productive and good in the
open air in summer, and Osborn’s is an excel¬
lent kind for forcing. Amongst Runners there
is a great; variety of names, but when many of
the plants to which they are attached are
grown side by side even their introducers could
not tell which was which ; in fact, they differ
more in the seed than in the pod or leaf. Giant
White is pure white in the colour of the seed, largo
in pod, and very prolific ; Girfcford Giant is also
large in the pod. Champion is a very heavy
cropper ; and of the true old Scarlet Runner,
Webb's Selected is a thoroughly good kind. Mont
d’Or or Golden Butter Bean produces pods not
unlike those of Canadian Wonder ; it has, how¬
ever, the habit of the Runners, and thejpods are
pale lemon, tender, and good. Broad Beans,
although no great favourites with professional
cooks, are much valued by many, and there arc
plenty of sorts from which to select. The
Windsor varieties are not now considered worth
much. Early Mazagan is the earliest of all, and
Aquadulce ia one of the largest podded. Seville
Long-pod is a good sort, prolific and tender, and,
as an all-round sort of the highest merit, 1
would make special mention of Kinver Mam¬
moth.

Best. —Medium-sized clean roots and richly-
coloured flesh are the points to secure in Beet,
and the true Dell’s Crimson possesses all those
qualities in a high degree.

Broccoli.— Of this not a great many sorts are
needed to give a snpply from November till
June. None of the autumn sorts equal Vcitch’s
Self-protecting, and from November until tho
new year at least it may be fully relied on.
Snow’s is not so good as Backhouse’s for
January, and Webb’s Perfection, Wheeler’s
Winter, and Reading Giant are excellent in
February and March. Webb’s Champion is a
fine sort for cutting in April, and Sutton’s Late
Queen has no equal in May.

Brussels Sprouts. —Many are now begin¬
ning to discover that the improved Sprouts
now produced in the form of Bmall Cab¬
bages are flavourless compared -with the
little marblelike balls of tho old kind.
Although I have grown the big ones, 1 find
that the small compact sorts are the hardiest
and beBt flavoured. As a large one, Sutton’s
Exhibition will meet all demands where size is
concerned, and the small ones are best repre¬
sented by the Dalkeith and Rosebery varieties.
Of the former I have now ono of the most even
quarters of Sprouts ever possessed.

Borecole or Kale is only acceptable after a
severe winter, and the best varieties of it are
the Cottagers’ Kale and Wheeler’s Imperial
Hearting. The Asparagus variety is nicely
flavoured, but not very hardy, a defect in this
class of vegetable.

Cauliflowers. —These should come in in
May and end in November. The earliest is
Veitch’s Extra Early Forcing, to which all the
other “extra earlies” show aclose relationship.
To follow this, Early London is out of date, and
I would substitute Webb’s Mammoth, following
with Sutton’s King, and finishing with Autumn
Giant.

Carrots. —Of these choice varieties only
should be grown ; therefore selected Altring-
hams and Long Surreys should be excluded.
French Horn, Nantes Horn, and Intermediate
are the only kinds worth growing for quality.
Biddle’s Stump-rooted is an economical Carrot,
alike thick all through, and a great favourite
with some.

Cabbages. —Out of the many we have selected
for future culture Cocoa-nut, a little beauty ;

Emperor, Allheart, a
excellent; and Red

one of the | highest
,b-

if the highes
UTjlJrk Cab

bages are only useful for cattle, and the Red for
pickling.

Cucumbers. —Of these the introductions of
this year alone would afford a chaDge every
month. But, judging from past experience, I
am inclined to think that many of them can
possess no character for distinctness. Apart
from this, however, I know of some which it
would be difficult to surpass. As an exhibition
Cucumber, Tender and True may be grown ; and
Empress of India is equal to this in size and
beauty, more hardy in constitution, and far
more prolific. Cardiff Castle is a distinct kind,
which everybody should grow who values a per¬
fect table Cucumber. I may add, too, that
when ordering Cucumber seeds I never omit to
send for a few seeds of tho True Rollison’s
Telegraph ; not that it is really better than
those just named, but one does not like to
neglect an old and trustworthy friend.

Celf.ry. —As a dwarf kind, White Gem is the
most distinct and best white I have seen. In
large reds, Mammoth is a solid, crisp, finely-
flavoured sort; and Cole’s Crystal White is a
good companion to it. The Turnip-rocted
Celeriac is very useful for soups or stew ing.

Cnou de Burghley.— This is not only a dis¬
tinct, but a really first-class vegetable ; it grows
freely, producing fine large delicate heads,
which possess all the flavour of the most
delicious Broccoli. Those who taste it once
would not like to be without it afteiwards,
especially in the late autumn and winter
months.

Endive. —The varieties of this are nume¬
rous, but now we only grow and recommend one
kind, and that is the Batavian Improved
Round-leaved. From October until April this
produces massive heads of the greatest excel¬
lence.

Lettuces have now been brought to a high
state of perfection, and there are plenty from
which to choose. Of Cabbage sorts I must men¬
tion Tom Thumb, a very choice early kind ;
New Summerhill, large and of good quality ;
Marvel, a kind quite purple in colour; and
Perfect Gem, a name which well explains its
character. Of older kinds All the Year Round
and Neapolitan are the best, and for winter
Hardy Green and Stanstead Park. Amongst
Cos varieties there are now many fine ones,
notably Monstrous White, Kingsholm, and
Reading Mammoth White, the last a new and
excellent variety. Moor Park, Hicks’ Hardy
White, and Bath Sugarloaf are the most reliable
winter kindB.

Leeks. —St. David is a kind much grown in
Wales and one which gives much satisfaction.
The Lyon is not true in character ; some come
large and finely formed, but not all. Ayton
Castle and Henry’s Prize appear to be one and
the same ; both are good, and so is the old
Musselburgh. Dobble’s Champion is no improve¬
ment on these, nor is Conqueror.

Onions always forms an important crop, con¬
cerning which it is said, “Breathes there a man
with a soul so dead, Who never to himself hath
said, This is my own, my Onion bed,” and if
the Onion grub can be kept off, a good bed too
it may be. Giant Zittau is the best of the kinds
for autumn sowing, and Banbury, Exhibition,
James’ Keeping, and Bedfordshire Champion
are all excellent for summer use. The Queen is
a wild, quick-growing kind.

Peas. —Good kinds of these are so numerous
that the list might easily be made a long one.
As a dwarf early, American Wonder merits
attention, and to does William I., still a
standard sort. Sunrise is cot this, but
Sangster’s No. 1 is. Of second earlies we
must name Dr. McLean, and Giant Marrow and
Paragon are two very fine Peas. Telegraph,
Telephone, Stratagem, Triumph, Electric Light,
and Stourbridge Marrow are also all good. Of
late kinds Latest of All is the finest Pea I have
ever grown. Omega and Veitch’s Perfection
may also be named here. Of mid season Peas
on trial last year, Hurst’s Duke of Albany was
the beat.

Varieties of vegetables. —French Break¬
fast, Red and White Turnips, Wood’s Early
Frame, and China Rose for winter are all good
and useful Radishes. Rhubarb may consist of
Johnston’s St. Martin’s and Mitchell’s Royal
Albert. Savoys of Drumhead, Green Globe,

| and Dwarf Ulm, Spinach of Round for summer
and Prickly for winter use. Of Tomatoes,
i Trentham, Early Fillbasket, Glamorgan, and

the Drumlanrlg are very prolific, large fruited,
and very fine in quality ; Greengage is the finest
of the yellow-fruiting sorts. Of Turnips select
Early Munich, Snowball, Veitch’s Red Globe,
and Chirk Castle. Where yellow ones are pre¬
ferred to the latter in winter, Orange Jelly
should be growD. Muir’s Hybrid Prolific Vege¬
table Marrow, Mr. Pettigrew, Cardiff Castle,
asserts to be the finest flavoured Marrow he
ever tasted. The Custard variety has singu¬
larity of form to recommend it, and Prince
Albert is a good green variety.

Potatoes. —As varieties of these multiply
it becomes more and more necessary to
select the best. Early Ashleaf, Covent Garden
Perfection, and the Gloucestershire Kidney,
should all be grown as early Potatoes. Read¬
ing Hero, Wheeler’s Safeguard, Schoolmaster,
Paterson’s Victoria, and Champion have much
to recommend them as the finest table Potatoes.
Scores of others could be named which have
been tried here, but their culture would only
lead to disappointment, especially in wet,
unfavourable seasons. Of new and really good
Potatoes I have not a large list to offer, but
special mention should be made of Sharpe’s
Victoria, a flattish round variety of remarkably
quick growth, free from disease, and of the
highest quality. It ia excellent for frames or
early borders. Double Gloucester is a seedling
from Magnum Bonum, not at all liable to disease,
a heavy cropper, good in quality, and likely to
become equally well known as tho type from
which it sprung. J. M.

EARLY LETTUCES.

Up to the present there have been no losses
from frosts among autumn-sown Lettuce plants ;
but it is almost impossible to preserve them
from slug. The long-continued unseasonably
mild weather has been very favourable to their
movements, and has also induced au undesirable
early growth among Lettuces and other plants.
Those who have not sown some Lettuce seed in
a frame late in autumn may find that they have
an insufficiency of plants, especially should we
yet experience severe and, to the exposed and
now delicate Lettuces, probably destructive
frosts. We find plants reared thinly and
wintered in frames and kept freely ventilated—
and, therefore, sturdy and hardy—to be of the
greatest value for filling up blanks among
autumn-planted Lettuces on exposed borders as
well as at the foot of sunny walle. They aro
also serviceable for planting in the open among
rows of young Strawberry plants, dwarf early
Peas, or in a quarter devoted to Lettuces. In
either case they will form a good succession to
those in more sheltered spots, being usually fit
for use before the earliest, with one exception,
of those raised in spring. The exception is tho
Early Paris Market Cabbage Lettuce, a variety
which, in addition to being extremely quick-
growing, ateo hearts in splendidly, and is in
quality first-rate.

Preparing a seed bed.— Now ib a good
time to sow seed of this sort, and oIeo of the
black-seeded Brown Cos, or, if preferred, of any
good variety of Paris White Cos. A slight hot¬
bed should be formed, consisting of a well pre¬
pared mixture of leaves and stable manure ; or,
if the former cannot bo had, of manure alone.
On this place a single or two-light frame, and
this bed may also be utilised for rearing a few
early Cauliflowers, Brussels Sprouts, and Cab¬
bage plants. In order to bring the seedlings as
near the glass as possible, the frame should be
half filled with some of the shortest of the heat¬
ing material; on this place about 4 inches of
good and not very rough soil, and finish off
with another 2 inches of finer sifted light soil.

Sowing.— When the soil ia warmed through,
and the trial stick can be borne comfortably in
the hand, sow the seed thinly in properly
divided patches, and cover with a sprinkling of
sifted soil. If the soil is moist, which it should
be, no water will be required, neither then nor
later on, till the seedlings are past the critica
damping period. Weather permitting, give air
directly the seedlings are up and pull the lights
off on warm bright days, leaving a little air on
during warm nights, the aim being to keep the
plants as sturdy as possible. Protect the frame
during frosty nights. In the meantime another
Blight hotbed should have been prepared, on
this being *»tood one or more frames according
to circumstances, filling these somewhat simi-

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

518

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 20, 1884.

larly to the seed frames, only the soil should
be rather richer and less fine soil be placed on
the surface. On these beds, rows of the Paris
Market Lettuce may be pricked put about
3 inches apart each way, every alternate row
and every other plant in the reserved rows
being subsequently lifted with a good ball of
soil attached to the roots and transplanted to
the foot of any sheltered wall or on a warm
border, and disposing them about 6 inches apart
each way. The holes made by lifting these
plants to be filled up with a little good soil, and
the frames then kept rather close and well at¬
tended to in the shape of waterings when re¬
quired. Under such circumstances they grow
at a rapid rate, and with us result in some of
the best Lettuces we taste during the season.
They are appreciated by all who try them, and
are especially good in salads. Those at the foot
of the walls, if properly protected from slugs,
will be fit for use in time to maintain an
unbroken succession, and before many of the
autumn sown Lettuces are really fit for the salad
bowl. I ought, perhaps, to have stated that
we keep the seedlings rather close after being

S ricked and watered, but subsequently harden
lem off well, and choose mild weather for
planting them out. It is also advisable to pro¬
tect from late frosts or cutting winds with
branches of evergreens.

Substitute for a frame. —Where fewer are
grown and frames not plentiful, a good number
of Paris Market Lettuce plants may be raised in
an ordinary Pelargonium box, taking care to
remove them from a house or warm frame before
they become drawn or spoilt. Rows of plants
may be dibbled among the rows of other early
vegetables in frames, such as dwarf Peas,
Kidney Beans, or in the fronts of successional
and late Peach houses and orchard houses, or in
boxes of good soil, placed in vineries, and any
other somewhat similar positions that may
suggest themselves. They will stand gentle
forcing, providing a light position be assigned
them. Many plants might also be dibbled among
the rows of pricked out, spring-raised plants of
Cauliflowers, Sprouts, &c., in frames, all the
latter being eventually transplanted to the open
borders, and the frames given up to the Lettuces
for a short time. W. I. M.

NOTES ON FORCING VEGETABLES.

Asparajjus. — This can be had from December
till it is ready to cut from ordinary garden
beds, and the latter will yield a supply till
crops of Green Peas take the place of Asparagus,
which may be had continuously from six to
seven months by growing a sufficient number of
plants to lift for forcing. After beds have been
planted for a number of years some of the
plants will die ; then the beds become unprofit¬
able, and it seldom pays to renew them. When
only a few plants are required for forcing it is
a good plan to lift plants for that purpose, when
new beds should be made to take their place.
Where Asparagus is much wanted during
the season a regular system of culture is
carried out. As many new beds should be
made each spring as are required to be lifted
each season for forcing, and when once the
number of beds is established, a regular supply
can be had. Plants which have been growing
four years in well prepared beds will produce
fine strong heads. Plants three years old
are sometimes lifted for forcing, but except
they are well-grown plants, they will be
found to be unprofitable ; the heads come weak
and are only fit for soups. The roots may be
forced in several different structures, such as in
pits heated by means of hot-water pipes or
smoke flues, by keeping the soil in which the
roots are planted moist, as such pits have very
dry atmospheres if not well attended to with
water. Asparagus may also be forced with
equal success upon a bed of fermenting material,
placing an ordinary garden frame upon the bed
in question. If forced in a pit having bottom
heat, place a quantity of rough lumpy soil in
the bottom ; on this set the roots moderately
close together and shake some fine soil among
them, covering them to the depth of 2 inches or
3 inches. Water the whole well to settle the
Boil, then the lights may be put on, and a steady
moist temperature of about 60 degs. maintained.
Ordinary hotbeds composed of stable manure
and leaves also answer well for Asparagus.
They should be 4 f^ct hjgl^ at th^ j batik aud

ltlZ<

3 feet in front. Place the plants as in the pit
just described. After the heat declines to
60 degs. or 65 degs. a little ventilation should
be left at the back for the steam to escape. By
using fresh linings of hot manure round the bed
to keep up the temperature, two, and some¬
times three, successive sets of roots may be
forced before the bed loses its heat. Where
Asparagus is forced extensively the permanent
beds in the garden are covered with frames
heated sometimes with hot-water pipes under¬
neath the beds and sometimes with fermenting
material. A few roots may likewise be forced
in large pots or boxes placed in a vinery or
Peach house at work. In such a case, after the
tops are cut the roots are of no further use.

Rhubarb.— This is one of the easiest of vege¬
tables to force, which may be done in any struc¬
ture having a temperature ranging from 55 degs.
to 60 degs., or the stools may be covered in the
open air with lidded boxes 2 feet in height and
sufficiently wide to accommodate the crowns.
Rhubarb pots, too, are often used. They may
be bought at any pottery, and with care will
last for years. The easiest method of forcing
Rhubarb is to lift some strong stools and plant
them in large pots or boxes, and place them
under glass, or the stools may be set moderately
close together upon the ground, covering them
with soil 2 inches above the crowns. Then give
them a thorough soaking with water to settle
the soil amongst the roots. Afterwards, too,
when in active growth, they must be well
attended with water, or the stems will be tough
and stringy. Any structure will suit Rhubarb,

S rovided it has a warm, moist temperature. A
lushroom-house at work will be found a suitable
place for it, or underneath the stage of a forcing-
house, or vinery, or Peach house. A forcing
pit heated with hot water is, however, the best
place for it where required in large quantities
and of the very best quality. When forced in
the open garden underneath pots or boxes, a
heap of warm manure must be placed round
each box. Where not forced some long litter
placed over the crowns early in spring will
encourage early growth, when a few dishes may
be had before the general crop conies into use.

Seakale. —By means of a little forcing, this
may be had when other vegetables are scarce.
Where Seakale has been well cultivated during
summer, fine strong crowns, which will yield an
abundant supply of fine heads when forced, may
be obtained. They may either be forced on the
ground where they grow, or be lifted and forced
m some structure, having a temperature ranging
from 50 degs. to CO degs. When lifted in
autumn any roots not wanted when the first lot
is forced should be replanted and covered with
long litter or Bracken, in order to be in readi¬
ness for lifting and potting should frosty weather
set in. Put as many roots in each pot as it
will conveniently hold, running some fine soil in
amongst them up to the level of the crowns.
The whole should then receive a good soaking
of water. Place the pots thus filled if possible
under cover until required for forcing. Under
such conditions young rootlets will be formed,
and the plants when placed in the forcing
house will be found to start more freely
into growth than those exposed to the open air.
The plants in pots will require to be covered
with other pots of the same size inverted firmly
upon Moss put between the rims so as to
exclude all light; the hole in the bottom of the
empty pot must also be closed with a piece of
slate or tile or wet clay. If not in perfect dark¬
ness the Kale will have a greenish, or sometimes
a bronzy, colour, and therefore be worthless. Any
structure in which a sufficiently high tempera¬
ture is maintained will do for Seakale provided

E erfect darkness is secured. The soil must be
ept moderately moist; if allowed to get dry
the Kale will be tough and stringy. Seakale
succeeds well in a Mushroom house, or under¬
neath the stage of a forcing-house. We are
forcing some in pots very successful underneath
the stage of the Cattleya house, close to the pipes;
the roots have been in the pots since November,
and have needed but little heat. A vinery
at work or a Peach house also suits Seakale,
and later on it may be brought forward under¬
neath a greenhouse stage. 11 may also be forced
upon an ordinary hotbed, planting the roots in
soil 4 inches apart and covering them up to the
level of the crowns with soil. Make the frame
perfectly dark inside by shading it with some
thick material. When forced in the open

ground pots must be placed over the crowns
prepared for forcing, and they should be covered
with warm manure and leaves about 3 feet in
depth. See that too much heat is not generated,
for if that happens the Kale will get scalded
and be rendered useless. The roots that have
been forced in pots must be laid in some light
soil and covered over with dry litter until
spring, when they should be planted to come in
for another season’s forcing. A supply of forced
Kale may be had from December till it is fit to
cut from plants covered out-of doors.

W. C.

Root cuttings of Seakale v. seeds.—
The great demand for Seakale roots stiong
enough for forcing renders the work of propa¬
gating this highly-prized vegetable of great im¬
portance ; for, although some few still adhere
to the old plan of forcing the plants in permanent
beds by means of fermenting manure and leaves
placed over forcing pots, by far the greater
portion of Seakale roots is lifted and placed in
artificial heat elsewhere. In lifting the crowns,
therefore, every piece of the fleshy root should
be carefully extracted from the ground, for if
left they prove troublesome, and the beat way
of turning these extracted pieces to good account
is to cut them into lengths of 5 inches or 6 inches,
and place them in boxes of light soil in a cool
house or shed, where they will form crowns by
the middle of March. They may then be planted
out in rows 2 feet apart and 1 foot from plant to
plant. Young healthy roots, even though not
larger than a quill, make better plants than old
decayed ones that frequently rot together after
they have made some little progress. Seed
makes the healthiest plants for forming per¬
manent plantations, and if sown early on good
soil will furnish good crowns for producing late
crops the first year after sowing, but I find that
seedlings do not ripen off their growth so early
in autumn as cuttings, and are therefore not so
suitable for very early crops. Where a large
demand exists both methods should be practised,
for even the smallest plants raised from seed
will, if transplanted and set at good wide
intervals apart in open sunny positions, make
fine crowns for forcing after a second year’s
growth, as, the earlier good leaves can be got,
the earlier will the plants ripen their growth in
the autumn.—J.

Winter Cabbages. —Young Cabbages
which are seldom destroyed here by frost are
preferred to Savoys, Kale, or other winter
greens. Market gardens, and even allotments
at present, contain large breadths of tender
young Cabbages that look more like May than
December. The usual plan is to sow in June,
and get good strong plants by the time early
Potatoes are fit for lifting ; as fast as these are
cleared off the land is forked over and Cabbage
plants are put in about 18 inches apart, so that
when fully grown they touch one another, and
next to spring Cabbages these winter ones are
the most delioious vegetables grown. The sorts
in most request are the Early Battersea, Enfield
Market, and Early York. The plan of letting
the stumps of spring Cabbages stand for a crop
of sprouts is not practised so much as in large
private gardens, a rapid rotation of crops with
plenty of manure being the rule in market
gardens. The soil for early crops of Potatoes is
now being prepared by a liberal dressing of
town refuse, such as ashes and gritty material
collected by scavengers’ carts. The ground gets
a good deep ploughing, and is then allowed to
lie roughly until the sets are planted, which is
done by the plough. The latter leaves the soil
loose and friable, and when the crop is dug up,
which is done by means of steel forks, no further
preparation in order to produce a fine crop of
Cabbages is necessary.—J. G. G.

Mushroom spawn. —During some eight
years I was employed in a large garden contain¬
ing one of the largest Mushroom houses in the
kingdom, and the spawn was always received
from one source near London, where it was made,
and during the whole of the timo it proved
good, always producing fine crops. After I left
that neighbourhood I continued to procure my
spawn from the same quarter, and with equally
good results, till a few years ago, when I was
prevailed upon to give somebody else’s a trial,
and from that time for several years afterwards
I tried.spawn from various seedsmen—in all
cases with far less successful results in the shape

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

k

>5

M

******

Dec. 20, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

510

of crops than previously. This led to enquiries
on my part and explanations oil the part of the
seedsmen, and I was not a little surprised to
learn that these seedsmen actually bought their
stock of spawn from the same party near
London, who manufactured the bricks, and
whom I had originally dealt with myaeif.
Oae noted provincial seedsman imagined, I
daresay, he had fixed mo when he first told me
this; but knowing how much spawn was affected
by the conditions under which it was stored, I
determined to try a further experiment, and so
procured some spawn from my old source, and
some from the seedsman, and spawned one half
of the same bed with the one, and tho other
half with the other, with the result that
the seedsman's end waa a failure, while the
other end produood one of the finest crops I ever
had; and the other bods from the good spawn
all did well ton. At present, we nave grand
crops from the same spawn, and I need not say
I have returned to tho old source of my supply
and get spawn from no other. A3 to what
caused the ditference in the two articles—

—which figure he gives as tho maximum—I do
not wonder at them going ofT, aud they would
do tho same in a too low and damp temperature.
He should moisten tho bed where dry onlyuuder
such circumstances, and keep the temperature
of tho bed down to about 00 degs. \V.

CARNATIONS AND PICOTEE3.
Tiiouciii generations of florists have striven to
mould the Carnation and Picotee according to a
act model or standard of their own, they have
as yet failed, happily, to produce varieties of
either of these flowers that could be termed
counterparts of their ideal representations, such
as those which, until recently, have been set
forth as model Carnations and Picotees in book s ou
florists’ flowers. The annexed illustration is an
exact copy of a Picotee, such as waa common iu
books on floriculture some thirty or forty years
ago, and tho ideal of what florists consider a
Picotee should be, but somehow the flower
refuses to allow itself to be so dealt with. As
a contrast to the florist’s ideal flower, we give

flower beauty. After all, the great flower-
loving public is the beat judge in such matters,
and its opinion is decidedly averse to rigid
symmetry in outline, which is synonymous with
formality. Florists, we are, however, pleased
to observe, are now making concessions as
regards their conventional rules. At the last
Carnation show wo noticed that the absurd
circular paper collars put round Carnation
flowers on plants shown in pots were suppressed
—a great gain. Wo therefore do not despair
of seeing the abolition of the collars to blooms
shown in trays, and in time other improve¬
ments equally desirable.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

A PLANT that with a very moderate amount of
attention will be sure to give a good result in
the greenhouae is the Camellia. This delicato
and beautiful flower may bo brought to a very
high degree of perfection by the most simple
means. The Camellia does not require a high

The florist's ideal Picotee. Type of cut common in prarlcn books and
pci iodicala up to quitu recent times; on exact copy.

Picotee ah it is. Prawn in a nursery 1 1 London.

originally from the same place—I can only
surmise ; but I noticed that the bricks from the
makers were comparatively soft and brittle, and
those from the seedsman as hard as a board. Hard¬
ness is not a fault, however, except in so far as
it indicates exposure, and this, I nave a strong
conviction, was what killed the retailer’s
spawn ; for, on going into his shop one day, I
saw his store of cakes piled up behind tho
counter without protection of any kind, and
exposed to all the vicissitudes of temperature of
a cold shop in the wintor timo. It is treatment
of this kind which destroys Mushroom spawn.
It does not matter how old spawn may be,
provided it is kept dark, dry, and warm.
When perfectly dry, it remains in s' r'u quo ,
bat moisture and heat both set it running, and
it soon gets past the thread stage, when it
becomes useless for spawning beds. A corre¬
spondent asked tho other week what was the
reason his Mushrooms went of! as soon as they
appeared above the surface. He may guess it
is something in the top treatment that is the
cause, and I think if tJitf’Toroperatiire f)f_the
air in his MoilbyQom-hoi

r t/rtTtorqperature |>f the

an illustration of an average Picotee, such as
may be picked from a bed before it has been
tweezed and otherwise subjected to the cunning
manipulations which exhibitors of florists’
flowers consider indispensable in a model show
bloom. Florists, howover, deserve credit for
what they have done with regard to the
improvement of varions races of popular
garden flowers. They have given us indnite
variety both in tho way of size aud colour, but
in moat cases they have not improved tho
constitution of the races operated on, examples
of which rosy bo seen in what are called the
show Carnations and show Pelargoniums
Every flower that the florists have taken in
hand has been improved in some way or other,
and we have only to look at such modern races
of popular flowers as tuberous Begonias to sec
th« wide strides that can be made in this
direction iu a comparatively short time when
specialists devote their attention to particular
objects. The chief fault with which florists
can be charged is adhering to too formal a
standard, symmetrical shape nowadays not
being regarded as an essential element of true

i degree of heat; on the contrary, it succeeds
best in a oool house, being quite a hardy plant,
as many writers in gardening have testified.
The great secrets of success with the Camellia
is to encourage a free growth after the flowering
is over, either by removing the plants to a warm
house, or by shutting up ths greenhouse pretty
closely for about two months, giving abundance
of moisture, both at the roots and in the atmo¬
sphere surrounding the plants, and slight shade
from hot sun, maintaining at the same time as
nearly as possible a tomperaturo ranging from
GO dega. or 05 degs., to 70 degs. or 80 degs.
This is the only time whoa any amount of arti-
I fieial heat is required, and at the season when
! growth is being made—viz., daring May and
June, by careful attention to economising the
1 heat of tho sun, very little fire heat is requisite.
When the growth is completed, and the tiny
buds ju*t visible, give more air, and by degrees
accustom the plants to free exposure by night
and day in about a month Later.

, In towns it is not at all advisable to expose
tho plants to the upon mir, as is often success¬
fully done in country gardens. They are better

URB ANA-CHAMPAIGN

520

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 20, 1884

kept under glass all the year round, and if they
must be turned out for a little while, should
certainly be placed under protection again not
later than the middle of September, as the cold
rains we frequently get in autumn do them
more harm than anything. During winter, keep
cool and airy, never either very dry or very wet
at the root. When the buds commence to
swell up for flowering, great care should be
taken that the plants never want for water, and
a little weak liquid manure or soot water will
assist the buds to swell, and also encourage sub¬
sequent growth, but this must be cautiously
applied, or it may do more harm than good.
Any potting required is best done just as the
growth after flowering is commencing ; nothing
but the best peat, with a little loam and sand,
must be used ; ample drainage must be provided,
and the soil rammed evenly and firmly all round
the old ball. These points attended to, and the
leaves of the plants kept clean by frequent
sponging, and success is certain.

Another extremely useful and elegant plant,
far too seldom seen, is the Epacris. It is of
very easy culture and flowers freely, even in
town air, just when flowers are most wanted,
and most scarce— i.e., during December and
January. Good healthy plants should be
purchased, established in 5-inch or 6-inch pots,
in which size they will bloom freely the first
year, and if annually repotted into a pot one size
larger, encouraged to start into a strong growth
about April, and well hardened towards autumn,
taking care that the soil is never allowed to
become either very wet or very dry, abundance
of the long heath like blossoms are sure to be
produced. No plant lasts longer in bloom, or
stands better when cut and carried about, than
the Epacris. The colours range from pure
white to rich crimson, and at least a few
plants should be found in every town green¬
house.

Bbdding plants. —Nothing is so injurious to
bedding plants at the present season as damp ;
every possible care, therefore, must be taken to
prevent drip from the roofs of such houses or
pits which may contain them. All dead and
decaying leaves, &c., must be removed whenever
necessary, and every opportunity taken which
the state of the weather may afford to admit
fresh air, to render the plants as hardy as
possible. Cannas, Dahlias, and other plants
that are being wintered in cool sheds or cellars
should be occasionally examined as to their safety
in respect of frost or of rotting through damp.
As a rule all roots winter safely if the tempera¬
ture does not fall below the freezing point, and
as to injury from damp, there never need be any
danger of this if the plants are well packed in
dry leaf-soil or Cocoa fibre. Of course no water
should ever be given them ; the only source to
generate damp would then be the decaying
stems, and these should be removed as soon as
perceived. Any varieties of Dahlias that it is
intended to propagate in quantity may now be

S otted and started in gentle heat for the pro-
uction of cuttings. The single varieties have
lately become so popular that all should have a
few. The named kinds, to be true, must of
course be raised from cuttings, but a fine show
of them may be had next summer from seeds if
sown any time between this and the end of
February. Seeds of slow-growing succulents
should be sown at once, as also should the fol¬
lowing, which make good sub-tropicals—Arundo
conspicua, Cannas, Erythrina Crista-galli, and
Grevillea robusta.

Violets. —Where a continuous supply of
these is wanted through the winter, the stock
for the purpose requires to be differently treated.
Where plenty of leaves are at hand so as to make
up beds that will give a little heat to stimulate
root action, and to throw off enough top-warmth
to keep the frames placed over the plants at a
genial warmth, there are few better devices by
which these sweet-scented flowers can be had, as
under such conditions they usually succeed well.
Beds of this description, not made too strong
(if too great a body of leaves is used they become
over-hot), should be put together at intervals,
putting on a few inches of soil, upon which stand
the plants, which ought to be taken up with
good balls, having as many of their roots intact
as possible, placing them as close as the clumps
will stand, filling in the interstices with a little
loose soil, after whipl^ water moderately, and
give air daily proportionate w:th thje warmth in
the bed and the coo flitif t^cf th; WjJtter.

Flower Garden.

General work.— Though at this season
there is little or no work of a pressing character
to be done, it should be remembered that a
busy time is comiDg ; prospectively, therefore,
every operation that can now be performed
should be done, by way of relieving the pressure
of duties in spring. Trenching, digging, and
draining can, of course, be done whenever the
weather is open, and so can the planting of shrubs
and trees in all but the most plastic soils, and
when such work as this, through stress of
weather, has to be postponed, there is the
mending of coach roads or walks, the digging
and carting of gravel, manure, soils, not to
mention the clearing out of shrubberies, lopping
of irregular and dead branches from trees,
clipping hedges, and trimming into form all
shrubs that are required to develop evenness of
outline. Only by thus seeking out, as it were,
all such jobs, and doing them at this compara¬
tively leisure period of the year, can we hope to
keep pace with the work at the busy season.
The preservation of neatness by rolling and
sweeping both turf and walks is about the only
routine duty at the present time,but on the due
performance of which, it need hardly be added,
depends so much the real enjoyment of a garden.
Get, as soon as possible, some manure prepared,
ready to be applied to the flower beds and
borders, as soon as the spring-flowering plants
and bulbs are removed. The exhibitor of
florists’ flowers will have plenty to do in pre¬
paring his stands and boxes in which the stands
or trays are conveyed to the exhibition ; they
may bo painted and varnished, stowing them
away when dry where they can be kept free
from dust Labels may be madeand painted. Some
persons like to write on dry paint, but wet is
best, and the labels may be painted a second
time before they are used. Sticks may also be
prepared of various lengths and thicknesses ;
paint them green, and then dry them and tie
them up in bundles ready for use. Pegs for
layering Carnations and Picotees may also be
cut out of any branches that may be most
convenient. Beech and Hornbeam are amongst
the best for this purpose.

Fruit.

Vines. —By this time the buds in the early
house will be sufficiently forward to admit of a
slight advance in the day temperature, but no
alteration must bo made by night until we have
more genial forcing weather. Follow up the
daily syringing until the bunches arc well
advanced and all the buds are fairly on the
move, but avoid constant saturation of the spurs
at this dead season, as too much moisture often
induces weak, elongated growths and loose,
straggling bunches, which rarely set properly or
colour well, while a light, buoyant atmosphere,
with a gentle circulation of air and moisture in
moderation, lead to the development of stout,
leathery foliage, capable of laying up plenty of
colouring matter, so essential to the perfect
finish of early forced Grapes. If the inside
borders have not been watered since the house
was closed, another nice watering with diluted
liquid at the maximum temperature of the house
may be given, and the borders may be well
mulched with fresh short horse manure, which
will exhale ammonia when gleams of sunshine
raise the temperature of the house. External
borders hitherto covered with Ferns, litter,
sheets, or shutters, may now advantageously
receive a good covering of moderately dry
fermenting leaves, which will set the surface
roots in action and draw them into the autumn
surfacing of turf and bones ready for the per¬
formance of their work when the stoning and
colouring processes draw so heavily upon the
vines. 4

Late vineries.— Muscats, Alicantes, and
other Grapes will now require cutting, as they
will keep better in the Grape room than on the
vines. When the vines are cleared get them
pruned and cleansed; dress the cuts with
styptic, and throw the ventilators open in suit¬
able weather to give them a month’s rest before
growth is again excited. If the internal borders
are not satisfactory immediately after the Grapes
are cut is the time, and the only time, to get
them put right. Years ago many people were
afraid of disturbing the roots of vines, but it is
now well known that external or internal
borders may be taken out alternately, and every
particle of the old soil may be replaced with

new, not only without endangering the suc¬
ceeding crop, but with the certainty that it will
be greatly improved. Lady Downes, Mrs.
Pince, and that excellent Grape, Black Morocco,
are keeping unusually well, but they had a
liberal share of fire-heat early in the spring, and
they will hang for any reasonable length of
time without shrivelling. If the vines are not
already clear of foliage all the leaves will be ripe
enough for removal, and the Grapes will be in a
fit condition for cutting and bottling by the end
of the month. When cutting Grapes for keep¬
ing, always remove every doubtful berry, as the
smallest spot is Bure to end in decay. Choose a
bright, dry day for bottling ; never cut away
any of the w r ood beyond the bunch without
applying styptic, and avoid disturbance of the
berries in the removal of the bunches to the
Grape room.

Raspberries. —These should be planted ; for
this fruit the ground should be well enriched by
digging into it a good dressing of manure pre¬
vious to planting ; existing plantations of this
fruit should be pruned and tied, and, where
Btakes are used, renew such as are decayed ; few
crops more require or will better repay fora liberal
use of manure than Raspberries. Even old plan¬
tations of them that have become weak can
frequently be brought round by enriching the
ground and otherwise bestowing on them
judicious cultivation. One of the principal
things to be observed in the case of the Rasp¬
berry is never to use a spade amongst them;
the greater portion of the roots lie near the
surface, and if the spade be employed in digging,
quantities of them necessarily get injured ; even
fork culture should not be too deep. In order
to avoid such pressure of work in spring, let all
manure and soil wheeling be finished, stakes cut
and pointed, labels made, and trees that require
it re-labelled. Nails can be cleaned, shreds cut,
bunches of matting for tying, and small twigs
for laying in the new shoots of wall trees—
these, together with other jobs that will suggest
themselves, may all now be done by way of
forwarding operations when the busy time
arrives. When the air is dry and free from
frost, open the fruit-room ventilators for an
hour each day. All decayed fruit should be
removed forthwith, and it may be worth while
to wipe over the finer Pears with a dry cloth, in
order to ensure their better preservation.
Easter Beurr6 and Ne Plus Meuris, two kinds
of Pears on which we depend for supplies in
January and February, are sometimes so specky
and subject to mould that without thus drying
they would fail to keep at all.

Vegetables.

If Globe Artichokes are not yet protected,
lose no time in doing it. When frosted they may
live, but the stems will be weak and the Arti¬
chokes small; in f&ct, they are useless. Wo
are cutting from under a few leaves very fine
heads of Snow’s Broccoli, not large, but close
and white, a vegetable that is in high repute
here. Outside Lettuces, covered with the same
material, are now green, fresh, and delicious.
Of Black-seeded Brown Cos, the king of all
hardy Lettuces I know of, we cut a constant
supply outside, and have done so for many years
past. The time is now at hand when leaves and
manure must be put together for frame Potatoes,
Radishes, early seeds of Lettuce, Cauliflower,
&c. No labour is lost in having the heating
material well looked after ; when the beds are
made tread them firmly, and think you are
making Mushroom beds. To build up manure
beds from 3 feet to 4 feet, and set frames on
them, is not only a waste of time in building,
but a positive disadvantage to the inmates.
The right plan is to dig out pits the size of the
frame, 2 feet or 3 feet deep, aDd fill them a foot
or so above the pit, to which they will sink
level ; every bit of heat is then utilised. Any
kind of light soil enriched with manure will
grow Potatoes well; but for Carrots and small
seeds I use refuse from under the potting
benches, mixing sand and mud scrapings w ith it.
Of Potatoes, we use the true Myatt’s and
Wilson’s frame ; the latter, a new kind, I shall
try this season. Early Scarlet and Shorthorn
Carrots are among the best forcers. Do not be
caught napping in not having a good supply of
what are called little things, such as green
Mint, Tarragon, Mustard and Cress. In the
case of Celery here, as elsewhere, Bracken is
brought into use; it is so Tight and feathery
that it makes the be*t of all protectors.

Dec. 20, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

621

WINDFLOWERS.

The genus Anemone has a great future. Even
at present its popularity is only a little less
than that of Roses and Daffodils ; but when we
trust to seeds as a means of reproducing the
best of Windflowers instead of buying dried
roots from the shops, then, and then only, will
“ooy Anemone” become a garden queen.
A. coronaria, if treated as an annual, furnishes
glowing blossoms from October until June, after
which A. dichotoma and A. japonica in all its
forms—white and rosy—carry on the supply and
complete the cycle of a year's blossoming. By
sowinggood newly-saved
seed in succession from
February until May in
prepared beds out of-
doors the common Crown
Aoemone may in many
sunny, sheltered gardens
be had in bloom all the
year round. This is
saying a great deal, but
it is true ; indeed, it is
questionable if we have
any other popular gar¬
den flower which is at
once so showy, so hardy,
and so continuous in its
blossoming. A fiiend
beside me says : “ Ah !
but what of Violas ?’*

To which I reply:

“ Grow both in quantity
since both are as variable
as they are beautiful.”

But when Viola shrinks
in foggy November from
the frost demon, Ane¬
mone rises Phcenix-like
responsive to the first
ray of sunshine. Besides,
fair Viola, richly as she
dresses in velvet purple
or in golden sheen, has
not yet donned that
vivid scarlet robe
which Qneen Anemone
weareth, nor are the
wrappers of celestial
azure so pare ; and blue
is, as we all know, the
highest note of colouring
in floral music. But
comparisons are not re¬
quired. Anemones are
variable and beautiful
enough to be grown for
themselves alone. No
matter whether we look
at a waving mass of
sparkling Windflowers
in a vineyard or corn¬
field by the Mediter¬
ranean, or walk knee-
deep among the silvery
stars of A. uemoroea in
an English wood—“sil¬
very stars in a sea of
Bluebells w —they alike
are satisfying. 1 believe
that there is any amount
of raw material in the
genus Anemone—hardi¬
hood, good form and
habit, aud colouring
alike delicate and bril¬
liant, and what we now
want is that amateurs
should grow them with
the attention aud care
that have been lavished
upon Roses and Lilies

and Daffodils. But, alas 1 we have some capri¬
cious beauties in this group. A. coronaria aud
some other species succeed well treated as seed¬
ling hardy annuals, and others, as A. apennina,
A. Robinsoni, A. Pulsatilla, A. dichotoma, and
A. japonica, may be multiplied ad infinitum by
cuttings of the root. It is when we come to the
aristocratic alpine forms, to A. alpina, A. sul-
phurea, A. narcissiflora, Ac., that difficulties
alike of propagation and of culture test our skill
to the uttermost. Tourists fond of gardens
walk over these plants in bloom every year;
they dig up roots aud send them home ; but they
are as yet very rare in ev^nt^j^rt i ft^ild^ns.

Nor is it easy to rear them from seeds. A year
ago I sowed seed by the ounce, each of A. alpina
and of A. sulphurea, but as yet not a single
plantlet has rewarded ine for my trouble. Even
freshly gathered seeds of A. narcissiflora w ill
not germinate with me, but I live in hopes of
surmounting little difficulties of this kind, and
in the meantime, perhaps, others more fortunate
will tell us how to amend our unsuccessful ways.
One of the prettiest species which is now in
flower in our gardens is the pure white A. dicho¬
toma, which carries on the succession after the
Snowdrop Anemone (A. sylvestris) has passed
away. Then we have dreams and lend willing

Flowers of Anemone decapctala (natural size).

cars to the oral traditions of Anemone alba. Is
this specieB in cultivation, or where may a
figure of it be seen ? It is said to be of neat
habit, 12 inches high, with erect, saucer-shaped,
white blossoms 3 inches in diameter. The species
we now figure is well worth a place, being easily
raised from seeds. It is called Anemone
decapetala, and if not by any means a showy
species, tufts of it three years from seed have
this season been very pretty. It grows less than
a foot in height, and bears pale creamy yellow
flowers the size of a shilling on branched flower¬
ing stems ; each blossom has eight or nine sepals
around a yellowish green centre, Some of our

clumps had from a dozen to twenty flowers open
at the same time, and the general effect in the
early morning sunshine is a very pretty one.
We have another species similar in habit which
is just now a mass of rosy buds, and if you blow
open its sepals, they are of a bright magenta
colour inside, but 1 Dever yet saw a flower open
naturally on this plant. .Tust as the sepals open
at the tips, and you think they are about to
expand, they shrivel and fall away, leaving a
tuft of greenish yellow stamens in the centre.
Is it A. Hudsoni? Another species not often
seen, but well worth culture, is A. ccerulea, a
kind with finely-cut leaves and purplish blue
flowers. Then A. coro¬
naria, The Bride, a pure
creamy white kind,
with flowers 3 inches
across, raised by Van
Velaen, of Haarlem, is
really a good addition to
these dainty blossoms,
and affords a vivid con¬
trast to the fiery A.
fulgens. I have this
year received some roots
of Anemones, Iris, and
other hardy flowersfrom
the site of ancient Troy,
and trust that some of
these, if not new, will be
beautiful additions to
our gardens. The true
A. vitifolia from North¬
ern India does well in
mild localities ; but best
of all of this perennial
large-leaved race is A.
japonica alba, the queen
of all autumnal kinds,
rivalling the best of all
hardy border flowers in
purity and freedom of
blossoming. Taken as
a class, Windflowers are
so beautiful that we
caunot grow them too
plentifully, and but few
other genera will so well
repay cultural attention
at all seasons.

' W. B.

A NATURAL BOG
GARDEN.

Allow me to say a few
words about a genuine
bog which we have in
this parish. Let it be
remembered that we
are in the midst of the
chalk formation, joining
on to the Wealden clay,
and I think it will be
generally admitted that
a more unlikely spot to
find a bog it would be
diflicult to think of; yet
we have one as pure and
unsophisticated as if it
were in the Highlands
of Scotland or the mid¬
land countiesof Ireland;
but I am bound to say
that it exists in a very
large and deep s&nd for¬
mation, which is all
around it for some dis¬
tance. It is not large
in extent—a few acres,
perhaps—but it has con¬
trived to gather into it
a large number of pure
bog plants, such as the Sundew (Droaera rotun-
difolia), the Cotton Grass (Eriophornm), the
Bog Bean (Menyanthes trifoliata), the Bog
Asphodel (Narthecinm oasifragum), the Bog
Pimpernel (Anagallis tenella), the St. John's
Wort (Hypericum elodes). The bog itself is
composed of peat earth, while these plants grow
mostly in Spnagnum, bnt underneath is a con¬
stant supply of water produced by springs, which
flow very gently, but at any rate keep it free
from stagnation. So abundant are some of these
plants, that at one season the place is quite red
with the curimia fottage of the Drcwera, while
other parts are fail of the feathery Cotton Grass,

U R B A N A - C H A MPA16 N

522

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 20, 1884.

Two things suggest themselves : First, how did
this bog get there ? Is it the remains of some large
formation which has receded before the increase
of drainage, &c. ? Second, how very difficult it is
to arrive at these conditions in the formation of
a bog garden ; and that there is this difficulty I
am justified in saying, from the failure that I
have so often seen where the attempt has been
m*de. Apparently what is required is a loose,
mossy, shaking kind of (soil one can hardly call
it) bed, whore the plants can get sufficient soil
and yet be continually in gently moving water ;
where there are natural springs or gently flow¬
ing rivulets it may not bo difficult, but in other
places it must be extremely so. I was, there¬
fore, not disappointed when visiting Kcw lately
to see that the bog in the new herbaceous
garden was not in a very flourishing con¬
dition, nor when visiting some of my friends
who are ardent lovers of herbaceous plants, to
find that the bog garden is either conspicuous
by its absence or elee in anything but a flourish¬
ing condition.

I could uot possibly attempt bog gardening
in my own little place. I have one moist spot in
my rockery and here I manage to crowd into it
some plants such as the American Lady’s Slipper
(Cypripedium spectabile), which does very well,
and a few other things, but to attempt a bog
garden would involve a loss of time, money,
and temper, which I cannot afford; but none
the less can I see the difficulties and, it may be,
the mistakes connected with the attempts (one
I have already alluded to); then there is a
mistake which I have generally seen, and from
which Kew is not exempt—bogs are too often
placed in low, sheltered, and shady parts of the
garden; but let anyone call to mind the spots
where he has seen a bog mo3t flourishing, where
it has been all aglow with the Drosera or waving
acres of the silky Cotton Grass, and he will
not need to be reminded that it was in the
full blaze of sunlight; no trees near, no rocks
or stones under which the plants might nestle,
but all fully exposed both to wind and rain. Why
this is not imitated I do not think it difficult
to explain. Were thero not a perennial supply
of water underneath, these bogs would soon
become (as one sees sometimes) dried up, and
it is this perennial underground moisture that
it is so difficult to imitate ; therefore let us put
the bog, is the reasoning adopted, where it will
not be so much exposed to the sun and will not
so soon dry up. And this is done with, as I
have said, sad loss to the well-being of the
plants.

I may b9 referred, perhaps, to some better
instances of bog gardens than I know of,
but it must be recollected that such are only
secured where a long purse can supply losses to
any extent, and so make the bog garden appear
what it is not, for where plants are constantly
supplied from other sources the merit is not to
the owner, but to his means. Very rarely
have I seen, for instance, plants of Pinguicula
which have stood for three or four years. I
have very often seen them where thoy have
been just planted looking well, and more often
where they have been vanishing away after a
second year’s trial.

It may be that I am only writing from a
partial knowledge, and that many may be able
' to say they have succeeded with their bogs
and bog plants. I shall be glad to know that
I am wrong, and to find success has attended
the efforts of others in cultivating a most inte¬
resting class of plants. D.

Belgian hares.—I bought a pair of these,
with four young, four months old. I noticed
they ate all hefore them, and still kept very
thin. They died one after another, except one
—a buck. I opened the last, and found between
the skin and around the heart full of water. If
I go on breeding from the same pair will the
result bo the same? They are not related.
Any information upon breeding, keeping, and
feeding will be received with thanks.— Inex¬
perienced.

Stone edglng-s.— I am delighted to sea stone edgings
recently advocated in Oardkniko. I have had them laid
for nearly six yea s, and since the original planting, with
Mossy Saxifrage and London Pride, the only care they
have needed has been a clean cut through with the
spade when encroaching on the beds. Crocus and Nar¬
cissus look lovely showing above the gre n cushions of tho
Saxifrage, and cluiru® 7>f rod Daisies Aid Primroses of

kinds add very mucl

nu* Trf rod Daisies Aid Pr
J|to Lhu ]W( c * pit < d ^ihg,

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 507 .)

The Potato.

I remember the time when the disease was so
virulent that the minds of men were in a state
of agitation from doubts and fears as to the
possibility of continuing its cultivation ; but
that feeling has disappeared, and of late years
the cultivation of tho Potato has increased
enormously. In the largo Potato-growing dis¬
tricts the disease does not now cause so much
alarm as was formerly the case, chiefly because
the cultivators have learnt that, to a consider¬
able extent, the result is in their own hands.
At tho time when the savant and scientist were
both at their wits’ ends, the practical culti¬
vator, nothing daunted by the sayings of the
wise men and the learned talk about tho
Peronospora and the resting spores, set to work
to raise new varieties possessing greater vigour
of constitution, wisely considering that if the
enemy to be faced was a fungu3, to increase the
strength and vigour of the plant was the best
remedy—not by an excessive application of
manures, which would encourage a plethoric
habit, and render the plant moro suseeptiblo,
but by planting thinner, to encourage robustness
of stem and to strengthen its fibres by free
admission to light and air. During the last ten
years, in addition to the attention which has
been given to robustness of constitution, as
exemplified in such kinds as Champion and
Magnum Bonum, a more rational system of
culture has been adopted ; the plants have had
more room to grow, and a freer exposure to
sunshine and air has given the plant a greater
power of resistance to its enemies. Then, again,
the seed Potatoes have been treated in a more
rational manner. It is true that many of the
choice old kinds of Potatoes have nearly dis¬
appeared ; but no matter—Potatoes of excellent
quality can be bought in my neighbourhood at
the time of writing lor less than £2 per ton, or
about sixpence per atone.

Preparing the Ground.

The best land for Potatoes is a deep, dry,
saudy loam. If they must bo planted on cold,
damp clays, have the surface thrown into
ridges, and plant one row on the crown of each
ridge. They should be about 5 feet apart.
More Potatoes will be produced in this way
than if they are planted on the level at half the
distances apart, and there may be a row of
Cabbages or some other crop grown between.
A friend of mine sow3 a row of Turnips between
each two rows of Potatoes. It is especially
necessary that the ground should be thoroughly
prepared for Potatoes by'exposure to the atmo¬
sphere in winter. Land roughly trenched
or ridged up in December or January
is in good condition for planting the last
half of March and the first half of
April. Heavy land may be manured at the
time it is turned up, but the manure for
light land should be worked into a compost by
mixing earth and any other manurial substance
with it, to increase its bulk, and fix the ammonia
which is commonly evolved in fermentation.
This compost may be placed in the drills at
planting time with the Potato seto. I like to
sprinkle the compost over and between the sets,
as then I think the Potatoes get all that is to
be got out of it. There is no doubt that
Potatoes are gross feeders, and if we could
ensure dry seasons in July and August they
would utilise profitably very liberal dressings of
manure, but for producing Potatoea of good
quality the compost I have recommended is
better than richer manures. In Potato growing
districts, even where the land is in good condi¬
tion, artificial manures are largely used. It is
not easy to say

Which are the Best Manures
For Potatoes on all soils, but experience points
to phosphates as being the be«t and the most
profitable to use. Probably on poor soils guano
or manures rich in ammoniacal salts will be
better, or a mixture of the two ; at any rate,
the land must bo iu good condition if 5 cwt. of
phospbatic manures peracre cannot be profitably
used. The next question is, when should the
manure be applied ? In field culture it is gene¬
rally given at tho time of planting, scattering it
along the drills and covering it in with the
plough with the Potatoes ; but in gardens the

manure may with advantage be given at two
periods, viz., one at plantiug time, scattered
along the drills, and the other, half scattered
between tho rows, just before moulding up.

Preparing the Seeds.

This question has assumed a wider significance
of late years ; formerly it was thought anything
would do to plant, and this carelessness aboutthe
seed Potatoes doubtless had something to do
with that deterioration which opened the way
for the attack of the Peronospora, which created
such a panic throughout the land. The seed
Potatoes should be selected at lifting time, and
be spread on the floor in an open shed or some
airy building. Here they lie till the skin gets
set and hard, then they should be packed in
shallow boxes and be placed one above the other
in a building where air and light can enter
freely when not freezing, but where the means
exist of keeping out frost. The early kinds
may be placed in single layers crown upwards
in shallow boxes or trays, and be placed under
the stage in the greenhouse; or the orchard
house is an excellent situation for them if the
frost is kept out. In such a light, airy situa¬
tion the central eye in the crown soon takes the
lead, and when planted out only one stem
appears, and such plants come in earlier, and
the crop is more even in size. Early Potatoes,
at any rate, should never have more thau one
stem, and the plan of starting them in a light
place where the smallest possible amount of
growth can take place by the encouragement
given to the central eye conduces to that end. But
the system that is good for early crops is also
good for others, so far, at least, as regards the
management of the seed, if more care is taken
in the selection of the seed and in keeping it
afterwards in a light place where no undue
crowding or heating can take place, for it
should be borne in mind that the cause of
Potatoes growing so much when laid in great
heaps in the field or iu store is from their heat¬
ing, causing the buds or eyes to start. If they
were laid thinly on a shelf or floor they would not
grow to any injurious extent. If they must be
kept in bulk in buildings, from the space being
limited and the quantity grown large, they
should be frequently turned over. If the seed
Potatoes in winter could be turned over once a
week or ten days it would prevent those long
chits or sprouts breaking out. All vegetable
substances when laid in large heaps generate
warmth, and Potatoes are no exception to this
rule, and this is the reason why Potatoes laid
in large heaps grow more than when laid in a
thin layer. And when these heaps are turned
over, the continuity of condition so necessary
for growth to take place seema to be snapped ;
and if this disturbance is effected at frequent
intervals, the growth will not be very much in
excess of requirements. It is quite certain that
when the substance of the Potato is uselessly
employed in producing growth which cannot
be utilised, the stamina of the plant which is
finally emitted from the tuber must be weak¬
ened thereby, and not only will the crop suffer,
but the stock which is constantly treated in
this way must deteriorate and become more
susceptible to the attack of any parasitical
pests which may be floating about in the atmo¬
sphere seeking for something suitable to settle
upon. The question as to which are best.

Whole or Cut Sets,

Has often been discussed, and it is one exceed¬
ingly difficult to decide, for when one by a long
series of experiments has come to the conclusion
that such and such conditions or kinds are beet,
something occurs which shatters our beautiful
theory to pieces. Like many others, 1 have
bought new Potatoes in single pounds, have cut
them up in single eyes, and planted them with
varying results, but generally of a very satis¬
factory character, and in dealing with very
choice new kinds the single eye system is
excellent. That it will give the best result
from a given quantity of seed is certain, but
will it do so in ordinary culture against well-
selected seed ? In a general way, of course, the
selected seed uncut would beat all comers ; but
I have had very good recults from single eyes
cut from very large Potatoes, it is, of course,
a well-known fact that the eye in the centre of
the crown is the mpst prolific eye in the tuber,
no matter how large the tuber may be. There
■ in that central eye is conce ntrated the greatest
amount of the plant’s growing force. The other

URBANA-CHAPPAIgN

1>bc. 20, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLVSIRATED

523

eyas will all, or nearly all, grow when cut out
separately and planted, but they will not pro¬
duce so heavy a crop as the central eye will.
Sotne people, in order to give this central eye a
bitter chance, and to remove all competition, cut
iway,*, a few days before planting, the other
eyes which are prominent and likely to be the
greatest competitors, if all were left. I have a
triend—a large Potato grower—who always
tonteads that the larger the Potato sets the
better, bat he says a largo set should be allowed
sore room to grow than a smaller one. After
tia Potatoes come up, I have often, when a
Urge number of stems spring away from one
s&, had them thinned with manifest advantage
by pulling the weakly stems away, leaving two
or,at the most, three to furnish the growth to the
plant. I am convinced that a great cluster of
many stems is au evil—though it may probably
lead to an increase in the number of tubers, it
will not give balk of marketable ware. On the
whole, the best results seemed to be obtained
from moderate-sized whole sets, and, if any are
cut, the severance should be made straight
through the cluster of crown eye3, so that
each may possess one or more of them. The
catting of the seed when cut Potatoes are
planted should take place three or four days
before the planting, and some people take the
precaution to apply a dusting of quicklime a3 a
stypic.

Change of Seed.

There are some, I believe, who doubt the
valae of this, but the evidence which has come
under my notice, where seed from Scotland has
been largely used, forces me to draw the conclu¬
sion that a change of seed, especially from a high
latitude to a lower one, is exceedingly bene¬
ficial as regards the quantity and quality of
the crop for two or three years, and then the
influence becomes lass and less, until it is
altogether lost, showing that the seed should
ba changed every two or three years to obtain
the fall benefit. I know growers in the Feus
who annually import a portion of their seed
Potatoes from Scotland, and find it answers
their purpose to do so. All changes may not be
bo beneficial as this. I can quite understand
that some changes may not bs of advantage.
To be useful the change must be of a radical
nature. The conditions under which the seed
has been grown must be of quite au opposite
character to the place they are brought to. I
grant where great care is given to the selection
and keeping of the seed, and, where the stock
has reached a high pitch of excellence, to
exchange such seed for stock of an inferior
description will be going backwards—not for¬
wards ; but I do not think this is any argument
against a change of seed generally.

When and How to Plant.

If th8 Potato were not so susceptible to frost
the tirns and manner of planting would have

less importance. In the early border, where
the soil is warm and dry, the old Ashtop and
Veitch’a Ashtop may be planted about the first
week in February, or as early in the month as
the weather is suitable. On dry warm soils, as
regards the early crop, I have had a fair amount
of success from planting in November, burying
the sets 6 inches deep. It simply amounts to
this. I think there is less waste going on when
the tubers are in the ground than if exposed to
the air, even if the central eye is pushing steadily
onwards, and as soon as the earth closes around
them they begin to make roots ; and though

I hey may not appear above ground earlier
ban if planted in February they have
greater hold of the soil, and are con-
aquently the better prepared for any vicis-
itudes of temperature, &c., which may
ssail them. As regards the general crop,
here are few places in such a favourable con-
ition as the early border for autumn planting,
nd it is only under favourable circumstances
bat autumn planting will succeed, besides, even
it were always a success, it is a question if it
rould ba always desirable. When the Potatoes
■e planted in spring the early crops may be
eared off, and the land planted with some-
ling else in autumn ; but with autumn plant-
Lg, instead of the land being occupied some six
LDnths or so, at least nine months would be
Inken up with the Potato crop, and the advan¬
ces in favour of autumu planting must be
«sry marked before it will pay to give up the
tad for so long a period. Except in the chse
i the very early crop, Marfc ittfulf »es v dp3bli?

for planting. In cold, late districts the first
half of April will be early enough to plant the
maia crop. The best way to plant Potatoes is
to draw drills 4 inches deep, and lay the sets
12 inches apart along the bottom, scattering the
compost over them, and then cover with a hoe.
The best implement for drawing drills is a long-
bladed hoe, fashioned like a carpenter’s adze,
and about the same length in the blade. The
easiest and quickest way to plant Potatoes i3 to
use the dibble ; but the plan has no other re
i commendation, and it can only be employed
when the land is in good heart, and does not
require manuring. I have left the question of
the distance between the rows open, feeling that
no hard or fast line should ba laid down ; but
none cf the main crop Potatoes should be less
than 3 feet apart, and such large-topped kinds
as Reading Hero should have 4 feet.

Spring and Summer Culture.

When the tops of the Potatoes make their
appearance, take the fork and loosen up the
soil between the rows. This is specially neces¬
sary on heavy land : on light land a deep hoe¬
ing will do ; but a free and deep stirring of the
soil between the rows is very beneficial, and
should be repeated at least once before earth¬
ing up, and this operation should take place
before the Potatoes begin to run. A good deal
has been written lately about the Jensen
system of culture, and though I believe—iudamp
soils especially, and in rainy districts—drawing
up a good sharp ridge of soil is very beneficial,
there is no great novelty in it, and the cost of
labour, if the work had to be followed up per¬
sistently, would destroy all chances of profit.
Tho conclusion I have come to is that the
Jensen system will never have much influence
upon Potato culture iu this country. If the
stems are too numerous, when they are 5 or
6 inches high the weakly ones may easily be
drawn out, and if there is any evidence of
weakness just before earthing-up scatter a little
artificial manure by the side of the rows. This
is best done in damp weather. In the Fen dis¬
tricts very large quantities per acre are some¬
times used on the Potato land.

Lifting and Storing.

In garden culture there is an advantage in
growing early and second early kinds only, as
then the greater part of the crops may be lifted
before the disease makes its appearance. As
soon as the skins are set the crops may be lifted
and pitted if there is no cellar or other building
to stow them in. There is no better way of
keeping the Potatoes intended for use than
placing them in pits or ridges on some elevated
site, not laying too many in a heap, and placing
plenty of earth over them for the double pur¬
pose of keeping out frost and heat.

Best Kinds to Grow.

In the present day Potatoes are grown for
two separate and distinct objects—viz., for table
use and for exhibition. Taking a broad view of
the case it is certainly more important that the
quality of the Potato should be considered
before its appearance, though in some cases we
get beauty and quality combined. The School¬
master, for instance, is good all round. As
regards Potatoes for market, none, in my
experience or knowledge, has so high a reputa¬
tion as the Magnum Bonum. The Champion is
wearing out—its constitution seems going,
which is, I think, a pity, as in my opinion
it is superior when properly cooked to the
Magnum. I grant it is rough iu appearance,
and this coarseness involves waste. Another
Potato which had a very high character (I am
referring to [Reading Hero) has disappointed
some people who have grown it largely in the
field. From its behaviour in the garden with
me I think much of it, and its quality, when
cooked, is very superior, but it grows luxuriously
and mu3t have plenty of room. Though I gave
it 3 feet between the rows it was not enough,
as the rows on the outside of the plot proved
when the crop was lifted.

Potatoes for the Table. — Royal Ashleaf,
Myatt’s Prolific, Forty Fold, Beauty of Hebron,
White Elephant, Schoolmaster, Excelsior, In¬
ternational, Magnum Bonum, Reading Hero,
and Champion. This list might be extended,
but the above have been selected for general
usefulness as well as being good croppers, and
they are, to a certain extent, disease resisting.
Some are good in one place and fail in others,
but tho above will bo found fairly good all

round. I do not care much for the White
Elephant; but it does well and is liked in
some places.

Exhibition Potatoes .—Lady Truscot, Reading
Russet, Snowdrop, Radstock Kidney, Vicar of
Laleham, Porter’s Excelsior, Beauty of Hebron,
International, Vermont Champion, School¬
master, Sutton’s Early Regent, Matchless, Red
Emperor, Sutton’s First and Best, Queen of the
Valley, American Purple, Myatt’a Prolific,
Triumph, Pearl, and Pride of the Market.

Diseases.

The curl is a very old complaint, and the
witoworm has now and again made his pre¬
sence felt, but there 'was not much to com¬
plain of till the fungus now known as
Peronospora infeatans made its appearance
in 1845, I think it was — I am writing
from memory—and then for quite a number of
years the prospects of both Potato growers
and consumers were dismal. In looking back
over the intervening years and taking stock of
the various theories of cause, and cure promul¬
gated, it is rather amusing to see how little
came of all the nostrums. I believe the best
thing I ever tried was a dusting of newly slaked
lime over the foliage when the disease first ap¬
peared, before the tubers were affected at all ;
but the interval for the use of this is so limited
it is only useful for a small garden patch. The real
remedy for the Potato disease is now in opera¬
tion in many places, and it may be called im¬
proved culture carried out by common sense
methods. Firstly, by selecting the right kind
of soil, and giving it a thorough preparation by
deep culture and trenching, as well as by ex¬
posure to sweeten and pulverise it. Secondly,
by selecting the best seed and keeping them in
proper condition, so that no exhaustion takes
place from undue growth, those kinds possess¬
ing vigour of constitution, as denoted by strength
of stems, to have the preference. Thirdly, by
giving plenty of room when growing. These
three sections may be amplified so as to include
everything common to very first-class culture.

E. Hobday.

FRUIT.

Canker in Apple trees.—Iu Garden¬
ing, December 6th, appears a paragraph on the
above subject in which occurs this sentence :
“ From close watching and examination I find
only those trees subject to canker that have
been attacked by American blight or other
parasitical insects that live on the bark.”
Now, so very different is real canker to the
galls caused by American blight that I feel
bound to take exception to the theory advanced
by “J. S.” Wherever the American blight
makes its appearance on the bark of the Apple
tree, the bark commences to swell, or rise in
galls ; and if the blight is not disturbed the
galls will go on increasing in size till in some
instances on shoots not much larger than a
man’s thumb the protuberances will be as largo
as one’s fist, with a little dried scaly bark
covering the protuberance. If this loose bark
is rubbed with the back of a knife it will easily
come off, and will disclose underneath on a
fleshy-looking uneven surface the American
blight busily at work. In the case of young
growing shoots being attacked, they swell on
the affected parts in fleshy-looking galls, and
it is only after the blight has continued its
ravages several years that the affected parts
assumes the proportions I describe above, and
throw off a loose dry bark which give the galls
the appearance of canker. Now, the appear¬
ance of canker is not attended by any swelling
of the affected parts, but the bark turns black,
and shrivels as though a hot iron had been
applied to it. It often happens that the bark
will canker on one side only of a shoot, and
after a time the young bark will begin to grow
over the wound again. The shelter afforded by
such places is quickly taken advantage of by
the American blight, which has led many to
suppose that the injury had been caused by it.
I have seen the shoots of trees in the spring of
the year, when the sap is on the move, become
badly affected with canker after a sharp frost.
It takes place by the bursting of the bark, and
ultimate dying of the shoot. I have known
trees canker badly on whicti not a traco of
American blight or any other insect could be
found. On the other hand, I have known treea
badly affected by American blight on which

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

521

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 20, 1884. } - a

there was not a trace of canker. That canker
arises from different causes I am ready to
believe, but I cannot bring myself to believe
that American blight is one.— \V. Harris,

Barnstaple.

Liquid manure to fruit trees in
winter.— The advisability or non-advisability
of giving liquid manure to fruit trees in winter,
either in or out-of-doors, depends on several
things. If the trees are young and strong, it
would be a mistake to give manure ; or if in a
wet locality, or where the soil is at all of a
retentive character, its application would also
do harm instead of good. Where, however,
the reverse of these conditions exist it would do
good if used in moderate quantities, and not too
strong. But manure in a liquid form is never
so effectual as when the plants to which it is
applied, of whatever kind they may be, are in
active growth, tops and roots alike. It is then
that liquid feeding is advantageous. I have
tried a good many experiments with liquid
manure in winter on crops of all kinds, and on
vacant ground, such as that to be planted with
vegetables the following year. Its subsequent
effects depend a good deal not alone on the
character of the surface soil, but also on that of
the subsoil. On heavy land, if applied in largo
quantities, it induces a sour, cold condition not
suitable for early planting. Where the under
stratum] is porous, unless where the top soil is
deep, much of the strength of the manure gets
washed down by the rains beyond the reach of
the roots of the crops to be planted. The best
way of disposing of this sort of liquid in winter
is to throw it on a good body of any sort of dry
material that may exist about a place, such as
ashes, sawdust, loam, or decayed vegetable
matter of any kind. Where a sufficient body of
any of these ia available for the retention of
the liquid, it can be used with advantage in the
many ways in which solid manure is applied.—
T.

Planting vines for fruiting.— In order
to secure a crop of Grapes the first season after
planting, I should procure a number of strong
fruiting canes, but on no account to rely on them
for a permanency. They should be treated as
supernumeraries, to be fruited to their full
extent during one or two seasons and then be
cut clean away. To be certain of a crop the
same year in which they are planted, plant
strong canes just referred to, with their balls of
Boil intact, and even then very careful watering
will be necessary or they will fail. The roots of
plants grown in pots are necessarily much coiled,
and unless the balls of soil are soaked in water,
the roots carefully uncoiled, and spread evenly
throughout the new soil, they do not readily
become established. Wherever a permauent
rod is required, or say one to each rafter, these
being about 4 feet apart, I should plant one
cane, the stronger supernumeraries being worked
in between them—the former to have their
roots loosened and treated as just described,
and the latter planted with their balls moi3t and
intact, the soil about them being made very
firm. As there may be a difficulty in maintain¬
ing these large balls in a moist state they should
be planted rather deeply, and this admits of a
basin being formed above with the soil, a prac¬
tice which greatly facilitates watering, as well
as encourages the formation of strong new tap
roots. If the border is inside, the permanent
vines may be quite small, and should be cut
down to near the ground ; but if planted out¬
side they ought to be much stronger, and be
shortened to the nearest point to where the
young shoots will get sufficient light; the
lower outside buds Bhould not be rubbed off,
but stopped at their fifth or sixth joints, these
laterals being encouraged owing to their being
good stem-swellers. If the permanent vines
make good progress they should each carry
two or three bunches the year after they are
planted, and will be in full bearing by the time
when the supernumeraries are exhausted.—
Vitjs.

Bonne of Jersey, Marie Louise (d’Uccle), stream, lake, or spring; yet it should bs
Zepherin Gregoire, and others. It would he j capable of being well-drained at least 1 foot
best to re-graft the tree with a free-setting I below the surface. Another important mate-

variety selected from the above.—J. D. E.

12333.—Fruit tree for east aspect.— It would
depend very much on the tasto of the individual. The best
and most p'rofltnbio treo for such a purpose would be Marie
Louise Pear.—J. D. E.

12334.—Pear tree unfruitful.— Tf the
tree flowers freely every year, and the blossoms
drop off without setting, it is evident that the
variety is not suitable for the position. Some
sorts are. not worth growing, owing to their
characteristic habits of dropping their blossoms.
A few free-bearing sorts are Beurre Diel, Beurre
d’Am aril is, Beurje 4'Aremberg, lVVinter Nelis,
Beurre Boso, £qfiM<jtlfen, Louiae

CRANBERRY CULTURE.

The Cranberry is a low, trailing evergreen
shrub with very Blender branches and erect,
fruit-bearing stems. It is almost exclusively a
northern plant. The early settlers in America
found it so abundant, growing wild, that there
was no necessity for its cultivation, and it has
only been within the last half century that
attention has been directed to its culture. For
the last 40 or 50 years, however, thero has been
a steady increase in the area devoted to it, not
only by individuals, but also by companies with
abundant means to cultivate it on a large scale.
Like Hop-growing and most other special
industries, the profits from its cultivation have
varied considerably ; but on the whole it has
proved a profitable crop to growers. Being anti¬
scorbutic, the Cranberry is perhaps the most
healthful of all our fruits, and as it can be cooked
in many different ways, and is sprightly and
pleasant in all forms, it is one of the greatest
luxuries of the table. Inaddition to the benefit of
having our markets and tables supplied with this
fruit, its culture is a source of national wealth and
welfare, inasmuch as the land devoted to
it was previously uncultivated, enriching
neither individuals nor the State. Moreover,
by its cultivation many low, boggy wastes that
generated malaria that poisoned the air for
miles around have been converted into healthful
localities and fruitful fields. There are still
scattered throughout all parts of the Northern
States numerous marshes and manure beds that
are now productive of rubbish that could be
readily converted into flourishing Cranberry
beds, rich sources of income to their owners,
Location. —As a Cranberry plantation is a
permanent investment, giving annual returns
for a lifetime, it is important that every precau¬
tion should be taken to make it as perfect as
possible. Naturally, tho Cranberry is a semi-
aquatic plant, requiring a constant supply of
wator to insure a state of thrift and productive¬
ness. Experience shows, however, that it can
be profitably grown on a great variety of soils ;
but the beat soil for it is an equal mixture of
coarse sand and manure. As it is seldom
that a soil of this composition can be found
in a state of nature, the best way is to
form it artificially by covering well decomposed
manure with a layer of sand. In a few years
the two become thoroughly incorporated,
making a soil resembling black sand. Profitable
sites for a Cranberry bed are the following :
Heath ponds, or low basins, places naturally
flooded with water in winter; swamp lands in
which deposits of manure or peat are found,
and when properly prepared these make
valuable and lasting plantations ; savannas or
low grounds lying between swamps and up¬
lands ; bottoms of old mill-ponds from which
the water has been drawn off, and black sand
with a clay subsoil; in short, soils formed by
the deposits of muddy water, or, in other words,
alluvial formations, arc suitable for Cranberry
culture. Various modifications of the above
situations can also be converted into profitable
plantations. Although there are numerous in-
stancesof successful Cranberry culture on alluvial
uplands, still such locations arc invariably less
desirable and profitable than the low, damp
sites just enumerated, for the Cranberry is
naturally a semi-aquatic plant, requiring a
constant supply of water to ensure its highest
perfection. Water is needed not only to
supply moisture to the plants, but also to
cover them in winter so as to afford them pro¬
tection from severe cold, and to retard bloom¬
ing in spring, as premature flowers would
often be injured by early frosts, and, more¬
over, flooding destroys the injurious insects
and their larvm, frequent assailants of both
plants and fruit. The moisture should be
always not far below the surface ; but stagnant
water is fatal to the thrift of the plant, and tho
site of a plantation should therefore bo such
that it can always be flooded in winter and,

rial used in the preparation of Cranberry beds
is sand—which is spread over the surface of
the ground. This sand should be pure, free
from any admixture of clay or loam, and the l '
best test of a suitable kind is this : Take a
portion of it and compress it tightly in the
hand ; if it is suitable, it will fall apart on beiDg
released ; if it adheres together after the pres¬
sure has been removed, a better article should
be sought. To save labour and expense, there¬
fore, it is very desirable that an abundance of
a suitable quality of sand should be close to the ,
site of a Cranberry bed.

Preparation of the bed. —Having selected
a location combining water, sand, and manure
or peat, the next step is to prepare the ground
for planting. Tho method of doing this varies
somewhat in the several locations mentioned,
but here there is space for only a general
account of the process. Usually the first step ,
is to cut a main ditch through the lowest line
of the land. This should be as straight and as
near the middle of the marsh as possible. In
large plantations a second or even a third such
ditch may be advantageous, the object being to
drain off the surplus water, so as to make the
rest of the work easier at the outset, each
ditch afterwards forming the main drain in the
plantation. The cutting should therefore be
broad and deep enough to carry off the water
readily. Smaller ditches from 12 inches to 18
inches deep should then be cut from 30 feet to
40 feet apart, as necessity may demand, at
right angles to the mains, into which they must
open like lateral drains in ordinary drainage.
Sometimes tile drains are substituted for open
ditches. When the water has been removed,
then clear off all trees, brushwood, Briers, and
other encumbrances. These may be burnt on
the ground and the ashes be scattered over
the surface, provided this can be done without
endangering the soil. When the soil is dry a
considerable depth of the turf is sometimes
burned, eo that the remainder can be more easily
handled, but if the deposit is dry far down, it
may burn to too great a depth, so that this prac¬
tice is hardly advisable. If the manure is deep
enough, so that a portion of it can be spare !
(and a depth of 2 feet or 3 feet is ample for
a Cranberry bed), it should be carted off for
application to the neighbouring uplands, after
haviDg been weathered or used in a compost
If a turfed meadow is selected, the surface is
either cut in blocks, which are packed in heapB
on the dry land until they are well rotted, when
they are spread on the place whence they were
removed; or, better and easier, the Burface is
turned over flat and left to decompose. A dry
meadow, free of obstructions, may be ploughed ,
with a plough having a sharp, extra wide share,
so as to turn over the furrows flat without
lapping in the slightest degree. Indeed, when
the soil of any sort of bed is sufficiently firm to
admit of being ploughed and harrowed, it is
best to do so, as by this means it can be pre¬
pared better and more cheaply than by hand
work. It is always well to prepare the ground
at least one season before planting, so that all
weeds, brushwood, and roots may be thoroughly
destroyed, for if this is not done at starting,
it will be a difficult operation after the
ground is covered with plants. The bed

having been thus cleared, it should be made ,
quite level, so that when flooded the water
may rest at an equal depth everywhere. ,
If, however, the surface has a natural
fall (which is favourable for drainage), the cm- ,
bankment at the lower extremity should be high
enough to permit a depth of 2 feet of water at ,
the upper end of the plantation. When the bed ^
has been levelled and otherwise prepared, it ^
should be covered with pure, coarse sand to a ,
depth of from 2 inches to 8 inches, the depth
depending on the compact or loose character „
of the soil. If it is very loose more should be q
applied than when it is comparatively compact, ^
as more or less will sink into the soil. That .
the depth should be uniform on a level surface,
if the soil is of a uniform consistency, is quite *j
important. The work of spreading the sand is
greatly facilitated by laying down a rude,
movable track on which tho trucks containing
the sand may run. When the bed is flooded in -i
| winter, after having been otherwise prepared, -

whenever needed, irrigated in summer from a 1 the coat of sand may be spread on the ice, in

' '"1BANA-CHAMPAIGN

Dec. 20, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

£25

which case it will sink to its place when the ice
melts. If the manure bed is underlaid with
sand, and id not too deep, pits may be dug at
intervals, and the clean, white sand from beneath
thrown up, or a subsoil plough or trenching may
be employed for the same purpose. Experience
proves that sand is especially suited to successful
Cranberry growth. It is light, porous, and
almost incapable of supporting weeds. Beach
ssnd is found to be the best, and in the absence
of this, pure, coarse sand comes next.

Embankments.—T he beds should be sur¬
rounded by an embankment, which should be
at least 4 feet high when first made, as it will
settle somewhat; and, moreover, it is wtdl to
have it a foot or more above high water mark
to guard against breaks. If the eoil excavated
from the drainage ditches in the bed be suffi¬
ciently compact, it may form the embankments ;
otherwise, different soil must be added. If
there is not naturally a sufficient supply of
water to flood the bed when desired, a reservoir
should be constructed at the upper end of the
plantation, from which it should be separated
by an extra strong embankment, with a Bluice
gate for the purpose of letting in the water and
shutting it off. At the foot of the plantation a
dam must be constructed of the nearest suitable
material, strong enough to resist any possible
pressure that can be brought against it when the
ced is flooded, and high enough to allow a depth
of at least 2 feet of water in the shallowest
part of the plantation, in case this is not com¬
pletely level, a condition which is very desirable,
though sometimes unattainable except by too
heavy an outlay. The dam should also be
furnished with a sluice-gate, tho latter to be
shut down to let the water overflow the Cran¬
berries, and opened to let the flood off when
desired. The bed may be one acre or more,
provided it can bo properly flooded. Almost
the entire cost of the plantation is due to the
preparation of the bed. An estimation of the
expense is impossible, as it will cost as much to
remove the trees, stumps, brushwood, Ac., and
to build reservoira and embankments on one
piece of land as to fully prepare another for the
reception of tho plants. The outlay has varied
from £20 to £120 per acre, but it must be borne
in mind that, with moderate success, in a
suitable location, properly prepared, the invest¬
ment is permanently remunerative. If the
swamp be covered with valuable timber, the sale
of the trees may pay the whole expense of con¬
verting it into a Cranberry meadow.

Varieties and plantino. —Tho best time for
planting is from the beginning of April to the
middle of June, according to the latitude and
climate ; but where the bed can be kept moist
the work may be continued during the entire
summer. Sometimes the plants are put out in
autumn and covered with a sufficient depth of
water to prevent the ground from freezing and
throwing them out. In any case it is of first
importance that the plants should be obtained
from fruitful beds as well as those that produce
the largest and best fruit. When plants cannot
be obtained in the neighbourhood either from
wild or cultivated beds, they should be bought
from those who make a business of growing
plants for Bale ; but in such cases care should be
taken to secure good plants, and that they should
bo carefully packed before they become dry. A
little extra care aud expense in this matter will
be amply repaid in more profitable returns after¬
wards. The three principal varieties of
Cranberries recognised in the markets are,
the Cherry, round, hard, dark, almost black,
and either large or small, as there are two varie¬
ties ; the Bugle, egg-shaped, a pale crimson,
large and small, for of this, too, there are two
varieties ; and the Bell, large, black, and the
favourite with Cranberry growers. There are
many other Bhapes intermediate between these,
and in colour the varieties vary from greenish
yellow or white to dark rich purple, almost black.
Having procured the plants or cuttings, they
should be set in rows from 18 inches to 3 feet or
so apart, according to their quantity and quality,
the object being to cover the ground as soon as
possible. There are several methods of planting,
such as sod planting, hill planting, drill plant¬
ing, planting by pressure, and putting cuttings.
The Early Black Bell some consider the most
profitable sort A good way is to make drills
from 2 feet to 3 feet apart*- a»d in them set from
three to six cuttings 4 Jjnchej <Jrep 4 m i2

inches pressing the soil solidly about them, and
letting the tops lie slanting near the ground.
On meadows of thin Bod the plants may be
dropped on the surface, and covered with an
inch or two of sand. Most of the large planta- j
tions, especially iu the west, are made with j
plants taken directly from the wild beds ; they
are removed in large clumps or sods from which
all weeds and grasses should be removed before
they are transferred to the Cranberry bed, or
else cuttings are made and planted the same as
those procured from cultivated beds.

Cultivation.— For the first two or three
seasons the beds should be carefully cultivated,
and no weeds, Grass, or sprouts from brushwood
should be allowed to grow. A hoe may be used
the first year for eradicating these, but later
the plants cover the ground so thickly that a
hand-fork and trowel are the ODly proper
implements for the purpose. Constant attention
rather than hard work is required, and when
the plants have become matted over the whole
surface very little cultivation will afterwards
he needed. Bearing begins within three or
four years after planting, the time depending on
the quality of the plants, the richness of the
soil, and the care bestowed on cultivation. If
the fruit is picked sooner it is likely to injure
the subsequent crop. Fertilisers often do more
harm than good. The only safe way in apply¬
ing them is to experiment with a few plants and
be guided by the result. A sprinkling of fresh,
rich manure, well pulverised and mixed with
pure, coarse sand, has been found tho best
application.

Flooding.— The water should be let on only
when the ground has begun to freeze, but
before it has frozen hard. The proper time
will, of course, vary in different places and
also in different seasons. So will the depth of
water which should cover the bed—all that is
needed is depth sufficient to prevent the plants
from freezing ; and while a depth of 3 feet will
not be too much in some places, a depth of
2 feet or less will prevent this in other locali¬
ties. The water should be kept ou in spring
until all danger of late frosts is over, as this
will retard blossoming, and the flowers aud
fruit of the Cranberry are easily injured, even
by slight frosts. There should bo no set ceason
for letting the water on or off, as location and
season should determine the matter. Unless
in the case of autumn planting, flooding is un¬
necessary until the third year after the plants
have been set out. Sometimes it is advisablo
to flood the meadows during the summer
drought, but then it is advisable to apply
only just water enough to give the soil a good
soaking.

Gathering. —Gathering is now mostly done
by hand, as it has been found that the Cranberry
rake injures the plants aud so damages the
fruit, or rather mixes with it so much dirt and
leaves, that it brings a lower price in the market
than hand-picked sorts. The picking begins in
September or October, and in the operation
various sorts of crates, baskets, hurdles, &c.,
are used, the main object being to allow all
foreign bodies to fall through when the fruit is
carried from the field or spread out to dry. All
unsound berries should be carefully removed
before the fruit is packed for market. In large
plantations the berries are run through a fanning
mill furnished with a long sieve or grate to
separate tho small berries from the large, or a
separator constructed for thia purpose is used.
After they have passed through this ordeal they
undergo the inspection of a row of women on
each side of a long table, at one end of which
the berries are started and passed down to the
barrel or box at the other end, each person
picking out any damaged berries that may be
seen during the passage. The clean berries
should be packed in whatever sort of receptacle
is the favourite in the market whero they are
to be sold, and until wanted stored in a well-
ventilated, cool room into which neither sun
nor frost can penetrate. The field varies
greatly in accordance with the cultivation, the
quality of the plants, and the soil, the injury
from frosts, insects, and othtr causes. A large
yield would be from 330 to 400 bushels per
acre, and an average one about 200 bushels.
Any leas than 100 to 150 bushels would hardly
pay interest on the investment and the cost of
caring for tho bed and harvesting the crop.—
Rural New Yorker.

IMPROVING GARDEN SOIL.

Before vegetables can be produced in the
greatest quantity aud of the best quality it is
necessary that the soil should be good. In
making a new kitchen garden few spots can be
found in which the soil all through is thoroughly
good to tho depth of 2 feet or more. I have had
to deal with gardens in which some paita might
be this depth, but in others the soil was of the
shallowest and poorest description. Such soils
are only suitable for the growth of certain
crops, but in a good vegetable garden this should
not be so, as every square foot of it should be
made to produce whatever kind of crop may
be desired. In gardens in w’hicli the soil is
poor and uneven in depth and the whole
inclining to be shallow more time is spent
in accomplishing the work necessary to be
done than need be ; therefore, the fault should
be remedied, and now is the time to set about
it. Perhaps not more than one or two quarters
could be done this winter, but let these be
ddne properly and thoroughly, and in time the
whole will be converted into the highest state
of fertility. Where the sub-soil is gravel, or
where there is a good natural drainage, drains
will be unnecessary, but where cold and wet,
and tho surface consequently far from being
sweet and mellow, drainage will require atten¬
tion. In low-lying ground it is an expensive
job to drain with good outlets, but on an incline
draining can always be readily aud cheaply
done. There must at least be odb main drain
into which all the smaller ones should be led,
and these should be at least 2£ feet below the
surface, with 3-inch earthenware pipes at tho
bottom, and a quantity of rough stones round
them. These should be put in every 10 yards or
12 yards apart, aud this should be done first in
beginning to improve any piece of garden
ground.

Gardens suffer from want of trenching when
the surface soil has been dug over time after
time without making any attempt to go down
farther than the depth of one spade. The sub¬
soil in that case gets hard, tho roots scarcely
ever penetrate it, in summer this shallow soil
soon dries up, and crops fail. Deep cultivation
is a grand thing and should be constantly prac¬
tised, but harm may in some cases be done by
bringing up a large quantity of poor sub-soil to
the surface and putting the good surface soil
down in the bottom, where the roots will be
long in finding it or being benefited thereby.
Such treatment as this might in time improve the
soil, but it is not a good plan to adopt in order
to Becnre a fine crop of vegetables immediately
after trenching—a point which should be kept
in view. Trenching need not be an annual
practice. If the worst of ground is turned up
this year it will not require trenching again for
a number of years, but many soils which have
not been trenched for five or six years would
be greatly benefited by being subjected to that
operation now. Trenching is done in the same
way both in the case of new and old soils, and
when properly done it will be found to be of
the greatest advantage to the crops. It simply
consists of taking a large opening out at one end
of the piece of ground to be operated on, and
putting the soil thus removed at the other end.
The opening should be at least 2 feet deep
and 2 feet wide. The soil next to this is theu
turned over into the vacant trench, and so the
work goes on to the end. Where the ground is
very full of stones these should be collected and
placed in the bottom of each trench; As the
bottom of each trench is shovelled up a quantity
of any old half-decayed vegetable matter, rough
manure, charred refuse, and, in short, any
material which will improve the soil, should be
placed in a thick layer at the bottom, and then
be forked in.

The next trench taken out will come on
the top of this, and after the top spit has been
turned over another lajer of manure may be put
on just under the surface. In the case of poor
sub-soils they should be so worked that only a
small portion is brought to the surface, and if
the manure be placed near them at the bottom
they will be in fine order to bring up to the
surface two or three years hence. This im¬
proves soil greatly, and in tirno I would under¬
take to make the most sterile soils fertile by
means of this process. 'Where good manure
is to be had it would, of course, be best to trench
a quantity down to the bottom, but it is Beldom

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

5 26

GARDENING ILL DSTRA TED

[Dec. 26, 1684,

that the beat manure can be had In sufficient
quantity for this, and old refuse answers
the purpose very well ; in fact, this i3 a
good way of getting rid of such material.
Soil trenched in the manner just indicated
during December, January, and February
would be in excellent order for cropping
in March and onwards. Just before sowing
or planting a quantity of good fresh manure
might be forked into the surface with
much advantage. This would be a good plan
in the case of poor soil, but where the surface
was rich in organic matter, especially leaf-soil
or anything likely to generate fungi, a dressing
of lime would be beneficial. We generally
apply the lime at the rate of 4 tons to the acre,
but this depends a good deal on the state of the
soil, as some soils require more than others.
Apart from newly-trenched soil, we frequently
miBs manuring some of our quarters for one
year and give them a dressing of lime. It is
carted from the kiln in lumps and emptied
down in heaps on the quarters. A quantity pf
the surrounding soil is then thrown over it, and
there it remains until it has fallen into dust,
when it is distributed all over the surface and
forked or dug in. It is a bad plan to allow
empty ground to remain smooth and firm on the
surface during winter. When in this state the
mellowing influence of the frost and the weather
generally is lost. In digging or trenching the
surface should always be left in as rough a state
as possible. J. M.

KITCHEN GARDEN BRIDGES.

These should form part of the tools belonging
to all carefully worked kitchen gardens. The
edgings which surround the vegetable quarters,
no matter whether they be boxwood, stone, tile,
or wood, cannot be wheeled over with impunity,
and all who study economy and neat appearance

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

12314. — Chrysanthemums dying off.—
It might be easy to say what is the cause of
this if some information had been given of the
treatment they have received. Sometimes
branches of a plant will dieoff suddenly, leaving
a gap. This is very common with the Pompone
varieties when they have grown from an old
stem of the previous year. In the case referred
to here the cause must be sought for in another
way. I would say that they have had too much
manure-water, or else they suffered from over¬
dryness at the roots. The gardener would
know which of these causes is the right one.—
J. D. E.

12210.—White Lilac.— The Paris market
gardeners, who first invented the method of
growing white Lilac, obtain it by forcing the
plants in total darkness. It is not the white-
flowered kind that is employed, but those
bearing dark-coloured flowers, such as Charles
the Tenth and Mary. Fairly strong bushes,
which have had good culture in the open ground,
are taken up and potted early in September,
that is if they are required to bloom by Christ¬
mas, but, if wanted in spring, the middle of
October will be soon enough. The temperature
should not be too high, or the flowers will not
develop, 60 degs. being quite enough. When
the blooms are fully expanded the plants
should be removed to a cool place, then the
flowers last a long time in a cut state.—J. C. B.

12343.—Magnolias not blooming.—A brick wal 1
facing south is the right position for M. grandiflora, and if
the plant grows freely but does not flower it must be
because the shy-flowering variety has been planted. The
free-flowering variety is that termed the “Exmouth
variety." Magnolias like a pood, deep, and rich soil with
an admixture of peat. — J. D. E.

Fig, 1.—Solid wooden bridge.

Fig. 2.—Bridge made of boards.

in their gardens would not tolerate dilapidated
edgings. Where much wheeling has to be done
odd pieces of board or any kind of makeshifts
are never satisfactory. Small bridges made
specially for the purpose are best, and should
always be used. Of these we have two in
use, both good. Fig. 1 is sawn out of a solid
block of wood, and then a little archway is cut
out in the centre sufficiently large to clear the
edgings. This is rather heavy, and for some
might be too expensive, but Fig. 2 will meet all
cases. It consists of two boards each about 2
feet long nailed to a cross-piece in the centre ;
other two pieces are then nailed across to
hold it up about C inches so as to form a pro¬
tection to the edgings. The boards may be
about 1 foot or more in width, and anyone who
can use a hammer and a saw may make such a
bridge. With one or two of either kind in a
garden no edgings need ever be injured let
the amount of wheeling over them be ever so
great. J. M. M.

BIRDS.

12339.— Pruning 1 Roses —Nearly, if not quite, the
whole of the Hybrid Perpetual Roses should be cut back to
within 6 inches of the ground. Those who recommend not
to prune at all, or but very little, must have had in their
mind some of the climbing or Tea Roses. It is best to
leave the growths of these of considerable length. Still, it
is well to observe that the largest proportion of the Teas do
well closely pruned in, os the Hybrid Perpetuals.—J. D. E.

12345 — Chrysanthemums in winter.— Take the
cuttings now and keep the plants in frames until the spring
and plant them out in the garden. They might be planted
now, but if the winter is very severo they may die, or at
least some of them would.—J. D. E.

Albert Gray, of Ticehurst.—We do not name florists

flowers.- Ignoramus.— We only name garden plants.

“ Stark’s British Mosses" would assist you in naming what

you send.- Jihn Stanton, of Oorcy, Jersey, will find the

heat generator advertised on page v. of Gardening of

December 13, 1884.- Sunshine.— Ground Nut (Arachis

hypogssa). The Musa can be obtained from Messrs. Veitch

and Sons’ Exotic Nurseries, King’s Road, Chelsea.-

IF. A'.—A very good bloom, but not worth illustrating.

Names Of plants. — Gringo.— Raphiolcps ovata.-

M. h .—Your plant is Aralia Japonic.. (Sieboldii). It is
usually treated as a greenhouse plant, but is hardy in

many districts. See note on page 614 of this number.-

Douglas. —Acer campestre.

Canary with bad throat. -Can anyone tell me the '
bust treatment to adopt for a canary which has, since
moulting, been suffering from a wheezing in the throat
which increases towards night? When moultingthofeathers
came off tho heal, which teemed to cause great irritation, ,
bxrt upon sulphur ointment being applied, and being j
removed to a new zinc cage, he recovered, and is now in the
state before mentioned. He is very melancholy and stops
on his top perch all day^Qnly coming dowaa to feed. He i
makes great efforts to rfng But without ava 1. Jle is a pure I
©Mow bird, and is arsftlifj- E ,

Oil StOV63.—I am quite sure the frequent complaint*
of oil lamps for cool greenhouse use arises from a want of
due attention in trimming. I am now using iny throe
lamps (Wright and Butler’s make) for the third winter and
have never once found cither smoke or smell, and I can
keep an average temperature of 40 degs. The cotton being
too high is the fault. From one-sixteenth of an inch to one-
eighth of an inch is a Bare height, or between the two is
safer still, amt a pint of paraffin burns from ten to eleven
hours. My houses are a lean-to 12 feet by 7J feet, and a
Fern house span 12 feet by 9 feot. I may add I always,
hang a carpet round at night.—S. E. Ciiaj’man.

QUERIES.

Rules fbr Correspondents.—A U ro nmunicationt

/br insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
sUle of the pajier only and a/Ulresscd to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Pdblishbr. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any now
de plume fo be used in the paper. Answers to Queries ,. A

should always bear the number and title of the query \
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper Owing to the necessity oj
Oardkni.no going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not answered
should be sent to us again.

Naming plants or fruit.— Four plants, fruits, or
flowers only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens are sent We do «/>< undertake to
name varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comjarison at hand.

Any communication res]acting plants or fruit sent to
name should alirays accompany the parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
specimens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12378.— Sowing Peas.— Will some reader Inform me
in what order and in what time to sow the followiug eo ts
of Peas to keep up a supply from the 6th of June until late
in the season ? I intend sowing nine rows. I may say I
sowed one row of Ringleader on November 13th, the other
sorts will be one row of William 1st, two of Champion of
England, two of Ne Plus Ultra, one of Gladiator, one of
Harrison’s Early, and one of British Queen.—W. N.

12379.—Creeper near hot-water pipes.—I am
anxious to grow some kind of creeper on a wire tre’lis to
hide the hot-water pipes in a greenhouse. It must be
evergreen. Would Ivy do? The trellis must be about 1
inch from the pipes, but they are never very hot.—S. H.

12380 —Dutchman’s pipe —Would you kindly tell
me if the Dutchman's Pipe (Aristcl >chia Sipho) is ever¬
green, when is the best time to plant out-of-doore. which is
the best aspect, also what kind aud colours are the flowers ?
-S. H.

12381.— Mice in greenhouse —Can any reader tell
me the best wav to get rid of field mice from my green¬
house? They have eaten some of iny Indiarublier plants,
ami many Lobelias and Verbenas. I have tried bread and
butter but they will noteat it, if they would I could soon get
rid of them. Tho leaves of the Indiarubber plants they
took away, from two plants they have taken the whole,
and in ono cose have only left the root in the pot.—T. C.

12382.— Chrysanthemum Felicete. — Will tomo
experienced reader kindly say if Chrysanthemum Fell ete is
a Japanese variety, or to what cla89 does it belong ? 1 was
disqualified this week at a show for having one of the
above in a group of large-flowering kinds.—E. H.

12383.—Lea V63 for hotbed—I shall feel much
obliged if someone will tell me th i best way of decompo-ing
leaves so as to be able to utilise them for a hotbed in a few
mouths, os hitherto leaves have been useless to me for such
purposes as they were too dry.—R rx.

12SS4.— Smilax maurltanicus.—I have a cutting
of Smilax m&uritanicus, which has rooted in Cocoa-nut
fibre. Is it worth growing in a small stove, if so, the soil
most suitable for it?—G ringo.

12335.— Pruning Passion-flowers. —I have a
Passion-flower growing all over the back of my house.
Wh ;n Is the p-oper timo to prune it and trim it into shape,
as it has grown very much and hangs down in large
branches ? - Birch held.

12388.— Border for greenhouse.— My greenhouse,
a lean-to, is 30 feet by 12 feet. It f^cen due east. Inside
there is a border 2 feet high by 3 feet wide, running along
the front and across the south end, in which four vines are

f ilanted. Will you or one of your numerous readers kindly
nstruct mo as to the best use I could make of this border?

I have hot-water pipes but have not heated them yet except
a little in very damp weather.—R. C.

12337 -Freesla Leichtlini.-Will any of your
readers kindly inform me the best time to pot Freesii
Leichtlini Lily to grow in cottage window, having no other
place to grow them ?—Lricbster Job.

12383 — Vallota purpurea. -I have a Valloti
purpurea that flowered fret-ly in August and there is one
seed pod on tho p ant. Is it a usual thing for it to seed ?

If the seed ripens when would it be proper to sow it. and
will it require any particular heat?—E lsib.

12389 — Chamropeuce Casmbonse —Is this con¬
sidered an annual or biennial? 1 have grown some, but
there is no sign of flower. How is tne seed obtained ? Do
they require any special treatment?— Elsib.

12390.— Martynla fragrans.— I have grown some
plants of Martyma fragrans thi9 summer ; they grew well
Dut did not flower. Is it possible to keep them through the
winter, and would they be likely to flower next summer?

I shall be obliged for advice —Elsib.

12391.— Cork! dust.—I have a quantity of cork dost;
should bo glad to know if it can be used to lay over the
plants in tho garden, so as to prevent the frost touching
them, and in tho spring can it De dug in the ground with
benefit?—E lsib.

12392 —Applying gas tar to vines.—I should like
to know if any reader of Gardknino could give me any
information respecting applying gas tar, as a winter dress¬
ing, to vines. 1 have a slight recollection of seeing it in
print. I should like to have someone’s practical experience
on the matter. I do not want to apply it to iny vines
unless it ha9 been proved harmless.—X. Y. Z.

12391. -Scotch Fir.—Can any reader tell tne how to
distinguish between the true Scotch Fir and the inferior
German variety of Pinus sylvestrl*, which I am told is
occasionally supplied in the place of it? How long ago is
it since the German seed was introduced ? I have gome
trees of about twenty years o'd with the growth of which I
am not satisfied. Not haying plantod them myself I cannot
trace the source from which they cams.—H.*E. B.

1239:.—Tropeeolum Lobbisjuim.—VFbcn passing
U rough Bettiws y loca, two yews Ago, 1 was much struck
with a very beautiful and brilliant scarlet climber, small

Dec. 20, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

527

flower, and dark foliage. I afterwards heard the name
was Tropaeolum Lobbianum, of which I purchased
twelve varieties last season, when to my intense disappoint¬
ment they turned out common Nasturtiums. Can any of
>our readers come to the rescue and give ine the correct
name and where and how obtainable, a a I have no doubt
others of your correspondents have remarked upon them?
They arc quite as striking in front of the cottages round
Bc-ttws.—H. S. P.

12195.—Chrysanthemum blooms spotted.—
Can any of j our readers tell me why my Chrysanthemum
blooms sometimes become slightly spotted with brown,
which spoiled them even before they were fully out?
They are in rather a l*w wooden greenhouse which [ have
no means of heating. There is a window in the roof and I
also leave the door open, except on cold nights. There is
no drip from the glass. Would an oil stove to dry the air
be likely to prevent this?—H. F.

12.116.—Vines in greenhouse. — My greenhouse
being a lean-to, 20 feet Tong by 9 feet wide, I should liko
to ulant two vinos in it Should th*»y he planted at the
end of the house ? Could I also plant a Rose ? Any infor¬
mation will oblige—A No vies,

12397.—Narthecium ossifragum.—Would some
reader kindly oblige with information regarding Northe-
eium ossifragum ? Is it worthy of a place in the garden
and what a; e its requirements ? I have been told it is a
very pretty plant and quite hardy.—A. S.

POULTRY.

Seasonable hints. —If ever there is an
absolute necessity for the giving of a warm feed
in the morning, it is at this season of the year,
and although we lay great stress upon it always,
we do so more now than at any other period. It
should, says a contemporary, have, in addition
to the meal, a little meat, which may consist of
the table scraps, or, if they are not sufficient in
quantity, some greaves or other kinds of meal
may be given. If the birds eat heartily there
is little fear of their taking any harm, for that
proves that they are in good health, and the
food will support them against the changes of
the weather ; but it is a bad sign when they get
careless over their food. Good, careful feeding
goes a long way in the prevention of disease,
and he who studies this question as it ought to
be studied will reap the benefit of it in the
healthfulness of his birds, and that means their
productiveness also.

Cochins.—" P.” does not mention Partridge Cochins
when writing, on December 6th. Will he kindly give his
experience, or anyone say what they think of them?
What should their comb be like ? I have pome young ones
promising to do well, just laying, very handsome birds.—
F.

Bantam fowl8.--How can I breed Bantams to reduce
their size ? Would white feathers at the root of the tail of
a black breasted Bantam cock disqualify it as a stock bird ;
and could I both breed down in size and show the birds at
the same time ?— Bantam.

HOUSEHOLD.

BACON AS IT IS CURED IN
YORKSHIRE.—II.

Pork pies.— 9 lb. flour, 1 lb. butter, 1 lb.
lard, 1 lb. suet, 1 pint new milk, salt to taste,
pork. Cut the suet into small pieces and
render it. Put the flour into a basin. Into a
saucepan put the butter, lard, fat from the suet,
and the new milk. Let them boil, and pour them
over the flour. Mix with a wooden spoon until tho¬
roughly wet, and let it stand until it is cool enough
to work with the hands, but do not allow it
to get cold. To take out sufficient paste to
make the crust of one pie, form it into a ball
on the baking board ; press the left hand with
the fingers bent at the second joint into the
middle of the ball and form it into the shape of
a jar, turning it round and round with the right
hand until the paste is a quarter of an inch thick
all round. Then mince the pork and season it well
with salt and plenty of pepper and a little mace.
Fill the crust with it, cut out a lid for the pie,
press the edges of the pie and lid neatly
together, and ornament with leaves, flowers,
Ac., cut out of thinly-rolled paste with a fancy
paste-cutter, stick them into the top and round
the sides of the pie, then pin a strip of white
foolscap, buttered, round it. Place the pies on
a cake tin, and bake in a moderately hot oven.
The above quantity of paste is generally
sufficient for the pork one has to spare for
m thing pork pics. The heart and lights of the
pig are made into mince pies.

Mince pies. —Heart and lights of rig, 1$ lb.
rice, 2 lb. apples, 2 lb. currants, ^ lb. candied
lemon peel, 2 lb. sugar, 1 lb. suet, ground cloves
and cinnamon to taste. The heart and lights
are put into a saucepan with sufficient boiling
water to cover them, and allowed to boil fl>r two
hours, or! until quite ttfcder^J’hey®^ |fren

taken out and allowed to get quite cold. When
cold they are cut into pieces and put thiough ,
the mincing machine, and then into a basin. I
The whole rice is put into a saucepan with water
to cover it, and boiled until all the water has
evaporated and the rice is quite tender. The
apples are pared, cored, and cut into slices, and
minced with a knife into pieces as small as the
grains of rice. The currants are washed in
lukewarm water, and all stones and tails
picked out, the lemon peel chopped, and the
suet minced very fine. These ingredients are
then mixed well together, with the sugar, ground
cloves, and cinnamon. A light paste is made,
patty-pans lined with it, mince-meat put in, and
a paste lid made and put on; they are then
baked on a cake-tin in a brisk oven. The
mince-meat that is left is put into small jars,
covered with paper, and will keep good for a
month ; so that pies can be made at any time
when wanted. The top part of the head, the
feet, the ears, and all the scraps of meat of the
pig, are made into potted meat.

Potted meat— Meat, pepper and salt to
taste. All odds and ends of meat, &c., are put
into a saucepan and covered with cold water ;
pepper, ground and whole, and salt to taste
added, and boiled for three hours. It is then
taken out aud the liquor strained into a basin.
All bones, skin, and superfluous fat are removed,
and the good and suitable bits of meat cut up
into small pieces, and put back into the strained
liquor. The meat and liquor are then poured
into a round or nicely-shaped dish and left to
jelly. When cold, all fat which has risen to
the surface is removed, and the potted meat
turned out into a meat dish.

Raisin wine. —To every gallon of spring
water put 8 lb. of fresh raisins in a large tub ;
stir it thoroughly every day for a month, then
press the raisins as dry as possible, put the
liquor into a cask, and when it has done hissing
pour in a bottle of the best brandy ; stop it
close for twelve months, then rack it off, but
without the dregs ; filter them through a bag of
flannel, three or four folds ; add the clear to the
quantity, and pour one or two quarts of brandy,
according to the size of the vessel; stop it up,
and at the end of two years you may either
bottle it or drink it from the cask.—Mrs. G.,
Bicton.

Tea cakes.— 2 lb. of dough, \ lb. of lard,
i lb. of currants. After the dough for the plain
bread is kneaded, cut off 2 lb. of it, place it on
the baking-board, place the lard in the middle of
it, and work it thoroughly into the dough. Now
put in the currants, and work them into it, then
put it into a basin and let it rise, and when risen
cut about half of it away. Put it on the baking-
board, cut it into four pieces, form each piece
into a nice round cake and roll it out about an
inch thick ; place the four on a cake tin and
prick them five or six times with a fork, and
put them before the fire to rise, turning them
frequently to allow of their rising equally all
round. Now stand in the oven, and bake until
just tinged with brown. These cakes are very
economical and easily made.

Rice milk soup.—To every half pound of
whole rice allow three quarts of milk and
sugar to taste. Wash the rice well, put it into
an enamelled saucepan, and pour the milk over
it. Let it come to the boil over a clear fire,
and then draw the saucepan on to the side and
allow it to simmer for two hours, or rather
more. Just before removing it from the fire,
add sufficient sugar to taste. Serve either hot
or cold for supper. This is an excellent vege¬
tarian dish.

Beer from honeycomb.— Will anyone give a receipt
for making wine or beer from the refuse of honeycomb ?—
J. R,

AQUARIA.

Fungus on fish In aquarium.— Can any reader
inform me how to cure fungus on fish kept in an aquarium ?
I got some fish in March last and ever since I have had
flr*>t- one and then another attacked with fungus, especially
on the lips and head, and have had to destroy them.— Rbd
Robb. _

Acacia platyptera.— This Acacia blooms before any
of the others—at least, before any of those that resemble
it—and therefore it forms a very useful greenhouse or con¬
servatory plant at the dullest time of the year. It is of
vigorous yet bushy growth, and differs greatly from the
others, owing to its peculiarly winged stems, which seem
to take the place of leaves. The whole plant is a mass of
deep golden coloured little balls, and strikingly beautiful.

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T AMPS — Lamps for Greenhouse. The Patent

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LIRE ANA-CHAMPAIGN

529

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dkc. 20, 1884.

JOHN PIGGOTT

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Comr»rehen»ivo Practical Guide t-> the sncce**ful cultiv a
Unn of Flower#. Fruit, ami Vegetables. Edited by 1) 1
FIHll Asdsted hr eminent authorities Illustrated through
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THE

SUB-TROPICAL GARDEN;

Op., liaAi tv of Form in the Flower Garden,

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CONTENTS.

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Part II. —Description, Arrangement, Culture,
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alphabetically arranged.

Part III. — Selections of Plants for various
purposes.

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HARDY FLOWERS.

Descriptions of upwards of Thirteen
Hundred of the

MOST ORNAMENTAL SPECIES,

And Directions for their Arrangement,
Culture, Ac.

By W. ROBINSON,

A uthor of “A Ipiue Flowers for English Gardens, ”
“ The Wild Garden" ike.

C O TsHT.E TrT T S.

INTRODUCTION.

Part I.

The Mixed Border for Hardy Flower*.

Hardy Flowers In the Mixed 8hrnbb?ry Border Beds and
Groups of Hardy Perennials, Ac.

Isolation of Haniy Plants.

1 lardy Perennials and Alpines as Bedding Plant*.

Hardy Alpine and Perennial Plants in the Rock-Garden, in
the Wild Garden, in Water, and in Boggy' Ground.

Hardy “ Florists' Flower*."

Hardy Flowers in tho Sprint:-Garden.

The Culture of Hardy Flowers.

The Propagation of Hardy Flower*.

Part II.

Alphabetical Arrangement of the most Ornamental Hardy
Flowers, with Description, Culture, Suitahle Positions,
ftc.

Now Species, or those omitted in preceding Part.

Tart III.

Selection of Hardy Flower* for Various Purpose*.

A Choice Selection of the very finest Herbaceous Perennials.

A Selection of the finest llaniy Bulbs, including lthlxoma-
tous Plants like the Irises and Hardy Orchid*.

A Selection of Choice Alpine and Rock Plant* suitable for
the Margins of Mixed Borders, Ac.

A Selection of tho most Ornamental Annual and Biennial
Plants.

A Selection of the finest Hardy Flower* that Bloom in
Spring.

A Selection of Autumn-blooming Hardy Flowers.

A Selection of Edging Plants.

A Selection of Plants for forming " Carpet* " beneath larger

subjects.

Hardy Plant* with Silvery or Variegated Foliage.

A Selection of Hardy Flowers suitablo for Naturalisation
in Wood*, Copae*, Hedgerow*, on Ruins. Rocky Banks,
and in various other Wild or Half-wild Place*.

A Selection of Fragrant Hardy Plants

A S lection of Herbaceous Plants, Ac. f that will grow
beneath the Shvlo of Tree*, and in Copses, Ac

A Selection of Haniy Perennials, Ac., suitablo for Exhlbi-
bition when grown in Pots.

A Selection of Ornamental Aquatic Plants.

A Selection of Plants thriving in Marshy or Boggy Ground.

Herbaceous and Alpine Plant*, Ac., that may with advan¬
tage be Raised from Seed.

List of Daarf Hardy Perennials and Alpine plant* with
Fern-like or Graceful Leaves, and suitable for Associa¬
tion with those distinguished by Beauty of Flowsr ia
Borders, the Rock-Garden, Ac.

A Selection of Haniy Perennials affording the finest effect*
in the Picturesque or “Sub Tropical” Garden.

A Selection of Hardy Plant* of Vigorous Habit an i Diotiocl
Character suited for planting in Semi-Wild place*, la
Pleasure Grounds, or near Wood-Walks.

A Selection of Ornamental Grasses.

Selection of Alpine and Rock Plants of Prostrats or Droop¬
ing Habit, suited for placing so that they mar dn*ipo»>f
the Brows of Rocks and like Positions. Trailers, Climben,
Ac , for Covering Bowers, Trellises, Railings, Old Trees,
Stumps, Hackwork, Banks, Ac.

Selection of Alpine and Rock Plant* for Growing on Od
Wall*, Ruins, Chalk Pits, Stony Banks, Ac.

List of Ferns that may be Grown with Advantage *w»v
from the Fernery Proper.

HARDY FLOWERS CLASSED ACCORDINO TO THEIR
COLOURS;

A Selection of Hardy Plant* w ith White Flower*.

A Selection of Hardy Plants with Red, Crimson, Scarlet
or Pinkish Flowers. •

A Selection of H.udy Plants with Blue, Bluish, or Purple
Flowers.

A Selection of Hardy Plants with Yellow Flower* la
Various Shades, or in which Yellow predominates

“ The author's object In this, *■ in *11 hi* books, is emi¬
nently practical, aud be has aimed at it with perhaps e**u
more than his usual distinctness and clearsightedness. ",J

Sotnnfay Review.

London: ifiio J'nliliihirg Office. 37, Sonthimptcn

IJIVERSmPW® —- -
1 URBAfWfmfc

t i

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. YI.

DECEMBER 27, 1884.

No. 303.

ROSES.

ROSA BRUNONIANA.

of the best of these were named. They are
1 Alfred Colomb, A. K. Williams, Camille Ber-
nardin, Charles Lefebvre, Comte Raimbaud, Dr.

This Himalayan species is of great value in the 1 ^ nd 7* TA D “ ke C on “ au # ht ’ £? ke °!r S? m '
picturesque garden Its milk white flowers are bjirgh, Duke of Teck Madame Victor Vcrdier,
is loose clusters, and their pure colour is en- Marle B^mann, “ d 1 k I »“ r ‘ oe Bernardin.
hsnced by the clear yellow group of stamens. T , A oeleot.on of the best twelve Tea-scented
Its glaucous-looking leaves are long and some- Ksses for exhibition and other purposes will be
what large, having nine leaflets ; they are f° u “ d , to b A the following: Anna Ollivier,
strangely blue and |ale in early summer, and Catherine Mermet, Comtesse de NadalUac,
droop in a graceful and peculiar fashion. It is a Devomensis, Gloire de Dijon, Jean Ducher,
vigorous grower, but as its habit is of a slender bIadame Falcot, Madame Lambard Mane \ an
and rather rambling character, it would be best Houtte. N.phetos, Perle des Jardins, and
used to grow through and among a group of Souvenir dElise ardon.

evergTeen shrubs, such as Junipers, for some . S 2, far thl3baa be ? n a ” extraordinary season
each informal treatment. O. J. for , R . oaeB - Many of them are quite evergreen,

_ | and in warm and sheltered positions, plants,

SELECTIONS OF ROSES.

Of recent years there has been a wonderful de¬
velopment in the way of Rose culture. The
National Rose Society has done much to en¬
courage this, while

especially of the Tea-scented varieties, have be¬
come quite active. It may be that the winter
through which we are passing is the third of a
cycle of mild winters, yet there is no knowing
how soon a time of sharp weather and killing

provincial societies,
by offering liberal
prizes, special and
otherwise, havfe
helped on the good
work and encour¬
aged many to take
up the culture of the
Rose. But it is only
here and there one
outBide the trade
can afford apace to
grow a sufficient
number of plants to
enable them to enter
for the leading prizes
given by the Na¬
tional Rose Society.

There are hundreds
of cultivators of the
Rose who cannot
grow more than
thirty or so varieties,
and their aspirations
are confined to the
competitions that
take place in connec¬
tion with local socie¬
ties. I am desirous
of helping these by
suggesting at this
season of the year,
when Rose planta¬
tions are being
formed, a list of
varieties that may
be grown for exhibi¬
tion. And it will be
found that the sorts
to be named may also
beaccepted as highly
desirable garden
Roses for merely de¬
corative purposes. Here is a list of twenty- ; frosts may come. We not long since saw on a
five Hybrid Perpetual® that are well suited for warm border a large plantation of Tea-scented
! purposes of exhibition :—Alfred Colomb, A. Roses showing signs of activity, but provision

Flower spray of Rosa Brunoui.uia, Howe s white (natural size), a free growing, hardy, single Rose.

Iv. Williams, Baroness Rothschild, Boue de
"Neige, probably the very best white Rose
grown ; Captain Christy, Charles Lefebvre,

I of which Marguerite Brassac and Paul Jamain
are said to be only synonyms; Comtesse
d’Oxford, Countess of Rosebery, a beau¬
tiful soft carmine rose-coloured flower; Dr.
indry, Duke of Connaught, a variety that, as

had been made against injury from frost by
mulching with a good layer of short manure,
and then placing over this a thick covering of
the decaying foliage from Asparagus beds.
Such plants protected in this manner could, let
the worst come, scarcely be cut down below the
snow line. The weather is unusually mild for
the season ; vegetation is becoming excited ; and

1 rule, seldom comes large enough for show pur- there is therefore need that precautionary

s, but yet sometimes it may be caught very
; Duke of Edinburgh, Edouard Morren,
Itienne Levet, John Hopper, La Duchesse de
lorny. La France, Gabriel Luizet, a light
livery pink flower of great beauty ; Hippolyte
.main, Madame Lacharme, Madame Victor
^erdier, Magna Charts, Marie Baumann,
'auric© Bernardin (syn., Exposition de Brie),
^rdinand de Lesseps, and Victor Verdier.

In some country shows it is the custom to
der prizes for stands of/crlmson and scarlet
^es, and gt may prove sfcvlc^abjc ij

measures be adopted. The rigours of March,
April, and May have yet to be encountered.

_ D.

Rose So uvenir de la Malmaison.—
In oool summe rs (which latterly have been the
rule rather than the exception), and in a some¬
what damp and sheltered situation, this Rose is
not only one of the earliest, but also one of the
most continuous and abundant of bloomers.
Budded on the Manetti, and planted 2 inches
(below the bud, and grown as a dwarf, with

scarcely any pruning, it quickly becomes a
dense bush, and produces a mass of bloom from
June to November ; nor will any of the blooms
be defective, unless injured by spring frosts, or
the temperature and dryness of the summer
must be greater than we have lately experienced.
Thorough drainage must be secured. The most
suitable soil is a sandy, gritty loam, not very
rich in vegetable manure; on the contrary,
rather supply liquid manure when needed. The
soil should be firm. By these means moderate
growth and well-ripened shoots will be the
result.—W. C. T.

Tea Rose Homere.— If this well-known
sort is planted in a good border and trained up
the roof of a house it is astonishing wh&t a
number of good blooms it will perfect in the
course of a year. It is one of the most
perpetual flowering Rosea we have, and with a
little heat, say an intermediate temperature, it
may be had nearly all the year round—not puny
discoloured blooms, as often seen in the open,
but large, full blos¬
soms, with nearly
white outer petals
and delicate flesh-
coloured centres.
The scent is very
good, and the foli¬
age also good and
serviceable. There
are many others I
like better for pot
culture.—W. I. M.

Gloire de Di¬
jon Rose on its
own roots. — Is
any advantage ob¬
tained by grafting
a Rose or any other
plant upon a stock
that is not stronger
or hardier than it¬
self ? I should say
ito ; but it has long
been done with other
Hoses, thereby mak¬
ing their propaga¬
tion more difficult
than need be. Grow¬
ing this Rose in Eng¬
land and Scotland,
and in the coldest
and latest districts
of both countries, I
should say it has
a constitution as
strong as the com¬
mon Brier itself, on
whichltgrowsfreely
and lives long, show¬
ing its strong affinity
to the stock ; but it
does equally well
propagated by cut¬
ting on its own
roots. We have it both ways here, and it
surpasses all other Roses for hardiness and
vigorous growth. Three-year-old plants from
cuttings are wonderfully strong, the shoots
being as thick as a walking stick, and very
long. When pegged down these shoots root
again, so that a bed of this Rose is soon filled.
The habit of Gloire de Dijon of blooming in
early summer, and again in autumn, at the
points of the current year’s shoots, not to speak
of its adaptability for greenhouse culture,
renders it a most valuable Rose ; and no wonder
nurserymen grow more of it than any other.
—C.

12331.— Cloth of Gold Roee.—If “ K. K.” were to
plant the Cloth of Gold Rose in a south or enst border it
would no doubt yield plenty of flowors ; yellow Rcscs, in
my experience, generally bloom only with a south, south¬
east, or east aspect.—W almbr.

Enormous Parsnip root —There is to bo seen
in the shop of Mr. James Grant, thoemaker, Auldearn,
Nairn, N.B., a root of tha enormous length of 3 feet
8 inches. It was grown in his own garden. ■ I thculd !\ko
to know if .’ 013 - of our gardenibg friends in t’ngland have
ever pulled ^| ^ ^

530

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 27, 1884.

_ T T A ra.A-D-n'RN by which some little time is gained, as the seeds already stated, liquid manure is the most p

THE VILLA GARDEN. J ke a time to germi ° ate> i8 to sow in valuable of all. This should be given in

(Continued from page 523 J boxes about the middle of March, and stand the summer during the time of growth, as that is

_ boxes in a gentle hotbed till the seeds germinate, | the time when the next year s heads are being ^

Aonsmonq and then move them to a light position close to formed ; and I may say

r? , . P . 8 * .. Wa the glass to strengthen and prepare them for Liquid Manure

A deep, rich, sandy loam is the most suitable p i ant fo g oufc> The transplanting from the boxes j? rom tbe f ann tank contains all in the way of
soil, and, if suited tj 1 / 8 P art ^ ula \^ e : to the beds must be carefully done, so that none manur i a i matter which the plants require,
climatic conditions can hardly be unfavourable, j but the very i on g ea t roots may be lost; and the ; when the third year comes round, if the plants ci
I know a garden where a good deal of expense 8bor tening process to which long roots have to J bavo done we n a f ew dishes may be had by
lias been incurred with Asparagus, and yet it Bubm j t j n transplanting is not altogether a loss, I 8 tealimr a head here and there, but there must ,■«

win not succeed ; cne pianw awmuie uuu a8 lt genera n y leads to the gam of a great many ^ n0 bar 8 h, ruthless dealing with the youDg

The situation is an elevated one, and the soil a root8 per haps better adapted for carrying on the p i ant8t Many plantations of Asparagus have
cold, heavy clay. The Asparagus is a fen work o{ the plftnt whether we transplant ^ en hopeletsly ruined by being too covetous
plant in its wild state, and the natural inference from the 8eed bed or f rom boxe8 in the way ] ft8t tfae b e„ inni ' The \oung plants die, and
is that a deep, rich, light soil, rather retentive BU g ge 8 ted, some time during the month of April un 8 i c htly blanks appear in the rows. Nothing
of moisture than not, is best for it; and heavy ( early or i ate j n the mo nth, according to the tbe w h 0 le culture of Asparagus requires so
clay, in the higher regions of the country, the 8eason ) i 8 the best time to plant. If there is muc h judgment as

worst. space under glass some time will be gained by ° ___

™ ... I’REPARINO the Land. _ Bowing the seeds in February in pans or pots, L?f^Eni w. w.

in a hotbed, potting off as

No matter how much care and skill have been

The old-fashioned plan of growing Asparagus and p f aciDg them in a hotbed, potting off as , No matter how much care and skiU have been a
in beds is giving way to the modern system of soon as they are large enough to move, and bestowed upon the raising of the plants an t e

culture in single rows, at rather wide intervals. growing them under glass till May, shifting the preparation of the land, if the knife be used

When we know the requirements of a plant, the p i anta into larger pots as they require it. This recklessly the result will be failure. Until the
best way of working up to those requirements [ 8 rea q y an excellent plan, gaining pretty well P lant ® 8 et ver y strong it is better to take only

should be kept steadily in view, although we a BCa80 ' in int of t ime. f he b £ at laQ is to a head here and there than to cut all, as may be

may not be able to accomplish all this at once. make a £ light hotbed 0 f leaves for the plants done with impunity in the case of older, stronger
Asparagus does not thrive well in cold, heavy after tbey are p^ted 0 ff and j n April draw off plants. Many people, in dealing with estab-

clays, but, in the majority of instances, the the light8 on tine days, covering up again at lished plantations, cut everything which comes

natural soil maybe so altered as to be rendered n j g ht, planting out about the middle of May. U P till B0 ™ e specified tune which has been
suitable at a reasonable cost. The first thing A * d now come tbe que 8 tions, How shall w’e found best in that particular latitude, Speak -

to be done in such cases is to burn a lot of the plant ? j 8 it best to ^ ing generally, the time will, probably, be from

clay and use the ashes to open up the remainder, p o TvrTW Rmv? the 20th to the end of June. To cut after that

and then add as much manure, and sand, and ,L time usually weakens the beds too much and

suitable at a reasonable cost. The first thing
to be done in such cases is to burn a lot of the
clay and use the ashes to open up the remainder,
and then add as much manure, and sand, and

ana tnen aaa as mucn manure, anu 0r • , a.j WA in finals J “ 7 .

lime as can be conveniently obtained. This work , , ® ^ „ m. leads to the plants dying, and this is the chief

should be done in autumn, say in September ro ^ 8 » ho ^ muo ! 1 8 P ace sha11 intervene . The old cause of blanks arising in the beds, which cause
end OctoberT aid, after trenching and inter- jystem of growing Asparagus in bed, i. yteWrng so mach annoyance, \ nd are 80 troublesome to
mUing, the „urfa«> should be left rough till to tb . e &“ °* “”S ,a “dependent rows. Some fiu ickly a J wel , afterwards. In thrusting
Marc* Toobtein fine produce there must be people think this is a new idea borrowed from the \ nif / int0 the gronnd to cut a head, we
vigour and strength of crown, and though much J he French, but it is nothing of the sort, for a mu8t ireful that none of the advancing
of g thU vigour may be obtained by increasing fcw fW a g° I was running my eye through 8hoot8 „„ injared . This DOt an imaginary
the space commonly allotted to each plant,_ yet, heghlningo^ tLpV^ent^century.andthcre danger> and that Uthe reason 1 mention it.
in order to sustain them a ® r w , I find the single row system recommended. In Varieties.

y.gorous condition^he land must be well done field culturo 6 or in den8 j have no There are several varieties in the catalogues

In Asparagus culture, all other things dicing doubt . q Qwn mind b ifc 6 wi n pay bet ter to of the best houses, but it is questionable if all
equal, success is usually in P ro P®^|®“ have the rows at least 12 feet apart, with are distinct. But there are certainly two—the

condition of the land, and its condition t c a in the intervals between. The purple and the green—and I do not think there

be kept up without a good deal of manure and ^ . q ^ rowg be from 15 to 18 inche8 i8 much to choose between them. Probably if we
it is very important that the land should be well £ Under thU By J 8tem the work could be obtain a pac ket of seeds and sow them we shall

H, IS very .. apart> Under this system the work could be obtain a packet of seeds and sow them we shall

prepared at the outset. cheaply done, as most of it could be done with obtain both varieties from that packet. I do

Raising the Plants. horse labour. I often wonder, in these bad days not siy it is'not possible to purchase them, and

This is always done from seeds sown in for agriculture, someone does not start an really have them separate. I can only say I

spring. Asparagu^ even under the most favour- Asparagus farm on this system, as during the have generally had them mixed. There is a

able circumstances, requires a good deal of time time of waiting for the crop, which is the chief variety called the Colossal, bnt I am doubtful
before it yields any return. It is not often that objection ur^ed against it by the most intelligent if it is really distinct. It is probably only a
any produce can be cut before the third year farmers, who are looking for something to selection from the old kind. However, at first
after planting unless very strong roots are partially take the place of Wheat, the land it does seein more vigorous, and on that account

planted, and if anything can be done to shorten would at least be paying expenses. In small it is worth growing in order to save time. In

that long probationary time it is worth knowing, gardens single rows of Asparagus might be saving seeds, select those from the most
When plants have to be bought I have always planted in any suitable situation. On dry vigorous stem 3 , gathering them when ripe,

used those of one year’s growth from the seed ; porous soils it is best to plant in slight hollows and when the pulp which surround the seeds

but if the land is in first-rate trim in March I 0 r trenches, as the plants love moisture, and is quite soft, wash the seeds from among
should prefer to sow the seeds in the place this will at the same time facilitate the earthing it, dry them, and pack them away in a dry cool
where they are to remain. Transplanted plants up Q f the crowns to blanch the stems as place till they are required. Asparagus seeds
always lose a little time in establishing them- they arise. Much difference of opinion will keep good several years. I do not know

selves, and if they are kept out of the ground exists as to which is best, the blanched exactly how many, but I have sown them and

any length of time they will lose strength. In 0 r the unblanched Asparagus. I like the obtained a good crop of plants when four years

making an ^paragus plantation on a site not medium way best, blanch the lower part of the old.

quite nrst-rlle, it is far better to sow the seeds stem, but let the top 3 inches be above ground. Value of String Shelter.

on the site, and not transplant, than to buy ; With the bed system we may either have the The early Asparagus is often injured by cold,
and it would be the worst practice to import beds 3 feet wide with two rows of plants, or f r0 sty weather in spring, and any shelter'which
plants from a superior kind of soil to an inferior 5 feet wide occupied with three rows. In either wd i bre ak the force and take away the bleaknets
one, as the probabilities are many of the plants case there will be 2 feet always dividing them Q f the east wind in April, and oftentimes in May,
would dwindle and die, and the plantation for the purpose, giving free access to gather the wd i 0 f rea i benefit to the young heads of
would be a failure. I have a case in my mind produce, &c. Whichever plan is adopted the Asparagus just pushing out. The beat shelters
where a clergyman, living in an upland district, first two years everything must be done to en- ar e movable glass frames, and with a number
had a present of a lot of one year Asparagus courage growth. Liquid manure will be of 0 f these Asparagus may be cut very much earlier
plants from a friend living in the Fens—strong, great service, and rich top-dressings should be f ro m the open air bed than is generally done,
vigorous plants, with robust-looking crowns; given in autumn, but, of course there must be They should be placed on the beds the begin-
but they could not accommodate themselves to nothing cut from the bed during those two first n i ng 0 f February, after they can be spared from
their altered circumstances, and turned out a years. In windy places, until the growth the autumn and winter salads, and they will
complete failure. Had seeds been sown on the becomes strong and self-supporting, a stake come j n f or hardening youDg bedding stuff
spot, and the young plants thinned out to the an d a tie should be given to the strongest w hen the Asparagus beds do not require their
requisite distance as soon as large enough to stems to prevent the wind wrenching them, as shelter. If glazed frames are not available, dry
make a selection, time would have been gained, everything depends upon the production of 8 p ra ys of Bracken scattered over the beds will
In fact, I always think Asparagus plants strong growth, and then perfect development b © very useful. Branches of Hazel, such as are
should be raised at home, if possible; where and ripening. Sometimes a stolen crop of some commonly used for Pea sticks, laid over the beds
it is not convenient to. sow on tho site of the kind of vegetable or salad is taken from the beds a ff or d a good deal of shelter, and may, in cold
proposed plantation, it is customary to sow the first year ; but, if permitted, it should be of {situations, be profitably employed without
and prepare the bed in some other part of the the briefest, lightest character, such as Radishes being taken from their original purpose,
garden. Sometimes the seeds are sown broad- or Lettuces, or a light crop of Cauliflowers, £ Hol»'AY.

cast and covered from a quarter to half an inch selecting a email early kind such as Veitch’s
deep with light, rich soil ; and, if the surface of Forcing. Some people attach a good deal of im-

the soil be dry, just flattened down with the portance to salt as a manure for Asparagus, and Locality.—May I surest that tho value of many o

back of the spade ; but I prefer to sow in drills in some instances, especially on porous soil, it the letter* in Gardening Illustrated would be preatlj
half an inch deep, and about 8 or 9 inches apart, would do good, but in no case should more than increased if the writers would add at least the corniy ii

half-a-pornd to the «,««. yard be «ivea

Another way pt rawing t plants, aud Plenty of manure there must be, and, as I have even when the soil is cai dully described. -U. A. N.

will only occupy th

e bed one year. I half-a-pornd to the square yard be jtaa I

plants, aud l Plenty of manure there must be, and, as I have' even when the soil is carefully described.-U. A. N.

URBAr

IHAMPAIGN

Dec. 2?, 1884.]

GARDENING illustrated

531

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

Jaemlmim nudiflonim.— Anyone having
vacant spaces on their house or other walls
should furnish them with this Jasmine. We
have had it flowering on both east and south
aspects for a few weeks past, and it will con¬
tinue in good condition for many weeks to come.
It is very useful at this dull season of the year in
a cut state when arranged with some suitable
green material. Some shoots of it have, I notice,
got intermixed with those of Cotoneaster, which
forms a pleasing background for them, the
coral red berries of that charming wall plant
contrasting well with the bright yelio w blossoms
of the Jasmine.

Seedling Primulas. — Hardy Primroses
and Polyanthuses of the ordinary decorative kind
(as in the case of Anemones) are never seen to
better advantage than when raised from seeds
sown every year. The best time to sow is in
summer or autumn as spon as the seed ripens
upon the plant. In this way a good stock of
fresh young plants is obtained for planting oat
every spring. If any varieties of exceptional
merit are thus raised, they may be increased by
division as in the case of named florists’ varie¬
ties. One can never have too many Primroses
for spring bloom, and as good strains of seed
are now obtainable, no garden need lack these
gems of the opening year. Some rich,
dark velvety Polyanthuses and gold-laced
varieties (seedlings) sent to me by a friend last
year were really lovely in a Holly-sheltered
nook beneath a graceful bit of Japanese Bamboo.
Above all others for decorative work are to be
prized those Giant Polyanthuses of the Cloth
of Gold, Butter and Eggs, and Golconda race,
great Oxlipa of all shades of yellow and orange,
and some with huge trusses of a Daffodil-like
gold 1

Auouba japonica. —With me the regu¬
larity with which this Aucuba fruits every year
b somewhat remarkable ; it is even more
regular in bearing a crop of berries than the
Pyracantha, and that is saying a good deal.
Not the least interesting matter pertaining to
the Atxcnba, too, is the fact that it fruits even
if the male and female plants are a hundred
yards or more apart. I have also observed that
since our plants have borne heavy crops of
berries they have not grown nearly so fast as
they did before doing so—a circumstance which
dearly shows that the production of fruit in
the ease of this plant has its drawbacks,
although the fruit is so attractive when ripe.—

j. a

Veronica Andersonl. — This useful
autumn and winter flowering plant is most
acceptable for lengthening the season of out¬
door flowers, as it i* hardy enough to withstand
several degrees of frost without injury to its
blossoms. The Veronica grows freely in any
light, well-drained soil, and on the south coast
is a great favourite with amateur gardeners, as
it makes fine bushes, that are at all times pre¬
sentable, and especially valuable during the
winter months, when flowers are scarce out-of-
doors, its rosy blossoms and shining foliage
being of great service in helping the floral
display, and in localities where it is not safe to
trust this plant out during the winter months,
they may be utilised for decorating the con¬
servatory. I And young plants put out in
nursery beds in April, about 1 foot apart, make
nice, useful plants for lifting in the autumn,
and the variegated form of V. Andersoni make
a very useful foliage plant, not only for outdoor
bedding during the summer, but also under
glass in winter.—J. G., Hants.

“Wreath Nasturtium (Tropaeolum poly-
phyllum) and Flame Nasturtium (Tropteolum
speciosum).—I was much interested in the
short article on these which appeared in a late
number. Would the writer give further par¬
ticulars as to when and how to plant ? I have
seen what I suppose to be the Flame Nasturtium
covering a large part of a small house facing
south in the Romford Road, near London,
presenting a very handsome and striking appear¬
ance. I am anxious so to cover my house.—L.

A pretty rook plant —Dentaria poly-
phylla is one of the prettiest of all the spring-
flowering Crucifers. In d^mp, sheltered spots
on the rockery, wher«f its pplfWfow

flowers are somewhat protected from piercing
winds, they may be seen in full beauty in Febru¬
ary. As a pot plant for cool conservatory deco¬
ration, it is thoroughly well worth growing.
Besides beiog one of the rarest and most hand¬
some of the European species of the genus, it is
also one of the most interesting, by reason of the
peculiarities in its geographical distribution.
In Switzerland Dentaria polyphylla is found in
the humid ravines of some of the Pine and Fir
forests.

The Early Forget-me-not.— Myosotis
dissitiflora is certainly one of the most charm¬
ing hardy flowers in cultivation. Single well-
developed plants are very effective, but to
see what this plant is capable of it should
be planted in clumps of a dozen or more plants
together ; then the mass of lovely blue is very
striking. The first time I saw this charming
Forget-me-not was in Covent Garden Market,
where, at a certain time of year, it sells very
well; and this reminds me of the great amount
of pleasure to bo derived from giving it the
shelter of a frame or cool greenhouse in winter.
Unlike its near relation, M. sylvatica, which is so
commonly seen in small gardens, it has an
element of tenderness in it, which renders it a
prey to very hard winters and inclement springs.
For this reason it has never become so
thoroughly popular as it would otherwise have
done. It is, however, so much superior to the
hardier kinds when it does well that everyone
should grow a few plants of it. Placed under

The early Forget-me-not (Myosotis dissitiflora).

the friendly shelter of a glass roof it comes into
bloom early, and naturally exhibits a perfection
of development not always attained in the open.
When the old plants have done blooming they
may be pulled to pieces and dibbled into a shady
border. Seedlings are, however, best, and
these are sure to come up during the summer
where plants have bloomed the preceding
spring.— Byflket.

Hellebores. —Apotheker Bogren appears to
be the best of the spotted section of this family.
It is early, free flowering, and the individual
flowers are of large size and clear in colour ; the
latter is a soft light rosy purple, literally
covered with crimson spots. 1 presume it is a
hybrid. There are few hardy plants better
worth pot culture, and the same may be said
of H. Commerzienrath Benary, illustrated lately
in Gardening. It is a later kind, nearly pure
white, also abundantly spotted with crimson-
in fact, pot cultivation seems to be the proper
one for this section, as from the pendant harnt
of the blooms the lovely interior markings are
lost out in the border.—J. M., Dorset .

Planting Ranunculuses. — I shall make
two beds of these early in the year. It is a little
early, but the soil is warm and dryish, and does
not retain much moisture, and, except a great
change comes, I do not anticipate any harm.
Here we have had practically no winter this
year. I am now only referring to the more
tender Persian Ranunculus, for the hardier and
more robust French, and the too seldom seen
semi-double Meladores, and that grand strain,
the Cockade Ranunculus, aB well as the home
grown Turbans, are all over the ground, and '

were planted out last Octobef. Surely those
grand, showy, outdoor flowers, that exacted so
much admiration from onr grandsires, are
deserving of encouragement from Gardening,
that has done so much to banish mere glare and
geometric formality in the flower grounds !
There is hardly any soil or situation in which
the hardier and more robust kinds will not
succeed. All of us should grow some of them.—
W. J. M., Clonmel.

The Nile Lily. —Much has been written of
late in the pages of Gardening in favour of the
Lily of the Nile (Calla rethiopica), but I think
that half of its beauties have not yet been told.
To see it growing as luxuriantly as in its native
country one should see it in the Scilly Isles.
Last December I saw a sight not soon to be for¬
gotten, and such as could not be seen elsewhere
in any other part of the British Isles. A friend
of mine had nearly a quarter of an acre planted
with these plants, the greater part of which
were in bloom. Some of the spathes measured
over 4 feet from the base to the point.
Hundreds of these blooms were cat, and sent to
London and other markets for Christmas decora¬
tions. Here in the Scilly Isles this plant is an
evergreen, consequently the time of trans¬
planting them is more a matter of convenience
than otherwise. I have just finished setting
out a bed of seedlings raised from seed sown in
May of the present year, some of the most for¬
ward of them measured 9 inches in height, and
young rootlets were formed round the crowns.
The period of blooming here is from December
to June.—J. C. Tonkin, Scilly Isles.

Eucalyptus globulus.— Your correspon¬
dent in the issue of the 6th inst. seems to bo
proud of his Gum tree, and well he may be, for
his tree has made good growth. But if he
should ever visit the Scilly Isles he could see in
the Abbey Gardens at Tresco the largest, un¬
doubtedly, in the British Isles. It measures
GO feet in height, with a girth of 9 feet of trunk,
in those gardens a great number of them of
various sizes may be seeD. In its native country
it attains the height of some 400 feet, with a cir¬
cumference of 60 feet at the base of the trunk.
This tree is said to absorb its own weight of
moisture in twenty-four hours, and has been
found to greatly improve the sanitary condition
of malarious districts. It has been extensively
planted at Cyprus.— J. C. Tonkin, Scilly Isles.

12394.— TropsBOlum Lobbianum.— The
brilliant scarlet creeper that grows so well at
Bettws-y-loed is Tropa;olum speciosum, a
tuberous-rooted variety, and may be had from
seedsmen. Tropaeolum Lobbianum Townsoni is
the most brilliant and free-flowering of this
variety, and is raised from cuttings annually.
The fronts of the houses in Bowden are a mass
of its brilliant flowers down to October and
November.-H. W.

12356.—Dahlias In the open ground.— If the soil
is fairly light they will keep very well, but they will need
good protection against frost. They should be covered
with quite 4 inches of litter or ashes, and if arranged in the
form of a mound so much the better, as the heavy rains
will in a measure be thrown off. With us Dahlias left in
the ground lost winter bloomed well this past summer, but
both winter, summer, and spring were dry, which preserved
the roots in good condition.—J. C. B.

- In mild winters the Dahlia tubers may be left out

all the winter.but it is a very risky thing to do, as they are
killed should the frost reach them; besides, should they live
through the winter, the plants are not nearly so satisfactory
as propagated cuttings. The best way is to lift and dry
the tubers, afterwards storing them in a dry placo for the
winter where frost cannot reach them.—J. D. K.

- Many tubers will keep Bound in the ground during

the winter, but the frost will catch tho young growth in
the spring and kill them.—K.

12355.— Culture of Echeverias.—I would advise
“ Mrs. R." to take up all her Echeverias if not already
done, and take off all the young suckers attached to them,
and plant them all in boxes in pretty good soil, after
which put them in cold frames near the glass, and give
air in favourable weather, I have got over three hundred
at present treated in this way.—C ahpbt.

12346 — Ivy on walls.— If the Ivy is kept trained over
the brick edging and prevented from running up the wall,
by persevering in clipping and training I think it will,
in time, grow over and attach itself to the brick.—K.

Wild Mignonette (Reseda lutea).—A perennial
Mignonette which grows well out-of-doors, and which I
find very useful for placing with flowers in vases. It has
the property of growing in water and lasting for weeks in
an ordinary room. It shows up well by lamp-light. Tho
plant is quite hardy and flowers in long spikes, but is
nearly scentless.—E. R. M.

Chrysanthemums.—The following are very fine
sorts:—Chinaman. J. Delaux, James Salter, King cf
Crimsons, Lady Selbomo, L’Incomparable, Madame C.
Desgrange, Meg Merrilies, M. J. C. d'Equllior, Orphic,
Rubra Btiiata. thaaberg.-K. : LU I AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

532

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 27, 1884.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

Asparagus and Seakale beds.—This
is the beat time to prepare beds of these useful
vegetables, for although the actual planting
need not be performed until the days begin to
lengthen, the work of preparing the beds should
ba done as early in the winter as possible, so
that the surfaoe soil may get mellow and friable
by exposure to the atmosphere. For amateur
gardeners the plan of lifting the roots of these
vegetables and forcing them in heated struc¬
tures is not so well suited as it is for market
growers, or for large private places, and it is far
better to have some really good permanent beds
well made at first that will yield a good supply for
manyyears with but very little need of renewal.
The preparation of the soil by deep trenching
is of the highest importance for crops that
stand for years in one place. Where a good
depth of soil exists at least two spits deep should
be thoroughly broken up, and manure mixed
with it as the work proceeds, and in the
neighbourhood of the sea coast a good dressing
of Seaweed should be applied aa it suits mari¬
time plants extremely well. After the soil has
laid up roughly for some time, it should be
forked over, and a dressing of salt applied, and,
as soon as growth commences, the most favour¬
able season for planting has arrived. Asparagus
should be planted in beds 4 feet wide, two rows
of plants being ample if fine heads are desired.
Thoy should be planted just as the young

frowth begins to show above ground, April
eing the most favourable month for planting as
a rule, although locality must be studied with
this as with other crops. After planting is com¬
plete, a mulching on the surface of half rotten
manure will be found of the greatest service in
keeping the roots iu an equable state as
regards moisture, and checking extreme
fluctuations of temperature. As the top
growth progresses, some short Pea-sticks
should be put in between the rows to preserve
the tops from being broken off by wind.
Seakale is usually propagated by root cuttings,
and good crowns ht for forcing are grown in
one season ; but for forming permanent beds I
like one-year-old Beedlings, as they are not so
liable to rot off, and are altogether more
vigorous. The seed of both Seakale and
Asparagus may be sown in drills 1 foot apart on
light, friable soil, and, beyond keeping free from
weeds, very little attention is needed the first
season, and when the tops die down naturally
the work of transplautiug the Seakale may be
pushed on, and the young Asparagus will be ;
ready in April. In planting Seakale three
plants should be put in a clump sufficiently
close for a large forcing pot to cover them, the
clumps should be at least a yard apart each way.
They Bhould not be forced the first season, but
after that they may be covered with their
forcing pots in December, and a good depth of
leaves, and long manure enough to generate a
gentle heat. r lhat will bring Seakale beauti¬
fully blanched in about six weeks from the
date of covering, and by the aid of about two
dozen forcing pots, and covering a few roots at
a time, a succession of forced Kale may be had
for a long time, as the nearer it gets to the
natural season of growth, the less heat will it
take to force the Seakale into growth ; but the
pots must be completely covered to exclude
light and ensure perfect blanching, without
which the Kile is hard, stringy, and hardly
recognisable as the same vegetable. After
forcing, the old crowns should be cut off level
with the ground, and they will then develop
new crowns —J. Gh, HanU.

Snow’s Winter White Broccoli. —
Thanks to the prevalence of mild weather, an un¬
interrupted supply of Broccoli has been procur¬
able from open fields during the whole of the
winter ; no sooner was Autumn Giant exhausted
than the early winter kinds of Broccoli began to
come in, and lately Snow’s Winter White, nearly
a foot in diameter, as firm as cricket balls, has
been plentiful. The system of culture in open
fields is to allow plenty of room both in the seed
bod and between the roots—treatment under
which the plants becomedwarf and stocky. The
seed is sown broadcast in March thinly ;
th irefore to keep down weeds little hoes can be
worked amongst fcho young seedlings. These
soon form robust plants, and in May or June
they are planted otLt^ yard apart on deeply-

Digitized by CjOOglC

ploughed land that has been cloared of other
crops, or between every second row of Potatoes,
and beyond keeping them clean very little in
the way of cultivation is needed until the heads
are fit for cutting. Broccoli grown in this way
is decidedly superior to that grown in close-
walled gardens, where it invariably gets grown
up lanky and t&ll, while the size of the heads
depends more on the size of the stems than on
the length and ahuudance of the leaves. Al¬
though winter Broccoli is a precarious crop,
owing to sudden visitations of severe frost, a
good selection of Snow’s Winter White is a valu¬
able vegetable for either market or private use.
When it comes in too fast it may be kept back
for a considerable time if laid in by the heels and
covered with litter if sharp frost sets in.—J. G.

Mushrooms. —A correspondent asks if
there is any way of growing Mushrooms out¬
doors by spawn or other artificial means. If he
has or can get stable manure, and will go to the
trouble of making up beds after the manner of
those formed by growerB for market, he will be
able to grow Mushrooms out-of-doors. Growers
for market get their manure, as a rule, from
London, they shake out some of the straw, and
put it in heaps to ferment. This it soon does,
when it should be turned to let out the fiery
gases, and moderate the heat, when it is ready
for putting together. The way to make the
beds is to place the manure ridge fashion, say
3 feet or 4 feet through at the bottom and
about the same in height, making it narrow at
the ridge and treading it down quite firm as
the work proceeds. When thus made up and
the heat has subsided to 75 degs. or 80 degs., it
is ready for spawning. This should be done
by making holes in the sides of the bed a foot
or so apart. In these put pieces of spawn about
the size of small Apples, aud cover the bed
thickly with long straw to ward off wet and
maintain an equable temperature. In a couple
of weeks or so the spawn will have run suffi¬
ciently for the bed to be earthed up, which
should be done by placing an inch thick of soil
all over it and patting it down firm and smooth.
Then replace the straw as a protection to the
Mushrooms, which will make their appearance
in eight or ten weeks. To be successful the
site for the bed must be a high and dry one, for
if low, and water lies or soaks into the manure,
it will drown and perish the spawn, and failure
will be the result. If the object is to have
Mushrooms during summer, the position chosen
for the beds should be’ a cool, shaded one,
a good place being in an orchard under trees, or
at the back of a north wall or building where
the sun does not shine, as Mushrooms cannot
endure hot air and must have plenty of atmo¬
spheric moisture, in imitation of what they get
naturally when they come up in pastures and
other places during the autumn. The thick
covering helps to give them this, as it arrests
evaporation, and the vapour escaping from the
soil is held in suspension under the straw.
Even in some Mushroom houses it is necessary
to cover the beds, as when the houses are lofty
or not closely ceiled, the atmosphere becomes
arid, and the Mushrooms die off as soon as they
show themselves through the bed.—S. D.

12371.— Forming Asparagrus bed.— To

Srow this valuable vegetable to perfection, the
rat thing is to choose a nice open plot of
good, deep, rich soil, manure heavily, and
trench or double dig in the autumn, leaving
the surface in a rough state, and by the
latter end of March or beginning of April,
when in good working order, prepare the
beds. The most convenient-sized beds for weed¬
ing, cleaning, &c., we find are those about
5 feet 6 inches wide, with four rows of plants,
each plant 15 inches apart. The plants should
be very carefully planted, spreading the roots
evenly and straight, and making them secure.
When more than one bed is wanted leave paths
between 18 inches wide, which should be made
use of by forking in the previous mulchings and
cleanings and planting with early London
Cauliflower. You can purchase Asparagus
plants, two years old (Conover’s Colossal), fr ,, m
any good nurseryman, thus making a new bed
every year you keep up the stock for forcing,
when that is requisite ; but I may say when
forcing is carried on to auy large extent the beds
are generally in the old-fashioned system—in
rows 3 feet apart, and no paths—where it re¬
mains since it was sown. Of course I am refer¬

ring to large gardens, but I consider it the least
trouble. Another way I can mention, which, no
doubt, in some gardens quite repay the enor¬
mous labour—viz., in getting the soil out to a
depth of 3 feet G inches, and running a drain
down the centre and G inches of brickbats, which
forms a good drainage, and then filled in with
good turf and manure, and planted in the
former way. A moderate dressing of salt is very
beneficial once or twice a year. The sowing of
Asparagus seed should take place in the begin¬
ning of April in good ground previously pre¬
pared, and sown rather thickly in drills.
Great care must be taken in cleaning the beds,
as the seedlings are so very minute at first.
Some people plant at one year old, and by the
second year they are good strong plants for
permanent planting. — J. T. Smith, Derby. .

-The simplest way to niako nu Asparagus bed IS to

trench the ground to a depth of 3 feet, if it can be done bo
deeply, and in doing thi9 place three good layers of manure
in the trenches as the work progresses. This should be
done in the autumn. In March retrench the ground, which
will well mix the manure with the soil. As soon as the
Asparagus commences to grow, it should be planted out,
four rows of plants in one bed, and they ought to be at least
15 inches apart.—J. D. E.

Celery maggot —The simplest and most effective
\vay of destroying this troublesomo pest is dusting the
leaves w ith soot on its first appearance, repeating tho soot
application as often as it is washed off by rains. Such
dustings are also beneficial to the Celery in other ways,
besides saving the leaves from being materially injured
by the grub.—J. D. E.

Forming and repairing lawns.—It has
been said, and with truth, that there is nothing
which adds so great a charm to English home¬
steads as the lawns or Grass plots that are
generally to be found surrounding them ; and as
the season to form, relay, or repair them is now
approaching, a few remarks as to the proper
mode of procedure may possibly be useful. In
forming new lawns, it is hardly necessary to Bay
that their extent must be dependent on the
ground at command ; every endeavour should,
however, be used to make them as roomy as
possible, and towards this end much may be
done by placing tho shrubs and trees, or at least
the greater part of them, as far away from the
house as the boundary will permit; any that
stand out ought to be of the best kind. A lawn
need not necessarily be flat or level; it may, on
the contrary, be undulating, according to the
natural formation of the ground. In preparing
the latter for the turf, the most important thing
is to see that any portion which has been moved
is well rammed, for if not it will be continually
subsiding, and nothing looks worse than little
hollows caused by the settling of the earth.
Another important matter to bear in mind is
that the soil of lawns should not be rich, for if
so the Grass not only grows fast, but coarse, and
it is impossible under such circumstances to get
a good thick bottom or keep it in anything like
the perfect order attainable when the roots are
leas fed. This being so, it is a good plan to use
sand, or to cart poor earth for the levelling and
finishing off of the top, but when so applied it
should bo put on regularly.or the Gross will be
patchy, which will spoil the effect of the whole.

The levelling being completed and the surface
raked smooth and fine, the next thing is to either
sow seed or use turf, the latter being by far the
best way, for though it involves more labour,
time, and expense, the work is at once complete,
while if seed be sown it takes a year to get a

?;ood bottom. The most suitable turf is that
rom pastures and waste places by the road-side
which have been closely fed off and the Grass is
short and fine, with a sprinkling of white Clover
in it. If turf of this kind can be got a fine lawn
may soon be made. The most handy turves to
work with are those a yard long and a foot wide,
and the thinner they are, so long as they will
hang together, the easier they will roll and lay
down again. No open joints should ^be left for
the air to get in ; to prevent this it is a good
plan to pass the roller over the turves quickly
after they are down, so as to press them to the
earth, in which the GrasB will soon take root.

If any inequalities of surface should by chance i
ex ist after the roller has beenused, theymayeasily
j b® beaten down by means of a rammer when the
ground is soft. Where fine turf cannot be had
and seed has to be sown, it should be got specially
for the purpose from a seedsman, as that other¬
wise obtained is full oU weeds, and never makes *
a good lawn. The time to sow is about the middle
.of Maroh, Whefl too seed should be-scattered
svenljT over the lurface bjfi fihe fiuely-raked

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Dec. 27 , 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

533

ground and Blightly covered, after which, if;
birds are kept from scratching it out and devour¬
ing it, it soon germinates and grows at a quick
rate if the weather proves favourable. Lawns
that are in a thin, patchy condition may be im-

Eroved in two ways : the one by cutting out the
are or worn parts and relaying with fresh turf,
and the other by a top-dressing of rich, finely-
sifted soil, to which should be added some soot
and fresh slaked lime, which will not only stimu¬
late the Grass and give it a rich deep green
colour, but will also kill all Moss, which on
some lawns is very troublesome and if not
checked or destroyed soon gets entire possession.
Daisies and Plantains, too, are often a nuisance,
and to eradicate these weeds there is no plan
better than cutting or digging them out, which,
unless they are thick, is no great task if set
about in real earnest with a sharp and suitable
tool.—D. S.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

Camellias cannot withstand dryness at the
roots, and when this happens, particularly when
they are making their growth, they become
stunted, the roots are weakened, and the flower-
buds fail without opening ; this will also occur
if the atmosphere be too dry when they ought
to be expanding. They must not, however, be
over-watered.

Sow Palm seeds in pans or boxes of loamy
soil; the boxes may be kept in any odd corner
until the seeds have germinated, when they
must be placed in a more promiuent position.
Sow some Cyclamens in an intermediate tempe¬
rature and keep the pans containing the seeds
near the glass. Sow Fern spores in rough peat,
either in pans or pots, under bell-glasses, &c.
Pot off the seedlings as they become fit for that
operation, and also give older seedlings a shift.

Introduce Pelargoniums, Verbenas, Lobelias,
Tropreolnms, Lantanas, Coleuses, Jresines, Al-
ternantheras, Mesembryanthemum cordifolium,
and similar plants into a brisk moist tempera¬
ture, to start them into growth for cuttings.
Keep roots of Cannas in pots dry by building
the pots one above another in some dry cool
place.

If seeds of the silver-leaved Centaureas be
now sown in a warm pit or frame they will
make fine plants by bedding-out time; they
should be sown in shallow pans in fine soil,
containing a little sand and well-rotted leaf-
mould ; let the seeds be only just covered with
soil, and keep it slightly damp. Ageratums
which have to be raised from seeds may be
treated in the same way. Golden Pyrethrum is
best raised from seed, as, propagated in this
way, the plants have not such a disposition to
flower, and are finer than those obtained from
cuttings or division ; sown now in warmth they
will soon be up, they can then be placed in
boxes or pots.

Verbenas, more particularly the white kinds,
are very liable to the attacks of mildew ; on its
first appearance they must be dusted with sul¬
phur. It will be well now to put the store
plants of Verbenas in a little heat to cause them
to push young growth for cuttings ; 50 degs. by
night will suit them well; let them be on a shelf
or in some place where they will receive plenty
of light, and keep them regularly supplied with
water ; an application of liquid manure once a
week will be beneficial to them, and will cause
the production of more cuttings. Heliotropes,
Lobelias of the speciosa section, and Ageratums
should also be put in warmth, for if the cuttings
be not soft and young they do not root so readily.
Humea elegans sown last summer have plenty
of roots, shift them now in pots big enough to
serve till planting-out time arrives. Green fly
must be guarded against, for if left for any
length of time undisturbed it spoils the leaves.

Flower Garden.

Any ground yet unturned should be dug over
as soon as practicable : if for Dahlias, Foxgloves,
Hollyhocks, or other strong growing gross-feed¬
ing plants U36 plenty of manure ; but if for
pelargoniums, or other plants that are required
to produce abundance of flowers and to keep
dwarf in growth, a dressing of leaf mould will
be more beneficial. Lay up the ground quite
roughly in order that tins frost, wind, and sun
may ameliorate and sweeten it. Baalj vp-the

surface of gravel walks, but not so deeply as to
disturb the rubble in the bottom ; and, if neces¬
sary, apply a coating of fresh gravel. Roll ,
Grass verges, so that they may not appear
too high above the gravel when cut. Protect
all tender plants with mulchings and temporary
light coverings against frost. In the case of
flower beds, the surface soil should be slightly
loosened whenever the weather is dry, but not
so deeply as to injure bulbs planted therein.
Push forward, as much as possible, such
operations as involve the removal of soil or
the wheeling of gravel, eompost, and manure ;
remove overgrown or superfluous trees from
the lawns or elsewhere during dry weather.
When the weather is such as to stop the
progress of all operations in the open air,
attend to the preparation of stakes, labels, and
Birch besoms, <&c., all of which will be found
useful as the season advances.

Many bulbs and hardy herbaceous plants cul¬
tivated in the open border disappear altogether
during winter, and their crowns are not unfre-
quently injured by being trampled upon, unless
they are all distinctly labelled ; but where this
is not considered necessary, a stout Oak peg
should be fixed in the centre of each group or
patch of bulbs or herbaceous plants of any kind
which disappears, and this peg should stand
some 4 in. or 5 in. above the surface of the soil,
and will serve to indicate the whereabouts of
the plants, and prevent them being injured
when the borders aro dug or pointed over early
in spring.

Hardy annuals in pots intended to be planted
out early, with the view of producing an early
display, should have, for the present, the pro¬
tection of a pit or frame, and are not unlikely
to be injured by slugs or snails, to prevent
which they should be frequently examined and
occasionally dusted with quick lime, if found to
be necessary. Protect also such winter flower¬
ing plants as the Chimonanthus fragrans, and
the Christmas Rose, which will now be in full
bloom if protected by a frame or hand-glass.

. Hardy Fruit.

This is a very good time for the planting of
all kinds of hardy fruits, and, if the weather
permits, the sooner it is done the better ; but
on no account attempt to plant when the ground
is in a soddened condition. Do not plant too
deeply ; as a rule, trees should never be planted
deeper than they originally were in the nursery.
After planting, mulch with cither rotten manure
or litter. This mulching is of the greatest im¬
portance, for, in the first place, it protects the
roots from drying winds and frosts; and,
secondly, it manures the ground.

The pruning of Apples, Pears, Plums, and
Cherries should be done as opportunity offers;
and, in case of strong growers, it may be neces
sary to root prune to get them into a fruitful
condition, which operation is beat performed
by entirely lifting and replanting trees of a
manageable size, and in the case of larger ones,
digging out a trench a reasonable distance
from their stems, and gradually working round
them, taking care to cut the tap roots especially.
Strawberry beds that were trimmed and dug
in the autumn ought now, if not previously
done, to be well manured, leaving the material
on the surface of the ground as a protection to
the plants. Draining, levelling, soil carting,
and otherwise preparing ground intended for
fruit trees, may be done when the ground is not
in a fit state for planting, and advantage
should thns be taken to forward all operations
of this nature in anticipation of the busy time
approaching.

Proceed with the pruning and nailing of
wall trees, Buch as Plums, Pears, Cherries, and
Apricots. Moss growing on the stems of old trees
should be scrubbed off, and afterwards the large
branches should be washed with a mixture of
lime-water, soot, and brine. Cut off shoots to
be used as scions in grafting, and insert their
ends in soil in some well-sheltered situation,
and head-back stocks on which they are to
grafted.

Trees and Shrubs.

Prepare stakes for steadying and supporting
any plants that have been recently transplanted,
or that may require such assistance. Trench
and prepare large holes, if the ground has not
become too frost-bound. Care should be taken
to clear off all snow from the surface before

opening the trench, for, if buried in the soil, it
is along time thawing, and considerably reduces
its temperature. In severe weather, in the
absence of snow as a protector, a load or two of
straw rubbish should be kept at hand to throw
over the surface of the ground to be trenched,
as it will prevent frost ponetrating, and the
work of trenchiug can then be carried on with¬
out interruption. At this late season it is better
to defer planting all kinds of evergreens till
April, unless the plants to be removed are of
small size, and are to be transferred to very
sheltered situations.

All recently transplanted trees Bhould receive
a heavy mulching, bo as to prevent the ground
about the roots from becoming frozen. In plant¬
ing very large deciduous trees, the stems and
main branches should be bound up, either with
bands of hay or Moss, but the latter is prefer¬
able, as it is neater and more retentive of mois¬
ture. If the trees are to be planted in exposod
situations, this protection will be found of the
greatest assistance in keeping the bark plump
till root action takes place.

Plants of questionable hardiness should at
once receive protection by shaking a quantity of
dry leaves round their baso. These should be
afterwards covered with Laurel branches or
Brakes, to prevent them being blown away.
Numbers of shrubs and plants, that would
otherwise he killed or greatly injured, will stand
severe winters if protected in this wav.

Take advantage of favourable weather to push
on the planting of all kinds of deciduous trees
and shrubs, for if frost again sets in it may
throw this work too far into the new year. If
any trees are received frQm the nurseries during
frosty weather, they should be placed in a close
damp shed till a thaw takes place. For orna¬
mental planting, few deciduous trees excel tho
Taxodium distichum, as it is always beautiful,
from the first opening of the bud to the fall of
the leaf. Its light, elegant, pale green foliage
equals in beauty many of the Fern fronds, and
might be used to great advantage in lieu of them
for dressing cut flowers. In the autumn nothing
can surpass the warmth of colour the foliage of
this tree assumes, and even at this late season
the trees are not yet bare. For rich autumnal
leaf colouring, the Liquidamber is one of the
most striking, and should have a place in the
shrubbery, where, associated with variegated
Hollies, &c., it will show off its lovely hues of
rich colouring most effectually.

The different varieties of Rhus are invaluable
for the foreground, especially the lovely R.
Cotinus, with its richly-coloured silky plumes,
and lacin&ta, which makes an effective plant for
the sub-tropical garden. The Japan Virginian
Creeper (Ampelopsis japonica) is another
desirable plant on account of its richly-coloured
leaves, and Veitch’s Virginian Creeper is
valuable for covering walls. If planted alter¬
nately with whito variegated Ivy, the effect is
most pleasing.

Vegetables.

In ordering seeds for the present year, reliance
should principally be placed upon old well-tried
varieties; at the same time, in order to keep
pace with the times, a few of the novelties in¬
troduced may be tried. Take advantage of the
present wintry weather to finish wheeling the
manure to uncropped land ; place it in large
heaps in the centre of the plots, to avoid loss
from the drying influence of the atmosphere,
and do not level it down till just before the land
is in a fit condition for digging. Where hotbeds
aro depended on for the first early Cucumbers,
a bed large enough for a one light frame should
be put up now for raising the young plants
should no other moans exist for bringing them
forward.

In cold situations, where it was not thought
desirable to sow Peas in autumn in the open air,
preparations should shortly be made for fetching
up lost time, by sowing some under glass for
planting out when the weather becomes more
favourable. They may either be sown in 4-inch
pots or in troughs, which any unskilled work¬
man who has a few rough boards can put
together, or they may be sown in squares of
fibry turf, hollowed out in the centre. It is not
advisablo to start them in too high a tempera¬
ture, as there is plenty of time without undue
forcing. A frame placed on a bed of leaves,
where they can be near the glass, will do well.
Lcosin the aoil Lrr.or.gat CiCbbagesj Colovrorts,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

534

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Due. 27, 1884.

Lettuce, Parsley, transplanted Onions, and
similar crops. Get August-sown Onion beds
thoroughly cleaned. When finished, slightly
dig or loosen the alleys, and transplant Lettuces
or Cabbages therein. Get all empty quarters
manured and trenched, throwing the soil into
ridges 2 feet apart. Vacant ground under fruit
trees manure and dig for Radishes, and be sure
to have the trees thinned or pruned before the
ground is interfered with. Radish beds sown
early in December should be uncovered every
morning, replacing the litter at night. Warm
borders which contained Tomatoes in summer
are best adapted for winter-sown Radishes.
Under fruit trees the beds receive a little shelter,
while the shade caused by the naked branches
does no harm.

Remove hand-lights and sashes from Cauli¬
flowers, Lettuces, and Onions during the day¬
time, but replace them at night. The smallest
amount of rain must be excluded from the Let¬
tuces, as they are so apt to damp off if they be¬
come wet; therefore rather tilt up the sashes
than altogether remove them. Thin and weed
the plants, and stir the soil a little amongst
them. Scatter some lime over all kinds of
crops, more especially over those transplanted
permanently, such as Cauliflowers transplanted
under hand-lights.

If ground be required lift the Jerusalem Arti¬
chokes and store them ; if land is not wanted,
merely cut over the stalks and spread a layer
of litter along the top of each drill. Dig the
ground between lines of Rhubarb, and place a
forkful of litter over each crown.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

SIMPLE METHOD OF TRANSPLANTING
LARGE TREES.

The transplanting of large trees is always
attended with more or less difficulty ; therefore
too many methods for the purpose cannot well
be made known. The more simple and inex¬
pensive a method is, the greater are its claims
to be generally adopted. A transplanting
machine of the most approved type is not
always at hand ; nor do I consider, if such were
the case, that the expense or success of the
operation would be much in favour of the
machine as opposed to the system I propose to
describe, and which has been successfully
adopted in transplanting trees 45 feet high,
with a spread of branches of 25 feet, ana a
stem diameter at 4 feet from the ground of
15 inches. The amount of earth attached to
the roots was about 3 tons, which, with the
tree, would make a total weight of about
5 tons. With powerful appliances very much
greater weights than these, however, could be
moved with facility.

Preparation. —The excavation is commenced
at about 6 feet from the trunk of the tree,
according to its size, a trench being opened
round the tree of sufficient width to allow of
the work being carried on with ease ; the depth
ahould be about 4 feet, all the large roots coming
within the trench being carefully cut. The
earth is then opened out in front and behind of
auffioie®t width to allow a strong timber car¬
riage to pass when the tree is ready for loading.
This is called the road, and the depth and
Qengtli of this cutting, as also its levels, will
•depend upon the shape of the ground. The
•earth is then excavated from underneath the
tree, in order to let it fall on its side, ropes
having previously been made fast for the pur¬
pose of pulling it over in the desired direction,
and others acting as guys, to prevent it swaying
to the right or left. Before letting the tree fall, a
pair of cross or shear legs, made of two strong
scaffold poles lashed together at about 3 feet
from their tops, should be placed in such a
position as to catch the stem at about two-
thirds of its height, for the purpose of holding
up the head about 8 feet from the ground.

Lifting. —When the tree is firmly settled on
the cross-legs, the next thing to do is to make a
strong support for the butt, which is managed
in the following manner Strong planks or
other pieces of timber are passed under the
•tern, as close to the roots as possible, the ends
resting on packings placed perfectly level, and
sufficiently wide apart to allow room for the
carriage to pass between them. Ejnlssujro is then
applied to the ondl ^pf rt gjb ig tudepl^ith screw-

jacks, thus making them tightly packed up, so
that the butt of the tree may rest firmly on
them. The excavation may now be proceeded
with under the ball, until it is perfectly free
from the ground. Pressure is again applied
with the jacks, and the ball raised, packing up
as the work proceeds, until it is about 2 feet
from the ground. The ball may then be reduced
with an ordinary garden fork to any desired
size, by removing any loose or unnecessary
soil. The ball should then be thoroughly
covered with mats tightly laced together,
having first pruned the roots. This is done
in order to protect the roots and prevent
the ball from falling to pieces, a neces¬
sary precaution in all cases. It is then raised
by aid of the jacks until it is about 5 feet from
the ground, according to the height of the back
pillar of the carriage which is intended to be
used for the removal of the tree. The tree will
then be in a horizontal position, or nearly so.
The carriage is then run back, so as to allow
the ball when lowered to rest directly over the
front pillar between the iron pins, strong planks
having previously been placed on the carriage
to make a platform. The ball is then lowered
on to the planks ; short pieces of plank are laid
across the back part of the carriage close to the
pillar, and the head of the tree is lowered on to
them. These should be of sufficient height to

!revent the branches dragging on the ground.

'he tree to be properly loaded should be exactly
along the centre of the carriage, and, having
taken its bearing, must be firmlv secured by
lashing with ropes to prevent its rolling or
slipping forward. This should be very carefully
done, as, in passing over rough or soft ground,
the load might possibly shift to an inconvenient
degree. The branches should also be tied in to
the main stem as closely as possible, in order to
prevent any liability to damage when passing
through gateways, narrow roads, or under over¬
hanging trees.

Unloading. —The site for the tree having
boen selected, it is drawn as near as may be
necessary, so that when it is raised it may be
in its right position. The unloading is per¬
formed in the same manner as described above
for loading ; that is ; the head is propped up by
the shear Tegs ; having been raised by the aid
of a screw-jack sufficiently high to allow of the
removal of the packings, the butt is lifted, and
the carriage taken away. Assisted by the
jacks, the butt is lowered by taking the
packings out one by one until it is firmly settled
on the ground. Nothing now remains to be
done, except to rear the tree into an upright
position, which is performed as follows : An
ordinary timber jack, with a clawed foot, is
placed on a packing for a foundation under the
tree ; at about half its height, a plank of con¬
venient length is then placed, so as to rest one
end on the claw of the jack, the other butted up
to a suitable place on the under side of the
trunk. Force is then applied to the jack, which
will lift the plank and carry the tree with it to
a height corresponding with the lift of the
jack. Shear legs are then pressed tightly up
against the trunk, in order to retain it at its
height. The jack is let down, and the operation
repeated by using planks of various lengths, or
packing up under the jack, as may be most
convenient. When the tree has been lifted by
these means to an angle of from 65 degs. to 70
degs. it may in all probability be reared into an
upright positon by the aid of ropes previously
made fast in the head of the tree. During the
operation of lifting, guys should be used to pre¬
vent the tree swaying either to the right or to
the left, in order that the jack may perform its
work in a position perfectly vertical to the trunk.
In the whole work connected with the trans¬
planting, particular care should be taken that
in every case where pressure is applied, or
where ropes are made fast, a quantity of sack¬
ing or other similar material be wrapped round
the tree, and tied in order that no injury may
arise.

Materials necessary for the work are a strong
timber carriage, a quantity of planks and pack¬
ings, two screw-jacks, one timber jack with
clawed foot, a few strong scaffold poles, some
old sacking, and some ropes. Care should be
taken in loading that the best side, if any,
should be placed uppermost, and that the
carriage is drawn to the side in such a position
that that side is in the desired direction when
the tree is in an upright position. The advan¬

tages claimed for this system are, that it is
simple, inexpensive, and effectual, two labourers
being able to do the whole of the work, with
the exception of rearing the tree into an up¬
right position, when it may be necessary to
employ eight men for a few hours to attend to
the jack, the shear legs, and guys ; that the
tree, being loaded nearly horizontally, is
capable of passing in the least possible space
with a minimum liability as to injury; that a
large ball of earth may be removed unbroken
with the roots, thus ensuring maximum of
success ; that the whole of the materials neces¬
sary for carrying out the work may generally
be found in most country villages ; and that
skilled labour is not a necessity. C. D.

12349.— Aralia SieboldL— " P. L.” asks as
to the correct treatment of this most useful
decorative plant. Well, I find it hardy in this
locality, but it is most decidedly ornamental
when it is used as a summer flower garden orna¬
ment, and removed to the conservatory or green¬
house for the winter months, as, when opposed
to the sudden alternations of frost and thawing,
the fresh verdant look of the leaves gets
blemished ; therefore, although it may really be
called hardy, it is grateful for a little protection.
“ P. L.” says his plant has not flowered yet, but
he will find that as his plant gets older it w ill
flower freely every year, but as its period of
flowering is during the winter, the seed out-of-
doors rarely come to maturity, but under the
shelter of glass it seeds freely, the berries being
borne on heads very like the common Ivy.—
J. G. H., Gosport,

12343 — Magrnolias not blooming.— The
Magnolia mentioned by “ R. B. C.” is probably
of a kind that rarely flowers, and I would advise
him to get a young plant of the variety called
the Exmouth ; this may be known by its having
the leaves brown on the under side of their
surface, and it usually flowers even in a small
state. The brick wall and south aspect ought
to induce free flowering, as the young growth
will get well ripened. I find that if the soil is
made hard about the roots to check luxuriant
growth the flowering will be accelerated. Do
not prune, but fasten the young growth rather
loosely to the wall, as the Magnolia flowers from
the terminal bud of the wood of the preceding
year, the young side shoots being the ones that
roduce the flowers. When the Magnolia
owers freely it has the valuable habit of pro¬
ducing its magnificent blossoms in succession
for a long time. They are much prized for
placing in large vases, and one flower will scent
the whole house.—J. G., Hants.

Aralia Sieboldi. —This Aralia has been
most approvingly spoken of in Gardening, and
no better fine foliaged plant exists for the
embellishment of dwelling rooms, and none with
which I am acquainted will bear more rough
treatment. A stock of plants can readily be
raised from seed sown in spring as soon as it
can be obtained, and by the end of the season
capital little plants will be produced. Propaga¬
tion by means of cuttings is also readily effected,
but the plants produced by both of these means
have a number of small leaves at the base,
which detract much from their beauty when
placed in vases as single specimens. If the top
is taken off with its fine bold foliage and rooted,
small leaves become conspicuous on the stump
until it is again in active growth. Only a short
time ago I saw this difficulty overcome
admirably in one of the Chester nurseries.
When the plants become leggy and lose their
lower foliage, the top is taken off and grafted
on its own stem again close to the soil in which
the plants are growing. Saddle grafting is that
adopted, and the scion and stock, if kept for a
short time in a close frame, soon become united.
I was informed that the result of this practice
was the production of no small leaves at the top,
a statement evidently correct, judging by the
appearance of a number of plants worked in this
manner.—W. B. N.

Daphne Mezereum.— Flowering with the
winter Jasmine, with Clematis cirrhosa, with
seedling Primroses, and with the earliest Snow¬
drops, the old Mezereon, as it is generally called,
is most welcome ; its leafless shoots are of a soft
ash colour, and they are now closely studded
with buds which will ere long open into purple
blosaoma. If the flowering twiga are cut and
placed in fresh water indoors, their fragrance is

Dec. 27, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

535

delicious. A good bed of this Daphne deserves
a plaoe in all good gardens; it is always inte¬
resting alike in flower, in leafage, and when
covered with its coral-red fruits. There is a
white-dowered variety which is even prettier
than the purple-blossomed type, and its berries
are of a soft yellow or amber colour. A very
pretty group might be made of these two shrubs,
and for company add Rhododendron pra?cox—
also now beautifully in flower—and a few plants
of J&sminum nudiflorum trained bush fashion.
These, in a bed of peat and loam, with an edging
of fresh green Ivy, or with a belt of Mr. Davis’s
hybrid Pemefctyaa, would form an agreeable
feature in any good garden.

FRUIT.

GOOD APPLES.

Useful advice has lately been given to intend¬
ing planters of Apples for profit, which I am
desirons of supplementing with a few facts that
have come under my notice, as to the best sorts
to plant for certainty of cropping, and for com¬
manding a ready sale in the market. Exagge¬
rated statements, such os that of Blenheim
Oranges realising £1 per bushel, are only calcu¬
lated to mislead. If people only gave a second
thonght as to the price at which really good
Apples were selling during last winter, they
would be convinced that such prices were un¬
attainable. The wholesale price of English-
grown Apples was from 4i. to 5s. per sieve, and
only good samples realised these prices. This
statement need not, however, damp the ardour
of intending planters, for that Apple culture is
a profitable industry at these figures I am tho¬
roughly convinced. I have seut many hundreds
of sieves of Apples to London markets iu
seasons of scarcity, and also iu seasons of
plenty, and by reference to my salesman’s
returns I find that 5s. per sieve is a fair
average price for good Apples ; indeed, by far
the largest portion of our home-grown crop
is Bold for less than that. Out of the
hundreds of sorts of Apples in cultivation
the only ones that are known to purchasers
may be counted on the fingers. Ribstons,
Blenheims, and Golden Pippins, with Codlins
or Wellingtons for cooking, exhaust the list of
Eaglish sorts that are inquired after, and any
sorts that bear the slightest resemblance to one or
other of these well-known kinds are passed off as
Buch. This is done, too, in some instances with¬
out detriment to the purchaser, for that varieties
but seldom heard of by name are more than
equal to those so eagerly sought after for every
purpose for which Apples are grown must be
patent to all who take the trouble to enquire.
It will be found that some kinds very largely
grown and highly esteemed in one part of the
kingdom are not known even by name in
another, and during the last few years many
kinds that were qnite in the background have
worked their way to the front by reason of their
certainty of cropping and general excellence,
while those termed first-class are only grown in
limited quantities. The reason is not far to
seek. Not many years ago, anyone who intended
to plant an orchard either took the names of
the sorts to be planted from fruits shown at ex¬
hibitions, or consulted some work on fruit where
Apples are classified mostly as regards flavour.
Thus, Ribston Pippin, Margil, or the Cornish
Gilliflower, Ashmead’s Kernel, Golden Pippin,
and other first-rate sorts were planted in posi¬
tions both suitable and unsuitable. Iu sheltered
walled gardens, if they produced a light crop
for the use of a private family all well and
good; but for the rough-and-ready system
of growing fruit in quantity for market,
where varieties are valued according to what
they produce, a very different standard of
excellence has to be set up. Instead of
wasting efforts upon sorts that one w ould
like to grow, cultivators go in for planting what
they can grow. A good crop at a price which
the general public can afford to pay is of more
importance than fancy prices obtained for
special kinds that require the shelter of glass to
bring them to perfection. Although the Rib-
ston Pippin still commands the top price in the
market, I should not advise it to be planted
largely in orchards, except in very favourable
positions, for, taking the average of several
years, I find that varieties far down in the list
are mnch more remunerative.. An i ^njajc s,the
Various systems OFVoElbwiln; AsriJik- for

market, there can be no question that tali stan¬
dards on Grass at good wide distances apart are
well adapted for farmers who can utilise the
Grass for stock feeding, and thereby keep their
trees manured and fruitful for many years.
Probably this system would rapidly spread
if farmers cultivated their own land, or were
recompensed for improvements made on the
land which they rent. It is a landlord’s
question more than a tenant’s, and must be
taken up by landlords if wo are to supply our
markets with home-grown fruit. Then there
is the mixed system of planting with tall
standards at wide intervals apart and rows of
dwarf bush trees between them. In Kent, where
this system is largely practised, I have seen
enormous crops of Codlins that, even at from
2s. to 33. per sieve, realised a large sum per
acre. In this locality I have seen very fane
crops on trees planted at wide intervals, and
cropped between with vegetables, and now that
bush trees grafted on dwarfing stocks are be¬
coming so popular, we shall probably find this
system very largely practised, as the demand
for fresh vegetables grows as fast as that for
home-grown fruit. In close proximity to large
towns, where a ready sale can be obtained for
all kinds of market-garden crops, I feel certain
that Apples grown in quantity will prove to be
one of the safest investments for cither the
farmer or market gardener. Dwarf bush trees
graffed on dwarfing stocks planted in lines wide
enough apart to allow of intermediate cropping
is the system which I should adopt, as they
need but very little pruning and no training,
and, being surface rooter3, they continue healthy
in shallow soils not suited for the deeper-
rooting crab stocks. If the soil is cultivated
and manured annually for intermediate crops,
the Apples will continue fruitful for many
years. There is no need for waiting weary years
looking for fruit if good trees are planted. Out
of several dozens that I planted twelve months
ago not one has failed to carry some fine fruits,
and many of them have had qnite a full crop.
The reason is obvious—these dwarfing stocks
throw out a mass of fibrous roots, therefore the
trees stand removal without feeling the check,
and in planting a quantity during the past week
that had been temporarily laid in by the heels
I was surprised to find new roots not only push¬
ing freely from all the older ones, but pushing
out iu all directions from the stems as far up
as the soil bad covered them. Early planting
should therefore be the rule, as, although no
outward growth is visible, the roots are at work,
aud the trees will give ample proof the following
season of the wisdom of getting these moved
directly the leaf drops.

Intercropping. —As regards the best inter¬
mediate crops to grow, there can be no question
that bush fruits—Gooseberries, Currants, and
Raspberries—are not only certain croppers,
but always command a ready sale. No matter
how heavy the crops may be, they are all
cleared off by the jam manufacturers. Then
there is Asparagus, which makes a capital inter¬
mediate crop, and if hundreds of acres of it
were planted it would prove a remunerative
crop to the cultivator and a boon to the public.
In the light, warm soil of the southern coun¬
ties it could be grown as a field crop and sold
at a profit at a price within the reach of all.
This is one of the crops that need shelter from
wind, and cross rows of Apple bushes acting
like hedges would do this. Many other crops
are equally benefited by shelter, or if bush
trees were planted thick enough to occupy all
the ground, or, say, from 10 feet to 12 feet
apart, they would not only do this bat also
shelter one another, and the crops that an acre
of such bushes would produce when in full
hearing is surprising.

Of varieties I should recommend the follow¬
ing as sure to give satisfaction, viz:—

Kitchen Apples.
Keswick Codlin
Manks Codlin
Lord Snffleld
Cox’s Pomona
Loddinprton Seedling
Echlinville
Stirling Castle
N>-w Ii iwthornden
Wellington
Warner’s King
Winter Queening
Dutch Mignonne
Northern Greening

Dessert Apples.
Mr Gladstone
Red J uneating
Irish Peach
Red Quarrenden
Worcester Pear main
Ktng of Pinpins
Cox’s Orangtf Pippin
Wjken Pippin
Roincite de Canada
Redlt-af Russet
Summer Golden Pippin
Golden Knob
Stunner Pippin

A good number of bushes of each kind should

be planted, for in planting for market one
hundred trees of one or two kinds will in nearly
every case be found more remunerative than if
one hundred trees of fifty kinds were planted.

G.

FRUITS OF THE SEASON.

At this season the most prominent features of
the fruiterer’s Btore are Apples, Pears, and
Pineapples. Writers may say what they like
about the comparative excellence of English
Apples and Pears, but so long as Newtown
Pippins are in the market, and French Pears,
both seem to be preferred. Taking it alto¬
gether, there are few or no Apples which sur¬
pass the Newtown Pippin. It is an excellent
keeper in the barrel, turning out in tho
soundest condition months after it has been
stored. We have frequently unpacked in
January barrels that were filled when the
fruit was gathered, in which there was hardly
one decayed fruit and very few bruised ones.

The reason why fruit does not rot in the
barrel when bruised is no doubt because of the
air being excluded, as the Apples, being firmly
packed together, do not shift; and where they
squeeze each other so closely the air cannot
reach them. The wonder is, however, that
there are so few damaged fruits in barrels the
quantity not being worth mentioning. No doubt
the excellence of these Apples hinders home
cnltnre very muoh, for numbers, knowing they
can supply their wants at this season at little
cost and trouble, do not think of growing their
own fruit—the market is their orchard. When
a large quantity is wanted the best way is to
buy in the barrel at the seaport, and keep them
in the barrel. The best brand Bhould also be
secured. Other varieties of American Apples
are also sold very extensively, and at a cheaper
rate than the Newtowns.

In selecting good sorts for general cultiva¬
tion the Americans have entirely beaten English
growers, and this, more than anything else, has
tended to promote the American Apple trade.
It is now beginning to he realised where our
mistake has been, and there is an earnest desire
exhibited to imitate American cultivators in the
matter of selection ; but, while the latter have
long since settled the main problem for them¬
selves, we are still only groping in the dark, so
to speak, as regards the best sorts to grow.
The American horticultural societies have no
doubt greatly promoted the Apple trade, for
they have been far more practical and useful
than similar societies in this country. Their
objects have been of greater national importance,
and they have done much to foster the cultiva¬
tion of the most useful fruits and vegetables.
In presence of the American societies for the
promotion of horticulture, British enterprise
in the same direction dwindles into the most
insignificant proportions ; for, although the
Royal Horticultural Society is one of the oldest
in existence, and has had great opportunities, it
has but a poor reoord to show.

If, when it had the chance, it had set to
work to find out what sorts of fruit were best
for English gardens, and what kinds of hardy
fruits succeeded best in different parts of the
country, or attempted some useful task of that
description among the many open to it, what
might not have been accomplished by this time ?

One of the most notable fruits of the shops
is the St. Michael's Pineapple. No special
foreign importation has affected home culture
so much as this has done in the case of the
Pine. Both in market and private gardens Pine
culture has virtually ceased. It has been
said and repeated that the St. Michael's fruits
are not equal to home-grown ones, which
may be the case in a few instances, where home
grown PiDes are grown well and perfectly ripened
before sending to the table ; but it is not true
if we compare the home and foreign supply
generally. The St. Michael’s Pijies are all of
nniform size and excellence, whereas a really
good English Pine is the exception, and has
always been so. A dealer would find it impos¬
sible to collect together any quantity of English
Pines at one time to equal a batch of St.
Michael’s, which differ from English-grown
Smooth Cayennes only in not being so perfectly
ripe, although they are improving in that re¬
spect. On the average, Pineapples cannot now
be grown to pay at home, and, as they are re¬
garded in many places more im an ornament to
the dessert, than anything else, the discontinu-

53G

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 27, 1884.

ance of their home culture cannot be a source of
regret, if their place is occupied by something
better, as it will likely be.

Grapes are plentiful in the shops now, and
they are muoh cheaper than formerly. Still,
shop Grapes are, as a rule, inferior, and by far
the best are those supplied in private gardens.
Grapes can be grown Both of better quality and
cheaper than they can be had from the market.
Shop Grapes are only used by people who have
no gardens or no vineries of their own. The
great fault of shop Grapes is their unripe con¬
dition. White Muscats one seldom sees, and
seldomer in a ripe and good state ; while in the
case of black Grapes, and especially in early
ones, the rule seems to be to cut them as soon
as they are coloured to some extent, and
while they are yet quite unfit to eat.
These are the complaints of all who
have to buy their supplies from the shop;
and now the very worst eating Grape in
existence—viz., Gros Colmar—threatens to
supersede all other black sorts, on account of
its large berries. It is a Grape that is just
tolerable to eat after it is quite ripe and has
been allowed to hang a while ; but earlier it is
simply execrable. Even the common Almerian
Grape, sold so cheaply by both grocers and
fruiterers, is of better quality than a few of the
English-grown sorts in the market, and, for our
part, we should prefer it and would recommend
it. The berries are sound and plump, sweet
and refreshing, and altogether superior to a
partially shrivelled Alicante or Lady Downes at
this season, or any other late Grape except
Muscats ; and when the bunches are cleaned
and dished up nicely, a dish of Grapes can be
produced far surpassing many a one made up of
English fruit. All things considered, those
who want the finest Grapes do best to grow them
themselves.

What applies to Grapes applies also to
Peaches. Our market supply of these is miser¬
able, except it be in the case of a few shops in
London at a certain season. The best Peaches
are found in private gardens, from which some¬
times the worst portion of the crop finds its way
to the market, as almost the only course of
supply.

Strawberries are, of course, one of our main
market orops, notwithstanding the extent to
which they are cultivated in all gardens, and
probably few fruit crops pay as well. Dessert
Strawberries are, however, no better from the
market than the Grapes and Peaches, the same
considerations affecting their culture, quality
being sacrificed to appearance, and the samples
seldom being ripe. After all is said, however,
the market still provides for the largest portion
of the community, and caters for them well too.
The list of shop fruits is now a long one—
Grapes, Pines, Peaches, Apples, Pears, Straw¬
berries, and small fruits, Oranges, Pome¬
granates, Bananas, Nuts of sorts, and various
other occasional odds and ends and varieties.
While the province of the private grower is
being encroached on more and more by the
market, nothing new is added to the garden ;
but the gardener has every inducement to im¬
prove in his culture of what he has left. The
market will never supersede the good private
garden. There is no fear of the market ever
supplanting the home garden; but the home
gardener may take a lesson from the market,
and learn from it where he can best direct his
energies. S. W.

Outdoor vin©3.—Although Grape culture
on walls is by no means a new idea, I question
if it is so well carried out now as it was in by¬
gone days before glasshouses had multiplied so
exceedingly, for the simple reason that the glass
structures monopolise so much of the gardener’s
time and attention, yet, when a sunny aspect
can be given them, they are a very reliable and
profitable crop to grow, for they never fail to
carry a good crop, being not so precocious in
flowering as many of our tender wall fruits that
expand their gay petals before the treacherous
spring frosts have left us ; and for covering walls,
whether they be high or low, I do not think
there is a safer investment than the hardy kinds
of vines, such as the Sweetwater, Black
Cluster, or Muscadine. If good strong plants
are put in they will make growth sufficient to
cover the wall the first season, and the second
year a full crop mly bej f^htrfci I |Plike the

single rod system of training, as by that means
a wall is quickly covered. I would advise that
on walls not very lofty young canes be trained
up every year, and the old bearing ones removed
at the winter pruning ; but for lofty walls the
spur system may be safely followed, keep the
main shoots a good distance apart, and as young
wood produces the finest bunches, a regular
succession of young rods should be trained in,
taking out an equal number of old decrepit ones.
The main points of good culture may be briefly
stated as including early attention to disbudding
all extra shoots, stopping the fruiting branches
at one joint beyond the bunch and keeping the
growth thin, and all useless laterals removed in
time. Do not over-crop—one shoot to a spur,
and one bunch to a shoot, is better than leaving
more than can possibly be finished off satisfac¬
torily.— J. G. H.

12334.—Pear tree unfruitful.— “Stans ”
asks a very oft-repeated question as to what he
can do to make his Pear tree fruitful. It has
been planted ten years, and blooms well, but
when the fruit is apparently set it falls off, and
all the hopes of a crop vanish. I should advise
that the tree be carefully lifted with all the
roots as entire as possible, then thoroughly
break up the soil and replant, spreading out
the roots nearer the surface than they were
before, and cover with some fresh soil from
another part of the garden ; tread the soil very
firmly, stake the tree securely to prevent wind
waving, and finish off by covering the roots
with a barrowful of partly decayed manure that
will promote root action and gradually enrich
the Boil. Do not over-prune; merely shorten
back extra strong shoots, or cut out any that
are crowding each other, and if this does not
restore the fruitfulness of the tree it must be a
worthless one that is not worth keeping.—
J. G., Hants .

12454.—Protection for fruit trees.—I
do not think the planting of a hedge on the
south-west side of the garden would prove of
much use in preventing the effects of frost, and
on the other hand the hedge would tend to cut
off sun and air. Gardens in low situations near
rivers often suffer much from late spring frosts,
and in this case the best remedy would be careful
protection in spring with scrim, Ac., for the wall
trees ; but large standards must, of course, take
their chance.—K., Southend.

Golden Reinette Apple.— For dessert
purposes during February, March, and April I
know of no Apple to equal the Golden Reinette.
It is rather small, but in point of colour and
rich, juicy, and sweet flesh, it leaves nothing to
be desired. It succeeds admirably as an orchard
tree, and nowhere better than in the neighbour¬
hood of Wincanton, Somersetshire. Golden
Reinette is a very old sort, but is still one of
the most profitable in cultivation.—W. I.

Lichens on Pear trees.— I think that
freshly-slaked lime in the proportion of one
of lime to five of water, and applied with
the garden engine or syringe, would be as
effectual a way of destroying Lichens as any
that could be adopted. In an orchard here
about 2 acres in extent, situated in a damp,
low-lying part of the park, the trees, though
young and apparently healthy, had become so
covered with Lichen that when the branches
were thick one could scarcely see between
them, and could not discern the shoots at all,
except the small portion of young growth at
their points. Twelve months ago last October
we determined to give the plan just recom¬
mended a trial. We got a large tub into which
the lime was placed ; then the water was added
and stirred, and as much of the lime was dis¬
charged upon the trees as could be kept up in
the water—sufficient to cause the trees to
become white when the lime was dried on them.
The result was all that could be desired ; the
bark of the trees which could not be seen then,
was last summer, and still continues to be, as
bright and clean as one could wish to see it;
and, further, last summer the trees made a much
more satisfactory growth than when infested
with the Lichens. Brine, I believe, would have
a similar effect, although I have not tried it,
and of copperas I have had no experience at all.
-C. W.

Canker on fruit trees.— In a contem¬
porary, a well-known amateur gardener most
positively asserts his belief that canker is

caused by insects, but I think it will turn out
that he has been too precipitate in his conclu¬
sions ; at any rate, I, like scores of others, have
never found any difficulty about curing canker
by lifting and replanting in better soil, a process
which could hardly stop the depredations of
insects were the affection due to their agency,
which it is not, but is solely caused by the roots
descending into an unsuitable, badly drained,
soured, or stagnant soil.—W. H.

Unseasonable flowering of fruit
trees. —During the past autumn we have
had numerous instances of fruit trees flowering
out of their season, more especially Pear trees ;
and I find in our local papers thiB is set down
as owing to the mild weather. Allow me to
state that mild autumns have little effect in
causing such unseasonable displays. The facts
are briefly these. During summer we had an
intense drought, and fruit trees lost their leaves
before the ordinary date. In September heavy
rains fell, and mild, growing weather foilowing,
the trees started into a spring-like growth, the
blossoms coming out with a fresh crop of leaves.
There can be no question that it is owing to a
check to growth, as trees that retained their
foliage have not started a single bud, but have
gone to rest as usual.—J. Groom, Hants.

Two good kitchen Apples.— We are
now using the Tower of Glamis, and it is much
liked in the kitchen. The tree is a vigorous
grower, good bearer, and well adapted for the
orchard. To follow this we have the Lemon
Pippin, and that is also a good culinary sort.
It is, however, scarcely vigorous enough for an
orchard tree ; our fruit is obtained from pruned,
bu»h-shaped trees. They rarely fail to bear
well, and for tarts are unsurpassed by any other
sort at present in use.—I.

12353.— Gooseberry trees —Some varieties grow
long and others short-jointed wood, but any variety will
produce long and weak growths If they are too much
crowded or the bushes are grown under trees. A Gooseberry
bush ought to be grown to a single stem, and when it is
being pruned thin out the centre wood well. Usually
about three fourths of the young wood must be thinned out
at pruning time.—J. D. E.

- No particulars are given as to the situation of the

trees, but in my "opinion an over-manure! and wet soil
might cause the long-jointed growth complained of, also
a close and confined position.—K.

12354.—Fruit trees.—The inference to be drawn from
the state of the trees described in this question is that the
ground is not drained. Fruit trees grown in undrained
soil have a tendency to become grown over with Moss on
the branches, and the blossoms are also much more liable
to be cut off by frosts in such soil. A hedge of Yew or
Holly would shelter the fruit trees from winds when it had
grown 6 feet or 6 feet high and if the trees were dwarf.—
J. D. E.

Natural stone edgings.— In the inte¬
resting article “ Hints for Beginners ” in Gar¬
dening of 13th inst., the writer says “ If a
broad band of stones be stink in the bed and
covered with rock plants bo much the better. ”
Can you inform me what is the usual way to
manage an edging as above described ; how the
stones should be arranged, what are the best
plants to employ; also if the stones should be
at all covered with soil?—G. W.—[A stone
edging is the simplest thing in the world to
make. You simply have to put the stones about
half their depth in the ground, putting down
the biggest and broadest side. We are now
speaking of rough, natural stones. They simply
want to be put prettj straight, and made firm
at each side, and, being irregular in shape
themselves, any slight deviation is not noticed,
and is no harm. It is quite the reverse with
any formal or cast tile or stone. Flints also do
this way. The plants suited are any of the
Stonecrops or London Prides, or any hardy
Houseleeks, or, in fact, any dwarf hardy and
rocky plant. Hundreds will do beside stone
edgings, and make them look pretty, and do no
harm.]

Birds and berries.— It is very certain
that birds do not always choose severe weather
for their attacks on berries, for in a few days
they completely cleared our trees of an abundant
crop. This was especially so in the case of hips
on the Sweet Brier and berries on the Coto-
neaster microphylla and on C. Simonsi. Even
sparrows and chaffinches attacked these with
vigour, leaving the refuse on the ground for us
to clear up, and the clearing was done so quickly
that I was hardly prepared to see the trees bare
R been

durtarbea.—J. C.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Dec. 27, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

£37

INDOOR PLANTS

GREENHOUSE RHODODENDRONS.

0 reenhopse R.HODODKNDRONfl seem likely to
become even more popular than they have been,
judging by the increased interest taken in them
and by the many new kinds that have been sent
out duriogthese last few years. Several handsome
hybrids, all with white or nearly white flowers,
have been obtained by intercrossing R. cilixtum,
Edgeworthi, Dalhouske, formosutn, and Veitchia-
cum, these hybrids being extremely free bloomers
and their flowers for th<» most part agreeably
scented. The dwarf R. c datum has been largely
employed os a seed-bearer, many hybrids
having been raised from it. One of the first

faintly tinged with rose. They are very sweet-
scented and average a little over 3 inches in
diameter. The profuse way in which it flowers |
is well shown, and also its dense bushy style of
growth. This Rhododendron has already had
its merits duly recognised, for both the Royal
Horticultural and Botanic Societies have
awarded it certificates. Mr. Robert Veitch, of
Exeter, the raieer of it, says : 11 We treat our
plants in exactly the same manner as we do our
Azaleas, ».*»., keep them close after flowering
and syringe them well. Their wood, when
made, is ripened in the same house in which they
remain, with fnli air on during the winter.
Thus managed they flower about April. We
have had them in bloom during all the spring
months from January by putting them in heat,

habit is altogether taller than that of R.
exoniense, which partakes of the dwarfed
character of R. ciliatum. R. Forsteri&num was
raised by Mr. Otto Forster in Austria, and
bears, perhaps, the largest blooms of any of this
class of Rhododendrons. The flower is white,
tinged in the centre with lemon and the edges
of the petals prettily crisped. Another grand
variety is R. Sestcrianum, a variety raised
between Gibsoni or formosum and Edgeworthi.
In general characters it is a good deal like
Forsterianum. R. Duchess of Buocleuch is also
much in the same way. These different hybrids
of Edgeworthi seed very readily ; therefore, as
a rule, any number of plants can be raised from
them, and as many of them vary to a certain
extent, different forms may occasionally be met

was R. Pi incers Alice, a hybrid raised ketween
cilixtum and Edgeworthi. This has large sweet-
s rented flowers, but, like all the descendants of
R. Edgeworthi, if dwarf bushes are desired it
must be pinched back freely when young, as it
show's a tendency to run up thin unless such
means arc resorted to in order to check its
[growth. R. exoniense, the suhject of our
illustration, is a hybrid between R. Veitchianum
knd ciliatum ; its flowers strikingly remind one
pf those of the former, while in habit and
hardiness it resembles the latter. From an
nraament&l point of view, however, it is
[decidedly superior to both, as R. Veitchianum
is by no means good in habit, especially when
young, while this is as dwarf and co
in Azalea. The flowers ar^ - wTlitewith
•tain in th^ - centre, and |jatJ| Qthe

treatment which they seem to bear very well.
We have had a plant of it out-of doors for two
winters (certainly mild ones), and in the open
ground it forms a dense growing low shrub.
We use the flowers for bouquets, wreaths,
Ac. They associate well with white Azaleas,
relieving their glaring whiteness, if 1 may use
the expression, by their ivory-white tints.”
Although it may grow out-of-doors at Exeter,
the greenhouse is doubtless its proper place, for
it is by no means likely to prove hardy. Edge¬
worthi, one of its parents, requires protection,
except in very sheltered spots, and the Moul-
mcin R. Veitchianum is still more tender.

Another variety of Continental origin claims
to be a descendant from R. Veitchianum, viz., R
Forsterianum; but, as it is the result of a
cross between that kind and R. Edgeworthi, its >

with bearing the same name. A very dis¬
tinct and handsome h>b.id is Countess of
Iladdirgton, the result of a cross between
K Dalhou&irc (itself a primrose - flow ered
kind, but veiy straggling in growth) and R.
ciliatum. The large bell-shaped blossoms of
this variety are when first expanded pinknh,
but afterwards they become almost white. As
a proof of the variations to be fouud among
seedlings, we may mention that out of a dozen
plants obtained from reed there was a per¬
ceptible difference amongst all of them, espe¬
cially as regards the colour of the flowers.
Thus extra good types must be increased by
cuttings or grafts. CounteiM of Haddington
forms a large, handsome bush, but flowers freely

Another r-

{SHIRK MB obtained

Jreana-champaign

538

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 27, 1884.

by Mr. Davies, of Ormskirk, by intercrossing
Edgeworthi with the dwarf free-blooming R.
multiflorum. Those are distinguished by dwarf
twiggy growth and great profusion of bloom—
properties which emineutly fit them for
flowering in small pots. This class of Rhododen¬
drons is more popular in the north than in the
Bouth, where they seem at present to be but
little known. They are named Countess of
Derby, Lady iSkelmeradale, Mrs. James Shawe,
Countess of Sefton, and Duchess of Sutherland,
all of which possess a strong family likeness.
The blooms, which are white, are in one or two
cases slightly tinged with pink, and are
deliciously fragrant. The advantage possessed
by all the above hybrids over most of the
recognised species is the freedom with which
they flower when in a small state, though in
this respect some of their parents nearly
approach them, especially if propagated by
cuttings. In this way doubtless some of the
larger Himalayan kinds could be induced to
bloom in less time than when raised from seed,
but as a rule a good deal of space is required to
grow them to perfection. Greenhouse Rhodo¬
dendrons are, however, so effective when in
bloom as to be well worth devoting a house to
them ; during the flowering season the display
made by them would be most interesting, and
they need only sufficient heat to keep out frost.

There is yet another class of greenhouse
hybrids that need rather more heat during the
winter than the preceding ; indeed, they do best
when kept during cold weather in the tempera¬
ture of an intermediate house. To this section
belong R. jasminiflorum, javanicum, Lobbi,
and the various hybrids raised therefrom. Of
the latter, the oldest and best known is pink-
flowered Princess Royal, but there are many
others, such as Duchess of Teck (buff), Duchess
of Edinburgh (rich glowing crimson), Taylori
(pink with a white tube), Princess Alexandra
(white), Maiden’s Blush (pale rose), and Dachess
of Connaught (bright red). These kinds bloom
at almost any season of tho year ; indeed, under
lil>eral treatment they are rarely ever out of
flower. In a cool position in tho stove or in an
intermediate temperature they may be had in
fljwer throughout the winter. T.

Culture of Bpiphyllums. — I have
noticed in your paper queries “ How to grow
and bloom Epiphyllums.” I find them most
easy to manage. Some four years since I bought
a small own-root plant with sir or eight blooms
on it in Covent Garden flower market. The
next season I got two Pereskia stocks from
a nurseryman, and grafted both (a very easy
matter), and now they are good-sized plants,
bearing thirty or forty blooms each ; the original
plant, on own roots, is also covered in bloom
buds, which I hope and think may be out by
Christmas. I have struck and given away
plants to my friends, one of whom has bloomed
two plants in a dwelling-house window. I have
also half-a-dozen plants, struck last year,
with from six to eight bloom buds on each. Any
little piece of Pereskia strikes just as readily,
so I can have as many stocks as I want. The
secret, as it seems to me, is to grow them on to
the size wanted, and then to check them by
withholding water. I put them out from June
to September, out-of-doors in the full sun, and
do not water them at all; if they shrivel I
occasionally sprinkle them, but none at the
roots. I then bring them in before frost
threatens, and begin to water them a little.
When plump again the bloom buds will soon
show, and then they get fed with tepid manure
water, a little weak guano, or sulphate of
ammonia. I may mention that mine is an
ordinary greenhouse, heated by a flue, and
little more than frost kept out, never much
above 50 degs. by fire heat, so almost anyone
may do as I have done.— Amateur.

Chrysanthemums for small green¬
houses. — l trust that small amateurs will not
be deterred from growing the large-flowered
Chrysanthemums by your correspondent’s re¬
marks in your last issue, but will immediately
start cultivating them. A cold frame is the best
to strike cuttings in, and growers cannot do
better than choose those named by Mr. Rain-
ford, the list being a very carefully-prepared
one. It is not neefesfeary to have! a greenhouse
k» bloom these(jcraj^j*ututoll J powers, as a

magnificent show can be obtained if, about the
first week in October, the plants are so placed
under a wooden framework that a canvas or
other covering can be pulled over them in the
event of bad weather and frosty nights. The
Pompones are useful for placing in front of the
large-flowering kinds, thus hiding the pots and
bare stems. Of course, should there be a very
severe autumn, a good many of the fine show in¬
curved varieties may come reflexed, but still the
probabilities are in favour of a show quite and
more than sufficient to thoroughly repay you ;
perhaps, for a temporary structure, rather more
Japanese and reflexed than incurved had better
be chosen. I would add that a very short ex¬
perience will suffice to find out the earlier bloom¬
ing sorts, and where there is no heat special
attention should be paid to this. If the amateur
does not go to the different Chrysanthemum
shows, and note the special blooms that he likes,
he will never get together a good collection ;
but I would advise him not to throw away at
once any plant of which he has seen a good
bloom because he may not have bloomed it
equally woll. Different seasons materially affect
different kinds, and a sort that has once bloomed
well will, if patience is bestowed upon it, come
good again. The one thing that is absolutely
necessary is plenty of air (fortunately for us
dwellers near our great metropolis the purity of
the air is not of so much moment), and this is
more easily obtained in a temporised shelter
than in a small greenhouse, and, there being
more air, there can be a correspondingly larger
number of plants.—W., Norwood , Surrey.

Early Rhododendrons. — During the
dull days of winter the early Rhododendrons are
objects of interest when profusely laden with
brightly coloured blossoms. One is R. davuri-
cum, a shrub about a yard high, deciduous
during severe winters, but sub-evergreen in mild
ones. The leaves are small and dark green, and
tha flowers rosy purple, something like those of
Azalea amo?na. R. prcecox, the second sort
alluded to, is a hybrid between R. davuricum
and the Himalayan R. ciliatum. In this both
leaves and flowers are twice the size of those
of R. davuricum The blossoms are rosy lilac,
but they vary somewhat when produced under
different conditions. Another kind is R. Early
Gem, said to be a cross between davuricum and
prrecox, but it mo3t resembles the last-named
kind. Though frequently injured by frosts when
in the open ground, these Rhododendrons are
valuable under glass, as without any forcing
they can be had in bloom at a time when forced
plants form the bulk of flowering subjects in
both greenhouses and conservatories.—H. P.

Diosma ericoides.— This handsome little
Heath-leaved Diosma is invaluable for furnish¬
ing neat sprigs of green, with a pleasant aromatic
scent, for button-hole bouquets. It thrives in
sandy peat in a cool greenhouse ; the flowers are
very minute, of a whitish colour, and borne
singly at the ends of the branchlets; it bears
cutting to any extent. It is also a good room
plant, bearing confinevhent well, and esteemed
For the pleasing fragrance possessed by its
flowers and '

Begonias for winter decoration. —

The shrubby types of flowering Begonias are
always useful when employed in association with
other flowers in a cut state, or a few distinct
kinds look exceedingly well on sideboards
grouped by themselves along with their own
foliage. Of kinds to be had in flower now may
be named B. manicata, one of the prettiest that
can be had for trumpet vas**s to give a finish and
relief to larger varieties of flowers. This sort
will also last a long time in flower in the conser¬
vatory if the plants have not been brought on
in too much heat and moisture ; when allowed
to expand their spikes in a light, airy house they
last much longer. B. nitida odorata is also now
opening its most forward flowers. This sort is not
grown nearly so much as it ought to be, seeing
that it produces a continuous crop of flowers for
several months in succession. It is, in short,
one of the most useful as well as one of the most
elegant white kinds grown. A little later on
this kind will be used in the conservatory,
in which it is most valuable. It has, also,
as its name indicates, the advantage of emitting
a slight perfumo. In a cat state well developed
spikes look well on a fringe of Maiden-hair Fen.
in a good-sized vase, with the addition of other

flowers over and above them. B. semperflorens
is another good winter-flowering kind which is
always useful. B. Saundersi is likewise a valu¬
able kind ; flowering shoots of this variety cut
with a good length of stem can be worked
effectively into many kinds of arrangement*
The tall and straggling growing B. fuohsioides
is very effective in a cut state. B. ascotensis
also yields useful spikes. The foliage of some
larger growing kind will be valuable to use along
with the three last-named varieties ; we find that
of B. metallica useful in many ways. The new
variety shown of late under the name of B.
socotrana promises to be an invaluable addition
to the winter-flowering section of these popular
plants. All the kinds just named will be found
now to be of service in a cut state. Others there
are that will do a good turn during the summer
in conjunction with the tuberous-rooted
varieties, and other sorts are valuable late in
autumn, especially B. insignia. In gathering
flowers of Begonias cut them in each case with
as long a stem as can well be had, and also give
them as much water as can be safely used.
This will help to keep them fresh somewhat
longer than would otherwise be the case.

Preserving: bedding: plants in winter.
—The following plan, which I have tried with
fair success for the last two winters, may be of
some use to some of your readers who are situ¬
ated as I am, viz., without the proper means of
keeping their bedding plants alive through the
winter. The idea suggested itself to me in the
spring of 1882. While turning over a rubbish
heap composed of old Cabbage stumps, leaves,
the last year’s bedding plants, &c., I found that
such plants as Geraniums, Heliotropes, Lobelias,
Ageratums, and even a spray or two of Mesem-
bryanthem um, looked fresh and green. To
see if any life existed in them, I potted some of
each, and placed the pots in a cold frame, and
was agreeably surprised in a few days to find
that they had begun to shoot, even the Mesem-
bryanthemum. My success made me resolve to
try the plan on a better scale the next autumn.
Accordingly, about the end of October, when
there were plenty of tree leaves about, I pulled
up all the bedding plants, mixed them with
leaves in a heap which I made under an Apple
tree, afterwards covering the heap over with
some old bags. I uncovered the heap about the
middle of the following March, and was success¬
ful in bringing to life all the Geraniums, some
Heliotropes, Ageratums, Lobelias, Calceolarias,
Mesembryanthemums, &c. Last year I adopted
the same plan, and was equally successful,
although I left the plants in the beds a week or
two later. After picking the plants out of the
heap, I take the tenderest first, and after patting
them in light sandy soil, I plunge the pots in a
gentle hotbed (which I prepare for the purpose)
for about a week. At that time I can see which
aro alive. As a rule I lose no Geraniums,
soon as growth gets so far advanced, I begin
propagating, making every small sprig a cutting,
and keep on till the end of May, when 1 can fill
a few good-sized beds, which compare favour¬
ably with those of my neighbours, who keep
theirs in a heated greenhouse. I cannot say
how the project would do iu a severe winter,
but should think that if the heap were well
covered over and kept so far dry, there would
be no fear of frost hurting them. Of course,
a frame is necessary to start tho plants after
potting.—D. D.

12358 —Pruning Myrtl63.— If the plant* became
stunted they should bo repotted into larger pots. All tho
pruning required is to cut buck any branches that grow
out of form. This may be done now or in the spring.—

J. D. E.

12302.—Cool Orchids.—Any common green Mo*
that can be readily obtained will * ot do for cool Orchids.
The best compost, and that which will grow nine-tenth*
of the Orchids well, is equal parts Sphagnum Moss, turfy,
fibrous peat, and broken bits of flower pots ; tho potshcid*
should be clean.—J. D. E.

The double Plum for forcing:.— This asifal
hardy ehtun (Prunus sinensis albo-fl-pl.) is an excelled
subject for forcing into flower early. Its blossoms are pure
white ; they aro so double, as to resemble diminutive
rosettes, and every slender shoot is thickly wreathed with
them.

12350 —Chrysanthemums for conservatory
decoration —The following twenty-four Japanese kinds
wilt be sure to give satisfaction Agreement* de la
Nature, Bouquet Fait, Criterion, Cry Kwang, Duchess of
Albany, Elaine. Fair Maid of Guernsey, George Gonioo,
James Salter, L’pr Du Rh?n, Lauy Selbonic. Lisle des
; Plaisirs La Nymphe, Li Charineuae, La Frisure. M*dame
j Bortier Rendatier, Mona MouMllao, Madame Lemoine, i
Drphee, Peter the Great, Parasol, Red Dragon, Triomphe j

1 pa ig m '

Dec. 27 , 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

NOBLE SUB-TROPICAL PLANTS.

With the aid of Palms, Cycads, Tree Ferns,
and Masas, it is possible for us to reproduce in
our large glass structures some of the most
striking scenery of tropical plants. Out-of-
doors, too, we have been shown in Battersea
Park that by certain combinations of striking
and distinct tropical and semi-tropical fine-
foliaged plants in sheltered positions, a con¬
siderable charm may be added to our gardens.
Flowers do not give that appearance of grandeur
and repose which belong to the noblest of our
cultivated fine-leaved plants, and particularly
to those that belong to the orders just men¬
tioned. It would be impossible to produce by
means of flowering plants the grandeur and
beauty with which most of us are familiar in the
Crystal Palace, the large house at Chatsworth,
and the Palm stove and temperate house at
Kew. Here flowers would fall short of the
effect created by a tasteful combination of huge
plumose, feathery, and fan-like leaves, which are
either arrsinged in enormous heads on tall, stout
trunks, or nestle thickly together upon the apex
of a short stem. Unfortunately, we are unable
to use such giants as are here described in the
sub-tropical garden in summer, owing to the
havoc that would be made amongst their fragile
foliage by strong winds and heavy rains. Some
of the Cycads are, however, stout enough to
bear our stormiest summer weather, and these
might be used for out-of-door arrangements for
at least one-third of the year. Many Palms,
too, some of the dwarfer Tree Ferns, and even
Musas might be employed in producing a new

8cb-tropica! plants—Banana, Tree Fci n, and Cycas.

and tropical effect in the more sheltered parts
of the garden during the warmer portion of the
year. The contrast formed by placing such
plants amongst those that are hardy with us
always adds materially to the charm of our
gardens, giving the whole what is termed a tropi¬
cal appearance. We have no forms of foliage
that bear any resemblance to the leaves of tne
plants just mentioned, and indeed it may be
said of Palma, Musas, Tree Ferns, and Cycads,
that they are the most characteristic forms oi
tropical vegetation with which we are familiar.
It is interesting to observe the total absence
from the flora of nearly all countries north of
the Tropics of any representatives of these four
families of giant foliage plants. Palms, Musas,
and Cycads constitute three distinct natural
orders, whose geographical range is almost
exclusively tropical, whilst of Ferns the species
found in northern countries are all dwarf and
creeping in habit; not one of them possesses
anything like a stem such as belongs to what we
call Tree Ferns. In countries south of the
Tropics, however, some of the noblest of arbores¬
cent Ferns flourish in great abundance. Not
only in New Zealand and Tasmania, but even
as far as the Straits of Magellan and Campbell
Island, and South Chili, Tree Ferns are found
wild, and from some of these countries, and
more ©specially from New Zeallmd. a large pro,;
portion of tlhe splendid arl)pre|d|gn| F< ins Lat

grace European gardens have been obtained. The
enterprise of the plant collector has, however,
done much to equalise the distribution of these
children of the south, so that one might almost
say that the number of them cultivated in
northern countries equals, if it does not sur¬
pass, the number of specimens that exist in a
wild state.

VIOLETS.

“Come with me where Violets bloom,” but
not to the woodland dell or hedgerow, nor to
the flower border at this season of the year, but
to the spare greenhouse, peach-house, orchard-
house, wall case, or pit—it matters not where,
if space and light, with just enough artificial
heat to exclude frost when necessary, can be
had; then you shall have Violets from
September till March, sweet and abundant as
were ever plucked from plants in the open air
in the genial spring time. To do this well, how¬
ever, due care must be taken in the selection of
sorts, and in the preparation of the plants ; for
all do not blossom with equal freedom at this
season of the year, and space under glass is far
too precious to be wasted upon sorts with
flowers few and far between, however large or
fragrant they may be. We want plenty of
flowers continuously, and ought not to be
satisfied unless our plants are now crowded with
flowers, fully expanded, mingled with buds in
various stage of growth. No sort, new or old, with
which I am acquainted, answers this want so well
as the single Blue Russian, a “ modest Violet ”
in comparison with several of the newer giant
varieties. Its foliage and blossom are both
small; but for these faults we have ample com¬
pensation in its full spreading growth, and in its
persistent and abundant habit of flowering
throughout the winter. Of almost equal merit
as a winter Violet is Devoniensis, with deep
purple and very sweet flowers, which are pro¬
duced freely in August and onwards through¬
out the autumn and winter. My bed of Violets
under glass covers an area of some 300 square
feet, not in patches, but in a dense mass of deep
green healthy foliage, and if the flowers are
untouched for a few days, they open so fast as
to literally “ scent the airbut, although we
frequently pick a dozen fine bunches at a time,
and always keep a certain number of vases
supplied with them, yet the demands for this
favourite flower are so pressing that the bed is
rarely seen at its best.

It may help those who are desirous of acquir¬
ing information about this matter if I give the
details of culture by which I have been for years
so successful. In March, as the plants cease to
bloom, they are removed to some sheltered spot
in the open air, and hardened off by gradual
exposure, mats being thrown over them if cold
winds or frost prevail. They are then pulled to
pieces, the main stem and roots being discarded,
and the strongest branches, which from their
prostrate habit are found to have made rootlets
along part of the lower side, are dibbled into a
border of rich soil 8 inches apart. With due
attention to watering and weeding they grow
freely and well, failures being rare, and by the
end of August they are nice spreading, vigorous
plants, admirably suited for any purpose.
About the middle or third week of Septem¬
ber the plants are lifted with a ball of
soil attached to the roots, and taken into
winter quarters, where they are packed closely
together with enough leaf-mould to fill the
spaces between, and to slightly cover the roots
and soil brought in with them. A thorough
watering through the rose of a watering-pot
finishes the operation. In a few days the
appearance of fresh leaves and flowers gives
the best evidence that all is well, and for the
next five months there will be plenty of flowers.

Few and simple as are the points of culture
necessary to success, all of them are to be
regarded as indispensable, and any negligence
with respect to them will lead to partial or total
failure. For example, old plants never flower
so freely as young ones; therefore renew the
stock of plants annually, and be careful to do
this immediately after the flowering is over in
March. Leaf growth quickly follows the
cessation of flowers, and a week or two
of it before the division of the plants brings
a crop of tender foliage, which succumbs when
the offsets are subsequently exposed to the
bright sunshine and drying winds of spring.
Given light, air, and protection from frost, the

position under glass is comparatively imma¬
terial, the plants answering equally well upon
a raised shelf as upon the floor, if due care be
taken to pack plenty of soil about the roots,
and a little more water should be occasionally
given if shelves are used.

One word more as to sorts. Although the
large-flowered varieties do not flower freely til 1 ,
spring, yet then the magnificent flowers of
Victoria Regina, Odoratissima, and The Czar
come bo plentifully, and are so useful, that,
wherever it can be done, space should then be
given for as many of them as possible.— Field.

Hints to beginners.— The letter in Gar¬
dening of December 13th, entitled “ Hints to
Beginners.—No. IV.,” contains some assertions
which require examination. The first paragraph,
headed “Vermin,” condemns tile and Box
edgings, and strongly recommends instead
“stones carefully bedded and arranged bo that
there are no lurking places for vermin amongst
or under them.” This sounds well; but rav
impression is, that stones covered with rock
plants would harbour vermin much more than
the despised tiles or Box edgings. My own
experience, which extends over many years,
teaches me that Box never harbours slugs or
snails, whereas I seldom raise a flint or stone of
any size without finding vermin underneath.
The next paragraph, headed “Arrangement,”
invites still more criticism. The writer describes
a garden laid out according to his own idea of
beauty, and appears to think that it defies
criticism. Perhaps such a garden might be
beautiful; but 1 must confess that the
description fails to fascinate me. The wild
luxuriance strived after, the absence of all
formal edgings, the avoidance of any massing
together of tne same plant, which according to
his idea bespeaks the highest intelligence and
truest artistic feeling, strike others m quite a
different light. I do not wish to condemn any
one Btyle of gardening, and am myself a great
admirer of rock bedding and herbaceous borders
in their place; but to lay out a whole garden after
such principles as those advocated in the article
referred to, appears to me a great mistake ;
whilst the unhesitating condemnation of every
style but his own shows a narrowness of appre¬
ciation greatly to be deplored in one who is en¬
deavouring to instruct others in the science of
gardening. After many years of experience in
both large and small gardens, I have no hesita¬
tion in saying that no garden appears to me perfect
without the massing together of plants in geo¬
metrical order, so as to produce that blaze of
colour unrivalled by any other arrangement.
Moreover, the edging of paths and beds cannot,
in my opinion, be kept too neat or well de¬
fined ; and the proposed scheme of employing
Moss and creeping plants as a means of doing
away with the trim turf edging round flower
beds or paths would never be tolerated for a
moment in my garden. It would be an eyesore
to me each time I walked abroad. My object
in writing this letter, however, is not to uphold
one system of planting more than another, bat
to register a protest against these constantly
recurring papers inveighing against a style of
gardening approved by so many and competent
judges. When we consider that the best and
most beautiful gardens in the oountry invariably
show examples of the “ massing ” principle, it
does seem strange that the plan should be held
up to such perpetual ridicule by an obscure
writer who fails to be able to appreciate it.
Every man has a right to express his own
opinion on such points, but it is a little
strong when he claims for his view all the
intelligence and artistic perception which the
question involves, as if he were dealing with
matters of fact instead of feeling. The world is
certainly large enough to contain gardens of all
kinds, and in most of these there is space for
examples of both styles. This is the case in my
own, and the variety thus displayed seems to
me far more pleasing than anything that could
be produced by the repetition of any one idea.—
Toleration.

l‘23Ci.— Manure water for trees.— At this time of
year, and after the late rains, trees and plants would no*
be much benefited by cesspool manure. Much, however,
depends upon the soil. If light the manure would do DO
harm to large old fruit trees, but if clayey it would bw
best placed on nemo vacant laud if possible. If applied
during g-rawis*.: ttir ss ijj spring and it k net io wouldhatsr
the most benellpfal effect.—K .^li ji ^j n it i^ai

540

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 27, 1884.

SOME ADVICE ABOUT GREENHOUSE
AND HOTHOUSE BOILERS.

Tiie purpose of the present writer is not toargue
in favour of hot-water pipes, or of any other
system of heating, That is a theme which has
been amply discussed in this journal from time
to time. His object is rather to tender seme
advice to those amateurs who possess boilers,
and to make some observations regarding their
management. A good deal of difference of
opinion exists as the desirability of building
boilers into greenhouse walls. An arrangement
of this kind has an advantage—it enables the
possessor to economise heat. If the greenhouse
is of such a size that the boiler can only just
heat the amount of piping employed, then
the economy is of importance. If, on the
contrary, the place be comparatively small, and
the stove has consequently plenty of power to
heat the length of pipes, the outside boiler is to
be commended, inasmuch as you can arrange
your hr e-hole and dampers to face in either of
three directions.

A stove acts best when a current of air sets
towards the fire-hole, and thus increases tke
draught. Contrariwise, a Btove is at its worst
if a wind blows from the baok. It induces a
current in the wrong direction, the fire is
deadened, and often goes out. You can
diminish a draught by closing your dampers,
but if the wind blows from the back you cannot
be sure of successfully coaxing your fire ; all
stoves, therefore, ought to be so placed as to
catch the prevailing breezes. The most con¬
stant wind in Great Britain is the south-west;
if, then, your boiler is in the open, the stoke¬
hole should, as far as possible, face south-west.
If your greenhouse is partially sheltered, some
careful observations of the deflection and eddy¬
ing of the westerly wind just at the point where
the building is placed should be taken, and the
stoke-hole should be so arranged as to take
advantage of the air current which mostly
prevails.

A very common fault with beginners is to
overdo the heat force. Either the length or
diameter of the piping is too great for the
number of cubic feet of air in the glasshouse,
or the boiler is too large either for the house or;
the pipes. There is often an ill-defined desire to'
be “on the safe side,” and a boiler is procured
sufficiently large to heat a length of piping which
would not only be ample for the greenhouse, but
which would go all round the kitchen garden as
well. The present writer desires, in particular, to
speak to those readers of Gardening— for they,
presumably, form the majority—who own an
amateurs greenhouse of some 14 feet by 10 feet,
or thereabouts. If the place has a span roof,
or a half-span, without much wall protection, a
flow and return pipe 4 inches diameter would
not be too much if carried round the front and
both ends. If it be a lean-to, piping along the
front and one end should suffice. If the build¬
ing be touched on two sides by an inhabited
house, with, perhaps, some protection on a third
side, less heat will be required, and 3-inch
pipes should be ample if placed down the front
and one end, or even the front only. One of
the smallest size boilers—generally called by the
trade “No. 1”—should give sufficient heat power
in any one of these cases.

Now, your amateur, when first he sees his
boiler fixed, and his pipes with the orthodox
rise from the fire to ensure a circulation of the
heated water, is apt to be jubilant. His troubles,
if he has previously struggled on with lamps,
heat-generators, or what not, are presumed to
be at an end. He gaily kindles his fire, opens
his dampers, and closes himself within his
paradise. He lights and contemplatively
smokes the calumet of peace.

He nips decaying foliage here, and stakes a
plant there. He places his hand upon tho pipes
and discovers them hot already. In nicotine
vapour, so fatal to greenfly, his fancies develop
and extend. The heated water rushes around,
through the flow and return, with ajpleasant hiss¬
ing sound. Presently a Bubdued gurgle, then a
louder one, then a decided bubbling, and there
is a geyser-like eruption of boiling water and
steam, to the detriment of the plants close by,
and to the intense disgust and bewilderment
of the aforesaid amateur. This is the ex-

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ft-

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h

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ifi

:d

The phenomenon may be accounted for
in three ways. Firstly, the fire may be too
fierce ; treatment, close the dampers, and, if
necessary, reduce the combustion by the freer
admixture of rubbish with the fuel. Secondly,
the rise in the pipes may be too great, which
brings the heated water back to the fire too
soon, and rapid boiling is the result; treatment,
reduce the rise in the pipes to 1 inch in every 10
feet. Thirdly, the pipes since setting may have
sunk, so that instead of a rise there is a fall from
the boiler. In such a case a vacuum is created
at the stove end wherein steam is generated.
As the manufacture of steam in this vacuum
goes on the pressure increases until the steam
and air are forced towards the easiest outlet,
that outlet being generally the feeding cistern.
The cure in the latter case is obvious. As a
safeguard, an escape pipe should be provided
communicating with the outer atmosphere.

There are many diverse opinions as to the
proper method of lighting a fire in a stove.
The best and quickest way is this :—After the
stove has been emptied, put a layer of cinders,
with some small coal at the bottom ; then drop
a fair quantity of red coals upon them, a couple
of dry chips to produce a flame, and then fill up
with fuel. The best fuel is three parts of what
is known as “ breeze ” (small coke), to one of
coal slack, with as many cinders from the
kitchen grate as can be obtained. Care must
be taken, in freshly lighting a fire, not
to encourage too fierce a heat at first. Cast
metal if subjected to a very sudden expansion
is liable to crack. The writer has known a
stove to split, with a report like a pistol shot,
from this cause. There should net, however,
be cause for frequent fire lighting; a steady,
constant warmth may be easily maintained by
any person who takes the trouble to Btudy this
stove for a time ; the proper amount of coolness
can then be regulated by varying the ventila¬
tion. A “ Star ” or a “ Sun ” slow combustion
stove can be almost constantly kept just alive,
and when in this state, by slightly increasing
the draught, the contents may be drawn into a
state of red-heat in a quarter of an hour. Care
only is required. Blame is frequently placed
upqn the boiler, when the real fault is with the
fejrtng.

In arranging the fire for the night the state
of the wind should on no account be neglected.
If a Btiff, favourable breeze is blowing, a very
small aperture should be allowed for draught to
enter the stove. If there be a dead calm, or if
the wind be contrary, the damper should be
fairly well open. With every care, however, a
sudden change from gale to calm, or vice versn,
will occasionally upset the stoker’s calculations.
In the former case the fire will deaden, and in
the latter may become so brisk as to blow itself
out in two or three hours. But the blame must
not be placed to defect in the stove. The fault,
if any, rests in the proverbial fickleness of our
insular climate.

Derby. C. J. P.

THINK OF THE BIRDS.

I The birds in the illustration evidently appre¬
ciate the bounteous Christmas repast provided
for them. This little picture suggests what we
might all do in the way of relieving want and
suffering amongst the feathered tribe in those
periods of severe weather which so sorely try
their powers of endurance. When frost locks
the earth in its iron grip, and a thick mantle of
snow covers up the happy hunting grounds of
our little warblers for days or weeks together,
the exercise of a little charity cannot be mis¬
placed. A handful or two of crumbs thrown
out daily, a few meat bones suspended by a
string out of pussy’s reach, will give life and
health to many a poor famine-struck bird. It
is Christmas time, and if the weather should by,
such as to induce you to creep a little nearer to
the fireside, please, gentle reader* think of the
birds, and, if you do so, they will, reward
you by sending forth notes of joy and praise
when the sweet springtide once more brings us
its hopes and pleasures. The poor little wren,
the ever-cheerful robin, aud the sad-coloured
hedge sparrow, are real benefactors,. and we
may not let them starve when we have enough
and to spare. The thrush and the blackbird
mix good with evil, and who, even to save a
little fruit, would like to wholly lose their

A Christmas Shea: for tho Birds.

Market vegetables.— The best paying
crop at the present time is the hardy green,
which is making as good paying prices as for
some time past, and with it, as a matter of
course, the larger-headed Cabbages and Savoys.
The latter, however, arc not a good crop gene¬
rally, the weight of such per acre being far
below average. Brussels Sprouts are fetching
good prices, and in a general way the produce
is an inferior one, comparatively speaking.
Though the purple Broccoli crops look green,
the gross bulk, owing to the leafy nature
of tho growth, will be much below aver¬
age. This points to the probability of
the hardy green and spring Cabbage—the
supply being not unlimited — continuing to
fetch good prices until the Pea crops come in.
As regards the autumn-sown and transplanted
Cabbages, a large breadth is planted of fine
large seedling plants. Though these do not
look very green and fresh upon the ground, they
are rapidly rooting, and will, no doubt, follow¬
ing the first permissible hoeing, advance apace.
The Spinach supply has greatly exceeded the
demand Many growers, owing to the past
drought, being unable to get out winter Greens,
or sow* their Turnip seed in due time, put in
extra quantities of Spinach seed, the result
being that, with good crops, salesmen’s returns
have been as low as one shilling per bushel.

melodious notes. Even the house Bparrow,
audacious and greedy though he be, and of whom
—as was once said of an English sovereign—

“ No one says God bless him !” even he, as he
sits on the frozen bough with drooping wings
and puffed-out breast—the very picture of famine
and misery—is an object of pity, and may par- ^
take of man’s bounty. It is Christmastide, q
when transgressions are to be forgotten, and *
when kind and merciful as well as gladsome ti
thoughts should prevail, therefore let us not ^
think of the little losses and annoyances which «]
some of our feathered songsters inflict upon us ^
at certain times of the year, but, if needful,
imitate the example of the owner of yon pigeon : »j
loft, and provide out of our plenty a bounteous <
Christmas meal. The piercing wind, as it
whistles through the leafless trees and hedge-
rows, is enough to bear without hunger ; there- >
fore, I say, kind reader, whether it be Christmas 3
or later, think of the birds. Byflbet.

EASILY GROWN GREENHOUSE PLANTS. ^
“R. G. R.” makes the following inquiry a 1^
week back, which I daresay many In a similar ^
position would like to see satisfactorily (
[answered

I I have a very small greenhouse (Bays
[M^yAjjeans of a

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN' j

Dec. 27, 1884.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

5 41

brick flue, and should be glad if any of your
correspondents would furnish me with a short
list of the best inexpensive plants to put into it,
such os arc easy of cultivation by an amateur,
and not wanting much attention, and yet be able
to out a few flowers, say once a week all the year
round, particularly in the winter and early

•It would be easy to name a number of plants
that would provide a few flowers onoe a week
all the year round, but to secure that with one
very small house would require some manage¬
ment. A good deal can be done, however, even
with one house, provided the plants are well
•elected, and well-timed for their purpose. The
best way with a small house would be to make
it a moderately warm house in winter and
spring, and a greenhouse in summer. It
would be a help if some kind of store pit
could be provided in which to store things as
they went out of season. Dwelling-house
windows, or even a light loft, would answer
lor such a purpose. "R. G. R. M eould make
good use in spring of such things as Narcissus,
Hyacinths, Crocus, Lily of the Valley, Cine¬
rarias, Pelargoniums, Amaryllis, Heliotropes,
Imantophy Hums, Lobelias, Chinese, and common
Primroses in variety, Spinets, Violets, Forget-
menots, and indeed any good hardy plants of
not very coarse habit; also Azaleas, Rhododen¬
drons, Genistas, Acacias, Deutzias, Camellias,
Laurustinns, and especially Roses, all of which
do well in a cool greenhouse, and will provide
flowers for at least three or four mouths
between January and June. The common
Indian or greenhouse Azalea will, of itself, pro¬
vide a very fine and varied display of colour
with little trouble ; and the common hardy,
fragrant Azalea will also succeed well beside
them, and will force readily if lifted immediately
out of the ground. All these produce gay and
beautiful flowers, and the list does not include
any subject diflicult to cultivate. After May,
dependence would have to be placed on Pelar¬
goniums (zonal and fancy), Calceolarias, Fuchsias,
Liliuma, Salvias, Agapauthus, Heaths like E.
hyemalis and Wilmoreana, Verbenas, Petunias,
Heliotropes, Campanulas, Salvias, Valotas, and
the like. From May to November would be found
the most difficult season to provide a varied supply
of flowers, and much dependence would have to be
placed on the various fine kinds of Pelargoniums
for quantity ; but "R. G. R.” could perhaps
dispense with greenhouse flowers at that season
n he has an outdoor garden, and would do
better to use his one house for the preparation of a
winter and spring supply, as far as it will go.
It will serve to grow zonal Pelargoniums for
blooming all through the winter; and to grow
several of the splendid Bouvardias for the same
•oason. Cinerarias, Cyclamens, Prjmroses,
Amaryllis, and other bulbs. Contemporaneously
hia forced Roses, Deutzias, Azaleas, and other
kinds of plants would be ripening their wood
and completing their growth out-of-doors, all
ready for introducing into the house from
November onwards. Chrysanthemums grown
out-of-doors all the summer would pro¬
mote a fine display of flowers from Novem¬
ber till February, by which time many
nice things would be in flower again.
Without scheming in this way he will
not succeed well, for he cannot provide
any variety or many good flowers from green¬
house plants that have to remain in his house
all the year round. He will have to depend on
a succession of the hardiest subjects he can find,
and introduce them as needful into the house,
which must never be kept at a temperature
above 50 degs. at night by fire heat, and from
5 degs. to 10 degs. higher by day, according to
the weather. Roses id pots. Genistas, Deutzias,
Acacias, Camellias, Spirjcas, Cinerarias, Bouvar¬
dias, Primroses, Pelargoniums, and bulbs, includ¬
ing the best Daffodils, Hyacinths, Tulips, and
Lilies, &o. t will have to be his mainstay during
winter and spring. He would do well to plant
aGIoire, a Marechal, and a Cheshunt hybrid Rose
against the gables or back wall of his greenhouse.

— -Jf'uld.

placed in water rapidly got limp and the reverse
of ornamental. However, a friend told me to
place a glass shade over them and to note the
difference. I did so, and the result was all that
could be desired. The expanded blooms stayed
fresh and crisp for ten days or a fortnight, and
the unopened blooms grewand opened perfectly.
Some of vour readers may be glad to know of
this simple remedy for the only drawback con
nected with these charming flowers. —F. T,

THE BUTTERWORTS.

(l'lNGUICULA.)

Tim is a cut of a family of plants little known—
at least so far as gardens are concerned - but
one deserving of cultivation all the same.
PerhaDa the most beautiful plant of the kind in
English gardens is the Irish Bufcterwort, which
is at once distinct and very graceful and in¬
teresting. It is found in bogs in the south of
Ireland, and grows easily in moist garden soil
in our gardens, or in the artificial bog, or even

'll

Italian Buttererorts (piuguicula hlrtiflora).

Hellebores as out flowers.—Referring
o what 11 W G.” says, allow metostate that it is

but too true that the tall-growing and beautiful
Hellebores of which he writes make but unsatis¬
factory subjects for the flower vase,
time I was vexed at findinj
H. colchicus and Benai

Digitized

the flower vote. Many a
finding that fine trusses of

in pots in a cold frame. It is a dwaif plant,
not reaching more than 4 or 5 inches high, and,
therefore, it should never be put with coarse or
big things—a common mistake in disposing of
alpine, rocky, aud bog plants, like putting the
mouse in the same Btable os the elephant ! The
species figured is the Italian Butterwort (Piugui
cula hirtiflora). This is a dainty little species
from Italy, and its flowera wfll endure fresh and
fair for eight or nine weeks. The plant has
delicate lilac-tinted blossoms, with a yellowish
white centre or eye, the margins of which have a
hairy fringe. Another variety bears larger pure
white flowers, but is in all other ways the same.
I grow it in little pans of wet Sphagnum stand¬
ing in sauoers of water, and so treated they
enjoy the hottest of bright sunshine. Our plants
were kept in a cool, airy porch, and might be
equally Well grown in a sunny window. The
kinds are very much alike, and the best we have
seen in all ways. It is quite hardy, of course,
but it may be kept in a cool window or cool
house near the glass, if there be no happy spot
in the open garden for it. F.

SEEDS OR SEEDLINGS.

I have been struck lately by a new phase in the
seed and nursery trade, which I think is likely
to have a great development in future, and make
gardening easier for many people. Hitherto we
have been in the habit of striking our own out-
tings of most plants and raising our own
seedlings, and all know the expense of such
work, lu numbers of cases it would be cheaper
to buy the plants ready for planting, and cease
propagating so much at home; and this, it
seems, is what we are likely to come to before
long. At one time gardeners propagated their
own fruit trees, Roses, pot vines, and many
kinds of shrubs ; but now we find that, sb a
rule, the nurseryman can supply us cheaper
with these than we can raise them ourselves.
Some enterprising members of the trade are now
asking 44 Why buy seeds ?” and incur all the
trouble of raising and nursing the plants, suffer
disappointment and failure when you can buy
the plants—seedlings ready to hand, as cheap
almost as you can buy the Beed ? When we find
that such things as Stocks, Asters, Petunias,
Verbenas, Lobelias, Phloxes, Nicotian&s, Am&r-
anthua, Pyrethnxms, Hollyhocks, Pansies,
Violas, Wallflowers, and almost everything one
wants can be sent in excellent condition by
parcels post for from 3d. to Is. per dozen or
thereabouts, we may well exclaim, 44 Why, in¬
deed I” I ordered about twenty dozen of such
subjects the other week, and was really sur¬
prised at the excellence of the material re¬
ceived.

Primulas, true to name, Cinerarias, Cycla¬
mens, Begonias, Calceolarias, and all kinds
of seed ling greenhouse plants are now offered in
the same way, and for prices of Is. and upwards
only. Geranium cuttings, sturdy plants, and
popular kinds are offered at something less
than Is. per dozen, and no doubt the plan will
be extended to Carnations and many kinds of
popular hardy plants propagated and sold at
once ready to plant. How it comes the trade
can Bupply plants almost as cheap as they can
supply the seed will be apparent to most
people conversant with nursery work and the
trade. The main secret of the matter is, the
present demand for hardy plants from seed
and popular stove and greenhouse subjects like
Begonias, Primulas, and such like. I do not
wish to encourage unthriftiueas in the garden
by these remarks, but only to advocate what is
best and cheapest, when there is so much said
about the coBt of gardens ; and what I have said
in regard to flowers applies also to vegetables,
m&ny things, such as Broccoli, being cheaper
bought than raised at home, unless a very large
quantity is reoeived.

One word of caution is just needed. It is
important that those who depend on the
market for their plants, be they flowers or
vegetables, should have such plants as they
want and expect—I mean good plants—and of
course, as in the matter of Beeds, they may be
disappointed in this respect; but, so far as my
experience goes, this need not happen. I give
the order in time, and fully explain what I need,
and pay only after the goods are sent home,
after furnishing the necessary references if we
are unknown to each other. No right man
objects to deal on these terms. Among the
subjects I have had in this way within the last
;?ear or two are bedding Geraniums, Primroses,
Wallflowers, Stocks, Asters, Pansies, and indeed
anything I Btood in need of or wanted; and in
every case I have been perfectly satisfied with
my bargain.

For an outlay of a mere trifle lately I had as
many fine Wallflower plants of all the beat kinds
a9 would have made a good row 200 feet long ;
every plant sturdy, with excellent roots and
a head studied with flowers and buds. There
is, of course, much pleasure in seed raising, and
profit, too, for those who do it well and in cases
where it is worth while. But so many
only want a few of a subject, and naturally
those who raise each thing in quantity, and
take all care of it, ean best supply it. Each
plant has its own requirements in raising it from
seed ; and in the amateur's garden, who loves
variety, it may be very difficult to find time and
meanB to do many kinds of seed raising justice.
Apart from these considerations, there is the
comforting fact that when our own seeds or
growing plants fail we can call in the aid of the
trade r tiuer cl growing pincts and eoadlingi, ~

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

gardening illustrated

[Dec. 27, 1884,

542

Gladiola fromseed.— Of all hardy flowers,
there is none better than the Gladiolus; no flower
shows to more advantage in the garden, lasts
longer, or is more beautiful as a cut flower, yet
Gladioli do not seem to be grown as they deserve.
This comes from the high prices of named bulbs
in the seedsmen’s lists, and to the want of know¬
ledge that no flower is more easily raised from
seed. It is not well known that most varieties
of Gandavensis, the most effective section, may
be safely left in the ground for the winter.
Having raised many from seed of my own grow¬
ing, and from that which I have purchased, my
experience may be of use to others. I sow in
February in pans, in light sandy compost
These I remove to a vinery, to which moderate
heat is given, until the middle or end of April;
then into a cool greenhouse till June, watering
freely with weak liquid manure. In September
they are again brought into a cool house to pro¬
long their growth as much as possible. By
December they are withered, and are taken up
and packed in fine sand for the winter. In
March or April, according to the weather, the
small bulbs are planted out, 6 inches apart, in
a well-manured bed, with a covering of about
an inch over which some litter ia thrown, to be
removed as the bulbs begin to start. Liquid
manure is given occasionally, and a number of
the stronger bulbs will give flowers in Sep¬
tember or October. A much greater propor¬
tion will, however, not blossom, but give good
roots for planting out in the following spring.
All these I take up and preserve in sand,
leaving the weakly ones in the ground with
merely a slight covering of litter. In this way
they stood all the frosts of last winter without
loss. On lifting roots of plants which have
bloomed, many tiny bulbs will be found attached
to them. These I have found it advantageous
to plant out at once in the open ground, with a
covering of about 2 inches, and over that litter,
to be removed and the bed well raked in March,
treating them exactly like seedlings. I would
recommend amateurs to purchase a few bulbs of
first-rate quality of the colours desired. These
should be planted in 6 inch pots, and sufficiently
forced to be 3 or 4 inches high in May, then
they should be planted out in well-manured
ground.—A.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

12345.— Rolled plate glass.— In reply to
“Glass’s” query as to whether this kind of
glass is suitable for Vines, Cucumbers, Toma¬
toes, &c , allow me to state that my experience
is decidedly in favour of clear sheet glass,
especially for winter work, where every ray of
light is valuable; but in summer, when the sun’s
rays are strong, rolled plate glass acts as a
rtial shading, and is then beneficial. Although
ike Hartley’s rolled plate for conservatories
and lofty plant houses, I should by no means
use it for small fruit or plant houses, as clear
glass is in every way most desirable. Shadings
should always be easily put on and taken off, as
in our fickle climate a fixed shading is not at all
desirable, as the bene£t of full sunlight can
hardly be over-estimated. During the late
summer we had an unusual number of bright
days, and not for many years have garden
crops been so fine and generally satisfactory.—
J. G. H.

12351.— Oil -lamp stoves.— In reply to
“ J. V., New York,” I, for one, cannot honestly
say that Rippingille’s stove is altogether satis¬
factory. I never could entirely get rid of the
odour. After lighting, it would, perhaps, act
well for a few hours, but by the morning would
be smelling as badly as ever. A thoroughly good
miDeral-oil stove has yet to be introduced in
this country, and such a lamp heater ought to
be a fortune to the inventor. I have had no
experience of American stoves, but if they are
so unsatisfactory as “ J. V.” mentions, he might
possibly find some of the English makes an
improvement, although these cannot yet be said
to be perfect.—K., Southend.

12374.— Gas-stove. —You will find this
kind of stove very expensive and not certain in
its action. The quantity of pipe you mention
bhould have a small boiler, and the “ Lough-
Irorough ” boiler, to my mind, is a great step in
the right direction/fo? we small alhateurs; it
keeps alight many tourai ap l t qt4 hell; there

is no hanging up of the fuel; in fact, the space
for the coke seems hardly large enough for a
twelve hours’ supply ; but mine (a small one)
answers my purpose for over GO feet of pipe
admirably, and the only improvement required,

I think, is that the fire grate should slope back¬
wards in place of being level ; this would in¬
crease its lasting power of burning.—J. II. F.

- If “ Kent" will send his address to the undersigned

I might be able to help him.— L. Brockuam, Cottage ,
Wh it ton Hoad, Twickenham.

12377.—Autumn Crocus —The autumn Crocus seen
by “ Mrs. A. A.*’ is Stombergia lutea (Lily of the Field), a
native of Palestine.— Walmer.

- Sternborgia lutea is what you have had blooming

in autumn, and which bears yellow Crocus-like flowers.
It is the Lily of the Field, and if it grows well with you
and flowers freely you are fortunate, as it does not bloom
everywhere. It is a pretty hardy flower and distinct from
most others.—J. C. B.

-The so-called Crocuses which you saw In your

friend's garden a month ago would be Sternbergia lutea,
a species of Amaryllis, which grows and flowers very
freely in any good garden soil, and may be left in the
ground all the year round.—W. G. Durrant.

12360.—Paint for shed.—Dress the shed with gas
tar, adding one-third paraffin oil, and he will be quite
satisfied with its appearance and wear. It is far superior
to paint for fences and gates, especially at tho seaside.—
WALMER.

12314 —Chrysanthemums fading'.—I should say
the probable cause of your Chrysanthemums fading and
losing their leaves is that they have been frost bitten and
then not been shaded from the sun, or perhaps suddenly
brought into a warm greenhouse.—W.

-The probable cause of your Chrysanthemums

going off is that they may be standing on something that
may have stopped up the drainage, or may be standing
too close to one another to get proper air, or your
greenhouse may be badly ventilate!. Either would cause
lt.-J. B.

12345.— Chrysanthemum cuttings.— Take cut¬
tings as soon as possible and keep the old plants in cold
frames, only just protected from frost, but with plenty of
air until the cuttings are struck, in caao you should want
any fresh cuttings, then plant out into permanent posi¬
tions. —W.

12357 —Chrysanthemums after flowering.—
It is best to cut them down. Ashes round the plants pre¬
serve them from frost, but a mulching of dry, decayed
stable manure is better.—J. D. E.

12360 —Transplanting Gorse.— Gorse will bear
transplanting, ana it may be done now, or as long os the
weather is open, but it succeeds best when the Beeds of it
are sown thinly in a drill where they are to remain. The
seeds may bo sown in March.—J. D. E.

12303 — Japanese Chrysanthemums —The best
dozen distinct varieties are Beaute des Jardins, Elaine,
Fair Maid of Guernsey. Garnet, Jean Delaux, Lady
Selborno, Madame Clemence Andigeur, Mdlle. Lacroix,
Mons. A*toig, Rosea superba, Source d’ Or, and Thunberg.
—J. D. E.

Names of Plants next week.

To correspondents —Ivv (W. H Kitchener).—The
question had better be asked through the paper.

Mr. Tom Norris requests us to state that two corre¬
spondents of his have sent him stamps for goods and failed
to give their addresses.

QUERIES.

Rules for Correspondents.—A ll communications
for insertion should he clearly and concisely written on one
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should alicays bear the number and title of the query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper owing to the necessity oj
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the ilay
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com-
municalions the week they are received. Queries not answered
should be sent to us again.

Naming? plants or ftnit.— Four plants, fruits, or

jlou'ers only can be namzd at one time, and this only
when good spccimois are sent We do not undertake to
name varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these ean only be correctly named
by a sjiccialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or /nuf sent to
name should always accompany the parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately name d should send several
specimens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12393.— Magrnolias not blooming.— The tree in
question, mentioned in query 12315, does faco the south ;
its leaves arc snuff colour on the reverse side. Would it
be any use to dig in round its roots a load or two of gravel,
as“K. K.” says they grow well in gravel walks?— Crew-

KKUNK.

12399.— Rose cultivation.—Having a mixed variety
of sorts—Gloire de Dijon and others on own roots—all
Teas and Noisettes, in greenhouse, and being desirous to
train some as dwarf standards and some as pyramids,
I wish to ask •• J. D. E,” “A. D..” or other Rose
cultivators, what should be the height, and also the
diameter or thickness, and is the head to be trained to
wire framework, or tied in with string ? In what way
should it be tied, and which varieties are suitable as
standards ? This information from reliable sources will be
a stepping-stone to the furtherance of the cultivation of
the Rose ; and if the above-named would mention a good
work or two treating of the cultivation I should be thank¬
ful.— Rosb Trainer.

12400.— Strawberries.— We have just taken a place,
and there is a Strawberry' bed 27 feet long and 14 feet
wide, which has been very much neglected, the leaves of
the plants arc very small, and the plants and runners are
all one moss, with two great roots of Stinging Nettles in
the middle, and on one side of the bed some very long
Grass. Kindly tell me what ia bebt to be done with it.

I do not want to make a fresh bed this season If I can do
without, but I do want some Strawberries in the season if
possible.— Mrs. Booth.

12*01.—Quick-growing 1 Greens. -Could you also
tell me of anything I could set that would come on quickly
in the shape of greenstuff for table ? Would Spinach come
on soon, and what kind, and would it be best to make
holes and put the seed in, or in trenches? I should feel
so thankful if you could help me.— Mrs. Booth.

12*02.— Marechal Niel Rose.— Will anybody tell
me whether it is advisable to cut back a Marechal N*el
Rose under glass first year, well grown, if so, to what
extent?— Amateur.

12403 -Soil for potting? Lilies —What soil is most
suitable for potting Lilies auratum, 0lo ?— Amateur.

12404. — Cultivation of Geraniums. — Shoul d
Geraniuma(now in 4-inch pot*) be repotted into larger
pots in the spring? Hints on pot culture of Geraniums
and Pelargoniums very acceptable.— Am atkor.

12406.—Ungainly Yews.—I moved some eld Yew
bushes to form a hedge two years ago, and attended to
them properly in respect of soil and manure. They are
alive, but their branches are long and ungainly, and the
new growth is chiefly on them, whereas I want it to come
from the stem, so as to allow mo to out away the branches
and trim the bushes into proper hedge shape. Will it be
safe to cut them away and trust to tne main stems shoot¬
ing, and if so, at what time of year should it be done ?—
Mrs. G. Wkdowood.

12406.— Roses in pots.— I purchased a few Hybrid
Perpetual and Tea-scented Roses in pots some time ago,
and should be glad of a few hints on their cultivation.
Should I repot them now? The soil in which they are in
is hard and dry. I have them at present in a cool green¬
house.—J. D.

124C7.- Blight on Honeysuckle.— Honeysuckles
on three sides of my house have for the last two years
been visited by a blight. They come out healthy at first,
but soon get blacK and shrivelled at the points of the
shoots. The blight rapidly spreads, and vory soon the
whole beauty of the plant is lost, and nothing seen but a
black dirty mass of leaves What should I do to prevent
this? Would syringing with sulphur and water or with
Fir tree oil and water be effectual, and should the remedy
be used as soon as over the leaves develop, or should I
wait till the blight shows itself 7—Q. Q.

12403.— Leeks —My Leeks were sowed a great deal too
late this year, and have doue little good. Were I to take
up those which are not thicker than a stout pencil and
plant them in a freshly-prepared bed would they grow
ahead in spriug, thicken, and give me an early crop? —

Q- Q-

12409.— Continental Strawberries.— Have you or
any of your readers any experience in two Continental
Strawberries—Dr. Nicaise and General Polissier ? If so,
will you or they kindly report on their merits, especially
on the alleged autumn bearing qualities of the General.—

Q Q-

12410.— Bullfinches attacking Gooseberry-
bushes.— My Gooseberry bushes are attacked every year
in January by Bullfinches, which pick out and quite
destroy the buds of the plants. What is the best way of
getting rid of these mischievous birds? What is the best
way of using birdlime ?—W. F. G.

12411 .—Ground Ivy.—Which is the strongest-growing
Ground Ivy ? Can it be propagated by seed, and would it
make forage to be eaten off by sheep ; and where oould the
seed be obtained?—H. H. K.

12412.— Water Lily.— Will someone be good enough
to inform mo where I could procure cheap some plants
of the common white Water Lily ? -W. W.

12413. -Parrots losing feathers—Can you inform
me if a book is published on parrots, their treatment, and
diseases? I have a parrot now who is losing his breast
feathers.—J. W.

12414 .—Amaryllis and Clianthus Dampierl.—

Will anyone give me some information about tho
Amaryllis, the best kinds, and how to grow them ? Also
about Clianthus Dunpieri and puniceus ; which is tho
best, how should they be procured and managed? My
greenhouse is kept about 50 degs. in winter, with a little
increase of heat in the spring.—S.-C.

12415.— Cooking Kohl Rabl.— Would some reader
let me know how Kohl Rabi is cooked 7—Fort.

12416.—Marvel of Peru.—Last year I had a wish to
grow Marvel of Peru, seed of which I obtained. The
plants turned out to bo the night-scented variety. A
correspondent wrote lately in your paper oti the above
subject, but did not distinguish the two kinds by name.
I should be obliged if he or any other reader would advise
me on the subject.—J. W. W.

12417.— Work on plain drawing —Please let mo
know whore 1 could get a small work (cheap) on plain
drawing, such as flower beds, &c.—T. L.

12418.—Small work on Mushroom growing.
—May I ask you kindly to Inform me tho best way to
obtain full and precise information as to how to grow
Mushrooms ? Also how and where to buy the spawn and
sell the produce? I imagine that there may be some
small work dealing with that one subject. Mv idea is to
grow them wholesale in London and for the London
market; but I and my friends approach the subject in
absolute ignorance.— A Several. Years’ Subscriber.

12419.—Snowdrops.—Could Snowdrops be induoed to
flower in pots by the end of September next ? If so, when
should they be planted and what treatment given?—
Lizzie.

12420.—Quinces—I have been making some marma¬
lade from French Quinces -{English ones seem not to be
procured) and have saved a quantity of pips. Would it be
v.orth while rowing thoroj If so, when r.rd where 1 When

-■woud'-tlMy fntit ?—ILikaE I LLI iM UI j AI

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

F

Dsc. 27 , 1884]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

543

12421.—Oak tree.—An Oak tree in my grounds, about
thirty yean old is partially dead on one side. When ought
it to be pruned t Can anything be dono to improve its con¬
dition ? It is on sandy soil surrounded by a tuifed bank.

—TRAVELLER.

12422.— Pink Dracaena.— I have in my greenhouse a
pink Dracaena which is doing very badly. Would you
kindly give some instruction of management about it?—
C. G.

12423.— Name wanted —A friend has in her garden
a lovely flower. It has leaves like Spinaa Japonica, only on
a much larger scale, flowers after tho style of Ppiraeas, only
ip the shape of a bottle-brush, and not in bunches like the
Spiraeas, white in colour, about 5 feet or more high, and dies
down in autumn. She has written me that she has been
told it is called Actsea racemosa. I can find this in no cata¬
logue. and only once in the two volumes of the Garden that
I possess, and none at all in Gardening Illustrated. The
Garden says: ** A distinct and bold plant, and might be
admired by some, but ithas one of the most offensive odours
known among plants ” It is years since I taw it but I have
never forgot its extreme beauty. Will anyone kindly tell
me if it can be Actsea racemosa, and where I will be able
to buy a plant?— Mrs. L —[Most probably Actor a ; Ware’s,
Hale Farm Nursery, Tottenham.]

12424.—Removal of plants by rail.— Can anyone
give me any hints as to the best way to pack cool green¬
house plants ? I am going to move from the south to the
north of England during the second week in January. The
plants are mostly Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Ferns,
Begonias, Ac., in small pots. My plan is to pack the best
specimens in egg cases without lids, in their pots, and to
shake the mould off the rest and to pack them loosely in a
hamper. I have also some ungrafted Orange trees, 3 feet
high, in tubs. Would it injure them to shake the mould
from them and transplant them ? -Traveller.

12425.— Colouring 1 grreenhous© wall.— Will some¬
one tell me how to colour the inside brick wall of a lean-to
greenhouse, which measures 40 feet by 12 feet, a dark red,
and which has been whitewashed with lime but not
plastered ? It gives a very bare appearance to the house,
nothing looking well on the stand on account of the white
background. I think dai k red would be the best colour as
I have seen walls of the same description so coloured. Any
information on the subject will oblige— S. F.

12426.—Old vines v. young ones.— Last July I got
some j oung vines from an EDgiish nursery, which I planted.
They seem to have made some wood in the time, and now
1 have just got from a friend some old canes, which I am
ad\i»ed to plant, and to do so I must remove my young
onto. This I do not like to do, especially as tho roots of
tho old ones are so large that I must cut them. My border
is small. Any information will be thankfully received.—

IVEA.

12427.—Food for Nan goat.—I have had a small Nan
goat given to me which has been fed almost entirely on
corn, having had the run of a stable, and tho consequence
is that the is now very dainty, and docs not seem to relish
green stuff from the garden, Totato parings. Ac. Can any
reader say what amount of corn ought to be given to her,
and how many times per day, so as to keep ner in good
condition?— The Bird.

12428 — Late-flowering Chrysanthemums and
herbaceous plants.— I would feel greatly obliged if
you would favour me through your next issue with names
of, say, a dozen sorts of the best of each of the following
to grow for cutting for market: first, medium and Ut<-
flowering Chrysanthemums; second, hardy herbaceous
plants ; third, hardy annuals.—J. W. S.

well. Sometimes it appears to be eaten with greenfly,
and repotting has proved unsuccessful in curing it of those
pests. Could any reader of Gardening inform me what to
do with it?—A Constant Reader.

12437.— Cauliflowers starting. -What is the cause
of Cauliflowers starting, and how can it be prevented?—
Amateur Gardener.

12438. -Scarborough Lily and Aster eeeds.—

I have some seeds of the Scarborough Lily. Will i-omeone
be so kind as to tell mo how to start it? 1 have also some
seeds of aster for the past three summers. Is it still good,
or has it been destroyed by being kept so long ? It is still
in the envelope in which it came tome from the seedsman.
—A Constant Reader.

12439.— Temperature for Camellias. — What
temperature do Camelling require ? Will they bloom in a
house without artificial heat ? And how often and at what
period of the year do they require repotting?— A Constant
Header.

12440.—Reading-lamp cement.— Could any of
your correspondents tell us the composition of reading-
lamp cement ? Every y ear two or three of our lamps come
apait at the metal and glass junction, and if wo only had
the cement by us, we could fix the lamps together again in
five minutes. It is a greenish kind of compound, not very
hat d—like wax and whiting—but it does not seem to stand
the paraffin oil very well.—A. B. “ Practical ” asks the
same question in effect.

12441.—Filling orchard house.— Wo have just
built an orchard house 35 feet by 22 feet against a back wall
15 feet high, and we should be sornucu obliged if any of your
correspondents would advise us as to filling it. We want
to have four or five vines in the front and running up the
roof, and the rest for Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots,
choice Plums, Ac.; also could we unite the ornamental
with the useful? We thought we might have a few
Palms and sub-tropical plants, and also a few* large
Canchas and Azalias, Ac. The aspect is due south. Would
Py ramid Peaches answ er as they grow them in France as
well as on the walls; also what kind of Poaches, Ac., arc
best ?— Amateur.

12442.— Tomato difficulties.— I wish to ask Mr. W.
Barnes, the w riter of the fourth paragraph on page 455
of Gardening Illustrated, November 22nd, 1884, on
Tomato growing, the following question :—I have pluntcd
Tomatoes two y earn, and failed to get anything worth call¬
ing a crop, and that quite late in the season (September).

I had this y ear ten plants. They were very healthy and
robust. I thinned out the shoots and took out the tops
many times. They bloomed and fruited ; now I gathered
about a dozen Tomatoes from the lot. and last year's result
was similar. My greenhouse is 20 feet by 16 feet, and a
lean-to 10 feet high at the highest pitch and 5$ feet at the
lowest. There is a rich border all round ; it is heated with
hot water, and am never short of heat. My plants were
some of them in the borders and others in 10-inch pots.
Those in pots gave fruit sooner than those planted in the
border. They were never short of water, air, or attention.
I do not know the kinds I grew ; I purchased tho plants.
I should like to cultivate iu quantity for market purposes.
I mean to clear out all other plants and give tomato grow-
ing a chance.—J. T.

12143— Epimedium and Cimlcifugra. I had
given to me lately plants of Epimedium alpinum auraniia-
cum, and of Cimicifuga grandis. Will anyone kindly tell
me how high they grow, and what kind of soil and situa¬
tion they should have ; and also what like the flowers of
them are, as I can see nothing of them in any gardening
paper I have ?— Mrs. L.

12429.—Rose cuttings in bottles.—I am trying to
grow a dozen Roses in the manner described early last
summer ; but the cuttings I put in three months ago,
though most of them are Fresh and growing shoots from
each bud, make no roots. I cannot find your account of
the plan again, and shall be grieved to lose my hoped-for
plants next summer.— A Humble Pupil.

12430.—Foliage with Japanese Chrysanthe¬
mums.—I shall be glad to learn the views of amateur or
professional gardeners as to the best foliage to use with
Japanese Chrysanthemums, either in the specimen glass
or flower bowl. At present I am unaware of any foliage
plant growing in a similar temperature good for the pur¬
pose, and of course the various forms such as are seen in
Mad. C. Audi^uier, Fleur d’Hiver, and Fair Maid of
Guernsey, for instance, require different treatment. I
may remark that disbudding is far too much disregarded,
amateurs rushing to tho opposite extreme to the exhibitor.
Beauty of form is as much indispensable to a cultivated
eye as beauty of colour, and when three or four small side
bowers are seen protruding beyond that at the apex of
the stem, the former is destroyed, and the only result is
a eonfused coloured mass.—W. G. H.

12431.— Carpet bedding:.— I shall bo glad if any
reader of Gardening will give me the names of about a
dozen kinds of plants for carpet work, and also inform me
whether I can raise them from seed, or shall have to get
them in plants? Also whether hardy or not?—C arpet.

12432.—Negflected fruit trees.—I have just taken
a house to which is attached a large garden fairly stocked
with fruit trees—Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, Goose¬
berries, Raspberries, and Currants. They have all evidently
been thoroughly neglected for a good while, and every tree
is choked with growth in all directions; but still they look
healthy and are not old trees. I should be glad of a few
concise, clear directions as to what should be done to them
as to pruning, training, and manu< ing.—A Beginner.

12433.— Blight on Brussels Sprouts. — My
Brussels Sprouts and those of my neighbours have been
attacked by a blight, which infests them terribly. Can
vou tell me of any remedv, for at present they seem use¬
less ?—W. II. R.

12434.— Hyaclnthus candicans.— When is iho
right time to plant, and what is the proper treatment of
this bulb?- Rattler.

12435. -Microscope for gardening.— will some
reador kindly give me information as to wh*-re I can pro¬
cure a good microscope, and about wh a t price, for gardon-
ng purposes? - Insect

12436 —Sweet 8cented Verbena.—I have a pot
of Sweet Scented Verbena for the past three years ; during
that time it has lived, but/fievbr could be sai 1 to thrive

Digitized I VjO Q[C

12444.— Bee-keeping.— Would you or your readers
kindly give me, through your valuable paper, a little
practical information relating to bees? 1. Last month I
purchased two hives of bees, which had to travel a distance
by rail. During the journey the combs were loosened,
and when set oa floor boards dropped. I improvised two
old boxes into hives, and made bars to which 1 transferred
combs, and tied with string, and I find 1 hat string has cut
the combs, which have dropped an inch or more from 1 are.
They are light and want more feeding. Will they do if
allowed to remain os they are during the winter? 2. How
can I feed them ? I cannot get them to fetch sugar and
water from top. Perhaps the weather is too cold.— G. Holt.

12445 —Garden dictionary.— Can you or any of
your readers givo mo the name of the publishers of a
garden dictionary that was coming out in parts? I saw
the first part at a bookstall early inthoyear, but itslipped
my memory, and now the book attendant does not know
the publishers’ name. Can } ? ou tell me ?— Yaiibn. [A’nraar
Office, Strand.]

12446.— Stove for greenhouse.— I have a small
greenhouse about 6 feet wide and 7 feet long. Would
you inform me w hat sort of a stove I could get for it, the
cost, and how long it would burn without attention ?—
C. Giblktt.

12447. -Morello Cherry.— I have a wild Cherry
which I desire in the spring to turn into a Morello Cherry.
Ii budding or grafting the proper way ?—W. L. O.

12448. -Rose Acacia not flowering.— About 20
years ago I planted a young Rose Acacia tree, then about
6 feet high, and the thickness of an ordinary ruler. It
flowered profusely for many years, when it was broken off
by a high wind. It then sent up a strong sucker, which
has continued to grow very luxuriously for 10 or 12 years,
but has never flowered. Will someone kindly state the
reason? Is it necessary that these beautiful flowering
trees should be grafted or budded to cause them to flower,
and that this one has been broken off below the graft ? If
so, when is the best time to graft or bud it, and will it
answer to graft or bud it into itaolf ?—J. C. A.

12449.- Opening lantern sashes.- 1 shall feel
obliged if you or any of your readers can tell me if there
be any special kind of apparatus for opening and shutting
the gashes of a lantern on the top of a conservatory ; the
object being ventilation.—J. T. It.

12450.— Chinese Primulas.— Some of my most
vigorous Primulas (seedlings) commencing to droop, I
took them out of the pots to examine the drainage. When
1 began to handle them I found they were rotted through
about 2 inches below the collar. Seaiching for the reason,
I di-covered several large white maggots with brow*n
heads ; these I believe to be the cause, the drainage being

very good. Can any reader tell me if these are often
enemies to Primulas, and the remedy ?—T. M.

12451.—Parings of horses’ hoofs.—I have the offer
of the parings of horses’ hoofs from a shoeing forge. I
know* it contains a large percentage of nitrogen. Would
any reader of Gardening kindly inform mo if it would be
good for Chry santhemum growing, and in what way
should use it?"— W. M.

12452.—Poultry houses.—I am thinking of establish¬
ing separate van* for poultry in wooden houses, to contain
forty or fifty hens each, but do not know of what dimen¬
sions the houses should be to contain and keep healthy
that number of fowls. Can you inform me ?— Plus Ultra.

12453.— Leaf mould and Hollyhocks.— As I can
get any quantity of leaves jUBt now*, I shall feel obliged
to be informed how I can convert them into leaf mould,
and if they can be ready for use as mould in spring. In
the issue before last of Gardening Illustrated, “ J. D.’
describes Hollyhocks 0 feet in diameter. Am I doing
wrong in removing all growths from the root except the
main stem, and in cutting away all side branches? I was
instructed to this effect.— A Beginner.

12454.—Treatment of Tuberoses.— Will any one bo
kind enough to detail to me in full the treatment that
Tuberoses require ? If they are annuals ? What tempera¬
ture do they require? I have become possessed of a few
bulbs and I do not know what to do with them at present.

1 am forcing them in a hotbed as I am told they require to
be started in heat.—A Constant Reader.

12455 —Flowering Rhododendrons.— Allow me
to ask "J. D. E." the names of about six of the best distinct
colours and free-flowering Rhododendrons suitable for town
culture, open air. and six for greenhouse pot culture, and
the treatment pot Rhododendrons require?— Rhododen¬
dron.

12456 —Filling an orchard house.— We have
lately built an orchard house about, 40 feet by 22 feet, and
16 feet high, against a south back wall, and we should be
much obliged for advice os to filling it. We propoto
having vinesup the front and roof, and Peaches, Nectarines,
and Apricots on the back and side walls. Would they also
do as standards in beds as grown in France? Also which
kinds are best ? We want, too, to combine tho ornamental
with the useful, and have Palms, Camellias, and Azaleas,
either in pots or tubs, or in the ground. Which would be
the best, and how arranged ? Also what heat should we
keep it at in winter and summer, and how proportion our
space best between the three families who arc to reside
there—the vines, the stone fruit, and the shrubs and
Palms ? Also could wc have any more ornamental plants,
such os Creepers, Orchids, 4c., and what kinds?—
Amateur.

12457. — Lantanaa and Lasiandra.-1 am a great
admirer, of Lantanas and Lasiandra macrantha, but
cannot manage either satisfactorily. The Lantanas flower
well, but they make little growth, and their foliage is
covered with a black blight, which seems to change to a
white kind of aphiB. Mine are three-year-old plants.
The Laeiandras look perfectly healthy, but do not flower.
They arc also three years old. Both are kept in a warm
greenhouse.—Mrs. G. Wedgwood.

12458.— Plates In “Garden.”— Is a list published of
the coloured plates of flowers that have appeared in The
Garden?— Mm. G. Wedgwood [Yes ; of all back plates on
sale. The Vols. contain indices of plates and cuts.]

12459.—Lapagerla alba in cool house.— When
pay ing a visit to a friend in the north of Ireland, I noticed
a tine plant of Lapagcria alba with thirteen blooms, all
full blown, about 2$ inches long, like solid ivory at a
distance. I would like to have one of them in my green¬
house, but I do not know whether it would grow and
flower in a cool house, as I have no beat except sufficient
to keep out tho (rest. I would like to know the naturo of
soil that 6uita beat —Ivka.

POULTRY.

Guinea fowls. —“F. F.”—Wesee no reason
why you could not keep a few of these most
useful domestic birds with your other poultry,
particularly as you have the run of the large
Grass field. But you must be prepared for some
extraordinary conduct on their part, as they
still retain many of their half-wild habits
through long years of comparative domestica¬
tion. They will not bear much constraint, and
will roost in trees or on the top of a shed or barn,
as their inclination dictates. Likewise they
never, or very seldom indeed, can be induced
to lay iu the proper quarter, but steal their
nests in some hedge or brake. The best plan is
to let them alone—they are well able to take
care of themselves if properly fed, and by care¬
ful watching their nests will soon be dis¬
covered. Do not disturb them while laying or
hatching, or they will quickly forsake the
nest for a fresh one. Where the eggs are
required for the table, it is best to allow the hen
to lay as many as she will, and then break up
the nest, as if they be taken away daily, the
same as those of other hens, she will most likely
cease to lay in that nest, and you will be put to
tho trouble of tracking her to another. The
flesh of the Guinea Fowl when one or two years
old is very choice, being dark in colour, and of
a decided gamey flavour. Old birds, however,
are very tough indeed. A twelvemonth old
cock, if properly fed on good grain, makes a
splendid bird for the table. As they are very
difficult to catch many people shoot them when
w anted for eating purposes. Their eggs, though

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Dec. 27, 1884.

small, are very rich, much more so than of the run and also the soil and drainage, as
ordinary fowls’ eggs. It is a very good plan to although the adult birds may be healthy and
set about twenty of the eggs under a common lay well, yet if the situation be exposed or the
hen early in the spring, as the Guinea hen run cold and damp it is sure to have a marked
seldom sits until the season is well advanced, effect on the number of fertile eggs.— Anda-
which is a disadvantage. Feed tho chickens lustan.

well on the best of meal with milk and a little Boiled grain for fattening fowls.—
meat.—A ndalusian. French poultry keepers, whose chief business is

—rr , „ „ ., , raising fat stock for the market, often use

water for poultry—Kirthenwarevessels k J[ in {or fattening . They boil the grain
are almoet certain to buret m froaty weather, jn wate B UQta it becomes so soft a, to l>« easily
so that they had better be emptied and pat bruiged the g and ha8 iwoUen go

away. Metal ones only will etand severe frost. that the flour by splitting the membrane snr-
For small runs, a good winter water vessel is roundi it give i t i bursted appearance. If a
made from a round tin m which American ox- Bufficien <J (|Ua b D tity of dry meal of some kind be
tongues have been cased. If this be soldered weU knea <led up with the grains until it becomes
to a square sheet of tin to form a bottom, or a d and b mean3 8ticky n0 better

foot, it is impossible for the birds to turn it over, food J can be given. Fowls prefer cooked food to
especially if the square of tin project two or d ; a B d consequently they fatten faster
three Inches on each Mde. Of course, the water B ut for laying etock and breeding pens

will freeze, but the ice can easily be broken up we gt , condemn it as being too fattening,
and fresh water poured in every morning. It is Qf course many are deluded by the great gain
seldom now that we get a severe frost night and made iQ the b ' lk 0 f the grain when lulled, but
day, but where large numbers of birds are kept itg nutritive value ig not increased one fraction,
it would entail great labour to be constantly So t tho bulk increased that four pints of
changing the water if such a state of weather Qa & boiled will fill the same measure seven
should occur The best plan is to dig a hole in tj and four [ntg of Bar)ey bo iled will fill ft
the run and fill it with fresh stable manure m . t Uu time3 / 0{ Bao kwheat boiled a pint
which plunge the water utensil. To prevent the J' welu to fourteen int3 of Maize boiled, a pint
fowls scratching in the manure, which would 8wella to fift3en pi £ ta . 0 f Wheat boiled, a pint
quickly upset all the arrangements and foul the 3wellg to ten ^ and of R a int 3wel uto
water some planks or pieces of board must be fifteen intg Altho „g h the8e proportions may
placed on the top of the manure. The latter 8eem la F Rice increases in bulk more than
must be renewed from time to time, as the heat o{ t 6 he graing above ment i 0 ned. A now

departs from it. We always prefer open vessels vi ^ u0 claim B d for Rice when used in fat-
as drinking supplies m preference to any of the tcn - congUt8 ; n it „ maki the flegh whiter .
patent^ fountains. The former are so easily Buc kwheat is much used in Ffance for fattening,
cleaned and filled, while the letter take so long and R we t ako the splendid specimens which
in both operations. Too much stress cannot be are ao ofteQ Kea in r Frenoh m ar kets as any
given to the importance of daily renewing the criterion> thi8 most be a very valuable one

Wa ^ r .V G i Ve J th !u b0t ^ m an l slJ ? a w,pe round to poultry raisirs. It is a pity it is not more
with the hand then throw the old water away 7 ral ^ thig country, which of course would
and fill up afresh. It is best, if possible, to B end to , ower the ^ Wo 8uppo8e it ig
have tho water-pan under cover, as it prevents either because the climate is not suitable for its
much dirt from falling into it snch as leaves produo tion, or that the limited demands would
from trees. It is well at this time of year to £ ot Dav {or itg cultivation— Andalusian.

add a little iron tonic to the drinking water
two or three times a week. A good tonic is

not pay for its cultivation.
Cross-bred fowls. -

-Andalusian.

What is the best

made as follows :-Dissolve 1 lb. of sulphate of cro88 > toting into consideration laying qualities
iron in a pint or so of diluted sulphuric acid. an< * as a table fowl. [There are

Mix this with a gallon of fresh spring water,
and keep in a well-corked jar. Add a table-

many crosses which combine the two qualities
desired. The most popular, and, we think, the

and keep in a well-corked jar. Add a table- , “ . ’ .

spoonful to the water for every six fowls— be8t -„ ,8 t * h ® Brahma-Dorklng. They make
Awiurirsriv excellent table fowls, having much of the size

aitdalusian. of the Brahma, with the tine flesh and good

Vitality of stock. —A question so often proportions, such as prominent breast and short
asked by beginners is, " How many hens must i egj BO much admired in the Dorking for table
I allow to each male bird ?” The answer U8e . The Brahma is a good layer, and the
depends very much on the age of the birds, the Dorking not au indifferent one, so that the
season of the year during which hatching opera- re8 ults of the cross generally can be depended
tions are carried on, the particular kind of fowl upon this respect. There are, however, many
kept, and last, but not least, the size of the crosses which would produce better layers, but
run. Although it does not necessarily follow not 8Uc h g ae table birds. Among these may be
that because a cock is old he is not at the same mentioned the Houdan - Brahma, Spanish-
time vigorous and quite as much to bo do- Brahma, and Hamburgh-Brahma. The first-
pended on as a younger bird, yet generally speak- mentioned breed in all these are recognised
ing a bird which has passed his second season tirst-rate layers, and by mating them with
should not be allowed so many birds as a fc h 0 Brahma, or even with the Dorking, if
younger one. If chicken are desired very early, very large, a good combination of laying
say January or February, we should not allow an( j table fowls is produced. It is best
more than three hens to one cock with breeds to let the hens be Brahmas and the male
such as the Brahma, Cochin, or Plymouth Rock, birds Houdans, Spanish, or Hamburghs, as the
which we consider the best breeds for early case may be. We have seen some capital all¬
hatching. Some breeders only allow two hens round birds produced by running a Malay cock
to one cock. With more active breeds, four or with Houdan hens. The chickens were excel-
five to one is the right proportion. Of course, i en t when brought to table, and we should
as the spring advances the numbers may be imagine good layers. When purchasing stock,
doubled. In all cases, and at all times, heavy 8 j ze be the chief consideration, with pro-
breeds such as the Brahma arc not so prolific as minent breasts and short legs. Fancy points
the more sprightly kinds such as the Hamburgh can be totally dispensed with, as long as the
or Leghorn. It is surprising to anyone who birds are known to come from a pure strain,
has never kept poultry both in confinement and About the middle of February is as good a
with unlimited range, to note the difference in time as any to commence hatching. If Brahma-
the number of fertile eggs in each case. There Dorkiogs be selected, procure four or five large
iB no doubt but what limited space decreases dark Brahma hens as free from leg feather as
the vitality of the Btock greatly, while large un- possible. Early 1884 hatched pullets would be
limited runs have just the contrary effect. One best. With these run a coloured Dorking two-
has only to visit a farmyard, where perhaps year-old cock, as large as can be procured. Let
there are only two or three cocks to thirty or him be square in build, with short broad back,
forty hens ; yet the farmer will tell you that short legs, and good upright carriage. Many
nine out of every ten eggs will hatch under people use light Brahma hens, but although
favourable circumstances. Therefore, where they look nice on a meadow or orchard, wo ao
only a small run can be devoted to breeding no t consider them either so hardy or prolific as
stock, it is absolutely necessary that only a few where dark Brahmas are used.— Andalusian.]
hens be allowed to each cock, with frequent in- Cro8s between Spanish cock and Dorking,
trod action of fresh blood, as too much in- —I have a hlaok Spanish cock. Would a crow between
breeding is sure to bring about deterioration of him and a Dorking hen make good table bird* and layers,
strain in limited spaces. Anpther item mofet or wouM the crow Utween^BrahmM (white) be better ?

. , . • Xi 1 1 wish tip rear eonic hend that will lay early and through

important to tucce^furh^chin^ jhimposition [the winter.-M rs. L. *

AQUARIA.

Plants for aquarium — “G. B." can obtain plants
of Vallisneria spiralis and water spiders of T. J. Avann,
49, West Derry Road, Liverpool.

Ice in an aquarium Queror ” should break the
ioe in his aquarium an l remove the i icces as fast as tfsov
are formed, while thin. If thia is neglected tho water will
congeal into a solid mass of ice, and in the process of thaw¬
ing iho aquarium will buist unless a strong one. If gas is
in tho apartment it is well to keep it lighted from night
till morning to redUco the liability of sudden danger from
frost when the weather is severe.—F. JI. K.

HOUSEHOLD.

Bath oake. —One pound flour, two table¬
spoonfuls baking powder, four handfuls of
currants, eight ounces clarified beef dripping, a

Sinch of salt, a little cinnamon, a little milk.

iix the dry ingredients together, first washing
the currants in warm water and drying them
before the fire, and rubbing the dripping into
the flour. Then make into a light paste with
the milk or buttermilk. Roll out to the thick¬
ness of half an inch, and bake in a quick oven.
When done, cut into squares and pile on a plate.
An excellent cake for children*

Mine© pies without meat.— One-and-a-
half pounds whole rice, two pounds apples, two
pounds currants, quarter pound candied lemon
peel, two pounds sugar, one pound suet, ground
cinnamon and cloves to taste, half pound
raisins. Put the rice into a saucepan, with
water to cover it, and let it boil until quite
tender, which may be ascertained by rubbing a
grain between the finger and thumb. If done,
it will rub into a paste. Pare, core, and chop
the apples as small as the grains of rice. Wash
the currants in warm water and pick them over.
Stone and cut the raisins (which should be
Muscatel) into halves. Free the suet from all
skin and gristle, and chop it very fine. Then
mix all the ingredients well together. Line patty¬
pans with a rich pud-paste, fill them with the
mixture, cover with paste and bake. If the
mixture be not required for immediate use,
put it into small jars and tie down with
bladder; in this way it will keep good for a
long time.

Gardening on the Grass.— Some months
ago I came upon an old border in an out of-the-
way part of the country, where gardening on
the Grass, in the sense in which I am now con¬
sidering it, had been practised for many years
—judging, at least, from the size of the clumps
of Fuchsias, old pink china Roses, and other
plants of a somewhat similar character, which
were filling independent positions on the Grass
in nooks and corners, and the salient points in
front of the groups of shrubs. In this style of
lawn decoration there is scope for the display
of much taste in pictnresque grouping ; and ih
the breaking up of straight or formal lines
opportunities will be found for the introduction
in patches in the turf of choice hardy plants
that do not make the display they should when
buried in the mixed border. The usual dividing
lines between the Grass and the shrubs should be
done away with, as the turf will cover up all the
bare earth on the margin of the shrubbery, running
back into the recesses and glades, and envelop
ing the stems and obliterating all nakedness.
When all this has been done informal decora¬
tion on the Grass comes in naturally to fill in
the picture, and create a picturesque and har¬
monious whole. The Daffodil, the Crown Im¬
perial, and some of the hardy species of Tulips
and Lilies, fit in naturally ; and irregular patches
of Hardy Heaths, Yuccas, trees, Ivies, tree and
herbaceous Paeonies, and many other choice
things of a permanent character, may be em¬
ployed for creating special features ; in fact,
one of the chief advantages of this style of
planting will be found in giving prominence to
plants whose beauty is lost when crowded in
beds or borders. The isolation of plants on
Grass should not prevent the grouping together
in large patches of suoh things as Winter
Aconites, Snowdrops, Wood Anemones, Wild
Thyme, Primroses, 4c., positions for which may
be found or created preferably on elevated sites.
Ferns and aquatics may, with a little ingenuity,
find a suitable home under this atyle "of

I.giJrcijfempgSH-Hlr Oh ILLINOIS Af

URBANA-CHAMPAiGN

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED.

Vol. VI.

JANUARY 3, 1885.

No. 30 k

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

BRODIH3AS.

The variety in height, shape, and colour of
hardy outdoor bulbB now in cultivation may be
said to be endless. In Liliums, Fritillarias,
Tulips, and other Liliaceous plants a surprising
degree of perfection has been attained, especially
in the case of Lilies. Brodiseas, which follow
closeupon the heels of the genera just mentioned,
are also well worth the attention of cultivators.
They adapt themselves to the ordinary circum¬
stances of mixed borders with wonderful readi¬
ness, and their presence in bold masses during
the spring months is most welcome. Most of
them increase yearly by means of offsets in
favourable situations, and if they do not do so
it is a sign that the position is not to their
liking. Plant them at first in well-prepared
light rich soil, so as to give them
a fair start and get them pro¬
perly established. Mr. Baker,
of Kew, has placed four species
generally found under the name
of Brodiiea in the genus Milla.

They are M. ixioides, M. capi-
tata, M. laxa, and M. gracilis,
leaving only the undermentioned
Brodiaeas, viz, :—

B. congesta, of which there is
also a charming white variety,
a scarce and very desirable
plant; both are perfectly hardy
and establish themselves readily
without any extra care being
bestowed upon them, and as
they increase much more rapidly
than the others, a very few
years elapse ere a largo patch is
produced. B. congesta is also a
most useful bulb for filling up
low recesses in rockeries, which
may be covered with such creep- A

ingplants in summer as Veronica
repens, &c., without in the least
affecting the bulbs. It has nar-
row, slightly glaucous, ribbed
leaves and flower-stalks from LA B&fi

1 foot to 3 feet or 4 feet long, on
which the flowers are produced
in umbels; they arc about an AM ^

inch long, somewhat funnel-
shaped, of a bright purplish-blue
colour, and are produced from
May to July. It is a native of
California, Colombia, &c.

B. multiflora, also called
parviflora, is somewhat like the
above in general appearance, but
differs widely structurally. It
has more flowers in a head and
also longer foliage. In habit
and position generally it may be Crimeoi

referred to B. congesta. The
leaves, which are few, are from
1 foot to 2 feet long and bright green, and the
flower-stalks are shorter than the leaves. The
blossoms, which aro produced in sub-globose
heads, are bright blue in colour, the divisions
being much shorter than the tube and spread¬
ing, and lying nearly flat when open. It is a
native of California, and flowers early in May.

B. volubilis. —This is a curious and most in¬
teresting hardy bulb. Being of a climbing
habit, it ordinarily reaches a height of from
4 feet to 10 feet or 12 feet, its scape or flower-
stalk twisting in the most peculiar manner
round everything that comes in its way. It is
said by collectors to reach in this way enormous
heights on trees before the flowers expand. It
requires a rich light soil, and should always be
planted near a bush, or stakes on which it is to
climb must be supplied, otherwise it will
dwindle and produce few flowers, and those
badly coloured. The leaves are about a foot
long, narrow, keeled at the.hqck, and ribbed on
the upper surface. The flower-stalk whijeh is
green or pink, is very bri^Ul wuofe the;** 1 ™*
are produced iu umbels of from tttefre to

twenty. They are bright rose-coloured and Gooseberries, and Currants, where in full flower,
very handsome. It is a native of California, were nipped ; but the following flowers escaped
and flowers in July. without any perceptible injury, except a few that

B. coccinea is the brightest and handsomest had been fully open for some time, and which
of all the Brodireas. It is also a very distinct were slightly touched only, all fresh flowers
kind and a sure and free flowerer. It is not and bods escaping :—Tulips, Auriculas, double
quite so hardy as the other species, but in dry, Daisies, Arabis, Hyacinths (flowers from old
well-drained borders it holds its own in a fairly forced bulbs now flowering the third year),
creditable way, especially where deep planting Scilla Bibirica, Saxifraga Wallacei, Grape
is resorted to. It is a most useful bulb for pot Hyacinth, Primroses (all the common, fine-
culture, and as it is much showier than many of coloured, and double kinds), Daffodils (Emperor,
out indoor spring bulbs, it will doubtless prove Empress, Horsfieldi, Poeticus nanus, Maximus,
an acquisition for that purpose. As a cut Biflorus, Princeps, and others), Forget-me-not,
flower it is charming, so handsomely do the and Wallflowers. These were the only things
flowers hang over the edge of the glass in which in bloom in our late district at the time. The
they are placed. The leaves are about 2 feet flowering Currants were cut off where the flowers
long, narrow, and bright green. The flower- were open, but those at the endof the racemes
stalk is about the same height, and bears an have expanded since. All early Rhododendron
umbel of from ten to twenty drooping tubular flowers were cut off, and almost always are, so
flowers, each about 2 in. long ; their lower half that we rarely have early varieties in perfection.

It would appear, therefore,
that many of our popular early
alpine and other flowers are frost-

much depends cu-cumstancea

when grown

stones up on a

mound of soil put down to raise
the heap, and in the interstices

tfS oAk iJ pushing roots like Carrots down
Jr 0 between the stones into the

I autumn the. plants were 3 feet

1 of slight frost early in February

11 and shallower soil, and not a foot

^3 * * HW high, having been transplanted,

HI circumstance is quite easily ex-

i reason gardeners lift their ma-

v tured plants of Broccoli in

i Satin Flower (Brodiaia coccinca). Flowers crimson (natural size). October and replant it again, in

order to harden it and make it
stand the winter. Herbaceous

is bright scarlet abruptly tipped with yellow, plants growing in borders cannot always be
and the recurved lobes are green. It is a native controlled in that manner, but plants on
of San Francisco, and flowers in May and Juue. rockeries may, and the certain way of making
B. gran biflora is a handsome and useful them frost-proof is to grow them in shallow
species, of which there are two or three places where the roots cannot go too deep
varieties, notably minor and major. It requires down and produce an over-luxuriant growth
to be plautcd in quantity in order to render the that cannot resist sharp frosts. The common

large umbels of delicate blue flowers effective. Echeveria secunda glauca, so much used for

_ carpet bedding and cdgiDgs in the London parks,

nnm\Tn mrTrna affords an excellent example of this kind. The
THE HARDIEST SPRING FLOWERS. plant is only half-hardy, and usually needs pro-
Those flowers that withstand frost are undoubt- tection from damp as well as frost; but we once
edly the best to plant the most of in the spring saw it in a London nursery growing on some
garden, because we are never sure of escaping stones where it had stood during the winter
late frosts till April, at least, is out. The and several very hard frosts, while with us on
present opportunity is a good one to take note a border every plant had been killed. It is not
of those plants that withstand sharp frost, a rich soil that does the mischief so much as a
because many plants have been in full flower, deep soil into which the roots penetrate, causing
as well as in greater perfection than usual, this a rank growth of flabby texture. Many a plant
spring. During the cold period that occurred noticed to be in this condition on a border or
at the end of last April we had, on three sue- rockery might be saved by being simply lifted
cessive nights, 6 degs., 7 degs., and 9 degs. of up out of the soil, and replanted again in Sep-
frobt, which is invariably most destructive when tember after growth was completed. This does
growth has been made early. Pears, Cherries, no harm to tho p!«nt whatever ; it only breaks

Digitized by

Gck igle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

suffered. They were the handsomest lot of
plants I have ever seen, all having short,
straight stems, with splendid round heads, which
varied, according to the sort, from 2 to 4 feet
diameter. They remained in bloom about two
months. —A. T.

Crown Anemone culture.— Treated as
an annual, the single and double forms of A.
coronaria arc splendid for autumn, winter, and
spring bloom, especially on warm soils in mild
climates near the sea. Cut them in the early
bud stage, they expand beautifully in water,
and remain fresh and fair for a fortnight, or
even for three weeks, if the stems be cut and
fresh water added from time to time. The one
great point in the culture of these brilliant
Crown Anemones is so important that one must
kalicise it. Let the seed, be of the best quality;
if g>ssible, select it yourself from named kinds.

Crisped. Hart’s-tongue Fern.— Of the
many forms of Hart s-tongue, this, which is
named Scolopendrium vulgare crispum, is one of
the most ornamental, as well as one of the most
satisfactory to grow. When thoroughly estab¬
lished and doing well it forms a bush of foliage
a yard through, and then presents a very
distinct and pleasing appearance. Some varieties
of the Hart’s-tongue are really more curious than
beautiful, but crispum merits culture by its
beauty alone, and as it grows freely in any free
soil, it is a plant for every garden. Good loam
suits it best, and the soil bhould be elevated a
foot or so above the garden level, otherwise no
special preparation is needed. But, like the
common form, it will grow in ordinary garden
soil, if not too heavy, adding some leaf-soil or
any decomposed garden refuse with a little
thoroughly rotted manure. I find that the
stronger growing hardy Ferns like good food, and
that they enjoy when in full growth moderate
applications of liquid manure as well as annual
top-dressings of rotten manure.—T.

Seneoio pulcher.—Until quite lately this
plant has been beautiful out-of-doors. No wind
seems to injure it, and a deluge of rain it posi¬
tively enjoys. Its magenta-tinted flower, and
the bright coloured Anemomes do not disgrace
even the fairest of hothouse flowers with which
they may be associated. We keep up a good

with lilac, white eye, and grand branching
spike 3 feet in length ; Psyche, fine bright blue,
with metallic tinge, white eye, good shape, fine
spike ; Royal Standard, bright blue, fine white
centre, massive spike ; Venus, a semi-double
variety, with purple flowers, having dark blue
tips, flue compact spike, distinct and extra fine ;
and West Coates, rosy-lilac, with azure-blue
edges, semi-double, very fine compact spike.
Time was when the Delphinium was a popular
flower; and if it could not, strictly speaking,
be placed among florists’ flowers, there were not
a few growers who made a pet of it, and special
classes were found for spikes in horticultural
exhibitions. They always made a fine and
attractive display. It w’ould be well if somo
encouragement of this kind could be given to
this truly magnificent hardy plant. It rarely
happens that w'e have an opportunity of seeing
Delphiniums at our London shows.—R. D.

general prize now given for “six hardy her¬
baceous.” One reason of this obsolete form
being so long retained, maybe, is, that the com¬
mittee who fix the schedule are usually gar¬
deners, more anxious about greenhouse plants
than about our “ grand old borderers,” of whose
existence the youDg generation of ihe trade arc
grossly ignorant, and only occasionally is a gar¬
dener seen to compete with herbaceous plants.
Gentlemen have gone “ from China to Peru ”
after rareBtove plants, and this has necessitated
“ glass ” gardeners simply, and now when the
fashion has turned Bomewhat, the masters
would wonder why their servants cannot pro¬
duce an old-fashioned border in a season.
If “ Fides ” will send me his address I shall be
happy to know one so near me with a herba¬
ceous taste. His experience of the Gaillardia
astonishes me greatly, while it goes to prove
the contradictions which we all meet with in
some flowers already adverted to above. His
experience of Coreopsis lanceolata, again, is
different from that of an experienced fiiend in
the Vale of Leven, who finds it quite hardy.
The “nice blue Salvia ” he refers to I would
like to see, as patens is the only beauty I know,
and it is not hardy. His note about Senecio

Imlcher is interesting, as helping us to a know-
edge of this fine plant in Scotland. In a spring
number of Gardening, a gentleman, writing
from Gloucestershire, made us rejoice, because
he found this flower truly herbaceous, and
if he would be so good as to give us this year’s
experience, it would assist us, perhaps, to keep
up our hearts still. In 1S83 a lady friend had
it in bloom, and this year the plant has just lived
in a few slender leaves. In spring I got a plant
from a friend in Stirlingshire, ana another,
very Btrong, from the Rev. C. Wolley Dod,
and I wintered one from November, 1883, in a
pot in cold frame, which I bought from Messrs.
Smith, of Worcester. The first has done well,
the second flowered strongly, and the last is
still in a large pot, never having flowered, but
3eems very healthy, and is sending up a new
crown. If “ Fides ” will refer to Mr. Dod’s re¬
marks in Gardening of 2(5th January, 1884, he
will see the directions given there for its
culture. As to bunching up herbaceous, like
annuals, at flower shows, I may say that one
cannot judge whether many varieties are well
or ill-grown unless single spikes are exhibited.
For this reason it is sometimes insisted upon,
and all bunching disallowed. As to the look
of it, that is a matter of taste, and where a
variety does not look artistic singly, then it is not
suitable for a show. Mr. Lindsay, at Alexandria,
N.B., who is a firBt-class grower, and has a fine
artistic perception of beauty in herbaceous
flowers, differs in opinion, and has carried off the
prize at Glasgow by adhering to his own taste,
but in details we can agree to differ, and
we mry get a rule absolute by-and-bye.
There are limits to both methods of exhibition,
as in the Phlox and Lilinm classes. Extend
the prize list for each class and general ruleB
are easy, where by the present contraction of
one stand for all varieties, and not strictly
hardy grown ones adhered to, endless bicker¬
ings result, and particular judges would
award the red card where another judge’s
whim would withhold it. At present it might
be well to allow any fashion of dressing a stand
to compete, so as to see which is best; and the
moment any method is selected for the prize
it will be followed as ardently as the “ Masher”
follows the last style of glove or cut of coat he
may hear is “all the rage” in London or Paris.
To succeed one must conform more or less to
do so, only to succeed is evidence of a want of
character which “ Mashers” or “ Girls of the
Period” may exhibit, but which any amateur I
have the pleasure of knowing would relegate to
Coventry or Banff, places apart geographi¬
cally, but proverbially contiguous.—A. Sweet,
Cathcart.

12336. — Agapanthus j In winter. — I
have wintered the Agapanthus nmbellatus out
of-doorE, and in the south it may be done toler¬
ably safely, but the orowns should be well pro¬
tected with CocxrA-uut fibrs in winter. They

nice little plants for the borders next May or
June.— B.

Gladiolus Oolvillei albus.— Bulbs of
this beautiful white variety we planted here and
there last autumn in various situations and
aspects, and in both peat and loam, but always
quite near to the foot of a wall, which seems best
to secure that degree of shelter and dryness of
soil which is necessary to its well-being as a
perennial inhabitant of our garden. We plant
by making holes with a dibber or crowbar,
dropping in sand around the bulbs. When
planted out on the open borders it does not do
so well, dying out altogether after a year or two ;
but planted close to a low, sunny wall, as above
directed, onr three-year-old clumps gave quite a

Bory’s Silver Crocus (Crocus Borj i). Flowers white
(natural size.)

wealth of pure white-blossomed spikes for the
flower vases in May and June last.—B.

Select Perennial Larkspurs.— The class
of perennial Larkspurs or Delphiniums fur¬
nishes us with some most attractive hues of
blue, and it is not to be wondered at that lovers
of hardy plants include Delphiniums in their
choice collections. The sorts to be named are :
—Cleopatra, dark blue with white centre,
throwing a fine branching spike 2£ feet in
length ; Diadem, azure-blue, with bronzy
shading, semi double, extra fine; D. P. Laird,
light azure-bine, white eye, slight metallic
tinge, extra fine ; Glenlyon, dark blue, black
centre, very fine spike ; Hector, beautiful azure-
blue, with white centre, producing a massive
branching spike feet in length ; Minerva,
delicate azure-blue, with grey centre, tinged
with lilac, semi-double; Petrarch, beautiful
light blue, with white fffep bronzy shalliiig,
splendid spike 3 feet ii lejpfcti, a wfe >i|pus
grower; Pink Hill, lighrttue/ fineljQ^atied

powdered anthers from the threatened shower.

A friend who went on Mount Hor with the
Palestine Exploration Expedition, tells us the
Croci there are quite marvellous in size and
colour. Some kinds he especially mentions as
being almost as large as ordinary tumbler
glasses and very lovely in vivid colouring. It
is pleasant to hear of natural species of Crocus
which rival the great seedling forms which the
Dutch florists send us year after year, but which
so soon deteriorate in our gardens. Big and
beautiful as are these Dutch kinds, it is pleasant
to know that there are some tiny species ex¬
quisitely beautiful, as is this dainty little plant
which we now illustrate.

Are Lilies herbaoeous ? — “ Fides ”
asks “Are L. auratum aud lancifolium, Ac., re¬
garded as herbaceous flowers at competitions ?”
Undoubtedly they are, but are more correctly
termed “ hardy bulbous ” flowers. Herbaceous

548

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 3, 1885.

increase very rapidly, and planted in a good
soil made of leaf-mould, decomposed manure,
and sand, and well watered (clear manure water
occasionally), will soon form very handsome
plants producing many ilowers. The finest
specimen I have seen was one growing in the
front garden of a cottage on the old road up the
Great Ormes Head, Llandudno, which I was
told had been out during tho winter.—J. P.,
Lancashire .

12356.— Dahlias in open ground.— In
a warm garden, and a well sheltered dry bed,
the tubers will most probably do well, especially
if tho winter is mild. The tubers should be well
protected with a covering of 4 to 6 inches
of stable manure to keep out frost. The diffi¬
culty will be to start the tubers in spring, un¬
less they are then taken up and placed in heat,
though they may be got into growth forced like
Rhubarb for the early market under pots and
hot manure.—J. P., Lancashire .

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 530 .)

Seakale.

I am afraid some of my readers may think I am
rather erratic in my movements, as I am not
taking up the different subjects in the usual
alphabetical, or, indeed, any kind of order or
Bystem. I am thinking only of their importance
to the consumer, and in the case of the plant
under consideration I am anxious to remove
some of the apathy and neglect under which it
labours. There are hundreds of people who
have never tasted Seakale, and do not know what
a delicious vegetable it is in the winter, when
things are snowed up, or when one languishes
under a daily dose of Cabbage or Brussels
Sprouts. It is a British plant, and grows wild
on the south-western coast, and ought certainly
to be found in every middle-class garden.

Preparing the Land.

There is no plant that will pay better for
thorough deep culture ; especially is this neces¬
sary when it is blanched on the land where it
grows, though I do not consider this is the best
system generally, yet there may be circum¬
stances which may render this course advisable,
and at the present time it is commonly done,
especially with late crops ; and in the latter case,
where no forcing is necessary, only some
covering to keep the light and air away, the
Bame objections could not bo urged. But where
roots can be grown strong enough to force in
one season it seems a folly to be burdened with
ermanent plantations. The best time to plant
eakale is in the spring, say about March, and
by that time the land should be in the best
possible condition. In yoars gone by it was a
common plan to save the roots which had been
forced in the Mushroom house or elsewhere, and
plant them out again for the summer, and lift
and force again in the autumn or winter ; and
the plants went through this process till in
course of time they became exhausted or died,
and as the strong plants developed several
crowns they were divided to increase stock.
If the land is deep and rich very good Seakale
can be grown in this way, but it is hardly
systematic enough to suit modern ideas.

Propagation.

Like Horseradish, there is no difficulty in its
propagation, for every bit of root will grow.
When the plants are lifted in autumn for
forcing, the long roots are shortened, and the
thongs cut away make excellent sets. The
usual way is to take up the whole stock of roots
intended for forcing, trim off the long roots,
and lay the plants in some sheltered border
thickly, where they can be removed for forcing
when required, no matter what the weather may
be. At the approach of frost some litter should
be placed over them. The small roots that
were taken off may be laid in a heap with some
sand strewn among them till spring, Bay about
the end of March or beginning of April, when
most of them will have developed buds which
should be cut into sets, 4 inches or so long, so
thatabud remains to grow into the future crown.
Plant with a dibble in rows 18 inohes apart,
and 15 inches between the sets. In planting,
leave the bud iuAon fcjeve iwfctlhitlie surface.
Cuttings without-ffciy visible?* ,bu&a may be

planted, and will be sure to grow, for Seakale
is a difficult thing to destroy in ordinary
culture. Tho only care needed in summer is to
keep down weeds by frequent surface stirring,
and pinch oft' all attempts at flowering by
nipping the buds as soon as they can be seen,
unless seed is required. Seakale can also
be raised from seeds, and grown large
enough, under good culture, in one year for
forcing. The seeds may be sown in boxes
under glass in March, and be planted out
when large enough, the same distances apart
as was given for root cuttings ; or the seeds
may be sown in drills 1 inch deep, dropping the
seeds in patches, three or four in a patch, the
latter to be 15 inches apart, to be singled out
afterwards leaving the strongest. Slugs, snails,
and other vermin are fond of young Seakale plants
when they first emerge from the Boil; and if
the time is difficult for young seedlings they
will require watching, or a good many will be
destroyed. Dusting with fresh lime and surface
stirring will be beneficial. It is very important
nothing be neglected that will conduce to rapid
growth if we wish to raise plants strong
enough to force in one season. If the weather
about June should be hot and dry, 2 inches or
3 inches of manure scattered between the rows
will give size and strength to the crowns and
ay for time and trouble. On porous soils a
ressing of salt at the same time will be a great
help, especially in districts far removed from
the sea. The dressing need not be a heavy one,
but half-a-pound to the square yard will not be
excessive if equally distributed.

Permanent Beds.

The old-fashioned way of growing Seakale
was to plant in beds, two rows of plants on
each bed, with 3 feet alleys between. The
rows, instead of being confined to single plants
in a direct line, would be in detached groups,
three plants in a group, the plants to occupy
about as much space as the pots will cover when
the plants are forced. The patches should be
about 18 inches apart, and when the blanching
pots are on the intervening spaces will be filled
with leaves. And even when the forcing is
done in pits and houses, there should always re¬
main a bed to be blanched without any forcing
or fermentation.

Blanching.

The blanching of Seakale can be done in
various ways, but the exclusion of light is a
sine quA non whatever plan is adopted. And
the materials employed should be sweet, and
not likely to impart a bad flavour to the Sea¬
kale. Tree leaves are as good as anything
when not much decayed, with some straw or
long litter placed over them to keep them from
blowing about. Old tan and ashes, or a mixture
of the two, will do very well laid in a ridge
15 inches deep over the crowns. Burnt clay or
earth is sometimes used where it is easily ob¬
tained, and answers the purpose admirably.

Forcing.

Its adaptability for forcing forms its most
valuable feature, as the green tops are not gene¬
rally used, although the young green sprouts in
spring may bo used as greens. As soon as the
leaves part readily from the crowns, towards
the end of November, forcing may begin, and
there is no plant which submits so readily
to varying conditions in the manner of
forcing, providing there is a temperature of
CO degs., in a perfectly dark place, and the
necessary amount of humidity in the atmo¬
sphere. Seakale may be forced anywhere.
1 know a garden where the flue from the boiler-
house is taken some distance under ground to a
more convenient place to get rid of the nuisance
arising from the smoke, aB it is in a district
where coals are cheap from the proximity to the
pits, and so coals alone are used for the boilers.
At the end nearest the house there is generally
a nice steady warmth, and in a bed over the
flue, Seakale, Rhubarb, and other things are
forced in great abundance and at a nominal cost.
Good Seakale can also be forced in the Mush¬
room-house—in fact, this is a very common way
of forcing it. The roots are taken up and
planted 2 inches apart in batches, as they are
required, about every ten days or so. Both the
soil in which the roots are planted, and also the
atmosphere, should be healthily moist, or the
Kale may be tough and lacking in flavour. If
grown under the influence of rank manure it
will acquire a bad flavour and be unfit for use.

It is rather remarkable how forced produce,
such as Seakale and Rhubarb, absorbs the 1
strong, rank m&nurial gases which are in the i
atmosphere, and retains the earthy taste even
after cooking, hence the necessity in forcing j
this plant in keeping everything in connection
therewith sweet and clean. Seakale may be
forced in pots under the stage of the green¬
house—half-a-dozen roots in a 10-inch pot,
with another 10-inch pot inverted over it. i
A group of half-a dozen pots covered with i
a double thickness of mats will furnish
several dishes, and as often as the produce ;
is cut, fresh roots may be planted. When the
shoot from the main crown has been cut, if
the roots are not required to plant again, they
may be left to run themselves out; other
shoots, smaller, but of pearly whiteness and of
excellent flavour will spring up, which may be
cut when about 6 inches loDg. There are several
modifications of this movable plan of forcing
Seakale. A large wine-case, such as the French
pack their champagne in for exportation to this
country, is an excellent contrivance for forcing
Seakale. The roots are packed in earth in the
bottom, the lid is placed on, and the box is
placed under the stage, or in some corner in a
warm house. Some people think that Seakale
is better flavoured when forced with fermenting
materials ; but when this is so, it arises through
lack of geniality in the atmosphere, and no
matter where the Seakale is forced this should
be supplied. But I grant, of course, that ex¬
cellent Seakale has been grown with fermenting
materials alone, chiefly leaves. I remember a good
many years ago, when I was gardening at a
large place in the North of Ireland, all our Sea¬
kale was forced in that way, the leaves were
carted on the ground, and the Seakale beds were
a sceneof immense litter and disorder. WhenSea-
kale is forced in this way it should, if possible, oc¬
cupy a position outside the garden and convenient
for bringing in the manure and leaves. Manure
alone will not do without a good deal of turning
and intermixing ; there should be at least an
equal part of leaves, or it will be better if two-
thirds of the bulk are leaves, especially if the
manure is fresh from the stable. When manure
is used without any admixture of leaves the
heat is too fiery at first, and when the first heat
has passed, which it does rapidly, there is no
means of resuscitation except by re making the
bed and adding fresh manure. But as forcing
with manure alone is usually so unsatisfactory
I do not recommend it; and it generally
imparts a bad flavour to the Kale. Seakale
may be forced with the aid of fermenting
materials, by those who like that plan best, in
an ordinary hotbed by lifting the roots now, and
planting in a frame placed on a bed of fermenting
materials, and matting up the lights to keep
them dark, or wooden shutters may be used
instead of glass ; or the roots may be lifted and
planted in a bed or heap of soil in the Melon
ground or on any convenient place, be sur¬
rounded with boards temporarily placed, havo
other boards placed on the top, have a good
thick lining of leaves and manure placed round
the sides, and a lesser thickness on the top.
There is, in short, no end to the combinations
which may be resorted to for the production of
forced Seakale, and the person who cannot
adopt one of the plans suggested, or modify
them to suit his own case, must be a dullard
indeed. There is no reason why Seakale
should not be plentiful in every middle class
garden in the kingdom, but the roots should be
grown in an open sunny situation, to ensure
well-grown and well-ripened crowns, and the
latteris quite as important a matter as the former. 1
When the leaves of fruit trees seem to cling
lingeringly to the trees we think it an evidence 1
of unripe wood, and we would rather see them 1
part easily and readily when the season’s work \
was done. So it is with Seakale or any other i
plant grown for forcing. When the leaves 3
ripens off all together, the roots will start i
quickly and the crowns spring up strongly
and in good time.

As Regards Diseases,

Seakale may be said to have none. Slugs and ^
their kindred will eat off the young plants in *
spring, but they yield to the usual modes of *
attack. The Turnip beetle and its kindred *
are sometimes troublesome when the seedling
plants first emerge from the soil, but dustings !
of fresh lime and surface stirring will quickly f
dislodge them. ] H A V E. Hobday. I

Jax. 3, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

FRINCIPX.ES OF GARDEN PRACTICE.

Amateur 9 will often seek advice from ex¬
perienced men, and as aoon as they have
obtained it go and do just the opposite—and
why ? Because with the advice they did not get
the reason.

As so much unsuccessful practice in garden¬
ing procesds from an ignorance of the physiology
of plants, and particularly of leaves, perhaps just
a word on the subject will not be out of place.
To the amateur beginner a knowledge of the
principles on which good practice is based is of
more concern than to the professional gardener
in his early career, for the latter is gradually
Initiated into the details of his profession, whilst
the former is often thrown on his own resources,
and when in a situation of dilliculty or uncer¬
tainty the knowledge of a principle might give
him the key to the information he needs.

The young practical gardener, as a rule, has
BO choice in the matter, he having to work
under control and supervision. There are
few people that know anything of gardening
who have not a pretty correct notion of the
oihee and of the wants of the root, but with
regard to the leaf there seems to be a wide¬
spread need of enlightenment.

Besides the function of the leaf as a respirating
organ, which part it can perform in the dark, it
has other important offices to perform for which
the action of light is indispensable. It is a
feeding, a digesting, and an assimilating organ,
extracting from the atmosphere material for
building up its tissue. The crude sap taken up
by the roots is transferred to the leaves, there
to be elaborated and made fit to administer to
the growth of the tissues.

The absolute necessity of the full agency of
%ht to enable the leaf to perform its proper
functions shows how necessary it is in green¬
house culture to keep the plants near the glass,
a point so often insisted upon, in these pages,
where & vigorous sturdy growth is an object of
importance. It also explains the fact that the
principal means that plants possess for destroy¬
ing their rivals in their struggle for existence is
depriving them of light by over-shadowing.

The gardener when pruning the Peach tree
shortens back to a leaf bud, knowing that, if he
pruned to a fruit bud, the fruit would not
mature from the cut point back to the next leaf
bud. This is because that it is the descending
sap alone that is fitted for the nutrition of any
part of the plant. There are several seeming
exceptions to the rules above propounded.

Seeds will germinate and come to the surface
of the soil in the dark. The larger the seed
tbe deeper can it be placed in the soil, as a rule
with a fair prospect of the seedling rcachiug the
surface.

Seakale, Asparagus, and Rhubarb can be
grown in the dark, though this can scarcely be
considered real growth, it being a transposition
of substance from one part of the plant to the
other, the leaves, or shoots, being developed at
the expense of the elaborated material stored
in the roots. Roots taken up and forced are
useless for planting, because the stock of
material that should givo them a vigorous start
Is exhausted. Rhubarb in the ground, that has
had a cask with the bottom out put over it, is
found to be weakened by the process. Many
do not strip any leaves from their Rhubarb after
the spring, so that the roots might regain
strength for the next spring's duty.

Careful cultivators wait till spring before
they apply salt to their Asparagus beds, because
besides the disadvantage of making the soil wet
and cold if put on earlier, aud also the dis¬
advantage of the salt losing its power of
destroying the weeds, it would be washed from
the soil by the winter’s rain before real growth
commenced. For like reasons many of our
best cultivators mulch their Asparagus in the
spring, when, besides the advantage of the roots
being enabled to take up the nutritive material
of the manure as soon as it is washed into the
soil, the mulching also checks evaporation.
Liquid manure, too, applied during hot dry
weather, while the stores of elaborated nutri¬
ment are being replaced in the roots for the
next spring’s crop of sticks, proves highly
beneficial.

There is another seeming exception to the law
In consideration. Many ^successful G rape-
growers stop the late rajs of .tbsiv at one
joint beyond the bunch^and Worn 0 eV<n a* the

bunch. Now, as so large a proportion of the
material of which the plant is built up is de¬
rived from the atmosphere through the leaves,
it would naturally be expected that the size and
quality of the bunch would be proportionally
atfected by the number of leaves by which it
was supported. But this appears not to be the
case, there being in the fruit a much larger pro¬
portion relatively to that contained in the rest
of tho structure of the elements, which the roots
only can supply. If the greatest development
of the vine as a whole, as is the case with a
timber tree, were the object aimed at, then any
destruction of leaves would he to abridge the
result, that is, supposing the tree had sufficient
root room. As the root room is limited in a
prepared border, auy growth of leaves unneces¬
sary to the full development of the fruit would
he only unduly to tax the roots, and might
cause shanking by driving the roots down into
uncongenial soil.

Where root room has been unrestricted, vines
have matured a double crop of Grapes with¬
out any apparent signs of the tree being over¬
taxed. L. C. K.

THE TOET’S NARCISSUS.

Till* is a very variable plant, one or other of
its varieties being in blossom from April until
June. In all, there arc fourteen or fifteen
varieties, single and double, but the best arc

Poet’s Narcissus (Narcissus pocticus). Flowers white.

N. poeticus ornatus, N. p. grandiflorus, N. p.

r ^etarum, N. p. recurvus, and N. p. patcllaris
pi. This Narcissus has been grown in quantity
in London market gardens for many years for
the sake of its sweet-scented white blossoms,
which are brought into Covent Garden Market
along with the dark crimson Wallflower in April
and May. It is one of the best and hardiest of
all the true Narcissi, and if once well planted
may be left undisturbed for years. In Ireland
this plant and the double-flowered form are
abundantly naturalised in many places, pre¬
sumably on the site of old dwellings. Its
flowers, if cut as soon as the petals open, endure
fresh for a week or ten days in fresh water
indoors ; indeed, all Narcissus blossoms endure
longer fresh and even attain a larger size if so
out and brought indoors, as the sun and east
winds are fatal to their beauty in the open air.

B.

FRUIT.

FRUITFUL FRUIT TREES.

Tub past season, although by no means remark¬
able for abundance of fruit, has afforded un¬
usual facilities for gaining such knowledge as
may enable us to overcome some of the draw¬
backs to hardy fruit culture. Never was the
promise of a fruitful year more universal than it
was last spring, and the bloom was by no means
unusually early in expanding ; in fact it was not
until the last week in April that there was any
need for protection. Pears, Plums, and Cherries
looked as if the trees would be laden with fruit.
But the wind set in direct from the east, bring¬
ing frosty nights, a dry parching atmosphere,
and hot days ; the result was that gradually the
embryo fruit dropped off, until at last, in some
cases, not a vestige of the rich promises of spring
was left, ex eept in the case of varieties that scarcely
ever fail, and it is to these that I now wish to
direct attention, for owners of gardens will un¬
doubtedly, in time, come round to the market
fruitgrowers’ point of view—viz., to rely chiefly
on sorts that they can grow, rather than on
such as they would like to grow. In this
locality I do not think the frost was, on any
occasion, severe enough to actually kill the
blossoms, for the most sheltered trees behaved
just the same as those that were most exposed.
My impression is that the nngenial change in
the weather gave the trees Buch a rude check
that the young fruit dropped off, not because it
was frost-bitten, but because the flow of sap
was checked ; the fruit was thus literally
starved, and dropped as a natural result.

Apples were with us the best crop of the year,
for the blossom was not expanded when the
cold weather set in ; consequently, their flower¬
ing was kept hack, and they generally set well.
Young trees in particular, only one and two
years planted, were laden with fruit, notably
Lord Suffield and all of the Keswick Codlin
type ; then there were the new and old Haw-
thorndens, Stone’s Apple, Small’s Admiral and
Cellini Pippin, and, amongst dessert Apples, the
Summer Golden Pippin, Cox’s Orange Pippin,
King of Pippins, Wyken Pippin, Red Quarren-
den, Irish Peach, and others.

Pears were hereabouts a thin crop; in fact,
with the exception of the Early Jargonelle,
Chaumontel, Beurre de Capiaumont, and a few
of the hardy stewing sorts, the crop was nil, and
that after the finest show of bloom I ever re¬
member. Pears certainly need protection as
much as what are termed tender fruits, if one
would have anything like regular crops of good
dessert kinds; the varieties that bear fruit in
such a season as the last are scarcely fit to class
with dessert Pears at all. Tho Lammas aud
Chisel Pears, that fruit freely on standards, were
but poorly furnished this year.

Plums, with few exceptions, were very thin ;
the exceptions with us were Victoria, which in all
kinds of soils and situations is the most reliable
of Plum to grow, and a first-rate culinary fruit;
when fully ripe, too, it is even acceptable for
dessert. Then there were Rivers’ Early Prolific,
New and Old Orleans, and Coe’s Golden Drop,
all carrying thin crops.

Cherries gave promise of great fertility, but
the only sort which really bore a full crop was the
Morello. This is one of the few reliable fruits
that ought to be grown far more largely than it
is ; on walls, of any aspect, it invariably crops
well, and for culinary purposes or preserving it
is the best of all Cherries. Dessert sorts were
thin, even on walls, the best being May Duke,
Black Eagle, Black Tartarian, Elton, and White
Heart.

Figs were an abundant crop, both on walls
and on open bushes, and even on standards;
the sorts mostly grown are the Brown Turkey,
White Marseilles, and a green Fig that produces
very heavy crops. On old castle walls on the
south coast tho Fig forms a very handsome and
useful tree, old specimens yielding grand crops,
though scarcely ever pruned or trained. Pro¬
bably the new kinds, like Negro Largo, Osborn’s
Prolific, and others, would prove deoided ac¬
quisitions if Fig culture received the attention
which it deserves.

Bush Fruits. —These were, as usual, much more
satisfactory than wall-trained or other fruit
trees, for they had nearly in all cases an ave¬
rage* and in irijany an abundant, crop. Fore¬
most amongst them were Gooseberries—a really

550

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 3, 1885,

I

heavy crop. We grow a few well-tried market
kinds, and by leaving the wood pretty thick
have not missed a crop for many years. I
find the following the best for general use,
viz., Lancashire Lad, Rifleman, Crown Bob,
Warrington, Bauk of England, Whitesmith,
Lancashire Lass, Greengage, Golden Drop
Currants, red, white, and black, are a fair
crop, but the last season was too dry for
the berries to be large. The best sorts are :—
Red, Raby Castle, YVarner’s Grape, and Mam¬
moth ; white, White Dutch; black, Black
Naples, Baldwin, and Lee’s Prolific. Rasp¬
berries suffered severely from the drought, but
we had a crop «f autumnal fruit. The best 1
find to be Fastolf, Carter’s Prolific, and Prince
of Wales.

Con Nuts, Filberts, and Walnuts were
generally a fair crop, as were also Mul¬
berries and Blackberries. Taken collectively,
the season was under the average; but with
a more rigid selection of sorts I think we might
greatly increase our fruit crops, even in the
worst of seasons, and if growers in widely
separated localities would give a brief list of
kinds that are fruitful the coming year, we might
arrive at a pretty correct conclusion as to what
may be termed fruitful fruit trees.

Ocsporl. J. G.

FIG TREE CULTURE IN POTS.

Many are fond of well-ripened Figs, but seldom
is sufficient accommodation provided for their
cultivation. Figs are easily grown, and, being
vigorous growers, a whole house should, if pos¬
sible, be set apart for them—one in which they
can be planted out in a restricted border. The
border ought not only to be restricted, but it
ought also to be made up of ordinary loam,
without any manure. In a rich border, which
would do well for Vines, Figs make far too
vigorous growth. What we require in Fig
trees is short-jointed wood, on which the fruit
is likely to set thickly, as it is easy enough to
feed the trees by surface dressings when it is
seen that they are not growing too vigorously.
The system of growing them in pots may be
practised in every garden where there are hot-
nouses.

Fig trees may be propagated more readily than
other fruit trees, either from single eyes or cut¬
tings. Use 3-inch pots, and insert a cutting or
au eye in the centre of each. Begin this work
early in the season—February is as good a time
as any. The pots should be plunged in a bottom-
heat of 85 degs. or 9.5 degs. If the cuttings are
inserted in moderately moist soil, they will re¬
quire no water until they have started into
growth. Roots are freely emitted in the moist
bottom heat, and if a temperature of 55 degs.
can be kept up, the young plants will grow at a
rapid rate. They should be repotted in G inch
pots as soon as they are well rooted. I have
found good turfy loam and pulverised bones
to be the beat soil in which to grow them.
As the season advances the temperature may be
increased, and, if the plants are w’ell managed,
fruitful trees in 12-inch pots can be produced in
eight months from the time of putting in the
cuttings.

Fig trees like a high temperature, and this is
necessary for rapid growth ; indeed, I have
obtained good fruit in the autumn from trees
struck from eyes the preceding spring. The trees
were grown in a Pine house ; the pots containing
the trees were placed over the hot-water pipes,
and they stood immediately over the evapora¬
ting troughs. It is a great advantage to be able
to place the trees over the hot-water pipes. If
there is no staying or trellis work over them,
two bricks may be laid over the pipes with a
spice between them, and the pots should be set
on the bricks. In this position they require a
goodly supply of water ; indeed, it may be said
that careful attention to this is of the very
greatest importance in the culture of all fruit
trees in pots.

Some, after reading the remarks which have
just been made, may be inclined to say—“How
can the Fig be adapted to our means when it
requires all this forcing high temperature togrow
it? The Fig tree likes a high temperature—it
luxuriates in it, but it ia unnecessary. It can be
grown well in a house where there is no artificial
heat, but it will nqjt-gfow so fast there, nor yield
two crops in a see son, . Im a beajen bouse Figs

I may be started into growth on the latof January,
whereas in a house not heated they will
not start for three months later; when they
do start, if the house can be shut up early in
the afternoon they will grow with great vigour,
and ripen their fruit in September. When the
trees have grown to a good bearing size they
should be repotted once a year, late in autumn.
On turning the trees out of their pots it will be
found that they have made quite a hard ball of
roots, from amongst which the drainage should
be picked out, and the trees should be repotted
in pots 2 inches or 3 inches wider, packing the
potting material firmly round the old ball of
roots. Let us suppose that the tree is almost
as large as it is wanted, and that it is
desirable to repot it in the same sized pot in
which it had been previously growing; in
that case, the ball of roots must be reduced
to the extent of an inch or an inch and a-half
all round. The tree will not suffer in any appre¬
ciable degree from this vigorous disturbance
of the roots, but will establish itself during the
winter, and bear fruit freely the following
season. Some growers would be afraid to
treat their trees in this way annually, and
would be content to administer some stimulant
in the way of surface-dressing. I greatly prefer
repotting to placing any material on the sur¬
face. The top portion, in the early part of the
season, contains no active roots, and it becomes
saturated with moisture, while the roots under¬
neath are perhaps sulTering through want of it.
I may add that, if it is intended to force the
trees very early, some degree of caution is
necessary. If the temperature is raised too
high, many of the autumn-formed fruits will
drop off. This is avoided by starting with a
low temperature, say 45 degs. at night, and
increasing it as the trees show signs of growth.
Varieties well adapted for pot culture are the
White Marseilles, Bourjasotte Gris, Grosse
Verte, Early Violet, and Brown Turkey.

J. D.

RASPBERRY CULTURE.

The culture of hardy fruits is now the subject
of most interest to market growers and others,
and two of the most profitable to grow, it is
found, are the Raspberry and Currant, as they,
to a large extent, go together. The extent to
which the Raspberry has been planted during the
past few years is only equalled by that of the
Strawberry, and we hear of many growers in
different parts of the country going in for plant¬
ing on a moatextensive scale. It is a fact worthy
of notice that all the Strawberries, Raspberries,
and Currants that can be grown can be sold at
remunerative prices. Provided the fruit is of
fair quality, it can all be disposed of readily.

The popularity of the Raspberry is due to the
numerous domestic uses to which it can be put.
It is indispensable in the kitchen and confec¬
tionery for many purposes ; from it is made a
vinegar, a useful and palatable syrup, creams,
and Raspberry wine. It gives flavour and quality
to several preserves, and is invaluable for tarts
and jams. Large quantities of the fruit are used
in summer as fast as the fruit is gathered for
daily consumption in restaurants, and the re¬
mainder ia made into preserves. Contrary to a
common opinion, too, the Raspberry is whole¬
some and refreshing, as good as the Strawberry
in that respect, if not the more wholesome of the
two. It is peculiarly a British fruit, and grows
and fruits most abundantly in the cooler and
northern parts of these islands.

The cultivated varieties of the Raspberry are
only improved forms of the wild kind, which,
when grown in good soil and under favourable
conditions, is as prolific and good as any others,
the berries increasing in size according to the
vigour of the cane. In a wild state, Raspberry
canes seldom exceed 4 feet or 5 feet in height,
but after having been grown a few years in good
soil they run up to 9 feet or 10 feet, and
the foliage and fruit are proportionately fine.
The Raspberry is not a plant that bears frequent
transplanting. It takes two or three years to
establish a plantation, and the strength of the
canes and abundance of the crops depend on
after culture.

October and November are the months to
plant in, and good Btrong suckers from the per¬
manent plantations should bo selected for the
purpose. If these are planted in good soil, and
out over close to the ground in spring, when the

young shoots begin to push from the base, the ,
latter will make good growth the same season, _
and bear the following year ; but many make ^
the mistake of not cutting newly planted canes j
down, and the consequence is that, while these f
canes bear no fruit, they rob the young ones,
which do not grow so strongly as they would *
otherwise have done. Any ordinary good soil 1
will suit the Raspberry, provided it is not too ■
dry ; it loves moisture. The roots keep close to '
the surface, but a deep loose soil answers best,
because it is generally moist as well. Trenching *
of the soil is advisable, and plenty of good cow
manure, bones, and ashes should be added. In 1
general culture, therefore, care should be taken *
not to dig or stir the ground in any way to in- *
jure the roots. The best plan is to hoe or weed
the surface, and mulch thickly with manure a
during the summer ; or, if manure be wanting, a
short Grass will answer, or rotten leaves, neither *
of which will enrich the soil much, but they will
keep it moist, and encourage the roots to grow 1
and feed. It is the want of mulching that kills
the roots of Raspberries, prevents the canea
growing, and ths fruit from swelling to its
proper size.

Another important point of culture is to give
the canes room. Crowed plantations never bear
well, because the lower buds on the cancs aro
blind, whereas when the canes have light and I
room from top to bottom they are prolific at
every joint, and one cane will produce a large
quautity of fine fruit. The proper distance for
the rowB is 8 feet or 9 feet, as the canes, under 1
good culture, will attain that height. If these
are regularly and thinly trained in the row, they
may grow a foot apart; but if stools of ten or a
dozen canes are grown, these should be as far
apart in the rows as the rows are, if the canes
are not tied to stakes ; if they are, then less
room will do. But staking is expensive in largo
plantations, and we recommend the canes to be
allowed to grow naturally without stakes. In
this way each stool will produce a group of canes
that will spread outwards and find room for
themselves, and bear as well as if they had been
most carefully staked, if not better. J. S.

The Red Currant.— Red Currants form a
large portion of the jam and jelly that is called
“ Raspberry,” because the latter fruit is used
to flavour it. The two go together in preserving
—perhaps a peck of Raspberries being used to
two of Currants. As to the culture of the Cur¬
rant little need be said, except that it thrives
well in any good soil, is a sure and certain
cropper, and that the fruit can be disposed of
as readily as almost any small fruit grown.
There are a number of varieties ; but all the

g arden sorts are good, and the size of the
erries and their j uiciness depends on culture.
There is great difference in samples, Currants
from poor soils being small and stringy, and
vice versd. Whatever the soil is like, good sub¬
stantial manure from the stable or cowyard is
always safe to apply, and if a dressing is given
annually, or even once in two years, it will keep
the bushes in good heart. Other culture con¬
sists in keeping the bushes wide enough apart
to let the light in all round them, and in
pruning, so as to allow the shoots sufficient
room.—C.

Canker in Apple trees.— Mr. Harris is
quite right in disbelieving that American blight
is ever a cause of canker in Apple trees. I see
no evidence, indeed, that canker is the result of
any insect work, to which we may, perhaps, be
just now too ready to attribute all our garden
troubles. It seems to be associated with low
vitality in the tree, but why the death of the
wood should occur in patches, instead of in
whole branches, as is so common in Apricots,
Plums, and other stone fruits, may not be clear ;
once or twice I think I have traced it to
accidental blows. It is well known that trees
which have become weak are more liable than
vigorous trees to the attacks of pests of all
kinds, animal and vegetable. Apple trees
suffer not only from American blight, but from
maggots eating into the bark and young buds,
from nests of caterpillars forming among the
young leaves, and eating into the fruit, and
from mildew, Lichens, and Mosses. The reason
why American blight ha3 been thought to cause
canker clearly is that it forms its nest in the
bjverhanging bark surrounding the cankered
wood. But it will be found that wherever

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jan. 3, 1883.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

551

there is a break in the bark from any cause,
from natural cracks, or from blows, or from the
catting off of branches, the blight will make its
nests in lines under the edges, and, on
examining, it will be seen that these lines corre¬
spond to the new bark, whioh is being pushed
forward to heal the wound, and from which the
insects are to obtain their nourishment. So far
u I have observed, they never fix themselves
but on young live wood. At present these lines
consist of a sort of white powder, but as spring
advances this will develop into the wool, and
come out of its shelter, and when the leaves
have come out in infested trees each axil will
after be found to have a little spot of white,
which, if neglected, will spread over the whole
branch till it becomes as woolly as a Willow
Catkin. 1 need not go into the question of the
wishes used to destroy the blight, except so far
as to Bay that during winter I have all my fruit
tree stems washed with a solution of soft soap
in Tobacco water. As regards the wounds made
by canker, I always cut the bark round them
close back, as in cutting off branches with a
sharp knife, and believe that this at once keeps
oat the blight and promotes the scaling.—
W. M. C., Clapton .

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Keep Heaths, Epacrises, Chorozemas, Boro-
nias, Tremandras, &c., in the coolest and freest
ventilated portion of the greenhouse, and forced
shrubs and other flowers, Orchids, &c\, in the
warmest parts. Cut over Chrysanthemums that
have done flowering, and keep a pot of cash
kind in a frame, if sufficient cuttings have not
already been obtained. Plant the others in the
open border, or, if not wanted out-of-doors,
throw them away.

Repot herbaceous Calceolarias and Cinerarias
as they require it, and keep them cool and well
watered. Fumigate to destroy aphis. Keep
Mignonette near the glass, and stake and tie it
as may be necessary. Have a good succession
of it, Violets, and other plants in pots. Regularly
train Tropaxduma, and give them a little manure
water if they are making good progress.

Ferns. —As most Ferns are now in a matured
state, they are in the best possible condition
for dipping in some kind of insecticide or fumi¬
gating to free them from thrips and scale.
Wooawardias and Tree Ferns are very subject
to black thrips, and the fronds, being far away
from the eye, often get permanently disfigured
before the enemy is detected. These should be
closely watched and fumigated two or three times,
at intervals of two or three days, before the
young growths start from the crowns. In mixed
ferneries a lower temperature than is frequently
given to many of our most useful varieties will
often render them insect-proof, or nearly so,
while the fronds when used in a cut state will
last mnch longer than when forced and attenu¬
ated in a strong heat. Where hardy Ferns are
grown in a cool house, many of them will soon
start into growth, but water must be sparingly
given for the present, care being taken that the
balls do not become too dry, as, owing to the
decomposition of the compost, the water is liable
to find its way into crevices instead of passing
through them.

Flower Garden.

Where flower beds are not planted with
spring-ilowering plants, have them deeply
worked up and prepared for planting. Flower¬
beds, to be perfectly successful, must be treated
according to the crop which they are intended
to carry. Some plants, as for exam pie, Abutilons,
Aralias, Shot plants (Cannaa), Caster-oil plants
(Ricinus), Solanums, etc., require a large amount
of manure to give them nobility of aspect and
perfect leaf development. In preparing beds
for these, especially in cold, wet localities,
place the soil on brick rubble, which will secure
good drainage, and tend to raise the tempera¬
ture of the Boil used. Use the compost in a
rough state.

Hardy Clematises grown as bedding plants
should now have attention ; prune them at
different periods, viz., in autumn, mid-winter,
and early in spring. Cut them back now to the
ground, and surface-dress'' with rich rotten
manure. This i* nocw^a^y t^>4eiik iqh i^uity

of bloom. Fill up all vacancies which occur
among spring-blooming plants.

Hardy plants. —Those who wish for plenty
of flowers for cutting during spring and summer
will do well to turn their immediate attention
to the culture, not in single plants, but in large
groups of such things as Spirrea Aruncus, S.
venusta, and S. palmata, Larkspurs, double and
single Pyrethrums, white Lilies, and Pseonies ;
also English, Spanish, and Japanese Irises,
early Gladioli, blue and white Scillas, and an
abundance of Solomon’s Seal for graceful foliage;
their culture is extremely simple, the secret
being deep trenching, good soil, ample space,
and plenty of water in summer. Where stock
is limited, old stools taken up now and divided,
or placed on a gentle hotbed for giving early
cuttings, will enable the cultivator to produce
strong plants for turning out in the spring, and
when well done they will increase in strength
and beauty for several years without further
trouble. Mixed collections should now be looked
over and top-dressed with a good layer of
well-rotted manure, leaf-mould, or charred
refuse, forking being deferred until the spring.
Fraxinellas, Larkspurs, and others for which
slugs have a liking may be well dusted with
soot or lime, and surrounded with narrow strips
of perforated zinc. Replace old labels and
devote wet days to the preparation of sticks
for summer use.

Trees and Shrubs.

The present is a good time to replant and re¬
arrange Rhododendrons. Sandy peat is the
best soil for them when procurable; but where
it cannot be had, they will grow in sandy loam.
In preparing positions for Rhododendrons, the
soil in the beds is best raised above the ground
level. In planting, hardy Azaleas must not be
overlooked, their brilliancy of flower and
delightful fragrance rendering them most de¬
sirable. They may be grown in masses by
themselves, or interspersed with Rhododen¬
drons, or used promiscuously in mixed shrub¬
beries. The Kalmia grows freely in low situa-
ations; and, moreover, it is one of the few
plants that rabbits will not molest. Common
Laurels should be cut down, but specimen
Portugal Laurels should not be pruned yet.
Thorn and other hedges should now receive
their winter cutting. Evergreen hedges, such
as those of Holly, Yew, or Laurel, should not be
cut until the end of March, just before they
begin to grow ; Privet may be cut at any time
during the winter after all danger from severe
frost is over.

Fruit.

Vines. —In late houses, where the Grapes
are uncut, use a little fire-heat, and ventilation
at the same time, to preserve a dry atmosphere
at about 45 degs. Examine the hanging
bunches weekly, and remove from them every
mouldy berry. Strip off the loose bark from
the late vine rods, and apply a coating of some
insect-destroying paint. Keep the unstarted
houses as cool and airy as possible, and prune
any vines not already operated on. Syringe
daily until the flowers begin to open, but not
after that, for plenty of atmospheric moisture
may be maintained by damping the floors and
walls.

Raspberries. —New plantations of Rasp¬
berries may now be made on cool, but well-
drained and deeply-trenched ground, for much
as its surface roots delight iu cool shade in
summer, a cold undrained border is decidedly
objectionable in winter. Where the garden lies
high and dry the canes may be planted in blocks
or squares, but in low cold places single rows
answer best. When single rows get established,
tightly-strained wires 3 feet from the ground,
and 2 feet on each side from the centre make an
excellent trellis for tying the canes to, making a
double row of fruiting wood from a single row
of b too Is, and at the same time allowing the
young growths to rise up from the centre with¬
out crowding or interfering with the gathering
of the fruit.

Gooseberries and Currants.— Fresh plan¬
tations of these may also be made when the
ground is in a fit state for working. Where
space is limited aud birds are troublesome the
red kinds are very prolific and ornamental when
trained to leaders and closely pruned as pyra¬
mids. Put in cuttings, choosing well-ripened
growths 1 foot in length. Romove the eyes

from two-thirds of the lower part, and insert
firmly to that depth in rows 12 inches apart.

Orchard and wall treke. —A very im¬
portant, but too often neglected, operation is
the cleansing of fruit trees immediately after
they are pruned. For general purposes there
is nothing better than Gishurst Compound,

8 ounces to the gallon of water, applied with a
painter’s brush when the weather is dry.
IVhcn American blight is troublesome a tea¬
cupful of paraffin may be added. Thin out
orchard trees, remove Moss, and wash the
stems with a mixture of soot and quicklime.

If the weather is favourable, planting orchard
trees may be proceeded with, unless the ground
be very wet, in which case it had better be de¬
ferred for a time. In preparing borders for the
reception of Apricots and Peaches, drainage is
of the first importance, and nothing is better
for this purpose than a good thickness of brick
rubble, over which has been laid large turves,
Grass side downwards. The soil (which should
not be leas than from 2| feet to 3 feet in depth)
best suited for Apricots and Peaches is a good
holding loam, to which should be added a cart¬
load of chalk to every dozen loads of loam ; of
course, if the loam be naturally chalky, this
addition is unnecessary. No manure should bo
mixed with the soil, as it is better to give it in
a liquid state, or to mulch thickly with rotten
manure, and allow the rain to do the rest. If
any old trees of Apricots or Peaches be looking
exhausted or starred now is the time to reno¬
vate them. Remove the soil down to the roots,
and, with small hand-forks, work out as much
of the old material as possible. Cut away all
suckers and cankered roots, after which fill iu
with good loam, and mulch with manure.
Other fruits, and especially Pears, may be
treated in the same way. When the weather is
favourable prune, nail, and tie Pears, Plums,
and Cherries.

Vegetables.

Sow Early Horn Carrots on a slight hotbed ;
also Lettuces, and keep those previously sown
dry and clean. Introduce roots of Chicory and
Dandelion to any place where they may be kept
dark, and in a temperature of about GO degs.
Make successional sowings of French Beans in
pots half-filled with rich loamy soil, and grow
them on front shelves in the hot-houses. Earth
them up before they begin to flower, and syringe
them regularly to keep red spider in check.
Newington Wonder, Syon Houso, Fulmer’s
Forcing, and Osborn’s are good sorts for
forcing.

Young plants of Lettuces in frames should
have the sashes tilted at back and front in mild
weather if wet; but if dry, they should be re¬
moved entirely throughout the day and replaced
at night. Tie up a few old plants of the Brown
Cos, as required. Place roots of Mint, Penny¬
royal, and Tarragon in boxes or pots, using
light soil, and introduce them into some heated
house or pit. A portion of a hot-bed may be
devoted to them.

Plant some Early Ashleaf of Potatoes in gentle-
heated frames, and sow some Radishes on the
surface of the soil. Ventilate on favourable
occasions, and do not over-water. Lift some roots
of Rhubarb and Seakale, and introduce them into
any heated structure. Some crowns may also be
covered, where they are growing, with pots, over
which place some litter or leaves. In order to blanch
Seakale it should always be kept dark. Sow a
few seedsof Tomatoes if early plants arerequired.

Early Cucumbers are much the best sown
singly in small pots, as by this method there is
no mutilation of the roots by dividing the plants
when repotting. Put a small bit of flaky leaf-
soil or fibrous loam in the bottom of each pot;
this will be drainage enough for the short time
during which the plants remain in pots before
being removed. Ordinary loam, with one-fourth
of sifted leaf-mould and a little sand, will be
suitable material in which to sow the seed, which
should not be covered more than half an inch.
Fill the pots two-thirds full of the soil at the
time of sowing ; this will leave room to add
more when the plants have attained a few inches
in height, and will induce them to throw out
roots up the stem, which tend much to strengthen
the plants. For ordinary purposes few sorts
equal the Telegraph. It is an abundant and
continuous bearer, but so free is it that if the
frails be not well thinned, the plants will soon
exhaust themselves .witH oy.e^bwin^ 1

552

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 3, 1885.

ROSES.

TEA ROSES AND THEIR CULTURE.

Roses are what may be termed everybody’s
flowers, all classes being well agreed as to their
beauty and excellence ; and it is encouraging to
Rose growers to know that they are annually
becoming still more highly esteemed. From
America we hear that Roses are more exten¬
sively cultivated than any other flower, espe¬
cially Tea Roses, the numbers of which grown
and sold in the markets being simply marvel¬
lous. English growers, too, like the Americans,
may safely invest in larger quantities of this
favourite flower. Many gardeners now, well
aware of the usefulness of Tea Roses, are either
providing a separate house for them, or setting
apart one that has been taken up with subjects
less valuable. Where this can be done the
planting out system is best, as they produce
larger quantities of buds than when grown in
pots; but a few Roses can be grown with satis¬
faction in the smallest garden and in pots where
it is not practicable to have them planted out.
To many in charge of these perhaps a few re¬
marks as to their propagation and growth may
prove acceptable.

Propagation. —In the first place, if no Tea
Roses are in the possession of anyone desirous
of taking up their culture, a few plants of good
sorts should be obtained from a nurseryman and
grown on as fast as possible, so as to induce
them to form plenty of flowering shoots. After
they have bloomed, as many of these flowering
shoot] as can be obtained should be taken oil
with a heel, as well as weak growths not
strong enough to flower, and be made into cut¬
tings, shortening them to the fourth or fifth
joints, and inserting them singly and firmly in
the centre of 3-inch pots filled with fine, loamy,
sandy soil. They should be placed in a propa¬
gating frame or under bell-glasses on a bed of
fermenting material, but neither should be very
hot, as this tends to promote top-growth before
root action has commenced ; they require to be
shaded from the sun by means of sheets of
paper. Any time from now till June and
onwards will do if a warm place can be pro
vided for them and if cuttings can be had,
Formerly we struck our cuttings in boxes or
pots filled to half their depth with soil and kept
them air-tight by using squares of glaBS to fit
over the box or pot respectively, but this we
have found does not answer so well as the
single pot system. By the latter method the
cuttings receive no check when potted on,
but the case is different when they nave to be
taken out of a box to be placed in pots. Cut¬
tings of this description will root in from ten to
fourteen days, after which they must be re¬
moved to more airy quarters ; a shelf in a warm,
moist house will suit them well for a time. They
must not be kept in these small pots long enough
to become root-bound, but should be shifted
into others two or three sizes larger, otherwise
they will be checked, and thereby become a prey
to red spider. As soon as they are partially re¬
established they should be removed to a cold
pit and kept close for a few days, so as to
gradually inure them to the cooler treatment
in view, after which they must be given air
rather freely. This will make them strong and
cause them to throw up sucker growths from
the base. As growth advances and the pots
become filled with roots they should be again
shifted into larger pots ; 8-inch and 9-inch pots
will be large enough for them the first year,
using soil for this and the previous pottings con¬
sisting of two parts turfy loam and one each of
well-rotted manure and sand, adding crushed
bones in the proportion of a 6-inch potful to each
barrowful of soil and pressing firmly. Fre¬
quent syringing will be found to be bene¬
ficial in favourable weather, and the frames may
be closed for an hour or so in the afternoons of
fine days, which will tend to encourage free
growth, opening them later on to dry the
leaves before night. Shading need not be re¬
sorted to except the weather be very hot, when
some thin shading material had better be
drawn over the lights rather than shading per¬
manently, the latter not being favourable to
the thorough ripening of the wood which is
necessary in order to flower them satisfactorily.
At the end of September the plants should be
removed to a greenhouse and kej)t rather cool
and dry by giviifca li^tlf ai*(offc ^favourable

occasions, and if a little heat can be turned on
by means of hot-water pipes during the day¬
time through long spells of dull weather, so
much the better, as this acts as partial pre¬
ventive to the attacks of milde»3 Roses are
well-known lovers of good and Jiberal diet in
the way of fertilisers, and there are many that
aie recommended for them. Clay’s and Stan¬
dees are very good, these predominating among
the patent forms, but I prefer farmyard liquid
manure to any of them ; it is also inexpensive,
a consideration not to be overlooked. Soot and
guano are both good stimulants. These are most
convenient in the form of paste, kept in large
garden saucers or flower-pots. In this way they
can easily be taken from one house to another
and take up but little space. There need be no
fear of over-luxuriant growth with Roses on
their own roots, as the stronger they grow' the
more and finer will be the flowers that follow
during the spring months.

Second season’s treatment. —About the end
of March these plants should be transferred to
12-inch pots, a size in which they may remain
two years, using soil of the same description as
before, and allowing them to remain in the
greenhouse as long as possible, or until the space
is required for other plants, when they may be
set on a bed of ashes outdoors, which we prefer
to plunging the pots. Here they remain until
the autumn, when they should be again re¬
turned to the greenhouse and treated as before.
All bloom buds should be kept picked off during
summer, thus reserving their strength for the
winter or spring blooming, as the case may be.
If large flowers are desired in spring the buds
should be removed until late in winter, and the
same holds good with regard to the young plants
when grown on. The only pruning necessary is
simply cutting away all weakly growing wood,
so as to encourage strong flowering shoots pro¬
duced in abundance from all parts of the main
stems. It is best to raise some young plants
annually, as by doing this old plants that
become exhausted or unsightly can be thrown
away, the younger ones taking their places.

Mildew' is apt to attack Roses at all seasons.
As a remedy for this we sprinkle flowers of
sulphur over the upper and under sides of the
affected leaves, but in dull weather we find that
this does not act so well as lime. This is pre¬
pared by placing a lump or two of quicklime
into a bucket or potful of water, allowing it to
slake and settle, and when nearly clear
syringing the w T ater over the plants attacked.
Care must be taken not to stir the sediment,
and in order to avoid this the vessel used must
not be moved about, nor the water taken from
too near the bottom, or the result will be that
the plants will be coated with lime. Mildew
and also green fly may be kept in check by
means of a decoction of soft soap and Quassia
chips. This is prepared by boiling 2 lb. of
each in a gallon of water for about an hour, the
decoction being strained off and stored in a
flower-pot with the drainage hole corked up.
Used as a preventive, a small quantity only
need be mixed with the water for syringing ; but
where the plants are much infested at least
half a pint must be added to 3 gallons of soft
water at each syringing. Fumigating is the
simplest method of clearing a Rose house from
green fly, and should any be infested with red
spider, a by no means uncommon occurrence,
thoroughly coat all the under sides of the
leaves with sulphur.

The best varieties. —Teas being grown
principally for furnishing fragrant cut blooms,
it is not advisable to grow a great variety ; the
wiser plan is to select a few of the most
serviceable sorts. Niphetos — a nearly pure
white variety, and particularly fine in the bud
state—is, perhaps, the most valuable of all, and
I am informed by a leading nurseryman that
the demand for it much exceeds the supply. It
succeeds best on its own roots, and cuttings of
it strike readily. Etoile de Lyon, a nearly new
sort, is undoubtedly the greatest acquisition of
late years. It grows freely, the blooms being
large and full, and of nearly the same shade of
yellow as Marshal Niel. Being perpetual
flowering, it is really of greater value than the
Marshal. Perle de Lyon will only be grown
by me till such time as Etoile de Lyon is abun¬
dant. It is, perhaps, of a rather richer yellow,
but it does not grow and bloom bo satisfactorily.
Catherine Mermet—a flesh-coloured Rose—an
far as habit and size of blooms aro concerned, is

the finest of all the Teas. Devoniensis, pro¬
ducing creamy-white blooms, is also very ser¬
viceable ; and Alba rosea (synonym, Madame
Brady), white with rose centre, is a very free-
blooming sort, but when nearly expanded the
blooms are not serviceable. Marie Van Houtte,
yellowish white, is valuable, and so also is
Souvenir d’un Ami, colour salmon-shaded roso.
This is one of the most vigorous Roses we
have, but the blooms should be cut before
they have fully expanded. For cutting in the
bud state, Safrano, apricot-yellow, and Amazonc,
deep lemon-yellow, are recommended. Louis
Richard, which we have only recently tried,
gives every satisfaction, and we have already
cut numbers of its large coppery-rose blooms.

_W. I.

Rose pruning. —A correspondent takes ex¬
ception in a recent number to the different
systems of Rose pruning advocated by
“J. D. E.” and myself. This difference of
method is more apparent than real. As far as
I can judge, there is no vital divergence, but to
“ A Correspondent ” I will point out again the
lines upon which pruning should be conducted.
“ J. D. E.” in his reply indicates these lines
very clearly, but all too shortly, as from such a
leading writer shortness is not a virtue much
relished by inquirers. If “ A Correspondent ”
will refer to the articles in which he found con¬
tradiction he will, I think, confess that he is
not warranted in saying “that both cannot be
right.” Both are right, having in view the end
aimed at by each writer. If a Rose grower wishes
to compete for prizes he prunes “ hard back,” or
to within G inches, as a rule, of the ground,
and cuts out all weak, withy shoots.
If the grower just wishes a lot of Roses for
general purposes, then he prunes to a higher
bud, it may be 2 feet from the ground, and
leaves bushy tops, if robust, with only slight
cutting off at the end of each shoot. I incline,
however, to the opinion that the light pruning,
while yielding a lot of Roses the year after
its adoption, is not so conducive to general
vigour and fine Roses, taking it over a series of
years, as is pruning well down every April. On
a wall newly-planted Tea Roses may be hard
pruned for a year or so ; but once vigorous
shoots have risen up, light pruning is always
right, unless at odd years, when new wood is
required, or the old shoots seem cankered and
disease appears. If hard pruning is followed,
let lots of manure be added yearly, and doses
of liquid manure twice a week when danger of
frost in May is over, and the growth of the
Roses will-be sufficient to satisfy anyone, while
the blooms will expand finely, and mildew and
insect pests be reduced to a minimum, as it is the
weak and poor fed plants that become a prey to
disease. Sometimes a Rose, like Charles Lefebvre
or Annie Wood, will not bloom as desired;
but just continue the heroic treatment and fork
in new soil in April if the soil has not been
changed for some years—as Roses like new
quarters every few years, or good feeding in old
—and the results in most cases will be good.
Round Glasgow I notice some gardens where
Roses will not thrive under any treatment,
while in other, and seemingly worse, situations
they do well. In the eastern district a gallant
colonel has not succeeded in growing Oloire de
Dijon with all the resources of skill and earth at
the command of his gardener, while at a short
distance from him an amateur can obtain grand
blooms under very ordinary conditions. These
contradictions abound in all departments of
flower and vegetable culture, and guesses at the
causes of such differences, however ingenious,
and attempts to remedy the evils, do not result
insuccessat all times, showing that the chemistry
of earth is not yet under human control.
Do not prune Roses early is a safe rule for
Scotland, certainly not in March, as Gardening
correspondents advocate. The finest Roses as a
whole that I saw this last good Rose season were
in the Manse garden, and were not pruned till tho
first of May. They were partly hard pruned
and partly not, are in a very fine situation for
soil and shelter, and many of the varieties are
some years planted, while others are more
recent, and all very fine sorts. In April, after
my own Roses were cut down, a friend asked,
“Where are they?” as in some cases hardly
an inch of wood was visible. At this moment
these invisible bushes of the middle of April
appear 3 ft. or more above ground.—A. Sweet.

URB ANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jan. 3, 18fc5.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

553

THE GLADWIN.

A conspicuous feature in the florists’ shops in
Covent Garden Market just now i B the Glad
win, the popular name of the common Irit,
or Flag (Iris fcetiduaima), a native plant which
may be met with by almost every river-side.
The seeds of this plant are of a bright orange
red, and when the seed pods split, which they
do in winter, these seeds are exposed, rendering
the plant highly ornamental and certainly the
brightest of native plants at the present time,
with the exception of, perhaps, the Holly. The
seed pods of the Gladwin are particularly useful
at this season for floral decorations. Arranged
amongst Evergreens, in stands of any descrip¬
tion, it is very ornamental. For winter deco¬
rations it should take a leading place amongst
berry-bearing plants. Its brilliant orange shade
of scarlet, and its graceful drooping habit, make
it highly effective in garlands and large
decorations formed of Evergreens, such
as are often used at that period of the
year. The Gladwin is sold in bunches

the woods and thickets of Devonshire, and
grows in several parts of Kent in dry hedges,
or, as in the neighbourhood of Hythe, along

the cliff-coast, aud on the banks near Dover.
It bears its flowers from June to August. Its
seeds are very beautiful in winter, when their
capsule shrivels, and displays them in all the

in Co vent Garden Market at a very cheap rate,
which makes them come within the means of all
classes. I myself have had some spike9 of the
Gl&dwin in use in a stand amongst Evergreens
more than a month ; and, with the exception of
the berries having shrunk a little, they appear
quite as fresh as when first placed there, and
their colour quite as bright. These seed-pods
also look very well if employed in connection
with fruit; but they must be mixed with Fern-
fronds or some other foliage. I have placed the
pods in the Moss that covers the soil of pot-
plants, selecting those which were opened out
to their fnllest extent, and placing them so as
to rest fiat on the Moss. Used in this way
they have a very pretty effect. If used in
church decorations they will form, I am sure, a
very important adjunct.

In “ Pratt’s Flowering Plants of Great
Britain,” this Iris is described as having leaves
sword-shaped ; perianth, beardless ; its inner
segments about as long as the stigmas ; root,
perennial. It is not nearly so showy a flower
as the Yellow Iris, for its petals are of a dull
blue, or, in some instances, a dingy yellow. The
plant has a singular odour ; but, while it is un¬
touched, this is not disagreeable; but if we
break the stem or crush a leaf, its scent becomes
extremely unpleasant. This Iris general!
grows a foot or a foot
though a local plant, is
and south west of Engl

, of the West of England ; bat it is local else-
[ where. The leaves are shorter, narrower, and
' of a darker green than those of the other kind.

The flowers are purple, and are followed by the
triangular seed-vessels, which, when ripe, open,

| disclosing the beautiful orange-coloured seeds,
j and rendering the plant very ornamental in the
autumn.” Most of those exhibited in Covent
Garden Market for 6ale como, I believe, from
Essex, where, I should suppose, they are culti¬
vated for that purpose ; but Iris fu-tidissima is
to be found in a wild state abundantly in many
parts of southern England and Ireland, as well
as in the localities above-mentioned. There is
also a variegated form of this plant, suitable for
the garden or conservatory, where, during
autumn, it forms a very ornamental addition,
its handsome scarlet berries being well Bet off by
the surrounding foliage. A. H.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

PROPAGATING EUONYMUSES.

The different varieties of the evergreen Euony-
mus japonicus are now among the most popular
of shrubs, and as they readily adapt themselves to
whatever circumstances under which they may
be placed, they are used for a great variety of
purposes. As seaside shrubs Euonymuses have
few if aoy superiors, while for window boxes,
balconies, and such places they are often em¬
ployed. Again, when trained against a wall
their dense glossy foliage is very effective.

SEED PODS OF THE GLADWIN (IBIS FCETIDISSIMA).

lustre of brilliant scarlet. They are numerous,
and most powerfully acrid.

Sowerby, in “Our Useful Wild Flowers,”
after speaking of Iris Pseud-acorus, says: —
“ The only other British Iris (Iris feetidissima)
remarkable for its very peculiar scent, has been
applied to the same medicinal purposes as the
common species. It abundant in some parts

whether it belongs to the plain dark-leaved kind
or the golden variety, the silver-edged, or the
nearly allied Euonymus r&dic&ns, all of which
are of quick and free growth.

The Euonymus is principally propagated by
means pf cuttings, which may be put in at any
time, bufcl autumn is generally preferred for that
purpose, Jibuti ^r^jeding

554

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 3, 1885,

summer will by that time have acquired a
moderate degree of firmness, and therefore be
in a suitable condition for the formation of
root]. The cuttings will strike if put in the
open ground, provided a somewhat sheltered
spot be chosen for them, but except along the
southern coast, or where the winters are cor¬
respondingly mild, the protection of a frame
should be accorded them, otherwise, in the
event of a wet and cold winter the loss will be
considerable. The method we employ with
great success is to take some ordinary movable
wooden frames, and after removing a few inches
of the bottom soil, replacing it with siftings from
the potting shed. The latter consist for the
most part of a light open compost, but if neces¬
sary more sand may be added. The surface of
the bed is then made a little higher than the
surrounding soil, but not more than an inch or
two, in fact, just sufficient should heavy rains
occur to prevent the bed from getting too wet;
if this is not done the water will percolate
through quickly into the lighter soil, and cause
it to become more saturated than the ordinary
soil of the border. The cuttings are left from 4 to
6 inches in length, and the leaves are stripped
from the lower half. It is not necessary to take
off the cuttings at a joint, nor to use a knife or
scissors for the removal of the leaves ; the
quicker method is to take the upper part of the
cutting tirmly but gently in the left hand, and
with the right strip off the leaves by means of a
downward pull. In this way they come off
without any injury to the bark, provided each
one is taken separately ; but if several are laid
hold of at once it frequently tears away some of
the bark, and renders the cutting liable to decay.
The soil having been pressed moderately firm
the cuttings are put in as thickly as possible,
without overcrowding, and when finished a
thorough watering is $iven. After allowing the
foliage to dry, the lights are put on and shut
quite close.

The after treatment consists in looking
them over from time to time, to remove any
symptoms of decay, or to give water if necessary;
while, if put in before the end of October, a
little shading during bright sunshine will be of
advantage. The lights should be kept close at
all times, except tho foliage becomes too wet,
when they may be taken off for a time, but re¬
placed as soon as practicable. In this way
many will be struck by the spring, and the
others then push out roots so quickly that the
lights can soon be removed. A good practice
is to go over them before they start into growth,
and just pinch out the top of each shoot, as that
tends greatly to induce a bushy habit. When
sufficiently rooted, they are planted out in a bed
prepared for their reception by a thorough
diggingi and the incorporation of a quantity of
leaf-mould with the soil. The plants are watered
when necessary during summer, and by autumn
are good little bushes, which, after another
season’s growth, are useful for many purposes.
A good mulching of leaf-mould prevents rapid
evaporation during hot weather, greatly econo¬
mising tho labour of watering. The variegated
Euonymus radicans strikes root easily under
almost any conditions—indeed, when trained
against a wall, if the latter is in any way damp,
it will frequently push out roots which adhere to
the surface of the bricks, or, when in the form of
little bushes they may often be pulled into
several pieces, each with roots adhering thereto.

Propagation by grafting. —Another method
is employed for the propagation of these
Euonymuses, and that is by grafting them in
the common Spindle tree (Euonymus europams),
the deciduous character of which does not seem
in any way to influence the scion. The Spindle
tree is easily raised from seed sown in the open
ground. When about the thickness of a lead
pencil, the young plants should be lifted during
the winter, potted in small pots, and plunged in
a bed of coal ashes till September, when they
will be thoroughly established, and fit for graft¬
ing. This is a very simple operation, for, as
the stock does not readily succumb, it may be
headed down to within an inch or so of the sur¬
face, and then cleft-grafted—split the stock
down the middle, and, if the graft is of equal
size, cut it in the shape of a wedge, and, having
inserted and tied it firmly in position, the opera¬
tion is complete. Should the stock, however,
be much larger than^the scion, a good way is to
leave the bark olj|jthe mfcjjt o> Ijr^f pile Bide, and

put in two scions, one on each side of the stock.
They join as well as one, and, as a matter of
course, form plants quicker. After being
grafted they should be put in a frame, and kept
perfectly airtight until a union has taken place,
which will be before winter, provided the opera¬
tion is performed by the middle of September.
If tied on securely, and the frame is perfectly
airtight, no clay or wax of any kind will be
necessary. One thing to bo observed, as
regards the different variegated Euonymuses
when in a young state, and especially the
golden one, is to remove any green shoots as
they make their appearance ; otherwise, from
their greater strength, they soon obtain the
mastery, and outgrow the variegated portion.

_ T.

EVERGREEN FLOWERING SHRUBS.
While many evergreen Bhrubs commonly
planted—such as Hollies, Box, Aucuba9, &c.—
present, when in bloom, but little additional
attraction, there arc, on the other hand, several
of the Bame class whose blossoms, as well as
their foliage, contribute to the ornamentation
of the plant. One of the most common is the
Laurustinus, which, for its winter-blooming
qualities, stands unrivalled among evergreens.
In mild winters especially, its blooms are pro¬
duced, even well on into the spring. Garry a
elliptica is also very attractive during winter,
being then studied with long, pendulous, pale-
green catkins ; but, except in the milder parts
of England, it requires a certain amount of
protection, such as that of a v/ all.

Barberries. — The large pinnate-leaved
Berberis or Mahonia japonica flowers in tho
early part of the year, and very pretty it is,
its clustered spikes of lemon coloured blossoms

i 'ust surmounting a noble head of foliage. Its
ilo88oms, too, are sweet-scented. The common
Berberis Aquifolium is a valuable evergreen
shrub, which thrives well in almost any situation,
and one which has few equals for planting under
the shade of trees. About May, which is the
usual season of flowering, this Berberis is very
showy ; but, though individuals vary somewhat
in the matter of floriferousness, as a rule its
ally, B. fascicularis, is superior to it in size and
profusion of blossoms. B. Darwini and
stenophylla are two of the handsomest of
flowering shrubs, the orange-coloured blossoms
of the Darwini being produced throughout the
winter if the weather is mild, and even in
spring it flowers very profusely. B. stenophylla
(a hybrid between B. Darwini and B. empetri-
folia) is more graceful in habit than Darwini,
and as a rule does not flower till spring; the
blossoms, too, are not so deeply coloured as
those of tho latter. When isolatod on a lawn,
this Berberis is seen to best advantage ; it is of
rapid growth, and soon forms a large mass from
which long arching shoots—literally golden
wreaths—diverge in all directions. B. Walli-
chiana forms a compact bush, consisting of deep
green foliage and bright yellow flowers. It is
a very desirable kind, yet somewhat liable to be
injured by severe frosts. The common Furze,
and its double-flowered variety, bloom in early
spring, and are then grand objects ; besides
which, they do well on hot dry banks where
but little else would thrive.

Daphnes are, for the most part, low, ever¬
green under-shrubs, with, in many cases, highly
fragrant blossoms. They are somewhat par¬
ticular as to treatment, doing best in a fairly

f ood soil, well drained, but by no means dry.
f possible, they should be so situated as to be
partially shaded, at least during the hottest
part of the day. Some of the procumbent ones
are well suited for rockwork, especially D.
Cneorum, which bears roundish heads of pretty
pink blossoms, and so fragrant as to quite scent
the air for some distance off. This kind is
sometimes grafted standard high, and, thus
treated, its long trailing shoots have a graceful
appearance. D. collina and noapolitana, small,
erect-growing shrubs, with pinkish flowers, are
very pretty, as is also D. Blagayana, a recent
introduction, with round heads of creamy-
coloured blossoms. If we except the deciduous
D. Mezereum, the moat vigorous growing are D.
pontica and laureola, neither of which arc very
attractive from a floral point of view.

Escallonias.— The different Escailonias are
neat evergreen shrubs, which flower continu
ously for months during summer, but unfor¬

tunately in most parts of England they are
rather tender, though in the south and west
they quickly form good-sized bushes, which,
when Btudded with small Fuchsia-like flowers,
are highly ornamental. E. macrantha is a very
desirable red-flowered kind ; indeed, the best
of that colour ; E. Philippiana, a comparatively
new kind, is a much-branched shrub, the slender
branchlets of which are during summer studded
with white blossoms.

Privets. —Most of the Privets are sub-ever¬
green, while others are strictly evergreen. Be¬
longing to this latter class, and withal fine
flowering shrubs, are Ligustrum japonicnm and
lucidum, both of which bear freely light feathery
panicles of white flowers. L. japonicum is a
compact evergreen bush, the foliage of which is
much deeper in colour where shaded—or at least
partially so—than when fully exposed to the
sun. L. lucidum is more vigorous in growth
than the last-named—indeed, I have seen large
bushes of it 1*2 ft. or 15 ft. high, which, when in
flower, were quite striking features. Both flower
towards the end of the summer.

Desfontainea. —Another desirable &hrub is
Desfontainea spinosa, in all respects greatly
resembling a compact-growing Holly, except
when in bloom, at which time the resemblance
totally vanishes, for the flowers of the Desfon¬
tainea are somewhat Fuchsia-shaped, a couple
of inches long, and in colour scarlet and yellow.
This handsome shrub is tender in many parts,
but it is well worth a certain amount of protec¬
tion, or, for the matter of that, tho shelter of a
greenhouse.

Choisya and Olkaria.—A couple of recent
introductions that have proved themselves to be
quite hardy, and withal pretty-flowering shrubs,
are Choisya ternata and Olearia Haasti. The
first is a neat evergreen bush, with bright

g reen trifoliate leaves, and clusters of white
owers something like small Orange blossoms.
It blooms, as a general rule, about May, though
flowers are frequently produced during the
summer and autumn. The second, Olearia
Haasti, is a New Zealand shrubby composite,
which becomes so covered with small white
Daisy-like flowers as to show but little of the
foliage. It blooms during summer.

Raphiolepis japonica is often seen treated
as a greenhouse plant, and not always with
satisfactory results, but when planted in the
open ground it forms a handsome free-flowering
little bush, and one that is perfectly hardy.
This Raphiolepis (sometimes called ovata) is of
low bushy growth, with dark green oval-shaped
leaves, leathery in texture. Its blossoms are
borne in open clusters on the points of the
shoots, and are white—bearing, in fact, a certain
amount of resemblance to the flowers of some
kinds of Crataegus.

Aralia Sieboldi is generally regarded as a
fine-foliaged plant, but it is also very pretty
when in a flowering state, and especially notable
from the fact of its generally blooming in
autumn when most other shrubs are over. The
flowers are borne in small globular heads, which
in their turn are arranged in a large erect
pyramidal panicle towering above the foliage.
The individual blossoms and their form of
arrangement in round heads resemble those of
the Ivy, but the largo open pyramidal spike,
sometimes as much as a couple of feet long,
forms a distinctive feature.

Veronicas. —Iu the milder parts of England,
especially near the Bea-coast, the different
Veronicas make fine evergreen flowering shrubs,
blooming continuously throughout the winter if
the weather is mild. Even in the neighbour¬
hood of London, if in a somewhat sheltered
spot, they will frequently pass several winters
without injury, and even if cut by frost they
quickly recover.

Rhododendrons.— R. Nobleanum is the first
to expand, flowering, as it frequently does, so^n
after Christmas. Where all are pretty and well
worth growing, a detailed list would sorve no
useful purpose. Some of the dwarf small-leaved
kinds are very interesting, and amongst them
are two or three very early-blooming varieties,
such as dauricum, Early Gem, and pra'cox.
Regarding Rhododendrons, it is a widespread
idea that peat soil is necessary to their well¬
doing ; such, however, is in reality far from
being the case, os‘they generally thrive in any
soil that is free from lime, even sometimes iu
stiff loam ; but this latter may be made better
by_podxing wi^h lt| some material

Digitized by

Gck igle

Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

556

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 3, 1885.

a good bunch of roots and soil adhering to
each, and put them as close as they will
stand together in a Mushroom house or on the
floor of a dark Potato store. They must be
lifted when dry, and all, except the small heart
leaves, ought to be stripped clean off them ; if
cut with a knife close to the stems, the ends
left of the leaf-stalks would soon rot, and drop¬
ping cause an offensive smell. A little moist
soil is worked in amongst the roots, but they
are not watered ; there is moisture enough in
them to feed the growth made in the dark. We
find that if -watered they imbibe too much;
after the heart shoots are cut much superfluous
sap exudes, which injuriously affects the side
shoots ; if not watered but little of this occurs.
The crown shoots soon grow aftor housing, and
these furnish the first cutting, but the pro¬
fusion of side sprouts which follow arc the best.
These should be cooked when 3 inches or
4 inches long, and, above all, used soon after
being cut. Much of the excellence of all
forced vegetables depends upon their not being
suffered to lie about for days before being sent
to table, an occurrence by no means unusual,
the result being that they become tough and ill-
flavoured. 1 have not tried any of the other
varieties of Borecole in this way ; but doubtless
Borne of them would answer quite as well as the
Buda. The middle or end of April is soon
enough to sow for a supply of plants ; they will
then be fit to plant out after crops of the earliest
vegetables are cleared off.—A. M.

Jerusalem Artichokes.— It may be out
of place to eay a word in favour of this Arti¬
choke, concerning which there exists much mis¬
conception. In the first place, any spare corner
is considered good enough for it, simply because
it will grow and produce tubers of some kind
under any sort of maltreatment. In the second
place, I have heard several people assert that a
shaded position suits it best. Now, I can con¬
fidently state that this Artichoke will repay
being given the best position available better
than Potatoes, for it will produce treble the
weight of tubers, and, moreover, they are fre¬
quently worth more in the market than Pota¬
toes, simply because so few trouble to grow
them really well, and as regards position,
I may mention that last year I planted
some in full sunshine where the soil was very
stony, and in summer so hot and dry that the
Artichokes looked as if they would bo scorched;
they did not make much top growth, but when
we lifted them I was surprised to find quite a
mass of fine tubers. I have frequently seen
the top3 more than double the height with less
weight of crop; therefore in future I Bhall
select the most open sunny position possible for
this Artichoke, and place the rows a yard apart.
This Artichoke ought to be more generally
grown than it is ; it is only from want of try¬
ing it that it is so little appreciated as a really
first-class vegetable. Its culture is extremely
easy, and the best storehouse for it is in this
ground until required for use. When severe
winters curtail the supply of tender vegetables,
this Artichoke forms a most useful reserve to
fall back upon.—J. G.

Growing Mushrooms in sheds. —
There are many persons who think good Mush¬
rooms cannot be grown without a special house,
total darkness, and about as much artificial
heat as is required to grow exotic plants, but
proof is not wanting that excellent Mushrooms
may be grown in the greatest quantity and to
the highest state of perfection in the absence
of any of these conditions. Our Mushroom
house, possessing all the items just named,
and capable of containing 50 yards in length of
4 feet wide beds, has for these last two years
been converted into a lumber place, as wo have
found Mushrooms much easier grown in the pot¬
ting shed. The latter is a lean-to one, behind
the vineries, 20 yards in length, 4 yards in
width, and facing the north. Inside, the potting
bench runs along the front, then comes the path¬
way, and finally a 4 feet wide space for holding
pots or soil. This has a board 1 foot wide along
the front, and the back wall is the boundary
behind. There is a door at each end, and when
both are open, as they not unfrequently are, it
is very draughty, but here Mushrooms grow in
the greatest profusion and luxuriance, and at no
other expense than that of making up the bed.
As we can only ig'et*manure dnrfng > the time
when the horaes^greg frefc. —W, |t£m August

until January—the beds are made up from
September till the latter month, and our
time of gathering begins in October and ends
in April, the coldest and most trying part of
the year, but that does not matter as far as the
shed Mushrooms are concerned. The beds are
made up in lengths ; sometimes some of them
are very short, not more than 5 feet long ; others
are two or three times that length, but all are
the same in depth—viz., from 1 foot to 15 inches.
The manure is moderately well dried, and
trodden down as firmly as possible. The spawn
is put in soon afterwards in pieces about the
size of a pigeon’s egg, and about 9 inches apart.
After this, the soil is put over to the depth of
3 inches ; then some dry hay is spread over the
top, and the whole is finished. As a rule, the
first Mushrooms are gathered in five or six
weeks after spawning, and as the beds bear for
a very long time iu a cool house, a succession is
produced for a considerable period.—J. M.

12321.—Asparagus beds.— There is the
old and new plan of growing this vegetable.
The old way with raised beds is more expensive
and laborious, but I think gives a greater return
of “grass” than the new one of growing it in
rows (somewhat after the manner of Potatoes),
but, of course, keeping the Asparagus a per¬
manent crop. In either case the ground must
be well drained, if necessary, in a stiff soil by a
layer of brick rubbish. On the old plan the
beds should be made 4§ feet wide, with alleys
between them of, say, 2 feet wide. Trench the
ground some 30 inches deep, and if it can be
obtained put plenty of seaweed in the bottom,
and well-rotted manure towards the centre, and
a good top-dressing dug into the surface. This
is best done in February or March. The beds
should be elevated by throwing the soil
out of the alleys upon them. Two or
three-year-old plants should be obtained as soon
as the plants commence growth. Form a drill
the length of the bed, about 9 inches from the
edge, lay the plants in it a foot or 15 inches
apart, taking care to spread the roots out all
round, and to shako the soil well in amongst
them, and cover them over about 4 inches;
plant other rows, to complete the bed, a foot
apart. Keep the beds free of weeds, and if the
weather is dry apply water. The “grass”
should not be cut the first year, but when the
foliage turns yellow it should be cut down ;
this, according to the season, will be from
October to December. The following February
give a top-dressing of thoroughly rotten manure,
and as Asparagus is a marine plant, a slight
dressing of salt is good. From this description
it will be readily seen that the preparation of
the ground on the new must be the same as on
the old plan, the chief difference consisting in
growing the plants in double rowB on the level,
thus dispensing with the labour of making and
keeping up the raised beds. The rows may be
made two and two together, with a narrow alley
between each double row, and the plants placed
18 inches apart in alternate order, so as not to
be opposite each other. Manuring and watering
should be the same.—J. P., Lancashire .

Blackberries. — The crop of this useful
native fruit was unusually abundant this year.
The brilliant summer weather when the
Brambles were in bloom, was followed by
copious rains, just in time to aid the final
swelling of the fruit, and the bushes were
fairly weighed down with bunches of fine
berries. These afforded a rich harvest, not only
to the rural inhabitants who live in close proxi¬
mity to the commons and waste lands, of which
large tracts still remain in this part of Hamp¬
shire, but Blackberry gathering affords a treat
to the dwellers in south-coast towns, who make
long excursions into the lanes and byeways, and
come home laden with fruit. The price for it,
owing to its abundance, has lately declined con¬
siderably. A singular fact, however, is that,
although perfectly wild, its value is generally
higher than that of Strawberries. The Black¬
berry in its uncultivated state grows most
abundantly on light, dry soils. Banks and
hedgerows are covered with it in this part, and
the dry, hard common lands, especially the
elevated portions, are richly clad with tangled
masses that grow on year after year, yielding
such crops of fruit as to set one thinking how it:
is that such a useful addition to our fruit list
has been so long neglected.—J. G., Gosport .

INDOOR PLANTS.

INDIAN DAPHNE.

(DAPHNE INDICA.)

Propagating. —This Daphne is generally
propagated by nurserymen by grafting on the
common D. Mezereum, and this is the proper
manner of increasing it, as it grows more freely
than when on its own roots, and it is not so
liable to suffer from an overdose of water, j
Seeing, however, the ease with which this plant
is propagated by means of cuttings, the temp¬
tation to increase it in this manner proves
irresistible to many, and the consequence is
that many of the specimens found in small
gardens prove a source of annoyance to the ■
owner, owing to the inability to keep them iu
anything like a free healthy bloom-bearing
condition. Not that there is any great difficulty
in preserving the plant in health when growing
on its own roots, but small growers are generally
so anxious to be shifting their plants that they
almost invariably get this Daphne into too large
a receptacle, in which case it is almost certain
to get at some time an overdose of water, and
the roots get into an inactive state, from which
it is difficult to move them. The great secret
is in the first place to bring the plant into a
root-bound state, feeding for a season, instead
of shifting, with weak liquid manure ; then
giving a slight shift, the fresh body of soil is
quickly filled with fibres.

Preserving in health. —To ensure main¬
taining this Daphne in robust health, the head i
of foliage should always be somewhat out of
proportion to the size of the pot, so that the ,
moisture poured into the soil is quickly utilised. 1
There need be no apprehension as to the roots
not having a sufficiently large feeding ground,
for this plant, like the Camellia and some other
hard-wooded subjects, appears to be able to
sustain life, and even vigour, when the soil
becomes and remains for several years packed
with fibres, and a thorough top-dressing of
some concentrated manure can always be given
when signs of diminishing luxuriance Bhow
themselves. When a Daphne has got into a
thoroughly bad state of health there is only
one way of restoring it to its normal condition ; '

the cause of decay laying at the roots, these
must once more be brought into good working |
order before the foliage can again assume the
hue of perfect health, or that free circulation be
induced so indispensable to the formation of
vigorous flower-bearing wood. Superabundance
of food having induced disease, the supply of
nourishment must be reduced, and that given
must be of a health-giving, easily-assimilated
nature. Let the soil in the pot get nearly dry,
and then work away as much as you can of it
with a pointed stick, carefully avoiding the
least injury to active healthy roots, and cutting
back diseased ones to the sound portion ; then
cram the roots in a pot just large enough to hold
them, and fill in with very fine sandy peat.
The best time for carrying out this work is just
as young growth is being made, and the plant
should be kept warm for a time until new life ia
thrown into it by the renewed action of the
nourishing organs. Water carefully until signs
of healthy growth are discernible, and then
give more liberal supplies. The first year will
tax the patience of the grower, as there will be
apparently but little progress ; but the vital
energies of the plant being restored, the follow¬
ing year will see it entering into a new vigorous
life.

Repotting. —And now a word as to repotting
this Daphne. Never do so until the points of
the young shoots declare themselves, for until
then the roots are not fully awake to their real
duties, and are just a9 likely to be sulky and
resent the disturbance by declining to enter the
fresh body of nutriment as not, in which case
there is a danger of their decaying at the points.

I should like to see this fragrant plant in every
greenhouse, and I think many more would
grow it could they succeed in flowering it well
year after year. I would advise intending
purchasers to get it if possible in the grafted
state, as it then does not need so much care ;
and to remember that, when on its own roots,
to use nothing stronger ^than _ peat, whereas
cn the Mezereon good loam may he employed.

I URBANA-CHAMPAIGN C<

*2 J it u £■ ff-B. §r. *r v-er m a &

Jan. 3 , 1885 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

557

WINTER FLOWERING BEGONIAS AND
THEIR CULTURE.

Toe best flowering kinds of the shrubby ever¬
green Begonias will, if properly managed, prove
of good sendee, both as flowering plants for the
conservatory and as a prolific source of useful
flowers for cutting during the dull months of
winter. The blaze of brilliant colours made by
the now indispensable tuberous-rooted Begonias
during the summer being past, we turn to the
winter-flowering kinds to fill the vacancy left
by the going to rest of their more gaudy
brethren. Although not so brilliant in colours nor
so large in the size of their blossoms as the tube¬

and annual kinds, the whole of the above may
be grown in a cool frame or even out-of-doors
] during summer. Cuttings put in early in the
year soon strike root and start into growth.
They should then be potted into 4-inch pots in
light rich soil, and when large enough again
shifted into 8-inch pots. By plunging the pots
in Cocoa-nut fibre or ashes the roots are kept
1 sweet and cool. Water should be liberally sup¬
plied during the whole of the growing season,
and a syringe overhead morning and evening in
bright weather should also be given them. In
| September the plants should be removed into a
frame or greenhouse, from whence they may be
i transferred to the warm conservatory or inter*

New winter-flowering Begonia (B. Carrierei). Flowers white.

rous-rooted kinds, yet there is much to admire
in the large drooping bunches of white, rose, or
scarlet flowers which are borne by the winter-
blooming Begonias. In addition to the true
species of shrubby habit from which many useful
garden plants might be selected, we have the
more or less popular hybrids, of which B. asco-
tensis, B. Knoweleyana, B. Ingrami, and B. in¬
signia are familiar examples. Some of the
numerous forms of B. semperflorens are also
in favour, because of their free-flowering and
ornamental characters, and in the several
recently distributed kinj
is one, we have other uf
winter.

With the exception of the tul

mediate house in batches, so that a succession
of bloom may be ensured. It is always better
to start with young plants every year in pre¬
ference to the old ones. The new B. socotrana
forms a cluster of bulbils at the base of its stem,
and these should be pricked into pans of light,
sandy Boil and started in a warm house. When
strong enough the plantlets may be potted on
and grown as for Achimenes. This species is
not capable of being satisfactorily cultivated
out of-doors nor in a cool house. Most of these
plants ripen seeds every year, and by gather¬
ing and so wing these in spring a large supply of
young plants may be obtained, which, in addi¬
tion to the vigorous growth they make, are not
unlikely to yield variety, or even a hybrid ract

os the flowers are often fertilised by bees, Ac.,
which fly from flower to flower, and so transfer
the pollen from one kind to another.

Selection of sorts. —The following is a
selection of the best kinds for growing as flower¬
ing plants for the winter, all of which are easily
obtainable and cheap.

B. ascotknsis. —A tall growing, fleshy-leaved
plant with large terminal drooping bunches of
bright red flowers. A first-class autumn and
winter-flowering kind.

B. Carrierei (see illustration).—This is the
result of a cross between B. semperflorens and
B. Schmidti. The flowers are nearly as large
as those of B. semperflorens, pure white, and
produced in abundance. It is a compact grower
and flowers freely during the greater part of
winter. B. Smithi and B. Bruanti are other
names by which this plant is known. Under
the last name it has been recommended as a
bedding plant. Messrs. Cannell, of Swanley,
have lately brought this fine sort into notice,
and to them we are indebted for the annexed
illustration.

B. Dioswelliana. —A hybrid raised from B.
odorata crossed with B. fuchsioides. It is a
short, robust grower, with medium-rized leaves,
and flowers on long semi-erect racemes, very
numerous, and pale pink in colour.

B. FcrciisuoiDBS.—-This may be included here,
as it flowers not only in summer, but on through
the autumn and winter if favourably situated.
The tall handsome habit and the large branch¬
ing pendant panicles of bright scarlet flowers
whicn belong to this plant are too well known
to be more than referred to here.

B. Lynciiiana. —This fine winter flowering
Begonia is also known under the name of B.
Roezli. The immense heads of bright scarlet
blossoms borne in winter by this species are of
great service both when cut and when allowed
to remain on the plant. It is easily grown, and
should become popular, being one of the moat
beautiful of all.

B. nitida. —Everyone knows this useful old

S lant, its large Bhining leaves, borne on stout
eshy stems, and its terminal and axillary

S anicles of large, rose-coloured, Bweet-scented
owers being frequently met with in conserva¬
tories during winter and spring.

B. Schmidti.— A dark green-leaved plant of
compact habit, bearing numerous small white
flowers which are abundantly produced all over
the plant, and form a pretty contrast with the
foliage.

B. hemperflorkn 8.—This is always in flower
both winter and summer. By pinching out the
flower-buds in the summer handsome specimen
plants may be grown, and these in winter will
flower freely. The flowers of the type are
white, but there are also varieties of this which
bear rose-coloured or pink and white flowers.

B. socotrana —The pretty peltate leaved
plant about which so much has been said, both
because of the delicate beauty of its bright red
flowers and the carious nature of its stem and
rootstock. It is a deciduous specios, going to
rest in Bpring to start again into growth in the
early autumn. Though now it is now tolerably
common and cheap.

B. WELT 0 KIEH 8 IS.—An old garden favourite
which is a hybrid between B. Dregci and B.
Sutherlandi. Its graceful bunches of pink
flowers, which are freely borne on the numerous
branches, are particularly welcome in winter.

B. W. Q.

PLANTS AND GASLIGHT.

As regards injury or non-injury to plants in
dwelling-houses from gas, or, rather, gaslight,
air-desiccation by gas heat, Ac., or the sul¬
phurous acid gas which is its combustion pro¬
duct, the following observations may perhaps
be of some interestPremising that gradual
acclimatisation to the peculiar atmosphere
seems to be generally a most important factor
in the results or non-results, I would remark that
I have found some of the Acacias to shed their
little pinna? and then rapidly perish. I may
mention the case of a large healthy plant which
I had of the very rare and graceful Acacia pen-
dula, which seemed to exhibit, though only a
phyllodious, not a piijmate species, even
greater sensitiveness to the same noxious tn-
fluenS, whether actinic,, deskeatory. sul-
urous, or ill-timedly excitant. Left for cer-
t .iri v not more than two or three hours (if I

558

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan* 3 , 1885 .

mistake not, at this distance of time, for less
than one hour) in a drawing-rooiii after the
lighting of the gas, it next morning showed
signs of injury, and, in spite of getting every
possible ohance of recovery by instant removal
to the more genial atmosphere of a greenhouse,
never rallied. On the other hand, with proper
precautions, I have not always been so unfor¬
tunate with even some of the pinnatifid Acacias,
while another of the phyllodious species, the
common Acacia armata, seems very generally to
thrive well enough, even in gas-lit apartments.

The general moral to be drawn from all such
observations seems to be that plants not only
naturally vary enormously in their suscepti¬
bilities to the adverse gas influences or dwelling
house influences of whatever nature, but that a
very great deal often depends on their previous
circumstances of growth and consequent excep¬
tional preparedness, or unpreparedness, to make
resistance to the desiccatory, sulphurous-poison¬
ous, or actinic-excitant, or other abnormal influ¬
ence, or influences, to which they are to be sub¬
jected. What is perhaps likely to prove more in¬
teresting to at least some of your readers is, how¬
ever, this, that I have during the last few years
successfully grown and reared from the seed
during winter healthy plants of various sorts by
tho light (I don’t mean heat, though I have used
that too) of a common gas flame, tho said flame
having been kept in many cases, and with
benefit, within two or two and a-half inches of
the plants, a proximity which would, of course,
had it not been for the intervention of glass,
have at once burned up and destroyed the
plants. The gas flame was generally kept burn¬
ing day and night, in spite of the apparent in¬
clination of a pinnatifia-leaved Acacia, one of
the included pot plants, to go to sleep in one of
the early morning hours by the usual folding
together of its pinnre. That the gaslight fairly
well supplied to the plants the place of sunlight
may be inferred, especially from the closeness
of their joints—not much further removed from
one another than in the normal summer growths
of the same plants near the glass by sunlight,
and certainly closer than would have been found
a winter growth by winter sunlight in a green¬
house heated to the point (during the day and
evening often 80dega. and upwards) at which
the growth was generally made.

As conducted Toy me under a hand-glass by
aid of a common flat gas-jet flame, these experi¬
ments (though they have enabled me to preserve
through winter some delicate plants which I
could not otherwise, having no stove, have
preserved alive, as well as reared for me in very
early spring, from seed, various healthy and
now thriving plants, and might be of similar
service to others), are of course brought for¬
ward, not so much as practical results in culti¬
vation, as experiments of some little scientific
interest, and possible pioneers towards, and
foreshadowers of, something of really practical
value, when we come to substitute for the
ordinary gas-jet improved gas-jets and gas-
flames, especially the already well-known lime¬
light, or other gas-flames, having their light
intensified and whitened by aid of other com¬
pounds of the metals calcium or magnesium, and
with the accompaniment of mirrors which will
reflect the light, instead of allowing it to go to
waste.

We have heard a good deal lately of the
electric light as applied to cultivation. May
not gaslight, being as vet much more within
the reach of most of us, be anyhow in the mean¬
time also deserving of some attention and
development as a source of light for plant-
growing and fruit-ripening ? Field .

CINERARIAS IN WINTER.

I find the Cineraria to be even more useful in
winter than in spring, and, as it delights in a
cool, moist atmosphere, it lasts in flower much
longer in winter than when the sun’s rays begin
to get powerful. In order to have plants in
flower at January, the seed should be sown
in March, in gentle heat. As soon as the
young plants are large enough to handle
they should be pricked off in pans or boxes
filled with light rich soil, and in these they
should remain until they get large enough to
pot off in 4 inch pots. A cold frame Is the best
position for them in surmper, and in fine weather
the lights may be kept .curtly xjL>s the
sturdier they are kef Y-thfe vxftvery

large specimens are desired, 6 inch pots will be
large enough, for as soon as the pots get full of
roots, growth may be greatly assisted by weak
liquid manure or clear soot water. I find a
shelf near the glass in a cool house to be the
best position for them until they come into
flower, when they look well in vases or drawing¬
room stands. In the case of well-grown plants,
the foliage completely hides the pots, and the
flowers look well under strong artificial light.
If green fly attacks the plant, fumigate with
Tobacco smoke or dust with Tobacco powder,
but the cooler the plants are kept, the less likely
are they to be affected with these pests. For
general decorative purposes named sorts are
hardly needed, seedlings answering the purpose
equally well. J. G.

A FEW GOOD FUCHSIAS.
Fuchsias are now so plentiful that making a
selection is often difficult. Notwithstanding
the great number of so-called new varieties, they
by no means supersede some of the older kinds
which have long been favourites, and which will
probably maintain their position for years yet
to come. After flowering a large collection of
both old and new varieties, I am inclined to give
the following as a selection oi the best in their
several classes; and though, perhaps, some may
feel inclined to differ from me, the names here
appended may at least be taken as a good dis¬
tinct selection for general decorative purposes:

Light varieties. —In this class—that is,
kinds with a white tube and sepals, and a
coloured corolla—Arabella, or Mrs. Marshall, is
such a well-known market plant that nothing
further need be said regarding it, except that
to flower early it is surpassed by no other kind.
Lady Heytesbury is of such sturdy growth that
it seldem needs any support; the corolla, too,
is of a pleasing purplish tinge ; it is a very fine
light Fuchsia for summer flowering. Starlight is
of good habit, and the flowers are finely Bhaped,
with a deep magenta-coloured corolla. Mrs.
Bright has a pale scarlet-coloured corolla. A
very old variety, Guiding Star, has a small but
perfectly-shaped flower and a very desirable
habit of growth.

Dark varieties. —Among dark flowers I
would name Try me Oh 1 which for flowering in
5-inch or 6-inch pots is one of the best, though,
in order to form large specimens, some of the
more vigorous growing kinds are to be preferred.
It has a prettily reflexed flower with deep
purple corolla. Turban is one of the best of the
crinoline class. President is a large brightly-
coloured massive flower, and is good in habit
Crown Prince of Prussia has individual blooms
massive in colour and brightly coloured, while
the plant itself grows and flowers freely. Wave
of Life combines foliage of a golden tint with
finely-shaped flowers. Creusa is in all respects
desirable, the corolla being like purplish-black
velveted kinds.

Dark doubles. —Among dark double-flowered
kinds, Avalanche has short-jointed growth, is
free flowering, and produces very large blooms.
Extraordinary has short horizontal sepals, and
is a distinct and floriferous kind. The Albert
Memorial is in all respects a desirable variety.
Violet le Due is a very double flower, with at
times a parti coloured corolla. Alphonse Daudet
has large flowers, combined with a good free-
blooming habit; the corolla is a fine dark purple,
and for late blooming it is a desirable kind.
Nouveau Mastodonte is a free-growing variety,
with very large flowers, the corollas of which
are more or less striped. This is better suited
for growing into large specimens than for flower¬
ing in a small state; so are Phenomenal and
Champion of the World, both of which bear
great blooms, which are very showy, but
sparsely borne on small plants.

Single Fuchsias with a white corolla are not
largely represented ; amongst them I would
select Mrs. E. Bennett, a good vigorous kind,
and Cannell’s Gem, a pretty little free-flowering
Fuchsia. Double kinds of the same colour
ought to include Miss Lucy Finnis, a weak-
habited variety needing a good deal of support,
but yielding in great profusion large globular
flowers, even on plants a foot high. Mdme.
Jules Chretien is also a large-flowered kind, but
the blooms are much longer, and the habit of the

S lant altogether stouter, than in the last-named.
Idmc. Galli Marie has the corolla of a pure
clean tint, with very bright-coloured sepals. It

does well as small specimens; but one of the
best in this respect is Voix du Peuple, a sort
with small or medium-Bized flowers, something
like the older Vainqueur de Puebla, but mors
floriferous in a small state than even that kind.

A few good distinct varieties that make fine
decorative plants, yet cannot be classed under
any of the above heads, are Earl of Beaconsfield
and Mrs. Rundell, with reddish-coloured tube
and sepals, and deep crimson corolla. Though
the individual blooms are by no means so perfect
in shape as those of most other kinds, these
varieties are very popular decorative plants,
owing to the profuse way in which their bright-
coloured flowers are produced. There are
several Fuchsias, the corollas of which are more
or less striped, one of the most regular in this
respect being Bland’s Striped, a dark-colcured
flower striped with rose. Sedan is almost self-
coloured, a sort of pale red; it is a showy deco¬
rative variety. Alba coccinea, with a pale
crimson tube, white sepals and purplish corolla,
is quite a distinct flower. Father Ignatius and
Roderick Dhu are a couple of small-growing
kinds, with bluish coloured corolla, the last
having a good deal of the crinoline character
about it. Though in the opinion of some there
may be other varieties that I should have men¬
tioned, the above may be taken os a good distinct
selection. _ A.

HOW TO TREAT SEEDS.

Have any of your readers ever remarked the
effect which dry treatment has on newly-sown
seeds when they vegetate ? In nine cases in
ten the first thing the cultivator does after
sowing a pot of seedBisto water them thoroughly.
Some even steep certain seeds in water previous
to sowing, which may be advantageous in
certain cases ; but I am far from thinking that
immediate soaking of newly sown seed is
beneficial. I first noticed this in the case of
Melon and Cucumber seeds, viz., that those
seeds which were not watered for some days
after sowing germinated most freely and more
healthily. Those which were well watered
when sown were weakest and palest in the
foliage, and the difference was quite apparent
to anyone. Since then I have carefully abstained
from watering all seeds we are particular about
until they have begun to swell and burst their
scales. Several physiological explanations of
this suggest themselves ; but here I only state
the fact that seeds are better not watered until
some little time after being sown. I am speak¬
ing of seeds sown under glass ; but I have often
noticed the same thing in the case of outdoor
seeds, particularly in that of Peas, Carrots,
&c. Peas sown in friable, dry soil, and which
experience a short spell of dry, sunny weather
afterwards, come up strongly, and fewer seeds
rot in the ground, as many are apt to do,
especially those of the later and more tender
Marrow kinds.

This may not appear to be a great matter ;
but 1 know that in the case of tine seeds, sown
under glass, there are often great disappoint¬
ments, and much depends on management.
The seedsmen, or the quality of the seeds, are
not so often to blame as people sometimes
think. No cultivator of experience expects
more than a liberal percentage of his seeds to
grow, while some are always doubtful; but,
unless the sowing is managed skilfully, many
things may fail partially or altogether. Covering
seeds too deeply is one of the most fertile causes
of failure ; many a failure is due to this, and the
cause is never suspected. Big seeds of vigorous
growing plants—like Broad Beans, for example
—have almost as much power as Potatoes to
push up through a heavy covering of soil; but,
with exceptions of this kind, no seeds should
be covered deeply, and small seeds should
hardly be covered at all. It is necessary to
surround them with sufficient compost to keep
them always moist, but more than that is not
needed. The seed should, in the first instance,
be sown on a perfectly level and even surface,
and then sprinkled over with a compost put
through the finest of sieves. I am speaking of
seeds like those of the Primula, Cineraria,
Lobelia, Carnation, and Calceolaria. It does
not matter so much what kind of compost the
seeds have got under them, but that above them
should always be fine and open, consisting in
largo part of sand and peat, and leaf-mould,
which will be found suitable for covering any
seeds, J ^ut -'ather tha:a put too greut a depth

Jan. 3 , 1865 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

559

of even this light compost over very small
seeds, it is better to barely cover them out of
Bight, and place a sheet of newspaper over the
pin, or box, till vegetation takes place. The
only object of covering seeds seems to be to keep
them moist, and this can be effected with a
paper cover only, laid over the jbox. Begonia
seed is often sown in this way, it being too tine
to be covered.

Next to these matters comes watering. A pot
or pan of fine seeds is soon cleared by a careless
waterer or an awkward watering pot. The rose
of the watering-pot should be very fine, con¬
sisting of many holes, as small as they can be
bored, bo that it will just deliver the water in
a gentle spray or mist, and not with sufficient
force to dislodge the seeds or disturb the surface
of the soil. Seed-pans should never be floated
with water, or the likelihood is the seeds will
all swim to one corner, and that many of them
will be buried and never corne up. The rules
to be observ ed in the case of outdoor seeds—
flower seeds and vegetables—are the same.
Sow when the soil is in the open, friable state,
and cover thinly, in proportion to the variety
of seed. Peas will push through’ 3 inches or
4 inches of soil, but more will vegetate under
less top-weight, especially in heavy soils. The
nature of the soil should always receive atten¬
tion. Seeds sown in light, sandy soil, are safe
under a depth that would kill them in a stiff
soil; hence the rules laid down in calendars
are often misleading in such matters. P. N.

12382. — Chrysanthemum Felicete.— I
know a variety of this name, which is probably
the same as that in question. If this be so, it is a
Urge white-flowered, re flexed variety. It is
not much grown, although it was valued
at the time it was sent out. It would
certainly be admissible in a group of large-
flowered varieties. It is not Japanese. If the
schedule said “ large-flowered, incurved varie¬
ties,’* then it would not be admissible. It is of
the section of Annie Salter, Christine, Dr. Sharp,
&c.— J. Douglas.

- This sort is always classed in catalogues ax a rc-

flexed kind, though it is not always easy to decide which
are reflexed and which Japanese, but in this case it is
pretty clear.-W. M.

Hardiness of Camellias.—Few people
know how hardy the Camellia is in the southern
counties. It is not only hardy, but it flowers in
a wonderful way, even in severe winters, and it
survives where the Laurel is often killed. We
never saw Camellias better in any country than
in the Isle of Wight, where the ground is
covered, sometimes inches deep, with fallen
flowers. We were also pleased to find the bush
hardly less vigorous and free-blooming at
Coolhurst, near Horsham, in a much colder
district. There, after the Bevere salt gale of
last year, by pushing aside the branches of thick
bushes, many fresh flowers were gathered last
season. The plants are mostly grown in the
shelter of houses or walls, but we believe they
would afford quite as good a result in sheltered
spots away from such protection. The constant
presence of the Camellia in our greenhouses and
conservatories has helped to conceal its extra¬
ordinary value in the open air over a wide extent
of country. It would be interesting to know
how far north or along the coast it succeeds.

Hydrangea Stellate.— The pretty star-
like double blossoms of this kind afford a
pleasing variety to the more generally culti¬
vated forms of Hydrangea, for, though by no
means new, it is but Eeldom met with in gardens,
either as a pot plant, or, where the climate is
sufficiently mild, treated as an outdoor shrub,
both conditions being suitable for it. Like the
common Hydrangea, it is the sterile flowers
alone that form the showy part. They are,
however, borne in sufficient numbers to form a
full head or cluster, and not limited to ascattered
few, as in some varieties of H. japonica. The
colour of the bloom is a light pink when grown
under glass, but, if exposed to the sun in the
open air, they assume a deeper tint.—A.

Prevention of inseot pests.— Thrips
and red spider are soon brought into activity by
keeping up a hot dry temperature without
sufficient ventilation. So in order to avoid
thrips and other such pSsfB, the tempeiktiire of
a hot-house or greenhouse sl^oijil \ 1 jlvMlqJooked
after; and, lest anyTnnafeeur uppers who
are just starting on a fi : i areer

may not know what thrips is, we may state
that it is a very small dark insect, which ad¬
heres closely to the underneath surface of the
leaf, and is particularly fond of the Azalea, but
visits other plants. As soon as it is discovered,
a war of extermination should be declared and
rosecuted with vigour. Green fly is easily
etected and dealt with ; but it is safer to pre¬
vent it by smoking in time than to allow the
pest to increase until it becomes a swarm. It
may be safely stated that imporfect ventila¬
tion and drought havo more to do with the
appearance and establishment of these pests
than any other causes.—R. D.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

1 2363 . — Japanese Chrysanthemums.
—There are very numerous varieties in this
section. The following would be twelve good
sortsChang, dark orange red; Sultan,
purple ; Piuie d’Or, yellow ; Elaine, white ;
Yeado, lilac; M. Crousse, coral red ; Dr.
Masters, yellow and red ; Jane Salter, white
and lilac; Nuit D’Hiver, bronze; Cry KaDg,
magenta; Peter the Great, lemon yellow ;
Rubra striata, or Emperor Nicholas, red-tipped
gold. The following are also good flowers: —
Red Dragon, Chinaman, Aurantium, Fair Maid
of Guernsey, Rosea superba, Orphde, and
Garnet.—J. P., Lancashire .

11394.— Tropseolum. —In reply to this
query, I also very much admired the lovely
creeper at Bettwa-y-coed, especially at the
Gydir Hotel. 1 went in to ask the name. So
many people ioquired that they kept the name
written on Dickson’s cards, where they got it
fromthus: “ItistheTropieolumspeciosum, James
Dickson and Sons, Newton Nurseries, and 198,
Eastgate, Chester.” I sent to the firm for two
plants or bulbs. They were just starting to
grow, packed in damp Moss by parcels post.
They have grown and flowered remarkably well.
Any further inquiry shall be glad to answer.—
Mrs. G. Burnham, Biirs ' wick , Hull .

12381.— Mice in greenhouse.— They are
probably short-tailed field mice, and therefore
very difficult to entice into the ordinary trap*.
I once planted a house with vines. They com¬
menced eating the young growths. Wo were
fairly puzzled how to destroy them. I found
they were fond of Grass. We therefore sunk a
vessel in the ground, tying brown paper over it,
with a slit cut in it. As soon as a mouse stepped
on the paper it fell through into the vessel,
which was half-full of water. Thev were
tempted to the trap by strewing fresh Grass on
the paper. We caught one an hour after setting
the trap, and the vines were never afterwards
touched.—J. D. E.

Colouring greenhouse walls.— When¬
ever greenhouses have been finished by practical
workmen the brickwork of the inside walls is
always whitewashed to make them look clean
and have a light appearance. If your corre¬
spondent prefers red, black, or blue he can get
any colour from the Silicate Faint Company,
Seel Street, Liverpool, which will stick on lime,
glass, iron, or wood. I havo tried it on nearly
every material with great success —James C.
Kershaw, Bunburi /, Cheshire .

12333.— Fruit trees for east aspect —The Morcl’o
Cherry or Mu»scl Plum would be the best for this aspect.
I have known Gooseberries trained and succeed well on a
north-east wall.—J. P., Lancashire.

12392. — ApDlying gras tar to vines.— This is
certainly not harmless. It is injurious to all trees ; at
least, to the smaller branches. The best mixture for
dressing vines is strong soft soapy water, thickened with
flowers of sulphur: add a little soot to take oil the glaring
yellow colour. This mixturo will destroy any insects
infesting the vinca—J. D. E.

12195.—Chrysanthemum blooms spotted —
This is caused by damp. Any kind of heating apparatus
would do to get lid of the damp, but it should bo used in
the daytime when the ventilators are open. It does more
harm than good if used at night when the house is shut.—
J. D. E.

12383 — Leaves for hotbed.— The best wav to make
a hotbed with leaves is to mix them w ith stablo manure
fresh from the yard. A bed made in this way lasts a long
time, and no hotter hotbed can ho u*cd for propagating
all sorts of cuttings, or for Cucumbers. The leaves can be
raked together and left in a heap previous to using, or
they may bo mixed with the manure at once.—J. D. E.

12390.— Vines In greenhouse. — A greenhouse
20 feet long by 9 feot wide would well accommodate two
vines. As the house is intended to grow greenhouse
plants, Illack Hamburgh would bo the best variety.
Plant the vinos in the front of the he use, about 4 feet
from the end!. It is best to place tkoiii outside.—J P E.

Harrison’s Musk (Amateur).— Apply to one of the best
seed shops who advertise in our advertisement columns.
Sow the seed in February cr March in shallow pans placed

in a hotbed or greenhouse.- Making le*f-mould

(Beginner).— Make a heap of tho leaves in the open, turn

them occ sionally ; fcimo will do the rest.- Unhealthy

Roses (F. 2J).—You are apparently keeping too high a
temperature and too moist an atmosphere, the result b« Ing
flimsy foliage, which is so susceptible to injury by drauuhw.
Lower the temperaturo to about 50 degs., and do not
water or syringe more than is necessary to maintain a nice
growing atmosphere, and you should regulate the tempera¬
ture of the house by the outside temperature. If fret zing
for instance, 60 degs. inside is quite high enough.

Names of plants. — C. it.—1, Polypodium vulga c
cambricum ; 2, Polystichum angularc proliferum ; 3, Poly¬
stichum aculeatum*; 4, Polystichum coniifclium- Ben.

One of the shrubby Veronicas, probably V. salicifolia. In
any case it is worth growing. It will bo hardy in your

locality ; or you may grow it in a pot in a greenhouse.-

Unde Jeff - .—I, Calanthe vrstita rubro oculata ; 2, C.
vestita luteo-oculata ; 3, Variegated Pine Apple (Anrnassa
sativa variegata); 4, Rat-tail Cactus (Cereus flagelliformis).

Send better specimen next time.- II. B. P. B. —l, Nipho-

bolus Lingua ; 2. Triehomanes radicans ; 3, Polypodium
Billardieri; 4, Polystichum capense ; 5, Cotoneaster rnicro-

phylla.- Ostcestry. —1, Polypodium vulgare ; 2. Asplc-

nium Adiantum-nigrum ; 8, Polystichum munitum ; 4,
S, ecies of Mcsembry anthemum. Send when in flower.
——C. R. —1, Cvrtomium carvotoides ; 2, Pteris erotica
albo-lineata ; 3, P. sorrulata; 4, Platyioma rotund if olium.

Names Of flrults.— W. C. Waller.— 1, Hunt’s Deux
Acs; 2, Flower of Kent; 3, 8w eeney Nonpareil; 4, Bishop's
Thumb.—— J. Adams. —Ckix’s Pomona.——//. M. M. —

Scarlet Nonpareil.- A. II.— 1, Adam’s Pcarmain ; others

not known.

QUESTIONS.

Rules for Correspondents.—All communications

for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the paper only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Publisher. The name and
culdress of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
de plume to be used in the palter. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper Owing to the necessity of
Gardening going to press a considerable time before the day
qf publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com¬
munications the week they are received. Queries not answered
should be sent to us again.

Naming 1 plants or fruit.— Four plants, fruits, or
flowers only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens are sent We do not undertake to
name varieties of florists' fUnoers, stick as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
name should always accompany the. parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
specimens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12460.— Hollyhocks.— “J. D.’’describes Hollyhocks

6 feet in diameter. I have been removing all growths from
the roots except the main stem, and cutting away all
side branches. Have I been doing wrong T— Beginner.

12461.—Heating conservatory.—I have a span-
roof conservatory leading from drawing-room, 18 feet lv
104 feet. I intend heating it with hot water. What length
of 4-inch pipe shall I require to ke ep temperature up to
CO degs. in winter? I also wish to build a small lean-to and
heAt it sufficiently to keep out frost. Will someone kindly
give me a ftw instructions on management? I should like
to grow a few Palms, Orchids, and hothouse flowois, also
some of the cool greenhouso varieties. Can it be done by*
keeping one house much cooler than tho other, and shift¬
ing the plants?— A New Subscriber.

12462.—St. David's Leek-Would "J. M.,” who
wiitea "On Vegetables Worth Growing,” inform me
where I could get Leek seed of the variety St. David, true ?
—Exall.

12463 —Jensen’s Potato culture.—In Mr. Hob¬
day’s admirable article on Potatoes he mentions tho
Jensen system of culture, without, however, more lhan a
hint of its being one adapted for wet soils. Would he
give some details? The Champion is deteriorating. Mine
had this year a lot of disease; but what is to take its
place?— Market Grower.

12464.— Tuberose culture.—Will “ Byfleot ” give a
little more information on the growth of Tuberose i and
timo to i*>t them ? I want to bloom them in August and
September. I want them to g>ow in 9-inch pots, llow
many bulbs should I put in ?—Amateur.

12465.— Advice on a Holly tree.— Will some of
your readers give me advice as to the treatment of a Holly
tree, which seems in a somew hat unhealthy state ? It m a
large tree, the trunk being 8 feet high before the branches
begin, and 3 feet from the ground the trunk is nearly

7 feet in circumference. The treo must bo quite revinty
years old. The leaves are now very ecantv, and only grow
near the extremity of the branches and it has not had
berries for some time. It grows on Grass in a part of the
garden which was formerly an orchard. It has been pro¬
posed to pollard it, but l*fore doing so I am anxious to
near of any other treatment thought to be more advan¬
tageous.— Celt.

124GG.-Small glass fernery.— Would one of y our
readers give me a few' hints on making a rmall glass
fernery with a self-acting fountain in it? Could I obtain
a book on the subject? What Ferns would be most
suitable ?-W. II. II.

12467.—British fungi .-Wanted, the most complete
work on British fungi, and pri<k>.—J. W.

124681—Roses —Shall be glad to know the best time
and way to prune Marechal hiel Rose in the epen ground,
the way and time to sew P-ose seed, and the names • f
twelve of the be« R‘ ses i.i cultivation ; also tv elvc c f the
new ones.— Young Flcmst.

560

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 3 , 1885

12469.— Stephanotis culture.—Will some reader
kindly givo the compost which suits, and the general
treatment of the Stephanotis?—A matbur.

12470. —Annuals for cuttlngf.— Will someone kindly
give a list of herbaceous plants and annuals having white
or light-coloured flowers suitable for cutting for bouquets,
etc.?—N ovice.

[The following queries arc shortly answered by the Editor,
but readers are invited to give further an fivers should they
be able to offer additional adriqe on the various subjects.
Conditions, soils, and means vary so infinitely that
several answers to the same question may often be very
useful.

12471.—Hardy flowers for towns.—I am fond of
Anemones,but fear that in the north of London I can hardly
expect to grow such kinds os fulgens ; but should bo very
glad if someono would tell me whether I may, within four
miles of Charing Cross, succeed with Anemone japonica
alba. If in the spring I buy some roots, through the
parcels poet, will they bloom in the autumn of same year?
Iris alata succeeded in a pot in a very slightly heated green¬
house, and will it flower in December or January? —
Anemone.

[// you get good strong plants of A. japonica they icould
probably flower next autumn. Plant them in fresh loamy
soil, not in the ordinary patty soil of a town garden ; get a
barrowload from a florist. Iris alata will succeed and
dower in a pot, but don't give it heat;it only needs protec •
tion, not heat.— Ed.]

12472.—American Blackberry.—I sec this reputed
as something differing from and superior to the English
Blackberry. Can anyone tell me whether it is a different
plant, and if so where cm it bo got?—W. M. C., Clapton.

[ The A merican Blackberry only differs from our common
sort in being more, productive, and the fruit being larger,
better flavoured. There is a long list of sorts now cultivated
by Americans, who have developed quite a trade in themof
late years. We intend to allude to this subject at some
future date.—E d. 1

12473.— Hollies not berrying?.— Would you be good
enough to say the reason why Hollies berry in some locali¬
ties, not at all in others? Are Hollies like Yew trees, male
and female ? Former here produce annually, pollen freely,
latter berries as freely within gunshot of each other. We
have male and female Aucuba japonica growing together
without ever a berry, and have procured and planted
Hollies all laden with berries, but in pure country air, with
abundonceTof bees, never afterwards berry'. How is this?
A Scotch Scbscriuer.

[The productiveness of Hollies much depends on the
locality and the condition of the weather at the time the
bushes are in flower. If frosts injure the flowers there will
be a scarcity of berries, but if mild at the time a good berry
crop is generally the result. The trees are often of one sex
only, but as a rule have male and female flowers.— Ed.]
12474.— Frosting everg?reens.— Can anyonetcllme
how to frost evergreens with alum for decorating pur¬
poses ?—F. M. C. E.

[Dip the branches in a weak solution consisting of equal
parts of gum arabic and gum tragacanth combined^ then
sprinkling them with powdered alum before the gum isdi-y.
-Ed]

1247f> —Good Mushroom spawn.—Would the
writer who tells us in Gardenino of the excellent Mushroom
spawn that he always got from some source near London
also tell us what that source is, so that I and others may get
some from the same place, as we have reason to complain
of the quality of the spawn supplied elsewhere ?—T. Rider.

[Any good nurseryman should be able to supply the. best
spawn, but by way of supplementing swh sujrply it is
worth while sometimes to make a little for yoursef. Mill
Track Mushroom s]*awn is very popular among gardeners,
and it may be bought at Cutback's in Highgate. The French
form is quite different in texture, is considered very good,
and is sold in little boxes by Messrs. Vilmorin, of I’aris.
There is also an excellent spawn grown by Mr. Baxter,
Lanwfield Street, Harrow Food, who makes his own.— Ed.]
12470— Red spider on Pansies.— Nearly all my
Pansy cuttings in frames arc in a sickly condition, and I
fear will not survive should the winter prove sovero. They
are infested by what appears to bo rod spider. Would
some of your readers kindly point out a cure ? I thought
of watering with soap-suds, but am afraid of damp at this
late period of the year. How would Tobacco powder do ?
—J. B.

[If badly infested we fear there is not much hope for
your Pansies. Try a strong fumigation of Tobacco.
Water would be the remedy in summer, but, as you observe,
it icould not do in mid-winter. You have probably given
too much dry heat. — Ed.]

12477 —Roses in pots.—Some time ago I purchased a
few Hybrid Perpetual and Tea-scented Roses in pots, and
would feel obliged for a few hints on their cultivation. The
Boil they are in at present is very hard and dry. Is a cool
greenhouse a suitable place for them ?—J. D.

[Sec page 562 in present issue .—Ed.]

Headers whose fptestions art not answered are requested to
repeat them.

OBITUARY.

MR. C. W. SHAW.

W e have to announce with great regret the
death of Mr. Shaw, editor of Gardening
Illustrated, which took place on Monday
morning, the 22ad ult., after a long and patient
struggle with consumption. Mr. Shaw began his
gardening career at Lord Hatherton’s garden at
Teddlesley Park, and afterwards added to his
experience in some of the best gardens, including
those of Sherborne, Hatfield, Netley Castle, and
Cobham Park. Some ten years ago he joined
the stall of The Garden , in the BPrvice of which
h) made a thorough study of the London market
girdens and other gardens about London.
From the second ntiniber of Gardening he took
charge c*f it, and ijjow^jalljfr 4 he ^jV'1t|w&a done in

has been widely felt. He died young—in his
thirty-sixth year. We have never met a man so
young who had so varied a store of practical in¬
formation on vegetable and fruit culture— a store
very much added to by a steady stream of useful
knowledge passing through Gardening, which
he used to say was quite different from, and in
various ways more instructive than, what is sent
to the papers that represent the high-class
gardeners practice. He was at work cheerfully
till within three days of his death. He has left
a widow and one child to mourn his loss, and
many warm friends w 7 ho regret his early death.
Mr. Shaw was buried at Wandsworth Cemetery
on Saturday morning last. In a future number
we hope to publish a portrait of Mr. Shaw—the
only one that had been taken of him.

Men Requisites,

Two Prize Medals.

Quality, THE BEST in the Market.

All sackB included.

PEA 1‘, best brown fibrous .. 4s. 6d. per sack; 5 sacks 'or 20s.
PEAT, beat black fibrous .. 3s. 6d. „ 5 sacks for 15s.

PEAT, extra selected Orchid 5s. Od. „

IX)AM, best yellow fibrous .. )

PREPARED COMPOST, best (i a nprWl Included!
LEAF MOULD, best only... fbi-Perbush.(sacksIncluded).

PEAT MOULD.)

SILVER SAND, coarse, Is. 3d. per bush., 12s. half-ton, 22s. ton.
RAFFIA FIBRE, best only, 8d. per lb..

TOBACCO CLOTH, finest imported. Ski lb , 28 lb 18s.
TOBACCO PAPER ditto (Specialite), 8d. lb., 28 lb. 18a.
MUSHROOM SPAWN, finest Miiltrack, 5s. i»er bushel.
SPHAGNUM MOSS, all selected, 2s. j«r bush., 6s. per sack.

COCOA-NUT FIBRE REFUSE

(By Chubb's special process), sacks, Is. each ; 10 sacks, 9s.
15 sacks, 13s.; 20 sacks, 17s.; 30 sacks. 25s. ; 40 sacks, 30s.
Truck-load, loose, free on rail, 30s. Limited quantities of G,
special quality, granulated, in tacks only, 2s. each. Terms,
strictly Cash with order.

CHUBB, ROUND, and CO.,

Wegt Ferry Road, Mlllwall , London, E._

GARDEN REQUISITES.

fJOCOA-NUT FIBRE REFUSE, la. 3d. pel

Lr bag; 10 bags for 12s.; 30 for 80s.; truck load, freo od
rail, 30s.: Best Brown Fibrous Peat, 5e. per sack, 5 for 22s. 6d.:
Black Fibrous Peat, 4s. Gd. per sack, 5 for 20s.; Coarse Silvw
Sand, Is. 6d. per bushel; Yellow Fibrous Loam, Leaf, and
Peat Mould, Is. per bush. Potting and Bulb Composts, Is. 4d
por bush.; 5s. per sack. Russia Mats of every description.
Artificial manures. Garden 8ticks and Labels. TobaccoClotb
and Paper.—Write for price list.—W. E. WARD A OO., Union
Chambers, Wormwood Street, London. E C._

A S SUPPLIED TO THE ROYAL GARDENS,

the leading Gentry, and Florists of the United Kingdom,
Cocoa-nut Fibre Refuse, beet only. Is. 6d. per fsc :; 10 for 13s.;
15 for 18s.; 20 for 22s. ; 30 for 30s., sacks included. Truok.
containing more than two tons, free on rail. S3n. Selected
Brown Fibrous Peat, 5s. per sack ; 5 for 22s. 6*1. Black Poat
4a. 6d. per sack; 5 for 20e. Coarse Bilver Sand, Is. 6d. pci
bushel; 14s. half ton; 25s. per ton. Yellow Fibrous Loam
Leaf Mould, and Pe*t Mould, each at Is. por bushel
Backs and Bags 4d. each. Fresh Sphagnum, 8s. 6d. po
sack. Manures, Garden Sticks, Labels, Virgin Cork, Russian
Mats, Raffia, Prepared Compost, Fertiliser, Ac. Best
TOBACCO CLOTH, 8d. por lb.; 28 lb., 18s. 8PKCIALITF
Tobacco Paper, lOd. per Id. j 28 lb. 21s. Price List on applies
tion.—W. HERBERT & CO., 2, Hop Exchange Warehouses.
Southwark Btreet. London B E. (late 19. N-w Broad Ktroct).

GARDEN REQUISITES,

At Reduced Prloes.

pOCOANUT FIBRE REFUSE, 4 bushel sask,

Is. 3d., 10 sacks, 11s., sacks free ; truck load, free on rail,
30s.; best brown fibrous peat, 6s. per sack, 5 for 21s.; black
fibrous peat, 4s. 6d. per sock, 5 for 18s. 6d.; coarse silvor sand,
Is. 3d. bushel, 13s. |-ton ; yellow fibrous loam, leaf and peat
mould. Is. bushel; potting and bulb composts. Is. 3*1. per
bushel, 4s. 6cL sack—sacks, 4d. each; Russia mats, manures,
garden stloks, and labels, virgin Cork, Tobacco cloth and paper.
Best imported. Write for free price list.—W. WARREN
A CO .. 8. WhitecroHs Place, Wilson Street. City.

PATENT GAS CONSERVATORY BOILERS

A from 35s. ; hot-water apparatus for gas from 50s. ; hot-
water apparatus for oil, from 25s. 6d.—O. SHREWSBURY
122. Newgate Rtreet. E V. _

T O THE DELICATE.—Do not shiver with

cold this winter, but use one of NORMAN'S HEATING
STOVES, and have warmth and oomfort inono minute; they
can be used in any part of the houso, bodroom, pantry, con¬
servatory, Ac. Sent carriage paid to all parts of the country
on reooipt of Postal Order for 4s,—Address Mr. THOS.
NORMAN, 76, Liverpool Road. London, N. N.B.—These
Stoves are splendid for conservatories.

C. FRAZER,

Horticultural Builder, Norwich.

pffcEENHOUSES FOR EVERYBODY.—To

U" all who are about to buy, call and see the Little Gem.
advertised at 70s, at the Alexandra Palaoe Horticultural
Works, bottom of Nightingale-road, Woodgreen, N., where
you can get a greenhouse, from 60s. to ,£600. Write for Ogden
and Co.’s Special Price List, and New Designs for 18S5, post
freo, two stamps. N.B.—Please to note the address, and
beware of imitations._

HATHER Honey from your Flowers. —

VT “THE APIARY,” 5s. (postage 5d.). By Alfred Neigh¬
bour (Geo. Neighbour A Sons, 127, High Holborn, W.C.), 149,
Repent Street, W. Vide advt. in Garden and Oaupkning
from March, ko _ _

These Greenhouses supplied as "Tenants’ Fixtures" (tho
lower part of which is framed and flush panelled), or for
oroction on Brickwork. Constructed of well-seasoned Red
Doal. All parts carefully fitted and plainly marked. »o that
any handy man can easily erect them. Made in lights, glazed
with 2Toz. glass, and painted three coats of good oil colour.

Tenants’ Fixtures. For Brickwork.

12 ft. by 8 ft. .. £25 3s. Od. .. £17 15s. Od.

15 ft. by 10 ft. .. £31 7s. Od. .. £83 7s. Od.

30 ft. by 12 ft. £51 15s. Od. .. £43 5s. Od.

rhree-quarter Garden Frame, with new (registered) Sot-opes
*nd Corner Fastenings. Made of good Rea Deal, sides and
.*nd3 1$ inches thick, lights 2 inches thick. Qlazed with
21-oz. glass, and painted 4 coats of good oil colour. No. 1
sire, 4 ft. by 6 ft, £2 17s. No. 2 size, 8 ft. by 6 ft., £4 10a.
So. 3 size. 12 ft. by 6 ft., £6 5s. «d. Packing cases from 4s. to
'is. 6d. Two-thirds allowed when returned

the interest of thoi

appealed

YARDS RABBIT NET, 12 mesh wide,

post freo, 7s. 3d.; 60 yards Rabbit Not, 18 mosh wide,
post freo, 15s. 6d.; 12 Rabbit ferreting Nets, post free. Gs. Gd. ;
Batfolding Net, on bamboo poles, 18 foot long, complete, 20a.;
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GARDENING ILLUSTRATED.

Vol. VI.

JANUARY 10, 1885.

No. 305.

FRUIT.

GRAPE CULTURE.

the middle of each from 4 inches to 5 incheB long, injury, the balls should be carefully turned out
taking a thin piece of wood off with the bark— of the pots and thoroughly soaked in tepid
the two cuts to be placed together, securely water, this rendering the separation an easy

' bound, and coated over with wax or not, accord- matter—any bruised or unhealthy roots must

TBBkmd of (Irapc generally grown by amateurs ing to the desire of the operator. We use that be cut away above the unsound part, as this
u the Black Hamburgh, and perhaps no other known as Lefort’s Mastic, and this is kept in facilitates healing. As before advised, the
ander indifferent culture constantly produces stock by most seedsmen. It is easily spread border ought not to be allowed to become
each crops of fairly good fruit, while there are with a smooth flat pieco of wood, but if at all saturated. In planting do not make deep holes
few superior to it when well grown. At the stiff’ it should be warmed prior to use. The for the roots, as these will strike downwards
same time I maintain that far too many vines of lower half of the graft in bottle-grafting is only too quickly, but the roots should be spread
it have been planted, not only in vineries con- inserted in a suspended bottle of water, this out to their full length in one or even two layers
necteu with small gardens^but also in very mauy serving to partially support the graft till such if need be, and each be carefully mixed with a
^ r £ e gardens. For forcing it is invaluable, time as the union with the stock is complete, little good and rather fine compost. Water
though not much more so than Madresfiold say when the shoot from the former is half-way ought to be given at once if the border is at all
Court; but why grow so many for the main or up the house. Inarching is another simple and dry, and a mulching of straw litter, which,
only crop, as the case may be, seeing that they rarely failing method of changing the variety, however, in the early part of the year is recoin-
npen at a time when other fruits arc plentiful, Any nurseryman can supply a medium-sized mended for a night covering, and may well be
and when nothing but the very best samples pot vine of the sort or sorts required, which raked oft’ during sunny days. The canes are
realise in the market more than from Is 61, to may be joined to the established vines in much usually taken through openings in the front
-*• per lb. ? Better by far grow more of tho tho same manner and same time as recommended wall directly under the sill, and this can best
valuable lato-keeping Grapes, such as Muscat of for bottle-grafting. The strongest bud nearest be done before the roots are covered. Thty
Alexandria, Black Alicante, Lady Downes, and the graft beyond tho point of union should be should not be staked up till after they ha^e
Gros Maroc.^ With the latter I have not had encouraged to grow, those beyond being rubbed broken evenly. If strong, say about 11 inches
much experience, but if Mr. Coleman, after out, while those below the union ought to in circumference, and supposing they were
having grown it for a comparatively long time, be thinned out and kept rather closely stopped, planted in the autumn or not later than January,
consulers it of easy culture and in every respect The graft will be still supported by the parent they may be shortened to where they reach tho
a desirable late sort, no stronger testimony in pot vine till the autumn, when it may be severed trellis, but later on they are certain to bleed if
its favour can well be given. Mrs. Pince’s just below the union. Supposing there is pruned and will be much weakened thereby;
Muscat, though a good late Grape when well another rod or vine near to be inarched, or if consequently disbudding in this case is much
grown, is scarcely to be recommended to amateurs, there is any doubt about the success of the first the safest method of shortening to the desired
Neither is Gros Colmar, which requires very attempt, a shoot should be encouraged to grow length. What are generally sold as planting
superior culture to bring it to perfection. Ain- from near the base of tho pot vine, and this canes are seldom strong enough to be laid in or
wick Seedling is a noble Grape, but it is a bad when of good size and strength can be inarched retained to the height of the trellis. Any below
setter, and does Dot keep so well as any of the or united to another growing shoot of nearly the size above given should either be pruned or
foregoing. The first mentioned four sorts are tho same size on the intended stock. In IhiB disbudded to the lowest point where sufficient
cot so difficult to grow as some people imagine, case of inarching with growing wood all that is light will reach the youDg shoots to ensure the
They certainly require a longer season to ripen necessary is to cut slices to correspond from desired healthy leaf growth. An ordinary
in, but in other respects, I shall endeavour both stock and graft and to bind the two greenhouse temperature should be maintained
to show, their culture is simple enough. With wounds neatly together. Those young vines till the vines have well burated their buds, and
Grapes, as with other fruits, it is of the greatest we intend to inarch on to strong old vines arc later on it should be raised in order to encourage
importance that a prolonged supply bo main- now being struck from eyes, and will be fit for an early maturity. With regard to the dis¬
abled rather than ruinous gluts, and those who the purpose about the middle of June. In all tances apart, I should recommend that they be
have only one house to depend upon should and every case, supposing tho shoot from the disposed not less than 4 feet apart, or one to each
select varieties that will ensure a succession, graft or new sort introduced is allowed to rafter. It is true they are often more thickly
Therefore, in addition to the very late Grapes, extend, the shoots on the stock being kept planted, but it is a bad practice all the same,

I would grow one or two rather earlier sorts, within bounds, strong fruiting rods of the full especially if plants are to be grown underneath,
such as Madresfield Court and Foster’s Seedling, length of the roof ought to be obtained. These in order to have Grapes without cropping, and
noth of which are improved in quality if rather may then replace the old rods, which, to pre- thereby greatly weakening the permanent vines,
more heat than suits the Black Hamburgh be vent excessive bleeding, ought to be sawn off as it is the general practice to plant other vines
given them. soon as the crop is secured. midway between them. These are termed

Changing varieties.-— It is an easy, and, as I Time and methods for planting.— AH the “ supernumeraries,” and are heavily cropped
have pointed out, a desirable matter to change principal nurserymen supply vines suitable for for one, or perhaps two seasons, and then
established sorts, especially if they possess planting in any position, and the extraordinary cleared out.

sufficient vigour, as in the case of the Black number of these annually sold is evidence that Raising vines from eyes. —Vines are very
Hamburgh,, to form suitable stocks for choicer the number of Grape growers is increasing. By easily raised from eyes and cuttings selected
kinds. This may bo effected without the loss far the greater number are bought by the pro- from ripened growth, and may the same season bo
of a crop either by grafting or inarching, the prietors of comparatively small gardens, as ac- grown into strong fruiting canes, or, if planted,
former being performed when the sap is rising, cording to my experience gardeners in charge will perfect hard and almost pithless rods of the

former being performed when the sap is rising, cording to my experience gardeners in charge will perfect hard and almost pithless rods of the
and the latter at the same time or during the of larger places prefer to raise their own vines length of the house. January is the month pre-
summer. . W hen we proceeded to change the from eyes or cuttings, and to plant these when ferred for putting them in, and failures very
varieties in our own, as well as a neighbour’s growing strongly—but then the borders are rarely occur. An eye consists of a single bud
vinery, we tried four different methods, and mostly wholly inside, or the vines are with nearly an inch of wood above and below,
were successful in each case. At pruning time planted inside, the roots having free access with the ends cleanly cut and a thin slice taken
a strong lateral was reserved near the bottom to an outside border. I have successfully off the under side. A cutting may consist of
of each rod, and on these we tried grafting, established young growing vines in an outside two or more buds—I might say any number up
bottle-grafting, and inarching the ripened wood border, but, as a rule, the change from a warm to a dozen ; neither does it much matter if they
as w’e 11 as the growing shoots later on. Graft- house to a cold border greatly checks root action, be cut to a joint. The eyes or short cuttings
ing is best performed when the stock has made and this, in its turn, so affects the top growth may either be bedded in singly in small inverted
some progress, the bud of the graft or scion being, that the vines do not always recover the same turves or in 4-inch pots of good soil, the buds
however, still dormant. The scion consists of season. Besides, there is a difficulty in bringing only of the former showing above the surface,
a single bud, with an inch of wood above and the tender growth through the small openings and they should be surrounded with silver sand,
below it; a slice is cut away from the lower generally made for this purpose. For planting If larger cuttings are preferred, 5-inch or still
half an da notch made, both of which fit intoacor- in outside borders especially, I should, there- larger pots should be used. They may be stood
responding slice and notch made in the stock. Itis fore, advise amateurs and others to procure on a bench in a moist growing heat, or, better
advisable in all cases to have the wood of both medium-sized canes which will reach well into still, be plunged in a mild hotbed, the top heat
stock and scion as nearly equal in size as the house at once. They may be planted at any ranging about 60 degs.—those in pots should be
possible, and that they be neatly fitted together, time from the fall of the leaf till the buds are given a shift into 6-inch pots before becoming
Ours were bound up tightly with raffia and bursting into leaf, and not a little depends upon root-bound, and those in turves, which are pre¬
covered with grafting wax, the bud only being this being properly done. To plant the balls of ferable for planting, should have all protruding
uncovered, and this is supported and encouraged roots and soil intact or as turned out of the pots roots severed. The youDg vines should be
to push by the action of the leaves on the is about the worst proceeding possible, as the staked and kept tied up, and when about 3 feet
growth, which must always be reserved on the chances are that the roots will not properly high are lit for planting. Tho border, being
stock beyond the point of union. Bottle-graft* spread into the soil of the border, and even if inside, is not generally cold, especially if much
ing is a simple and more certain process than they do the coiled-up state of the principal roots fresh turf has neen employed in its composition,
ordinary grafting. We find it is best performed will always militate against the desirable free Rather, however, than risk giving the roots a
just when the buds on the intended stock are action of the sap. Any permanent vines thus chill, I should advise that they bo Btood on the
bursting, the graft being still dormant. The planted this season ought at once to be lifted border for a few days prior to being finally
graft and Btock ought each to be about 1 foot and replanted, no matter how forward the planted, the temperature of the house being kept
long, and after being fitted together ilnd growth may be. In order to soparate the roots up to 60 legs, by night, and 6^ degs. or.70 degs.
marked, a clean slice shofcld MPbnt from the soil without their sustaining any by day. They must not be allowed to suffer

^ 5 URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[ [Jan. 10, \Sb5,

562

from dryness at the roots, but a very moist
atmosphere with a high temperature induces the
formation of thin warty leaves and injuriously
affects the growth of wood and roots. White
Grapes, notably the Muscat of Alexandria, ought
to be planted at the Bunniest end of the house,
and if any are grown on the back walls they
should be black varieties. W. I. M.

Mrs. Plnoe’s Muscat Grape.— There is
a feeling abroad that this is a difficult Grape to
manage in more points than one. It is evidently
looked upon as a bad setter and but an indif¬
ferent bearer. Such is not my experience of it;
on the contrary it is a vigorous grower, a good
bearer, and sits as well as any other Muscat,
producing long well-shouldered bunches. The
only fault 1 have to find with it is that the
colour on the berries comes and goes. It retains
a good colour up to the end of November, and
then it gradually loses it again, when its ap¬
pearance is not good ; but its excellent keeping
qualities, which enable the grower to send it to
table in good oondition through February and
March, are a good set-off against want of colour.
11 takes fully three weeks longer to ripen than the
Muscat of Alexandria or Lady Downes, a fact
testified by the persistent way in which it re¬
tains its leaves, as it is always the last to lose

cultivators do. Looking at the natural condi¬
tions under which vines are grown, I am a firm
believer in the strengthening influence of fresh
air, and shape my course accordingly. I am
also a believer in judicious cropping. I have
seen such ill effects from an opposite course that
I prefer to see a regular crop every year to a
heavy one this year and a poor one the next.
Our vine of Mrs. Pince I allow to carry one
large bunch to about every 18 inches of rafter.
It has done so for the past twelve years, and
the last season’s bunches were equal to those of
any previous year. —J. C. C.

PRESERVING GRAPES IN BOTTLES.

These cuts show the earliest attempts at placing
vine shoots bearing fruit in water to preserve
and store the fruit instead of allowing it to hang
on the vines. It was a great advantage to all
growers, and especially to those who wished to
use their houses in autumn for the storing of
flower-garden and other plants. Bottling
Grapes, as it was called, was laughed at a good
deal at first at the time of its introduction, but
now it is adapted almost everywhere and by
the best growers. There are various simple
modifications of the plan, and some have even
patented racks for the purpose ; but all that is

doubt they go to fields and pastures new ; but,
in my case, unless they assisted their friends on /.
the unprotected trees, my plan must have ex-
terminated them, as I did not find their atten¬
tion had been directed to any others of my trees
or plants —W. S. J., Bach Lancs.

The Wyedale Plum. —We believe, says the
I Florist and Pomologist t that this variety of Plum
is but little known, but its excellence as a late £
ripening sort would render it valuable as an ^
addition to any collection. It was, we are in-
| formed, introduced to cultivation from York¬
shire by Messrs. Rivers and Son. We have seen 2 *^
it growing in Mr. Lane’s orchard at Great Berk- ,,v
hamstead, but for the following information we
are indebted to Mr. Bunyard, of Maidstone. Of
a diffuse style of growth, and with rather Blender * .
shoots, the Wyedale Plum is not unlike Rivers'
Prolific in its habit, forming for the most part ^ 1
short-jointed wood with a few shoots, running >
out to a considerable length ; it is not, however, to
be regarded as a robust grower. The leaves are
rather small and of thin texture. One of the -j
great merits of this Plum is that it is a good w
bearer, and another is that it ripens its fruit ;i> _
very late in the autumn—in October and
November, Mr. Bunyard informs us that he
has gathered fruit as late as November 9. The
tree is a fair cropper when allowed to grow
naturally, but when root pruned and grown as

Stand for preserving Grapes (front view).

Stand for preserving Grapes (tide view).

them. In my practice I do not treat it in any necessary is any kind of bottle firmly held
way different from other late sorts until the in a rack and placed at an angle. Old soda
ripening period, and then I keep that end of the water bottles do admirably.

house in which it is growing warmer than the | _

other, and this treatment continues for a fort¬
night or three weeks after I consider the Muscat Green grub on Gooseberry and Red
of Alexandria to be ripe. Even Lady Downes Currant trees. — Last summer, finding certain
is fit for bottling before it, and I find it is better Gooseberry and Red Currant trees less affected
to cut the branches of Lady Downes and put by these troublesome pests caused me to notice
them in bottles than to expose them to the high ' that the Gooseberries that were next to a Black
temperature which Mrs. Pince requires to ripen j Currant were but slightly affected, and the
it properly. Our vine of Mrs. Pince is growing Black Currant not at all. This induced me (but
in a house in which Lady Downes and the Muscat unfortunately not until it was too late to save
of Alexandria are grown. The rafters are the fruit) to try the effect of planting a twig of
about 20 feet long ana 4 feet 6 inches apart, one the Black Currant in the centre of each tree I
rod being run up each rafter. The roots have found affected, leaving some few (for the sake
ossession of both an inside and an outside of the experiment) to the ravages of the grub,
•order. We make it a rule to give a little fire- In every instance they forsook the tree thus
heat to the house after the 1st of March, so as protected, which soon showed new life, com-
to keep the temperature up to 60 degs. both mencing to make fresh foliage and young shoots,
night and day, increasing the heat as the season while those not so treated were completely
advances. While the Grapes are in bloom my stripped of all leaves and tender Bhoots, and,
temperature for Muscats is 6>5 degs. at night and although loaded with fruit, not a vestige of a
75 degs. during the day by means of fire-heat, leaf could be seen ; consequently, the fruit soon
but these figures, it must be understood, repre- withered and died. The Black Carrant, as
sent the minimum ; the day temperature varies your readers are aware, throws out a very strong
from 75 degs. to 90 degs. and 9.5 degs., according and agreeable perfume, especially in the spring,
to the state of the weather. To set the Muscats and will retain the same for several weeks after
simply draw a warm hand down the bunch ( the sprig is inserted in the ground. It is to
about twioe a day when they are in bloom, and this, I think, the grub objects. At any rate, it

l

a pyramid it bears much more freely. It is
also stated to be quite worthy of a north wall.
Fruit medium size, roundish oblong, very dark,
dull reddish purple, with a thin bloom ; stalk
about half an inch long, set in a small but
deepish basin, from which a shallow indistinct
suture extends to the apex where the fruit is
slightly depressed ; flesh yellowish or deep
straw colour, transpirent, veiny, parting freely
from the stone ; flavour somewhat austere when
raw, but excellent when cooked, with a slight
suspicion of roughness. For oooking, indeed,
there are few Plums which are equal in quality
to the Wyedale.

Peach culture.— The secret in growing
Peaches is to keep them thin of wood and clear
of insects. Our plan of killing green fly is is
follows : Immediately we see the fly in spring
we completely cover the young leaves with
Tobacco powder, blowing it from an india-
rubber bottle well in amongst the young shoots.
This we allow to stop on for twenty-four hours,
and then with soft water we syringe the To¬
bacco powder entirely off, taking care that this
is done before we disbud the trees. Disbudding
too early starves the young fruit, while a cover¬
ing of healthy green leaves greatly improves it.
On one half of the wall we fix glass lights 3 feet
wide, thus forming a glass coping. To these
lights we affix old fish net. The other half is

■In.r—r,^ * m-. ... QQ gU*S

never dis-

I never fail in getting a good set ; bnt I believe is a very easy and effectual way of getting rid simply covered With netting witl
I givo more air to JGfs^pes than the majority of of this very troublesome visitor. I have no coping, and, truth to telLl have

Digitized by t -.Qi 0 |P um " r VT TLU ^ UIS *

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jaw. 10, 188.5]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

£C3

cerned one bit of difference between the two.
We have seldom any blistered leaves through
cold winds, and never any twisted shoots
occasioned by green fly. We syringe the trees
three times a week with soft water—a great
preventive of insect pests. In fact, our Peaches
are the most satisfactory wall crop which we
grow.— R. Gilbert.

12410.—Bullfinches attacking Goose¬
berry bushes — Coarse black thread
stretched about the branches will generally have
the effect of keeping off the birds. I saw the
benefit of this plan exemplified last spring by
the bushes in a garden, most of which had been
twisted with black thread, and the remainder,
a few rows, left unprotected ; these latter had
scarcely a shoot upon them, and looked half
dead, owing to the destruction of the buds, while
those protected by the thread had a good crop
of fruit. 1 do not say this is an infallible
method of protection, as familiarity breeds con
tempt ; the enemy will occasionally renew their
attack, notwithstanding the thread, but it will
generally make the difference between a crop
and none at all.— K. , Southend.

1243*2.— Neglected fruit trees.— It is
better to let the trees alone, so that they may
grow in their own way, than to prune them as
some people do. Those alluded to in this ques¬
tion will not have suffered much injury. All
the pruning they need is to thin out the wood
where it is too thick. If the Apples, Pears,
Plums, and Cherries have made good growths
they will not require any manure just now. If
the blossoms set well, and there is a prospect of
a good crop, they can be manured in the sum¬
mer. The Currants, Gooseberries, and Rasp¬
berries may be well manured ; they are always
ready for a supply of rich food. The wood of
these small fruits should be well thinned out,
especially in the centre of the bushes.—J. D. E.

12400. — Strawberries.—I would recom¬
mend Mrs. Booth to have her Strawberry
bed trenched just now, and in the beginning of
March fork in a good quantity of stable dung,
then plant it with such approved kinds as Pre¬
sident, Garibaldi, or Sir Joseph Paxton, in rows
one foot apart each way. By allowing every
second row to fruit she will have a good supply
of Strawberries ; and in autumn she should dig
down every row that has fruited, when the plants
will be left in at their proper distance, viz. : —
2feet from row to row, and 1 foot from plant to
plant.—G. F.

- If good Strawberries are wanted in the

season it will not do to trust to a bed that has
been neglected for years. The only thing to do
with advantage to such a bed now would be to
give it a dressing of guano or fish manure ; it
would be washed in by the rains. Some runners
should be prepared to plant out on a piece of
ground in August. If they are rooted into small
pots early in July, and planted out as soon as
they are ready, a good crop of fruit will be pro¬
duced the following season. The ground where
they are planted ought to be deeply trenched
and well manured.—J. D. E.

- All that can be done now is to clean out all weeds,

and ketp the bed free from them during the growing time.
Strawberries will bear fairly well even when thickly
planted, but the fruit naturally does not come so fine and
sweet as wheu tach plant gets the light and air it needs.—
J. C. B.

123,4 —Applying liquid manure In winter.—

Liquid manure may be given at any time in winter to fruit
trees, not pouring any great quantity in ono place but dit-
t ibuting it over the surface of the soil. Gross feeding
climber*, such as Clematise?, are much benefited thereby,
as when some time established they txhaust the soil, which
a winter dressing renders fertile by the time they 6tart
into growth again—J, C. B.

12441.— Filling orchard house. — Peaches and
Nectarines may be planted against the back wall. The
body of the bouse may be furnished with pyramids in pots.
Plums succeed well with Peaches and Nectarines.
Apricots do not seem to fruit well under the same con¬
ditions. The hardier Palma and sub tropical plants will
do nicely ; but Azaleas are in flower when the trees require
syringing, and the treatment required by the one disagrees
with the other.—J. D. E.

12429. — Old vines versus young ones.—If the
young vines are established in the border it will be better
to let them remain. 1 would advise that the old canes be
fruited in the pots in which they are growing.—J. D. E.

12420 .—Quinces.— They maybe raisod from seeds, but
that is a very slow way to obtain trees. Far better order
a tree of the pear shaped variety from any respectable
nurserjman ; or. If there is room for two, plant one of
the Portugal. The fruit of the latter is the best for
marmalade, but the tree does not bear so freely as the
Pear-shaped kind. Thera is also an Anple-shapcd Quince,
the fruit of which is esteemed in the culinary depart
ment.— J. D. E.

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Google

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

ANNUAL AND PERENNIAL COREOPSIS.
The kinds of Coreopsis in gardens are numerous.
Many of the annual varieties make exceedingly
. useful border plants. They may be cultivated
with a fair amount of success in ordinary garden
I ground, but where the soil is naturally deep,
light, and rich they become wonderfully increased
in vigour, and this, with a corresponding size of
flower and richness of colour, will hardly fail to
secure for them a first place in a mixed border.
The seed should be sown in April in patches
very slightly covered with fine soil, and when
the young plants are large enough to handle they
should be thinned out in the usual way. The
name Calliopsia has been and still is generally
applied to the annual species, but strictly they
belong to Coreopsis.

C. tinctoria and its varieties, C. Drummondi,
C. Atkinsoniana, and C. filifolia may be taken
as amongst the beBt and showiest of the annual

Flowers of Coreopsis lanceolata (yellow),

sorts. The richness of colour in the varieties of
C. tinctoria, among which are atro-purpurea,
bicolour, and tricolour, eminently fits them for a

S lace in every garden. C. filifolia is a large-
owered and very handsome plant; its blossoms
are rarely less than 2 inches in diameter and
bright yellow, with a prominent reddish-purple
disc. It is a native of Texas, and flowers from
July until the end of September.

Of the perennial species at present cultivated
perhaps not more than four or five are really
useful plants, and these, from their permanent
character and free flowering habit, are best suited
for the flower garden or rockery. C. senifolia,
found in sandy woods in Virginia, is an extremely
useful rock plant, the more so as it grows and
flowers freely in intensely shaded places. It
grows abont 2 feet in height. It has deeply cut
three-parted leaves and spreading segments,
which appear as if there was a whorl of six leaves
at every joint, variable in breadth, and more or
less hairy. It prodnees pretty star-like yellow
flowers, with dark discs, all through the autumn
months. A variety called C. s tel lata has much
broader, glabrons leaves, and bears a corymb of
large, bright, yellow, very attractive flowers. C.

lanceolata, of which the annexed woodent 1 b a
much reduced representation, Is amongst tho
best and showiest of all onr late autumn flower¬
ing plants. It is found on mountainous situa¬
tions in Virginia and Carolina, and except in
extremely favourable positions seldom attains
more than 2 feet in height. It prefers a light
rich soil, rather dry th&n otherwise, and is there¬
fore very suitable for sloping banks or the summit
of rockeries ; the leaves are opposite and broadly
lance-shaped ; the flowers, which are large, are
of a beautiful rich golden colour, and produced
abundantly from J uly until October ; they are
also very useful for cutting, as they last for a
considerable period in water. It is easily pro¬
pagated by division of the roots. C. rosea (rose-
flowered Tickseed) is a pretty dwarf species with
narrow opposite leaves ; the flowers, produced
in heads, have bright rose-coloured rays, which
contrast strikingly with the dark yellow disc.
This plant thrives best in natural or artificial
bogs or swamps, and is very suitable for plant¬
ing on the margins of lakes or other ornamental
water. SeedB of the annual kinds may be sown
in the open border in April, and the perennial
species may be procured and planted out in good
soil auy time from March till the end of April,
but autumn planting is the best.—K.

HOW TO PROPAGATE THE DAHLIA.
Those nurserymen who deal largely in Dahlias,
and who have to maintain a very large stock of
the leadbg varieties, usually make ueo of a
propagating house, which is heated with hot-
water pipes for this purpose. By this arrange¬
ment Dahlias can be multiplied with great
rapidity. A bed of suitable soil is made up iu
February, and on this the ground roots kept
with safety through the winter are placed, and
nearly, but not quite, buried in the soil, leaving
the neck of the plant fully exposed. Young
growths issue from the neck, and when theso
are 4 inches or so in length they are taken off
just below a joint, a few put into a 3 inch or
4-inch pot, and then placed in a hotbed where
there is a brisk moist heat. There they soon
root, and they are then potted off singly into
2$ inch pots, kept quite close until established,
and finally hardened off until they can bear
exposure iu a cold frame, but kept well pro¬
tected from harm from frost. A great many
Dahlias are sent out from nurseries in April
and May in 2| inch pots; they can be laid down
on their sides in square hampers. Packed with
soft Moss as firmly as possible, plants will travel
a considerable distance without sustaining any
injury. As soon as the plants are received they
should te carefully unpacked, stood in a cold
frame, sprinkled overhead with water, and the
frame kept close and shaded from the &un for
two or three days.

For ordinary propagation a hotbed should bo
prepared the first week in March, carefully
avoiding a strong heat. A moderate warmth,
averaging about 60 degs., will be found suffi¬
cient. As soon as the bed is made a frame
should be placed over it, and 6 inches of suit¬
able soil laid over it. In a few days the roots
kept from the previous year may be placed in
the soil, taking care not to cover the crowns. A
little air should be given iu the morning to allow
the steam to pass off, but cover up close at
night. When the roots have put forth shoots
3 inches to 4 inches long they should be taken
off as near the crown as possible without injury,
and be inserted in small pots filled with light
sandy soil. Then the pots should be plunged
in a hotbed in a temperature of about 70 degs.,
watering, shading, and giving air to keep the
cuttings from damping off. When they are
sufficiently rooted they should be potted singly
in small pots, and placed in a genile heat until
they have made fresh roots. They may then be
removed to a cold frame, and be hardened otfas
the weather will permit.

Where only a few plants of each sort are re¬
quired, they may be increased by dividing the
roots, but this is not so advantageously done as
by means of cuttings. In this case the bed
should not be made till the last week in March
or the beginning of April, in the same way as
already described. The roots should be placed
on the top of the soil. They will soon begin to
show signs of growth, and when the shoots are
abont 4 inches long, the roots may be carefully
taken up, divided, And potted singly into small
pots qf| convenient siae. ^±ey should be placed

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564

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 10, 1885.

in alittle bottom heat till the divided portions have
formed fresh roots, when they may be put into
a cold frame, hardened off gradually, and care¬
fully covered up at night when required.

_ R. D.

PLANTS TO AVOID ON ROCK WORK.

If a rockery be required merely for general
effect, a tangle of some such plants as the more
vigorous Aubrietias, mossy Saxifrages, Veronicas
of the Teucrium section, and numerous other
easily-grown rock plants may be pretty partially
covering the stones, though the grower of alpine
or rock plants will enjoy the sight more if he is
sure that it is not at the same time the grave of
dozens of rare plants. In this case the question
of the survival of the fittest may be left to the
plants themselves to decide. But where the
rockery is intended chiefly for the culture of
choice rock plants (and others needing somewhat
similar treatment) chosen for their beauty,
rarity, or some poiut of special botanical interest,
there must be no such picturesque tangles
admitted, at all events amongst the small grow¬
ing kinds. If a large plant be required here and
therefor effect amongst thesesmall alpine plants,
such kinds should be used as do not spread
quickly, and the ultimate size of which can be
pretty well known beforehand. For instance,
Yuccas can be kept in check by removing their
suckers, and various small plants may be safely
planted almost up to the stem of Cordyline
australis without being injured or over-shaded
by its leaves. Bat, as a general rule, by no means
easy in all cases to carry out, small al pines
should have special parts of the rockery entirely
to themselves. It is not always possible to know
beforehand what plants will grow rapidly in
particular soils. Only experience as to the
habit of each plant can be a safe guide as to its
right place in the rock garden, and most alpine
growers will probably agree that it i3 not a quickly-
learnt lesson. The suggestion that has been
made that names of troublesome plants should
be given from time to time, would be no small
help, though it is sometimes tantalising to read
accounts of the rapid growth of plants in some
soils which no amount of care can induce to
grow well in others. One of the most
dangerous experiments is to plant some
pretty common wild flower of spreading
habit in the deep, well-watered soil of the
rockery. If it grows at all, it usually likes its
quarters far too well. The quaint foliage of
the Marsh Pennywort (Hydrocotylo vulgaris)
tempted me to put a small piece on a damp
part of the rockery three or four years ago ; it is
one of the worst weeds that could well be intro¬
duced, and is not yet exterminated. Campanula
rapunculoides grows with almost equal rapidity
by underground shoots, which is by far the most
troublesome form of rapid growth. Montbrctia
Pottsi smothered several small alpines before
we discovered that it was rather a border than
a rock plant; and Acorus Calamus (the Sweet
Flag) did such mischief in a small bog bed, that
we now limit a specimen of this curious Aroid to
a buried flower pot; but it is a good bog or
water plant where it can have its way. Mossy
Saxifrages and various other plants which
spread over ground do less mischief, because
their increase in size is more quickly noticed.
Still, all such plants are better in parts of the
rock garden at a good distance from small-grow¬
ing things. Ciaytonia sibirica and the double
Cardamine pratensis are far better off the rockery
altogether. C. M. 0.

PLANTS FOR WINTER BEDS.

I think one may venture to name the following
plants as suitable for massing in what may be
termed a winter or spring bed. The fine and
distinct colours of their flowers, the verdancy
of their foliage, contemporaneous blooming, and
long continuation make them of more value than
plants commonly employed for such purposes ;
moreover, they are plautB that are easily culti¬
vated, and that endure repeated transplantings
well. I mean the Doronicums, Cardamine asari-
folia, Scilla sibirica, Iris reticulata, Saxifraga
oppositifolia, Narcissus minor, Anemone fulgens,
Muscari botryoides album, Chionodoxa Luciliae,
Daphne Mezereum, and Erica camea. Numerous
as early flowers are now becoming, it is no easy
matter to select a group possessing qualities
such as these possess, or that will keep bright

Digitized by (jOCK^lC

and fresh-looking under the varying conditions J
of our climate during winter and early spring.
Those who have grown these flowers can testify
to their duration, and the foliage of some, to my
mind, is aB valuable as regards effect in spring
bedding as the bloom. What, for instance, could
be more pleasing than the large, flatly arranged,
pale Apple-green leaves of the Doronicums,
and they never suffer from the severest frosts,
though they are as delicate in appearance as if
they had been grown in a warm glasshouse.
Into such a bed, on account of their blackened
leaves, I w’ould not introduce the otherwise
charming Hepaticas. The Daphne and bulbs
have few or no leaves, on which account I con¬
sider them preferable to plants having sere
foliage either naturally or through damage.
The colours are white, porcelain blue, purple,
pale yellow, orange, scarlet, and rose. By
judicious selection and planting these colours
may be pleasingly blended, and the highest of
the plants in the centre need not be more than
15 inches or 18 inches. All are of the hardiest,
and seem to flower in profusion, even when the
earth is ico-bound. That such hardy flowers
can be more naturally grown in borders, where
they can remain undisturbed, is beyond doubt;
but while beds are formed in the more con¬
spicuous parts of our gardens—and it is the
choice of many that such beds should be ren¬
dered as gay as possible—this kind of bedding
is deserving of attention at a season when only
hardy plants can be used.

For some of the plants just named special
treatment, though simple, is required in order
to ensure flowers and the subsequent health of
the plants. Assuming that they can be planted
in autumn as soon as tho summer bedding
plants have been damaged by early frosts, they
should have been well grown in a rich and
rather holding loam as a preparation. This
not only suits the whole of them, but the roots
can be lifted with so little damage that scarcely
any check is experienced. In glancing at each
subject in the order of colour, it will be seen
that there is no difficulty in adapting them to
winter bedding.

Cardamine asartfolia has small white
flowers with a yellow eye, arranged in corym¬
bose heads on stems G inches or 9 inches high ;
it is an almost perpetual bloomer. Simple as the
Cuckoo flowers are, in this kind they are very
pleasing and effective when good blooming
plants are used. The large, nearly round and
dark green, but fresh-looking, leaves are also a
feature ; they spread themselves out almost
flatly and help greatly to set off the flowers to
advantage. Divisions of the somewhat woody,
creeping, rooting stems should be made in
spring and planted in good loam fully exposed
to sunshine ; these will probably be fit for
forming beds the following autumn.

Muscari botryoides album is a gem. It
grows from 3 inches to G inches high and lasts a
long time in beauty, and though it doe 3 not
increase so fast as the type, it multiplies at such
a rate that it ought not to be so scarce in
gardens as it appears to be. The bulbs only
need to be set in the ordinary way in autumn,
and if not quite ripened off by the time the beds
are wanted in June they lift well; the better
plan would be, however, to use a little extra care
and leave them in the beds for another season
or two.

Scilla sibirica. —This amongst blues is a
great favourite, and in every way reliable for
producing a sheet of rich colour ; imported bulbs
do well the first season, but are much finer
afterwards, and if they can be left in the beds
they ought to be. Similar treatment should be
given to

Chionodoxa Lucille. —How quickly this
charming little bulb has met with general
patronage. It is now almost everywhere, and
how well it does in our climate ; imported bulbs
have more than doubled in size, and in the flowers
there are many shades of colour as well as other
slight differences. Its flowers are superior to
those of the Scillas in delicacy of tint, and
though something like the Puschkinias, so much
praised, it is far more robust and beautiful. It
may be treated exactly the same as the Scillas.

Iris reticulata has, as we all know, hand¬
some purple flowers, with golden or orange
coloured markings. We often see it stated that
its flowers need protection, but my experience
of it growing fully exposed is that its dwarf
j and rigid habit enables it to endure the worst

of weather. It grows from 8 inches to 12 inches
high. Three or four small clumps, consisting of
about six bulbs each, on a small bed, would shine
like jewels for four or six weeks. Owing to the
early period at which these bulbs emit their
new roots they should be started very early in
the autumn, and for bedding I should put them
in S inch pots, and then plunge them after the
beds were made ready, just covering the rims of
the pots.

Narcissus minor has pale yellow flowers 3
inches or 4 inches high ; when grown in stiffish
loam it can be transplanted at any time without
being hurt. It has plenty of roots, and not much
top, aud therefore lifts with a good ball of earth.
The bulbs should be liberally planted, and for
bedding purposes rather close, but for permanent
clumps they may be a few inches apart, as they
increase faBt.

. The Doronicums flower when only 3 inches
or 4 inches high, and continue in blossom for
two months or more, at which time they may
be 1 foot or 15 inches high. I have found D.
caucasicum and D. austriacum to answer best;
they have large, nearly orange-yellow flowers—
practically spring Sunflowers—and their verdant
foliage gives freshness to the borders or beds
in which they are used. D. Clusii is too shy
to be of use as regards bedding, and D. pArda-
lianches is too coarse and rather late. Newly
divided pieces are not reliable, but if divisions
are planted in good loam in spring they will
do admirably for the following autumnal
arrangement.

Anemone fulgens, if started in pots early
in autumn, strong roots, and turned into the
beds when ready, may be relied upon for early
flowers. This brilliant scarlet Windflower is
one of the most striking, and if well grown its
flowers render any arrangement in which they
occur very effective. It grows a foot high, and
the tubers may be safely lifted and stored iu
sand about the end of May or in June.

Saxifraga oppositifolia and its varieties
afford a dense and pleasing dark green mossy
carpet, in addition to their large rosy purple
flowers. In order, however, to have compact
tufts, the plants should be prepared by being
divided and grown for a year or so iu rich loam.
The usefulness of this really valuable spring
flower greatly depends on this treatment, for
unless so prepared the beauty of the carpet gets
impaired, and the flowers are not so plentiful as
they should be.

Erica carnea.— The dark shining evergreen
foliage of this Heath, thickly beset with pinkish
buds and flowers for many weeks, aye, months
at a time, fits it for almost any part of the
garden ; it thrives in loam without a particle of
peat, and, carrying plenty of soil at the roots,
may be lifted at any time for bedding or other
purposes.

Daphne Mezereum also has a root furnished
with plenty of fibres, and will withstand rough
usage at the planter’s hands. Moreover, though
very dwarf it flowers freely. It is a general
favourite, and sure to be admired in any spring
garden arrangement.

If some of these flowers have not been com¬
monly used for winter bedding they are at least
all well tried and proved subjects, and there
can be little doubt that they would prove highly
interesting, even during the severest winters.

Kirk stall . John Wood.

Wild Daffodils. —Within two months of
the time this appears in print, if tho season is
an ordinary one, wild Daffodils will be begin¬
ning to flower in the south of the island. A
very interesting flower is the common wild
Daffodil. It is the typical form of a species
consisting of very many varieties, which are
not fully understood by botanists. There are
some who wish to deny our country the honour
of having the Daffodil as a true child of the
soil ; but, if not a real native, it has made
itself, like many other strangers, very comfort¬
able in its adopted quarters, and no one would
think of disputing its title to the land. There
i9 one thing about the wild Daffodil to which 1
wish to draw the attention of all readers of
Gardening Illustrated. An old belief is
prevalent in different parts of the country that
by high cultivation in suitable soil, the small
single Daffodil of our fields may be changed into
the large double Daffodil of our gardens. This
belief has long been ridiculed by some who

JNlVERSfTT OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

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■Iak. 10, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

505

profess to know a great deal about Daffodils;
others, of whom the writer is one, think that
the evidence whieh has from time to time been
given by those in whose garden the change has
Laken place ought not to be discredited. But it
Udesirableth&tmoreobservationashonld be made
in differ* nt parts of the country. If the experi¬
ment is made in a thousand gardens in different
part3 of the kingdom, it may perhaps succeed in
twenty or thirty of them ; and certain people,
who make a rule to believe nothing but what
they see, will say that what happens in one
garden ought to happen in all. Wo shall
perhaps know some day why it is not so ; at
present we wish to ascertain the facts from the
evidence of as many persons as possible. If any
who are willing to make the experiment, and
observe the change carefully, find any difficulty
in obtaining single wild Daffodils I shall be
happy to supply them. The change must not
be expected to be completed for two or three
years. It is carious that when the wild
Daffodil becomes double, as it sometimes does,
in the fields in which it grows naturally, the
flower does not increase in size, or change in
colour; but the double flowers which have bceu
sent me from several gardens a9 the produce of
cultivated wild Daffodils are much larger in size
and deeper in colour, and belong, in fact, in
appearance, to the large garden variety of
Daffodil. It is to be hoped that this matter will
be fully investigated in the next three years.—
C. Wolley Dod, Edge Hall, Malpas, Cheshire .

Destroying lawn Daisies.— The follow¬
ing is the treatment I have adopted with com-

S lete success :—On coming to my present resi-
ence, nearly eleven years ago, I found my
Uwn, containing about a quarter of an acre, a
complete mass of Daisies, Plantains, and Dande¬
lions. To cloar it, I set two or three boys to
work with weeding forks, making them dig up
each plant separately by its roots, and, to
ensure perfect work, divided the lawn by cords
into squares of about four square yards each,
and never allowed a boy to commence on a fresh
part of the lawn till he had thoroughly cleared
one of these divisions. This took time, but in
about two months the lawn was well cleared of
weeds. In the early spring I sowed it thickly
with lawn Grass seed, and sprinkled it lightly
with fine mould aud soot iu about equal propor¬
tions. During the spring and summer following
the Daisies and weeds again showed in great
quantities, but were attacked as at first, the
lawn again sown and dressed as above, and
the following year the weeds had diminished to
so great an extent that it was an easy matter to
keep them in check. Since then I have never
had any trouble in keeping them down. The
few that appear are immediately rooted up, the
lawn is annually sown thickly with the finest
Grass seed, and during the past seven years has
had one light dressing of soot. It presents a
nice surface of Gross, which is mown once
a week ; and every spring I examine it care¬
fully and remove patches that have become
covered with parasite weeds, that will occa¬
sionally appear, replacing them with pieces of
the finest turf I can procure, and as soon as
firmly set remove with the weeding fork all
Daisies and weeds that appear thereon. —
W. S. F.

Wallflower Harbinger.— I find this to
be one of the best and sweetest of outdoor
flowers in winter; in mild seasons like the
present it keeps on producing flowers without
intermission the whole season through. It is a
good dark variety and a great favourite with
growers for market. Thi9 is a good time to sow
seed of it ; unless sown early, the plants do not
get sufficiently matured to flower before the
spring. Sow thinly, and as soon as the plants
are large enough to handle plant them out, 1 foot
apart, in any good garden soil. The position I
like for them is between rows of bush fruits ;
there they get shelter from cutting winds, which
are more destructive to them than actual frosts.
In a cut state there is scarcely a flower more
welcome, either in castle or cottage, than the
common single Wullfiower, of which Harbinger
is a good variety.—J. G.

Dielytra epectabilis. —Good clumps of
this, lifted from the open ground just as they
are starting into growth, and potted in good
rich soil, make charming ornaments for the
conservatory. Its long arched spikes of waxy-
looking flowers and its graceful foliage hive a

Digitized bv\j005lC

fine effect when seen in masses of some size.
This plant starts into growth very early, and,
when out of doors, is liable to suffer from late
spring frosts. It should be planted under the
shelter of large evergreen shrubs or close to a
wall, as wind is more destructive to its tender
growth than even frost. I have frequently seen
its shoots lying prostrate and apparently killed
by frost, and, with the return of a more genial
temperature, again becoming erect ; but if ex¬
posed to wind when in & frozen state, the leaves
turn black and die. It is not at all fastidious
as to soil; its large fleshy roots push down a
considerable depth, aud even the smallest
crowns, if left undisturbed, soon develop into
large clumps. It is readily increased by division
of the roots, and for the wild garden scarcely
any plant can be better adapted. Under large
overhanging trees to ward off spring frosts, and
near shrubs and bushes to break cold currents
of harsh winds, it is quite at home ; and, when
springing from mossy turf, carpeted or studded
with Primroses, Polyanthuses, and hardy bulbs,
there is no fear of its delicate blossoms being
soiled or splashed by heavy rains, as happens
when they are produced by plants in freshly-
dug beds. Those who have not given the
Dielytras a trial in such positions should do so.
—J. G., Hants.

Sweet Peas In a cut state. — Few
flowers are more generally appreciated than
Sweet Peas, which are now being sown in gar¬
dens both large and small. I get frequent
queries put to me as to their culture ; but really
there is no difficulty in getting them to grow
and bloom profusely. The point is to get them
to keep on doing so for a long period, and if
the following plan be followed this will be
attained. Select a good deep soil in the kitchen
garden, and take out a trench as if for Celery ;
dig in a quantity of rotten manure at the
bottom and then fill in the soil nearly level with
the Burfacc ; scatter tho seeds thinly, and cover
them with about 1 inch of soil. The young
plants will soon appear, when some coal ashes
should be scattered over them to preserve them
from slugs. Put stout-branched sticks on each
side of the row, and if cold winds prevail a few
evergreen branches will prove a great protec¬
tion, but they must be removed before the
plants get drawn. The latter will grow rapidlv
in April and May, and by the end of that month
will be coming into flower ; then is the time to
apply a good coating of rotten manure at least
2 feet wide on each side of the row, and if dry
weather prevails give copious supplies of water
and liquid manure at intervals of a fortnight.
Keep the fully expanded blooms gathered before
they fade, as, if allowed to seed, they soon chock
the formation of successional blooms. For
cutting, a good mixed packet of seed will pro¬
duce nearly all colours, but if desired they can
all be obtained separately. Anyone with
limited space will find this plan better than
sowing several times during the season.—J.
Groom.

Hardy v. Chlneee Primroses.— When
we get a common, coloured, hardy Primrose
with a frilled petal, we shall be able to dispenee
with Chinese Primroses nearly altogether This
should not be an unattainable object, as I believe
the original Chinese Primrose had flat petals,
as many Beedlings from fine strains have now.
The hardy Primrose excels the Chinese Primrose
in variety and richness of colour, and the flowers
and trusses are nearly as largo. There are
already coloured varieties of tho giant Polyan¬
thus, with its fine large Primrose flower, and
what may be accomplished by the pot culture of
such varieties remains to be proved, but we
should say the possibilities are great indeed.
With the least protection, seedlings raised the
previous summer may be had in flower all through
the winter. Numbers of the giant varieties
of our plants had flower-etems 9 inches high last
year, and broad trusses of remarkably large
flowors. Stray sports of coloured varieties, that
came among tho whites and yellows, were
equally large and fine. These are the sorts best
suited for pot specimens. We would strongly
recommend those who do not succeed with the
somewhat miffy Chinese Primrose to begin with
tho hardy kinds in cold frames.

The winter Jasmine for hedges.—
It may not be generally known that Jasminnm
nudiflorum makes a good hedge plant. A few
years ago I saw a fine hedge composed entirely

of it in a cottage garden near Wellington, and
when in flower it had really a fine appearance.
It was not, however, a hedge in the ordinary
sense of the word—grown with a view to form
a fence. It was simply planted to form a divi¬
sional line between two cottage gardens ; but in
thickness and height it was in every w ay worthy
of the name of a hedge. It was about 4 feet high
and 2 feet thick, und it had evidently been
sheared up regularly, just as a Thorn hedge
would be.—J. C. C.

Verbenas from seed.— Verbenas from
cuttings have been well nigh banished from our
flower gardens owing to a disease that has
rendered their cultivation very precarious, but
happily seedlings, from their more robustgrowth,
seem to enjoy an immunity from this disease,
and very beautiful beds of flower they make,
their varied colours and spreading habit making
them the very best of carpeting plants for cover¬
ing the soil under plants of a more stately habit
of growth. Tho latter must, however, be
planted at wide intervals apart, so as not to
shade the Verbenas beneath them too much.
The seeds should be sown in pans or boxes, and
inagenial temperature of about GOdegs. they will
soon germinate and make good plants. When
fit to handle, prick them off into boxes filled with
light sandy soil about 2 inches apart; keep the
points of the shoots pinched out in order to make
bushy little plants by the time they can safely
be trusted out-of-doors. Cold pits or frames arc
the best places in which to gradually harden
them, as the lights can be kept entirely off
except when cold winds or frosts prevail. Few
plants repay liberal culture better than the
Verbena ; therefore the soil should be deeply
dug and well enriched, so that the roots may
find food and moisture in periods of drought.
Under such conditions they keep growing and
flowering profusely during the whole season, but
if starved their flowering period is brief. After
they have started into growth, the shoots should
be spread over the surface of the beds and kept
in their places by means of Btout pegs ; they
will need but little more attention tho whole
season.— James Groom, Gosport.

Destroying weeds on lawns.— Sul¬
phuric acid (oil of vitriol) is the beat material
that can be used for destroying tap root weeds
on a lawn. Procure some acid from a chemist,
put it in a wide-necked pickle or preserving
bottle with a piece of wiro around its neck,
tied in a loop about 0 inches long, by which to
carry it. Take a small pointed stick in tho
other hand, dip it into the acid, and then pierce
the heart of the weed with it, and the latter
will never be troublesome any more. When tho
weed is dead, the Grass will quickly cover the
place it occupied. Care must be taken that the
acid is not allowed to touch the hands, clothes,
or shoes. I may state, however, that in the
case of any accident happening with it, the part
affected should be immediately immersed in or
sluiced with water. This method of killing
weeds will be found to be much more expe¬
ditious than that of lifting them by means of a
small fork. Besides, when acid is used no
holes will be made in the turf.—C. W. C.

Oastor-oil plants.— Few plants grown for
the beauty of their foliage are more ornamental
than the different varieties of Ricinus or Castor-
oil plants, seeds of which should be ordered
now. Not only are they suitable for the em¬
bellishment of large conservatories or halls, but
they are grand outdoors, where, if planted as
single specimens on lawns, dotted here and there
in borders, or grouped in masses, they produce
a striking effect. If arranged in the last-named
way, the stronger sorts should be placed in the
centre and the weaker ones outside ; where single
plants are used in prominent positions, the most
robust look the boldest and beat. Among the
weaker growers there is one deserving of special
mention, viz. : R. Gibsoni ; this Jhas leaves and
stem as darkly coloured and rich looking as tho
Iresine or Dell’s Beet, and if planted with an
edging of Abutilon Thorapsoni, the contrast
l^etween tho two is most pleasing. As these
Castor-oils are gross-feediDg plants, the soil
should be specially prepared for them by being
trenched or deeply dug, and at the same time
heavily manured ; if this is done they will
develop magnificent leaves, and have a shapely
appearance the whole of the summer. Many
make mistakes in sowing them too Boon and
starving the."plant* at first starting; if they

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 10, 1885.

50 6

become drawn and checked then, they run up
with weak, naked sterna instead of being well
furnished with foliage. As the seeds germinate
quickly, and the plants grow fast, the middle or
end of April is quite time enough to sow, for
it is not sale to plant out till the drat week
in June, and they get to a Urge size in a month
or six weeks if well treated and nursed on in
heat. Before planting out it is necessary to
harden them by gradual exposure, and directly
they are in the beds they should be staked and
securely tied, or the wind will break and destroy
them.—S. D.

12470.—Red spider on Pansies.— It is
probable your correspondent's Pansies are not
suffering from red spider, but a green fly, which
becomes red by feeding on the Pansy. My
remedy is a simple and effectual one. I put
about a \ oz. of soft soap, or Hudsons extract
of soap, in a 1 lb. jam jar of boiling water, and
when cold apply it to the infested plants with a
good-sized camel-hair brush, dropping it on the
centre of the shoots. Few amateurs are aware
that nearly every species of green fly can be
killed by the use of soft soap only ; in fact, it
is the only insecticide that I use, both in the
greenhouse and garden.—\V. H. F.

12380 — Dutchman's Pipe (Aristolochia
Sipho).—This is not evergreen, but is such a tine
climber that it should be more employed than
is now the case, the foliage beiDg broad and
handsome. The flowers, as is generally the case
with plants remarkable for beauty of foliage,
are inconspicuous, being chocolate brown in
colour, but in shape very much like those
curiously-formed pipes that the Dutch use.
Now is a good time to plant, and a sunny posi¬
tion should be chosen, as this plant likes
warmth, and does not bloom when it fails to
get the tine sun during the greater part of the
day. For covering a wall or trellis, or draping
old stumps of trees, there is nothing better than
the Aristolochia. It succeeds in almost any
soil.— Byfleet.

12453.—Leaf-mould and Hollyhocka.
—" A Beginner ” should put all the leaves he can
procure in one large heap, and empty thereon
all household slops ; they should be ready
for use in spring. I do not think they would
greatly benefit Hollyhocks, as they require a
strong soil. Better results would be obtained
by using good stable manure. If really good
blooms are required the main stem only should
be left on the plant, and the individual blooms
thinned ; but if g own for decorative purposes
only, I would suggest that four or five stems be
left on each plant, and the thinning left undone.
As the Hollyhock is a gross feeder, it i« necessary
to give plenty of manure both in a solid form
and also in a liquid state.—R. Mann, Shad well.

-Place the leaves in a heap together and

they will decay, beiog converted into mould in tho
'-.course of a couple of years. Whoever told you
to cut away the side growths of Hollyhocks
knows nothing of their culture, and if you have
done so the chances are that the plants will
completely disappear in a cold, wet winter.
Every shoot and leaf should be preserved unless
cuttings are taken, and they should be struck in
August. In the case of choice-named kinds it
is customary to guard against loosening them by
taking off a cutting or two from plants large
enough to furnish them. These strike readily
in saudy soil under a hand-light, and as they
make the best plants another year it does not
so much matter about the old stools dying.—
J. C. B.

12407.—Blight on Honeysuckle. -The blight is
the black fly, lo which Honeysuckles are very subject.
Kir tree oil would be a good remedy, or, hotter still, a
handful or two of soft soap dissolved and well stirred in a
bucket of rainwater. Syringe this over the plants the
moment the blight shows itself.—K.

12412.—Water Lilly.—They are sold in Covent Garden
market at a shilling per root.—J. D. K.

12424.—Hyacinth us candicans.—Plant at onco in
a rich friable soil about 0 inches deep. They are quite
hardy. - Corua* us.

12419 — Snowdrops —No; you cou’d not get Snow¬
drops so long before their time, nor will they bear forcing.
Any attempt at so doing seems to retard them.—

CoitldANDB.

12425 — Greenhouse wall.— Try covering your wall
with Ficus repens—it grows quickly, is evergreen, and
would be much prettier than ted paint —Coriaamdb.

12360 — Transplanting Oorse —Young planti not
more than two years old transplant well enough, but
larger plants are apt to fail, and for this reas n nursery¬
men grow the double kind in The end of September

or the beginning of March is the best time to transplant,
watering if the weathcrsfequld be dry.—J.-sC. B.

Digitized by C^OOQlC

TREE8 AND SHRUBS.

RETJNOSPORAS.

The hardiness, grace of growth, and usefulness
of the Kttinosporua must be accorded a foremost

Itctinojpora leptocloda.

place amongat evergreen trees and shrubs. But
little more than twenty years ago they were
almost unknown in this country, and even now,

I

l

jif-

[t**

Botinospora dubia.

well-recognised though their merits are by those

who have mu ;h to do with tree planting, they _ „ .

are not, in the real sense of the word, popular, jgjjt.culture these little Conifers are extremely

It is true they are abundantly planted in the
gardens of the wealthy, andm&nyan added charm
to park and pleasure ground is obtained by their
means ; but I call a plant popular only when it
is frequently seen in villas and small gardens
generally, and this cannot be said of the
Ketinosporas, with the exception, perhaps, of
the old ericoides, or Heath-like Retinospora,
which is largely grown by nurserymen for the -*
embellishment of window ledges, balconies, and
similar places. At the present time we have in
cultivation more th&n forty species and varieties
of these charming little shruDs, and it is not too
much to say that out of this number at least one
should be iu every garden, however small;
indeed, so specially adapted are they to small
growers that I would go so far as to Bay that if
you have room fur one evergreen only, plant a
Retinospora. Of typical forms or species there
are about a dozen, and of these obtusa, pisifera,
and plumosa have guided the great portion of
the varietal forms whioh are diatinguiahed
cither by habit of growth, colour, or stature.

One of the best known and moat enduring
species is pisifera. it is dark in colour, of a
compact yet graceful habit, and succeeds in
almost any soil. Closely allied to it, but not so
strong of growth, is plumosa. Both of these
have given birth to yellow foliaged varieties,
which are justly valued for their brightness
during the winter months. Placed among
other evergreens they light them up, and
especially in early spring, when the dry air and
enlivening aun of March intensifies their
tints. These golden variegated Conifers are
not of rapid growth, and are, therefore, more
fitted for moderate-sized gardens, and in large
shrubbery borders they should come into the
foremost rank. They have an excellent appear¬
ance isolated on the Grass, and on no account
should they be crowded and deprived of light
and air, as they then not only lose much of their
individuality, but do not take on the colour
which renders them so attractive. Among the
very dwarf forms obtusa nana, lycopodiodes,
and leptocl&da are those which should receive
special attention from the owners of fore¬
courts and very small gardens generally.

The last-named, which is well represented by
the accompanying woodcut, is quite distinct
from any other Conifer. It is a quaint-
looking plant, dark in colour, and of such
slow growth that years are required to
bring it up to a height of 2 feet; therefore
it is still rather scarce and somewhat dear.

But for the centre of beds iu little front gardens
I know of nothing better, as it does not much
exhaust the soil, and, as will be seen in the en¬
graving, is of an upright columnar habit, and
therefore does not take up much space. The
little lycopodiodes is even more curious and
quaint in appearance, and is yet rare. The old
ericoides, already alluded to, is also well-fitted
for small gardens, being still one of the most
distinct of evergreen shrubs, forming a compact
upright mass of fine foliage, which in winter
takes on a rich bronzy hue, so that it affords a
tine contrast to the green leaved and yellow
kinds; indeed, by means of Retinospor&s
alone it wonld be easy to form a
charmingly varied winter garden. Perhaps
the most elegant of all the Retinospor&s is
rtlifera, the leading and prominent shoots of
which curve sharply, so that the plant has what
may be called a Weeping Willow-like habit.
Being of rather diffuse growth, and the branches
having this graceful arching tendency, it forms a
fine subject for the centre of beds where winter
bedding is carried out. I have seen it used very
effectively by a friend of mine, who every
autumn filled the beds on the lawn with dwarf
plants of Thujas, Retinosporas, Biota elegan-
tissima, &c. Appropriately placed it is one of
the prettiest little Conifers in cultivation.
Another interesting kind is dnbia, of
which an illustration is given, and which,
curiously enough, seems to partake of
the nature of two species, or, rather, scarcely
appears to be more than a varietal form. With
Squ&rrosa, juniperoides the Juniper-like Reti-
uospora, and the pretty little Fern-like Retino-
apora (filicoides), which appears to be getting
rare in cultivation, I close the list, for although
there are a couple of dozen or more horizontal
forms of obtuaa, pisifera, and plumosa, many
of them are but little different from the types
which suffice f§r all ordinary purposes. For

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

i

Jan. 10, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

567

well adapted, ami those who may be thinking of
embellishing window ledges, balconies, cold-
honsea, or corridors will do well to bear them in
mind. Pot them firmly in loam or in any good
garden soil, and see that they come into the
open air again by April. Then if you plunge
them to the rims of the pots, and keep them
well watered in hot weather, they will remain
healthy for several years without change of soil.
For the above purposes I consider this way of
growing evergreens in pots preferable to plant¬
ing oat for the summer and repotting in autumn,
as, the pots being filled with roots, they are not
so likely to suffer when exposed on balconies and
similar places as when newly potted up. Reti-
noapora3, however, rarely die if transplanted
with ordinary care, as they form a thick mass of
couch-like roots which quickly lay hold of the
fresh soil. John Corn hill.

SUCCESSION OF RHODODENDRON
BLOOM.

I>' planting Rhododendrons in gardens and
woods, too much attention can hardly be bestowed
apoa the season of flowering of the different
varieties. There is only one more important
point we know of, and that is the choice of
varieties that do grow and flower with some de¬
gree of certainty, because the blood of the tender
and hardy kinds is now so much mixed in some
kinds, that all so-called hardy Rhododendrons
are not now to be depended upon. Seedlings now
form a large portion of Rhododendron stock, and
many of them are quite equal to the named kinds
in every way, and they are cheaper as well, only
one never knows what they are buying in seed¬
lings ; hence, in order to produce*a good effect
and have flowers from February till July, it is
necessary to invest in named kinds to a consider¬
able extent; and these are also of almost end¬
less variety, many of thorn being very similar in
habit and colour.

Rhododendrons begin to flower generally in
April, and the later kinds are not over till July
in the north of England and in Scotland ; hence,
from now till midsummer is the time to see and
jadge of the best sorts for general planting, and,
in selecting varieties, three main points should
be kept in view—viz., hardiness, a free flowering
habit, and colour. Nowhere can these be seen
to better ad vantage than in the nursery among the
plantations of plants of all ages, which in every
good nursery are set out methodically in rows,
so that the characteristics of each sort can be
seen at a glance. The most distinct and telling
varieties are the whites, like Venus, in flower
now, Purity, and Cuuningham’s White ; bright
rose, like Brightness and Jacksoni; and
crimsons, like Nobleanum aud Sebastopol, &c.
It is these three colours which produce the most
telling effects, and to them may be added the
purple kinds. Between them all are many
intermediate shades, but white, rose, and
crimson in maases should form the body colour
of any collection designed to produce an effect
at a distance; all these colours can be had
in flower for some three months in the year, and
any respectable nurseryman may bo trusted to
select the varieties according to these rules.
Plantiug may be continued down till the begin
ning of June. S.

The Almond tree. —The Almond is a
lovely tree in blossom, a tree well fitted for our
northern climate, and one that seldom fails to
boldly announce the coming to quick life of
trees, and buds, and flowers. Occasionally, by
a suburban road, one may see beautiful aspects
of the Almond tree in spring ; but it is neglected
in the larger places and in country Beats, and
this is a pity, because such places have better
means of developing its beauty than the subur¬
ban garden. In Japan, we have been told, the
flowering of the Almond is a festival time, the
climate favouring a more complete development
than ours does ; but our climate suits the tree
thoroughly—much better than it does the
Poaches, double or single, which were brought
from Japan some years ago, and which are
beautiful enough, so far as they go, and ex¬
tremely bright in colour, but do not seem to
grow into healthy trees, no matter what care
they get. Therefore the improvement of the
Almond tree would be much more worthy of our
attention; aud the raising of good varieties from
it, brighter in colour or.hardier, would be a
gain. There is a very jarge-fl(Wei : r^ Variety

in cultivation now in the nurseries about
London, and no doubt where the tree is
cultivated for its fruit there are other varieties.
However, the common kind, well grown, is
good enough for our purpose ; and the main
thing to say about it is that it should not be
always crowded and forgotten in a shrubbery,
or starved there. The tree, it seems to us,
deserves growing for its own sake as an
individual, or, still better, as a small group.
In country places a considerable amount of
taste may be employed in the placing of these
individuals, or groups, because, from its bright
colour, it is a tree that admits of landscape
treatment, so to say, a well-placed group telling
well in the distance. Another consideration is
worthy of mention, and that is the possibility
of having a succession of this bright tree’s
blossoms by planting it in different positions.
A group or an individual in a northern exposure
or on heavy clay would flower at a different
time from one in a sunny exposure and on light
soil; and one might escape and give a satis¬
factory bloom, while perhaps another opened at
a time of Bevere weather. The trees in all cases
ought to have room for fair development in
good soil.

The Burning Bush.— In the west of Eng¬
land Rhus Cotinus is known as the Burning
Bush ; it has gained this character on account
of the fiery appearance which the fading leaves
have in autumn. Few low-growing shrubs are
more striking than this in the month of October,
when the fading colour is a dull tone of ver¬
milion-red. In August it puts forth its flowery
plumes, which are equally attractive and singu¬
lar as the fading leaves. Not the least of its
valuable properties is that it will thrive in
almost any soil or situation, and I have never
known the severest winters to injure it.—
J. C. C.

THE COMING* WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Te m perature and air q i vino. —The tempera¬
ture of conservatories should be from 46 degs.
to 50 degs. in the night, according to the weather,
with a proportionate rise by day; this, as a matter
of course, will necessitate an almost continuous
use of fire-heat, to avoid the overdrying influence
of which sufficient moisture must be given in the
immediate vicinity of the pipes, otherwise the
air will get so dry that not only are its effects
certain to be seen in causing the unexpanded buds
of Camellias to fall off, but it will also act in¬
juriously upon other plants. Be very careful
abont the admission of air, even at such times
as the sun happens to shine out clear and bright,

B it, as far as possible, at the roof. Much
let the thermometer rise considerably on
the few occasions that it may be expected to do
so for several weeks hence than ad mit a volume
of cold air in direct contact with the plants.

Heaths and Primulas. —As soon as Heaths
have done blooming they should be at once cut
back, so as to cause the principal shoots to break
low enough to keep them from assuming the
straggling condition they will get into if left
to go on for another season without the last
Bummer’s growth being sufficiently reduced.
Both the single and double varieties of Primulas
should, where possible, be kept in a light house
or pit, where they can be accommodated with a
night temperature of from 45 degs. to 50 degs.
Keep them as close to the glass os circumstances
will permit. The plants of the single varieties
intended for later flowering should be some
degrees cooler than this, and all must be watered
with care, as if the footstalks of the leaves get
much wet they will be liable to decay.

Cyclamens.— To grow these plants well they
should be treated through the winter as to
temperature much in the way recommended for
Primulas, as, unless kept a little warmer than
an ordinary greenhouse, they will not grow or
flower in anything like perfection. Keep
a good look-out that there are no aphides
upon them, otherwise they get established in
quantity on the young advancing bloom-stems
without being noticed, in which case flowers
will be deformed.

Calceolarias. —Plants of herbaceous Cal¬
ceolarias raised from seed sown last summer,
and afterwards potted off singly, should at once
be attended to by moving them into larger pots
before their roots get at all confined. If they
are stunted they never afterwards can be in¬

duced to grow on freely. If, as may be sup¬
posed, they are occupying 3-iuon pots, a portion
may be moved into 4-inch ones, or larger, in
which they can be allowed to bloom. Those
that are intended to have a second shift in addi¬
tion to the present, may be transferred at this
time to 0-inch pots. They delight in rich,
light soil, such as is composed of two parts
good, free, turfy loam, with a third part con¬
sisting of equal proportions of leaf-mould
and rotten manure, all mixed up with suffi¬
cient sand. In potting avoid the extremes of
leaving the soil very loose, or of pressing
it in the pots to that degree of solidity
necessary with Pelargoniums. The plants
should have a light position in a pit or house
that can be kept at a temperature of about 40
degs. in the night, with a moister atmosphere
than many plants require. Shrubby Calceolarias
intended for flowering in pots should be similarly
treated : these do better with potting somewhat
harder than the herbaceous species. Both
should be from time to time examined to sec
that they are free from green fly. Where only
a few individual plants amongst a number are
affected, dipping in Tobacco water will prove
an efficient means for the destruction of the
insects, or they may be killed by fumigation,
but where this is resorted to it will be safer to
repeat it slightly several times than to subject
the plants to a severe application, as they are
easily injured by Tobacco fumes.

Cinerarias. —If a sowing were made suffi¬
ciently early, and the plants have been well
attended to through the season, they will
naturally have come on into flower without any¬
thing above the usual greenhouse treatment.
Even a very little heat injures them by destroy¬
ing the under leaves and drawing the bloom-
stems up thin and weakly. Keep the Bucces-
sional later-blooming plants as cool as possible,
so that they are out of the reach of frost; by
this means they may be had to flower in good
condition up to the middle of May, during
which period they will be found most useful.

Flower Garden.

General work. —High keeping is certainly
most desirable at this dull season of the year ;
therefore lawns should be kept clear of leavos
and worm-casts by frequent rolling and sweep¬
ing ; walks should be cleared of Moss and weeds
by turning, and, where necessary, regravclliog.
The beat of all walk preservers is the roller ;
when this is used freely, weeds and Moss have
a hard time of it, and firm walks are the result.
In the event of frosty weather setting in, plenty
of work may be found in carting out soils and
manures to spotB where they are required,
throwing together leaf heaps, and burning up
prunings or other rubbish, the ashes of which
form a valuable manure for any crop.

* Shrubberies.

Clean out all leaves that would be likely to
blow out and cause untidiness ; where possible,
without injuring the roots, preference is given
to forking them in, but before doing this the
plants should be regulated as to space, either by
thinning out and replanting in other positions
or by cutting out straggling growths, so as
to keep each plant from injuring its neighbour.
The margins of turf should be then cut, and
any vacant ground in front furnished either with
hardy bulbs or spring-flowering plants, such as
Wallflowers, Forget-me-nots, Polyanthuses,
Primroses, and similar plants. In forming new
beds for shrub planting, the ground should be
trenched as deeply as the nature of the soil will
allow; plenty of decayed manure should be
worked into it, and for those beds that are in¬
tended for what are generally termed American
plants, i.e. t Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Kalmias,
(fee , peat soil is desirable, but by no means
essential, as they do almost equally well in pure
loam, provided it is not too heavy and is freo
from cnalk, which seems to be rank poison to
American shrubs and Conifers. Sec that the
plants are not buried deeper than they were
previous to removal, and also that the soil is
well worked in and consolidated about the roots.
These precautions may seem of little moment,
but they make all the difference between the
bad or well-doing of the plants.

Fruit.

Melons. —When early Melons are required,
and a light, efficiently-heated pit is at com¬
mand, % few seeds ol Jome free-bearing early

URBANA-CHAMPA1GN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 10, 188. 1 ;.

kind may be sown at once in small pots and
plunged in a bottom-heat of 80 degs. r which can
be kept up by the aid of hot-water pipes running
beneath the bed. The great drawback to Melons
at this early season is want of light, a difficulty
which may be met by keeping the young plants
close to the glass, which must be clean, and by
covering with bell-glasses in preference to mats
on severe nights. Immediately after the seeds
are sown set about the preparation of suitable
materials for making up the plunging bed in
which the plants are to grow and ripen their
fruit. For this purpose well-worked tan gives
least trouble, but in wooded districts sound Oak
leaves produce better results, as the moist heat
from decaying vegetable matter is more favour¬
able to a clean healthy growth of vine and
foliage. Another important item in successful
Melon culture is a good supply of strong loam
from an old pasture, which should be cut some
months before it is wanted for use, and stacked
in an open, airy shed, or in long narrow ridges
out-of-doors, with some kind of covering for
throwing off heavy rain and snow. If this is
not at hand, lose no time in securing enough
for the season and expose it to the atmosphere,
as wet crude soil is sure to lead to disappoint¬
ment if not to complete failure.

Vegetables.

All Ashtops and early varieties of Potatoes
should be exposed to the light. The main object
is to keep them back ; long white growths not
only weaken the tubers themselves, but have a
tendency to invite disease. The more robust and
wood-like stems our Potatoes have, the less we
have to fear from disease. Later varieties will
also be greatly benefited by exposure and turn¬
ing over. This, of course, has reference to the
stock for next season’s planting ; those used for
food should never be subjected to light. Look
over quarters of Snow’s Broccoli, cutting close
to the surface of the ground all heads that are
showing, and stack them up close together in a
shed. In this way they last for a very long
time in the best possible condition at this
season. It is a fact that cannot be too widely
known that 4 degs. of frost on Broccoli orCanli-
fiowers not only spoils their colour, but also their
flavour. Digging and trenching all land as it
becomes vacant should be proceeded with.
Cucumbers are doing well. Keep the shoots
thin, the house shut, and not too damp, and
success is sure to follow. Of Asparagus, Seakale,
and Rhubarb keep up plentiful supplies;
Mustard and Cress, Tarragon and Chervil, all
now want attention. These things, though
small, are of great importance.

ROSES.

Unpruned Roses. —There are not many
of these to be seen anywhere, as almost in every
garden close and formal pruning is practised.
This is no doubt right in many cases, but I
think there ought to be some Roses in every
garden unpruned. They are most pleasing in a
natural state, and for beauty and profusion of
bloom they far surpass any closely cut-down
straight-stemmed plants. In instances where
Roses have been allowed to grow naturally, the
varieties are seldom the best for the purpose,
kinds with poor blooms being the sorts generally
allowed to assume the bush form ; but when
some of the very best varieties are permitted to
assume large proportions the result is very
satisfactory. Imagine huge bushes of Baroness
Rothschild, Duke of Edinburgh, John Hopper,
Cheshunt Hybrid, Charles Lefebvre, Alfred
Colomb, and others 6 feet high, and as much
through, a mass of buds and blooms in June and
July, and some idea can be formed of what un¬
pruned Roses ought to be.—C. M.

Pruning' Roses. —It is not customary to
prune Roses close down to the ground, as, in the
case of strong-growing kinds, this would result
in a scarcity of bloom by reason of over luxuri¬
ance. The rule is to cut back strong shoots of
the past year’s growth to about two eyes from
the base, the best time for so doing being about
the middle of March, as then the young growths
are more liable to escape spring frosts. When
pruned in early winter they are apt in mild
seasons to start into growth before they should
do so, and then frequently get seriously
crippled.—J. C. B.

1*2402.— Pruning Mareohal Niel Rose.
—The Marechak requires to , l|e,-.differently

Digitized bv\jOOyl£

pruned from the majority of Roses. Only the
strongest shoots should be retained, and these
should be shortened to about two-thirds of their
length. When done blooming, cut these shoots
back to about two eyes, and encourage the
young shoots to healthy growth by attention to
watering, syringing, and keeping free from
insects. When growth is completed throw the
house open night and day to harden the wood,
and frame back in November as above recom¬
mended.—J. C. B.

12399.— Rose cultivation.— Dwarf stan¬
dards may be grown in the greenhouse, but wire
framework should be avoided. By a wise
system of pruning well-formed heads will soon
be produced. For greenhouse culture, if the
plants have to stand on stages, dwarf bushes are
the best; they may be worked on the Manetti
stock, the seedling Brier, or be grown from
cuttings. The Rose does not take very kindly
to the pyramid form, but the plants are some¬
times trained in that way by placing sticks in
the pots, training the growth to the required
form, and pruning them so that the framework
of the plants take that form. I would not use
a trellis.—J. D. E.

12406.—Roses in pots.— It is just possible
that the Roses require repotting. If they do
they required it three months ago, and it would
have been much better to have done it at that
time ; but “ better late than never.” It would
be well to repot them at once, in pots one size
larger only. The Roses like a rich, moderately
clayey soil to grow in, enriched, if necessary,
with a liberal proportion of manure. The Tea
Roses like a little turfy peat to be added to the
soil in which they are growing ; but it is not
essential. Leaf-mould is almost as good as
peat, and some sand should be used if the loam
is heavy.—J. D. E.

12367.— Pruning: Devoniensis Rose.— The strong:
shoots should be shortened to about one-third of their
length, and all weakly and decaying ones cut clean away.
Now is a good time to prune Hoses under glass. The
principal point is to allow each shoot sufficient space for
development, so that in the growing the young shoots are
not crowded.—J. C. B.

FUMIGATING INSECTS ON PLANTS.
Many an amateur gardener who loves his
garden has to do much of the necessary work
under great difficulties. He has to contend
with the ravages of insects, which disfigure, if
they do not destroy, some of his most cherished
plants. What will effectually destroy these
pests ? is a question he often puts with great
anxiety, and he often fails to get a satisfactory
answer. Let us, therefore, try to assist him in
solving this important problem. For indoor
plants frequent fumigations with the smoke of
Tobacco paper is the best remedy for destroying
thrips and green fly. For thrips, fumigate
three or four times at intervals of four or five
days—the later fumigations to destroy any
young progeny left behind in an embryo state.
What is the best manner of fumigating ? We
have had not a few fumigators announced from
time to time ; but we rarely or never see one
of them in use. They, no doubt, failed in some
one or more important particulars, and had to
be abandoned.

Gardeners have, therefore, to fall back upon
one of the old methods in use in gardens. Use
fresh Tobacco paper from a maker that can be
depended upon. Having closed up every aper¬
ture and opening in the house through which the
smoke can escape, after selecting a still evening
for the purpose of fumigation, invert a large
flower-pot or two on the floor, according to its
size. On this inverted pot place two ordinary
bricks on edge, with a space of 3 inches or
so between them. Here, then, we have an appro¬
priate rest for the fumigating pot. Then take
a wide 6-inch or 8-inch flower pot, tear the fresh
Tobacco paper into pieces about the size of a
crown piece, slightly sprinkle the driest portions
with water, and place them within easy reach
outside of the house ; then go to the kitchen fire
and rake out from the bottom of it ten or twelve
red-hot cinders, and on these place a few small
pieces of charcoal, so as to make a thin layer
between the red-hot cinders and the Tobacco
paper ; then drop the latter lightly over the
charcoal, so that the lowermost portion can
readily ignite, and fill up to the brim—this
should be the work of but a very few seconds ;
then pop the pot into the house on the tempi

rarv stage, and leave it to burn out at its leisure.
When well managed it will do this quickly
without breaking into flames,and so effectually
fill the house. If the paper be thrown on too
heavily the pot gets clogged and the paper burns
in an unsatisfactory manner, and it is very
disagreeable to have to enter the house and. stir
the fire, having to inhale the smoke, oftentimes
with very disagreeable consequences. We find
in our own experience that the layer of charcoal
prevents the Tobacco paper, unless it is used
very dry, from breaking out into flame.
Tobacco paper should on no account be allowed
to barn into a flame, but gradually smoulder;
if allowed to blaze and give off heated air, soft-
wooded plants are pretty well certain to suffer.

_ T. D.

HEATING GREENHOUSES.

Many of your correspondents seem to have great
difficulty with the heating of small greenhouses;
it may be of interest to hear my story. My
house is only 8 feet by 9 feet, a lean-to, but
glass from the apex of the roof to the wall at the
back, the glass sash being 9 feet long by 3 feet
high, so that I get the first rays of the sun in
the morning through that sash.

My first attempt was with an oil lamp, which
I only used a few weeks. Being an engineer, I
am able to do all required myself, and in that
way have tried plans and made changes that
would have cost many times the value of all I
have grown if I had been obliged to pay for a
man’8 time in doing the work for me. My
second attempt was with a coil of 1-inch pipe
enclosed in a cylinder or casing, and heated
by a Bunsen burner with gas—not finding
heat enough this way, I made another burner,
and by mixing the gas with atmospheric air, as
in the Bunsen burner, I got a greater heat, but
still not enough to keep out frost. But even a
more serious matter than the frost, was that
sometimes in the morning I found the flame
of the gas had been blown out, everything cold,
and the house filled with gas, although there
was a chimney to the apparatus to carry away
the products of combustion. I thus lost many
of my most valued plants. I next made a
boiler something on the plan of one in one of
your advertisements—“The Little Gem,” but
several years before that was advertised—using
a brick furnace under, and coke from the gas
works for fuel. This has answered very well;
but each year I have made alterations and
improvements, and I now find that though the
fire has only been out four times since the
second day of November last, burning day and
night, the cost of fuel has not been sixpence per
week.

I am now making a sketch for a new boiler or
heater that will be more economical than my
present one, or, what is the same thing, give me
greater heat at the same cost for fuel. With
my present arrangement I get a temperature of
80 degs. to 85 degs., but if that is kept up the
fire would not keep in for 12 hours with one
stoking, as it does now, with a temperature of
50 degs. to 60 degs., but the fault is that the
pipes are too small (only 1^-inch wrought iron).
Had they been 3-inch a very much better result
would be got. Altogether I have 50 feet of this
l|-inch bore gas pipe going entirely round three
sides of the house ; in the next winter I shall
probably make a new boiler, and use larger
pipes. I clean the fire bars before going to bed,
say 9.30, and find a nice bright fire in the morn¬
ing about seven o’clock. I clean the bars again
and give the usual charge of coke. No atten¬
tion is paid to the fire until between six
and seven o’clock in the evening, when
a little is put on to keep going until
the time for making up for the night. As
the fire burns only Blowly (though I nave the
power of getting a very intense heat, but con¬
trol it by checking the ingress of air to the ash
pit and the egress of smoke by a damper), very
i little clinker is made, but all burns to ash ex¬
cept some stony pieces that I am obliged to let
i out the fire to remove. I should advise anyone
i wishing to heat a small house to get the most
simple arrangement of boiler, and the best
■ fitted, as they are by far the cheapest and most

> satisfactory. My own has now been in use

> several years, and has given me no trouble ex-
i cept the rebuilding of a small furnace 9 inches
i square each year, the other work being only re-
; arrangements of the water supply.

INIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS jlffonn#*.
URBANA-CHAMPAiGN

Jan. 10, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

robust heads, with the seales broad and tinged
with purple. If seeds are used—and sometimes,
after a very severe winter, it has been found
necessary to raise seedlings because of the
losses sustained by frost—when the plants begin
to bear all the inferior varieties should be
pulled up. If seeds are sown early in
spring—say in February, in pots, in heat
—and the seedlings potted off when large
enough to handle, and afterwards shifted into
larger pots, and planted out early in May, all
the strongest will bear flower heads in autumn.
To accomplish this, they must have good
culture. The same thing will occur if we plant
strong offsets in April taken from old-
established plants in the open ground. To
obtain early heads, sometimes a strong plant or
two is lifted in autumn, and placed in a cool <
house, to which a little warmth is given in
February, which causes an early start to the
flowering stems. The

Best Time to Plant

Is in April in most places, as by that time all
frosts of a severe character will have passed.
In taking off the offsets, dig a trench round
the plants to expose the base, and show

A TERRACE WALL. robust heads, with the seales broad and tinged of all rushing in together before the half can be

This U a scene in a Continental public garden, w .‘ th P ur P le - 11 aeed " ^re uaed-and sometimes used. If in the spring when the flower stems
which as drawn is pretty, because of the fore- after tt ve 7 ,ey . ere wln ‘? r ' lt b “ been f °“? d first start away, the half or more of them are cut
ground and of the background, which the artist ? ece88ar y *° ™ ,8e . flings because of the out, a second growth will, if the plants possess
takes care to put in. Unhappily our terrace > 0M8S "ustamed by frost-when the plants begin the necessary vigour and are well fed, spring
gardens have generally no sucTh tender relief; to ,. be . ar a11 tbe mfe " or varieties ahou d be up, and come in later. But the best way,
aU is hard and angulaV about them, as a rule. P ul ! ed U P- - If •* edi are . B0W ° early inif securingasuccession.istofrequentlytrans-
Among the most striking examples of the dread- a P r *og-“y w February in pots, in heat plant in the way I have suggested, and to plant
ful terrace garden we have seen of late is the ~ and tbo . 8e “ Illo g 8 P?f ted °f wbe “ Iar ? e good-sized pieces, not little suckers,
garden of the Star and Garter, at Richmond, in , ’ after , wards 8hlt ] ad mt ° Summer Management.

M h d C New g lWl d s e tatuirv U h!^be , en'indMeS'hi the strongest wilfb^ar* flower held a'in autumn. This Artichoke has a large breadth of foliage,
sadN ew Koad statuary has been indulged in. To acco a pluh thi they muBt have good and requires a good deal of support. If not well

tz*te bu^here w^maat^not sneak 6 houses culture. The samo thing will occur if we plant the flower heads lack substance, and become
but here we must not speak. Our houses ff . * from old- hard and tough. In cutting the produce never

a ‘ ten ‘ ,on ;.,‘ here “ established plants in the open ground. To allow any to get too ol<Tfor use, as this is
p y J * -fT° r K t°f i hun T lth ° U 5 8p ? I j lmg °? T obtain early heads, sometimes^ strong plant or wasteful in a double sense. I have occasionally
gardens with absolutely uselessand costly work! tw0 fa lif J d in a i tu mn, and plJed^n a cool entered* kitchen garden and seen the Globe

house, to which a little warmth is given in Artichokes in flower. They have a very orna-
THE VILLA GARDEN. February, which causes an early start to the mental appearance, but flowering has a ruinous

.. ^ , flowering stems. The effect upon productiveness. Begin to cut the

( Continued from yage 548. J heads as soon as they are half grown, and do

7"""7 Best Time to Plant not allow any to get beyond that stage. It is

Tne Artlcnoke (Globe). Is April in most places, as by that time all better to cut them and cast them on the rubbish

The question might be asked—Why should the frosts of a severe character will have passed, heap than to leave them to get old; and as fast
rich people have all the best and most delicate- In taking off the offsets, dig a trench round as the heads are cut remove the stems which
flavoured fruits and vegetables, whilst the middle the plants to expose the base, and show bore them. If liquid manure is plentiful a good
and lower classes con- soaking will be bene-

tent themselves with ficial any time during

the period of bearing.
Mulching also with
manure will be a
great help.

Protecting in
Winter.

Though for the
most part the Globe
Artichokes are fairly
hardy in a well-
drained soil, they
should not be left to
pass through a severe
winter unprotected,
for if they survive
they will probably be
so much weakened as
to be of little use for
bearing purposes the
following j ear. From
1861 there were twelve
or fourteen j ears
without a frost suffi¬
ciently sharp to injure
them, but of course
sharp winters are sure
to visit us occasion¬
ally, without giving
notice of their coming,
and it is safest and
best to be prepared
and provided for
a low temperature.
The old way was to
cover up the rows of
Artichokes with long,
dry litter, and then

— — -- — raise a bank of earth

ture I am going to garden terrace wall with background of foliage. over the plants, and

recommend will oc- in this condition they

cupy the land four remained till the

years, the preparation should include trenching the best place to cut, and in making the growth commenced in spring. I do not
at least 2 feet or more in depth if the land will severance have a good piece of the old root stem think all this trouble and care are needed, but
bear it. There should also be given a liberal and ball with the young plant, bearing in mind it is a good plan to pack some burnt earth or
supply of manure, and the surface should be left that the stronger the plant, and the less check ashes 6 or 8 mches thick round the base of the
in a rough state till the end of March or begin- given, the sooner it will recover and start away plants, extending a few inches outside the
ning of April, this being the best time to plant, on its own independent existence. Plant in plant all round. This should be done early in
They should occupy an open, sunny situation, rows 4 feet apart, and at 3 feet intervals in the winter, and then when the frost sets in, cover
away from trees and buildings, and the heads rows, press the soil firmly about the roots of the plants over with litter, and leave it on as
should be cut for use when about half grown, the plants, and immediately afterwards mulch long as the frost continues ; but all the plants
Many people are disappointed with this with manure, and water in dry weather till they should be uncovered by the end of March, and
vegetable because the heads are served up when become established. The duration of the planta- the ashes, or burnt earth, or old tan, or wbat-
too old and have lost their delicate flavour and tion should not in a general way exceed four ever has been used to protect the base of the
succulency. years, and it is best to plant a row or two every plants, should be levelled down between tbo

Propagation. year, so as to have the plants of different ages rows, and with a dressing of manure be forked

There are two methods of doing this—viz., and degrees of strength, as this has an effect in. When the plants are crowded with growth in
by seeds and by offsets, the latter being the upon the period and the continuity of their spring, the weakest offsets should be removed,
best, as seeds cannot be relied upon to come bearing. Except among the best cultivators, it

always true. And the value of the heads is has been too much the custom to regard this varieties.

much enhanced if the scales which enclose them crop as a permanent one, which has destroyed its I have two varieties here, the green and the
are thick and fleshy. I have raised a good successional character. With old plantations purple-tinted, the latter, in my opinion, being
many seedlings in my time, and I have always the tendency is to produce all their crop at by far the best; but I have seen a good deal of

always true. And the value of the heads is has been too much the custom to regard this Varieties.

much enhanced if the scales which enclose them crop as a permanent one, which has destroyed its I have two varieties here, the green and the
are thick and fleshy. I have raised a good successional character. With old plantations purple-tinted, the latter, in my opinion, being
many seedlings in my time, and I have always the tendency is to produce all their crop at by far the best; but I have seen a good deal of
found a proportion of them to give inferior once and then go to rest and remain dormant, variety in seed lines, proving, if proof were
heads, therefore as seedlings are required to be But fairly frequent transplantation upsets this needed, that the best form of the cultivated

g rown and selected before their character can rest-and-be-thankful condition, and leads to Artichoke has been evolved by a long course of
e considered fixed, I give a preference in incessant activity and a perpetual bearing habit, culture from an inferior form, and that seed¬
making new plantations to offsets taken from a But something may be done to make old plants lings, at least some of them, are constantly
good variety. The beflt vAriel 1 ' Hpjii l&rge, bear later, and to get them out of the track harking back to their former condition, showing

^ rY URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

ns to offsets taken from 8

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 10, 18P5.

that some of the old, wild nature still remains
with them.

Oardoons.

Botanically the Cardoon is nearly related to
the Globe Artichoke, and in the early stages of
their growth the two plants resemble each other,
but beyond this all reaemblanoe ends, as in
culture and in use they arc diametrically
opposite. The Cardoon, like the Celery, is a
biennial, and is raised from seeds annually ;
but though, as regards the production of flowers
and seeds, its habit is biennial, as a vegetable
it really is an annual, and the seeds must be
sown every spring. Trenches are prepared as
if for Celery about the middle of May, and
about the same distances apart. In the bottom
of the trenches should be placed 6 inches of
thoroughly decayed manure mixed with earthy
oompost, in which some charred rubbish or
wood ashes form a part. This is mixed and
blended with the soil at the bottom of the
trench in such a manner as to leave a good tilth
on the surface to receive the seeds. If it does
not do this, some fine compost or surface soil
must be added to give the seeds a chance
of growing unchecked. When the trenches are
ready draw a drill along the bottom 1 inch
deep, and sow the seeds thinly, and when the
young plants appear thin out to 15 inches apart,
leaving, of course, the strongest to form the crop.
After this the same culture as is commonly

K ’ven to Celery will suffice, the main points
sing a good supply of water, and earthing-
up to blanch when the plants are strong enough.
To obtain a succession several sowings are made,
the first taking place in heat towards the end
of March ; the seeds are sown in small pots,
four or five seeds in each pot, and if all germi¬
nate, should be reduced to one, leaving, of course,
the strongest. The success of this first crop
will be in proportion to the attention it receives.
If the plants can be carried through without
experiencing any serious check, all will be well,
but if checked or starved in any way the plants
will bolt. The early raised plants should be
hardened off and planted in the trenches in
May. The first week in June is perhaps the
best season to sow the main winter supply, and
it should be sown in the trenches in patches
from 15 to 18 inches apart, reducing the plants
to one in each patch when they are large
enough, keeping them well supplied with water
to insure rapid growth, and mulching over the
roots with manure.

Earthing-up.

This should not be done till growth is nearly
completed, or at least till very considerable
progress has been made, as it certainly checks
growth, and no water can be given afterwards.
As regards the main crop, the earthing-up
will be done in October, as early in the
month as is convenient. Select a dry day
for the operation, draw the leaves together
carefully, and secure them with matting;
afterwards envelope the plants with hay bands,
and then build up the soil over the whole,
except a few inches of the points of the leaves
at the top. In about five or six weeks the
heads will be in a perfect condition for use, and
should be lifted a few at a time, as required.
Though they are sometimes lifted at the ap¬
proach of severe weather, and packed in earth
in some easily accessible place, 1 always think
both these and Celery are crisper and sweeter
when lifted fresh from the trench where grown,
and when that first freshness is once lost it never
returns. It is easy enough to keep out frost if
the rows are well covered up with dry Fern
or litter, which should always remain on till the
froBt has completely disappeared. Cardoonsare
not so much grown in this country as they were
thirty years ago. It is only where French
cookery is understood and appreciated that t ley
are asked for. Some day, doubtless, amid the
changes which seem impending, the Cardoon
will come to the fore again, and be made much
of. There are several varieties, but the best
and hardiest has its leaf-stalks armed with sharp
epines, and is of robust habit.

E. Hobday,

Chrysanthemum felicite. — This variety Is a
reflexod orange yellow flower, raised, I think, by Bon-
charlet. It is a semi-early, blooming in October. The
variety alluded to by *'T. Douglas” and “ W M..”
p. 659, is “ Felicity,” quite a distinct kind, also reflexed,
having pure white flowonL with a yellow centre. Both
are to be found in C&nffeU’s lUt—B plsej>i Majix.

Digitized by l n O QlP

INDOOR PLANTS.

INDIAN DAPHNE.

(daphne indica.)

Among sweet-scented plants there are few, if
any, that possess a more agreeable perfume than
this Daphne, and even the plant itself when not
in flower looks very pretty; its stout, shining,
handsome foliage gives it a distinct appearance.
It is neither so plentiful nor so well grown as it
ought to be. When met with it is oftener than
otherwise in the form of a solitary example
or two—most frequently in anything but a
flourishing condition. This is attributable to
the mistaken idea generally accepted concerning
tlio plant, viz., that it will only succeed when
grafted ; and as private growers seldom have
within their reach stocks suitable for it (it is
generally grafted on the Spurge Laurel,
Daphne Laureola), and often are not adepts
in the art of increasing such plants by this
means, they do not often attempt its cultivation.
Another cause of failure is giving it greenhouse
treatment continuously. This Daphne is a
native of China, and will live in the temperature
of an ordinary greenhouse ; but when no more
warmth is givenit than this the progress it makes
be are a very small proportion to that which
follows growing it in more heat. So great i9
the difference that an ordinary young grafted
or cutting-struck plant, if kept in an interme¬
diate or cool stove temperature continually for
two years, will in that time attaiu a size that
would not be reached in less than six or seven
years under the cool course of management.

Cuttings should consist of pieces of the
young shoots, 2 inches or 3 inches long, taken
off when the wood is about three-parts matured,
such as are usually obtainable towards mid¬
summer. Put several together in a pot or
seed-pan, half filled with sifted peat and sand,
the remainder all sand ; cover close with a
propagating glass, keep moist and shaded, and
place them in a cool pit or greenhouse until
the bottoms of the cuttings are callused
over, which will be in about two months;
then, if moved into a moderate stove tempera¬
ture of about 65 degs. or 70 degs., they will
soon strike. After that dispense with the
glasses, allowing the young Stock to remain
for a month or two longer, so as to get plenty
of roots before potting them off singly. Three-
inch pots will be largo enough at first, using
peat and a fair amount of sand. Keep them
through the winter in a temperature of about
55 degs. at night, giving no more water than is
necessary to keep the soil slightly moist. As
soon in the spring as the young plants have
made an inch or two of growth, pinch out the
points, so as to cause them to branch out, and
increase the heat a little as the weather
gets warmer. By May they should have made
enough roots to require more room. This
Daphne is not a vigorous or profuse rooting
plant, and will not bear nearly such large pots
as most things, but when grown in heat in
the way here advised it will require more root
space than when treated on the cool system ; a
2-inch shift will be enough. Now use some
well rotted manure with the peat and sand,
with enough crocks to admit of the water
applied passing away quickly. As the weather
gets warmer give more heat and plenty of light,
but shade a little when the sun is bright and admit
air in the day, as is required by the generality of
stove plants, and sprinkle them overhead in
the afternoons. Towards August they ought
to bear moving into pots 2 inches larger ; again
pinch out the points of the shoots, and continue
to treat as before until about the end of Sep¬
tember. They will require less water at the
roots, and no syringing, through the remaining
portion of the year and the beginning of the
next. A night temperature of 50 degs. or
55 degs. will answer. This will keep their roots
active, although they may not make much shoot
growth until March, when, if a little more
warmth is given, they will push vigorously,
making muon longer and stronger shoots than
hitherto. As soon as

The spring growth is partially solidified,
and the buds, which will be seen at the base of
the leaves, are formed, agatn pinch out the

K ints of the shoots. In May give pots 2 inches
•ger ; let them have additional warmth night
ana day, proportionate to the increase of solar
heat, shading and syringing as in the preceding

summer. They will now grow rapidly, pushing
several shoots from the back eyes, forming early-
stout bloom-buds at the points, with prominent
eyes at the base of many of the leaves. These
are a sure sign of strength in the plants, and when
the flowers have to be cut snch a condition is
necessary ; for when the shoots are not strong
enough to form these wood-buds, and the
trusses of bloom with the necessary portion of
wood attached are cut, it generally happens that
the shoot makes no further growth for the year.
If the intention is to get the plants largo in as
little time as possible, they must be treated
as to temperature through the autumn and
winter as before, and no attempt made to regu¬
late the time of their flowering by keeping them
cool; thus managed, they will bloom in the
early months of the year, after which they
should be moved into pots larger in proportion
to the amount of roots they are found to possess,
increasing the temperature as previously
advised at this season.' If all has gone well,
the growth they make this year, both in the
quantity and strength of the shoots produced,
will bo beyond all comparison better than is
possible under greenhouse treatment; and when
the flower-buds are plump and prominent, the
plants may be set in a pit or house kept at a
temperature such as that required by ordinary
greenhouse stock. Some may be put in warmth
at the commencement of the year, and others
kept cool, so as to give a succession of bloom,
and in all cases after flowering they should be
placed where they will get extra warmth,
similar to that usually given to Camellias that
are grown for early flowering ; in this way they
will continue in a strong healthy condition. The
plants arc much benefited by the use of manure
water while making their growth after they
have got well established, and all on afterwards
through the later stages of their existence.
They will last for a number of years, and when
the pots they occupy are deemed large enough,
a little of the surface soil may be removed each
spring, and some new added, care being taken
not to disturb the roots much. There are two
varieties, D. indica rubra and D. indica alba,
differing little except in the colour of their
flowers. T. Baines.

Imantophyllums and their culture.
—Some of the new varieties of Imantephyllum
miniatum are great improvements on the type,
as, for instance, splendens and Madame Reimers,
but even miniatum itself is not half so much
grown as it deserves to be for flowering during
the winter and spring months. Its dark green
foliage is of the most graceful descriptiou, and
large plants of it when in flower are noble
and commanding objects. Where plants of
small size are required they should be grown iu
from 5-inch to 7-inch pots. By this means a
long succession of flowers may he had, which
proves more useful in the majority of gardens
than having large numbers at one time on one
plant. In small pots the plants can be taste¬
fully arranged amongst their associates, and
thus produce a striking effect. Another good
property belonging to this plant is the case and
certainty with which a large stock of it can be
cultivated successfully with a minimum of
labour compared with that required to produce
many subjects that flower during the same
period of the year. Propagation is readily
effected by means of suckers and seed, both
being freely produced. The suckers spring
freely from the base of strong plants, and, as
seedlings vary, that is the best way of raising
good varieties. The suckers should not be tak en
off too small ; they make more progress when
attached to the parent plant for a time than
when severed. However, when large enough
they should be taken off and placed in 4-inch or
5-inch pots, according to their size. If they are
rootless, to commence with, place in the centre
of the pots a little coarse sand for the base of
the suckers to rest upon. If the Boil is in a
proper state as regards moisture, no water will
bo needed for a few days. They should be set
in a warm structure until root growth com¬
mences ; if bottom heat can bo given, roots will
form more quickly than without it, but it is not
absolutely necessary.

Specimen plants.— It i3 one of the signs
of the times that formally trained specimens of
plants are a good deal loss popular now thaa
formerly. Formality in the Qtfw'er garden and

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jan. 10, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

5

formality in the flower-pot are both at a dis¬
count, and the saving of labour and anxiety
effected by the abolition of so much tying and
■taking is something to be really thankful for.
The wearisome hours that used to be spent on
■uch subjects as Heaths, Azaleas, Epacris, and
nearly all hard-wooded stove and greenhouse
plants were oftener than otherwise taken from
the evenings and mornings of the young men,
who received no other remuneration than the
credit that was supposed to be earned by the
task. Many kinds of plants need some assist¬
ance in the way of stakes and ties ; but the
informal shaped plant makes by far the hand¬
somest specimen, if we would only think so,
from an artistic point of view, and, besides,
there is really no more justiflcation for training
our indoor Azaleas and Rhododendrons and
other plants than there is for training the
bushes that grow in our shrubberies. The
Azalea has long been a favourite subject of the
“specimen” grower, and the height of his
ambition has been to produce a plant of as
perfect and formal a shape as a sugar-loaf, and
if he could have so many flowers upon it as to
render the foliage—Nature’s setting to the
flower—invisible, he was all the better pleased.
There are, however, no handsomer little bushes
than those compact little Azaleas with the
informal tops that come from Belgium, and
which are now beginning to make our cool
houses gay, and the best plan is for the culti¬
vator to keep them in the same bush form as
long as they live. You may cut as many flowers
from them as you please without disfiguring
them, for, the growth being free and natural,
they fill up again the same season and look as
well as ever, and all without the aid of a stake
or a tie.—S.

Arum Lilies. —These have become very
popular for church decoration, their large white
spathes, backed up by their handsome foliage,
being simply perfection for single vases and
altar decorations. Various methods of growing
these Arum Lilies are pursued by different
cultivators, but I find the following plan a good
one for producing a good supply of large blooms
during winter and spring. As soon as they are
divested of their flowers and the weather is
warm enough to allow of their being set out-of-
doors without injury, they are placed in some
sheltered spot, such as close to a wall, and after
a week’s exposure in the open air they are
planted out between rows of bush fruits, the
shelter from wind and partial shade suiting
them admirably. If planted about the begin¬
ning of June they soon commence to send up
new foliage, massive stems, and short sturdy
stalks. While out-of-doors they should be well
supplied with liquid manure, as they are gross
feeders and abundant rooters. In September
let them be carefully lifted and potted, giving
them rich soil, and if watered ana set in a shady
position they will hardly experience any check
from removal. Some of the most forward of
them will be showing flower, and if set in a light
airy house will bloom profusely. The flowering
period may be hastened or retarded, according
to the date at which the blooms are required, by
applying more or less heat, but they do best in
a temperature of about 55 degs.—J. G.

Greenhouse Rhododendrons. — The
different hybrid greenhouse Rhododendrons of
the jasminiflorum and Princess Royal type
embrace now almost all shades of colour, from
the pure white typical jasminiflorum and the
slightly-flushed Princess Alexandra to the deep,
bright-coloured Duchess of Edinburgh and
Duchess of Connaught. The first of these two
has flowers more shaded with orange than
Dachess of Connaught, but in all respects they
greatly resemble each other, the blooms of
both being of a rich glowing red colour. The
comparatively small blooms of this type of Rho¬
dodendrons fit them better for use in a cut state
among smaller arrangements of cut flowers than
their larger and more massive brethren; besides
which they bloom freely in a dwarf state (even
in 5 inch or 6-inch pots pretty little flowering
bushes can be produced), while they may be
almost put down as perpetual bloomers, for, if
wintered in an intermediate temperature,
they will continue to grow and flower at inter¬
vals throughout the year. The class of Rhodo¬
dendrons is year by year becoming more popu¬
lar, and doubtless the time is not far distant
when we shall meet with them in all gardens of
any pretensions whatever/^-A , ^ | ~

Digitized b/\jOUQlC

THE BLUE MARGUERITE.

(AOATH.«A CCELESTIS.)

This forms a worthy companion to the white and
yellow Chrysanthemum (C. frutescens and its
variety Etoile d’Or) now known by almost every¬
body as the white and yellow Marguerites. The
blue one has only lately come to the fore as a
candidate for popular favour, although it has
existed in collections here and there for many
years under various names, to which reference
will be made presently. In habit, indeed in
everything, the blue Marguerite is a long way
removed from the Chrysanthemum, but in the
selection of fashionable names for popular plants
botanical distinctions are, as a rule, not too
closely attended to, and therefore the above
name may perhaps be allowed to stand for the
Agathcea. The annexed woodcut shows the
habit and floriferous character of this plant,
though too much reduced to convey any idea of
the handsome appearance of well-grown, well-
flowered specimens of it. A. ccelestis is a shrubby
perennial, forming, under favourable conditions,
a bush about 4 feet high and as much through.
In the south of France it is extensively grown
out-of-doors, and we learn thatrfew plants of its
kind surpass it even in that happy home for
most plants. It is trimmed over with the shears
every spring, and is thus made to form a bush
and to produce thousands of its pale blue flowers.
The leaves are opposite, obovate, slightly pilose,
and the flowers are produced on terminal scapes
some 6 inches in length, every twig bearing at *
least one flower-head. These heads are made up I
of lilac-blue ray-florets, of which a single row

amelloides, under which name it is often alluded
to. Much disappointment has, doubtless, been
caused by the confusion of these two plants with
each other, which has led to the annual being
supplied for the blue Marguerite. B.

Uf. *

Agathiiia coolestia.

surrounds the bright yellow central ones. They

may be likened to a Paris Daisy with the petals
blue instead of white. For the cultivation of
this Agattuea in pots the following directions
will be found useful. Cuttings strike freely at
any time of the year, so that successional batches
may be put in about every month. If wanted
for winter and spring flowering, spring-struck
cuttings should be grown on in a cold frame for
a time, and placed out-of-doors with the pots
plunged in ashes in summer, and by frequently
pinching out the points of the shoots, cutting
out the flowers before they open, and keeping the
plants well supplied with water, handsome little
bushes will be formed. On the approach of cold
weather move the plants into a cool house or
frame, and induce them to flower by the appli¬
cation of a little heat, according to the time at
which the flowers are desired. The Kew plants,
we believe, are, or were until recently, the only
representatives of the true Agathnea ccelestis in
gardens here; what is supposed to be the same
plant is really the annual Charieis heterophylla—
syn., Kaulfussia amelloides. These plants at Kew
were raised from cuttings received direct from
Nice. What we have stated will, in conjunction
with the illustration, be sufficient for the identi¬
fication of the blue Marguerite or Agathcea
ccelestis. Charieis heterophylla is a small hardy
annual, cultivated at Kew and elsewhere in the
open border. The stem and leaves are pubescent,
the latter alternate above, opposite below, mem¬
braneous, and altogether rather like those of the
Agathrea. In height it never exceeds 6 inches,
and it always remains herbaceous. The flowers
are blue and yellow, but smaller than those of
the Agathaea ; the wiry stem of the latter always
distinguishes it from the Charieis. As has been •
stated, another name for this plant is Kaulfussia

Growing Amaryllises. —The plants will
require just enough water during winter to keep
the soil from becoming dust-dry, and in January
they may be repotted, three plants in 5-inch and
6-inch pots. The plants will not be large at
this time, but they will make good-sized bulbs,
some of them as large as hen’s eggs. They
require the same treatment during summer as
the ordinary stock, and should be allowed to
rest in winter by the house being kept at a green¬
house temperature, water being entirely with¬
held. At potting time in January each bulb
should be potted separately, using the same
sized pots as heretofore. A few of these will
flower during the season, and sometimes
strong flowering plants are produced from the
seeds in nineteen months. As a rule not more
than 5 per cent, of the plants will flower in
eighteen or nineteen months from the time of
sowing. The seeds of Amaryllis ripen in our
hothouses about the end of July, sooner or later,
according as the flowers set early or late. When
the seed pods open and show the black seeds
inside they may be gathered and laid out in a
dry airy place for two or three days. The seeds
do not take long to vegetate in a gentle hotbed,
and in three weeks the plants may be potted
off, putting about a dozen in a 5-inch or 6-inch
pot. The pots should be plunged in a tan bed,
and at that season of the year (September) but
little artificial heat will be required. We grow
our plants in what might be termed a cool stove
temperature.—J. D.

Window plants in glazed pots.—A
few years ago I was in Norway, and was par¬
ticularly struck with the healthy appearance
of the Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, and Myrtles in
the windows of the town houses. These plants
were all in glazed pots of the ordinary Bhape,
but coloured outside brown, yellow, and green,
with glaze. Some had a lattice pattern of
yellow on a rich brown ground, which looked
extremely well, and a rustic pattern was made
by putting fine gravel on the glaze while soft,
and baking it all together. Saucers were made
in the same pattern to correspond. I was so
pleased with them, that I brought home a
dozen with me, and for the past two years have
had Palms, Hyacinths, Narcissi, Lilies, and
other plants growing in them in my sitting
room. These plants have all done remarkably
well, and the pretty Norwegian pots look much
better in the window than our unglazed ones.
—R. J. G. R.

Freesia refracta alba as an annual.
—I call F. refracta alba the refractory Freesia,
as I dare say many of your readers have found
it to be. But let me give them a hint; let it
be grown as an annual, and they will have
no more trouble. I sowed seed in February of
last year in a shallow seed pan, and had quan¬
tities of bloom in December. Professor Foster
gave me this hint, and it is worth noting.—A.
Rawson.

Balsams. —These are almost indispensable in
summer, when, if well grown, they make a grand
display and fill up a void as few other plants
can. To have them in bloom early and keep
up a long continued succession it is necessary
to make two or three sowings. The first should
be made about the latter end of February, but
as the plants are liable to draw when raised
while the days are short, it is important that
they be placed, immediately after the seeds
germinate, on a shelf well up to the light, and in
a house where the temperature ranges between
60 degs. and 80 degs., a degree of heat which
Balsams enjoy. As soon as they begin to show
the rough leaf the plants should be potted
singly in 3-inch pots, and in doing this it is a
good plan to sink the stem an inch or so in the
soil, and keep on dropping it at each potting, till
at the final shift the lower branches are brought
on a level with the rim of the pot. This makes
the plants dwarf and bushy, and benefits them
in other ways, as they root out round the buried
stems, and the great quantity of feeders there
formed adds to their strength Balsams require
rich soil, and if the manure to be used be well
decayed the proportion may f'tye equaT”to

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILL USTRATED

[Jan. 10, 1885.

that of the loam. Although the position just
mentioned is most suitable for the plants now,
by-and- bye, as the season becomes more advanced,
they may be grown in perfection in a pit or
frame, plunged in fermenting material, the moist
heat from which is highly congenial to them, and
just meets their requirements.— S.

White Christmas Rose (Helleborus
niger).—Grown in pots, the Helleborus is one
of the moat valuable and showy plants which
we possess for enlivening the conservatory at
this time of the year. Its large white,
Eucharia-liko blossoms, which last from a week
to ten days, are valuablo alike for the decoration
of the conservatory or for cutting purposes. I
purchased a plant in August last, and potted it
in a compost of loam and sand, four parts of the
former to one of the latter, and then placed it
in a partially-shaded position, where it remained
until the end of October, during which time I
gave it copious supplies of water. I then re¬
moved it to a house, the temperature of which
averaged 45 degs. to 50 degs., applying liquid
manure twice a week, at the same time con¬
tinuing the supply of clear water, and in three
weeks or so was rewarded by seeing the buds
gradually expand and burst into bloom, and it
has been a perfect sight ever since. When
grown out-of-doors the flowers become spotted
with dirt and soot, aud, in addition to this, the
flower stems are very short, but these draw¬
backs are entirely done away with by growing
it under glass in the manner above described,
and I advise all those -who have not yet tried
the Helleborus this way to do so without
further delay. I shall increase my stock of this
variety, and shall also add some others referred
to in the interesting article on “ Seedling
Christmas Roses ” which appeared in your
paper some weeks ago.— Sydney Hallam,
Wilkinson Street , Sheffield,

Iris reticulata in pots.— What a charm¬
ing plant this is for cultivating in pots ! In the
winter I put four bulbs in a medium-sized
flower-pot, using a good light leafy soil. They
soon started into growth, rooted freely, and arc
now bloomiug. What a delightful plant it is
for a cold houso 1 Sheltered from biting winds
and disfiguring rains, it takes on an exquisite
hue of purple, especially on the broad lip ; and
when the sunlight falls upon it the colour
becomes so intensified as to be quite striking.
How sweetly fragrant, too, it is I Really,
spring flowers are delightful, and they appear to
be doubly welcome as the gloom of winter gives
way before lengthening days and an increasing
duration of sunshine. When this Iris is grown
in the open air it requires and deserves some
shelter from the cutting winds of March.—R. D.

1 2461. —Heating conservatory. —Much

depends upon the arrangement of tho house,
but so far as staging, doorways, &c., allow, a
4-iuoh flow and return pipe carried all round
the house—say 70 feet or SO feet—would be
sufficient to maintain a temperature of 60 degs.
in winter, which should be the extremo limit.
A temperature nearer 50 degs. than 60 degs.
would be found best for general purposes. If
you have another houso for growing purposes
you would, of course, transfer the plants from
it to the conservatory as they came into bloom,
and by this means secure a supply of flowers at
all seasons. I would prefer a span roof to a
lean to for the working house, and in as open a
tituation as possible.—K., Southend.

12355.— Echeverias in winter.— It is
necessary to shelter them through the winter
mouths, as if left in the open ground they are
liable to be destroyed in time of severe frost.
They will bear about 15 degs. of frost. Our
practice is to take them up about the last week
in October, shake all the soil away, and store
them in a cool, airy place, just covering them
if very hard, protracted frosts occur. On every
possible occasion they get plenty of air. They
will do very well in a shed or in a cool room.
In March they are put into the open, just
sheltering them from hard frosts, and in April
they are planted out permanently. Echeverias
being succulents, require no soil nor moisture
through the winter. We always allow ours to
bloom, and very pretty they look, lasting good
until August.— J. Coknhill.

1 2332.—Moss for Orchids. —By no means
use tho common green Moss, a9 it soon
becomes sour, anji' tho tender, sdbculent roots

Digitized '910

of Orchids become unhealthy in it. Sphagnum
is tho only kind of Moss which lias been found
to remain sweet when constantly watered. It
should be used in a dry state for mixing with
the soil, but the plants should be surfaced with
it in a living state.—J. C. B.

123S0.— Utilising greenhouse border.
—As the border is shaded in summer it would
not do for flowering plants, but Ferns would do
well there, the shade and cool atmosphere being
just the right thing for them. Christmas Roses
brought in in November would bloom well in
winter, and some Chrysanthemums would help
to make the place cheerful up to Christmas.
Bedding plants, such as Geraniums, Verbenas,
Ageratums, Lantanas, &c., can be wintered in
cool Grape houses, as they only require to be
kept from frost; and bulbs of many kinds, such
as Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, Narcissi, &c.,
should be potted at once, and would make the
place gay in spring. Violets and Mignonette
grown in the open air in summer and early
autumn will give fragrance through the winter
and spring.—J. C. B.

12414. — Amaryllis and Olianthus
Dampieri.— To get full cultural directions
for the Amaryllis it will be necessary to study
Gardening as it comes out from week to week.
It is now quite time to repot the bulbs. I use
a compost of two parts loam to one of peat,
with a little decayed manure added to it. If
eat cannot be obtained some leaf-mould may
o used instead. I tried to grow them in pure
loam with a small quantity of sand and decayed
manure, and was fairly successful. Tho bulbs
will do well in a temperature of 50 degs., but
after they are potted it is necessary to be very
careful in supplying them with water. Ours
have the pots plunged in a tan bed, the tem¬
perature of the house being 45 degs. to 50degs.,
but no water is supplied to the roots for two or
three weeks after the bulbs are potted. If the
bulbs are potted about the middle of January, a
large proportion of them will be in flower by
the middle of March. Twelve of the very best
are : Achilles, Acramanni puicherimma, Alexan¬
dra, Cholsonii, Clarinda, Dr. Masters, Empress
of India, Junius, Lady Musgrave, John Heal,
Sir Garnet Wolseley, and Thomas Moore. All
the above can be purchased, some of them being
very reasonable in price. Clianthus puniceus,
and a better variety of it named magnificus, is
the Glory Pea of New Zealand, a very handsome
and easily-grown greenhouse plant. The plants
should be grown near the glass in an ordinary
greenhouse, and should be potted in loam with
the addition of some turfy peat. Being a
vigorous growing plant it should not be pinched
for pot room. It produces its vigorous clusters
of flowers early in the summer. Red spider is
passionately fond of the leaves, but it can be
kept off them by frequent syringing during tho
summer months. C. Dampieri should be raised
from seeds, when the plants are well established,
by being potted off singly ; they may be planted
out or flowered in pots. They succeed best
planted out in a bed and trained to the roof of
the greenhouse.—J. D. E,

12396.— Vines and Roses for green¬
houses. —You may grow vines and Rose trees
in the same house, and both with a little
management will do very well. If you want
two kinds, plant Black Hamburgh aud Foster’s
Seedling, which do well together; and jou
cannot have a better Rose than Niphetos, the
most perpetual bloomer of all the Teas, and by
its moderate growth well suited to a small
greenhouse. The best arrangement will be to
plant the vines together, setting one of them
about 3 feet from the end of the house, and
allowing 3 feet from vine to vine. The Robc,
if allowed to develop, will fill the remaining
portion. Both vines and Roses require plenty
of light and air through the summer months.—
J. C. B.

12383.— Vallota purpurea.— It is not an
unusual occurrence for the Vallota to ripen
seeds, and they will come up freely enough, but
it is of the utmost importance that they be sown
as soon as ripe. If the plant remains in a cool
house through the winter the seed will ripen
about March or April. W hen ripe the capsule
opens, and then the seed should be at once
sown. Sow in light sandy soil, and take care
that it never becomes dry until the young
plants appear. When up, gradually inure them
to the full light, shading from hot sun. Take

care to avoid over-watering, but do not let the
soil become quite dry. They may remain in
the same pot for three years. — J. C. B.

12363.— Japanese Chrysanthemums. —
Out of the hundreds of varieties of Japanese
Chrysanthemums it is not easy to recommend
any twelve as being beat. If, however, you
want a dozen easily grown, flowering over the
longest period, you will find tho under-men¬
tioned useful. They should be put in as cuttings
now and stopped twice before being placed in
their flowering pots, which will induce them to
throw out a number of branches. Upon each
branch allow only one flower bud to remain,
takiug the largo bud at the end for the purpose
—all the side buds must be picked out. Where
a dozen plants arc grown medium-sized flowers
of good form aud substance are much better
than bunches of badly-formed half-developed
flowers often seen as the result of disbudding
being entirely neglected. First on my list 1
would place Madame C. Desgrange, a very large
pure white variety that conics out long before
tho others ; James Salter, a rosy mauve flower
with broad, twisted petals; Lady Selborne, a
beautiful pure white sport of the above, flower¬
ing at the same time, after Madame' C. Des-
grange aud before any of the following, unless
it is Alexandra Dufour, a free-growing, rosy
purple variety, which has been greatly admired
since its introduction two or three years ago,
when it received a R.H.S. special certificate ;
Elaine, pure white ; L’Africaine (syn. George
Gordon), vivid crimson and very free flowering,
said to be a sport from Elaine ; Flambeau,
orange crimson, very free and fine ; Madame
Bertie Rendatler, described in catalogues as
orange yellow, flushed red. Gold Thread
should occupy a place as a curiosity. In colour
it ranges from yellow to red, the petals are thin
threads, and all twisted about like corkscrews.
Delicata, a pale lilac flushed with white, is a
good, easily-grown variety. Fair Maid of
Guernsey, large, pure white, coming in rather
late. Ethel, a creamy white, with petals quite
stiff and pointed, forming a cup-shaped flower,
will come in after Christmas if grown in a cool
house. Although white predominates in my
list over coloured varieties, such a dozen as
named above enables a small grower to have a
show all through the dark dull days at the end
of the year, or, say, from September to
January. Although not part of the question, I
would recommend every amateur to grow Snow¬
drop. It is one of the smallest of Pompones,
pure white, and, if constantly stopped at all
the points up to the end of July, will produce
bunches of its peculiar little round flowers till
late in the winter. This to my mind is the
most useful of all Chrysanthemums for cutting.
—E. G., Hull.

12390.— Martynia fragrans.— This is of
but annual duration, eo that any attempt to
row it as a perennial or biennial could only
ave failure for result. It may be treated &s a
tender or hardy annual, but in the latter case
should not be sown before the middle of April,
and must then have a sunny sheltered spot, as
it demands more warmth to come to perfection
than the generality of annuals. It also does
better in light soils than in those which arc
naturally colder. The best way, however, is to
sow under glass in March, and prick out the
young plants in good ground when large enough
to handle. This Martynia makes a good pot
plant, being much grown in some places for
conservatory decoration in summer.— Byfleet.

12457. — Lantanas and Lasiandra
macrantha —Lantanas do best in a cool
greenhouse where they get plenty of air during
spring and summer. They also require a
maximum of sunshine, and for this reason they
thrive w’ell in hot, dry weather, bedded out in
the open in summer. Where Verbenas fail
Lantanas may be used as substitutes. During
the wiuter they should be rested, much in the
way of Fuchsias, merely giving a little water
now and then to keep the roots from perish¬
ing and the wood from shrivelling. In
February they should be pruned back rather
hard, and when they havo made shoots about
an inch in length, having previously allowed
the soil to dry out, as much of the old
mould as possible should be shaken away,
potting in clean pots in good sandy loam. Place
, in a light position, giving no artificial heat, but
I allowing the plants to coma on with plenty of

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jan. 10, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

573

air. When the pots are well filled with roots
the plants may be shifted, but not later than
July. If not shifted, give frequent doses of
weak liquid manure from the time the pots
become well filled with fibres. Treated in
this way, Lantanaa will grow strongly and
bloom abundantly, and the same plants may be
kept for years, as, being of a wiry, hard-wooded
nature, there is no difficulty in keeping them
when at rest. Large specimens in 8-inch pots
are very effective. Cuttings strike readily in
warmth in spring, or later on in a frame. It is,
however, very important that only the tender
succulent terminal shoots be chosen, as, like
Verbenas, when the wood becomes wiry the
cuttings do not root with freedom, and the
youDg plants obtained from them lack the
vigour of constitution necessary to the forma¬
tion of healthy specimens. Lasiandra macrantha
requires a rather higher resting temperature,
bat must not be coddled when making its
growth. It should be merely Bhaded from hot
iun and given plenty of air. As regards
pruning and potting, treat as advised for
L&ntanas. The typical form of this plant does
not flower very freely, but there is a free-bloom¬
ing variety of it.— Byfleet.

- Some years ago I planted a few Lantanas

in the open ground, in ordinary garden loam
commonly found in most London gardens. These
plants bloomed freely, and in August measured
18 inches across. Considering that they were
received by letter post, and, consequently, small
plants when planted out in May, “ Mrs. G.
Wedgwood ” may be tempted to try the outdoor
cultivation of these handsome plants, rather
than the one she has adopted.—A. E. A., Slam-
ford Hill.

- Take fre-h cutting from your LanUna next

oiooth ; th-y will flower all summer. Lasiandra macrantha
mjuirea stove heat, and ought to be in flower now.—
OOHJRAXDB.

1242*2.— Pink-coloured Dracaenas. —
These will not do in an ordinary greenhouse,
the temperature there being too low for
them except during the summer time. They
require a constaut temperature of .50 degs. to
55 degs. through the winter. If you have no
warm house, place the plant in a living room,
and you may succeed in keeping it in fairly
good health, although these coloured Draca?nas
are not the best of room plants. The great
point is to keep the soil moist without over-
watering, only giving water when the soil ap-

{ iroaches dryness, and to regularly sponge the
oliage, both upper and under sides, twice a
week with clean tepid water. A light position,
but screened from hot sun, is necessary.—J. C.,
By fleet,

- This plant will not succeed all the year round in a

yreenhouse. It is a stove plant.—J. I). E.

12439.— Camellia culture.— Camellias do
not require artificial heat at all, as they are
hardier than the common Laurel, being success¬
fully grown in many parts of the country in the
open ground ; at the same time they may be
brought along into bloom in winter by giving
them a constant temperature of about 50 degs.
If they get more than this the buds are apt to
fall. The great point is to induce them to make
an early growth by closing early in the after¬
noon, and syringing freely in fine weather,
thoroughly maturing the wood by leaving air on
night and day as soon as the terminal bud
begins to form. Camellias do not require to be
often shifted, only when the pots get full of
roots. Peat and loam, with one-sixth of white
sand, forms a good compost. April is the time
to repot.— J. Cornhill.

-They will bloom well In a house without arti¬
ficial heat. The Camellia is quite as hardy as tho Common
Laurrl. Artificial heat causes tho buds to drop off
sometimes. The buds never dropoff in an unheated house
when the plants are planted out and established in tho
borders. The best time to pot them is just os they
start into growth.—J. D. E

12459.— Lapageria alba.— This does not
require warmth, being nearly or quite hardy in
Bomo of the warmer counties of England. It
delights iu a cool moisture-laden atmosphere in
summer, and does not thrive well in a house
where an arid current of air prevails. In a cool
greenhouse fronting north or east Lapagerias
thrive best. They may either be planted in a
prepared border, or be grown along till they
come into large pots. By the former method
they naturally flower best. Fibrous peat with
one-fifth of white sand ip-i^forms the b®t com-

Digitized by CjQOQlC

post, and the pots or border should have a good
layer of potsherds or broken brick rubble to
ensure perfect drainage.—J. C., Byjlcct.

- This plant does best In a greenhouse where the

frost is just kept out. It succeeds best in a turfy peat, and
will do either planted out or in pots.—J. I). E.

12451.—Parings of horses' hoofs.— They form a
very rich manure, and before they are used for Chrysan¬
themums in pots should be cut up into very small pieces,
and all the bits of iron must be picked out from amongst
them. It is better also to mix them with the soil two or
three months beforo it is required for use. They should
be used with caution in the soil.—J. D. E.

12455 —Rhododendrons. —Six of tho best hardy
Rhododendrons are Concession, Frederick Waterer, H. W.
Sargent, Joseph Whitworth, Mrs. John Clutton, Lady ItoHe.
It would be easy enough to select six or a dozen more
equally good. Six of the best greenhouse kinds arc Coun¬
tess of Haddington, Duchess of Connaught, Exonieusis,
Edgeworthi, Taj lori, and Veitchianum.—J. L>. E.

12403.—Soil for potting Lilies.— Pot your Lilium
auratum in a mixture of peat, leaf-mould, and sand, with
an inch of potsherds at the bottom of the pot, keeping tho
bulbs near the surface, and pot firmly.— Corisande.

-Two parts fibrous peat in small lumps, rejecting

all the dusty particles, and ono part turfy loam, with one-
sixth of tho whole bulk of white saud forms the best
compost for Lilium auratum speciosuin, Browni, Krameri,
and others of a similar nature. Give good drainage and
do not pot hard, giving but little water until they come
well into growth.—J. U. B.

- Perhaps the best compost in w-hich to pot L. aura¬
tum is one of equal parts turfy peat and turfy loam, with
a fourth part of decayed stable or cow’s manure added to
it.—J. D. E.

12404.—Cultivation of Pelargoniums —Plants
now in 4-inch pots, if they arc healthy aud doing well,
should be potted into 0 inch pots in the spring. They
would flower well in 0-inch pots. The potting soil should
be a fourth part of turfy loam, ono pait leaf-mould, one
part decayed manure, and, if possible, some crushed bones
should be added to it—J. D. E.

1243C.—Sweet-scented Verbena —Leave it alone
till April with a watering once a week ; then either repot
firmly hi good 9oil and in 7-inch pot, or strike cuttings
fromit if it has any healthy little bhoots. If you have a
garden plant it out in June for the summer.— Corisanub.

12433.— Scar boro’ Lily and Aster seed— Throw
away the Aster seed and buy a fresh packet to sow iu
April. Sow the Lily sreds in a pot next month, give
bottom heat, prick out when an inch high, and again
when they begin to crowd each other. They will flower
the third year.— Corisandk.

- Seeds of the Scar boro’ Lily thould be sown as soon

as ripe, otherwise they do not come np. They ripen in a
general way about March, and should be sown direct from
the pod in light sandy soil, and kept moist and in the
dark until the young plants appear. Some of the Aster
seeds will probably germinate. All that you can do is to
sow them at the proper time.—J. C. B.

12410 .— Stove for greenhouse.— For a small house
0 feet by 7 feet you can hardly do better than get a small
mineral oil heater, such os are advertised in this journal.
The cost would be a few shillings, and it would burn
without attention for eight to twelve hours according to
size.—K. _

DESTROYING RED SPIDER.

In order to eradicate that troublesome plant
pest, the red spider, the gardener must use a
more drastic remedy than fumigation with To¬
bacco, which is of little avail in this case. One
of the best remedies is Gishurst compound, used
in a weak state—say from two to four ounces
to a gallon of soft water ; the smaller quantity
for soft-wooded plants, increasing to the larger
quantity for hard-wooded things.

An old gardener once gave me the following
recipe: “ 2i lb, of soft soap, £ lb. of leaf To¬
bacco, i lb. of bitter Aloes, and 8 gallons of soft
wator ; boil the Tobacco-leaf and soft soap in
bags of some thin material, to obviate the
trouble of straining. To two gallons of the
above solution add one of water, which will
render it fit for use. ” Many have found it of
great service to pick up odds and ends of
gardening information from the fathers of the
craft, and one of these, twenty years ago, gave
the following as his antidote for green fly:
“1 lb. of Quassia chips, four gallons of soft
water, boil for two or three hours and strain;
after boiling, add £ lb of soft soap.”

The two foregoing cures are no doubt valuable
for green and Mack fly on Roses, fruit trees, &c.,
and can be applied by means of a soft brush.
Either will also destroy mildew, especially the
latter mixture. In tho case of red spider on
vines—and this occurs in almost every vinery,
however well-managed—the most decided anti¬
dote is sulphur. This may be applied by
sprinkling dry sulphur on the pipes, or by
making a paint of sulphur, clay, and water,
with which the pipes should be painted. But
care must be taken that the heat be not raised
at the same time, for if the pipes are hotter than
the hand can bear, fumes dangerous to vegetation
will be given off. Red spider and mildew are
often very troublesome on Peach walls. After
the trees have been nailed, it is a good plan to

mix G lb. of sulphur with water, toning it down
by the application of soot, and applying it to
the wall with the garden engine or syringe. It
is best to put it on thickest on the bottom of tho
tree, so that the vapour from the sulphur can
ascend among the foliage.

Mealy bug and scale, both hothouse pests,
cannot be destroyed by fumigating, but only by
the constant application of proper remedies.
“These are terrible plagues,” remarks a good
authority. “ In the case of a lot of stove plants
badly affected, the desperate course of com¬
mitting the whole to the lire, and then repairing
and painting the house, is often the cheapest iu
the end.” Either of the remedies above given
may be used with good results, and a good
washing with soft soap and water is frequently
found efficacious in the case of a miscellaneous
collection of stove plants.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

CABBAGES AND CAULIFLOWERS.

If Cabbage seeds are sown too early in the
summer, the plants often bolt in spring instead
of hearting. Several of ours have done so ;
their seeds were sown the third week in July,
and the plants were put into their permanent
quarters the second week in October. It is
sometimes desirable to make a sowing about the
middle or end of February. In that case pro¬
cure a large seed-pan or box, fill it with light,
rich soil, and thereon sow thinly and cover with
fine soil, watering at the same time. Place the
boxes in a warm greenhouse, or upon a hotbed
until the seeds germinate, when a cooler posi¬
tion, and plenty of light, and ventilation on all
favourable occasions, should be provided for them
to keep the young plants from becoming drawn
up weakly. When large enough to handle let
them be pricked off into boxes, or into a pre¬
pared bed in a frame. Where Potatoes are
grown in frames or in pits, a few Cabbage seeds
might be sown among them and covered thinly
with soil. When the seedlings have made their
third leaf or so, prick them off like those put
into boxes, and when large enough transplant
them into a piece of rich ground in a sheltered
position until they can be planted out in open
quarters. The best varieties for early sowing
are Heartwell Marrow, Cocoa-nut, and Little
Pixie.

Red Dutch Cabbaoe. —Many defer sowing
this variety until well on in the spring, but
occasionally it should be done in February ; if
left until April when seeds of other Brassicas
are sown the crop will be late, and fine, close,
firm head8, which are requisite for pickling,
will not be forthcoming. In some establish¬
ments Red Cabbages are cooked like other
hearting Cabbages, and in some parts of Scotland
no farmer’s or cottager’s garden is considered
complete without a row or two of Red Cabbages.
Some sow them when they sow their Cauli¬
flower seeds in August. They plant the seed¬
lings under a hand-light or in a sheltered posi¬
tion at the bottom of a south wall, and trans¬
plant them into a more open place in the spring
in order to make the plants strong and stockv
before planting them where they are to stand.
Seeds sown in February require the same treat¬
ment as that bestowed on ordinary Cabbages.

Cauliflowers. —Between the first week in
March and the end of April make one or two
sowings of Cauliflower ; after that it is useless
sowing Cauliflower seeds, as we are almost sure
to get autumn frosts before the heads come to
perfection, and, owing to the tenderness of the
plants, they seldom yield a crop, Veitch’s
Autumn Giant coming in to take their place.
Several different varieties may be sown at once,
but the two best sorts for late crops are Early
London and Walcheren. The latter is a good
strong grower and not so liable to button as
some of the other varieties. Seeds sown early
should be put either in seed pans or boxes in
light rich soil; place them in a temperature
from 50 degs. to 55 degs. until they germinate,
when they must be placed in a cooler tem¬
perature. Keep the plants as near the glass as
possible in order to keep them dwarf. As soon
as large enough to handle, prick them off into
boxes filled with loamy soil, or in a frame upon
a gentle bottom heat, giving them air on mild
days. After being well hardened off, they may
be planted in a piece cf prepared ground in

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

574

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan ID 1885.

Some sheltered corner ; place them 4 inches
apart, where they may remain until large enough
to plant out In the permanent quarters in the
open garden. W. Christison.

IVoodham Hall , Wokinq .

ONION CULTURE.

The rule with many growers is to sow seed for
the main crop or keeping Onions as early in
March as possible. A better rule is to sow the
seed as soon as the ground is in a fit state for
its reception, whether this be early or late in
March, or even as late as the middle of April.
To secure an evenly heavy crop the ground must
be rich, thoroughly broken up, yet as firm as it
can well be made by trampling. Now, the
majority of heavy soils, before they can be said
to be in good working condition, must have been
first roughly dug and then exposed to the
pulverising influence of either frosts or drying
winds, such as we generally experience during
March. In our case a good dressing of the best
farm-yard manure obtainable is dug in any dry
day or favourable opportunity during January or
February. Directly after a good “ wind baking, ”
followed by showers, has been experienced, what
is now an almost unworkable breadth of soil will
separate surprisingly well. Then for this piece
of ground, which measures 20 yards by 25 yards,
about three bushels of wood ashes, the same
quantity of soot and salt, and about our
barrowloads of road grit will be mixed together
and sown over the surface. The men will
closely trample the ground, and then will well
stir up the surface to the depth of 6 inches with
a garden harrow. If the quarter was much
smaller, a proportionate quantity of the
fertilisers would be given, and instead of the
barrow, forks would be used for stirring the
surface. By stirring, we mean breaking up the
soil to a good depth without burying the
thoroughly pulverised surface soil. The surface
is next well raked over and levelled ; shallow
drills are then drawn 12 inches apart and the
seed is sown. We invariably fix the seeds in
the drills with our feet, and also cover them by
lightly ploughing our feet along one on each side
of the drills. The whole of the ground is then
raked, nothing being better for the purpose than
ordinary wooden hay rakes. We also reckon
to have seeds of the best quality, and rarely sow
more seeds than we require plants. We ought,
perhaps, to add that our drills are rather wider
than are usually drawn, being about 3 inches
wide, fiat, and 1 inch deep.

Tiie summer treatment consists of frequent
hoeings, these serving to keep down the weeds,
and also to prevent rapid evaporation of
moisture and consequent cracking of the ground.
Should there be any blanks in the rows, these
are made good by transplanting a few from
where they can be spared, the operation being
best performed during showery weather, and
when the plants are 9 inches high. Watering is
never attempted, no matter how hot the weather
may be, as I believe this to be more injurious
than beneficial to the Onions, especially if hand¬
some exhibition bulbs are wanted. The stronger
the manure used the greater need is there for
making the ground solid, otherwise the bulbs
are apt to become “ bull-necked,” and will keep
badly. We would dispense with either of the
surface-dressing manures rather than with the
road grit, as we have always observed that
where we were in a position to use this freely,
there we procured the best coloured and best
keeping bulbs, bull-necked specimens being con¬
spicuous by their absence. As will have been
seen, we allow good space between the rows,
but the OnienB are not crowded into narrow
drills, and when fully grown present broad
bands of bulbs which are literally pressing each
other out of the ground. Last season, in spite
of the maggot and mildew, we stored twenty
4-bushel sacks of well-ripened Onions. Those
who sow in narrow drills ought to thin
out the young plants to about 3 inches
apart (we grow double that number in broad
drills), and twice that distance should be allowed
if extra fine bulbs are required. The old plan
of so wing broadcast or in drills about 6 inches
apart necessitates hand-weeding and hand-
hoeing, and that in these times cannot be
afforded. Firm small-necked bulbs during
most seasons ripen naturally, but any that are
thick-necked when near the ripening period'
should be slightly twisted and laid down. We 1

Digitized by VjOOglC

do not depend upon the Onions properly
harvesting on the open ground, and usually dry
them well on the Btages and floors of the dry
vineries. They are wintered thinly on hurdles
resting on the rafters of a large shed where they
can be protected if need be from severe frosts.
For the benefit of any exhibitors who may re¬
quire early bulbs and are unavoidably late in
sowing, we may add that we have been success¬
ful with Onions raised in heat and trans¬
planted when about 6 inches high after being
hardened off. In fact, some of our best-shaped
bulbs have been grown in this manner, though
we have had larger by sowing in the autumn
and treating them as Tripolis.

Autumn-sown Onions.— These are sown here
about the last week in July. This may be too
early for some gardens, but on our cold clayey
loam they do not if sown later gain the strength
we like to see. The drills for these are 15 inches
apart and the plants are finally thinned to
about 4 inches asunder, or 6 inches if large
bulbs are required. The site chosen is generally
about the upper part of the garden, as we find
they cannot well have too much sunshine. On
some soils it is necessary to transplant to check
bolting, to which they are liable ; but although
we transplant a good breadth, it is not neces¬
sary as a preventive of bolting. We prepare
the ground as described above ; in fact, at one
time we used to plant them adjoining the
ground sown in the Bpring and at the same
time. This was done because we like to have
the various crops together as much as possible,
and as the Tripolis or autumn-sown Onions are
followed by Coleworts, and the spring-sown by
the winter Cabbages, this worked very well in
one district, but not here where our greatest
enemy is mildew. In transplanting autumn-
sown Onions, lift them with small handforks, so
as to preserve as many roots as possible, and
spreadout these carefully in flat, shallow drills.
The drills may be from 12 inches to 15 inches
apart, the plants about 5 inches asunder in the
rows, and covered with only sufficient soil to keep
them upright when made firm. They are not
good keepers, especially the white Tripoli, and
these should be used first, while if the brown
and red-skinned sorts are well harvested they may,
perhaps, keep good till Christmas. Rather than
begin to draw our Tripolis very early in the season,
say before the middle or end of May, we
generally thickly plant out during this month a
number of large spring-sown Onions that are
keeping badly, or which are past their season,
and are now growing strongly. Towards the
end of April and onwards these may be lifted,
as required, and divided, the bulbs or swelled
stems formed at the base of each shoot being
what are known in the markets as Scallions, and
very serviceable they prove.

Varieties and diseases.— We seldom use
more than 10 ounces of seed at the spring sowing,
and in the autumn 3 ounces are found sufficient.
For the former Improved Banbury, Brown Globe,
and Giant Zittau are preferred ; the first being
the prettiest variety, while the last-named is a
heavy-cropping, good-keeping sort, and in
small gardens may well be the only variety
grown. Of Tripolis, for autumn sowing, the
earliest is the Early White Naples, this being
followed by the Giant Madeira, also white, and
for the latest crops we prefer Brown Globe and
Giant Rocca. The Tripolis are the most liable
to mildew, and if grown near the spring-sown
and really more valuable crops they are certain
to communicate the mildew to these also.
Slaked lime, or, better still, flowers of sulphur
freely dusted over the affected parts before the
whole are affected is the best remedy with which
we are acquainted. The Onion maggot, which
is sometimes so very destructive, is seldom very
troublesome here, and this is probably owing to
the firmness of the ground, the comparatively
little thinning out, and consequent loosening of
the soil that is required. The fly emerges from
the ground in the first instance, where it has
been encased the whole of the winter. It
deposits eggs on the leaves of the young Onions,
from these are hatched the maggots which do the
mischief, either by eating their way downwards
or upwards into the hearts of the Onions. The
first attack is generally towards the middle of
May, and lasts from twelve to fourteen days,
when the grubs or maggots find their way into
. the earth, change into pupae, and in about
| three weeks from these the perfect fly again j
escapes to recommenoe the process thus briefly »

described. From this it will be seen that we
ought to select fresh ground for Onions each
season, while making and keeping this firm, if
it does not actually prevent the egress of the fly,
does at any rate militate against it. Then, by
way of prevention or for the purpose of destroy¬
ing the eggs, it is a good plan to syringe the
plants during May and early in June with
paraffin at the rate of 2 ozs. or a wineglassfnl to
a gallon of water; the paraffin being forcibly
mixed with the water. This should be repeated
occasionally, and preferably during showery
weather and in the evenings. Any bulbs attacked
during May or June soon change to a sickly
colour, and these should be carefully forked out
and burnt. If this is persisted in the greater
portion of the crop will be saved ; whereas if no
precaution whatever is taken there is the

rospect of the whole of the crop being spoilt.

owing late in April is said to be a good preven¬
tive, but we do not believe in the efficacy of
the practice. Doubtless the free employment of
powerful artificial manures to a certain extent
acts as a preventive, but firm, well-prepared
ground is what we have most faith in.

_W. I. M.

Veitch’s Spring- Whit© Broccoli.—
This forms an admirable succession to Snow’s
Winter White. It is scarcely so hardy as
Snow’s and other Broccoli that I could mention,
but for the last three weeks it has furnished us
with many dozens of beautiful heads of the best
quality. A pinch of seed was rown under glass
early in March, and more a fortnight later in
the open. The plants were eventually pricked
out in a sheltered border, and finally trans¬
planted with a trowel. In this manner we
secured successional supplies.—I.

Large Parsnips.— In answer to “ J. C.’a”
query relative to an enormous Parsnip of
3 feet 8 inches long, grown in Scotland, I may
mention that Mr. Thomas Appleby, Tursdale,
Ferry Hill, Durham, grew Parsnips 37 inches
in length and 17 inches in circumference, with
which he carried off fourteen first prizes.
Would “ J. C.” kindly state the circumference
of Mr. James Grant’s Parsnip, and thus enable
the reader to judge the comparative sizes of
English and Scotch Parsnips. —C. S.

12259.— Worms in vegetable crops.—
For the destruction of the above and of Onion
maggot, slugs, leather-coated grub, and other
insects that make such ravages on our crops
(particularly in gardens where proper cultiva¬
tion has been neglected), 1 find the manure
manufactured by tne British Sanitary Cc. to be
the best exterminator of these pests. They
supply me with 1 cwt. for 5a., and I find it an
excellent fertiliser and top-dressing for lawns,
cricket and tennis grounds. My garden is in
the suburbs of London, and when I took the
house in May last the ground was full of insect
life. I at once gave it a good dressing of the
above, and intend doing so again now, as I
notice in your article on “ Artificial Manure,”
November 15th, page 440, you say it is best
applied when the soil is damp. I garden as a
pleasing study, from which I derive a great deal
of healthful amusement and instruction, and I
am glad to say I can learn something every week
from the pages of your paper.—W. J.

12401.—Quick- growing Greens.— It is
useless sowing anything in the way of green¬
stuff in the opeD ground now. Spinach comes
in more quickly than anything, and may be
sown about the beginning of March on light
soils, and a fortnight or so later on those of a
heavy nature. It should be sown in rows about
9 inches apart. Lettuce may also be used in
the same way as Spinach, being much grown in
that way on the Continent, especially in those
parts where the weather is so severe in winter
as to preclude the possibility of getting young
Cabbages early in the year from the open
ground. For cooking, Lettuce should bo sown
in drills ; thin out to about 2 inches apart, and
pinch the plants when they get five or six leaves,
leaving a few to turn in to heart. Tnere is yet
time to plant out young Cabbages to come in
late in spring.—J. C. B.

-The greens that develop most quickly are

hardy green ColewortB. They should be planted
when the early Peas and Potatoes come off the
ground. They are in use all through the
autumn or winter, or until the sprouting
Broccoli: comes in. Plants of Early York

URBANA-CHAMPAfGN

tt*

t*

:c3

ip

Jan. 10, 18£5.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

575

or any other early Cabbage may be set out now
if the weather is mild, but they will not be
ready for nse until the end of May. Nothing
grows quickly ia winter. Spinach grows
very quickly, but it is not worth while to sow
it until February. The summer Spinach has
round seeds. The prickly seed kind is sown in
autumn for winter use.—J. D. £.

12433. —Blight on Brussels Sprouts.—
This insect peat has been very destructive this
season in our neighbourhood. A solution of
soft eoap is certain destruction to it. We cleared
it from our Cabbages and from the leaves and
the hearts of our Broccoli by this means. The
Brussels Sprouts we let go, as they, being
arrived at maturity, were past remedy ; besides,
the leaves point in a horizontal direction, and
the sprouts are so dense that h would be almost
impossible to reach with the insecticide the
larva? that were in the inner parts, and, even if
they could be so destroyed, the sprouts would
have to be pulled to pieces to remove them.—
L. C. K.

- The Sprouts referred to by " W. H. R.” are

doubtless attacked by a species of aphis, and it is too late to
do them any rood now. Ours were badly attacked in the
rommer and had to be dusted with Tobacco powder. A man
with a common pepper-box dusted the whole of the plants
in a large quarter in two hours. It saved the plants, and
we have now a good crop.—J. D. E.

12108.—Leaks.—The plants raised from seeds sown late
last year would most likely run to seed during the summer.
To grow good Leeks bow the s* eds in February thinly on a
bed of fine soil. They will not bo ready to plant out until
May. when a deep drill should be drawn for them ; they
should be planted in the bottom of this drill about 9 inches
apart, the distance between the drills should ho 15 inches.
—J. D. E. _

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

12417.— "Work on plain drawing— "T. L” will
doubtless be able to draw any fantastic design for flower
beds by consulting ‘ Golden Rules for Sketches,” published
by Reeves and Sons. Chcspside, price 6d. Probably, a’so, a
Pear tree curve will Assist in making the curved lines,
also price 6d.—A. E. A, Stamford IlilL

124is. —Small work on Mushroom growing —
Robinson’s, EarlyV, cr Wright’s books would probably
fcUit you.—K.

Names of plants—Fcrto.—l, Species of Phyllo-
cactus ; 2, Palm ; 3, Probably a Campanula ; 4, Fern. All
too rmall for naming accurately—— J. II. B. —Ruse us

Hypoglossum- G.Dixon.—a, Erica tetralix ;6,E. cinerea.

- Echo. —1, Sempervivum Haworthi; 2, The same; 3,

Sedum tortuosum varkgatmn ; 4, Meserabryanthemum

stenum.- II. A. —1, Pteris cretica ; 2, Polypodium

vu gare cambricum ; 3, Sclaginella Mertensi; 4, .Fischy-
d an thus specie sus.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Panama pi.ants (B. If. Tomkins ).—Try any gentleman’s
gardener who grows the Chinese or dwarf Banana. We are
not at liberty to give names. The plants can be had, also,

in some large nurseries- Pruning fruit trees ( W .

Waltr \—Your suggei-tion shall be attended to.-

Helleborus niokr (Sydney Hail am ).—Thanks for contri¬
bution, which we insert. The plant has often before been

figured in our paper.- Wm. Fegan. —We Bhall be very

glad to teceive any answers or other contributions from
you. _

HOUSEHOLD.

12440.— Reading-lamp cement.— The
beat cement for this purpose is a paste made of
plaster of Paris and cold water. Wash the
parts to be fastened perfectly free of oil, fill the
socket with the paste, screw in the bowl, and
leave for twelve hours, when it will be hard and
fit for use. This is what is used in the Bhops
to repair lamps, and I have been using it for
years. I always mend them myBelf, as I found
it very troublesome sending them to he done.
This paste turns green from the action of the
oiL—S. F. P.

Railway pudding. —One tablespoonful
flour, one tablespoonful pounded sugar, one
egg, one teaspoonfnl baking powder. Mix all
these ingredients well together, then add a little
milk, sufficient to make into a thick batter.
Pour into a buttered flat tin, and bake ten
minutes in a quick oven. When cooked, spread
over it a layer of preserve, and roll over three
times while hot.

12*15.—Cooking Kohl Rabl.— They may b® cooked
in the same way as Turnips, or another way is to boil them,
then drain and beat them, adding butter, pepper, and a
little salt; when cooked this way they form a delicious dish
if served up hot.—G. F.

- Boil till quite soft, mix a few oysters with it, cook

n scallop shells with bread crumbs on the top. Another
way: Peel and boil like Artichokes—serve with a little
white faucc.—CoRiBANiK. ^

igitized b\

Lrtjphi^ke8 —servo with a lit!

Google

QUESTIONS.

Rules fbr Correspondents.—A ll communication*

for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on ont
suit of the pa}*r only and addressed to the Editor. Letters
relating to business to the Pobmsubr. The name and
address of the sender is required, in addition to any nom
do plume to be used in the paper. Answers to Queries
should always bear the number and title of the query
answered. When more than one query is sent each should
be on a separate piece of paper 9wing to the necessity oj
Gardrni.no going to press a considerable time before the day
of publication, it is not possible to insert queries and com-
mu nications the week they are received. Queries not answered
should be sent to us again.

Naming plants or fruit.—Four plants, fruits, or
flowers only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens are sent We do rwt undertake to
name varieties oi florist s’ /lovers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
name should always accompany the parcel. Correspoiulents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
specimens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12478.— Violets in autumn and winter.— Early
iu September I lifted some large healthy clumpe of Marie
Louise, Belle de Chatenay, New York, and Victoria Regina
Violets, which had been well watered and attended t • in a
Bcmi-.-haded border during the past summer, and placed
them in a carefully-prepared frame. They have had
plenty of air and sun, the frame being closed at night and
during low temperature. l T p to the present tine the
blooms are conspicuous by their entire abeerce, and as
the leaves arc turning yellow I Bhall not,apparently, have
any flowers until spring, at which time I get Violets in my
garden (Mid-Surrey) in abundant profusion. Now, as I
am very anxious to get them during autumn and winter,
perhaps some of your readers could tell me where the flaw
is in the cultivation, or else confirm the opinion of a
friend, who is one of the largest florists in the kingdom,
that Violets are so coy in certain situations that it is very
nearly waste of room to try in these cases to get them
during the season when they seem most acceptable.—
I. S. J., Ripley.

12479.— Narcissus. —Will the Pheasant Eye Narcissus
bloom more than one season in the conservatory ?—Oak
LEIGH.

12480 — Repotting Tuber Begonias.— Will some¬
one kindly say when Tuber Begonias (which are at rest)
ought to be repotted, and what soil they require ?-Oak-
LEIOIi.

124SI — Cultivation o* Ageratum.—I shall he
much obliged for any information as to the cultivation of
the Ageratum.— Oaki.righ.

12482.— Sweet William seedlings.— Will any
reader inform me when is the best time to remove Sweet
William seedlings that have been transplanted?— Novice.

12483. — Layering Carnations — Will someone
inform me what is meant by layering Carnations?—
Novice.

12484.-Calceolaria cuttings.—I put about 150
Calceolaria cuttings into a cold frame the earlv part of
November, but, on taking six of them up the other day,
I found they hod not struck although they appear very
fresh and likely. Will some reader please inform me if
they are likely to strike now ?— Novice.

124S6.— Hyacinthus candicans.— Will you kindly
tell me when the bulbs of Hyacinthus candicans should
bo planted, and how treated ? Also whether, after flower¬
ing, they can safely bo left in the open ground, the soil
being dry and thoroughly drained ?—A Bubscribbk.

12486.— Flowers for bouquets.— Having a green¬
house about 10 feet by 8 feet, and also small garden in
front, I should bo much obliged if some reader would give
lint of flowers suitable for buttonhole bouquets, and which
could be grown by a Potteries amateur.—I. A. S. I.

12487. -Orange and Lemon trees.— Will Bomeone
tell me how I should know an Orange tree from a Lemon
tree, as I have got both and cannot tell one from tho
other ? I should also like to know the mode of cultivation.
-J. S.

12488 — Vegetable growing.-On the north side of
my house is a patch of garden ground, which is much in
the shade and seldom gets sunshine. What simple vege¬
table could be successfully grown in it ? The subsoil is
clay.—A. B , Essex.

12489.— Superphosphate of lime.— Is this a suit¬
able manure to give to plants in pots, or to mix in composts
for pot plants ? Would it help to invigorate an exhausted
lawn ? If so, I should b® glad to know the modes of appli¬
cation.—T railer.

12490.—Top-dressing tuberous-rooted Be-

g onlas.—I have a quantity of exoellent Begonias, which
st year were potted into large 32 pots I am anxious
to know whether, now the bulbs are strong and large, they
would not be bettor well top-dressed in spring rather than
shaken out entirely and potted back.— Westburt.

12*91.— Narcissus maximus.— Will “ F. W. B.”
kindly inform me when I could procure a few bulbs of
"the great Daffodil,” Narcissus maximus, as figured in
Gardening Illustrated for December 13 ? Can I get them
from any of the florists ?—A. W.

12492.—Potatoes.—I should be glad if you or any of
your leaders would inform me what would be the most
suitable Potatois to grow on newly broken up pasture
land. The soil has not much depth, and the subsoil is a
stiff yellow clay. I had a good crop of Magnums from a
portion of it this year (the first crop), but they go a dark
colour after cooking ; the flavour also is not altogether as
it should be. Will tho produce improve after a good
working of tho soil ? I fear it is not properly drained.
Would a trench all round the garden of about 24 feet be
sufficient drainage ? This I have at present.— Practical.

12493.—Lapageria alba.— I have a span-roof green¬
house built from north to south ; the end facing north is
of glass, and tho one facing south of brick. Would any
reader inform me if the Lapageria alba would be suitable
to grow at the brick end, which will not get the sun till

about three o’clock ? If so, please inform me how deep
the bed ought to be, and what the soil should be. 1
should also like to hear of any other flowering plants that
would bo suitable.— G. H. Ball.

12494.— Anthracite coal.— Following the instruc¬
tions given in your paper from time to time, I have been
burning anthracite < oal mixed with coke in a star boiler.
There seems, however, to be a large amount of tarry
substance given off in the fumes, and I expect tho
chimney is getting choked, as the damper (which pulls
out) has had to be cleaned several times. As it is very
hard and difficult to get off, I would be glad to know if
any others of your readers are troubled in the same way
and how they get rid of it,—J. R.

12495.—Seeds of Fuchsia.—I have secured several
ripe seed pods of a very good Fuchsia, but cannot find
any mention in the five volumes of Gardening Illus¬
trated how to act with the seeds. Please say in an early
number the best mode to remove from the pulp the seeds,
and when to sow them, and how.—E. C. Locke.

12496.—Primulajaponlca.—I have some seed boxes
thickly sown with seed of Primula japonica. Some of the
seed has been in more than a year, and a fresh sowing of
new seed was added last summer. Is it worth while to
keep them longer, and how should they be treated ?—S. 8.

12497.— Pruning Medlar tree.— Is it worth while
to preserve a Medlar tree more than fifteen years old,
which blossoms a little but does not bear ?— S. S.

12498.— Flowers near vinery.— What would grow
at the back of a vinery, north aspect, no depth of trees
Any kind of flower is wished for. There is lime rubbish
from an old wall, available either to make a rockery or
dig in.—S. S.

12499.—Plants for greenhouse.—I have just now
put up a roomy greenhouse, and I want to furnish the
same—no exotics, plain good stuff—Camellias. Azaleas,
Pelargoniums, Fu-hsiaa, Ac. Shall I be trespassing upon
your kindness in asking for list of plants suitable to
furnish this house very nicely, such plants as will not
require very much care and trouble?— Early Subscriber.

12500.— Snow’s winter whit© Broccoli.— I notice
that in your issue of the 27th " J. G." speaks in praise¬
worthy terms of "a good selection ” of the above, and I
have not the least doubt he is perfectly right, but I (and
no doubt others besides) should feel greatly obliged if
“ J. G.” would say where it could be obtained from true,
as I sent for mine to one of the largest firms, and, though
planted in good time, it does not seem likely to turn in
for another month, and I am told it is not the true
variety.—E. R. S.

12601.— Grape for open air.— Which kind of Grape
is best for the open air? Is Buckland’s Sweet Water a
good Grape ?—A. W.

12502.— Mowing 1 machine.— Would any of your
correspondents oblige me by recommending the best
mowing machine to purchase ?—G. A.

12503.—Heat for Gloxinias.— Will some reader
kindly tell me what heat it will require to raise from seed
Gloxinia Begonia. Calceolaria, Primula Japonica, Cineraria,
and Petunia, and how best to go about it? I have a
greenhouse ranging about 60 degs. day and night.—
Booth. __

Our readers will greatly oblige by replying, as
far as their knowledge and observation per¬
mits, to the questions in Gardening. The
following queries are shortly answered by
the Editor, but readers are invited to give
further answers should they be able to offer
additional advice on the various subjects.
Conditions, soils, and means vary so infinitely
that several answers to the same question may
often be very useful; and those who reply
would do well to mention the localities in which
their experience is gained.

12504.— What is mulching?— I am a beginner in
gardening, and have yet much to learn as to the art. A
term I find in Gardening Illustrated puzzles me much,
viz., mulching. It would doubtless help many in like
circumstances with myself if you would kindly, in your
notices to correspondents, explain the method of this
operation. My query is—" What is the meaning of
mulching Inquirer.

[Mulchiiuj is a gardening term. To mulch means to cover
the earth with any light dressing, such as Grass mowings of
the laton, leaves, short manure, or frequently manure itself.
—Ed.]

12505 - Smilax tamnoides.— At page 315 is figured
and described a plant under tho above name. Can anyone
inform me whether this is the correct name, and, if not,
what is, os I have failed to find it in any of the catalogues
at my command, and should like to obtain it if procurable?
Trailer.

[The name is quite correct, but it does not occur in the
generality of nursery catalogues. Apply to some large
nurseryman or botanic garden.— Ed.]

12506.—Gymnocladue canadensis, Sophora
japonica pendula, Zenobla pulverulenta.—
Will you or any of your readers confer a favour by inform¬
ing me where these may be bought ? I have searched the
local catalogues in vain.— Ruglbn.

[Try Messrs. Lee. of Hammersmith, Messrs. Backhouse,
York, or Messrs. Dickson, of Waterloo Place, Edinburgh .—
Ed.] _

Books received .—Descriptive Catalogue of Agri¬
cultural Seeds. B. S. Williams, Victoria and Paradise

Nurseries, Upper Holloway, London- Catalogue of

Garden Seals. C. Dimmick and Sons, High Street, Ryde.

- Catalogue of Garden and Farm Seeds. The York°hire

Seed Establishment, Hull.- Desciiptive Catalogue of

Garden, F'louxr, and Agricultural Seeds, Gladioli Roots,

Implements, <Cc R. B. Blaird and Sons, Edinburgh.- The

Penny Packet Seed Company's Illustrated Catalogue for 1885.
Biddle and Co., Proprietors, Loughborough.— Garden

Seeds, <tc. James Backhouse and Son, York.- Catalogue

of Seals and Amateurs' Guide to the Kitchen and Plotter

Garden. W. Toogood, Southampton- Descriptive Cata-

Zoywy pyaing and Cc., Forest ilill, lon^j^T) | C,

UF

WA-CHAMPAIGN

57(5

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 10, 1885.

BEES.

1244L— Beekeeping.—I strongly advise
“G. Holt ” not to feed or bother his bees until
the middle of February. If short of stores,
place a pieco of American cloth over the frames
and feed with barley sugar (which he can buy at
the grocer’s), but in small pieces, or it will run
about the hive. Towards the end of March
stimulate with Pea-flour cake, keeping on the
cloth. To make the “flour cake,” to 5 1b. of
white lump sugar add half a tumbler of water,
boil, stirring all the time, for twenty minutes,
until a drop sets in cold water, then add a
handful of Pea flour, such as Pea soup is made
with, put pieces of paper into soup plates and
pour from pan. When cold, give the cakes to
the bees. Your correspondent will find
“Modern Beekeeping,” price 7d., and “The
British Beekeeper’s Guide Book,” by T. W.
Go wan, price Is. 6 d., invaluable to him.— East
G LOUCE STERS1IIRE.

12507.— Beehives.— Will “8. S. G.” help me in a little
diliiculty with my beehives? I have five bar frame hives,
but they are not (standard size. I want to uso the standard
► ize for the future if it is any advantage. When would bo
the best time for altering my hives ? I have about forty
frames of comb. My top bars aro about 2 inches too
short, and my frames about 1J inches too deep. I make
my own hives. Do you think it will be wise to commence
such a task ? My bees do well in these hives, but they are
not like other people’s because they are not standard.—
Fked Wilbii »w.

12608.— Melting Old bees’ comb —Can any reader
inform mo how best to melt old bees’ comb for sale? I
know the old-fashioned way is to boil it in a bag made
with strainering, but to boil it makes it a bad colour, and
it is also more trouble and mess than it is worth.— South
Warwickshire.

POULTRY.

Partridge Cochins. —I have bred and
exhibited Partridge Cochins successfully for the
last four years. 1 may say I havo won over *200
prizes, including the Crystal Palace and
Birmingham great shows. I consider the
partridge by far the handsomest and hardiest
of the Cochins, but it is of no use breeding them
from anything but a first-class strain. This I
know well from experience. Chickens should
be hatched from January to the end of March
if wanted for the show-pen ; later birds will not
get large enough. The cock bird should have a
rather large single and well serrated comb, which
should stand well up ; he should have a perfect
black breast and legs and fluff, with a great
deal of leg and foot feather, all black, good
small black tail, rich red hackle, stripe of
black down centre in the long neck and saddle
hackles, a rich crimson-shaded red patch on
the wing, tho long feathers of which should
be black, with a clear-cut bar of chestnut
near to the end. The pullets or hens want
to be just the opposite. They should be
well pencilled all over, and, in fact, they should
be marked just like a dark Brahma hen, but
should be golden instead of steel in colour, and
more massive in shape. The book of poultry
by Louis Wright, and published by Messrs.
Cassell, Petter, and Galpin, has two coloured
plates of Partridge Cochins. —Caistjsr, Ncttleton
Lodge , Lincolnshire.

12609 —Fowls shedding feathers.— Will anyone
tell me what to do for fowls that shed feathers out of moult¬
ing season ? I have a good many birds in an enclosed run
with brick floor, which is kept well brushed. They are
supplied with green food, ashes, lime, and in summer
chopped Grass They lay well, and I seldom have a case
cf sickness. Last spring they began to shed, or pluck,
their feathers, and by the autumn were not fit to bo 6een.
During the last few weeks this trouble is beginning again,
though several of the birds aro quite unaffected. If any¬
one has had experience, and can tell me the cause and a
pood remedy, I shall be very grateful.—J. E.

12510.— Disease of poultry— Can you tell me cause
of and remedy for this disease which my chickens get
when a fortnight old ? The lower or underneath part of
the body pets very much swollen and turns quite black,
all the feathers come <ff that patt, the winps droop, and
the chickens die two or three days after they are first
noticed to be ailinp. Out of a very pood clutch of eleven I
have now only six left. I feed them on bread crumbs and
chopped hard eggs, and boiled milk, and little bone meal
occasionally through it, and chives chopped up fine, with
a change now and then of barley meal and oatmeal, and
bread soaked in ale about every three days Last spring I
lost nearly 200, some hatched by hens and some by incu-
bator.-P. M.

12611. Irish creels.— Will “A Lancashire Poultry-
Keeper,” who wrote to Gardening of Nov. 22, kindly inform
me w here I could procure a setting or two of Irish creels’
rpgs, which he recommends bo highly for laying purposes?
I Bhould not mind having a couple or so of the birds them-
selvtBj ateo the Bolton gpy^which he also |peaka highly

D kjitized by (jQ C ~

so or the bird
e also-speaks

gfe

BIRDS.

Canary birds.— (“Ethel.")—T hese birds
may be treated somewhat like human beings
suffering from colds—a little linseed tea or
some cloves in their drinking water, or a little
manna ; but the fault of a young bird being ao
bad lies in the fact of its being kept in a draught,
and the bad throat will become worse unless the
bird is taken care of and is not hung near a win¬
dow. A small work may be bought giving direc¬
tions for tho treatment of birds. I made extracts
from it, but did not take the name. Gritty
sand, bread and milk, egg boiled hard and
chopped flue, with bread crumbs and maw seed
mixed, hemp, canary, rape, millet, grouts,
linseed, inger seed, with chaDges of green food,
is the way to keep them in health, with a bath
every day.—E liza Beale, Weymouth.

Canary with bad throat.— Put three or four
drops of glycerine in its water every day ; give \Vatorcrc*.e
twice a week. Should there bo gas in tho room bo sure
to stand the cage down low at night, as gas is very
injurious to birds — G. Osborne

12413.— Parrots losing feathers.— “Bechst-In on
Cage Birds ” is a reliable book You have been feeding
vour bird on too nutritious food. Keep It on soaked
bread—using water, boiled raaizo, and fruit; never hemp,
meat, or anything 6wcet, except plain rice pudding.—
Cokisandk.

12512.—Breeding cut-throats —Having lately had
cut-throats given mo (one male and two females), I should
like to breed them ; being, howevor, a novice at it., I
should bo grateful for any info-mation on the subject.
Are they more difficult to breed than canaries, and do
they require the same treatment ? Should they all three
he put into breeding cage (I have no room for an aviary)
and left there till young birds arc brought up, and when ?
Ought also sham eggs to he substituted, and what food do
you recommend for them when breeding, as I find they do
not caro much for hard boiled eggs ? Should be much
obliged if any of your readers could kindly enlighten me
on this matter.— E. S. H.

12513.—Outdoor aviary.— Will any reader kindly
inform me how to build, and the best birds to stock, an
outdoor aviary ?—Soutiisea.

12514.— Canary losing feathers.—Can you give
me information as to tho cause of my canary con¬
tinually losing his feathers? Ho began to moult the
beginning of August, and as fast as the now feathers come
they drop off and fresh ones replace them with the same
result. Tho bird is three years old, and has always been
a beautiful songster ; he now has a terrible wheezing in
the throat at times. I should be so grateful if you or any
of your readers would advise me what to do with him, it
is no distressing to hear tho poor little thing breathe. He
lias been kept free from draught or cold, and I cannot
account, for it in any way. What food shall I give him?—
Emily C. Grky.

Concrete edgings.— Some of your readers
may be glad to know that beautiful lasting
edgings may be made of concrete, composed of
Portland cement and sand. 1 have tried it with
perfect success. It does not harbour vermin, it
looks well, and is everlasting. I used thin
pieces of board, between which I placed tho
stuff. When nearly hard I removed them, and
finished the top with a trowel—a mould would,
perhaps, answer better. To form the curves and
circles I used pieces of zinc in same way.—C. C.

Jointing pipes.—It is satisfactory to read
how well Portland cement answers for jointing
pipes. Above twenty years ago I adopted this
method, and made it generally known ; but,
liko most good and useful methods of doing
things, it was at the time repudiated. Its good
qualities, however, caused it to push its way,
and moBt of the large city firms now use it. It
must have been a boon to thousands, particu¬
larly market growers.—H. Cannell, Swanlcy.

APPLES, PEARS, PLUMS (clearance, land

LL gold).—6 for 6s, Us. per doz, in either variety, but our

selection.—FREEMANS’ , Nor wi ch. _

ASPARAGUS (clearance, land sold).—Cono-

LL ver’a Colossal, 1 year, 2s., 2 years, 3s., 3years. 4 b., forcing.
7s. hundred. Thousands at lower rato.-FREEMAN and

FREEMAN. Norwich _

p LIMBERS. —Honeysuck le, Virginian Creeper,
Amnclopsis Yeitehii, Roses, Ivies, Jasmine, Cotoneasters,
Hop Plant*. Clematis, 6s. doz., assorted.—FREEMAN,
N o rwich ._

r*LADIOLUS, dazzling crimson, 9d. per doz.,

U poBtfree: less by hundred or thousand. Splendid for
flower, herbaceous, or shrubbery border anl cut blooms.—

FREEM ANS’, Norwich. ___

DHUBARB (clearance sale, land sold).—

Tb Linnseus, Prince Albert, Ruby, Defiance, Johnston’s, St.
Martin’s. Stools, Bs. per doz.. crowns, 3a.; less for hundreds.—

FREEMAN. Seed - growers, Norwich. _

CLEARANCE SALE. — Beautiful flowering

Lf bulbs,' Scilla, Triteleia, ExhibitioniTulipe, reduced to 9d.
doz.: Exhibition Hyacinths,*4s. 6d. doz.. post free.—FREE¬
MANS’. Seedsmen .Norwich __

PROLIFIC RASPBERRIES, large fruit, s

L grand exhibition variety, price 2s per doz.; 5 doz rar-
riagepaid.- FREEMAN & FREEMAN. Seedsmen, Norwic h.

flIANT PROLIFIC BLACK CURRANTS,

U good fruiting bushes, 2a. per doz.; six dozen carriage
paid.-FREEMAN & FREEMAN, Seedsmen, Norwich.

I O DRACAENAS, 63 . ; vigorous little planta

Lex i n 3-jnch pot*, fit to pot on at once and make fine speci¬
mens for sprinif, 20 or 33 best rts. Hamper gratis.—J. H.
LEY. Woodaide Green, S.E.

h BRILLIANT FLOWERING PLANTS.

U ]0b. 6d.j strong plants of the scarlet Anthuriuno Seher-
zerianum. Hsnmanthus rnagni ficus, Amaryllis Johnson!, Den-
drobiura nobile, Eucharis anmzonica. Ixora Williamsi: all
will flo-ver this season. Hamper gratia.—JOHN H. LEY,
Woodside G r een. S.E. _

S WEET-SCENTED FIX)WERS.—Gardenia

florida, about 4 buds each. 5-iuch pots, Is. 6<L ; 10 to 15
buds. 6-inch pots, 33. Gd.; specimens 2 feet, over 20 to 30buds,
8-inch pot*. 7s. each, worth double. Clean, well-grown plants
from cool greenhouse, Stephanotia tloribunda, dwarf floweriug
variety, Is. 6d. each: Eucharis amazmica Is., 2s. Gd., and
3s. 6tL ; Anthurium Dechardci, white, citron-scented. Is. 6<l.
The eight plauts of all sizes for 20s. Hamper gratis.—JOILN"

H. LEY, Woodside Green, S.E. • _

ip HALF-HARDY FERNS, 6 s. — Strong

Lex p’auts from cold pit of the new Lastrea arlstata varie-
gata, Gyrtomium lucidum, Tree Ferns, crested Scolopendrium*,
and a great variety of others ; all distinct. Box gratis for ca,*h
and one Fern gratisJOHN H. LEY, Woodside Green, 8 .E.

I p NEW and BEAUTIFUL MAIDEN HAIR

Lex FERNS. 6s.. very good plants in small po’.s of 12 distinct
varieties as follows: Adiantnm Pacotti, A. Farleyense, A-
intermedia, A Victoria, A. lunulata, A. caudatura, A gracilli-
mum, A. St. Catherine, A. cultratum, and many others
equally choice. Double size, very fine, in 4-inch aud 5-incli
pots, 12s. dozen, la 6<1. each. Hamper gratis for cash with
order.—J. H. LEY, Woodside Green, Norwood, S.E.

IQ CHOICESr EXHIBITION ROSES, 6 -.

Lex Very strong, healthy plants on own roots, far superior
to budded plants; 50 best known sorts, Hybrid Perpetuala,
Teas, and Bourbon. Twelve standards, fine heads. 12s. and
15s.—JOHN H LEY, Woodside Green, S.E. (Norwood
Junction or Woodside Stations )._

DALMS, strong, healthy, splendidly foliaged.

L — La tan i a borbonica and Seaforthia elegans, 20 inches
high, 12 b. per dozen ; sample plant, Is. 3d. Latauia borbonica
and Seaforthia elegans, 12 inches high, 25a. per J00; sample
dozen, 4s. Maiden hair Ferns, splendidly grown. 20s per 100;
sample dozen. 3s. Packages aud parcels post free.—Postal
orders to the GA RDENER. Holly Lodge, Stamford Hill.

TTUHITE-FLOWERED, sweet-scented, hardy
VV CLEMATIS FLA MM UL A. quickly covers arches,
bowers, or ugly walls; perfectly hardy, no frost can kill; 3
plants, 13. 4d. free. Sweet Brier (foliage of this Rose ia
delightfully sceuted); 3 plants, Is. 4d. free; nice for scenting
linen. - MORLE Y & OO. t Pr eston. ____ _

A LL WHO REQUIRE BRILLIANT LARGE

LL FLOWERS for CUTTING should grow hardy early
Gladioli; 12 bulbs, mixed colours, Is. 2d. free. Once seen
alwajs grown. The nobloHyacinthus candicans, long spikes,
white wax-like blooms, hardy; 4 bulb*. Is. 3d. free; grand
contrast to above.— MORLEY k CO , Preston._

A LL AMATEURS should grow the exquisite

LL piuk feathery SPIR.EA PALMATA, beautiful foliage,
makes a lovely table plant; 3 strong clumps, Is. 6d. free.—
MORLEY k CO.. Preston.

STOCK. LIMITED of CHRISTMAS ROSES,

^ showing bloom buds; 4 roots Is. 7d. free, 6 2s 2d. fret?;
perfectly hardy, easily mown. Blue Hepaticas, 6 roots. Is. 4d.
free.-MORLEY k CO., Preston.

900 CHOICE BULBS, 4s. 3d. free; consist-

ex\J\J jug of 6 Hyacinths, 158 mixed Crocus, 12 Tulip®,
12 Anemones, and 12 Ranunculu s. —MORLEY & CO . Preston .

P R CHARMING SPRING BLOOM few

flowers equal the brilliant ANEMONES; 50roots la. 6<1.
free. Capital for cutting, last a long time in water, perfectly
hardy ; plant now. Ranunculus are equally beautiful, 50 root a
Is. 4d. free.—MORLEY k CO., Preston. __

•DLEEDING HEART FLOWER, Dielytra

D epectabilis, 3 clumps, Is. 4d. free. Thi3 most graceful
riant has long sprays of pink, heart-shaped flowers borne, in
Ions sprays. Solomon’s Seal is a charming companion to
above, 4 roots, Is. 2d. free.—MORLEY k CO., Preston.

A SPRAY of Double wax-like White AFRICAN

TUBEROSE bloom will scent whole house ; 4 blooming
roots with cultural directions, Is. Cd. free. Spanish Iris rival
Orchids in brilliancy of colour, perfectly hardy, 12 bulbs Is.
free; 18 blooming crowns Lily of Valley, la. 2d. free.—
MORLEY k CO , Preston . _ _

DARE GOLD FERN, Is. free. . Fronds of this

J-b exquisite gem appear as if c >vcred with gold dust. Climb¬
ing Fern grows up stick, Is. free; 2 choice different Tree
Ferns. Is. 6d. free. Rare hardy Holly Fem with thorns 1‘ke
miniatii'e Holly leaves, Is. free, 2, Is. Gd. free.—MORLEY
& CO.. Preston._

inn SPRING BEDDING PLANTS, in-

-LUU eluding PansieB, Daisies, Forget-me-nots, Wall¬
flowers, etc , carefully labelled, for 6s., package free.—G.
PHlPPEN, Victo ria N nrseries, Reading. __

in ORNAMENTAL AND FLOWERING

Lei sUItUBS, 2 feet to 4 feet, inoludin* Cupressns. Lilac,
Privet, Yew, Laurel, Broom, etc., correctly labelled, for 6s.,
24 for 10a., package froe.—G. PHIPPEN, Victoria Nurseries,
Reading.

3 ROSES, strong standard, and 3 Roees, dwarf,

bert named varieties, for 5s., 6 of each for 9a., package
free.-G. PHIPPEN, Victoria Nurseries, Readi ng._

6 magnificent climbers—i of Clematis,

Jasmine, Honeysuckle, Virginian Creeper. Ivy, and Rope
—for Gs , 12 for 10s., package free.—G. PHIPPEN, Victoria
Nurseries, Reading._

9f| FRUIT TREES—1 Apple, 1 Pear, 6 Rasp-

ei\J berry Cane*. 6Currants, 6 Go weberrifs—for Os.. 40 for
10s., package free.—G. PHIPPEN, Victoria Nurseries,
Reading. __

CH ASPARAGUS PLANTS, best variety,

dv very strong, for 2s., 100 for 3s. Gd., package free.—G.
PHIPPEN. Victoria N ur series, Reading. _

EA STRAWBERRY PLANTS, finest variety,

Ov very strong, for 2s. Gd., 100 for 4a., package free.—G.
PHiPPEN, Victoria Nurseries. Reading.

94 'RASPBERRY CANES, extra strong, 1st

sire and best variety, for 3s., 48 for 6s., package free.
—G PHIPPEN, Vic t oria Nurseries, Reading. _

6 ROSES, extra strong, dwarf, finest named
sorts, suitable for exhibition, for ,3c . 12 for 6*., package
'.ffehl —G.THPPEN, Victoria Nursorhk, Reading.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GAKDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

JANUARY 17, 1885.

No. 306.

QUESTIONS.

Rules for Correspondents.—-I U com mu nieations

for insertion should be clearly and concisely tcrittm on one
rde of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor. Letters
u* i>u* incss should be sent to the Publisher. The tut nit and
vhlress of the sender is required in, addition to any designa¬
te* he may desire to be used in the When more than

■e query is sent ecuh should be on a separate piece of
piper. A nswtrs should always bear the number placed against
:ki query replied to, and our readers will greatly oblige us by
rinsing, so fur as their knowledge anti observations permit,
’M correspondents who seek assistance. Conditions, soils,
ami means rury so infinitely that several answers to the . ame
qtestion may often be tyry useful, and those who reply wauhl
r eV to mention the localities in which their experience is
nined.

Ail answers, with the exception of nah as cannot well be
r’-azsified. will be found in the different departments.
Queries not ansicercd should be repeated.

Naming plants or fruit. —Four plants, fruits, or
invert only can be named at ons time, and this only
v*eu good specimens are sent. Wt do not undertake to
M*« varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comparison at haiul.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
name should always accompany the parcel. Correspondents
rho wish fruit to be accurately named slwuld send several
specimens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12615.— Show Gooseberries.— C*n any reader name
six of the best priie show Gooseberries?— Amatbur.

12516. — Exhibition Dahlias.—I have a small garden
ini I wish to grow about six show Dahlias, doublo. Can
aay reader say which are the best kinds ?—Amateur.

12517.—Manure from earth closet. —Is the manure
from an earth closet of much advantage in the garden to
plants generally, or in what cases should it be avoided ?—
Anon.

1251S.— Manure from fowl-house. — llow can
manure from fowl-houses be best employed? For what
plants is it most desirable—fruits, vegetables, flowers, or
grasses ?—E nquirejl

12619. — Yellow Chrysanthemums for late
blooms. —I shall be pleased if any of your readers can
tell me the best yellow Japanese Chrysanthemums for
late blooms.—L Dlxik.

12520 —Carrots and Turnips.- Could any reader
tell me the best way to get the above safely beyond the
reach of fly and other garden depredators? Hitherto I have
lost many by the slugs, fly, Ac.— Reader.

12521.— Window box.— I have a window box about
3 feet 6 inches by 15 inches wide and 4 feet high, covered
in with glass. The aspect is south-west What flowers
would be most suitable for it?— B. B. C., Birmingham.

12522.— Heating- houses.— Could any reader of
Gabdenino Illustrated give mo a rule for finding the
approximate length of nct-wator piping roquUito to
ma ntaio a tempe aturo of say, 65 dejs. Fahr., or kinriL
say if ny t ble giving such information may be obtained,
and where?—C. R.

1252^.— Cesspools. —A cesspool with twelve months’
accumulation must be cleared out during March. What
fruits and vegetables could this bo used for with advantage
at that time, and in what quantities? The soil, a deep
loam with clay underneath, lies high, but not too well
drained. Any information will oblige— Newtown.

12524.—Tropesolum Jarratti —1 have somo plants
which I dry off when they have done blooming, and w hen
I start them they grow well while just coming into bloom,
then some of the shoots die right down and spoil the
plant. I should be pleased if anyone could tell me the
reason. Do they require much heat ? I have mine in a cool
vinery, looking well at present time. —A Constant Reader.

12525.— Building a greenhouse. — I am about to
build a greenhouse. It is a lean-to, 21 feet by 10 feet
Will me of your readers give mo a little information as
regards height and how the shelves would be best
arranged ? I want a door In the centre, and a partition,
so that one side may have a warm temperature and the
other cool, that is to grow Chrysanthemums.— An Amatbur.

12530.— Chrysanthemums for cut bloom —
Could any of the experienced contributors to your paper
help me in making a selection of Chrysanthemums for cut
bloom, both early and late sorts ? 1 have at present about
twenty varieties, and have just added nine more sorts to
them. As I do not wish to grow more than sixteen or
twenty sorts altogether, I want to cut some of them out,
or substitute one or two others. The following are the
varieties: MI me. De-grange, Mime. Vecoval, Chroinetella,
Golden (^ueen of England, .Sultan, Elaine, La Nympho,
Jame-* SLlter, Mrs. G. Glover, Eve, Golden Ch r htlnc,
Fell ite, Pr nee of Wales, Defiance, Mrs. George Rundle,
Eraprc-s of India. General Canrobert, Pink Venus, Mount
Etna, Meteor. Meg Merrilees. Just added to my list:
Barbara, The Cossack, Hero of Stoke Newington, George
Peabody, George Sands, Austria, Seur Melaine, C'cdo
Nulli, Apracaine. Garden des Plants and Mdme. Do in age
my employer does not like.— Amateur in Chrysanthemum
Growino.

12527. — Hardy bright-flowered creepers. —
Please tell me names of a few hardy creepers bearing
scarlet or any other bright-coloured flowers, to grow along
the edge of some stone steps on a ten-ace which is rather
exposed to the wind. I have tried climbing Nasturtiums,
but it doos not cling sufficiently to the stone to prevent its
being bolwn about.—P knsbb, Clhdcsidc.

Digitized by Google

The following queries are briefly answered by
the Editor , but readers arc iilviLcd to give further
answers should they be able to offer additional
advice on the various subjects.

1252S.—Cutting 1 back Tea Rosea.—Will anyone
tell me when to cutback Tea Roses that are yet quite ever¬
green, bought last >ear in pots?—J. W.

[Cut them in March, but not too severely. —Ed.]

12529.—Book on cottage gardening —Can you
recommend to me any little book ou cottage gardening that
contains plans for laving out the sime ?—Swiss Boy.

[Hobday's, published by Crosby Lockwood, a cheap good
book.—E d.)

12530.—Strawberry plants In pots.—Ought not
Strawbeiry plants in pots to be put n ;w in the green¬
house, where thcr • are no vines? —II, V.

[J few should be introduced at a time in order to get a suc¬
cession of fru it —Ed. ]

12531.—Sowing Begonia seed —I have a packet of
Begonia seeds. Can anyone tell me the right time to saw
them, nd the subsequent treatment ?-Ji titer.

[Sow in February in p in* in a hotbnl or other moist heat.
As soon ns they m e large enough prick them off into pots j and
afterwards singly into tluir j>ols .—Ed.]

12532.—Peach-house after fruiting.—I have a
small lVach-housc (four trees). How can I make it useful
i-fter fruiting ? Could not Cucumbers bo grown in pots?
-H Y.

[Store any kind of bedding or cool greenhouse plants in it.
fYe have siru Pelargoniums do eulmirably in suck a place.
You cannot grow Cucumbers in it. —Ed.]

12533.—'Wood and leaf ashes.—Could any reader
toll mo the best way to use the above? I have a kitchen
garden to manage, and also a quantity of potting. Could
any of it be used for that purpose? Heretofore we have
wheeled in on the rarden and dug it in.—R eader.

(MV should i-ay that wood and leaf ashes would be very
useful iii potting nr any other kind of garden culture in
moderate proportions ami for some things. —Ed ]

12534.—Lilium longiflorum.—I shall be glad to
know the best winter treatment for these, as I find they
do not die down like other Lilies but keep green all the
winter. - Barnes.

[Aslong as the bulbs hare stems they must be supplied with
water, but only with su fficient to keep the stems Jr?m wither¬
ing. The plant is perfectly hardy on light and sandy sails,
and when grown out-of-doors it dies down like other Lilies.
—Ed ]

12535.—Amaryllis.—Will anyona tell me prices of
named flowering bull*, how often to water, if only pure
water fihou d be applied, and what temperature should
house be kept at?—J. W.

[Consult the catalogues of Williams, Vcit-h, or any other
nurseryman who grows tho*e plants. Should be potted this
month and not watered until the leaves an par. Rain water
is preferable, and a warm greenhouse temperature suits than
best .—Ed]

12530.—Cape Ivy —In Gardbninq for Jan. Oth, 1883, I
raw an account, of Cape Ivy (Scnocio maerogl ssus), which
made me wish to h.v-e a pi mt. I bought on la»t autumn ;
it seemed going on all tight till thesj ait six weeks, when
the Laves curled up and dropped off as fast as they came
Can your readers tell me t e causo ? I have kept it in a
window since October. It is in a pot 0 inches, in good
soil and hassh wn no sL r n of flow ring.—A B.

[IFe think you arc keeping your plant too cold. It thrives
best in a dry warm heat, being a South African plant .—Ed.]
12537.—Utilising glasshouse —I have a room
25 f<-et by 18 feet (formerly used as a billiard room), with a
glass »pan roof, under which are trained two vines ; th
south sidu—18 fe t—is a!>o glaz d. Can any of your
reader- suggest how the interior could beprofl a dy turned
to account during the time when the vim 8 are at rtst?
There is no heating apparatus excepting a flu to a lea-i-t j
gre nhou<e which "djoins the west side.- F J. S.

[.store a variety of cool greenhouse p’ants and such fine-
foliayed things as the New Zealand Flax, and ij yon have
any cool tree Ferns and half-hardy bedding plants. Camellias
would also do Ed.]

12538.—What to grow on back walls of
vineries.—In a back number of the Gardening Illus¬
trated I se? Orange trees recommend-d tv be planted
against the back \va Is of vineries. Shou'd they be pUnt- d
in the open ground and trained on the wall ? Where would
he tho best p'ace t pro tire good trees cheap, or at
moderate prices ? How far should they be apart ?
Would Figs answer planted in such a position, if not, what
else would answe so far from the glass an l shaded by the
vinos?—J. M. Nicholls.

[Orange* do fairly mil in su> h a position, and any good
nurseryman should be able to supply you. Figs wouli.1 do
better. Tomatoes also would do, but they want more light
and better culture.— Ed.]

12539.—Draining walks.—The paths in an old garden
are soft and sticky, and appear to be in want of raising the
level and of draining. Would it be sufficient to excavate
down tho centre of tho path—say, 18 inches wide and
18 inches deep—and then fill this up with stones, ashes,
&c. ; or must tho whole path bo broken up, and regularly
laid down afresh ?— Newtown.

[You should make catch-pits, covered with iron g ratings,
along each side of the walk at intervals of about 20 yards,
and these pits must be connected with a centre drain running
under the crown of the walk. In all cases allow the pipes
from the pits a fall into the main pipe. The crown of the
walk should be at least 3 inches higher than the sides, so
that the water will run off freely. The plan yon suggest, we
fear, would not anstoer. —Ed.]

12540.—Marechal Niel Rose on greenhouse
roof.— Would the editor kindly say if a strong Marechal
Niel Rose which the writer has planted in a cool green¬
house to grow along the roof would succeed in that situa¬
tion, or would there be any danger of the frost killing it
when grown against the glass?—X. Y. Z.

[It should succeed admirably, particularly as it frequently
thrives in the open air.—E d.)

12541.—Sprats as manure.—I have taken asmal
holding in the immediate neighbourhood of a seaport town.
At the present moment largo quantities of sprats are being
caught there. Aro these fish good manure for a garden,
supposing them to be dug now into the ground 1 If so, to
what description of vegetables are thoy beat suited?—
E. H. W.

[Fish form very good manure, but it has never been
plentiful enough in our case to enable us to speak from
practical experience. Perhaps some oj our readers who have
used it will help “ E. U. IF.”—ED.]

12542 —Campanula garganica.—The description
given in Gardening of 25th October of the flower, foliage,
and habit of growth of this plant, appears to tally so pre¬
cisely with one that I have hitherto known as Campanula
fragilis, that I fhould like to be informed whether gar¬
ganica and fragilis are two names for one and the same
plant, or whether they represent two distinct species.—B.

[These two kinds arc very similar, but garganica U quite
hardy, whereas the other is not.. They differ widely in
flower. Frngilts has a larger and more oven flower than the
other, aivl when out of bloum may be distinguished by the
brittleness of the shoot .—Ed.]

12543 —Seaweed as manure for Asparagus.—

I have largo Asp-aiagus beds on the holding I have 1 tely
taken near to a seaport town. Is Seaweed a good top¬
dressing for Asparagus, and, if so, when should it be
applied ?-E. H. W.

[ We ourselves have not much faith in seaweed generally
for Asparagus, but it has been applied by growers. It is
difficult to advise you unless you state the nature of the soil
and the condition in which it is, and also the aye of the
plantation, dc. Seaweed would do some goal as a mulch on
the surface, but if your Asparagus is not in a good state In
all ways iIt will not help you much. —Kd.]

12544.— Musa plant.— Could your readers recom¬
mend me where to get a Musa plant? 1 do not know if
there is a smaller variety than Musa Ensete. described in
Gardening Illustrated for 1879. I should like one to
grow and fruit in a hothouse about 10 feet high. Perhaps
th* ono figured lately would answer. Would a similar
soil to a vino border suit it? What temperature does
it usually require to succeed and fruit? Would it
answer uuder vines?—J. M. Nicholls.

[Any good nurseryman should get you a Musa\ plant
Musa Ensete lives in the ojwn air in summer, but the fruitin']
Musa requires a warm stove. It would not answer well
under vines .—Ed.]

12545.— Lilium giganteum.-Will anyone kindly
tell me how long a small bulb of Lilium giganteum will bo
in flowering, and if it will grow outside if covered with
litter ? Is this the proper time to plant it, and what is the
best kind of soli for it? Where should I be able to buy a
bulb of it ? What is tho price ? Docs it do best in a
sunny border or a shady one ?— Mrs. L.

[This Lily may be procured from any nurseryman, and
is not expensive. Plant- it about March or April in a light
peaty soil in a sheltered place. The best we have seen thrived
in the partial shade of groups of Rhr-dodendrons planted in
peat or other open vegetable soil The plant takes several
years to arrive at maturity, and yon can buy bulbs that will
flower cither this year or next. Small bulbs do not flolcer
for some years .—Ed.]

12540. — Campanulas. — la Campanula urtiemfolia
fl.-pl., or Nettle-leaved Campanula, a rare flower, as I see
it in no catalogues I have ? Will seeds of Campanula pyra-
midalis, sown in summer, and now very small plants,
flown this summer if givon good soil and well watered?
-Mrs. L. .

[The. first plant is not uncommon in botanic gardens and
collections of herbaceous plants. With respect to the second
something would depend on the time in summer when they
were sown. If early in the season we should say le* if
they were well grown and well placed. The via nt is such a
good one that it U worth while raising a batch, as, once
established. It flowers every year, and sows itself freely over
rocks and walls. It is a beautiful plant for such situations,
and also a stately border flower .—Ed.]

12547.—Blight on Honeysuckle. -Honeysuckles
on three sides of my house have for the last two years been
visited by a blight. Thoy come out healthy at first, but
soou got black and shrivelled at the points of the shoots.
Tho blight rapidly spreads, and very soon tho whole beauty
of the plant is lost, aud nothing seen but a black dirty
mass of leaves. What should 1 do to prevent this ? Would
syringing with sulphur and water or with Fir tree oil and
water be effectual, and should the remedy be used as soon
as ever the leaves develop, or should I wait till the blight
shows itself ?—Q. Q.

[“(). Q." should syringe, the moment he sees the blight appear,
with some of the materials he mentions. He should, in his
question, be quite definite as to what he means by blight —
whether the injury is due fo an insect or to any other cause, —

Ed ]

12548.—Is Hyacinthua candlcans sweet-
scented ?—When this Hyacinth was first introduced I pur¬
chased it under the impression that ite flowers were fra¬
grant, but I was disappointed. I have not been able to
trace tho faintest degree of fragrance in them, a’though
during the last ten years I have raised and flowered many
hundred bulbs of it. The statement that it is sweet-
scented is so often repeated’in catalogues, that either I

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

578

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 17, 1885

these Primulas to perfection wholly and solely
depends upon the watering; therefore give
water to those that are dry only. By the first
week in October all these little cuttings will be
fine strong stubby plants throwing np flower-
spikes. They should then be moved into a
light airy house and set on shelves. This house
should be kept at from 50 degs. to 55 degs. at
night; opening the top ventilators in fine
weather will enhance the colour of the flowers
and the stubbiness of the plants. About the
end of November they will be in great beauty,
when each should have a top-dressing of
sifted, light, sandy soil, with about 2 ounces of
Beeson’s manure added to each peck ; slightly
stir up the surface and apply the top dressing.
When placing these plants in their flowering
pots we use the following compost: Two parts
good turfy loam, one part charcoal and sand,
and one part sifted manure from an old hotbed,
of which the greater part was leaves. If the old
flowers and dead foliage are kept well picked off,
the plants will look well in their respective posi¬
tions until the middle of March. They are then
well cleansed and again top-dressed and placed
near the glass on shelves, when they make fresh

uu&t have been unfortunate in not detecting its fragrance,
or it does in some cases produce flowers deserving of that
appellation. If there are sweet-soented varieties of it I
should be glad to know where they can be obtained.—C.

[We thi)ik ice have noticed a delicate aromatic odour, but
it may not be perceptible to all.— Ed.]

12549.—White Cineraria.—I have a pure white
Cineraria in bloom Wi 1 anyone inform me if this is
uncommon ? I have grown theso plants for some years,
but never saw a white one before.—J. C. P.

[No; it is not so uncommon, and wt believe that Messrs.
Vilmorin. qf Paris, have a white race, as we know they
have a blue one . Of course we cannot speak as to the
jtarticnlar shade oj white that yours may be, ami you
should have sent a flower .—Ed.]

12650.—Removing wood stumps.— What is the
best way to get rid of tree stumps w hich are too big to dig
up?—T. L.

[// the stumps are very large we culvise you to blast them
with gunpowder. Of course great care must be taken in its
use, ami it hud better be done by a jterson who has had
rrpcricnce in such work. Anulher uriy is to soak the slumps
well with common paraffin oil, set them on Jire, and allow
them to smoulder away.—E d.]

12661.—Dwarf annuals with variegated
foliage.— If any reader could give me a list of dwarf
annuals with variegated foliage for ourpet bedding I should
f»;el very much obliged—Otfs Who has Read the Paper
Since its Commencement.

[Dwarf annuals with variegated foliage are, we fear,
somewhat scarce, but dwarf bedding plants of that character
are not. No doubt some oj our readers will kindly help our
corresponds nt.—Eu. J

12652.— Holly timber.—Can any reader of Gardening
inform me a9 to the best market for Holly timber? I
have several fine, straight, smooth trees varying in girth
from 20 inches to 30 inches, and I want to know whore
these could be best disposed of, and what would bo tho
approximate value of Buch wood.— Curator.

[ IPc have handed your query to the editor of " Woods and
Forests," and perhaps some reader of Gardenino may also
be able to afford you information.— Ed.]

12553.— Medeolaasparagoldes-I have some plants
named as above. I cannot find description or troatment
in any book or catalogue. Tho only flower I have seen Is
green and very insignificant. Is this its sole recommen¬
dation for cultivation ?—G. L.

[Your plant is probably Myrsiphyllum asparagoides, an
.1 rugus-like greenhouse climber. If you sent us a scrap
we could name it. If it be the plant we suppose, it is very
graceful in habit when well-grown, as it is extensively in the
United States.— Ed. 1

12654.— Blgnonia Tweediana.— I cannot find any
description of, or treatment for, this plant in any cata¬
logue. It haB never flowered. Is it worth cultivation,
and what treatment should it have ?-G. L.

[This Bignonia is a handsome yellow-flowered species, a
noM.ec of Buenos Ayres, therefore requires a warm greenhouse
temperature. An ordinary slovc-house would suit it. It is a
climber, but docs nut flower until it is a large plant. Do not
give it too much pot room if growing freely. If large, keep
it rather dry during winter ; this will induce its flowering.
—Ed.]

12555.— Espalier into standard.-I have a Lord
Sutlield Apple tree, which has been trainod espalier
fashion, and I wish to make it into a standard. Please
give me directions how to prune it. It has four branches
each side. Should the stem be cut down to the ground or
a contain length up from it ?—J. W. T.

[Out back not too close to the stem, say 8 inches or 9 inches
away, something depending on the age and vigour of the
tree. If "hat is best to do can only be determined by those who
see the tree. If the central stem is a strong one we should
not cut it back much .—Ed.]

12550.—Mercury, Good King Henry, or All
Good.—Will anyone kindly inform me how this plant
should be cultivated, and also what part of it is used for
the tablo—whether the roots or tops? I live in Devon¬
shire, where this plant is quite unknown, and, therefore,
any information respecting it will be much esteemed.—
F. C.

[The plant, as we have grown it, was in simple beds placed
about 18 inches apart. It thrives in ordinary garden soil,
and is used in spring, when the fresh growing tops are cut

DOUBLE PRIMULAS AND THEIR
CULTURE.

Of all flowers which we cultivate for the em¬
bellishment of the conservatory or the dinner-
table, or for the making of bouquets, none to
me has the charm which belongs to the double
Primula. Assuming that we have good cuttings
in May, we proceed as follows : The first thing
is mixing the soil, which consists of two parts
loam, one part leaf-soil, and one part sharp
sand. We then crock small 2£-inch pots, filling
each to the rim with this compost, then we
take them to the propagating house, set them
all level on the floor and water them. When
settled we commence to put in the cuttings.
Each cutting being taken off with a heel, we
make a hole in the centre of the soil and insert
it, filling in the hole with sharp sand and
making all firm. We then tie up tne foliage to
a small stake very carefully. Double Primulas
are struck here in a bottom heat of from 70
degs. to 75 degs. The pots are plunged to their

Single and double Chinese Primulas.

rims in sawdust,

growth, and this growth forms the cuttings
with which we begiu in May.

R. Gilbert.

as each cutting is potted, place it in the pro- j
pagating case at once. When the case is filled
give them a slight watering and leave the lid
of the case open until the foliage is quite dry ;
then put in two or three dozen lumps of char¬
coal to suck up the moisture. Keep the cuttings
close and carefully shaded from the sun. Five
to six weeks elapse before one can see the roots
at the sides of the pots ; we then give air and
gradually harden them off. When the roots, in
plenty but not matted, can he seen, the time for
repotting is at hand.

These cuttings we shift into 4£-inch pots—
that is, if for flowering. If for stock, we shift
all the best plants into 6-inch pots, keeping
them in the same house, if possible, until all
danger of flagging is over. They are then
placed in ordinary three- light boxes under a north
wall on a good bed of coal ashes, and should
be quite shaded from Bunshine and kept close.
I may be told that the sun seldom shines on
the north side of a wall, but on a hot day in
July, when the sun is working round to the
west, the plants suffer if not duly shaded.
They will want hut little water for the first
week, but a slight bedewing with the syringe is
l very beneficial to them. Success in bringing

Burghley, Stamford,

PRIMULA SIEBOLDI AND ITS
VARIETIES.

The different pretty varieties of Primula Sie-
boldi are quite hardy, provided thev are not
allowed to become too wet in winter, but unless
they are planted in a sheltered nook the blossoms
are often injured by strong winds and heavy
rains. We therefore grow them under glass
and employ them largely at this season for the
embellishment of the conservatory. There are
now several very distinct varieties of this
Primula, enough, in fact, to form a very
attractive group, or, if need be, a series of
groups. In some the edges of the petals are
quite smooth, while in others they are prettily
fringed, and the blossoms vary in colour from
pure white to purple and red, all the different
intermediate shades being represented. We
grow ours entirely in pots or pans, the potting
being performed in the winter before they start
into growth. At that time the plants are
turned out of their pots, the soil is shaken
entirely from the roots, arid then it is possi-

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GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

57P

ble to separate the crowns that are likely to
flower from those that are not. Some of the
plump crowns we pot singly in 4-inch pots,
while others are put five or six together in 6-inch
pots, a few of the most plentiful being also
grouped in large pans, as from their surface-
rooting character a great depth of soil is not
required. The soil which we use is two-thirds
good fibrous loam to one of leaf-mould and a
little sand. Small crowns that will not flower
during the ensuing season are put into store
pots, and with attention most of them will be
strong enough to bloom next year. After
potting, the plants are placed in a cold frame
and plenty of air is given them during fine
weather, the result being good sturdy growth
and well-developed foliage. They are allowed
to remain in this frame tUl the flower buds com¬
mence to open, when the whole of them are re¬
moved to tne conservatory, where for about a
month they are the admiration of everybody.
No heat or forcing of any kind is necessary ;
indeed, they do best when grown only in cold
framee.

After flowering we plunge them out-of-
doors in a cool sheltered spot, where they are
kept properly supplied with water ; there they
are allowed to remain till divided, except in
the event of very heavy rains, when some slight
shelter should be accorded them. If grown in
pots this Primula gives more satisfaction when
divided every year than when allowed to remain
undisturbed. If permitted to remain a couple
of years in the same pot all the strongest
crowns will be around the edge, as the rhizomes
quickly push away from the centre, seeking, as
it were, for a change of food. When planted
in a suitable spot in the open ground this habit
can be better observed, as the roots are not
confined to a limited area. These Primulas
may also be grown entirely on the planting out
system, and potted up for flowering in the same
way as are Lilies of the Valley and similar sub¬
jects ; but, our situation being very hot and
dry, they succeed best with us in pots. A few
of the best kinds are alba grandiflora, white;
alba ccerulea, white suffused with a bluish tinge ;
darkia?flora, deep magenta-rose, prettily fringed;
Hermia, rosy lilac; laciniata, bright purplish-
red, fringed ; lilacina marginata, white, edged
with lilac ; Pink Beauty, interior blush, outside
bright pink, fringed; purpurea, pale purple;
vincaeflora, violet; and Ophelia, lavender.

The propagation of these Primulas is very
easy; when divided, each crown, however
small, will form a separate plant and quickly
attain a flowering size ; but there is yet another
way by which tney can be increased in far
greater numbers than by division alone, and
that is by cuttings made of the roots. The
latter can be taken off when potting without in¬
juring the plants if judiciously done ; we then
cut them up into pieces about an inch long, and
dibble them thickly into well-drained pots of
sandy soil; they are inserted perpendicularly,
and at such a depth that the upper portion is
just below the surface of the soil. When in¬
serted, they are placed in a cold frame, kept
close and moderately moist. In the spring
young leaves will commence to make their
appearance, as from the upper part of each root
one or more buds are developed. These grow
away quickly, and, when large enough, should
be potted off. They will form serviceable little
plants the first year, and after another season’s
growth will be large enough to flower. Seed is
seldom produced ; therefore it is not available
as a means of propagation, but its place is well
supplied by cutting up the roots. H. P.

The Urn flower (Urceolina aurea).—The
attention that is now being directed to the
different kinds of Eucharis may perhaps lead to
other equally beautiful stove oulbous plants
receiving more care than has hitherto been be¬
stowed on them. Such a one—both distinct
and handsome—is the Urn flower, which, when
growing, bears some resemblance to an Eucharis;
out the flowers, which are produced in a pen¬
dulous umbel, are, as the name implies, urn¬
shaped. The blossoms are a bright golden
yellow, tipped with pea-green—colours which
form a pleasing contrast. This Urceolina
blooms generally during autumn, at a time when
flowers are getting scarce, and this, combined
with its distinctness and easy oulture, should
ensure its increased cultivfiion.£*p. > >

THE PAPYRUS.

A GLANCE at the accompanying illustration will
give a better idea of the merits of this plant
than any amount of words can do. In ancient
times it grew so abundantly in the Nile as to
furnish the Egyptians with writing materials.
Now, strange to say, it is said to be extinct;
but this statement, even if true, probably refers
only to that portion of the Nile which flows
through Egypt proper. In the more distant
regions it undoubtedly grows with the same
freedom, and is as plentiful, as in the time of the
Pharaohs. The Papyrus is a good companion
for the Lily of the Nile. There is a sense of
fitness in their intimate association, and they
naturally thrive well in company. Those who
have conservatories in the natural style, with a
water pool, will not find anything better than
Papyrus and Nile Lilies. They are true
aquatics, and they possess a beauty of form
which is best shown when they spring from the
calm surface of transparent water. In such
cases it is best to plant them out in a free sandy
loam. The Papyrus may, however, be grown
in pots for decorative purposes if kept well

Paper Reed of the Ancients (Cy perns Papyrus).

watered when growing, or it may be stood in a
vase containing water, and will then look very
nice in a window or greenhouse.

John Cornhill.

FLOWERS FOR WINTER BOUQUETS.
During the last few years the custom of wear¬
ing flowers for personal adornment has spread
among all classes, until it has now become
well-nigh universal, and the quantity of flowers
used in this branch of trade is surprising. One
of the most noticeable changes, too, that has
taken place is that of utilising the foliage
belonging to the flower itself instead of the
orthodox garnishing of Maiden-hair Fern ; and
certainly if one wanted to show the folly of
trying to improve on Nature no better illustra¬
tions could be got than those afforded by two
sets of bouquets, one done up with its own
foliage and the other with extraneous leafage.
For such bouquets both exotic and native
flowers are equally admired, but hardy open-
air flowers appear to be most popular, forced
exotics by their value being out of the reach of
the majority of people. It may not be possible
to get open-air flowers all the year round in
great profusion, but demand usually creates a
supply, and all sorts of expedients will be
resorted to in order to have such flowers as
Christmas Roses in perfect oondition during
the dreariest months of the year.

CHRYHANTHKMUM3, mostly Japanese kinds,
have been obtainable this season nearly up to

I the present time, and few flowers excel them for
feathery grace and beauty. Even in ordinary
winters they should be kept as fully exposed as
possible, and only taken under glass when danger
of severe frost renders protection absolutely
necessary. Under such circumstances their
flowers may be gathered until the worst of the
winter is over. Then there are the old-fashioned
China or Monthly Roses, which if planted
against south walls keep flowering the whole
winter through ; their half-expanded buds are
excellent for bouquets, as are also those of
Gloire de Dijon, which has scarcely been out of
flower on open walls during the past twelve
months. These winter-flowering varieties are
grown in quantity by market growers, cut in
the bud form, tied in bunches, and taken to
market, where they meet with a ready sale, a
Rose bud and a Rose leaf forming a perfect
button-hole bouquet, without any addition
whatever.

Violets, which come next in favour, have
been most abundant during the winter, especi¬
ally the single blue, tied in bunches with its
own leaves. They are mostly grown in beds be¬
tween fruit trees and bushes, such partial shelter
and shade suiting them well. Fresh beds, con¬
sisting of voung runners, are planted every
year on well-manured land in April and May ;
they are kept frequently surface-stirred during
the summer to promote vigorous growth. They
begin to flower in October, and yield abundance
of bloom until the following May, unless
checked by severe frost. Tender Violets, such
as the Neapolitan, Marie Louise, and other
double kinds, are transferred to frames on the
approach of winter, and are very popular
bouquet flowers. Primroses in all shades of
colour are used in quantity, and especially the
wild woodland Primrose, which in mild seasons
flowers freely the whole winter through.
Amongst cultivated kinds I find the clear white
ones the most precocious. Polyanthuses in
their varied shades of colour are much used,
and, like Primroses and Violets, are tied in
bunches with their own foliage, and make very
pretty and lasting bouquets. Anemones, both
single and double, are becoming favourites, their
colours being bright and varied, and the foliage
equal almost to that of Ferns and far more
lasting. They are grown from seed sown at
this time of the year on rich Boil in sheltered
positions, and when they begin to flower some
kind of temporary shelter or screen to break
the force of the wind is given them. Few hardy
flowers produce such brilliant colours during the
dark days of winter as the Crown Anemone, and
I anticipate a great future for this beautiful
Windflower.

TheChristmas Rose (Helleborusniger) hasof
late come in fora very large share of public favour.
It is now being planted as a regular market
flower in positions where it can be covered
with some temporary glass lights, cloches, or
handlights, as the purity of the blossoms is sadly
marred by exposure to the elements, although
it is hardy enough to withstand the severest
weather we ever get. Narcissi, or Daffodils, and
Jonquils are very much used for ladies'bouquets
at this season ; in fact, they have been abundant
for some time past. The Daffodil season promises
to become in time a lengthened one, as both
early and late flowering varieties are being
added yearly to the lists of these popular bulbous
plants, and growing them in various aspects
favours this result. The plants are of the
easiest possible culture, and the light sandy
soil of the south coast suits them admirably.
Pyrus japonica grown as a wall shrub
flowers very early in the year, and its bril¬
liant blossoms are used in quantities by makers
of bouquets. A spray of Euonymus makes a
good backing for this useful flower. Snowdrops
and Crocuses are much appreciated in their
season, and bunches of pure white Snowdrops
look extremely well, their drooping delicate
blossoms being chaste and graceful, while
Crocuses furnish a great variety of colours.

The above are a few of the most conspicuous
hardy flowers that figure largely in the cut-
flower trade during the first three weeks of the
year. With lengthening days variety, of course,
rapidly increases. Amongst forced flowers, the
most popular are Camellias, Azaleas, Lily of the
Valley, Roses, Spirteas, Cyclamens, double
Primulas, single and double Pelargoniums,
Roman Hyacinths, Tulips, &o., together with
Fern fronds, scented Geranium, Myrtle, and

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other scented foliage, but for open-air wear,
the hardy flowers have a decided advantage in
regard to lasting qualities. The sudden change
produced by bringing forced flowers into contact
with a withering wind is very trying, and the
beauty of button-hole and dress bouquets depends
a good deal on their freshness. The most
faultless arrangement is spoilt by a drooping
leaf. J. G.

WHITE FLOWERS FOR CUTTING.

Titf, great demand for white flowers at all
seasons of the year has caused special attention
to be devoted to plants that produce them,
triore particularly such as will last for some
considerable time in good condition after they
are cut. As to the purposes for which they are
used, I may mention the floral decoration of
churches, the wreaths, crosses, &c., that one
finds lavishly employed in cemeteries, and for
which white flowers are so much used; also
flowers for personal adornment. In the general
decoration of rooms, dining tables, &c., a
liberal use of white is likewise a necessity for
toning down or softening the more brilliant
colours. There is little difficulty in having
plenty of white flowers in spring ; but to meet
the demand at all seasons requires some con¬
siderable care in selection, and, above all,
preparation by hastening or retarding various
kinds, thereby extending the season of each as
far as possible. Above all, it is advisable to
rely on plants that require but little fire-heat,
because flowers from cool or intermediate
houses are far more lasting than those from
steaming stoves ; and a good deal can be done
with really hardy plants, even in mid-wiuter.
Then, by means of the most simple appliance
of movable glass lights, cloches, or hand-glasses,
Hellebores, Primroses, and other hardy flowers
may be had in great perfection, and prove a
great help. There are, however, many other
beautiful flowers but little known, and still less
grown, that need only a small plot to themselves
to produce an unfailing supply of blossoms of
the purest white. In the following list I only
give the names of those that I And to do well
under very moderate temporatures, many
requiring no artificial heat at all. Those who
have tho least resources in tho way of heated
structures are just tho people most likely to put
to the test the capabilities of the plants I
mention, which we find to do well on tno south
coast.

Abutilon, Boulk de Neioe, flowers freely
the whole year round ; in fact, 1 hardly know
which is its most floriferous season. \Vo have
a quantity of large plants of it in 12-inch pots,
in which they were placed two years ago. The
pots were only half iilled with loam and rotten
manure, and the plants have never been out of
bloom the whole time. We place them out-of
doors from June to September against a partially
shaded wall, and their winter quarters is a light
span-roofed house, trained close to the glass.
They get a little tire-heat in the depth of winter;
but a temperature of 50 degs. is high enough for
them. For tilling wreaths and crosses, the
petals are carefully turned back, and the yellow
stamens are removed. We top-dress with rich
manure several times a year, as the more growth
the more flowers ; and if at all starved the
blooms are too small and footstalks too short to
be effective.

Among Azaleas" the pure white forms like
Fielder’s white are invaluable for supplying cut
flowers. I find that if the same plants are
brought into bloom a little in advance of their
ordinary time of flowering, and the young
growth is pushed on and matured before being
set out-of-doors, they flower the following
season with but very slight forcing considerably
earlier than they otherwise would do. There¬
fore by having tho oldest plants for early work,
and younger stock for late flowering, a long
succession may be maintained with a very
moderate supply of fire-heat.

Anemones are useful both in spring and
autumn. Honorine Joubert is invaluable during
August, September, and October. It docs best
when well established, and by having clumps of
it in various aspects we get a long succession of
flower. For spring we select the white flowers
from batches of seedlings, and give them a little
protection to keep heavy rains from splashing
the blooms. _ t _

Aohtllea i*tap|mic a ^ ri^OTW. -|*Lf. ji a is a lovely
DIGITIZE^ 1 —

TAi^noA qoh; -^|^i

hardy flower, producing branching heads of tiny
double button-like blossoms, white as snow ;
its only need is a patch to itself of ordinary
soil.

Calla ^ethiopica is unrivalled for supplying
cut flowers for large vases or church decoration.
Wo find it most useful as a winter or spring
flower, especially for the Christmas, Easter, and
Whitsuntide festivals. We grow single crownB,
and, after they have done flowering, plant out in
good rich soil in the kitchen garden in June.
We lift them in September or October, when
they are generally pushing up flower spikes
that in a genial temperature open about Christ¬
mas; butthi8 issuch anaccommodatingplantthat
itsseasonof flowering may be regulated for almost
any period.

Chrysanthemums may be had both early and
late ; the early flowering Pompone varieties come
in while flowers are still plentiful. Then we
have the real Chrysanthemum season in dreary
November, when such sorts as Snowball,
Empress of India, and others are the white
flowers for tho season ; but still more valuable
are the late Japanese varieties, such as Ethel,
Sat ina, and others that flower from Christmas to
February ; their flowers are light, feathery, and
graceful. I fiud that when kept out-of doors as
long as possible, and when placed under glass
and kept as airy as can bo done, there is little
difficulty in getting this useful class of Chrysan¬
themums to flower during January, a time
when really good white flowers are always in
great request.

Camellias are deservedly popular, and,
where large quantitiesof cut flowers are required,
planting out is the way to meet the demand. As
to varieties, there is nothing better than the old
double white and fimbriata.

Carnations both of the tree or perpetual
kinds and ordinary border Borts are ever welcome.
White Pinks, too, are most useful in their
season. With a little car® as tor selection, and
by resting the perpetual flowers during the
season when others of a more fleeting character
are in bloom, one need never be without white
Piuks or Carnations.

DKUTzrA gracilis is too well known to need
description. We get it in bloom for at least
four months by pushing on the best ripened
plants in a warm house, and keeping others
out-of-doors, and introducing them a few at a
time, according to the demand ; but even the
latest open their flowers of a purer white if
taken under glass a few days before they expand.
We plant out the majority of our plants, only
keeping those required for very early flowering
in pots to get their wood ripened early.

Dahlias are most useful autumn flowers.
Both single and double come in opportunely
for harvest and other festivals, when white
flowers are generally scarce.

The common Double-white Daisy is a most
useful flower for making wreaths, and the Paris
Daisies, or Marguerites, are equally useful in a
cut state for dre9a bouquets. They are both of
the easiest culture.

Eupatorium odoratissimum produces a mass
of feathery white flowers. Its best soaaon is
autumn and winter. We grow it in pots out-of-
doors until it shows flower, when it is placed
in a cool-house, and it soon develops a good
head of bloom. It is not liable to be infested
with insect pests, and is a plant of the easiest
culture.

Eccharis amazonica and E. Candida are
most charming of Lily worts. I find they do
well with very moderate temperatures. They
grow freely in loam, manure, and sand, and by
partially withholding water, and then placing
them in an increased temperature, and giving
abundance of moisture at the root, they may bo
induced to pushup thoir lovely flower spikes at
almost any period of the year.

The Plantain Lily (Funkia grandiflora) is an
agreeably-scented flower of the purest white.
In this locality it does well out-of-doors, but, as
a rule, the cool house is the place for it. Plenty
of moisture is its chief requirement.

Gardenias require a good command of heat
to flower them well. Peat soil and planting out
on hillocks is the way to do them properly, and
they should have copious drenchings of tepid
water. Mealy bug is very partial to them,
j Helleborus niger and H. N. MAXIMUS
have of late come into great favour for Christmas
and New Year’s decorations. Being quite hardy,
I they do best planted out in well-prepared soil.

where they can remain undisturbed for years ;
they, however, well repay the protection of a
glass covering of some sort when in bloom, os
the flowers are then kept white and clean, not
being soiled or splashed by heavy rains.

Pelargoniums, single and doable, are most
ueeful. They can be had in bloom nearly all the
year round with but very little fire-heat; and,
in addition to zonals, there are now tome
varieties with beautifully fringed white flowers
most useful for cutting. I may mention that
where the flowers are required for button-holo
or dress bouquets, it is advisable to gum the
base of the petals, lest they fall and spoil the
whole arrangement.

Gladioli. —Amongst these none are more
nseful for bouquets than the white G. Colville
and The Bride. They do extremely well in pots,
and either in the shape of full-blown spikes, or
single blooms gathered and wired, they are
charming.

Hyacinths. —Of these several varieties are
most valuable for supplying clear white flowers,
but none are so generally useful as the white
Roman kind; it sends up several spikes from
one bulb, and requires very little artificial heat
to havo it in bloom during the dull part of the
year. Then there is Hyacinthus candicans in full
bloom with us out-of-doors, and it may be had
for a long season in pots.

The common white Jessamine ought to
find a place as a wall-climber wherever white
flowers are in request; its delicate-scented
flowers and beautiful foliage make it most
valuable for cutting.

Lily of the Valley is such a universal
favourite that it can never be too plentiful.
With good crowns and gentle forcing there is
no difficulty in flowering it, and in the open air
good old-established beds of it, well manured
every season, are invaluable.

Liltum candidum and L. longiflorum are
beautiful midsummer flowers; they only need
planting in light sandy soil in August or
September, to yield abundance of their large
delicate blossoms.

Myosotis dissitiflora alba is a lovely white
form of Forget-me-not, and a plant of the
easiest culture.

Narcissus dubius and other white varieties
are easily forced. They should be put in boxes,
pots, or pans, and brought gently forward
under glass ; in the open air, too, beds of them
are very floriferous, after they get well
established.

The double white Chinese Primula
grown in 6 inch pots, and kept in winter near
tho glass in an intermediate house, yields
abundance of lovely flowers; while hardy
Primroses, single and double, flower freely in
open air even in mid-winter, and in spring are
complete masses of bloom.

Roses in endless variety are at all seasons in
request, the white Teas, in the form of half
expanded buds, being much prized. The white
Banksian, and other climbing Roses, are also
always welcome.

Spiracas are excellent when cut; the feathery
plumes of S. japonica we get abundantly from
Christmas to June by forcing and retarding ; and
other varieties, such as S. filipendula, are also
most useful iu their season.

Sweet and Everlasting Peas are invaluable
for cutting. Of the former select a good white
strain and keep them true by isolating them
from the coloured sorts. Of the white Ever¬
lasting Peas too much can hardly be said ; the
blooms are pure white, and last well when cut.
Half-a-dozen roots planted against a rough fence
or screen will yield plenty of whito flowers
from midsummer to late in autumn.

! Stephanotts floribunda doe3 not require
a high temperature in which to grow it well.
I have a fine plant, loaded with blossom,
that in winter gets a night temperature of about
45 degs.

Tuberoses are most valuable for cutting,
being highly fragrant, pure white, and very
lasting when cut, owing to the wax-like substance
of their petals. By potting in a few at various
seasons a long succession may be maintained. I
find the genial moist temperature of a frame or
pit suit them better than more airy quarters,
red spider being their greatest enemy.

The above selection will furnish whito flowers
the year round, and can be grown by anyone
having a warm house or pit to forward those
that require hastening into bloom, and for

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GAR D TUNING ILL UST BAT ED

581

preserving the few that really require artificial
heat. The majority, however, only require the
protection of glass during the most inclement
months of the year. J. G.

Gosport,

PLANT ARRANGEMENT.

It may be safely aflirmed that beauty and
variety of form, in combination with picturesque
grouping, will do more to render a garden pleas¬
ing than brilliancy alone. A garden of gaudy
colours and flat surface does not charm so much
as one where plants of varying heights, exhi¬
biting considerable diversity of form, are pretty
liberally employed. For this reason the free
use of such tender exotics as Cannas, Wigandias,
Castor-oil plants, &c., which are distinguished
by beauty of form, is to be recommended where
are employed ordinary bedding plants that are
generally so compact of growth as to create but
little diversity of form. The arrangement of
plants in a garden, like that of flowers in a
bouquet, is simply an affair of producing har¬
monious contrasts. It is an art which can
scarcely be taught, and which in a great measure
comes naturally to those having an eye for the
beauties of Nature. Climbers are of those plants
which create diversity of form, and among the
many ways in which they can be used is that
of training them over wire supports made in
any form that the fancy of the owner may
suggest. Good examples of the way in which
this may be done are to be found in the accom¬
panying illustrations, where in one instance a
wire framework forms the centre of a group of
bits of rockwork with hardy plants, and in the
other is affixed to a jardiniere. There is a very
fair choice of plants suitable for training in this
way, among them may be mentioned Maurandya
Barclayana, Lophospermum scandens, Canary
Creeper, Tropaeolum tuberosum, the common
Nasturtium, and Clematises of various kinds.
The first two are of moderate growth, and are
better suited for forming canopies of limited
dimensions. Maurandya Barclayana, white and
blue, are elegantgrowing plants and flower freely.
For indoors there are the tuberous-rooted Tro-
parolums tricolorum and brachyseras, and the
winter-blooming T. Lobbi.

Byfleet. _ ,T. C.

REPLIES.

1240*1.— Geranium culture.— The end of
February is a good time for shifting zonal
Geraniums, as by that time all danger of damp¬
ing is past, and root action has scarcely com¬
menced in a cool-house. Do not repot unless
the pots are full of roots and the plants have

abundant foliage. Sometimes Gera¬
niums lose some of their leaves in
winter, in which case it is better to
let them start into growth before re¬
potting them. Do not give large shifts,
and use sandy loam with a little leaf-
soil as compost. Very often Gera¬
niums are shifted when they do not
need it, and when top-dressing with
some concentrated manure or watering
with weak liquid manure occasionally
would do just as well or better. Too
much good food and an enlarged root-
run promotes strong growth, and when
the glass structure is not very airy
there is a corresponding loss of florifer-
ousness. The great point in Geranium
culture is to grow the plants on to
blooming size, and then attend well to
the watering and feeding. In this
way the free-flowering nature of this
plant is most highly developed. In
a general way, if plants are shifted
in spring they need no more repotting
that year—that is, if they are required
to bloom the summer through.

Young plants grown along for winter
blooming should be shifted in March
and again in July, as, not being allowed
to flower in the growing season, they,
of course, make greater progress than
if allowed to bloom. Plants intended
for winter and spring bloom in the
open air should be grown all tho
summer through. Pelargoniums of the
show, fancy, and decorative typeB
should, if the pots are free of roots,
be shifted in January, as it is important
that they get well established by the time they
throw up for bloom. Give plenty of air through
the spring, and when they have done blooming
turn them out-of-doors, cutting them back to
two eyes in July. Give scarcely any water until
they break, and when the young shoots are
formed shake away all the old soil and repot in
good loam with a little sand in it. Keep in a
frame for a week or two, and then place in the
open air. — J. C. B.

12469.— St ephanotis culture.— The best
way to grow this handsome stove plant is to
prepare a border for it and plant it out. It may
then be trained to the rafters of the house, and
will, when it has made sufficient growth, pro¬
duce a great profusion of flowers. As a climbing

S lant it is well adapted for pot culture, and
owers freely, even as a small specimen. The
potting soil should be good turfy loam, to
which has been added a third part of peat and
some decayed stable manure. Home sharp white
sand and bits of charcoal are neces¬
sary to keep the compost in a porous
state. The plants can be trained to
sticks round the sides of the pots,
when the wood is well ripened. The
large exhibition specimens, seen so
profusely in flower, are formed by train¬
ing the growths up near the glass
during the summer and autumn until
the young wood is perfectly developed.
These growths are then taken down
and tied to a trellis fixed in the pots.
If they had been trained to this
trellis while making their growths
they would not have received enough
light and air to ripen the flower buds.
—J. D. E.

12461. — Heating conserva¬
tory. — The tenor of this question
shows so thoroughly the want of know¬
ledge of those who possess the means to
build hothouses and to purchase
plants, that it would be well to answer
the question more fully. Here is a
span-roofed conservatory, 18 feet by
10£ feet, intended to be heated to
60 degs. in winter—that is a warm
stove temperature, and would not do
at all for greenhouse or conservatory
plants. The temperature would do
well for Palms, Orchids, and hothouse
flowers, but it would be impossible to
grow soft-wooded plants like Cine¬
rarias, Calceolarias, or even Pelargo¬
niums, in such a house. Hard-wooded
plants, like Heaths, Epacrises,
Camellias, &c., would also be apositive
failure. In a house of that size it

Wire frame for Creepers

would not be worth while to make a division, one
for stove plants and another for greenhouse. It
would be far better to make a conservatory of it,
as it is attached to the drawing room. In that
case three 4-inch pipes would be required. Two
might keep out the frost; but a house in that
position should be kept up to 45 degs. as a
minimum in w inter. If the house were kept
as a stove four pipes would be necessary. A
small lean-to, with a glass roof, only could be
heated sufficiently to keep out the frost with
two 8-inch pipes.—J. D. E.

12464.— Tuberose culture. — To have
Tuberoses in bloom in August and September
they should be potted in April and early in
May, so as to give a succession. Nine-inch pots
are large for Tuberoses, and require six to eight
bulbs, according to size, to fill them with roots.
We should prefer to employ pots not larger than
6 inches across, as they are more manageable.
Grow in a frame or cool greenhouse, and be
very careful not to overwater before the bulbs
are well in growth, and to give plenty of water
when they are growing freely. In hot weather
syringe twice a day to keep red spider down. In
fine weather give air night and day.— Byfleet.

12494.— Anthracite coal.— If the deposit
is of a tarry nature, it could hardly arise from
the anthracite, which has no bituminous pro¬
perties, being composed almost entirely of
carbon. As coke has been mixed with it,
possibly some of this may have been imperfectly
coked, and bo have caused the deposit. If so,
try the anthracite alone, without admixture of
coke; but, whatever fuel is burnt, dampers
will frequently get clogged with dust and rusty
particles, and should, before this deposit
becomes hard, be occasionally scraped with an
old knife or piece of flat metal. Personally, so
far from being troubled with any deposit, I
have found that there is less of it with this coal
than with any other fuel.—K.. Southend.

12436.— Sweet-scented Verbena.— This
plant iB of very easy culture, but it requires plenty
of good food in the growing season. In February
the strong shoots should be pruned back hard
and the weakly ones cut out. When the young
growths are about 1 inch in length shift into the
next sized pot, shaking away as much of the old
soil as possible. From the end of May grow in
the open air, giving plenty of water and frequent
doses of liquid manure from the time the roots
touch the sides of the pot. In this way a strong
growth will be made, and green fly will rarely
make its appearance. If it does appear brush
it off with a soft brush, or dust the affected
shoots with Tobacco powder. If the plants are
in pots so large that it is not desirable to repot,
water frequently, from the time they come into
growth, with liquid manure or top dress about
twice’witji ^IayV

Digitized by

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Original fro-m

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Ja*. 17, 1885]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

583

SPRING GARDENING.

Although this interesting branch of flower
gardening ia generally understood to be closely
related to bedding out, there is no reason
why it should be confined to beds of any Bhape.
It is, indeed, most effective when seen in
sheltered nooks and corners, or on warm
borders close to the dwelling-house, or under
the shelter of evergreen shrubs ; and even the
smallest garden can be made cheerful during
the earliest months of the year by a liberal use
of hardy spring flowering plants. They go on
increasing in size and effectiveness year after
year, and do not need a tithe of the labour
that plants for summer bedding do. In mild
winters, too, there are always a few blossoms
to keep garden interest alive, and directly the
days begin to lengthen these bright harbingers
of spring unfold their petals, and, although
mostly of humble growth, and not possessing the
brilliancy of colouring that plants from warmer
regions do, they are nevertheless greatly prized
from the fact of their flowering at a time when
Sowers are most welcome.

Amongst those most deserving of extensive
culture, I may mention Primroses and Polyan¬
thuses, in many varied colours, which usually
anticipate the spring by flowering more or less
daring the whole of the winter, the single white
Primrose being especially precocious. Single
kinds may be readily increased from seed, but
where distinct colours are most desired, division
of the crowns is the readiest means of increasing
the stock. I find it best to divide directly the
flowering is over, replanting deeply, so that
only the top of the crown is loft above ground.
Water freely in dry weather, and, if they are
not planted in a shaded position, screen them
temporarily from the sun’s rays. They naturally
grow most luxuriantly under deciduous trees,
where the c mopy of foliage effectually shades
them.

Aconites and Snowdrops should find a place
in every garden. They succeed admirably
under the Bhade of trees and shrubs, and do not
need the perpetual lifting and replanting sup¬
posed to be necessary in the case of most plants
of a bulbous rooted character; in fact, when
once planted, they enjoy being left alone, and
are more effective when seen in well-established
masses. They do well under deciduous trees,
or on any bank or border near the dwelling
house where scarcely anything else will grow.

Hepaticas, blue, white, and pink, both single
and double, are lovely little spring flowers, which
do much to light up the garden with their
bright colours. Like the preceding, they re¬
quire to be grown in clumps of several years’
standing to be really effective. The best time
for increasing them by division is just after they
have done flowering. Cut up the clumps, and
replant in May ; they will then make good
growth, and flower well the following season.

Pansies and Violas are such continuous
flowering subjects that they embrace the whole
floral year. As spring flowering plants they
are unequalled—in fact, a garden may be made
most effective with this family alone. I well
remember how beautiful they were in the
spring flower garden at Cliveden. For early
flowering young plants are best, propagated
from cuttings in June, and planted out in good
rich soil as soon as rooted ; they will then be
fine sturdy plants, fit for putting into position
in October, and will commence to flower very
early in spring.

Myosotis, or Forget-me-not, is a lovely gem
among dwarf spring flowers. If sown in May,
the young plants will form good clumps by the
autumn, and will begin to flower in February.
A position sheltered by overhanging trees or
shrubs is best, as in exposed positions the
blooms get injured by spring frosts. Myosotis
dissitiflora and its white variety are probably
the best for early flowering, but M. azorica is
an excellent border plant, and seeds freely.
M. dissitiflora is rather a shy seed bearer; it
succeeds well propagated by pulling portions of
the old plants to pieces in July, dibbling them
in a shady position, and keeping them moist
until rooted.

Ranunculuses and Anemones have a flue
effect in early spring, growing freely in light
Bandy soil. The roots should be planted early
in February. Anemones are readily increased
from seed sown as soon as it is ripe, and if the
plants are left in the ground, tl^ey will flows* well
the next Jftrob, , ejj by (J

Arabis and A lys.sum are pretty plants for
rock work or other elevated positions ; they
flower freely and very early. A few good clumps
of Alyssunt saxatile comp&ctum and Arabis
albida help to make a garden gay even while
frost and snow lie upon the ground.

The Aubrietias make excellent companion
plants to the above, their lilac-coloured flowers,
produced in masses, being most effective.
Gentiana acaulis, with its lovely blue blossoms,
is a plant of the easiest culture. It makes an
excellent edging, and does best in very firm soil.

Crocuses, Squills, and Daffodils should be
liberally planted in good large clumps where
they can remain. They grow freely in any
good garden soil, and are best left permanently
in the ground. The drying-off system in bags
is the min of these pretty plants.

Wallflowers are such homely plants that
they ought to find a place near the windows, not
only for the sake of their cheerful flowers, but
more especially for their grateful perfume ; the
single kinds are the earliest to bloom; sow in
March, and transplant in May. Violets of the
single blue kinds should be planted in good
large clumps, readily accessible ; replant after
they have done flowering in May.

Phlox verna and Phlox subulata, with
rosy pink flowers, ought to be far more generally
grown than they are, being perfectly hardy, and
in early spring completely hidden by their
wealth of blossoms.

The above are a selection of really good early
flowers of a permanent character ; but several
biennials, such as Limnanthes Dongl&si, Ne-
mophilas, Saponarias, &c., may be added to the
list. If sown in September, these flower abun¬
dantly the following spring. J. G.

Phlox Drummondi. —This well-known
garden annual has been wonderfully improved
of late years. It is not one of those fleeting
annuals that produce a flush of flower and are
Boon over, like the Candytuft, for example,
but flowers during the whole season. The
colours of the flowers are various—crimson,
purple, intense scarlet, pure white, pink, lilac,
and other shades. Attempts have been made
with considerable success to perpetuate the
best kinds, and some cultivators propagate the
lant by cuttings, like Verbenas, but cuttings to
o well must be put in in August. Seed may
be sown in March in a box in slight heat, and
the plants, if pricked or potted off afterwards,
will plant out successfully in May, This Phlox
is of easy culture.—J. S.

Anemones as annuals.— Judging from
my experience of A. coronaria, I have no doubt
whatever that the best way is to treat it as an
annual ; the first year after sowing our plants
were full of flower all through the autumn and
winter ; the second season, too, we had flowers,
but they were not fit to compare with those of
the first year either as regards quantity or
quality. This being so, I intend in future to
make a fresh sowing every spring, and I would
advise others to do the same ; it is surprising
whatanumberof blooms may thus be got, and at a
time when flowers are scarce. The way to get
a good strain is to keep on saving seed from all
the best sorts, choosing the most distinct and
brightest or clearest in colour ; many have a
dull and ineffective appearance, and these
should be weeded out when discovered. To
grow Anemones well, they must be sown on a
warm sunny border, and have light rich soil,
in which they germinate freely. A good pre¬
paration for them is to dig in a heavy dressing
of leaf-mould or old hotbed manure, and,
having raked the ground level and smooth,
to draw shallow drills a foot or so apart; the
seed should be scattered thinly therein, and
then covered with fine soil. Soon after this the
plants will be up, and ought then to be thinned
oat, so as to leave them 6 inches or 8 inches
asunder. In some gardens slugs are very
troublesome, and quickly eat off any tender
seedlings ; to prevent this, a sprinkling of soot
and lime mixed should be scattered over the bed
early in the morning, when the depredators will
be caught and destroyed at their work. Hand¬
picking is also a good way of getting rid of
slugs, which are always out of their hiding-
laces immediately after rain or heavy dews
uring the night, and they may likewise be
trapped by laying leaves of Broccoli or Cabbage
about places which they frequent.—S, D,

HALF-HARDY ANNUALS.!

I am a regular and interested reader of
Gardening Illustrated, and as some of your
other subscribers may, like myself, have but little
time and few appliances for the recreation of
flower raising, and may be deterred from grow¬
ing half-hardy annuals from seed by the some¬
what elaborate instructions usually given for
this process, my experience of last season may
perhaps be of service to them. I got from my
grocer, without charge, two or three empty boxes
such as are used for sending out corn flour and
similar articles in packets, in size about
24 inches by 18. With a few small pieces of
wood, a saw, and a pocket knife, I made tops
for these, which I glazed. The glass was the
only actual outlay, and cost about eightpence
per box.

In these I put some light, rich, sandy soil, in
which, about the middle of April, I sowed
seeds of Asters, single Dahlias, French Mari¬
golds, &o. They soon came np, and when the
young plants were about 2 inches high I scat¬
tered a thin layer of short manure on the sur¬
face of the soil, which both retained the
moisture and assisted to nourish the plants.
About the beginning of June I planted them out
in the borders. The Asters and Marigolds
commenced to bloom early in August, and the
Dahlias about the end of that month. The
Asters bloomed till the end of September, by
which time they were exhausted. The Mari¬
golds and Asters were in full bloom when
the frost cut them off. The blooms of all
the plants were very good, and while the
Marigolds and Dahlias would have yielded
many more flowers had I been able to
start them sooner, the Asters, which included
Victoria, Qailled, Dwarf Chrysanthemum, and
Shakespeare, gave me all the blooms that they
could possibly give. By adopting a similar
plan, and taking the ordinary precautions of
guarding the young plants from slugs, and the
direct heat of the midday sun, and giving plenty
of air, no one need fail to have an ample supply
of these attractive autumnal flowers. I may
state that I got the boxes and made the tops
the previous autumn, for the purpose of keep¬
ing Pansy and Calceolaria cuttings during the
winter, for which I found them well adapted.
After these were planted out, the half-hardy
seeds were sown, and when these were trans¬
ferred to the borders, the boxes were again
utilised for raising hardy biennials from seed.

Dumbartonshire. B.

SOME PLAGUES OF THE ROCKERY.

Of course you mean snails and weeds ? Well,
they are great plagues, and where the rockery
is small, as mine is, and the plants of each
species to be counted by units instead of by
dozens and hundreds, they are especially
annoying. There cannot be anything more de¬
lightful for the snail or slug than the presence
of a rockery in a garden, and I have no doubt
that if they hold meetings and discuss social
questions they always pass a vote of thanks to
those kind friends who have provided them
with such a paradise. The stones are so
delightful to shelter under, and some of the
plants are such dainty morsels, that they must
be thankful for such kind caterers. How they
luxuriate in Lychnis alpina ! I have one
small clump of it, and I have taken more
than two dozen slugs aud snails, small and
large, off it in one evening. Then how de¬
lightful aro the large, thick leaves of Ramondia
pyrenaica! What a nice Boft counterpane
they make. And then how delightful to be able
to eat one’s bedclothes, especially when one can
find another blanket the next night—far better
than Virgil’s heroes devouring their own tables !
Now, with regard to these peats, there is but
one remedy ; they must be hunted out individu¬
ally, tracked to their habitats, and then ruth¬
lessly slaughtered, and especially whero there
are certain plants to which they are devoted ;
why they should be so, who can tell ? Why, if
there are in the herbaceous border a number of
Delphiniums, they will pick out Belladonna, as
they usually do, ia one of the mysteries of taste
to which we, too, are subject; therefore, when
our friends, the slugs, particularly affect a cer¬
tain plant, guard it well. There is no better
plan for effecting this end than that of
placing a collar of perforated zino round the
plant; there zb something whiotiQfS

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 17, 1885.

584

do not like In ita rough surface, and they
will carefully avoid it; only be sure that
it is well imbedded in the ground, or they will
manage to get underneath it. Then, as to weeds,
why, it may be asked, should there be any
dithculty with them? Can you not pull them
out? Yes; but one cannot do everything
oneself, and I do not find stooping to weed an
agreeable pastime for an elderly gentleman.
You must then commit it to others, and here is
the difficulty ; some of the alpines look so un¬

weed or some too rampant plant, and you pull
it up, but (especially if your sight is not veiy
good) you may possibly pull up a plant with it.
I am frequently accused by my daughter of doing
such things.

But when I began these short notes these two
plagues were not chiefly in my mind, but certain
plants which by their persistence in coming up
everywhere and refusing to be exterminated do
become regular nuisances. To this category be¬
long some of the Sedums (8. acre and others).

manner of places, showing itself with the true
persistency of a Crowsfoot in all directions. Rosa
pyrenaica is another plant that requires to be
carefully watched ; it throws out, in the manner
of its tribe, underground suckers, and will come
up some distance off in the middle of a plant
which you have to disturb to get rid of it; it in
very pretty when kept within bounds. Then
there is another, a Dianthus, which I believe to
! be deltoides (the Maiden Rink), which ruDa all
over the part of the little rockery where it is

CLIMBING TROP.EOLUMS.

Where among climbers hardy and tender can
we find one to equal the old 11 Stuntian ** in effec¬
tiveness? It grows with great rapidity, is at
home in almost any soil and situation, and in a
short time from sowing forms dense masses of
rich or brilliant colour. The ability to resist
draught and an arid atmosphere is one of the
best features of the common Nasturtium, and
should be borne in mind more than is usually
the case by those who have poor porous soils aud
sunburnt positions to deal with. Generous
treatment, indeed, does not best suit this plant.
When it gets free root-run in rich soil it is apt
to run too much to leaf. Climbing Tropreolums
are capable of being employed in many ways.
They may be trained round stakes or pea-sticks,
up poles or strings, so as to cover walla, or they
may be allowed to ramble at will over bushes,
dead trees, or anything similar. One of the
prettiest ways of using them 1 ever saw was in
the case of a small roadside inn, the whole front
of which, from about 4 feet above the ground to
the roof, was covered with them, the plants
being in large pots, and the vine trained on
strings at varying angles. It was one of the
brightest floral displays I ever saw, and cheaply
obtained. I commend this way of growing
Nasturtiums to those who have little front
gardens or paved gardens which they do not
care to disturb, but the situation must be sunny.
Thero is another section of climbing Tropa*o-
lums, equally useful, but in another way—viz.,
those of the Lobbiauum sections, which bloom
in winter. These have a more refined appear¬
ance than the ordinary Nasturtiums, and they
may be used very effectively in the open ground
in Bummer; but, as already mentioned, their
great value consists in yielding abundant flowers
through the winter under glass. Cuttings taken
in April, grown along freely in summer, and
placed under glass in September, will flower iu
an ordinary greenhouse during the dull months,
and will form a blaze of colour in early spring.

J. Corn hill.

commonly like weeds, that even an experienced
grower is sometimes in doubt, while the boy or
woman you employ is not troubled with any
doubts, but simply makes a clean sweep, and
vou go out to find a cherished plant gone.
Where the rockery Is large, as at St. Alban’s
Court, my friend Mr. Hammond has trained
a party for this work exclusivelv; she is
shown what are to come np and what to!
remain ; but then In a small rookery there is I
another difficulty. /Y3b.wan? to_gkt-rid of a
Digitized by (jQi 'VlkL

They throw themselves about in all directions.
They are, however, comparatively easily pulled
up; they make but little root, and it is
only when they insinuate themselves amongst
other small-growing things that they become
a nuisance ; still, a nuisance they are. One
of the most troublesome plants that I have
ever introduced into my small rockery was
a Ranunculus anemonoides ; in an evil hour
l planted it some four years ago, and I
have not got rid of it yet; it comes up in all

planted ; the foliage is neat and the flowers
pretty, hutat the same time it runs over every¬
thing, and if there are delicate-growing plants
in its way it is sure to smother them. J n the
only damp spot in my rockery I have found
Sisyrinchium convolutum equally troublesome ;
it grows very rapidly and chokes other things
which are in the same place and require room.

There is one of the Campanulas (I do not

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URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

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GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

cornea up in all sorts of places far away from
where it was planted, and although I cut it
about as much as I can, the smallest piece of
it seems to grow. I suppose in time I shall
banish it. It is hard to speak of such a little
rid as Campanula pulla as a pest, but Mr. I
Loder tells me that he cannot get rid of it. I
here had as much difficulty in keeping it, as
dogs seem particularly fond of it.

1 have named a few plants which I have found
thus troublesome in the hope that some other
growers may give a warning note as to trouble¬
some plants. I should have been saved a world
of bother if I had known in time before I planted
these which I should have had to repeat, and I
may perhaps be contemplating planting others
which may be equally troublesome. Many
writers are good enough to tell us wh&t to
plant; will some tell us what to avoid ?

Creeping Forget-me-not (Omphalodes
rerna), although by no means & scarce plant in
gardens, is seldom seen in that perfection which,
under favourable conditions, it is capable of
attaining. It seems to thrive best in a damp
shady position, and is seen to best advantage on
projecting ledges of rock where there is
sufficient soil for it to establish itself. In light
sandy soil or in snnny places it never does well;
indeed, if it liveB at all, it is only to eke out a
miserable existence. In the form and colour of
its flowers it much resembles the Forget-me-not,
and when grown as just stated, it forms dense
overhanging masses, literally covered with
pretty little azure white-eyed flowers, opening
in mild seasons as early as February, ana
continuing throughout a good part of the
summer. Its leaves are oval-shaped. A
variety with pure white flowers, sent out by
Continental growers, make a good companion to
it, and requires much the same treatment as the
blue kind.—D. K,

Lawn weeds. —During the last thirty years
I have tried every mode of destroying these that
has been suggested, and, taking the result and
cost of time into consideration, I have come to
the conclusion that the best method of proceed¬
ing is, after the first cutting in the spring, to
put as much salt on each weed as will distinctly
cover it. In two or three days they will turn
brown. Those weeds that have escaped can be
distinctly seen, and the operation should be
repeated. The weeds thus treated die, and in
atxmt three weeks the Grass will have grown,
and there will not be a vestige of disturbance
left. Two jears ago I converted a rough pasture
into a tennis ground for six courts. Naturally,
the turf was a mass of rough weeds. It took
three days to salt them, and the result was curi¬
ously successful. I had one lawn with more
Daisies than Grass, and on September 2, 1881,1
took up the turf, scratched the ground, relaid
the turf upside down, scratched this also, well
seeded it, sprinkled it with soil, and in one
month it was green and hardly distinguishable
from the other parts of the lawn. Similar trials
have been made in each month from March and
as late as August 12, but the earth gaped or
cracked.— Berkshire.

Tritonia aurea.—This, when grown in
pots, is often seen in a poor, wretched condition ;
it is very subject to red spider, which gets on
the leaves, and not only disfigures them but
quite spoils the plant's growth. When planted
out, this insect seldom attacks it; and not only
does the foliage remain free and clean, but the
plants are always much stronger, and produce
more than double the bloom. The flower-spikes
are of great value for cutting, as, besides being
so light and elegant-looking, the flowers are
unique in form and colour, and continue to
open in water. As the bulbs of Tritonia aurea
are not quite hardy, it is necessary to plant in a
warm sheltered place, the most BuitaDle situa¬
tion being close up against the foot of a south
wall, or immediately iu front of a greenhouse or
other glass structure, as there the soil gets a
little warmed from the pipes inside, and thus
frost is prevented from penetrating and killing
or injuring the plants. To make sure of keeping
froBt out and having the bulbs safer, it is a good
plan, before winter sets in, to mulch the ground
above them with Cocoa-nut fibre or half-rotten
leaves as both are capital non-conductors, and
froBt must be very sharp indeed to find its way
through a few inches of either. Iu planting the
Tritonia—which may be -dqne from pots at

almost any time, and early in spring if the
roots are at rest—plenty of sand should be used.
This, insuring quick drainage around the bulbs,
saves them from rot—a malady to which they
are subject when allowed to come in contact
with the wet earth while lying dormant in
winter.—S. D.

EryfchrinaOrista-galli.— Both for green
house decoration and for planting outdoors in
some sheltered corner this plant is very
effective when loaded with its clusters of coral-
red flowers. The most satisfactory way in
which to grow it is to plant it out early in the
summer in rich soil. Its roots may be left in
the ground during winter if covered over
with some dry material to protect them from
frost; but a better way is to lift them in
autumn and store them in a cool house or pit,
planting them out the following May. In warm
soils old plants may now and then be seen that
have been out for years.—W. C.

LIQUORICE.

In former times the culture of this plant formed
an important industry in the neighbourhood of
Pontefract, in Yorkshire, and Worksop, in
Nottinghamshire, where it was supposed to
come to greater perfection than elsewhere. A
hundred years or more ago, when herbal mix¬
tures were more in favour than nowadays,
Liquorice was credited with greater virtues, and
consequently much in demand. It is still, how-

r I
* A

Digitized

do .-dqne from pots

Go gk

\! W

The Liquorice Plant.

ever, grown to some extent in one or two
English counties. It is a native of the south of
Europe, grows about 3 feet high, and bears pale
blue flowers. By the best method of cultiva¬
tion the soil is trenched as for Horse-radish, quite
3 feet deep, and a light sandy loam, such as
grows Carrots well, suits it best. Pieces of root
with the crown are set in rows 2 feet apart
and about a foot from plant to plant. In
October, when the tops die down, give a good
dressing of rotten dung, and in March fork
lightly between the rows. In the course of
three years the roots are ready for use. It is a
very hardy plant, thriving even on the London
clay.

By fleet. J. Cornhill.

Seedling Pentstemons are capital plants
for furnishing a supply of cut blooms. If sown
early, and the seedlings are pricked off in boxes,
so as to get them to make nice little bushy
plants by May, they may be planted out in beds
about a foot apart each way ; iu autumn they
will produce some fine spikes of flower, and they
will make excellent plants the second season.
If saved from a good selection, the produce will
not only be fine, but well varied in colour and
marking. Sprays of Pentstemons are extremely
pretty when out and well arranged indoors, the
blooms being prettily spotted like those of the
Foxglove. In some localities, Pentstemons are
liable to suffer from exceptional visitations of
frost, and, as a precaution, cuttings of them
should be inserted in oold frames in the autumn,
so as to insure a supply if the old plants get
injured ; but Pentstemons are readily increased
by means of seed.—J. G., Gosport,

Primroses and Polyanthuses from
seed. —All the hardy kinds of these may be
sown almost at any time, but the best is March
and April, in boxes, in a cool frame or hand-
light. The seedlings come up irregularly, but
all that do grow will make strong flowering
plants by autumn. The"seed shonld be sown in
a light, rich soil, be barely covered, and should
be kept on the moist side and cool. Our seed
boxes are set on the ground, covered by a small
glass sash, and are constantly shaded from
bright sunshine. As soon as the plants are fairly
up the sash is taken off, and in May or June
they are pricked out in rows in good soil, where
they remain till October, when they are planted
out. Seed is best for getting up a stock soon,
and if a few good packets are sown, they will
provide thousands of plants. Only good strains
should be propagated.—J.

New and old Mignonettes.— For a long
time people have been content with one sort of
Mignonette, an old, free flowering, and very
fragrant sort, the size of the flowers depending
a good deal on culture. We have now, how¬
ever, got by selection about a dozen different
kinds, some of which are a decided improvement
on the old variety in certain respects. AmoBgst
the best is the new Spiral, a free flowering sort
that produces nice-sized heads of flower.
Pyramidalis is a branching variety that produces
very large heads of flower, but it is not a free
grower ; and, considering the purpose for which
Mignonette is grown, I do not think it a useful
kind. Grandinora, gigantea, and other sorts
resemble pyramidalis. Co vent Garden F avourite
is another good variety resembling the Spiral
and better than the common kind in the flower.
All sorts should be Bown outdoors in April, and
the seed should be red-leaded where birds are
troublesome. —S.

REPLIES.

1249L— Narcissus maximus.— This may bo had of
all the leading bulb importers. The true variety averages
about Is. per bulb, the trade variety considerably less. —
T. J. W.

12482.— Sweet William seedlings. —These may
be left where they are until open weather early in March,
when they should be lifted with a ball and placed in their
blooming quarters. They then will begin new growth and
settle down nicely for summer bloom.—T. J. Wkavkr.

12485.—Hyaclnthus candicans— The soil being
dry and well-drained, plant as soon as possible, placing the
bulbs 0 inches deep and about 12 inches apart, as the foliage
is rather large. It looks best among shrubs as its gawky
appearance is then partly hidden. It is quite hardy, and
once planted may be left until it has exhausted the soil.—
T. J. W.

12476.— Red spider on Pansies.— On the
approach of winter red spider dies, therefore
there is no need to adopt remedial measures
before spring. If when the cuttings are then
planted, and they are dipped in a solution of
soft soap at the rate of 2 ounces to the gallon,
the eggs will be killed. The summer being hot
and dry the insect was probably on the plants
when the cuttings were taken. Sprinkling the
plants overhead once or twice a day in hot
weather prevents its getting a hold on them.—
J. C. B.

12498.— Flowers near vinery.— If the
soil be heavy the lime would be beneficial if
dug in. For a rockery in such a position there
are plenty of flowers as well as hardy Ferns.
Try Primulas of sorts, Daisies, London
Pride, Ourisia coccinea, Erythroniums, Fritil-
laria, Anemone coronaria, Forget-me-nots,
Scilla campanulata, Cardaminepratensis, Creep¬
ing Jenny, and Hypericum calycinum. Solo¬
mon’s Seal would flourish amazingly, and the
tall variety would be very effective. Symphytum
caucasicum is bold-looking, and its blue
flowers effective, and, I think, would do well
also. Foxgloves, Anemone japonica, and A. j.
alba, and in the lees shady portions Columbines,
would give a few taller-growing plants.—T. J.
Weaver.

12460. — Holly hooks. — Hollyhocks will
form bushes 6 feet in diameter if they are
allowed to throw up several stems from one
stool, or they will spread out nearly as much if
grown to one main stem and the side branches
are allowed to remain. Say the seeds are sown
in May, which is a good time, the plants will
become very Btrong by the end of the year.
The following season one strong main stem will
be thrown up, which will ultimately branch out
into the form of a pyramid, the lower branches
being the longest. Next sei soii the same plant
would produce three or four stems from the

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 17, 188, f

base ; but they would not be so strong, and the
flowers would also be of inferior quality. My
treatment with the named varieties is to grow
them to one stem only, and to allow the side
growths to remain because they show the
natural habit of the plants. Thoso that grow
spikes for exhibition remove the side growths to
throw all the vigour of the plants into one
supreme effort instead of dividing the sap into
the numerous channels formed by the lateral
stems. It is not safe to allow the best named
varieties to remain out in the open border
through the winter. They ought to be potted
up or planted in frames.—J. D. E.

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK.

Glasshouses.

After the clearing out of Chrysanthemums
from conservatories there is often some falling
off in the display. This should be remedied by
having ready such plants as come into bloom
either naturally at that time or with a little
forcing. For this purpose there are few things
better than the different varieties of winter¬
flowering Salvias. These, combined with
Camellias, forced Lilacs, Hyacinths, Tulips,
Narcissi, Cyclamens, Primulas, double and
single, early sown Cinerarias, pot Mignonette,
Epacrises, Correas, Genistas, and Azaleas, will,
if grown in sufficient quantities, keep up a dis¬
play little inferior to that which may be looked
tor later on.

It often happens that the climbing plants em¬
ployed to oover an end wall of a greenhouse, or
to furnish the roof, are the least satisfactory of
its occupants. This is especially the case when
the plants chosen are naturally of too strong and
vigorous a habit. In this case they either
smother everything else in the house or have to
be so severely cut in as to interfere with their
flowering, and, what is even more detrimental
to their well-being, they generally exhaust the
limited quantity of soil that can be afforded them
to grow in to such an extent that its fertility
cannot be kept up by additions or manuring.
Where such a state of matters exists it is much
the best to remove the old plants and replace
them with others of a less rampant habit ; this
will give an opportunity for completely removing
the soil. This is essential, as with permanent

S lants of this kind comparative little can be
ono in the way of removal without destroying
the roots to an injurious extent. Whatever is
to be done in the way of cleaning conservatory
climbers from the worst kinds of insects that
affect them, such as mealy bug and scale, should
now be carried out while the plants are com¬
paratively at rest, as'during this time the work
can be done much more effectually as well as
with less injury. These pests should be com¬
pletely eradicated, for where nothing is done
beyond periodically freeing the plants from a
portion of them, the work has to be repeated
indefinitely, the result being a continuous ex¬
penditure of labour, with more or less injury to
the plants.

There has of lato years been Buch improve¬
ment in Gloxinias that they may now be had
from seed little inferior to the named varieties,
and, if sown at once in a brisk heat and well
attended to, they will make nice flowering
stock during the summer. The seed should be
sown in a pan filled with fine sifted soil, and
covered thinly with a little of the finest.
Directly the young plants are up they must be
ret close to the glass, as the usefulness of Glox¬
inias is much reduced if they are at all drawn.

The annual cleaning of Camellias by sponging
the leaves and removing scale insects from the
Bhoots should at once bo attended to. In the
neighbourhood of towns, where the atmosphere
is charged with soot, they are greatly benefited
by having their leaves sponged two or three
times a year. If the plants are turned out in
beds—and particularly when grown in pots or
tubs in conservatories, where some warmth is
kept up during the winter—especial care must
bo taken that the atmosphere, as well as the
soil, is not allowed to get dry, orthe buds are sure
to drop; this is particularly the case with the
white varieties, which are more easily affected
in this way than the others. Where any large
plants of inferior kinds exist? that it is intended
to graft with better Borts, they may now bo
headed down and grafted. If the plants are
large and the stems a considerable length before

Digitized by tjOOglC

branching out, they may be cut down 8 inches
or 10 inches above the collar and cleft-grafted,
putting in four or six ; bind the stock round so
as to keep the scions in their places, and sur¬
round the whole with ordinary grafting clay,
after which they may be placed in a house or
pit where a little extra warmth is kept up.
Camellias succeed best when grafted thus early,
before the sap is about to rise.

Young Fuchsia plants, struck from cuttings
at the latter end of summer, that have been kept
on growing slowly in an intermediate tem¬
perature, will now require larger pots. Such
as have occupied 5-inch or 6-inch pots may be
moved into others 2 inches or 3 inches larger.
Use good turfy loam with a little leaf-mould,
some thoroughly rotten manure, and sand in
proportion to the greater or less quantity which
the loam naturally contains ; but Fuchsias do
not require the soil to be quite so open as some
other quick-growing plants do. Pot moderately
firm, and pinch out the points of the shoots to
induce a close, well-furnished condition. A
well-grown Fuchsia should, when in bloom,
present a dense mass of pendant shoots droop¬
ing from a single stem, each clothed with
healthy foliage and flowers. This state can be
secured in these autumn-struck plants in a way
that it is difficult to accomplish with old speci¬
mens, or with later spring-struck stock, although
the latter make nice small examples.

Bedding plants. —It is time that plants
required in quantity, of which the Btock is
limited by reason of restricted space for winter¬
ing, Bhould be started into active growth for
the production of cuttings. Coleus, Iresines,
Alternantheras, and variegated Pelargoniums
are among those that should now be started,
and of the kinds to be raised from seed the fol¬
lowing are now being sown :—Cannas, Cen-
taureas, Ferdinand as, Grevilleas, Solanums,
Ferulas, and Chamrepeuoes. All are sown in
pans and covered with glass till germination
has taken place ; bottom heat required, 65 degs.,
top heat, 70 degs. Cannas that were lifted and
wintered in sheds may now be divided into
single crowns, and be potted in small pots and
started into growth, but the slower the growth
is excited the more robustly will the crownB
come up. Dahlias that are required in quantity
should be at once placed in heat. They pro¬
duce cuttings most freely when planted on a bed
of leaves in the propagating pit. Cocoa fibre
refuse or leaf-soil is just as good to plant them
in as the best soil that can be got.

Shrubbery.

Conifers and other trees.— For all Coni¬
fers and American plants the top-dressing is
vegetable soil, that is, peat or well-rotted leaf-
soil. If well decayed stable manure can be
afforded for mixing with it, the trees will better
appreciate it. Before applying the dressing,
remove all the loose top soil, Moss, Couch
Grass, or other troublesome weeds, and then
give at least double the quantity of the new
dressing in lieu of the old soil cleared off,
making it firm over the roots. If the trees are
on turf, the sods may be at once rolled back,
but should not be beaten down till a good
soaking of rain has taken place to wash the
Boil in about the roots. Ornamental trees of
every sort that seom waning may often be
resuscitated by treatment of this kind. Thorns,
Beeches, Limes, Oaks, and the like are not
particular as to character of soil, provided it is
good. For these kind of trees we usually use
the refuse from Vine and other fruit tree
borders, and apply the manure in the form of
a mulching over the entire Bpace of the new
dressing. When the weather is such that top¬
dressing cannot be proceeded with, the trench¬
ing of ground, draining, &o., by way of
preparation for new plantations, should be done,
it being desirable that all planting be completed
and the roots established in their new quarters
ere there be danger of a check from drying
March winds or early summer drought.

Fruit.

Vines. —Advantage should be taken of bright
days for running up the temperature of the
house after it is closed. Mild weather
will lend an inducement to the maintenance
of a high night temperature, but a period
of rest being absolutely necessary to suc¬
cessful culture, a mean of 60 degs. must not
be exceeded during the hours of darkness.

Run up to 70 degs. on bright mornings, with a
chink of air at the apex, and close early to
insure a rise to 75 degs. for a short time, with
plenty of atmospheric moisture. Continue direct
syringing until the bunches are well formed,
and increase the fire heat if they show signs of
running to tendril and drawing up towards the
glass. Many growers leave off syringing as soon
as the vines break, but whenever early forcing
is carried on against Nature, a good Byringe in
Blulful hands plays a very important part in
keeping the vines clean, healthy, and vigorous
through the early stages of growth. If pruning
and cleansing in late houses be still in arrear,
lose no time in bringing this work to a clos e.
Avoid the barbarous practice of depriving the
rods of their natural protection by scraping off
the bark, but wash them well with strong soap-
water, and keep the ventilators open until the
time arrives for starting the vines. Prepare
Muscat houses for shutting up at the end of the
month by giving repeated waterings to inside
borders, and have a good body of well-worked
fermenting material ready for use as an econo¬
miser of fire heat, as well as to produce a mild,
soft atmosphere, so essential to the proper
filling and bursting of the buds. If Mus¬
cats are brought on steadily, they will
break evenly, and set their fruit better than
if placed under high pressure before they come
into flower; moreover, having the whole of
the summer before them, the fruit will become
thoroughly ripe by the end of August, the vines
will have a long season of rest, and the Grapes,
being finished under bright sun heat, will be in
the best possible condition for keeping after re¬
moval to the Grape room. A mid-season house
containing mixed kinds may now be started in
the usual way.

Vegetables.

Early Potatoes should now be on the move,
and the sprouts strong and vigorous. Early
Peas on south borders should be earthed up and
sticked. Nothing hurts young Peas so much as
dry, harsh winds. Some growers run the plough
up the middle of each row and leave the Peas in
a valley, and thus the winds blow over their
heads ; this is a capital plan, and one of which
we have for several years known the benefit.
A sowing of second earlies may be made at once.
Another sowing of Beans should be made at
once. This is a good time to form and plant
new Horse-radish beds. The land should be
thoroughly trenched ; after this operation wait
until the surface gets dry and workable. Plant
1 foot apart in the row, 3 feet row from row,
with a crowbar, selecting young growing pieces
with a top. Globe Artichokes may also be
planted on rich land, and it should be borne in
mind that the larger the top or crown, the better
it is liked. Rhubarb (Hawk’s Champagne) is
now grand in quality grown and forced in clean
leaves, which are much better than manure. A
forkful of long manure placed on the covers just
now on outside beds will soon cause Rhubarb
to push, and the same may be said of Seakale ;
but even in this case there should be ashes first,
and then a little long manure over all. Excel¬
lent Rhubarb, much superior to long lean stalks,
will thus be roady in March. We get our
earliest spring Potatoes out of boxes 2 feet
square. We fill them with leaf-soil and loam,
and plant nine good sets in each. When they
arc 9 inches high we give each a good watering
and earth up, making each box, or rather the
soil in the box, into a sharp ridge. They are
most impatient of too much water ; seldom is
any more required after this earthing up. They
are grown in Peach houses under the trees, and
prove most serviceable. Early Peas in boxes
we grow in vineries for the present. We have
now ready for use Rhubarb, Seakale, Asparagus,
French Beans, Tomatoes, Snow’s White Broc¬
coli, and Brussels Sprouts.

Cucumbers. —A few seeds of Telegraph may
now be sown in small pots filled with light, rich
soil, and placed near the glass in a light, well-
heated pit. Cuttings of a good strain may
also be struck in a sharp bottom-heat, provided
they can be taken from healthy plants which
are free from insects. To ensure success, select
firm, short-jointed Bhoots, insert them singly in
small pots filled with fibry turf, previously
warmed to a temperature of 80 degs., plunge
under bell-glasses, and treat as seedlings after
they are well rooted. Where Cucumber
houses are divided into Bections ; this is a good

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

.88

GAB,DEWING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 17, 188

will ripen Grapes to perfection. All that
is needed is to start the vines two or
three weeks earlier. This is the safe plan for
those whose gardener i9 perhaps groom as well,
because, after having got a slight heat in his
pipes in the morning, and opened the ventilators
sufficiently back and front for the season, he may
leave the vinery for the most part of the day
without further anxiety, because the temperature
for the time will not then fall too low. I could
for many years have shown successful examples
of this kind of management in the case of growers
having only one vinery and no regular gardener.
Asarule the ventilators are altered perhaps about
twice a day—opened in the morning, and partly
closed in the evening, sufficient heat being main¬
tained in the pipes to keep the atmosphere
buoyant and dispel stagnant vapours that might
encourage mildew. As regards colour and
flavour, the Grapes have been of the highest
quality, and the crop good.

I have recommended the above varieties of
Grapes to afford a long supply; but, without
exception, the Black Hamburgh, it may be added,
is the best and most easily grown Grape of any,
as well as the most acceptable for dessert, and
anyone might provide a four or six months’
supply of that Grape alone, with a little skilful
management, ripening the first in July and the
second in September, or even later. C.

THE BUD ON BLACK CURRANT BUSHES.

At this season of the year, when the process of
pruning is gone about, and before new planta¬
tions are made in spring, it may be timely to
call attention to the above disease. It is gene¬
rally known, however, that there is no remedy
for it other than consigning to the flames those
bushes affected with it, and planting a clean
stock in another part of the garden. As I have
grappled with this disease under various circum¬
stances, and have heard and read, many
suggestions, both practical and theoretical, re¬
specting its cause, prevention, and cure, I
naturally had a desire to investigate the matter
for myself, so far as my resources and oppor¬
tunities would allow. A favourable opportunity
to investigate the disease through a powerful
microscopical instrument, aided by light re¬
flectors, was lately offered to me through the
kindness of a gentleman, who not only
gave me the use of the instrument for
the purpose, but directed and assisted me
in taking the observations. I selected a
shoot of last summer’s growth, and examined
its exterior minutely. Then we cut off a fresh
like bud and parted it in two, thus revealing
its interior, and there we saw a large number of
a maggot-like insect displaying unmistakable
evidences of vitality. Their substance appeared
to be of a clear, frosty-white nature, and in form
they resembled a small maggot, having long
thread-like antenna? and a number of slender
limbs close to the head, while they seemed to
have the power of fastening themselves by their
tail end to any substance, and of reaching their
bodies over space in a horizontal position as if
to feel for other matter by their antennae,
whereon to take hold and bridge themselves
across. This they seemed to do with great ease.
We examined all the buds on the growth of an
abnormal size, some in a more advanced stage
of decay than others, and found insects in
large numbers in every one, but in no
other stage of existence, nor was there any
alteration in their size or substance. The
bud at the point of the shoot, commonly
called the terminal bud, was fresh and healthy,
of regular size and form, and, on examination,
we found it to be clean from the insects. We
examined, also, the bark and pith of the growth,
and detected none; but the colour of the matter
had a resemblance to the substance of the insect.
Now I do not think I am starting a new theory
respecting this disease, but rather confirming
one I have seen advocated somewhere pro¬
nouncing it a constitutional one. These insects,
or maggots, are bred in the system of black
Currants—like worms in the animal intestines
—and permeate the whole system by the flow of
the sap. Whether the germs of this insect life
are taken in by the roots—the organs that act
the part of the stomach in animals—or by the
leaveB, that act the part of lungs, I am unable
to decide without further investigation; but
that the insects finch their way iifto the system
of the bushes (jasir^rt^ 1 (0- of these

channels I think is quite obvious, first from the
fact that we could not, under the closest
scrutiny, find the least indication of these
having entered the bud as insects from the
exterior ; and, secondly, from the uniform and
universal way in which the bushes are affected.
No other theory will account for the irre¬
mediable and wholesale destructive nature
of the attacks of this disease. Perhaps
some of your readers have studied and investi¬
gated it much further than I have, both as to
its cause and effects ; and I am sure many
besides myself will be glad to have their
observations on the subject through the
medium of your valuable journal.

Paisley . F. Davidson.

REPLIES.

12601.— Grape for open air.— The best of all Grapes
for open air culture in England is Royal Muscadine, a
white kind, grown in Franco as Chosselog do Font&in-
bleau.—J. D. E

12497.—Pruning Medlar tree.—If a tree

has been blossoming a little and does not bear,
having occupied the ground for fifteen years, it
may be fairly termed a useless encumbrance.
We do not prune our Medlar trees at all; they
grow just as they please, unless the wood
becomes too thick, when the surplus branches
are cut out. Under these conditions they
blossom and bear freely.—J. D. E.

12409. — Continental Strawberries. —
Dr. Niedise is a large-fruited kind, cropping
well, but quite second-rate in quality. There
are so many large-fruited kinds bearing fruit of
excellent flavour, that it is scarcely worth while
growing one not up to the mark in this respect.
With regard to the perpetual bearing qualities
of General Pelissier, they appear to be well
authenticated—at any rate, very favourable
reports have appeared in the French gardening
papers. It appears to us something similar to
Vicomtesse H^ricourt d'e Thury, possessing the
autumnal bearing capacity of that variety in a
most marked degree.—B yft.eet.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 570, J

The Jerusalem Artichoke.

This root has never been much in favour with
the masseB. Its peculiar flavour and close
waxy texture compare unfavourably with a good
dish of floury Potatoes, and hence it is never
likely to rank so high in the estimation of the
general public as that valuable esculent; still, in
middle class families it furnishes a desirable
change, and is well worth growing to a limited
extent. It is very prolific, and will succeed in
any kind of soil, and in every situation. But
though it will grow anywhere, it succeeds best
in a deep, somewhat light well-drained soil, in
an open sunny situation.

Selection of the Seed.

This Artichoke under ordinary culture has
rough uneven tubers, but it is possible by care
in selection to modify this roughness. If, when
lifting the crop, the smoothest and handsomest
medium-sized tubers are placed on one side
for planting the following season, one step in
advance will be taken ; and if this be repeated
for several years a sensible improvement will
be seen. The planting should take place in
March, early in the month. Draw drills 3 feet
apart, as for Potatoes, plant the tubers
18 inches apart in the drills, and cover about 3
inches deep. In damp soils plant on the
surface, and cover with the hoe, drawing the
soil from each side of the rows to form a ridge
over the sets. The summer culture only amounts
to one or two hoeings early in the season, as
after the plants begin to grow they smother all
weeds. The frost kills all growth above ground
in winter, but does not hurt the tubers, and
most people leave them in the ground, digging
up a few as required, but laying in a larger stock
when severe froBt is expected. Sometimes
when frost sets in they arc covered with litter.
Although that is not necessary as a protection,
it enables them to be taken up during sharp
weather, when tho ground would otherwise be
frost-bound, and the tubers are better flavoured
when freshly lifted from the earth. From their

freedom from disease, and heavy cropping;
qualities, and the very small amount of ex¬
pense attending their cultivation, they mighty
where land was plentiful, be grown for stock
feeding, as all things about a farm eat them
readily, even rabbits and hares being fond of
them, both tops and tubers.

As a Screen j

In summer they are useful to hide any unsightlyi
object, even buildings being hidden in a short;
time by the rapidly ascending stemB, clothed;
with broad Sunflower-like leaves—in fact, the
lant is a tuberous Sunflower, as may be seen
y an examination of its flowers, which are pro¬
duced freely enough by well-developed plants]
in a warm summer. When grown as a blind
they may be left in the ground till March, and]
then trench the ground over, taking out the
largest, but leaving a sufficiency of the remainder
to plant the land again. In ordinary culture
the crops should be taken up before growth
begins, say about the end of February,
and all the tubers should be taken out, aa every
bit will grow if left in the ground. Rotation
of crop may not have as much weight with this
plant as many others, still it is as well to have
a change annually, following the same routine
as other crops. This must always be regarded
as a background plant; but in no case should
it be planted under trees.

Broad Beans.

The first sowing, if made in the open ground,
should take place in December or January,
when the soil is in suitable condition. Select
a warm sheltered situation, draw drills 5 or
6 inches wide and 2 inches deep, plant the
Beans in a double row by placing the Beans
alternately on each side of the drill 5 inches
apart, and cover with the dry Boil. Mice are
very fond of these Beans, and as soon as the
Beans are planted set two or three of the
common brick traps. A few coal ashes sprinkled
along the surface of the soil over the rows
generally acts as a deterrent. But the best way
of raising the first early Beans is to sow them in
January in boxes and place them in some house
or pit where there is a little artificial heat.
A temperature of 50 degs. will be ample.

Beans Transplant Well,

And, early in March, when they have been
sufficiently hardened off, they should be planted
out in rows in the open ground, sheltering them
by drawing up ridges of soil on each side
and sticking a few Spruce or Yew tree
branches on the cold side. They may be planted
either in single or double rows. I confess I
like the Bingle rows best. I always find trans-
lanted Beans are more branching in their
abit, generally throwing out side shoots from
the bottom, than when the Beans are started at
first in the open-air. When planted in single
rows the distance between them should bo

2 feet. If double rows are planted the dis¬
tance between the rows should be increased to

3 feet, with, in the case of the early sorts, 5 inches
between the Beans in the rows. The Windsor
Beans planted later should have a little more
space. Successional crops should be planted
at the beginning and end of March, again in
April, and again for late bearing in May. It is
not much use planting Beans after May. I
have sometimes had a fair crop from Beans
planted in June ; and where late Beans must be
had it is as well not to neglect the opportunity
of securing them which June planting gives.
But where the pods are cloBely gathered from
the March and April plantings, if the stems are
out down to within 6 inches of the ground, a
new growth will break out again, which will
bear a better crop than later sowings will do,
simply because the early sown plants hare
obtained a better grasp of the soil, and are con¬
sequently in a better position to resist the heat
and drought of August. But plants from which
this is expected must not be allowed to expend
themselves unduly by carrying their first crop
too long, or until the seeds are approaching
maturity, as this will take away all vigour or
inclination to Btart a new growth. The object
of the plants—viz., to ripen seeds, and so
effect their perpetuation—being accomplished
there is no inducement to move without Borne
stimulus, which, as a rule,, cannot be given to
common things like Beans. Where this latter

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jah. 17, 1885.]

GARDENING ILL USTRATED

objection does not apply, a good soaking of
liquid manure and a mulching will expedite
matters amazingly. Aa the different sowings
or plantings advance in growth they should
be earthed up, aa it supports and shelters
them very considerably, and when a sufficient
number of blossoms are expanded to form a
crop the points of the plants may be nipped out
with a sharp hook. Sometimes the black
aphis attacks the plants, usually settling on
the extreme points ; and, when this is so, nip¬
ping off the tops, if done carefully, will remove
them, leaving the plants clean. The prunings
must, of course, be taken away and destroyed.
There is hardly a garden in the kingdom where
Beans are not grown, therefore one need not say
much anent the character of the soil most suit¬
able for Bean culture, though when one has a
choice between light and heavy land it is always
best to plant the main crop on the heavy
land, as Beans always bear the best crops and
produce the tenderest and best flavoured Bean
on rather stiff soil.

Varieties.

The old Mazagans are losing caste for garden
culture, as the Longpods are much better for
early planting. Tho Early Green Longpod is
my favourite. Beck’s Green Gera is a dwarf,
free-bearing kind, well adapted for planting on
south borders to come in early. I prefer the
Green Windsor for late use to any of the broad
forms of the Windsors, the last being, in my
estimation, too coarse to send to table, as well
as being bad in colour. Those three varieties
will satisfy most people who look for quality
only, but for exhibition the large-podded kinds
must be grown, the best of these being the
Seville Longpod and Carter’s Mammoth;
Hardie’a Pedigree and Taylor’s Broad Windsor
may be grown by those who like largo Beams.

Dwarf French Beans.

Though not as a rule so highly esteemed as
the Scarlet Runners, this is a most valuable
summer vegetable. To have it in the best pos¬
sible condition plant thinly, and pick all pods
aathey become fit for use. Thick planting and
leaving the pods till they get too old for use
ruin the present crop, and put a stop to all
farther production. It is especially valuable for
small gardens, because it will grow anywhere
and involves no expense for supports.

The early crop should be planted in a warm,
sunny position on a south border or at the foot
of a south wall about the middle of April; when
they come up shelter with a few low branches,
and draw up a ridge of soil on each side as a
further shelter. Draw drills 2 inches deep and
plant the Beaus 6 inches apart in single rows. I
have seen these Beans sown in the drills like
Peas ; but this is a great mistake, as each
plant, if it is expected to do its best, should
have a separate and independent existence. In
no other way can it acquire the necessary
strength and vigour to be lastingly productive.
The second sowing may be made in the open
quarter about the 1st of May. The early
crop should be composed of early varieties, of
which there are now a great mauy kinds, but
the Beans are mostly Bmall. The second sowing
should be of such kinds as the Negro Long¬
pod, and the main crop, which will follow in
succession, being planted at intervals of three
weeks or so from the 1st of May till the end of
June, should bo the Canadian Wonder. This
variety I believe to be the best. It bears a long
pod, which does not get tough so soon as many
sorts do. The extent of the sowings must
depend upon the demand. A pint of seed, in
the second or third week in April, will plant a
good-sized bed. For small gardens probably
half a pint will be enough, if planted thinly, for
the first crop, as the second crop, planted in the
beginning of May, will follow closely. With
this second crop it is a good plan to include one
or more of the later kinds ; indeed, I generally
plant three kinds, which usually form a good
succession if rightly selected. Say, for instance,
we plant one or more rows of the Early New-
ingtons, or Osborn's Forcing, the same quantity
each of the Negro Longpod and Canadian
Wonder; we Bhall then have a succession
coming on in proper order, though all planted
at the same time. Now as regards position for
the successive crops. Wherever the soil is in
good condition this Bean will thrive, if it has
room enough to stribr -eut. It is p very
different plant treated ilthis wap fr^Ttyp|pit is

when crowded together. The Longpods may
be 6-inchea apart in the drill, and the Canadian
Wonder should have still more space. I attach
so much importance to this matter that I cannot
help reiterating

Allow Plenty of Space,

If it is desired that the plants should he pro¬
ductive. I have said the position of this crop
is a matter of no great importance after May
comes in, but an open, sunny situation is the
best. I have in hot, dry seasons, planted in
June under a north wall with success ; but it is
an Eastern plant, and delights in sunshine, if
rightly treated. I shall refer to the forcing of
this Bean under glass in a future article on
forcing vegetables, so shall confine my present
remarks to open-air culture; but in many
good gardens, where there are glasshouses and
frames, the early crops are frequently sown
somewhat thickly in boxes under glass, and
transplanted when 2 or 3 inches high, or when
the rough leaves appear. This Itean trans¬
plants well, and with care in sheltering when
first planted out the crop is usually a success.
The distance between the rows must in some
measure depend upon the kind of Bean planted.
Two feet will be enough for tho early kinds,
but 3 feet will not be too much for the robust
varieties, such as the Canadian Wonder.

The Last Sowing

Should be made not later than the middlo of
July, and should consist of a small early kind,
Buch as the Newington, which should be planted
in a warm position on a south border; it
may be worth while to make some provision for
giving shelter to this crop in order to prolong
the season. There is no difficulty, providing
one has the means, in gathering French Beans all
the year round, as the autumn crop, if started
early enough under glass, will meet tho pro¬
tected crop on the south border.

Watering and Mulching.

Though undoubtedly water is a great help to
this as well as most other crops in a dry and
arid time, yet as there are in tho garden other
plants which suffer more from drought, it is
seldom French Beans arc watered. A mulch of
half decayed manure will in this case be better
than watering, and will keep the plants thriving
and fresh at a small expense, and if the Beans
are picked off as fast as they become fit, they
will bear continuously for a long time.

Varieties.

To the kinds I have already named I would
add, for the advantage of those who desire more
variety, the following : Ne Plus Ultra, Veitch’s
Improved Longpod, and Fulmer’s Forcing.

Preserving Beans for Winter Use.

In summer, when Beans are plentiful, they
may be preserved in the following manner :
Dress the Beans as is usual for cooking, place in
stone jars, with Balt strewn plentifully among
them, and keep air-tight till required for use.
Before using, soak tho Beans in fresh cold
water for several hours, changing the water
once or twice. E. Hobday.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

CELERY TRENCHES.

These are of different sorts and sizes. Some
cultivators like wide trenches, others narrow
ones. Some make them deep, others shallow.
Wide trenches are the most economical, so far
as labour and land are concerned, as having
half-a-dozen rows or more in one trench is a
wholesale way of growing Celery, but I have
always found the best Celery to be produced in
single trenches. When grown in single rows it
can be earthed up to perfection, a great point in
its favour. For salading, especially, quality
stands above everything, and the mode of cul¬
ture which will secure this in the greatest degree
is the one to follow ; therefore I advocate its
growth in Bingle rows, or at most, in double
rows. In single rows, the trenches Bhould be
about 15 inches in width, and a space of
18 inches should be left between each trench.
In two-rowed trenches the space must be in¬
creased a little ; for these wo make the trenches
from 20 inches to 2 feet wide, leaving abont the
same width between them. In making them
wider still, 6 inches should be allowed for every
additional row, and they may go on until they
are 4 feet, 5 feet, or 6 feet wide. The depth

varies sometimes, but 9 inches is deep enough to
meet all requirements. We have varied them
hut gained nothing either one way or the other.
In some cases they are not thrown up until the
plants are ready for putting into them, but we
always make ours early in April, and this gives
us plenty of time to take a crop of Turnips,
Spinach, or Lettuce off the tops of tbs ridges
before the Celery requires to be earthed up.
The ridges should be put up straight and firm
enough to stand until broken down for earthing
up the Celery, but more work than this need
never be bestowed on them. J. Muir,

Paraffin casks for covering 1 Seakale.
—Those who, like myself, have paraffin casks at
command, and a brisk demand for Seakale, may
use them as follows :—Plant six crowns instead
of three in groups 4 feet apart, to be covered
when required with the casks. Before using the
latter they must be burned out, scrubbed, and
sawn through the middle, the ends being taken
out carefully to form lids. From under these
casks I have cut (the second year after planting)
from 6 lb. to 8 lb. of good stout Kale from one
group. I cover only with Oak leaves except in
case of severe weather, when a layer of stable
manure is laid on the top to assist in keeping up
the temperature.—D. H.

Dandelion.— Where salads are iu daily re¬
quest, blanched Dandelion leaves will be found
useful for cutting up with the other ingredients,
especially when blanched Endive is ecarce.
Many eat the young leaves of Dandelion when
green and tender between thin slices of bread
and butter. Seeds of it may either be sown, or
crowns may be taken up, planted in rows
9 inches apart, and 4 inches from plant to
plant; or cuttings may be made of the young
roots, choosing the strongest for the purpose.
Cut them into lengths of from 6 inches to
9 inches, and plant them in rows the eame as
crowns. If grown in the garden, care must be
taken to cut off all flower-stems as they appear,
in order to prevent the dispersion of the seeds.
During November lift the roots and store them
in a cellar, covering them with sand. A few
may be potted and put into a warm, dark place,
so that the leaves may get perfectly blanched
before using them. During summer they may
be blanched by covering the crowns in the rows
with boxes or flower-pots. The broad-leaved
variety will be found more productive and
better than the common kind.—W m. Christi-
son.

REPLIES.

12442.— Tomato Growing.— In reply to
** J. T.,” in your issue of December 27, who, by
the way, does not ask the question he intended
to do, I can add little to my statement of
November 22. I have been waiting for some
reply to my anxious inquiry from “Jersey
Gardener,” who apparently can enlighten both
myself and “ J. T.” on this subject. There
only remains for me to describe tho initial busi¬
ness of explaining tho raising and potting of the

F lants. I raise my own from cuttings and seed.

have already some struck cuttings and also a
few seedlings, and I now put seed iu for making
up the total number for fruiting this year. I
pot off into fruiting boxes or pots as soon as the
plants are about 9 inches high. Great care as
to drainage should be taken. A mixture of
stable manure, with the rank heat expended,
and loam with a liberal allowance of bone meal,
say £ lb. per plant, well pressed down, and
soaked with tepid Boft water, will start the
plants growing atouce. I allow only two stems
to go up, and I take out only the lateral shoots.
The air should be kept dry, and water should
never be given below a temperature of 60 degs.
I may add that last year in a house (span) 15 feet
by 10 feet I cut from twelve plants, grown iu
the manner described, over seven hundred good-
sized Tomatoes of the large red kind. — \Y.
Barnes.

12475 — Good Mushroom spawn.—I think if “T.
Rider" tried Me-sra Cutbuah'a, of Loudon, Mushroom
Bpawn he would get what he requires. I used his spawn
for several years and always had good Mushrooms, both
quantity and quality, as we used to cut all the year round.

—E. S HARROUNK.

12492.—Potatoes.—I have been cultivating many
varieties of Potatoes during the last twenty years, and
after many trials decided to irrow last season Uxbridge
Kidney, Yeitoh's Improved Ash Leaf, Sutton’s Early
Regent, Lady Truscotc, Schoolmaster, and Victoria.
Schoolmaster is to be discarded this season. A few of
Champion is also grown for lato uss.—J. D. E.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[.Tan. 17, 1885.

500

BEES.

SEASONABLE NOTES.

Dorino the past year apiculture has made
great progress, more honey has been produced
than has been known for many years past, and
the increase of the number of those who hare
taken to bee-keeping, either from the pleasure
connected with it as a rural pursuit, or from the
profit arising from it as a business, has been
great. Owing to the increased quantity of land
which is annually being laid down for per¬
manent pasture and planted for fruit orchards in
this country, there would appear great probability
of a continued increase of the honey harvest.
Hitherto a great and pressing want has been
felt among bee-keepers, namely, a reliable
market for their honey ; this, at last, has been
met by the formation of the British Honey
Company, which has the support of the leading
bee-keepers, the primary object of the company
being to develop the industry of bee-keeping
by purchasing and disposing of honey produced
in the United Kingdom.

Store *.—Hives that are known to be well
stored with provision need little attention at
this season. Although the weather through the
winter has so far been fairly favourable to the
well-doing of the inmates of the hive, still,
owing to the temperature having been some¬
what high, the consumption of stores has been
considerab' ?, and those hives that were not well
provisioned in the autumn will Boon be found
in a state of need. It is exceedingly bad policy
to disturb the bees by making examination of
hives at this season, but should there be in the
bee-keeper's mind any suspicion of a stock run¬
ning short of stores, then he may on a mild day
gently remove the gilt and other covering of
frames (if his bees are in bar-frame hives), and
observe the position of the cluster of bees. If
they are 1 iw down between the combs this will
indicate that they still have a good stock of
stores remaining. Bees always cluster in empty
combs, an i begin the consumption of their stores
from the lo war parts of the combs, and gradually
work upw irds; if, therefore, they are found on
the top of the combs it may at once be concluded
that the stores in those combs are almost, if not
quite, exhausted. The only safe way of feeding
in winter is by placing cakes of candy on the
frames under the gilt; in this position it
can be consumed by the bees as needed, or it
may be fixed in frames, and inserted in the hive
at the sides of the duster. Liquid food should
on no account be given during the winter, it
being very liable to cause dysentery in the hive.

Winter food .—The candy is made by putting
into a saucepan about three-quarters of a pint of
water, letting it boil, and then gradually
stirring into it six pounds of lump sugar ; keep
boiling, and stir to prevent burning. To test
when it is sufficiently boiled, a little should be
dropped on a plate, when if it sets hard on cool¬
ing, and is crisp and brittle, it is done enough.
It can now be poured into saucers, and will in
half an hour be hard and ready for use. It will
be found of great advantage to place paper in
the saucers before pouring the candy into them ;
the paper will stick to the candy, and will
prevent the gilt adhering to it when placed in
the hive. Should the bees of any hive be found
actually dying of starvation, the only remedy
is to remove the hive at once into a warm room
(first stopping the entrance with a piece of per¬
forated zinc), and to supply them with warm
syrup. These measures will soon restore them
to aotivity, when they should be returned to
their stand, well and warmly covered up, and a
slab of candy placed over the frames. When
the bees have become quiet the perforated zinc
should be removed from the entrance.

Removing dead bees .—In fine weather during
winter the bees may often be seen casting out
their dead. This they do on every favourable
opportunity ; but if there be a long spell of cold
weather the bees, not venturing to pass the
entrance with their dead comrades, leave them
in numbers at the mouth of the hive, which
becomes blocked. It is, therefore, a wise precau¬
tion to search the floor-board with a bent wire
occasionally during the winter. The wire should be
strong, long enough to reach all round the floor¬
board, with end bent, the bent end being of a
length to allow of its being easily withdrawn
through the mouth of the hive. Speoial attention
should be given to keeping clear of dead bees
the 8mall passage w/ysYn divinon bloards that

DigitWby

ear of dead

are used to reduce the size of hives. When
snow is on the ground hives should be shaded
from the rays of the sun, as bees then are often
tempted ,by the brightness to leave the hive,
when many drop upon the snow and perish.
Bees, if poorly wintered, require the greater part
of the following season to recover themselves,
and seldom yield their owner any surplus stores;
well wintered bees, on the contrary, are ready
for work when the flowers appear and make
good returns. S. S. G.

Borworth.

POULTRY.

REPLIES.

12510 — Chickens dying. —Your query
somewhat puzzles us. We cannot understand
chicken turning black and swollen. Your run
must be quite unsuited for keeping fowls, very
damp ana unhealthy we should think. This is
the only cause that we can imagine would pro¬
duce Buch a state of affairs. If you feea as
described nothing could be better. We suspect
you are very much overcrowded, and that the
runs and coops have become sour and tainted.
This, coupled with exposure and damp, would
carry off chickens as fast as they are hatched.
Give a fresh piece of ground for a run or well
turn over the old piece and attend to the
drainage. Is your strain of fowls worn out by
constant in-breeding? If so the sooner you
import some fresh blood the better. Also see
that the chicken have not access to some foul
dirty supply of water.— Andalusian.

12509. — Fowls shedding feathers.— If,
as you state, your birds, although properly fed
and looked after, shed their feathers at all times
of the year, there is very little doubt that one
or more of them are feather eaters. This vice
is not at all uncommon, especially where the
run is small and too crowded. The only plan
is to watch closely, especially after a good feed.
The bird or birds possessing feather eating pro¬
pensities will soon be discovered pluckiog out
and consuming the feathers of the other birds.
Hens are most given to feather eating, it is very
seldom a cock does it; in fact, he is generally
the first to suffer, and his hackle feathers prove
an irresistible morsel to the female cannibal. It
is very difficult to effect a cure, and unless the
bird be a valuable one, it is far the best to kill
it at once, as we are strongly of opinion that the
vice is infectious. Much, however, may be done
by giving a larger run if possible, with occu¬
pation, by scratching in some refuse. Give a
complete change of diet, and if meat has not
formed a part of their daily rations let a regular
supply be given them. On the other hand, if
meat has been given every day, withhold a part,
or even all. Try also separation for a time, or by
placing among strange birds. Irritation of the
skin often causes birds to pluck out their own
feathers. This is attributed to want of cleanli¬
ness, and damp houses and runs. Anoint the
parts which appear bare with grease of some
kind ; or, better still, with petroleum ointment.
If the houses are not kept clean and regularly
whitewashed, minute animalcule often infest
fowls, and eat and bore through the feathers
until they fall ont. The best remedy is a good
dust bath in which a handful of powdered
sulphur has been mixed. Also anoint the birds
under the wings with oil and turps. Many
hens become bare at the back of the neck and
on the back from the attentions of the cock.
If so, place a few more hens in the run. The
loss of feathers certainly detracts from the ap¬
pearance of fowls, yet if, as you state, your hens
are healthy and lay well, we do not know that
you have muoh to complain of. It is evident
you have too many birds in your small run.
Can you not enlarge it?— Andalusian,

- I think “J. E.” will find that this

trouble is purely the result of over-feeding.
I have kept fowls for many years, and in the
early days of my experience I killed them with
kindness. Daring those years I was constantly
annoyed by the unsightly habit of feather pluck¬
ing. ^ It is to Gardening Illustrated that I
am indebted for the first hints on the subject,
and since I have paid more attention to the
regulation of the diet the trouble has oeased to
exist, and is now quite a thing of the past. It
is also essential to the health of fowls that they
have active employment, and for this reason I
think a brick floor very bad, however clean it

may be kept. They cannot scratch, which
exercise I hold to be a necessary part of their
healthy existence. Green food should be tied
up, just high enough to make them jump for it,
and cut Grass should be enclosed in netting and
hung up for the same purpose.—S. L. S.

QUESTIONS.

12669.—Fowls and Privet berries.—Are Privet
berries i>oino iou» for fowls s . an to nuke a Privet h* go
undesirable round chicken rung?—E nquirer.

12560.— Rearing turkeys.—Aa I intend this spring
trying to rear a tew turkeys, I should be glad if any of
your readers could give me information m to the proper
time of hatching them, their food, shelter, >vc., and also
tell me if there Is one breed more hardy than another ?—
A. S. F. K.

12561.— Incubators.— As the time is coming near for
hatching I would be glad to hear the experienoe of some¬
one who has tried an incubator—by whom they are made,
and for how many eggs, and the p ice. Is it possible to
get one second-hand, or is there a chance rf its being out
of repair ? Aro they better heated by a lamp or boiling
water? As I know nothing whatever about them any hints
will be moet acceptable. I should also like to know about
artificial mothers.— Mrs. L.

ANSWERS TO QUERIES.

(MISCELLANEOUS.)

12440.— Reading lamp cement.— A better cement
than plaster of Paris and water is piaster of Paris and
gum. Make some fairly strong gum with ordinary gum
arabio, and mix in the plaster of Paris until it Is a stiff
paste ; use cold and at once. This cement is used, I
Believe, for mending meerschaum pips*, and is proof
against both moisture and warmth.—ft.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Mubiiroom spawn (Delta).— Try Messrs. Cutbush, High-

gate, London.- Cranbf.rrirs (Mist Bronlcj.— Cranberries

are frequently sold in grocers’ shops in London. The
excellent preserve may be had through the stores, and as
made in America Cranberry jelly stands before all

others.- Wholesals bixb dkalers (Jno. Thompson).—

We cannot reoommend houses except in the caeo of rare
plants or specialities. Consult our advertising columns, in

which everything you seek will be found.- (J . Wallis

and others J.—We cannot undertake to forward letters to
correspondents, and all communications must be made

through the medium of this journal.- (A. It ).—We think

it should he used among any other miscellaneous manuie
for rough vegetahlo culture —Ed.

Names of fruits —M. E. Eduards —Pear, Ne Plus

Meuris.- J. C. Bushton.— Pear, Joiephino de >1 alines ;

Apples, 1 and 2, same variety, probably Beauty of Kent.

- 0. S. Thompson .—Cannot name.— J. H. B —1, Man-

nington’s Pearmain ; 2, Golden Reinette- C. Bray. —2

and 3, Not known ; 4, Wellington ; 6, White Buckiand ; 6,
Probably Egg or Paradise. - F.. Grose — 1 and 2, Blen¬

heim Orange ; 3, Waltham Abbey Seedling.

Protective power of strong 1 smelling
plants. —As I wrote to you last year stating
my impression that my black Currant bushes
had defended the Gooseberries standing next to
them from the fly, I was interested in the inde¬
pendent observation of “ W. S I.” Last year,
however, was not a favourable one here for
judging, as wo were little troubled with the
caterpillar anywhere, possibly from the care we
had taken in the two preceding years to destroy
the eggs. Having, however, arranged to put
black Currants along the centre line of my bed
of Gooseberries I snail be able to test the
matter, and in due time will give the result.
My attention was first drawn to it by noting
that in a large bed of Cabbages those plants
which stood next to a bed of Carrots were much
less infested than others. I hear that rows of
Broad Beans are sometimes grown among seed¬
beds of Cabbage under the belief that they keep
off the Turnip fly. An American friend tells
me that in the United States Tomatoes, which
there grow on bushes, are planted among
Cabbages with the same view. The subject seems
worth attention. Have any of your readers
noticed any like effect from aromatio herbs and
sweet-scented flowers?—W. M. C., Clapton.

Catalogues received.— Wholesale. Price List of
Seeds. Waite, Nash, Huggins, and Co., Southwark Street,

London.- Seed Catalogue. W. B Small, Fleet Street,

Torquay.- Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. J.

Cheal and Sons, Crawley, Sussex.- Descriptive and Priced

Catalogue of Dutch aiul t.'aj* Bulbs, Herbaceous. Greenhouse,

Window Plants, Ac. J. Sylvester, Idle, near Bradford.-

Select Boses. F. and A Dickson and 8ons. Chester-

Retail List of Bulbs and Tuberous-rooted Plants, <fr. Win.

Bull, F.L.8., &e„ 636, King’s Road, Chelsea.- Select

Vegetable and Flower Seeds, <fc. Dickson and Robinson,

01 1 MiUgate, Manchester.- Catalogue of Vegetable,

Flowrr, and Agricultural Seeds Wm. Paul and 8on,
Waltham Cross- Descriptive Catalogue of Flower, Vege¬

table Farm Seeds, Ac. Wm. Cutbush and Son. Highgate.

London.- Wholesale Catalogue of Garden and Agricultural

Seeds. John Jones »n i Co., Oswestry.- Catalogue of

Seed Potatoes. C. Fidler, Reading.- Descriptive Cata¬
logue. Littlo and Lallantyne, Carlisle.- Flower Seed-,

<te. James Backhouse ar.d Son, York.- Spring Cota•

idguk Benjamin Soddy, Walworth Rood, London, 8 F..

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. YL

JANUARY 24, 1885.

No. 307.

QUESTIONS.

Rules for Correspondents. —Au communications
fir insertion should, be clc irly and concisely written on one
isUof the piper only, and a<Ulresscd to the Editor './Garden¬
s'-,37, Southampton Street, Co rent Garden, London. Leltrrs
^ business should be sent to the Publisher. The name and
editress of the sender is required in addition to any designa¬
tes he may desire to be used in the papnr. When more than
m query is sent each shouUl be on a separate piece, of
piper. Answer* should always bear the numhn-plarcd against
the typt replied to, and. our renders will grtJitly oblige us by
tinting, so far as their knowledge awl observations permit,
the co rrtspiondenis who seek assisUin*'*. Conditions, soi ! s,
ivf means vary so infinitely that several answers to the same
1*tstin% may often be very useful, and those who reply would
d. mil to mention the Lxnlitics in which their ex\>erience is
giined. Vorr expo tulmts who refer to articles inserted in
Gardening should mention the number in which they
appeared.

All answers, with the exception of such as cannot well be
(liwi&rd, will be found in the different departments.

series not answered should be repeated.

Naming plants or flruic.— Four plants, fruits, or
fawn only oan be namul at one time, and this only
xhtn goorl specimens are sent. We do not undertake to
nam varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these con only be correctly named
a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
A*y ammuniration respecting plants or fruit sent to
should always accompany the parcel. Correspondents
vko with fruit to be accurately named should send several
specimens of each, shouting the fruit in various stages.

i2562.— Potato for exhibition.— Will any of your
reader* kindly inform me what is the earliest and best
round Potato for exhibition, fit to exhibit in June 7—
No vie*.

12563.— Ficus elastica.—I shall be glad if any of your
readers will state the proper time to take cuttings, manner
of cutting, size, and treatment, and how to deal with tho
old plant in order to prevent bleeding.—F.

12564.— Treatment of Lily.—I havo at present a
few pots of auratum, album, and punctatum plunged in a
cold frame. 1 shall want the frame for other purposes in
March. Would someone kindly describe their treatment
fro m tnen until they are in bloom.—J. L>., Carlow.

12565. -Plants for greenhouse —Will any reader

kind enough to give mo a list of plants suitable for
greenhouse culture without heat 7 Tho greenhouse has a
south-easterly aspect, and gets tho sun from early morning
until one p.in.— T. C., JVs.

12566.— Heating conservatory.— How many cubic
feet of air would a coil of the fallowing dimensions warm
—4 feet high, 3 feet 6 inches long, 12 inches broad, made
of 1J barrel wrought iron 7 My conservator/, having a
tank of water in it, is very cold. Would a gas boiler be
sufficient 7—W. H. Jacob, Makln Vale.

12567— Pomegranate —I have in a pot in mygroen-
Oouse a largo Pomegranate tree, which has never flowered,
though it appears strong and healthy. Will any reader
kindly inform me how and when it should be pruned, and
what should be the general management to make it
flower 7-C. M.

12588— Lavender bushe3.— I havo two very old
Uvender bushes In my garden, and I am not satisfied with
the yearly flowering, as they are somowhat straggling.
Should they be cut down and manured, and, if so, at what
time would it be necessary to cut them to the ground, so
m to start afresh, or is it best to transplant when cut?—
La VENDER.

12560—Sowing Peas—will some reader inform me
in what order and what time to sow the following sorts of
Peas to keep a supply from the 6th of June until late in
the season? I intend sowing nine rows; I may Bay I
•owed one row' of Ringleader on November 18th. The
ether sorts will be one row of William I., two of Champion
of England, two of No Plus Ultra, one of Early Sunrise,
one of Harrison's Early, and one of British Queen—W. N.

12570.— Large Pear trees.— Would any reader of
Gardening tell mo what to do with two very largo winter
Pear trees that seem to bs past bearing? Up to eight or
hn years ago they bore well a sm >11 but very sweet Pear,
'inning about Christinas. They are about ‘25 feet high,
well-shaped, conical trees, but very thick in the branches.
Should it be impossible to bring them again into bearing ?
—Subscriber, Athlcmc .

12571.— Green grub on Gooseberries— I see in
Gardening, January 10th, a letter from “W. S. J., Beech
Lancs,’' on green grub on Gooseberry and Red Currant
trees. Lost year we had fully 300 of the above-mentioned
trees, the fruit of which was absolutely destroyed by the
green grub and fly. What am I to do this season so as to
protect the bushes? I cannot plant a twig of Black
Currant in every bush.— John PntLLir, Fountainbleau ,
by Dundee.

12572 — Greenhouse smoke —I occupy one of a
number of small villas, all of which have a small garden
behind, divided by boundary walls, and with a small
Grass plot (for bleaching or drying clothes) at the end
farthest from the house. My greenhouse is a lean-to,
15 feet by 9 feet, is heated by a Loughborough boiler, is
distant 20 yards from tny house, and rather more from
that of a neighbour, who complains that soot from the flue
falls upon the clothes on his green. " T This I do not cldmit,
as I was troubled with soot oil my areon bt ’enroll h ^Ta
greenhouse, and knew that Ik. w iLK fox', the .ichise
chimneys about, therefore I do not feel incliilvdJto shift

for this neighbour, whohas no sympathy with horticulture,
and whose garden is a wilderness. Can any of your readers
kindly inform me if I am within the law iu this matter, or
can I be made to move my greenhouse 7—Duncan.

12573.—Grub on Onions.—I would be glad if some
of your correspondents would assist me under tho follow¬
ing difficulties. I sowed a bod for Unions last season but
one, and when about as thick as my littlo finger they wero
all eat n by the grub. Aft r tho bed had been dug it was
turned over again f r about 4 inches upon a layer of stable
manure, and then well beaten down with tho spade. Last
season I dug a be 1 Dear the previous one at the beginning
of tho winter, into the half of which I put a very heavy
dressing of gas-lime, and I sowed in spring as before. The
Onions came up well, much thinner where tho gas-lime
was, but still a fair crop. However, every ono went down
with the grub as before. I have now another bed turned
up rough ; and as I don’t like to be beaten I will try Again,
but wou'd be glad for any advice upon the subject.—
H. W., Belfast.

12574.—Chrysanthemums for the open air —I
am anxious to form a useful collection of Chrysanthemums
for growing out-of-doore. I have no hothouse, or green¬
house, nor any other means of rearing them, except a small
set of cold frames, measuring 4 feet by 10 feet. I am
living in a cold and exposed situation in tho Midlands, so
that none but hardy varieties will bo of any use to me.
Can any of your correspondents furnish me with a list of
Chrysanthemums likely to suit me, and when had I better
obtain and plant them out? Subsoil, clay, with about
18 inches of good loam on tho top.— A. Strand, Leicester¬
shire. [Wo trust Mr. Burbidge and other growers will
kindly answer this interesting question. The increase of
the race of line Chrysanthemums that flower just early
enough to escape the first severities of our winter is very
desirable— Ed.]

12575 —Gummy exudation from Camellias.
—Can you be so good as to give me any information as to
the cause of, and as to tho cure for, a gummy exudation
which appears on tho leaves of many of my Camellias. I
have two large plants in a border, where they have grown
freely, and are now 12 feet or more high, but, though the
foliage looks healthy, many of the leaves are disfigured by
the gummy matter upon them. The worse of tho two
plants I had carefully washed over a few weeks ago with
a mixture of the Fir tree oil, but it is now as bad as before.
There is no appearance of blight on these trees, but a small
plant in a pot which I cleaucd myself lately from scale (of
which there was a groat deal) and of which I sponged
every leaf with clean water, had the next day on some of
its upper leaves some fresh spots of this gum. This plant,
notwithstanding the scale, was in a very hcalthy-looking
condition, growing at every point, and the foliage of a fine
deep green. It seems to mo as if there must be something
wrong in tho constitution of the plants, though they are
all growing well.— Borderer.

The following queries are briefly ansurred by
the Editor , but readers arc invited to give further
answer* should they be able to offer additional
advice on the various subjects.

12576—Grapes —Can you tell me the be?t books on
the cultivaiion of Grapes in hothouses?—M. M.

[ Barron's, Thomson's, and Simpson’s are good books on the
subject.— Ed.]

12577— Pot roots Of Dahlias— I should feel greatly
obliged for information as to how pot roots of Dahlias aro
produced.— Enquirer.

[We do not understand p/our question ; kindly explain .—
Ed.]

12578.— Shading? for greenhouse— Would romc
reader kindly describe tho best means of shading a green¬
house, whero there are such plants as Geraniums, Pelar¬
goniums, Fuchsias, Ferns, Ac. 7—J. D., Carlmo.

[The substance called tiffany, spread oh rollers. — Ed.]

12579 —Washing? Grape vines.— Would eomo
reader kindly give me Home practical instructions as to
the best wosh to apply to my vine canes 7—W. II. Y.

[The usual composition is soft soap, sulphur, and Gishurst
compjound. and day, to make it of the consistency/ of mint.
Consult Simpson’s little “ Book on the Vine,” published by
Rout ledge.—E d.]

12580— Holly hedge—I want to plant a hedge of
Holly about 70 yards in length, but I do not want to go to
the expense of bu.vlng rooted plants. How else can 1 pro-
cocd, and whero cau Holly seed be obtained 7—A. Strand,

Leicestershire.

[The seed can be easily obtained; but it would be. best to buy
strong, healthy, young pUmts, which are not very dear. — Ed.]

12581.—Book on propagating shrubs, &c.—
Will some correspondent kindly recommend, for amateur
nurserymen, a good book on propagating shrubs, pre¬
paring scods, &c. ?—F. H.

[Try Baltct's "Art of Grafting but there arc no small
books treating of the subject specially that will help you
much,. You might get London’shook on “ Trees and Shrubs."
—Ed.]

12582.—Formation of lawns.—I should bo greatly
obliged if you could give me the natno of a hook, at a
moderate price, containing information on tho formation
(moro especially draining) of lawns.—J. D. Murray,
Hasti ngs.

[There are various articles in. Gardening on the. subject,
but, so far as we know, there is no easily obtainable book .—

Ed. |

12533.—Peaches against a grreenhouse wall.—

I should bo glad of a few hints on the cultivation of
Peaches against a greenhouse wall. The tree* arc young,

having been planted about two months ago. When should
I prune them, and how far back?—J. D., Carlow.

[You must prune them in February. The question, re¬
quires a rather lengthy article, which we will try to give at
an early date .— Ed.]

12584—American Sweet Potato—I shall feel
obliged if any of your correspondents can inform me how
to cultivate the American Sweet Potato in England. Can it
be grown in this country with any degree of success ?—
Pedagogue.

[Our country is loo cold for the American Sweet Potato,
except under glass, and it would not then be worth doing .—
Ed.]

12585 — Aquilegfia and Myosotis—If I wero to
sow the seeds of Aquilogia chrysant-ha an 1 Myosotis
dissitiflora early this spring would they bloom this year 7
And should the seeds be raised in a cold frame or gentle
hotbed 1— A. M. B., Cheshire.

[The. Myosotis would, ice think; but the right voay in both
cases is to raise the previous year. Thn/ usually flower the
year after they are sown. The seeds may bt easily raised in
a cold frame or in the open air .— Ed ]

12586.— Culture of Azaleas —Having purchased
some Azaleas recently, I wish to ask some of your able
correspondents if they will kindly inform me about their
culture—whether 1 o in take cuttings from them or seed* 7
—Atiios.

[77i« culture of Azaleas has frequently been dealt with in
pxist volumes of Gardening, ami will shortly be referred to
again. They are propagated by grafts, and occasionally by
cuttings.—E d.]

12587.—Bedding?Geraniums and Calceolarias.
—Can anyone inform ma whether cuttings of scarlet
G rani urns and 6hrub Calceolarias taken in March would
be sufficiently early for bedding in May? Would they
flower as early as if taken in the autumn 7 They would bo
kept in a cool greenhouse.—S unflower. lUirohome.

[They would flower, but you could not expect them to be as
good as autumn plants, and, being so late, they would not
make much progress in a cool greenhouse .— Ed.]

12588 — Oladrastls amurensls.— In Gardening of
October 11, 1884, there is a notico of a new ornamental
shrub, Cladrastis amuronsis. 1 have failed to find it
mentioned in the catalogues of somo of the best known
nurserymen. If you oould give me a hint where it is likely
I could procure it 1 should estvem it a favour.— Henry St.
Grover.

[Try John Lee, of Hammersmith. We believe it is in the
French nurseries also .— Ed.]

125S9— Lilium auratum in the open air.— I havo
just bought some imported bulbs of LUium auratum, and,
having little glass, I wish to plant them in the open
borders. Should I put them in now, or wait until tho
spring? Will they bloom this yoar 7—Boz.

[Keep the bulbs in plots of dryish soil for a few weeks, then
plant out in a border of light rich soil, well drained and
deep, and if the border is sheltered all the better. If large
bulbs they will most likely flower this season .— Ed.]

12590— Birds and Crocuses.— Would any of your
readers kindly tell mo the reason of bird® taking up
Crocuses after being planted 7 At tho end of November I
planted a good many; a few weeks after planting tho
crows, or other birds, dug them all up with (apparently)
their boaks, cat about one-half, ana scattered the rest
about tho garden.—J. M , Edinburgh.

[Probably for the same reason that boys get over the fence
for the Plums. Are you sure they were not taktn by four-
footed creatures ?— Ed.]

12591.—Brier seeds.—I appear at fault in saving Brier
seed. I collected the hips when they were ripe, and put
them in a bag, mixed with sand, in tho autumn. In March
I took them out and rubbed the sand and seeds between
my hands. The seeds seemed sound and plump. I sowed
them upon stiffish loam, in soil that the wild Brier grows
very well in about here. I have kept the ground well
hand-weeded, but nothing has come up yet. Is there any
probability of their coining up now?—H. W., Belfast.

[Tht Brier will probably come up.— Ed.]

12592.— Melons for frame.— Will your readers kindly
inform me what sort of Melons would do for frame work
with a hotbed 7 I want good-flavoured ones and nice sorts.
Would Blenheim Orange or Highcross Hybrid do? 1
should also be obliged by receiving instructions as to their
culture.-T. R

[Any well-flavoured green flesh Melon will suit you.
Those you speak of are nr good as any others. Instructions
as to cu'ture can be foutul in Gardening, as we have dealt
with the subject several times.— Ed.]

12593.— Protection from frost — I am desirous of
obtaining a cheap matorial for protecting my w-all fruit
trees from frost and cold winds. Can any of your readers
kindly tell me of such, tho prico per yard, and whero
obtainable 7 —Bilbrook.

[The best protection we know is board or tarpaulin nailed
on a light frame and placed just under the coping and over
the trees through the few dangerous months oj flowering and
setting. Remove it afterwards. There are many other ways,
of which, perhaps, our reader* will inform “ Bill) rook ."—
Ed.]

12594.— Dielytra spectabilis.—I potted a plant of
this In October last, and it has been kept in a window
since then, but up to the present time it has not made any
growth. The soil has l>een kept only just moist. I should
feel greatly obliged for any cultural directions. Two years
ago I succeeded in getting a few flowers only upon a plant,
but the appearance was very poor when compared w ith
w hat it inghVipHl J ^PT"Y Q p |

[The plant is probably at rest, and port have only to Wait.
It is quite hardy, j»nfl floes freely on Ughl and petty soil.
IFc do not care ford t~us a windoirYtant — Ed ]

GARDENING ILL USTRATED

[Jan. 24, 1885.

12595.— Hardy climbers by the seaside.— Can (2£ inches in diameter) and colour are a perfect seeded Giant variety for the late crops, as it
your readers tell me what rapid climbers will grow hardy marve i # But did ever anyone grow such if they bears very freely, and seems better adapted for
coveriny^nes^oither^nnuals'or percuniaK'which wili had their seed from this firm? Again, take late work than the Scarlet Runner. It is best,

grow on unfavourable soil, very near the sea, and in an Messrs. -’s illustrations. They are my where it can be done, to isolate the rows, or at

exposed situation. Whatshould I seloot?—J as. Siikridan, tempters, and, of course, I was induced to order least let them have plenty of space, so that the

"[‘v v'™ Step into the Botanic. Garden, at GUvnevln or » variety of seeds. My blue Primula, for which light may fall fully on them. In no case should
Bill's Bridge yon Will soon set on the walls the things that I paid 5a., never came up at all , and from the there be less than 6 feet of space between the
you can trust. See, also, what does well in other gardens in other flower seeds I purchased at a fabulous rows, and if very tall stakes are used this
your neighbourhood.— Ed.] price I have only very ordinaiy-sized specimens, distance should be increased. We always save

259£. —Disease in English Orchids. —I have found A n( j so it was with the seeds I purchased of two the largest and strongest from the bundles of
subJe^toadlMueorbKcht 0 ^At°fint bla^.^otl^appeu other firms, described and illustrated as beau- Pea-sticks, when they are dressed in winter, for
on the leaves, these gradually spread, and in time the tiful large flowers, but sadly wanting in size the Runner Beaus. These, when placed to the
leaves are entirely destroyed. The root does not, however, and colour when grown. I think it is an unwiao Beans, and their tops trimmed and levelled, are
M^espw^iUl^OphryJ'api^-ra' 1 whlch^I*hav<\ 8 indeed[seen policy for these men so to exaggerate what they about 6 feet high, and with this height of stick
fullering in a wild state in the same way, but to a less have to sell. It only ends m disgust and disap- G feet spaces should be left between the rows,

extent. I should be glad to learn of a cure.—J. Otter, pointment. If they would guarantee their The best way to plant the Beans is to draw

v ... , , seeds to produce what they illustrate in their drills 3 inches deep, the same as for Peas, and

The bulb W tlibc r°wil/Yh mw* up/rL^M^ge "again in catalogues no one would grumble; but neither 6 inches wide, and plant a double row, the in-
spring if everything else is right. —Ed.] they nor anyone else ever saw growing such dividual seeds to be 5 inches apart in the rows.

12597.— Lillum longlflorum.— In October, 18S2, I grand specimens as are depicted in their cata- As soon as the plants have formed the first
b night a bulb of Lilium Yongifloruiu, and potted it at once logues. I don’t want to prejudice others ; I am pair of leaves draw some soil up to tho
ma 4 inch pot in ordinary garden soil and swid. A strong only giving my experience of many years. As stems from each side, and place the sticks
shoot came up, but the plant never flowered ; two strong J ( K. J , t . .. .

stems came up in 18SI, but again there were no flowers, a constant subscriber to your journal for a to them, so that the twining shoots may
The plant was kept in a bay window facing west, had number of years, I write this to warn others, so find supports tho moment they need them,
plenty of air, and slight top-dressings of Clay s fertiliser that they may not be disappointed. As soon as the leading shoots reach the

were given about twice a month I feel very much dis- ' ' „ rr . ^ r -• . _• r „ • .„

appointed at my want of success, and shall be glad to An ENTHUSIAST IN GARDENING. of the sticks pinch the points out to

know in what particular my treatment has been wrong. . strengthen the growth below, and to keep the

—D. [We believe that un^jer special conditions of growth within bounds. In hot, dry weather

1 your bulb was probably not strong enough to flower, and culture flowers such as our correspondent men- the blossoms sometimes dron instead of setting
U 1<>0 “ ,m ; “ very largesize-larger, even, A soaking of water and a few inches of mulch

1259S. -Fuchsias' in pots.-I shall be oblhtcd for than figured in the catalogues. For instance, will correct this, and the latter will be a great
some advice as to dealing with ray Fuchuiaa in pots. They the Zinnia is grown in Austria as well as we support during the summer. This attention,
grew tall and stalky last autumn and have been wintered grow Dahlias, and the flowers are very much especially if tho situation be open and sunny.

out^y^raiXh^ iiuTth.be^ wi “ be » g™“>elp. In dry, porous soils the

1. Ought I to cut them down at once ? And (2) may I i5ut the better way for florists would be to draw mam crop may with advantage be planted in
repot them at tho same time ? If so (3), in what kind of flowers of an average size. Exaggeration, or trenches or hollows, andjthe soil beneath should
80 , 8eom £ req ? lre 8 ,r° 4 ;.'X hcn seeming exaggeration, does harm to the trade be well manured andhtejin up. These stations

““of older “wSTl»™ h! w”L1S?o 5S C ! t8elf reflects on all connected with garden- should be prepared early in spring, so that the
[1. Don’t cut down, but cut in, the sjo ing branches, so as ln g. I he worship of mere, size and showy soil may have time to become adjusted or

THE VILLA GARDEN.

hurdles is important. 2. Are Peas of dwarf growth, A imagine, save tne old roots, which are of a
requiring no staking, to be commended ?— Gano Forward, tuberous nature, and if preserved through the
[l. It is not very plain what is meant by hurdle in this winter and planted the first week in May in a
question. 2 Certainly; there is no reason why you shoultl warm ait* will rrivp n. f PW parlv frathprincra
not grow good Peas without sticks as well as the market Wa !f m 81te W1 “ S lve a lew early gatherings,
gardeners do.— Ed.] perhaps a week or two earlier than plants raised

from seeds would do. But except for this slight
UNANSWERED QUERIES. advantage seeds are much the best—in fact. I

[l. Don’t cut down, but cut in, the spring branches, so as big. The worship of mere size and showy soil may have time to become adjusted or

to ni'ike shajyely plants. 2. Yes. 3. A rich, loamy soil. 4. colour is an unfortunate thing in gardening, partially consolidated. In shallow soils the

v&s ZoSz&izslz It tnSr tren - oh ay t, m do ? n °* an r er i? wel1 - but t

12599-Aconite on turt-Ploa*, ,ay th. be* plan consider them otsmentol 1 ‘pT.’l ^ 8 ° w,n .S 0n tho "urf*™ “ «»? Ordinary Way, and

to follow in our church yard. I am anxious to got the will consider them ornamental. — Ed.J drawing up a ridge of soil on each side, the

ground under Lime trees covered with a good sprinkling of _ benefit of a trench may be secured without

Aconites now comiug intoflower. I shall require busoels reducing the depth of soil available for the

THB VILLA GARDEN. roots. Runner Beans are often used a. a blind,

[The best u'ay is to get soms roots about the time they are (Continued from vaae 589 J and a very excellent and profitable summer

withering off, and dot in the desired positions. The plant J blind they make. They will run up string

abounds in many places, and you would hare no difficulty - «trpfcphed on thp faro of a wall or mav bp mad«

in getting any number you are likely to want. So doubt they n nnnAr -R^arm Stretched on the lace Ol a wall, or may De made

could be transplanted at Other times, but when the stems are runner .Deane. to C0V er an arch spanning a walk. The pods

withering eff they /arm a good guide as to where the roots For use from the end of June or beginning of should be gathered as soon as large enough

^ July until October the Runner Beans arc more for use if allowed to form Seans the

12900—Peas on iron hurdles—1. Poa-rtick. »ith esteemed than the dwarf French species. They strength of the plants is too much re-
me are, as with most folks, not easily got. Iron hurdles are more tender and succulent, and do not so duced for continuous bcanng. If seeds are

or trainers are to bo got but are expensive ; I shall, how- soon become old and tough, and bear more con- required it is better to plant a row for

ever, bo forced to buy some. Can you or any of jour tinuoualv The Scarlet Runners are the nrime the purpose, as the Beeds ripened in the summer
readers say if It is necessary to place these iron trainers on J^OUSiy. ine ocariet runners are tne prime JF F » o.Wlated tn transmit the

both sides of rows of Peas, or would one row in the centre favourites of the cottage gardener. If there is * ime are better calculated to transmit the
suffice, tying them in as they grow with tarred string, or only a few yards of garden, room is found some- strength ana vigour of the plants than are

perham better, with straw ropes? Being a matter of where for a row of these Beans. Few Deonle the late Beans after the plants are becoming

considerable expense, the question of one or two rows of r » • _ ,1 , . . . . . , PTViA-iiAtpd Th a aa-tita T'Armxi'lr amaliAA aIha tn

hurdles is Important. 2. Are Peas of dwarf growth, 1 imagine, save the old roots, which are of a ^ &a , U8te( J* lhe . 8 T remark applies also to

requiring no staking, to be commended ?—Qano Forward, tuberous nature, and if preserved through the the d wart r rench and ail other Deans.

[l. It is not very plain what is meant by hurdle in this winter and planted the first week in May in a Tr

question. 2 Certainly; there is no reason why you shoull Wftrm oif* will mvp a f PW parlv aathprincra VARIETIES.

not grow good Peas without sticks as well as the market Wa T. m Blte W “ l ^ ve a lew early gatherings, q im „ onora ,,

gardeners do. -Ed.] perhaps a week or two earlier than plants raised The old bcarlet Kunner is very generally

from seeds would do. But except for this slight grown. Carters Champion and Girtford Giant
UNANSWERED QUERIES. advantage seeds are much the best—in fact, I are improved varieties, obtained by selection.

12429 Rose cuttings In bottles.— I saw* last spring may say I do not know anyone now who saves The Giant White is as excellent kind for late

toots. A few rows for an early crop, if it P lBnt ing. I grow a running form of the dwarf
good ones, but yet I see no signj of a root, though all are should be necessary to gather very early Runner I rench Bean called rremier a few years ago.
green and fresh. Some hare green mould at the bottom Beans, should be planted on a warm site 3 feet R grew about 5 feet high, and was very pro ■
^Sl bot wv. but L wi !!i not ? moveth ? k UBtilI ,b avc further apart an( i not staked, but pinched in severely, ductive. I have tried to obtain it from several
toui or more month^ag^-ATl^Js Pvnh P “ WCr ° CU W the spaces between the rows are mulched with seed houses since, but cannot succeed. I look

rather long manure the crop will pay for upon it as a desirable Bean to grow, and hope it

it. Sometimes the plants for the early crop arc is not lost. _ E. Hobday.

SHOWY FLORISTS’ CATLOGUKS raised under glass where there is a little artifi-

cial heat, and then hardened off and planted out l‘~369 Tar for woodwork. This should
I am a perfect enthusiast in gardening, and, after all danger of frost is over. A good deal 1)6 obtained from a tar distiller as “ refined
being what is called an idle man—that is, having of the success of this plan will depend upon tar ” or “ tar varnish." Ordinary gas tar con-
no occupation—I spend a great deal of my the care with which it is done. The Beans tains a large quantity of what are technically
leisure in my garden. I have several houses of should be planted thinly in boxes and be placed called “salts,’ 1 which prevents it from being
various kinds, and grow and force all kinds of near the glass, so that the stems of the plants properly absorbed by the wood, so as to keep
things, as well as pay great attention to the when they emerge from the soil may be robust out dam P* In refined tar this has been
vegetable department in my garden. But, and hardy, which growth made in the full light extracted. Its price is about 4d. per gallon,
alas ! although I have a first-rate gardener, I under glass never fails to be. They should be and it is a much superior article to the other,
am yearly doomed to disappointment. The moved to a cool place to harden thoroughly —Laboratory Boy.

great seedsmen of the present day send me before being finally moved to the open air. It 12518.—Manure from fowl-house.—
annually their illustrated catalogues, and from is well to plant in shallow trenches, which will This is a rich and good manure for all classes of
these I have been annually induced to purchase, leave a ridge of soil on each side to form a garden crops. For Cabbages and all the
But ini no oneinstance has my gardener—or any- shelter. This soil, later on, may be drawn Brassica tribe it should bespread thinly over
one else that I have ever heard of—been able about their stems, and the mulching will keep the ground, and be lightly forked in. I have
to produce the large and handsome flowers and all comfortably moist. Tho successional crops used it for most kinds of garden crops ; and
vegetables that we see illustrated in these may be planted about the middle of May (this, found it a good stimulant for fruit trees when
catalogues. in ^ ma i,j cro p mo8 t g ar dens), they are in full bearing condition. I tried it

„ i 'r.tTi i J —"Peas, and again about the first or second week in June, for Apples on light soil, and the trees which

103 T «L«TtlAffV>° r *iA ll t lr ^ ean8 ’r 1 h ave never had any difficulty in carrying the were on the dwarf surface rooting stocks

“T ° June sown crop in a bearing condition till the fce^t&mly bore remarkably fiae fruit. The

pSZSST ILd fr u° 8t cufc3 the,n off80me time in 0ctober < fcakin S manure was applied after the fruits were set.-

Uetumas, and fis, ^dh'-for size the average of seasons), and I like the white- J. DiiC ^"UIAMpJ UN

SHOWY FLORISTS’ CATLOGUES.

Jan. 24, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

693

ROSES. June. The bed in which they are planted is a probably do quite as well. We are planting out

2 boarded bench or table, having only 7 inches or our new houses exclusively with Safrano (deep

TXT TVTVTTL’D 8 inches depth of soil. This, however, will noc fawn colour), except that at each pillar we plant
CULTURE OF TLA KO^LS IN \\ INTER. be enough to carry them through more than alternately a Marrchal Niel (golden yellow) and
We have been surprised this year at getting another season, and it will be necessary to a climbing Agrippina (dark crimson). The
many Tea Roses grown on walls in the open air increase the depth of soil by lowering this .Safrano will be the main crop, as we find it bo
in England in the very middle of the winter, temporary bench to a bed prepared under it. far the most profitable and satisfactory. The
These were forthcoming a few days before We find that the size of the buds is much houses now erecting arc span-roofed, equal on
Christmas, and even still we notice them survi- increased when the Roses are planted in solid each side, and facing east and west. This style
ring on walls. Good as Tea Roses are here when beds. Acting on this know ledge, we are this w'as necessary from the position in which we
grown in pots, their culture in America seems season erecting a structure 40 feet by 100 feet, were compelled to place them, but for choice
remarkable. One sees them there planted out in and have prepared the Rose beds as follows :— we still prefer the half-span style. There is a
span-roofed houses, as vines are here, and allowed We have run a brick wall around the 8-foot- wide general impression that the glass should be
to grow free. They produce quantities of buds beds 20 inches in height, with two rows of stripped from the Rose beds in summer. This,
and flowers which briDg a high price in the “ pigeon-holes ” at the bottom, for the double we believe, is not only useless but injurious. In

A WINTER ROSE.

markets. The following article written sometime
ago by Mr. Peter Henderson, the largest grower
near New York, gives the most improved mode
of Culture :—

Recent experiments on a large scale have
shown that the old system of growing the plants
in pots or tubs is not so goo4 as that of planting
them out on a bench or border prepared specially
for the purpose. Last season, in August, we
planted out a bed 500 feet in length by 8
in width, with large plants that had been forced
in pots the previous season. They were then
covered with mildew, and were a sorry-looking
lot, but by the middle of September the mildew
had entirely disappeared, and we managed to
keep them in vigorous health, entirely clear from
mildew or other disease, until the following

Digitized by GOOSlC

purpose of giving perfect drainage and admitting
air to the roots. The soil used is equal parts
sod, scrapings from a paved street, and well-
rotted cow manure, all thoroughly mixed
together. The bottom of the bed is rounded
slightly from the centre to the sides, so that the
surplus water may pass off freely ; and to prevent
the roots from striking down into the cold sub¬
soil we have cemented the bottom of the bed.
In fact, the manner of preparation of the bed or
border is exactly similar to that for a vinery
border, except that our Rose borders are inside
the house, and elevated 20 inches above the
walks. I have given the composition of the soil
that we are using, and which we know to be
excellent, but where street clearings are not
attainable, two parts sod and one manure will

the vicinity of Boston, where Roses are grown
better perhaps than any other part of the country,
the Rose houses have nearly all fixed roofs,
except certain sashes for ventilation, and the
plants, which in many of them have been growing
for three or four years, are now immense bushes
in the most perfect health. But to keep them in
health, of course, requires work. The plants
must be syringed freely twice a day, and the
paths freely watered, to keep a moist atmo¬
sphere in the house. To modify the sun’s rays
the glasB should be painted with raw oil from
June 1st to September 1st. Oil we find to make
the best shading for this purpose, whitewash
darkening too much. In painting the glass with
oil we use a sponge attached to a stick, and
remove it by sponging it off with boiling water.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

594

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 24, 1885,

The leading varieties grown have been Safrano
and Bon Silene, with lesser quantities of
L&marque, Marechal Niel, and Isabella Sprunt,
as few others are sufficiently prolific flowerers
to justify their being grown for buds in winter.
There has been a want of deep crimson shade,
which I am in hopes the climbing Agrippina
will supply. The form and colouring of the bud
is splendid, but wo have not yet had an oppor¬
tunity of testing its flowering qualities. The
temperature requires to be raised somewhat to
suit the nature of the different sorts; for example,
if Marshal Niel, Bon Silene, Safrano, and climb¬
ing Agrippina are to be grown in the same house,
and there is any difference in the temperature
of one end over the other, we would plant the
first two sorts in the hottest end, as they require
a temperature of 65 degs. at night, while the
other two will do well at CO degs.

Rosea all the year round.— I have
noticed that some of the older varieties of Roses
in cultivation have kept on flowering continu¬
ously the whole winter through, and especially
noticeable have been Gloire de Dijon and the
old pink China. These are great favourites as
wall climbers, and on south aspects they have
been aglow with beautiful blossoms, the over¬
hanging roofs affording shelter and protection.
In the Isle of Wight Gloire de Dijon is a promi¬
nent climber on nearly every house, and its
blossoms have formed striking features in those
pretty gardens that adorn the suburbs of Ryde
and other coast towns. Of the old pink China
Rose I may mention that it is very largely
grown by market gardeners. Although we
cannot hope to rival our American cousins in
the prices which they get for cut flowers, we are
by no means behind them in the eagerness with
which our townspeople buy up any flowers
within their reach, and notably Roses, which
always seem fresh, fragrant, and welcome.
Roses for button-hole and other bouquets and
for vases give a choerful look to even a humble
home. Amongst the best for an amateur desirous
of having an all-the-year-round supply of fra¬
grant buds must be named Gloire de Dijon and
the pink China.— Gosport. —[Madame Falcot is
a glorious wall Rose to stay the winter.—E d.]

The climbing Devoniensis Rose —
Amongst really good Roses with scandent
growth this stands out on account of its luxu¬
riance, and it is only where unlimited space is
given it to cover that it develops its true cha¬
racter. Confined to a small spaee, and conse¬
quently severely pruned to keep it within
bounds, it does not flower freely. When hard
pruned the whole business of the plant appears
to be retaliation for the treatment which it has
to endure. The more it is pruned the more it
will grow Into long, thick, fleshy wood, from
which it is useless to expect many flowers. So
far as my observation goes we must go to
Devonshire to see this Rose in its true character.
One notable example of it I can remember seeing
at Dawlish, where it was covering a large space
on the wall of a villa residence. Thore it grew
in the most luxuriant manner possible, enjoying
a happy freedom of growth that is not often
allowed it, but which it evidently ought to
receive. This plant was producing a fine display
of flowers, ana was in the most perfect health.
One glance was sufficient to convince anyone
that, to cultivate it successfully and secure
a fair proportion of flowers according to the
space covered, it must be planted in a good
soil in a warm and sheltered position, and be
allowed to grow in a free and easy manner, with
onlv the strongest branches nailed to the wall,
and the others allowed to grow in their own
way. Then they will produce Roses in abun¬
dance. I have tried to cultivate this Rose
under glass in a house that is not heated and
where there is plenty of space ; but its rampant
rowth necessitated such severe pruning that
ut comparatively few flowers were obtained from
the space occupied by it. The size of the flower
and the exquisite fragrance that belongs to the
old variety are also present in this climbing one.
Some five years ago I saw in a garden at Exeter
a grand example of the old Devoniensis Rose.
It had been planted against the outside wall of
a greenhouse, and, having put forth a shoot
stronger than the rest, it was taken under the
wall plate and trained inside tho house, where
it throve in the most satisfactory manner, and
in three or four years had covered several yards

Digitized by C^OOglC

of space on the wall. When I saw it it was
in perfect health, and had during that year
produced more than 200 flowers, and this just
from simply affording it space and a few shreds
and nails. The roots being outside, were able
to take care of themselves.—C.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.
Indoor Plants.

Ferns. —These should be potted a short time
before they commence growing, for if their roots
are subjected to the disturbance unavoidable in
repotting after growth has commenced, the first
fronds produced will be deformed. The habit
of the species has much to do with the pot room
required. Tree Ferns, strong and vigorous in
character, have often more root room given them
than they require, the result being that the
fronds become too largo for the houses in which
they are located. When overgrown, too, they
never look well, and often injure smaller sorts
that have to be accommodated under them. No
plants can be kept so long in a healthy state
with limited root space as Tree Ferns, which
will continue to thrive and look well, even when
their roots have so filled the pots or tubs that
there literally seems scarcely any soil remaining.
They should, however, when under such con¬
ditions be regularly supplied with manure-
water during their season of growth. Those
that are of a spreading habit will be injured
unless they have sufficient space for their creep¬
ing rhizomes to extend. Ferns planted out in
beds on imitation rockwork should not have
more root room than is sufficient to support
them in a healthy state. If care is taken in
preparing the places where each is to be planted,
it is an easy matter to confine the root space.
They are not so particular as to soil as many
plants, and most of them succeed in either peat
or loam. As a rule, however, they make the
best growth in peat, but those intended to be
grown for cutting, such as Adianthums of the
cuneatum section, and the different kinds of
Pteris that are adapted for this work, are best
in loam, as in that the fronds usually stand
better in a cut state. In any case the soil must
be kept open by the addition of broken crocks
or coal cinders, the latter being quite as good
as the former. Before being potted Ferns
should be thoroughly cleaned from insects,
such as scale or mealy bug, as the mature
growth will bear a stronger dressing with
insecticide than could be used later on when the
young fronds have made their appearance. If
thrips have been numerous, dip the fronds in
strong Tobacco water or syringe them with it;
even if none of the living insects are present, it
is very likely that there are eggs ready to
come to life when increase of heat is given.

Palms. —Unless the temperature is kept so
low as to check all growth, Palms that require
a warm house to grow in are rarely quite at rest
even in the winter season. When too much root
space is allowed, however, the strongest growers
in particular over-shade everything near them.
Palms will succeed in almost any kind of soil;
but heavy loam, almost approaching the con¬
sistency of clay, is the material which they like
best. They are very useful in all cases where
green foliage is required, and as they have all
the elegance of Ferns, and their leaves are stout
in texture, they occupy a position that could
not well be filled by any other plants.

Flower Garden.

Spring flowers.— Of these, Hyacinths and
Tulips are mo3t liable to injury from frost, and
the neatest of all protections for them is Cocoa-
nut fibre refuse. Where, however, the bulbs
are planted in a groundwork of Sedum or Saxi¬
frage, this protection cannot be employed, and
a covering of Yew or Laurel boughs must be
used. When the ground is wet the slightest
frost will be sufficient to raise, or rather to
loosen, autumnal-planted spring flowers; there¬
fore their well-doing will be best assured by
making firm the soil about them after each
recurrence of frost. Over our reserve stock of
such plants and of dwarf hardy summer bedders
planted on warm borders in the kitchen garden
we run a light roller as Boon as the state of the
ground after the frost will permit, an operation
that seems to be doubly beneficial, as it firms the
plants, and apparently conduces to their more
rapid lateral extension.

Herbaceous plants. —Though many of these
may with safety be transplanted at almost any
season, it is but reasonable to suppose that they
will do better if moved before growth has
become too active, and it is important that their
roots should get well established in the fresh
soil before dry weather checks root action. In¬
tending planters should only select kinds of real
merit. Tastes vary as to arrangement, some
preferring to place single plants in straight
lines, the tallest at the back of the bed or
border, and the smallest in front, and for a
formal border this plan has some merit; I, how¬
ever, prefer planting them in groups or clumps
of moderate size, say three plants in a group of
Pyrethrum uliginosum, double Sunflower, and
similar growers, five or seven plants of Spircea
Aruncus and Anemone japonica, and in still
larger numbers of the dwarfer growing kinds.
I would then advise the filling-in of every vacant
space possible with surface-rooting plants, and
particularly round those varieties that are least
furnished with foliage. The effect of the general
arrangement is greatly added to by the carpet
thus formed.

Fruit.

The somewhat mild weather will tell un¬
favourably upon all kinds of fruit trees, par¬
ticularly the easily excited Peach and Cherry
against walls, and Currants and Gooseberries
upon open quarters ; and under these circum¬
stances steps should be taken to keep every¬
thing as backward as possible, as well as to
have protecting material of various kinds ready
for use when the proper time arrives. Peaches
and Nectarines are, of course, unnailed, pruned,
and securely supported by means of stakes and
ties some distance away from the walls, and in
this position they must remain until the rapid
swelling of the buds press on the annual tying
or nailing in. In the absence of frost a little
extra care in washing the walls and trees
of all kind? to free them from the larva} of
insects will be well repaid. For stone fruit
trees, after they are nailed in, a barrel of soap¬
suds from the laundry, with two or three pounds
of sulphur and a like quantity of soft soap
added, will make an inexpensive wash, which
may be applied freely without fear of injury.

Gooseberries. —The sooner these are pruned
the better, os the crowded state of the trees in¬
duces early growth, and pruning checks it. An
idea prevails that birds are not so likely to
spoil an unpruned tree ; but it matters little
whether the tree is pruned or unpruned if a pair
of bullfinches find their way into it. The safest
and best way is to prune and dress with a
mixture of soot and lime reduced to the con¬
sistency of cream, and passed through a fine
sieve to admit of its being taken up and dis¬
charged by a By ringe. Trees in orchards should be
thinned out and divested of the Moss that may
have gathered on the stems and branches.
When this has been done, wash with the compo¬
sition recommended for Gooseberries, and top-
dress the roots with fresh soil, road scrapings,
or rotten manure. Select clean ripe shoots
from healthy trees and grafts, and lay them in
under a north wall to be ready for use in March
or April. For large standards which have been
headed back, two-year-old shoots are generally
used by experts in Kent, and are usually success¬
ful.

Vegetables.

When the surface of the soil is dry enough go
over such crops as Spinach, Onions, Lettuce, Jcc.,
with the Dutch hoe. All vacant plots of land
should be at once trenched or dug. Sow early
Peas in warm sheltered positions. The dwarf
Fan or Cluster Bean is a good companion for
the Gem Pea; it is very prolific, and occupies
little space. A few early Potatoes may also be
planted in a warm position, but unless the
means are at hand for protecting them when
they come up, the chances of success are remote.
Where an autumn supply of Brussels Sprouts ia
required, a box or two should now be sown
under glass. Plant out from the seed bed
autumn-sown Cabbages to succeed those planted
last September. Stir the soil with a fork
between the rows of early Cabbages, and after¬
wards earth them up. A dry day should bo
selected for the operation.

A small sowing of Celery, in pans or boxes
in heat, for flavouring purposes may now bo
made. When the weather is suitable, and the
ground in good working condition, a portion of

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

NOTES ON SOME BORDER FLOWERS.

Senecio pulcher. —In a recent number, Mr
Sweet wants to know how “the gentleman
from Gloucestershire ” got on with Senecio
pulcher this last year ; if you will permit me, I
will give my recent experience. After blooming
well in 188.3 it completely died away, and last
spring came up weakly, in three or four heads,
which remained in statu quo all the summer,
not deigning to give a dower, and merely making
a few long leaves. I recently dug it up, and found
a splendid lot of fleshy roots, so if it did nothing
above ground it worked well underneath; the
flowering stem had died down about an inch or
two below ground, and from this point four or
more strong crowns had pushed, which I have little
doubt will flower next summer. This seems to
point to the conclusion that it takes two seasons
to mature a shoot to flower. Possibly when the
plant gets into a clump (which it will not be long
m doing, for I found lots of little plants like
offsets amongst the roots) some shoots will mature
every year and so bloom. I think we are apt
to express our opinions on the small plants of
this and other things sent out from nurseries
before we give them time enough to see what
they can do. Will Mr. John Wood, of Kirk-
stall, tell ub his experience of it ? He
ought to know.

Gaillardia grandiflora.—As I
am writing I may say that my clump
of Gaillardia grandiflora did not even
die down last winter, it was so mild,
but began to blossom in May, and did
so incessantly till cut down by a frost
in December. It certainly was the gem
of my garden, and came in for more
admiration than anything else.

Astrantia major is a plant which
should be more grown than it is. It
belongs to the Umbelliferous order
(Carrot tribe), but is utterly unlike any
other member of the family. Its chief
value is for cutting purposes. It
prefers shade, but is not particular
as to soil, &c. [It is distinct, but there
its meritB stop for gardening generally.
Planted in a very rich border, we
found it a most rampant weed, though
in cold soils it is a slow grower. —Ed.]

Harpalium rigidum is another plant
which gets a great deal of notice. It
is closely allied to the Jerusalem Arti-
choke, but its great drawback is that
jV&Lft it throws out long roots all over the
place, at the end of which a tuber
forms, which becomes a plant next
season. I put a stop to this travelling
about by waiting until spring, when
the shoots begin to show above ground,
and then taking them up with a hand-
* fork an< * replanting in a clump. You
cannot hurt them by the movement.
Helianthus doronicoides is the fac
simile of Harpalium, but does not have
tubers, or run about so much. It has
not quite such a fine colour or flower.
Stenactis (Erigeron) speciosa is another
of my gems—a pale mauve Daisy-shaped flower,
often mentioned in your paper; and another of my
fine plants, seldom seen, is Inula glandulosa— a
great favourite. It has long downy leaves, and
great yellow flowers, 4 and 5 inches across, and
the whole plant is only a foot high. This will
grow in a moderately shady place.

The prettiest Campanula I grow is C.
Hostii, a splendid hybrid, about 2 feet high,
and a mass of bloom in summer. The leaves
are very small, like those of carpatica, and it
soon makes a clump. C. turbinata is a good
one for rock work or front of border. The
flowers are as large as a Canterbury Bell, and
only 3 or 4 inches high. The old-fashioned
Mouarda didyma comes in for a great deal of
notice ; it grows well in any dry soil. So does
Helenium pumilum, which is nearly always in
bloom, and fine for a bouquet.

Ciibiranthus alpinus (Alpine Wallflower )
is a fine sight in spring. In a mass its sulphur-
coloured flowers are very telling, but I cannot
recommend it as perennial ; sometimes it
lives throughout the winter, and sometimes it
does not. I therefore keep up a stock of
cuttings. Damp seems to be its enemy. If you
want something for a startling effect, though
the flowers of neither are very long-lived, grow
; a great patch of Papaver grondiflorum or Luium
i davuricum and its varieties. The latter, only

the autumn-sown Onions should be transplanted.
Select for them a piece of land that was
manured and deeply dug in the autumn or early
winter; wheel on a good dressing of charcoal
dust or charred refuse, spread it evenly over
the surface, and rake or fork it in. Soot also
may at all times be beneficially applied. Make
the ground tolerably firm, and put in the plants,
not too deeply, 1 foot row from row, and 4
inches apart in the rows. Take up the remainder
of the crop of Jerusalem Artichokes and select
the beat for use. Early Horn Carrots may be
sown, but in cold positions it will, for very
early crops, be better to cut a wide trench,
and fill it with warm manure ; cover it with
5 inches or 6 inches of light soil, and protect
it with glass or outer covering. Sow a few
Wood's Frame and French Breakfast Radishes,
and Bee that they are protected.

PALESTINE ANEMONES.

In the winter, long before our own Anemones
have shown themselves, the fields of Palestine
are bright with these and other flowers. The
kind that is said to be most abundant is our com¬
mon garden Anemone, of which we give a little
cut from a drawing made in the land. It does
not look so fat and strong as our own plants—
no doubt because of the poorer soil and the com¬
petition of many rivals. This is a brave and
Bhowy flower in many an English garden, but
somehow fails to succeed and dies out in others.
It is best on sandy soil and is admirable
in chalky soil; it may also be seen on clay
in the Wealds of Sussex. But even where it
has a tendency to die out it is easily raised
from seed, and is now grown in fine showy
varieties both double and single—indeed, plants
raised from seed arc always more vigorous and
flower more freely than others. A succession of
flowers may thus be obtained throughout the
year, even in depth of winter, in mild districts.

Sowing seeds dry. —Your correspondent,
“P. N.,” who recommends sowing in dry soil,
opens up a theory at variance with the usual
directions of gardeners on this subject. He
declines to discuss the physiological reasons for
hia theory ; but those are just what readers of
Gardening would delight to hear. Everyone
who can should certainly lay bare the
principles on which his practice rests,
since only in this way can sound
horticultural knowledge be advanced ;
and it is, I believe, one main cause of
the popularity of Gardening Illus¬
trated that its articles are written by
those who are all at work themselves
in solving the problems of horticulture.
Consequently, there is just that mixture
of theory and practice in its pages
which is most helpful. But to turn to
the practical side of this matter. It
is generally recommended to soak the
pan of earth in which you are about
to sow choice seeds thoroughly with
water before sowing. Then when the
water has drained off, the seed is
scattered on the moist, but not wet,
surface, and slightly covered with a
sprinkling of fine dry soil. The
rationale of this method is that the
moisture evaporating from the earth
below affords sufficient dampness to
the seeds without the necessity of water¬
ing at all for a long time. If “ P. N.”
can show that his plan of sowing in dry
soil, and watering after a few days, is
better, I am willing to be taught. It
occurs to me as one objection that many
soils, especially peat and leaf-mould,
may become so dry as absolutely to
resist Water. A mere watering from
the top does not penetrate such soil.

It has to be soaked again and again to
overcome its dryness, and this would
not be conducive to the prosperity of
the seeds if sown previously to water¬
ing. While on this subject I may
mention that absolute darkness is the
natural condition under which seeds
vegetate. Therefore, all seed pans should be
covered with a slate, or something similar, to
exclude light, and regulate the moisture.—
Lincolnshire Rector.

Birds and seeds.— I have always found
that long manure, put between the rows of young
Peas and similar crops, invariably protects them
from the depredations of birds. I take it that
birds and mice eat Peas, &c., to satisfy hunger,
and have come to the conclusion that if the cus¬
tomary “ red herring,” in the shape of some¬
thing good to eat from a bird-and-mouse point
of view, is carefully trailed across the scent,
it will moBt assuredly divert the hunt. My
Peas, &c„ are always intact, although my neigh¬
bours suffer invariably if they omit to do as I
do, and I cannot help thinking that this
principle could be applied to other crops, fruit
included ; blackbirds, thrushes, and starlings,
however, are not to be kept from fruit by this
means.— J. Pratt.

12502.—Mowing machine.— -From my own experi¬
ence, but more from numerous enquiries I have made from
time to time (I having been particularly interested in the
question), I believe Green’s to bo the best lawn mower.—

- For simplicity, ease, cheapness, and satisfaction,

try " Improved Philadelphia Lawn Mower.”—T.

- There is, in my opinion, no butter mowing machine

than the Archimedean.—D.

Helleborus niger maximus. — The
beauty of this large Hellebore is only now begin-

m

The Anemone of Palestine.

ning to be generally recognised aud appreciated
at its true value. Than this no more serviceable
plant could be had in flower at Christmas, it
being useful and beautiful alike in the church,
the ball-room, or in the boudoir. In order,
however, to have it in perfection at this season,
it must be lifted from the open border and
placed under glass. On a plant so treated and
taken up with others in the latter part of
November, I had thirty-seven fine blooms all
open at one and the same time. The largest
plants, which were lifted carefully with forks,
were then put in 18-inch well-drained pans, and
placed in a cold vinery where they were watered
overhead every day. When flowering was nearly
over, being desirous of increasing my Btock, I
took the plants to a tank of water and washed
all the soil clean away from the roots ; they
were then easily divided into separate pieces,
each piece having capital roots with one large
leaf attached. The border in which they were
to grow, a moist cool one, was well manured and
deeply dug, and after the planting was com¬
pleted some sand was placed around each
division ; they were then finished off with a
mulching of rotten manure. Plants so treated
still continue to open the buds left on them
regardless alike of relifting and of the dismem¬
berment to which they have been subjected.
—W. A.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Digitized by

696

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 24, 1885.

H foot to 2 feet high, are gorgeous in a mass,
and, what is better, they are not at all
particular as to treatment.

I thought that, perhaps, the above notes of
things which do well with me might be useful
to^ others. Now for a few things I have failed
with. First, Delphinium nudicaule—blossoms
and disappears, and is seen no more. I should
be glad if someone who does grow this well
would tell us its requirements. Possibly snails
have something to do with my failure. I lose any
quantity of other Delphiniums from this cause.
Other plants which I cannot keep in conse¬
quence of slugs feeding on them, are Iris oris*
tata, Funkias of all sorts, and Aster alpinus.
The last I lose in the autumn. They do not
trouble it in summer. I am not at all Bure that
birds do not help in the case of the Funkias—I
know they peck off the young shoots of Phlox.
Plumbago Larpenta' (syn. Valoradia) grows very
strongly, but 1 never can get a bloom ; a few
buds show occasionally, but the frost cuts the
plant down before they can open. Phlox verna
never makes any growth or flowers with me,
though other dwarf Phlox do both. Litho-
spermum prostratum makes no growth out-of-
doors, but grows freely enough in a pot. Hints
on any of these, from anyone who grows them
well, would be appreciated.

I forgot to mention that a new plant I had
last year, Veronica longifolia subsessilis, is
very fine. It appears to be a most accommo¬
dating plant, blooms very freely, and has a
flower spike like the shrubby species, and habit
of the herbaceous kind. I think it will turn
out to be one of the finest of our perennials.
Campdcn. J. R. Neve.

REPLIES.

12483. — Layering Carnations. — After
the flowering-stem of a Carnation runs up to
flower, a number of leafy growths form round the
base of it, which the fanciers term “grass,” or
layers, after they have been notehed and pegged
down. Some fine sandy soil has to be placed
round the base of the plants in which to peg the
layers. A notch is made in the hard stem of
the layer by cutting upwards in a slanting direc¬
tion through the joint in the stem. The layer
and peg with which it is held are pressed firmly
into the fine sandy soil together.—J. Douglas.

- Carnation layers are the Grass or non¬
flowering stems around the plant, which, instead
of being cut off and put in to strike as
“pipings,” are allowed to remain attached to
the parent plant; but in the month of July a
slit is made with a sharp knife between the
second or third joint of the stem, and the open
end of the slit part is gently stuck downwards
into a mixture of fine soil and sand (placed
below on purpose) and kept firm by a hooked
peg. The part operated on should be covered
with the soil and sand mixture and watered with
a fine rose in dry weather. The layers should
be well rooted and ready for removing from the
old plant by the end of October.—J. L.

- If “ Novice ” will refer to p. 275,

Vol. I., of this Journal he will find a full ac¬
count of the process and an excellent cut
illustrating it. Should he not have that, I
may say that the thing is done by cutting half
through at a joint a present year's shoot, about
August, and then splitting up to the next joint,
inserting a chip of stone to keep split open ; and,
bringing the shoot down to the ground, the cut
part is buried in the soil and pegged down.
When well rooted they are severed from the
plant, and put out separately.—C. H. S.

-- “Layering” is a gardening term de¬
signating a mode by which Carnations are pro¬
pagated. It is done thus :—A strong suitable
side- shoot is selected that can be readily brought
down to the ground without breaking it. The
lower leaves are removed from the shoot,
leaving those on the three upper joints intact.
The shoot should be cut half-way through just
below the third or fourth joint, and the knife
should then be turned upwards along the middle
of the shoot for about half an inch from where
it was inserted. This operation forms what is
called a tongue, the greater portion of which
above the joint should be removed, but the
whole of the joint left, as from that joint the
roots will proceed. The shoot should then be

E laced on the soil so that the divided joint can
e well covered with rich soil, and kept firmly

fixed by a hooked Hazel or Verbena peg. The
end of July and beginning of August is the best
time, and in about six weeks the layer may be
cut from the parent as a young plant.—J. P.,

Lancashire.

- Carnations are said to be layered when

the shoots are bent down into the soil for
the purpose of causing them to put forth roots.
It is an easier and surer method of propagating
them than by means of cuttings. Layering is
performed as soon as the plants have done
blooming. The lower leaves are stripped off and
the upper onea shortened to two-thirds of their
length. An oblique cut upwards is then made
with a sharp knife half through a joint, and the
shoot is pressed down into prepared light soil so
that the cut opens, the separate portions coming
into contact with the soil. Fix in place with a
peg, and water in hot weather. By early autumn
they will be ready to take off.—J. C. B.

12478.—Violets in autumn and winter.
—“I. S. J., Ripley,” is unfortunate. His treat¬
ment of his Violets appears on the surface to
have been correct. He attended to their wants
in summer, keeping them well watered, and
ministering to their general welfare to the best
of his abilities, and now they prove ungrateful
for all this kindness and won’t bloom. They
even look yellow instead of green, as all respec¬
table Violets at this season of the year should
loek. Very naturally “ I. S. J.” wants to know
the reason why. What is the use of having
Violets if a fellow is to take all this trouble,
providing them with comfortable and eligible
winter quarters, carefully closing and opening
the frames day and night, and, after all, walk
about with a coat destitute of its well earned
button-hole ? Alas ! I fear that this is one of
those mysteries which no fellow can understand.
I can only meekly suggest that perhaps these
large and healthy but intractable clumps are too
old—yea, aged, effete, worn out 1 If true
wisdom is to fulfil one’s destiny and do one’s
proper work on this poor earth, then wisdom in
the case of Violets does not come with age, I
regret to say. Aged Violet plants, with gnarled,
rams’-horny stumps, should, with all due
reverence and tenderness, be consigned to the
rubbish h9ap; they have done their work
and must make room for their progeny, com¬
monly called “runners.” Perhaps last spring
“I. S. J.” made the mistake, like so many
others, of keeping his old plants and destroying
the young hopefuls—if so, “ Hinc ilia lack -
rymee .” Let me advise all who wish to have
Violets in winter to root as many cuttings as
possible early in the spring. You can put them
in thick in a frame in sandy rich* soil in Feb¬
ruary, March, April, or as soon as you can fit
them, the earlier the better. Don’t be fright¬
ened if they look small ; they will soon grow
with proper attention. As soon as rooted, plant
them out in well-prepared beds with some good
old manure for them to feed on. Set them
S inches apart for the Neapolitan family, and
1 foot apart for the stronger growers. Keep
them growing all the summer, and by August
you ought to have clamps C inches across,
studded thickly with leaves and clustering buds.
If your buds are not there by September they
never will be there until spring, so you need not
expect it. Put them down as coy, capricious,
ungrateful creatures, and refuse them frame
room, for they will never pay for it. Now I
don’t suppose that Violets will romp about and
enjoy themselves everywhere a9 they do with
me ; but I do think that with judicious treat¬
ment there are few places in England where a
fair show of winter flowers may not be obtained.
—R. W. Beachey, Kmgshcr swell, Devonshire.

12527. — Hardy bright - flowered
Creepers. —If “Pensee” can Btretch tanned
twine garden netting in front of the wall, keeping
it about an inch from the surface, climbing N *s-
turtiums would take hold of it and successfully
resist the wind. 0 ther bright annuals which might
be tried this way, if the position is fairly sunny,
are Canary Creeper, yellow. Sweet Peas, various,
and Major Convolvulus. More vigorous climbers
are the following perennials: Calystegia sepium
grandifiorum, which grows from 20 ft. to 30 ft.
in a season, and bears a profusion of white
flowers greatly resembling the white garden
Lily, but only lasting one day each; C. pubesoens
flore-pleno, the double Convolvulus, growing
about 10 ft., and producing pink flowers re¬
sembling a small Rose ; Lathyrus latifolius, pink

iqitize

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everlasting Pea and its white variety ; Clematis .
Jackmanni, deep purple flowers on the new
growth every year ; and Tropaeolum tuberosum,
scarlet, and yellow perennial Nasturtium, if the jjsC
position be warm ; while on a cold spot, in sandy .71
soil, T. speciosum, with bright scarlet flowers,
would do best. After all, Ampelop9is Veitchi p •
is, in my opinion, one of the handsomest 5 *i
coverings for a wall that can be had, and no ^ I
netting would be necessary, as it adheres in a yj I
most remarkable manner to the smoothest sur- 3 i I
face, and when once established grows nearly as ? i
rapidly as the common kind. In a sunny posi- j ,
tion its autumn tints are glowing in the extreme. |
Any ordinary soil suits it.—T. J. Weaver, i
Crouch Hill , N.

12485.—Hyaclnthus candicans.—This it i
useful bulb may be employed with good effect rt <
either as a pot plant or for clumps or masses in j 1
the outdoor garden. As a pot plant its season : : n
of flowering may be hastened or retarded . $1
through at least six months of the year. Out- a
of-doors it flowers in July or August, and I find k
it quite hardy and safe if left in soil such as de- t u,
scribed by “ A Subscriber.” Its tall spikes of
bloom are most effective in the wild garden, and - «
for cutting for indoor decoration they are very - «

S aceful. In fine summers like the last this
yacinth ripens its seed in the south of Eng-
land.—J. G. H.

- They may be potted and treated as the i b

common Hyacinth, or planted out-of-doors now, i -
and treated as spring bulbs, in a moderately rich
dry soil. I have left mine in the open this
winter, and intend to leave them. They might
be protected with a slight mulching of short
manure, but they are fairly hardy. I took up
some Dahlia roots (close by my Hyacinthus
candicans) this week, which had not been in any
way protected, and they were in first-rate con¬
dition.—J. P., Lancashire .

-This may be planted at any time from October to

the end of March, a9 it is quite hardy. Prepare the soil
thoroughly by deep digging before planting. When the
stems and leaves die down clear the rubbish away, and
leave the bulbs in the ground.—J. C. C.

-The bulbs of this plantought to be put out into the

open ground in autumn. They may safely be left in the
open ground during winter. They continue to flower year
after year without any trouble.—J. D E.

- I planted bulbs in February two years ago lost

summer 6 inches deep, covered w ith Cocoa-fibre refuse all
over (it keeps insects from the bulbs). They flowered q
beautifully each year, and every week I gave them liquid
manure till September. I Intend in October, when they
die down, to take up the clumps and divide, as I am told
they do better when so treated every third year. I have
three roots in each clump now, having only planted one
root in the beginning.—E. G. F.

12516.—Exhibition Dahlias —Six of the best show
varieties aro—Mrs. Gladstone, pale pink; Chris. Ridley,
crimson ; George Rawlings, dark maroon ; Mrs. Henshaw,
white ; Ovid, puce ; and Goldfinder, yollow.—J. D. E.

12482.—Sweet William seedlings.— 1 Thsse ought
to be planted whero they are to flower in autumn, so that
they form largo established plants before winter. The
reason that many hardy plants die during winter is that
they are planted too late and do not become well established
before the severe frosts touch thorn.—J. D. E.

— Sweet Williams should bo transplanted to where
they are to flower in mild weather, towards the end of
February.—J. C. C.

These ought if raised last spring t) have been put
out in the places where they are to flower in the autumn,
but if done at once they will probably do very well.—

C. H. S.

12547. — Blight on Honeysuckles. — I think
“ Q Q’s- ” blight is aphis, as I had a plant suffering in like
manner last summer. A frequent use of the syringe and
clean cold water will do much to keep the pest under. A
solution of soap-suds from soft-soap is also good. When
my plant* were more shaded than they are they never
suffered in this way.—T. J. W.

12548. — Is Hyaclnthus candicans sweet -
scented?—If It is It must be imperceptible to any but
the most delicate nostrils, and, therefore, practically is not
a scented flower. A florist who grows it and sells thousands
of bulbs in the season, told me he considered its want of
scent was ono of its greatest deficiencies, so it is evident that
he could not detect any.—T. J. W.

12493 —Flowers near vinery.—Plant Cotoneastcr
microphylla and train against the wall. Corchorus japonic*
will also flower in a north aspect and will bear severe
pruning. Utilise the lime rubbish with big stones and
plant Ferns in front in natural-looking clumps.—C ori-

8AM OK.

12496.—Primula japonlca.—The seed of Primula
japonica is very uncertain in coming up, but yon are
advised to empty out the old soil from your boxes and bow
again, keeping the boxes in a cold frame until the plants
have four leaves. We find that the simplest way of raising
seedlings of this plant is to put out a strong plant in a
shady border, and let it distribute its seed In its own way.

By leaving the soil undisturbed we got any number of
plants the following year.— J. C. C.

12546.—Campanulas —“ Mrs. L." will find Cam-

K nulanrticifolia and C. U. alba in Mr. W ire’s Catalogue,
de Farm Nurseries, Tottenham. They appear to be
(•ingle varieties, but it is likely the double variety could
be obtamed also.—T.J.djY.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jan. ‘24, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

597

TREES AND SHRUBS.

AUCUBAS, MALE AND FEMALE.

EVERGREEN BARBERRIES.

Though there are upwards of half a hundred
Barberries in cultivation, only about a dozen
among them are what may be termed really
handsome shrubs, and although they ditlcr
widely in some respects, many of them possess
a striking resemblance to each other. The
genus is divided into two sections, the Berber is
. roper and the Mahonia. Among the true
barberries a few are really beautiful shrubs.
The finest, no doubt, is B. Darwinii, which
was first discovered by the late Mr. Darwin in
Chili, and than which no more beautiful hardy
»hrub exists. This Bpecies is now too well
known to need description. Being a native of
Chili, it will not stand any great degree of cold,
md it is all the better for a mild spring. The
upper figure in our illustration represents
B. Darwrcnii. Next to Darwin’s Barberry in
point of beauty is B. stenophylla. a garden
nj-brid between B. Darwinii and B. empetri-
folia. The long slender branches of this Bir-
harry droop gracefully on all aides, making the
Ixub, when profusely laden with blossoms, look
like a fountain of molten gold. It is, moreover,
s shrub that is not at all fastidious as to position,
for it grows in shade as well as exposed, but it
flowers most freely when in a good light soil in
s warm, sunny situation. It is much hardier
than B. Darwinii, and seldom sutlers from
severe frosts.

B. empetrifolia, though a fine shrub, is not
equal to either of the preceding in point of floral
beauty, but its habit of growth is elegant and
it is very hardy. B. dulcis and huxifotia need
only be grown where a variety of Barberries is
required. A very handsome shrub ia B. Walli-
chi&na, which has glossy evergreen foliage, with
which the clear yellow flowers finely contrast.
Though a native of the Himalayas, it is hardy,
but is liable to be injured by very severe frost.
It is, however, one that ia well worthy of general
culture, and thrives well in ordinary soil and
in any position.

Of the Mahonia section, one of the commonest
and the most valuable is B. Aquifolium, than
which there are few better shrubs either for a
shrubbery or for forming denso undergrowth
in perpetual shade. It is very accommodating,
for it thrives almost anywhere. B. fascicularis
ii much in the same way, but showier when in
bloom, the clusters of yellow blossoms being
more numerous. B. japonica, also called liealii,
is a very handsome-leaved shrub, though rather
too tender for our climate generally. It should,
however, be given a place in a shrubbery, aa it
is so distinct from any other, except B. nepa
lenais, which is in the same way, but of much
larger growth and leas
hardy. B. Sieboldii is also
similar to the last two
kinds, and, like them, is
handsome in foliage. B.
nepalensis is particularly
desirable for planting
against a sheltered wall on
account of the huge clusters
of yellow blossoms which
it produces in spring
amidst the fine bold
foliage.

The Evergreen Barber¬
ries may be grown in any

K ition, but they thrive
t in half shadow' and
sheltered spots. They like
a sandy and light soil best,
and the less hardy kinds,
each as Darwinii and ja¬
ponica, prefer the warmest

8 laces in the garden. All
arberries are very difficult
to transplant when largo,
therefore the young plants should be planted
in the spot they are intended to occupy perma¬
nently. YV,

Aucuba berries. —These are larger than
those of the common Holly, and give this useful
Evergreen a gay appearance. It should be
planted in mixed shrubberies, or in beds in the
American garden. In order to secure a crop of
berries male plants must be planted amongst
the females, or rather on the windward side of
them, that the breeze may distribute the pollen.

There seems to be some confusion as to the dis¬
tinguishing marks of the male and female plants
of the Aucuba. The prevailing impression is that
the variegated leaf betokens the berry bearing
or female plant, and the plain leaf the pollen¬
bearing or male plant; the fact, however, ia
that the colouring of the leaf is no safe guide.

Evergreen Barberries.

In Messrs. Backhouses nurseries at York I saw
recently plain-leafed pUnts well set with berries,
and the intelligent foreman pointed out to me
also variegated-leaved plants which would in a
few months’ time be bearing male (or pollen)
blossoms. Thus we find both sexes in both
varieties of Ancnba, plain and variegated. How,
then, can we distinguish the sex ? The blossom
bud is the test. The buds set in the summer
previous to the flowering season (spring), and
may now (Jannary) be found on mature plants.
The male bud is very similar in appearance t)

that of the Rhododendron. The female bud is
very much smaller, a mere thin spikelet at the
axils of the leaves. This iB the only test, yet,
as a matter of fact, I believe it is rare to meet
at present with variegated male plants. 1 was
also informed that the male plant has a tendency
to blossom earlier than tho female, hence, unless
care is taken, tho female blossoms will not be
fertilised. It would be well to have the female
plants in pots and bring them forward a little,
and to plant the male in an exposed situation, so
as to keep it back as far aa can be. The female
blossoms must then be fertilised artificially by
applying the pollen. Aucubas are well worth a
little tronble and thought, as specimen plants
to brighten the cool greenhouse in the late
winter and early spring.

Lincolnshire Rector.

FRUIT.

PEARS FOR STEWING.

These form a moat acceptable addition to the
list of home-grown fruits during the spring
months, when the shelves of the fruit room begin
to present a bare look, and those who have to
provide a continuous supply of culinary fruits
are taxed to the utmost to provide any variation
in the daily supplies. Some care iu the selec¬
tion of varieties is necessary, for although nearly
any kind of Pears can be utilised for Btewing
purposes up to the time when the days begin to
lengthen, they cannot bo relied on after Feb¬
ruary, and at the best they are but poor substi¬
tutes for the right sorts ; they have not that
beautiful colour when cooked that the true
stewing Pears have, and for keeping late in the
season in plump condition the latter are simply
unapproachable. In some of the coldest parts
of the kingdom it is necessary to grow them as
wall trees, but in the southern and western
counties they may be most successfully grown
as bushes or pyramids. In this locality we are
very frequently visited by severe gales of wind,
and large heavy Pears if on tall trees are liable
to be blown down before they are fit for storing,
but on dwarf trees they are comparatively safe,
and may be allowed to hang till l&te in the
season. They can be readily protected from the
attacks of small birds by means of small meshed
netting, although in hard-fleshed kinds tomtits
will pock little holes close to their footstalks and
caused decay. The best form of tree for such
Pears as these is a branched bush, as in that
case the sap is evenly distributed, and the whole
of the branches keep fertile for a long series of
years, while in the case of treeB in the pyramid
form the upper portion is apt to thrive at the
expense of the lower portion. If planted about
8 feet apart, bush trees form a good background
for central walk borders.

In forming dw'arp spreading bushes the
centre must be kept clear of shoots from the
first, by cutting down the young maiden tree to
within four or five buds of the base. This will
give some good strong shoots to begin with,
and, if shortened at the next winter’s pruning
to about half their length, a good head of shoots
will be formed ; and by keeping the centre open
and the outer shoots regularly disposed and
shortened to about half their length at the
winter pruning, good and fruitful Lushes will
be formed in from four to six years. After that
they may be closely spurred in, and if top-
dressed over the roots annually they should last
many years.

As regards sorts, I can confidently recom¬
mend the following as worthy of a place wher¬
ever stewing Pears are in request—Uvedale’a
St. Germain, a very large Pear, and first-rate in
quality ; Cat iliac, a grand Pear, not so largo os
the preceding, but very solid and heavy;
Belliaaime d’Hiver, a very free cropping variety,
one of the best for general use ; Verulam, or
Black Worcester, a tine old sort of medium
size, and one which makes a prolific bush ; Lion
Leclerc de Laval, a very fine stewing Pear, and
one that keeps well late in the season ; Vicar
of Winkfield, a free bearing sort of medium size
when heavily cropped, but if thinned out in
time it attains a large size. The above half-
dozen sorts will be found enough for any
garden, and equal to any I have ever yet seen
in cultivation.

Gosport . Original I* Janes Groom.

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GRAPES AND FLOWERS TOGETHER.

While gardening may be made one of the most
expensive things going, much more may be done
economically than many people think, and I
will try to show what may be effected at a small
outlay. I live in the northern border of Cheshire,
about two miles from a smoky town (fortunately
direct south of it). My garden is on the north
slope of a sandy hill about twenty miles from the
sea, andatthe westend of it I have about 40yards
square, walled in on the north, east, and west
Bides with three greenhouses or vineries, a small
propagating house or cool stove, and a cool house
with a Peach and Gloire de Dijon Rose on its
back wall; into this last house I can introduce a
little heat if required. In my three greenhouses
I have fifteen vines, all with outside roots.
From one house, a half-span, standing by itself
in the centre and upper part of the walled
garden, the vine roots ramble where they will
under the lawn out of the broken up border.
The other houses are lean-to ones, and have
prepared confined borders, which I carefully
manure. I favour most the Black Hamburghs,
but I have one Muscat of Alexandria, one Dr.
Hogg, two Buckland Sweetwaters, two Venn’s
Black Muscat, and two Mrs. Pince. My best
vine is a Black Hamburgh, forty years old, being
one of those which ramble in the deep yellow
sand under the lawn, on which I leave about
forty bunches annually. Most of my vines have
two fruiting rods and one growing rod. One of
the fruiting rods is cut out every year. Last
year I had about 140 bunches, mostly from one
to two pounds weight, for I thin out the heaviest
bunches, believing that they weaken the vines
most. I never scrape my vines. I have no
means of obtaining more than greenhouse heat—
in hard winters we can just keep the frost out
—and when I say that I cannot grow Lavender.
Rosemary, or Laurustinus in my climate, and
that my Portugal Laurels are periodically
killed, it will be understood that I lie pretty
bleak. Yet with these appliances I have
Grapes from August to Christmas Day.
I have never missed a crop and I never
have any disease in my Vines. The Muscat
of Alexandria does well, and has, 1 think,
a much finer Muscat flavour than when
grown in great heat. Mrs. Pince bears well in
long bunches, and sets and colours admirably ;
I have seen complaints of this, but it starts late,
and I have to keep the house cooler than it likes
at the last. All the others will match any
average Grapes in the country for size, colour,
bloom, and sweetness.

Now comes the great thing. Every one of
my houses is always full of Ferns and flowers,
which I prize more than the Grapes. The back
or north wall of the half-span house is coated
with clinker cinders set in Roman cement, the
interstices being filled up with peat, and is green
all the year round with Ferns, Lycopods,
Begonias, and the creeping green Tradescantia,
so prolific and useful from its lasting properties
for mixing with cut flowers. There is a middle
bed on the floor, full of Ferns and Begonias, in
which I put my Cytisuses, Acacias, Azaleas,
Deutzias, Primroses, and similar plants in their
season, summering them out-of-doors; and on
shelves, wherever a shelf can be fixed, I have
my flowers. I rely mostly on Dutch bulbs,
Primulas, Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Cyclamens,
Pelargoniums, Begonias, Liliums, Tuberoses,
Coleuses, French Daisies, pot Roses (chiefly
Gloire de Dijon), Calla cethiopica (which I bed
out in the summer and have in bloom all winter),
Fuchsias, Petunias, Abutilons, Schizanthus,
Browallia, Stocks, Lasiandra floribunda (which
by summering outside I have in glorious bushes,
containing from sixty to eighty blooms, in an
almost cold house, from September to February).
Gloxinias and many others I grow in abun¬
dance, and they continue from April until
Chrysanthemum time. We keep them under
the greenhouse stages in the winter, not far
from the pipes.

It is, in my opinion, a mistake to grow
Gloxinias in great neat. My two lean-to houseB
have stages and a wide plant and flower shelf
at their lower ends close to the glass. One
of them has the back (north) wall covered with
a Plumbago capensis, rooting under the stage
and blooming like a garland all summer; and
the other has a Black Hamburgh vine trained
across the glass along the back or west side—
this is one of my best vines. I grow also the

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old Euphorbia splendens in a warm corner, and
by feeding it well it blooms profusely eight
months out of the year.

The secret is, first, to have no brick walls
where glass can be substituted, so as to let in
every ray of sun both morning and afternoon.
My best and largest lean-to house has no wall,
except about 4 feet high at the back or west,
and about 2 feet on the other side to support
the glass. Again I leave the sunniest end of
each house without any vine or creeper. Day¬
light and sunshine must come in. The next and
best part of the secret is air—air and plenty of
it—in the daytime, whenever possible, sousing
the floors abundantly with water every night,
and putting on increased heat with the approach
of evening to make up for the absence of the
sun. By this means the vines and plants get by
evaporation a substitute for natural dew ; their
foliage is fed by it, and when the wind and sun
come the next day they are ready for them. In
extremely hot weather (about ten days in a year)
we often souBe the floors, and occasionally, but
rarely, syringe, and when the vines are in bloom
we take great care to avoid draughts, and keep
up all the heat we can. I have only one gardener
and the part assistance of a labourer for my acre
and a half of garden and orchard, and I am
always able to supply flowers and plants for
church decoration and for the table, and to find
Grapes for the sick and dessert five months out
of the twelve.

I do not need to shade my houses artificially ;
the vines do that for me naturally, and
very conveniently shed their leaves for me
during the six months when I want all the
daylight I can get. There are many things
that I cannot manage, of course, but I hope I
have said enough to induce no amateur to despair
of growing Grapes and flowers together ; and it
is to amateurs, and not skilful gardeners, that I
—knowing how little my own skill is—address
these remarks, which are the result of many
years’ trials and experience. Subscriber.

REDRAFTING FRUIT TREES.

The best season for performing this operation
is in spring, but those who contemplate re¬
novating any of their existing trees in this
way should now make the necessary pre¬
paration. Grafts intended for use in spring
should be cut off before any movement of the
sap is perceptible, for if the buds get excited
before the shoots are cut off the grafts will
probably fail, no matter how carefully the graft¬
ing may be done. Buds, like seeds, will keep
long if dormant, but if excited into growth, even
if ever so slightly, and then checked, they perish.
Another matter of importance is to get the stocks
headed down during winter a little above where
they are intended to be grafted, then, when
the time come9 for grafting, take a sharp, small -
toothed saw and cut off the end just where a
clean-barked piece of wood, free from knots or
spurs, occurs. Grafting clay should be prepared
beforehand; it is not always obtainable good
enough to use alone, but a clayey loam mixed
with cow manure, moistened with water and
beaten up until it is as soft as puttv, is one of
the best coverings that can be devised for grafts.
I need not here enter into the merits of the
various kinds of grafting; all are good if well

P erformed, and the stock and scion in good con-
ition, but for fruit trees I like whip-grafting,
which, if done with small shoots, soon heals and
firmly unites. I may remark that grafts when
cut off the tree should not be tied in bundles, as
the centre ones frequently suffer from not being
in contact with the soil. The best plan is to cut
a trench, lay the grafts in, and place the label
at the end of the row. A shaded position,
such as the north side of a wall, is best for
them. J. G.

Protecting Peach trees.— Like many
others of your correspondents Mr. Gilbert would
have made his remarks more useful if he had
given his address. Protection may be essential
in the north and useless in the south. My ex¬
perience in a suburban garden is against it.
When I came here, fourteen years ago, I kept
on an old man who had managed the garden for
many years. My next neighbour, who has a
wall exactlyjlike mine, had always protected her
trees during flowering by a wooden coping, and
nets or canvas ; but my gardener had not done
so, and thought protection needless, and, being
without experience, I used no protection. For
some years my neighbour and I compared notes,
but ultimately she became so convinced that my
crops were quite equal to hers, both in quality
and quantity, that she abandoned all protection.
I agree altogether with Mr. Gilbert’s remarks
on the management of trees, but in addition to
syringing I give water to the roots freely, once
a week in dry seasons.—W. M. C., Clapton.

Canker in Apple trees.—I see by “ W.
Harris’s ” letter in the issue of December 6th
that he does not think that American blight is
the cause of canker in Apple trees. I for one
think he is right. My garden here is in an
exposed situation, and the wind has full power
from the north, south, and east. There was a
lot of nice young Apple trees in it, and every
one of them was affected with canker. I thought
this was due to the soil being too wet and sour
at the roots. When I lifted them up, however,
I noticed that all had a splendid lot of root
fibres. I planted them in fresh loam carted
from a newly broken field, and mixed with it
plenty of rotten manure. They made nice
growth all through the summer, and now the
canker has got the upper hand again ; in fact,
it reigns supreme. I never noticed American
blight until the canker was long set in, and
only to split the bark deeply, as to give it
shelter. I am certain from my own observation
that the canker affecting the trees in my place
is due to the cold and exposure. It was not
attributable to the roots or soil, nor, I believe,
to American blight. I have tried painting,
shifting, cutting out, &c., and now I have
given it up in despair, so long as my garden
remains exposed to cold winds.—H. W. F.,'
co. Wexford.

REPLIES.

12501.— Grapes for open air.— In answer
to “A. W.,” who inquires if Buckland Sweet¬
water is a good one for the purpose, allow me
to state it is one of the last that I would in¬
clude in the list of suitable kinds. The best I
find to be (1) Royal Muscadine, (2) the Old
Sweetwater, (3) Early White Malvasia for
white kinds ; and for black or purple Grapes
(1) Miller’s Burgundy, (2) Esperione, and (3)
Black Cluster. These may all be relied on to
ripen good crops, provided they have a wall
facing the sun, and the shoots are kept thin so
that the solar heat can get to warm the bricks.
Stop the shoots at one joint beyond the bunch,
reduce the bunches to one on each shoot, and
thin out the berries as soon as they are large
enough to get the scissors amongst them. Water
the roots freely with liquid manure when the
fruit is swelling, and bunches of 1 lb. each will
be the result.—J. G., Hants.

12515. — Show Gooseberries. — “ Ama¬
teur ” does not state whether he requires
fruit for weight or quality. When for the
former colour and flavour are taken into con¬
sideration. I think the following, with which I
have won scores of prizes, are the best for
quality: Dan’s Mistake and Companion, both
bright rough red ; Catherina, bright rough yel¬
low ; Leveller, smooth deep yellow ; Stockwell,
smooth deep green; Careless, smooth clear
white. All are good flavoured and large size.
For weight the following are the best:—Reds :
Bobby, London, Lord Derby ; Yellows : Ringer,
Lady Houghton, Mount Pleasant; G reens :
British Oak, Shiner, Surprise ; White : Antago¬
nist, Transparent, Hero of the Nile.—B. B. G.

- These aro divided into four olasses. The two best

in each class are Red : London, Dan’s Mistake ; Yellow :
Catherine. Leveller ; Green : 8hiner, Stockwell; White :
Antagonist and Careless.—J. D. E.

12582.— Peach house after fruiting.— We find the
Peach house an excellent place to arrange the Chrysanthe¬
mums. They are taken into the house early in October,
as the flower-buds are all well set by that timo. The
house must be freely aired until the flowers are open.—
J. D. E.

12487.— Orange and Lemon trees.— The leaves o
the Lemon tree are larger and a paler green, as a rule*
than those of an Orange tree. Give your trees a top-
dressing evory year, and water with soot water, keeping
the leaves clean.—C orisandb.

12497.— Pruning Medlar tree. —A Medlar tree only
fifteen years old is comparatively yonng, and, therefore,
more likely to bear fruit in the future than the past. Do
not prune it, but, if it is not making good growth, place
over its roots a layer 4 inches thick ef good farmyard
manure.—J. C. C.

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GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

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INDOOR PLANTS.

DOUBLE BOUVARDIAS.

Apart from the consideration as to whether a
single or a doable dower is the more beautiful,
the doubles certainly have one great point in
their favour, and that is that the blossoms
remain longer in perfection than those of single
kinds, and where employed in arrangements of
cut flowers they do not drop as the single sorts
are somewhat liable to do. The double white
variety called Alfred Neuner was sent to this
country by Messrs. Nanz and Neuner, of Louis-
i, Kentucky, in the spring of 1881, and
since then it has steadily advanced in
popular favour. Concerning the propagation
of this variety a good deal has been written,
it being contended by some that only cuttings
made of the leading shoots retained their double-
flowered character, and that the small side
branches if struck reverted to the single form.
My experience, however, is that there is no hard
and fast rule to be laid down in this respect.
As it originated from a sport, its character is
not thoroughly fixed, and therefore cuttings will
occasionally bear single flowers, from whatever
part of the plant they are taken, although the
stronger shoots are less liable to become single
than the weak ones. Plants propagated from
root cuttings I find to be very untrust¬
worthy in this respect, but in cuttings
of young shoots taken from healthy
plants cases of reversion are so few in
number as to be of little moment.

In the winter of 1881, having a large
number of this Bouvardia in flower,

I selected two or three, the blossoms
of which were more or less tinged
with pink, and propagated from them
the result being that they maintained
that character, but in depth of hue
they were before long surpassed by
another importation from the States.

B. President Garfield is, strictly
speaking, a pink counterpart of A.

Neuner, and one liable to sport at
times, aB among those I have flowered
some are of a much brighter hue
than others. Both these Bouvardias
are undoubtedly destined to become
very popular.

Culture. — Where cut flowers
alone are required a common and
successful mode of culture is to plant
out in a prepared bed of soil either
in a low house or frame, which can be
heated at pleasure. In this way
Bouvardias grow more quickly thau
in pots and yield a proportionately
larger amount of bloom. Young
plants to be grown thus are potted
off as soon as struck, given one shift,
and then planted out. The soil
should be moderately light — say
one-third leaf-mould to two-thirds
of loam, or one-half of each, accord¬
ing to the consistency of the loam. After
this is done maintain a close growing atmos¬
phere until they have started away freely,
and when in full growth they will be benefited
by a little manure water. They should be
gradually hardened, so that by the middle of
summer the lights may be removed altogether,
and only put on in case of heavy and long con¬
tinued rains. Thus by the end of August they
will have well rijpened their wood, and will be
ready under an increased temperature to burst
into bloom, when if kept at from 55 degs. to 65
degs. daring win ter they will maintain a continual
supply of cut flowers. The planting out system
is also followed by many for the production of
bushy plants, to be potted up in autumn in the
way in which Solanums, Chrysanthemums, and
similar subjects are done. For this purpose
they should be planted out about the beginning
of June, and though they will grow in the open
in Bummer without any protection, it is desirable
to have them in a frame, as in that case the
lights can be put over them when required.
The middle of September is a good time in which
to lift and pot them, and these operations should
be done carefully. When potted they must be
kept close and warm for a few days till they re¬
cover from the check received ; after that all
that is necessary is to keep up a temperature of
from 55 degs. to 65 degs., or even a few degrees
higher, in order to maintain a supply of flowers

throughout the winter. The method followed
by growers for Covent Garden Market, and
certainly the most satisfactory for the produc¬
tion of small plants, is to confine them always
to pots, treating them much in the same way
in potting, stopping, Ac., as Fuchsias, except as
regards the increased heat during autumn and
winter.

Propagation. —Bouvardias are all readily
propagated by means of cuttings if skilfully
chosen. The moat satisfactory way to set about
the work is as follows :—After flowering keep
them somewhat drier than before; then early
in February place them in a gentle heat where
they can be occasionally syringed, and where a
moist growing atmosphere can be maintained.
The result of this will be that young Bhoots
will bo produced from all parts of the plant,
and if these aro taken off as soon as large
enough, and while they are still succulent, they
will root as easily as Verbena cuttings. Care
must, however, be taken during the operation
that they do not flag to any great extent, and
with this object a propagating case must be
used to keep them close till rooted. As a
rule, if they have a thorough watering when
first put in, and if the case is moist, they
will require but little more until they have
struck root. It is necessary, however, to guard

June were in full flower. It will thus be seen
that the Bouvardia readily adapts itself to the
different circumstances under which it may be
placed. ___ H. P.

PRIMULA SIKBOLDI AND ITS VARIETIES.
I have grown the different varieties of this fine
species of Primula for at least twenty years,
and find them in every way most satisfactory.
I repot them in July or August, in the belief
that, under that treatment, the plants can
become well established before winter. Their
worst enemy is red spider, which attacks them
whenever the dry weather sets in. This pest
destroys the leaves before the crowns are well
matured, and they have a tendency to start into
growth before the time for their winter rest
arrives, and this, of course, causes a weak growth
and bloom in the spring. The best place to
winter them is in a cold frame, and they ought
to be plunged in Cocoa-nut fibre refuse. If they
are kept in a greenhouse during winter it must
be where they are close to the glass, and where
they can receive plenty of light and air as soon
as they start into growth. It is to be regretted
that someone, having time and means at disposal,
doeB not take up the subject of improving this
fine class of Primulas. Those who have

attempted improvement have gone at it by fits
against too much moisture, otherwise they may i and starts, and do not seem to have been very

successful. Brilliant is the deepest
coloured, being of a rich crimson
with a rosy tint. Purple King is the
best of its colour. I have grown two
or three purple varieties, but I do
not find the flowers stand well ; they
are too delicate. If this one possesses
more lasting properties, it will be an
acquisition. Gem is reddish purple,
of dwarf habit, and very distinct.
Victor possesses very good qualities ;
it has large well-formed flowers of a
rosy red colour. Polly has rosy
flowers, also of good form, and of
large size. Pearl would be white ex¬
cept for a flush of purple on the back
of the petals. Jane is whitish with
a rose tinge on the back of the
flowers. The above are all well-
formed flowers with a smooth margin.
The following have fringed flowerB :
—Mars is deep reddish purple, and
Nelly has large blooms, crimson
tinged with rose. Novelty is of a

E rie lilac colour, and quite distinct.

lushing Bride is perhaps the best of
these fringed varieties ; it is white,
with pale rose on the reverse of the
petals. Emma is lilac and pale
purple. At least as many more
varieties possess considerable merit.

J. Douglas.

Doubie Bouvardia, Alfred Ncunor. Flowers white, natural size.

damp off. Root cuttings are not much em¬
ployed. In order to strike them, all that is
necessary is to cut the stouter roots into pieces
about an inch long, and insert them perpendicu¬
larly in pots or pans of sandy soil, keeping them
close till young shoots are produced from the
top portion of the roots after the manner of
seedlings. In catting up the roots, lay the
upper parts all in one direction; otherwise, if
the pieces become mixed, it is nearly impossible
to distinguish the upper from the lower portions,
and in that case the chances are that some will
be put in in a reverse position. The roots should
be just covered with the soil.

Summer flowering.— There is no difficulty
in obtaining a supply of Bouvardia flowers
throughout the summer months if the plants
have not been allowed to exhaust themselves
previously. My attention was first directed to
this by a number of the scarlet Hogarth that
did not flower much in the winter, but which,
on being planted in the open ground when the
season was sufficiently advanced, produced a
great quantity of bloBsoms throughout the
summer months, when, though flowers are plen¬
tiful, such chaste subjects are always valuable.
The white Humboldti corymbiflora also flowers
well in this way; and last spring, having some
small plants of Alfred Neuner, I potted them on,
and placed them in an intermediate house, with
the result that they grew away freely, and by

Digitized by

Gougle

Azalea Mrs. Buist.—When
this Azalea gets better known uu.l
has had time to attain a good size
it will be found to be a most valuable
plant for many purposes. In habit cf growth,
and indeed in all respects but in the colour of the
flowers, it is an exact counterpart of arnmna.
Its white flowers, whether on the plant or cut,
cannot fail to please. It is, unfortunately, a
alow grower, but os it possesses so many good
qualities we can afford to put up with that fail¬
ing.—C.

Carnation Andalusia.—This is one of the freest-
fluwvrinc varieties with which I am acquainted. Wc have
growing in a span-roofed greenhouse half-a-doien plants,
which have been .supplying us with their beautiful, clear,
lemon-colourod flowers for weeks, and still they are full of
flower buds.—W. C.

REPLIES.

12409.—Plants for greenhouse.— “Early
Subscriber” will find Camellias, Azaleas,
Oranges and Lemons, hardy British Ferns,
Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Solanums, Heaths, and
Palms all do well in a cool house. If he wants
Creepers, let him plant a Mardchal Niel Rose
in the border; also some good Pasaiflora,
and pnrple Clematis; these will all spread
rapidly over the roof. A succession of flowers
may be kept up with little difficulty, in a cool
house, almost throughout the year. Bulbs
such as Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissi, planted
in November, will in February and March make
a grand display, especially mixed with Spinea
alba and palmata, Deutzia gracilis, and
Dielytra spectabilis. These will continue in

J * ungi narmuri

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

t tJUUJJSMSfG ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 24, 1885. t

flower for several weeks, and then may make
room for summer Liliums, such as L. auratum,
l&ncifolium, rubrum and album, L. longiflorum,
etc. ; Geraniums, Fuchsias, Pelargoniums;
Roses, such as Isabella Sprunt, Safrano,
Safrani, Niphetos. In their places these will
make room for the autumn plants, such as Chry¬
santhemums of all kinds, Camellias, Hoaths,
Solanums, and Salvia (blue and red variety),
which will last in bloom almost until the spring
flowers come in. January and February are the
two worst months for flowers, but even then the
conservatory will look nice with Ferns and
Palms. Doubtless there are many more plants
which would do well in a cool house, but those
I have named will, I know, flourish and make
a nice show.— One Who Loves Flowers.

12503.— Heat for Gloxinias, &c.—You
may raise the Cineraria, Petunia, aud Calceolaria
without bottom heat in the greenhouse or cold
frame. Sow the two former in March in pans,
covering with a piece of glass ; treat the Cal¬
ceolaria similarly, but June will be soon enough,
and ^laco in cold frame and shade from the sun,
keeping them as cool as possible through the hot
weather. Begonias and Primulas require a
gentle hotbed or other bottom heat to raise
them, and the Gloxinias will want more warmth.
The Primulas and Gloxinias should be put into
separate thumb pots as soon as they are 1 inch
high, and potted on as they grow ; but all the
rest should be pricked out into other pans or
boxes first, and grown on awhile before putting
into single pots.—C. H. S.

- Gloxinia seeds should be raised in a

hothouse, and be grown on there until they
come to the flowering state. The seeds are
very small indeed. They should be sown
early in February in pans or pots of very fine
soil. The seeds must just be covered, and
over the pot should l>o laid a square of
glass to keep the soil from drying up. The
temperature of the house ought to be about
55 degs., and the seeds will vegetate more freely
if the pots or pans are afforded a little bottom
heat. Begonia seeds would vegetate freely,
and the young plants would do well in such a
house; the seeds may be sown at the same time.
Calceolaria, Cineraria, and Petunia seeds may
be raised in a hotbed, the Petunias to be sown
about the first week in March, to give the
plants a good chance to flower, if they are
planted out of-doors about the first of June.
The Cinerarias and Calceolarias may be sown in
succession between April and July. The
Primula japonica seeds may be sown in pots,
and the seeds should be allowed to vegetate in
a cold frame. The whole of tlio plants enume¬
rated above may be raised from seeds in a
greenhouse, and be grown there, with the
exception of the Gloxinias.—J. D. E.

12481.—Cultivation of Ageratum.—
This is propagated and increased by seeds and
cuttings. If required true, the former is the only
sure way. Sow the seeds in heat in shallow
boxes of rich sandy soil, prick the plants out
into thumb pots as soon as they are large
enough to handle, and keep them in heat till
well rooted and growing freely. Then place
them in a cooler house or frame, and transfer
into larger pots when the thumb pots get full of
roots. Keep them steadily growing until time
to plant out—the end of May or later, according
to season and locality. To propagate by cut¬
tings, have some pans or boxes filled with rich
sandy loam ready in the early part of September.
Fill these with cuttings, and place the boxes
in a close warm frame, sprinkling the cuttings
with tepid water daily. When rooted, give air
and gradually harden off for winter quarters.
Some growers top these cuttings in spring, and
strike the tops on a hotbed, or in a propagating
house, and grow them on for bedding out.—J. P.,
Lancashire.

-This is only grown as a bedding plant. Cuttings

should be taken from th* flowering plants in September,
and be rooted in a frame. They may be wintered in a
cool greenhouse, and early in spring cuttings must be
tak« n from them and be propagated on a hotbed. Spring
propagated plants arc much superior to the old stool*
which passed through the winter in store pot*.—J. D. E.

- Get peed of Ageratum—Malvern Beauty ; sow in a

hotbed in March, prick out and plant out in lines or
masses the last week in May, in ordinary gardon soil.—

COKISANDB.

12493.— Lapageria alba.— The southend
of your greenhouse being brick, it is just the
place for the Lapageria. It should be planted
in a bed about 2 feet square, of good fibrous

Digitized by GOCK^lC

peat, with about a fifth sharp sand added, and
at least G inches of broken brick or stone at the
bottom for drainage. Keep the roots quite
clear of your hot-water pipes, the effect of heat
at the roots being very injurious. You would
improve the appearance of the wall if you cover
it all over with a close carpet of Ficus repens,
with pockets of Virgin Cork here and there for
Ferns and foliage Begonias, and then train your
Lapageria on wires a few inches in front, as
their foliage is not sufficiently dense to hide the
brickwork.—E. G., Hull .

- If we had to choose the position we

would plant at the north end, for Lap&gerias
grow best where but little sun comes, but where
they get plenty of light. They often fail to
grow well in a sunny place. Why not plant
one at each end—the red kind on the wall, the
white at the north end ? If no sun comes till
three o'clock on the wall, the red kind would
probably do well enough there. Take the soil
out 15 inches deep, put 4-inch brick rubble at the
bottom, laying pieces of fibrous peat on that,
and plant in good peat with one-sixth of white
sand in it. Now is a good time to plant.—
J. C. B.

124S4. — Calceolaria cuttings. —
“Novice” must let his Calceolaria cuttings
alone, for if they keep green and healthy there
is no fear about their rooting. Keep the lights
close shut until the tops begin to grow in
February, when plenty of air must be admitted,
and the growing points pinched out to induce a
dwarf, bushy habit of growth. In March they
may be transplanted into temporary frames,
about 6 inches apart, covering with any spare
glass, and exposing them as freely as possible on
all favourable occasions, and by the end of April
they may be planted out where they are to
remain, sheltering them from cutting winds
or frost by means of evergreen branches stuck in
the soil around them. I have proved this plan
to give good results for many years past. If
left until May they do not get established before
the hot summer weather is upon them, and then
they fail and cause unsightly gaps in the beds
or borders in which they are employed.—J. G.,
Hants.

- Perhaps your correspondent has been

tempted, like myself one mild autumn, to
open the frames, with the result that though
the cuttings were in the spring still green and
fresh, no roots had formed, and the whole were
eventually lost. Experience has taught me
never to open the frames before the middle of
February, when with proper soil and a foot
deep of broken pots for drainage one cannot fail
to bo successful.—R. W. G.

| -Tho early part of November is rather late to put

in Calceolaria cutting. The middle or even the third
week In Octobor would be better. They will form roots
presently, even though they have no other aid than is
afforded by tho shelter of a cold frame.—J. D. E.

12484 They will root next month if you do not disturb
them.— E. G. F.

12495.— Seeds of Fuchsia. —Fuchsia seeds
should be got out of the pulp by washing them
out in clean water ; then spread them out on a
sheet of paper to dry, placing tho paper in a
secure position in a warm room. If you can
command a temperature of 60 degs. in a hot¬
house or Cucumber bed you may sow the seed
early in February. If you have no heated
structure, defer sowing the seed until the early
part of April. Drain with crocks two 6-inch
pots, and fill about three parts with any
ordinary potting soil. The remaining space
must be filled with a fine sandy compost. On
this sow the seed, and cover lightly with the
same kind of material. Place the pots in a
warm corner of the greenhouse, and as the
plants come up let them have a little shade.
Pot off the plants into single pots as they get
large enough.—J. C. C.

- When the Beed pods are ripe they should

be picked off, and tho pulp pressed out. They
should then be laid by to dry, when the seeds
can be easily abstracted. The seed should be
sown in February, in pots half filled with
crocks, over which place some rough material,
and then fill up to within half an-inch of the
top with soil consisting chiefly of well-rotted
manure. Sprinklo the seed thinly, and cover
very slightly with a little fine Cocoa fibre, water,
and place in a temperature ol 50 degs. or
60 degs. When the seeds are up and sufficiently
large enough to handle, prick off singly into
small pots, and keep them near the glass to

revent them from becoming drawn. They may
e bloomed in small pots, and any worth keep- A
ing should be grown on, and the others thrown il
away.—W. E. Boyce, Holloway . n

- The mode generally practised is to take

the fruit while fresh, and rub up the pulp with
sand, so as to separate the seeds, and then,
having been dried, save till about February or t
March, if you have no bottom heat in the green¬
house, and sow all together. Sow on the surface
of a pan of good fine leaf-mould, sprinkle a dash *
of dry sand on top, and cover with a piece of 1
glass, placing the pan in a moderate hotbed or 1
Cucumber frame. When large enough to
handle, put the plants in separate thumbpots in
nice open leafy soil, and keep in warmth, potting
on as they need. There is no difficulty in
raising them if the seed is good.—C. H. S.

12195 Crush the berries, wash away tho pulp, and dry
the seed on a ]«apcr in the sun. Sow the seed in March.—

E. G F.

12480 and 12490.— Repotting tuberous
Begonias. —Tuberous Begonias should be re¬
potted as soon as the young growth is about an
inch long. In the case of a large collection
they will not, of course, be in this condition all
at the same time. Some are started, or start
naturally, into growth earlier than others, and
each plant can be shaken out and repotted when
it is ready. “ Westbury ” wishes to know if
top-dressing in spring would be preferable to re¬
potting. ft would not. The Begonia is a gross
feeder, and soon exhausts the soil. Moreover,
the old soil would be probably sour, and the
drainage defective, so that for various reasons
it is an advantage to shake last season’s soil
almost entirely from the tuber, and give it
something fresh and good. Few plants stand,
and even relish, disturbance of the roots as
much as these, and I may add that few are more
easily cultivated and produce such a glorious
display. — R. W. Beachey, Kingskcrswell t
Devonshire.

- If you wish them to bloom early you may

put them in gentle heat next month until they
have started, and then repot into a small pot,
using good fibrous loam and leaf-mould for com¬
post with an admixture of sharp sand. Replace
in warmth and pot on as growth progresses,
watering sparingly at first, and giving more as the
pots get more full of roots. A better way, and
one I always practice, is, however, to let the
tubers start naturally without bottom heat. They
are, of course, later in bloom; but the plants are,
in my opinion, stronger and healthier. They
start thus in an ordinary greenhouse about
March or April, and except in omitting
bottom heat, they should bo treated as advised
above. They will come into bloom some time
in July.—C. H. S.

- On and after tho first of February the tubers may be

potted in good turfy loam, some decayed manure, and sand ;
leaf-mould, or a small portion of sandy peat, may also bo
added to it. Do not water too freely at first, and If the
lants arc to flower early they should be placed in a warm
ouse, and kept near tho glass to promote a healthy
growth.—J. D. E.

- As soon 03 the Begonias begin to show signs of

growth, shake the soil from the roots and repot; at first,
into small pot* with good drainage and a light, sandy soil.
They will do well with a little heat till the warm weather
comes, and then plenty of air should be given. “Oak-
leigh " must take care at first starting, as the tubers are
apt to decay.—P sxsrb.

-These should be repotted just as they show Rigna

of starting into new growth. Shake off all tho old soil, and
repot in a compost of three-parts turfy loam, onc-pait leaf
soil, and a fair sprinkling of sllvor sand or coarse road
grit.—J. C. C.

- Repot them in nice loamy soil in March, giving

bottom heat. Shift os the pots fill with roots, and when
ready for the conservatory give plenty of air and room.
Don’t keep them too moist.— Corns asde.

-Top dressing tuberous-rooted Begonias will not

Insure such a good growth as giving them fresh soli
annually. Shake out the tubers in March, and pot them
in fresh soil, giving all the largest bulbs a fresh pot ono
size larger.—J. C. C.

12557.— London Greenhouse. —The most
satisfactory plants for a greenhouse in London
are spring flowering bulbs, the best of which
are the Hyacinths. They are so plentiful now
that a few shillings will purchase a supply for a
small greenhouse. Early floweriug Tulips are
very showy, and the Bweet perfume of the Poly¬
anthus Narcissus is also esteemed. Small pots
planted with Scillas, Crocus, and Snowdrops
are charming. The lovely Chionodoxa Lucillite
is charming in pots, and a few of Irb reticulata
cannot fail to please. Vallotas do well for
autumn blooming. Genista fragrans is hardy
and blooms freely. A London friend makes a

Original from

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jan. 24, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

601

( brave show with yellow Calceolarias of the
shrubby type. Fuchsias are not mentioned, but
they are excellent and very beautiful. Cine¬
rarias are so liable to be attacked by green fly
that they are better left out. Calceolarias
suffer from this peat still more—that is, the
herbaceous type ; they must also be omitted.
Deutzia gracilis and Spiriea japonica are easily
grown and are much valued.—J. D. E.

12457.— Lasiandra macrantha —Your
correspondent •• Corisande," in answer to this
question, says: “ This plant requires stove

heat, and it should be in flower now." I have
been very successful with this magnificent
flower, and with me it flowers in September.
After flowering I keep it rather dry, in a house
ranging from 40 degs. to 45 degs. minimum
temperature, till about the end of February,
when it is well cut back. The cuttings strike
readily with a little bottom heat. As soon as
the old plant commences fresh growth I repot
it in good sandy loam, with a few small lumps
of charcoal added.—E. G., Hull.

- I was surprised to see in your number

of Jan. 10 a mention of Lasiandra macrantha as
requiring stove treatment, or at any rate a
warm house, and also as being a shy flowerer.
1 bought a plant of the variety floribunda at a
nursery here last autumn, and have had it since
in my conservatory, where the thermometer has
been down more than once to 36 or 37 degs., but
the plant looks very healthy and is now begin¬
ning to make growth. It has been in flower
from the beginning of November to the present
time, now having fifteen or sixteen flowers out,
and must have had dozens of flowers on it
altogether. — Borderer.

12414.— Olianthus punioeus and Dam-
pieri. —The first-named of these two Glory
Peas is of easy culture, and well suited for the
greenhouse of an amateur. Well grown it is a
very attractive plant, but being naturally of a
somewhat prostrate habit, it is not seen to
advantage unless grown in standard form. In
the case of young plants, instead of stopping the
, leading shoot let it run up to a height of 1 foot,
and put a neat stake to it. Then it will form
a Bpreading head and will present a very
attractive appearance. Give plenty of air, and
syringe twice a day in hot weather to keep down
red spider, which is its great enemy. C. Dampieri
is a much more difficult plant to manage, ana one
which taxes the skill of clever plant growers.
It is not a plant for a small grower. Try some¬
thing else more likely to turn out satisfactory.
Not one gardener in a hundred can grow Dam-
pier’s Glory Pea to perfection.—J. C. B.

12479.— Narcissus. —You will not be able to get your
Pheasant’:* Eye N. to flower twice in one year. They must
have their period of rest. Better force it alternate years.—
Corlbajidr.

- The Pheasant’s Eye Narcissus will bloom a second

year in pots if, after flowering, they are kept in a shady
place and freely watered with manure water. A much
better plan, however, is to turn them out into a border for
the second season, and aftor a year’s rest prick out the
finest bulbs for potting, and replace the small ones to
mature in the open ground.— E. G., Hull.

12519 . — Yellow Chrysanthemum for late
blooms. —I consider grandiflora the best late kind.—
J. D. E. _

LILY CULTURE.

To my assertion that, in the case of Lilies,
root action is progressing through the winter,
Mrs. Davidson, in vour issue of December 20th,
cries “ Questionbut your correspondent
will pardon me if I say that she can never
have accurately observed the behaviour of
Lilies after the tops have died down. In my
former article on this subject I said, “ What
nature preserves we have no right to destroy
and, if such be the case, my criticism was not
wide of the mark, as Mrs. Davidson, by keep¬
ing the soil dry for a period of two months after
the stems have died down, causes these roots
to perish, which otherwise would remain in a
fresh, healthy, and, to a certain extent, active
condition. It is evident that Mrs. Davidson
fails to grasp the fact that Lilies differ radically
from Hyacinths, Narcissus, and other bulbs
which, having completed their growth and
perfected their flowers, die off both at top and
at the roots, and are in an absolute state of rest
’ until a fresh lot of roots issue from the bulb.
Your correspondent says that in keeping the
soil dry she does not destroy roots because they
have not come into existence—alluding, of
course, to those which, about the beginning of

Digitized by CjOO^IC

the year, issue from the base of the bulb, and
ignoring those which have sustained the plants
through the growing season, and which are
ready to render the same service again if only
accorded the conditions natural to them. There
is, perhaps, one reason why many fail to realise
the perennial nature of Lily roots—the plants,
after flowering, are allowed to take their chance
in the open air, and often get drenched with
rain, which causes the old roots to perish, so
that when turned out of the pots later on
they are completely decayed, and the infer¬
ence is that this is their natural condition in
the resting season. When Lilies are in full
growth they will take a considerable amount of
water with advantage, but no sooner do the
flowers fade than they appear to become highly
sensitive to an overdose of water. If grown in
the open the pots should be laid on their sides
in a rainy time, but the beat way is to keep them
under cover, giving them water when they dry
out. In this way the smallest fibres will remain
healthy and active until growth recommences.
Some of my Japan Lilies are grown in pots
which contain between twelve and twenty large
bulbs. One or two of them received the greater
portion of the autumn rains upon them, and
many of the roots I find are gone, while those
better protected have a mass of white, healthy
roots, which occupy every inch of the outside
of the ball. Now, I want to know which
plants are in the best condition. I certainly
prefer those which have their roots entire ; they
will start stronger, and may be fed with liquid
manure from the time they come into growth.
I consider the annual repotting of Lilies not to
be of such paramount importance as it is often
thought to be. My reason for this belief is the
behaviour of some plants which had nothing
done to them last year. One, the white variety
of speciosum, threw up fifteen stems, averaging
5 feet in height, and carrying in the aggregate
over one hundred good blooms. The most care¬
fully repotted plants would do little, if any, more
than this. A non-shifted plant is much easier
to manage, the pots being so much fuller of roots,
and nutriment can be given at any time. I have
just been reading of a plant of auratum which
has been five years in the same pot, and which
this year produced fifty-three good blooms.
This seems to entirely confirm the opinion I have
formed in the matter. Mrs. Davidson speaks
of the highest development of Lilium auratum,
but how has this been obtained ? Not from
imported bulbs, so many of which, owing to the
unnatural conditions to which they have to
submit, die at once or linger on for a time ; but
from bulbs some years in position, which have
never been exposed to root disturbance. In
Mr. McIntosh’s garden, at Weybridge, L.
auratum has attained a height of 11 feet and
borne as many as seventy blooms on a single
stem. To what is this wonderful luxuriance
due? Why, to the large quantity of roots
which, owing to exceptionally favourable condi¬
tions, remain in perfect health from year to year.
No “ rested " bulbs could ever approach these
in luxuriance. J. Cornhill.

PERPETUAL FLOWERING CARNATIONS.
These delightful flowers are becoming general
favourites, and they well deserve to be so, see¬
ing that they may be had in bloom, if the
accommodation of an ordinary Pelargonium
house is at command, from the time the summer-
flowering kinds have ceased flowering until they
again come into bloom. They are, indeed, a

g reat boon where choice flowers are required for
ntton-hole bouquets, table decoration, or for
furnishing small tube glasses for writing tables.
For decorating the dinner table we find them
moBt useful, arranged in similar glasses to those
for writing tables, with the addition of a little
Grass of the commoner kinds or Maiden hair
Fern, either of which suits them well. Plants
raised from seed would probably suit those who
do not require many and are not particular
about colours and kinds. Of seed we purchased
a 2s. 6d. packet from one of our principal
seedsmen, and its produce gave us great satis¬
faction. It was sown in March on a moderate
hotbed ; as soon as the seedlings appeared above
ground they were placed in a light position,
and when large enough to handle were pricked
off round the edges of 3-inch pots, and replaced
on the bed in order to give them a start, and as
soon as they had become a little established

they were removed to a cold frame, when their
after treatment was identical with that recom¬
mended for

Plants from cuttings. — Where named
kinds are to be grown and none are at command,
no time should be lost in purchasing a plant or
two of such sorts as are wanted. They
should be placed in a little warmth at once, to
cause them to break into a soft, healthy growth ;
these young shoots, taken off with a heel, and
inserted in sandy soil in small pots and placed
in a moderately brisk bottom-heat, either from
fermenting material or hot water, will quickly
emit roots. Though cuttings do best when taken
off with a heel, it is not absolutely necessary, as
they, will do very well if the cut is mado in
moderately firm wood just below a joint. The
way in which I have often inserted cuttings
when extra care has been necessary, say with
an extra scarce variety, is to slightly crock a
5-inch pot, and in that to place another, 3 inches
in diameter, filling up the inch space around the
inner pot with sandy soil, in which the cuttings
are inserted ; this method, I am certain, is well
worth the extra trouble taken, and cannot but
find favour with those who, like myself, have
found that cuttings root best around the sides of
the pots. Moreover, another advantage may bo
claimed for this plan—viz., it admits of the
water being poured into the middle pot without
damping the foliage, of which cuttings are not
altogether fond. When they have taken root,
which they will have done in from three weeks
to a month, according to the state of the wood
and the heat to which they have been sub¬
jected, they must be gradually hardened off,
when they will be fit for potting singly into
3-inch pots, placed in a cold frame, and kept
rather close for a few days. Care must, how¬
ever, be taken not to allow this stifling atmo¬
sphere to be maintained too long, as nothing
enjoys exposure more than these Carnations do.
Therefore, as soon as they have got a slight hold
of the soil, air must be admitted by degrees
until it reaches a good circulation daily. When
both cuttings and seedlings have filled their
pots with roots they may be shifted into pots
2 inches or 3 inches larger than those they are
in—say, 5-inch pots for the smaller, and 7-inch
ones for the stronger growers, sizes which will
be found large enough for plants struck in
March, as their pots should be filled with
roots before winter. After this potting,
if the weather is not so wet as to saturate
the soil too much, their best position is
on a bed of ashes in the open air from June
to September. Then some of them should
be throwing up flowers, and should be securely
staked. If signs of flowering exhibit themselves
too early in the season the tops should be

E inched off, and this will induce the plants to
reak out laterally, and become bushy. This
pinching is more necessary in the case of some
kinds than in that of others. The soil in which
we have found them to thrive best is a mixture
of loam, leaf-soil, dried cow manure, and a good
portion of sharp sand ; this is made up in the
following proportions, viz., one-half loam and
the other three ingredients in equal parts. The
sand which we use is drift from the sides of the
carriage drives—a sharper and better material
for the purpose than the fine-grained sand too
often used for potting purposes.

Varieties. —Those who have not had an op¬
portunity of making their own selection will
find the following kinds reliable—viz., M. Bald¬
win, Lucifer, Alcgatiere (scarlet), La Belle, Em¬
press of Germany, the Bride, and White Swan
(white), Miss Joliffe (blush), Annie Williams
(pink), and Andalusia (yellow). It is best to
house the plants before autumn rains set in,
assigning them as light a position as possible,
and if a temperature of about 50 degs. at night
and 55 degs. by day can be maintained, there
will be no lack of bloom in the darkest days of
winter. One great advantage belonging to
these flowers over many others is their lasting
properties. If not wanted at any stated time,
they will keep in good condition upon the plants
for a week or two, and almost as long in glasses,
provided the water is changed occasionally.

_c. w. c.

Azalea mollis. —For greenhouse or con¬
servatory decoration during early spring this
Azalea is very valuable. It can be had in bloom
with but little trouble, and its flowers are
borne in such numbers that the whole plant

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

602

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 24, 1885.

seems to be a mass of blossom. Little bashes of
it bristling with flower-buds are imported yearly
in great numbers from Belgium, and, as may be
supposed, meet with ready sale, being suitable
for potting and forcing at once. There are now
a great number of named varieties belonging to
this class of Azaleas, but most of those imported
are seedlings, and consequently there is
generally amongst them a good range of oolour,
varying from pale yellow to orange, and even to
reddish buff, while others exhibit different
shades of a pinkish hue. Directly after flowering
this Azalea and its varieties start into growth, so
that when their beauty is over they should be
kept in a frame till all danger from frost is past.
When set out-of-doors they may be treated in
different ways. In the first place, they can be
plunged in a bed of Cocoa-nut refuse, spent
Hops, ashes, or something in that way, and, if
attended to with water during the summer, eaoh
shoot will be terminated by a plump flower-bud
ready to expand with the return of spring.
Where forced in numbers, however, the better
way is to plant them out in a bed, prepared for
their reception, if the soil be loamy, by the
incorporation of some peat or leaf-mould. As
they like to be kept rather moist, the bed should,
if in a hot and dry spot, be formed somewhat
lowerthan the surrounding ground, and provision
should bo made if possible for watering it when
required. It should be situated in a sunny spot,
as in that case flower-buds are formed more
freely than if shaded. At the approach of
winter, the plants can again be dug up, potted,
and placed in a cold frame till required, when it
will be found that their blossoms open just as
well as if grown in pots the whole year round,
and certainly without requiring anything like
the amount of attention. If not required for
forcing another year they may, after flowering,
be hardened off as above described, and then
planted out in the shrubberies; they are as
hardy as Laurels, and their beautiful blooms are
fully as attractive out-of-doors as when grown
under glass, though, in common with all early
flowering subjects, cutting winds and late Bpring
frosts arc apt to injure them.— Alpha.

Narcissi can be made to flower every
year in pots, and serve to decorate the conser¬
vatory, but they must be carefully treated.
There are two ways of dealing with them and
similar bulbs after they go out of flower. The
first is to let them remain in the pots, taking
care not to injure the leaves, and to place them
in a cold greenhouse or pit to complete their
growth. Give them plenty of air and water
until the foliage turns yellow, when they may
bo stood out-of-doors. The other way is to
plant them out carefully in a bed of soil in a
cold frame as soon as they go out of flower. Be
careful to keep the leaves from injury. Keep
the frame close for a fortnight and the soil and
leaves damp. As soon as the leaves show
signs of reviving increase the supply of air and
water at the roots. When the foliage dies
down they may be taken up and repotted for
the next year, and thus the space in the frame
will be left available for other plants.—J. C. C.

Good room plants.—These are now in
general request and sufficient must be pro¬
vided to meet the demand. In the selection
of varieties, particularly of such as are grown
for their handsome leaves, it is advisable to
choose those that are capable of keeping up a
healthy appearance under the adverse conditions
by which they will be surrounded. Among the
species and varieties that will bear the atmo¬
sphere of living rooms where gas or oil is burnt
are some of the hardier kinds of Palms, the
green and variegated forms of Aspidistra, the
India-rubber Plant, and small-growing green
kinds of Draccena that will thrive in a green¬
house, such as D. congests, D. lineata, and
D. rubra. The Aspidistra may be increased by
division of its creeping underground stems
when growth is beginning. The Palms are
raised from seed, but their propagation is better
left to thoBe who raise them in large numbers.
Small plants beginning to Bhow their natural
habit can be kept in a healthy state in very
little pots by the use of manure water through
the summer season while the most active growth
is going on. Palms will grow in almost any
description of soil, but in rooms loam imparts
more substance to the foliage. Among Ferns
that will bear full exposure to the atmosphere
of a room may be mentioned Davallia canari-

Digitized by (jOO<^lG

ensis, Adiantum cuneatum, A. pubescens, Pteris
serrulata, and some of the crested forms of this
Fern, which attain a much larger size than the
type, and P. cretica and its variegated variety.
These, if regularly supplied with water and
allowed to make their growth in the rooms in
which they are to be kept, will produce fronds
of a hard, enduring character, that will last
much better than those that are grown in plant
houses and afterwards moved to the rooms.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

HARICOT BEANS AND THEIR CULTURE
IN FRANCE.

As is well known, Haricot Beans are largely
grown in France, whereas in this country they
are but little cultivated. The time is, however,
approaching when the merits of this vegetable
will be more generally recognised. Haricot
Beans are little known to our people, and of all
the vegetables now in cultivation this is the one
that should bo most largely used by them, as,
according to competent authorities, it contains
more nutritious properties than any other
vegetable with the exception of Lentils ; indeed,
it is so rich in this respect, that its free use
enables the labourer in many parts of Europe to
dispense with meat while undergoing severe
toil. A residence among the working classes
of Normandy taught me the value of the
Haricot; there it forms one of the main ingre¬
dients of the pot au fen , which is simply bread
and vegetables with but a flavouring of meat,
rendered digestible by several hours’ simmering.
A man who works hard in a quarry thirteen
hours a day finds this all-sufficient to keep up his
strength. Were Haricots largely used in this
country, their culture would open up a source
of revenue to cultivators in districts favourable
to their perfect growth, and land now almost
waste might thus be turned to profitable account.
Nearly all the Haricot Beans used in this
country are imported.

Varieties and uses.— There are two dis¬
tinct classes of Haricots—climbing Haricots, or
Haricots demanding stakes, and dwarf or
“ bushy ” Haricots. In each of these classes
are found varieties of which the pods are eatable
and tender until they are nearly ripe. Others
preserve this quality only so long as the pods
are young, and they are lined later on with a
parchmenty membrane. The produce of these
Beans has varied uses; sometimes the pods
are eaten fresh, or are preserved; at others,
they are eaten quite young, and the seeds
also are eaten when green or in a dry
condition. The following are representative
varieties of the different classes. Climbing kinds
—H. sabre h longue cosso (scimitar-shaped
long-podded), Princesse and its sub-varieties,
Pr6dome, having small, fine, thickly-seeded
pods, and Princesse sans fil; also Beurrtf and
H. d’Espagne. Amongst dwarf kinds we re¬
commend Predomo mange tout, Sabre early for
shredding, Flageolc de Hollande and itB sub-
varieties for the ripe, and for the young seeds
Noir de Belgique (black Belgian), and Jaune
longue hatif (long early yellow) to eat entire in
a young state. These, as well as the Haricot
Flageolet, may be shredded. The Soissons
blanc, Comtesse de Chambord, and Jaune de
Chine are useful for their ripe seeds.

Climbing varieties. —Towards the end of
the month of April a first sowing of the
Princesse and Sabre is made. A second sow¬
ing is made about the 15th of May, at which
time, the earth being sufficiently warm and
dry, germination easily takes place, and the
youDg plants can develop without check.
In the first days of June another sowing
of the Princesse or its sub-variety Pr<5dome
is made, and these are accorded tall stakes.
It is the practice to first set the sticks, after
having well worked the soil, and when this is of
a heavy nature it is as well to mix with it some¬
thing of a lighter 'character. The first sowing
is made on a slight ridge, and the seeds covered
bnt lightly; it is unnecessary to trouble about
the soil becoming very dry at the period of
germination and during the first stages of
growth. As soon as the plants have formed two
leaves the soil is well stirred around them, and
they are slightly moulded up, and where the

shoots have not attached themselves to the r
sticks they are tied to them. Haricots,
especially the climbing kinds, succeed in a l
general way best in a warm and sheltered «
situation. A rather light dry soil of a
loamy nature is better adapted to them
than rich retentive soils, the more especially
as in the latter the crop does not come to «
perfection so early. Haricots do not care for
fresh manure, although they require a uell-
stirred and fertile soil, especially rich in mineral
matter. Instead of making use of stakes,
growers may train the shoots to strings stretched
obliquely, and Haricots thus trained do better
than on stakes. The cost also is less, and their !
appearance more ornamental. In gathering
these Beans a few of the finest on the lower
portion of the plants should be left for seed.

Dwarf kinds. —A sowing of these may be
made in pots to come along under glass, the best
kinds being Flageolet d’Etampes, Noir de
Belgique, and Sabre hatif; or five seeds may bo
sown in a small pot in April, planted out
eventually under a wall in south exposure, and
sheltered with straw mats at night. A general
sowing is made about the beginning of May,
and followed by three successional sowings, ex¬
tending to the last week in June. Even so late
as July, Flageolet d’Etampes and Noir de
Belgique may be sown, as they will yield small
green pods before the beginning of autumn.
Those kinds which are to be employed in a
mature state, such as Suisse blanc, Jaune de
Chine, and de Soissons, ought to form part of
the first sowings. The Flageolet Noir de
Belgique, and especially the Pr^dome or Prin¬
cesse & fine cosse, should form part of the suc¬
cessional sowings. It is the Flageolet d’Etampes
which is most esteemed for shelling in a green
state, whilst the Noir de Belgique is best for
the young green pods. In sowing, drills are
drawn 2 inches deep and 1 foot apart for the
small growing kinds, such as Noir de Belgique,
Flageolet a feuilles gaufrees, and Jaune de Chine
and rather deeper and 15 inches apart for the
other kinds. If the grower has some fine &8hes
at command it isadvisable tocoverthe seeds with
them before filling up the drills. Afterwards they
will only need to be kept clean and have the soil
occasionally stirred around them. The kinds
grown for the ripe seeds should be gathered in fine
weather; after stripping off the foliage, tie
them in small bundles, and suspend them in a
dry, airy place. The Suisse blanc should
furnish the main supply. It is a precious
variety for field culture, as it naturally drops
its leaves, and all the pods ripen at the same
time. The Jaune de Chine and de Soissons are
not so productive, but more esteemed for the
quality of the seeds. When shelled out they
are carefully sorted and well dried, for the least
damp causes them to ferment and turn mouldy
in a few days when put into bags. It will bo
seen that the culture of Haricots in France does
not materially differ from that followed in the
case of Runner and Dwarf Beans in this country,
and that there is no difficulty in growing them ;
but it will be remarked that a large number of
varieties exist there, scarcely any of which are
known in England. Of these in any case we
should make a trial, as many of them are con¬
sidered much superior in flavour to our ordinary
Runners.

Mode of using Haricots. —There are two
ways of using Haricots, much favoured by the
French, viz., the quite tender, immature pods
cooked and eaten entire, and the young green
seeds taken when about half or three-parts
grown. These are the Haricots verts of the
Paris restaurants (in contradistinction to Hari¬
cots blancs —the ripe seeds), which many English
eat for the first time in France, and generally
pronounce to be a delicious vegetable. And
now, in conclusion, I would like to give a hint
or two on the cooking of Haricots. Pat them
in soak for a few hours, and then the outer
husk may be easily slipped off. Boil them
about two hours, and they will form, properly
seasoned, and with butter, a nutritious food.
By soaking them and boiling them thus long,
as well as by taking off the outer skin, their
flavour and digestibility will be much increased,
as they come to about the same condition as
mashed Potatoes. Many who have had no
liking for Haricot Beans cooked in the ordinary
way would like them, I think, in the manner
here recommended. J. ip.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jan. 24, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

603

GROWING LEEKS FOR EXHIBITION.

Thr Leek is one of our most wholesome vege¬
tables, and is deservedly held in high esteem,
coming in as it does when others are scarce. It
oaght to have a prominent place in every garden,
and the way to grow good ordinary Leeks will
be explained further on ; meantime, I will pro¬
ceed to describe in detail the most successful
method practised in the raising of the largest
Leeks for exhibition, which is the result of many
personal experiments and long practical expe¬
rience, combined with the experience of some of
the most eminent growers in different parts of
the country.

Soil. —The soil should be prepared a month or
too previous to being used by mixing two parts
tnrfy loam, one part old hotbed manure, and
one part leaf-mould. A little Amie’s manure,
bone meal, or guano ; any or all of them may
be added, but it must be very sparingly.
Artificial manureB are dangerous in the hands
of the inexperienced, but are very beneficial
when applied with caution. If leaf-mould can¬
not be had, use the old hotbed manure instead,
uid if you cannot get turfy loam, ordinary
garden soil will do ; in that ease more manure
and less soil will do, but try to get fresh soil.
Mole hills are very good for the purpose. Lot
all be well mixed and thrown up into ridges to
get pulverised and sweetened with the action of
frost and exposure to atmospheric influence.
The object in preparing it previous to using is
to allow time for the different gases composing
the manures to get incorporated with the soil,
so that they are freely given off whenever the
Leeks are planted. Particular care should be
taken not to use the soil when in a wet or sticky
state, either for potting or planting. It should
be in such a state that when squeezed in the
hand it will fall away on being touched.

Sowing and growing while under glass.—
The operation of sowing should be performed
about the first of February. They may also be
io wn in the middle of January, for early shows,
but there is a great risk of their running to seed
by the end of August then. Suppose you wish
to compete with twelve Leeks, you will require
to grow twenty-four, at least, to give you a good
chance. Proceed by filling 3£-inoh pots three
parts full, pressing gently down. Sow four or
aix seeds in the centre of each pot, covering
lightly. Plunge the pots in a hotbed or pro¬
pagating frame, or put on a shelf near the glass
ia a hothouse. As soon as they are up the size
of small darning needles, thin out, leaving only
one of the strongest in each pot; when large
enough fill up the pot with soil. While inside
they should not at any time be more than a foot
or 18 inches from the glass, so as to prevent them
getting drawn and becoming weak. After they
are growing strongly, say about the end of
March, & little weak liquid manure twice a week
will help them until they are planted out. About
the beginning or middle of April shift them into
pots a size larger, taking good care not
to break the balls or tlisturb the roots. This
is all the potting they need. During hot
sunshine give plenty of air by tilting the
sashes at the back. A week beforo planting
out the lights should be gradually taken off
altogether—at first during the day only, and
afterwards both day and night. Great care
should always be taken that they do not get
checked by too much heat or too much cold at
any time while under glass, as it tells seriously
against them, and tends to make them seed pre¬
maturely. The frames should be covered with
mats in frosty weather during the night.
Where it is not convenient to use pots, the next
beat things are boxes about 6 inches deep.
Drain them, and fill with soil 4 inches ; sow
the seed in patches 2 inches apart, and when
they come up thin them out so that they will
be left 2 inches apart each way. Fill up the box
»s they grow, and you will have 2 inches of
Manch at planting out time. Otherwise treat
;hem according to the directions already given.
Though they can be grown in boxes very success-
ally, those grown in pots as described have this
advantage, that they do not receive a check when
danted out. Leeksare checked fora considerable
ime by transplanting. Even when transplanted
oung into pots they have no chance with those
ow -n in pots. This I have learned from ex-
^riments, and herein lies part of the secret of
accoaafnl growing.

Preparing the bed and planting out.—A

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good deal of discretion must be used with regard
to the exact time of planting out, as so much
depends on the state of the weather, and the
part of the country. In England they may be
planted out two weeks earlier than in Scotland.
In the latter country those grown in pots may
be planted out about the third week of May, and
if the weather is frosty in the mornings a week
later is not too late. The preparation of the bod
or trench is the most important part of Leek
growing for exhibition, and very wide miscon¬
ception exists as to the proper method to pursue.
Some will fill up a trench a foot or more deep
with manure, and spread an inch of soil on the
top, plant their Leeks carefully, and wonder at
the end of the season why they have not grown.
It is all nonsense to suppose that in manuring
Leeks they cannot be overdone ; they are oftener
spoiled by too much than by too little.

Proceed then by digging out a trench at least
2 feet deep by 2 feet wide, and as long as
needed. A little wider and a little deeper is
an advantage, but this does very well. Let
them have a sheltered situation, well exposed to
the sun. If the subsoil is clayey and retains the
water, it must be drained. Fill up the trench
with fresh stable manure, taking care to spread
it equally all over, as in making up a hotbed.
If the manure is rough it will be the better for
a little tramping, but not too much, or it will
not heat well. If there is little straw among it
a gentle tramping at the finish is all it needs.
Spread 2 inches of old hotbed manure on the
top, which should be mixed with night soil,
soot, artificial and hen manures ; a little of all
of them makes a good mixture. The object of
spreading this composition on the top is to
afford strong feeding towards the middle
and end of the season, for by that time the
heat is mostly out of the manure below,
and this on the top makes the very best of
feeding. I wish it also to be distinctly under¬
stood that it is the heat from the fresh manure
below, and not the manure itself, that makes
them grow. It is not till near the end of the
season that the roots venture down in it. Next
spread the soil already referred to in tho form
of a ridge along the centre on the top of the
manure, about 9 inches deep and 16 or 18 inches
broad, and against this on each side bring up
some of the soil that was taken out of the
trench. Plant the Leeks along the centro,
about a foot apart, with the leaves across the
trench. Plant them so that the bottom of the
Leek will be about 4 or 5 inches above the
manure.

Blanching and watering. —They should be
blanched by earthing up every two weeks in the
fore part of the season ; the last earthing up
should not be later than about three weeks
before the show. Use only fresh, clean soil for
the purpose, and a little fine, white sand, where
it is procurable, next the plant; this gives them
a beautiful silvery-white appearance. Carefully
draw the leaves together during the operation,
and don’t let any soil get into the centre.
Earthing up with manure, as some do, is a
great mistake; it only makes soft, dirty
plants. Little more is now needed than to
give them a syringing overhead, or with a
watering-can through a rose, every morning in
dry weather. Also in dry weather give a copi¬
ous watering at the roots once a week with soft,
pure water. The composition of the soil and
the old manure mixture below it does away
with the necessity of manure-watering, and I
never practise it except when the soil is n ot
rich enough. More harm is often done by
manure-watering than good, as competitors, iu
their anxiety to make them grow, burn their
plants by too strong a dose. By putting the
matter into the soil at first there is less care,
less risk, and less trouble afterwards. This
applies to almost anything grown; but pot
plants generally, their roots being so confined,
oan be treated most successfully with manure-
water. Some, however, approve of manure¬
watering, and those who wish to try it would
require to insert tiles here and there leading
into the roots, as it is difficult for the water to
get down after they have been earthed up.

Exhibiting them.— In lifting and preparing
them for exhibition, discard any that are
“ Onion-headed,” strip the outside leaf off, so as
to leave the blanch clean and white, keep all fresh
leaves entire, as it helps their appearance consider¬
ably. In placing them on the exhibition table,
with a view to effect, a sloping piece of board

upon a box covered with clean paper tells in
their favour. In showing anything, always
arrange it tastefully ; it is often more than one
point gained, besides improving generally tho
appearance of the show. If the Leeks should
become soft by being lifted awhile, a short time
in water firms and freshens them up ; and if
they need to be carried a long distance, put wet
cloths round the roots.

Treatment op plants got from the nur¬
sery. —The large majority of amateurs have no
greenhouse or hot-bed frame in which to raise
them from seed, consequently they are dependent
on their nurserymen for plants at planting-out
time. They are in no way to be discouraged on
this account, as by careful management they
will succeed in growing them to great perfec¬
tion. I make a specialty of growing Leeks for
transplanting. They are hardened off about the
middle of April, and ready to send out. I gene¬
rally Bend them by post, carefully enclosed in tin
cases, and they arrive as fresh as when sent off.
When grown in boxes, or got from the nursery,
they should be planted out in April or beginning
of May, and protected during cold nights with
a covering of boards or cloth, until there is no
chance of their being checked with frost. The
reason for planting them out so much earlier
than potted plants is to get them well estab¬
lished, so that when mild weather comes they
rush away at once, and often make up on potted
plants. When newly planted they must be
shaded from the sun for a few days, till thoy
begin to take with the soil. With regard to
preparing the trench, planting, blanching, Ac.,
they are to be treated exactly as already de¬
scribed.

How to grow Leeks for ordinary use.—
Sow in February or March, on well manured
soil, on a dry day, in drills a foot apart, and
cover half-inch deep. As soon as they are up
keep them free of weeds until they are ready to
transplant, which should be in June or July.
The ground they are to be transplanted on
should have been dug deep or trenched and well
manured during the winter. Choose a dull day for
transplanting, when the soil is moderately dry
and smooth, Plant in lines a foot apart, and
6 inches between the plants ; make a hole with
a dibber about 5 inches deep, drop in the plant
and a little soil after it, just as much as covers
the roots. Run a little water in each hole, and
the operation is complete ; all that is needed
after is to keep them clear of weeds, and a good
crop will be the result.

Properties of an exhibition Leek. —First,
form ; second, length, thickness, and purity of
blanch; third, firmness. The shape of the
blanched part should be equal in thickness
throughout, and rounded. They are naturally
apt to thicken at the baso, but this is a fault.
The leaves should be broad and smooth, and
not corrugated. Tho length of the blanch should
be in proportion to the thickness. A specimen
G inches in circumference should be about 8
inches in length of blanch. One between 7 and
8 inches in circumference and 10 or 12 inches
blanched may be considered a magnificent speci¬
men. It is a strong point in their favour to
have them firm. A Leek otherwise good is in
danger of being discarded if soft. A good
specimen should weigh about three pouuds,
extra good ones a pound more, after dressing.
Any plant showing the seed stem coming up
the centre is of no use for competition.

General remarks. —The system I have
described may appear to be very expensive with
regard to manure, but it must be remembered
that the manure is not lost. After the Leeks
are lifted it can be taken out, and it is then in
splendid condition for potting and general use,
and is just what is needed to mix with the soil
the following year. A North Briton.

Brussels Sprouts.— In gardens both large
and small Brussels Sprouts are without ex¬
ception the very best winter vegetables that can
be grown. Not tho least valuable point con¬
nected with the Brussels Sprout is that it is as
hardy as the common curled Greens, these two
having, as a rule, withstood our severest
winters, when all Cabbage and Broccoli crops
have perished. The common Cabbage is hardy
enough in a young state, bat when full grown
and hearted frost soon destroys the large heads,
which rot and fall to pieces. Not so tho
Brussels Sprout; being small and hard, it is not

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

604

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 24, 1885.

in the least affected by frost. There are, how¬
ever, Sprouts and Sprouts. A fictitious value
is attached to what are called large kinds,
which, having been crossed with the common
Cabbage, produce heads something like Cole-
worts in size, and when sent into the kitchen
are not used as Sprouts at all, but os small
Cabbages. The real Sprout is not much larger
than a marble, and, as firm and hard almost as
the Btalk itself. This is the sort which cooks
prefer ; they strip off their outer covering, cook
them whole, and serve them up artistically in
that fashion. When cooked through, and no
more, such Sprouts melt in the mouth, like the
tenderest Cauliflower, and are equally good.
The imported Brussels Sprout is the typical
kind—tall-stemmed and productive ; but plants
vary a good deal, some producing a stem from
3 feet to 4 feet high, and clothed with Sprouts,
while on others they are open and rosette like,
and of no use. If seeds are saved from the best
forms for a few years a good variety will soon
get fixed. Of the productiveness of Brussels
Sprouts little need be said. They may be
planted a good deal closer in the ground than
Broccoli, and each plant will yield a dish of
Sprouts for several persons, and good stalks
much more.—J. S. W.

Mice v. Peas and Beans —Mice may be kept from
Peas ami Beans as follows: Chop up Whins (Gorse) in small
lengths, say an inoh, and put them on the top of the Peas
and Beans when sown, then cover all with the soil. If
Whins cannot be got, use Thorn or Gooseberry pruningB,
or Brambles chopped up in the saiue way. Red lead is often
used for the same purpose. As to traps the figure 4 Is as
good as any.—Y. B. W.

REPLIES.

12500.—Snow’s winter Broccoli.—
“ E. R. S.,” inquires where he can get the true
variety of this useful kind. Well, it would be
invidious to particularise any firm as supplying
such an old well-known kind a9 this. Let him
try some local seedsmen that have a reputation
for supplying genuine articles, and he will have
less cause to complain another year. At least
this is the verdict that I hear from a good
many that have tried the plan.—J. G.

12520 — Carrots and Turnips.— The two
pests—the Turnip fly and slugs—are real diffi¬
culties that gardeners have to encounter. 1
have had to deal with them for a quarter of a
century; and now use spent hops from the
breweries to destroy the fly, ana soot for the
slugs. As soon as the fly appears scatter the
spent hops amongst the plants. Apply the soot
at dusk when the slugs are out feeding. It
has to be applied about three times.—J. D. E.

POULTRY.

DOES POULTRY KEEPING PAY?

admit. But most persons have a hobby of some
sort or another. Some go in for botany, other *
for zoology, &c., while some go in for poultr y

having frequently^ teld th.t'poultry could I****'"* take “ " p l ? “° mo ' C

i_ 4 > u„ au _iL, , than would be given to ar

BESS.

QUESTION.

12601. — Cleaning beehives.— How Rhcull the
frames and sections of beehives bo cleaned after having
been used ? Is it necessary to w ash them with acid of any
kind ?—F. L.

REPLIES.

12507.— Hives. —For all practical purposes,
doubtless, the standard size hive is the best,
as frames should always be shallow in propor¬
tion to their length. Long, shallow frames are
more easily extracted from, because the comb
is finished much sooner than in deep frames.
The bees much more readily work in supers
placed over shallow frames. It will, therefore,
certainly be advisable for Fred Wilshaw to
alter his hives to standard size. However, he
had better not disturb his bees for that purpose
till quite the end of April.—S. S. G., Box worth.

12508. — Melting old comb. — “ South
Warwickshire ” should use a wax extractor, by
which the wax is freed from all impurities, and
is rendered of a beautiful colour. It consists
of a tin cylinder having a dish inside communi¬
cating with an outlet Bpout. The tin bottom
between the dish and the outer cylinder is per¬
forated to admit steam. The perforated tin
basket is filled with old comb ana placed in the
cylinder, the whole put over a pan containing
water and set over a fire. The steam of the
boiling water passes through the perforations
and melts the wax, which oozes through the
bottom of the basket into the dish, and out of
the outlet spout into a mould or other receptacle,
leaving the refuse in the basket. Wax extractors
of various styles can be obtained of the leading
hive manufacturers and dealers.—S. S. G. t Box
worth .

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not be kept at a profit by those who have not the
advantage of a run of Grass plot, or other places
for them, I determined to try the experiment. I
constructed a shed and run, in all about six
yards in length by a yard in breadth, with wire
front and partly wired top. On June 15th,
1S83, I commenced and bought my stock,
resolving to spare no pains to make everything
snug and warm, and to give them every atten¬
tion as regards cleanliness, fresh water, grits,
&c. Though it was rather late to begin, the
results far exceeded my anticipations. I beg to
show that poultry will pay if properly managed,
and hope the results of my experience may have
the effect of encouraging many to engage in
poultry keeping, which is a profitable under¬
taking, and, at the same time, an interesting
pastime. When we consider that England
imports annually no less than seven hundred
and fifty million eggs, at a rough value of two
million four hundred thousand pounds, this fact
alone should urge us to make an effort to retain
part of that money in this country.

I have taken the following from my diary of
profit and loss.

From June 15th, 18S3, to June 15th, 1S81.

£ s. d.

House, run, <fcc. 0 12 3

Cost of fowls. 2 2 4

Coat of food . 2 18 9

Total . 6 13 4

From sale of fowls and chickens. 1 16 11

5S3 eggs sold at l}d. and 2d. each. 4 1 10}

20 chickens hatched at6d. each. 0 10 0

Present stock of adult fowls. 0 17 0

House, ran, &c. 0 12 3

7 17 6}

The above shows a balance on the right side
of £2 4s. 2£d., and proves conclusively that
poultry can be made to pay where proper care
and attention are given to them, and to cost
very little for corn, &o. ; for in many a house¬
hold there are scraps and refuse upon which a
few fowls can be mainly kept. Many persons
are under the impression that, to keep fowls
advantageously, a Grass run, and liberty to roam
about anywhere are required, as on a farm, &c. ;
but I beg to submit that, though poultry may
pay well on a farm, at the same time they will
undoubtedly do well in confinement, and will
repay any trouble expended on them.

When I commenced I bought three hens,
which soon began to lay, and about a month
after I added two more cross-breeds and light
Brahmas, and gradually increased my stock till
I had twelve hens and a Dorking cockerel.

Three weeks after, finding the extra ones did
not come up to my expectations, I sold them to
advantage, and have since been buying pullets
and selling off the old ones, and, as an oppor¬
tunity occurred of a few going cheap, 1 pro¬
cured them also, some to kill and others for
stock. Five chickens hatched last October all
turned out to be roosters, much to my dis¬
gust, and when killed they realised 10s. 3d.
All that is needed to make fowls profitable is to
obtain a little knowledge as to the various
breeds which are most suitable for confinement
and for egg production, and also for table pur¬
poses. This, after a little practice, is soon
picked up.

I give my fowls the regular poultry mixture,
which costs five shillings per bushel. I find
they do as well on that as on anything I have
tried. I give them in the morning pollard
mixed with Potato parings and scraps boiled up
together, with a good feed of green food, such
as Chick weed, Grass, or Cabbage leaves.

The midday meal consists of soaked bread
and scraps. In the evening I give them the
poultry mixture, with, occasionally, crushed
oyster shells and lime.

1 have now kept fowls for a twelvemonth by
way of experiment, to ascertain if they could
be made to pay for themselves, and the result
is the above balance. Thus any cottager could
keep his rooster and three hens, and find, if he
kept an account of outlay and profit, a good
balance over, which would amply repay him
for his trouble. In glancing at the above
figures some may be disposed to say, ** How
about the time and labour bestowed ? which, of
course, should be taken into account.” This I

given to any other object.

I trust some may profit by these few Yfemarks,
and that others may try the experiment for
themselves, for, to use the ancient maxim,
Nothing venture, nothing gain.”

Nil DEsrERANDUM.

QUESTION.

12602.— Disease In fowls.— Latelr feve*al of my fowls
have died, and I should be very glad if you could give me
any information as to the cause of their death. Whon
first attacked they mope about with their feathers very
much ruffled, and seem scarcely able to move, their combs
being very pale. They feed well but lose flesh fast, and
when they die their bones are nearly through their Rkins
We opened one, and found the liver quite rotten and full of
ill white lumps They have an unlimited Grace run ;
their food is Barley mixed with Maize, kitchen scrape, and
sometimes a little meal.— A Constant Rkadkr.

REPLIES.

12559.— Fowls and Privet berries.—
In the spring of 1SS3 I lost a great many young
chickens, and from certain signs that I observed
it occurred to me that they had been eating
Privet berries, which had been freely produced
the previous autumn on a hedge at one side of
the run, and were then (at the time when the
young chicks were hatched) falling to the
ground. In consequence of my suspicions I had
all the Privet berries gathered, and lost no more
chickens. Of course I have not allowed any
berries on that hedge to ripen since.—F. W.,
Norwood,

12510.— Disease of poultry.— The great
loss of which your correspondent complains is
evidently caused by his erroneous way of feed
ing his chickens, especially the sloppy nature of
the food he gives them. It would be very
hurtful to poultry of any age, and chickens,
from their tender age, suffer more than older
fowls would do. A little warm milk direct
from the cow may be given occasionally, water
being always at hand ; bat milk ought not to be
a regular part of their daily food. Bread soaked
in ale must be very hurtful to chickens, I should
think. I have read of it being given to old fowls
in very cold weather, when they were feeble,
but 1 have never used it, although 1 havereared
poultry largely and successfully for thirty years.
Bone meal, even occasionally, I consider very
unnatural food for poultry, though I have seen
it recommended. Hard boiled eggs I consider
very unnecessary for chickens, except perh&p
for some sickly one daring the first week after
hatching. Let your correspondent adopt a
natural way of feeding his chickens, and all w; 11
go well with them. Let him give them oatme al
mixed with water, but as dry as possible, and
dry oats in small quantities as soon as they can
eat it, which they will do when ten days old.
With oatmeal as his chief and almost sole fond
he will rear the finest poultry that one can wish,
as I have done with Dorkings. It is expensi ve,
but I have found nothing so good. I give no
green food, as my fowls have perfect liberty to
ran in the fields. I consider chives too stimu
lating for chickens.—A. G., Aberdeen,

12609.— Fowls shedding feathers.—I am inclined
to think that this diseased condition of the fowls may
arise from want of water and from limo, if it is not very
old lime taken from an old building.— A. G.

The Gladwin.—Messrs. Ball and Co , Northampton
send us a few seedling spikes of the Gladwin (Iri
fcDtldissima) figured in Gardening some time ago.

The climate of the Isle of Wight.—A f
an instance to prove the desirability, as advised
lately in Gardening, of correspondents stating
the locality in which their experience is
gained, may I state the following facta which I
noticed to-day (January 9th) in our garden ?
The Geraniums, Lobelias, and Petunias in the
open ground are not cut off by the frost,
the Petunias and Lobelias looking as fresh as
ever. The Geraniums left out the winter before
are almost without a single exception still alive.
There is a Heliotrope still alive in a border oa '
the east side of the house, where it is very dry. [
It remained out in the same place all last winter, ,
and it is well known that the Heliotrope is one i
of the first of the plants, that are not hardy, to
succumb to frost. We are situated in the north «
part of the isle and with a north east aspect. ]
The subsoil is a stiff clay.—L. G. K.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT •

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

I

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

JANUARY 31, 1885.

No. 308.

QUESTIONS.

Rules for Correspondents.— All communication*

I fc* insertion should he clearly and concisely written on one
nJeof the j taper only, and addresseil to the Editor of Gardkn-
»c,S7. Southavifdun, Street, Covent Garden, London, letters
enbudness should be sent to the Publisher. The name and
sddrest of the snuler is required in addition to any designa¬
te* he may desire to be used in the paper. IVhen more than
"*t query is sent each should be on a separate piece of
japer. Answers should always bear the number placed against
U* q*ery replied to, and our readers will greatly oblige us by
so far as their knowledge and observations permit,
dt correspondents who seek assistance. Conditions, soils,
and neons vary so infinitely that several answers to the same
question may often be very useful, and those who reply would
i) mil to mention the localities in which their ex/terience is
Correspondents who refer to articles inserted in
Gardening shouLl mention the number in which they
' Appeared.

All answers, with the exception of such as cannot well be
dnuified, will be found in the different departments,
yuries not answered should be repeated.

Naming 1 plants or fruit. —Four plants, fruits, or
funeert only can be named at one time, and this only
«*<» good specimens are sent We do not undertake to
urn* varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
wmu should ahoays accompany the parcel. Correspondents
vho wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
specimens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12305.— Asters. —Cui any reader tell me the beat
Aster to grow tor show purposes? - As Amateur.

12606.— Ten-week Stocks.— Can any reader inform
me which is the best of the ten-week Stock for show
purposes? I want a good spike.— Am Amateur,

12607.—Raising Zinnias for borders —What is
the best plan for raising Zinnias to turn out in borders as
Krong plants?— Subscriber.

12 m—Carnations and Plcoteea.— Please state
rotue of the best varieties of border j tllow ground Carna¬
tions and Picotces?—W. T. H

12609 —Eupatorlum odoratisslmum — Is this
plant of any use to make a little show during December
and January in a town conservatory. k<pt at between
40dega and 45 degs. during winter ?— Urbs.

12310—Mealy bug on vines.— Will some kind
reader inform me whether paraffin would kill the bug, and
not injure the vines while they are at rest, if I were to
paint them well over with it?—D erby.

12611.—Good Indoor climbers — I wont the name of
s plant with plenty of f di*gc which will thrive indoors.
Would a Tropeeolum or Clematis suit, as it Is to be trained
over vine?— Eveleen Constants.

12612— Seeds of Preesla.—I should feel greatly
obliged if anyone could tell me where I could buy seed of
the Freesia refracta alba ? I rind bulbs only advertised.—
C. E. S.

12813.— Concrete edgings.— In your paper of
Jan. 10th, ,: C C.” recommends concrete edgings. Would
“ C. C.”give the quantities of Portland cement and sand
to be mixed ?—W. E. W.

12614.— Orchids from seed —Could anyone give me
any information about raising the above from seed, as I
have a good many of them bearing seed, and some ready
to sow ?—J. B. B., Dunbar.

12315 —Plants for greenhouse culture.— Would
any reader of Gardening be kind enough to give me a list
of plants suitable for greenhouse culture without heat ?

T. C., Junior, Urmslon , near Manchester.

.. 12 618-—Transplanting Sweet Williams, An-
“tTnmums, and Auriculas.— Can I transplant now
"idling Sweet Williams, Antirrhinums, and Auriculas?
They have been in uncovtrtd boxes out-of-doors since the
summer.—L. L.

12617.— Primula Sleboldi.— Can Mr. C. Sonntag, or
wy reader, tell me whether Primula Sieboldi can be grown
in an unheated conservatory facing west; also half-a-dozen
different varieties in white, red, and pink?— Anemone.

-Grafts of Apples and Pears.— Wonld you
Kindly inform me, through the columns of your paper,
whether nurserymen supply grafts or scions of Apples and
^ears, and, if so, what about how much would each graft
cost of established varieties? James Marsti.

12819 —BlueChrysanthemum. -Did any reader of
Wardexino ever see a blue Chrysanthemum ? At school,
moTe thin thirty years ago, I believe there was one in the
greenhouse. I have neither seen nor heard of one since.
—Alepii.

128M - Anemonos for London suburbs —
«ouid any reader t«ll us what kinds of Anemone can be
got to live In the suburbs of London, such as Hackney ?
J 8 it of any use procuiing plants of A. sylvestris and
jAponica alba? I should say that tubers of A. coronaria
ao not succeed here after the first year.— Urbs.

12621.— G era niums for winter flowering.— Will
some reader select from the following list of Geraniums
eight that are best suited for winter flowering?—Ferdinand
6e LeaseMr. Moore. Eurydice, Cbas. Darwin, Madame
«*>n Delloy, Ceres, Louis Piquet, Colonel 8oely, Dr.
wton, Mrs. Turner, General Farre, Captain Holden (irn-
5™**). Guinea, Mrs. Stacey, F. V: Respall, Celia, Prima
^nna, Mrs. Leavers, Evening Staf-Iv " *

gle

12622.— Globe-shaped Onion.—1 should be glad of
the advice of some good Onion grower as to the best globe-
thaped Onion for spring sowing, as to quality, growth,
size, and colour. I shall grow them with a view to ex¬
hibiting at our local show as well os for home u»e. They
will not be required to keep long —H. S., Horningsca.

12623.—Celery, Cabbage, and Broccoli.—WU1
any reader plea e tell mo the best sort of Celery (red does
better than white here) for my garden, and tho time to sow
and to pUnt out early winter Cabbage and purple winter
Broccoli for spring use ? The ground is a stiff clay in the
north of London.— Fern da lb, Tottenham.

12624.— Rhododendron shrubs.— Will any reader
of Gardining tell me tho proper time to graft common
Rhododendrons, and state the name of Bix of the best
distinct colours? I wish to graft some Rhododendron
ponticuin with hybrids.— Riiododbndron. [»Ve think
amateurs bad better purchase plants from a good nursery¬
man than engage in this work themselves.—E d.]

12625.— Pansies .—Will any reader of Gardbnino who
is we 1 acquainted with Scotch fancy and Belgium fancy
Pansies give me the following information ? 1. The names
of a dozen of the best Scotch fancy Pansies for exhibition
purposes. 2. Would the Belgian fancy Pansies be allowed i
to compete against the Scotch fancy, or, if disqualified,
upon what ground? 3. What is the best soil to grow
Pansies in, and the best manure for them ?— An Amateur.

12626.— Plants for greenhouse.— Would “ One
Who Loves Flowers,” who answered query No. 12499 in
this week’s Gardbnino Illustrated, kindly inform me
if it would be profitable to jpow satisfactorily the plants
he names in a small house wit out any artificial heat, and,
if not, what heat it would be necessary to maintain to
preserve such plants in this rather cold district, Wolver¬
hampton ? -Delambrb.

12627 —Building greenhouse.—I am about to
build a small greenhouse, and 1 should be glad if anyone
could give me any information as to the height of back and
front. I intend the house to be 9 feet long and 7 feet wide,
or I may make it 12 feet long and 7 feet wide, a lean to. 1
should like to know tho best and cheapest mode of heating
the house ? I intend during the winter to keep Geraniums,
Hyacinths, and Tulips, and in summer to grow Cucumbers.
—An Amateur.

12628.—Treatment of clustering Roses —I
shall be much obliged i you, or any of your readers, will
advise me how to treat a dense mass of evergreen
clustering Roses growing up the posts of a ve land ah round
my hou e, and apparently left by my predecessor to grow
pretty much as they liked. They have bocome incon¬
veniently bulky, though abounding in blossom all the
summer. I waut to bring them into Borne sort of control,
but without injuring their blooming power.— C. H. Cope.

12629.—Primulas and Fuchsias In a conserva¬
tory.— Can you inform me why these plants droop in a
conservatory heated by hot-water pipes from a gas stovo
outside, where the temperature seldom i xceeds DO degs. ?
They are watered two or three times a week, and have
plenty of ventilation during the day. They were pur¬
chased from a florist a month or two ago, and the leaves
of one plant have died. Is it from the want of having the
floor very moist?—C. W. C.

126.30— Rose for greenhouse wall.— "Country
Rector” will be glad to know what Roses or other flower¬
ing creeper will grow freely on the outside wall of a
greenhouse (hack). It faces the rectory windows at a
distance of 93 feet, the space between being a sloping
lawn. The wall to be covered is 20 feet long, faces north,
but is in a warm part of Somersetshire, and is well pro¬
tected. Also, what flowers would look most effective in
succession in a border bod close up to the greenhouse
wall at that distance from the rectory?

12631.—Pansy growing.— In your issue of Garden¬
ing of Nov. 8th, Mr. Sweet, in his "Notes on Flower
Shows in Glasgow,” states that a dressing of nitrate of
soda to the beds secures the safety of Pansies as nearly as
possible. As I have lost a good number of ray favourites
these last two years, I should be glad to arrive at some
means of securing their safety. Would Mr. Sweet, or any
of your correspondents, kindly state w hat is the proper
quantity to uae per yard, and for wbat purpose it is ap¬
plied ?-X Y.

12632.— Training Grape Vine.— Could you give me
a little information as to the w'ay in which I should start
to train a Black Hamburgh Grape Vine? My greenhouse
is 8 feet long and 5 feet wide, 7 feet high at back, and 5 feet
in front, built to a brick wall, with the sun on all day.
The vine is about three years old. Do you think it would
be best to place it at the bottom of the wall, train it np to
roof, and bring it down to the front, or should I place it
outside the greenhouse, and work it through the front
along the roof to the back ? Could you give me a better
idea about it? What date should I fresh pot it (it is in a
12-inch pot now), what sized pot would be best to uso, and
what pottiDg stuff should I have?— Amateur

12638.— Kitchen garden— I have a small kitchen
garden sufficient to grow all the vegetables I want, except
Potatoes, and I want you to advise me as to tho best sorts
to grow, as I have lost several crops, not knowing the
proper time to plant and the right sorts for my situation.
The ground is a at ff clay, north side of London. It was
an old pasture before the builders got possessi n of it, but
I have all the original soil, and it has been further made
up by dressings of lima and stable manure. Gardenere’
aav ce, I find, is not to be relied upon, as they agree to do
everything proposed, whether right or wrong, and if they
have any plants of their own growing, do not scruple to
recommend the most unsuitable things. Please give me
advice on the following : The best Borts of Peas for early

medium and late sowing, and the proper time to plant
each; the hest sort of Cauliflower, to come in when tho
Peas are over, time to sow and plant out; tho best sort of
Brussels Sprouts, time to sow aud to plant out?— Fern-
dalb, Tottenham.

12634.—Rabbits dying.— In November a dot* had
seven young ones, and in three days they were all dead.
She was said to be a good mother, but I thought it best to
fat her. Now another doe, which 1 know to be a good
one, has done the same. On Thursday she had a litter of
twelve, and on Sunday they were dead. The above were
not first litters. I understand rabbits, and, although I
have bought dozens just weaned, have not lost one. My
does are in hutches in a stable, but door and window have
been open all day. Is it the cold, or would green food
(Cabbage, &c., properly dried) at this time of year make
the milk acid ? I only give it sparingly with plenty of old
hay, oats, barley, and bran. My rabbits were not dis¬
turbed.— HIGH FIELD.

The following queries are briefly answered by
the Editor, but readers arc invited to give f urther
answers should llinj be able to offer additional
advice on the various subjects.

12635 —Celery for exhibition.—Will any of your
readers tell me the best sort of Celery for exhibition ?—
Reader.

[Leicester Red or Clarke’s Red —Ed ]

12636. — Rhododendrons and leaf-mould.—
Would anyone tell me if evergreens, such as Rhododendron
leaves, will make leaf-mould in the usual way ? - J. T B.

[No.—E d ]

12637.— Stopping growth of India Rubber
Plant. — I should be much oblietd if you could inform me
how best to stop the further gr wth of an India Rubber
Plant (Ficus elastlca) ?—Ficus.

[Finch the top off.— Ed.]

12838. — Ivy-leaf Pelargoniums for green¬
house.—Would an Ivy leal Pelargonium bo suitable for
growing in a lean-to greenhouse on the back wall?—
W. T. H.

[/? would do excellently, if not shaded too much. —Ed.]

12639.— Liquorice plant.—Where can this be ob¬
tained?^. S

[It is not, as a rule, kept in nurseries, but may he obtained
from Botanic Gardens. Frobahly a nurseryman would procure
it for you —Ed ]

12640.—Propagation of ornamental e-hrubs —
Can you or any of your readers tell me where I can get a
small work upon the propagation of various kinds of orna-
m ntal shrults?— East Suffolk.

[The best we know is Iialtet’s “Art of Grafting " Yon
will get a good many particulars from Loudon’s *■ Eneyrlo-
pa’dia."- Ed 1

12641 — Wash for fruit trees —Having a long wall
facing south, with Peach, Apricot, Plums, and other trees,
what wash can I apply by engine to destroy inserts cn
trees and crevices of ihe wall ? i^uery, paraffin or Tobacco
water-which would you suggest ?— Subscriber, Scotland.

[A weak solution of paraffin is best ; it should be applied
in winter before the leaves appear.— Ed j

12642.—Cactus Dahlias.—I purchased two plants f f
th< se last season - Juan zi (scarlet) and Constance (white).
The white one flowered, and I did not see my difference in
the flower from an ordinary white double Dahlia—A. O.

[There is i tally only one Cactus Dahlia—Ju art zi. The
white is quite a different thing, and not of mtuh use. The
true Cactus Dahlia is bright scarl t in cclonr.— Ed.)

12643.—Finest Carnations —Would Discs do well in
a bed of border Carnations and Pinks, and if so what would
be the best variety?—W. T. H.

[Perfectly well; put the Irises in a group in the middle.
Consult Burr's (King Street, Covent Garden) “ Catalogue of
Irises," where there is quite an embarrassment of riches in
this respect.—E d ]

12644. — Ferns for a cool greenhouse. — Are
Adiantum farleyense, formosum, cuneatuin, and cillatum
suitable Ferns for a cool greenhouse ? I may fay it faces
south, and is very warm in summer time.—C. J., Southsea.

[There is no difficulty in having them in summer, but
during winter the house trill be too cold. During the winter
you could keep none of them except cuneatum.— Ed.]

12645.-Striking cuttings.—Can any reader of
Gardbnino tell me how to urike cuttings of Plums.
Cherr es, and Grapes ? Which is best, budding or grafting ?
and which is the best time?-T. Nicholas, Cambridge.

[Grapes are commonly raised Jrom eyes or cuttings, but
vol so Plums, Cherries, dtc.. Grafting is done in spring,
excqit in the case of Grapes, when it takes place in winter
in heat —Ed ]

12646.—Celeriac.— Can you give me any informs-
tion about a new form of vegetable—Celeriac? I first
bought some at the Auxiliary of the Army and Navy Stores.
They seem the roots of Celery plants, and are treated as
Jerusalem Artichokes—very nice. The store man told me
they came from Germany.—A. II.

[/t is also known as Turnip-rooted Celery, and any seeds¬
man will supply you with the seed. —Ed )

12647.— Hyacinths in water—Could any reader
inform me if the water in the bottles should be changed
at all ? I started some early in December, they grew rapidly
at first, then the points of the roots turned brown, and they
have grown but little since.—G, R

[Change every fortnight or so without damaging the roots.

A piece of churi'oaL-wCl keep the water in good condition for

alo^eriiliM-RtiElKjn I Ur ILLlfNUIb A I

URBANA-CHAMPAiGN

GOG

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 31 , 1885 .

12648.—Llllum Scilla and Narcissus.—I have
Just bought in a sale a quantity of Lilium pomponium,
Scilla peruviana alba, and mixed Narcissus, and should
be glad to know best time to plant, depth, distance apart,
and situation ?—R. D. O., Swansea.

[Any ordinary garden border will do for these, and the
best time to plant is as soon as possible in open weather.
Plant about 0 inches deep and 9 or 10 inches apart .—Ed.]

126*9.—Cypripedium spectablle.—I have a dozen
lants and shall be glad of information how to grow them,
have an unheated greenhouse.—W. U., Hornsey.

‘ [Put them in a moist rich border in the open air on peat
ami leaf-mould, or in a moist, boggy spot in good soil. They
also do in }>ots in moist soil of the same character, but not
quite so well as oul-of-doors. We have seen them grown
admirably in the shade of a north wall.— Ed.]

12050 — Tiger Lilies.— I have four Tiger Lilies, two
single and two double, and should be obliged for informa¬
tion as to time to pot them, their treatment, and soil until
they flower.— A Weekly Reader ok Gardening.

[Pm* them at once in pots, leaving plenty of room for the
soil, which should consist of turfy loam, a little peat, and
sa/ul. Do not water until the leaves appear, aiul then keep
watered until the plants flower. When the leaves begin to
decay gradually withhold water .— Ed.]

12051.— Water Melons in pit.— Would you or one
of your readers kindly give full instructions for the best
way of cultivating Water Melons in a pit ? Also state what
is the best kind, and where can the seed be obtained ?—
B. N. C., Worcester.

[ Water Melons we have never seen grown anything like well
in England yet. In the hot fields of America and in the
south of Europe they are easily grown as a field plant, but
we should certainly advise you not to attempt their culture
h-*re. Have any of our readers ever seen a really good Water
Melon grown in the United Kingdom t— Ed.]

12052— .Cuttings. —I have some cuttings (Rose,
Ampelopsis Veitchli, &c.,) under some bell glasses. They
are on a south border and not in a damp position. On
looking at them recently I And that they are mouldy.
During the frost for a week or two I threw Fern leaves
over them as a protection and did not remove them during
the day. Will this account for it ? If not can you suggest
the cause and preventive? I was successful last year
with a number in much the same position.—R. T. R.

[This will account for it. You should not keep a covering
over the bell glasses, except when needed, and during dry
weather they should be lilted to admit a little air.— Ed.]
12053.— Canker weed.— Some of our Sussex pastures
produce the effect on butter described in a work entitled,
Failure and Fortunein Farming," giving a hot, nasty taste.
The writer of this manual asserts that by exterminating the
Ben or Canker weed she has entirely conquered this. I
cannot meet with the name in any botanical work, nor is
it known to anyone here. If any of your readers can givo
information on th»* subject they will greatly benefit dairy
farmers.— Ann E. Bean well.

[The plant you name is a very common and rather showy
yellow weed that is sometimes called Ragwort, and has a
variety of oilier names. The botanical name is Scnecio
Jucobica .— Ed.]

UNANSWERED QUERIES.

12405.—Ungainly Yews.—I moved so no old Yew
bushes to form a hedge two years ago, and attended to
them properly in respect of soil and manure. They arc
alive, but their branches are long and ungainly, and the
new growth is chiefly on them, whereas I want it to come
from the stem, so as to allow me to cut away the branches
and trim the bushes into proper hedge shape. Will it be
safe to cut them away and trust to the main stems shoot¬
ing, and if so, at what time of year should it be done?—
Mrs. G. Wedgwood.

12431.—Carpet bedding.—I shall be glad if any
reader of Gardening will givo me the name of about a
dozen kinds of plants for carpet work, and also inform me
whether I can raise them from seed, or shall have to get
them in plants ? Also whether hardy or not ?—C vrpbt.

12482.—St. David’s Leek.— Would "j. M.,” who
writes on " Vegetables Worth Growing,” inform me where
I could get Look seed of the variety St. David, true?-
Exall.

THE COMING- WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

Begonias. — A portion of the stock of
tuberous-rooted Begonias may now be started
by being placed in a house where they can have
an intermediate temperature. These plants
will succeed in either a hot or greenhouse ; still,
if grown too warm they make weak growth, and
produce few flowers, and the plants, in addition,
have an indifferent appearance. They may be
shaken out of the old soil and at once potted in
new. Such as are now started in heat will
be found useful to precede the latter portion
that will come on with greenhouse treatment.
They do best with moderately light soil, fairly
enriched with manure and a little leaf-mould.

Old Fuchsias that have been dried off in the
autumn should be pruned, the branches cut well
in, and the plants reduced in height. They may
then be placed in heat, and, as soon as they have
pushed half an inch of growth, be shaken out and
repotted. Soil should be placed where it will
receive plenty of air ; lay it as open as possible
for this purpose, and occasionally turn it over.
Sand also should be dried.

Caladiums. —Although a few specimens of
these are suitable for use in large houses, small
examples, consisting of a single crown each, are
generally preferable. Where large old plants
are available they may be divided, and a portion
of root retained to each piece. They must im¬
mediately be started in a brisk heat, and should
not be placed in soil that is over moist, or they
will be liable to decay. The small growing C.
argyrites, if kept close to the glass, where it
will get plenty of light with a moderate amount
of air so as to secure stout growth, is one of the
most useful stove plants in cultivation, for it
will flourish in a lower temperature along with
flowering subjects for some weeks when the
weather gets warmer, aud the leaves are avail¬
able for cutting to use in bouquets.

Tree or Perpetual Carnations. —These
are easily cultivated, and produce quantities of
flowers for cutting. In order to have good
flowering plants in autumn and winter, select
the strongest wood for cuttings, and insert from
five to six cuttings round the edge of a 3i-inch
pot. Plant moderately firm, and place in a
bottom-heat of about 75 degs. In making the
cutting or piping, the two lower leaves should
be thoroughly peeled off the wood, leaving
nothing but clear soft wood below the joint;
then with a sharp knife cut close up to the
joint. The best soil in which to strike such
cuttings is loam and leaf-mould, with plenty of
sand. As soon as they are well-rooted, pot
them off in 3-inch pots in good loam, free from
wireworm, and well mixed with plenty of sand.
Place them in a frame on a slight bottom-heat
until again established, and keep them close to
the glass.

Flower Garden.

12463.— Jensen’s Potato culture.— in Mr. Hob¬
day s admirable article on Potatoes he mentions the
Jensen system of culture, without, however, more than a
hint of it3 being one adapted to wet soils. Would he give
some details ? The Champion is deteriorating. Minehad
this year a lot of disease ; but what is to take its place ?—
Market Grower.

12465.— Unhealthy Holly tree.-Will some of your
readers givo me advice as to the treatment of a Holly tree,
which seems in a somewhat unheali hy state ? It is a large
tree, the trunk being 8 feet high before the branches begin,
and 3 feet from the ground, the trunk is nearly 7 feet in
circumference. The tree must be seventy years old. The
leaves are now very- scanty, and only grow near the
extremity of the branches, and it has not had berries for
sometime It grows on Grass in a part of the garden
which was formeriy an orchard. It has been proposed to
pollard it, but before doing so I am anxious to hear of any
other treatment thought to be more advantageous.— Celt.

12460.—Small glass fernery.— Would one of your
readers give me a few hints on making a small glass femerv
with a self-acting fountain in it? Could I obtain a book
W h II j Ct ? ' Vhat F ' rns w <>uld be most suitable ?—

12542.— Seaweed as manure.— I have
found Seaweed very beneficial, laid on Aspara¬
gus beds in the autumn, and cleaned off in
spring before the Asparagus shoots into growth.
It is also one of the very finest things for Celery.
Take a small scud of Seaweed and wind around
the Celery, every stick, just before earthing-
up, beginning at the bottom and winding up as
high, or rather higher, than you put the earth.
It keeps out all dirt and many slugs and worms
and the Celery comes up clean, with a beautiful
colour and a much better flavour.—j ^ast Suffolk.

Digitized by 1 Q

i, with a be
ir .—East ,

gle

The planting of hardy herbaceous perennial
plants may be proceeded with. There are now
so many really valuable hardy herbaceous and
Alpine plants well suited to the purpose, that
many of the tall coarse-growing specieB may with
advantage be discarded. A somewhat liberal
use may be made with safety of the Delphinium,
Dianthus, Alyosotis, Pentstemon, Iris, and
Phlox.

The seeds of various kinds of plants used for
sub-tropical gardening should be sown now, in
order that they may be had sufficiently strong
when the time arrives for planting them out.
Sow in heat in seed-pans, pot the plants off
singly as soon as they are large enough to
handle, and grow on as rapidly as possible.
They may consist of the various Castor-oil
plants, Tobaccos, and Solannm Warscewiczi,
while dry roots of the Cannas, Brugmausias,
&c., should be at once placed in heat with a
view to increase by cuttings or divisions. Spring
flowering plants and bulbs will soon begin to
attract attention.

Turn and regravel walks to get them well
consolidated by frequent rolling whilst the
ground is still wet. Verge cutting and levelling
of tnrf are important works that should be
completed as early as possible; as Bhould also
new edgings of Box or repairs to the same.
Where the turf would be in bad taste, or
troublesome, Sedum glaucum makes an excellent
boundary line for walks in rockeries aud

ferneries, and when planted virtually requires
no attention, except to be kept free from weeds.

Shrubbery.

Pruning. —Much of the rough work con¬
nected with alterations, and all planting of trees
and shrubs, will be finished now, or as early as
practicable. The next most pressing work will
be hedge clipping or shrub pruning. All
hedges, lines, belts, and screens of Privet,
Beech, Holly, Yew, &c., must, to be kept thick,
be cut annually, and the work can safely be
done now no matter what the weather is. In
the majority of gardens shrub pruning is but a
secondary consideration, and in some never at¬
tempted at all; consequently Hollies, Laurels,
Bay, and all similar habited shrubs soon get
naked stemmed, a condition that can only be
effectually prevented by the timely cutting back
of the leading shoots. This operation conduces
to lateral extension of growth, and keeps the
plants equably furnished with shoots. Trees
never look handsomer than in their natural
forms, and the only aid here advocated is the
restriction of the stronger branchlets so as to
aid the weaker. Many kinds of trees, Conifers
in particular, by the pinching out of the point
of a strong shoot or shoots, as the case may be,
can be made to grow of even proportions
throughout. Of course these remarks refer
more particularly to young trees ; to influence
or direct the growth of old-established Conifers
is obviously out of the question.

Fruit.

Orchard House. —If Peach and Nectarine
trees standing out doors have got forward
during the mild weather they will be unfit for
exposure to frost, and steps of some kind should
be taken for getting them under glass. When
all the trees are under glass keep them well
supplied with water, as dryness at the root after
this date is sure to settle the crop. Also look
to trees established in inside borders, mnlch
well, and give them repeated waterings.

Vegetables.

During the week quarters left vacant by
Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, and early Broccoli
have been dug and manured, and we have been
engaged in salting and lining vacant Celery
quarters, in order to get rid of slugs. This
land we intend for Spring Onions. We plant
Tripoli Onions from seed beds into rich land,
and at this season we put in a large breadth of
small Onions for very early use. We are like¬
wise planting early Cauliflowers out of seed¬
beds in cold pits into three-light boxes, in
order to make them stocky and strong for
planting out in April aud May. Small sowings
of Lettuce and Cauliflower may be made at
once. Radishes now up should be aired regu¬
larly and thinned timely, so that they may grow
with little top and good bulbs.

Peas started in gentle heat under glass
should not be allowed to draw up weakly ; but,
when about Vinch high, should be removed to a
cold frame. In sowing Peas on a narrow
border, draw the drills parallel with the wall or
fence, or run them obliquely across, so that the
rows may range from south-east to north-west,
in which aspect they will get the full benefit of
the sun. Even early Peas should have plenty
of room, at least 4 feet from row to row, and
two rows of Brown Cos Lettuce should be put in
between each two rows of Peas. Autumn-sown
Peas that are now up should have a ridge of
earth drawn up on each 9ide of them, and they
should have sticks placed to them to form a
protection ; in addition, Spruce, Fir, or Yew
branches may be placed on the windward side
of them, whenever cold weather is anticipated.
Scatter soot freely over and about them ; this
strengthens the growth and keeps sparrows and
slugs at a distance.

Protective power of strong smell¬
ing plants.—A correspondent of yours, having
introduced the above subject, which is well
worthy of attention, I wish to inform your
readers that I make a practice of placing
branches of Elder, with leaves on them, in the
bushes of Gooseberries each summer, just about
the time of the appearance of the caterpillar.
I have fonnd that they keep the pests com¬
pletely away from the trees so treated, while
others in the same garden not treated so, have
been stripped of their leaves,—G. H. L., Bake-

wvERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

QA hit ENING ILLUSTRATED

Jan. 31, 1885.]

INDOOR PLANTS.

THE INDIAN AZALEA.

This must always be a favourite, not only ou
v. count of the beauty of its flowers, but also for
ita free and cleanly growth, aud dressy appear
iQce even when out of bloom. It is likewise one
of the best plants with w hich I am acquainted
for y ield ing cut flowers for bouquets of all kinds,
iad therefore merits our best attention. The
soil that beat suits it is sandy peat—a good peat
with a fourth part or nearly so of sharp sand.
Some peats have a good deal of sand in their
roirposition, and of course in such a case a
imailer quantity may be added. As a rule,
people do not use enough of good sand in their
Azalea soil. If a pot is well and thoroughly
drained, as it should be, with a couple of inches
of potsherds, and over that is placed a very thin
isyer of clean Moss, the soil may be fine and

mass of roots in the ball. After a little while
the ball becomes quite dry, and then death en¬
sues. Many Azaleas perish annually from this
cause, or the nearly similar one of the pot being
wet at the top and not thoroughly soaked
through ; but that is easily guarded against by
giving thorough waterings. In potting Azaleas,
the soil should be rammed quite firmly with a
short blunt stick, and at several stages as the
soil is put in, if the pot and specimen are large.
In a word, the soil placed round the old ball
in potting should be made as firm as the ball
itself, and then the water will sink through all
parts equally, free and vigorous growth will
ensue, and accidents will be avoided. Should
the cultivator discover a plant perishing from
either of these causes, the remedy is to plunge
it into a tub of water deep enough to cover the
rim of the pot, and there let it soak for an hour
or two, till it is thoroughly saturated and re¬
freshed. Azaleas are free feeders, and therefore

€07

appearance of rigidity, but it is the best way,
though it is not nice to see beautiful plants
trained as precisely as a sugar-loaf. Naturally,
the Azalea assumes an agreeable outline ; and
there is no reason why, in some instances, it
should not be allowed to take any shape it likes.
In order to form a pyramid a central stake is
necessary, but it should not rise above the top
of the plant. The leading or strongest shootB
should be attached to this, and then the train¬
ing should begin by gently tying down the
lowermost branches first to the position desired,
and following with the others. This shape may
not seem pleasing at first, but soon the plant
will have made a fresh growth, and will look
muen improved. The aim should be to make
the specimen equally well furnished on every
side, and not, as in some specimens now aud
then shown, good on one &ide and a bunch of
bare stakes and shoots on the other.

When Azaleas have done flowering they should

thoroughly mixed up, and the plants will prove
all the better for it. It should be passed through
a coarse sieve—rubbed through it if necessary—
—the old fibres, roots of brake, and similar
material generally abundant in peat, being re¬
moved.

If there is any one thing to be more p&rticu-
arly insisted on in potting than another it is
he “ firming” down of the fresh soil that is
•laced round the ball of a plant that is getting a
hiffc. Many employ the right kind of soil and
and, but leave the fresh compost in a much
ofter and looser condition than the old ball—a
listake that often proves fatal to many plants.
Iven some gardeners pot a plant so loosely that
be slightest pressure of the hand sends down
he new soil an inch or tw’o. What is the
esult? Why, the ball being full of feeding
■vots loses its moisture quickly, and then, in
resequence of the earth that surrounds it being
such softer than the consolidated ball, the
vater that is poured on slips doftn thrnuj '

!resh soil at the sides, in whi^hth4rai
id roots, and thus affords noSnoiatur

should be well watered at all times. No plant
better enjoys a thorough soaking ; and in the
case of large pots or tuba it should be given
twice or thrice.

Many Azaleas have a dense thicket of cross
shoots immediately over the pot; so much so
that the hand can scarcely be got in to lay hold
of the stem, and potting becomes an awkward
operation. It was at one time thought that this
was necessary to ensure a bushy plant. Instead
of that being the case, however, some of the
handsomest-shaped and finest plants ever seen
at our exhibitions have stems clear 18 inches
from the pot. The Azalea is so tractable, and
yields so readily to the will of the trainer, that
the shoots may be tied down and the specimen
made to look as w ell as if you let the stem break
forth close to the soil—better, in fact, because
by having some length of clear stem the opera¬
tions of potting and training are much facili¬
tated, and, after all is over, the branches droop
lown gracefully over the edge of the pot.
xhibitors of the Azalea generally train it so
I as to form a pyramidal outline ; this gives an

be put into a moderate and genial moist heat,
to make their growth—that is, if it is convenient
to do so. But if not, never mind, as they will
flourish in a well-managed greenhouse or con¬
servatory all the year round. If, however, it
can be done, give a gentle close heat when they
are growing. At that season they should be
freely syringed, both in the morning and after¬
noon, and immediately after the afternoon
syringing the bouse should be shut up, so as to
retain a moist and genial heat. Many have but
one house in which to grow their Azaleas, and
that one it may not be quite convenient to
shut up, but they need not despair of growing
a good Azalea. It is a very tractable, accom¬
modating plant. We are merely giving the treat¬
ment pursued by those who grow it best. A
slight shade must be given when the sun is
powerful in summer ; but it must be slight,
and only applied during th$ heat of summer
and when the plants are in a soft and growing
state. When growth ii finished, and the plant
approaching the ** ripened ” stage, shade is not
desirable. They should tt>HDe shifted into

608

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 31 , 1885 .

large pots until they have quite filled with
roots those they are already in. See that the
ball is thoroughly moist before repotting it.
Pinching off the strong shoots should be
attended to during the growing season, particu¬
larly in the case of young and freely growing
specimens ; tying down strong shoots is also de¬
sirable. Pinching should not be done late in
the season.

Thrips are the chief and mo3t destructive in¬
sect pest with whioh the Azalea is afflicted.
The best way to get rid of it is to fumigate the
house with Tobacco or Tobacco paper. It
should be done in the evening, and, if con¬
venient, during a still evening. Some fumigate
two evenings in succession ; it is a better J>lan
to fumigate three or four times in succession,
and allow an interval of four days to elapse
between each smoking. Fumigation destroys
the insect, but leaves the eggs safe; the suc¬
cessive smokings recommended, however, catch
the young fry as they come out, and finally
exhaust the stock of vermin. If a collection of
Azaleas is clean, care should be taken to examine
additions that are made to it, as vermin are
often introduced in that way. Fumigation
should not be carried on when the leaves of the
plants are wet or very moist.

It is a common practice with Azalea-growers
to place the plants in the open air in summer.
This is by no means necessary, as some of the
largest and finest Azaleas we have ever seen
were kept in a conservatory the whole year
round. However, in country places, where the
glasshouses do not get regular and skilful
attention, it is safest to put them out after they
have made their growth, as by so doing they
get well cleansed by the summer rains. As it
is of some importance to know the best kinds,
I append a list of the most beautifully coloured
and freest growers Beauty of Reigate,
Coronata, Criterion, General Williams, I very -
ana. Eulalie Van Geert, Chelsoni, Perryana,
Cedo Nulli, Broughtoni, Rosalie, Admiration,
Louise Margottin, Murray ana, Lateritia, Gem,
Extranii, Magnet, Queen of Whites, Heine
Blanche, Juliana, Halfordiana, Rubens, I very-
ana Improved, and Module. Old Gardener.

WINTER-FLOWERING PLANT3.

It is a comparatively easy matter, as everyone
knows, to obtain plenty of flowers during the
summer season. Almost any kind of flowering

S lant, be it Geranium, Fuchsia, Heliotrope,
;c., if only kept alive somehow, is sure to make
a start and bloom more or less well during the
long warm days of summer. But when the
thermometer drops down to somewhere between
20 degs. aud 40 degs. Fahrenheit, and day¬
light does not begin till eight, and ceases about
four, while the sun scarcely shows his face more
than once or twice a week, then the production
of flowers becomes a different and much more
difficult matter. The natural tendency of most
plants under such circumstances is to go to
sleep and rest until better times come round.
Fortunately for us, however, there are several
tribes of plants whose nature is to make growth
only during the summer time, and come into
bloom when the days are short and cold ; others
which naturally flower early in spring, may, by
careful preparation and the judicious applica¬
tion of artificial heat, be cheated into believing
spring to have arrived some two or three months
before it has really appeared. The Chrysan¬
themum and Primula are good examples of the
first-named class, the Cineraria and Hyacinth, or
the Azalea and Camellia, of the second. In the
present paper I propose to enumerate those
plants most suited for the production of bloom
in winter (under circumstances more or less
artificial, of course), to give in concise terms
the treatment calculated to produce the best
results in each class, with lists of the varieties
of each that have been found most desirable for
this purpose. I intend to take, first, plants most
suitable for greenhouse culture that may be
grown satisfactorily by anyone possessing an
ordinary cool house, with, perhaps, a frame or
two ; then kulbous plants, that, flowering
naturally in spring, may be “ forced ” into
bloom abnormally early ; and, lastly, winter-
flowering stove plants requiring a high tempera¬
ture.

T H R _CjntV S ANTH E &HT M

Is, nndoubtedlf, one of the -vnlosk useful and
popular early vkjntt Afle ?e ib / pi&nts that we

possess. Growing naturally throughout the
Bummer months, this plant invariably forms its
bloom buds shortly after the dayB begin to
draw in, and, from the tiniest Pompone up to the
immense blooms of the inourved and Japanese
sections, all are alike delicate and elegant in
colour and form, and of a more enduring cha¬
racter than almost any other flower. The large-
flowering varieties require striking the previous
autumn, if good floriferous plants are desired, or
as early in the same year as possible, for if struck
late the growth maybe fine but is generally too
soft to produce good blooms; in fact, we find
that the older the plants are the better. The
young plants are to be grown on in a light, cool,
airy structure through the winter, and should
never be allowed to become weak or drawn in
any way. Pot them on as needed, using a
sandy soil at first, and a more substantial
material more firmly compressed at every
succeeding shift. In April, or as Boon as all
danger of more than the slightest ground frost
is over, they should be placed out-of-doors in
the most open, airy, and sunny position the
garden affords. They should always be stood
out of-doors on ashes or slates, to prevent
worms, which soon do a great deal of damage,
from entering the pots. The final potting
should be given in the end of June, or early in
July, when pots of 10 or more inches should be
required. Late struck plants are better con¬
fined to smaller pots. Use two parts of sound
rich loam, with one part of decayed manure,
and a little leaf-mould, and a sixth or so of old
lime rubbish, or charcoal, to keep the
soil sweet. A few crushed bones or oyster-
shells mixed with the soil is also beneficial.
Give a fair amount of drainage, and ram the
soil in the pots as hard as you can make it
with a wooden rammer. The pots must
now be plunged two-thirds of their depth
in ashes or soil, or if simply stood on the ground
must be supported by a cord stretched from a
strong stake at each end of the row to present
their being blown over. Plenty of room must
be afforded ; large plants should have a space
of 5 or 6 feet between the rows, with at least a
foot between the outside branches of each in
the row. Stake the shoots well as they grow ;
do not stop, unless they fail to branch naturally,
and, if exhibition or very large blooms are
required, thin out to three shoots to each plant
in 10 or T2 inch pots ; or leave more, or stop
oftener, if more and smaller blooms are wanted.
Water moderately until the pots are full of
roots, then more abundantly, never allowing
the plants to flag. Syringe heavily overhead
on the mornings and evenings of hot days.
When the buds show commence feeding, giving
the manure weak at first, and gradually in¬
creasing the strength. An infusion of cow-
manure, soot, guano, or sulphate of ammonia is
suitable, but preferably use all of these in
rotation. Thin the buds to one on each shoot
if large blooms are wanted. Plants thus grown
will probably be from 6 to 10 feet high
when in bloom. If such cannot be housed,
they should be cut down to 6 inches
of stem in May, and allowed to throw
as many shoots as desired. Bring under
cover early in October, or before they can be
touched by frost or snow. A very light, airy
house, with no fire heat except to keep out
frost or dry up superfluous damp, is the best
place to flower the plants. Admit abundance
of air on fine days, and reduce the strength of
the manure as the blooms show colour. Early
flowers are obtained by early potting, by taking
the earliest buds that show—that is, by pinch¬
ing out the side-growths below, which rob the
buds of their nourishment, and soon render
them useless—by severe thinning and feeding,
especially with ammonia, and by the choice of
varieties. Late blooms are obtained principally
from the Japanese kinds, also by late potting
and stopping, or cutting down, by keeping out-
of-doors as long as possible in a cool, shady
place (as under a north wall) after the buds are
well set, and by keeping cool and shady after
housing, with a constant through current of
air. The Pompone and some of the early
blooming kinds are very useful for cut blooms,
and grown in pots as front row plants. They
do not require striking until February or
March, and need not be fed so liberally as the
large-flowered kinds, though they will take it
well enough. A very easy way of getting
a stock of neat dwarf plants of these is

to strike the cuttings in May, and when well
rooted dibble them out in rows in a nice open
piece of fairly good garden Boil about 18 inches
apart. Water them at first during hot weather,
and stop them well up to the middle or end of
July. When just opening their blooms, lift
them with good balls and pot carefully, and if
well watered afterwards and kept rather close
for a few days, sprinkled and shaded in bright
weather, they will expand nicely and make good
plants, though they certainly do not lost so well
as those grown in pots, and are, on the whole,
inferior. This mode is extensively practised 1
by growers for market. The early or summer¬
flowering varieties must be struck in March, and
planted out in April, when if stopped once they
will bloom in June or July. One of the best
Pompones for producing cut white flowers is an
old kind called Argentine, flowering in October
and November. In pure air or if opened under
glass it comes nearly pure white, and produces
an immense quantity of small compact flowers,
which work in splendidly among a few larger
flowers for bouquets, wreaths, or any other pur¬
pose. The new variety, “ La Petite Maiie,”
produces very similar blooms; it is much
dwarfer in growth, and altogether the beat
Pompone for small pots we have, though it needs
“growing” to do any good, while the other
always succeeds however roughly treated.

A dozen of the best large-flowering incurved
Chrysanthemums are: Beverley, creamy white ;
Eve, sulphur white; Empress of India, ivory
white; Queen of England, blush; Golden
Empress, bright gold (these three varieties
when well grown produce the largest, fullest,
and most globular flowers of any, but unless
they are in the hands of a really good cultivator,
well looked after, severely thinned, and fed
liberallr, they are no good at all) ; Hero of
Stoke Newington, rosy blush; Jardin des
Plantes, rich yellow; Mr. G. Glenny, pale
primrose; Mrs. G. Rundle, pure white; Mrs.
Dixon, rich golden yellow (the three latter are
alike in habit and form, and, though not so large
as the “ Empresses,” are of fine form and much .
more easily brought to perfection); Prince
Alfred, deep crimson, immense size; Pink
Perfection, very fine ; and Venus, lilac-peach,
large. Twelve fine Japanese varieties are: —
Beaumont, bright gold, striped pink, late;
Chang, mahogany colour, very large; Comte de
Germiny, bright nankeen, very large ; Dr.
Masters, rich red, tipped gold, yellow
centre, very long sword-like petals; Elaine
purest white, splendid form ; Fair Maid of
Guernsey, white, slightly tinted pink when
old, immense flowers with long narrow
petals, splendid constitution and habit;
Flambeau, rich orange crimson, reflexed;
Grandiflorum, immense bright yellow, late;
James Salter, delicate rosy mauve, very large,
twisted or spiral centre, very fine and early ;
Lord Beaconsfield, petals salmon red on one
side, yellow on the other, and curiously twisted,
extra ; Mdme. C. Audiguer, splendid rosy lilac, 3
immense and beautifully-formed blooms, one of
the best; Thunberg, soft bright yellow, very
large. Twelve fine Pompones are :—Fanny,
Crimson Perfection, El6onore, Mdme. Marthe,
Golden Mdme. Marthe, Model of Perfection,
President, St. Michael, Aurore Boreale, Dupont
de l’Eure, Captain Nemo, and Argentine.
Twelve early-flowering or summer Pompones:

—Anastasia, deep rosy magenta, splendid habit,
the best in this class; General Canrobert,
yellow, free ; Inimitable, orange-shaded amber,
very free ; La Vierge, pure white ; Illustration,
blush white, very dwarf and free ; Precocity
beautiful rich golden yellow; F. Pel6, deep
crimson red; Early Cassy, pale lilac; Jardin
des Plantes, yellow, free ; White Jardin, white,
similar; Nanum, silvery white, very dwarf;
and La Petite Marie, a beautiful pure white ,
flower, never exceeding 9 inches in height,
requires good cultivation to do well. Twelve j
early large-flowering kinds are Elaire (if the ,
first, or “ crown,” buds that appear are taken,
and all subsequent growths pinched out); James
Salter ; Lady Selborne, pure white sport from
the last-named ; LTle des Plaisirs, crimsor,
gold tips ; Mrs. Cullingford, pure white, good ;
Orph^e, velvety crimson, silvery buff under¬
neath, very carious ; Souvenir d’Am^lie, white,
shaded violet, dwarf ; Chinaman, violet purple ;
Baronne de Prailly, rosy violet (these are all
Japanese sorts) ; Mdme.lC, Desgrange, white, ^
with yellow centre, hybrid Japanese; and

Jan. 31, 188$.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

609

Mrs. G. Randle and Mrs. Dixon, incurved.
Twelve of the best late kinds are:—Fair Maid of
Guernsey ; Beaumont, bright gold, underside
of petals streaked rose ; Dr. Masters ; Daimio,
pink ; Grandiflorum ; Kcumpfer, yellow and
red; Meg Merrilies, sulphur whito, large, and
Sue; Mrs. C. Carey, large-, pure white; The
Mikado, bronzy yellow ; Victoria, rose pink,
large (these are all Japanese) ; and Mabel Ward
and Princess Teck (syn. Christmas Number),
incurved, the first of a golden yellow colour,
and the latter pure white, of fine form.

The Anemone-flowered sorts, both large and
Pompone, are useful as a variety in a large col¬
lection, and a few are very late, but, as a rule,
they are not particularly beautiful. Chrysan¬
themums may be grown and flowered with the
greatest success iu town air, however smoky,
thus possessing a great advantage over many
other plants, which, succeeding well in towns
during the summer, are with the greatest diffi¬
culty induced to produce any bloom during the
winter months.

The Chinese Primula.

This may be taken next as one of the most
generally useful of winter-flowering plants.
Both the double and single-flowering kinds in¬
variably produce a mass of bloom if anything
like well grown. The single kinds, however,
are much more easily managed than the double
ones, so we will take them first.

Seed Bhould be sown in a temperature of
about 65 degs. some time in March if the plants
are required to be in bloom about Christmas.
They should be sown in 6-inch pots quite half-
filled with broken crocks or charcoal, then a
layer of rough siftings, and filled up with a mix¬
ture of about equal parts of loam, peat, leaf-
mould, and coarse sand, with a little finely-
sifted leaf-mould and sand on the surface. Sow
the seed thinly, press gently, water, and cover
with a piece of glass, and place a layer of Moss
over that to keep the seed in darkness until
germination takes place. Keep the surface moist,
and, when the young plants can fce seen, gradually
bring into the light. Shade from hot sun, and
allow no draughts near the plants. When fit
prick off into well-drained boxes, or round the
sides of small pots, using similar soil. Grow on
in gentle warmth, and when fit pot off into 60s,
keeping close for a few days ; then gradually
harden off, and early in June place on ashes in
a cold frame in a position slightly shaded from
hot sun in the middle of the day, or where
shade can be given. Keep close till they are
growing well, then admit air night and day.
At the end of July or early in August shift
into 48’s, and the strongest into 3*2’a ; but few
Primulas need more room the first season than
a 48 will afford. Be careful to give good
though not excessive drainage, and put a few
rough lumps of loam or siftings over the crocks.
The best compost is a sound rich loam—which
must be either turfy or of a rough lumpy
character, so as never to run together as some
sandy loams do—with about a third part of its
balk of sweet old hot-bed manure or leaf-mould
and a fair dash of coarse sand and charcoal.
The water will percolate through such a com¬
post as this directly it is poured on, and
it is astonishing how much moro vigorous
plants become in such soil than when sup¬
plied with a close grained, pasty compost that
holds water and admits no air. Proas the com¬
post firmly, but not at all hard, round the old
ball, and set the plant so deep in the soil
that there will be no danger of its moving,
even when nearly full grown. Now keep close
for a few days, then gradually accustom the
lants to abundance of air both by night and
ay. The plants should receive as much light
as possible, and when well in growth all but
scorching sunshine. Water very carefully, and
never allow the soil to become very dry or very
wet, as both extremes are fatal; uso the syringe
freely over the plants on the morning and
evening of hot days, and encourage growth by
every possible means. If grown in houses they
do best on open lattice stages. A little weak
liquid manure is desirable when the plantB are
in bloom, as it induces a stronger inflorescence.
These plants will be found to bloom best in the
depth of winter in a very light house with a
free circulation of air; they also should be as
near the glass as possibkq oh shelves, or jop^n
lattice stages. A genial etal jfplfljr nv ftpEjtlQp-
Bpherc Bhould be maintained and a tendpslraturo

I ranging from about 40 degs. or 45 degs. mini¬
mum to 55 degs. maximum, produced by gently
heated pipes placed as far as possible from the
plants. Single Primulas have been much im¬
proved in colour the last few years. A strain
known as “ Chiswick Red ” produces, if true, a
large proportion of rich crimson-scarlet blooms
of large size and fine form, and is, in our experi¬
ence, much the best Primula of this class of
colour. A kind called “ Alba magnifies ” has
large and richly fringed pure white blooms,
which are, however, rather more liable to “ drop”
than the ordinary forms. Some very fine rosy-
salmon kinds are now to be had from seed; and
the fern-leaved varieties make a nice change
from the common-leaved kinds.

Double-flowered Primulas are somewhat more
difficult to manage than the singles, but are
more useful for cutting purposes, as the blooms
do not “ drop,” though individual plants do not
make as handsome objects as the single kinds.
The true “double ” forms are propagated from
cuttings taken in the spring of the year, and
these (of which the old “ alba plena ” is the most
commonly grown form), to be kept true, must be
increased in this way. Very useful “ semi¬
doubles” are, however, easily raised from seed, a
good packet of which will give a considerable
variety of colour. As a rule, double Primulas
may be said to do best in a fairly warm and dry
position in winter, and a cool and moist one
during the summer. After flowering, the plants
are hardened by being placed in an airy position,
and kept dry, some silver sand being heaped round
the stems of the plants. In April, or early in
May, take off the shoots with as much stem as

f jossible ; pare the base smooth and trim off the
ower or decayed foliage. Let the cuttings dry a
little, then insert them singly in well-drained,
small pots of very sandy soil, and tie each
cutting to a small stick thrust in the soil.
Plunge in gentle bottom heat, or place on a
shelf in a propagating house. When rooted,
harden a little, then pot on into 48’s, and grow
on quickly in a rather warmer house than the
singles need. A good sound, rich loam, with
some coarse sand, and very little leaf-mould or
manure (which only promotes rank, soft growth)
is best. The seedlings are as easily raised as the
single kinds, and in the same manner. The
decaying or “ shanking ” off of Primulas at the
neck, so often complained of by amateurs, is the
result of defleient root action and consequent
want of vigour of the plant, most frequently
caused by irregular watering. This seldom or
never occurs among well-grown plants.

B. C. Ravenscroft.

(To be continued .)

REPLIES.

12495.— Fuchsias from seed.— The seeds
should be got out of the pulp as soon as they
are ripe. The best way to do this is to gently
work the pulpy part to pieces in clean water,
afterwards pouring the water off and allowing
the sediment to dry. Rub this gently and it
will come into dust, when it may be stored
away in a cool place until spring. In April fill
a 4£-inch pot to within half an inch of the rim
with fine light sandy soil, water before sowing,
and cover the seeds thinly with fine soil. Put
a pane of glass on the pot, and keep the surface
moist until the young plants appear, when the
glass can be gradually removed.—J. C. B.

12558.— Sickly Myrtle. — I suppose the
plant is in a pot; if so, take 2 oz. soft soap, and
dissolve in a little warm water, then make it up
to a pailful, heated to from 100 degs. to 101 degs.
Turn your pot bottom up, holding one hand to
keep in the soil, and plunge the plant in, dip¬
ping it in and out quickly. This will clean off
the little insect. Water with clear soot water
when it is dry so that you can give a good soak¬
ing, and place it out-of-doors in mild weather.
Nothing but frosty weather will hurt it, and it
will stand several degrees of that. Tie the soot
in a bag.— East Suffolk.

12516.— Exhibition Dahlias. —In his
query “Amateur” does not say whether he
intends his Dahlias for the show table or not. If
so, he can hardly expect just at a certain time
to get a bloom fit for exhibition from each of
his six plants. For six blooms I do not think
he could do with leas than twelve plants, and
eighteen would be better. If “Amateur” is
not up in Dahlias, it would be better perhaps to
send to a good house, stating just his wants,

and trust to their selection. But here are the
names of a good dozen : Miss Henshaw, Pioneer,
Royal Queen, Helen Bond, Geo. Rawlings, J.
N. Hughes, W. H. Rawlings, Maggie Soul,
Major Cornwallis West, Sir Garnet Wolselcy,
Wm. Rawlings, Mrs. Stanscombe. Whatever
“Amateur” may go in for, he should not
neglect Pioneer or Miss Henshaw, as no col¬
lection, however small, is, in my opinion, com¬
plete without them. If “Amateur” is an
intending exhibitor, he must remember that
though Dahlias are comparatively easy things
to grow for the show tables, three things must
not be forgotten—viz., liquid manure, dis¬
budding, and shading.—C. H.

12526. — Chrysanthemums for cut
blooms. —Some of the best varieties to grow
for cut blooms, besides those mentioned in the
question, are : Aurea multiflora, Bouquet Fait,
Fleur de Marie (fine large Anemone), Fair
Maid of Guernsey, George Glenny, King of
Crimsons, Lady Selborne (the best early
white Japanese), Madame C. Andiguier, Mdlle.
Marthe, (the best white Pompone), Golden
Mdlle. Marthe, (the best yellow Pompone),
Peter the Great, Princess Teck, and White
Venus.—J. D. E.

- In answer to an “Amateur in Chrysan¬
themum Growing,” who wishes to know the
names of the twenty “ best ” Chrysanthemums
in cultivation for cut blooms, let me assure him
it would be a difficult task for anyone to name
twenty “best.” So much depends upon indi¬
vidual taste that to choose twenty best from
the now nearly 1,000 distinct varieties crown
is no easy matter, but I can mention the names
of about twenty good plants well worth an
“ Amateur’s ” attention. Incurved : Mrs.
Bundle (white), Mrs. Dixon (golden), George
Glenny (syn. C. H. Glover)—these are all of
the Mrs. Bundle class, which are so well known,
and generally considered the best Chrysanthe¬
mums in cultivation. The flowers are not large,
but perfect in shape, finely incurved, and always
to be depended upon for coming true, a perfect
amateur’s flower. Lord Derby, a bright purple ;
Mrs. Heales, a hearty white flower of exquisite
texture ; Barbara, a fine amber of dwarf habit ;
Princess Beatrice, a lilac shade, also dwarf, and
very finely incurved ; Miss Mary Morgan, u
“ pink perfection ” of every good quality;
Lady Hardinge, a free and very fine rose ;
Japanese sorts—Elaine, white, is first and
foremost for any purpose ; Lady Selborne, a
white sport from James Salter, and like its
parent is very free and early ; James Salter, a
lilac ; Madame d’Estrange, a white with yellow
centre, will flower in September ; Margot, a
rosy chamois ; Thunberg, a clear, pale yellow,
a new and most attractive flower ; Boule d’Or,
one of the grandest Japanese in existence
of a golden bronze shade, a very fashionable
colour at present; Peter the Great, lemon-
yellow ; Madame Andiguier, a deep sound
mauve, the best of the colour, but rather
a rank grower; Triomphc du Nord, a
fine loose crimson maroon; and Baronne de
Prailley, a rose blush of the true Japanese type.
In reflexed, King of the Crimsons has no equal,
and in largo Anemone, Fleur de Mario, a white
self, is well worth attention, while in Pompon
Anemones, Mr. Astie, a golden yellow, and
Calliope, early red, are best. In ordinary
November Pompons, Maroon Model and Aurora
Borealis would be hard to beat. If I have not
already outstripped the list, I would mention
one early flowering Pompon, which is quite a
marvel—La Petite Marie—described as a “gem
of the first water,” a little plant, sturdy and
robust. It does not exceed 8 or 10 inches, will
flower exceedingly well in a 4-inch pot, the
flowers white, good size, and very profuse. It
answers equally well as pot or border plant.—
T. Walmsley, Liverpool .

- Mdmo. C. Desgrango, Elaine, La Nymphe, J.

Salter, Eve, Felicite. Mrs O. Rundle, Empress of India,
Barbara, Hero of Stoke Newington. L’Africaine, Golden
Empress, Jeanne D’Arc, Meg Merrilies, Soeur Melaine,
Golden Christine, Fair Maid of Guernsey, Co 98 ack, Meteor,
Cedo Nulli, Julie la Gravdre.—F. Holt.

- In answer to “ An Amateur in Chrysanthemum

Growing ” I send the following Hat. which I have found
to be satisfactory for a small collection I obtained flower*
from mont of these for three n onths and in the greatest
profusion : Madame Desgrange, Mrs. Cullingford. Frederic
Maronet, Felicite, Aicrle rt'Or, Elaine, Mrs. Rundle George
Glenny, J [XwgjnaOT ^nfintaQltuernHcy L'ugget./^rs.
Brunlees, Mrs. Dixon, Golden Dragon, Loid Beacousfleld,
and Ethel. Mrs. CMljugf >rd-| commenced to bloom
September 26, and had over forty good blossoms ; on the

610

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 81, 1885.

Guernsey Nugget I counted sixty large flowers ; and the
Golden Dragon was in peifectioh on Christmas Day, and
had flowers 6$ inches across, I shall be pleased if my
experience is of any help.—D ublin* Amatrur.

-Let "Amateur’' try the following list of twenty

sorts, all are very satisfactory: Golden Queen of England,
Sultan, Elaine, James Salter, Guernsey Nugget, King of
Crimsons, Mrs. G. Rundle, White Irisenna, Empress of
India, Meg Merrilies, Cossack, Madame D’Andiginer, M.
Crousje, Purple King, Fair Maid of Guernsey, Mrs.
Forsyth, Alfonso, General Bainbrigge, Lady Harding, and
Emperor Nicholas.— Corisande.

12553.— Medeola aaparagoides. — This
was printed Medesla in the query, but I pre¬
sume that was a misprint. The following
quotation from Messrs. Barr and Sons' bulb
catalogue may be useful to “ G. L.” : “ Medeola
asparagoides (Smilax), a lovely greenhouse
climber, and a valuable plant for hanging
baskets ; the slender, small, cordate, dark green
foliage of this plant is extensively used in
America for epergnes and table arrangements
of all kinds. The Palermitan ladies use sprays
of this with Camellias for personal adornment,
as it outlives in the heated atmosphere of the
ball-room all other green foliage. A good potful
should always be iu readiness to cut from.”—
T. J. W.

12480 and 12490. —Tuberous Begonias.
—It is certainly better to shake the tubers out
of the old soils and repot in fresh compost.
They will bloom fairly well when not repotted
if constantly fed with liquid manure from the
time they begin to grow, but they will not grow
so vigorously, and the flowers will not be so
large as when the plants are supplied with
entirely fresh compost. If grown in a cool
greenhouse, pot them about the beginning of
April; drain the pots well and use a compost
of two parts loam and one part leaf-soil, with
plenty of white sand in it. Let the pots be
just large enough to allow a margin for water¬
ing, as it is better to shift later on, when the
pots get full of roots, than to put the tubers in
their blooming pots at once. Water very care¬
fully until the plants come into full growth,
and then more freely.—J. Cornhill.

12486.— Flowers for bouquets.— Two of
the best flowers in cultivation are Paris Daisies :
Etoile d’Or and Halleri. The former, if grown
along in pots through the summer in the open
air, and all flower buds pinched out as they
form until mid-September, will bloom well
during the winter in a cool house. Halleri re¬
quires to be treated in the same manner.
Cyclamens are fine for button-holes, and if
young plants are procured soon, and are grown
along under glass through the summer, shaded
from hot sun, and syringed twice a day in hot
weather, they will come into flower by Decem¬
ber. In spring and summer zonal Geraniums,
both single and double, are useful. Chrysan¬
themums grown in the open, and brought in in
October, will yield blooms for cutting up to
Christmas if right kinds are selected.—J. C. B.

12524. — Tropseolum Jarratti. —Probably
the tubers were not potted at the right time.
Unless they are potted up by the middle of
September there is but little chance of their
blooming well, as they should make strong
growth by winter. Then they continue grow¬
ing slowly through the winter months and
quickly in early spring, coming well into flower
by April. Both bracyseras and Jarratti should
be potted the laBt week in August if the plants
are to give a full idea of their worth. For a
good-sized tuber, a 6-inch pot will be large
enough, and the best compost loam, leaf-soil,
and peat in equal parts, with one-sixth of the
whole of white sand. Thorough drainage is an
essential point in the culture of these tuberous-
rooted Tropieolums, as the shoots are extremely
sensitive to an overdose of water. When once
they come to a standstill from this cause they
are long in shooting away again into free
growth. Use the soil moist, and only just
cover the tuber, giving a moderate watering
after potting. If the pots can be plunged to
the rim3 in a frame or cool house the soil can
be preserved in a more uniform state of mois¬
ture, and I always find that a larger amount of
roots are made when it can bo kept just moist
without having to water. Managed in this
way a sprinkle now and then will keep the soil
from drying out, especially if the surface is
covered with moBS and the hot sun kept away.
If it is not convenient to plunge them the pots
may be placed within others a size or two
largsT, and be stoop onjt^p flcort# 4lfe green¬

house out of the draught until they come well
into growth, when they must have a light posi¬
tion. At all times give plenty of air, as they
come from a moist, temperate climate where
they get the sea breeze tempered by moisture.
When they begin to grow train the shoots to a
trellis or up the rafterB of the house. In the
latter way they look uncommonly well drooping
down in graceful flower-laden festoons. In
winter give only enough water to keep the soil
moist, the rule at all times being to allow it to
become nearly dry before watering.— Byfleet.

- It appears that the shoots which die must in some

way get injured, and a very little will do this. It is not
usual (or the plant to behave In this w’ay. The treatment
so far is right. They should always be grown and flowered
in a house in which Are heat is only used to keep out frost.
— J. C. C.

12531.— Sowing Begonia seed.—I fancy
there are more failures due to amateurs trying
to follow the directions generally printed on the
packets containing such small seed as Begonia
than to any other cause. The directions gene¬
rally end thus : “ Cover the seeds lightly with
very fine sifted soil, and water with a fine
rose watering-can, &c.,” the effect of which is
that the seed will be covered with soil deeper
than the young plant can push through, or else
it will be washed out over the rim of the pot or
pan. The best plan I have found with all such
small seeds is this:—Fill your pot or pan or
box with soil as the directions on the packet
tell you; then, after having pressed it pretty
firmly, give the sides of the vessel a few knocks
with the hand enough to slightly loosen the
pressed down surface of the soil; dust your
seed as evenly as possible on the surface ; do
not cover with soil, but put a square of glass
over the pot or pan ; cover with a sheet of
paper, and plunge in heat. Watch the seed-
pan twice a day, and on the first sign of a pair
of tiny green leaves just tilt your glass ever so
little and give a little more light by changing
the brown paper, with which your pan should be
covered in the first instance, for a piece of news¬
paper. Very gradually inure your young
plants to more air and light, and when large
enough prick out into small pots and shift on
as required. A critical time with young plants
is their first two or three waterings, and on no
account attempt to do this overhead until they
look strong and robust, but stand your pot or
pan in another of water so that it may find its
way up through the soil to the roots of the plants
and not down through the plants to the roots
(bottom) of the pot. Unless you have a room
or house in which you can depend on a moist
damp atmosphere, with a regular temperature,
you should not commence operations until the
middle or end of March, for if dependent on a
hotbed the young plants will be almost certain
to get a check during the cold drying winds of
March and early April.— Corks, Swansea

-If “ Jupiter” has no stove I advise him to

defer sowing Begonia seed until June or July,
as Nature would at that time assist a good deal.
I raise large quantities every year, and proceed
as follows: Use perfectly clean and dry
48 size pots, putting in 2 inches of drainage,
and over this a little Cocoa-nut fibre. Prepare
as many pots as required, and fill to within
1 inch with soil composed of equal parts of
light loam and leaf-mould, and sufficient silver-
sand to keep it well open, gently and firmly
forcing it down. Now water thoroughly with
tepid water, and when well drained sow the
seed. The seed being sown, a very little fine
soil should be scattered over it, but not any
more than is just equal to covering it. The
seed pots should now be plunged in a pit or
frame, with a bottom heat of 65 degs. to 75 degs.,
and covered with a sheet of glass, which should
be tilted about an hour every day. When the
young plants begin to show, which will be in
about three or four weeks if all has gone well,
entirely remove the glass, and as soon as large
enough to handle prick them out into small 60 s,
two or three in a pot, using the same compost,
and growing rapidly on. Never water the seed
pots from the top, as a drop of water standing
round the collar of a young Begonia is often
fatal, but plunge the pots nearly to the brim in
tepid water, allowing them to remain for fifteen
minutes.—A. E. A., Ipswich .

12422.—Rose cuttlngB in bottles.—“ A
Humble Pupil" evidently took his cuttings
rather too late in the season, June being the
best month. Let him examine them, and if

they are swelling, or have formed a callosity at
the end, they will soon put forth roots. Their
remaining green so long a time argues well for
ultimate success. As “ A. H. P.’s plants are so
late I should advise him to keep them in pots
the first season, rather than run the risk of
losing them. I rooted several cuttings last
summer, most of which are now in small pots
doing well.— Cora Brea, Portsmouth.

12484.—Calceolaria cuttingfs.— Let them remain.
They will take root by spring, but you must keep the froit
from them. When the weather is mild give plenty of air,
and see that the soil does not become dry. Perhaps the
cuttings wore from the hard wood. They should be very
succulent shoots, and if put in early in October they will
be well rooted by the end of the year.—J. C B.

12649.— White Cineraria (/. C. Palmer ).—Your
Cineraria is a good white variety, as pure os any we have
seen. It will probably not come true from seed.— Ed. O. I.

12519.—Yellow Chrysanthemums for late
bloom.— Grandiflora is the latest of all yellow-flowered
varieties of Japanese Chrysanthemums. The colour is a
clear bright yellow, but it is not a full flower. Thnnberg
is the next in point of lateness, and is a fuller and better-
formed flower ; colour, deep golden yellow.—J. C. C.

-Grandiflora, good yellow; Meg Merrilies, pale ;

The Mikado, bronzy yellow.—F. Holt,

- The best late yellow Chrysanthemum is Mr.

Barnes, a very line Japanese variety.— Urbs.

12677.— Pot roots Of Dahlias.—These are tubers
grown either from cuttings or seed, and not planted out in
the open, but matured in pots. The term is used to dis¬
tinguish them from tubers which have be*n planted out
and lifted from the ground in autumn. The latter are
naturally larger and more vigorous.—T. J. W.

12530 —Cape Ivy.—We have grown this Senecio for
many years, and always out-of-doors. It has lived through
every winter exoept the very severe ones. If grown in a
pot it requires stove heat to flower it and rich soil. Your
lant has probably a wireworm in the pot, or perhaps has
een allowed to get too dry, and then watered. Cut it
down and give it a little bottom-heat.— Corisandb.

Lap&geria alba. —In a garden where this
lovely greenhouse climber is grown to perfection
the secret of success seems to be a suitable com¬
post, ample drainage, and a genial atmosphere
during the growing season. Rain water only is
used for watering it. The roof of the house is
glazed with a glass which breaks the direct rays
of the sun, but, at the same time, admits plenty
of light, much more than if shading were used.
The compost in which it is planted is peat, got
from the neighbouring hills, a small quantity
of charcoal, broken bricks and silver sand
being scattered throughout it to keep the
whole sweet and porous. The method taken
to keep insect enemies in check is careful spong¬
ing with some insecticide, and syringing on clear
days, getting well under the leaves.—L.

Golden Club Moss. —Verdure in Club
Mosses we all admire, but there is no reason
why we should not also welcome a variety
which, as regards colour, affords a decided con¬
trast. Selaginella Kraussiana aurea, on ac¬
count of its golden hue, will probably be a
pretty general favourite, although, like the
Golden Moneywort, it will not for general pur¬
poses supplant or even equal the typical form.
It is, however, a welcome addition to that class
of plants which are so nearly hardy that the
mere shelter of a glass roof alone suffices to
keep them in health and beauty throughout our
long and trying winter, and it will undoubtedly
bo found of great service in the establishment
of cool or cold winter gardens and for pot cul¬
ture. In almost every way that the green form
is used the golden variety may be employed.
—C.

LINUM TRIGYNUM.

Some years ago, on a dark, foggy, rainy day in
November, I visited Chatsworth, and after
passing through the Orchid houses, glancing at
the Chrysanthemums, and admiring the Palms
and other foliage plants, I arrived at the portals
of the huge conservatory, and stood amazed.
On each side of the central carriage drive that
divides this house were magnificent bushes of
glowing gold, so much larger than any of the
kind that I bad seen before, that I could not
for the moment call to mind the name of the
plant. It was Linum trigynum. If the reader
can imagine trusses of from ten to thirty flowers,
each flower as large as a half-crown piece, quite
as fiat and circular, and of brighter orange than
the brightest Calceolaria, he will have some
conception of what dense bushes, 4 feet to 6 feet
high, and of the same diameter, must appear on
such a day. These plants were growing in the
cp*in border of the house, and were bushes such
as gave one an idea of what the plant must be

Jan. 31, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Cll

in its native habitat. Bat it ia not everyone
who can grow this Linum in a conservatory
border, as it reauiies, to bloom thoroughly,
something more than the heat of a conservatory,
and this cannot always be given.

The mistake in its cultivation has been green¬
house treatment, as the plant is a native of the
East Indies and requires a warm temperature.
The right treatment to follow is to take cuttings
of either the young or the ripened wood in Feb¬
ruary and to strike them in gentle or bottom-
heat. They strike with great freedom, so that
from a single plant a large stock may soon be
obtained. When rooted pot them ofF singly,
aiiog a compost of turfy loam and leaf-mould,
to which sand and charcoal broken small may

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

LONG LASTING ANNUALS.

The object of the following remarks is to direct
attention to a few annual flowers that last long
in blossom. It can hardly be disputed that
those who require large numbers of summer¬
flowering plants for beds and borders do not
avail themselves of annual flowers so much as
they might do, considering the little trouble in¬
volved in raising them and the variety which
they afford both in growth and flower. They
ought certainly to deserve a better fate than is
generally assigned to them ; they are often
sown where the soil is poor, and where most
of the moisture which it contains is sucked oat

be added to make it porous. Keep the plants

in & moist atmosphere until they are established of it by the roots of other plants,
in the fresh pots, and then gradually inure In the cultivation of annuals, it is of
them to more air. Once established, they will primary importance that the position
grow with great rapidity ; but it is not worth be open to the sun, and that the
while to stop them until the pots arc well filled soil be as well prepared as if it were
with roots. Then dry them for a few' days and required for zonal Pelargoniums,
cat them boldly bock to within 3 inches or These conditions, moreover, will
4 inches of the pot. This will cause them to avail but little if the common error
break a number of
»hoots from the base,
and from these suffi-
cieot may be selected
to fcrm the founda¬
tion of a plant. When
the young shoots are
about an inch long
repot the plants into
pots two sizes larger
ihan those they have
been in ; use the same
compost and add a
sprinkling of bone-
dust to it. If kept in
a temperature of from
GO degs. to 70 degs.,
freely syringed twice
or thrice a day, and
assisted, after the pots
are fall of roots, with
weak liquid manure,
they will, after this
shift, grow with great
rapidity, so as to form
handsome specimens
from 1S inches to 2 feet
in diameter, and the
some in height. They
will require to be
stopped once or twice
during the season, but
lost stopping should
not be later than the
end of Jaly or the
young wood will not
get sufficiently ripe to
admit of blooming.

The greenhouse will
be the beat place dur¬
ing the autumn, and
care most be taken
to bring the plants
gradually into a state
of rest. If desired
they may receive a
second shift, bat this

is not necessary unless very large plants is committed of allowing the plants to be
are required. By the end of September too much crowded. Two-thirds of the annual
some of them may be placed in a higher tempe- flowers sown by the inexperienced are allowed

The Yellow Winter-blooming Flax (Linum tiigj mim).

raturo, and they will Degin to bloom in Novem¬
ber, and continue in flower until the spring.
The greatest drawback to the plant is its liability
to the attacks of red spider ; this pest grows fat

to stand too thickly on the ground ; the
result is, that the plants do not attain their
true character ; they are pany in growth, and
consequently short-lived. In one sense it is a

upon it with singular rapidity, and a sharp misfortune that annual flower Beeds are so

watch must be kept. The spider can best be
kept in check by laying the plants upon their
sides, if they are in pots, at least ence a week,
and syringing them thoroughly on the under
sides of the leaves. This vail dislodge the in¬
sects and also their eggs. Should the plants by
any mischance become infested, syringe them
immediately, and dust with sulphur. In the

J second season, when the plants have done bloom¬
ing, they may be dried off a little, and then
pruned close back. After they break, thin out
the superfluous shoots, shake the soil from the
roots without injuring them, and repot into
fresh soil. The treatment as to temperature,
potting, and watering will be the same as during
the first season. Handsome plants ofTtl^is
Linum may thus be growbwiih jp th
i wHrlbrv

and the display of bloom

very

cheap, as their very cheapness favours thick
sowing. The seeds of annuals vary a good deal
in size, and to sow all at one depth would be to
invite failure. The smallest seeds should be
sown on the surface, which should first
be made level with the bock of a trowel,
and the seeds scattered thinly «J1 over the
part made Bmooth; some sifted soil should
then be lightly sprinkled over them. The
seeds of Sweet Peas, Convolvuluses, Lupines,
Candytufts, and all others of similar size
should be sown in drills varying ia depth from
a quarter of an inch to half an inch, according
to their Bike. Most annual flowers, too, are
greatly benefited by having all their seeds
picked off, especially Sweet Peas,Convolvuluses,
Nasturtiums, Candytufts, and all other vigorous
growers on which the seed vessels are suffi¬

ciently prominent to be capable of being re
moved without too much looking after, and,
like many other subjects, they are greatly bene¬
fited by copious watering in dry weather.

Porto i.acas. — These are remarkable for
the brilliancy and variety of their flowers.
Given a suitable compost in which to grow,
and there is no other annual flower so
rich in colouring that can be had with
so little trouble. They are, however,
rather peculiar os regards their requirements.
They must have a position exposed to the
sun, and they must be accommodated with u
compost containing equal parts of old lime dust,
or rather old mortar, sand, and soil. This com¬
post mast be well mixed together, and laid on the
surface of the bed 3 inches thick. In this mix¬
ture Portulacas will
thrive much better
than if planted in com¬
mon soil. With re¬
ference to varieties,
there are both double
and single; for bed¬
ding purposes the
single is to be pre¬
ferred. Of these there
are about eight varie¬
ties that are suffi¬
ciently distinct. It
is a good plan to have
them all separate, and
mix the seed all to¬
gether before sowing.
Early in April prepare
some 4 inch pots, have
them drained, and
half filled with potting
soil, tilling up the re¬
maining space with
the same kind of
material as is to be
placed on the bed ; in
this the seed may be
sown, about a dozen
seeds in each pot, and
very lightly covered
with sandy soil. The
pots may then have
a gentle watering, and be taken to a warm
shelf in an ordinary greenhouse. As these plants
in all stages of growth are impatient of too much
moisture, the seed pots had better be shaded
with sheets of paper until the plants appear. It
must, however, be understood that the seeds can¬
not germinate in dry dust; an occasional
watering will, therefore, be necessary to keep
the soil moist. The plants must be kept growing
in a warm house until the end of May ; they
should then be taken to a cold frame, where the
lights can be taken off during the daytime ; a
week of sueh hardening will prepare them for
planting. The plants should be turned out of
their pots without beiDg disturbed, and, as they
are not strong-growing subjects, the pots ought
not to be placed more than 7 inohes apart each
way. If the weather should be very dry at
planting time, a little water can be given to
settle the soil about tbeir roots ; in ordinary
summers they will want no further help from
the watering-pot. In hot dry corners near the
house where low growing plants are admissible
(for they do not rise more than 2 inches above
the surface), these plants will thrive where
many others would fail, and at the same time
they give no trouble.

GodeTUs.— Not many annuals are more
striking than the Godetias. The individual
flowers are sufficiently large to be attractive,
and these are produced with such freedom that
the beauty of the plants does not wane from the
beginning of July until late in the autumn.
For small beds or for clamps ia the mixed
border they are eminently suited. The main
point in their management is to keep them
always growing, and then plenty of flowers will
surely result. To accomplish this all the seed
vessels must be picked off as soon as they appear,
and they muBt be given a good soil and plenty
of water daring dry weather, especially in the
months of August and September. If required
to make a bed, the seed should be sown in a
pan early in April, and the plants brought
on in pots under glass .hi a temperature
of about 60 degfc; they may be put in
3-inob pets, *me in each, or hiuf-vdoztn may
be pricked out round a 6-inch pot. In
the last woek i® >Iay they may be turned

612

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. Si, 1885,

out in the bed about 6 inches apart all ways.
The best varieties are Lady Albemarle, crimson;
Rosea alba, crimson and white, and The Bride.
For the mixed border the seeds may be sown
early in April where the plants are to flower.
As soon as they attain a height of .‘1 inches they
should be thinned out to 4 inches apart.

Alonsoa linifolia. —This is not a particu¬
larly striking plant, but, being a continuous
bloomer and different in habit from the others,
I have selected it for the sake of variety. It
produces innumerable scarlet blossoms on short
sturdy branches, pleasing if not showy. The
seed should be sown in heat in March, and the
plants brought on in a hotbed until the middle
of May, when they may have cooler quarters
preparatory to being planted out. To be success¬
fully used for beds, each plant ought to be well
established in a 3-inch pot by the end of May,
when they may be hardened off and put out in
the bed a week later. This Alonsoa is hardly
showy enough for large mixed borders.

Linum grandiflorum is admirably suited for
bedding, as it commences to flower in July, and
will continue to do so far into the autumn. Its
growth is light and elegant, and it produces its
blossoms so freely that it makes an effective
small bed. It looks best, perhaps, in a round
bed, with the centre somewhat raised. The
flowers being scarlet, a band of blue Lobelia
may be placed next to it, and then an edging of
Golden Feather Pyrethrum. Thus arranged, a
pleasing effect will be the result. As regards culti¬
vation, it is only necessary to say that it requires
a fairly rich soil and plenty of water in dry
weather. It is one of those subjects that do not
transplant well if sown in such a way that it is
necessary to disturb its root very.much. Being a
hardy annual, it may be sown early in April in
warm positions but I have never been able to do
much with it for bedding purposes, i.c ., when
sown where it is to flower, as it begins to bloom
too late ; I therefore prefer to sow half-a-dozen
seeds iu a 3-inch pot about the middle of April,
and raise the plants in a cold pit or frame. The
number of pots to be sown must depend on
the size of the bed to be filled ; the pots need
not be drained. If they are filled to within
three-fourths of an inch of the rim with any
ordinary potting soil that has been first sifted,
and the seeds are covered by about an eighth of
an inch, they will soon vegetate, and by tho
middle of May the plants will be large enough
to plant out. They may then be turned out of
the pots without dividing them. Plants required
for mixed borders may also be raised in tho
same way.

French Marigolds make such excellent beds,
that one cannot afford to overlook them ; their
merits are, however, pretty well understood by
cultivators. In regard to their management, I
must remark that it is not advisable to sow too
early. I sow about the middle of April in pans
or boxes rather thinly, in order to give the young
plants room. From the pans they are planted
out at the end of May where they are to flower.
Tagetes pumila, also closely allied to these
Marigolds, should be sown at the same time
and treated in tho same way. I may remark
that this Tagetes is a capital substitute for
yellow Calceolarias where they do not succeed,
or it may be used as a yellow bedding plant.
Independent of any such consideration, we have
no plant amongst the general summer bedders
that lasts bo long in flower as this Tagetes.
After heavy autumn winds and rains it remains
bright and cheerful. It may be truthfully said
that in a sheltered situation it defies everything
but frost.

Convolvulus minor. —This is unquestionably
the best blue hardy annual we possess. It makes
an effective small bed or an edging to a large
one. The seed may be sown where it is to
flower, or it may be freely used for mixed beds
or borders. J. C. C.

Single Dahlias from seed.— These are
useful in a cut state, but they must be sown
early, so as to get the plants strong by May, for
our summers are too short to allow any
lengthened flowering season before frost cuts
them down. With Btrong roots, however, to
begin with, and planted out very early and pro¬
tected from spring frosts by some slight cover¬
ing, they attain large proportions by the middle
of July, and fromjffhat date until flhe middle of
October yield a ctontiniioii i t dj^ljyiot brilliant
flowers.—H. 7 fS

PENTSTEMONS AND THEIR CULTURE.

Tiie beauty and effectiveness of PentstemonB
entitle them to a foremost position among
arden flowers, yet a good display of them is
ut seldom seen. This is probably in a great
measure owing to the fact that the Pentstemons
are regarded by many as a truly hardy perennial,
whereas it is only in very favourable soils and
situations that it flourishes. In many places,
especially where the natural soil is heavy and
moisture-holding, Pentstemons generally either
die completely away, or become so enfeebled
the second year as to be of but little value. In
severe winters they are apt to be entirely de¬
stroyed, even when in the enjoyment of all the
lusty vigour of youth. In such cases there must
be annual propagation of some kind, so that a
stock of young plants may be always ready to
take the place of those that thus suffer or perish.
None, indeed, need mind the trouble which this
involves, for the Pentstemon will when well
cared for yield as large an amount of satisfaction
as any of those tender plants that are so popular
in open-air gardens during the summer season.

I have never found any difficulty in propa¬
gating Pentstemons when I could get the right
kind of cuttings. Young succulent shoots,
such as spring from the rootstock, strike freely,
but they are not always obtainable at the time
when the great bulk of bedding plants is
increased. It frequently happens, too, that a
period of hot, dry weather exercises such an
exhaustive effect on plants that have bloomed
or are blooming freely as to render the wood
hard and sapless, and when such is the caBe,
propagation is uncertain and difficult, for even
if cuttings made from such unsuitable material
strike, they never make good, vigorous plants.
In order to keep up a stock of Pentstemons, cut¬
tings should be taken now and then from early
summer onwards. In Juno and July there are
sure to be some succulent shoots, one or two of
which may bo taken from a good blooming plant
without much detracting from its decorative
value. Struck at that time they make good
plants by autumn, and planted out the following
March they form grand flowering specimens that
year. The cuttings should be inserted round the
edge of a 4.^-inch pot in very sandy soil and placed
in a cold frame, if possible, in a north aspect.
When rooted, harden off, and eventually pot off
singly, keeping them fully exposed to sun and
air all through the summer and autumn. Winter
them in a cold frame, never taking off air unless
very hard weather should occur, and giving just
enough water to keep the soil moist. From March
onwards pull off the light every day in fine
weather, leaving it off when the nights are mild.
If the points of the shoots have been pinched,
this treatment will have for result the forma¬
tion of sturdy, bushy little plants, which, if
carefully planted, will make a fine show. Pro¬
bably the easiest way, and one more often
practised now than formerly, is tho raising of
Beedlings. A pinch of seed sown every year
will ensure a good supply of young plants, which,
in a general way, grow with more freedom than
those obtained by means of cuttings. If sown
in June the young plants will attain good
strength by autumn; and if two sowings are
made, one about the beginning of June, the
other a month later, a better succession of
bloom will be secured. These seedlings should
be treated as recommended in the case of cut¬
tings, nursed along in the young and tender
stage of growth, but exposed to the open air
when large enough to bear heavy rains without
injury. A bed of seedling Pentstemons of a good
strain is one of the prettiest of floral displays,
and must charm all who have an eye for beauty
of form and colour, independent of mere
brilliancy; and naturally the raising of seed¬
lings has more interest, as one never knows
what is coming, and there is sure to be some
variation in tint from year to year.

Pentstemons, more than many things, love a
good, free, and deeply stirred soil, and did my
means equal my love for this flower, I would
take cafe that the plants had fully 2 feet of
good loam at their disposal. What Pentste¬
mons best like is loam rather light than other¬
wise, with a moderate addition of leaf-soil or
thoroughly rotted manure. With good drainage,
plants thus situated will bear a considerable
amount of climatic vicissitudes with equanimity.
They will also make strong and sturay growth,
and will produce flowers in great abundance. In

the case of light, porous soil, deep tilth is the
great point to keep in view, and 18 inches at
least in depth should be secured. With a good
mulch of short manure in summer, there will
be no difficulty in growing Pentstemons in
soils which naturally dry up quickly in hot
weather. When Pentstemons are found not to
suffer much in winter, they may be planted in
October, as then they become well established
by the beginning of the following summer ;
otherwise the middle of March is time enough.
Plant firmly and mulch with about 3 inches of
Cocoa-nut fibre or short manure. C.

TOO MANY HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES.
The Hybrid Perpetual and Tea-scented varie¬
ties of Roses have taken such a fast hold of the
Rose-loving public, that weeping and climbing
Roses, especially those that were in favour a
quarter of a century ago, are now quietly
elbowed out of the garden. Against the merits
of the new-comers—the Hybrids and the Teas—
I have not a word to say; but do not the
owners of gardens deny themselves some
pleasure by allowing one or two sections of
Roses to monopolise to the extent they do nearly
every garden ? If not aware of the fact, I am
prepared to show them that such is the case.
They not only deny themselves the form of tree
for which their present favourites cannot be made
available, but they lose the choice of selecting
many old and useful hardy Roses that they might
plant without fear of a hard winter doing them
any injury, and which, when once planted in a good
soil, would last for many years with a minimum
amount of trouble. I write thus advisedly.
The formality existing in Rose gardens in nine¬
teen cases out of every twenty is discreditable
to us. Broader views both as to the formation
of Rose gardens, and also the selection of
varieties from the various sections of Roses, must
be adopted if we are to have satisfactory results.
But my object more particularly now is to refer
to some good old Roses that may be made
available in many more instances than they now
are.

The first section to which I shall allude is
the Hybrid Chinas. In this class there is no more
useful Rose for a pillar or for forming a weepmg
specimen when budded on stems from 5 feet to 6
feet high than Blairi No. 2. The colour of its
flowers is blush, and it is a vigorous-growing Rose,
the foliage of which is excellent. When the
choice of Roses was much more restricted than
now, this variety was cultivated in every garden.
It was frequently seen as a weeping tree, but
more often trained to a wire frame in the shape
of an umbrella. For pillars and for walls it is
admirably suited, and there is no more fragrant
Rose in cultivation. Severe pruning in the case
of this Rose is fatal to the production of a full
crop of flowers ; only the old shoots should
be cut away in winter. Overcrowding of the
growth must be avoided, and when trained
to pillars or walls the strongest shoots may
be shortened back to a length of 18 inches
or 2 feet; they will then flower abundantly.
Brennus is a more highly coloured variety
than that just named. It was at one time a great
favourite, both in the form of standard and
weeping trees, when grown on its own roots, or
budded on healthy Briers, and a liberal freedom
of growth allowed. One is not far wrong in
saying that none of these Roses ever die ; at all
events, when grown in a properly prepared soil
they are Beldom seen in any other than a
vigorous condition. I have on more than one
occasion seen them growing on Brier stems from
4 inches to 5 inches in circumference, which
took from fifteen to twenty years to produce,
and yet the trees were perfectly healthy
and strong. In quiet nooks and also in
the corners of prominent walks such example®
make an impression not soon to be for¬
gotten. The modern pruner must, however, be
careful how such varieties are dealt with. If
he must work out his ideas regarding a neatly-
formed bush in the cage of these trees, he had
better leave them alone, for directly he begins
to prune on the same lines as he does his Hybrid
Perpetuals, he will spoil their beauty. For
covering old rooteries, banks of earth, or rongh
fences, this section includes some with more
rampant growth than the above-named. The
best for such purposes are Madame Plan tier, &
kind with white flowers, that are freely r r0 *
duceci In summer jjiulgerifi and Chenedole, two

Jan. 31, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

618

varieties with crimson flowers of about equal
merit ; and, if more variety is wanted, Com-
tesae de L&op.de may be added. This has
blush coloured flowers and a vigorous constitu
tion.

The Ayrshire Roses are the most hardy of any
of the genus. Tbey will grow in almost any kind of
soil or situation, and not the least of their merits
is that they flower in great profusion. I do
not claim for them any particular merit as to
form of flower or striking colours, but 1 have
no hesitation in saying that for positions where
rampant growth is required they have no equal.
It is not unusual to see them making shoots
from S feet to 10 feet iu length in one year.
For this reason they are to be recommended
for planting where no other Roses will produce
the same effect in the same time. They are
suitable for clothing boles of trees, high build¬
ings, or with the aid of a few rough poles and
some wire they may be made to form charming
pillars. If there is anywhere an ugly building
to cover, these Roses will do it more quickly
than any plant I know, producing both a wealth
of growth and flowers such as cannot be obtained
from any other Rose. Here again the modern
Rose prnner must exercise caution. Only a
moderate use of the knife is required, and that

most suitable varieties for a wall are Lamarque,
Jaune Desprez, Jeatfne d’Arc, and Solfaterre ;
but all may be used for training on walls and
pillars. It will be seen that I have intention¬
ally omitted the names of Gloire de Dijon and
many others ; my aim has been to refer only to
Roses that are not now so well known as they
should be.

Referring more particularly to weeping Roses,
if large examples are wanted, the best are the
Ayrshire Roses. They are the most vigorous of
any, and they may be worked on Briers G feet
or 7 feet high ; but if flowers of better quality
are required, the most vigorous of the Hybrid
Chinas and Hybrid Bourbons should be selected.
These should be on stems 5 feet or 6 feet high,
and be annually treated to good dressings of
manure about the roots. Moderate pruning
suits them best. C.

A YELLOW HARDY CLEMATIS.

Those who are not wholly abandoned to showy
flowers and loud effects in the garden, may like,
now and again, to hear of graceful and quiet
things, delicate in colour, or pale. Among the
many Clematises there are some graceful single

merely to thin out some of the old exhausted
wood.

The Hybrid Bourbons contain several
varieties that were at one time great favourites,
and while we have acquired more highly-
coloured flowers with a better form in the
Hybrid Perpetuals, we have lost many hardy
Roses from the Bourbons, which are for the
most part vigorous growers. It is hardly correct,
however, to say they are lost altogether, but
other sections are grown in preference to them ;
therefore they are not now often met with. All
this section is suitable for either standards or
bushes, and if planted in good deep soil, they
will last many years in a healthy condition. If
for standards, they should have the strongest
and most healthy stock selected for them. The
best varieties in this section are Coupe de Hebe,
a well-known old favourite, with dark rose-
coloured flowers ; Paul Ricaut, another grand
old Rose of fine form and of a charming carmine
colour ; and Charles Lawson, a great favourite
twenty years ago, and in many points not sur-

S assed even now by newer varieties. It pro-
uccB pink flowers, and in sufficient numbers
to render a strong plant of it very attractive.
Among Noisette Roses there are a few good
old varieties, now very scarce, but well
worth more notice on account of their distinct
characters. Some few of them are suitable
for standards, especially Fellenberg, a kind
with bright crimson flqjweJs i-^Aimek, Yibgrt,
white ; and Triomphe d ^Rqp fael, y* iWW tJhe

kinds that are worth attention, especially from
those who have palings or walls to garland with
creepers, and for those who are fond of a little
wild gardening or of naturalising pretty things
in hedgerows. One of the most vigorous and
raceful of these is the Clematis here figured,
t is very hardy in all parts of England and very
graceful in habit. The flowers are of a greenish
yellow, and the seed pods silky afterwards and
very pretty. It is, in fact, the only yellow
Clematis we know, and although it may not be
very easily obtained from nurseries it is grown
here and there. It should be easily raised from
seed if the latter could be obtained. We have
seen it growing very freely indeed in Messrs.
Davidson’s garden, at Ashmore, high up on the
downs in Dorsetshire.

Hyaointhus oandicans.— Although this
is considered to be hardy, it does not thrive so
well as could be wished in cold moisture-holding
soil, but remains in good health in well-drained
or light loamy soils. When the natural staple
is of the first-mentioned description the best way
is to take out a good spadeful or two and fill up
with light sandy soil, planting the bulb therein ;
in winter a mound of ashes or something similar
several inches thick will help to preserve the
bulbs against too much moisture. Choose a
sunny but sheltered place and give a mulch of
decayed manure every spring. Hyacinthus
candicans makes a good pot plant.— Byfleet.

Single Dahlias. —A note on the now more
popular single varietieBS of Dahlias may not be
out of place. It has been the habit of some
Beed houses to offer seeds of named varieties.
This is in itself, to say the least, absurd, as I
suppose that no other kind of seed is so little
likely to come true as Dahlia seed. Last year,
to carefully test the probability of some coming
the same as the parent, I planted out thirty
seedlings, which had been very carefully saved
by myself from W. Queen. Two only came
white, one white with mauve tip, and the rest
were yellows and terra cottas of various shades
—some of them far more curious than beauti¬
ful. Now, of a number saved from Paragon,
not one came anything like its parent, being all
seifs. If single Dahlias have a weak point, it
is not want of variety or shape, nor beauty and
brilliance of colouring, but their want of sub¬
stance, and this is at present what cultivators
ought to give their attention to, as in this
direction there is room for vast improvement.
I know that there are some better than others
in this respect, but take the best just before
fully expanded and one of the doubles at the
same time, put them in water in an ordinary
living room, and mark the result; and as a
flower for personal decoration, this grave fault
shows to still greater disadvantage. — C. H.

Renovating cricket ground. — We
have here a four-acre field which is exclusively
used as a cricket and football ground for the
schoolboys, and as no cattle are allowed on it
we are sometimes at our wits’ end to know how
to strengthen the Grass, which is almost
trodden out of existence in the cricketing
season. Last year we tried the following
method, which has both strengthened the
Grass and greatly improved the surface, only
using material that was to hand, i.e. t about 10
loads of fine garden soil, 10 loads of fine sifted
ashes, and about 20 loads of road drift. The
whole we carted to a corner of the field, mixed
it well together as the carts were tipped, and
then levelled it down to a flat, square heap,
which we hollowed out in the middle, so a9 to
retain liquid. We then carted 9 barrels of
liquid manure from a cesspool in the farm-yard
(the cesspool is fed from the cowsheds, pig¬
geries, &c.), and by means of a wooden gutter
the liquid was run all over the heap, allowed
time to saturate through, and, while in a wet
state, the soil was thrown up close together.
In another fortnight we turned the heap over,
shifting it all, and breaking up the hard lumps.
About the second week in March we harrowed
the field roughly over and had the mixture
carted out and spread equally on the surface.
Eight bushels of cricket ground seeds, mixed
with a few pounds of white Dutch Clover were
then sown on the ground, which was again
harrowed, then rolled, and rolled again at
intervals of about a fortnight until the Grass
required mowing. The field was not used till
the 12th of June, when it was in first-class con¬
dition and continued so throughout the late dry
summer. There were, of course, a few bare
spots in the autumn where the wickets were
pitched ; these we turfed over, and the field is
now the greenest one to be seen for some
distance round, and there is every appearance
of the Grass being as good again next season.—
D. D., North Surrey,

Campanula pumila alba.— Among white flowers
I would place Campanula pumila alba. It forms a clump
like a patch of snow. Easily grown in good loam. For
children's graves it looks remarkably appropriate.—A lefii.

REPLIES.

12574.—Chrysanthemums for open
air. —In North London, in the open border,
without any frame or shelter whatever, I gTew
the following. I bought young plants in pots
and planted out in March. Old plants I took
up and divided, getting, if possible, single-
rooted slips from them and putting them at
once into their blooming quarters. If these
latter show any symptoms of flagging turn a
flower-pot over them until they have started
rooting again. This is a rough and ready way
of doing things, but I had a large amount of
bloom from my plants. Early and semi-early
Pompones are the only classes suitable, and of
these choose decided colours. Delicately tinted
ones are not, as a rule, very satisfactory out-of-
doors. Early, or summer-flowering : Madamo
C. Dssgrange (white) August; Cbi-omatella
(orange), August; Illustration (faint pink,

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 31, 1885.

changing to white, very pretty and free bloom¬
ing), September ; Madame Picoul (rosy purple),
August; Mr. W. Piercy (red), August; Preco¬
city (yellow, a rather shy bloomer, if my plants
were correctly labelled), August. Semi-early
varieties: Cedo Nulli (white, with pink tips,
yellow, or lilac), October ; Sueur Melaine (white,
beautiful), October ; President (Magenta), Octo¬
ber ; Dupout de l’Eure (yellow, shaded amber),
October ; Brilliant (deep maroon, very showy),
October. The hybrid Pompone, Julie La
Gravere, also did remarkably well, commencing
in October and remaining in bloom a long time.
In colour, its deep maroon tint is unequalled.
I never stop a shoot unless I find it is running
so far as to spoil the shape of the plant, and
then I do not hesitate. Julie La Gravere and
Dupont de l’Eure I find are better for a little
disbudding, otherwise the blossoms are very
crowded. During growth, I top-dress with soot
freely, and in hot weather give plenty of water.
-T. J. W.

- No doubt many will be tempted by the

fine autumn weather of last year, in which out¬
door Chrysanthemums did so well, to extend
their culture, and I would be the last to say a
word against it; but we must not forget that
the past season was an exceptionally dry and mild
one, and that sometimes the weather is so severe
in the early part of November, that unless the
flowers are protected on frosty nights they
are quite destroyed by frost. Those who
are starting with outdoor Chrysanthemums
for the first time should understand this,
so as to be a position to shape their course
accordingly. Finding that early November
frost frequently destroyed our flowers, even
here in the west, I have for several years past
given up growing them in the open borders,
and instead I utilise every available space on
the walls on all but a north aspect, and put in
a plant where there is room for it. In this posi¬
tion we oan grow in a very satisfactory manner
all the large reflexed and some of the Japanese
varieties ; and, should there be signs of frost of
sufficient intensity to injure the flowers, we nail
a mat over them at night. As November
frost does not usually extend over many nights
we often save our flowers until near Christmas
without much trouble ; and in seasons like the
last they stand without any protection whatever.
If I had to grow them in any other part of
England I should confine my sorts to the early
flowering sections, and I would secure all the
sorts it was possible to obtain, and make my
selection from those that I found to suit my
purpose best. The catalogue descriptions of
the time at which they flower cannot be
depended upon, as so much depends upon the
locality. I have grown a large collection of
these early varieties for flowering in pots in
October. These are planted out in a spare border
in May, and lifted and potted in September.
Those who wish them to flower in the open will,
of course, plant them where they are wanted to
blossom ; but as soon as they go out of flower
the plants should be taken up and kept in a cold
frame all the winter, or planted close to a warm
wall for protection. In May they may be taken
up and divided, and good-sized pieces with
plenty of roots selected to plant out. The fol¬
lowing is a selection that may be relied upon as
containing the best and most free-flowering
varieties : Madame M. Desrange, white (this
is an effective and useful variety) ; Golden
Madame Domage, golden yellow ; Anastasio,
rose; Alex. Dufour, violet; Boldii, yellow ;
Early Cassy, light lilac ; Gold Button, golden
yellow; Lyon, rosy purple; Madame Piccol,
dark rose; Madame Bachoux, white; Mdlle.
Jolivart, pure white; St. Crouts, pink ; Mrs.
Wood, bronze ; Zenobie, bright orange yellow.

I may add that I have tried a few so-called
early Japanese varieties, but I have not been
successful with them.—J. C. C., Somersetshire .

12538.— Plants for back wall of vinery.
—Unless the vines are planted very thinly, or
do not come to within 2 or 3 feet of the top of
the house, Oranges would not do well, and
Tomatoes would be a failure. Why not plant
Camellias ? They grow well in partial shade,
and flower when the foliage is off the vines.
They grow so much better planted out than in
pots. Lapagerias, too, red and white, would
probably do well. If you wish for ^.Oranges
particularly, plant at/the ends of tause,
whe the light strike Ain Im c r& lv. WH fivers,

of Sawbridgeworth, makes a specialty of
Oranges. The border should be 3 feet wide by
2 feet deep, and put 4 inches of rubble for
drainage at the bottom. Compost: fibrous
loam one part, peat two parts, with one-Bixth
of white sand. Plant any time from now to
May.—J. C. B.

12545.— Lilium giganteum.— No one can
hope to be successful in the culture of this Lily
in the open ground, unless it can be sheltered
from spring frosts and protected from the
attacks of slugs. The proper place for it is
among Rhododendrons or Evergreens of some
kind, the dense foliage of which keeps off biting
winds in spring, and in a great measure wards
off frost. Sheltered nooks, where little wind
but plenty of light comes, are the right places
for this Lily, and these are easily found where
Rhododendrons are planted in beds. In a
general way, too, slugs are not so troublesome
in such places as in the ordinary border, but in
all cases a good dressing of soot must be given
now and then from the time the plants appear
above ground. As far as mere hardiness goes
this Lily is superior to auratum and quite
equals speciosum in its ability to pass our
winter uninjured, but, like these kinds, it often
falls a victim to our inclement springs.—J. C. B.

12498.—Flowers for north aspect.—
Jasminum rudiflorum, Pyrus japonica, and
Corchorus japonica are three flowering shrubs
that do very well and flower freely on a north
wall. Primroses, Polyanthus, and especially
alpine Auriculas do remarkably well there.
Indeed, such a position is in a manner indis-
[ pens able to the continued well-being of some
of the double kinds of Primroses. Narcissi,
Tulips, Snowdrops, Crocuses, Scillas, and Hya¬
cinths will bloom well and last longer in flower
than when planted in the full sun. Other suitable
things are Myosotis dissitiflora, Saxifraga
umbrosa, Lilies of many kinds, and then
there is the numerous family of Ferns, which
naturally delight in the shade and moisture
afforded them in the shelter of a north wall.—J.
Cornhill.

12589.— Lilium auratum in the open
air.—Having tried the system advised by Mr.
Wood, in his book on hardy perennials, I can
recommend “ Boz ” to do likewise. Briefly it is
this : Plant 9 inches deep in a well-drained but
moist border, facing west, and surround the
bulbs with fine charcoal. I should plant as
soon as I possibly could, in the meantime keep¬
ing the bulbs in Cocoanut fibre, or light soil.
From a small bulb treated as above in the
autumn of 1883 I obtained eight flowers in
September and October last year.—T. J. W.

12596.— Disease in English Orchids.—
What Mr. J. Otter thinks is due to disease
seems to me to be the effect of late spring frosts.
All our native Orchids are very sensitive of
frost, and are liable to have their leaves and
flower buds mutilated, or even entirely de¬
stroyed, by it. I have frequently found 0.
mascula with the leaves burnt and the bud
quite withered when scarcely an inch high. As
for O. apifera, it is often remarked that in some
seasons it is absent from its usual haunts, and
these seasons will be found to have been marked
by severe May frosts, which cause both leaves
and buds to disappear. Listera ovata is equally
sensitive. I recollect marking the spot in
which some specimens grew which I wanted \
when in flower, and I judged that the time for
this would be in ten days. Meanwhile, a severe
frost occurred, and when I searched for them it
was with great difficulty that I found them,
though I knew the exact place, both leaf and
flower being entirely burnt up and withered.
As Mr. Otter remarks, the bulbs do not seem
to suffer.—C. Wollky Dod, jE dge Hall, Malpas.

12568.—Lavender bushes.— The best treatment to
pursue when the plants ijet old and straggling is to take
good-sized sturdy slips in October, and put them in well-
dug soil. They strike so readily that I should feel inclined
to treat them thus in March or April, rather than wait
until tho autumn, and believe that good bUBhes could be
obtained by that time. Throw the old roots away.—

T. J. W.

12591.— Brier seeds.— The Brier seeds ought to have
been sown as soon as they were ripe, and then they would
have come up in half the time. I have several dozen nice
plants.—E. J. V., King's Worthy, Winchester.

12482.—SwSet William seedlings.— The latter
end of March Is the best time to transplant them. Well
stir the ground for their reception, and add a little

thoroughly-decomposed manure. If they are to remain
where planted let each plant have quite 6 inches Equare
of space to develop in. Sweet Williams last for yeara in
health and vigour if annually top-dressed with rotten
dung.—J. C. B.

12527.—Hardy bright-flowered creepers.—I
strongly reoommend * T Pen see ” to try Tropsolum
tuberosum on her terrace, planting the tubers in April in
fairlv rich soil. Cot-on caster miorophylla could be trained
over the edge of the terrace in time and with a little care in
guiding it, and it has the advantage of being perennial.—
Corisandb.

12564.— Treatment of Lilies.— If you have no green¬
house in which to place the Lilies, plunge the pots to their
rims in a warm, sheltered border, and attend well to the
watering os they advance in growth.—J. C. C.

ROSES.

Gloire de Dijon Rose. —The esteem in
which this Rose is generally held is a sufficient
guarantee of its merits. There is one striking
feature in its character that is deserving of
special notice ; I allude to the way in which it
adapts itself to the various forms in which it is
cultivated. As a climber or as a standard it is
remarkable for the freedom with which it
flowers ; besides this, it has the great merit of
being as hardy as any of the Hybrid Perpetuals.
When used as a climber, I prefer it on its own
roots. In the west of England, I find it endur¬
ing all kinds of winters on a wall with an east
aspect, without in any way suffering ; and the
way in which it renews itself by sending up
strong young shoots from the base is well
worthy of remark. Hard pruning is very hurt¬
ful to this Rose. It is better to cut out some of
the old wood than to remove the young altogether.
In order to secure a regular succession of flowers
every year of a presentable size, it is neces¬
sary that a good portion of young wood should
be preserved for the next season’s flowering,
merely shortening back a few inches of the tops
of the shoots that are laid in. In providing a
station for the roots, it is necessary to bear in
mind that, as a rule, this is a long-lived
Rose, and the preparation must be in accord¬
ance with its character. It is not very parti¬
cular as to soil, provided this be deep and hold¬
ing and contain something substantial for the
plant to feed upon. One thing may be reckoned
upon as certain, and that is, it is a difficult
matter to confine its roots. Three or four
thong-like roots sent out as feeders are about
the usual number belonging to a large plant;
but I cannot attempt to say how far or in
what direction they may travel in search of food
unless they are confined. This Rose is, unfor¬
tunately, when grown as a standard, pruned on
the same hard-and-fast rule as the Hybrid Per¬
petuals, which is quite at variance with its
character. To cut the young growth back to a
spur is wrong. The old wood only should be
cut away, and the young and strong shoots left
from 15 inches to 18 inches long ; then they
may be expected to flower in a satisfactory
manner. This is a useful Rose for training on
a frame in the shape of an umbrella, a form of
growth that was some years ago more in favour
than at present.—J. C.

La France. —This is the most valuable
perpetual-flowering Rose we have. Properly
placed and cultivated it is, as a rule, the first
to bloom and the last to cease flowering.
With plants against walls of different aspects,
and as standards and dwarfs on the Brier,
the Manetti, and their own roots, this magnifi¬
cent Rose may generally be had in plenty in the
open air from May to November. It is almost as
useful indoors as out—in pots as in the open
beds or borders. Unlike many other Roses, La
France is, as a rule, of deeper colour under glass
than in the open air. The better climate under
glass also seems, if possible, to give the flower a
higher and more perfect finish and a fuller
fragrance. La France thrives well on the
Manetti, grows freely on the seedling Brier and
Brier cuttings, takes kindly to the high stilts of
hedgerow standards, and thrives admirably on
its own roots. W T hile about as hardy as most
of our Roses, there is no Rose we grow, whether
Tea, Noisette, orFerpetual, that better deserves
or will make better use of a warm wall than La
France. In such positions, with a rich root run
keptmoistwith soap-suds or sewage, the numbers
of blooms the plants will produce and their size
and uweetness will satisfy the most avaricious

^ANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jast. 31, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

615

THE PROPHET FLOWER.

(ARNKBIA KCHIOIDE3.)

Among the foremost of Borage-worts for a free
and proliferous flowering habit stands the so
called Prophet’s Flower, a sprig of which is
represented in the annexed cut.

it was introduced to cultivation nearly half a
century ago, and at first was increased only by
the few seeds it chanced to ripen ; but in this,
as in most Borage-worts, these, except in favour¬
able years, are so uncertain that we are fortunate
in having to depend on them so little now for
its propagation. It may be increased with the
greatest ease from the sidelings or offsets, which
are produced freely round the root stem of the
old plant. They will, however, strike more
readily if taken off with a heel—breaking off
instead of cutting—inserted singly in thumb
pots, in light, sandy soil, and placed in a brisk
bottom heat. In spring, or after they have
rooted, they will require to be hardened before
being placed in the border.

The process of increasing by root cuttings we
have also found, after trial, to be a good one ;
but where the stock of this golden gem is small
or reduced to a single plant it is not so safe as
that of the sidelings. The whole plant is lifted
and the roots cut in lengths of not less than an
inch ; they are then placed in small pots, in light,
sandy soil, the beat time being from the beginning
to the end of October. Through the winter
months they should be kept in an equable tem¬
perature and guarded against damp lodging near
the cutting, as even strong plants in pots are
liable to damp in an atmosphere too close and
moist, and are, indeed, Bafer in open border.
Towards spring numerous buds will be observed
pushing on all sides of the cutting, but only one
should be allowed to shoot. More water should
be given at intervals. It succeeds equally well
on the rockery and in the mixed border, pro¬
vided the draining be good, and seems to be all
the better for partial shade or an east exposure.
With us, grown in full sun, the flowers are of
much shorter duration, and the pretty and
peculiar prophet’s finger-marks disappear almost
immediately. From early summer, until
destroyed by frost, it sends up fresh relays of
flowers at three distinct periods, easily observed.
A peaty soil, free and rich, with a good drainage,
suits its requirements best in the south, and we
adso find a good top dressing in spring very
beneficial. A. echioides throws up numerous
flowering stems about a foot high, from a tuft of
oblong or ovate lanceolate leaves, obtuse and
covered with a dense pubescence; the corolla
is funnel-shaped, having fine spreading seg¬
ments, bright or orange yellow, and with a dark
purple dot between each lobe. They are pro¬
duced in dense spikes, and are very handsome.
It is a native of Caucasian Alps and Armenia.
A. Grillithii is probably the only other of the
genua worth cultivating, and that it is only an
annual species is fully compensated for by its
large and singularly pretty flowers. It has
much narrower leaves than A. echioidea, is of a
brighter coloured yellow, and has more distinct
and darker spots, which last much longer. It is
a native of north-west India, and flowers in July
and August._ K.

12518.— Manure from fowl-house.— If
you have it beside you now, spread it on the
ground, and dig it in where you are to have
Onions, Leeks, or Cauliflower; or top-dress
Raspberry, Gooseberry, or Currant bushes with
it, spreading it round the roots on the surface
of the ground. The rain will soon wash all the
substance down to the roots. Applied in that
way I have found fowl manure to be the means
of producing heavy crops of tine fruit, and I use
it myself always when I can get it.—W. G.

2*2541.— Sprats as manure.— Perhaps you
will allow me to state my experience regarding
sprats as manure, I having seen hundreds of
tons used annually. For green crop, such as
TurnipB or Potatoes, I do not think you can get
anything better. Our practice here is to spread
them on the stubble and plough them in at once,
as birds take lots of them away. We consider
two tons per acre a good spread, and they can
be bought here at 16s. per ton at the riverside.
They sell at from 10 s. to 12s. for vegetable
crops, and they are just first-rate, decomposing
so easily. We consider ^heir effects Jto last
about three years in ttfe soiL^-J. Q,m.AiKkter-
muchty. Ill : tllO

FRUIT.

APPLES FROM THE MIDLANDS.

We have had the pleasure of receiving a
number of very fine Apples from Mr. William
Ingram, of the Gardens, Belvoir Castle. The
question of our climate and its fitness for fruit
culture is often raised, but we think that nobody
seeing this fruit would doubt that England
could grow as good Apples as any country in
the world. The beauty of the large kinds,
such as Gloria Mundi, Warner’s King,
Turner of Glanies, Lord Derby, and Mere du
Menage, was quite remarkable, and, strange to
say, equalling them in size was our old favourite,
Blenheim. The handsomest fruit we have seen
were those that came from Mr. Ingram. With
all the talk about American fruit our own people
like that which is English grown the best, when
they can get it good. This fact should en¬
courage the home grower, but the old and
common way of letting orchard run wild,

and expecting to get good fruit from it will
not do. We must do what the Americans
do—really cultivate the orchard as a garden
is cultivated, and be particular as to the
varieties, soil, position, and everything else sur¬
rounding it. There are very few American
Apples that have the fine, wholesome, acid
flavour that is generally so much appreciated.
With the exception of the Newtown and
Northern Spy, these Apples have often a sweety
flavour, which makes tnem less desirable for
cooking. Hence, we believe that the chances
for our own country in tho future, in regard to
Apples, are more favourable than some people
think. One defect that we hope to see amended
some day is the flavour of the fruit. For cooking
a great many of our Apples are excellent, but
what is wanted is a series of good eating Apples
to come in after Christmas and last all through
the spring. Our growers and raisers have paid
so much attention to mere size and colour that
by far the greater number of large Apples tasted
at this time of the year have no distinct flavour
or character. Indeed, the flavour is often
poor and the texture woolly. A distinct

departure should be made in this respect,
and all who care for our fruit culture should
search out among the old and little known kinds
well flavoured Apples that keep long after
Christmas, while raisers, who are so busy at
spoiling Brussels Sprouts and Tomatoes by
raising kinds that we do not want, would do
well to turn their attention to the great Apple
question. By crossing with some of the cider
Apples and other kinds with a fine store of
acid they might get new and very desirable
sorts. Among those from Belvoir Castle the
best in flavour were the Margil, Cox’s
Pippin, and the Ribstone ; but even these, in
some coses, had lost flavour because they do
not keep long enough. Rosemary Russet had a
very good flavour. The large baking Apples
are extremely good in autumn and winter—
nobody can deny it; but their tendency to lose
their acid and flavour and to become woolly and
poor is much against them. We should have
plenty of Apples till late in spring. Probably
something might be done to keep them better
than they are now kept. Putting them in
stables, or near hay and straw, or in warm, dry
lofts and such places is, we think, prejudicial
to them. They would, we believe, be better
stored in a heap in an open shed with a mat
over them, but the best store of all would be a
deep cellar or cave in which the temperature
would be low and constant.

MELON GROWING MADE EASY.
Most amateur gardeners look upon the Melon
as a “ cut above ” them, and either never try to
cultivate it, or, trying, take so much trouble
with it that they fail. As a matter of fact,
nothing that requires artificial heat is more
easily grown than the Melon, if one only knows
how. In the first place, there should be no
attempt at starting the seed until the winter
cold has got the chill off, say about the first
week in March. Then make up your liot-bed,
and at once (without waiting for the heat to go
down) place upon it, near the top, about a stable
bucketful of soil composed of the top spit of an
old meadow', some fresh horso droppings, and a
little sand, mixed together, but not sifted.
Upon the soil draw an imaginary triangle, a
foot each way, and at each angle put in one
seed. Place a sheet of glass on the soil, and
leave your lights off until the seeds come
through. By that time the heat will have gone
down to about the proper temperature. Now
get three small flower pots, plunge them in the
hot-bed, and put a seed in each, to fall back
upon in case of accident, or to plant out pre¬
sently under another light. In the centre of the
triangle make a round hole, and pour water
every morning into this hole, being careful that
no wet gets to the collar of the plants. When
the latter have grown about 4 or 5 inches
stop them, and when side shoots are
thrown out stop them also until fruit buds
are formed. Do not water them overhead
until the weather is really w'arm, and then
do so either early in the morning or late at
night. When the flowers are opening, leave off
the watering can rose, and give water only at tho
roots. Give plenty of air night and day after
June, and shade from very hot sun. It is
better 'to fertilise the flowers oneself than to
leave it to the bees. By taking a little trouble,
you may have all your Melons swelling at the
samo time—a very desirable, but not absolutely
necessary, matter. If you like to put the
sweepings of your lawn round your frame, do
so ; they will do no harm, and in a cold summer
will help the Melons_to ripen. Having done all
these things—have patience. The fruit will
seem long in ripening; still, it will ripen, if left
long enough. My last Melon this year, grown
without any artificial heat whatever, was not
ripe till October. It weighed 3 lb.

J. T. B. Wollaston.

The bud on Black Currant bushes.

—I have read with considerable interest, in the
number for January 17th, the letter of F.
Davidson upon what she calls a disease in Black
Currant trees. I must say I have never met
with such a case myself, although I am quite
familiar with a somewhat similar case in Red
Currants, and can safely say that this is no
disease of the tree, but an attack of some fly
or xbi>th. From the description of the maggot,
I should| -tjunk. 4 wpj ^cjf some

616

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jar SI, 1885.

geometer moth, bat do not know of one having
such habits. I do hope, however, Mrs. David¬
son will at once dismiss from her mind the idea
of those maggots being “ bred in the system
and permeating the whole system by the flow
of the sap,” for she will most sorely find that
they have been deposited upon the tree as eggs
by some insect or other. If she will kindly
send me a few of the infected shoots I shall be
glad to work out the life history for her, and
no doubt it would also be of interest to other
readers. — W. E. Harper, Norfolk Roal ,
Maidenhead,

REPLIES.

12571. -Green grub on Gooseberries.
—As the spring approaches it is usual to
find numerous correspondents in Gardening
advocating various remedies for preventing the
ravages of the green caterpillar on Gooseberry
bushes. Not having observed any mention of
the use of Foxglove for that purpose in your
journal, I am induced once more to direct the
attention of your readers to its efficacy. Some
years* experience enables me to speak con¬
fidently of its value. The Foxglove plant
(Digitalis purpurea) is commonly starting into
growth in most country districts just when
the leaves of the Gooseberry bushes become
attractive to the grub. The remedy can be
prepared for all by taking a large handful of
the leaves, torn and bruised, and placing
them in a bucket sufficiently large to admit of
two gallons of boiling water being poured over
them. After allowing the covered vessel to
stand for ten or twelve hours, strain the infu¬
sion, which will then be ready for use. It can
be applied to the bush with a syringe or water¬
ing-pot with a rose attaohed. The application
should be continued until all traces of the grub
have disappeared. I have seldom had occasion
to resort to the remedy more than once or twice
to stop the ravages of the pest. It is a curious
fact that the green caterpillar can be fed on
Gooseberry leaveB steeped in Foxglove infusion
for several days, with impunity. The effect of
the Foxglove would appear to support the view
entertained by one of the correspondents in your
last week’s journal, thatcertain strongly-scented
plants, such as the Black Currant and Tomato,
are noxious to some kinds of insects. It has
long been observed that a sufficient number of
Tomato plants, cultivated in a vinery, pre¬
serves the fruit from attacks of wasps and flies.
I agree with your correspondent, “ W. M. C.,”
that the subject deserves closer attention than
it has yet received.—J. K. S., Abbotsfidd.

- Mr. Phillip’s garden is on so large a

scale that he may not be able to adopt the plan
by which I saved my thirty trees a few years
ago ; still, if he has a few handy lads or lasses
about him I think it might pay. The fly lays
its pretty little white eggs under the young leaves
just as they get to be nearly full-grown, in lines
along the ribs, and they are hatched within a
few day8 after laying. As soon as each tiny
caterpillar escapes, it begins to feed close by its
eggs, and works a little hole through the leaf,
and on looking into the bushes leaves will be
found with regular lines of minute pinholes by
the sides of the ribs. These holes are as neat aB
the perforations in postage stamps, and very
little larger, and on turning up the leaves from
ten to twelve caterpillars may be found busily
feeding, and perhaps as many eggs yet whole.
Within two days after first discovering them I
picked off from my thirty trees over 400 in¬
fested leaves, and calculated that I had destroyed
at least 10,000 caterpillars or eggs, and I saved
my trees when many gardens round here suf¬
fered severely. Since then, though I find a few
leaves to destroy every spring, we have not
been much troubled. A friend to whom I
showed leaves, having a large family of children,
offered a small reward for every score of per¬
forated leaves brought to him, and told me he
had found the bribes quite effectual.—W. M. C.,
Clapton,

- “W. S. J., Beech Lanes,” in Garden¬
ing for November 10, mentions the good effect
produced on the above trees when infected by
the grub by placing a twig of Black Currant in
the centre of each tree. The latter seems to
have banished the grub. May I mention that a

f iece of Elder tree, or, as it is called here,
lurtrec, will produce tho same effect? I first
noticed it by seein^those Gooseberries near an
Elder bush free fdpm the^ri t

others

some distance off were ravaged by them. I
think I have found the same results from Whin
used in a similar manner.—J. B.

-Try syringing with this solution : In a tub or barrel

put a quantity of the leaves of the Elder (Sambucus),
fill up with wa er, and let them soak. An old gardener
told me this was an excellent preservative for many crops
against insect pests, notably for Onions. It would be
interesting to learn from experiment the result of using it
on miscellaneous subjects.—T. J. \V.

12487.— Orange and Lemon trees.— It
is easy to tell a Lemon from an Orange tree by
the smell ; the former emits a strong and agree¬
able aromatic perfume, which the latter does
not. The leaves, too, are longer and paler in
colour. The culture is the same for both. They
should get plenty of air during spring and sum¬
mer—indeed, they do best in the open air from
the end of June to the middle of September,
unless they have been repotted, when they may
remain under cover until August. Much harm
is, however, done them by overpotting. The
pots should be full of roots before they are
shifted, and then they should get pots but one
size larger. Good fibrous loam, with a little
peat and leaf mould, forms a good compost for
them. Pot firmly, and give good drainage. In
hot weather syringe twice a-day. Daring the
winter give no more artificial warmth than is
necessary to keep out frost. — Byfleet.

- Bruise a leaf; the difference is at once known by

the Bmell.—A lkpii.

12415.—Show Gooseberries.— If “ Amateur” wants
a good strain of Gooseberries or Grape Currants, red, I will,
if ne sends to me, help him to a sort of my own. I have
no name for them, and he cm have cutting* of either.—
J. L. Rrtaxt, Ridge Top, Wollaston, Stourbridge.

The Burning Bush. —In your issue of
January 10, page 567, “ J. C. C. ” writes about
the Burning Bush. He may not know that
the proper Burning Bush is one of our best early
autumn herbaceous plants named Traxinella, of
which there are two varieties—the red and the
white. Both of these emit a peculiar phos¬
phorus when in full flower, and, being ignited
at that time, the plants get in a blaze of flame,
and are still none the worse for it. Therefore,
I think it can justly claim the name of the
Burning Bush.— John Clark, Auchiermuchty,

12572.— Greenhouse smoke.— If smoke
and soot proceed from hi* grounds on to those
of his neighbour, I am under the impression
that “Duncan” can be compelled to abate the
nuisance; and it must be admitted that a
smoky greenhouse chimney is not the pleasantest
feature in a garden. However, I think he can
disarm all criticism by adopting either coke or
anthracite as a fuel. I was once in much the
same case myself, and found that this plan
obviated all disagreeables. If no smoke is ever
seen issuing from a chimney no complaint can
possibly arise.—K., Southend,

The Weather. —Although the frost has been
sufficient to allow of skating in the north, here,
in the extreme south-east, there has scarcely
been aay ice thicker than a shilling up to the
23rd inst. Temperature has been remarkably
even, not often rising over 40 degs., and but
seldom falling to 32 degs. The prevailing
characteristic of the weather for the past month
has been a persistent cloud canopy, through
which the sun finds it impossible to penetrate ;
indeed, the face of the luminary has not been
visible for more than a few minutes at a time
since Christmas Eve, which was the last sunny
day. On the other hand, the exemption from
fogs which we have enjoyed has been a matter
for thankfulness. But if the season has been
somewhat dull, what have been the conditions
in London, where winter discomforts have been
intensified by fogs of varying degrees of
density, and ranging through all the shades of
yellow and orange to midnight blackness ? It
is surprising that more Londoners do not
migrate into the outer suburbs, where they
might live so much more healthily and plea¬
santly than within the smoke radius. At this
time of year one envies the Americans their
beautiful winter climate, with its clear, crisp
atmosphere and brilliant sunshine ; but I forbear
to dilate upon the accompanying temperature
of 30 degs. or 40 degs. below freezing point,
although it is said to be pleasant e.nd invigora-
ating and to cause no inconvenience.—K.,
Southend .

THE VILLA GARDEN.

(Continued from page 692 )

The Cauliflower.

This is a summer and autumn vegetable, and
at that season fills the position occupied by the
Broccoli in winter and spring. The most valuable
crops are the early ones in spring and the late pro¬
ductions of autumn. In summer they are
frequently unsatisfactory during hot weather,
and, at any rate, when Peas and French Beans
are plentiful they are not so much in demand.

The first sowing is in a general way made
about the 25th of August, the time being varied
according to latitude, as experience may direct.
In some places the first week in September may
be early enough. Select an open situation
where the land is in good condition from a pre¬
vious manuring. If the weather is hot and the
land very dry, stir the surface and for a foot
or so in depth with the fork, and give water
enough to moisten it. Draw drills 9 inches
apart, and sow the seeds (which should have
been obtained from a good source) thinly.
Cover with nets to keep off birds ; and if the
weather continue hot shade a little by laying a
few branches with the leaves attached over the
net. It may not be necessary in any but
extreme cases to adopt this treatment, but
during the past autumn, which was very dry,
where a little extra trouble was taken to assist
the quick germination of the seed, the attention
was repaid in the extra strength of the plants.
As soon as the plants are up and are large
enough to move safely (which will be early ia
November), prepare one or more frames by
placing a layer of coal-ashes in the bottom, and
on the ashes, which should be beaten down
firmly with the back of the spade, place 5 inches
of light rich soil. Into the bed so formed
dibble the plants 3 inches apart, and give water
to settle the soil round them. During the winter
the frames should be fully ventilated when
the weather is mild, keeping out cold rains.
In times of severe frost scatter a little dry
litter or Fern over the lights. Sometimes
Cauliflower plants pass through the winter
safely pricked out at the foot of a south wall, or
on the south side of a thick hedge, sheltered in
severe weather by placing evergreen branches
among them. Another way of raising early
plants, and an excellent one ([ can speak
from experience, having practised it many
ears), ia to sow in heat about the first of
anuary, and treat the plants as wo Bhould
treat tender annuals. I am writing this on the
last day of the old year, and I have just made
my usual sowing of Cauliflowers. Tho sorts are
Veitch’s Early Forcing, Early London, Walcheren,
and Autumn Giant. The seeds are sown in
pans covered lightly with sandy soil, and placed
on a shelf in a house where the temperature is
about 60 dega. at night. When the young
plants appear they will occupy a position in the
full light near the glass, and w hen large enough
will be pricked off into 60-sized pots, one plant
in each pot. The soil and the pots will be
taken in the house to warm a little before the
potting takes place. The plants will be grown
on in the same temperature till March,
when they will be well established ; they
should then be hardened off, aud early in
April planted ont. This plan will not give
more trouble than is taken every spring
with the B&mo number of bedding plants,
and they do not bolt as sometimes happens
with the plants raised in August. Still another
way of raising the first early Cauliflower plants
may be described as intermediate between the
cool treatment first mentioned and the warm
plan la9t described. About the middle of
October sow the seeds in boxes and place in a
frame which rests on, say, an exhausted Melon
or Cucumber bed, and which still retains a
little of the summer’s warmth. Keep close till
the seeds germinate, then give air freely, and
when the plants are large enough pot off singly
in small pots. Winter on a shelf in the lightest
part of the greenhouse.

Planting under Handlights.

These are old-fashioned, but very excellent
contrivances, of which I suppose no one has
too many. About March, acting as all must
according to the character of the weather,
arrange the lights for the early crop in a warm,
runny, sheltered position, where the tsoil is deep
and lich, 3 feet apart each way, and plant four

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Jan. 31, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

617

plants under each light. As the season ad¬
vances ventilation will be required, either by
placing the lights on bricks, or, if the lights
have movable tops, by altering their position.
A few early Cauliflowers may generally be ob¬
tained by planting in front of a south wall almost
close to it, to take advantage of the sun's
warmth, which accumulates there both on the
soil and also in the air. Sach plants may be
further assisted by a ridge of soil in front, and
when the weather gets warm later in the season
thi? ridge of soil will help to confine the
soakings of liquid manure which good culti¬
vators will obtain by hook or by crook for their
early Cauliflowers.

Successional Sowings

Should be made in March in heat. A few seeds
may be sown among any other young crops, such
is early Horn Carrots, as the Cauliflowers will
be transplanted before any harm can be dene.
If it is not convenient to do this sow the seed
in a box, and place it where there is some
artificial warmth, harden off, and plant
out as seems necessary. The Autumn Giant
should be sown at this time for late
summer and autumn use. This is a very
valuable Cauliflower for hot seasons. It ta
very difficult with any other sort to secure
close firm hearts in August and September, but
the cross of the Broccoli, that is so apparent,
and which gives this kind its hardiness, almost
makes it heat and drought proof—hence its
great value, not only in the late autumn, but
also through the season from August up till
Christmas. Sow the Walcheren in April, and
again in May and June for autumn. This, with
the Autumn Giant, will furnish a supply till the
winter Broccoli turn in. In difficult situations
Cauliflowers are very uncertain ; they must have
plenty of rich manure. When hard put to it,
to get them good, l have opened a trench 4 feet
wide all across a quarter, worked in plenty of
manure, then drawn three drills at equal
distances apart in the trench, and sown seeds of
the Walcheren thinly. If it is necessary

To Sow in Trenches

This is a better plan than having single rows,
as the better soil and manure being in bulk will
retain the moisture longer, and the plants will
do better. When the seedlings are strong
enough to transplant, single them out, leaving
the strongest, and for this crop they may with
advantage be left much thicker than we should
plant them generally. Small white, close hearts
are in the hot weather more useful than
large ones, which nearly always develop a
tendency to open. Some of the plants thinned
out may be useful if planted under a north wall
in rather deep drills. This is acting on the
principle of never throwing a chance away.
The crop in the trench had better be started
about the first or second week in June, and if
well attended to, and grown without a severe
check, they will be sure to produce nice useful
hearts at a very small expense. And it is worth
something to feel that, under all circumstances,
we may rely upon any particular crop turning
out right.

Watering and Mulching.

Mulching with manure in hot summers is to
this crop invaluable, and, except io extreme
cases, will obviate the necessity for much
watering, though, of course, a good soaking of
liquid manure in a dry season will never come
amiss. The three sowings in the open air in
April, May, and June, with the previous
sowings under glass, will, if planted out in the
usual order when the plants are Urge enough,
furnish a supply from June till Christmas, if
need be ; indeed, I have had both the
Walcheren and the Autumn Giant till after
Christmas in good condition in a cold pit. The
distances between the rows, as well as the dis¬
tances between the plants in the rows, will vary
according to the situations and seasons, but 2
feet between the rows and 18 inches separating
the plants from each other in the rows, may be
taken as a good average distance.

Varieties.

The following are good Veitch’s Early
Forcing, Dean’s Snowball, Early London,
Walcheren, and the Autumn Giant. It is
hardly necessary for a private grower to Bave
seed, but it is very desirahle-4o obtain it from
a good firm. jgj tjze - [._■ ^0

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

These are unquestionably the best and also the
hardiest variety of the Cabbage tribe which we
possess. The plan of culture which I have
frequently adopted, and with great success, is as
follows :—In autumn, or early in winter, select
a clean piece of ground on which Potatoes have
been grown. If the soil is too light give it a
dressing of marl, which, by exposure to the
atmosphere, will become friable, and may then
be forked in with as much rotten manure as may
be requisite. The land should then be marked
into 4 ft. beds, and the seed sown as soon after
the middle of February as the soil is in proper
condition to receive it; sow thinly eo as to avoid
the trouble of thinning or transplanting into
nursery beds.

In arranging the rotation of crops, Potatoes,
next to Celery, are the best preparatory crop
for any of the Brassica tribe. In autumn, or
early in winter, trench or plough in deeply as
much manure as may be required. In the latter
part of May, when the land is in good condition,
make drills 12 inches deep and 3 feet apart.
On the first favourable occasion carefully lift
the plants singly with a trowel. The advan¬
tage of having applied a little marl in forming
the seed beds will now be apparent, as if
lifted carefully every plant will have a good
ball of earth attached to it. If this is done
in showery weather the plants will not show
any symptoms of flagging, and instead of
receiving a check their growth will in
reality be accelerated. The plants should be
put in along the bottom of the drills, 3 feet
apart. As the season advances they should be
earthed up by levelling down the ridges. This
will check the growth of weeds, stimulate that
of the plants, and prevent them from being
blown about by the wind—an important point
in the case of a plant which bears a heavy crop
at such a height above the ground. I have tried
many varieties, but in my opinion the Rosebery
is the best, and under ordinary circumstances
it will grow 4 feet high. We usually commence
gathering the produce in August, which is as
early as we require it. W. N.

The Lyon Leek. —Almost every writer on
choice vegetables makes mention of the gigantic
Leeks whioh are shown at the autumn exhibi¬
tions in the border counties, and deplores the
fact that the strains of seed which produce
them are kept in the hands of a few amateurs
whose names are known by their prize Leeks.
The variety just named is undoubtedly the
largest and heaviest of the race, and of great
thickness and length. By sowing the seed in
well prepared, light, rich soil early in February
under a hand-glass or frame, and gradually
hardening the young plants off, finally trans¬
planting them into hollow trenches on heavily-
manured rich soil, which has been deeply
trenched the previous autumn, Leeks of this
variety will be produced over 20 inches in
length and 3 inches in diameter, with a weight
of from 3 lb. to 5 lb. The special distinctive
quality of this variety is its hardiness, it having
been quite uninjured when unprotected with
the thermometer at about lOdegs, below zero.—
J. T., Kelso,

Tomato growing.— An article on this
subject by some experienced grower would be
very gratefully received by many novices like
myself. I have tried two years to grow this
fruit, which year by year is adding to its fanciers,
and have only succeeded in making a miserable
failure. This season I mean to devote a house
20 feet long by 10 feet wide entirely to the
culture of Tomatoes. I have this day sown seeds
of Acme, Trophy, Greengage, Vick’s Criterion,
and Hath way a Excelsior, just a pinch of each,
keeping a portion of each packet for a later
sowing. My object is to make my house pay
for money out of pocket. My house is a
span, stands north and south, it is built with
a perfect system of ventilation, top and sides ;
it is heated with hot water ; a bed of soil is
placed round the house in front of pipes and
kept up by a rockery of limestone; there is con¬
sequently no bottom-heat. The soil in which
the plants will be placed will consist of turves
from an old pasture, with mixture of sand, leaf-
mould, and spent horse manure. I mean to

put in the plants as soon as they are 6 or 7
inches high, and stake them with 6 foot poles.

1 do not, however, understand what is meant
by the single stem system ; if all side Bhoots are
taken off as they come, where will be the fruit ?
And if the points are pinched out at two
joints above the first blooms that show (as is
recommended by some), the pinching will pro¬
duce laterals, and if they are taken off what will
be the result ? If no one will give an article,
will Eomeone criticise my mode of proposed
operation, and so enlighten my Tomato dark¬
ness? If Mr. W. Barnes, the writer of answer
at page 589, No. 12442, would kindly send me
his address, I should take the liberty of asking
him a question in a private letter.—J. T.,
Preston,

12566 —Mercury, Good King Henry, or All

Good.— I see in answer to a query respecting Mercury you
mention that it can be cut and served like Spinach. It is
also good if you cut the flower stalks and peel them, and
serve in the same way as Asparagus. The stalk * should
not be allowed to beoomo too old before cutting. If quite
young I believe they need not be peeled before cooking.—
J. W. V. T.

12569.—Sowing Peas.— Your Peas should be sown
in the following order : Ringleader, Early Sunrise,
William I., Champion of England, British Queen, Ne Plus
Ultra.-J. C. C.

12573.— Grub on Onions. —Try the autumn sown,
they will often escape the grub, when the spring sown have,
the same season, been destroyed. The Reading and White
Spanish section can be sown os safely in autumn as the
Tripoli section. The latter are not good keepers.—L. C. K.

Heating small greenhouses.— I have
often noticed inquiries in Gardening as to the
best and cheapest way of heating small green¬
houses. The following may be of use and not
without interest to your numerous readers : I
have on one side of a 3 foot or 4 foot walk &
greenhouse and toolhouse where the fire is.
The greenhouse is a lean-to, 21 feet 6 inches
long, 7 feet broad, 6 feet high in front, and
S feet 6 inches at the back. On the other side
of the walk is a fern-house, span-roofed, 9 feet
long, 6 feet 9 inches wide, (5 feet high at the
sides, and 8 feet 6 inches in tho centre. Near
it is a frame (where last summer we grew some
fine Tomatoes) 6 feet long, 3 feet wide, and from

2 to 2 feet 6 inches high, now full of Pelar¬
goniums and Valottas. All are heated from a
coil, about 1 inch diameter, in the tool-house.
The temperature this New Year has been about
50 dogs, with the damper closed. While I am
writing, 8.15 p.m., it is just under 50 degs. in
the greenhouse, and 52 degs. in the fern-house,
all closed. By opening them we can get a very
much greater heat. The cost is as follows :
We got twelve hundredweight of broken coke,
called “hen briese,” on New Year’s day. This
cost 3s. at the gas works, carriage and getting
it, Is. 9d.—4s. 9d. I believe the fire has never
been out day or night, and to-night there is
sufficient left for another day (twenty-three
days). This averages just under 2^d. for
twelve hours. On a former occasion it was
2 £d. I think it would be difficult to get a
cheaper way of heating.—J. B.

12522.— Heating houses. —First find the
superficial glass surface of greenhouse, also
cubical contents of part below level of side
lights, &c., which is generally enclosed with
brick or wood, and then apply following rules,
which will give necessary amount of pipe to
heat greenhouse, &c., to any required tem¬
perature : One foot of pipe surface, at an excess
temperature of 125 degs. to 130 degs., will heat
6 ^ cubic feet of air 30 degs. per minute ; 1 square
foot of glass will cool 1 cubic feet of air as
many degrees per minute as the internal tem¬
perature exceeds that of the external air. Hence,
1 foot of pipe surface may be provided for even
5 feet of glas» where the temperature to be main¬
tained does not exceed 30 degs. above the
external air. Should the temperature be re¬
quired at an excess of 40 degs., divide the
superficial extent of glazing by 3£ ; if 50 degs.,
by 3 ; and if at 60 degs. above the external air
by 2£. A more accurate approximation is, to
the whole extent of glazing exposed to the
external air add one-tnird and multiply the
sum by the number of degrees the temperature
of the house is to be maintained above that of
the external air. The product, divided by 190,
will give the quantity of piping to be provided
estimated in superficial feet; or by 160 for feet
run of 4-inch pipe. For the parts not glazed
allowance must be made also—1 foot of 4-inch
pipe for levery ICO- cubic feet of ah thus
enclosed. —A. E. A., Ipswich,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

618

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Jan. 31, 1885.

12523.—Cesspools.— Defer the cleaning oat
of the ce 8 apool as late in March as you can, and
then take out the liquid (if any), and, if not too
strong, distribute it among Strawberry beds,
Black Currant and Gooseberry trees, in suffi¬
cient quantities to reach the roots; if too strong
it can be diluted, and in this state it will do no
harm to any crops. The sediment or thick part
should be taken to a heap of soil, and well
mixed with it. A better plan still is to form a
ridge of soil one barrow-load thick into a circle
or square. Then place the sewage in the middle,
and when it is all brought to this place throw
the soil round the outside over it. This will
prevent the escape of any obnoxious smell. In
six weeks’ time turn tho hoap of stuff over, and
add more soil if necessary. In a few weeks
after this it may be used as a manure for any
vacant ground in the kitchen garden, at the rate
of one barrow-load to every two square yards of
ground.—J. C. C.

- Apply it to the roots of your Currants

and Raspberry bushes, or if not required there
it can be spread on any vacant piece of grouni,
allowed to dry a little, and then dug in. A few
years ago I tried it on some common Laurels,
and the growth they made after its application
was something fine. Since then, if I have any
to spare when clei n ig our cesspool, I have
always given them a share. I may state that
our soil ij of the same nature as Newtowns,
and in Perthshire.—W. G.

12517.—Barth closet manure.— There
arc few plants commonly grown in gardens that
this will not benefit. Hardy flowers generally
like it, especially those of a strong growing
nature, such as Phloxes, Roses, Delphiniums,
Clematises, &c., and in a moderate way it may
form a part of the compost used for many plants
grown in pots. In vegetable culture too it has
great value. The proper way to use it is to lay
it up in a heap until it comes into mould, when
there is nothing offensive about it, and it may
be dug in with the soil or used as a top dressing.
For pot plants take about three spadesful to a
barrow load of soil.—J. C. B.

- The manure from earth closets is cer¬
tainly of some value in the garden, whether
incorporated with the soil or used as a surface
dressing. Some years ago I had the manure
from four of these closets for the garden. I
used to employ it chiefly for the surface dressing
of crops in the kitchen garden, and a powerful
fertiliser it proved to bo. I always added four
parts of soil to one of manuro for surfacing
crops, and it proved to be very invigorating to
such as Peas, Scarlet Runners, and the old
stumps of exhausted Cabbages. It was laid on
tho snrface about 2 inches thick. In a poor
soil there is hardly a crop grown in the kitchen
garden that would not be benefited by it if
applied when the young crop is woll above the
surface. For digging in, so as to mix with the
soil, ono peck of the manure to every two
square yards of ground will be sufficient in all
ordinary soils.—J. C. C.

- It may be used with great advantage to most of

the crops in Kitchen garden if woll mixed with the soil
For growing grand Leeks, Celery, Onions, Cabbage, and
such like, it is second to none as a manure. Keep it
aw ay from Potatoes, Carrots, and most root crops os I
have found they don't thrive in it.—W. G.

BIRDS.

QUESTION.

12C54 —Canary. —*'M. D.” would feel very greatly
obliged if any reader will give advice or information re¬
specting the feathers coming ofl tho top and back of the
head of asmall canary, said to be of South African extrac¬
tion. The bird still sings well, and is fed on millet seed ;
some other seeds have been tried but were not liked by
the bird. It is not moulting, and seems in good health.
Care is taken of the bird during the night, the cage being
covered from cold and gas. ^ e

REPLY.

12514.— Canary losing feathers.— You
should give your bird some flax seed and a
teaspoontul of bread and milk warm in the morn¬
ing for the wheezing in the throat. Put a cover
on two sides of the cage. My bird was affected
like yours and I found he got better at once
when his cage was kept partly covered. One
cause of the feathers coming off would be that
you put no sand or earth in the bottom of the
cage. I give canary, rape, and millet to mine,
maw seed only when moulting, and very often
lettuce and a little oatmeal. On no account
give hemp.—E. G.

Digitized by Qq

gle

POULTRY.

Does poultry keeping pay ?—In answer
to the long statement and balance-sheet pub¬
lished by “Nil Desperandum” in your last
issue, may I be allowed to give my experience,
which is probably the experience of thousands
in country parishes far distant from the large
centres of population ? Poultry keeping may
pay or not, but in our case the advantage is
generally if they are kept for home consumption.
If for profit on a sale the profit is very trifling,
as there is great difficulty in Belling advan¬
tageously. Your correspondent bases the profit
on eggs—583 at l£d. and 21. each, £4 Is. lO^d.
Our experience is that when they are very
numerous the regular price is 7d. per dozen, at
which price enormous quantities are in this
neighbourhood put in lime-water for use in
pheasant rearing. The price through this
month has been Is. per dozen to sell at the shops
in the towns and villages, and the highest
price obtainable about Is. fid. in November and
December, so that taking the average price
through the year, it would certainly not be
more than lOd. I may add that I have lately
had the pick of poultry in a farmyard at 3s. 3d.
a couple. Such a balance-sheet would certainly
bo a novelty in— West Dorset.

QUESTIONS.

12655.—Cramp In chickens.— Could any one give nio
any information how to cure cramp, or a kind of weakness
in the legs of young chicks? I havo some three weeks’
old, they have made good growth, are fed on warm mash
in the morning and plenty cf grits at intervals during the
day, a little fresh greens every day, and plenty of fresh
water. They arc kept dry and warm, but seem to linger
for a few days and then die. When affected they cannot
open tho f oot or stand up. Any cure or prevention will be
gratefully accepted.—W. W.

12656.— Fusty egg's.— Can any reader sav what is the
cause of eggs fresh gathered being fusty ?-Mrs. Binstbad.

12657.—Fowls and wind eggs.-Mv fowls drop
wind eggs when on the roost. Can any of the readers of
Gardrning give me advice on tho * subject? -Joshua
Jackson.

REPLIES.

12510.—Chickens dying.— I think I can
tell “P. M.” the cause of his chickens dying,
as I went through the same experience. I used
to feed mine in pretty much the same way, took
no end of trouble, and lost no end of chickens.
An experienced gardener to whom I spoke of
my difficulties told me that I was just doing
what would kill the chicks. “ Bread,” he said,
“ is poison to them ; never give them any in
any shape ; it turns sour, creates acidity, which
brings on looseness of the bowels ; this goes on
to diarrhoea, then inflammation sets in (which
accounts for the body getting swollen and
black). No soppy food—keep to dry food; a
chopped egg for their first meal, then cut grits,
then whole grits, and so on till they can eat
with the other fowls. A little finely-chopped
meat (cooked) is good now and then if you
cannot let them out in a place where the mother
can scratch for worms and grubs.” I have fol¬
lowed this advice with the greatest success, and
for the last two years have not lost one chicken.
My run is on pure clay, and rather damp, and
I don’t attempt very early broods. I don*fc set
any liens before February.—A. C.

12560. -Rearing turkeys.— Hatch turkeys the
beginning of May, feed for the first two davs on hard-
boiled, chopped eggs, for ten days on oatmeal moistened
with water, afterwards on fine-chopped nettles, mixed with
oatmeal. If possible give milk or butter-milk to drink
and sometimes pepper among the food. A dry exposure
for run. Tho Norfolk Bronze is the hardiest and largest
turkey.—F. 8.

12559.—Fowls and Privet berries.— Wo have some
old Privet fences that have been very full of berries, hut
are now getting cleared off by the blackbirds, which I
often see feasting upon them. I have also gathered a
quantity for a caged blackbird that I keep, and he appears
to leave anythisg elso for them ; therefore they are harm-
less for fowls to eat.— East Suffolk.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Missing parcel.— A libel, addressed to the Editor,
bearing the “ Leighton Buzzard and Stewkly ” post¬
marks of January 19th, has been delivered with the Post
Office Information that it was "found in the Western
Central without contents.”

Boxbs and boxing (7. G. Cork). —Your article and
drawings are not sufficiently clear. The latter should
show full}' the mode of working, and the explanation, while
concise, ought to be full enough to make the proposal in¬
telligible to the reader. We have been unable to follow

your description.- Pear trek (Seckle ).-The tree will

probably heal over.- Incurators (Mr. Christopher).—

Your letter is an advertisement. If you wish to advertiso

the article you can do so through tho publisher.-

Address {IV. A iyhtingale ).—You will probably find the
/i? w ,n t,ardcn Annual," which enumerates nearly

all the nurserymen and gardeners.- Variegated Mailk

(A. O .).—The variegated Maple is usually propagated in

nurseries by grafting on the green-leaved kind. It may
also be propagated by outtings inserted under a bell glass
in the open border in autumn.

Names Of plants — Ignoramus, J. M. —Goldfus-ia

isophylla.- Subscriber, IV. G .—Lophospennum sea miens,

a twining plant, having rose-pink flowers similar to the

Foxglove.— C. J .—Aspidium angulare proliferum.-

X. 0.—Common Sage; Salvia officinalis.- G. W. —1,

Sericographis Gbiesbreghtiana ; 2, Abutilon streatum ; 3,

Pteris cretica ; 4, Send fronds with spores at the back.-

J. A.—1, Cupressus Lawsoniana ; 2, Habrothamnus fosci-
culatus; 3, Species of Mesembryantheraum ; 4, Anthorlcum

comosum variegatum.- R. \V. Green. — Poinsetti a

pulcherrima.

Catalogues received. —Description and List of
Early and Summer-flowering Chrysanthemums and Semi -
early or October Blooming Kinils. W. Piercy, West Road,
Forest Hill, S.E.- Retail List of Select Flower and Vege¬

table Seeds, Lilies, Gladioli, and other Bulbs. Wm. Bull,

F.L.S., &c., King’s Road, Chelsea, S. W.- Garden Seeds ,

<£v., Peter Lawson and Son, Limited, Edinburgh.- Neva

and Select Vegetable Seeds. P. Shilling, Hartlo-wiotney,

WiachOold.- New, Rare, and Choice Flov:tr Seeds.

Thomas S. Ware, Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham.-

Spring Catalogue. George Bruce, Market Street, Aber¬
deen.—-/Vice Show and Fancy Pansies. R. Mann, Shod-
well, Leeds.

ROSES ! ROSES !^OSES !

1 00 000 PLANTS to select from, best

sorts and true to name (five first prizes were
awarded to these Roses at the Grand National Rose Show,
Crystal Palace); 20 choice standards, 12s 6d.; 24 choice half
standards, 12a. 6d.; 50 choice dwarfs, 12a 6d.; 24 choice
dwarf Teas and Noisettes. 12s 6d. ; 12 choice climbing
Roses, 5e. My selection. Cash with order. Hundreds of
testimonials. Catalogues free.—JAMES WALTERS. Rose
Grower and Nureer yman. Mount Radford, Exeter.

ROSES! ROSES! ROSES!

Kft CHOICE PERPETUALS sent on receipt

of remittance for 2is. Purchaser’s selection from 400
best varieties. List of names on application. 24 choice
standards, or half standards. 21s. ; purchaser’s selection.
JAMES WALT MRS. Mountltadford Nursery, Exeter. Devon.

DEACHEY’S PRIZE ROSES.—ChTeap to clear.

" 20,000 grand dwarf bush plants, best show varieties,
truly named, 5s. dozen, 20s. 50, 38s. 100. This advertisement
must be quoted list.—R. W. BEACHEY, Kingskerswell,

DEACHEY’S BEGONIA SEED.—Now ready.

•L* All who saw my superb collection in bloom said that it
was unequalled. Finest double, 2 b. 6d. and 5s.; finest single.
Is.. Is. 6u., 2s. 6d. Full directions for raising on each packet.
R. W. BEACHEY, Kingskerswell, Devon.

UEACHEY’S CHRYSANTHEMUMS.—Best

novelties, cuttings, 3a. 6d. dozen; best in curved Japanese
and Pompon, Is. 3d. dozen.—Catalogue, Kingskerswell. Devon.

DEACHEY’S SWEET VIOLETS.—Twelve

splendid clumps, full of buds, six best sorts, 7s. 6<1 ; good
plants in bud, 3s. 6d. dozen. Catalogue of 26 varieties, with
instructions for cultivation, also okoioe Carnations and Hoses,
2<1., free.—R. W. BEACHEY, Kingskerswell, Devonshire.

B EACHEY’S GIANT LILY OF THE

VALLEY, Berlin variety, Is. 3d. dozen. 7a. fd 100. free ;
Gladiolus Brenchleyensis, fine roots, Ik. 2d. dozen, €s. 9d.
100, free: finest mixed, various colours. ?s. dozen; finest
named, from 5s. dozen.—Kingskerswell, Devonshire.

DEACHEY’S PANSY “SEED; unequalled

-L* quality, Bhow and fancy, Is., 2s. 6d.; Giant Polyanthus,
7d. and Is. ; Hybrid Primrose, very scarce Including new
shades of blue, 2s. 6<1. packet.—R. W. BEACHEY, Kingskers-
well, Devonshire.

ULMS, ALDER, SYCAMORES, BIRCH,

d-J 6 feet to 7 feet, 5s. dozen; Poplar, Black Italian. Bal¬
sam, and Ontario, 8 feet, 4s. per dozen; oval-leaf Privet,
2 fe9t, 6s. per 100; Ivies, 2 feet to 3 feet. 8s.; 3 feet to 4 feet,
16s. per 100. Extra strong Forest Trees, 6s per dozen.—
8TANSFIELD BROTHERS, 97, 8t. Lukes' Ro ad, Southp ort.

T ARCH 1 LARCH 1 1 LARCH ! ! !—Special

-LI Cheap Offer to Clear Ground, from 8 feet upwards, at
20s. per 1,000. Also other Forest Troes.-GEO. CHORLEY,
Coaster's Nursery, Midhurst.

1QR HO ft CHOICE HARDY PLANTS at

J half-price during JanuaryClove Pink,
Mrs. SinkinB, double Violets. Pansies, Wallflowers, Poly¬
anthuses, Irises, double white Rocket, Daisies (white and red),
Myosotis (Forget-me-not). — WEALE, Florist, Carnation
Gardens. CleyeAon Road. Taplo w. B ucks

DOSES (Dwarfs), a speciality.—Strong plants
■*-” of Hybrid Perpetuals, including the following Teas:
Belle Lyonnaise. Cheshunt Hybrid, Gloire de Dijon,
Lamarque, Isabella Sprunt, and Red Gloire, 6s. per dozen,
45s. per 100. Catalogues free on application.If not satis¬
factory the money returned in full.—H. HUTCHINGS,
Rose Grower, Uxbridge.

ft.RAPES THIS YEAR.—Fruiting Canes,

7s 6d. and 10a. 6d. each; Planting Canes, 3s. 6d. to 7s 8d.
each; leading kinds, perfectly ripened without bottom heat:
Duke of Buccleuch, grafted, 15s. each.—JAMES DICKSON
& SO N 8, Newton Nuraerie s, Chester. _

DUDDING ROSES.—Strong Manetti stocks,

■LJ for budding in summer, 4s. per 100, 2s. 6d. for 50, la. M.
for 25. Package free; cash with order.—W. LOWE, Rose
Grower. Beeston. Notts.

C|INGLE DAHLIA SEED, saved from certi-

L' ficated vrrieties, 6d. packet; Nicotians affinis. fragrant
white. Now is the time to sow to obtain good plants.

A QUILEGIA CALIFORNIA HYBRIDAL

D- Verv choice varieties, fid nnckah • Annlloiriii olanitnlma.

MOW IS THE TIME TO PURCHASE

POULTRY for STOCK and EXHIBITION PUR¬
POSES.— Mr. ROBERT R. FOWLER, Prebeudal Poultry
Farm, Aylesbu ry, is a bout issuing a new and fuller edition of
his DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE of the Tbirty-scrrc
DISTINCT BREEDS kept by him, with "HINT8 ON
REARING AND MANAGEMENT, Ao ." and will send copy,
on receipt of stamp, to any addresp, A grand lot of bird* do*
for sale, and some cheap bargains Mr. Fowler apologises to
applicants who have behn unavoidably kept waiting through
the exhaustion of the last edition, which, owing to gre»t
demand; rm opt sooner than was anticipated.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

i

4

i

6

I

1

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

FEBRUARY 7, 1885.

No. 309.

SHOWY FLORISTS’ CATALOGUES.

I hub that the strictures of “An Enthusiast
m Gardening ” will find an echo in many hearts
scored with disappointment of a similar kind.
I see in imagination a thousand enthusiastic
bat disappointed gardeners, male and female,
mile with grim eati* faction over his bilious
little tilt against those horrid misleading cata¬
logues with their emerald green 7-inch Peas,
tliirteen Peas to a pod, 10-inch Beans, and Cine¬
rarias, Primulas, Cyclamen, Calceolarias, Pan¬
sies, Ac., of such exquisite regularity, size,
colour, and perfection as ordinary mortal man
never saw. Alas ! is there not a cause ? And
Tet,^ 0 Enthusiast 1 be not too severe.
Possibly the fault of exaggeration may not be
» great as you think ; and very possibly that
“good gardener *' of yours has more to do with
jour want of success than you are aware
of, or than he is willing to admit. The
suiter of this may also lay claim to
being an enthuai&st in gardening. It is some
twenty years now since he turned his sword
into a spade and trowel and began to dibble
among the flower pots, and he may tell his
brother enthusiast that he has, though not until
after many failures and mistakes, both seen and
grown flowers and vegetables honestly equal to
those illustrated in the most extravagant of
catalogues. He can endorse the editor's re¬
mark that “ specimens are sometimes produced
even superior to those figured.” Are such
illustrations, then, misleading ? In one sense
they undoubtedly are. They leave so much to
be inferred that enthusiastic but inexperienced
persons are apt to imagine that they have but
to get a packet or two of the much-belauded
•eeds, and their gardens and greenhouses will in
due season break out all over into similarly
gorgeous plants and flowers. They overlook
the fact, which is kept in the background, that
the specimens figared are exceptional, the
result of exceptionally good culture and of loDg
experience, and, greedily swallowing the tempt¬
ing bait, meet with the fate of all silly fishes.
But think, O Enthusiast! can you reasonably
expect that those who compile catalogues with
* view to sell their seeds, Ac., will go to the
expense of having any but their most perfect
specimens drawn and chromo-lithographed in
this gorgeous and overwhelming manner ? Not
that I admire and commend this system of
puffery ; but are not you, and people like you,
the very persons who make it worth while to
have this done ? You yourself admit that, in
»pite of repeated disappointments, you still per¬
mit these pretty pictures to seduce you into buy¬
ing expensive novelties. Yon try and try again,
you fail and fail again, and then yon grumble.
Surely this is unreasonable. It displays, at all
events, an amount of credulity on your part
which no one but the compiler of a catalogue,
Perhaps, would believe in ! But the average
Briton likes being gulled. Has not one of our own
prophets said that these tight little islands are
peopled by 30 millions of inhabitants, “ mostly
fools?” And is not this witness true? It is
like Bxrnum’s white elephant. First, the
crowds went to see that it teas white, and
then, when the papers said it was all a sham,
more still went to see that it was not white, and
to have the pleasure of saying “What a humbug
—why it isn’t white at all 1” Think you that
Professor Bawlaway could sell his bread pills
warranted to cure everything that flesh is
heir to, or Messrs. Shouton and Cracker
would spend thousands in illustrating and
advertising their Peas and Pumpkins, if this
were not the case ? They R k now well with whom
they have to do, and that it is not the meek
man who sells his wares best, but the one who
zhouts the loudest and lets off the most magni¬
ficent crackers. Big red posters—Btaring adver¬
tisements—gorgeous pictures—these are the
things which carry the British public by storm,
and lead on to fortune. O Enthusiast! be
wiser for the future, and let not the big Goose¬

berries tempt yon. But if you must swallow
them do so cum grano salis , and perhaps then
they will do you no harm. When next you read
“ Spider's Potatoes are the best l” try a new
plan. Venture to doubt this statement and you
will possibly be none the worse. Why even
Spider himself, could you quietly button-hole
him, would most likely confess to yon in con¬
fidence that his Potatoes are very ordinary
Potatoes indeed—Potatoes such as might be
bought almost anywhere. But he would add,
“ What is a man to do ? IFb the system, my dear
sir—the system. I must do as others do, or I
shall never sell anything. Potatoes have eyes,
but the British public have no eyes for anything,
no matter how good it is, unless advertised and
puffed. They cannot, and will not, see that a
Potato of which a magnificent picture has been
made is no better than the Fame Potato without
these flamiDg appendages.” But enough—why
waste words ? There will be always fools, and
as long as fools exist quacks will fatten on them.
It is a mad world, my masters ! Only, I
beseech you, sirs—you who really love flowers,
and the sweet and precious things that deck
our fields and gardens—have as little to do with
quackery and exaggeration in the selling of
them as possible. To say nothing of morality,
it may do very well for the vendors of pills,
powders, fruit salts, hair renewers, rat killers,
and such like, but our sweet flowers—does it
not seem in their case almost like desecration ?
Devon. R. W. B.

Might I be allowed to say a few words in
defence of onr florists, as I think that the
remarks of “ Enthusiast,” as to the impossibility
of growing their products anything like the
illustrations in their catalogues, are very mis¬
leading, and they also cast a slur on the abilities
of the many gardeners who have grown them
to such perfection as to in many cases far eclipse
the illustrations. And I think if he would pay
a visit to some of the firms who make a
specialty of flower seeds, and judge from them
whether they can or not, and not judge from
his own standpoint, it would be much fairer. I
think it is either a case of “sour Grapes ” (cannot
grow them) or else one of “too many cooks
spoil the broth,” as his gardener, with proper
appliances at his disposal, and without being
interfered with, ought to do what other men
can do. I wish to say that they can be, and are,
grown to perfection by men who have not the
best means at their disposal, and they are
enthusiasts in gardening ; but enthusiasm will
not grow them. They require a thorough
knowledge of their business, and must use it,
and be willing to give both time and trouble, as
they are not grown in a day. 1 have always
heard the seeds of onr best firms praised and
recommended, and it is the first time I have
heard any disparaging remarks in reference to
them. I think many gardeners will join me in
the belief that the remarks of “ Enthusiast ”
are unjust, and also join me in wishing our
Beedsmeu and florists every success in the future
for the praiseworthy manner in which they have
studied the wants of gardeners, and for the
great improvements which have been made of
late years in vegetables, fruits, and flowers. I am
not in any way connected with the trade ; but I
send the above, and ask for fair-play for this
deserving body of men, and beg to subscribe
myself another “Enthusiast,” but, at the same
time A Working Gardener.

Your correspondent, “An Enthusiast in
Gardening,” stems most unfortunate in getting
such unsatisfactory results for all his trouble
and outlays ; but is he sure that he or his

of the seeds or plants under his charge ? l<t is
one thing to grow plants, and another thing to
grow them properly. It is not only the soil
that the seeds are sown In, but also the manner

in which they are sown, that has so much to do
with the success or failure of plants. Garden¬
ing Illustrated is, without doubt, a great help
to many of our readers, but judgment and a
certain amount of skill are required to grow
anything like those we see illustrated in tome
of our florists’ catalogues. These things are
got to such perfection by careful study ot their
requirements and constant attention ; in fact, to
grow plants to anything like perfection, one
must pay great attention to what many people
call little matters. Many a pan or box of seed
fails to do well or even come up at all through
neglect of these little matters. How often ao
we see seed sown in soil quite unfit for it, or
plants put into soil in which it is quite impos¬
sible for them to do well ? When we think how
often this is done we shall not be surprised at so
many failures and disappointments. A visit to
some of our large shows should he enough to
convince all unbelievers of what skilful gardeners
can produce. I enclose some blooms of Cinerarias,
some of them nearly 3 inches in diameter. 1
have several dozen plants, many of them in full
bloom; one I measured this morning stands 3 feet
2 inches high, and is 2 feet 1 inch through it;
the others are rather smaller, but most ot them
in Nos. 12 and 16 pots—in fact, they are the
admiration of all who see them. These are raised
from seed from a London firm. My Primulas, ah o
from the same firm, are very fine, and well worth
the carethat haB been bestowed upon them. 1
believe, by buying seed from good firms, a skilfi 1
gardener may ] reduce flowers quite as good as
those illustrated in some of our florists’ cata¬
logues. I have had some splendid things from
seed that I have purchased. There has been so
much said lately about seed sowing that I need
not take up space in your valual le paper, tut I
would advise all who wish to grow plants to
perfection to attend well to their little wants.

1/all Place , Cranleigh. H. Dyer.

[Most of the blcoms sent mrasored between 2 inches
and 8 inches across, one was 3 inches all but one-eighth.
We may add that we do not Ihink (he blooms are any
the better for being so big ; on the contrary, they are, in
our opinion, decididly inferior In grace to many specimens
of the normal sizo.— Er.]

Writing with reference to the letter of “ An
Enthusiast in Gardening,” our correspondent
“L. C. K.” mentions the name of one particu¬
lar firm, and states that during seven years’
dealings with them he has had little, if any,
certain cause for dissatisfaction. “ Nor,” he
continues, “have I ever had good reason to
think that they intentionally exaggerate. Com¬
petition makes florists publish illustrations of
the best obtainable specimens. There is often a
vast difference between results obtained under
special conditions of culture and those got from
ordinary practice. A first-class gardener is too
often prevented by lack of time when work
presses from giving that care and attention in
each case, to the multitudinous objects under his
care, requisite for securing the best possible
obtainable results. With respect to the Primula
seed not coming up, failure of seeds to germi¬
nate is not always (I might venture to say it is
seldom) the fault of the florist. I have seen two
lots of seed sown from the same packet, at the
same time, and in the same manner, the treat¬
ment from the time of sowing to that of the
germination of the seed being in both cases the
same ; yet in one seed pan there waB a perfect
success, whilst in the other there was as entire
a failure.” __

12502.—Mowing* Machines.—I quite
agree with “ L. C. K.,” that Green’s lawn
mowers are the best. I have had seventeen
years’ experience in working the. mowing
machines. Having been jobbing for nine years
I have been brought into contact with many
different machines ; but not one, in my opinion,
can stand the wear and tear like Green’s. For
a single-handed place Green’s 12 Inch mower is
excellent.— Baliiam.: ri g i n d I fre n

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UNIVERSITY

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URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

620

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 7, 1885.

THE KITCHEN CARDEN.

EARLY POTATOES.

Nothing among vegetables perhaps is more
prized and enjoyed than early Potatoes.
To produce these many schemes are resorted
to, but after all there are none so simple
and effectual as the manure bed, the heat
from which costs little or nothing beyond the
labour of carting and putting the manure
together for the purpose of fermentation. The
chief point is to havo it sweet and free from
noxious gases—a condition into which it may
easily be got by collecting a good bulk together,
and turning it over a few times before it is used.
This will have the effect of bringing it into the
condition referred to, and, by moderating the
heat at first starting, of making it more
regular, and when so prepared it lasts
considerably longer — a very important con¬
sideration. Fresh-gathered leaves fallen from
Oaks, which ferment less violently than
manure, help in keeping a steady heat,
and are valuable for mixing with it in the pro¬
portion of about one-half. Tan also is good,
nearly or quite equal to leaves, and is a material
that almost anyone near a fellmonger’s yard
may obtain, as he is generally glad to get rid
of it and give it away to all comers. For the
first or very early crop of Potatoes a frame is
desirable, but for a later lot it may very well be
done without, as all they require when the
weather gets a little warmer is shelter from
frost; and, if protected from its biting influence,
the more air they get the better and more
abundant will the produce be. Many fail with
Potatoes in keeping them too close, when they
are drawn up weakly; for, though they will
bear and enjoy artificial heat at the root, they
do not like much at the top. In the planting
of Potatoes under the protection of a frame
they Bhould have about 9 inches of light, rich
soil, and be placed about 3 inches deep, 6 inches
apart, and with 1 foot or 15 inches between the
rows ; as soon as planted Radishes may be sown
broadcast over the soil and slightly covered, aB
these will be fit to pull and may be used before
the Potatoes require the room and want earth¬
ing up. This can be done by adding another
inch of fresh soil, and if watered immediately
after the tubers will swell rapidly and soon be
fit for digging. To grow Potatoes without a
frame, all that is necessary is to dig out a pit in
the ground in a warm, sheltered spot, to hold
the manure to afford bottom-heat, and when
they come up they can be easily protected with
mats supported by a few rods to bear up the
weight. For a still later lot, to come in before
those in the open are fit, bottom-heat is not
requisite, and if covered at night they always
pay well for the labour. D.

seed, as in many cases it will result in .failure ;
besides, I find that by getting good plants
fresh from the nursery and managing them pro¬
perly they very soon come up alongside those
raised in pots. Mine grew so rapidly that I
had to earth them up once a week instead of
once a fortnight, as recommended in the article.
It would be interesting to your readers gene¬
rally if those who should try to grow Leeks as
directed would relate their experience at some
futuro time, and thus add something to the
store of horticultural knowledge which your
journal is doing so much to disseminate.—W.
Hewitt, Maryhill t Glasgow.

REPLY.

12463.—Jensen’s Potato culture.—I
very much regret “ Market Grower’s ” query
has been overlooked. The main feature of
Jensen’s system consists in repeatedly earthing
up until the Potatoes are standing on the top
of a steep ridge with deep furrows between the
rows. It is contended that the spores of the
fungus first attack the upper part of the plant,
and are washed down by the rains, which
usually precede or accompany any rapid develop¬
ment of disease, and that by the time the
disease manifests itself the tops have acquired

drooping tendency, which is accentuated by
the steep ridges and deep furrows, and that the
fungus spores instead of being washed by the
rains to the roots of the Potato, are precipi¬
tated into the deep furrows where they remain
harmless. The steep ridges and repeated
earthings necessitate wide culture, which in
itself is a great advantage.—E. Hobday.

Growing Leeks for Exhibition.— It was
with pleasure I read this article by “ North
Briton” in Gardening, and, having grown Leeks
for exhibition according to the directions given,

I can bear testimony to the excellence of the
system. Being an enthusiastic grower of
vegetables for competition I was anxious to find
out the way to grow extra large Leeks, and
after many fair attempts in the usual way I at
last procured the article upon Leek growing,
published by Mr. Cuthbertson last year, and
which I am sure many an amateur will be glad
to see appearing in your columns, as no other
vegetable appears to be more universally grown
for competition than the Leek. With the
exception of using a little more hot manure,
and not having the soil for growing prepared
long before hand, I followed the directions
given with results far beyond my expectations.
At our local Bhow I succeeded in gaining the
first prizes with ease, besides being complimented
by the judges, who said that if I had shown
them at Glasgow show a week previous they
would have been first there. With the experience
of last year, and everything better prepared
this year, I hope to make a considerable ad¬
vance on previous efforts by following out the
method given. I should say that I do not grow
them from seed, but get them direct from the
nursery about the end of April. Indeed, I
think that amateurs like myself, who have to
be away from home all day, and cannot give
them the attention they need in their young
state, should not attempt to grow them from

Digitized by

Gougle

ROSES.

Tea Roses In winter.—I have gathered Tea Hobos
in December and I am gathering them still, though not so
good as before Christmas. The kind that stays bo long with
me iB Madame Falcot, on a south wall, but not sheltered
at the Hides. The soil is a warm and poor sandy one on a
somewhat elevated spot, but not near the sea.—R.

REPLIES.

12630.—Rose for greenhouse wall.—

‘ Country Rector ” might plant either a Gloire
de Dijon, or a climbing Reve d’Or, or both, on
his outside wall of greenhouse ; these will grow
freely. Why not plant as well Jasminum
officinale (White Jasmine) and the Yellow
Jasmine, which would bloom in midwinter?
Honeysuckle, blue and white Clematis, and
Crataegus pyracantha, which produces red
berries in winter, would all grow well and
uickly. I think the old-fashioned herbaceous
lowers, such as Foxgloves, Wallflowers,
Delphiniums, Sunflowers, and PhloxeB, would
look best on the border he mentions. If the
border were mine, I should plant now (pro¬
viding always there is no frost) Forget-me-nots
and Silene pendula; these will commence to
bloom about March and last until June. Then
I should plant all those I have mentioned above,
and in the summer plant Chrysanthemums. As
these plants will not like to be disturbed when
once planted, they should not be put too close
together, or they will choke one another.
Possibly “ Country Rector ” would prefer the
bedding-out Bystem. In that case put in now
some Myosotis (Forget-me-not) and Silene.
When these have bloomed plant out Gera¬
niums, Calceolarias, &c. In the autumn plant
Christmas Roses for bloom at Christmas, and
in November plant Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocuses,
Narcissi, and Daffodils for spring bloom. If
the border is in the shade a very pretty fernery
might be made.— One who loves Flowers.

12429.— Rose cuttings in bottles.— The Rose cut
tings should not dip more than an inch and a half into
the water. A stone bottle should be used, or a black bottle,
which is usually of a deep non-actiuio yellow. The whole
should be exposed to light.— W. I. Whylook.

-You ought to have taken your bottle cuttings in

June or July. They then would have had good roots in
about six weeks. Had you taken them even in August they
would have rooted before the winter, but October was
altogether too late. I have heard that a coloured glass
bottle Is better than a white one, but what I have used,
and with success, is a prune jar of common white glass.
A few lumps of charcoal in the water keeps it sweet.—
A. H. F. _

Erratum.— In an article, " Apples from the Mid¬
lands.” in last week's issue, the variety " Tower of
Olamis ” was inoorrectly printed as “ Turner of Glanies.’

Linum Trlgynum.— 'The Linura Trigvnum figured
in last week'8 Gakdekiso was drawn in December in
Messrs. James Vcitch and Sons’ nursery, at Chelsea.

INDOOR PLANTS.

WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS.—II.
The Bouvardia.

The Bouvardia may be taken as next in
value as a winter-flowering plant, immense
quantities of the bloom being produced and
employed by florists all through the season.
The varieties candidiasima, Vreelandii, longi-
flora, Hogarth, and elegana are the most
generally used for this purpose, but nearly all
the varieties are amenable to winter blooming,
and though the flowers vary considerably in
character, the culture of all the varieties is
nearly identical. Cuttings are struck in the
spring or summer, growing points being in¬
serted in pots of very sandy soil, surfaced with
pure sand, and two-thirds full of drainage.
These are placed under glasses in a propagating
house, and kept close till struck. Bouvardias
are difficult things to strike in nnskilful hands,
but a m&u used to the work will hardly lose one
in a hundred cuttings. When well-rooted these
are potted off into thumb pots, and subse¬
quently grown and potted on until 48’a or 32’a
are reached, in which size many growers always
bloom them. After flowering the plants are
allowed to go to rest bv being placed in a cool,
airy temperature, and kept almost dry. Under
this treatment they do not make a move for
two or three months, and a long and thorough
periodical re9t is one of the secrets of suc¬
cessful Bouvardia growing. The plants are now
cut back hard. Some cut them almost down
to the ground, and this invariably causes a
number of shoots to start from the base
of the plants ; and a gentle warmth,
with occasional syringing overhead, soon
starts them into growth again. Some growers
keep their plants in small pots, or have
a fresh stock of young stuff always coming on,
but far more bloom can be obtained from larger
plants. If grown on freely and repotted as re¬
quired these are easily produced in two or three
years’ time, and give much better results than
small 8 tuff in 48s ; but all must have a good rest
after blooming, and be well cut back afterwards,
then re-started, potted, and grown on, with
frequent syringing and stopping for the next
crop. If allowed to do so, most Bouvardias will
bloom in the summer season, but pinching out
the points of the shoots as fast as they show for
bloom will keep them back. A cool, airy house
is necessary through the growing season, and
the more room the plants have the better. In
order to get a beginning of flowering about
Christmas we cease stopping in early September,
and in October place the plants in a house where
they can have abundance of air and light, and a
genial temperature of 60 degs. to 70 degs.,
which suits them admirably. The best soil is
a good sound loam, with a small proportion of
peat, or leaf-mould, and coarse sand. We give
lair drainage, and pot very firmly, especially
for large plants. Some plant the young stuff
out in beds of good soil early in June, when
they make a fine growth through the
summer, and are lifted and potted in autumn ;
but such plants do not flower nearly bo well as
those grown in pots throughout.

Of varieties, Humboldti corymbiflora is the
largest in flower, and strongest in growth. The
blooms are pure white, and almost like a small
Stephanotis, emitting a powerful fragrance,
especially at night. The growth, however, is
very long, and the plant not so free in bloom as
most ; the flowers also do not stand cutting and
packing at all well. Longifiora is a diminutive
form of the above, with the same almost
glaucous foliage. Being very pure white, and
sweetly scented as well, it is a great favourite
with bouquetists. Candidissima is a fine
variety, producing large heads of pure white
flowers, which are individually small ; very
useful for cutting, or as decorative plants.
Vreelandii, a rough-leaved kind, is one'of the
freest and best; its blooms are of a pinky
white in summer or when grown outside, hot
under glass in winter nothing can be purer or
better. Flavescens is a sweet-scented, cream-
coloured variety of great beauty, but the plant
is somewhat delioate, and the bloom not at all
freely produced. Of the soarlet varieties
Elegans is about the best, being very bright
in colour, and good in every other respect.
Hogarth is paler in hue, but very free and good.
Dazzler is a very fine variety, of a rich scarlet

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Fkb. 7 , 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

C21

I colour, quite equal to the two last named, if not
superior, as it is very free in growth and profuse
in flower, and throws large bold trusses that
make a good display. Leiantha is another
bright red dower, and a great favourite with
some growers. Other good single forms are—
“The Bride,” Queen of Roses, Umbellata alba,
Jaam ini flora, and Angustifolia.

The two double forms recently introduced
from America, Alfred Neuner (white), and
President Garfield (blush pink), are certainly
useful as a variety from the single forms, and
are not so liable to drop the pips when cut as
the singles, but the large growers do not seem
to fancy them suitable for market work. They
are both, however, more easily propagated and
grown than any of the single kinds, being of a
much stronger habit of growth, and when well
done both these varieties make wonderfully
thick and strong wood, and produce very large
trusses of bloom. Bouvardias, though delicate
rooted subjects, do not succeed well if much
confined at the root. They will fill a good-
sized pot with roots if healthy and strong, and
be all the better for the extra space. When in
bloom liquid manure of some kind should be
administered twice a week ; this induces large
heads of bloom, and the production of side
trusses after those formed at the points have
been cut.

Cyclamen.

The Persicum varieties are very useful as
winter-flowering plants, and may be had in
bloom (successionally) from October to May.
They are, however, seldom seen in really good
condition in private gardens, and there are only
two or three trade growers who produce
first-class plants. There is no great secret in
their culture, the main thing being never to
allow them to be neglected at any season. Dis¬
regard of this rule is the most frequent cause of
failure, as the plants, however well looked
after through the flowering season, are too often
put aside immediately afterwards, and for¬
gotten just when they need attention almost
more than at any other time ; for if allowed to
become thoroughly parched vigour seems to be
destroyed for a long time afterwards. The
proper place for Cyclamen during the summer
is a cool and shaded, though by no means
gloomy, position, such as on the north side of a
large tree or lofty wall, and if the pots can be
plunged in ashes or fibre, so much the better.
Keep the plants just moist, never wet or
dry, and in August or early September
repot if necessary, though if the soil is
in good condition and the pots are of fair
size, they are better left undisturbed for
two or even three years ; we are speaking,
of course, of plants over two years old, not young
growing stuff. After potting keep rather close
for a time in a frame or pit, and about October
bring into a rather low and very light house
where a slightly moist atmosphere, and tempera¬
ture of 50deg8. to 60degs. or 65 degs., can be
maintained. They will do best on open stages,
boards, or shelves away from the hot-water pipes.
If only solid beds are available stand each plant
on an inverted pot. A fair amount of ventilation
should be afforded, but chiefly by means of the
roof-ventilators only. Water the plants freely
at the root when well in growth and bloom, but
allow no moisture to hang about the plants at
night, or decay of the stems will set in. A little
stimulant may be given twice a week with
advantage.

Cyclamens are raised from seed, which
Bhould be sown in spring or autumn, preferably
the latter. Spring sown plants must be pushed on
rapidly in heat, and, though they'usually bloom
the first winter, do not give nearly so good
results as those started six months earlier. Seed
is sown in flat boxes or pans, with good
drainage, in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, sand,
and petft. Coverthe seeds with quarter of an inch
of the mould, and keep the soil always moist.
If they are sown in July, or early in August,
the pots or pans should be placed in a somewhat
cool and shady house or pit, and the surface
of the soil kept uniformly moist. To this end
a little fresh Moss or a sheet of glass placed over
the pan is desirable. If the seed is good the
young plants will soon appear, and when the
weather grows cooler place them on a shelf near
the glass in a house at 55 degs. to 60 degs. By
the month of February they will be fit for pot¬
ting off singly into thumb-pots ; use the same
soil as for sowing, with good- drainage, and do

Digitized by

not press the soil at all hard—scarcely firm, j
Keep them growing on freely in a little more j
warmth and moisture if these are available, j
though at all times in plenty of light and near ;
the glass, or the growth will be drawn and
weak. At the end of April or early in May the
plants will be fit for shifting into largish 60’s,
or 3-inch pots. For this shift use a larger pro¬
portion of sound loam, with little or no peat,
and less sand than before. Early in June,
having been previously hardened a little, but
care being taken to avoid anything like a check,
the plants should be removed to a cool pit, or if
kept in the house artificial heat should be dis¬
pensed with, more moisture produced by throw¬
ing water on the floors, &c., and a little shade
given from scorching sunshine. Sprinkling the
plants overhead twice a day in hot weather
will be found highly beneficial. Keep the
plants growing, though with plenty of air on
warm days and nights, and as soon as rooted
out in the small pots, shift into 48’s, and if any
are very strong, into 32’s. Use the best loam
you can get, in a rough, turfy, or lumpy con¬
dition, with about a third of leaf-mould and old
decayed manure, and a good dash of coarse
Bilver sand. Pot just firmly, but by no means
hard, and leave half the bulb above the soil.
Keep close a few days, then give abundance of
air in a cool pit or low house, the plants
standing on ashes, boards, or Blates, to keep
worms from entering the pots. If the plants
have been properly attended to, they ought, by
September, to present a mass of large healthy
foliage, with scores or hundreds of flower buds
just appearing at the base. Given a suitable posi¬
tion on a shelf or airy stage of a light house,
with a sweet and fairly moist atmosphere and
genial warmth, such plants can scarcely fail
to produce a quantity of fine large blooms
during the greater part of the winter. The
great thing is to keep the young plants
growing on continuously from the seed-pans,
in a moist, genial atmosphere, and with
one even degree of moisture at the root. It is,
however, only fair to say that it is almost im¬
possible to grow good Cyclamens within the
confines of a large or smoky town, or in a
situation shaded and confined by high build¬
ings. With care, very fair plants may be pro¬
duced in the suburbs of London and other cities,
but the purer and clearer the air, and the more
open the situation, the better will the results
be, and the more easy will the production of
first-class plants become.

B. C. Ravenscroft,
[To be continued.)

Ollanthus Dampieri.— Inasmuch as I
succeeded in growing (under difficulties) a
healthy specimen of Clianthus Dampieri, or
Sturt’s Desert Pea, I think other amateurs need
not be discouraged. Provided time, a glass
structure, and artificial heat may be commanded,
I see no reason why the above should not be
easily cultivated. My plant, when about
18 inches in height, produced flowers, and had
grown naturally into a symmetrical pyramid.
The first blooms were borne at the apex, and as
those faded other strong flower-buds appeared
on all the side branches ; but before these burst
the Pea fell a sacrifice to my erroneous idea
that a New Holland plant could not have too
much sunshine. I allowed it to remain in a
window fully exposed to the rays of a July sun,
and am now aware that the pot in which the
Pea grew should have been put inside another,
or sand, ashes, or soil have been placed round
the sides of the pot to protect the tender rootlets
from the scorching heat. The soil employed was
common garden mould, with an extra quantity of
silver sand (on account of the name, Desert Pea—
I had no cultural directions to guide me), and for
watering clear water with the chill off was used.
As I lacked suitable accommodation I was
obliged to treat the Cliapthus as a window
plant. The preceding winter’s frost had been
of more than ordinary severity, and the plant
consequently sustained a severe check. I kept
the Pea for weeks in a dark corner, covered
with paper, taking it to be watered near a
fire. The packet of seed (two-thirds of it I dis¬
tributed) came direct from Australia, sent by a
relation, who informed me that he had often
seen in Victoria gardens the Desert Pea trained
over wire frames. Has it been treated as a

| trailer in this country ? If Clianthus Dampieri
; blooms in Paris in the open air from seed sown
j in spring, surely English amateurs need not
| deprive themselves of the gorgeous flowers ? A
lady to whom I showed mine went into excla¬
mations of delight, and declared it was a sight
worth travelling far to seo. —An English¬
woman.

LILY CULTURE.

As many readers of Gardening Illustrated
willbe likely to suppose that it is “K. L. D., Ash¬
more,” who called ‘‘Question” to Mr. Cornhill’s
remarks on Lily culture, I should like to be
permitted to say that, unlike my namesake,
my experience precisely bears out his con¬
clusions as to the resting, not only of scaly bulbs,
such as those of Japan Lilies, but of other types
of Lily-worts as well. There is no doubt, how¬
ever, that the longer one lives and gardens and
studies the subject, the more liberal one is
inclined to become in opinion as to the practice
of others. Few people, I should think, have
grown bulbs with care, who do not attain to
better and better results as seasons go on. It
frequently happens, indeed, that bulbs bought
in a state of enforced rest will not bloom at all
for a year or even two. In other cases, though
they have strength enough to bloom fairly the
season of purchase, they are apt to take a
long rest afterwards to enable them to recoup ;
sometimes even lying dormant for a whole
year, which is not at all an unheard-of circum¬
stance with all sorts of bulbs and tubers. If
such dormant bulbs be examined they will,
nevertheless, be found to have fibrous roots in a
more or less healthy state, though there be
nothing above ground to show it; and in pro¬
portion to the strength these attain will be the
future development of stems, leaves, and flowers.

A case in point occurs to me with regard to
the effect produced by the severe resting process
which many purchased bulbs must needs
undergo. It used to be almost an axiom—so often
has it been stated—that the bulbs of Guernsey
Lilies could not be made to bloom again, and,
consequently, after flowering, they were gener¬
ally consigned to the rubbish heap. Now it is the
custom to buy Guernsey Lilies in the autumn in
a dry state with, if possible, the flower stalk
just beginning to appear. The bulbs show no
sign of root, save a few remains of the dead
fibres which once have been. They are potted
in this state, and immediately throw up their
flower-heads without foliage, and, in all proba¬
bility, being picked bulbs, they flower well;
but, in order to do this they must live upon
the substance laid up in the bulbs, instead
of drawing nutriment through a vigorous
root-growth. They are, in fact, living upon
their capital, and exhaust the greater part of
their strength in the formation, first, of the
flower-head, and then of a scanty crop of leaves.
It was in 1880 that I had a conversation with
Mr. Peter Barr on this subject, when he was
sending me some of these Lilies, and I then pro¬
mised to give, at some future time, my experi¬
ence with these identical bulbs, which I still
possess. Most of them flowered well in the
autumn of 1880, though a few showed only the
beginning of a flower-spike, which never came
to perfection. After flowering, the greatest
care was taken to encourage luxuriant leaf
growth, and, when this had died down in the
following spring, they were treated to, what I
believe these bulbs absolutely require, a season,
not only of rest, but of baking in the hottest
corner of an out-of-door frame throughout the
summer. But all in vain. The second season—
i.c ., 1SS1, not a single flower rewarded the pains
bestowed upon them ; but every season since—
in 1882, 18S3, and 1884, with precisely the
same treatment, all the full sized bulbs have
bloomed finely and without fail, and I have
not lost one, while the original stock has
vastly increased. Each year they have been
repotted as soon as the foliage has withered; but
I never yet found them without plenty of
strong white root-fibres doing their work the
whole season through, even at the time when
they were supposed to be quite dormant.
Surely, therefore, it stands to reason that the
failure to bloom the second season is entirely
due to the ruthless destruction of the root-fibres
that the bulbs had undergone, and which can¬
not be avoided when they are purchased in a
dry 8 tat| 0 |lp, j

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

622

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb 7, 1885.

truth of Mr. Cornhill’s words, “ What nature
preserves we have no right to destroy.”

I am glad also that the subject of the re¬
potting of bulbs has been dwelt upon in his
article. The question is constantly recurring :
Does the formation of offsets weaken the
flowering bulbs, and is it better to remove
them or not? According to the non-shifting
theory, it would seem that they do not; or,
rather, perhaps, that the disturbance conse¬
quent on their removal is a greater evil than
that of letting them be. I am myself
coming round more and more every year
to their way of thinking. We amateurs
—especially if we are enthusiastic and in¬
experienced—are too fond of fiddling with
our plants, and often do more harm than good
by disturbing them unnecessarily. Bulbs of all
kinds are apt to resent interference ; take
Vallotas (Scarborough Lilies) for instance,
which not unseldom refuse to flower altogether
for a season after a shift. The same may be
said of the beautiful Jacobean Lily (Sprekelia
formosissima). These, with many others, are
best left alone until they burst their pots, when
a remove becomes a necessity. Probably the
same plan would answer best with the Guernsey
Lilies before mentioned, and Nerines of all
sorts. I suspect it to be the case also with
evergreen Lily-worts of another type—those
which have strong, fleshy, fibrous roots, such as
Agapanthus and Imantophyllum. Mr. Burbidge,
in writing to me once about Narcissi, gave the
experience of a friend who grew choice Daffodils
in the same way with signal success, leaving
them alone as long as their pots would contain
them. In all such cases, however, it goes
without saying that sufficient nutriment must
be supplied by top-dressing and liquid manure.
Soot water is a most valuable stimulant for pot
plants, especially for bulbs, which seem to
delight in it, and it is easily managed.

A parallel question arises : Is it desirable to
allow bulbs and tubers, which entirely die down,
to become very dry, and to remain in that con¬
dition during their period of rest? Many
people do this, and I am inclined to think it is
a mistake. To give a case in point: Oxalis
cernua is a charming spring flowering plant,
which is now beginning to throw up its flower
stems. It increases rapidly by means of small
brown bulbs, if they may be so called, which
succeed, or are produced by, the singular fleshy
tubers. After flowering, the leaves entirely
disappear, when the pans are generally placed
on a spare shelf in the greenhouse, and there
receive very little attention throughout the
Bummer. Last year, a pan was inadvertently
left out-of-doors entirely exposed to changes of
weather, and was consequently often soaked
with rain. When the time came for replanting,
the bulbs in the exposed pan were three times
as large as those placed in the greenhouse which
were kept comparatively dry, and these are,
moreover, showing their flower-buds earlier
than usual. Naturally, over-watering is not to
advocated, but judgment should be exercised
not to overdo the drying process when bulbs
are at rest.

Ashmore. K. L. D.

KING PLANTS FOR TABLE DECORATION.

The Aniestochili, or King Plants, as they are
sometimes called, belong to one of the most
beautiful classes of flne-foliaged plants ; they
are mostly dwarf and compact in habit, and a
few of the free-growing kinds among them are
very suitable for table decoration. The foliage
of all the species is superb ; in some the ground
colour is a rich olive or purple, interspersed with
a network of gold ; in others it is a bright
velvety green, netted with silver, which, under
an artificial light, is strikingly effective. The
reason why the Anrectochili are bo seldom seen
in cultivation arises from the idea that they
are difficult to grow except in a high tempera¬
ture. This is a mistake, as many of the most
useful varieties of them, especially those that
are suitable for table decoration, succeed well
in a vinery ; indeed I have grown capital speci¬
mens under the following treatmentThe
plants should be kept cool and dry during the
winter months. I never give any water from
the commencement of October to the early part
of February, the atmospheric temperature
being maintained at 60 degs. at night, and
65 degs. by day. As soon as the plants begin

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to move they send up a bloom spike which
should be removed with the point of a sharp
knife, an operation which causes the plant to
break from every joint; in fact, I have had A.
argenteus and its variety pictus strong enough
to push fourteen shoots from a single stem.
When the young shoots have made an inch of
growth, I take a sharp knife and cut the old
stem through, between each joint, keeping the
bell-glass under which they are placed close for
a fortnight or so, when they may be potted off,
either singly in small pots, or several in a pot
of a suitable size. The pots should be filled
with broken potsherds to within 2 inches of the
rim, and covered over with freshly gathered
Sphagnum, filling up with fibrous peat, liberally
mixed with clean potsherds and silver sand.
Lift each plant carefully out with the old piece
of stem adhering to the young plant; if there
should be any appearance of deciy after re¬
potting, remove it with a sharp knife at once,
and sprinkle the cut with a little fresh lime,
which prevents further damage. In re potting,
surface with Sphagnum Moss, which, if pressed
down at intervals as may be required, has a
pretty effect. Then give the whole a gentle
watering, and keep the bell-glas3es closed until
the youog plants have become established, when

HOW TO GROW BEGONIAS.

The present being the season when prepara¬
tions for raising these favourite plants from
seed, or starting the old bulbs into growth,
must be at once, or very shortly, commenced,
a few simple directions will doubtless be
acceptable to many readers of Gardening, and
will form a reply to Query No. 12531 and others.
Seed may be town any time during the
months of January, February, or March, for
(lowering in the current season. Those who
have plenty of heat at command are advised to
sow at once, especially if the stock of old
tubers is not large, for by frequent pricking
off and repotting, and liberal treatment through¬
out, fine plants in flower in 48’s and 32’s may
be produced by next June from sowings made
in the present month. On the other hand,
those who have to depend on a single cool
house would do well not to sow until early in
March, for it is much better to start late and
then keep the plants growing on freely than to
begin too early and have them checked and
Btarved for want of warmth. It may also be
premised that Begonia seed being of so fine a
nature—more like snuff than anything else—it
is of no use to attempt to raise it on the rough-

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a little air may gradually be given by placing and-ready system; on the contrary, too much
small pieces of wood under the edges of the care cannot be bestowed either on the previous

bell-glass, so as to lift it up equally all round,
always avoiding cold draughts. As the plants at
tain full growth, the bell-glasses may bs taken off
when the vinery is closed, a practice which
tends to ripen the stems well, and which pre¬
pares them for the cold winter months. Let
them have all the light possible, but shade them
from the sun. Never water or syringe them
overhead, as the water gets into the axils of
the leaves, and sometimes causes them to damp
off; and, as the plants are to be used for the
table, it is batter to be rather on the side of dry¬
ness than otherwise ; then, with care, they may
be used without sustaining the least injury. By
getting the growth matured early in the autumn,
and by giving the plants a cool dry rest in
winter, many varieties may be employed for
table decoration, and maintained in vigour for
years. _ J. S.

12622.— Heating houses.— Macintosh in " The Book
of tho Garden,” considers 1 foot of pipe to 6 or 6 feet of
gift**, according to sfae and other circumstances, to be
sufficient for conservatories. He also gives the table “ C.
R. ” requires, Vol. I., page 240, from which I extract the
following : “ To maintain tho temperature of 55 degs. when
the external air is 20deg«. the required length of 4-inch pipe
will be 136 f et per 1,000 cubic feet of air, temperature of
pipe being 200 degs. Fahrenhoit.— Stokbr,

preparations or on the subsequent treatment of
the young plants, particularly in the early
stages. The seeds should be sown in either
clean new pots of the ordinary make, or in
what are known as seed-pans, round or square.
Whatever kind of receptacle be used, it must
be first half filled with clean freshly-broken pot¬
sherds or bricks ; if ordinary flower pots are
employed (those 5 or 6 inches in diameter are
the best sizes) two-thirds of crocks would not
be too much. A sufficient quantity of the best
leaf-mould, clean and sweet, should have beeD
previously sifted very flue, the rougher part
being carefully preserved, but all bits of stick
or anything likely to produce fungus picked
out. Another lot should have been carefully
picked over, but not sifted, and mixed with a
little fibry loam and some coarse silver sand.
Now place nearly an inch of the rough siftings
over the crocks, fill up to within half an inch
of the rim of the pot (when gently pressed
down) with the coarser mixture, and lastly add
a quarter-inch of the fine sifted leaf-soil, mixed
with about a quarter of its bulk of clean silver
sand of medium texture. Press the surface
very gently to a perfectly smooth and even
level, and water very gently through a fine-

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URRANA-CHAMPAIGN

Feb. 7, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

623

|

rosed pot or syringe, and all is ready to receive
the seed. Sow this very evenly and not too
thickly, just shake the merest dusting of the
fine soil or sand over it, and give no more
water, but cover each pot with a piece of glass,
and place in a propagating bed at 70 degs. to
75 degs. with top heat of 5 degs. less, if such a
place is available, or on a shelf in a warm, or
stove-house, or pit. Some recommend covering
the pots with Moss or paper, as the seed un¬
doubtedly germinates more quickly in darkness,
but if this be done great care must be taken to
remove the oovering immediately germination
takes place, or the seedlings will become drawn
and weakly. Keep the soil always moist, but
dispense with watering before germination if
possible. When fairly up, tilt the glasses for
an hour or two each day, increasing the quan¬
tity of air as the plants gain strength, keep
moist, but water only when required, not by
driblets ; if damping occurs, shake some fine dry
sand over the surface, keep drier, and put the
pots on a shelf right up against the glass.
Kemember damping often occurs from too muoh
dryness at the root, as well as from excessive
moistnre in the air. If nothing else stops it,
commence to prick off the seedlings at once if
they can possibly be handled. In any case, the
sooner this operation is performed after the
young plants have formed one leaf beyond the
seed-leaves the better. It is a tedious process
at the best, but must be done. Prepare other
pots or pans exactly the same as for sowing,
water gently, and with a very fine dibble trans¬
plant the tiny plants at about half an inch
apart. Water again with tepid soft water,
and replace in the warm house, shading from
sun. Keep them growing by means of a moist,
sweet atmosphere, close the ventilators early
in the afternoon, and if the soil becomes caked or
green, stir it carefully between the plants with
a fine-pointed piece of stick. When they
become too thick in the pots, remove every
other one to other pans or boxes, with a rather
rougher and more loamy soil, and finally pot off
all singly into small 60 s, using equal parts of
loam and leaf-soil or decayed spent hops, with
a little sand and good drainage. They will
now, when rooted out and growing, bear any
moderately strong sunshine, with plenty of air
on warm days, and be all the better for it.
When strong shift into 48’s, using a mixture of
rough rich loam and leaf-soil, or hops, with
some coarse sand. The soil for Begonias need
not be rich, but must be thoroughly porous at
all stages, so that water may percolate freely,
or no good results can be obtained. In the
earlier stages the plants may be pushed on in a
warm temperature, and only a slight amount of
air be given, but when advancing towards the
flowering point a cool temperature is best, and
a free circulation of air is absolutely necessary.
To this end open, or lattice stages, formed of
laths or boards, or a position on a shelf, is
much preferable to a solid bed; and a lofty and
wide airy house, with plenty of side and roof
ventilation, will produce much better plants
than low or close structures of small cubic con¬
tents. The more light, sun (except this be too
strong and scorching), and fresh air the plants
have the finer and more numerous will the
flowers be. Water freely, but early in the day
as a rule, so that the stems and foliage may
be dry by night, for a single drop of water re¬
maining on a stem or loaf for more than five or
six hours will be almost sure to eat a hole through
it. The plants may be shifted on into larger
ts up to the end of July, but after this it is
tter to feed with liquid manure not over
strong. Begonias in a young state should by
no means be potted hard—scarcely firm—but
the older and stronger the plants become the
firmer should the soil be made. On cool nights,
or if damp is troublesome, leave a little
heat in the pipes, so as to create a constant
gentle motion of the air.

Double Begonias need exactly similar treat¬
ment to the single kinds, but do better in soil a
little more sandy, and require even more care in
watering, the blooms being liable to drop if an
uneven state of moisture is allowed to exist.
They are also the better for a slightly higher
temperature as a rule. The single yellows, also,
from some unexplained cause, need 5 degs. to
10 degs. more warmth than any other colour, to
grow really well. I have noticed over and over
again that yellow-flowered varieties, in cool
quarters with the others, do not look nearly so

Digitized by GOOgle

well as those kept in a gentle heat, say, 65 degs.
to 75 degs. For planting out-of-doors tho seed¬
lings only need hardening off well in cold
frames, when 2 inches or 3 inches high, and
dibbling out about 0 inches or a foot apart, in a
bed of good, loamy soil, in an open, sunny situa¬
tion. Keep them well watered at first, particu¬
larly if the weather be hot and dry subsequent
to planting. After a time they will take care
of themselves. The first week in June is the beBt
time to plant out-of-doors, but one or two-year
old tubers should always be employed for the de¬
coration of the flower garden, as young seedlings
do not generally come into full flower till quite
autumn. For any outside purpose the tubers
should be allowed to start quite naturally in the
greenhouse, or a cool frame, in April or early in
May, and should be placed in small well drained
pots, with open sandy soil. Some start them
earlier, in more or less warmth, grow them on
in pots under glass, and plant out in full bloom;
this method certainly produces a fine display
immediately, but it is doubtful if such plants
do so well later in the season. In warm, dry
soils, and favourable situations. Begonia tubers
may be left undisturbed all the winter, just
covering each with a little heap of ashes or
fibre, when they will appear of their own accord
in good time, and annually increase in size ; but
this cannot be done in cold, damp localities.

Indoors, old tubers of named or choice
varieties may be started at any time from
February onwards, by placing them in small
pots, in open sandy compost, introducing them
into a genial warmth of about 70 degs., and
subsequently potting and growing them on in
gentle heat with plenty of light. In this way
tine plants may be had in full flower by the
month of May. Be careful not to allow the
soil to become more than just moist at anytime
before the plants are well in growth, or the
tubers may decay. It is well to bear in mind,
however, that plants started very early do not
grow and flower so strongly as those that have
been allowed to come on naturally. Choice or
named varieties are propagated by means of
cuttings, by which method they are kept true
to the character of the parent plant. The beat
way of increasing them by this means is to take
off little stubby side shoots (which can usually
be found in July and August) with a slight heel.
Dry these for a few hours, then insert singly in
thumbpots, filled with a light open mixture of
coarse sand, loam, and Cocoa-nut fibre, with
good drainage. Place these on a shelf in a
rather warm house, where they can be shaded
from hot sunshine, and keep them just moist;
most of them will be found to have rooted in
three or four weeks’ time. It is, however, not
worth while to increase any but very choice
kinds by this means, for seedlings are much
more easily raised and grow more strongly than
plants from cuttings, and, if not very liberally
treated, almost invariably dwindle sadly in the
course of a few years.

The points of a good Begonia are—first,
colour, of which there is an infinite variety, and
in which a great improvement has taken place
the last few years. Some of the scarlets and
crimsons have, in some cases, a fiery brilliancy,
and in others a rich velvety softness, surpassing
in hue almost any other flower. The whites are
often dazzlingly pure, and the clearness and
richness of some yellows are really unsurpass¬
able. The second point is size of bloom, other
things being equal; moderately good specimens
bear bloom from 3 to 4 inches in diameter,
fine ones from 4 to 5 inches, while several have
come under our notice the past season with
flowers fully 6 inches from tip to tip. These
gigantic varieties usually grow very strongly, but
are not so branching in habit, or so free of flower,
as many of those of more moderate size. The
form of the flower goes a long way, the old
narrow-petalled, pointed kinds being superseded
by blooms whose individual petals are often as
wide as they are long, with the outer edge
evenly rounded, and the nearer the general out¬
line of the flower approaches the circular form,
the nearer perfection is the variety considered.
Substance of petal also counts, flimainess being
a great drawback. Habit and floriferousness
may be taken next, as if a plant does not ramify
freely it cannot produce nearly so many flowers
as one that does, and a dwarf compact bush
covered with blossoms looks much better than
a long-legged specimen with only three or four
blooms on the top. Some of the finest kinds

'produce strictly pendulous trusses of bloom,
but for small plants, and particularly for bed¬
ding purposes, where they are somuchbelo.v
the eye, upright or erect flowering sorts are now
preferred.

The value of the Begonia for any kind of
decorative purpose becomes more and more
apparent each year. In the greenhouse or
conservatory they afford, with a minimum of
trouble, a constant succession of gorgeous colour
throughout the whole of thesummer andautamn,
not a degree of artificial warmth being required
from June onward. In the open air they are
equally satisfactory, flowering continuously and
profusely from June till October, and resisting
the extremes of wet and stormy, or dry and
scorching, weather, better than any other plant
we at present possess ; while in the window box,
particularly in light and sunny aspects, hanging-
baskets either in or out-of-doors, or the rustic
stand, they are equally at home. Even in
smoky town air, and comparatively confined
situations, a fine display may be made, with a
little care, but of course the clearer and purer
the atmosphere, and the more open and sunny
the situation, the more gorgeous is the result.

_ B. C. R.

Propagating bedding Geraniums.—
The present iB a good time for increasing store *
of bedding Geraniums, and where the old
plants of choice kinds lifted in autumn have
been kept in gentle heat, and not cut down, as
is sometimes done, they will now be in vigorous
growth, and every shoot will make a good
plant. The old stems will break freely into
growth and make a fine bushy plant, for as the
days lengthen there is no fear of damping off
from the cut parts. Where the extent of glass
for storing plants in winter is limited a very
largo number may be saved in a small space, and
if good cuttings are procurable now they will
make excellent plants by bedding-out time. The
plan we adopt is to put one good cutting in the
centre of each small sixty-sized pot, and to
set them thickly on shelves near the glass in a
house, with a temperature ranging about 60 degs.
Here they soon become well rooted, and may
then be removed to pits or frames to be
hardened off, for the cooler they are kept after
they are struck the better, as plants that flower
freely before they are planted out will not make
anything like so good a display later in the
season. i find that for all the tricolor and
bronze-leaf varieties the plan of spring propa¬
gation is preferable to the autumn. Young
plants of equal size are very useful for edging
beds and borders, aud the losses among this
section of the Pelargonium tribe from damp and
other causes during the winter should be made
good as far as possible. Therefore, lose no time
in getting the work pushed forward, for if
delayed there is not time to get well-rooted
plants by the time they are required.—J. G. f
Hants.

REPLIES.

12499.— PlantB for Greenhouse.—
Camellias and Azaleas are very suitable for the
greenhouse of an amateur—the latter are
especially satisfactory. Paris Daisies, such as
Etoile d’Or, which blooms through the winter,
and H&lleri, Fuchsias, and a dozen good kinds
of zonal Geraniums, both double and single,
Heliotropes, Lantanas, and Abutilons are all of
easy culture. Chinese Primulas should be
grown by all who have a greenhouse, as they are
of fairly easy culture, and bloom from late
autumn till spring. Cyclamens are free for
winter bloom, indeed there is no plant which
flowers better through the winter months.
Potted soon and grown along through tho
summer, shaded from hot sun, they will make
good blooming plants by autumn.—J. C. B.

12626.-“ Delamero ” will find the plants I

mentioned in answer to query 12499, do well
in all unheated greenhouses, provided such
plants as Cinerarias are not placed too near the
glass for the frost to touch them ; when I say
‘too near,” I mean that the leaves should not
touch the glass, but they should be put in all
the light possible to make sturdy plants. All
the others are quite hardy and a few degrees of
frost will not affect them. Should the weather
become very frosty or damp, a fire lighted at
night would do good ; but as long as the
temperature does not fall muoh below 45 degs.
Fah., there will be little need for fires. My

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Fbb. 7 , 1885.

621

Primulas, and Azaleas, and Camellias have stood
in a cold frame here (Surrey) all the winter, the
Primulas are now in full bloom, and the Azaleas,
&c., are bursting with bloom buds. I keep
every thing possible in a cold frame, and then
when they are inclined to bloom I put them
into a little heat; but they would bloom as well
without the heat, onlv a little later, and would
have the advantage of being stronger plants. I
•hall be pleased to answer anything more about
flowers that “Delamere” cares to ask, if it be
in my power.— One w ho loves Flowers.

12577.— Pot roots of Dahlias.— What
are termed pot roots are plants that have
grown in the pots through the summer and
which remain in them through the winter and
until planting time comes. Roots thus pre¬
served are always in excellent condition for
planting, so that the term pot root is indica¬
tive of some superiority, and marks the dif¬
ference between the tubers which have had a
season’s growth and those which were struck in
heat at this time of year. “ Pot roots ” are
generally obtained from the latest struck cut¬
tings, and form the surplus stock of the florists
who grow them.—J. C. B.

12586.— Culture of Azaleas.— It is not
often that amateurs attempt the propagation
of Azaleas, as to do so successfully demands
special accommodation ; and even professional
gardeners, including the great majority of trade
growers, find it more to their interest to buy
from those who make a specialty

12647.— Hyacinths In water.— If the tips of the
roots are furred “ O. R." should carefully rinse thorn in
clean water, and then sponge the fur off, laying the roots
on a sheet of p iper, and handling them very gently, so os
not to break them off. If they are fairly long now, it is
probable they will not grow much more.—T. J. W.,
Crouch Hill.

A FINE SPECIMEN OF RAMONDIA
PYRENAICA.

When at Benthall Hall some years ago I was
much struck by the beauty of a fine specimen
of Ramondia pyrenaica in full bloom in the
drawing room. It is unusual to see alpine
plants grown into good specimens, and still
more so to see them gracing the dwelling-house
with their presence. This plant is one of the
loveliest of alpines and one of the slowest of
growers; but, as will be seen from our illus¬
tration, it was grown at Benthall Hall into a
fine, healthy specimen, with abundant bloom.
Little difficulty was experienced in its culture
there ; but it is impatient of excessive drought.,
and under a hot sun it is liable to turn brown
and lose its foliage, and thus is weakened for
the succeeding year. It does fairly well in an
open rock border, composed of broken stones
mixed with equal parts of sand, loam, and
peat, and blooms freely in this situation. In
a cold frame it is one of the easiest alpines to
grow. It likes thorough drainage, and a cool,
moist situation. At Benthall Hall it is repotted
every year at midsummer; about seven roots

top, finishing off with cinder ashes beaten down
firm and level. Dry wooden stages are an
abomination, and plants standing on them are
in a most unnatural position, requiring much
attention in the matter of watering. They
never thrive so well as when placed on a level
moist bed of ashes. At the back of lean-to houses
it is customary to erect a wooden gradient, sloping
from within 18 inches of the glass at the top of
the house to within 2 feet of the ground. This
allows of the storage of a number of small plants,
but does not so well allow of the growth of
larger specimens. We prefer to build a wall
as far as the front, allowing 2 feet 6 inches for
the path. Then the back wall can be used for
climbers, such as winter-blooming Tropseolums,
and tolerably large specimens of Camellias,
Azaleas, Abutilons, and similar things, can be
accommodated. Trailing plants, such as Ivy¬
leaved Geraniums, Othonna crassifolia, Saxi-
fraga sarmentosa, can be allowed to hang down
and drape the wall bordering the back stage.
The bottom of the beds should be concreted to
keep worms out. Three 4-inch pipes would be
required to heat the house—one wound along
the front near the Bashes, and two returns
brought down the path one above the other.—
J. C. B.

12557.— London greenhouse.— In the
small greenhouses which are not tended by pro¬
fessional gardeners it is most satisfactory to
grow such plants as require only shelter from
frost. Any of the ordinary run

of these plants. There is, how¬
ever, no reason why small growers
should not put in a few cuttings
with a fair chance of success, or
even raise seedlings. Seed ripens
freely on plants that have been
well grown, and may be sown as
soon as ripe in well-drained pots of f

fine sandy peat. Keep the soil
moist and quite dark in a close
frame until the young plants
appear. When up move to the ^

full light, shade from hot sun,
and give plenty of air. There will 4tjgjl

be no need to transplant until the
following April, when they must
be pricked out into 0-inch pots an
inch apart, which will be sufficient
space for them that season. The
following year pot them off singly
into small pots, grow them along
under glass until August, and then
turn them out into the open-air
until October. The culture details
consist in giving plenty of air in
fine weather, never allowing the
soil to become dost dry, and en¬
couraging a quick growth by
syringing twice a day in hot,
dry weather. That year many of the plants
will form buds. Cuttings should consist of
fine shoots of the current season’s growth taken
off in August, just as the wood approaches
maturity. A dozen of these are inserted together
in 6 inch pots, one-third full of drainage, and
filled up to within half an inch of the rim with
sandy peat, and finished off level with the top
with white sand. The pots are stood in a close
frame, shaded from hot sun, and wintered
under a handlight in a temperature of 55 degs.
if possible ; but they will do in a cool house
tolerably well. In this way a fair proportion of
the cuttings will root.—J. C. B.

12531.— Sowing- Begonia seed.— If the
seed is sown in February, and the young plants
are grown along freely through the spring, they
will bloom more or less well in the following
autumn. Many readers of Gardening, how¬
ever, have not the convenience of warmth at
this time of the year, and they should not sow
before the middle of April. Plants obtained
thus late cannot, naturally, be expected to bloom
the same year, but they will make good speci¬
mens the following summer. When the little
plants have a pair of leaves prick them out in
6 inch pots or in pans 1 inch apart, keep the
soil nicely moist, shade from hot sun, and give

S lenty of air in fine weather. When the foliage
egins to turn yellow gradually withhold water,
keeping the little bulbs in the soil, but dry,
until the following March, when they should
get a little water. As soon as they begin to

S ow put into small pots, shifting into 4} ones
ter on.—J. C. B.

of soft-wooded things will succeed,
and it is always best to begin
with cheap, free-growing plants,
and gradually work into those
that require more skill. Zonal
Geraniums, Fuchsias, Lantanas.
Lobelias, Verbenas, Calceolarias,
Paris Daisies, are all easily grown.
Vallota purpurea (the Scarboro*
Lily) is a capital autumn-flowering
plant, and, amongst other things.
Acacia armata, Kalosanthes coc-
cinea, Rochea falcata, and Crassula
jasminea are worthy of special
1 note. These, with some Chinese

Primulas, Cinerarias, and Cycla¬
men, would make a good begin¬
ning.— By fleet.

Planting tuberous roots.
—Unlike bulbs of the Daffodil and
Hyacinth type, tuberous roots do
not appear to keep well when out
the ground, no matter how care¬
fully they are stored. We hear
complaints of such subjects as the
fine Anemone fulgens failing to
grow when the roots have been
stored in the seedshop or elsewhere
for a while. Just when the roots
should be sprouting they are found to be a mass
of rottenness. This is just our experience of
several tuberous-rooted plants, Begonias, for
example, or Caladiums, &c., none of which like
to be dried off. Even the Potato is no exception
to the rule, and it is long since it was first dis¬
covered that Potatoes for sets were best stored
in dry soil or sand till planting time. Moral:
Do not keep any tuberous-rooted plant long out
of the soil, but, like Lilies, lift and plant at
once at the right season.—D.

An Alpine Flower grown in pan (Rxraondia pjren&ica),

are put in a 12-inch pan. The soil U6ed con¬
sists of equal parts of loam and sharp sand,
with a little peat or leaf-mould. The pans are
set in the shady part of a deep pit. To preserve
its beauty unimpaired it is necessary to keep
the flowers from exposure to the sun, and also
to avoid wetting them in watering. Thus
managed, flowering pans of Ramondia are
lovely objects for at least three weeks, and are
well worthy of a place either in the conservatory
or sitting-room. It is as well to add, for the
sake of those who do not know the plant, that
it is quite hardy, and flourishes best in moist
and warm nooks of the rock garden. We have
also seen it thrive in shady spots of peat borders,
where the soil would be firm and the plant
a nmolested. It grows naturally in the Pyrenees
j Q shady spots on the mountains. R.

; AVENUES OF TAPERING TREES.

In forming avenues the choice of kinds of trees
; has hitherto been too limited, and the form of
, the adopted trees too much alike. We are
accustomed to avenues of round-headed trees,
very beautiful in many an English park and in
public gardens everywhere, but avenues of
i tapering or fastigiate trees are also well worthy

> the attention of planters. We know of but few
good examples, but what can be more beautiful

. than such an avenue as that in the celebrated

> gardens of the Alhambra, as shown in our illus-
; tration ? In cool countries such as ours, where

shade is but little needed, avenues of taperiog
trees would be more appropriate than they are
; in warmer places, ana there is now in our
nurseries quite a wealth of trees wherewith to
form such avenues, from the tapering Oak,
Plane, and Poplar, to the beautiful and graceful

> evergreen trees, such as the Eastern Cypress,
i Lawson’s Cypress and its varieties, the Vir-
; ginian Cedar, and other erect growing Conifers
i of many species and varieties.

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

12525.— Building a Greenhouse.— In
erecting a lean-to greenhouse, the first thing to
bear in mind is to provide efficient ventilation.
The front sashes should be 15 inches high, and
if the whole of the front is made to open, so much
the better. At top there should be four sliding
sashes 3 feet in length and 2 feet in width,
which would allow of the admission of plenty of
air in sunny, but windy weather, when it is not
advisable to permit a through current of air.
Many small greenhouses are insufficiently
ventilated, and the plants burn in them in very
hot weather. As regards stages, there is no
way so good as to build a wall 3 feet 6 inches
| from the front, of the height of the sill, filling
up with soil to within 3 indies or 4 inches of the

Digitized by

Feb. 7, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

625

Digitized by

CjCK

Original from

Ul'JI VtKbl I r Ul- ILLINUIb AI

URBANA-CHAMPAiGN

AN AV1NU* or TAPERING TREES (CTPRESl).

626

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 7, 1885.

QUESTIONS.

Rules for Correspondents.— A11 communication*
for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the pajwr only, and cuUlressed to the Editor of Garden¬
ing , 87, Southampton Street, Covent Garden, London. Letters
on business shcmLl be sent to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required in addition to any designa¬
tion he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than
one query is sent each should be on a separate piece of
paper. A nswers should always bear the number placed against
the query replied to, and our rcadcre will greatly oblige us by
advising, so far as their knowledge and observations permit ,
the correspondents who seek assistance. Conditions, soils,
and means vary so infinitely that several answers to the same
question may often be very useful, and those who reply would
do well to mention the localities in which their experience is
gained. Correspondents who refer to articles inserted in
Garden i no should mention the number in which they
appeared.

All answers, with the exception of such as cannot well be
classified, will be found in the diferent departments.
Queries not answered should be repeated.

Naming plants or fruit.— Four plants, fruits, or
fio\oers only can be named at one time, and this only
i vhsn good specimens are sent. We do not undertake to
name varieties of florists’ flowers, such as Fuchsias.
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
name should always accompany the parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
tpccimem of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12653 — Growing 1 African Tuberoses —Kindly
tell me the proper way to grow African Tuberoses. I
have some line bulbs.— Abb£.

12659.—Ivy cuttings.—If cutting of Ivy wero in¬
serted in 3-inch pots, and placed in a slight hotbed, would
there be any chance of their rooting ?— North Staff.

12660.— Picea nobills.—I have Heeds of Picea nobilis ;
will any of your readers kindly inform mo of the best
method of raising them?—W. J.' Brand.

12681.—Rhapis flabelliformls.—I have a Rhapis
flabelliformis growing in a greenhouse with plenty of light.
The tips of its leaves, young and old, are dead and dry.
What is the cause ?-M. C. B.

12662.—Ivy cuttings.—Will any reader oblige me
with information as to the be.-«t time to put in cuttings of
Ivy, and how it should be done ? 1 want some 200 cuttings
by spring to cover a wall.—A Youno Subscriber.

12663.—Carnations in winter.— What plan should
I pursue in order to have Carnations in flower next
winter in the greenhouse ? I have a few pipings made
last summer, and could get seed.—0. H. K. P.

12664.—Ornamental plants for flower boxes.—
Will anyone tell me what ornamental plants will do in
flower boxes outside windows, duo north, clean water, in
earth?—W. J. Wiiylut.

12665.—Double-flowering Cherries and Plums
In pots.—Will some of your readers kindly inform me
on what stock I should graft these tre e», in order to grow
them in pots, for greenhouse decoration ?—M. D.

12665.— Nellgherry Lilies.— How should these be
treated and planted ? Should they be placed in green¬
house, and do they require heat?— Mrs. Cooly, co.
Dublin,

12687.—Peas not growing.—I sowed some Peas the
latter end of November, and they show no signs of coming
up. Will someone kindly Bay whether they will > his year?
They have not been covered over, the garden being south,
and high walls nearly all round.— Riponitb.

12668.— Plants for dry soil.— Will someone kindly
advise roe what plants to choose for a dry sandy soil in
Kent? If Heaths would be suitable, from whom could I
get a descriptive list ? My garden is small and sunny, and
expense is an object.— Sphinx.

12669 — Double Dahlias for open garden In
London.— I have a rather large and open garden, some¬
what exposed in the neighbourhood of Hyde Park, and
should be glad to know th. a best and most; showy twelve
double Dahlias suitable to plant 7—F. H. N.

12670.— Woodgrubs and Cabbages —Will any
reader of your paper tell me whether it is possible to pre¬
vent woodgrubs eating Cabbages? We hive lost nearly
all ours, and do not know what wo can do to save the
remainder.—A. H. S.

1267L. — Orange growing. — Will any reader of
Gardening who has lived in an Orange-growing country
tell me how long it takes an Orange, from the time of bloom,
to ripen and be ready for the table in its native country ?
—Orange.

1267?.— Portway tortoise boiler stove.— Will any
reader in or near London, having one of these stoves in
good working order and giving complete satisfaction,
kindly allow mo to see the same, as I cannot rely upon my
No. 2 keeping in all night?— 8iiowler.

12673.—Best varieties of plants.— Would somo of
your readers and correspondents kindly give me the names
of a dozen of the best sorts of the following : Azalea
indica, Ghent Azaleas (for forcing). Camellias, Bouvardia?,
Ixias, Tree Carnations. Dracienas, and Crotons?— An
Amateur.

12674.— Flowers for hollow.— I have some flower
beds which are in a hollow, consequently much shaded
from the sun, and which are usually very damp, I should
bo pleased to know what flowers will grow in them.
Annuals would be of no use. Would Wallflowers grow ?—
Xenia.

12676.— Unhealthy looking Latanla bor-
bonica.—I have a Pa m, Latanla borbonica, growing in a
pot in a drawing-room, opposite the window, but at the
other end of the room away from light. It nukes new
growth, but the last two new loaves are yellow and
withered, dead-looking at the points, and the two previous
ones have yellow spots about 2 inches from the tips. Will
any reader tell mo what is the cause of this and how can 1
remedy it ?-M.C. B. .

Google

12676.— Gloxinia bulbs.—Would any reader kindly
Inform me whether I should pot before or wait till the
bulbs commence shooting? Should they be sprinkled
with water occasionally when out of pots and Just covered
with fibrous peat or fibre ?— Showler, 17, Stapleton Hall
Road.

12677 — Chrysanthemums for London gar¬
den.—I should like to have the names of the nest
twelve early flowering Chrysanthemums for ray garden,
and what is tho latest time, if at all, for nipping back
Chrysanthemums (as above) for blooming in the open air
in London?—F. H. N.

12678.— Potatoes for exhibition.— Will someone
be kind enough to give a list of Potatoes of the best sorts
for exhibition at the beginning of August-viz., white,
kidneys, and round ; red, kidneys, and round ; and any
other good sorts of varieties which do not come under these
heads?—J. Hiam.

12079.—Solanum.—Will some kind reader tell me
what I should do with old and young plants of Solanum to
make them berry 7 I put them out-of-doors in their pots
every summer and they flower well, but they all drop off,
and no berry is formed. Should they be much cut back,
or any peculiar soil used for them ?— Gertrude.

12630 —Dictionary of garden flowers.— is there
any book or dictionary of garden flowers published with
coloured illustrations, answering to Sowerby’s work on
“ Wild Flowers,” enabling one to identify them, and with
a small Bketch of their habits and treatment? Heo, where,
and at what price ?— F. Griffith.

12631.—Celeriac.— Can you give mo any hints as to
t he cultivation of this root ? 1 have tried it for several
years, and have followed ail the instructions I have been
able to find, but have never been able to obtain any root
or bulb like those imported from Germany. We only get
a very small bulb, with numerous roots and a great deal
of stalk.— Ellcbe.

12682.— Maiden-hair Ferns —I liaveseveral of these
Ferns in a cool greenhouse doing well, although the
temperature at night mu9t be often below freezing, and
there is a mass of now fronds pushing up. I should like
to know if these can be divided, and when it should be done,
and how? Would liquid manuro do them good now?—W.
S , Southsea.

12683.— Celery plants in trenches.—Will any
reader kindly inform mo the bent means of producing
Celery plants from seed for field cultivation, about 100,000
plants are required. I suppose it would not do to sow
seed down trenches and single out 7 What seed would it
require to produce the quantity of plants, and what are
the best roots?—8. W. C., Spalding.

12684.—Temperature of hot frame.—I have a
hot frame with lire below, for starting seeds, 6 inches of
stones and 6 inches of Cocoa fibre on top of flue, and

S rt of the flue exposed for top heat. What should the
p and bottom-heat be by day, and how much at night ?
I have a bottom thermometer plunged in fibre, {and a
thermometer hanging on side of frame.— Subscriber,
Bankhead.

12685.— Tuberoses not flowering— I shall be
obliged to any reader who will tell me what treatment,
from beginning to end, I should give Tuberoses to mako
them flower? I have had some roots for years, but they
have never flowered. I have kept them dry during the
winter out of pots, and I have likewise left them in their
pots quite dry, but nothing will induce them to flower.
Should they be started in bottom-heat?— Gertrude.

12688 — Double crimson and yellow Wall¬
flowers.—Can anyone kindly inform me whore I could
procure plants of the old dark double crimson or bloody
Wallflower, as it used to be called here, and also the
double orange or yellow, which we used to call tho golden
drop? I have read all the advertisements in Gardening,
but can never see either of these mentioned.—X.,
Loughgall.

12687.— Apple trees and mice.— A Nonpareil
Apple tree against a wall has had the rind eaten off from
almost all the last season’s shoots, and some of the larger
branches, 2 inches or 3 inches thick, have been entirely
skinned. I strongly suspect this is done by mice, as
several have been caught In tho Strawberry bed close by.
I should like ti know if this is a oommon case, and what
is the remedy ? I fear tho treo will be killed.—W. D. W.

12688.— Grape out-of-doors.— I planted a Grape
vine (Gros Colmar) in November last out-of-doors; it is
sheltered on three sides, and will get the sun from sunrise
to three or four o’clock in the afternoon. I have since
been told it is not a good sort, but will require forcing to
bring it to perfection. Will someone kindly tell me if it
will be of use to let it romain, or what sort to reoommond ?
—Jno. Coburn W., Bristol.

12689.—A legal question.— When I took the house I
live in I put up a greenhouse, resting on timbers, edge up.
I made a cemented walk down the centre, timber on each
side, and planted in the made borders Tea Roses that now
cover the top and sides, mixed with Clematis. I may leave
in June, and I want to know if I may rernovo everything
and leave the same surface as I found on entry. Also if I
can pot any Roses now out in garden and take them with
mein June ?—J. C.

12690.—Lilies, Carnations, and Bouvardias
In frame.- I have a brick frame 14 feet by 4} feet, in
which a few half hardies are kept in winter, and Tomatoes
and Cucumbers grown in summer, succeeded in autumn
by quit j a fine display of Chrysanthemums. Could I,
without giving them up and by adding a heating appa¬
ratus, be able to force Lily of th j Valley bulbs. Carna¬
tions, Bouvardias, so as to have them to out in January
and onwards?— Surrey.

12691.— Tar for woodwork.— Would j’our corre¬
spondent “ Laboratory Boy,” in issue of 24th inst., kindly
say where the “refined tar,” or tar varnish, he r com¬
mends for woodwork is to be obtained at the price he men¬
tions—viz., 4d. per gallon, as the writer notices the quota¬
tions given by oilmen for Mock varnish for rough outside
woodwork (presumed to be the same thing) is 50s. for
88 gallons, or nearly Is 4d. per gallon ?— Chelt. ["King¬
ston,” who says he has to pay 4d. per gallon for ordinary
Ur, and at that price to take not less than 40 gallons at a
time, asks the same question.)

12692.— Heating small greenhouses.— Under this
heading in Gardening Illustrated on the 31st inst. is
given a useful and interesting account of the best way of
heating small greenhouses by “ T. B.” Would he kindly
say what is meant by a coil about 1 inch in diameter,
from which tho heat is obtained, and give the name of the
maker, and the kind of stove he uses ? Also the length
and diameter of the hot-water pipes, and if they pass all
round the houses, or only on one side ?— Ttro.

12693.—Summer treatment of Cyclamen.—
I should be glad to know what treatment to give Cyclamons
during the summer to make them flower well in the
winter, and what will keep off a sort of mildew that comes
on backs of their leaves, and affects the flowers seemingly ?
I put my plants in a cool frame in the summer time, and
did not take them in till November, but they have
flowered very badly and the flowers are eaten and spoiled.
—Qbrtrudk.

12694.— Plants for greenhouse.— I have put up a
lean-to greenhouse, 15 feet by 10 feet, which will get sun
during the Bummer months from about seven a.m. to five

in. I have very little knowledge of plants ? and would

e thankful if any reader would kindly advise me what
kind of Geraniums, Fuchsias, and other kinds to begin
with, and what kind of a stove or heating apparatus to
adopt for it. I am only a working man, fond of flowers
and other plants, and I want to do the thing as cheap as
possible.—J. Short, Blackley, Manchester.

12695.— Ferns on a back wall.— I have a lean-to
glasshouse, the back wall of which is 8 feet 3 inches high
by 8 feet wido. On this wall I want to plant Ferns and
shall be glad if any of your correspondents can give mo a
hint how to set about it I shall have to build straight up
from the ground, about 6 inches from the existing wall,
and have been recommended to build up with Tufa os being
a suitable material, Laving gaps to be filled in with soil
and Ferns planted. Can anyone inform me where Tufa
can be obtained, or suggest any other suitable material
which can be easily used and in which Ferns will flourish ?
I would rather not have virgin Cork. -Fernery, Birming¬
ham.

12690. -Lawn tennis ground— As many readers
are similarly situated to myself, perhaps somo of the
correspondents of Gardening would give us some of their
experience upon tho treatment, top-dressing, rolling, &c.,
of tennis lawns w'hich have been neglected since last
season’s play had ceased, and tho owners of which are now’
waking up to the sense that something must bo done to
mako a decent surface for next summer. Mine is all
lumpy and coarse. Is it too late to sow new Grass seeds,
and would Guano, dry or liquid, improve it ?— Pro¬
crastinator. [“ Riponite ” asks a similar question, and
wishes also for general information as to the mode of
making a tennis ground.— Ed.]

12697.—Fitting up fernery.—I have lately built a
fernery adjoining the house, and wish to know how it
should be fitted up inside —what sort of staging, and how
the walls should be treated ? Should they be covered
with growing Ferns, Moss, Ac., and how is this done, so
as to be quite green all the year? Tho house is 18 feet
long by 12 feet wide, and is heated W’ith pipes all round.
Is Cork a good thing to use in a fernery ? Mine is
surrounded on three sides, and faces north-east. How
should the glass roof be protected from failing slates or
chimney cans in a storm? Is there any wire netting
sufficiently strong to protect the structure from misad¬
venture? I should also like to know if anything but
Ferns would thrive in such a house, which gets the morn¬
ing Bun only. Would Lapageria orCUmits Flammu’a
do, or Stcphanotis over tho roof ?— Lady Fern.

12698.— Fern case.— Last year I made a large Fern or
heated plant case, similar to one described in Gardening
about four years ago. The case and heating apparatus
were a completo success, but the Ferns at present have a
very sickly appearance. Possibly the soil, or the selection,
or both are bad. I have therefore determined to clear it
out, and start afresh, if someono will kindly answer the
following queries : (1st) Where I might procure suitable
soil and material for drainage ? (2nd) Whether it is best to
keep the plants in pots bedded in the soil, as I would like
the surface covered, or to plant them in tbe pan, which is
33 by 26 by 5 inches deep? (3rd) A list of not too expensive
Ferns and Mosses, evergreen and deciduous, likely to
succeed in such a case, in which I have plenty of accomo¬
dation for hanging baskets or climbers?— Tympanis,
Glasgow.

12699 — Slow combustion Stove.— Wchave asunll
greenhouse about 11 feet in length. 9 feet in width, and
10 feet at its highest point. In this we got a small slow
combustion stove Bet up about six weeks ago ; and, far
from having benefited tho plants, it seems to have injured
them greatly. The Primulas are all but dead, the Cinera¬
rias look very badly, and the Pelargoniums, which wero
in first-class health, are blighted and unhappy-looking—in
fact, everything but the common Geraniums are in a very-
bad Btate of health. We have had the stove removed, but
the smell of smoke still remains in the house. The only
ventilation we had was a wiudow on a hinge 3 feet by
1 foot, which we used to leave open for a few hours each
day. Was it want of air which injured the plants, or was
tbe air too dry? Whatever the reason is, our heating
apparatus was a complete failure.—A. II. F.

12700. — Plants for grreenhous©.—I have lately
erected a conservatory at tbe back of my house, which
faoes north, and, consequently’, does not, except on one
side (and then only late in the afternoon and for a thcr;
time), get any sun. Later on I shall get some sun for a
short time in the very early morning, and again later in
the afternoon I shall again get the sun, but otherwise the
house is very shady. I have no artificial heat, save whit
I may give by opening a large French window, by which
I can keep out the frost. Can you or some of your corre¬
spondents give me some useful hints as to what I can
grow in this house ? My own notion is that I could grow
fairly well somo sorts of Roses, Camellias, Auriculas,
Fuchsias, Dentzias, and Lilies of the Valley. The house
is very light, and arrangements are made for abundance
of air when necessary. There are no draughts from tb«
lights, the glass being all. i i one piece, and tho place can
be made very snug and comfortable.—J. V. Battiscoebi

Nfv tr\ I T Ur ILLlnJUlb AI

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

gitize

Feb. 7 , 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

62 7

12701.—Culture of Camellias.—I should be obliged
(or information as to growing Cimellias. I have a glass¬
house, 15 feet by 42 feet, heated with 1 inch and It inch
hot-water pipes, with an average temperature of 45 degs.
It is 7 ft. 6 in. high, and commands a south-western aspect
outside the borough. I have two Camellias, one white,
the other pink. In the first year I had a temperature of,
say 50 degs. At the beginning of autumn and this year I
have used no artificial heat till about Christmas, only Just
sufficient to keep out damp. The white one I repotted
about two years since, and the pink one twelve months
since in pots at least two sires larger. This year the white
one has been very strong in buds, so much so that an expe¬
rienced gardener thinned them off. The remainder have
since dropped off, and also some of the foliage has turned
yvllow. The pink one has a few buds on. but they have
turned brown and shalley, and have made little progress
for the past two months ; they were both potted by an
experienced gardener. I may also say I have a ground
ventilator both sides, also side and top ventilation; and
I have a pipe (5-inch) which runs through a wooden spout
filled with cold water to produce moisture when reqaired.
I can grow successfully Roses, Hydrangeas, L. auratum,
Calceolarias, and other greenhouse plants. Can you give
a reason for my had luck with Camellias, or give me any
information that will help ms out of my difficulty?—J. N.,
Fovge Moor, Bolton.

The folioiring queries are briefly answered by
the Editor , but readers are invited to give f urther
answers should they bs able to offer additional
advice on the various subjects.

12702. — Plants without earth. — Will someone
inform me where I can get the fertilising Moss used for
this purpose, also price and directions for use?— Seagull.
[We tried, it, and found it of very little use .— Ed.]

12703.— Flowering’ water-plant.— Can you tell me
the name of a flowering water-plant most suitable for a
shallo w iron tank in a greenhouse ?—T. P. i

[Cape Pond Weed .— Ed.]

12701.— Geraniums In window boxes.— Should
G -raniurns which have been growing in window boxes out-
of-doors be cut down in the spring ?—No. 1828.

I I'm ; they should be cut down in autumn or winter— Ed.]
12705 — The Papyrus.—Where can I obtain the
Papyrus, as figured fn Gardening? I cannot see it in any
of ihe Catalogues.— Tomtit.

[Any large nurseryman will procure it for you .— Ed.]
12706.—Scotch Spruce.—How can I raise Scotch
Spruce 8nd other Firs from seed ?— Tomtit.

(.Sow on the surface of well-prepared beds in March or
April, and cover with a thin layer of fine soiL— Ed ]

12707. — Propagating Alternanthera.— Can this
plant be raised from seed ?—A Subscriber.

(TAis plant is usually raised from cuttings , which may be
obtained in spring from nurseries, but it is best to buy young
plants.— Ed.]

12708.— Construction of greenhouse.— Can you
recommend a reasonably-priced work on the construction
of a greenhouse, and an inexpensive but effective heating
apparatus ?—W. H. C.

[Faukef ** Hothouse Building." — Ed.]

12709.—Book on propagating.— What good book
on propagating can any reader recommend (cheap), in¬
cluding trees and shrubs?—T omtit.

L There is no good work on propagating. Ballet’s “ Art of
Grafting ” might assist you.—E d.]

12710.— Removing seedling Hollies.— Will any
readers of Gardening kindly tell mo the best time of the
year for moving seedling Hollies, ranging from 3 inches to
15 inches in height?—E. Y.

[The latter end of April and during May .— Ed.]

12711.— Dianthus diadematU3.— Is it possible to
get plants of Dianthus diadematus sown in pans in March
to flower in June if planted out in May? I have no
hotbed, only a cold greenhouse.—C. H. K. P.

[You may raise seedlings in the way you mention, and
these would flower the latter part of June and in July.— Ed.]

12712.— Work on Hybridisation.—Will some one
among your numerous readers inform me from whom I
can obtain, at moderate price, a book on hybridisation of
flowers or plants?— Ivanhor.

[“Cultivated Plants," by Burbidgr. (Blackwood & Co.).
—Ed.]

12713.—Watering bulbs.—I have just potted Liliutn
auratum and speciosum and Vallotas. Should they be
watered ? I have only a cold greenhouse, from which I
keep out frost by a lamp.—C. H. K. P.

[Do not water until the leaves appear above the surface,
unless the soil is dust dry, which is probably not the case in
an unhtated greenhouse.— Ed ]

12714 — Cankered Apples.— Some of my young
Apple trees are looking rather cankered. When the
weather is mild would it be advisable to paint them over
with some insecticide at this time of year t—B. H.

[If it is needful, there is no better timi than the present,
when the buds are dormant, for painting them over with
an insecticide.—E d.]

12715.— Medicinal plants.— Will any of your readers
kindly give the name and address of a good house where
seeds of above can be purchased ?— Wisconsin.

[We fear you can pet them only by searching in many
different quarters, and not many of the plants beyond the
British and European kinds may be raised from seed. Of
these kinds some can be easily had from roots .— Ed.]

12717.— Repotting Plumbago capensls.— Will
you kindly tell me when is the best time to shift or repot
Plumbago capensis, and what soil is necessary ? Also
whether they should be cut back before or after repotting ?
—Siiowler.

[Repot now, and cut the shoots back close. Give no water
until It begins to shoot, except enough to keep the soil moist.

—Ed.]

12718.—Vases for plants.—I wish to purchase a few
vases for plants to grow in out-of-doors. Will any readers
of Gardening inform me where I can get them, and what
material is best and cheapest—metal, earthenware, or
anything else?—I vanhob.

(Garden vases are usually made of terra-cotta. Our
advertisement columns will give you a choice of firms from
which to procure them .— Ed.]

12719.— Lilies for open borders.— Will any reader
be kind enough to inform me of some suitable Lilies for
growing in open borders in Somersetshire? Lilium auratum
and Lilium candidum I have. 1 wish to make a collection
of other showy varieties —L. D.

[Try Lilium monadelphum, L. chalcedonicum, L. Marta-
gon, L. croceum, L. speciosum, L. pardalinum, L. Hum-
boldti, L. testaccum.—ED.]

12720.— Lilium, Eucharls, and Poinsettias. -

1. How can I have the Lilium auratum in blossom now ?

2. Why don’t the Eucharis amazonica flower? 3. Why
do the Poinsettias grow to wood without foliage? All
these plants are quite healthy looking.— Sinchen.

[1. This is not the season for this Lily to flower, and it
cannot be forced successfully. 2. This plant does flower
freely at most seasons if it is in good health and under proper
treatment. 8. This is the natural habit of the plant.— Ed ]

12721.—The use of lime water.—l. Will you
kindly tell me the quantity of lime requisite for making
lime water ? Say the quantity for putting into a cask
holding 20 gallons of water. 2. The best time for clean¬
ing the lawn of worms? 3. Will lime water injure plants
and bulbs if put on the beds to kill wireworm ?—H. U.

(I. Put a gallon or so of lime in the cask, and use when it
is precipitated und the water clear. 2. Now; water with
lime water. 3. No .— Ed.]

12722.— Propagating Mistletoe —Can any of your
contributors inform me as to the best plan to propagate
Mistletoe ? I have any quantity of Apple trees, young and
old, but do not know how to plant the Mistletoe berries in
them, nor at what time of the year.—M istletoe.

[Make a little slit on the side of the branches of the tree
and insert the seeds. The present is a good time. If they
are put on the under side of the branches they are not so
likely to be taken out by the birds .— Ed.]

12723.— Tuberose culture.—When planting Tube
roses should one remove the small surrounding bulbs 1
Some I planted last year grew vigorously, but showed no
signs of flowering, and have now a great number of small
side bulbs.—C. E. H.

I Yes, the bulblets should be removed. If the parent bulbs
are large and sou,id they should flower well. Tuberoses re¬
quire liberal treatment, that is, good manured soil. A top-
dressing of cow manure, when the plants are in vigorous
growth, isbeneficial — Ed.]

12724 —Pelargoniums in greenhouse. -In a cool
greenhouse, which I only heat so as to keep it from 40 degs.
to 50 degs. Fahr., I have a large number of cuttings of
fancy and zonal Pelargoniums, taken in September and
October last. Some have damped off, but a large propor¬
tion appear well rooted. Ought I to pot them off singly
at once, in older to get blooming plants next hummer, or
would it be safer to wait until the season is further
a lvanced ?—W. H. W.

(I’m; you had belter pot off the healthy rooted cuttings at
once in separate pots in good soil. — Ed ]

12725.—Geraniums turning to leaf,— Kindly
inform me respecting Geraniums. I find they turn to
leaf in my garden, and I purpose putting the plants into
the flowering pots, and inserting them in the ground. At

E resent the plants are in small pots. When should they
e repotto i into the flowering pots, and what size should
I use? When the plants are taken up in the autumn,
should they be repotted, or cut back and repotted the
following spring ?—H. U.

[ Your around is too rich for them. Keeping them in pots
will check their growth and tend to throw them into flower.
Shift them into 0-inch pot8 about March. If you have no
glass accommodation, and arc obliged to winter them in a
cellar, they should not be re;wtted in the autumn. The soft
tojxs ami some of the bigger leaves should be removed, so as
to prevent damping off,— Ed.]

12726.— Missing Speedwell.—I should be very
much obliged to anyone who could tell me the name of a
very beautiful Veronica. It is perfectly hardy, bears a
number of flowering stems, about 6 inches or 8 inches
long, lying on the ground. The flower spikes are thickly
set with brilliant blue blossoms, resembling somewhat tho
wild Speedwell (V. Cham rod rys), but are larger, of brighter
blue, and each petal, or, perhaps, I should say division,
of the corolla is pointed instead of rounded, like the Speed¬
well. I had it years ago in my garden in Sussex, and it
flow’ered well every summer for eighteen years ; but the
house was sold, and when I visited the place last summer
I missed many old friends from the garden, and the
beautiful Veronica among them. Any clue to its name I
should be thankful for, as also where to get it.— Aristo¬
phanes.

[There are a number of dwarf, rock, and alpine Speedwells,
and it would be difficult to say which you want without a
scrap to guide one.— Ed.]

12716.— Marechal Nielin lean-to.—I have Just pur¬
chased a large (8 feet) Marechal Niel Rose in pot (6-incb);
when should it be repotted, and what soil is necossary ?
Will it do well in lean-to, heated at the present time up to
between 50 degs. and 60 degs. ? This is too warm a tempe¬
rature, I presume, for a Glolre de Dijon ?— Showlbr.

[The temperature is really too toarm for Marichul Niel,
which would do much better if planted outside against a
warm south wall. Gloire de Dijon, being hardier, would do
well cm a standard. Should you desire to grow the Marichal
Niel in a pot under glass we advise you to place it in a
cooler house. In repotting give ample space for soil around
ihe root$.— Ed.]

Digitized by (jOOQlC

UNANSWERED QUERIES.

12488.— Vegetable growing.—On the north side of
my house is a patch of garden ground, which is much in
the shade and seldom get* sunshine. What simple vege¬
table could be successfully grown in it ? The subsoil is
clay.—A. B., Essex.

12489.— Superphosphate of lime.— Is this a suit¬
able manure to give to plants in pots, or to mix in composts
for pot plants? Would It help to Invigorate an exhausted
lawn ? if so, I Bhould be glad to know tho modes of appli¬
cation.—T railer.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

NOTES ON SOME BORDER FLOWERS.

I scarcely know what I can usefully say in
reply to Mr. Neve (pp. 595-6), whose notes
have evidently been taken with the utmost
care. His experience of Senecio pulcher quite
confirms my own, bnt os mine seems to have
been longer than his, I may offer my observa¬
tions for what they are worth. Here it has been
grown about seven years in various soils and
under different modeB of treatment. In every
case it has proved perfectly hardy ; but, speak¬
ing of it as a permanently planted-out border
subject, with ordinary treatment, its flowering
is less satisfactory, and only when the autumus
are fine, and the frosts keep off' until late in the
year, do the heads, in any number to speak of,
open. It is a very late bloomer, and the bold
foliage is equally caught in lurch by early
frosts. This is an important fact to note,
because if the leaves have not fully developed,
and are suddenly cut off, the following season's
crowns are not matured, hence the numerous
small shoots, minus the central or parent one,
the spring following such an occurrence. These,
as Mr. Neve suggests, require to be iu their
second year before they are strong enough
to send up a flower stem. It will thus be
seen that not only are the heads of
bloom often destroyed by early frosts,
before they can fairly open, but the whole plant
is as often thrown back from the same cause.
Two methods of treatment involving a little
care—and this splendid composite is worth it—
have proved successfal even so far north as
Yorkshire. First, take offsets and grow them
in pots, wintering them in a cold frame, where
they will remain verdant, and even continue to
grow, if the weather is not very severe. These,
when a year old, may be set in a sunny border
of rich soil, and they will come into bloom quite
a month sooner than with starved, open ground
roots, as here time has been gained and the
foliage preserved until it could die a natural
death, which is precisely what is necessary.
The other plan runs more nearly on the lines of
ordinary open border treatment. On a well-
drained plot fully exposed to sunshine, and if
with shelter from the north all the better,
make up a raised bed—I mean a neat, well-
tilled border, 6 inches or 8 inches above tho
common level. It will be found most useful for
many other late things, such as the tall Lobeliis,
Stobcea purpurea, Stokesia cyanea, and many
of the finer bulbs, as the Belladonna Lily,
Sparaxis, Ixias, Gladioli, Eucomis, and such
like. On a warm bed of this kind almost any
plant will be found, on trial, to make and
perfect its growth earlier and in less time than
on the natural level. Should the land be stiff
it should have well worked with it a liberal
supply of leaf-mould and sand, and burnt
refuse is capital stuff for the purpose—in short,
the bed should be made rich, light, and free,
when, for half a lifetime, it may be expected to
grow flowers therein both earlier and of finer
quality. Very likely, it will be asked, “ And
is this hardy plant culture ?” To which I would
reply that here we have an exceptionally late
subject from a clime very different from our
own, and withal a plant of exceptional beauty.
These facts justify the special treatment,
which those possessed of sterling flower love
will not be likely to grudge ; and, after all, it
is but hardy plant culture in the best sense of
the word.

Most of the composites referred to by Mr.
Neve are among the finest of our hardy peren¬
nials, but I should like to add that the Helenium

f r&ndiflorum (omitted) is by far the best of all
have grown of that genus ; it is somewhat
new, but not now scarce. The flowers or heads
are practically black and gold, and of ex¬
quisite form ; they glisten, whereas most other
Heleniums are rather dull.

What the editor says about Astrantia major is
only too true; but I am bound to say that a hand f ul
of cut bloom has several times, to my know¬
ledge, helped a set of cut flowers to win
on the exhibition table, and notes of it have
been largely taken. I do not know what
the Papaver grandiflorum mentioned by Mr.
Neve may be. One is on the look out
for anything fresh of this justly popular
genus, but I imagine he means P, orientals, of
which there are several forms all worth grow-

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

628

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb 7 , 1885.

ing. Delphinium nudicaule is very subject to
the attacks of grubs aud other vermin at its
nutty roots during winter. I like to lift the
tubers, both of this and other scarlet Lark¬
spurs (D. cardinale and varieties), as soon as the
tops die down ; then they are clean and sound,
and may be divided according to the number of
crowns. These are simply set in sand in full
sunshine, where they heal and ripen, and by
November they begin to show growth, when
they are potted, to be turned out into the border
again about April. I do not think slugs touch
these tuberous species—at any rate, my slugs
do not; but of the formosum, elatum, and
numerous hybrid kinds they are most fond, and
unless these are protected the strongest shoots
cannot do much good. I find the wood-ashes
remedy to answer admirably. All kinds of Iris,
and especially Aster alpinus, need something in
this way where slugs infest the ground. I
scarcely think the slimy tribe is to blame for
the damage complained of to Funkias, but I
have observed that caterpillars are very partial
to them. Periodic hunts for these, and a
dressing of wood-ashes on the chance
that slugs do the mischief, might be
of benefit. Plumbago Larpentce I have
grown for eight years or more, and never yet
have got a well-developed flower, so I should
be glad if anyone who gets it to flower well
would describe under what conditions the plant
is growing in the open air. I can hardly imagine
the cause of Phlox verna (syn. reptans) not
doiDg well; wherever I see it, it is as rampant
as a Strawberry, and, as for bloom, it is one of
the highest coloured and most durable I know
throughout the season; we have to chop it back.
If Mr. Neve will set it in light loam, mixed with
a little leaf-mould, on the flat, I fancy it will
grow and flower. Lithospermum prostratum
likes light land, a sloping position, as over
stones, on rockwork, or on the edge of a raised
bed; this pretty “true blue” Gromwell is an
endless bloomer. I do not think it has been
without flowers for the past two years. Yes,
that grand Speedwell (Veronica longifolia
subsessilis) ought to be in every garden ; when
well grown its spikes of intense bronzed
gentian-blue are about the most telling cut
bloom one can use. I almost dare prophesy that
it is one of the coming favourites.

Woodville , Kirkstall . J. Wood.

Double Dahlia. —From the beginning of
this century gardeners have been hard at work
to produce double flowers, and by crossing the
colours have brought out most lovely shading
on the petals. It seems very Btrange that now
all these very fine productions are discarded,
and that people should fly back to the original
single flower for which nobody cared when
it was first brought to Europe. I am sure there
are very many who prefer a double to a single
Dahlia. I will explain how easily they are
grown from seed : In March, 1883, I bought a
packet of seed, sowed in a pot in light rich soil, in
a cool greenhouse, and they were up in ten
days. When 2 inches high they were trans¬
planted singly in thumb pots, and all grew well
till the end of May, when they were planted in
open ground. Out of fifty roots I had about
twenty colours of very large flowers, perfect in
shape, in a garden 200 yards from the sea, and
exposed to the cutting north wind, in the Isle
of Thanet. In 1884, having some seed left from
the previous year, it was sown ; all came up as
before, were planted aloDg with the old roots,
and were in bloom at the same time, in August.
A frame or a box covered with glass would
answer as well for those who have not a green¬
house.—H. Dawson, 10, 1 Vigmore Street, W.

Transplanting herbaceous plants.—
We frequently hear people remark that there
is nothing one can do in a garden at this time
of year, for nothing can grow, and the beds are
all neat and trim in their winter garb ; but I
fear that those who leave all their planting until
the visible signs of growth denote that the time
for spring flowers is at hand, will have but a
poor display in the coming season compared
with that of those who get the work of dividing
and replanting completed before the tops start
freely into growth. I can safely say that nearly
all the hardy herbaceous plants are better
planted now than at any other time, for the
roots are actively at work, the crowns
ready to burst into leaf growth, and if divided

Digitized b)

Gougle

and planted at once they will scarcely feel the
check of removal, and the thorough pulverising
of the Boil will enable the plants to maintain a
vigorous growth the whole season. Such plants
as Phloxes, Paeonies, Helianthus, and other
vigorous growers soon exhaust the soil, and
unless they are taken up and divided, and the
soil well enriched, the flowers become small and
comparatively worthless for cutting. If divided
in good time, before the flower spikes get
checked in growth by removal, there is little
fear but that a good display of flowers will
follow. I may also remark that the old system
of planting these beautiful flowers in close
proximity to stronger rooting shrubs was about
the worst plan that could be adopted. Try an
open, sunny position and early planting, and
await the result with confidence. — James
Groom, Gosport.

YUCCAS.

Among all the hardy plants introduced into
this country none surpass the various kinds of
Yucca or “Adam’s Needle.” There are
several species, hardy and well-suited for flower
garden purposes, and they have the advantage
of being distinct from each other. The effect
afforded by them when well developed is equal
to that of any hothouse plant that we can
venture to put in the open air for the summer,
while they are green and ornamental at all
seasons. They may be used in any style of
garden—may be grouped together on rustic
mounds or in any other way the taste of the
planter may direct. If we had but this family
alone, our efforts to produce agreeable and

Yucca fllamentoaa.

picturesque effect with hardy plants could not
be ineffectual. The free-flowering kinds, fila-
mentoea and flaccida (the former of which we
illustrate), may be associated with any of our
nobler autumn flowering plants, from the
Gladiolus to the great Statice latifolia. The
species that do not flower so often, such as
pendula and gloriosa, are simply magnificent in
their effect when grown in the full sun and
planted in good soil; and bold and handsome
groups may be formed by devoting isolated beds
to Yuccas alone. They are, for the most part,
easily increased by division of the stem and
rhizome, and should in all cases be planted well
and singly. Yucca filamentosa is a very com¬
mon and well known species, and flowers with
much vigour and beauty. It is worthy of cul¬
tivation in every garden—in the flower garden,
pleasure ground, and rough rockwork—and so
is its fine though delicate variegated variety.
It is a native of North America, and thrives
best in peaty or fine sandy soil. T.

Pruning wall climbers.— It is more the
rule than the exception for all kinds of wall
creepers, or climbers, to have far too much
wood left in them, so that the strength of the
plant is exhausted in the production of a lot of
useless spray-like growth, instead of fully
developed flowers. It is true that, owing to
their floriferous nature, they do flower under
any kind of treatment; but, for the lack of
timely attention, the flowers are not half the
size, individually, that they are on plants that
are more vigorously thinned out, as it must be
borne in mind that the young wood of the pro¬
ceeding season’s growth is the Bort to produce

the finest blooms. There is, however, no possi¬
bility of retaining both the old and young wood,
and, consequently, as the easiest way out of the
dilemma, the young shoots get cut off close, and
the old, hard spurs are left. By this means the
floral beauty of many of the best of wall
climbers is practically spoilt. I last year saw
some of the best trained wall climbers that it has
ever been my lot to behold. They were annu¬
ally cut out freely at the winter pruning, all the
old hard flowering spurs of the preceeding year
being cut clean away, and only the long, young
shoots remained ; these were securely fastened
to the wires, and then they received no further
attention for the season. The result was long,
graceful wreaths of fine blossoms, for the Roses,
Clematises, Honeysuckles, &c., flowered at every
joint, and I feel sure that anyone who has been
in the habit oLhaving his wall climbers closely
spurred in, like Pear, or Cherry trees, will find
that if he adopts the above system he will
not only get a far greater quantity, but also
better quality, of flowers.—J. Groom, Gosport .

REPLIES.

12564.—Treatment of Lilies. —If you
cannot keep the plants in frames through the
spring they must be placed in a sheltered posi¬
tion in the open. What should be guarded
against is injury to the young shoots from frost
and heavy rains. If tho pots are stood under
trees where they get plenty of light they will be
fairly well protected ; but the best place is the
foot of a north or east wall, as they are then
sheltered from the rains, which come from the
south and west, and may be easily protected
when sharp frosts are apprehended. Before
Lilies come well into growth they suffer much
if the soil becomes very wet.—J. C. B.

12587.—Bedding Geraniums and Cal¬
ceolarias. —No good can come of striking
Calceolaria cuttings in a cool house to use for
bedding. They would not be rooted by the time
they ought to be planted out. Calceolarias are
often propagated in warmth in early spring,
and, hardened off, are suitable for putting into
the open ground by the end of May. But this
is not the right way of growing them. They
should be put in about the last week in
September, kept quite cool all through tho
winter, and be planted out early in April, and
some branches of evergreens stuck round them.
Then they get good roothold before the hot
weather comes, whereas when planted late in
May they are apt to die off just when they come
into bloom. Zonal Geraniums can be struck in
a cool house in March, but such plants are no
good for bedding ; they, however, make good
specimens for autumn bloom.— Byfleet.

12589.— LIlium auratum In the open
air.—In the case of imported bulbs there is
some danger in potting or planting at once, as
the bulbs have necessarily endured vicissitudes
which lower their vitality, and render them
extremely liable to decay. Owing to the dry
appearance of the bulbs this is not apparent at
the time they come to hand, but it declares
itself later when they come into contact with
the damp soil, and when, of course, there is no
means of observing, and of applying a remedy.
The safest plan is to lay some damp Moss in the
bottom of a box, place the bulbs on it, and bed
them in with dry Moss, shutting them down
and standing the box on the floor of a cool house.
This will give just sufficient moisture to draw
roots from the bulbs without causing rot; and
the bulbs can be examined from time to time,
and decaying portions removed. April is quite
earlv enough to pot them, and then the roots
lay hold of the soil at once.— Byfleet.

12620. —Anemones for the London
suburbs. —The Japan Anemones are sure to
do well, being more accommodating than the
rest of the family. There are three colours
the type A. Japcnica, being dullish red ; A. J.
hybrida or rosea, clear rose ; and A. J. alba
or Honorine Joubert, while. If “Urbs” will
get established plants in pots, and put them
out in the first spell of mild weather we have,
they will bloom towards the end of August and
through September. Any Bweet, Bound soil
suits them, and they do as well in sun as in
shade. They look best in clumps, and plants
from a nursery might be put 12 inches apart.

I am trying A. sylvestris in a shaded border,
but as yet nave had no experience of it. How¬
ever, it being a vigorous grower I believe ft

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Feb. 7, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

629

will do. The failure of A. coronaria a second
year I should take to be due to insects. They
might do better if lifted after dying down, and
the tubers coated with a mixture of clay and
soot before replanting; or perhaps they have
been too much exposed to the sun in summer—
an ordeal they cannot go through.—T. J. W.,
Crouch Hill.

12596. —Disease in English Orchids.—
May 1 again mention this subject, as it is plain
from the suggestion you were good enough to
make that my query was not precise ? It is not
the natural decay of the leaves. Hitherto I
have noticed the disease in the spring, when
not only the leaves, but the flower-stalk and
flowers have been attacked and destroyed ; but
this autumn the fresh leaves of Ophrys apifera
and Ophrys aranifera (which appear at that
time of year) have suffered. It appears first
towards the end of the leaf, and gradually
spreads—in most cases, but not all—over the
whole of the plant which may at that time be
above ground; but, as I said, the root seems
never affected. The genera Ophrys and Haben-
aria are the most liable.—J. Otter, Lindfield.

[ Please send us a leaf or two and we may then
be able to find out the cause. — Ed.]

12648.— Ldlium, Scilla, and Narcissus.
—The Lilium pomponium should be planted in
well drained Boil, placing the bulbs from 6 to
9 inches deep. A surrounding of powdered
charcoal would probably be beneficial to this
Lily, as it undoubtedly is to L. auratum. Scilla
peruviana alba is rather more tender than the
ordinary varieties, and requires a warm, sunny
position in sandy soil. Plant 6 inches deep and
about 12 inches apart. If the mixed Narcissus
consist of ordinary border kinds, plant in clomps
in ordinary soil, and in a position affording them
a little shide in summer. Six inches deep, and
an inch or two apart will do. But if they are
Polyanthus Narcissus, give them a warmer
position and a little protection from frost. They
are better adapted for growing in pots than out-
of-doors.—T. J. W., Crouch Hill.

12643.— Fioeet Irises. —For permanent
planting the varieties of evergreen Iris included
under the general name of Germanica are the
most suitable, being very rich in colour, quite
hardy, and easily grown. The dwarf I. pumila
would be best next the Pinks and Carnations,
and would bloom earlier than the Germanica.
The bulbous Irises—Xiphium and Xiphioides—
are not satisfactory for bedding. To prolong
the bloom obtainable from such a bed, I would
suggest a planting of Gladiolus brenchleyensis
in the centre or among the taller Iris. These
would come in after the other plants were over.
—T. J. W., Crouch Hill .

12639. — Liquorice plant. — Within two
miles of me there are scores of acres of ground
under Liquorice, and buds can be bought by the
hundred or thousand of any of the market
gardeners, or of Mr. Wright, nurseryman,
Pontefract. If “ J. S.” only wants a few buds,
say a score or so, 1 would get them for him, and
send them in exchange for anything choice in
the way of flower roots, say Pansies, Carna¬
tions, or anything he may have. — J. C. Arnadl,
Ferrybridge , via Normanton.

12590.—Birds and Crocuses.—Mico wero surely
the delinquents. We used to suffer jfreatly from these
little peets rooting up and eating the Snowdrops and
Crocuses; but now we are comparatively free from their
depredations, as we keep five oats in the yard, which find
their way into the garden.—A. H. F.

12618.—Transplanting Sweet Williams, An¬
tirrhinums, and Auriculas.—These may all be
planted out in mild weather, but “L. L.” must take care
that a recurrence of frost does not lift them out of the
ground. A dressing of very old manure round each plant
would do much to protect them, or, failing that, Cocoa-nut
fibre, clearing the latter away when all danger is over.—
T. J. W. t Crouch Hill.

12595.—Hardy climbers by the seaside.—I
observed at Great Yarmouth on the houses fronting the
sea, east aspect and exposed to north winds, Virginian
Creeper. Ivy. Jasmines, and Clematis Flammula and
Jackmani, all growing luxuriantly.—W. J. Brand.

Double-blossomed Cherry.— Not many
decidnons-flowering trees are more beautiful than
this, and it is so hardy that no weather injures
it. It will grow, too, in any kind of soil or
situation. The purity of its white flowers is,
moreover, not the least of its merits. They are
much liked in a cut state, even for button-holes.
It is most effective when grown as a standard
on stems about 5 ft. in height; it also looks well
in the shrnbbery border in form of a bush.—C.

Digitized by GOOgfe

OPEN AIR CHRYSANTHEMUMS.
(Answer to Question 12574.)

Havtno cultivated my first Chrysanthemums
in Leicestershire twenty years ago, I know
something of the climate and of its cold clay
soil, and so all the more gladly reply to
A. Strand, who writes asking advice as above.
Out-door culture for the ordinary show kinds,
even as far south as London, is very precarious,
except during seasons like the past. If a sunny
wall, however, is available, some of the early-
flowering incurved varieties may be tried—Mrs.
Rundle, George Glenny, Mrs. Dixon, &c., among
others ; but 1 should advise that the main lot of
plants be of the semi-early flowering kinds. I
will here quote what Mr. W. Piercy says in his
new list of these early sorts : “ The reason
which led me to seek for and grow early flower¬
ing Chrysanthemums was that year after year
all, or nearly all, my hopes were blasted by one
night of sad withering frost. I used always at
that time to grow my plants in the open, having
no glass. Now this must have been, and is still,
the case with many others, and I now allude to
a race of plants that can be grown to perfection
in the open garden of the British Islands, even
in the north. Many are dwarf and robnst in
habit, and thick and stout in petal, fit to stand
wind and rain, and can also be used with great
effect under glass. They are not only good for
the amateur, but many of them for sale and
market are very excellent. They come to per¬
fection in much less time than the late kinds,
saving labour and space in every way. Thus
cuttings of Lyon, put in at the end of June, will
bloom at the end of October—that is, four
months instead of nine or ten which the late
sorts take, and nanum will come to perfection
in even less time. I have had Madame Piccol
bloom in thirteen weeks. If cuttings of Madame
Desgrange are put in on the first of May they
will bloom in October. As regards the culture
they are not particular, except that they like a
rich light soil and plenty of water in dry
weather. Three parts rotten turf, two parts
rotten dung, and ono part coarse sand suits
them well, but after the pots are full of roots
give them liquid manure once a week. Of
course the kind will depend on circumstances
and situation—that is, what is at hand—
rabbits, fowls, or other dung drainings from dung¬
hills, or some artificial manure. Genuine Peru¬
vian guano, 1 oz. to the gallon, does admirably.
The most manageable way is to grow the plants
in pots and stand the pots in saucers the size
that the bottom of the pot will fit or even a
little larger, then in dry weather the water will
stand for a time and be drawn up, as will the
liquid manure, instead of running to waste.
This of course does not apply in early spring
when the plants are in very small pots, but in
summer when potted on. The reason for not
having the saucer too large is that in cose of
wet weather they should not hold the water too
long—not that there is much fear of destroying
the roots, except, perhaps, in the case of Petite
Marie, which is, of all, the plant that takes least
water. I have grown some of my best plants
with water constantly in the saucer.”

Cuttings may be at once inserted in small

r ts of sandy earth, surfaced with pure sand.

place three cuttings around the edge of a
thumb pot, and then plunge in ashes to the
rim in a cold frame. But there is plenty of
time, and cuttings may be inserted as
late as the beginning of May of all the
early kinds named. All the following kinds will
flower in October (some earlier), even if planted
out in May, after all danger from frost is over ;
but some, at least, should be grown in pots for
indoor decoration, especially as the autumn
raiHS soon spoil the freshness of those outside
and unprotected, especially near towns. One of
the best of the semi-early kinds is Madame
Ca 8 tex Desgranges, which may be called an
early or outdoor “Elaine,” with creamy,
instead of snow-white, flowers; Mrs. Culling-
ford and La Vierge are also good, free-blooming
white kinds, and the new white sport of St.
Crouts, although at present rather expensive, is
a good, free-blooming white variety, as also is
La Petite Marie, if propagated in March or
April, and grown in small pots. Adrastes is a
good lilac purple ; Mr. W. Piercy, a good red ;
and Precocite is a fine, clear yellow, and a good,
vigorous growing kind. Sceur Melaine is a
good white, if struck or rooted early; so also

is St. Mary, or Souvenir d’un Ami. L'Africaine,
or George Gordon, if rooted at once will flower
in October ; so also L’Admirable, La Nymphe,
Elaine, Pompon Tonlousaine, Dr. Sharpe, and
Salters Early Blush may be rooted any time
up to May next, and will flower before the
frost. As soon as the plants set their flower
buds, in August or September, a little extra
stimulant of the right Bort effects wonders. Al¬
most any kind of liquid manure may be employed
if diluted with water, but there is nothing better
for producing fine flowers than sulphate of
ammonia, dissolved in water, at the rate of 1
ounce to every 3 gallons of water. This manure
costs about sixpence per pound of any chemist,
and its use is one of the “ little secrets ” which
the growers of large show blooms have been
possessed of for years. Of late years the
French growers have sent over some semi early
Chrysanthemums of the Japanese race, and of
these the following deserve a trial on a sunny
wall near which they should be planted in May :
L’Or du Rhin (bright yellow), M. Henri Jacotot
(bright red orcrimsonh Boule d’Angent (silvery
lilac), M. Lavello (white), L’Admirable (orange
red), Margot (rose chamois). Madame CaBtex
Desgranges is one of the most reliable and most
effective, and should be grown in quantity
outside wherever October flowers are desired.

F. W. Burbidge.

- A. Strand wishes for a list of varieties

suitable for outdoor cultivation, and as at this
time of year there are many readers of Garden¬
ing to whom a few hints may be acceptable, I
have added a few notes for their guidance.
Unless wo have a favourable season like the last
it is of very little use growing the large flower¬
ing varieties to bloom outdoors, as the buds
would generally get spoilt by tho frost in
October; therefore those varietits only should
be planted that are more hardy and bloom
earlier. The early flowering varieties can be
had in bloom from July to November, and being
very free bloomers (and obtainable in a variety
of colours) they will make the borders gay till
the frost cuts them down. The single v-trieii -1
also make good plants for outdoor cultivati j i,
and most of them can be had in bloom b /
the end of October. They aro very fre j
bloomers, and aro not bo easily destroy- 1
by frost as the large fl>wcring varie; e-tr
The above are very easy to grow. The cuttinjs
can be easily struck in a cold frame, such as
A. Strand possesses, as follows:—Cuttings should
be inserted during tho month of February
around the sides of a 3-inch pot, in a compost
consisting of equal quantities of Cocoa fibie i nd
ordinary soil, with the addition of plenty of
silver sand ; water with a fino rose, and plunge
the pots up to the rims in Cocoa fibre in a frame,
and keep shut up close for a few weeks to pre¬
vent flagging. Cover the lights well in frosty
weather. As soon as they show ligns of having
rooted a little, air should be given in the day¬
time in favourable weather. In a few weeks
they will be seen to have taken root, and they
should then have the tops pinched off. I ptefer
to do this before they are potted off, and
they will then soon throw out shoots, when
they should be potted off singly into 3-inch
pots. It is much better to pot them off
thus than to plant out at once into the
ground, as they will succeed a great doal better
and not requiro so much looking after. While
they are growing, the ground should be pre¬
pared for them by having some well rooted
manure dug in. They can with safety be planted
out in April, and after this they requiro very
little attention except watering if very dry
weather sets in ; but when planted out they
derive a great amount of moisture from the
ground, and so do not require watering so often
as when grown in pots. The shoots should con
tinue to be pinched when they are about 4inches
long, but they should not be pinched after the
end of June. As soon as the flower buds appear
they will be greatly benefited by being watered
with manure water ; or a better plan (and the
one that I adopt) is to top-dress with artificial
manure, and continue once a week sprinkling a
little artificial manure around the roots, and
well watering it in. Plants grown as above can
be had in bloom until the frost cuts them down
in November.

A good selection as to variety and colour is as
follows:—Early flowering varieties: Adrastes,
Anastasio, Boia Duval, Curiosity, Casey,

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

630

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb 7 , 1885.

Frederick M&rronet, Frederick Pell, Golden
Mdme. Dom&ge, Illustration, La Petite Marie,
LaVierge, Lyon, M. Pynaert VanGeert, Mdme.
C. Desgrange, Mdme. Pecaul, Mons. A. Dufour,
Mrs. Callingford, Nanum, Souvenir d’nn Ami,
Tresorier Laooste. Single varieties include such
as Brunette, Coachman, Dr. Kellock, Gua
Harris, Henry Irving, Magenta King, Miss
Beckwith, Monte Christo, Mr. Toole, Mrs.
Kellock, Mrs. Langtry. In mild seasons some
of the large flowering varieties will bloom well
out-of-doors, and in case A. Strand would like
to plant a few of these I append a suitable
selection—viz., Mrs. Bundle, Mrs. Dixon,
Elaine, Cedo Nulli (white, lilac, and golden),
Virgin Queen, Rifleman, Red Dragon, George
Glenny, Mdlle. Darnaud, Aurea multiflora,
Here ward, Lady Sel borne, James Salter,
Christine (peach and golden), Mons. H.
Jacotot.

Hollouxiy , London . W. E. Boyce.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.
Glasshouses.

Myosotis dtssitiklora.— This Forget-me-not
makes a pretty pot plant, and will bear a little
warmth without becoming drawn. Seedlings
that have plenty of room to enable them to get
strong may be put singly in 4 inch or 5 inch
pots, with good balls of earth, so that their
roots are not much broken in removal. Give
plenty of water and a light position.

Ferns. —The more compact-growing species
of Adiantum, including A. cuneatum. A. as-
simile, A. gracillimum, and, for large baskets, A.
farleyense, together with some of the Davallias,
such as D. buiiata, D elegans, and most of the
tasselled varieties of Pteria serrulata, make ex¬
cellent basket plants, and when employed alter¬
nately with flowering subjects have a much
better effect than is obtainable by the use of
blooming plants alone.

Poinskttias. —Plants that have done flowering
should be dried off in a moderately warm house,
and then be stowed away where they can be
kept dry and not too oold.

Hyacinths, Narcissi, and Tulips —More
of these should be placed in heat to come in late;
they will now require a little forcing, and
usually flower the best through coming iD
nearer their natural time. They should, how¬
ever, still be kept near the glass.

Zonal Pelargoniums.— Easily managed as
these are, they are often seen in indifferent con¬
dition in winter, producing much more leaf
than flower. Plants that have been well pre-
pared will bear a temperature of 58 degs. or
60 degs. in the night, if located in a light house
and kept close to the glass. Some of the double
varieties, such as Wonderful, scarlet, and
Madame Thibaut, pink, are the most durable,
but do not open freely at a lower temperature
than that mentioned.

Flower Garden.

Aralias. —The varieties of Aralia fitted for
the flower garden are not numerous, but there
are among them about half-a-dozen that are in
every way well suited for summer decoration
out-of-doors, and two that have proved to be
perfectly hardy, having stood unprotected
during severe winters. These last are A
Sieboldi and A. Sieboldi variegata, both of them
introductions from Japan, and presumably,
therefore, natives of that country. The large
bright glossy-green and finely cut foliage of
Sieboldi stands out conspicuously at any season
of the year, but particularly so in winter when
decidnous trees are leafless, and if this were its
only merit it would be ample to justify the re¬
commendation of it to extended culture ; it is,
however, also one of our most effective summer
flowering plants, being especially well suited
for lawns, either as a centre or terminal plant,
or to break up the formality of stiff geometri¬
cal arrangements of bedding plants. The
variegated kind, alternated with the green,
makes a fine bed, but they should not be planted
closer together than 4 feet. An appropriate
undergrowth for the bed Is Salvia argentea or
Guaphalium lanatum, and for winter Sedum
glauoum. The other varieties that do well for
summer planting only are A. papyrifera, A.
heterophylla, A. macrophylla, and A. sambuci-
folia, all of whioh are well adapted for use as

Digitized by txOO^lC

single specimens, the foliage being displayed to
best advantage when so used. If whole beds of
these are planted they should be at such a dis¬
tance apart that the foliage of each plant stands
clear of that of its neighbour. The varieties
here named propagate readily from cuttings
made of ripened wood, taken off with a “ heel/’
inserted in sandy loam and placed in heat. A.
Sieboldi we have propagatea by cutting up the
stems as vines are propagated. Plunged in a
bottom heat of 70 degs. and covered with a bell-
glass they strike root as quickly and success¬
fully as vines.

Sowing seeds.— A first sowing of Sweet Peas
should now be made, and a rich, deep soil is
essential for continuous flowering. Some
growers make the earliest sowings in pots, and
place them in pots to germinate, transplanting
to the open ground when the young plants are
2 inches high, but our experience is that the
check caused by such transplantation is greater
than any advantages gained by thus sowing
them. We prefer to sow them at once in their
permanent positions. Mignonette, Clarkias,
Collinsias, and Larkspurs, may also be sown, for
cutting purposes in any warm nook in the open
ground. As soon as they are well through the
ground they will need guarding against the
attacks of slugs, but besides thinning out this
is about all the attention which they will
require. Every kind of sub-tropical annual
that it is intended to use this season should now
be sown in warmth. Castor-oil plants suffer so
much through transplantation from seed pan*,
that it is best to sow the seeds singly in small
pots. The same remark applies to Maize. Of
Catmas, put two seeds in a pot. Solanums,
Wigandias, Ferulas, and all other kinds do
quite well when sown in pans placed on a gentle
bottom-heat, and covered with glass till germi¬
nation takes place. After that, and till the
seedlings have got a firm hold of the soil, water
must be sparingly applied, or damping off will
result. All stock plants of whatever kind kept
over from last year ought now to be potted.
Dahlias, Salvias, Cannas, and Marvel of Peru
are among the more important of the kinds
alluded to.

General work. —Prune Roses, shrubs, and
trees, and complete any planting of these that
has yet to be done, tying up or placing supports
to the same. Dig and manure all vacant beds
and borders Cut back and nail in climbers.
Keep spring flowers well firmed in the ground,
protect them from vermin, and the tenaer and
more highly-prized kinds, when necessary, from
injury by frost by covering the beds with tiffany
or mats resting on hooped sticks. Turn gravel
walks, mend Box edgings, roll lawns, and pre¬
pare any new additions to the same for sowing
with Grass seeds by working the soil fine and
level. A rich soil is not desirable, but if very
poor a dressing of soot, or wood ashes, or both
mixed, will be found to be an excellent manure.

Fruit.

Vine3.— Follow up disbudding and tying
down in the early house. Stop the shoots at
the second or third joint beyond the bunohes,
and lay in the first Bet of laterals where there is
trellis room for extension. Direct syringing
may be considerably lightened in dark, dull
weather, but the daily application of tepid
water to strong stems, walls, and floors must be
followed up until the bunches come into flower,
and even then a soft atmosphere with a free
circulation of air will be preferable to extreme
aridity. Airing will require careful attention,
particularly in oold, windy weather ; but so
important is a constant change that steady firing
must be pursued every morning until a little air
can be admitted at the apex of the house. Close
early at 75 degs., and run up to 80 degs. for a
short time on bright afternoons. When the
bunches come into flower maintain a steady night
heat of 60 degs. to 65 degs. for Hamburghs, and
70 degs. for Muscats and shy-setting kinds. Run
up to 10 degs. after closing, and re-open the
ventilators, if only half an inch, from the close
of day until the following morning. Fertilisa¬
tion is, of course, an important matter, and
almost every grower has a method of his own,
from a dash with the syringe to a draw over with
the hand ; but, this rough usage being often
injurious to the delicate organs, a camel-hair
brush well charged with Hamburgh pollen will
: best perform this operation.

POULTRY.

Whitewash for poultry houses.— The
frequent application of good lime whitewash is
most beneficial in preserving cleanliness, and
consequently good health among a flock of fowls.
Good whitewash is made by pouring warm water
over quicklime, and when thoroughly slaked
and settled add some melted size, say, a pint to
every buoketful of wash. The addition of about
half a pint of carbolic acid will prove invaluable
in destroying vermin. Let the slides and inside
of the roof of the house receive a good coat of
this mixture, and well work it with a brush
into all cracks and corners. Roosts, nest-boxes,
and all other fixtures should likewise receive a
coat. It is also a good plan to dissolve in warm
water sulphate of alumina and sulphate of
copper, and mix with the wash, which will
cause it to possess the advantages of preventing
the wood from easily taking fire or from de¬
caying. As lime water is good as an occasional
drink for fowls, assisting as it does the forma¬
tion of bone and eggs, and likewise preventing
many diseases, it is a good plan to drain off the
water used in slaking the quicklime, after the
latter has settled, and if stored in a jar and
well corked it will keep for a long time. If
the hens are much given to laying soft eggs, a
little lime water should be used in mixing the
soft food as well as in the drinking fountain.
Powdered chalk may als:> be used in the soft
food to encourage firm-shelled eggs, and it is
also good for preventing diarrhcea,— Anda¬
lusian.

Floors of poultry house.— Many recom¬
mend beaten earth floors for poultry houses,
but they are not good on account of being damp,
and so easily becoming foul and muddy from
the excrement of the inmates. Others recom
mend wooden floors, but these, unless kept well-
covered with dry earth or sand, also quickly
become foul. Besides, they are objectionable
by harbouring insects and vermin. Rats delight
in wooden floors. The kind of floor we always
recommend from practical experience as being
the best in all respects is that made as follows :
Dig out the earth to the depth of 4 inches and
fill in with a mixture of lime, earth, and cinders
made into mortar. If a little Portland cement
be added it will be harder and more durable.
Let this become thoroughly dry and set; then
with a bricklayer's trowel lay over it a thin
layer of equal parts Portland cement and sharp
sand well mixed with water. In a few hours
this will become as hard as stone. If it be kept
well sprinkled with dry earth or sand, or even
sawdust, it can be easily cleaned with a broom
or garden hoe. An occasional wash with water
(in which a little carbolic acid has been mixed)
and a hard broom is a good plan, and acts as a
disinfectant. Dry earth is best for covering the
floor, as mixed with the droppings and stored
in a dry place for a few weeks it forms a splendid
manure.— Andalusian.

QUESTIONS.

12727 —Hen golden pheasant —Will any reader
kindly inform ma through Gakdf.nino where a hen
golden pheasant can be procured ?—T. P.

12728.— Poultry keeping —Would “West Dorset ”
tell me where fowl* can bo got for 3s. 3d. per pair, and eggs
7d. a dozen at some tiun of the year, an I Is. at others, as
mentioned In the paragraph in papt r for January Slst,
and whether I can be suppli-vd regularly ?-Mrs. Rad-
cliftb, Little Park, Wickham, Hants.

12729 — Profitable poultry keeping.— will •* Nil
Deaperandum” kindly answer the under entioned ques¬
tions, which, I am sure, w ill be acceptable to many sub¬
scribers. and more particularly to myself: What site i9
his shed, are the run a id shed 18 feet bv S feet, and were
the twenty chickens hatchet and bred in the run.only
with the other fowls, and nowhere l»esides? Are the
twelve hens all cross breeds, or, if not, what breeds are
they? He might ttate the number of hens laying each
month, the number of egg* laid, with the prices obtained,
and iu what market, and in what town he resides 7
Further, the best bred fowl fur producing most eggs, and
for table use, where he purchases hi< poultry mixture. If
the bread, which he nays is given d\dy, is cut from the
family loaf, or simply the crust* an l refuse from the
table ? As “ Nil Deaporandum ” has kept a diary he can
have no difficulty In answering the above questions, which
will enlighten— An Amateur.

REPLIES.

12602.—Disease in fowls —There is no
doubt from your description that your fowls
have been overfed on too stimulating or bad
food, which has caused the stomach to become
deranged, eventually ending in liver disease,
which the appearance cf the liver of the one
yon cut open dearly shows. We can understand

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Feb. 7, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

631

such a state of affairs where the birds are kept
in a close confined ran, but where they have, as
in your case, an unlimited Grass run, it shows
very bad management indeed. You must feed
for a week or two on very low diet, such as
plain Barley in the morning, scraps (no meat)
midday, and Barley or Oats at night. Under¬
feed rather than overfeed. Likewise, give
a grain of calomel per bird every other day for
ten days. Liver disease is very prevalent just
now, owing to the bad and changeable weather,
especially where the strain of birds has become
weak through continued inbreeding. This is
easily done away with by importing a little
fresh blood into the flock. Damp houses and
runs are active agents for this disease, as well
as want of cleanliness.— Andalusian.

12655.—Oramp in chickens.—When the
chiokens are about twenty four hours old, they
and the hen should be cooped on a meadow,
having the coop always back to the wind, and
fresh ground every morning. Do not cover the
coop at night; feed on rice and barley meal
mixed together, as dry as possible, during the
day, and give them as much wheat as they can
eat for their last feed iu the evening. Always
give a good supply of clean water. 1 bring up
about a hundred evtry year on this plan. Do
not put anything at the bottom of the coop, but
let the chickens be on the grass. Very often a
board at the bottom of the coop causes cramp.
—E. C.

12667 —Fowls and Wind eggs - Your fowls require
plenty of old lime rubbish and era''el to peck and dust
themselves in.—J. C. Kkrsiiaw, Bunbury, Cheshire.

BEES,

REPLY.

12601.— Cleaning hives, &C.—It is a wise precau¬
tion to wash over all hives, frames, and sections that have
been used, with salicylic acid solution, to prevent the
pr pagation of foul brood, by destaging any germs of this
much to be dreaded disease that may be present The
solution should consist of 1 <>unco of salicylic acid and
1 ounce of soda borax to 4 pints of water.—8. 8. G., Box-
worth.

BIRDS.

QUE3TION.

12730.— Rosella Paroquet. — Can any reader of
Gardkning give me any advice as to the treatment of a
Rosella Paroquet, which about twelve months ago lost all
its tail feathers and largo wing feathers, and has been
without them ever tince. Occasionally a few struggling tail
feathers have grown, but have verv toon fallen out again,
or been pulled out by the bird ?— E. Y.

12781 — Length of a canary’s life — The owner of
a canary, that lias been in her possession fouiteen years,
is desi ous of knowing the age to whioh canaries will live.
—G. W. 0 , Teignmonth.

LATE ANSWERS.

Heating Houaes.— The rules given for
he&tiBg houses in your issue of January 31st
are hardly plain enough for working gardeners.
The following, I think, will be more easily
understood, and will he near enough for prac¬
tical purposes. Allowing for a temperature of
22 degs. below freezing, the following lengths
of 4-in. pipe will be sufficient if kept at full power
in the severest weather : Greenhouse, 1 foot of
4-inch pipe for every 5 square feet of glass ;
intermediate, 1 foot of 4-iuch pipe for every 4
square feet of glass ; stove, 1 foot of 4-inch
pipe for every 3 square feet of glass. 20 feet of
4-inch pipe will heat 1,000 cubic feet of air
lOdegs., and allowing for all this heat being
lost by ventilation and radiation every hour,
this length of pipe will keep 1 COO cubic feet of
ep&ce 10 degs. over the natural temperature.—
Tiros. Fletcher, Museum Street , Warrington.

12431. — Carpet bedding. — Pyretbrum
aurenm is the only plant that can be readily
raised from seed suitable for carpet bedding.
Alternantheras are indispensable ; A. amo-aa
has reddish foliage ; A. versicolor grandis has
bronzy-red leaves, and is the strongest grower
of any ; A. p ironychioides aurca has yellowish
leaves. The Pyrethrum and Mesembryanthe-
mum cordifolium variegatum are the most
valuable as distinct from the Alternantheras.
These have yellow leaves. Cerastium tomer-
toffum and LeucophytonBrowni are white-leavi d
plants. The best green-leaved subjects are
Herniaria glabra, Veronica repens, and the
green Sedum. Scdurti "glaucum has glaucous
growth; Sedum kcreUurf^J^n < r«an coloured

growth, and is very useful. Only the Sedums
and green-leaved plants are hardy.—J. C. C.

12605 —Asters.— There arc throe types of Asters: 1.
The incurved ; the best type of which is Truffaut’s im¬
proved Paoony Perfection ; 2. The rtflexed flowers ; of
these, the best known to me is the Viotoria; 8 The
quilled form ; of this, the best is that told under the name
of Reid’s quilled improved (Bctteridjje’s).—J. D. E.

12606.— Ten -weeks Stocks —The b'st type of St cks
for exhibition is the large flowering Pyramidal ten week ;
this gives much larger spikes than tho ordinary ten-week.
—J. D. E.

12607.— Raising Zinnias for borders —Sow tho
seeds in pots over a hot-bed in March, prick out the
young plants in boxes in April, and plant them out in the
borders where they are to flower in May.—J. D. E.

12406.—Ungainly Yews.— Early in April cut back all
the branches to within 18 inches or 2 feet of the stem.
Old Yew trees that have been removed require time to
recover themselves. If the branches are not cut baok,
they will remain In the same unsightly condition for
several years.—J. C. 0.

12617.— Primula Sieboldi,— This does bestina north
aspect out-of-doors—always left out. -E. M. P.

12620.— Anemone for London suburbs —Ane¬
mone japonica alba would do well with you : it frequently
flourishes where A. coronaria does badly.—E. M. P.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Qu*by Column (Lucy Macdermott )-There is no charge.

-Mies AND Pkas and Bbans (/. 5 ).—If you send us a

full and intelligible description of the working of your

trap we may insert your communication.- Growino

Orchids (Janus Silver).— The other book was that of

B 8. Williams, Holloway. -8uadinoGrrrnuoubfs(S.J.).

—Boiled linseed oil is used by painters.- Climbers in

Greenhouse (W. H. W.) —Tho better way would be to cut
the climbers, leaving nothing but the stems and main
twigs This would rid the plants at least of the pest, and

the house could be cleansed thoroughly.- Pot roots or

Dahlias (Enquirer). —Your question has already been
answered by correspondents. If the replies are not satis¬
factory, send it to us again.- Cramp in Chickens (W.

Wells).— You will see question in Gardening of Jan. 31,

and reply in this week’s Ibsuo. - Insects on Ferns

(Miss B ).—Nixt week.

Names of plants —J 1 . C.-l. Rhododendron clli-
atum ; 3, Ceutaurca ragusina; 4. Aspidium aouleatura ;
6, Grevlllea robusta. Send better specimens of others.

- W. H. H 7 . —Rhodochiton volubile- E. S. Cutler.—

Sparmannia afrioana.- Cncle Jeff.— 1, 8sccolabium

calceolare ; 2, Abutilon vexillarium variegatum.-

Belsh ill.— Andromeda arborea- Ivanhoe. —1, Campa¬

nula crespitosa alba ; 2, Saxifraga hypnoides.

Names Of fruits.— E. F. Grifen.—l, Franklin’s
Golden Pippin; 2, Gascoigne's Scirlot Seedling.—
Torrington.— Bedfordshire Foundling; Others not known.
- Oxon.— Hatnbledon Deux Ana Others next week.

Books received. —Official Journal of the Royal Society
of Horticulture fTuscanvJ.—Papers relating to the Inter¬
national Rural Exhibition to be held in April at Buenos
Ayres.—Ensilage and Cultivation of Maize in England.
Jarrold and Sons. Norwioh. and Paternoster Buildings,

London.- Ye Narcissus or Daffodyl Flowre and hys R r ots,

with hys Historie and Culture, etc. Peter Barr and Sons,

King Street, Covcnt Garden.- East Anglian Handbook

and Agricultural Annual. " Argus” Office, Norwioh.

Catalogues received.— Descrlpth'e Spring Cata¬
logue of Seeds, Plants, <£c. W. Smith and Son, Aberdeen.

- Spring Catalogue of Seeds, Plants, and Implements

Wm. Samson and Co., and W. and T. Samson. Kilmarnock *

- Descriptive Catalogue of Chrysanthemums, with Direc-’

tions as to Cultivation. W. E. Boyce, F.R.H.8., Uppo.

Holloway, London.- Selected Garden and Flower Seeds

Michael Cuthberteon. Seedsman and florist, Rothesiv,

N B.- Choice Garden Seed', Vegetables, and Flowers.

Hale and Haussier, Sittingbourne, Kent.- Vegetable and

Flower Seeds. Small and Co., Lime Street, Loudon.-

Select Seed Catalogue and Amateur's Guide. P. M. Fair

and Co., Dublin.- Garden and Flower Seeds. John

Turner, Wethcrby, Yorks.- Florists' Flowers. George

White, Paisley.

T C. PAUL, opposite the Church, CoventGar-

” • den Market, F.orest, Fern Dealer, and Garden Contrac¬
tor.—All our Hardy Perennials are now ready for sending
out; a price list free on application. I beg to call attention to
our Sweet Williams, Wallflowers. Rockets, Lupius, Fox¬
gloves, Hollyhocks, Daisies, Delphiniums, Perennial Phlox,
Pans i es, Polyanthus, Ac. Hardy Fernsof all kind* very che ap.

"DHUBARB, good roots, early Albert and
L^ Victorias, 2s fid. Per dozen ; Seakale. good roots, Is. and
Is. 6d. per doz.; Asparagus plants, Conover’s Colossal. 2years,
2< fid.: 3 years, 3s. 6d. per 100; paokage free —SAMUEL
COOPER, Hadleigh, Suffolk.

OTRAWBERRIES, first year, strong plants.

° VicomteThury (beet early), President, Sir Joseph Paxton,
Elton Pine, and British Queen, 3s. 6d. per 100. carriage free.—
S. COOPER, Hadlei g h. Suffolk. Plant at onse. _

ITARDY CLIMBERS.—Clematis (white), Blue

Passion-flower. Japanese Honeysuckle, yellow Jessa¬
mine, white ditto. American Blackberry’. Vinca elegantissima,
Cotoueaster. Periploca, Pyracanthus (red-berried), Virginian
Creeper, New Veitchii (clings to wall). Ivies and Eccremo-
carpus, all good strong established plants. 2 and 3 years old
Is. 3d. eaoh: any three, 3s. p carriage free.—8. COOPER,
Hadleigh, S uffolk. _

UUALTHAMSTOW. —Suitable for a Florist

" " or Nursoryman, near St. James's Street and Hoe Street
Stations, G.E.R. To be let or sold. 2 freehold h rnses with
good gardens about 1} acr- s. Large* greenhouse, tool bouse,
2-stall stables, and coach-house.—Apply, 87, Long Lane, E.O.

WANTED, as G ROOM and GAR DENE

sober, industrious, competent man — Apply. Btating
age, experience, and references to H. MADDY, Aberajron,
Cardiganshire

me World

CARTERS’

LEVIATHAN,

Per Pint, 2s-,

Poet Free, 2/0.
Per Packet, 6d,
Post Free.

Pods have been
grown 21 Inches
in lengrth.

P ADTCDQ 1 Seedsmen by
UMri I LllO Royal Warrant

To H.R.H. The Prince of Wales,
237 & 238, HIGH HOLBORN, LONDON.

X/TAGNIFICENT BEGONIA SEED—From

L»L flowers 6 in. across, only (plants awarded several first

S rizes), 5a. per pkt.; ditto newest Hybrids (from Marquis of
lute and other grand flowers), 3a. fid.: collection of fire dis¬
tinct colours, including white and yellow, 3a fid.; finest
mixed single, Is. and 2s. ; and grand doubles. 2s. fid. and 5s.
e'pk t. Tne above is guaranteed superior to all other. Try it.

“DEGONIAS 1 BEGONIAS 1—Twelve splendid

-LI »ound, well ripened tubers of my unequalled first prizs
strain, carriage free for 3e. 6d. These include the richest
rose, scarlet, crimson, yellow, and other shades, mixed, with
a few choice doubles. Larger bulbs, 5s. per doz. Extra
choice selected varierits to colour, 6s.. 9s., aud 12*., all free,
Fine doubles, 12s. to 24g. per doz. An uncommonly fine
gathering, quite equal to the best-named sorts." (See Gar¬
dening, September 6, 1381).

B. C. RAVKNSOROFr. Granville Nursery, Lowisham;
and New Eltham, Kent.

OUPE11B GLOXINIAS (crassifolia). — The

hJ finest strain extant. Immense blooms of the richest
colours and strong rich velvety foliago. 12 sound tubers
(finest Hybrid*), just starting into growth, for 3s. 6d: 12
larger. 5s. All free by parcels post, with directions. Splendid
fresh hybrid Beed, Is. and 2s. per pkt.

pHRYSANTHEMUMS. —250 finest varieties.

L/ 12 cuttings (my selection), best sorts for cut flowers, Ac ,
Is* purchaser’s selectiou, Is. fid.; 12 well-rooted plants, 2s.,
25 for 3e. 6d. All correctly named.

•70NALS ! ZONALS !—For early flowering or

LJ exhibition. 12 very strong plants from single pots, the
very pick of all the best re-ent introductions (Pearson's,
Lemoine’g, &c ). producing immense trusses of brilliant’y-
coloured blooms, for 2s. 6d., 3s. 6d., or 5s., aocording to sorta.
Pot now.

■DUCHSIAS for early bloom. Splendid busby

L plants from single pots, struck last summer, and grown
out-doors, best sorts mixed, 3«. 6d. per dozen. Pot now and
shift onoe for grand plants in May.

A BUTILONS.—Finest named, really strong

LL plants. 6 for 2s. 6d , 4s. fid per doz.

PLUMBAGO CAPENSIS.—Lovely pale blue

L flowsr*, a grand lot from tingle pots, year old. Is. each ;
3 for 2s., free.

OINGLE DAHLIAS. — Very fine, compact

^ ground roots, grown in pure loam, 4s. per doz. packed
free. The above when in flower in my nursery were, on the
whole, much superior in colour, form and size to expensive
named kinds (proved) For planting or propaga iog cannot
be surpassed at three times the price. All the above carofully
packed in boxes and sent post free (except Dahlias) for cash
with order to

B. 0. RAVENSCROFT, Granville Nursery, Lewisham,
_Kent._

HARDEN AND FLOWER SEEDS.—JOHN

'J DOWNEE, 8eedsman, 144, Princes Street. Edinburgh,
begs to intimate that hr is now sending out the finest stock
of the above that money can buy, and as J. D. is now in busi¬
ness Bolely on his own account, most of the flower seeds have
been saved under his own supervision, and may be thoroughly
rein’d upon.

HKNTIANA ACAUL1S, 3*. 6d. 100; Varie-

gated Double Daisies, 2s. fid. 100; post free.— GAR¬
DENER. Lisnadill, Armagh

pUCUMBKR PLANfrS. — Telegraph, nice

Lf healthy plants, 8s. per dozen, or post free, 2 for 2s. 6d.—
TH08- HlhSDQN. Bath Green. Homchnreh. Essex. _

OlX Strong Exhibition ROSE TllEES ou own

^ roots, 3e.; twelve, 5s.; fifty, in twenty-five varieties,
17s fid.: all free; my sele Jtion.—Cash, with order, to W.
DAWBKR. Fuetto Brayo Lodge. Guernsey

TTKifCH’S BEET, Pragneil’s Exhibition;

V splendid for exhibition and the beet for general use;
perlareo packet, Is. 6d. poet free.- JAMES VEITCH A SONS,
Royal Exjtic Nursery, Chelsea, 8.W. __

A URICULAS, bloom this spring, named varie-

Li ties. 12s. doz : fine seedline Auriculas. 2 b. doz. Good
time to move.—GEO W. WHEELWRIGHT, Old Swinford.
St ourbridge. __

pRYSTAL PALACE.—Exhibitions of Plants,

LJ Flowers. Fruit. *c , to b« held during 1885
SPRING EXHIBITION OF PLANTS. FLOWERS, Ac—
Friday and Saturday. March 27 and 28
GREAT SUMMER FLOWER SHOW-May 22 and 23.
GREAT ROSE 8BOW-July 4.

FRUIT SHOW AND NATIONAL DAHLIA 8HOW-
8 *-ptembor 4 and 5. ._

GREAT AUTUMN FRUIT 8 w OW AND INTERNA¬
TIONAL POTATO EXHIBITION-October 7 to 9.
GREAT CHRYSANTHEMUM SHOW November 6 and 7.

Schedule? now ready. - Apply W. G. PLEAD, Garden
Superintendent Crystal Palaoe, S.E

UKdANm-C rlAMPA I CjN

682

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 7, 1886.

TOTTENHAM. SPRING, 1885.

New, Rare, & Choice Flower Seeds

(Illustrated).

THIS MOST USEFUL AND INTERESTING

OATAXiOOtTB,

Which everyone with a garden or greenhouse should
possess, ia NOW READY, and may be had gratia
upon application.

It includes, perhapa, the finest list of STERLING
NOVELTIES ever brought together; a grand collection

of HARDY FLORISTS’ FLOWERS; a specially
fine selection of HARDY PERENNIALS, and such
as aro easily grown; GREENHOUSE SEEDS, all
tho most popular; HARDY ORNAMENTAL
GRASSES ; showy SINGLE - FLOWERED
ANNUALS and PERENNIALS. The Catalogue is
BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED, and everything
very fully described. Also, in separate form, a complete
COLLECTION OF MISCELLANEOUS BULBS
adapted for Spring Planting.

THOMAS S. WARE,

Halo Farm Nurseries, Tottenham, London.

VEGETABLES FLOWER

Srrnsttf

W bklWtl Two Stamps

Descriptive Catalogue$Cultural Guide

I PHEAL&CONS

ViU Crawley Sussex.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

A Splendid Collection of 200 best varieties. 12 choico
sorts to include Sanir Melaine, Mrs. G. Rundle, Golden
Geo. Glenuy, White Christine, &o.. for Is. 9d.; 2 doz.,
3 j. Thousands rooted. N.B.—The earliest struck cut¬
tings mako tho finest plants.

Blue Marguerites, for description see Gardening,
Jau. 10th. 2s 6.1. doz.

Violets, Belle de Chatenay, largest double white, 3s. 3d.
per doz.

Hepatlcas, double crimson, choice, 3s. 6d. doz.
Double Pearl Tuberoses, 3s. doz.

Carriage paid. Satisfaction guaranteed.

CRANE & CLARKE,

UIJ.LS1 DE NUR3&RY, HAPDEXHAM, CAMB 3.

I2 SPLENDID DISTINCT BEST ROSES
~ FOR gs

CHRYSANTHEMUM.

CHRYSANTHEMUM.

THE BRAVEST FLOWER OF ALL.

1 OH PLANTS, in 50 finest varieties in cul-

J-VJVJ tivation, for 17o. 6d.; 50. in 25 varieties, for 10a.;
24 in 12 varieties, 5s. 6d. ; 12 separate for 3s; 6 for is.; 3 for
la 6d. All freo for cash with order.

JAMES GUYTON, Florist, Belton. Great Yarmouth.

rpULlPS, Cut or on Bulbs, assorted colours or
1 separate, Is. 6d. per dozen, pi reel post free.-THE
GARDENER, Holly Dodge. Htamfor d Hill, Lo ndon. N. _

F ine autumn sown Plants, Carriage

paid.—Cauliflower (1 varieties), la. 6d. 60, 2a. 6d. 120;
Cabbage (12 varieties), Brussels Sprouts, Kales, Savoys,
Lettuce (3 varieties). Endive, Leeks, Tripoli aud Rocca
Ouions (4 varieties), all at 9d. 60, Is. 3d. 120; red melding
Cabbage, Is. 60, Is. 6d. 120; Beak a e, Is. dozen ; Globe Arti¬
choke plants. 3s 6d. dozen; Strawberry plants, 2s. 6d. 120,
Herbs (31 varieties), 3d each, 2s. 6d. dozen. I lease send for
list, with particulars of cheap collections. Vegetable plants
for different sized gardens at 5s to 25s. Satisfaction
guaranteed.-EDWAIt D LEIGH. Ivy House. Cranleigh,
Surrey. N B.-Bayers of large quantities CauUdower, white
ad red Cabbage plants, Ac , treated liberally.

ASPARAGUS ROOTS.— Harwood Giants,

Xi. v ory strong and fit for abundant produce the first season,
per 100, 7s. Gd.; extra immense roots, per 100, 10s. 6d.—
HOOFER & CO- Covent Garden. Tendon_

QTKAVVBERRIES next summer by planting

Q now.—President, Paxtons, Elton Pine. Keen’s Seedlings,
Vicomteaso de Thury, Princess Alice Maud. 120 strong
p lant* in six fine varieties, for 4s. Any above sorts, sepa¬
rate, 3s Gd. per 100. Free toTjCS&h.

O UT LILY OF THE VALLEY, suitable for

personal decoration and the sick room, sent carefully
packed to any address, at 2s. 6tL per doz. sprays, free for cosh
with order.

JAMES GUYTON, Florist, Belton, Great Yarmouth.

T>UD YOUR OWN ROSES on Strong Seedling

JD Brier 8tocks — Plant now for budding Dext August;
curriaee free. 5s. per 100. Dwarf buiby lio« es. finest Bort*
eSSrong 6«. for dor. ; bushy lUoirc do Dijon R>se* 3ft.
t'»5ft high. 9d. each. APPLE TREES, on Paradise stocks, for
small gardens, all free bearing and very be*t varieties: for
mramids or bashes, 7s 6d. per dozeu sorts. LAUItTJSTINUS,
good rooted bushes. ISin. high. 3s. per doz. Laurels, cauca-
s c i aud rotundifolia, the ha die.*fc and best, 2 > ears old, very
good rooted bushes, lo. 61. per dor All orders must bo
accompanied by a remittance.—H. R. ItLMAN, Nureery
inau. Hereford.___

"DUDOING ROSES, oiroim Maneui t-tooka,
-D for budding in summer. 4s per 100, 2f. 6d. for 5f' i is 6d.
for 25. Package free; cash with order.—W. LOWE, Koee
Grower. Beegtou. Notts.

PALMS, strong, healthy, splendidly foliaged,
A —Latania borbonica and Beaforthia elegans, 20 iuches
high. 12s. per dozen ; sample plant, la. 3d. Latunia borbonica
and Seaforthia elegans, IJ iuches high, 25s. per 101; sample
dozen, 4s. Packages and parcels post free.—Postal orders to
the GARDENER. HoUy Lodge. Stamford HUl. London, N.

PANSIES, Show and Fancy, tinea . Scotch

B. S. WILIAMS’

The Cheapest and the Best.
Never fails.

Per bushel of 14" cakes, 5s.
Per cake, 6d.

Victoria & Paradi-e Nurseries,
Upper Hol loway, Loudon, N.

u1 §Kd Ifare/n

VEGETABLE SEEDS

For small gardens.

POX NO. 1, price 5s., carriage free, contains : —

JD Peas, early and late. Broad Beans, Scarlet Runners, Beet,
Borecole, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrot, Cress, Leek, Lettuce,
Mustard, Onion, Parsley. Parsnip. Long Radish, Turnip,
Radish, Bpiuach, Turnip. Vegetable Marrow.

Box No. 2, price 2s. 6d.. contains Peas, Broad Beans,
Scarlet Runners, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrot, Lettuce, Onion,
Parsley, Parsnip, Radish. Turnip, Vegetable Marrow.

LARGER COLLECTION, 12s. 6d., carriage free, enough
for a good-sized garden.

FLOWER SEEDS

For small gardens, post flree.

OR VARIETIES, all brilliant and beauti-

ful. 2s.

12 varieties, all brilliant and beautiful. Is.

12 varieties aesthetic flowers. Is. Gd This beautiful collection
contains Sunflower, Blue Cape Star, Lace Poppy, Maiden s
Blush. Marguerite, Zinnia, 8potted Grove Flower, Sweet Pea,
Flower of the Gods, Cornflower, Single Dahlia, Corn Mangold.
HOOPER 4 CO , Oovent Garden, London.

FERNS A SPECIALITY.

HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS

OF

FERNS AND SELACINELLAS.

Catalogue on Application.

W. & J. BIRKENHEAD,

FERN NURSERY,

SALE, MA NCHESTER.

T ILIUM CANDIDUM.—This beautiful pure

jj white largo-flowered Lily ehould be in every garden.
3a per dozoH, larger bulbs 4s , extra large £s., post freo. W.
and J. TURKKNI IEAD. Sale, Manchester.

anti .1. DLivivjQDi m^t —— _

A URICULAS. — A splendid lot of this

-ti favourite plant (to flower the coming season should
now be planted). 3s. aud 4s. per dozen, post free —W. and J.
BIRKENHEAD , Sale, near Mo noheBter^

T ovkly lilies AND IRISES. — Wm.

J-l Gordon has still the finest collection of these. Buy of
the importer the three lovely Lilies, Lilium album Knetzeri,
I,ilium Melpomene, Lilium Browni, for5». 6d., six for 9s., post
free. Over thirty varieties of Japanese In«. all hybrids in a'l
hues, and beautifully marked, perfectly hardy, the admiration
last season of all who Baw them, six varietios for ^.twelve
for 15s., the three varieties for 30s.; Liliutn Humboldti, each,
Is., la. 6cL, 2s. 6d.; Lilium euratum-these surprise my
customers - specially imported bulbs. 6d.. 9d..aod Is. 6d. each;
special terms to tho trade.—WM. GORDON, Nurseries,
Twick‘'nham. Middlesex See previous advertisements.

•THE CHEAPEST and BEST in the Trade.—

-L Lilium auratum, Immense bulbs, 12in. to 14in. in circum¬
ference. 12s. perdozen. Is. 3d. each ; lOln. to 12in„ IQs. i>erdoz ,
is each; smaller sizes, 8s. and 6s. per dozen. These bulbs
are thoroughly matured, and will produce immense spikes of
bloom. The best and oheapest ever offered.. Samples sent
free to large purchasers.—WILLIAM INGLlb, Seed Mer-

ch v t. K elso. y.W. _ — _

PI LADiOLI.—The beat in cultivation. Cheap,
VJT From the grand Collection of Varieties which gained
first prize at Crystal Palaoe, Dundee Interuotional, and other
principal tlower shows. -Intending rmrehajers send for Cata¬
logue to A. E. CAMPBELL, Cove Gardens, Gourock, N.B.

nulas, 4s., 6s. ; 12 Delphiniums, 6s , 9s.

jia, 4s , 6e. ; 12Pyrethrum, 6s.; 12 Poteutilla, / b., c .

3rron«, 4 r . 6s. ; 12 Phloxes, 6a ; 12 Iris Japanese,

5s.

9a.

CHEAP OFFERS OF
PLANTS AND BULBS.

List sent on application.

E. G. Henderson & Son

Will.supply any of the following, In choice
varieties, selected by them, in distinot
sorts :—

12 Orchids, 12 choice varieties, 21s., 42s., 60s.

24 Orchids, 24 choice varieties, 42s , 84s., 120a
100 Stove plants of choice collection, 42 b., 63s.

12 Maranta, 6s , 9s.; 12 Crotons, 6s., 9s.

12 Dracamas, 6s., 9s.; 12 Dieffenbachias, 6s. f 9s.

12 Eucharis amazonica and Candida, 6s.. 9s.. 12a
12 Ixoras. 6s., 9a.. 12 b. ; 12 sorts beautiful Mosses 4s.

12 Nepenthes (Pitcher Plants), 42s., 60s.

12 Begonia, beautiful foliaged varieties, 6a., 9s.

12 Cape Jasmines, large-flowered Gardenia, best variety, 6s.
9 b., 18b.

12 Maiden-hair Ferns, 12 sorts. 6s., 9s., 12s.

25 Ferns, choice sorts, 10a ; 25 hardy sorts, 10s.

12 Stephanotis fioribunda profuBa. 12s, 21s.; specimens,
7s. 6d., 10s. 6d.

100 Greenhouse plants, distinct collection, 42s., 63s.

12 Abutilons. choice, 6s., 9s.; 12 Bouvardia* sorts, 6*. 9s.

12 Palms, elegant &d< 1 graceful varieties, Cs.. 9s., 12s., 18a.

12 American Blackberries, choice sorts, 6a., 9s.

12 Greenhouse Rhododendrons, sweet scented, 9s. to 30s.

12 Oranges, Lemons, Shaddocks, and Citrons, 21s- 42s.

12 Azalea indica, choice, covered with buds, 18s., 24s.

12 Camellia, choice sorts, 18s.. 21s- 24s.. 30s.

12 New white flowered Lavender, 9s., each Is.

100 Hardy herbaoeous plants, in 50 varieties, 21s.

100 Hardy herbaieous plants, in 100 varieties, 30s. and 40s
100 Hardy herbaceous plants, rare and choice, 50s. and 60s.

400 Hardy herbaceous plants, in 400 varieties, 84s.

The following 12 sorts In each collect!' n:

12 Oampani
12 Aquilegia,

12 Pentetemon* ---_— . . .

12 Pseonia, splendid, 9s., 6s. ; 12 Helleborus, 6s.

12 Hardy Geraniums, €b ; 12 Fuukia, 6s.; 12 Asters, 6s.

12 Carnations and Picotees. 6s.; 12 Yellow-flowered ditto, 12s.
12 Tree or perpetual flowering Carnations, 6s., 9*

12 Clove Carnation, white andorimsou, 4s.

12 Pinks, choice, 4s , 6 b.

12 Mrs. SinkiiiB, large pure white, clove-rcented, 4s.

12 Perpetual Robb* choioe, 4s , 6s.; fine for cutting.

The following in good showy kinds:—

12 Achilleas, 4s., 6a.; 12 (Enothera, 6s.

12 Anemone japonica, red, white, and rose. 4s.. 6s.

12 Spinea* 6a. ;12 Statice, 6s., 9s.: 12 Thalictrum, 6s., 9s.

12 Sorts hardy Water Plants, 9s.. 12s.

-I nrtn BEAUTIFUL BULBOUS ROOTS

-Lj \Jyj\J for the flower garden. A revised selection for
present planting, 21s. : half the collection, 11s. 6d, Lilies,
Oxalia, Belladonna Lily, Crocosma aurea. Narcissus. Com-
inelyna, Wataouia, Marvel of Peru, Gladiolus, Triteleia uni-
flora. SchizostyliBOOccinea, Rauunculus, Starch and Tasseled
Hyacinths, Colchicum, Helleborus, Jonquils, Zephyranth* s ;
Kcilla, white, blue, and red; Snowflake; Im, Spanish.
English, and German; Ornithogalum ; P-mi y-flowered. Star
and Mountain Anemones, Lily of the Valley, 8ulomon’s
Seal, Star of Bethlehem. Alliums of sorts. Peacock-eyed
Iris, and Snakeshead His. the Dracon Arum, and white
blotched leaved Arums, Amary llis, Jacobea Lily.

CALADIUMS.

E G. HENDERSON AND SON’S SUPERB

• COLLECTION. Fine bu'bs. Post free. 12 distinct
and beautiful varieties, 6a. and 12s. ; 12 choice and rare
varieties, 21s.; 12 new and golden-leaved varieties, 42s. ; 50,

choice collection, 50 varieties, 63 b. .

ACHIMKNE8.—12 distinct varieties, Is. 6d12 do . 3
cor ms of each, 4s.: 12 do., 6 corms of each, 7s.; 12 for exhibi¬
tion, 12 cormB of each, 15s.; 100 corms in 50 varieties, 21a ;
100 corms in 25 varieties, 15s. nYTWI . .

GESNERAS—12 varieties, 5s. GLOXINIA.—12 strong
bulbs, 6s. : 12 rare and beautiful selected for exhibition,
10s. 6d. and 21s. . ,, ... , „

BEGONIAS.—Strong bulbs, beautiful collection, 21a;
12 unnamed, from choice strain, 6s., 9s.

TTENDERSON’S imperial strain of

H FLORISTS TLOWER BE EDS—The continued advance
and improvement in these are all important, aud Hendkr-
bon's strain in the following have the peculiar properties
required, in the substance, colour, aud doubleness of the
flower, with the form of petals and flower, which can onlv
be obtained by constant aDd continued selection if required,
half-prico rackets will be supplied when 12 sorts are ordered.
New Seed Catalogue (Illustrated) wi l bo sent for six postage
stamps freo to purchasers. Novelties for this year are
offered

Auriculas. Is., 2s. 6d.; Balsams, M., Is : Begonias, Is. 2s. 6d.
Calceolarias, Is., 2s. 6d.; Carnations, ?8. 6d
Tree Carnations, 2s. 6d.; ABters. 6d.. lo. M., Is.

Petunias, 6d., Is.; Mimulus, Is.; Pansies, 6d., Is. 6<L
Cyolamen giganteum. Is., 2s. 6d.

Primula sinensis, fimbriated, Is., 2s. 6<l.

Primroses, hardy, fine varieties. Is. . , ,

Polyanthus grandiflora. Is.; Zlnna elegans nana fl.-pleno, la.
Double-flowered Potentilias, Is. l i.

Dahlias, singled flowered, 6d., Is.; Lobeliamagniflea, Is.

Wal lflowers, double flowered, 6d., Is
Aquilegia, 6d.. Is.: Verbenas, Is., 2s. 6d.

Peutstemons, 1 b., 2b. 6d.; Hollyhocks, Is., ^s. 61
Pelargoniums. 2s. 6d.; Gloxinias, Is.

Fuchsias, 2s. 6d.; Antirrhinum, 6d , Is
Delphiniums, 6d., Is.; Sweet Williams, 6d., Is.

Anemones, Gd . Is.; Cockscombs. Is.

ALL THE ABOVE SENT FREE PER PARCEL POST,
ALL D vaWEHES SELECTED BY

E. G. HENDERSON &. SON,

PINE APPLE NURSERY. MAIDA VALE
LONDON. _

QINGLE DAHLIA SEED, saved from certi-

O floated varieties, 6d packet; Nicotlana afflnis, fragrant
white Now i3 the time to sow to obtain good plants.

____ „ . » mnniTTru TTVDDir

very choice, 6d. packet Catalogue of Seeds, Plant* and Cut
ting* one stamp’-J. JAMES, Nurseryman, South Knighton
Leicester.

eice arer. ___ ■ ■-

'VY, small-leaved variety, so pretty lor
J- rookeries Ac- 12 plants Is., carriage free. - H
ENGLISH Vairiie, Cle©dor.p

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

Vol. VI.

FEBRUARY 14, 1885.

No 310.

FRUIT.

VERTICAL FORMS OF TRAINING FRUIT
TREES.

We have a strong impression that vertical forms
of training, such as those illustrated here, are a
great improvement on the old wide-spreading
forms, the making of which took so loDg a time.
By the use of the vertical forms walls are
covered more quickly, the branches are simple
and sj mmetrical, and follow pretty much the
lines which they would take naturally—we
mean as compared with some of the torturous
and complicated styles of training. The work
of training is also, if a good beginning is made,
comparatively easy, and the forms, while useful
and pleasing, are adapted to most kinds of
fruit grown against walls, and are especially
suited to the finer winter Pears.

Canker in Apple trees. —Specimens of
canker in Apple trees, taken week after week
from various gardens and localities to our
amateur gardeners’ meetings at which the
subject was discussed, were examined by the
aid of a powerful mioroscope, and I believe that
in almost every case minute insect life was

not take up this ever written of but never
settled question, and make careful and exhaus¬
tive examinations with specimens from various
localities, and give us something more definite
and reliable than any amount of writing can do.
It would have been a fitting subject, it appears
to me, at the Apple Congress. If “H. W. F.,”
or anyone else, will oblige me with specimens
of cankered wood, cutting half am inch below
the dead place in the bark and as much above
the wound, if the bough is not dead to the end,
I shall be pleased to examine them under the
microscope at our gardener's meetings, and state
results in Gardening Illustrated.—J. Hiam,
Ashtoood Bank, Redditch.

Caterpillar on Gooseberries.— Noticing
several inquiries in Gardening Illustrated
about remedies for the caterpillar which is so
destructive to Gooseberry bushes, I beg to
mention the way in which I have the ground
under them dressed. This is simply to have
good fresh lime slacked to a powder, not made
wet. Spread (when cool) over the ground
under bushes about an inch thick for some way
round the stem. This we do about May, or
earlier if any symptom of the caterpillar appears.
I have had it done for several seasons with un¬
failing success, and think so simple a remedy

of all kind* of green grubs. It can be bought at any
chemists'. It should be used by means of a box with a
perforated top, and ono good dressing will destroy the pest
on any kind of plants. The powder is poison, and after it
has been on a few days it should be syringed off, and the
fruit will be fit for use.—E. S. Harbounk.

12818 —Grafts of Apples and Pears —Some of
the fruit nurserymen supply grafts of Apple and Pear trees.
The price charged is three grafts for the price of one tree.
Each graft at that rate would be threepence or fourpence.
Messrs. Rivers, of Sawbridgewortb, offer to supply grafts.
Very few of them offer them in their catalogues.—J. D. E.

12632.—Training 1 Grape vine.— In the first place it
would be better to make a border and plant the vino out
outside the house, close to the front wall. Train the
growths up under the rafters. They will not do much
good trained down the back wall if the roof is covered.—
J. D. E.

12688.—Grape out-of-doors —From my experience
I should recommend the Gros Colmar being taken up at
once, as being of no use out-of-doors, and a Royal Musca¬
dine (white) or Esperione (black) substituted.—J. 31.

Heating: greenhouses.— I have been
exceptionally successful in heating a greenhouse
14 feet by 10 feet, and, with your permission,
I should like to state the facts as a reply to the
many enquiries on the subject. Oil and gas
stoves, so far as my experience goes, are a com¬
plete failure and a great expense. I have a
No. 2 Star boiler, made by Stevenson and Co.,

Examples of Vertical Tra’ning for choice kinds of Pears.

ound. In many cases this was quite imper¬
ceptible without the aid of magnifying power.
Thete insects, it appeared, were devouring the
soft, inner bark, and appeared to have com¬
menced from the spurs, or where a leaf had
growD, and where access was easy in comparison
to. the hard outer bark. I cannot give the
scientific name of these insects usually found,
although 1 have probably had thousands under
the microscope, and know them as well in ap¬
pearance as an earwig or a woodlouse. If
“H. VV. F., Wexford ’’(page 598) is so “ certain"
that canker is due to “ cold and exposure,” it
is useless to try to convince him to the contrary,
neither do I wish to. Let each enjoy his own
opinion in the matter; but the question crops
op—Which is right ? or, Can all theories be
correct which are assigned as the cause of
canker ? If it is due to cold and exposure, how
is it that frequently boughs die in full leaf in
Bummer ? Does cold and exposure affect here
and there a bough ? or why one spur and not
another ? Again, if that is the cause, how is it
we find that in Canada, as a rule, the trees are
of the very healthiest description, such as it
does an Englishman’s eyes good to see, in com¬
parison to our stunted and dying specimens in
sheltered gardens and orchards, while at the
same time in Canada the trees are subject to
far greater cold and exposure and sudden varia¬
tions of temperature in spring than ours are?
It appears to me a pity that the Royal Horti¬
cultural Society, or sortie other societyi does
Digitized by \__jO vlC

should be generally known. I am surprised to
find many gardeners ignorant of it,—L. Bigg,
Luton,

REPLIES.

12538.—What to grow on back wall
Of Vineries. —From my own practical experi¬
ence, the cultivation of the Orange on back
walls of vineries would not be satisfactory to
the querist, as they require so much cleaning,
and would be at a distance from the glass and
shaded by the foliage of the vines. The Fig is
undoubtedly the best fruit to plant, and evi¬
dently one whereby the most satisfactory results
will follow. Two crops annually could be
gained if they were properly attended to, and
any variety will answer admirably. I have
grown good crope of Nectarines on the back
wall, such as Etrage, Red Roman, and Scarlet;
I can recommend any of these three varieties.—
Thomas Lowe.

12616.—Mealy bug on vines.— If the
vines are badly infested with the bug paraffin
will not kill it. I have never found paraffin to
injure the vines if applied when they are at
rest. If the vines are not badly infested with
the bug “ Derby ” can try an application of it
to them ; but if bad I would advise him to try
tar mixed with soil, applied now. That remedy
oleared out the peat when everything else had
failed.—W. G.

12571.— Green grabs on Gooseberry trees —
Helleboru < powder is an effectual agent for the destruction

and anything more effective, inexpensive, and
satisfactory cannot be imagined. It is con¬
nected to about 50 feet of 3 inch piping, and
stands in a stoke-hole outside the house, pro¬
tected, of course, from the weather. I use
b eese and dross from the coal, mixed with the
refuse from the house fires. As the stove has
an extended feeder, I can put sufficient on to
supply the fire for forty hours, and it will burn
that time without any attention whatever. It
can he seen in operation at my house any time,
and I shall be glad to give anxious amateurs
any further particulars. I have never any fear
of my fire going out. I have kept my house
at 60 degs. during the recent severe frost. It
is over two months since I cleaned the stove out,
and the fire has been burning ever since. This
is the second winter I have tried it with the
most satisfactory results. The cost is about
4d. per week; certainly not more.— L. L. L ,
1, Bath Street , Leamington .

An insect destroyer.— A good and cheap
insect destroyer I make thus : I smoke cigars
freely, and save the hits at the mouth end
when done with. I then put about three dozen
bits in a stone jar with one quart of boiling
water; stir well up, and cover over for two or
three days. When it is nearly as dark as stout
it is ready for use. I syringe my plants and
wash off with hot water in twelve hours after.
It is harmless, and is not oily like some
other insecticides; moreover, it is cheap.—F.

DicKikanw ER5ITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

634

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 14, 1885,

QUESTIONS.

Rules for Correspondents.— All communication*
jor insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor o/Gardkn-
1X0,37, Southampton Street, Co cent Garden, London. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher. The name and
address oj the sender is required in addition to any designa¬
tion he may desire to be useil in thejutper. IVhen moie than
one query is sent each should be on a separate piece of
paper. Answers should always bear the number placed against
the gurry replied to, and our readers vnll greatly oblige us by
advising, so far as their knowledge ami observations permit,
the correspondents who seek assistance. Conditions, soils,
and means vary so infinitely that several answers to the same
question may ojlen be very useful, and those i oh-t reply would
do well to mention the localities in which their exfvrience is
gained. Correspondents who refer to articles inserted in
Gardening should mention the number in which they
appeared.

All answers, with the exception of such as cannot well be
chad tied, will be found in the different dcjHirtments.
Queries not answered should be repeated.

Naming plants or fruit.—Four plants, fruits, or
flowers only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens are sent. We ilo not undertake to
name varieties of florists' flcnoers, such as Fuchsias.
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
name should always accompany the parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
sjwcimons of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12732.— Bats In attic -How can I get rid of bats
which inlet the attics ?-Zor.

12733.-Slug pests. —Should I water tho garden all
over no> with strong salt water for a slug pest?—H ard-
work.

12734.- Crickets In stove house.—What is the best
way to rid a stove house of crickets ? They swarm and
cat off all the Maiden-hair Ferns. — Reader.

12735.—Sowing annuals.—Whon should I sow under
annuals to bloom from December till M-irch? —Scotia,
Fife shire.

12710 —Creepers for western aspect —Kindly
give t .o names of some good evergreen wall creepers for a
western aspect.—L. M., Liverpool.

12737.-Late white Chrysanthemums.— Name
wanted of the best late white Chrysanthemum, preferably
Japanese.— Constant Rbadbr.

12733.— Flowering climbers.— Will anyone tell mo
the names of red, yellow, and pink flowering ohm here,
quit" hardy, for a cold conservatory ?— Erin.

12739.— Lizards in house. —I am troubled with
lizards coming into the house. Can anyone give mo any
information as to how I can prevent this, or kill them ?—
T. B.

12740.— Getting rid of ants —Can any reader tell
me a way to get rid of ants? I have a swarm overrun¬
ning my conservatories and committing sad havoc among
the plants.—It W.

12741.—Growing Balsams and Petunias for
exhibition.— Will any reader tell me the best method
of growing Balsams and Petunias for showing in the
middle of July ?—Another Amateur.

12742.—Tray for striking cuttings.— Would a zinc
or iron tray, with a lamp under it, and a frame and glass
over it, and filled with sand, be suitable for striking cut¬
tings and raising seeds?—A. M. W.

12743 — Claytonia porfollata— Could any corre
spondent tell me whore 1 could get some seed of this
American annual now naturalised in uiany parts of
England?—H. K. C., Salop.

12744. — Japanese Chrysanthemums for
Winter blooming. —Can anyone tell ine how to grow
Japaneso Chrysanthemums to bo in flower now (Feb. 1)?
They are over in most greenhouses, but can be bought at
flower shops. — Scoti a, Fifeshire.

12746.—Flower pots with ridges— Who is the
maker, or where can I get somo flower-pots with ridges
all round in graduated rows, to put cut flowers in ? Tue
centre was for earth and an ordinary fljwcr growing iu it.
They wore a Ivcrtised somewhere over a year ago.—Z ok.

12740.- Sycamore trees and green fly.—I havo
somo handsome Sycamore trees badly infested every year
with green fly. Can you g ive me advice ? Is it possible to

g ut any fluid on the tree now before the leaves appear?—

YUAMORK.

12747-. Pegging down single Dahlias.—Will any
readers who have tried this method of treating single
Dahlias tell mo whether they have found it successful and
effective, and if so give mo the names of a iew having the
best habit for this purpose ? - M. D 6., Hwhlesdun.

12743.-Plants for town.—I should be glad to know
what plants would live and bloom in a small garden at the
back of a houso in the centre of London, i want to make
the borders gay from April or May until August Jas¬
mine does well. Would Sweet Po-m be likely to live and
flower amidst the gas and smoke?—C.

12749.—Cinerarias.—In autumn I had 200 plants in a
col l frame ; when irost came I removed them into a
gree bouse, whore there is moderate heat. They have
been watered twico a-woek, and have now damped off to
one fourth their number. What different treatment
should they have had ?-SuB9cribkr.

12760.— Artificial chemical manure. -I wish to
prepare artificial chemical manure for stimulating the
growth of plants and flowers, and have tried mixtures of
the various chemicals rccommoudoJ. such as nitrate of
soda, phosphute of lime, guano, powdered bones, &o„ but
either from not knowing the proper proportions, or from
other onuses, I have failed to obtain the advantage I anti
pated. in fact, similar plants in ordinary garden mould
generally obtained an advantage over tnoir more favou ed
companions. I should be glad to receive any instructions
from any reader.—M. M . _ _

Digitized by (jOOQIC

12751 —Potting soil.— Last year 1 repotted about
fifty pots of Ferns and the Boil of about half of them has
become as fine as Sago—evidently due to the presence of
somo insect. When watered the soil Is like mud ; when
dry like powder. As tho time is coming for repotting I
should like to know what I can do?—F. G. F.

12762.—Cutting back yellow Broom. -Throe
years since this spnng I sowed a quantity of yellow Broom
seed. La->t autumn twelve months it was eaten back
12 im-hes by cattle. It is now a compact hedge 6 feet high,
with shoots 8 feet or 9 feet high. 1 shall be gl ul to know
when is the right time to cut it back ?—G. H. E.,
Nether ton.

12753.—Pollan Harp.—An urgent case.—A lady who
lias been a subscriber to tiARDixiMt Illustrated for so us
time threatens to give it up unless we tell her, among
other things, where to get an kalian harp. As this is
somewhat out of our way, we trust our readers will come
to our assistance in this our hour of need. Alas 1 we are
not omniscient.— Ed.

12754.—Cloth of Gold Rosa.—I shall be glad of
any L formation regaidmg the best way of growinga Cloth
of Gol i Rose in a cool conservatory. Mine is now planted
in t e soil against tho glass under tho staging on the south
side of greenhouse. It lias grown up through tho staging,
but looks very weak and sickly. Do tho roobs require
more sun and air, and would it do better in a pot on the
staging?—H. M., Isle of Wight.

12755.—Variations of heat in Greenhouse.— In
a lean-to greenhouse, a thermometer suspended 16 feet
from the door and 4 feet from the wall. Immediately over
the surface of a Cucumber bed, shows 17 degrees more
heat than when laying on the bed 10 feet nearer the north
end. This arises from a current of air. Can any of your
readers suggest a remedy 7 Tho windows and doois are
an excellent fit.— Ed. Cook, Durham.

12766. — G rowl ng Lapag erla rosea.—I shall be glad
to know the best way.ot growing Lapageria rosea. 1 have
had one for three years iu a shady corner of my conserva
tory, in the ground. It has grown tall and thin, and
never had a flower. I have Just got another in a put.
Ought it to be put under the glazed part of the conserva¬
tory, and not under the covered or roofed part, where I
placed it, thinking it needed shade? It has plenty of
water.—H. M., Isle of Wight.

12757.— Banksla Roses.— Iv. A. J. has two Banksia
Roses, white and yellow, in a bed about 3 feet wide,
gravel path beyond. They have hnd quantities of manuie.
They are trained against the pillars of a verandah facing
south, but are much exposed to the cast wind. They
have been planted some six yiars, have never flowered,
and are much mildewed. They grow freely, and except
when mildewed look very healthy. K. A. J. will be
obliged for directions how to treat them.

1275S. — Planting out Pansies.— Will "J. C. B.,” or
other writers on Pansies, kindly inform me whether it is
when planting out iu spring that 1 should dip them iu a
solution of soft soap, and if it is the leaves only, or tho
roots also, that should be immersed? I dug in si able
manure in November among common soil in flower plots.
Would that be suitable, or would they do better on an old
grass plot that I am going to turn into garden ?—Dollar,
Stirling.

12759.—Sowing Begonia seed.—I should be much
obliged to “A. E. A.,” who recommends sowing Begonia
seed in June or July, if he will say whether he finds that
the seedlings have time to make good tubers such as will
live through the winter. I have found Begonia seedlings
grow rather slowly in a cool greenhouse, and while I quite
agree with him that the seed would germinate better if
sown late in the season, 1 am doubtful whether thore would
be time enough for the tubers to mature.— Lincolnshire
Rector.

12760.— Glolre de Dijon In greenhouse.— On the
lowest sido of a lean-to greenhouse, whioh is heated, 1
havo planted in a bed of soil, 4 feet by 2 feet, a Rose tree
(Glolre de Dijon), which commenced growing in December
last. Thore appeared to be about forty shoots, which only
grew to about ] inch long, then turned brown and died off.
Since then no fresh shoots have appeared. Tho soil is
composed of equal portions of marl, rotted manure, and
common garden soil. Will any reider of Gardknino
inform me how to remedy tho matter—whether it is
planted in tho proper compost ? Also givo me the names
of Roses which aro best adapted for this kind of house ?—
G. H. P.

12761.—Glazing: greenhouses.—I frequently pass
a range of houses glazed on the principle of slating. The
glass is fixed with two copper clips at the bottom of each
square, an 1 it seem9 so simple that anyone might go over
a great area in a day with the glass. On asking tho pro¬
prietor as to the efficiency of the system, he says he is very
well satisfied with it in every point of view'. Another
person, however, told mo that he had a houso built for
him on the same principle, and he oondemned it in every
possible way, saving, “Tho house lo9t heat, and the wet
came in, and the wind blew through the cracks like a
hurricane.” Will any readers give me their opinions
based on experience as to this system, and any other
svstem that is worth notice, particularly if it combines
cheapness, utility, and simplicity ?-Jas. Loveland.

12762 —Household pets In suburban gardens.
—I have a garden which is enclosed by a high wall at the
end. and on each hide tho walls arc about 6 feet high. I
planted nearly two thousand bulbs, and I find tho majority
of them have been dug up by the “household pets’’ of
my neighbours. It is by no means an uncommon circum¬
stance for me to bo favoured with six or eight cats in my
garden at tho same time. I am a very humane man, and
would not under any circumstances resort to cruelty, or
poisoning. Can you, or any of your readers, give mo a
suggestion as to what means I could odop‘ to protect my
garden from being invaded by these mischievous peats? -
J. W„ KUburn. [Wo pity you sincerely, but think
humanity exercised towards a suburban cat is a weak¬
ness. We boliovo a wire guard ourved at tho top has
proved sufficient in similar cases, but we are sure many
of our readers must have had suoh unfortunate experience
as yours, and will reodlly assist you. Domestic pets aro
often a serious nuisance to other poople, and it is much
to be desired that their numbers should be controlled.—
Ed.)

The following queries are briefly answered by
the Editor, but readers arc invited to give further
answers should they be able to offer additional
advice on the various subjects.

12703 —Henbane — Should the seed be first grown in
greenhouse or artificial hcat, or sown in open and planted

OUt? —AilATRrR.

[Sotc in April in outside border in light soil.]

12764 —Syringing Azaleas.— Ought Aralcos to bo
syringed alter the buns are lormed ?—W. P.

I Yes ; they are all the belter for syringing. Do not syringe
afttr the buds have opened.]

12765.-Sowing single Dahlia seed—Should

single Dahlia be sown at once ?—F. J. H., Hampshire.

[Yes; sow in pans placed in a hotbed, h uted frame , or
greenhouse. ]

12766.—Planting Pea9— What distance should each
Pea iu the drills bo sown to allow of a well-grown crop?—
J. E. H.

[Want 3 feet apart in the drills, and the Peas thickly tn
the foif.J

12767.—Mortar rubbish.—Will anyone tell me if
mortar rubbish from a fowl house is good for my garden,
and, if so, how to use it? The land is rather stiff, and
situated near Gloucester.--T. B.

[Certainly; use it by all vita ns.]

12763.—A work on culture of Auriculas.— la
there any good work published on the culture ot Auriculas,
Carnations, and Plcotces?—N ovice.

["Hardy Florists' Flowerspublished by author, J.
Douglas, Great Gearies, Ilford .)

12769.—Rabbit manure.—I should feel greatly
obliged if anyoue could tell me whether rabbit manure can
be used in the garden, and if so, to what plants it should be
applied, and at w hat time ?—Zio.

[Mix and use with any ether manure.]

12770.— Fuchsla-llke Begonia. —Will any corres¬
pondent tell mo the particular name of a Begonia whose
Mowers are like a bunoh of coral ooloured Fuchsias at the
end of a stalk ?—Mrs. Boyd.

I/I tj probably Degonia fuchsioidcs, an old atul very pretty
greenhouse kind. J

12771.—Hybrid China Roses.— Are the Hybrid
China Roses recommended by ‘‘C.” perpetual bloomers, or
do thoy yield only one crop of their flowers annually ?—
Rose Fancirr.

[They are perpetual bloomers from spring to autumn out

of-dcbors.]

12772.—Pyracantha—I shall be much obliged for full
DBILO of tbis. Is it a British plant, and what are the
meaus of propagation ?—Pyrus.

[/I is Cratcrgus Pyracantha, a native of the south of
Europe, and increased from seed, cuttings, grafts, or layers.
It may be had from nurseries at a low price. J
12773.— Tree for centre of bed.— What evergreen
shrub or small compact deciduous tree would be most
suitable for centre of an oval bed, 18 feet long, ia the
middle of a small lawn about 80 feet square 7 —Pyrus.
Knott ingley.

[Spirtea Lindleyana.]

12774.— Climbing plants for porch — Would a
Passion flower be more adapted for a fun south aspect than
a Clematis ?—Pyrus.

[2/ut/i do perfectly well. The common Passion Flower
(Fussifiora cectvha) does admirably in a south aspul, hut
so do some of the Clematises.]

12775.— Planting black Hamburgh — Will it
grow' and ripen on a west wall iu Norfolk, and how should
it bo planted? I have it at present in a pot.—N orfolk
Amateur.

[Wc think it would have no chance of ripening, except in a
very favourable summer.]

12770.— Lime —Will any reader kindly tell me if lime
from the gashouse is good f r a garden, and how it can best
bo used ? The soil is light black earth, about 2| feet deep,
ami underneath yellow gravel.—W. P.

[Fes; it would be very useful on your soil. Spread it on
the surface and dig it tn..]

12777 —Dividing and planting Potatoes.—

1. When is the best time to divide large Potatoes for seed
—when laying out, or two or three da..s before planting?

2. I have a row of high shrubs, lying north-west aud
south-east. Would it be advantageous to plant Potatoes
on the south-west side ?—Col.

[1. Two or three days or a week before planting. 2. Yes.

12778—Straw v. Moss Manure.— Would some of
your correspondents kindly say which is best for rnakiDg
up a hot bed, or for general gardening purposes—horse
manure from stables where Moss is used, or from stables
wher straw is used ?—H. W.

[■itraw manure is the best. It must be mixed unth leaves
and turned uVtr several tilths bejore it is made into a bed. J
12779.— Fairy rings.— Can any correspondent inform
me of the cause of the rings in pastures commonly cal’cd
fairy rings? They frequently make their appearance
where there has been no cattle or sheep for come time.—
Enquirer.

[ They are caused by the growth and decay of certain kindj
of Mushrooms.]

12780.— Mixture.— Will you please tell me of a good
mixture for every thing—a mixture that most things (hardy
and perennial) will fairly well thrive in? The garden is
situated in Camden Road, and my ground Is very clayey.—
Hardwork.

I The best thing you can do is to gtt as much sand, charcoal,
and lightening material generally as you can into the soil.]
12781. — Removing bulbs to greenhouse.— On
November 20th 1 potted Narcissus poeticus, Duo Van Tbol
Tu ipe, Sparaxis, Ixia, Cbionodoxa, Scillasibirico, Muscari
botryoidcs, aud comosum, and placed them in a cokl
frarao, covering them over with 3 or 4 inches of Cocoanut
floro. When can I bring them Into the greenhouse, where
I maintain a minimum temperature of 45 detrs. Fah ?—
V. Q. P.

[All the bulbs y<ru mention are hardy, and, therefore, may
be taken in as soon as the leaves appear above the surface of
the soil; or you cim leave them in the frame until they begin

iMWRSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Feb. 14, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

C35

12785. — Calceolarias and Carnations.—If the
seel were sowu this summer when would herbaceous Cal¬
ceolarias and perpetual Carnations bloom?—C.D. A.

[Calceolarias arul Carnations must be sown in February or
March in hotbeds if required to flower this year, I/sown in
summer they would bloom next year.]

12783, — Sowing 1 double Wallflowers —Could 1
obtain, by sowing the seed of double Wallflowers at one®,
some young plants fit for blooming during the summer
months ?—P. J. H., Hampshire.

[The best way is to sow in summer, so as to hair, strong
plants for flowering next year. By sowing seeds now you
may obtain plants in the autumn.]

127S4.— Degree of heat for Gloxinias.—What
degree of heat would be necessary to raise Qloxinias from
seed, and would they succeed and flower the same year in
aoool greenhouse?—A. M. W.

[Stealings should be raised on a hotbed, and soirn now,
and if potted and grown liberally they will flower at the end
of summer.]

12785.—Camellias in the open air.— Will anyone
be good enough to give me the names of a few different
varieties most likely to succeed, and some hints as to soil,
time of planting, &c ? Please say how large the plants
should bo when planted.—E. H. W.

[Any of the vaiHetie* will do. Use soil composed of peat
MijFCii with sand. The border must be well drained.}

12786.— Salvia p atens.—I have some Salvia patens
roots. Will some reader kindly tell me how to grow them
for out-doors ?—T. J., Ponder's End.

[In certain soils nr have known this fine Salvia to live
out-of-doors, but about London, and in your district, it must
be Ranted out like most other bedding plants, and should not
be trusted to the tender merries of the winter on London clay.]

12787.— Re-starting Begonias-— I have some Be-
ronias with large leaves, but do not know ths names.
They have been allowed to dry off. How should I start
them again ? They seem quite soft os though they wore
dead.—C. D. A.

[Thry will probably start, although soft, if placed in a
gentle heat ]

12788. — Escallonia macrantha.—I have an Escal-
lonia macrantha which has been planted three years, and
has grown into a bushy shrub. I want to train it along
the wall. Would it Injure it to cut the branches back
close to the main stem ? If not, when is the best time to
prune it ?— Gringo.

[.Vo; it would not be injured. Next month.]

127S9.— Baking soil.—1 have read in several works
on Ferns that the soil should be baked before potting to
kill all eggs of insects, worms, &c., and I should be obliged
if anyone could say if, by baking leaf-mould, peat, Ac., the
nutritious properties uro thereby destroyed.—W. W. H.

[There is no necessity for baking the soil; the nutritious
properties would be impaired ]

12790. — Plants for London rockery.— Will some
correspondent kindly oblige with the names of two or
three plants (low growing) for a rockery (sunny), in the
smoky suburb of Camberwell ?—H. J.

[Any rf the House-leeks, the common Stone crop, the White
Arabic, the erergieen Candytuft, and the yellow Alyssum.]
12791.— Yellow Clematis.— I should be obliged if
any of your readers would inform me where I could obtain
a plant of the Yellow Clematis (C. graveolen ) figured in
Gardening of January'31st; also information as to prun¬
ing, and whether it flowers on the new or old wood ?—
Hi so Arthur.

[Any large nurseryman will supply you. This Clematis U
best when left to itself. ]

12792 —Carnations and Picotees not rooting.
—I have several choice cuttings of Carnations and Picotees
that have been potted since last September, but none
of them seem to have taken root yet. Will you kindly
give me a few hints how do deal with them ? They are
not dead but do not seem to thrive.— T. Turner.

[There is nothing to do but to wait to see if they will root.
Keep them moderately moist.]

12793 — Paraffin and slugs.—Can anyone say from
experioore if *oaking the seed of Poas, Beans, Ac., in
paraffin before planting prevents the attack of slugs, Ac. ?
Several dressings of soot and lime do not seem to have any
effect in my garden.—W. W. H.

[Vo, it does not, as slugs would attack the young plants
all the same. It would, to a certain extent, prevent the
attack of mice, arul red lead is often used for ths same
purpose .]

12791.—Removing Roses. — I havo two Boses
(AirnCe Vlbert and Lamarque) planted against the back
wall of a lean-to conservatory. I am anxious to remove
them, as they are so dirty, and plant them on the north
side of a wire trellis porch. If you think they would be
likely to succed in such a situation when hod I better havo
them removed?— Gringo.

[At any time between this and the end of March.]

12795.— Clayey soil.—I shall be glad of advice in
reference to my garden. About a foot under tho soil it is
soiid clay, it having been formerly a brickfield before the
house was built. Shall I be able to get anything to do well
in this ? If not, what had I better do? —A B bo inner,

[The toil should be mixed with burnt ballast or ashes. You
might burn a portion of the clay, and incorporate it with the
rest to a depth of about 2 feet.]

12796.—Evergreens to flower this year.—Will
Cobc-ea scandens, Habrothamnus elegans andTacsonia Van
Volxemi flower this year in a cool greenhouse from seed
sown now?—A. M. W.

[With one exception we think they will not, but xcehopc
you will not hesitate to sow for all that. We receive a good
many questions of this nature. As to another question sent
by you respecting the shading of a greenhouse, ire think
you, being on the spot, should be the best judge.]

12797.— Vine stems near hot-water pipes.— Will
some experienced Grape grower tell me how near it will bo
prudent to place the ntemB of my vines to the hot-water
pipes in an early house? I siw in ahouso well laden with
Grapes the stems of the vines within 9 inches of the pipes,
but think they must bo liable to get roasted so near.—
Yorkshire.

[// your pipes are moderately heated there would be no
danger in bringing the stems within a foot or so of them.]

Digitized by GOQgle

12798.—Propagating bed in greenhouse.—I
have a greenhouse heated with a ooal boiler and two rows
of 4-inch hot-water pipes, one above the other. Can I in
any way form a propagating bed around those pipc9, that
would be adapted for raising seed equal to an ordinary
hotbed?—W. 8.

[ We do not think anything is quite as good as the ordinary
hotbed, but possibly you might make a little bed of Cocoa fibre
that would help you.]

12799.— Lahlandra floribun da. — Where can I
procure a plant of this, and will “ Subscriber *’ kindly tell
me exactly how to treat it, and whether 1 should be likely
to flower it well in a small unheated house—climate so
mild that Geraniums and Paris Daisies not unfrequently
live out the winter in sheltered spots ?—F., co. Cork.

[This plant requires warm treatment, and therefore would
generally net thrive in an vnheated hemse. It may be
obtained from any nurseryman who deals in hothouse plants.]

12800.— Annuals.—Could I obtain early flowers by
sowing such annuals a9 French Marigolds, Asters, Ac.,
and keeping them indoors till strong enough to plant out ?

F. J. H., Hampshire.

[I'm; you could obtain earlier ones, but you would get the
best result by not trying to be too early, and if your plants
are kept too long in heat they may be too ready to flower, and
be in a weak, puny state. They should be put out stout young
plants. You mix up the questions you send tio much.]

12801.—Evergreen climbers for sunny and
draughty situation.— I have Just erected an iron
arch in a sunny but very draughty situation, and intend to
plant a vine, a Honeysuckle, and some largo flowered
Clematises to grow over it. Would Lardizabalabiternata
or Stnilax aapera also bear such exposure to cold winds?
Some Escallonia macrantha that cover a trellis near the
Iron arch are nearly always browned by the March winds.
—Tat.

[Neither trould do.]

12802.—Flowering Creeper.-I shall be glad to
know what annual flowering creeper wall grow freely on the
outside of my summer arbour, which is situate nearly in
tho centre of the garden in North Worcestershire and faces
the west.—8. II.

[We doubt whether you could get a prettier plant than the
Canary Crce/*r, which looks well by itself, and mingles
gracefully with other things. Sweet Peas, if sown in time,
attain a great heigh t, and might be pretty ngainst one side.
Climbing Nasturtiums (Tropccolum) would also answer the
purpose.]

12803.—Management of small town conserva¬
tory.—win one of your readers kindly tell mo of tho best
small guide to the management of Ferns and flowers in a
small town conservatory, heated with hot-water pipes,
without the aid of forcing houses or otier conveniences?
It must supply the most elementary rules about hoat,
watering, Ac., and in language not too technical for a
beginner to understand.—A. B. C.

[ We fear that nothing is a substitute for a little practical
experience; but papers now appearing in Gardening, and
a little book by Mr. Ravenscroft, on 11 Town Gardening”
(Routlcdge), will give you some hints.]

12804. — Pruning Filbert tree9. — I kept some
Filberts years ago until they spurted, whon my children
planted them, and they were afterwards transplanted till
they grew 8 feet high ; but rarely produced any number
of nuts. I stumped them down to 3 feet, and now they
have shot out in a number of shoots from a few inches to

2 feet long. I want to know how to prune them now the
female blossoms (tho little pink-tipped buds) are showing,
so as to keep them down like Gooseberry bushes, a9, I ain
informed, is done in Kent. —Sabrina.

[Prune them as you would a Gooseberry or Currant bush.]

12805 — Rhododendrons — I got some Hybrid Rho¬
dodendrons four years ago. Most of them are doing well
in sandy peat, and are forming good bushy shrubs, though
they appear to blossom only every second year. Several
of them, and apparently the most vigorous, are throwing
up shoots from tho base of the stem. Should I allow thrso
to grow, or remove them? The stems of some of tho
plants being rather bare this “collar” of young leaves
improves their appearance —J. K., Killiney, co. Dublin.

[Ixave the shoots springing from the base of the plant,
unless they /troceed from below the graft, the stock being the
common variety,]

12806.— Solutions of chemicals- —When should I
water the garden with a strong solution of chemicals that
produce flowers ?— Hardwork.

[The nearest approach to this experiment that we ourselves
ever tried was in our budding years, when we watered a
fine batch of Chrysanthemums with very strong liquid
manure. The next morning the foliage was all in mourning,
and a day or two afterwards we found the plants were dead.
Have nothing to do with 8 f rong solutions of chemicals and
other unnatural notions,and think how little Mature, with all
her beautiful woodlands and mountain pastures, has to do
with strong chemicals. In one of your other questions you
do not say why you wish to use lime water or powder.]

12807.—Pruning fruit trees and bushes.—
Will you give some concise instructions in Gardening as
to how to prune standard young Apple trees in orchard,
and Gooseberry and Currant bushes in kitchon garden ?—
3. M. W.

[For standarxl Apples slightly shorten the young shoots
round the outside of the trees, always cutting back to an out¬
side bud. Remove any cross-growing shoots entirely, and the
other shoots in the centre of the tree cut to within ‘i inches or

3 inches of their base. This is called “ spurringand fruit
will come on these spurs. Generally it may be said that the
less the trees are cut about the sooner fruit will appear. A
Black Currant may be pruned hard. Cut the o d, black-look¬
ing branches out every winter close home ; then there will be
a constant supply of young wood, which is what is wanted.
Do not tip the branches unless the tree is getting too large,
lied Currants require to be cut in an entirely differeut
winner. Shorten every shoot, "spurring,” in fact, to
within 2 inches or 3 inches at the most from the joint where
such shoots left tho old wood the previous spring. As regards
Gooseberry trees, do not let the tips of the boughs drag on the
ground, and do not let the middle of the trees get smothered
with branch's. Any long, straggling branches tip of a few
inches. In pruning always have regard to the shape you
wish the tree to assume, and so restrain any straggling
shoots that tend to give the tree an unsightly appearance ]

12808,— Starting Gloxinias.— When should Gloxinia
be started, and should all the earth be taken off the roots
when repotting ? Should they be watered before repotting ?
—C. D. 4.

[Shake the earth from the roots, and repot in Jresh soil.
If the soil is tolerably moist water will not be rcijuired until
the tubers begin to sprout. They may be started any time
after the present, according to when you want them in
flower. Gloxinias should be raised from seed, and, if it is
sown in early spring in hotbeds, the seedlings will flower the
' same year ]

12809.— Culture of Orach.—I should be much
obliged if some reader of Gardrni.no would (i)give me par¬
ticulars of the culture of Orach Atriplex hortensis. And
(2) state whether tho subject has been treated of in Garden¬
ing Illustrated since January, 1882, and where the plant
istobogoi?— A DrTcn Officer.

[1. This plant may be raised from seed as a young hardy
annual. Sow it in an open border in April, or any time
from March to Mau, and thin out the young plants in good
time. 2. No; as it is never grown in England as a vege¬
table, though it is in France.]

12810. -Lllium auratum bulb.— In October last I
pot a Lilium auratum bulb from Holland, and then potted
it. It has since been in a greenhouse where heat has
been kept up to between 40 and 60 degs. during winter,
but thero is yet no appearance of growth. The bulb was
a very fine-looking largo one, and rather expensive. Will
anyone tell me whether it ie unusually long in thowing
growth, and if so, what should I do ?— Auratum.

[You may wait a few weeks, and then, if no sign of growth
appears, you may rest assured that the bulb has decayed. A
better plan, however, would be to t urn the bulb out of the pot,
and sec in what condition it is.]

12811.— Tacaonla Van Volxemi.— I should be glad
of a few directions os to the proper treatment of this
climber. I have one in a large sized pot, and, although
it grew freely last year, it showed no sign of blossoming.
It is in a cool conservatory and the temperature has never
fallen below* 40 degs., yet it is losing most of the old leaves.
Should it be cut back or not to induce flowering? I can¬
not plant it out having no border in conservatory.—W m.
Hart, 8.W.

[You have it in the right place, but you ought to plant it
out in a nice little border of free loamy soil. Keep it clean,
and treat it well, train it up pillars, arches, or wider the
roof, and it will grow and flower beautifully .]

12812.—Algerian Clematis.—I have several plants
of Clematis raised 6 years ago from seed sent me from
Algeria. The name given me at the time was Clematis
cirrhosa, and the plant was described as winter floweiing
and yellow flowered. I have tried plants in a warm vinery,
stove, planted out in a cold house, and in the open air. I
have also given it away to several people who have tried
it under various conditions, but none of the plants have
ever flowered. Can any reader of Gardemno suggest a
mode of treatment which shall make it flower ? The plants
are very strong and healthy.—S. M.

[A little patience is all you want. We have no experience
of the plant in Yorkshire, tut we know it flowers profusely
in Surrei/ and near Dublin in the open air. Last autumn
we sail' it in Berkeley Castle, Gloucestershire, in the green¬
house, flowering freely. It may be easily grown in a green¬
house, but those who live in mild districts an t near the sea
should try to get it established in the open air, putting it in
a warm comer among shrubs.]

12813.— Insects on Ferns.— Will someone kindly
give me directions about the treatment of my Ferns ? For
some years the fronds have been eaten away by some
small insect, but I cannot detect anything. The fern-
house has been white-washed several times. I enclose a
specimen.—B. H.

[The injuries to your Ferns are not very recent, and I
could not find any insects on the fronds. If thero is any
fresh damage, ana you cannot find any insects on them
during the day, search the plants carefully with alight at
night. Many insects hide themselves during the day
among the roots, under moss, and any shelter they can find.
-G. 8. S ]

UNANSWERED QUERIES.

12613.— Outdoor aviary.—Will any reader kindly
inform me how to build, ana the best birds to stock, an
outdoor aviary ?—Southsea.

12521 —Window box —I have a window box about 3
feet 6 inches by 15 inches wide, and 4 feet high, covered in
with glass. The aspect is south-west. What flowers would
be most suitable for it ?—B B. C., Birmingham.

12470.—Annuals for cutting.— Will someone kindly
give a list of herbaceous plants and annuals having w*hite
or light-coloured flowers suitable for cutting for bouquets,
etc. ?—Novice.

12551. —Dwarf annuals with variegated
foliage. —If any reader could give me a list of dwarf
annuals with variegated foliage for carpet bedding I should
feel very much oblige I.— One who has Read tub Pafbr
Since rrs Commbnckmknt.

12552.—Holly timber.—Can any reader of Gardening
inform me as to the best market for Holly timber? I
have several fine, straight, smooth trees varying in girth
from 20 inches to 30 inches, and I want to know where
these could be best disposed of, and what would bo the
approximate value of such wood ?— Curator.

12511.—Irish creels.—Will “A Lancashire Poultry
keeper ” who wrote to Gardening of Nov. 22, kindly inform
mo where I could procure a setting or two of Irish creels
eggs, which he recommends so highly for laving purposes t
I should not mind having a c rnple or so of the birds them¬
selves, also tho Bolton grey, which he also speaks highly
of -M. B.

12612.— Breeding cut-throats.— Having lately had
cut-throats given me (one male and two females), I should
like to breed them ; being, however, a novice at it. I
should bo grateful for any information upon tho subject.
As they are more difficult to breed than canaries, and do
they requiro the same treatment ? Should they all three
be put into breeding cage (I have no room for an aviary)
ana left there till young birds are brought up, and when ?
Ought also sham eggs to bo substituted, and what food do
you recommend for them when breedings as I find they do
not care much for hard-boiled eggs? Should be much
obliged if any of your readers could kindly enlighted me
on this matter.— E. 8."H. "

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb 14, 1885.

TREES AND SHRUBS.

A WINTER-FLOWERING HONEY¬
SUCKLE.

There is a Honeysuckle, which, I think, is not
generally known, that flowers naturally about
Christmas. Its name is Lonicera fragrantissima,
and it is one of Mr. Fortune’s introductions from
the north of China; and, although not so large
and showy as some, it is of great value for work¬
ing into bouquets or using for button-holes, for
either of which purposes its pale, highly-
perfumed blossoms are particularly adapted. If
grown in pots and kept pinched in so as to induce
a lot of small, twiggy shoots, it is very florifer-
ous, and also when trained to a wall having a
Bunny aspect, and treated in the same manner,
as every joint or bud then emits blooms, which
are produced for some time in succession.
The great advantage of growing this particular
kind is that, without any artificial heat what¬
ever, the sweet odours of this favourite class of
plants may be enjoyed at a dull time of the year,
as all it requires is a little shelter from the
wintry blast, and when this is afforded quanti¬
ties of flowers may be gathered
from it. The best way to treat it
when it is used as a pot plant is
to spur or prune it back a little
every spring just before the young
growth commences, so as to get
as many fresh shoots as possible,
and if the heads are nipped out
well they will break again and
form fine bushy heads. Two or
three of these placed in a green¬
house would quite scent the air,
and last till any of the other
▼arieth s can be got in. The best
of these for forcing are the shrubby
kinds, such as Ledebourii, prcecox :

and odoratissima; but most of the ife ac

climbing varieties are amenable
to the same treatment, and when
somewhat stunted in pots partake
a good deal of the habit of the
former. All the different sorts of
Honeysuckle may be propagated
in several different ways, and cut¬
tings put in of the half-ripened
young wood will strike freely
under glasses in sandy soil on any
open border, or they may readily a

be increased by layers ; but these &

take a year to root sufficiently to
be severed from the parent plant.

Short pieces of the tender growths
taken off with a heel in spring,
and placed in moist heat, soon
make plants, and this is the most
expeditious mode of working up a
stock. _ S. D.

Cotoneaster frig Ida.—This
makes a showy object among trees
and shrubs in early winter. It is
of robust growth, not particular
as to soil, and produces freely
large bunches of bright red
fruits. These, too, seem less liable to be
attacked by birds than those of many other
trees and shrubs, and therefore remain in
perfection for a long time. Their depth of
colour seems to vary a good deal in different
plants, no doubt owing to their being raised
from seed. Comparatively common though it
be, it is certainly better worth the attention of
planters than many more often employed by
them.—A.

REPLIES.

12406 -Ungainly Yews.— It would hardly be safe
to cut the branches in close to the stem, so os to leave it
bare ; but they may safely be shortened to within 0 inches
of it. Operate the middle of March, and they will break
Into growth when the time arrives for them to do so.—
J. C. B.

1 **® 5 ,-—Unhealthy Holly tree.— The roots have
probably got down into poor or damp soil. Pollarding will
not do any good ; but if you could give a top-dressing of
loam or rott n dung, or even the latter only, to a distance
of 16 feet or so from the stem It would probably cause a
graduil restoration of vigour by encouraging the forma¬
tion of surface roots.—J. C. B.

The ** Burning Bush.” — it is an old
tradition that the Fraxlnella catches fire when
a light is brought near to it. It is quite con¬
ceivable that this should happen, for the stem
is set with oil gUn^s, which on being touched

Digitized by (jOOQ 1C

give out the strong scent which is peculiar to
the plant. The author of “ The Tour round
my Garden ” notices the tradition, and is in¬
tent upon patting it to the test of actual experi¬
ment ; but some obstacle always occurs at the
oritical moment, and the Fraxinella experiment
is not carried out. Perhaps the wise and witty
AlphouBe Karr had his own reasons for holding
the question thus in suspense, lest so beautiful
an idea should be too rudely dispelled if
brought to the test of fact. For my own
part I have ventured to try, and the experiment
failed. Does John Clark, of Auotermachty, write
of what he has himself seen, when he says that
11 the plants being ignited when in full flower
get in a blaze of flame, and are still none the
worse for it ?” Or have any other readers of
Gardening ever succeeded in producing this
most unique phenomenon ? I venture to raise
this question as one which is worthy of the
attention of botanists as well as florists, and on
i which a collection of well-authenticated evidence
would be of value. I find the following account
1 of the Fraxinella in Professor Balfour’s Botany :
i “ Some of the speoies of Diotamnus, such as
| D. Fraxinella, abound in volatile oil to such a

uj ' n

A fragrant winter Honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima).

degree that the atmosphere around them 1
becomes inflammable in hot, dry, and calm
weather.” Perhaps the success of the experi¬
ment may therefore depend to some extent upon
season, locality, and other similar conditions.
And it would be desirable to learn what these
conditions are. At the same time may I beg
for information on the raising of the Fraxinella
from seed. None that I have ever sowed has
germinated, though I have tried both florists’
seeds and also that which I have gathered and
sown as soon as ripe. Have others experienced
the same difficulty ?— Lincolnshire Rector.

- I was rather startled reading your corre¬
spondent’s (Mr. John Clark) remarks npon the
subject of the above title, which appeared in
your issue of Jan. 31st. He writes as follows :
“ The burning bush is one of our best early
autumn herbaceous plants, named Fraxinella,
the red and the white. Bbth of them emit a

K culiar phosphorous when in full flower, and
ing ignited at that time the plants get in a
blaze of flame, and are still none the worse for
it.” Does your correspondent mean that the
flowers of the plant secrete a kind of phosphor¬
ous, and that when a lighted substance is ap-

E lied it ignites and burns with a flame ? Or does
e mean that the leaves and other parts of the

plant emit a phosphorescent light ? If so, it can
only be seen during the night, or in the dark.
If he means the former, I really fail to see how
the plant can possibly survive such an ordeal.
Bat, if the latter, I should not be much sur¬
prised, as such cases are to be found in some
kinds of fungi, decayed wood, and other things,
I believe. If your correspondent would ex¬
plain the subject, 1 shall be very much obliged.
—I. I. Kidd, Lynn, Norfolk.

SHOWY FLORISTS’ CATALOGUES.

In common fairness to the vast number now in¬
terested in gardening, and especially to those
amateurs about to enter into it, I think the
remarks of 44 Enthusiast ” in No. 307 ought not
to pass without comment. Although an amateur
of only seven or eight years’ experience, I have
grown vegetables equal in every way to any
illustrations I have ever seen in the beBt cata¬
logues of the day, and I am acquainted with
gardeners and amateurs, and have seen flowers
grown by them equal in size, while for beauty,
delicacy of colour, and effect it would be im¬
possible to flatter them in any illustration by
whomsoever brought out. It is
hardly fair that 44 Enthusiast ”
should use his own failure to dis¬
courage others, and I would advise
him to visit some good shows, and
then give your readers the benefit
of his experience. — Another
Enthusiast in Gardening.

Allow me to add my testimony
to that of an 44 An Enthusiast
in Gardening,” in your issue of
January 24th, as to the worthless¬
ness of the so-called new coloured
flowers, and especially of the new
Primula referred to. I also re¬
ceived an illustrated catalogue

from Messrs.-. Tempted by

the exceeding beauty of colour of
the blue Primula, as therein re¬
presented, I bought a 5d. packet
of seed. One seed only came up,
and produced a nice plant with
flowers of a pale, sickly lilac hue.

I sent a specimen to Messrs. -,

expressing my disappointment,
and begging to know if any of the
seed had produced flowers at all
like the illustrated advertisement.

I need hardly add that Messrs.-

have taken no notice of my letter.
—I remain, sir, your obedient
servant,—A Disappointed Enthu¬
siast. _

I find in your issue of January
y 24th a letter from one who styles

himself 44 An Enthusiast in Garden¬
ing.” He states that he has paid
great attention to the vegetable
department in his garden, and that
he has a first-rate gardener, but is
yearly doomed to disappointment
because of the exaggeration of the seedsmen’s
catalogues. He says that neither himself nor his
gardener have been able to grow Peas 5$ inches
long and 1£ inch wide, or Beans 10$ inches long.
Now, sir, I must come to the conolusion
that neither “Enthusiast” nor his man
have grown for exhibition, or been at any
exhibition. 1 am only a cottage gardener
in one of the coldest localities in England,
and I grew Peas last season 6 inches long for
exhibition, and Beans the season before last 12$
inches long. I think it is very wrong to blame
the seedsmen when it is our own fault that we
do not grow vegetables and flowers to perfection.
I have been a grower for exhibition for upwards
of twenty-five years, and I find that every year
there is something to be learnt. The easiest
thing in this world is to grumble. Being a
member of the Horticultural Society I competed
with twelve gardeners last season, and took the
first prize in white Onions.

A Saddleworth Amateur,

" Scotis” writes to “ agree with us that the groat seedsmen
o r the present day are too much given to the production
of showy cat&logueu," but ho is glad to say that he flndi,
after exerting himself, that thoro are yet good genulrw
® be had io the trade. \j , ,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Feb. 14, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

637

WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS.—III.

Pelargonium.

Zonal Geraniums (or, more properly speak¬
ing, Pelargoniums) are among the most valuable
of plants for producing bloom during the dark
days. Immense quantities of the blooms of
these plants are brought into Covent Garden
market from Christmas onward, and indeed at
every season of the year ; but of course they
are mnch more valuable from October to April
or thereabouts than in the summer seasor,
when almost everyone can cut his own.
Most market growers set apart one or more
houses entirely for the production of “cut
scarlet,” as it is termed, such houses being
generally low, span-roofed (with wide panes of
glass which are kept as clean as possible), well
heated, well ventilated, and often from 100 to
200 feet or more in length, by about 12 feet in
width. The plants are generally grown in
5-inch pots, though sometimes 6-inch or even
larger sizes are employed. The plants are well
supplied with water, and an occasional dose of
guano or some other stimulant is given ; an
average temperature of 60 degs. or 65 degs. is
maintained, and air given, chiefly at the apex of
the roof, according to the state of the weather.
Under these circumstances bloom is freely pro¬
duced, and if, as is almost invariably the case,
the house stands in a good open position, and
gets plenty of sunlight, the flowers expand
well, and such a house will often afford as
bright a display of colour at Christmas as a
well-grown bed of Geraniums out-of-doors at
midsummer. The blooms are carefully cut
three times a week, no truss being removeid that
is likely to be larger or better in a day or two
more. If single, the blooms are carefully
gummed, to prevent the petals falling, and they
are then tied up in bunches of ten or twelve
sprays together, and sent to market, where
they bring from 61. to Is. per bunch, or some¬
times, in severe weather, when flowers are
scarce, as much as Is. 6d. or more each.
Market growers, as a rule, do not care for
large trusses, but cultivate only those kinds
that produce a quantity of medium-sized
heads with a minimum of trouble. On the

whole, the old Vesuvius is more grown than
any, being very dwarf and free in habit, and of
a very good constitution ; some, however, prefer
West Brighton Gem, kc. Doubles have lately
been more grown than formerly, as the public
find they do not drop like the single kinds. Of
these Wonderful (scarlet) is a great favourite ;
Madame Thibaut (purple pink), another; and
Candidissima plena, Madame A. Baltet, and
more recently the comparatively new Flocon
de Neige, all good double whites, are much
grown by some, and generally sell well, though
they do not flower so freely as the singles.
Eureka is about the best Bingle white, at least,
up to c^uite recently, though Madame Vaucher
and White Clipper are still grown by some.
Two new whites have, however, been recently
introduced, which will, if even part of what is
said about them be true, entirely eclipse all
older varieties ; these are Queen of the Belgians,
single, perfect in form and all other respects
apparently, and I*a Cygne, double, equally
meritorious. These are said to give grand
results in winter, but have not had anything
like an extended trial yet. But of all the
double scarlets we have yet seen, by far the
most desirable and useful in every way is
F. V. Raspail (syn. Winter Queen), a double of
a very rich shade of crimson scarlet, producing
freely very fine trusses and pips ; the latter wo
have often had considerably larger than a crown
piece. This variety, though of a very vigorous
habit, does not, like the old doubles, run to
growth, but seems to expend all its energies in
the production of bloom. When grown near
the glass and with a fair amount of air it is very
dwarf and branching in habit, and though it re¬
quires a good warmth to expand its blooms
freely, under favourable circumstances it is very
free-flowering, and for beauty and general use¬
fulness its blooms are far before any other
coloured variety, double or single. All these
Geraniums need pure country air to give any¬
thing like good results in winter; anywhere
near London, however well looked after, the

blooms do not open kindly after November at
latest, and the thick yellow “London par¬
ticular” fogs come down ajaout mid-winterland

completely poison the plants, tui

L-winter and

yellow and checking the production of bloom.

1 have seen a large houseful of Raspail
quite a blaze of bloom one •week, and ten days
afterwards a perfect wreck, half the leaves
dropped, the rest quite yellow, and scarcely a
decent bit of bloom to be seen ; and this on the
very outskirts of an outer suburb of London,
where open fields surround the place on three
sides at least. Such a fog has been known
to go down twelve or fourteen miles into the
country (from the outer circle of London),
carrying its poisonous effects, and a thick
peppering of soot, wherever it went. But in
clear country air a wonderful amount of bloom
may be had, with proper attention to the
matters of light, air, warmth, and watering.
Some growers prefer old plants that have been
cut back and repotted, others use spring-struck
plants grown on to 48’s, and stood out-of-doors
in a sunny place for a couple of months in the
latter part of the summer, keeping them almost
dry, and removing all flower-buds as they are
seen. Such plants, when brought into a house
with gentle heat in October, and more liberally
watered, commence at once to throw up a
wonderful quantity of bloom, and are what we
ourselves prefer. Others, again, strike their
cuttings in June or July, and grow them straight
on, with plenty of air, however, indoors ; and I
have seen such plants as fine and full of flower
at Christmas as anyone could desire. As a rule
zonals do best on shelves or wooden stages
near the glass, and over the hot-water pipes, so
that there is always a circulation of air all
round the plants even when the ventilators are
closed ; but I have seen very good plants on a
solid ash bed, if not too far from the light.

But where cut flowers are not so much an

OBJECT AS A FINE DISPLAY OF LARGE TRUSSES, WO
strongly advise the employment of a selection of
the best named, or florists’ varieties, with
large blooms. A really well-grown batch or
houseful of the best of these is, under favourable
circumstances, a sight worth seeing, and if, in
some cases at least, the pips are not quite so
large, or the colour so bright, as in the height
of summer, yet the trusses last much longer in
perfection than they do in hot weather, and it
always seems to us that a well-bloomed zonal
is a much more striking object at Christmas
than in July. A fine display of the best named
sorts is usually to be seen at Swanley at almost
any season, but, though several miles nearer
London, we had, in the middle of November,
plenty of plants bearing bold well-opened pips

2 inches to 2£ inches in diameter. Pots 6 inches
or 7 inches across are about the best size for the
plants to bloom in ; and they should be either
spring struck cuttings grown on with plenty of
sun and air, or old plants that have been
cut back, started again, and repotted. They
should be potted quite hard in a rich, rough
loam, with only a small proportion of manurial
matter, and, like those previously treated of,
should have a position in the lightest, airiest
structure available, in an open situation, where
the maximum of sunshine and light will act on
the plants. The next thing to be considered is
the choice of the most suitable varieties for
blooming in winter. The following list con¬
tains only those that we have ourselves tried,
and invariably obtained good results from:
Lizzie Brooks, soft rosy scarlet, very large ;
Tom Bowling, a large scarlet, of fine form and
colour ; Hettie, light magenta crimson, one of
the best and most beautiful; Kleon, another
fine scarlet; De Lesseps, scarlet, large ; Colonel
Seely, crimson scarlet, with white eye, very
fine ; H. M. Pollett, somewhat similar to the
last; Celia, rosy lake, large and round pips;
Metis, a magnificent soft crimson; P. N. Frager,
scarlet; and W. B. Miller, scarlet; John
Gibbons, fiery scarlet, very large ; Gathorne
Hardy, scarlet, splendid shape; Nelly Thomas,
rich scarlet; J. McIntosh, crimson, with white
eye ; Alcides* Bcarlet, white eye ; Mrs. Lord,
deep crimson ; Ida Walter, deep crimson, one
of the very finest; Lotis, salmon pink ; Fanny
Catlin, rich salmon ; Kate Farmer, rosy salmon,
a grand thing ; Kate Greenaway, Mrs. Robert¬
son, and Queen Matilda, three of the finest
rose pinks extant; and H. Jacoby, the well-
known deep crimson. Add to these the
white varieties previously mentioned, and a
grand display may be made. In addition
to the above (with several others), however,
we have a number of selected seedlings of our
own raising, all of which seem to do remarkably

well in winter. And here it may be remarked
that seedling plants, if from really good seed,
give wonderfully good results ; some of the
finest trusses I have ever seen at midwinter
were on plants raised from seed sown the March
previous. Of doubles, in addition to those pre¬
viously enumerated, the following should be
grown: Grand Chan, Faideherbe, a splendid
deep velvety crimson, and much the best in this
colour ; Gen. Farre, salmon and orange, fine ;
C. H. Wagner, purple-magenta, very free and
good ; J. P. Stahl, rich salmon, large and fine ;
Mdme. Leon Dalloy, delicate blush, extra;
Paul Charbonnier, fine glowing scarlet; W. E.
Gladstone, orange-scarlet, very large ; Sirtae,
immense pure white; and Lakenal, purple-
violet, tine colour. It must be, however, under¬
stood that doubles do not flower so freely,
especially in winter, as the single kinds, and
also that they require from 5 degs. to 10 degs.
more heat to open the blooms properly, or a
temperature of about 70 degs., and seldom less
than 65 degs. The blooms, however, when once
expanded, last much longer than the singles,-
and are more useful if required for cutting.

B. C. Ravenscrqft.

[To be continued.)

12615 & 12626.—Plants for greenhouse.
—The following plants grow very well in my
small greenhouse in the suburbs of Dublin.
I suppose I may call it unheated, as I have only
a “ Heat Radiator ” to keep out frost, and never
light it except during very foggy or frosty
weather. I ao not venture on delicate plants,
as at best these have but “ a struggle for
existence,” and I consider a lot of hardy plants,
healthy and happy looking, far more satis¬
factory than a selection of others which are
either a constant anxiety or liable to damp off
suddenly. At present the shelves are rather
bare of flowers, but the zonal Pelargoniums are
getting bravely through the dull days and have
scarcely lost a leaf. Hyacinths, Tulips, and
Crocuses are beginning to show colour, and pots
of Giant Musk are sending up green shoots, and
will be a fine show by May. A very good hardy
plant is the Com Marigold (Chrysanthenfum
segetum). My plan is to lift it from a field
where seedlings are to be found about Christmas,
pot it in 4-inch pots, and place near the glass.
Pot on and feed liberally, and these plants will
make a great show of colour by the middle of
May, and until the Pelargoniums (fancy) come
in. These are also very good plants for such a
structure—they may be a little late, but the
blooms are not so fragile, and last much longer
than where heat has been used. Fuchsias are
very hardy and flourish near a smoky town,
defying “smuts” and repaying any attention
bestowed in the way of syringing overhead and
stimulants. Mine lasted until the Chrysanthe¬
mums were housed, and then were cut down
and wintered in a light window. The best of
all hardy plants are the Chrysanthemums, both
early and late. Give them light and air, and,
put them where you will, they yield their wealth
of bloom to anyone who cares to grow them.
They commence in September, or earlier if
wished, and bring one over dull November and
up to Christmas, and I fancy that with careful
selection of late Borts and judicious stopping
one may prolong the blooming of this useful
plant until the bulbs and even the Primroses
are round again. This list has by no means
exhausted the capabilities of a cool greenhouse ;
but the plants I have named are those which
do well near a town where I know from experi¬
ence the smoke-laden atmosphere kills outright
many a hardy greenhouse occupant, and so
discourages the amateur from his pursuit. —
Dublin Amateur.

- Abutilon, Acacias, Aralia Sieboldii,

Amaryllis, Acanthus, Achimenes, Auricula,
Azalea, Begonia, Bouvardia, Bignonia, Cal¬
ceolaria, Camellia, Tree Carnations, Cine¬
raria, Correa, Chrysanthemum, Clematis
Cyclamen, Datura, Disa grandiflora, Daphne,
Epacris, Farfugium, Ficus elastica, Fuchsia,
Gloxinia, Habrothamnus elegans, Heliotrope,
Ixias, Lapageria rosea, Nerine sarniensis,
Nicotiana alfinis, Orchids (Cypripedium),
Palms, Plumbago, Pancratium carribbreum,
Passiflora edulis, P. Campbelli, Pelargoniums,
Primula Binensis, Rosea (Noisette and Tea),
Solanum*), Spiriea, Tnberos«, I trust “T. C.”
will be able tc select from the above suflioi^nt

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

688

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb 14, 1885.

varieties to meet his requirements. Many others
might be given with colour, habit, &c. ; but,
no doubt, the editor will cry sufficient. I may
add there are many varieties of Ferns, quite
hardy and highly ornamental, which can easily
be procured in the neighbourhood, together
with many bulbs and species of the Lily family,
of which selections can be made from any of the
trade catalogues.—A. E. A., Ipswich.

12700.— Plants for greenhouse.— J. V.
Battiscombe, Leytonstone, cannot do better
than plant Lapageria rosea and its variety, alba,
in his greenhouse. Camellias, Azaleas, Ferns,
Lilies of the Valley, and Solomon’s Seal would
do well in a shady house ; also Ericas and
Epacris. Fuchsias and Roses might do, but I
doubt it in a house where there is so little sun.
Cinerarias and Primulas would do well, and
Palms of various kinds. J. V. Battiscombe
might try a red and white Oleander.— One who
Loves Flowers,

12607.— Raising Zinnias for borders.
—The Zinnia is rather a tender annual, and the
seed should not be sown until the beginning of
April. Prepare some seed pans or boxes not
less than from 4 inches to 6 inches deep. The
soil should be rather light, and rich, and sifted.
Fill the pans within an inch of the rim, and
then well water the soil; sow the seed thinly,
and cover lightly with fine soil; then place the
pans in a greenhouse at the warmest end, where
they can remain until the third week in May,
at which time the plants should be large enough
to be placed in a cold frame. Plant out in a
rich soil early in June. Many sow the seed of
Zinnias too early, and so lose their plants before
the time to plant them out.—J. C. C.

- If you have the convenience of a

warm house or hotbed, sow in the latter end of
March, and when the plants have two pair of
leaves turn them out into a cool house or frame,
so that by the last week in May they are quite
hardened, and may be planted out the first
week in June. In a cool house or frame sow
in the middle of April; the plants will, of course,
not be so large, but they will be big enough to
set * by the second week in June. When the
young plants are large enough to handle they
should be put separately into small pots.—
By fleet.

- Like most half hardy annuals these

require to be raised in heat. Sow the seed in
shallow boxes or seed pans, and when about 2
inches to 3 inches high transplant into a cool
frame or, if the weather is warm, into a border
well protected from cold winds. Sow end of
March, prick off when the plants are large
enough, and plant out in May (according to the
locality and season) in a good rich soil and
sunny situation. If this plan is followed, and
the plants are not checked in their growth a
fine and lasting display of flowers will be the
result.—J. P., Lancashire .

— Sow the seed in a hotbed or warm greenhouse
about the last week in March. When large enough to
handle they should be hardened off, then pricked out into
a cold frame about 3 inches apart and finally transplanted
to their blooming quarters early in June.— Robt. Hates,
Grasmere.

12685.—Tuberoses not flowering.—
“ Gertrude ” should treat her Tuberoses as
follows : Shake the bulbs out of the pots and
repot them in fresh sandy loam. Put plenty
of sand immediately round the bulbs to prevent
them rotting. Plunge them in bottom-heat and
do not water until the leaves appear; then
water sparingly until the leaves are about
3 inches high. After that you can hardly give
too much water. They should have all the sun
possible, and in summer mine have bloomed
standing in pots out-of-doors exposed to the
full sun. If “Gertrude” follows the above
directions carefully, her bulbB (unless they are
old and worn-out) cannot fail to bloom. When
they have done blooming gradually withhold
water until they are at rest.— One who Loves
Flowers.

12619. — Blue-flowered Chrysanthe¬
mum. —The plant you have in mind is in all
probability Stokesia cyanea, a blue-flowered
composite, quite hardy, but for which our
autumns are not sufficiently sunny. It is an
old inmate of our gardens, but from the abovo
causo but little grown nowadays. A few
market gardeners, however, grow it rather
largely, planting^oul ( ^ljnt* for the

summer in good ground, lifting and potting
them carefully in October, and placing them
under glass, where the flowers expand through
November and the early part of December.
Blue flowers being so scarce at that time, this
Stokesia should be much grown by those need¬
ing cut flowers. Agatha** caleatis is another
blue flowered composite, but it bears much
smaller blooms, and would not be likely to be
taken for a Chrysanthemum, whereas the
Stokesia might be by the inexperienced. There
is certainly no blue-flowered Chrysanthemum.
—J. Cornhill, By fleet .

12614.—Orchids from seed.— The best
way to deal with these is to sow the seeds*near
the base of the plants from which the seeds
have been gathered. Say a pod of Cattleya
seed requires to be sown: I would select a
plant of any common variety of Cattleya that
had been well established for at least twelve
months in a pot. Sow the seeds all over the
surface, and keep moderately moist until the
plants appear. It requires patience, but the
best way is to let the plant alone until the seed¬
lings are large enough to prick out.—J. D. E.

12720.—Lilium, Eucharis and Poinset-
tias. — 1. The very earliest month that
“ Sinchen ” can have the L. auratum in bloom
is May, and then it requires a good deal of
forcing. 2. If she gives the Eucharis plenty of
heat and water it should be in full bloom now.
It will not stand a lower temperature than
6 degs. Fah. when it is going to bloom. 3. The
reason of Poinsettias losing their leaves is that
thev are not grown in sufficient heat. They
will not stand a temperature lower than 55 degs.
Fah., and require abundance of water. —One
who Loves Flowers.

12673.—Best variety of plants.— The
following are twelve of the best Azaleas Indica :
Alice, rose colour; Apollo, white, carmine
stripes ; Charmer, crimson; Bernard Andreas,
violet purple ; ditto, white ; Due de Nassau,
purple; Frederick II., scarlet; Iveryana,
white; Mdlle. L£onie Van Houtte, white;
Monsieur Thibaut, orange ; Sigismund Rucker,
pink ; Souvenir de Prince Albert, rose. Twelve
good AzaleaGhentsare : Ambrosia, red; Beauty
of Flanders, fawn and pink ; Aurantia major,
orange; Benkii, scarlet; Coccinea, scarlet;
Emperor of Russia, pink; Honneur de la
Belgique, orange ; Julius Cresar, crimson; Louis
Bonaparte, fawn; Minerva, salmon ; Nudiflora,
pink; Pontica, yellow; Prince of Orange,
orange ; Rosea rotundifolia, rosy buff. Camel¬
lias : Alba plena, Dachesse Orleans, Fimbiiata,
Jenny Lind, Imbricata, The Bride, Victoria
magnosa, Prince F. William, Grand Frederick,
Countess of Derby, Cup of Beauty, Elegans.
Twelve tree Carnations: Woodley’s Scarlet,
Wilson, Mary Morris, Souvenir de la Malmaison,
Marshal Ney, James Taylor, Mrs. F. Burnaby,
Dr. Foster, Ajax, Guardsman, Superb, Mars.
Twelve good Ixias are : Beauty of Norfolk,
Golden Drop, Lady Slade, Pallas, Nora, Titus,
Smiling Mary, Wonder, Sarnia’s Glory,
Conqueror, Bucephalus, Elvira. There are but
seven kinds of Bouvardia, as follows : President
Garfield, Alfred Neuner, Dazzler, Humboldti,
jasminoides, longiflora, Queen of Roses. A
good nurseryman would be the best to give
“ Amateur ” the names of the best Crotons and
Dracaenas ; but they will not grow in anything
but stove heat.— One who Loves Flowers.

12629.—Primulas and Fuchsias not
thriving.—If the plants have been watered
three times a week they have been killed with
kindness. Primulas want very careful watering
at all times, but especially in winter, the rule
being never to water them unless the soil is
nearly dry. Overwatering causes the roots to
perish and the foliage to damp off. Fuschias
require absolute rest in winter, and should not
be watered more than once or twice from
November till the middle of February, when
they should be pruned back, leaving only two
eyes of the wood made the previous season.—
J. C. B.

12466.—Small glass fernery.—A small
glass fernery or Wardian ewe of zinc might be
purchased for about 10s., and would look neater
and last longer than anything of the kind home¬
made. I have had one of this kind—i.e., zinc
made—for a number of years. The dwarf -
growlng Fern, commonly found in the hedge¬
rows of Kent and Sussex, grow to perfection in

this case ; but the roots should be taken about
the end of March, before the fronds appear.
The common Ivy also grows robustly in the
same case, and makes a good deal of wood,
which might almost be discredited by those who
have not tried it. A small piece will soon cover
the case and require pruning occasionally. A
bell-glass answers equally well. The fountain
can only be provided at very great trouble and
inconvenience, as a tank should be raised above
the case. With a moderate supply of water and
fair drainage no false bottom to carry off the
water will oe necessary.—A. E. A Stamford
Hill.

12617.—Primula Sieboldi.— This can be
flowered in a conservatory, but cannot well be
grown there. When done blooming remove
to a cool, shady place in the open air, placing
under glass again in November. It starts into
growth in March, and if grown in a greenhouse
is apt to become weakly, as it is a lover of
fresh air and the spring sun. The best position
for it is a frame where in fine weather the
light can be pulled off, leaving air on night and
day. In this way a strong growth is made. If
kept all the spring in a greenhou?e, place in
a light, very airy position.—J. C. B.

- This Primula is one of the most exquisite perennia

{ >lants for pot culture or roclcwork we poeeees. blooming
rom March to July and often again in the autumn. The
species from which this variety has sprung is a native of
Siberia. The plant is, therefore, perfectly hardy, but to
ensure its successful cultivation perfect drainage is
absolutely necessary. P. alba grandiflora. P. roaea-alba,
P. maxima.—A. E. A., Ipswich.

-All the varieties of this species succeed admirably

in an unheated house. Place the pots containing the
plants near the glass if possible, as the stems become of
an inordinate length and very weak unless the plants
obtain plenty of air and light—J. D. E.

12612.— Seeds Of Freesia-— Seeds of these may be
obtained from the leading houses in the trade.

12647.—Hyacinths In water —I find that a piece
of charcoal in the water (about sise of Walnut) will keep it
In good condition for about two months.—W. W. H.

BOSES.

OLD-FASHIONED ROSES.

Why these grand old Roses, which years ago
were grown and appreciated, should have been
so long neglected, I am at a loss to know, for in
many points they are superior to the double
Hybrid Ferpetuals, coming in flower, as they
do, in early summer, aod continuing in flower
until very late in the antumn, while for cut
flowers alone they are invaluable. Unlike the
double ones, the above are not at all fastidlons
as to soil or aspect. Keep them free from
weeds, and above all do not hack them about
with the knife. Let them grow naturally, and
their beauty will then be seen, whether grown
on the lawn as single bushes or in masses on
bed or border. Why prizes were not offered
for the old single Roses at our shows I do not
know; but if a stand of cut single Roses were
staged I feel confident that the public would be
at once taken with them, and that they would
come to the front again, as they deserve
to ;do. In the Rugosa section, which bear
very large blooms of a bright crimson colour,

S ou have a very handsome plant when out of
ower, and one that is very useful for decora
tion, &o. This Bose is better known as a
Japanese Rose, being white, rose, and deep red,
having very large flowers and fine foliage, and
being of very free growth. Next I would
mention a very fine one in Paul’s Single
Crimson, of more recent date, but one of the
finest Roses in cultivation, and should be in
every garden where cut flowers are in demand.
The Old Macartney, which should be planted in
masses, is one of the most lovely in cultivation.
The flowers are large and of the purest white,
with deep green foliage, and of free growth.
This is really a gem, which for bouquets and
purposes of personal adornment has no equal.
Muschata nivea is also very fine. Multidors
Lucete, with very large clusters of tiny white
flowers, is in bloom all the summer. Alba is a
very old Rose, and one of the best, but,
like many more, it is now seldom seen. It should
be grown extensively, if only to cut from. Last
is the Austrian Copper, a very distinct and
beautiful rose. It is not so strong a grower as
the others I have mentioned, but its richorangt*
scarlet flowers are brilliant and grand—in fact.

1 have never seen such a distinct colour in soy

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Fbb. 14, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

039

itber Rose. In conclusion I would advice all to
fow these old single Roses, and they will never
regret doing so.

Stamford, W. C. Leach.

REPLIES.

1*2850. — Rose for gTeenhouee wall.—
Th® bast climbing Roses for the outside wall of
s greeahouse facing north are the Boursault
sod Ayrshire. They are hardy, vigorous, rapid
growers, and free bloomers ; while the purple
sod crimson of the Boursault would contrast
well with the white and pink tinted Ayrshires.
Of coarse the Virginia Creeper would do well,
md the common white Jasmine and Clematis ;
bat give me the Roses. For the flower bed—
1 Assume it will get some sun—put single Sun¬
flowers and Sweet PeaB at the back, and try
* few single Dahlias, such as White Queen,
Lutes grandiflora (yellow). Paragon (purple
striped), Gracilis elegants (scarlet). Then a mix¬
ture of Delphiniums, Phloxes, Pceonies, Pyre-
thrums (single and double), Potentillas, and
purple Sweet Scabious, with scarlet Geranium
in front—J. P., Lancashire,

-If “Country Rector ” must have Roses,

ind wishes to cover the wall quickly, he had

counties Camellias would be jast at home
there, but they must have good tibrous loam to
grow in. There are plenty of hardy flowers
capable of maintaining a succession of bloom
through the spring, summer, and autumn.
Daffodils, lulips, Crocuses, Anemones, Prim¬
roses, Polyanthuses, Dog's-tooth Violets, Arabia
albida, Alyssum saxatile, Hellebores, Japan
Anemones, Lobelia fulgent, Wallflowers,
Honesty, Aubrietias, Phloxes (both the growing
and dwarf), Coreopsis lanceolata, Monarda
didyma, Pyrethrums, I'entstemons, Paonies,
Michaelmas Daisies, double scarlet Geum, and
Lilies of various kinds, such as the Tiger, the
Orange, the Old White, the Martagon, and
speciosum, are amongst the showiest and easily-
grown hardy flowers. Hardy annuals sown in
September and put in place in November come
into flower during late spring and early sum¬
mer, and if spaces are left they can be filled up
with tender annuals, such as Asters, Ten-week
Stocks, Zinnias, French and African Marigolds,
Phlox Drummondii, &c. In this way a border
may be maintained in a bright condition at but
little annual outlay.—J. C. B.

1*20*28. — Treatment of clustering
Roses. — Rora Sempervirens, from its hardy
nature and vigorous growth, soon runs riot if

THE TRAVELLERS’ TREE.

This is one of the most striking of all Musads,
and one not infrequently met with in cultiva¬
tion in this country. The plant has a peculiar
appearance, owing to the fan-like arrangement
of its great glaucous leaves, which are larger
than those of any other ligneous plant having
simple foliage. It is nearly related to Musa
and Strelitzia, but differs from both in having
six stamens and woody capsular fruit. The
seeds of this plant are especially beautiful. The
plant is a native of Madagascar, but is also
found in the Strait Settlements, and in Singa¬
pore it is known as the “ Travellers' Fountain,”
the name being derived from the fact that the
great sheathing stalks are capable of holding a
considerable quantity of rain-water or condensed
moisture, which triokles down from the flat
leaves above, and is readily obtained by piercing
the lower part of the sheath. In this way the
tree is said to be a great boon to thirsty
travellers.

As an ornamental or decorative plant it
ranks with the Musas, properly so-called,
and thrives under the same treatment. Fine
effects may be obtained by planting out a speci¬
men of it in the richly-manured bed of a warm

THE TRAVELLERS’ TREE OF MADAGASCAR (RAVEXALA).

better plant the Ayrshire Roses. These are
very hardy, are nearly evergreen, and produce
flowers in clusters. 1 find the hybrid perpetual
Rosea do fairly well on a north wall in Somerset¬
shire, but these are deciduous in winter. For
any other flowering plant, Clematis Jackmani
is probably the safest to plant. For the border,

I should select Winter Aconite, Snowdrops,
Crocuses, Hyacinths ; the white and blue
varieties ofj Mysostis sylvatica would flower
well, as would also white Arabia, Polyanthus,
and Primroses. For the summer, yellow Cal¬
ceolarias, Viola, Waverley (blue), and Cliveden
(yellow) Pansy would no doubt do well in such
a position. Good established plants of Pelar¬
gonium Vesuvium, if turned out of single pots,
would flower fairly well.—J. C. C., Somerset.

- I cannot advise “ Country Rector ” to

plant Roses on a north wall, as few flowering
plants so much require the full sun. Clematises,
such as montana flammula, Jackmanni, Lady ;
Bovill, Viticella, iubra grandiflora, and others,
will bloom very well on a north wall, and
nothing can be much more showy. The winter-
flowering Jessamine (J. nudiflorum), ! Kerria
japonioa, and Pyrus
north aspect, and '

Dign i it -

left to itself ; and of that kind I take it are the
“evergreen clustering Rosea" of C. H. Cope.
The beat way to bring them under control will
be to carefully loosen them from the posts, and
out out sufficient of the oldest wood as low as
possible, keeping enough of new wood and
shoots their whole length so as to cover the
posts well with them. Thin out all bushy
heads, and the new wood and shoots will flower
to their extreme points. It would be well to
give them a mulching of good rotten stable
manure, or in dry weather manure water.—
J. P., Lancashire.

-We had to deal with some Hoses two years ago which

were exactly like those described in this question. We cut
out all the older wood, retaining only the young vigorous
growths, which were left of various lengths. They flowered
splendidly the following season, and also last year, alter a
further portion of the older wood wss removed. Thiy
aro now within sufficient control. -J. D. E.

conservatory, | where, under liberal treatment,
it soon develops itself. It is sufficiently hardy
to withstand our summer climate as a sub¬
tropical plant, but whenso used a warm sheltered
nook should be selected for it.

line (J. nudiflorum), ; kerna
rus japonioa bloom well on a
l in tb^sou^m *ij4i|estern

12722.—Propagating Mistletoe.— Select a branch
of Apple, Poplar, white Thorn, or Plum, that is smooth and
sappy, squeese a berry on the branch, allowing pulp and
seed to adhere by its own visoidity ; it requires no slitting
of the bark. I have adopted this plan In an orchard,
whence 1 have Just returned from inspecting the destruc¬
tion of the parasite ; it has become a perfect nuisance in
about Qfteenyears, and the ground, about an aore, covered
with what has been pulled off.—L oXlbt.

Weeds on lawns.—I often see the question
asked, “ How shall I get rid of weeds on my
lawn?" I can suggest a way of destroying
Daisies, one of the most troublesome. They
will not stand very hard frost; therefore, as we
are likely to have a continuance of oold weather,
now is the time. When a fall of snow occurs and
frost continues, sweep away the snow, leaving
the Grass (which will not be injured) exposed
to the frost. The Daisies, deprived of the De¬
tection which the snow affords, will be killed,
and thus got rid of with very little trouble and
no unsightly holes made in the lawn as by
spudding. I have been led to notice this from
feeding wild birds in winter. The patches of
Grass which were swept in order to scatter
crumbs, Ac., for the birds iu severe weather
could be traced when summer oame by the entire
absence of Daisies, contrasting with the rest of

th«l^wpi-^EjrorBAjip. _LI NOI5 AT

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

640

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 14, 1885.

ORCHIDS FOR EVERY GARDEN.

Introduction.

No garden need be without Orchids, because, if
means can be afforded to grow any kind of
greenhouse or stove plants, the same accom¬
modation required for one will do equally well
for tho other ; and when the culture of Orchids
has been explained it will be found that no
plants require less trouble to be grown well. I
may state distinctly at the outset that Orchids,
like any other class of plants, cannot be grown
into healthy, valuable specimens, unless they
roceive the attention they really need, and
receive it at the right time. It may be taken
for granted that no one would care to grow
Orchids unless he had some special end in view ;
indeed, tho principal object of amateurs and
others taking up the culture of plants is to
obtain relaxation from the cares and the tedious
burden of business occupations ; and I have no
hesitation in saying that no other class of plants
will give so much real satisfaction to their
owners. As Orchids are so easily grown they
do not require any elaborately constructed
houses—in fact, it is not an uncommon occur¬
rence to seo the best cultivated Orchids
growing in tho most cheaply constructed
houses. There is one thing that I have
often noted with satisfaction in regard to
the culture of Orchids, and that is tho
increasing interest taken in them by those who
have once been prevailed upon to enter
upon their culture. If the enthusiasm
is not very great at the beginning it is
sure to increase as one after another
of these fine plants develops its beauties.

An Orchid grower, to be successful, need
not have studied all the details of prac¬
tical gardening ; indeed, he may begin
his gardening experience with the pur¬
chase of his plants, and learn the details
of the work as he proceeds. He would
not be likely to become entirely success¬
ful without a few failures in one thing
or another, and would no doubt expect
to have something to pay for his ex-

E erience ; but the man whose heart is in
is work will be sure to overcome every
difficulty.

Owing to the lar?e importations of
Orchids into this country the prices aro
now so low that their culture can be taken
up at lees cost than it would take to
start with Auriculas, Carnations, Pico-
toes, or any other choice florists’ flowers.

It is also worthy of notice that the
most successful growers and raisers
of florists’ flowers are not practical
gardeners, but gentlemen who have taken
to the plants for very love of them, and
a9 some change from the constaut strain
of business.

Some ten years ago the Orchid was be¬
yond the reach of cultivators of limited means ;
and the notion is still prevalent that Borne
occult sciences have to be mastered before any¬
thing like success can be attained in Orchid cul¬
ture. The object of this and succeeding short
papers will be to dispel this illusion, and to show
that Orchid culture may be pursued as easily as
that of any other class of plants; and that it is also
a healthy amusement.

I fancy the first inception of cool or green¬
house culture for Orchids came from some com¬
bined experiments made by the late Mr. James
Veitch, of Chelsea, and the late Mr. Ure
Skinner. The last-named gentleman, who seems
to have had some business engagements in
Guatemala, sent over many fine Orchids from
that country, among them Lycaste Skinnerii
and Rarkeria Skinnerii. These species of
Orchids were grown for many weeks by Mr.
Skinner in his house at Hillingdon during the
month of January in 1862. One specimen
received from Mr. Veitch on the 2nd of January,
1861, of Lycaste Skinnerii, remained in full
beauty in a room of Mr. Skinner’s house until
the middle of May. There was a fire in the
room during the afternoons and evenings—-that
was all. Orohid lovers were greatly delighted
to read of the results of Mr. Skinner’s experi¬
ments. That gentleman wrote at the time :
“ What a treat to me is this, and 1 think you
should know it, for people have said, * I love
Orohids, but hate the stew-pans one has
to view them in.’ ” From that time

Orchids was solved. They had hitherto
been stewed. Now they are cultivated in
houses bearing some relation as regards
temperature to the mountainous regions
from where the plants have been gathered.
Gardeners and amatours are too apt to go to
extremes in tho culture of their flowers, and
this they did with cool house Orchids. Many
species that were not at all adapted for Buch
treatment were subjected to it, with results
that caused more caution to be exercised in
the future. I have cultivated oool Orchids under
very different conditions for nearly twenty years,
and have visited the best collections in England
and Scotland during that time, and have come to
the conclusion that cool Orchids may be sub¬
jected to a very low temperature for a few
days in winter, but that it is better that the
minimum should not fall below 45 degs., and
should not often be above 50 degs. One of the
best growers told me that during a severe frost
the temperature of bis Orchid house occasionally
fell to 35Jdegs., and, although the plants did not
suffer, he admitted that tiro difficulty of keeping
up the temperature was to him a source of great
anxiety. The quantity of piping required to
heat a house set apart for mountain Orchids need
not be greater than that necessary for a green¬
house ; but no good hothouse builder would
venture to construct and heat even a cool
greenhouse so inefficiently that the pipes re¬
quired to be over-heated to maintain the

the difficulty experitiioed

Digitized by \ jO

oool

A C Utleys.

temperature at 35 degs. Fahrenheit. We do
not have long-continued and severe frosts
as the normal state of things dnring winter
in this country, but we sometimes do have
severe winters, and it is very desirablo to
provide for them, as over-heated pipes tend
to an over-consumption of fuel, and are besides
very injurious to the health of the plants.
Large and lofty greenhouses are the very worst
for Orchids of any kind. If a choice can be
made, I would prefer for cool Orchids a span-
roofed house of the following dimensions :—
It may be of any length, width 12 feet, height
from centre of path to the highest part of the
roof S feet, glass sashes at the side 2 feet
4 inches, centre path 3 feet wide, a stage for
the plants on either side 4 feet wide. Two rows
of 4-inch hot-water pipes on either side are
sufficient to maintain the required temperature.
During tho warmest months in the year cool
Orchids will succeed better in a lean-to house
with a north aspect. Having made the above
introductory remarks, and described the best
form of house, I will in an early number de¬
scribe the occupants and the treatment they
require. James Douglas.

A suggestion.— It would ho of great assistance to
amateurs like m> self if wi iters like " J. C. C.," “ J. D. E.,”
Mr. H jbday, aod others, when advising tho raising of
beddine plants from seed, would also give information,
when the time oomes for planting out, as to what sort of
soli, rich or poor, light or heavy, should be used, what
depth of plant, how far apart. In sunny or shady spots, Ac.
II we amateurs knew these points, less garden failures
would take plaoe.— F. Dickinson.

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

A YELLOW HARDY CLEMATIS.

The pretty yellow Clematis (C. graveolens)
referred to in Gardening Illustrated of
January 31st, has for somo years been growing
in the rectory garden, Ashmore, Dorset, where
it was raised frein seed in 1879, and first
bloomed, as I find on reference to my garden
note-book, in August, 1S80. Last year many
seedlings came up, self-sown, somo of which
were laid in in a spare corner, and from those I
have been able, with pleasure, to supply several
applicants, who, misled by a clerical error in
the note above referred to, wrote to order it.
My supply being limited, I beg to state tbAt
I am unable any further to help my fellow
gardeners in this matter, and beg that those
who have not heard by post will take this as
an apology.

,The eeed was originally obtained from an
Ipswich nurseryman, whose catalogue in¬
cludes many seeds not to be met with
elsewhere, and among them those of the yellow
Clematis (C. graveolenB) and others of the
genus. It is there mentioned that the eeed of
this Clematis vegetates readily, which is not
the cose with many of the species, and that it
has also been known to flower the first year. It
should, perhaps, be repeated that the yellow
Clematis is not a showy species. Many persona
can see no beauty in it; but there is, neverthe¬
less, a great charm to other tastes in its grace¬
ful habit, both when in flower and in fruit.
Being remarkably vigorous in growth, it should
not be planted where it may be likely to
encroach on more delicate climbers, and it
seems to succeed perfectly with any aspect and
in any soil. The greenish-yellow flowers are
succeeded by beautiful tufted seed vessels, with
white feathery awns, which are exceedingly
well adapted for use in Christmas church deco¬
rations.

Another valuable species is C. coccinea,
which may also be raised from seed, but requires
a little patience, as it is sometimes many
months before it vegetates. Seed sown here
in early spring in 1880 did not come up until
late in the autumn, long after roost people, not
aware of this peculiarity, would have ceased
to expect them to appear at all. The seedlings,
once up, grew apace, and the plants flowered
first in July, 1882. The scarlet Clematis is
often coddled under glass from the mistaken
impression that it is tender ; but this is not the
case, and it grows and flowers far better
out-of-doors than even in an nnheated green¬
house.

The colour of its flowers may be described as
bright crimson or cherry colour rather than
scarlot, and in their closed, nrn-like shape they
differ entirely from the ordinary kinds of
Clematis. Unlike the yellpw Clematis it is not
very rampant in growth, and should be planted
in a warm, sheltered position against a wall or
fence. It is much to be regretted that the
handsome, large - flowered, hybrid varieties,
beautiful as they are, should make tho
amateur overlook such interesting species as
the above.

Ashmore Rectory .. K. L. Davidson.

Is Hyacinthus candloans sweet-
scented ?—May not position of plant have
something to do with its scent, or want of it ?
1 had my first spike of bloom two years ago,
from a bulb grown in very dry, sunny situation,
and looked in vain for the slightest perfume.
The bulb was lifted and replanted in a deep
border or very sandy loam, shaded from mid¬
day sun, and the next season the blossoms were
far more refined in appearence, and the scent
(like that of ripo pears) most delicious, a few
scenting a good-sized room. Last summer it came
to nothing.—G ringo.

Eeoallonia maorantha as a covering
for walls.— I do not think there is a prettier
shrub for covering old walls than the above,
when properly trained, especially where other
similar shrubs are known to fail. It is sur¬
prising what a space it will cover In a short
time. It does well on a north or north- eastern
aspect, even when covered overhead with large
trees such as Beech, and it is a shrub upon
whiich the knife can be pretty fiswly t ted if It

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Feb. 14, 1885.]

GARDENING- ILLUSTRATED

641

encroaches on neighbours. Anyone wishing to kills any that may be hid under the soil. No
oover walls quickly, or to make ornamental sings, birds, or rabbits will eat plants dusted
plantations, should not omit a plant or two, as with sulphur, and it does not injure the most
with its dark green foliage or pink blossoms it tender plant or seedlings ; it keeps off woodlice
is prettier than anything else obtainable in the also.—A. M. 0. T.

dreary months of winter.— H. \V. F., co. TF>.r- Krelage’e netted Iris (Iris reticulata
ford. Krelagei).—One would think that such a gem

Single Dahlias. — Single Dahlias have as this would be grown by everyone who could
fairly established themselves, notwithstanding afford to procure a plant or two of it. Sach,
the decided opposition they at first encountered however, is not the case, for in nine out of ten
from all parts. We wonder now if any other gardens that we visit it is not grown, and, more
plant could fill so elegantly and well the many than that, it is unknown. Its splendid rich
nooks and corners they occupy in our gardens, purple blossoms, spangled with gold, have no
Oo where we may, during the autumn months, rival, even among tropical Orchids, yet they
we find single Dahlias in quantity ; they adapt can be had in the open in midwinter. Krelage’s
themselves to all soils and situations, and where variety is the earliest, flowering about ten days
there has been repeated failures in the cultiva- before the typical form. Its blossoms, more-
tion of other plants and flowers, these have over, are readily distinguishable by having
flourished. No one need anticipate failure in more of a violet or plum coloured tint than the
their cultivation, for flowers may be had, and type, and by being somewhat dwarfer. This
had in the greatest abundance, and these too at Ins can be had in bloom as early as Christmas
the smallest cost and least trouble possible, as by coaxing the bulbs on in a slightly warmed

a shilling packet of seed will give sufficient plants
and varieties for any ordinary garden. Obtain
seed now, and sow it during this month or next
in a warm frame or greenhouse. Prick off when
ready, and pot them off singly later on. Keep
them indoors until May, then plant where they
are intended to bloom. They will come almost
true from seed—white almost invariably repro¬
ducing white, and so on. For general decoration
they need no thinning, and but little attention
beyond staking

house or frame.—E.

ROCK GARDENS AND SLUGS.

Thb engraving here shown is that of a little bit
of rock work which Mr. Backhouse, of York, con¬
structed so as to keep away bro wsingslugs from his
choicest alpine flowers. When people supposed
at first that few alpine flowers could be grown
in our country they did not recognise the fact

and tying up. For
cutting they are
exceedingly use¬
ful, ana should
be gathered when
newly expanded,
or they are apt to
shed some of their
petals ; if cut at
the right stage
they will gener¬
ally keep fresh for
three or four days.

If for exhibition
they will repay
careful attention,
and soon respond
to'generous treat¬
ment. For this
purpose the named
varieties should be
selected. Choose
for them a deep
and well-trenched
soil, and do not
forget that they
are most decidedly
partial to well de¬
composed manure
—it is not an easy
task to over-feed

them. Thin out the laterals in July and that two or three hungry slugs would completely
August, pinch off the buds, water liberally, eat up a good plant of some kinds in one night,
mulch the surface of the roots, and in hot Slugs, we need scarcely say, are not found in
dry weather the blooms intended for com- such numbers in high mountain places as they
petition may with advantage be shaded from are in our gardens. It is the rich soft ground
the sun a day or two prior to the day of the and the quantity of succulent food that is avail-

Rock Garden, showing cemented water channel to keep off »lugs.

exhibition. \Ve staged Single Dahlias for com
petition at many exhibitions last year, and were
in every instance (save one) awarded first prize.
The following we found to be most useful:
White Queen, the best white ; Lutea grandiflora,
the finest yellow ; Hilda, cream ; Francis Fell,
rosy purple ; Acquisition, crimson with scarlet
bars ; Harlequin, rosy purple, very fine ; John
Cowan, reddish crimson, edged scarlet, a grand
variety ; Painted Lady, deep pink ; La Baron,
purple ; Darkness, smooth flower, almost black ;
Victoria, white ; Ascalon, rosv purple ; Mauve
Queen, rather rough, but large and good ;
Fusilier, white, striped pink, very fine ; Ne Plus
Ultra, large striped flower, colour, changeable ;
Terra-cotta, Beauty of Cambridge, dark crimson;
Bronze, fine shade of colour ; Gracilis perfecta,
soldier’s scarlet; Paragon, maroon-edged purple.
—Harkitess, Bcdalt.

Slugs and plants.— If Mr. J. R. Neve

able that makes them increase to such au extent
in gardens as to render it necessary, when we
grow choice alpine flowers, that we should
take great care to protect them from the pest.
Our cut shows a little cemented channel made
by Mr. Backhouse to cut off his choicest plants
from the inroads of the enemy, but even in this
case it was necessary to carefully examine the
plants often. The little canal, however, pre¬
vented their approach from without, so that if
the central part were first made clear little
difficulty would be found in keeping it so.

REPLIES.

12074. — Flowers for hollow. — Wall¬
flowers are the last things that would do in such
a position, as they require dryness and sunshine.
Dwarf perennials that would flourish are Musk,

o _ ww. ___ __ _Creeping Jenny, Saxifraga granulata flore-

wilTtw the Tollowing plan he will keep the pleno,Forget me-Note,SpineaFilipendula,hardy
slugs from eating his Delphiniums and Funkias: Primulas (of which there are many varieties),
Take a piece of zinc about 1* inch wide and Daisies, Snake’s head Fritillanes, and London
make it into a circle; put it round the plant, then j Pride. Somewhat taller are Spine* palmate,
water with soot-water and put some flour of jS. Aruncus, and S. Ulmaria. Lobelia fulgens
sulphur into a thin muslin bag, and dust the (for the sunniest part), Iris ftetidisaima (Glad-
plant well, repeating the same after rain. No win), Symphytum caucasicum, Solomon’s Seal,
slug can creep over the sinn. and the soot-water Trolliuses, and herbaceous Ranunculuses. A

Digitized: by

e zinc, and the soot-wat<

Gougle

tall and showy perennial for centres of beds is
Pyrethrum uliginosum. Lilium speciosum
would, I think, thrive if the ground were dug
out 3 feet deep, and a layer of stones and brick¬
bats put in to give a little drainage. It would
be worth while to try a few bulbs.—T. J. W. f
Crouch JJill.

12025.—Pansies.— What does “Amateur ”
mean by Scotch fancy Pansies? or why call
them Scotch ? They are all descended from the
Belgian strain introduced about a quarter of a
century ago. Many of the improved varieties
have been raised in Scotland, as many or more,
perhaps, in England. The Belgian seedlings
nave been selected more for their colour than
for size and good form. There is no reason
why the Belgian raised varieties should not
compete against the English or Scotch raised
kinds, except that in a fair competition the
Belgians would be beaten. A dozen of the best
varieties are : L. V. Heathcote, Robert Laird,
David Cavan, Hon. Mrs. Bateson, Luck's All,
Miss Black, Miss Minnie Methven, John T. D.
Llewellyn, Miss E. H. Wood, James Douglas,
Mrs. Scott Plummer, and William Postle-
thwaite.—J. D. E.

- In answer to “ Amateur " I give mj

experience, whieh I hope will be of service to
him and other lovers of tne Pansy. I may say
there are but two classes of Pansies—viz., show
and fancy; and, as it is the fancy he wants
to know about, I
will leave the
show sorts till
some future time.
Fancy Pansies are
much more flori-
feroua and vigor¬
ous in growth
than the show
kinds, and alto¬
gether more suit¬
able for general
cultivation. It is
within the last ten
or twelve years
that the fancy
kinds have under-

§ one such won-
erful improve¬
ments. Mr. Salter,
a French florist,
who settled in
London, appears
to have been the
first to offer these
then-called Bel¬
gian Pansies to
the public in 1851;
then a florist of
Lille, in France,
prod uccd some dis¬
tinct kinds, and he
was followed by an Englishman, Mr. Dean, of
Walsall; afterwards the Scotch florists took
them up and have been mainly instrumental in
bringing the fancies to their present state of
variety and beauty. To grow the Pansy well
I find that a compost of three parts rotten turf,
two of leaf-mould, and one of old cow dung,
with a little rough sand added, thoroughly
mixed, is best. 1 prefer the cow dung and
turf to lie twelve months before using ; if this
is not convenient a little of Clay’s fertiliser,
well-mixed with garden soil, will have a good
effect on the plants. The best time for trans¬
planting into beds or borders is April, but if you
have to purchase plants from a distance get them
a month earlier, and put them into a cold frame
till they get established. Then lift them with
nice balls of earth into their flowering posi¬
tions in beds, and plant 1 foot apart.
Slugs are great pests to Pansy growers. The
best way to get rid of them is, I find, to go
round with a lamp at night after a shower of
rain, when they are feeding, and put them into
a vessel of quick lime. If the summer is hot
and dry a top dressing of Cocoa-nut fibre refuse
or rotten leaves is of great service in keeping
the ground moist. If green fly appears on the
plants, 2 oz. of soft soap dissolved in 2 gallons
of rain-water, with £ oz. of dark Tobacco added,
is the most effectual remedy. Water the
plants with the mixture through a fine rosed
watering-can, but take care not to use this
when blooms are wanted. If exhibition blooms
are wanted, three or four shoots are plenty to

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Gi2

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[JW 14, 1885.

leave on. Pinoh off all flower buds that appear
up to a fortnight before the show ; then shade
with frame-lights washed over with thin lime-
wash on the under side. This keeps off sun and
heavy rain, as hot sun fades the colours and
rain dashes the flowers. Twelve of the best
sorts of fancies that I have tried out of a large
number, and which will stand keen competition,
are: Agnes Mitchell, Catherine Agnes, Formosa,
Hecla, Mrs. Forrester, May Tate, Miss Bliss,
Mrs. Jamieson, Mrs. T. M‘Comb, Sir P. K.
Murray, R. Goodwin, and Mrs. Barrie. I do not
include 18S4 sorts.—S. B., Gee Cross , near Man¬
chester.

-The following are the twelve best fancy

Pansies for exhibition : William Cuthbertson,
Mrs, Finlay, Mrs. William .Stewart, Evelyn
Bruce, Catherine Agnes, Miss Bliss, Mrs.
Jamieson, May Tate, James Gardner, Mrs.
Goodwin, Bob Montgomery, and Craigforth.
The Belgian fancy Pansies would be allowed to
compete, but would have no chance against the
above named sorts. The best soil for Pansies is
two-thirds of turfy loam, and the remainder
leaf soil. If the loam is rather stiff as much
sand Bhould be added as will serve to keep it
open. The best manure is rotten cow dung,
and I have used spent hopB as a top-dressing,
and have found them very beneficial during the
flowering season.— Robt. Hayks, Grasmere.

-The best soil for Pansies is three parts

of good rotten turf, two of leaf-mould, and one
of good rough sand, thoroughly mixed by con¬
tinuous turning ; be careful of wireworms, as
turf often contains a quantity of these posts,
and if left in the soil they will certainly kill
many of tho plants by eating the stalks under

f round. To catch them alive, place pieces of
’otatoes just under ground at the foot of the

{ )lants. The wireworms (should there be any)
eft in the soil will feed on these, and the
Pansies bo saved. Look the Potatoes over every
few days, and deal with the pests as is thought
proper. I prefer rotten mellow cow manure to
mix with the soil, and soot water is by no means
to be despised; a small quantity of guano
sprinkled round the plants in wet weather is a
capital manure for forcing exhibition blooms.
A list of the best dozen fancies is rather a diffi¬
cult task, yet I give a dozen names which are,
in my own estimation, those to be preferred :
Catherine Agnes, Wm. Cuthbertson, Miss
Bliss. Mary Tate, Bob Montgomery, A.
McMillan, Mrs. Barrie, Silverwings, Earl of
Beaconsfield, Robert Goodwin, David Wallace,
and Mrs. Jamieson.— Geo. J. Henderson,
Southwell, Notts.

- I have been very successful with

Pansies in this locality, and find light garden
loam, with a liberal supply of old hotbed manure,
suits the seedlings admirably. Afterpinching out
in shallow boxes I keep them near the glass in a
cold frame, and when sufficiently strong plant
out. I find that young plants fare badly, or
rather, refuse to grow in heavy clay soil, which
with mo suits them when sufficiently grown, or
in the frame to plant out.—A. E. A., Stamford
Hill.

[To this question we have received numerous replies, of
which we have made a selection. Mr. T. H. Davies.
Southwell, offers to send “An Amateur” an exhibition
schedule, with complete set of rules, on receipt of directed
envelope.— Ed ]

12631. — Pansy Growing. — The losses
complained of by “X. V.” are experienced
more or less by nearly all Pansy growers, and
they must be met in another way than by
manuring. The choicer kinds of Pansies are
liable to die off very suddenly, and this is why
they are not so popular as they would otherwise
be. The remedy is to be continually propa¬
gating, beginning in May. Take the young
shoots which spring from the base of the plant
and which have not shown bloom ; dibble them
in light soil in a shady place, and then you will
have nice young plants wherewith to fill up
vacancies as they occur. Any manure used
should be quite rotten, like mould, and the soil
should be free and deeply stirred ; mulch
over the roots in April. Pick off all seed
vessels as they form, and give an occasional
soaking in dry weather.—J. Cornhlll.

- Nitrate of soda should be scattered

broadcast over Pansy bed as soot is used. If
wireworm. is plentiful use more, and after
digging it in, sprinkle some over as a top-dress¬
ing also. It should be done in early winter,
certainly not at the moment of planting out the

Digitized by GOO^lC

Pansies at end of March or during April. The
purpose of it is to destroy vermin, worms, grubs,
and wireworm especially, as 44 X. Y.” will
always see wireworm at the roots of his Pansies
when dying. Whether these pests cause the
decay of the Pansy, or are Nature’s scavengers
to eat up that which is already doomed, is not
yet agreed upon. If no manure be added, but
very old stuff dug in during December and new
earth be added wherein Pansies never grew
before, the disease takes no hold. This year I
lost all my plants except Holyrood because the
heat in June was great, and they were put out
in old soil which for years past was used more
or less for Pansies. In one bed, with new soil
and stiff turf, I did not lose above four out of
three dozen. I do not think the Pansy exhausts
the soil and requires a change yearly; where
such is impossible we use chemicals to aid and
find them help greatly the old earth.—A.
Sweet, Cathcart.

- I take it that “ X. Y.'s ” plants must be in an ex¬
ceptionally cold situation, as on a olayey soil during the
winter of 1SS0—81 my plants remained uninjured by frost,
and without any protection. As mulching of long stablo
manure should afford sufficient protection under ordinary
circumstances.—A. E. A., Stamford Hill.

12659 and 12662.—Ivy Guttings.— Ivy
roots readily enough if planted in a cool posi¬
tion and trodden firmly in. Take fairly ripened
shoots and cut under a joint; takeoff the lower
loaves and put them in. “A Young Subscriber”
might do it now, putting the shoots where they
are to grow, provided the wall is not facing a
warm quarter, when they might get exhausted
before rooting. I doubt the advantage of potting
in a hotbed in the case of such hardy things as
Ivy, except a delicate-growing kind.—T. J. W.,
Crouch Hill.

12620.—Anemones for the London
suburbs.—Anemone japonica alba would no
doubt do well. Treat A. coronaria as an annual.
Sow the seed on a warm border early in May,
where the soil is fairly rich, and give enough
water in dry weather to keep the surface moist
until the plants have made a few leaves. In
July thin out the plants to 6 inches apart where
they are too thick, and put out the thinnings
in another piece of ground. In the following
spring destroy them, and make another sowing
ot seed on another piece of ground.—J. C. C.

-When living In Canonbury I planted a quantity of

Anemones, which made fair progress, and though showing
a quantity of buds, never flowered. The bed was well pire-.
pared and deeply dug.—A. E. A. Stamford Hill.

12431.—Carpet bedding. — The most
brilliant carpet-bed ding plants are not hardy/
but require renewing every year, some being
raised from seed, others from cuttings struck in.
early spring. Such plants as the Euonymus,'
golden and silver-leaved Hollies, Ivies, are
perfectly hardy ; but if I were 41 Carpet ” I
should prefer the more showy Iresine and
Lobelia, filling the beds in winter with such
things as Wallflowers and Pansies. The follow¬
ing plants are easily cultivated under glass, and
if cuttings are now obtained there will be plenty
of time for summer work : Pyrethrum, Golden
Feather (raised from seed), blue Lobelia
(Brighton preferred), red and yellow Alternan-
thera, Meaembryanthemum cordifolium varie-
gatum (pale yellow), Iresine (red), variegated
Thyme (greenish yellow), Mentha gibraltarica
(dark green), Sedum glaucum (greyish green),
finishing with Echeveria secunda glauca for
edgings. —Cora Brea, Portsmouth

-A few useful carpet bedders might

be selected from the following : Mesembrynn-
themum cordifolium var., Echeverias, Ama-
ranthus rubra, Iresine Lindeni, Deli’s Crimson
Beet, Cineraria maritima, Centaurea can li-
dis9ima, Golden Feather, Geranium Silver
Nosegay. The first may be increased by spring-
struck cuttings in cool house, as may also the
Cineraria and Centaurea with slight heat; the
Beet from seed, also the Amaranthus and
Golden Feather. The above popular carpet
bedders, however, are an expensive luxury if
largely used, and should “Carpet ” be without
a moderately-heated greenhouse. The two most
tender are Iresine and Amaranthus ruber.—
A. E. A., Stamford Hill.

- Pyrethrum, Golden Feather, Alternanthera

magnifica, A. atucctia, A, versicolor grandis, Iresine
Lindeni, Echeveriamttalliea, E. retusa glauca, E. secunda
glauca, Herniaria glabra, Meaembryanthemum cordifolium
var. Sedum glaucum, Sedum Lydium, Pyrethrum
Tchihatchewi, Lobelia apecioaa, Ceraatium tomentosum.
All the above may bj raised from seed, and may be In¬
terspersed with Agaves, Palms, Coleus, Yucca, &o.—A. E.
A., Ipswich.

12590. — Birds and Crocuses. — Has
44 J. M." carefully examined tlio bulbs of his
Crocuses ? If not, I would advise him to do so
and endeavour if possible to find out whether
the common slug has not committed the injury.
The birds, having found the pest, endeavour to
exterminate them, and this can only be done by
bringing the bulb to tho surface. This is the
only reason I can assign, except that the field
mouse is in the habit of doing a large amount
of damage. —Thomas Lowe.

12608.— Carnations and Picotees. —
There are not any Carnations that may be
designated yellow ground varieties. There are
plenty of yellow ground Picotees. One of the
best is Prince of Orange (Perkins). This was
the parent of many very fine varieties raised in
Mr. Turner’s nursery at Slough. The best of
these are: Alice, Eleanor, Flavius, Mrs. Colman,
Ne Plus Ultra, Princess Beatrice, and Princess
Marguerite. There are yellow self Carnations,
such as Lady Rosebery, Ophir, King of
Yellows, and the fine border varieties exhibited
by Messrs. Veitch, of Chelsea, last year, such
aa Aurea floribunda, Mrs. Glen, Miss Emily
Little, and Soleil Levant. The seifs will do
well in the borders, but the Picotee type soon
degenerates if continuously kept out-of-doors.
—J. D. E.

—- Eleanor, Ne Plus Ultra, Sfr John Lambert, Prince
of Orange, Mrs. Wellington, La Belgique, Flavins, Mr-.
Colman, William Greenaway, and Turners.—A. E. A.,

Ipswich.

12624.— Rhododendron shrubs.— I do
not quite agree with the Editor’s remark to this
question. Grafting Rhododendrons is a very
interesting amusement for amateurs. Years
ago I used to dig up seedlings of the common
Ponticum and pot them in the autumn. When
a hotbed was made in the spring, and the first
strong heat was over, I used to cut the stocks
over, and graft them in the usual whip-grafting
style. I would graft a few dozens every year,
and most of them would form flower buds
during the season, or, at least, would make
good strong plants to plant out in autumn. —
J.D. E.

12669. — Double Dahlias for open
garden in London. — In answer to
44 F. H. N.,” I can recommend the following
double Dahlias, either for exhibition or decora¬
tive purposes. All produce large blooms, with
little or no thinning: Clara, rose, immense
flower; Emily Edwards, blush-white; Criteiion,
lilac y Lady G. Herbert, orange, edged red ;
Miss Senshaw, pure white; Henry Walton,
fawn, heavily-tipped maroon ; James Cocker,
deep purple; W. H. Williams, vivid scarlet;
Julia Whyatt, flesh; The Countess, pale ground,
edged purplish lilac; Royal Queen, cream,
edged lake ; Rev. I. M. B. C&mm, yellow, edged
red. I have grown the above and exhibited
them very successfully. — R. Mann, Shadtcell.

12642.— Cactus Dahlias.— I observe this
question and the editorial answer, and acting on
the invitation 44 to give further answers,” I
should like to give the result of my growth of
Juarezi and Constance. No doubt the true
Cactus is the scarlet Juarezi; but the white
Constance is very different in the formation of
the flower from the ordinary doable Dahlia, and
the petals are singularly creased down the
centre. The flowers are of good shape, and of
a pure dead white, unlike any other white Dahlia
I know; they are produced freely, and are
excellent for nosegays and decoration. The
flower was awarded a first-class certificate in
the autumn of 18S2.—J. P., Lancashire.

12G05.— Asters. — If one variety only is
to be grown for show purposes the best i9 the
Victoria. The flowers are very double, globular,
measure 4 inches in diameter, and are of various
colours. It is undoubtedly the finest. If a
second variety might be added take either
Crown, or Truffaut’s Preony-flowered Perfection.
Crown is a very distinct flower, the central
ortion being always white, surrounded by a
road margin of coloured ray florets, purple,
crimson, violet, pink, &c. Perfection has large
flowers, incurved florets, of various bright
colours.—J. P., Lancashire.

■— 44 Amateur ” will find nothing in
quilled or globed Asters to surpass in beauty or
variety of colour, and perfection in form, to be
found in the finer varieties of Betteridge’s prize
globed quilled Asters, which may be had of
almost any seedsmAa!" If 44 Amateur ” wishes

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Feb. 14, 188 r,.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

C43

for an expanded or flat petalled Aster, we un‘
hesitatingly recommend the Improved Victoria*
which far surpasses all others. Daring many
years of close connection with autumn floral
exhibitions, we have noticed the prizes have
been almost invariably awarded to this variety.
—Harknfss, Bed ale.

- I can recommend' “An Amateur" to grow the

following t*o varieties of Asters for show purposes:
Victoria and Giant Emperor. The latter is the largest in
cultivation.— Robsrt Havks, Grasmtre.

- You cannot do better than grow tho Victoria

Aster. I obtained last year's seeds at a small cost, sowed
them in a box covered with glass, and when large enough
I pricked them out in the open border. I never saw a
better display for size of flower and variety of colour, and
they were, too, admired and envied by all who saw them. —
B. C. Morris, Relieving Officer, Abergavenny.

-“An Amateur’* wishes to show quilled Asters;

the best is Betteridge’s Prize if you get the seed from a
good source, and if flat petaled the best is undoubtedly
Victoria. I have grown and competed with these now for
some years, and have always been very successful.—W. G.

12006.—Ten-week Stocks.— Ten week Stocks I
obtained and treated precisely the same manner as I did
my Asters. Mv selection was the large flowering Erfurt
Stocks —B. C. Morris, Abergavenny.

- Of the four chief varieties the best for exhibition

purposes is the large-flowering pyramidal ten-week Stock,
and next to that would come the new giant. Both} the^e
are superior to the dwarf in the spike of blossom, and size
of each flower, and equal the dwarf in variety and richness
of colour—J. P., Lancashire.

-The l>e8t Stock for show purposes I have had is

the new giant perfection German ten-week, but there is a
want of var ety of colour about it. The next best is the
large flowering German ten-week. “An Amateur” should
procure some of both, and thus he would have variety to
choose from.—N. G.

12686.—Double crimson and yellow Wall¬
flowers.— Mr. Ware, of Halo Farm Nurseries, Totten¬
ham Hale, London, is sure to have them. They are easily
seut by post, and should be obtained and planted out as
soon as possible.—T. J. W., Crouch Hill.

12688.—Plants for dry eoil.— Inexpensive plants
for such soils are Snapdragons, Wallflowers. Eicbscholt-
ziaa (sow the seed in March), Pentatemons, tall and dwarf
Nasturtiums, perennial Asters, and Pinks In var iety. These
can all he had as seedlings or young plants, except, of
course, the annuals. It is too late for the cheaper bulb9,
such as Crocus, Tulips, Ac., which would do well, but
Tigridias may be obtained, and are very showy.—T. J. W.,
Crouch Hill

1*2693.— Summer treatment of Cyclamens.—
If “Gertrude” pi nts her Cyclamens out in tho border in
the same way as Solanums, not forgotting to water well,
she will find no mildew attack them. Take them up at the
ead of September, and plant them in rich soil, and they
will be all right.—O nb wuo Lovrs Flowkks.

12679.—Solanum.— “ Gertrude ” should plant her
Sola urns out of their pots in the border (a sunny one), and
water copiously on hot, diy days. I see no reru-on. if
this is done, why they should not havo plenty of berries.
They should not be cut back, and ordinary soil suits them
very well.—O n* who Loves Flowers.

12616. — Transplanting: Sweet Williams,
Antirrhinums, and Auriculas.— I would not advise
transplanting those at this early season of tho year. A
spell of hard frost would bo injurious to them. They
ought to have been planted out early in autumn so that
th y might become cstvblishod before winter. Plant them
out early in March if the weathor is fine.—J. D. E.

- In the Bouth and warm localities this may be done

now, and even in the north or midland counties. Take
care to protect the plants from cold biting winds and lato
frosts.—J. P. Ixtncaihire.

12639— Liquorice plants—Llquorico plants can no
doubt, bo obtained from some of the market gardeners at
Pontefract, whero it is yet very extensively grown.—P trus.

THE COMING WEEK’S WORK.

Glasshouses.

Epacrises. —The early flowering kinds should
immediately they have done blooming be cut
well back, and the last summer’s growth re¬
duced to one-third its length. Although re¬
quiring to be drier at the roots now than in the
growing season, they will bear keeping warmer
in the winter; and they will be benefited if,
after the shoots have been cut in, they are put
for a few weeks in a night temperature of from
40 dogs, to 50 degs. with plenty of light and
some air, when the weather is fit, in the day¬
time. The bushy growing varieties, such as E.
miniata, E. Eclipse, and E. grandiflora, are best
adapted for late flowering ; and whero there is
means for keeping them back by the use of a
cool north house, a succession in flower may be
kept up until midsummer.

Camellias. —If a selection of early and late
blooming kinds of Camellias are grown, and they
are treated so as to have their growth matured
at different times, there is no difficulty in having
them in flower from the beginning of September
up to the end of May ; but flowers that come in
as late as May do not last near so long as those
produced in the winter. There is little doubt
that the growth and flowering of Camellias is
less interfered with when the potting is done

• Digitized by GOGOlC

about the time the season’s growth is completed
and the bloom buds are just beginning to form,
as when it is carried out then the unavoidable
breakage of the roots, which are very brittle,
has less adverse influence on them than at any
other season. But where there are plants that
have been kept so long in small pots that their
strength is thereby interfered with, it may be
advisable to pot them before the growth begins.
The work Bhould be done before the shoot-buds
show signs of swelling, otherwise the season’s
growth will be affected, even if no more
disturbance of the roots takes place than is
necessary to remove the drainage. On this
account it will be advisable not to wait until
the blooming ia over, for tho loss of a few
flowers now will in most cases be a less evil
than failure of the crop of bloom another
season.

Flower Garden.

Summer bedding arrangements. — The
plants necessary for this purpose may now be
propagated. In computing the numbers and
kinds of plants needed, tender second-rate sorts
should be rejected whenever it is possible to do so
without destroying the harmony of the general
arrangement. Another way of reducing the
number of tender plants is to plant them thinly
in a given arrangement, and then clothe the
ground beneath with a suitable hardy carpeting
plant. One of the most admired beds we had
last season was one very thinly planted with
variegated Pelargonium May Queen, the nndcr-
growth being Herniaria glabra, bright green,
which set off to the best advantage the white
foliage and rosy pink blossoms of the Pelar¬
gonium-altogether an infinitely better arrange¬
ment than if there had been two hundred Pelar¬
goniums in a mass. This arrangement shows
what may be done in the direction of subduing
the never-ending monotony of masses of colour
bo prevalent in some gardens. With the hardy
section of dwarf carpeting plants propagation
is a small matter, as all are so teadily increased
by division. The half-hardy and tender section
of plants used for groundwork may also with
a moderate amount of warmth bo increased
expeditiously. Golden Feather Pyrethrum
may be grown from seed sown in pans, and
pricked off in cold frames as soon as the plants
can be handled. Mesembryanthemum cordi-
folium variegatum may be increased in tho
same way, and also by cuttings, which strike
freely in pans or boxes set on bricks over hot-
water pipes, where a temperature of about 60
degs. is maintained.

Gnaphalium lanatum may be raised from
cuttings struck in warmth and then trans¬
planted into pots, Alternantheras by means of
cuttings struck on hotbeds of leaves and litter,
on which frames are placed containing about
4 inches of light soil (peat and loam) made
firm. Cuttings inserted about 2 inches apart
quickly root, and there they may remain till
needed for planting in the beds, air, of course,
being given to induce a sturdy growth when¬
ever the weather admits of it. These plants are
so rapidly increased that it is not necessary to
pnt in cuttings till March has become well ad¬
vanced ; but the stock plants should now be
given abundant heat, that cuttings may be
forthcoming when wanted. Iresines and Coleus
strike anywhere if afforded warmth. The only
remark to make about them is that they should
be used as sparingly as possible. Lobelias
should be raised from cuttings only ; seedlings
are usually so disappointing, both being
irregular in growth and weedy as to variety.
We strike them in a brisk heat, and transplant
to frames as soon as they are well-rooted. Pots
or boxes are never used. The herbaceous
section of Lobelias are most satisfactory when
increased by division, though they come fairly
well from seed. Ageratnms, Fuchsias, Gazanias,
L&ntanas, Koniga variegata, Petunias, and
Verbenas quickly make root in a bottom-heat
of 70 degs., and will afterwards thrive vigorously
in an intermediate temperature. They should
all be allowed plenty of space. A well-deve¬
loped bushy plant is equal to half a dozen
lanky ones. Calceolarias in cold frames should
be thinned out by transplanting them to other
frames, or in the south of the kingdom they
will now do at the foot of south walla if pro¬
tected in frosty weather. Violas aud Pansies
should be treated similarly, or, if need be,
strong plants of these may now be planted
permanently.

Fruit.

It not nnfrequently happens that one particu¬
larly treacherous forepart of the night suddenly
changes to a sharp frost tho following morning,
and settles the fruit crop for the season. With
this dearly-bought experience in view, all who
have gardens in low, damp situations will do
well to be prepared to cover up on the instant,
if they do not make a point of seeing everything
safe before they retire for the night. So much
having been written upon the protection of the
blossoms of fruit trees, it may be well to guard
young beginners against the abuse of materials
placed within their reach, as excessive covering
very often forces a weak, premature growth,
which is killed, whilst a judicious application
of protective materials retards, exposes, and
protects in time of need.

Vegetables.

The present is a very good time to plant
Shallots. The land need not be rich, but should
be well worked and made as fine as a heap of
sifted ashes. We draw the drills for them
about 1^ inch deep, fill them up to the level of
the ground with burnt refuse, and in this we
plant the bulbs a foot apart. Shallots often
suffer from mildew, occasioned by being too
deeply embedded in the soil; hence the planting
should be so shallow that all the bulbs may be
above the soil when matured. A most useful
epring crop may be had by planting small Onions
just now, to pull and uRe in a green state. These
Onions planted on the edges of borders look
trim and smart. Small sowings of Celery may
now be made in boxes for very early use, out do
uot sow the main crop until the second week in
March. Of early Cauliflower a boxful should
bo sown at once. The same may be said of
Lettuces of the true Cos variety, which stands
at the head of its claRs. We are busy planting
Potatoes in frames, sowing Radishes, early
Carrots; and if really nice, clean grown
Carrots are wished for, mix plenty of Band
in the compost in which they are grown, and
you will not bo disappointed. Cover up more
Seakale and Rhubarb, and keep up a good
supply of Asparagus and French Beans. Our
young plants of Tomatoes are now* in single pots
3 inch ones). We intend planting a house with
them next week. The winter plants are now*
done; therefore, directly we can get the house
thoroughly cleaned wc shall plant the spring
batch. Winter Cucumbers are still bearing, and
doing good service. Young plants for pits arc
now potted, and will be ready quite as soon as
they are wanted. As to Salads, the large
variety of Chicory, called Witloof, is most
useful. Wc place a dozen roots in a large flower¬
pot, and blanch them in the Mushroom-house.
Keep up successional sowings of Mustard and
Cress, and when well up remove them into oool
houses.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

A vegetable little known.—I send with
this letter a vegetable cultivated hero (Pau,
France), which the peasants call Oxalis. Is it
known in England? It is a delicious winter
vegetable ; the flavour is slightly acid. The
lant grows about a foot high, and is very
ushy. Tho leaves also are acid, like Sorrel. It
has a small yellow flower. The tubers are in
some plants red and in others yellow. The first
frost kills the leaves, the tubers then begin to
form, and are fit to eat in December.—E. A.
[The plant is Oxalis crenata. It is grown in a
few gardens in this country, but not much used.
-Ed. G. /.]

REPLIES.

12622.— Globe-Bhaped Onions for ex¬
hibiting.—Williams’ Magnum Bonum is a fine
exhibition Onion, growing to a good size, and
being very handsome. In colour it is dark red,
and qnite distinct from any other. As it is
always best to have two strings to one’s bow,
“H. S.” had better sow the Brown Globe at
the same time. This is an old sort, but, when
well grown, not surpassed by any of the new
ones.—J. C. C.

- Tho Tripoli Globe is one of the largest

Onions grown, and is of good quality and
colour. This Onion is synonomous with the
Giant Rocca. Bedfordshire Champion is a fine
large Onion, and then there is the white Spanish
ana its variety, the Nuneham Park, while the

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

644

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 14, 1885

Deptford is a good old sort. The white and
brown Globea are smaller, but of good shape,
quality, and colour. A new Onion highly
spoken of is Kousham Park Hero, growing to
an immense size, of a light straw colour, heavy,
deep in the bulb, and a splendid exhibition
variety. If I may advise “ H. S.,” I should
say try both Tripoli Globe and the Hero. With
one or the other he should Bucceed in taking a
prize.—J. P., Lancashire ,

-There is no better Onion for all purposes than a

good strain of the White Spanish.—J. D. E.

-The best globe-shaped Onion for spring sowing, I

think, i* Trevon’s Yellow; the next to it I have found to be
Cranston’s Excelsior, but it is not so good in colour, being
whiter. They will both grow to an enormous size if well
grown, and if the seed be had true will be hard to beat.—
W. O.

12623.—Calory, Cabbage, and Broc¬
coli.—The best Celery is Clarke’s Solid Red.
The end of April is the time to sow early Cabbage
for winter use. They are planted out as soon as
the early Potatoes or early Peas are cleared off
the ground. The purple Broccoli should be sown
at the same time, and be planted out much in
the same way. The Cabbages are cut as Cole-
worts, and for this purpose should be planted 1
foot apart. The Broccoli ought to be planted
2 feet apart.—J. D. E.

-The beat red Celeries are the Man¬
chester Giant, I very’a Nonsuch, and Lang’s
Mammoth, either of which would suit “ Fern-
dale.” An early sowing may be made now, and
the main crop sown in March. For Cabbage
sow early in March and again in April. Broocoli
for spring U9e should be sown in April and May,
and planted out, when the plants have made
good growth, about 2 feet apart. Care should
be taken that the plants, both Cabbage and
Broccoli are not crowded in the seed beds.—J.
P., Lancashire.

12633.— Kitchen garden. — The earliest
Pea is Ringleader, which, with William I., may
be sown at once; the last-named, although
sown at the same time, will succeed the other
admirably. The best dwarf Peas are Laxton’s
Supreme and Veitch’s Perfection, and, for a
late crop, Omega. These may be sown at
intervals of a fortnight after the 1st of March
to the 10th of June in the order they are
named. The best tall Peas are Champion of
England and Ne Plus Ultra. The best sort of
Cauliflower for your purpose is Veitch’s Giant
Autumn. If sown at the end of March, and the
plants put out as soon as they are large enough,
and two or three plantings are made from the
same Beed-bed, a succession of heads will be
secured. Any respectable seedsman will
supply Brussels Sprout seed. Never mind
about its having a name. Sow on a warm
border in March and plant out on rich, well pre¬
pared ground as soon as the plants are large
enough. Let them stand 2 feet apart each way.
—J. C. C.

12600. — Peaa without sticks or
hurdles. —(1) I would recommend two ways of
supporting Peas : Light wood hurdles averaging
from 4 feet to 6 feet long, the height ranging pro¬
portionately to the variety of Peas grown; these
hurdles may be made of 1-inch boards, the
uprights of which may be 2.^ inches broad, and
the top and bottom bars equally strong.
Common laths such as plasterers use answer
admirably if given a coat of paint or gas tar
annually, and taken care of, they will last many
years. Also some growers use strong wire
(galvanised), and put good strong posts at dis¬
tances say 10 feet or less apart. Other growers
use tar twine in place of wire. (2) Dwarf
Peas are very useful where sticks are scarce.
Being very prolific where the locality and the
soil suit them, they are often grown for market
purposes. But in wet seasons they are very
liable to mildew, and the loss of the crop
follows.— Thomas Lowe.

12645 —Oeleraio.—In the Garden, of April,
1878, appeared these remarks respecting Celeriac:
“ Of vegetables used in foreign countries, large
quantities are not worth growing in England, but
the Celeriac is an exception. It may be found in
a few large establishments in this country, but
its culture ought to be extended to even the
smallest gardens, on account of its fine flavour.
It is by no means difficult to grow, and it is one
of the most useful winter vegetables, coming
into use as it does when the kitchen garden is
almost bare. On the Continent it is met with
on almost every table, and is considered a

digitized

globular, turnip-like root or knob, from 3
inches to 4 inches in diameter. It is brown on
the outside, but the flesh is white and tender,
and its flavour most agreeable—nutty, with a
little pungency. The leaves are about a foot
long, spreading, and dark green, with hollow
stalks. Sown in spring, the young plants are

S laced out about a foot apart in August and
eptember, and in the winter months will yield
their fine succulent roots. It requires protec¬
tion against frost. It is best cut into pieces,
well washed, boiled with salt and a small spoon¬
ful of flour and a blade of mace; stir from time
to time, and when done strain and serve with
light sauce. Those readers who have not yet
tried this vegetable have in store that rare thing
—a new pleasure.—A. E. A., Ipswich.

Heating email Greenhouse —Will “ J.B.” (page
017) kindly allow me to call and Bee his heating apparatus
of which he speaks so highly?—W. ft. Suowlbk, 17, Staple'
ton Hall Road, Stroud Green, Finsbury Park.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Building grkbkiiousks {D. C. B.).— We fear your letter

would be considered an advertisement.- Pianofortb

manufacturers ( Pharaoh Barraclough).—W e cannot open
our columns to queries so distinct from every subject

treated of in Gardbmno.-Hbating small greenhouse

{A. King).— Thanks ; we will got your little sketch en¬
graved.- Town Gardening (A. E. A., Stamford Hill) —

Send it on, that we may examine it.- Pansies ( J. B. t

Galashiels, T. H. Davies, and others).— Thanks for replies.
The results of another “election" will probably soon be

published in Gardkning. - Tomato growing (/. T.,

Preston).—Hr. W. Barnes, Redbridge Station, L S.W.

Railway.- Tiffany (J. P. Lord).— It may bo obtained

from B. Edgington, 2, Duke Street, London Bridge.-

Oil-btovb (A Beginner). —See recent numbers of Gar¬
dening ; the subject may be again referred to in an

early number.- Fbrn casb (A. E. A., Ipswich).—We

should be happy to examine your article, and, if it is suit¬
able, to insert it.- Chrysanthemums {Darkness).—

Thanks ; forward the notes at your convenience.- New

Parsnip (East Lothian).— You must give reference to the

name of the kind, or to page or date of the paper.-

House slops ( Peckham). —Yes; house slops are useful os

liquid manure ; properly diluted, of course.- Garden

produce (T. Shrubb).— Advertise or consult advertisement

columns.- Hyacinths {IV. if.).—You can either cut off

the side shoots or leave them on the plant; if you out off

the side shoots the main spikes will be liner.- A. M.

and others .—Our correspondents will greatly oblige us, and
at the same time will be more likely to have their com¬
munications attended to, if they tako the trouble to
observe the rules printed at the head of the Query column.

- Burning Bush {F. A.).—Try the nearest nurseryman.

- Roses J. Witts).— You do not say what election you

refer to.- Exchanob {A Vicar’s Wife).— There are, in

our case, serious objections to the adoption of such a plan

as you kindly advise.- Willbsden paper (Af. H.). —

Depot, 34, Cannon Street, E.C.

Names of plants.— W. J. Muller. — Chimonanthus

fragrans.- A. F. C.— 1, Daphne indica ; 2, Erlostemon

linearifolium ; 3, Bouvardia Alfred Neuner.- Work.—

Tradescantia repens ; Sedum tortuosum variegatum.-

E. A.— Oxalis crenata. Grown In England in some

gardens, but not much used.- E. P.—l, Polypodium

Billardieri; 2, Doodia dives ; 3, Aspidium c&ryotideum ;

4, Adiantum luspidulum.- W. II.—1 , Begonia Rex ; 2,

Send when in flower.- A. M. S.— Saxifraga cordifolia.

- IV.'J. Muller .—Your specimens did not reach us.

Catalogues received. — Vegetable atid Flower

Seeds, Ac. Strike and Hawkins, 8tockton-on-Tees.-

Choice Neto Seeds for the Kitchen and Flower Garden. E. J.

Jarman, Chard, Somersetshire.- Vegetable and Flower

Seeds. Pratt Bros., Fakenham, Norfolk.- Vegetable and

Flower Seeds. Samuel Yates, Old Milgate, Manchester.

- Vegetable, and Flower Seeds. Ralph Crosslink, Penarth

Nurseries, South Wales.- Alpine Plants, Hardy

Perennials, and Florists’ Flowers. James Backhouse and

8on, York.- Vegetable and Flower Seeds, Gladioli, £c.

Henry Middlehurst, Manchester Street, Liverpool.

Books received.— Papers relating to International
Forestry and Horticultural Exhibition, tendon, 1885.

f OVELY LILIES AND IRISES. — Wm.

—* Gordon has still the finest collection of these. Buy of
the importer the three lovely Lil’es, Lilium album Kraetzeri,
Lilium Melpomene, Lilium Browni, for 5s. 6cL, six for 9s., post
free. Over thirty varieties of Japanese Iris, all hybrids in a'l
hues, and beautifully marked, perfectly hardy, the admiration
last season of all who Baw them, six varieties for 9s., twelve
for 15s., the three varieties for 30s.; Lilium Humboldti, each,
Is., Is. 6d., 2s. 6d.; Lilium auratum—these surprise my
customers-sped allyim portedbulbs. 6d.. 9d., and 1b. 6d. each;
special terms to the trade.—WM. GORDON, Nurseries,
Twicken ham, Middlesex. See previous advertisements.

pHEAP OFFER.—Land required for building.

VJ —2,000 Limes, Poplars, Sycamores, Chesnuts, and Elms,
straight stems and good heads, 8 to 10 feet. Is. eooh; 10 to
12 feet. Is. 6d each

1 n non APPLES, PLUMS, PEARS, and

CHERRIES, splendid trees, all beat sorts.
Standards, 1 b. each; Dwarf trained, 2s. Cd. each ; Bush trees,
Is. each.

1 9 nnf) and RED CURRANTS,

bushy trees, Is. per doz.; extra strong fruit¬
ing Ir^es. 2s. per doz. Cash with order.

EVES k DALTON. Btonyland Nurseries. Gravesend.

T EEK, MUSSELBURGH, true.—The largest

-4J and hardiest in cultivation, Is per oz ; 8n per lb., free.
—M’DOUGAL Si SON, Gardeners, Cample Laoe, Mussel¬
burgh.

TTELWAY « SONT.—20 acres of Gladioli. The
largest collection In Europe. Catalogues free, with
cultural directions —Langport, Somerset.

The Champion Peas of the World

CARTERS' STRATAGEM. 2/6
CARTERS' TELEPHONE. 21 -
CARTERS' PRIDE OF i
THE MARKET. ' '

PRICE.

Per Pint. Per Piet.

6d.
6d.

6d.

HAVE

WON
150
FIRST
PRIZES.

CAUTION.—All Pints and
Packets sent out by us
are sealed thus :

P^^T^^Q , Seedsmen by
Urtn I LRU Royal Warrant
To H.R.H. The Prince of Wales,
237 & 238, HIGH HOLBORN, LONDON.

BIDDLES & CO.,

The Penny Packet Seed Company

LOUGHBOROUGH, LEICESTERSHIRE

Supply 3,000 Varieties of

Flower Seeds

In packets at One Penny Eaoh.

Including th« choicest sorts, viz ;—Asters, Balsams. Begonias,
Calceolarias, Cyclamen, Pansle3, Petunias, Phlox Drum
mondii. Primulas, Salvias, Slocks, VerbensB, Ac.. Ac. All
seeds being of tbe best quality in small quantities, the
packets should be regarded as ECONOMICAL and not
CHEAP. We reoomtnend our various collections of 12
varieties for One Shilling.

All Kinds of

Vegetable Seeds

OF BEST QUALITY

By weight, and also in Penny Packets.

Send for CATALOGUE Gratis.

(500 Illustrations).

Save expense, and buy a large selection in small packets.

50,000 GLADIOLUS BRENCHLEYEN&IS to

be sold off at 6s. per 100. Good bulbs.

DOBSON’S PATENT UNRIVALLED

PROPAGATOR

For Raising Seeds and Striking Cuttings.

The Apparatus stands unrivalled, because it produces a
high and level temperature without there being an oil lamp,
gus burner, tire, nor manure connected with it; hence no
amell, no risk of accident, nor expense is incurred after
purchasing the article. PRICE £1 8s. 6d.

Can be bought, and full particulars obtained through any
ironmonger.

PATENTEE and MANUFACTURER:

H. T. DOBSON,

Surrey Wire Worki, 62, 66, and 60, Borough Road,
_ Southwark. _

B. S. WILIAMS'

IMPROVED

Mushroom Spawn

The Cheapest and the Best.
Never fails.

Per bushel of 14 cakes. 5a.

Per cake, 6d.

Victoria & Paradhe Nurseries,
U pper Hoi loway, London. N.

HARNATIONS, mixed varieties, beat sorts.

^ transplanted layers, well rooted, from openpround. 6 for
2s. 6d. ; 12 for 4s. 6d., free.-OASBON & 81
N ursery, Peterbor o'.

>und, C for
MillS eld

DOUBLE SWEET WILLIAMS.—Myriads of

Lf double Bwoetly-scented flowers, 12 for Is. 6d.; 25 for 2a. Sd .
free—OA8BON & 8QN, MlliSeld Nursery. Peterboro’.

nOUBLE WALLFLOWERS, finest imported',

Lf splendid strain, sweetly scented. 12 for Is. 9d ; 25 for
3a.. free.—OA8B OS * SO N, MillfleldNursery, Peterboro’.
\A I ALLFLOVV£KS.—Dwarf,golden, blood-red,

» * Harbinger, and new Purple, 26 for Is. 9d.. 50 for 3a„
free.—CARBON & SON, Millfleld Nursery. Peterboro’

OYCLAMEN, Covent Garden Strain, finest
mixed varieties, 12 for la. 6d., 26 2s. 9d„ free.-OASBON
k 8QN. Millfleld Nursery. Peterboro*.

tJTCOriANA A F FIN IS, sweet-scented, Bou-

■L" vardia-Like white flower, strong plants for early bloom:
2 for Is 6d.; 4 for 2s. 6d., free.—CA8BON & SON, Millfleld
Nursery, Peterboro ’_

Sale, Manchester.

A URlCULAS (hardy) from our noted collec-
tion, planted now will be oovered with bloom, 2s. 6dL
and 3a. per doz free.—J. FA.IROLOUQH. Sale. __

OOC ROOTS in 26 vars. of rare and hardy
CDjyj plants, sent can-iago free fp any adorers for 21a
New is the time to plant.—J. FAIRCLOUGH, Sale,

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED,

Voi,. VT.

FEBRUARY 21, 1885.

No. 311.

forked in, and a soaking of liquid manure, if it
can be obtained. In the course of a few hours
after watering, when the moisture has had time
to penetrate the whole mass, the ground should
be raked level, and the drills drawn 9 inches
apart, and 1 inch deep. In dry hot weather I
like to prepare and water the seed bed in the
evening, leave it all night to tone down,
and prepare the bed, and sow the seeds
early in the morning. The seeds should
not be sown too thickly, as the number of plants
required in any garden will not take much space
if treated rationally. It is certain that in raising
plantsfor transplanting, especially of this family,
very much seed is wasted. This, perhaps, would
not matter so much if the
mischief ended there, but
very thick seeding leads to
debility in the progeny, and
although some people may
think in the matter of a
Cabbage this is not of much
consequence, in the case of
some sections of the family,
Brussels Sprouts especially,
the plantB in all stages of
their growth should have
justice done them. Protect
the seed beds with nets as
soon as they are sown, to
keep off birds, or the Bceds
may be dressed with red
lead, and made distasteful
to the seed eating birds.

Transplanting.

This may take place any
time after the plants are
large enough—the end of
September or early in Octo¬
ber is a good time to plant
the main crop. In many
gardens the Cabbages follow
the Onions. The land is
generally well manured and
deeply worked for Onions,
and, as they are not an ex¬
hausting crop, a top dress¬
ing of soot, and, perhaps, a
little phosphate or some
other artificial manure, hoed
in deeply, will suffice ; at
least this is my own prac¬
tice. 1 have not planted Cab¬
bages in autumn on newly
dug land for the last six¬
teen years, and we very
seldom lose a plant, no
matter how severe the win¬
ter may be. The plants
heart more speedily on
rather firm land if it is in
good condition, and a week
in point of earliness is some¬
times thought much of. The
large sorts of Cabbage should
be planted in rows 2 feet
apart, and 18 inches from
plant to plant in the row.
The small kinds, such as
Atkins’ Matchless and Cooca
Nut, may have the rows G
inches nearer, and on the early border, where
the land is valuable, I generally plant a
piece of the Bmall early kinds 1 foot apart
each way. In a general way I think a good
deal of land is wasted over the Cabbages.
Very few people really care for the large
Cabbages, and the small-hearted kinds may be
twice as numerous on the ground. During the
autumn and the time of growth generally the
surface should be stirred occasionally for the
purpose of keeping down weeds and keeping the
surface looser and early in the season some
earth should be drawn up to the plants on each

Placing a string df* ! matting rather loosely
round the plant, but yet drawing the leaves in

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

of the many independent boilers advertised,
with one length of flow and return, would be all
sufficient. Should “ Amateur ’’require further
information I shall be happy to oblige him.—
A. E. A., Ipswich.

THE VILLA GARDEN.

( Continued from page 017 .)

The Cabbage.

Thocoh Cabbages may be said to be always in
season, the most important crop is the early
one, and the earlier Cabbages can be obtained
in spring the more they are appreciated.

12627. — Building a

Greenhouse.— Height of
back wall, 8 feet G inches ;
front, a dwarf wall, 2 feet
G inches, and glazed frout,

2 feet, which will require
sash bars for roof 8 feet
long. Doors and ventilating
sash should be of sound
red deal, 1| inch ; sash
bars, 24 inches by 1} inch ;
principals, 3 inches by 3

inches; glass for roof, 21 or.., 4ths ; door
and aides, IGoz., 4tha. Staging of laths
1£ inch wide and 1 inch thick, with 1 inoh
space between laths, nailed to cross-pieces

3 inches by 2^ inches fixed 3 feet apart, one end
let into wall, the other end supported by
wooden uprights 3 inches by 3 inches, which
must rest on a stone base raised slightly from
the floor. The laths mast be fixed widest side
upmost, cross pieces narrowest; whole of wood¬
work to have four coats of oil paint. Floor can
either be bricked or concrete—the latter I
prefer. One bushel of cement and 3 bushels of
Baud will cover G yards super, 4 inch thick,
which is snffioient. When building do not make
length leas than 12 feet, for heatum whioh one

Digitized bTOOOyTc

A young Weepiug Larch.

Sowing the Early Crop

Is, therefore, an important matter, and usually
takes place from the 20th of July to the 5th of
August, according to the latitude and climate
of the place, and the character of the season.
In the extreme south the first week in August
will be early enough, and in the north a few
days before the 20th of July may not be too
early. Some allowance should be made for
particular varieties. Large kinds, such as the
Enfield Market, which are not so liable to bolt
prematurely, may be sown ten days l>efore the
Early York section. The seed bed may be
prepared on the border from which the early
Potatoes were lifted, without any preparation,
beyond a dressing of soot and lime lightly

TRBE8 AND SHRUBS.

WEEPING LARCH.

We trust our friends who plant trees will
not forget this very beautiful one, so hardy,
and so fine in form. As a lawn tree we know
none moro beautiful ; when it gets old it is
extremely picturesque, and it is good in form
in all stages. Personally, we think no tree
more beautiful than the common Larch, whether
in its budding green, in its Boft autumn gold,
or even when oare ; bat, somehow, people do not
think highly of it as a garden tree, and one does
not often enough enjoy the sight of a well-grown
and Bpreading tree. In woods
they are crowded up, and
one has no chance of Beeing
their fine form ; but the
Weeping Larch is, of course,
a garden tree, properly speak¬
ing, and probably no one
would think of planting it
for profit. It may be ob¬
tained from most nurseries
of hardy trees and shrubs.

REPLIES.

12568, — Lavender
troahes. — No doubt the
“very old bushes" referred
to are worn out. The only
chance to get them into
blossom for a year or so will
be to cut them, not down,
but well back, and give
them a good dressing of
manure, and, when they
start into growth, a little
manure water. Lavender is
propagated bv rooted slips
obtained by division of the
oil roots. They should be
planted out in March or
April, or, as some prefer,
in November. The bushes
are at their best when three
to four years old, and after
seven years are not worth
much.—J. P., Lancashire.

12406. — Ungainly Yews. -
Cut them down at 0000 to what¬
ever height you wish, and they
will ehoot from tbo bottom.
When I came to this house there
was a hedge certainly 18 fett
high ; two yean ago I cut it down
to 2 feet, and It is now a nice,
compact, bushy hedge — E G. F.

640

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 21, 1885.

towards the centre, helps them on a little when
they are turning in.

Taking a Second Crof*.

In private gardens this is generally done,
except in the case of the few plants on the early
border, which are planted too thickly to stand
through the summer, fiat the main crop, as
fast as the hearts are cut, or at least when the
bads in the axils of the leaves are showing signs
of growth, should have the leaves remaining on
the stems cut off close up to thift bursting buds,
and in a very short time these latter will
develop into very nice little Cabbages, some
two, three, or four, as the case may be, on each
stem. A mulching of anything that has any
manorial value will help the second crop
immensely, and prevent the land from being
unduly exhausted. And as Cabbages treated
on this principle occupy the land some fifteen
or sixteen months at least, it will be allowed
that any help which can be conveniently given
will be of great benefit.

Sowing in Spring.

Cabbages are very accommodating, and may
be sown in heat any time during winter or the
early spring, if such a course snould be neces¬
sary. I remember that in the very severe
winter of 1861 the Ctbbage plants in many
parts of the country suffered much. The
autumn crops in many places perished, and the
plants raised in heat then were useful. As a
rule, of course it is not necessary to sow
Cabbages in heat at all; and I only mention it
to say that all the firassica family are amenable
to this, if each a course, under any exceptional
circumstances, should be necessary. Many
people, when they plant out the autumn or main
crop, either leave the small plants to Btand on
the seed bed till spring, or transplant them
thickly in a nursery bed, where they will
remain through the winter. There should
always be a reserve of plants somewhere. In
March whatever plants are left after all vacan¬
cies are made good should be planted out to give
a supply of young Cabbages when the main crop
has been cut, and before the second crop on
the stems are fit for use. Seeds of Enfield
Market or Cocoa Nut, sown in March or April,
will be fit to cut in autumn.

Savino Seeds.

Many people save their own Cabbage seeds,
as they pride themselves on having a better
variety than their neighbours, and wish to per¬
petuate it. The plants selected for seed-bear¬
ing should be true to the type. And when the
Cabbages are nut the stems may be lifted care¬
fully and planted in a group by themselves,
where some fine netting may be spread over
the blossoms to keep away insects bearing
foreign pollen when the plants are in blossom.
This care is especially necessary if any other
member of the Brassica family should be
growing near and in blossom.

Varieties.

These are now very numerous, but four or
five are sufficient to keep up a good succession,
and no one need grow more. Atkins' Matchles-i,
Cocoa Nut, Heart well, Enfield Market, and
Wheeler’s Imperial are good varieties, lied
Dutch should be grown for pickling, and the
London or Rosette Coleworts, which are used in
a young state in winter. The seeds of the Cole-
worts should be Bown in June and planted out on
vacant land anywhere, without any special
preparation beyond a deep hoeing and a dressing
of soot. Draw drills one foot apart in August,
or when the plants are ready to go out, and
plant 9 inches ap*rt in the rows. These are often
thought more of in winter than the second crop
of Cabbages, being young and tender. They are
looked upon as a catch crop, being cleared off
in time to give the land the usual winter trench¬
ing, in preparation for the roots in spring. They
may succeed early Peas, or Beans, or autumn
sown Onions, or be planted wherever a vacancy
exists, no matter how small. Their capacity to
fill usefully any small patch adds to their value.

Red Cabbages.

It is not advisable to sow these too early.
Here, in ti e Midlands, wo find it early enough
to sow at the beginning of August, and I have
had very good Cabbages from plants raised early
in March. Many housekeepers defer pickling
Cabbages till the autumn frosts occur, under the
impression that the low temperature has a
ripening effect npahlhe Cabbagesi and that it

Digitized by\j0O5lC

gives colour to and improves the keeping of the
pickle. The cultural details are the same as for
Other Cabbages, so nothing filrthef need be said
about them.

Chou de Burohlky, or Cabbage Broccoli.

This hybrid, raised by Mr. Gilbert, of
Burghley Gardens, has now pretty well satisfied
the critics, and may be recommended as a first-
rate winter green, as nearly hardy as the Brussels
Sprouts, and noticeable for its extreme delicacy
of flavour. The seeds may be sown two or three
times during the spring from March till June,
and planted out at intervals as space becomes
vacant, allowing the same space and giving the
same treatment as is usually given to Cabbages.
It forms medium sized hearts, like a sugar-loaf
Cabbage, which may be cut and used in that
condition, or be left till later in the season,
when it has developed in the interior of the
heart a small white Broccoli.

The Savoy.

Everybody is familiar with the handsome
crumple leaved Cabbages which are so hardy
and so useful in autumn and winter. The seeds
for the autumn supply should be sown about
the end of March, and the young plants should
be transplanted as soon as large enough. A
further sowing should be made about the end of
April. By planting the earliest and strongest
plants out first, and leaving the smaller ones to
stand longer, a successional character may be
obtained from one sowing, and if the small
plants which are left to the last are dibbled in
any vacant plot, 9 inches apart, very nice little
hearts will be secured, so that there never need
be any waste. I have seen many nice dishes of
delicate little hearts cut from what appeared the
refuse of the seed bed. Where bulk of crop is re¬
quired the Drumhead is the kind chosen, but these
large-hearted Cabbages have fallen into dis¬
repute sinee the race of small-hearted, delicate-
flavoured varieties, such as Tom Thumb and
King Coffee, were introduced. It is found that
the small varieties may be planted so much
closer together that the loss even in bulk of crop
is not, after all, so very great. The Drumhead
will require as much space as the Enfield
Market Cabbage—2 feet between the rows—and
the plants should stand 18 inches apart in the
rows. The small kinds, such as Tom Thumb,
will not require more than half that space.

E. Hobday.

SHOWY FLORISTS’ CATALOGUES.
Whatever may have been the experiences of
“R. W. B.,” of H. Dyer, and a “Working
Gardener,” I am still of opinion that most of
the illustrations in these catalogues are much
exaggerated. Even “ R. W. B.” commences his
reply with these remarks :—“ I fear that the
strictures of ‘ An Enthusiast in Gardening ’ will
find an echo in many hearts soured with disap¬
pointment of a similar kind.” He then goes on
in a pleasant, rambling way, which is partly
true and partly amusing, but not much to the
purpose. Of course I know, for I have been
an enthusiast for over 40 years, that Rose
illustrations “draw,” that “ Britons like to be
gulled,” and that the thirty millions are “ mostly
fools,” and that thousands are spent in
illustrating and advertising Peas and Pumpkins,
&c t &o. ; but that is no reason why advertisers
should mislead the public. They appear to me
to be practising a moral fraud upon the public,
and I believe they only injure themselves. I
should be very sorry to say a word against any
of them. I have at least 20 of these catalogues
sent me annually, and I deal with them all in
turn. I visit a great many of the shows in
various parts of the country, as well as the
great nurseries in and around London and the
country, and also numbers of noblemen’s and
gentlemen’s gardens, but I never see anything
to come up to what I see depicted in these
catalogues. My experience and judgment may
not be worth much, but I have a first-rate man,
who has houses of all kinds, with plenty of
time and every appliance at hand, and yet
he assures me that neither he nor any other
man can come up to these illnstrations,
except by ohanoe or accident. “A Working
Gardener’s” remarks are beyond the mark
entirely. Probably my experience isos good as
his, and I certainly have no wish to run down
florists and seedsmen, many of whom I consider
my professional friends. Neither do I wish to

say a word against gardeners. I merely submit
that as a general rule these illustrations are
mudh exaggerated—that they mislead and dis¬
appoint. In reply to H. Dyer, I say I do not
pretend to understand gardening or the growth
of flowers. I am merely an amateur ; but I
keep a first-rate scientific gardener, with
assistance, whom I expect to produce me what
I Bee illustrated in these catalogues, but he
assures me it is not to be done. 1 do not care
for expense in the purchase of seeds, or in the
management or cost of my garden ; but, I must
say, I believe these illustrations are not a faith¬
ful representation of what one may expect from
the seeds which we purchase, no matter from
what firm.— An Enthusiast in Gardening.

Though a mere amateur in the delightful occu¬
pation of floriculture, I am bound to join issue
with “ Enthusiast ” on this subject, feeling per-
Buaded he is in error, and that there must be a
cause, though he may not yet know it, why he
or his gardener has not been able to produce
flowers equal to the illustrations to be found in
the seed catalogues. I assure “Enthusiast”
that I have produced Cinerarias, Primulas,
Petunias, &c., quite equal, if not superior, to
the illustrations in the catalogue of the firm from
whom I had the seed. But then I followed
strictly the directions given in Gardening.
For instance, besides attending to nature of
soil required, it has been a chief rule to
attend to potting. Pot on, pot on, has been
the maxim with me till I reached the maximum
size, and 1 never expect to have fine plants
and fine flowers of the Cineraria class in small
pots. I have found this matter to be the chief
in growing most of the flowers I attend to.
Particularly did I find this out last season in
the culture of Chrysanthemums. I did not like
to purchase more pots, and so used all sizes,
from 6 to 10 inches, but in no case could I
produce large flowers in the smaller pots ;
almost invariably the flowers were in proportion
to the pots. Last year I went to an auction—
gentleman deceased—large garden—professed
gardener—every convenience in garden—num¬
ber of glasshouses. There were a number of
Cinerarias catalogued—just showing for flower;
and, would you believe it, I would not pick
them up in the street—measly little things I
I have, however, to complain of some of the
houses who sell “garden requisites.” Here
I have my difficulty. The loam for the most
part is clay, the leaf-mould not a Quarter de¬
cayed. I might tell “Enthusiast” that last
year I bought two packets of Begonia seed,
single and double, and raised about seven
dozen—as many as I could accommodate—and
had as fine a show as any professed florist
could expect. I have a cool greenhouse, and,
using a heat radiator only, had a propa¬
gating box made according to instructions in
Gardening, but found the fumes from lamp to
be rather detrimental to the plants in house. A
6 feet by 6 inches radiator keeps out 17 degs. of
frost in a 12 feet by 9 feet house. It might
keep out more frost, as far as I know ; but 17
degs. has been the lowest for the last two
seasons in this locality.— Retired Tradesman,
Herts. _

J. F.” writes;—" I do not think there h so much
exaggeration as bad drawing—stiff and unnatural com¬
position of the flowers or things shown. High culture
does produce remarkable things, more so than would be
believed without actual measurement. The artists, as a
rule, cannot draw well, and in the case of flowers, instead
of show ing the true perspective and variation in the
blossoms, make all of the size of the largest staring in
one way.

[This correspondence must now cease.— Ed.]

12696.— Lawn tennis grround.— “Pro- ,
crastinator’s ” ground evidently wants a heavy j
top dressing to improve the surface as well as ,
strengthen the Grass. Should it be convenient ,
to procure some road sweepings from parts ^
where there is a cab-stand, or where there
is a deal of traffic near a station, give the j
lawn a good dressing over with them, and t
sow a few pounds of lawn Grass seeds ; rake i

them in, if possible, then roll over, and roll again |

as soon as the Grass comes up. The second week “
in March would be quite soon enough to sow the j
seeds. Some guano water or other liquid
manure would help the grass in the spring.

The ground shonld not be used until it has been '
mowed at least twice over. —P, D.„ Nerth Surrey . j

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Feb. 21, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

C17

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

SEED SOWING.

The busy season for the gardens has now arrived,
and every effort must be used to keep the work
in hand, bat it is by no means advisable to get in
advance of what is really necessary in one im¬
portant item of good gardening, viz., in the matter
of seed sowing. 1 am fully convinced that far more
failures in vegetable culture arise from too great
hurry in getting the seeds committed to the
soil than from deferring that operation to what
may at first sight appear rather late in the
season. Moreover, there is no need for one to
remain idle, aB the work of thoroughly pre¬
paring the soil may be pushed on at every
favourable opportunity, and when this is done
the actual operations of sowing and planting are
not very formidable, and a great many seeds
may be sown in the course of a few' hours. It is
hardly possible to fix a correct date for sowing
particular crops, as locality and the nature of
the soil vary considerably, and in the south of
England, where frost is merciful, and a light,
warm soil is rather the rule than the exception,
seeds may safely be sown at least a fortnight,
and with some kinds a month, sooner than
would be expedient in the Midlands, especially
in low-lying situations. But even here there are
frequently many failures from undue haste in
seed sowing, for directly the days begin to
lengthen there is quite a rush among amateur
gardeners to get their vegetablegardens cropped;
it by no means follows, however, that the earliest
sown crops are the first to come to maturity, for
where sown before the soil gets warm enough for
the seeds to vegetate quickly, the tenderseedlings
get stunted in growth, and do not recover for a
long time, so that later sown crops, that start
away without check, are the first to becomfe fit
for use. I daily get enquiries whether it is not I
getting late for planting early kidney Potatoes,
but I find from long experience that nothing
Is gained by planting before March, for if the
seta are kept spread out thinly so as to preserve
the sprouts from getting broken off, they make
more progress out of the soil than in. We lay
them in boxes with a little leaf-soil for the roots
to take hold of, and when planted they are
established at once. Broad Beans we like to sow
as early as possible, and Peas of the early kinds,
also a few Parsnips and Radishes, but March is
the month for getting the main crops in. Several
are better deferred until April. Turnips, if sown
too soon, so as to get stunted in growth, are sure
to run prematurely to seed, instead of forming
bnlbs, and Beetroot, Salsafy, Scorzonera, Scarlet
Runner, and French Beans, should never be
sown before April (although we hear many talk
ing about sowing them at the first opportunity),
for if they vegetate before May is half gone it is
very likely that they will be cut down by spring
frost even in this locality. Or if they survive
they get so crippled and yellow looking that
they require a long spell of genial weather to
recover, and in the meantime, later sown crops
rush away and come not only into bearing first,
but, what is of far more importance, they produce
the maximum of crop; therefore, great care
should be exercised in not sowing any kind of
tender crop too soon, or failure will follow.

Qo<rport t 17 ants. J, Groom,

AMERICAN WONDER PEA.

As the annual seed-ordering time is again
upon us, perhaps it may not be out of place
to recommend this splendid dwarf wrinkled
early Pea to those of your readers who have
not yet made its acquaintance. It would be
impossible to exaggerate its good qualities,
even were they all to be described in superla¬
tives. It is now six years since I first made
acquaintance with it, and for very good reasons
our friendship has increased year by year down
to the present. I had the seed along with others
direct from New York, and grew it for the first
time in the county of Perth. I received with it
a rather high flown, if not incredible, pedigree.
“ It was sown in a garden in the neighbourhood
of New York on the first of June, and
was gathered, cooked, and dished upon the
table on the twenty-first of the same month,”
so that during twenty-one days it passed
through germination, babyhood, and youth,
and arrived at maturity-1 ^ In this particular
only haB it been deceptive oibarprpppscts

it has behaved admirably. It is a Pea which
should be extensively grown by those who have |
difficulty in procuring stakes, for, indeed, it re¬
quires no support whatever. It can be grown to
perfection in rows 18 inches apart, but is better
for the purpose of higher flavour in rows 2 feet
apart. I have never seen it attacked with mil¬
dew, and believe that its robust and vigorous
constitution enables it to resist the approaches
of that fungus. This Pea, although a thorough
dwarf, is as prolific, superficially, as many of our
tall and medium sized varieties. I hope 1 shall
go on and improve on acquaintance, for it is as
agreeable to the eye in the garden as it is to the
palate upon the table.

Broughty Ferry, N.B. T. C. M.

MUSHROOM CULTURE IN CELLARS.
Mushrooms may be, and often are, grown to
perfection in many less ambitious structures
than the Mushroom house properly so-called.
Any kind of outhouse, in fact, will answer for
the growth of autumn and early winter Mush¬
rooms. In a cellar at Highgate some years ago
I saw a bed 12 feet long and S feet wide, from
which as many as 180 lbs. were gathered
between October and February. Other beds
were equally productive, though all were with¬
out artificial warmth. They occupied a dry,
dark cellar under the dwelling-house, and re¬
mained unharmed with the thermometer as

Mushrooms iu cave.

low as -10 degs. The beds were formed

of short manure from the stables, 16 inches or
so in depth. Previous to use the manure was
thrown into a heap to heat and get rid of its
superfluous moisture; it was then spread out
for a day or two to dry and cool. Afterwards
it was thrown together again for a few days
more and then made up into a bed. Care should
be taken to make the bed very firm by means of
treading or beating. As soon as the heat had
risen to the proper point it was spawned, half
a bushel being used for a bed 10 feet square.
The spawn was broken into pieces about the
size of small Apples, placed in the manure, and
firmly covered 2 inches deep with good garden
soil, and in six weeks Mushrooms of first-rate
quality were produced in a temperature of 50
degs. Beds thus treated never fail to bear
satisfactory, and many of the specimens in this
instance weighed 4 oz. each. The flavour was
excellent, and this plan of growing Mushrooms
in cellars is worthy of imitation. M.

Tomato growing*. — Having for several
years taken much interest in growing Tomatoes,
and having tried many different ways and
sorts, the experience I have gained may be
a great help to “ J. T., Preston ” (p. 617), and
others who wish to make them pay. I have
been to the expense of buying pots and boxes,
and the best loam to grow them, and what with
the expenses of one thing and the other, and
the enormous amount of labour in potting and
watering, &c., I could not make it pay with the
light crops I used to get for my trouble. So I
had almost given it up as hopeleBB ; but on
visiting a friend who had a few plants placed

on an inside border, which was filled with
common soil from the garden, the enormous
crop of Tomatoes quite astonished me. I deter¬
mined to continue, and now have excellent
crops. The best house is a span such as “ J. T.”
is going to devote to them. I sink a path down
the centre, about 2 feet, and leave the soil,
building a 4^-inch brick wall to keep it in its
place, each side of path (about 2 feet 6 inches),
filling up the 6 inches with road trimmings and
manure, thus having a border each side well
dug in the manure, &c. Plant out nice strong
plants, and train up the glass on wires 9 inches
or 1 foot from the glass on a single stem, which
is the leader, pinching out all branching shoots,
but not the leaves on the main stem, as a bunch
of fruit will come in the axle of nearly every
leaf. When the fruit is swelling give plenty of
manure water. I have a tank inside my house
for rain water from the roof, and a good watering
once a week is enough in hot weather ; in dull
weather the plant will go much longer without
it. 1 never top mine till they reach the top of
the house, as they crop from bottom to top. I
have tried almost all sorts and selected a few of
the most reliable sorts—seedlings. If “J. T.”
wishes for more instructions 1 would be pleased
to hear from him.—C. C., Sunninghill , Berks.

REPLIES.

12463.— Jensen’s Potato culture,— The
following remarks respecting the Jensenian
system of growing Potatoes may probably meet
your correspondent’s wishes. The system as
recommended by M. Jensen may be termed
simply “protective earthing,” and its object is
to prevent the spread of disease. It is based
upon the theory that the spores of Phytoph-
thora infestans, the fungus which is accredited
as the cause of the Potato disease, finds access
to the tubers from the leaves and branches
through the soil as well as through the stems ;
and the practice of “protective earthing”
is held by M. Jensen to operate against
the spread of the spores through the soil
by rendering it more difficult to reach the
tubers. Taking the reports of the experiments
last year under the auspices of the scientific
committee of the Royal Horticultural Society
at Chiswick, it would appear that little real
practical knowledge as to the advantages or
merits of the system was obtained as the result.
To carry out the system it seems necessary
that the rows should be planted further
apart than is usually the case, and successive
earthings up must necessarily increase the
labour, and in the case of field culture add vtry
materially to the cost of cultivation. It also
seems by no means certain that the theory upon
which the system is based is a sound one, as
authorities who have made the disease the sub¬
ject of special study are divided as to the true
nature of the sporadic action of the fungus
itself. Experience, however, shows that in
lifting rows of Potatoes affected with disease
it frequently happens that the Potatoes nearest
the surface are the most badly affected, and that
oftentimes, in the case of shallow planting, the
tubers next the top are the worst affected, and
that where deeper planting of the sets has been
adopted a much less percentage of diseased
tubers are found. This has been my experience
for some years, and it appears to give some
colour to the theory set up by M. Jensen that
the spores of the fungus do find access to the
tubers through the soil as well as the haulm.
Taking advantage of this fact, my practice has
been for some years to plant my sets at least
8 inches deep, and for exhibition, as well as
other purposes, I have found it answer admir¬
ably. Last season I had an opportunity of
testing the effect of shallow and deep planting
in a pot of Schoolmasters, and the result was
decidedly in favour of the latter, both as re¬
garded the weight and soundness of the crop.
It will be an easy matter for many of the readers
of Gardening to test the advantages of extra
earthings up during the coming season in rows
side by side with the old practice, and give
us the advantage of their experience. Your
correspondent further asks what is to take
the place of the Champion, seeing he finds it
becoming degenerated. I have discarded this
variety from garden cultivation for some time,
and am no great advocate for late Potatoes
under any circumstances, seeing that we have
so many really good mid season sorts that are
heavy croppers, also fine in quality, and whioh

' URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

648

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb 21, 1885

will keep good until early Potatoes are ready to
take their place. The Scotch Queen, very
similar to the Champion, but a decided improve¬
ment, might prove a good substitute ; but for
domestic purposes nothing at present has been
introduced to take the place of the well-known
Magnum Bonum. Where good Potatoes are
needed a change of seed every two years Bhould
be resorted to.—J. Knight, Bilston.

12678.—Potatoes for exhibition.—In
my winning collections of eight dishes last
season, out of about seventy sorts grown, the
following were shown in August:—Early white
round: Sutton’s Early Border ; red rounds:
Sutton’s Reading Russet and Grampian;
coloured Kidney : Beauty of Hebron ; White
Kidney : International and Radstock Kidney ;
coloured rounds : Radstock Beauty and Vicar
of Laleham. — J. Knioht, Bilston.

- White Kidneys : International, Cos¬
mopolitan, Recorder ; Red Kidneys : Mr.
Breesee, Prizetaker ; Purple Kidney : American
Purple ; White Round : London Hero, Bed font
Prolific ; Red Round : Reading Russet,
Triumph ; Blue Round : The Dean ; Pink and
White Round : Radstock Beauty. If J. Hiam
grows these to perfection he should hold a
good position in a exhibition. — T, Nadin,
A J vast on, Derby,

12681.—Oeleraic.—This will grow in any
well-manured ground if the seed is sown early
in April, and the plants put out early in July.
Probably " Ellcee’s ” experience is like my
own. It is a difficult matter to get the
right seed. Any ordinary sort of Celery is
often sent by the seedsmen as a substi¬
tute. That is my experience, and I am sorry
I cannot say where the seed may be had.—
J. C. C.

12488.—Vegetable growing. —Probably
the best and simplest vegetable for “ A. B.” to
grow would be the Jerusalem Artichoke. It
should succeed well and give a good crop of fine
tubers. Set the tubers as you would Potatoes,
during this month or early in March, after
digging the ground well over, and, if you can
manage it, manuring. Let them grow without
being earthed up, and in November they will be
ripe. It is better to leave the tubers in the
ground, taking them up as required for use. All
unused by February should then be dug up and
replanted.—J. P., Lancashire,

— Id the summer Lettuces and Cauliflowers may be
successfully grown if the soil is deeply due up and well
manured ; Jerusalem Artichokes would do fairly well, and
so would a permanent plantation of Rhubarb, for late use.
—J. C. C.

12683.—Celery plants for field cultiva¬
tion.—You must find a warm and sheltered
position on which to sow the seed, and if the
soil is not both rich and fine it must be made
so, but only well-rotted manure should be used,
and that must not be far below the surface.
Make the surface fine and moderately firm
before sowing the seed. The best varieties are
Wright’s Grove-end, white ; Leicester, red ;
and Bulham Prize, pink. 2 oz. of seed of each
sort would furnish all the plants you want if it
is properly managed. The seed of Celery is so
small that it must not be buried deep, but only
just covered with some fine soil. Sow the seed
early in March.—J. C. C.

- If “S. W. C., Spalding,” has a frame

at his command, he could not do better than
make a slight hotbed about the beginning of
March on which to sow bis seed. One oz. of
White Grove, and 1 cz. of Red Grove would be
sufficient should the seed be good. As soon as
the plants are large enough to handle they
should be pricked off on a prepared bed, where
some protection could be afforded for a week or
two, and kept well watered. The best way to
grow such a quantity with the least possible
trouble would be to make the trenches 6 feet
wide, and allow 6 feet between them. Put six
plants in the row, and allow 1 foot between the
rows. After the trenches are dug out about
one spit deep, they should be well manured and
dug over, leaving the surface as fine as possible.
The plants ought be transplanted some time in
June, and immediately watered. This is very
important in growing Celery ; it should never
be allowed to get ary. As soon as growth
begins the trenches should be well soaked with
some good liquid manure, which can scarcely be
applied too often, until the plants require
earthing up. This Bhould be done by meaus of
two boards, the length,of the rows and about 1

Digitized by VjQOglC

foot broad. Place the boards between the first
and second rows of plantB, leaving as much
space as possible ; then fill up the Bpace with
soil from the mounds between the trenches.
As soon as this is done, lift the boards carefully
up (one man at each Bide) and place them
between the second and third rows ; then firm
the soil with the hand round the plants in the
first row, taking care that all the leaves are
upright. Fill up the space between the boards
again, lift them up, firm the soil about the
second row, and so on. The trenches should
not be made too long, for the sake of watering.
The spaces between the trenches could be
utilised for growing Lettuces, Radishes, or any
other early crops.—D. D., North Surrey,

- Sow your Celery seed under elass with mild bottom

heat, and when up give plenty of air if not frosty. When
large enough to handle priok out in well-prepared beds
and replant in trenches from June to Ausrnst. I^icester
Red ia a good kind ; ) oz. I should think, would be
sufficient — Amatkuk.

12600. — Peas on Iron hurdles. —
Having found some years ago a difficulty
in getting pea sticks while in Guernsey, I
tried the plan of an old French gardener, and
have done it ever since with every success.
First, get some square garden stakes (these I
have had now for three years) of the height of
your Pea (we will say 3 feot); then, with a sprig
bit, place holes at about 6 inches apart, begin¬
ning at the top, leaving 1 foot to go into the
ground (the stake thus should be 4 feet in
length); then make your trench, say, 1 foot
wide, plant your Pea, and when just appearing
drive your stake in along each side (say about
8 feet apart); drive in two strong pieces of wood,
one at each end, get some strong twine that will
go through the holes you have made, wax it
well, put it through your holes, and secure it
at one end, running it through the holes made
in the stake at the other end. I do this every
year with the same stakes and string, so that
the first is the only cost. I have tarred the end
of the stakes. Between every other two stakes I
lace a piece of wood (say pieces of sawn lath) to
eep them in position when I tighten the string,
which I do every two or three weeks.— Stoub.

12633.—Kitchen garden.— The ground,
being a stiff clay, should not be worked in a wet
state; and you should use manure from stables.
Sow at once early Peas : William First, and
Kentish Invicta. The next sowing, early in
March, should be Day’s Early Sunrise and
Stratagem; sow for succession Stratagem and
Telephone. The best sort of Cauliflower is Early
London; sow it on the 1st of September and
keep the plants through the winter in hand-lights.
Sow Brussels Sprouts on the 1st of March. I
always purchase “Imported Brussels Sprouts.”
Sow Celery at once : Clarke’s Solid Red. Sow
Onion seed on the 1st of March : Brown Globe
and White Spanish. Sow Hollow Crowned
Parsnip at the same time, also Early Horn and
Intermediate Carrot. Sow Lettuce and Radish
seeds at once.—J. D. E.

- If the weather continues open and

favourable, a first sowing may be made at once
of Early Perfection. I have found that this
Pea is very early, and have often gathered a
week before my neighbours who had used
other varieties. At the same time sow Easte's
Kentish Invicta, and a fortnight later Laxton's
Alpha. For second, or medium crop, sow first
week in March Dr. McLean and G. F. Wilson ;
to be followed in a fortnight by Dwarf
Mammoth and Veitch’s Perfection ; as this ia
the main crop the quantity must be regulated
according to family wants, or repeated the
beginning of April. For late crop take Laxton's
Omega and Yorkshire Hero; sow them the
middle of April, the beginning, middle, and end
of May, or even later, and for a very late crop,
make a sowing of one of the early Peas named,
the middle of June. Cauliflowers should be
sown in August for spring and summer use, and
from now to end of May for autumn. It would
be best to get plants for this spring and summer’s
use ; set them in rows 2 feet apart, and 18 inches
between plant and plant. The best seeds are
Early London, Early Snowball (which should
be ready to cut in four weeks from sowing),
Veitch’s Autumn Giant, and Walcheren. Sow
in February and March for Brussels Sprouts,
and transplant in May. Take care not to crowd
I or draw the seed plants up, and let the ground
I be well manured. On the whole the imported
j seed is the best. The Aigburth is hardy and

productive, and for the very large sorts, which
are not so well flavoured as the smaller, use
Scrymger’s Giant. Broccoli is a useful vegetable,
and may be produoed in successive crops.—
J. P., Lancashire,

12667.— Peas not growing.— “ Riponite ”
does not say what Peas he sowed in November.
If they were any of the wrinkled sorts they are
probably nearly all rotten by this time, as they
are more delicate than the round varieties. If
any of the early round sorts were sown they are
no doubt all right, and will come through when
we get genial weather. However, they had
better be looked for, and, if they are not
showing signs of growth, another lot should be
sown at once.—J. C. C.

- I should think that your Peaa are old. I sowed

some in November, and I believe every Pea hoa come up,
and they are looking healthy. Mine is last summers seed
of my own saving.— Am atkur.

- Perhaps the drills in which they were sown were

too deep. The l’ea9 do not vegetate very rapidly at this
season. If the soil ia scratched away from a portion of one
of the row9 it will be ascertained whether or not the Peas
have vegetated.—J. D. E.

- Something will depend on the variety sown and

also the locality ; but if the w eather continues open and
the Peas do not show in a week the seed has mott likely
perished, and it will be the safest course to make another
sowing of an early kind. February sowings in thispait
are, as a rule, as early as November in producing - J. P.,
Lancashire.

INDOOR PLANTS.

WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS.-IV.

Cinerarias.

Cinerarias, in pure air and with suitable
treatment, may be had in bloom at any time
from October to May. For flowering about
Christmas, when the plants or blooms are most
acceptable, seed should be sown in March.
When once started and potted into 60s or
thumbs, different growers have widely different
modes of treating the plants. Some stand them
on, or plunge then in, ashes in the open ground
and full suu, when fairly established in small
pots, and allow the plants to harden for two or
three months; then shift them into 48’s, put
them inside, and soon get them into bloom.
Others grow them on without a check in pits or
frames carefully shaded from strong sunshine,
and by frequent potting obtain very fine large
plants. By following the first-named plan fine
heads of bloom are obtained, but usually the
plants are deficient in foliage, while the latter
method encourages leaf-growth at the expense
of bloom, particularly if shading is carried to
an extreme. Our owu opinion is that a middle
course is to be preferred, and that the plants
should be exposed to abundance of light and
air—in fact “hardened off” when well
established in small pots, but by no means
allowed to be scorched or stunted by too much
hot Bunshine. When shifted into 48’s or 32's the
plants must be kept comparatively cool, close,
and shaded for a time, or a large proportion
will almost surely be lost. Without doubt
Cinerarias grow more luxuriantly in low pits or
frames, on a cool damp bottom, than in houfes,
especially if these arc too dry and airy. If a
bouse must be employed it Bhould be low ; a
sunk house is best, cool and moist. Some of
the finest plants I have ever seen were grown on
a lattice stage over a large water tank in a
partially shaded and cool old greenhouse. If
grown in a cold house, the plants when showing
bloom (say towards Christmas) should be re
moved to a light position near the glass in a
house with a minimum of 45 degs. at night,
rising to 50 degs. or 55 degs. by day. Cinerarias
will not expand properly in winter with a lower
temperature than this, though os the spring
advances the increasing power of the sun
obviates the necessity for fire-heat, and it may
be taken as a hard-and-fast rule, with the single
exception given above, that the cooler Cinerarias
are kept while growing, or at any time, so that
frost is well kept away, the better. If in too
warm or dry quarters, or near hot-water pipes,
the plants will soon lose their vigour, and green
fly makes its appearance in quantity. Later
sowings made in July or August, grown on
and potted into 48's or [32’s in January, will
make nice flowering plants by the end of
March or April. Largo specimens are produced
by sowing early. Liberal treatment and fre¬
quent repotting induces a very vigorous growth,
r,fter which they seldom fail to bloom well. In

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Feb. 21, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

649

the earlier stages a light rich compost, contain¬
ing a good proportion of leaf mould and sand,
is desirable ; but wheu the dowering pots are
reached there is nothing like a good sound
loam, rather rough and turfy in character, with
about a third of leaf-mould and old hotbed
manure, a little sand (if the loam is Btiff) and a
sprinkling of charcoal and bone-dust. On the
first appearance of green fly the plants must be
thoroughly fumigated with Tobacco, for if
once this pest gets a fair footing they are
ruined ; but if kept growing in a cool, moist,
and airy atmosphere, as recommended, this
will give very little trouble, and thousands
are grown annually that never need smoking
until they are just coming into bloom. Cine¬
rarias should always be potted firmly, with
good drainage. Watering must be carefully
attended to, and the plants never allowed to get
really dry ; but should never, on the other hand,
be watered till they need it, or water-logging
may occur. With porous soil, made quite firm,
there is, however, not much danger of this.
Heliotropes.

These are exceedingly sweet and acceptable
in the depth of winter, and are easily induced
to bloom freely in a very gentle warmth
with proper treatment and pure air ; though it is
only fair to say that it is of very little use trying
to bloom Heliotropes in winter in anything like
a smoky or town air, or in a very confined situ¬
ation. Cuttings struck in May or June should
be potted on and stopped two or three times,
grown on in a light airy house or pit, with a
sweet, moist atmosphere and occasional syrin¬
ging overhead. Abundance of air must be given
throughout the late summer and autumn, to in¬
duce a hard stocky condition of the plants, for
if at all weak or drawn no good results can be
expected. About the end of September the
plants should be housed, and afforded a place
near the glass in the lightest structure avail¬
able ; there, if carefully watered and subjected
to a warmth of 50 degs. to 55 degs. or 60 degs.,
a good crop of flowers can hardly fail to be
obtained. Such plants as these, in 48’s or 32’s,
give, of course, much better results than smaller
specimens, but we have often had a good deal
of cutting from a batch of late-struck plants in
60s, placed on a shelf near the glass. The
Heliotrope will expand its flowers in a lower
temperature than that named above, but not, of
course, so well, and much more slowly.
Perhaps, however, the best way to obtain
Heliotrope blooms—certainly if quality be an
object, and if room can be spared—is to plant
out a few in a border of good soil, in a light,
fairly warm house, when under ordinary treat¬
ment a vigorous growth will be made, and an
abundance of fine blooms be secured. On the
back wall of a lean-to house, if there are no roof
climbers to obstruct the light, the Heliotrope,
planted in a border or good-sized box, may be
trained with the greatest success, and will
bloom, on the upper shoots especially, most
abundantly the winter through ; we have seen
a perfect thicket of plants, each 4 feet or 5 feet
through, and as much in height, perfectly covered
with bloom at Christmas. Nothing suits the
Heliotrope, either in pots or planted out, so well
as a good turfy or peaty loam, with a small
proportion of leaf mould or old hotbed manure,
and, for small plants at least, a little coarse
sand. In potting anything but very small
plants the soil should be made quite firm, almost
hard.

Of varieties the following are a few of the
best:—Miss Nightingale and Mrs. Lewington,
both fine old kinds with medium sized blooms,
good for pots, bedding out, or planting
under glass ; Bouquet des Violets, very dark,
one of the best and prettiest of all ; Jersey
Beauty, a very handsome old variety ; White
Lady, a comparatively new introduction, bear¬
ing, under glass, a quantity of almost pure
white flowers at any season, though out-of-doors
it is almost worthless, the blooms being neither
white nor any other colour ; Swanley Giant, a
very strong growing sort, with immense heads
of a light rosy purple, often measuring a foot or
more in diameter, very sweet; and President
Garfield, not nearly so large, but decidedly the
handsomest and most perfect kind we possess.
Of the variegated varieties Albert Delaux is
much the best, the foliage being finely marbled
with bright golden yellow, and the growth and
bloom both very good. B. 0. Ravenscroft.

Di,ffi?sTSf) ,ole

A CHAM.RDOREA.

Of all the Palms none are more graceful than
certain of the Cbamsedoreas, which, when
planted out in greenhouse or conservatory, grow
very freely, and yet, from their small size,
never rush through the roof as do some of the
coarser Palms. All the species are tropical in
their habits, although some of them are some¬
times found in higher elevations. The kinds
most likely to prove hardy in a cooliah green¬
house are C. arenbergiana, elatior, elegans,
Sartorii, and concolor.

POIN8ETTIAS.

Most of us are acquainted with these quaint-
looking flowers, which are to be bought in bloom
from November to January, but few of us
realise the disadvantage under which the Poin-
settia labours in this country. In its native
place it rears its head proudly, deserving of its
names. Out there it is called “ The Pride of
India,” and “ The Flame of the Forest.” There

causes of their failure when under any but tho
most skilful gardener’s treatment, because the
plants which are hawked about the streets are
grown in a temperature of seldom less than 80
degs. of heat, are plunged to their rims in
Cocoa-nut fibre, and “ forced ” in every seme of
the word. Buy them from any nurseryman,
where you run the chance of getting stronger
plants, which are more likely to live under
careful management. They are worth some
trouble ; there is no more stately flower than
the Poinsettia, or, to quote an old gardener’u
phrase, “more ariatocraticar,” and they last
fully two months in bloom, when once they do
bloom, if only they have sufficient water, which
should always be tepid. They like best peat
and sand to grow in. They are wonderfully free
from insect pests, too, so that the only trouble,
and that I admit is a serious and to many an
expensive one, is the quantity of heat they
require, but as they are only likely to be grow n
by those who have ample means for such
luxuries I trust we shall see better-grown
specimens than we generally
do. It is hard to believe
that what occupies the best
place in our stoves should
be regarded in its native
country in the same light as
we regard Buttercups or
Daisies.— One who Loves
Flowers, Lcthcrhcad .

[In the district in which
our correspondent lives ex¬
cellent results have been ob¬
tained by planting Poimet-
tias out-of-doors through the
summer and warm autumn
months. In the Garden of
December 6th, 1884, is an
account of plants growing
in a border in a garden near
Sevenoaks. After blooming
the plants are dried off in
the usual way, and towards
the middle or end of June
the old soil is shaken from
the roots and they are
planted out on a south
border in light, rich soil.]

A graceful Palm (Chamcedorea).

it grows most luxuriously, its branches being
clothed with nice green leaves, surmounted with
its crimson flowers of regal beauty. It grows
freely all the summer in India, braving the heat
and staring bravely at the sun, whose rays it
defies. Here it occupies the warmest place in
our stoves, and even then too often the result
of all the care lavished on it is but an ugly
straggling stem without a leaf, ending in a
miserable red flower of puny size and strength.
Poor thing ! In its native country it has two
seasons—the wet, when it grows, and the dry,
when it rests. Here, through lack of heat and
water, it mistakes what we intend to be the
“wet” season for the “ dry,” and consequently
sheds its leaves, and prepares to rest or die. In
the growing season here, which commences
about June, they require abundance of water ;
they cannot have too much, and should have
not less than 60 degs. of heat. They will bloom
in 55 degs., but not satisfactorily. They should
then be in November in full bloom, and lighting
up with their dazzling beauty masses of Ferns,
Palms, «fec., with which they should be
grouped. After they have done blooming they
should be gradually dried off until the time
to start them again arrives. Never buy them
from itinerant vendors ; this is one of the chief

Clianthus Dam pier i.
— I notice in Gardening,
January 24, that “ J. C. B.”
considers this plant a diffi¬
cult subject to manage.
Treated as a pot plant I
should say it is ; but planted
out, and liberally treated,
it is a grand plant.lt should
have a very sunny position
afforded it, and abundance
of air during the growing
season. If 1 say it is half
hardy its requirements will
"— be more readily understood.

Good turfy loam, with a
dash of Bharp sand, and a
few bits of charcoal inter¬
mixed, with good drainage, will meet its require¬
ments in this direction. Coddling will not suit
this plant, as an evidence of which I may mention
that about ten years ago I saw a fine plant grow¬
ing on a wall, facing south, in the open air,
about three miles from Swansea, close to the
sea, flourishing in the most remarkable manner,
and blooming profusely. It had stood out two,
if not three, winters when I saw it. Protection
was afforded with garden mats during frosty
weather, but at no other time. I also saw a plant
in the open about three weeks ago doing equally
well. It is a grand object when seen covered
with bloom.—W. Harris, Barnstaple.

Anseotoohilus.— I was very pleased to
see your correspondent, “J. S., bringing
these most beautiful fine foliage orchidaceous
plants to the notice of the many readers of
Gardening Illustrated, for I can fully en¬
dorse all he eays in favour of the strong-growing
ones for table or drawing-room decoration.
Like the Goodyeras and Eranthemums, they are
lovely for the above purposes ; but, like many
other plants that twenty years ago were the
pride of the gardener, they are now almost for¬
gotten. Even some of our chief nurserymen do
not grow them, owing, 1 suppose, to the fact that
there U no demand for them; one reason is

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

650

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 21, 1885.

that many people think them hard to grow.
With few exceptions this is not the case, and
many persons fail because they coddle them far
too much, and keep them far too hot during the
winter months. I know well that some of
them are very tender, and require skill to be
grown well; and before an amateur begins to
cultivate Amectoohilus, I would strongly advise
him to try the Goodyeras. They are of a more
robust nature ; many of them are mo9t beautiful
in foliage, while others have lovely flowers. Any
stove or vinery will suit them or even a close
pit, nearly all of them do not require bell
glasses, and, like Anaictochilns, they should be in
every collection of plants—in fact, I do not
know of any more interesting class of plants,
and should like to see them on the exhibition
table agaiD. This would bring them to the
front—a place they well deserve.—W. C.
Leach, Stamford.

Habrothamnus elegans. —Considering
the number of inquiries there are for plants to
cover the back walls of greenhouses, it is sur¬
prising that a plant so suitable as tho Habro-
thamnua receives no attention. If grown in a
pot or planted out it does equally well, and
furnishes during the dullest days of winter a
profusion of its coral coloured flowers, which
are extremely useful for cutting. It may be
planted to cover the back walls of vineries with

S erfect success, as the shade from the vines
oes not appear to interfere with the wood ripen¬
ing sufficiently to prevent their blooming at the
appointed time. Unless required to extend, the
plants may be cut back after flowering to within
a few inches of the previous year’s breaks, when
the shoots made will bloom almost their entire
length. The terminal flowers will open first on
a shoot, then the side shoots next towards the
base, and so on. The Habrothamnus will do
in any good soil such as is used for potting, but
prefers rather a strong loam. Frequent appli¬
cations of the syringe to keep down red spider
will be necessary.—W. Harris, Barnstaple.

REPLIES.

12679. — Solanums not fruiting. — In
answer to “ Gertrude ’ I would say that nothing
is easier to grow, and to grow in perfection, than
Solanums. In April they must be cut back
pretty hard— i.e. % cutting off nearly all last year’s
wood. Do not be afraid of this part of your
work. Then keep the plants in the greenhouse
till all danger of frost is over, say till the end
of May. During this period the plants will
begin to put out their new shoots, and greon
fly must be carefully kept off, else the young
foliage will soon be infested with it. But it is
easily kept off with a little care. When you
think it safe, turn your plants out of their pots,
and Bet them in a good rich open border,
shaking away some of the old soil before doing
so. 3 Now let nature do the rest. There will be
a rapid growth of young wood, covered with
blossom, and in due time with fruit. Jf the
weather is dry an occasional manure watering
will be acceptable; and green fly may be
looked after sometimes. Beyond this no further
attention will be needed till September, when
the plants must be tenderly lifted with a big
ball of soil and potted there and then into a
clean roomy pot, and filled in with a little good
soil. Water, and shade for a few days from
sun. This is my treatment, and I have never
known a berry drop. I have before me as I
write a plant clothed with scarlet fruit, which
has been an object of beauty for two months,
and will remain so until it is cut down. This

summer planting-out has a most beneficial effect
on many plants besides Solanums. It braces
and refreshes their constitutions, and is no doubt
looked forward to by them as a kind of seaside
trip. I have noticed a peculiarity about seed¬
ling Solanums, that they come to their fruit¬
bearing much slower than plants struck from
cuttings. This, no doubt, is owing to the fact
that the cuttings were partially matured upon
the parent tree, and on maturing all fruit
depends. For the same reason the place chosen
for planting out must be as open and sunny as
possible. I have a border under a south hedge
which I keep as a sanatorium for greenhouse
plants Buch as Solanums, Deutzias, Genistas,
and others. It is a much better plan than keep¬
ing them all the year in pots. Plants in pots
are apt to be neglected at busy seasons ; in the
ground they take care of themsel job, generally
speaking. C!an spy on® - |wL f >f Mrfcir^ Solanum

Lobelia tell me whether it is a specially good
kind ? 1 do not think I have ever met with it,
but it is described as having remarkably large
fruit, “as large as an Apricot.” Is that a
poetical license of the florists, or a fact?—
Lincolnshire Rector.

- I would advise u Gertrude ” to cut

her Solanums down at once quite low, and place
them in a warm greenhouse to encourage them
to break into growth freely, and, as soon as they
have made shoots 3 inches long, pinch the
points out to induce a dwarf bushy habit well
furnished at the base. Let them then grow
naturally uhtil April, when they may be
gradually hardened off by exposure to the open
air, and in May they should be planted out in
an open sunny position, in not ever rich soil, as
they are vigorous rooters ; keep them well sup¬
plied with water in summer if dry weather
prevails, and by September they will be quite
laden with berries. Lift them carefully, and
repot, placing them in a greenhouse or frame,
and they will make highly ornamental winter
plants.—J. Groom, Gosport.

12702.—Plants -without earth.—I havo
grown Ferns in fertilising Moss for a year, and
found Adiantum cuneatum, Pteris longifolia,
and the common Hart’s Tongue succeed best.
They are pretty for house and hall decoration,
when placed in round baskets of rabbit netting,
which look like balls of Moss, and can be set in
vases or saucers. They are easily watered, but
must not be left standing in water. I should be
glad to hear of other ferns and plants which
would grow as well in Moss as in earth. Has
anyone tried zonals ? I obtained the fertilising
moss from a Beedsman.— Dublin,

12615. —Plants for greenhouse culture.
—I have an unheated greenhouse with a west
aspect, and grow successfully Cactus (from
October to March, no water), Canterbury Bells
(blue), White Rose, in 6 inch pots, from seed,
Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Paris Daisies (yellow,
white, and blue), Carnations, Sweet Verbena,
Plumbago capensis, Cytisus, Deutzias, Spinea,
Iaolepis gracilis, Ferns (hardy ^ones, grow very
well in pots), early and late flowering Chrysan¬
themums. My greenhouse is 1G feet long by
6 feet wide, lean-to, and for the three years I
have had it all the above have grown and
flowered well in sevore frost. I use an oil-stove
that cost 17s., and can keep the temperature up
to 40 degs. Except the Daisies, at present I
have no plants in bloom, but all are healthy and
free -from insects.—X.

12701.— Culture of Camellias.— During
the dark days of mid winter they are impatient
of dry heat; an excess of this will often cause
the buds to drop off. The case alluded to in
this question doeB not seem to have arisen from
this cause. Evidently there is something wrong
with the roots, else tho foliage would not turn
yellow. When this happens, the buds are
almost sure to drop off'. Repotting Camellias
is an operation requiring great care ; the roots
are very brittle, and, the largest proportion
of them being on the outside of the ball of
roots, they are sadly damaged if this has to be
reduced. They will not do well, either, unless
the potting soil is composed of good turfy loam
and peat, both of gooa quality ; and the pots
must also be well drained.—J. D. E.

12685 — Tuberoses not flowering. —There
is not much hope of your Tuberoses flowering
now. However, you may try to induce them
to bloom by removing all the young offsets that
are attached to the old bulbs ; throw the offsets
away, and repot the old ones. I should say that
you give yours too much water before they have
made sufficient leaves, and that you keep them
too cold. Tuberoses may be flowered in a frame
if it is kept fairly close, and water supplied to
the roots only when the soil is dry. You would
be much more likely to succeed with new bulbs
than with your old ones. Even when resting
Tuberoses should not be exposed to a lower
temperature than 50 degs.—J. C. C.

126G3. — Carnations in winter. — The
ordinary type of border and show Carnations
would not flower in winter. The perpetual
flowering varieties must be grown. The cut¬
tings should bo put in now and during the
month of March ; the small side growths form
roots very readily in a gentle hotbed such as
might be constructed to grow cuttings of bed¬
ding plants in. They would root rather quicker

in a forcing house. The young plants, after
they are rooted, should be grown during the
summer in pots plunged In a position well ex -
posed to the sun out-of-doors. It will be neces¬
sary to place a Btick to each plant, and tie the
growths to it; if they are left to hang loose
they will snap off with the wind. The earliest
propagated plants will flower in September ;
the others will keep up the succession through
the winter.—J. D. E.

12G82. — Maiden - hair Ferns. — Were
these grown in a hothouse they might bo
divided at once, but being in a greenhouse it is
better to wait until the weather is warmer. We
grow a great number of them in 4-inch and
5-inch pots, and where the plants have become
too large for the pots they are turned out, and
simply cut down the middle with a knife. The
two halves are then divided, making four plants
from one. Repot again in a compost of equal
parts loam and leaf-mould. We seldom use
manure water for Ferns. If it is used at all it
must be very weak.—J. D. E.

12690.— Lilies, Carnations, and Bou-
vardias in frame. —These plants could not be
grown very successfully in a frame with Chry¬
santhemums. The Chrysanthemums would havo
to be plaoed in the house early in October, and
they would not have done flowering until the
middle of December. By the middle of Novem¬
ber some of the early flowering varieties would
be cut over, and could be cleared out; thia
would make room for Carnations and Bouvar-
dias, but they do not flower well, without more
heat than the Chrysanthemums like. The
Lily of the Valley would require quite a forcing
temperature to get it into flower in January.
It might be aided by a little bottom-heat in a
corner of the house.—J. D. E.

12693 .—Summer treatment of Cycla¬
mens. —Cool frames are the most suitable
positions in which to grow Cyclamens during the
summer months. The right way to treat them
is to arrange the plants at a uniform distance
from the glass, with the pots plunged to half
their depth in Cocoa-nut fibre refuse. As soon
as the nights are warm enough the lights should
be drawn off at night, and placed over the
plants by day, with sufficient air on. The
plants ought to be shaded from bright sunshine
with thin shading, and to be taken into a
heated house about the end of September, or
earlier if cold wet weather sets in. Slugs or
caterpillars will eat the flowers, and also the
leaves; but no cultural ability will prevent
this. All these pests must be caught and
killed.—J. D. E.

12751.—Potting soil.— Your potting soil
is either full of worms or some other insects.
Early in March shake off two-thirds of the soil
from all old plants, and all from those two
years old and under. Then wash the roots in
clean water and repot in fresh compost. See
that the fresh drainage is right and water the
soil in the pots only when it is getting dry—in
fact, the watering must be done with great care
until the plants have established themselves in
the new soil, whioh will not be until the end of
the summer. You must be careful that worms
or ants do not get into the pots again. If they
must stand on anything which harbours these
insects place a piece of slate under each pot.—
J. C. C.

12660.— Picea nobilis.— Sow the seeds of
this in pots or deep pans of soil, providing first
ample drainage and a good loamy soil with some
sand or grit. Bury the seeds half an inch under
the soil, and after the latter is watered place
the pans on a bed of soil in a cold pit or frame
where they can have the protection of a glass
light. Keep the soil uniformly moist, and wait
patiently for the result. If you havo any
number of seeds it will probably take twelve
months before they are all showing growth
above the ground.—J. C. C.

12658. —Growing African Tuberoses.
—“Abbe” does not say what convenience he
has for growing Tuberoses. If they are re¬
quired to flower as early as they can bo hail
they must have the aid of bottom-heat—such aa
a Cucumber or Melon bed affords—or the pots
should be stood on a shelf in a stove or early
vinery. Where there is not this convenience
the bulbs had better be kept dry in a warm
room until the beginning of April, and, generally
speaking, the best reBulta are obtained from

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Feb. 21, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

651

those potted late. When potting them use pots
4 4 inches in diameter, and place three bulbs in
e&ch. Prepare a compost of half-loam and leaf
soil and pot the bnlbs firm, leaving about half-
an inch of the bulbs above the soil. Water
must be given very sparingly until they, begin
to make new leaves, and atter that increase the
quantity. Those potted in April will come on
in a pit or frame if the structure is kept rather
close. If an early lot is started they Bhould be
removed from the hotbed to a warm house as
Boon as they have made sufficient leaves to reach
the rim of the pot.—J. C. C.

- 14 Abbe ” should pot three reo's in 5 inch pots, using

ordinary potting soil, such sa Pilaigoniuras would suc¬
ceed well in ; the addition of some light peat soil is bene¬
ficial. The crowns of the tubers should just project
from the soil. They succeed wall if planted in a hoi bed
or with a little bottom heat in a forcing house. A dry
high temperature is not suitable, as it encourages red
spider, which is very fond of the leaves of this plant —
i. D. E.

- Put three In a 43 size pot containing two parts

loam, one part leaf-mould, and a good dash of ailver saud.
Set the pots level on the floor of the greenhouse and give
them a good watering. Try to keep the soli moist without
heavy watering. As soon as signs of growth appear put
them in the lightest place in the greenhouse, give plenty
of air on One days, and uec the syringe frequently in One

12*11— Tacsonla Van Volxeml.— If you cannot
plant this out in the border put it in a large pot with
plenty of drainage and good fibrous peat, and some sand ;
give plenty of water, and frequent syringing through
warm weather. The flowers are produced on the lateral
shoots, and tho plant should be frequently stopped to
induce it to flower.—Oita who Loves Fmwim.

12749.— Cinerarias In greenhouse. —A cold pit
or frame is the best placo for Cinerarias until they come
into flower, if fro*,t can be kept from them by the use of

E lenty of external covering. Doubtless your plants have
ad too much heat and too much water.—J. C. C.

1 2C7d. —Gloxinia bulbe.— The pots in which the tubera
are should be watered, and as soon as they begin to grow
shake the greater part of the compost from the roots and
repot them. They do best in a temperature of 50 degs. to
66 deg*. 1 do not approve of watering the leaves of
; Gloxinias or of syringing them.—J. D. E.

OUTDOOR PLANTS',

TIGER LILIES IN THE WILD GARDEN.

Here ia a picture of Lilies, the oommon Tiger
Lily (L. tigrinum), naturalised in a garden at
Great Tew, in Oxfordshire, a place where wild
gardening is attempted with some vigour. As
will be seen, the Lilies (which were photo-

them where they often look extremely well. By
it we mean allowing the plants to take care of
themselves completely in less favourable con¬
ditions. ___

PANSY ELECTION.

Messrs. Paul and Son, of Paisley, forward us
the result of a 14 Pansy Election," at which the
votes of some of the best growers of the flower
were taken. The highest votes recorded wet e
as follows

Fancy Pansies.— May Tait (Laird and Sons),
25; W. Cuthbertson (Dobbie), 25 ; Catherine
Agnes (Dobbie), 25; Mias Bliss (Downie and
Laird), 24; Evelyn Bruce (McComb), 23 ;
James Gardner (Downie and Laird), 22; Mrs.
Findlay (Samson), 22; Mrs. T. McComb
(McComb), 21; Mrs. Jamieson (Downie and
Laird), 21 ; Mrs. G. P. Frame (Wclr), 20; Bob
Montgomery (Paul), 19 ; Craigforth (Brodie),
19; Endymion (W. Dickson), 13; Miss J.
Orkney (Dobbie), 10; Mrs. William Stewart
(Stewart), 15 ; David Saunders (Paul), 12; John
Gold (Weir), 12; Agnes Mitchell (Paul), 10;
Mrs. J. Stewart (Paul), 10 ; Mrs. J. Downie

TIGER LILIES IN THE WILD GARDEN AT GREAT TEW.

weather. Give more water as they advance in size, and i
when a few inches high put a neat stake to them.—W.
Moore, Lincoln.

12737.—Late white Ohryeanthemums.
—Japanese : Album plenum, Elaine, Ethel,
Fair Maid of Guernsey, Hiver Fleur, Mrs. C.
Carey. Large Incurved : Beverley, Empress of
India, Mrs. George Randle. Reflexed : Mrs.
Forsyth. Large Anemone: Lady Margaret,
Fleur de Marie. As a successful amateur ex¬
hibitor who has grown and shown the above
varieties, I can recommend them with every
oonfidenoe to “Constant Reader.” Lady Sel-
borne is also a good white Japanese, but an
early one.—W. N., IVimbUdon.

12756.—Growing Lapageria rosea.—
Your Lapageria rosea will do a great deal better
if planted out in the border of the greenhouse.
Dig a good-sized hole, lay a number of crocks at
the bottom, and then fill it up with peat and
sand ; put your plant in this and tread it firmly
down. It should be trained as near the glass
as possible, and have abundance of water. Perhaps
your plant is too young to flower yet—at all
events it will flower shortly under this treat¬
ment. Lapagerias are the easiest things in.the
world to grow if you remember three things
they must have—peat, water, and light.— One
who Loves Flowers.

12738. — Flowering climbers. — Try Lapageria
rosea, Habrothamnua auranticua, and Habrothamnus
faeciculatus. All these are bardy, and should be planted
out in a border in a mixture of.pe^t and saod* —O r sa wro
Loves Flowers.

Digitized!

> are bardy, and should be plantc
store of.pe^t and saad —Oh vh

b v Google

graphed when in flower) were planted in rich
ground, and to some extent left to take c ire of
themselves among the young Grass. Some
Lilies submit to this mode of treatment,-which
is, of course, better suited for places of some
extent than for small gardens. It is needless
to say that all species of Lilies are wild some¬
where, and must fight their way among plants
often stronger than themselves, and the common
M&rtagon Lily is naturalised in a good many
parts of Eogland. Of course one never gets
i the great vigour and size of spike found when
the plants are riohly cultivated, but we are by
no means sure that in some cases a more
I graceful result would not be obtained. Our
common Orange Lily is wild in the meadows of
Central Europe, usually bearing one large
j handsome flower in the Grass, and a very
beautiful object it is. In naturalising Lilies
much discrimination and some consideration of
species and soil are required, but we believe
that interesting work may be done in that way,
and that Lilies which we now sometimes find
delicate when grown in rich ground may, having
j a straggle with other plants of a similar stature,

I be more healthy and enduring. The Turk’s
1 Cap and the Pyrenean Lily are naturalised
here and there in our p&rkB and woods, and
grow and flower freely, just as one or two of the
smaller kinds of Gladiolus are naturalised in the
New Forest and Isle of Wight. This term has
no application to the cultivation of Lilies in
mixed beds of shrubs, an excellent place for

(Sutherland), 10; Mrs. Goodwin (Dobbie), 10;
Mrs. Storrie (Paul), 9; Charles Stansell
(Stansell), 9 ; Perfection (Dicksons and Co ), 9 ;
Mrs. Barrie (Downie and Laird), 8; Ruby
(Laird and Sons), 8; Mrs. Forrester (Downio
and Laird), 8; David Wallace (Stewart), 8;
Earl Be&consfield (Samson), 8 ; Mrs. Donoafc
(Robertson), 6; Bossie Stewart (Paul), ft;
Maggie Weir (Trew), 5 ; Mrs. Sword (Suther¬
land), 5 ; Flora Gem (Matheson), 5; A- Mac¬
millan (Dobbie), 5; Robert Goodwin (Dobbie),5.

Show Pansies.— Dark ■ Selfs : Rev. J. Mor¬
rison (Taylor), 25 ; D. Malcolm (Cuthbertson),
23 ; Peter Lyle (Paul), 19 ; Mauve Queen (Paul),
18; Andrew Miller (Paul), 17 i CrosshUl Gem

(-), 14 ; Harry Paul (Paul), 13 ; Alexander

Watt (Paul), 11 White Selfs Mrs. Galloway
(Paul), 23; MrB. Dobhie (Dobbie). 23; Mrs.
Cadzow (Dobbie), 22 ; Mrs. Turnbull (Dobbie),
21; Mrs. Goodall (Paul), 13.— Yellow Selfs
Gomar (Ross), 25 ; G. McMillan (Dobbie), 24 ;
William Crockart (Dobbie), 24 ; Lizzie Stewart
(Dicksons and Co.), 11 ; Golden Bee (Paul), 6.
__White Grounds. Mrs. J. G. Paul (Paul), 24 ;
Mrs. James Millar (Paul), 24; Jessie Foote
(Downie and Laird), 24 ; Miss Ritchie (Dobbie),
19 ; Mias Barr (Robertson), 18 ; Jeanie Grieve
(Dicksons and Co.), 18 ;Miss Meikle (Paul), 14 ;
Mrs. Stewart (Stewart), 8 ; Miss Baird (Paul),
6 .— Yelloxo Grounds : D. Dagliah (Robertson),
25 ; William Robin (Paul), 22 ; J. B. Robertson
(Robertson), 20; Robert Pollock (Paul), 15 ;
Lizzie \pulleqlt (Sutherland), L*rd- F.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

652

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb 21, 1885.

Cavendish (Robertson), 13 ; Thomas Ritchie
Robertson), 12; Bailie Cochrane (W. Dickson),
11 ); G. S. Veitch (White), 10.

Sulphate of ammonia for Chry¬
santhemums. — In his answer to query
12574, Mr. Burbidge recommends this manure
as one of the secrets of the exhibitors, and there
is no doubt it is a first-rate stimulant. For
plants in open borders, however, it has one
drawback. Before using it, I was told by a
farmer that it would “ draw the soil,” and that
is exactly what it did. It produced Bplendid
plants and a fine bloom, but it must have sent
every particle of nourishment in the borders
into the plants, for after one season the borders
were completely impoverished, and had to be
almost re-made with rotted dung and leaf-mould.
The old soil was only of use as sand would be—
to dilute more nourishing stuff. For pot plants,
where the soil is to be thrown away after use,
sulphate of ammonia is invaluable, but for
open ground, genuine Peruvian guano is prefer¬
able, as it is nearly as good as a stimulant and
does not impoverish the soil in the same way.
Sulphate of ammonia is a good thing to keep
as a sort of plant medicine to stimulate sickly

S lants, and help newly-planted seedlings to take
old of the ground.—J. D., Salisbury.
Propagation of Mistletoe.— In giving
directions to “ Mistletoe ” how to propagate,
you say, “make a slit in the bark.” I can
assure you this is not at all necessary. If
“Mistletoe” will, as you suggest, stick the
seeds on the under side, nine out of every ten
will grow, provided birds, mice, Ac., allow them
to remain. Three years ago I stuck a lot (per¬
haps twenty) on a white Thorn. This last
spring I discovered two tiny plants, bo they
took two years to commence growth. One of
these has now four leaves—thl other, the first,
two only. Let “ Mistletoe ” stick on plenty,
some of them will escape the vermin ; but if he
values his Apples, and should be alive fifteen or
twenty years hence, he will be sorry he planted
it.— F. H., Ventnor.

Veronica longifolia var. subsessilis.
—As my words on that grand Veronica longi-
folia, var. subsessilis, at p. 623, have given
rise to a few queries, will you allow me to say
that its period of bloom is a pleasingly prolonged
one from the way in which lateral spikeB issue.
In good rich loam, and a sunny position, it
grows a yard high. Habit most vigorous. I
think it is likely to grow well in most gardens,
and it is a good town-garden subject. Yes ; old
roots four or even two years old (for in that
time they get very bulky) do rot. This may
be prevented by yearly divisions when the
collars of each part should be examined for
abnormal excrescences, or a sort of clubbing,
similar to that often seen in tall Phloxes and
some of the perennial Sunflowers. These
canuot come to anything; therefore they rot,
and the mass of corruption being seated on the
most vital part of plant there is a speedy
collapse. So far as my observation has gone,
this form of growth belongs to plants of an
exuberance of vigour, or it can be caused by
extra feeding. All these warty parts should be
rubbed oir, so as to give the natural crowns
their proper chance. This dividing business
may be done with one set of roots in September,
and with another in February, the advantage
being that there will be a late crop of flowers on
the later divisions, which, however, will not
be in their prime till the following year.—
J. Wood.

Plumbago Larpentee.-Mr. Edward Woodall, refer-
ring to Mr. J. Wood’s remarks as to the dwarf Plumbago
Lwpentas February 7th, pp. 027-8), tells us that it flowers
quite freely with him in Yorkshire on a dry bank under a
Yucca or other plant that affords it shelter from the rain.

Encouragement for amateurs.— As a
weekly reader of Gardening for the last four
years, I have from time to time taken great
interest in the articles on the growth of flowers,
vegetables, Ac., contained therein. But I have
often thought that in some cases they tend to
dishearten rather than stimulate the young
beginner. The processes are so elaborate, and
the component parts of the soil (many of them
out of the reach of the amateur) so varied that
oue is apt to give up in despair. For the benefit
of such I will give a little of my experience for
many years. In the first place, anyone in posses¬
sion of a plot of afbifod tnat will jrrow Cabbages

Digitized by VjO OlC

need not despair of growing either annuals,
perennials, or biennials very creditably; of
course, 1 do not mean for exhibition purposes,
where quality is sacrificed for quantity. 1 have
old stools of Chrysanthemums, which measure
more than a foot in diameter, they bloomed last
season as well os could be desired, although they
have not been disturbed for years ; nor have
they received any manure since planted. I
have been for the last two or three weeks cutting
Narcissus from bulbs planted five years ago, and,
like the Chrysanthemums, they have received
no manure. I could enumerate a number of
other things that have grown with equal success.
I may add that my soil is very light, and com¬
posed of two-thirds sand, and in summer suffers
much from draughts.— J. C. Tonkin, Scilly
Isles.

The “ Burning Bush.”— There is no
doubt that the Fr&xinella catches fire when a
light is brought near it, or, rather, that the
plant on a warm, still night is surrounded by
some kind of vapour which, if a light is applied
to it, catches fire. I often saw it in Somerset¬
shire, but was always told that if it were too
frequently repeated the plant would die.
Loudon's “ Encyclopaedia of Plants ” says (page
354): “ Exuding a viscid juice or resiu, which
exhales in vapour, and in a dark place may be
seen to take fire.”—C. M. M., Upper Tooting.

REPLIES.

12748.— Plants for town.— Many of the
spring bulbs may be had from Covent Garden
and other places in boxes from which they
could safely be transplanted into the border. If
a fair amount of sunshine finds its way in, the
following will do : Snapdragons, Columbines,
Campanula grandis, Monarda didyma, Chry¬
santhemums (unequalled as town flowers) of
the Potnpone class, and Irises (in which are
many beautiful colours). The Germanica sec¬
tion will grow anywhere. Sunflowers will do,
for I have seen very fair specimens opposite the
Bank of England. Dahlias, London Pride (for
bordering), Everlasting Peas and Sweet Peas,
Funkias, Gladiolus, Day Lilies, Harpalium
rigidum, .1 a pan Anemones, Lupinus polyphy llus,
Michaelmas Daisies, double and single Pyreth-
rums, Rosy Yarrow, and some of the easiest-
grown annuals, such as Nasturtiums ^nd major
Convolvulus.—T. J. VY., Crouch Hill .

12608.— Carnations and Piootees.—
The following are good, tolerably free, yellow

round varieties : King of Yellows (yellow-

aked rose), Charles I. (edged deep rose),
Florence (clear pale buff), Miss Wheeler (pale
sulphur, suffused white), Annie Poole (heavy
red edge), Juliet (sulphur and white), Pauline
(lemon-edged carmine), Venus (clear buff yellow),
Dr. Abercrombie (deep yellow, faint red vein-
ings), Niphetos (sulphur yellow, shaded white),
Lady Armstrong (deep yellow, rose edge), Kate
Vaughan (bright yellow).—J. P., Lancashire.

12GG9.— Double Dahlias for open gar¬
den In London. —The dwarf kinds are best.
Some of them have fine double flowers. Alba
floribunda nana, George Thompson (yellow),
and Rising Sun (scarlet)—these three are
splendid for producing cut flowers. The nine
best taller varieties are Burgundy (dark purple
maroon), Canary (yellow), Drake Lewis
(scarlet), George Rawlings (maroon), Joseph
Ashby (orange shaded), Mrs. Gladstone (blush),
Edward Peek (lilac striped maroon), Henry
Glasscock (buff striped crimson), John Forbes
(fawn striped maroon).—J. D. E.

- The following are good showy Dahlias

(double) which I have grown successfully near
a large city : George Rawlins (dark maroon).
Cardinal (lich scarlet), Mandarin (yellow striped
purplish crimson), Annie Neville (pure white),
James Cocker (purple), Henry Bond (lilac),
Beauty (yellow tipped rosy white), Her Majesty
(white edged purple), Charles Leicester (bright
scarlet), Dragon (yellow striped crimson), Earl
Beaconsfield (fine plum), Messrs. Hensh&w
(white), Pluto (dark maroon), Ovid (rich puce),
Professor Fawcett (lilac, striped chocolate).—
J. P., Lancashire.

- Walter H. Williams, scarlet; Annie Nq\ ille, white ;

Pioneer, velvety black ; Joseph B. Service, yellow ; Jas.
Cocker, purple; W. P. Laird, Iliac ; O'id, rich puce;
Rosy Morn, hoautiful rose colour ; Mrs.- *V. E. Gladstone,
i silvory piuk ; Mrs. hods, bluah contr«, # outer petals light
lilac ; Herbert Turner, French wb.,te ; Heury Walton,
I yellow ground, edged verinlllou.— amatepb, Durham.

12659 and 12662.— Ivy cuttings.— If “A
Young Subscriber” has any wish for immediate
effect, it is well-rooted plants, and not cuttings,
that he must employ, as the cuttings must first
take root, and get established before growth
can be made. No time should be lost in getting
the cuttings put in. There is no fear as to
result, if good sized shoots can be obtained. Let
them in at least from 4 inches to 6 inches deep,
in a hole made with a dibber, and press them
firmly in position ; secure the top from wind-
waving, and shade during bright weather until
well rooted. The common Ivy strikes root very
freely, but the variegated kinds need more
attention.—J. G., Hants.

- There is not much chance of Ivy cuttings

which are put into the open border now striking
in time to be planted out in spring. If put in a
moist and shaded place in August they may be
ready for planting out in spring. At a north
wall, when the soil is not too dry, they may be
put in and struck, and as many as are wanted
allowed to remain. Cuttings will also strike and
grow rapidly if put in a frame with a little heat,
shaded, and the soil kept continually moist. If
planted out in spring they must be constantly
watered, and it would be better to defer plant
ing them out until the hot weather is past,
unless they can be placed in a naturally damp
and shady situation.—P. R.

-I have struck many cuttings this winter by merely

sticking pieces 8 inches or 4 inches in length into the
wet sand of a flower tray in a sitting-room. Not oue
cutting failed, and some planted out three weeks ago
against a north wail arc already growing.— Devon.

12785. — Camellias in open air. —
“ E. H. YV.” will find the following most suited
to open air cultivation : Carolina, Prince
Leopold, Perfection, Eclipse, and Duchess of
Orleans. They should be planted in a mixture
of peat and leaf-mould. Never let them sutler
from want of water. The border on which they
are planted should not be disturbed more than
necessary to remove weeds. Give them a top
dressing of fresh soil every winter. Now is a
good time to plant them ; they can be planted
of any sizo you like. Never allow snow to rest
on their branches. In a severe winter it is a
good plan to bind straw round tbeir stems.—
One who Loves Flowers.

12719.—Lilies for open border.—1 grow
Lilium auratum, L. chalcedonicum, L. longi
florum, L. davuricum, L. candidum, L. specie-
sum, roseum, rubrum, and album, common
Tiger, L. tigrinum fl. pi., and L. tigrinum
splendent*. The last two grow about 7 feet
high, and have often about 28 blooms on them.
I have other Lilies whose names I do not know.
I find they do very well with me outside. I do
not give them very much care, and they all
receive the same treatment—a bed of well
rotted turf and manure, and well mulohed wilh
fresh manure every winter ; in dry weather in
summer I sometimes give a pan of water.—
Mrs. L., North Berwick.

12718.— Vases for plants.— I can confidently recom¬
mend “ Ivanhoc” to try terra-cotta vases ; there la nothing
to beat them. They stand better than stone in cither
to n or country in the matter of keeping a pleasing uni¬
form colour. They are infinitely more wearing than
stone and much less expensive.—Ru' isald UrcH£R.

12720. Missing Speedwell.— The description of
this plant answers to Veronica prostrata, and if " Aristo
i phanas ” will send me his address I shall have much
pleasure in sending a plant.—Mas. Lyi.s, North Bencirl,
N.B.

12772.—Pyracantha.—Crataegus pyracantha is one
of the best evergreen wall plants we have. It can be
grown from seed more quickly if the pulp Is taken off than
otherwise. Sow in moist, sandy loam. The plant prefers
a well drained and sunny position, and flowers on the
young wood —T. J. W., Crouch Hill.

12747.— Pegging down single Dahlias.—I pegged
down a quantity of seedling single Dahlias last sumnu r,
and the result was good. When in bloom they were not
higher than the Verbena. The sore is of no cousequenoe-
any soit will do ; but it must be done w’hen they are quite
dwarf, or they will break off.—E. W., Kingsworthy.

12G92.— Heating email greenhouses.—
The pipe in the houses is 3 inches in diameter, and
is carried once round the greenhouse, and may
measure in total length then about 52 or 54 feet.
It is taken twice round three sides of the
fernery, and one length only—say 6 feet—at the
back of the frame. Instead of saying a 1-inch
coil I ought to have said a 1-ineli pipe four
times coiled round, measuring right across 14
inches ; this is surrounded by fire. The stove
was made to our owu fancy ; is similar in prin
clple to those advertised, but the outer part or
case of those is metal, and otpc* is brick.—T. B.

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

Feb. 21, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

053

THE COMING WEEK S WORK,
Glasshouses.

Two very valuable soft-wooded plants for
flowering at this season are Eupatorium Wend
landi and Salvia gesnera?flora. These should
new be assisted with weak liquid manure to
fully develop their tine heads of bloom. A good
batch of the double-flowered Petunias should
now be started in gentle heat for early summer
decoration. Mimuluses must be divided and
started in frames. The best are the varieties
of M. cupreus and M. moschatus Harrisoni.
Hydrangeas that have formed their trusses of
flowers must be kept well fed till the blossoms
are expanded. Keep the general stook of hard-
wooded plants well ventilated. Young plants in
free growth will be benefited by a light shading
on sunny days, and they should now be occa¬
sionally dewed over with the syringe.

Chrysanthemums and Pelargoniums. —
Where propagation of Chrysanthemums is not
done before the close of the year, a sufficient
stock of cuttings may be put in. They will
root if kept moderately close under a propa¬
gating glass in a little warmth, or even in the
greenhouse. Where quantities of cut flowers are
regularly required, a sufficient stock of early
large flowering Pelargoniums should be grown ;
the varieties cultivated by the market growers,
which are naturally early and free bloomers,
and will bear a good amount of fire-heat without
running to growth, should be selected.

Flower Garden.

Roses and climbers. —The mild winter
puzzles one to know what to do with Roses, for
the wood is as succulent as it was in September
last, and new shoots are several inches long.
Such untimely growth must, to say the least,
injuriously affect the future well-being of the
plants. If pruned now, the buds as soon as
started might be crippled by sharp frost, and if
left to grow as they now are doing, they must of
necessity be constitutionally weakened. In such
a dilemma it is best of two evils to choose the
lesser, and this, I think, would be to prune forth¬
with, and also closer than usual—to the
lowest prominent buds, which, as a matter of
course, will be the latest to start, and may con¬
sequently escape injury from frost. The mulch¬
ing should still be left on the beds. Newly-
planted standard Roses should be tied to sup¬
ports, and also mulched. The weather and
state of the wood are this season both in favour
of late planting, so that any Roses yet to be
planted may be expected to do as well as those
put in in November. Prune and nail, or tie in
climbing Roses, Clematises, Wistarias, Vir-

r ian Creepers, and all other deciduous climbers.

the principal shoots are well secured to the
walls, wires, or trellis at this season, they will
give but little trouble all the summer, and may
with greater certainty of safety be left to grow
somewhat loosely from the wall or trellis, an
infinitely better plan than that of keeping the
young growths closely tied in. Ivy on buildings
and banks should be trimmed up before the
plants start into new growth. L.

Fruit.

Early vines. — Remove surplus bunches
from the early vines before they come into
flower, leaving the most compact and beat
laced for the crop, and fertilise with Ham-
urgh pollen all shy-setting kinds when they
are dry and the temperature of the house has
reached the maximum. All the Muscat-flavoured
varieties, with the exception of Madresfield
Court, require a little more heat than Mam-
burghs to set them properly, and on this
account they should be grown at the warmest
end of the house. If insufficiently thinned the
berries become wedged and distorted, and
Beldom keep well, even in summer, while, on the
other hand, too much thinning results in a
large-berried, straggling bunch, which never
travels well, and spreads all over the dish as
soon as it is cut from the vine. In all cases the
early and complete thinning of free setting
kinds as soon as they are out of flower should
never be neglected. With increasing length
of days and a continuance of mild weather, good
progress may be made by shutting in plenty of
sun heat, but 60 degs. to 65 dogs, for Ilam-
burghs, and 65 degs. to 70 degs. for Muscats
through the night will be quite sufficient.

Mid-season vines, such as Black Morocco,
Mrs. Pince, Gros Colmar f and some of,the best

Digitized by CjQOglC

white varieties, exclusive of Muscats, should be
helped forward with fire-heat and fermenting
material to insure an early break and a long
growing season. If Hamburghs are not grown
with them for fertilising purposes, see that a
stock of pollen is collected from the early house
when in flower. An important adjunct in the
setting of all shy kinds of Grapes is the main¬
tenance of fresh, active roots in a warm, well-
drained internal border, and where these con¬
ditions do not exist the vigorous application of
steel forks, new drainage, and fresh compost
will be found the beat remedy.

Late Vines. —Internal borders may be reno¬
vated at any time after the Grapes are ripe ;
the month of February is perhaps the best for
lifting and re-laying the roots outside, and,
quality being of more importance than quan¬
tity, the borders should be elevated on good
drainage, with a run of 6 feet to 9 feet inside
and out. Good sods of turf, built up as the
border is made, form the beBt retaining walls,
as they are dry, warm, and elastic. Rich, turfy
loam, burnt earth, and 12 per cent, of crushed
bones make an excellent root-producing compost,
and frequent mulching with rotten manure will
keep them in full activity near the surface.

Melons. —The first batch of plants should
now be taking to the compost in which they
have to grow until they have matured a crop
of fruit. If in 16 inch pots, keep the fer¬
menting leaves in which they are plunged
frequently turned and renovated with a
little short, horse manure to prevent the
bottom-heat from falling below 85 degs.
Place a stout stick to each plant, and train up
the trellis as growth proceeds. When this
stage has been reached, remove all side shoots
at the first bud from the main stem, and care¬
fully preserve the leaves for the twofold pur¬
pose of increasing the vigour of the plants,
and the prevention of canker when the time
arrives for shutting up with strong heat and an
abundance of moisture. To secure an early
11 set ” of fruit, free kinds may be stopped when
they have extended from 3 feet to 4 feet over
the trellis ; they will then throw out a great
number of side shoots, bearing female blossoms,
which must be fertilised, thinned out, and
pinched when a pair of equal size have been
decided upon. W.

Vegetable*.

The best Rhubarb got through the yearis that
grown in early spring by merely laying a little
long litter on the crownB. The same may also
be said of Seakale, but this should be covered
with burnt refuse to exclude light, finishing off
with a few half rotten leaves. This is ready to
cut in the end of March, and is truly delicious.
Early Radishes we grow in boxes 6 inches deep.
They are placed in gentle heat until well up,
when they are thinned out and transferred to
cold houses close to the glass. Tarragon, Mint,
and small Balading we grow in the same manner.
Early Potatoes in boxes should now be earthed
up to the level of the box, giving no more
water than is absolutely necessary. Nothing
is so impatient of water as early forced Pota¬
toes. Our early frame Potatoes receive only
one watering during the time they are growing,
and that is before they are earthed up. If they
are watered at that time and earthed up im¬
mediately afterwards the soil about the roots
keeps sufficient moisture for their roots. We
planted our first house of Tomatoes, Feb. 11th.
The young plants grow much stronger when
planted out than in pots ; keep the house humid
and warm, say from 55 degs. to 60 degs. at
night, with a proportionate rise in the day
time, admitting air on all favourable occasions.
The general work just now is to keepwell ahead
with digging. G.

12780 — Mixture, and 12795— Clayey
soil. — 11 Hardwork ” and “ A Beginner ” both
appear to be in the Bame difficulty. The only
thing to do with clay is to dig it up deeply in
dry weather, and incorporate with it plenty of
sifted ashes, and such stuff as that. Constant
working (but never in wet weather) will effect
wonders with it, but is essentially a matter of
time. I should advise both to get an adjacent
florist to send in a quantity of good sound loam,
and then to dig out holes in the clay, wherever
a plant is wanted to go, and fill in with it. The
expedient would tide over the summer, and in
the autumn the process of amelioration might
commence.—T. J. W., Crouch Hill.

ROSES.

REPLIES.

124*29.—Rose cuttings in bottles.—I
have grown these with success, and find that
they succeed in any wide-necked bottle filled
with water, and at any time of the year. Now
is a good time. The cuttings must be taken
with a heel, not out straight off the bush, and
the bottle should be set near glass. They will
soon throw out roots, or become callused, and
in a few weeks may be set in a pot of mould.
The water may be changed if it becomes thick.
Passion Flower, Virginian Creeper, and many
other plants will grow in the same way. I have
a spray of the common ground Ivy which I put
in specimen glass of water nearly two years ago,
and it threw out roots, and is still growing, not
near glass.—S. M. M.

12757.— Bankaia Roses.— These Roses
would not be likely to flower satisfactorily
trained to pillars and exposed to east winds ;
they require the warmth of a wall to do well.
The mildew is no doubt caused by the cold east
winds. Want of root moisture would also
favour the spread of mildew. Try cutting back
all the loose growth early in June, and preserve
all that is made during the remaining part of
the summer, for they flower on wood of the
previous year’s growth. The fact that your
Roses are trained to pillars necessitates a too
severe system of pruning. For this Rose greater
freedom is required.—J. C. C.

12760. — Gloire do Dijon Rob© in
greenhouse. —Your Rose was in some way
unduly excited, or it would have commenced to
grow in December. It evidently had a serious
check at the roots or from a sudden lowering of
the temperature. In other respects your
management appears to be all right, unless you
have kept up a higher temperature than we
should surmise. Unless your house is devoted
entirely to Roses, it ought not be kept above
45 degs. during the winter. If you want Roses
to be grown as dwarf bushes any of the Tea
section will suit you ; if for training under the
glass Marcchal Niel (yellow), Cheshunt Hybrid
(red), Reine Marie - Henriette (red), Celine
Forestier (yellow).—J. C. C.

12754.—Cloth of Gold Rose. —The roots
of your Rose would, no doubt, be grateful for
more sun and air ; but if you can get the branches
well up into the light it may probably do fairly
well. Cannot you plant the roots outside, and
train the branches through a hole in the wall
and under the glass ? If you can do so at once.
This is not the beat Rose for growing under glass,
unless you can shade the glass during the sum¬
mer months and give them plenty of air,
Fortune’s yellow Rose would do better, and so
would Celine Forestier, or Cheshunt Hybrid,
which is of a deep red colour, very sweet
scented, and a vigorous grower. I have not
mentioned Marcchal Niel, because I presume
you know how well suited it is for your pur¬
pose.—J. C. C.

12740.—Getting 1 rid of ants.—I know of nothin?
that will get rid of ants so quickly as petroleum poured
into their neats and runs.—J. C. C.

12733.—Slug pests.—If there are any plants in the
ground the strong salt water will certainly kill them as
well os the slugs. Take some lime—say a piece as large
as a brick—and put it into a tub of water, and let it settle
clear ; then syringe the water over the garden in the
evening, when some slugs are sure to be about, and it will
destroy them without Injury to the plants. Much maybe
done at night with a lantern and a pair of scissors.—
T. J. W., Crouch HilL

12699. — Slow-combustion stove. — Iu
this case I think the slow combustion principle
has not been sufficiently borne in mind, and the
stove has consequently been over-heated, with
the bad results described. These stoves can
scarcely be kept burning too slowly, or at too
low a temperature, to give satisfactory results
in a greenhouse. Besides, if it has been allowed
to smoke and fill the house with fumes, this
alone would be quite sufficient to account for the
ill-health of the plants. Under the circum¬
stances, it was, perhaps, as well to discard the
stove ; but, before final dismissal, I would have
tried the effect of a exp on the chimney, as a
preventive of the down draught. With this,
and a little careful regulation of the damper,
with a view to keeping the heat down, it is just
possible the affair may have turned out a success
after all.—K.. Soitlhrad. . _

UNIVERSITY Or ILLINOIS AT
URRANA-CHAMPAIGN

664

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 21, 1885,

FRUIT.

REPLIES.

1 2632. — Training Grape vine.— Strain
wire horizontally about 15 inches from the glaBs,
and 12 inches asunder. Place the vine in the
centre of the house at the front, train up one
rod as near the centre of the house as possible,
and one on either side of this one 18 inches
from the endB. Trained in this way you will
quickly cover the roof to the best advantage.
To succeed you should plant the vine in a
border either inside the house or outside, and
bring in through the front wall. Good turfy
loam, with a few crushed bones and a little
charcoal intermixed, forms the best compost for
the vine. Good drainage is essential If the
natural soil is good you may grow good Grapes
by breaking it up to a depth of 18 inches, and
working in about a barrowful of fresh horse-
droppings, one peck of crushed bones, one peck
of charcoal, rather larger than a walnut, and
two pecks of old lime rubbish to each square
yard of surface broken. You may plant any
time from now till the buds begin to swell, or
repot. For management study Gardening
from week to week.— W. Harris, Barnstaple.

12688 —Grape out-of-doors.—It is a
mistake to plant Gros Colmar out-of-doors as it
is a late Grape, requiring a high temperature to
ripen well. The best of all Grape vines for
culture on a wall out-of-doors is Royal Mus¬
cadine. The small Black Frontignan succeeds
out-of-doors, but it is not worth growing in
comparison with the other, which is white. The
Black Hamburgh would be more likely to
succeed out of doors than any other black
variety. I have not had any experience with
it; but I fancy that Foster’s White Seedling
would probably succeed in a good position out-
of-doors.—J. D. E.

_ Your Grape vine, Gros Colmar, will only fruit

under glass. You want a White Sweetwater, or Black
Hamburgh, for out of-doors.—J. H., Essex.

_ Root out the Gros Colmar Grape as worthless for

your purpose, and put in its place a common White
Sw etwater.— J. C. C.

12610.— Mealy bug on vines — Paraffin undiluted
and applied to vines, as suggested by “Derby,” would cer¬
tainly destroy the vines. — W. Harris.

QUESTIONS.

Rules for Correspondents.—AM communication*
for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of Garden¬
ing, 37, Southampton Street, Corent Garden, London. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher. The name and
address of the sender is required in addition to any designa¬
tion he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than
one query is sent each should be on a separate piece of
paper. Answers should always bear the number placed against
the query replied to, and our readers will greatly oblige us by
advising, so far as their knowledge ami observations permit,
the correspondents who seek assistance. Conditions, soils,
and means vary so infinitely that several answers to the same
question may often be very useful, and those who reply would
do well to meudion the localities in which their cxjvrience is
glined. Correspondents who refer to articles inserted in
Gardsninq should mention the number in which they
appeared.

All answers, with the exception of such as cannot well be
classified, will be found in the different departments
Queries not answered should be repeated.

Naming plants or tmlU—Four plants, fruits, or
flowers only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens are sent. We do not undertake to
name varieties of florists 1 flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a socialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
name should always accompany the parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
specimens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12314.— Cucumbers —What are the best kinds of

Cucumber?—H. P. M., Wick, N.D.

12816.— Tar.— I am about to tar some fencing—what
would be best to add to it to make it dry hard?—W.
Torore.

12810 .— Melons.— Can someone recommend me some
really good, well-flavoured Melons, that fruit well, and are
oi a moderate size?—H P. M., Wick, N.B.

12317.— Ice boots —19 there any kind of boot arrange¬
ment to enable one to walk with comfort on icy or frozen
ground in country places?—V. R. T.

12318.— Artificial asphalt.— Will;any reader kindly
eive me a good receipt for asphalting garden path?—
W. F.

12319 .—Washing wall—I shall bo glad to be told
the best stuff to wash a wall with while the fruit trees are
unnailed, both for appearance and to keep off insects.—
SuBScaiHKR, Middlesex.

12820.— Cement for hot-water pipes —Will some
reader tell me of a good cement for hot-wat«r pipe joints,
as the Portland will not stand ; and how long will it take
to set?—Y orkshire.

Digitized by GOOglf

12821.—Grafting Roses.—What is a Manetti Stock ?
Can grafting be successfully done on the wild Brier in
its wild state and transplan ted Jin autumn ? And, if so,
when is the best time to graft or bud?— Bernard.

12822.—Double white Daisies from seed —I
shall be much obliged for information as to raising a
quantity of double white Daisies from seed, when and
how to sow, &c.— North East, Cheshire.

12323.— Walnut trees.— Will some reader tell me
what to do with my Walnut trees? They have been
planted about fifty years, and I only had two hundred nut*
last year from one tree. Ought they to be root-pruned ?
—Albert Mitchell.

12824.— Hardy Heaths —Should be glad to know’
how to treat a bed of hardy Heaths that have bean planted
seven years. Some of the plants are gettiug straggly and
hollow at the bottom. When and how should they be
pruned ?—C. M., Burton on-Trent.

12825.— Roses in pots.— I find it necessary fre¬
quently to syringe Roses with soft soap in order to keep
off green fly ; would any Rose-grower inform me if the
soapy water, sinking to the roots, is likely to hurt the
plants?—C. A. H.

11826.—Azalea leaves turning brown.-1 have
some of these plants well set with buds, but the leaves
turn brown and drop off. Will someone tell me what is
the cause and the best remedy ?— Constant Rbadkr,
London.

12827. -Soap-suds with soda for manure —Are
soap-suds in which the common washing soda has been
used a good and suitable manure for vine borders and
Chrysanthemums in the open ground? It is the soda
alone about which I am doubtful.— Soda.

12828.— Saving Cineraria seed.— I shall bo glad
if someone will tell me a sure way of saving Cineratia
see i ? As soon as the blossoms have done their best they
droop, and ultimately wither away, although I have tried
them in various degree j of temperature.— Amateur,
Bristol.

12829.—Fig trees in Essex —I have several Fig
trees on a west wall, crowded with young wood, and also
with young wood springing from the roots. They bear,
but the fruit has not ripened this last two or three yeirs.
Would anv reader say what treatment they require ?—
A. G„ Maldon.

12830. -Cultivation of Roses. -1. What is the best
liquid manure for standard Roses grown in the open?
2. What quantity of cow or Peruvian guano should be
used to each gallon of water, and how often used ? 3. Should
standards planted In December and January be pruned
this spring?— Bernard. j

12831.—Cultivation of Maiden-hair Fern —I
wish to gst plants to cut from at once, and I should like
to know how to cultivate them so as to have a constant
supply all the vear round. I have a lean-to hothouse, sun¬
less, and a cool greenhouse, sun all day.—A. B., Notting¬
ham.

12332. — Culture of Pancratlums. — Will any
reader tell me the exaot way of growing and managing
Pancratium* 1 Are they hardy greenhouse plants, or do
they require stove heat ? I have had four splendid roots
for four years, and can never make them do more than
produce a few leaves.—L. M. D.

12838.— Vines not fruiting.— My vines are not show¬
ing for fruit; they have broken very strong and healthy,
but I can as yet see no sign of bunches of Grapes The
house was started January 1st. Two years ago they bore
a very heavy crop, and last year a fair one. The vines
appear to have broken much stronger this year than la*t.
They have had the best of manure, Sic.— C. F.

12834. — Sowing Geranium Vesuvius. — For
years I have tried to obtain seed of Geranium Vesuvius,
but have been told it is useless trying to raise from seed,
as the percentage of plants would be so small. One firm
puts it os low as 25 per cent. Any remarks from readers
who have tried raising from seed, and the remits obtained,
will oblige.—E., East London.

12835.— Camellias.— I have two Cjtnelliis in a cold
greenhouse in Lancashire. One of them has been in bud
about five months, and yet thera is no sign of opening ;
the other has not had any buds, and the leaves all hang
down. WRat causes the bads to drop off? They have
been watered very freely, and have bad no heat.—
Anxious.

1x836. — Destroying sparrows.— My garden, being
noar a town, is infested by great numbers of sparrows,
which destroy every Crocus as it appears above ground.

I should be very glad if your readers could let me know
the best means of getting rid of them. Is there any
means of poisoning them without risk to dogs, which
might afterwards eat the birds?—H. F. Williams, Masbro’.

12337.— Late-blooming Chrysanthemums. —
Will any reader of Gardsninq give me the names of one
or two doten of the best latest-blooming Chrysanthe¬
mums, and state how late I might in safety stop them ? I
want them to bloom about Christmas, out-of-doors. Our
climate is very mild, the mean temperature in winter
rarely falls below 46 degs.— Mknavwar, Scllly rules.

12838.—The Carrot grub.—During some of the busy
months of last summer a correspondent was advised
through your paper to use a we*k solution of saltpetre as
a preventive of or a cure for ths ravages of the Carrot
grub As I am anxious to try the cure I should like to
know what proportion of saltpetre ought to be mixed with
each gallon of water?— Leslie.

12839.—A broken agreement —Being tenant of a
large garden and obliged to change mv residence I agreed
with a person (verba ly) to ltt it at a stated sum for valua¬
tion, and gave up the keys to him. He refused, after
having possession a fortnight, to carry out the agreement.
He gave up the keys, so that the garden should be
attended to- 1 havo suffered a serious loss. What
lemody havo I ?— Market Gardener.

12640.—A plague of woodlice.—Can you or any
correspondent suggest a cure for this ? I have tried traps
of various kluds, toads, a hedgehog, also several pots with
a Potato wrapped in hay, but all of no avail. In ray
vinery if a l*oard bo laid down for a night, next morning
on turning it over there thoy are in myriads. This morn¬
ing a whitewashed closet at the back of the garden wall

was quite black with them. I have a very suitable place
for Mushrooms, but as soon as they appear they are
devoured by this pest. - J. P., near Settle.

12841.— Culture of Blackberry.— I am desirous of
trying what can be done in the way of cultivation of tho
common Blackberry, but, as this has probably been eften
tried before, should be glad of the experience or any cf
my fellow subscribers who may have attempted it. Also

1 should like to know in what locality the finest fruit can
be found, as they vary greatly in different places. Also,
is it of any use to try the American varieties ? 1 am told
they are mostly too delicate and small to thrive in a cold,
moist climate.— R. A., Bexley, Kent.

12842.—Pruning and treatment of newly-
planted Rosea.— I have about 100 Hybrid Perpetual
Roses that I planted on the 7th February. They are from

2 feet to 4 feet 6 inches high, something like strong Rasp¬
berry canes, budded beiow the ground on the M&netti.
The ground I have has been a Grass field, lately used as a
hen run. I have turned the sod in with it and some good
old stable dung. Will any reader Inform me if this tnat-
meut is right, also if I should prune them, and if so, to what
length? -Ulricr Brunner, Bradford, Yorks.

12843. — Late-flowering Chrysanthemums. -1
have read with great interest the notes on Chrysanthe¬
mums of late, especially in No. 309, page 629, where the
early-flowering sorts are mentioned ; but I do not see much
about late ones anywhere, and I think it would help a
great many beddes myself if some reader of Gardknlsu
would give a list of lace-flowering kinds. I have got one
that was in full bloom through December and January,
and it came in well for church decoration, when other
flowers were scarce. 1 should like to get some others.
The question was &9ked in the early part of this volume
by “I. G. N..” but I failed to find an ansser to it.—
Prvensbt, Hastings.

The following queries are briefly answered by
the Editor, but readers are invited to give, further
answers should they be able to offer additional
advice on the various subjects.

12844.— Table decoration.— Can you recommend
book on table decoration—floral?—R eginald Upcubr.

[Alias Hassard's—Macmillan.]

12845 — Propagating Christmas Roses.—How
should Christmas Roses be propagated—by seed, cuttings
or divided roots ?—

[By seeds and division of the crowns.]

12846 — Linneea borealis —Will the Editor tell me if
Linnsea borealis is grown in gardens; also how to grow it ?
—Orion.

[Linncn borealis may be had in nurseries where hardy
alpine and herbaceous pi mts are grown. It is hardy , easily
grown in peat border , rock, or bog garden. It is a little
slow at first, but once it “takes" runs about freely enough.]

12817.— Vegetable Marrow.— Last year I had a
quantity of Vegetable Marrow plants, they bloomed well
but did not bear Irult. Do they require impregnating ? If
so in what way ?— W. Torore.

[You may have been too late, or have treated tlum biily.
We have always known them to fruit freely without impreg¬
nation.]

12848.— Dwart Irises.—1. I have a large clump of
this little gem (I- cristata). I see it in no catalogue. Is
it rare? 2. My Iris reticulata is showing bloom—is this
early?—M rs. L.

[1. It is not rare, though not common. 2. No ; it is
flowering at its usual, time; it blooms very early in mild
sjurings.]

12849.— Splresa arise folia.— What kind of exposure
suits Spiraea ariififolia best ? Will it succeed in a damp
border facing the north?— Mrs. L., North Berwick.

[It is a perfectly hardy shrub, and in the southern connt’es
thrive* in any ordinary soil. In cold or wet localities pro¬
tection might be desirable, but wc doubt that it is necessary.
A damp border would do in some places where sr.il is light.]

12S60.—Planting out flowers.— What is the best
time of the year for planting out such flowers as Salvias,
and other more or leas tender things in the open border,
having reference to the climate and soil of south Devon ?—
—H. E. W.

[Plant out your half-hardy things in May in Devon,
unless you are in a very high or cold situation, in irhich
case you may have to wail tlU the first week in June ]

12851 .—Greenhouse and stove management.
—Would a practical gardener recommend a work on green¬
house and stove management, giving information as to the
temperature necessary to be kept up in both houses, &.,?—
F. J. P. E.

[Mr. Thomas Baines, the well-known plant grower , has
written a book which will be ready and published in the
spring. It covers the whole of ths ground, and is thoroughly
practical.]

12852.—Soil from pond — I have in my garden alarge
pond, whichis almost entirely filled up with leaves, chiefly
Poplar aod Horee-chesnut. Is this deposit any good as a
manure either on beds or laid out on meadow laud ?—
A. B. G., Ipswich.

[It is qfsomz, but not of much, value. Cleaning ou such
ponds is expensive work, and when they are ill placed and
ugly it is often better to drain and plant them, or convert
them, if possible, into a fernery, bog garden, or somsthing
prettier than many garden ponds are. 1

12853.—Hardy perennials. — I would like to havo
in my garden tome hardy perem lals, say from 2 feet to
4 feet high. Could any rtader kindly advise me what
would suit best? The garden faces south with a light
soil —O. E. W.

[In such a position you could grow nearly all the hardy
flowers that you care for. and there are scores of fine families
and many hundred subjects. Read “Hardy Flower*,"
which you can get through uny bookst'hr; or. ij you are
more umbitious. “The Enolish Flower Garden.” As Jor
your other questions, you cann >t expect to get a collection from
seed in flower the first year. You must get your collection in
turious ways, and never cease getting it together if your
pleasure is to be constant arul the remit good There is no
royal road to a good collection. You may pickup a few
things in a cottage garden, raise some from seed, buy others
in the nursery, and'exchange tins’or two with a friend.]

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT
URBANA-CHAMPAIGN .

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED.

Vol. VI. FEBRUARY 28, 1885. No. 312.

GREENHOUSE VENTILATION.

Mat I raise in Gardening the important ques¬
tion of greenhouse ventilation, which 1 am
tempted to do by the reply of “J. C. B.” to
question No. 12525, in No. 309? The object of
ventilation is to secure a free exchange of air
between the inside and outside of the house,
in order that the air in the bouse may not be¬
come stagnant, over-dried and over charged
with the vapours and gases exhaled from the
plants, and from the heating apparatus em¬
ployed, all of which will act to the detriment
of the growing plants. The air of the green¬
house will, on principles well known, be
always, by day, rather warmer, and during
the sunshine very much warmer, than the air
outside, and the warmest air will rise to the
top of the house. There is, therefore, always a
bed of foul air lying along the ridge of the green¬
house, whether lean-to or span-roofed, which it
is the primary function of good ventilation to
remove thoroughly. This can only be done
effectually by an opening along the whole length
of the roof, by which the hot air will continually
and freely pass off. This it will do when there
is free admission for the cooler and heavier
external air lower down in the house ; and this
latter is the function of front ventilation. This,

I believe, is best effected by an opening also
along the whole length of the house, but by no
means extending down the whole front sash.
On a. sunny day the “dark heat,” as it is
technically called, cannot pass freely through
the glass roof, but heats it, and this in turn heats
intensely the air in contact with the glass, and
unless this air be changed by being kept con¬
stantly in motion it will become so intensely
heated as to dry and scorch all leaves which
extend near enough to the roof to enter this
heated layer. If, on the other hand, we secure
a sharp draught along the whole surface of the
glass. we shall entirely prevent the formation
of this layer, and the air next the glass will
not be hotter than that in the rest of the house,
even when the stratum of moving air is only a
few inches thick ; while the air heated by con¬
tact with the interior walls and stages, k c., will
rise up slowly and join this current along the
roof. But will not the plants there be in a con¬
stant draught ? That it is my first purpose to
avoid, and for this reason the openings top and
bottom should never exceed 6 inches in width.
This will not affect injuriously even plants
trained on the roof, which should never be so
near the glass as this. I am sure two such
openings extending c.long the whole length will
be ample to secure perfect ventilation even in a
large house. The opening of the whole front
sash with only limited open lights above creates a
large amount of draught not confined to the
roof, and acts injuriously on all plants on the
sbages near the open sash. This it does both
by unduly drying the earth in their pots, to ths

C at danger of small roots which seek the sur-
e of the porous pots, and also by increasing
unduly transpiration (or vegetable perspiration)
from the leaves themselves.

I have long had these views as to ventilation,
but have only lately had an opportunity of
testing them. Three years ago I planned a small
greenhouse (18 feet by 8 feet) ventilated on the
lan described above, but was over ruled by my
uilder and professional garden adviser, getting
instead the customary two sash windows below
and two above. The result has been that the
plants standing opposite the lower sashes have
been dried up constantly, while the part of the
roof away from the roof sashes gets very deficient
ventilation. Laet summer I required to build
a new house somewhat larger, and having spare
time on my hands I undertook to be my own
architect and builder. It is a lean-to, 8 feet
wide, 4 feet 6 inches high in front, and about
8 feet at the back. The front I boarded (the
whole structure being wood and glass) up to
the height of 2 feet 3 inphes. On this is a glass
sash of 20 inches deepJUnd Ijdjb re tihjbj t sash

opening 5 inches wide, made in four divisions
each 6 feet long, with a 5-inch deal board
hinged on to the upper plate, which forms the
whole front ventilation, and is movable by
irons inside. The back is a repetition of the
front, except that the glass sash there rests on
the top of a wall about 6 feet high. In some of
the hot days of autumn I found that when all
ventilators were open the temperature inside
was even and pleasant, and hardly in excess of
that outside. Throughout the autumn (from
October 1 to January 20) I had the house filled,
and in the early part of that period over¬
crowded, with Chrysanthemums, which re¬
mained healthy and flowered very well, only
one about Christmas showing any trace of
mildew, which disappeared of its own accord on
removing the plant to a less crowded position.

Rugby . L. C.

HEATING SMALL GREENHOUSE.

In answer to several inquiries in respect to the
above I will give particulars of a little con¬
trivance I have been very successful with for
heating my small greenhouse, which is a lean-to,
8 feet long and 6 feet wide. I bought a small
oil-stove, for which I paid 3s. 6d., also five
2 ft. lengths of 3-inch sheet iron pipe at lOd.
per length, and two elbow joints at 8d. each.
The stove is different from Rippingil’s, as it runs

narrower at the top, which has a movable iron
ornament. I place the stove at one end near the
front of the house, having previously removed
iron ornament, and thus leaving the top of
stove open—2£ inches in diameter. Over this
1 place one elbow joint, with three lengths of
pipe along the front of the house, at the end of
which I fix the other elbow with the other two
lengths of pipe ; this goes along the end of the
house. These pipes carry the heat all round
instead of it being in one place, as it usually is
with oil stoves. I suspend the pipes with stout
iron wire hooks, which cost 2d., to the lattice
stage above. Three or four of these will be
sufficient. The Btove when filled holds about
one pint of oil, which will burn for 12 hours ;
the burner is 2 inches wide, and I can raise the
temperature 12 degs. above the outside. As
there are many amateurs like myself to whom
the outlay is a great consideration I can highly
recommend this. A. King, Islington .

12691.— Tar for woodwork.— If your correspon¬
dents get 1 gallon of gas tar and 1 pint of paraffin and mix
them together they will have as good mixture for wood¬
work as if they paid 10s. a gallon for it I keop all the
farm done with it—8. C. t Bristol.

12572. — Greenhouse smoke. — The
chimneys, especially the kitchen chimneys of
the “number of small villas” mentioned by
“Duncan,” are no doubt the offenders, and
deposit the soot on the Grass plots. The flue
of a Loughborough boiler Bhould give off but
little soot, and that little might be made less
by using some coke. So long as “Duncan”
does not wilfully smoke his neighbour, the
greenhouse may be kept up and the owner will
be “ within the law,” and cannot be made to
remove the house, or put out its fire.—J.
Pearson, Lancashire .

THE COMING WEEK'S WORK.
Glasshouses.

Perns. —See that the whole of the different
species that have now begun, or that are
aDout to begin, growth, have the soil thoroughly
moistened, or the fronds will have a crippled
appearance, and be deficient in size. Except in
the case of comparatively few species, such as
theGymnogrammas, which require a high tem¬
perature, it is a mistake to give Ferns too
much warmth, the effect i>f which is to make the
fronds long, weak, proportionately less endur¬
ing, and more liable to injury from insects.
Give manure water freely, but not in too strong
a state, to all that are under-potted, and to
which it is not deemed advisable to give more
root room. This does not apply to the creeping
stemmed kinds, which must have space to allow
their spreading rhizomes to extend, or they will
suffer permanently. Give no more shade than
is necessary to prevent scorching, with enough
air daily to solidify the growth as it is formed.
By following this course the plants will preserve
a much fresher appearance than they otherwise
would do through the latter part of the year,
consequent on the increased substance imparted
to the fronds.

Stove plants.— No time should be lost in
completing the potting of the stock generally.
Most stove plants are quick growers, and will
bear plenty of root room with large shifts, and
where the object is to have large specimens
this is the course to follow; but if the plants are
required for standing in rooms, or are to be re¬
moved to cooler quarters, such as a conservatory
during summer, the small pot system of culti¬
vation will be found most satisfactory, as under
it the restricted leaf growth will better bear the
adverse conditions under which the plants will
have to be placed. The same holds good with
regard to fine-foliaged subjects ; the smaller-
growing Caladiums, which if grown freely in
large masses are all but useless for employment
in cool places, are amongst the best decorative
plants when cultivated in small pots with
abundance of light and air, and no more heat
than is requisite to induce moderate growth.
Allamandas, Ixoras, Dipladenias, Gardenias,
Clerodendrons, Aphelandras, Francisceas, Hi-
bisous, Hoy as, Bouganvilleas, Medinillas, Jacar-
andas, Tabern a montanas, Rondeletias, Thun-
bergias, Aristolochias, iEschynanthus, and other
flowering species, together with Crotons,
Dracaenas, Aralias, Marantas, Pandanus, Musas
variegated, Pine-apples, Cupanias, and Dieffen-
bachias should at once be shifted, and room
given them proportionate to the size of the
specimens and the respective purposes for which
they are intended. See that the soil is in right
condition as to moisture. To those who have
not had much experience in plant cultivation it
may be well to say that it is better to pot in
soil that is a little too dry than the opposite.
Pot moderately fiim, but in the case of stove
plants that are partially shaken out at the
annual potting, and which have the old Boil
removed to some extent, it is not advisable, to
ram the material so tight in the pots as with
hard-wooded greenhouse stock where there is no
annual renewal in this way.

Pelargoniums. —The large-flowered and
fancy kinds should have attention in the way of
tying the shoots well out, so as to keep the
plants open and stocky. With this view they
should be placed where their heads will be close
to the glass. Those that after flowering were
cut down earliest last summer will now be
about setting their bloom-buds, and if the pots
are well filled with roots, will bear the applica¬
tion of manure water once a week ; the soil also
will do to be kept a little more moist, but any
excess in this way must be avoided. T.

Flower Garden.

Gladioli and other bulbs. —As a rule, in
sandy toil Gladioli winter lately when left in
the ground, and old-established bulbs produce

URBANA-C HAM P AIG NT

656

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 28 , 1885 .

flowers far more profusely than bulbs that are
selected and replanted annually; for effective¬
ness, give us the long established bed with its
long season of flowering and irregular heights
of the flowers. Those not so favourably located
as to soil and climate would do well to keep to
the more general plan of lifting the bulbs in
autumn and planting afresh at this season. We
are now planting out a few in clumps of five and
seven among herbaceous plants, putting them
near those kinds that will have done flowering
when the Gladioli begin, in this way maintaining
the gaiety of the border. Anemones, Ranuncu¬
luses, Lilies, SchizostyliB, &c. t are used in
exactly the same way and to the same intent;
those should now all be planted. In heavy
soils the bulbs should be placed in a handful of
sand, and the depth should be less than in light
soil, say about 2 inches deep for Ranunculuses
and Anemones, and 3 inohea for Gladioli ; but
1 inch deeper for all kinds in saudy soil may be
allowod. Lilies, of course, mu9t bo planted in
depth according to the variety and size of the
bulbs, but it may be well to remark that they
they are generally not planted sufficiently deep.

Fruit.

Hardy fruit. —In all cases where movable
screens may be adoptod, no time should be lost
in getting them fixed, as much may often be
done by shading from bright sunshine, and so
retarding the blossoms of Apricots and Peaches;
but the coddling system must be regarded as
one of the greatest evils, when perhaps there is
neither sun to force or frost to kill. On the
other hand, it will be well to avoid being lulled
into carelessness by the favourable appearance
of the early part of the night, as it is well known
that the greatest depression frequently takes
place shortly before and sometimes after day¬
break. The first important item in wall cover¬
ing is protection of the blossoms from wet by
the use of either glass or boards, and as these
checks to rapid circulation produce a dry, steady
atmosphere, the flowers near the wall are
capable of resisting several degrees of frost with
impunity. C.

Vegetables.

We are now busily engaged digging, plough¬
ing, and manuring our Potato land. The later
varieties 1 always plant before the earlier.
After planting we harrow, and, if very cloddy,
roll. Land cannot be too well cultivated for
Potatoes. I dislike the use of dibbers, preferring
to take out the drills with the plough. Plant
the Potatoes and cover in with the cultivator.
A thorough cleaning, and in many cases fresh
planting of herbs should be made at this season.
Tarragon, Tftyme, pot Marjoram, and Penny
royal may all be planted. That very useful
herb, Chamomile, miy also be parted and
planted. Mint, perhaps the moat useful of all,
should be planted in the shape of cuttings when
3 inches high. Sage does best as cuttings put
in the first week in May. Knotted Marjoram,
summer Savory, and Sweet Basil are much
sought after in early spring ; a small pinch for
using in a green state may now be sown.—R.

Forcing. —We are sowing Canadian Wonder
Beans for the last batch, and we intend growing
them in 8.^-inch pot*. Bear in mind that a
potful of healthy root* is what is required, and
not a potful of soil alone. Young plants now
showing in outlying frames should be aired
regularly to keep them sturdy and strong, but
do not be caught napping by giving air in the
morning and at night find the crop gone.
Always take time by the forelock and place a
bit of old netting over the lights, making all
safe before leaving. Seakale, Asparagus, and
Rhubarb may still be brought forward in case
of need. S.

General Work.

The late rains will have settled awaysomewhat
by this time, though we may have more before
the end of the month. But we must not, how¬
ever, wait to see if it is going to rain next week
or the week after—work, seasonable work, must
be accomplished. Next May and June we shall
look in vain for new Potatoes and first green
Peas ; for thriving beds of Onions, and gayer
beds of flowers, if we now neglect seasonable
labours. Whore heavy, strong garden Bolls
were roughly dug up last autumn, and well ex¬
posed to the weather—frost we have not
benefited from to^a^great extent—it will be

lime, or of well-decayed manure. Fresh strawy
manure is better for light, sandy soils, as it
gives more texture, and helps to keep the
fertilising ingredients together longer. Top
dressings of sandy road scrapings, or heaps of
compost or burnt rubbish, may also be worked
in to improve Btiff soil, though it would have
been better done the end of last year. Hot,
porous soils, especially those lying on gravel
sub soil, will bo greatly improved for cropping
if sub-trenched this month, giving, at the same
time, a good dose of fresh dung, and, where
practicable, throwing into the bottom all the
turf, grass roots, and similar substances at hand.
The worst fault of these soils is that they will
not long retain the elements of plant food. They
are so porous that heat, cold, wind, rain and
frost, in turns acting on them, quickly exhaust
their fertility. The aim of the cultivator then
should be to supply them with fibre, and long-
lasting materials.

Where the surface soil is near the clay and
where the water is slow to drain off, it will be
a good plan to break up the subsoil as thoroughly
as possible ; and, if convenient, to lay in a few
drains. Even Thorn bushes, trodden into open
cuttings leading to the nearest ditch, or half
bricks, cinders, or, in fact, any rough materials
buried in this way, are of great use in draining
wet and clayey soils. But by no means must
any seeds or, in fact, any permanent crop be
attempted to be got in unless the Boil is dry
enough, and will work freely. A wet clammy
seed bed is the worst that we can mention,
and is sure to cause disappointment. Better
let the ground lie than attempt to work it
when it is “ inclined to run to mortar.”

Ditches around garden hedges may be well
scoured out, and the cleanings worked into the
ground, or made up into composition with lime
and manure for autumn use. Hedges may be
repaired, filling up gaps with fresh bushes dug
from the hedgerows, where such plants can
always be found growing uselessly. By summer
the heap of turfy soil that most gardeners
gathered last autumn will have grown “ beauti¬
fully less,” and it will be useless to lament that
fact. When we have a good heap of this soil it
is surprising how fast it goes. Amateurs living
near large towns are often badly off for turfy
soil; but they may generally obtain a supply
by bargaining with any builder’s foreman, as
these men often have pieces of ground to strip
and hardly know what to do with the soil
and turf. When got in this should be well
stacked up and let alone as long as possi¬
ble—the longer it lays the more mellow
does it become. Many cottage gardeners who
keep pigs find that pig manure is too coarse and
strong for use in its fresh condition. With a
heap of pig manure, a good plan, and one that
makes useful work in early spring, is to work
into the heap a good proportion of fresh soil;
bulk for bulk will not be too much. If the pig
manure is fresh and rather strawy the heap
shonld be covered entirely over with soil, to
keep in and absorb the ammonia thrown off in
fermenting. Then, working the whole up
together and turning it two or three times, will
give a large heap of most valuable manure, fit for
immediate use for vegetables or fruit borders
Those who have bush fruit and fear an inva¬
sion of caterpillars next May should now scrape
up an inch or so of the surface soil from under
the bushes and replace with fresh, turfy soil or
that prepared as just mentioned. A sprinkling
of fresh lime over all, and a splashing over the
bushes of a mixture of soot and lime applied
with a syringe will prevent caterpillars from
approaching ; and will also act os a caution to
bullfinches and tomtits, who, if permitted, will
strip off the finest buds. R. Beale,

wait a little longer he will find his patience re¬
warded in the same way. I ought to add that both
houses stand high and are much exposed to wind.
Nothing was done to the Roses bey o ad manuring
them in the autumn, and giving manure water
in summer.—E. K. C., Shrewsbury .

12842. — Pruning and treatment of
newly-planted Roees.— You ought not to
prune your Rose trees before the end of March.
Those that are 4 feet high may be cut back to
2 feet, and those that are 2 feet in height
should bo cut back to 1 foot. Your treatment
is so far right, but as you have buried the
green sod I hope you have been careful to see
that the roots have been well fixed in the soil,
because if we get a dry spring and summer the
sod will act as drainage, and the roots of the
trees will be likely to suffer for the want of root
moisture, especially if the soil has not been well
trodden in round the roots. If you have any
doubt about that matter it is not too late now
to set it right. When the surface is dry get a
wooden rammer and ram the soil well all
round the roots, and then mulch them over
with a thick layer of half-rotten farmyard
manure. It is quito safe to bury green sods iu
the autumn, as the Grass will have time to de¬
compose before Bpring ; but as spring approaches
it is better to pare off the greensward and burn
it, throwing the ashes on the surface, and
digging them in.—J. C. C.

12S25.—Roses in pots.— The soapy water will not
injurothe roots of your Rose trees, unless you use it so
frequently as to keep the soil in the pots mturated with
it. Syringing with soapy water once a week ought to
keep away green fly. What water reaches the roots from

icn applications will do no haun.—J. C. C.

12771.—Hybrid China Roses —Although continu
ing Ion? In bloom, cornpired with many of the summer
kinds, these do not produce a secondary series of flower* ;
they cannot, therefore, in the truo seitpe of the wood, be
cilied perpctuil bloomers, and this applies also to Hybrid
Bourbons, which are of the samo race, and equally gra nd

■A. M., UY.»f Cumberland.

useful work now 1
working In wherl

b urn over,
rossing of

ROSES.

12757. — Banksia Roees. — About ton
years ago a white Banksia Rose was planted
against the south wall of our house in a border
barely 18 inches wide, with a gravel walk
beyoiul ; it grew most luxuriantly, but never
flowered until last year, when it bore m^ny
lovely clusters. I should have been tempted
to remove the Rose, if I had not remembered a
Banksia Rose doing exactly the same thing
against my father’s house ; it was a yellow one,
and grew to the top of the honsc before it
flowered at all ; after it once began it flowered
profusely year after year. If “ K. A. J.” will

OF

ILLUSTRATED DICTIONARY
GARDENING.

The Illustrated Dictionary of Gardening : a
Practical and Scientific Bncyclopcedia of Horti¬
culture for Gardeners and Botanists. Edited
by Georoe Nicholson. Loudon: L. U.
Gill, 170, Strand.

We believe that anything like a general dic¬
tionary or encyclopedia of gardening is quite
impossible if the highest kind of work is de¬
scribed, and if full particulars of important
branches are to be given. A couple of genera¬
tions ago it was possible to get a good deal
of gardening information into a cyclopedia ;
but it is not so now. Whole branches of
gardening of the highest importance have
sprung up since then, and demand important
volumes to themselves—Orchids, for example.
Then, again, when it comes to the actual cultiva¬
tion of any one plant, such as the Pelargonium,
or even some of the simple vegetables, growers
will always prefer full essays on the subject—
the information to be crammed into a cyclopaedia,
as they are nowadays organised, is not enough
for the amateur.

The book under notice, of which, up to the
present, one volume only is published, is a bold
and very successful attempt. The printing is
excellent, the illustrations and the more
technical parts very good, but we think that
practical gardening does not get its due place,
owing to the large amount of space given to
botanical nomenclature, &c. To the genus
Coditeum six pages, embellished with catalogue
cuts, are given, while there is no illustration of
the splendid, and, as we think, more important,
Allamandas. Subjects of the highest importance
(Asparagus to wit) are not brought up to the
time. Few people, even among gardeners,
have much idea of the wonderful range of
variety and the high value of the plants grouped
as Cabbages. Here they are dismissed in little
more than a page, .which is, we think, far too
little space to give to so highly important a
family. If the present work is to have any real
value for those to whom the title appeals, much
more space should be given to vegetables and
fruit culture, and to cultivation generally, but
botanically we think it will be of much value.
A more correct title to the work would be “ A
Dictionary of Gardeniag Plants but even if
this were the aim and title of the work we
should still say that quite an undue place is
IgffitaiBnoio merely technical maiter interesting
to the pedant mind onlyj | q ^

Veb. 28 , 1885 .]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

657

TREES AND SHRUBS.

VARIETIES OF LAURUSTINU3.

The Laurnstinus (Viburnum Tinus) ia an old
and common shrub in our gardens ; and, where
the climate ia sufficiently mild, it is still one of
the handsomest daring the winter and spring
months, aa it commences to flower towards the
end of autumn, and continues in bloom for a
long time. In such a climate aa that experi¬
enced around London, the frosts render its
flowering a matter of uncertainty; yet, apart
from that consideration, it is a pretty evergreen
shrnb, in no wise particular as to soil, provided
it be not too hot or sandy, and it always repays
a sheltered position. Its appearance is well
known, and need not be described, but there
are some purposes to which it may be, and yet
seldom is, applied, of which I now propose to
speak. For greenhouse or conservatory decora¬
tion during the winter months it is very useful,
as it needs but slight protection, and is ex¬
tremely florifcrous, even in a small state. Thus it
will be seen that the Laurustinus can scarcely be
included among the shrubs for forcing, as it is
only a case of flowering at its proper season ;
yet it will bear a day temperature of . r >0 degs.
daring the winter with advantage. Its value
as a decorative subject is now extensively
recognised by some of the Continental growers,
who cultivate it largely ; and during the last
two or three seasons pretty little bushes or
standards of Belgian origin might have been
seen in some of the London florists’ shops. In
most cases they are profusely laden with bloom,
lighter in colour than when out of doors—in
deed, many are quite white.

The propagation must be effected by means
of cuttings, layers, or suckers, and not by seeds,
as plants raised in that way are not so floriferous
as the others. Cuttings strike easily, especially
if protected by a frame ; and when sufficiently
rooted they may be either potted or planted
out. When in good soil, the young plants make
the most rapid progress by this latter method,
and soon form sturdy little bushes. If
any of them are inclined to grow straggling,
the points of the long shoots should be
pinched out to cause them to break out
again; or those with vigorous shoots may
be trained up to form standards, after the
Continental manner. For this purpose the
plants should be grown in an open and sunny
rather than a sheltered spot, to insure flori
ferousneas, and when potted up early in the
autumn, must be kept rather close and shaded
till root action recovers from the check. After
this they may may bo either planted out every
season, or kept in pots or tubs as the caBe may
be. If the latter they should be plunged during
ths summer, and attended to in the matter of
water at that time ; while if full of roots a little
weak manure water at times will be beneficial.
It may be thought that all this entails a great
deal of labour, but it is quickly done ; and plants
grown in this way form pretty symmetrical little
specimens for small pots, and this is not the
case if they are taken up from the shrub¬
beries or borders without preliminary prepara¬
tion, although large bushes may be dug up,
potted, or tubbed, and will flower all the winter.
Another purpose to which it may be put is for
covering low walls, the foliage being green and
cheerful, while the protection of the wall will
be beneficial to the flowers, The Laurustinus
differs a good deal in individual plants. A
marked variety is lucidum, which ia of more
spreading habit than the common kind, with
fewer branches and much larger leaves. These
latter are quite glabrous and shining, and very
handsome, but the flowers are not produced so
freely as in the ordinary type. There is also a
sub-variety of this with variegated foliage. The
leaves of the variety hirtum are very rough and
hairy. In colour they are blackish green. This
ia the hardiest of all, and is free both in growth
and blossoms. The white flowered (album) is
sometimes spoken of, but the colour varies a
good deal, according to the conditions under
which the flowers are produced. Another
feature is added to the plant during summer,
when the blossoms are succeeded by berries of
a deep blue colour. As soon as the young
growth acquires a moderately wooded texture
it form3 the beat cuttings—Jdjat is, if a f|ame
can be spared ; but if put iifthe open
wood must be well ripenco L

OUTDOOR PLANTS.

BALEARIC OR MAJORCA SANDWORT.

(ARENARIA BALEARICA.)

This is one of the most delightful little plants
we have—an alpine, and yet easy to grow in
any garden, and clinging to a stone as a child
does to its mother. VVe cannot do better, per¬
haps, than quote the following with reference
to it from “Alpine Flowers” :—

“ This coats the face of rocks and stones with
the dwarfest Thyme-like verdure—clothes them
with living beauty as the Ivy does the moulder¬
ing tower, and then scatters over the green
mantle countless little starry flowers on Blender
Btalks a little more than an inch long. I write
this sitting on a rock to which its tiny carpet
clings closer than the dwarfest Moss.
Beneath some rocks fall to the water ; it has
crept over the edge of these, and dropped
its little mantle of green down to within
18 inches of the water, but all the flowers look
up from the shade to the light. Right and left
there are boulders in all sorts of positions, on
every face of which it may be seen, as every
tiny joint roots against the face of the rocks,
and the minute mat of leaves is so dense that

w ,.,

^ "-too •

Balearic sandwort in hole in wall.

enough of moisture is preserved to sustain the

plant. To establish it on the stones, plant
firmly in any common soil near the stones or
rocks you wish it to cover, and it will soon
approach and begin to cloth them. Flowers in
spring and continuously, and is readily in¬
creased by division or seeds, and quite easy to
grow on most soils. On cold ones it sometimes
perishes in winter, bat its true home is on the
rockwork. It is easily known at any season by
its dense tufted cushions of very small leaves.
A native of Corsica.”

To show how true the above description is
we may mention that since it was written we
have found the plant growing iu a hole in a wall
at Great Tew, about 10 feet from the ground,
where the seed had been blown by the wind or
carried by a bird. There should be no difficulty
in getting the plant from any nursery where
herbaceous or alpine plants are grown ; and it
increases so freely that it is easy for thoso who
grow it to be generous with it.

WHITE FLOWERS FOR CUTTING.

In addition to **J. G.V* tolerably compre¬
hensive list, January 17th, page 5S0, there are
a few that are extremely useful. The white
varieties of Scilla campanulata and Scilla nutans
are graceful and pretty. The early White
Dutch Honeysuckle, though not a good white,
especially in dry sunny springs, comes in well
in bouquets, and its perfume iB useful. Pyre-
thrums are indispensable, there being no flower
at all like them in bloom so early. There are
many good white kinds. White English and

Spanish Iris are beautiful flowers for cutting,
and last much longer when cat than they do on
the plant if they are ent as soon us they expand
and kept out of the sun afterwards. R&nnnonlus
aconitifoliua plenus (Fair Maids of France) has
flowers very similar to those of the double
Feverfew, but flowers in May. White Cam¬
panulas of all kinds, double and single, are
useful, and especially the double peach-leaved
bell flower.

The White Cslycjnthema variety of Can ter-
bury Bell is a beautiful cut flower, one single
bloom of it being quite good enough for a button¬
hole.

The tiny stars of Gypsophila paniculata are
very useful; also the White Cornflower
(Centaurca Cyanua). White annual Larkspurs
are very useful, some of the semi-double Cande¬
labrum plants giving sprays which carry their
flowers in a very picturesque way. Navelwort
is a very pretty annual, which will flower a
second time from self-sown seed. The flowers
are in upright spikes, and are like large white
Forget-me-nots. Pots of this might be grown
in a greenhouse. White German Scabious is a
capital flower for cutting ; plenty of blooms aro
produced for a considerable period. White
Perennial Phloxes are very good for filling up,
and the early or suifruticosa section gives
flowers good enough for any purpose, especially
in cool, cloudy seaBonB. White Sweet \N illianis
give small side trusses, which are useful, and
have the advantage of having very firm stems.

J. D.

SOME SELECT HARDY PERENNIALS.

I have been much interested with the notes on
hardy flowers that have appeared in Gardening
from timo to time, more especially those by
Mr. Sweet and Mr. Neve. Having grown a con¬
siderable collection of herbaceous plants for
some years in a very cold and elevated district
of North Oxfordshire, I will, with your per
mission, give my experience of a few varieties
that do well here.

AcniLLEA ptarmica fl.-pl.— A very hand
some plant producing numerous small double
white (lowers in bunches; it will grow in any
soil or position. It is very useful for cutting,
and perfectly hardy ; height, 2 feet.

Aster amkllus major. —This is a very showy
kind, about 2 feet high, of a pale blue colour,
with yellow centre, does well in any soil or
situation. It is an excellent plant for late
summer and autumn, and is fine for cutting.

Campanula fersicifolia alba-plena is a
vigorous perennial, growing in good soil, from
to J feet in height. It produces numerous
fine double white flowers, somewhat resembling
a Camellia, very good for catting. It has been
very fine with me this last summer.

Campanula Van Houttei is a beautiful
hybrid, growing about 1J to 2 feet high, with
very large deep blue flowers freely produced.
It is a capital border plant.

Coreopsis lanckolata is, I consider, one of
the finest perennials in cultivation, flowering
throughout the summer. The colour is bright
yellow, the floweis are about 2 inches across on
slender stems ; height, 2 to 3 feet. It requires
light, well-drained soil, and any position appears
to suit it. It is excellent for cutting.

Dianthus barbatus maonificus fl.-pl.—A
charming dwarf plant for the front of a border.
It produces abundantly large compact trusses
of rich crimson flowers; is very showy and useful;
bat a stock should be kept up by cuttings as
the old roots often die away after flowering.

Geranium sylvaticum fl. pl. is a very hand
some species of a vigorous habit, growing into
a compact bnsh about 3 feet in height, and aa
mnch across. It bears an immense quantity ot
double purplish blue flowers, which last a con
sidersble time. Will grow in any ordinary soil,
and is a very fine perennial for the border.

Gypsophila taniculata.—A very beautiful
herbaceous plant, forming a symmetrical bush
about 3 feet high, and nearly as much through.
The flowers are white, very small, but exceed
ingly numerous, and produced on wiry stems. It
has a very elegant anpcaronce, and is altogether
a charming plant. It does fine with me every
season, and is invaluable for bouquets; it
requires a dry, sunny position. .

Lychnis chalcedonica fl -pl.— This is a
fine pe ! refini&T : bf, a brilliant scarlet 'colour,

and very fjtPA K3F.T ° r

658

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

(Feb. 28 , 1885 .

6 feet high, and has a very showy effect in a
border. The blooms last much longer than the
single kind, and it is altogether a better variety.

Lychnis viscaria splkndens pl. is a capital
plant, about 1 foot in height, producing
numerous bright, rose-coloured flowers (some¬
what like a double rocket) in early summer ; it
is very hardy, and will grow in any soil.

CEnothera Fraseri is one of the best of the
evening Primroses. It is of a light yellow colour,
about 1£ feet high, and is good for cutting
purposes. It is perfectly hardy, and a very
showy plant for a border, continuing a long
time in bloom.

(Enothera eximia (marglnata) is a splendid
dwarf white variety ; the flowers are very
large, and are deliciously scented ; it is of a
creeping habit, and does well in light, rich soil.

Rudbbckia Newmanni is one of the finest
autumn flowering plants grown. It is quite
hardy, and is very effective in a mass. The
flowers are bright yellow, with dark centre,
and the plant grows about 3 feet high in good
soil; very useful for cutting.

Primcla rosea. —A very choice plant of a
brilliant rose colour ; it is a perfect gem, and
will grow in any ordinary soil, but prefers a
cool, moist position, where it soon makes a
strong clump.

Senecio pulcher. —With regard to this
plant, I may observe that having grown it for
a number of years, I have not been very suc¬
cessful in getting it to bloom, although I have
tried it in various positions ; but it appears to
do best when thoroughly established in a very
sunny aspect in light well-drained soil. My
plants, which were on a west border, made very
tine growth last season, but scarcely any of them
flowered. It is, without doubt, a very shy
bloomer under the most favourable circum¬
stances.

Delphinium nudicaule does very well with
me on light, rich soil, with plenty of sand
or grit mixed with it. Slugs are a great enemy
of this and other Delphiniums. I find that one
or two good dressings of soot in early spring is
an excellent thing, as it not only prevents slugs
from destroying them, but is beneficial to the
plants also.

Plumbago larpent^e I also find a very shy
plant to bloom. It requires, I think, a very
warm situation.

I agree with Mr. Neve as to the merits of
Veronica longifolia var. subsessilis. It is of a
capital dwarf habit, the flower spike is long
and very handsome. I consider it the finest of
all the herbaceous Veronioas.

Lithospermum prostratum is of very slow

f rowth with me, but it blooms freely enough,
t should have some peat or leaf-mould mixed
with the ordinary soil, which muBt be well
drained.

Chipping Norton . J. Cojper.

SOWING PRIMULA SEED.

Many are unsuccessful in their endeavours to
get their Primula seed to grow. The reasons
are the smallness of the seeds and the length and
the irregularity of the time after the sowing
that they take to germinate. If the following
expedient be resorted to I think many who have
hitherto been unfortunate with their Primula
seeds will be rewarded with perfect success.
After sowing the seeds in a seed pan in the way
often advised in Gardening, get a square box
about 1£ inches wider than the diameter of the
top of the pan, and put into it enough ch an
ashes from under the fire-grate, so that the pan
can be sunk into it up to the rim. Well wet the
ashes. After sinking the seed pan into the wet
ashes cover it with glass and also place glass
over the top of the box. As soon as seedlings
begin to appear take the glass from off the seed-
pan and remove the box with the pan to a place
where the young seedlings can have as much
light as possible, still keeping the glass on the
box. As soon as enough seedlings have appeared,
and it is considered advisable to make arrange
ments for their full advantage in preference to
that of those which have yet to come, take the
glass from off the box but preserve the proper
moisture of the mould in the pan by keeping
the ashes wet in the box. The advantages of the
plan are—first, that it preserves a state of mois¬
ture in the atmosphere around the pan favour¬
able to the germination of the seeds ; secondly,
that by cansinjLthf {m|>at. ip,H 3 pass through

the porous Bubstance of the pan from without
inwards, instead of allowing it to pass from within
outwards, as it would do if it were merely placed
on the shelf of the greenhouse, it prevents the
necessity of disturbing the seeds by watering.
I am aware that many obviate this necessity by
placing the pan in water and allowing moisture
to arise by capillary action ; but this latter plan
has this disadvantage, that while the earth in
the centre of the pan is sufficiently moist that
near the outside is apt to get too dry by the
absorption of the substance of the pan, and
during dry weather this sometimes occurs sooner
than one reckons upon. L. C. K.

Newport, I.W.

CAMELLIAS OUTDOORS IN WALES.
The more I speak of them the more am I as¬
tonished that Camellias are not planted every¬
where as evergreens and as free growing effec¬
tive flowering shrubs. All who think them
tender are mistaken; on the contrary, they are
as hardy as Laurels and grow as freely. Some
may say that the climate of Wales is a mild one,
but the geniality of the Welsh climate is more
imaginary than real; the incessant rains and
cold winds which we frequently experience are
most distressing. Frost, too, comes sometimes
severe enough to check and cut back even
Laurels themselves, but I have never seen
Camellias injured—a fact worth noting. Here
they grow in the form of bushes, and if sheltered
from wind succeed better in this style than
against a draughty wall. Pretty they no doubt are
as wall plants, but they are much more so as
graceful evergreen bushes. As to when to plant,
I should say April and May. Ordinary sized
pot plants are the most suitable for turning out.
If previously grown in a greenhouse they must
be hardened off before being taken outside
altogether, and they ought to be planted when
the leaf-buds are bursting, and just before any
young leaves are fully expanded. Holes should
be formed a good deal larger than the ball of
roots, and into these a quantity of mixed-up
peat, loam, and a little sand should be put;
then plant, but do not disturb the roots. Put
plenty of the compost just described over, under,
and round them, and they will soon find their
way into it. Until they have a firm hold of the
soil the tops should be staked, and when dry
weather follows the planting the roots should
have frequent deluges of water. The leaves
should never wither or fall off, and they will
not do so if carefully planted. In my opinion
Camellias are hardy enough to grow anywhere,
but in windy situations and unfavourable spots
the blooms are apt to be blemished, and to
avoid this as much as possible is my reason for
planting in sheltered positions. Anyone having
large Camellia plants in pots or tubs which
have become too large for their houses should
plant them out-of-doors. Two years ago we had
to deal with a large plant of this kind, and now
it is in much finer condition than we ever saw it
previous to being placed out. Cambrian.

Helenium grandiflorum.— Mr. Wolly
Dod says the name Grandiflorum does not
properly belong to the Helenium of which 1
spoke at page 6*27, and, on seeing a plant of it,
he is still of the opinion that it is not H.
autumnale, var. grandiflorum of A. Gray. He
has kindly sent to me the form he grows under
that name, and, whatever the flowers may
prove, the plant—so much of it as at present
can be seen—as well as the root habit, is
different from my plant. As a matter of fact,
the species autumnale isvariable. The form to
which I referred, at least, is worthy of the
name. I spoke of it some time ago in the
Garden, when Mr. Thompson wrote me claiming
it as one of his introductions under that name.
Whatever its true name and place may be
botanically, for the garden border it is by far
the best Helenium I ever grew or saw. The
heads are large, the rays well spread and of a
bright golden colour, and even the disc florets
are much brighter than in most varieties.—J.
Wood, Woodville , Kirkstall .

Daisies on lawns.—I cleared a lawn,
literally covered with Daisies, by the frequent
use of not very strong liquid manure ; old
chamber slops let down with water are the best.
It should not be applied in bright sunshine, nor
in very dry weather. For want of better means
1 UBed a watering can ; and the lawn was mown

every week or ten days, according to growth.
The soil was open and poor, and the climate
decidedly damp. The Grass soon took the place
of the Daisies, and next season the state of the
lawn was very satisfactory.—S. J. E.

P run us myrobalana as hedging.—
Through a notice in Gardening, I have recently
planted some Cherry Plum (Prunus myroba¬
lana). I had some little difficulty in getting
it, as three out of seven firms to whom L
applied were either “ sold out ” or could not
supply the stuff, and the prices quoted by others
varied considerably. I should be glad to know
whether any of your readers have practical
acquaintance with its qualities as a hedging
instead of white Thorn ; whether it is commonly
used in any part of England ; whether it is a
foreign importation, and how it is raised ? I
think that 1 saw some in a hedge on Riddles-
down, in Surrey, but am not sure. —Sylvan us.

REPLIES.

12625.—Pansies. —If “Amateur” will look
at Gardening for Sth November, No. 296, he
will find there a nearly complete list of the
very best Pansies grown, which were the prize-
takers at the great shows in Scotland last year,
so that the stamp of success is on them all, and
not local taste or personal love for any
favourites merely. Belgian or fancy Pansies
are called Scotch, because the culture of these
lovely gems has long been keenly undertaken
by Scotchmen, and the great majority of the
newest and best are of Scotch birth, though of
Belgian blood. The climate, colder and more
humid than that of England, suits Pansies. In
the south partly shaded beds of cool soil, stiff
rather than sandy, will give good flowers, as a
light soil is quickly dried up by hot sunshine,
so that the trouble becomes serious. — A.
Sweet.

- In “ J. D. E.’a” reply to the above

question, he states that many of the improved
varieties have been raised in Scotland, as many
or more perhaps in England. Would “ J. D. E.”
kindly inform me through your columns of the
names of the raisers and the nurserymen who
put them out, or the names of the “many or
more ” improved varieties of Pansies raised in
England ?— A Scotch Pansy Grower.

12853.—Hardy perennials.— I have just
such another border as “G. E. W.” describes,
and in it are planted Roses, Phloxes, Delphi¬
niums, Hepaticas, Paxmies, Anemones, Cam¬
panulas, Chrysanthemums, Lilies of the Valley,
Gladioli, Christmas Roses, Irises in variety,
Liliums, Lupines, Lobelia fulgens, Pentstemons,
Foxgloves, Evening Primroses, Wallflowers,
Spiraeas, Veronicas, Poppies, Pinks, and Daisies.
In the spring I sow a few annuals, such as Sun¬
flowers, Everlastings, Asters, Convolvulus,
Larkspur, Mignonette, and if I have any
bedding-out plantB to spare I put a few in the
border. The result is one blaze of colour all
the spring, summer, and autumn months. I
hope “G. E. W.” will find some plants to suit
him out of this long list.—C. F. D., Lethtrhcad.

12551.—Dwarf annuals with varie¬
gated foliage.— Carpet bedding has lostcaste ;
but there is no objection to some of the simple

E hases. For instance, a carpet of Mignonette
eneath a group of Fuchsias or other such like
graceful habited plants is always pleasing.
The following plants may be raised from seed
sown now ; sow under glass in a gentle warmth,
prick off, and grow on in a frame : Amaranthus
bicolor, Golden Feather, Tagetes signals
pumila, Centaurea candidissima. Cineraria
maritima, Chanuepuce Cassabona?, C. diacantha,
Perilla nankinensis, Mesembryanthemum cor-
difolium variegatum, Cerastium tomentosnm,
Echeveria secunda glauca, Oxalis rubra (I do
not recommend this, for it is so difficult to get
rid of when one gets tired of it). Among dwarf
flowering plants which may easily be raised
from seeds are Lobelias and Musk. Nearly all
plants used for this purpose will require pinch
ing and trimming to keep them within bounds.
—E. Hobday.

12470.—Annuals for cutting.— Stock#,
Asters, Dahlia (single White Queen), white
Sweet Peas, white and others Pinks, white
double Poppies (cut in a bud state when the
flowers are on the point of opening, are very
showy for large glasses), white Canterbury
.Bolls, Mignonette, Pyrethrums f blanche and
i other light-coloured sorts in plenty), Lilium

R BATJA - C RAM PA! GN

Feb. 28, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

659

candidum, white Japanese Anemone, Gladiolus
(the Bride), Christmas Rose, Lily of the Valley,
Phlox (herbaceous variety) Pyrethrum uligino-

sum, Paris Daisies, Spir.ea aruncus, and S.
Japonica.—E. Hobday.

1274S.— Plants for town.—I find double
red and white Daisies, Wallflowers, Pinks, and
Carnations do well in a London garden, and from
April or May till August there are plenty of
flowers to be had ; unless the garden is very
much shaded, all the bedding plants do well. I
was not successful with Sweet Peas—they were
very stunted, and did not flower well. Harri¬
son’s Giant Musk does well in shade. Orange
Lilies did well with me last year; but my garden
is very damp and cold in the winter, getting no

sun, so I don’t know whether they will do well
a second year.—L. D.

- Assuming your description to be correct,

you will have to fall back largely upon foliage
for effect. Most suitable plants are : Yellow
Pyrethrum, for dwarf edging ; also try Lobelia,
Echeveria, or House-leek, Stonecrop, London
Pride, Chrysanthemums, double Dahlias, and,
if you have a fairly sunny position, Lantanas.
Of annuals sow Mignonette, in patches, about
the first or second week in March ; thin out to
3 inches apart. Convolvulus minor is likely to
suit also. Fuchsias, Heliotropes, yello w Calceo¬
larias, also Mimulus are worth a trial. You
could not raise Sweet Peas from seed. These
can be had from Covent Garden market already
blooming and staked in pots, which might be
kept in a growing state for a time. Plunge the
pots and remove all seed pods to prolong their
period of bloom. Hardy ferns should be tried.
By all means plant out the roots in early spring,
before the fronds have started into growth. A
plant or two of Sedum Aizoon, var., completes
the list.—A. E. A., Stamford hill.

1*2758. — Planting out Pansies. — The
best time to dip your Pansies in a solution of
soft soap is when planting out in spring. It
is the leaves only that should be immersed. If
they are at all dirty it would be better to
Byringe them over with a weak solution of
soft soap twice at intervals of a week before
planting. They will do best in the new ground
you are going to turn over ; but it would have
been much better if you had turned it over early
in the autumn, and manured it well with old cow
manure.— A Scotch Pansy Grower.

-Dip the plants in soft soapy water to kill green fly,

but not the roots. They will clo well in ground that wa«
dug up and manured in November last. They would,
perhaps, fail if planted on an old Gras* plot which is not

S et dug in. There is also a probability of wireworm
eing in the Gras* plot, which would kill many of the
Pansies by eating into and up the centre of the stems.—
J. D. E.

12733.— Slug Posts. —There is no remedy
which will at once rid your garden of these.
The effect of strong salt water would be nullified
after a few showers. These nocturnal marauders
are only to be kept under successfully by
repeated applications of soot and dry cinder
ashes, which should be placed around the roots
of plants likely to be attacked. The slug in¬
variably fights shy of anything that will stick
to his slimy jacket. Hence the above should
be applied after rain. A small muslin bag filled
with powdered lime and attached to a stick will
be found useful for dusting over them. Any
fat from the kitchen spread upon cabbage leaves
is a good trap. Place these on the ground with
the greased surface undermost.—A. E. A.,
Stamford Hill .

- I find the beat way to trap slugs is freah bran

covered with a Cabbage leaf and on that a small pot. Last
Bpring I kil ed many thousands in this way, always, If
poesible, visiting the traps at sunrise. —Tawi, Ecut Glouces¬
tershire.

12762.— Gutting back yellow Broom —A good
time to cut hack any such plants as these is when they
are about to start into growth. It ought to be done this
month.—.1. D. E.

12836. — Destroying sparrowa.—I have saved my
Crocuses so far by taking little sticks a foot high and tying
some malting to the top of these and putting it above the
Crocuses. A gardener told me bird* would not peck under
a string. Sparrows are so useful in destroying garden
peats that it Is a pity to destroy them.—E. P., London.

12677.—Chrysanthemuma for London gar¬
den. —Twelve of the best early-flowering plants will be
Scarlet Gem, Captain Webb (pink), Hendersonl (orange),
Fred Pele (bright red), Jardin de* Plantes, or Pr6cocit6

S cllow), Lyon (deep rose), Mme^Pidbul (purple), SoiTvcnir
e M. Rampont (red), Lo LuxenJhurg (jagte bn tuzei,

C. Desgrange and Souvenir q’ A j ildsfti .toy._ go imve
them in blossom early, and especially in LoitioJ, they
should tot be nipped back at all.—J. P. f Lancasfivre.

FRUIT,

RICHD. GILBERT’S PRACTICAL PAPERS
ON FRUIT & VEGETABLE CULTURE.
Thf. Strawberry.

There is no summer fruit so delicious, so
wholesome, nor so useful as Strawberries.
The threo great essentials to grow good Straw¬
berries are to dig the ground deeply, to manure
it heavily, and to plant early. I shall divide
my subject under four heads—the preparation
of the land, the varieties to be planted, the
raising of the plants, and the manner of
planting.

Site.— There is no place that pleases me so
well as an old Seakale bed, where the land has
sucked up the juice of the manure that the Sea-
kale has been forced with. Should the amateur
have such a site very little manure will be re¬
quired. Beginning on one side of the land,
take out a trench ‘2 feet deep—that is to say, if
the good soil is deep enough ; if not, trench to
the bottom of the soil. This work should be
done in July, so that all should bo ready for
planting by the middle of August.

Varieties to grow.— Forty years’ ex¬
perience in the clayey soils of Sussex, and the
blowaway sands of Surrey, down to the rich
loams of the Midland counties, has shown me
that all soils will grow Strawberries to the highest
perfection, so that none need trouble respecting
the soil. A very great point is for the amateur
to note accurately what kinds do the best in his
own locality. The kinds I find to do best hero
are as follows The earliest is the Burghley
President, for mid-season Sir Charles Napier,
and for the latest of all Oxonian. The latter
kind is a variety that, if planted on north
borders, will add greatly to the dessert at a
time when most people’s Strawberries are over.
Laxton’s two new seedling Strawberries, King
of the Earlies and Captain (the latter a noble
fruit), will doubtless come to the front; but
amateur gardeners, who look at “£ s. d.,”will,
no doubt, prefer the more moderate-priced and
better known varieties at present.

Ratsing the plants. —My system is to
layer the runner in small 60-sized pots ; still
moro economical, small pieces of turf about
3 inches square will answer the purpose. Before
the plants are laid on the turf it should be
scalded, so as to kill the Grass. Each runner
muBt be held fast in its place by a small flat
stone, and the plants carefully watered. This
work should be done immediately the runners
are ready. In three weeks they will be grown
into fine bushy little plants, and in the best
condition for planting.

Manner of planting.— The site being all
dug and nicely pulverised by the action of the
weather, first give the land a rough rake over ;
then tread it firmly, set your line at one side of
the piece, and all will be ready for the reception
of the plants, whioh should bis planted at 2 feet
apart all ways. Take care to break the joints
in planting—that is, to plant them in the angle.
Provide yourself with a good trowel and a
small hand-rammer. In planting take care
that the eyes of the plants are on a level with
the soil. Ram the soil well round the plants,
and give them a good watering. Should the
weather get very dry water twice a week.
Do not give any dribbles, but give enough to
thoroughly soak the soil down to the roots. I
may be told the trouble is too great ; but I give
my word that if done in the manner which I
have tried to describe, all will be duly satisfied
with the result. In conclusion, I may add
that when Strawberries are planted on this
system, I have counted 370 flowera on one
plant, the first season of planting, and for
quality no season is like the first one.

Melons grown without heat.— It would
have been well if Mr. Wollaston (Jan. 31) had
mentioned for how mauy years he has tried
his plan, and how many Melons he gets from
each plant; and if, instead of saying when he
cut his last Melon, he had given the date of the
first. My experience of late grown Melons is
that they are very inferior to those which are
sun-ripened in July and August. The following
account was given me many years ago by Mr.
Bond, a surgeon in large practice at Stoke
Newington, where he died at an advanced age
a f w years back. He was an enthusiastic
e .-. r, and produced a wonderful amount of

fine fruit and vegetables, though his garden was
small and much enclosed. He was my mentor
when I removed here from London, especially
as regards fruit trees, in the management of
which he was very skilful. Hearing that 1
intended to grow Melons, he sent me the follow¬
ing memorandum:—“Now, for a good many
years (because in a small garden the wheeling in
of manure is dirty, and littery, and trouble¬
some) I have grown my second crop of Melons
without any bottom-heat, and I find the fruit
quite equal in flavour to that of the earlier
Melons that are more petted and coddled, and
the plants, if there be a difference, more pro¬
ductive. My plan, a very simple one, is as
follows : In the last week of April, or the first
week of May, I throw roughly into each frame
the needful amount of mould—good stiff loam,
with a little well-rotted manure mixed with it.
I shut up closely through the day, and at night,
directly the sun is off the frame, I cover up with
warm clothing as carefully as if the plants were
already there. Thus I go on for ten or twelve
days, only I am careful to turn up the soil
afresh every morning, so as to expose a new
surface daily to the sun. I then put out the
plants, and pleasant it is to see how they thrive
and speed. Indeed, anyone who would take
the trouble to ascertain with his hand how great
an amount of heat is thus stored up, would well
understand their satisfaction with the quarters
they have got into.” Having only one frame
which I coaid devote to Melons, I have not been
able to adopt the plan, but I can testifiy to Mr.
Bond’s success, and have grown Melons from
seed saved by him.—W. M. C., Clapton.

Apple storing.— In your article, Jan 31st, you
Bay something might be done to keep Apples bettor. For
many years I kept Apples good until the middle of May
by simply' graving them a9 we do Potatoes—say one to
two bushels in a grave—leaving a straw chimney to allow
heat to escape.—L. M.

REPLIES.

12829.— Fig trees In Essex.— Your Fig
tree has probably a great deal too much wood ;
all unnecessary wood should be got rid of by
disbudding and stopping the fruit-bearing shoots
at the end of August. This stopping will
induce the formation of fruit for the next
season. Do not stop the tree before the end of
August or it will cause a too early development
of fruit, which will not stand through the frost
of the winter. The fruit for next year Bhould
not be larger than a Pea when winter sets in.
Also take care that the soil is well drained and
not too rich. A Fig tree I had in my garden in
Hampshire used to have beautiful Figs, and I
think it was mainly owing to the stopping and
pinching process.—C. F. D.

125C7.— Pomegranate. —The Pomegranate
flowers on the young wood, and the growth
should not only be strong but well ripened to
induce flowers to come. Planted out in a light
conservatory it will flower, and in a tine season
it flowers freely enough in warm corners on a
wall on the west coast. The pruning should be
confined to thinning out the wood or the cutting
away of an old shoot to make room for a young
vigorous one. The treatment that will produce
strong young wood and ripen it will also
produce flowers.— E. Hobday.

12570.— Large Pear trees.— The trees
have got into a sluggish condition through deep
rooting, and want waking up. Would it be
possible to get at the roots and lift their
extremities, at tho same time adding new soil
and manure ? A severe pruning, by infusing
new life into them, might have good results,
especially if the roots were seen to about a year
after the pruning was done. Heading down a
considerable distance and regrafting, accom¬
panied by some help to the roots, will probably
have the desired effect. Try thinning out the
branches now.— E. Hobday.

12S23.— Walnut trees.— If the trees make
a good growth root pruning will do no good ;
and if they do not make sufficient growth it
will be better to give the surface over the roots
a rich dressing of farmyard manure to induce
them to do so. It is more probable that your
trees—or rather the young nuts—are injured by
late spring frost, as that is not an unusual
occurrence. If that is the case you had better
plant young trees in a more sheltered situa-

tion.-yWtV<ERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT

12816. —Molcn 3- —*tH. -P. M.” will find Incomparable
(green flesh), Mnlverir Hall (scarlet flesh), and SUltari(green
all delicimi^lv-flavoured Melons.—C. F. D.

GGO

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 28 , 1886 .

ORCHIDS FOR EVERY GARDEN.—II.

I do not know whether the oool house Orchids
are more easily grown than those in the Cattleya ,
house or the East India house. Given the real
requirements of the plants in each case, and
these being understood, perhaps there is not
much difference. The cool house possesses this
ad vantage over the others, that it requires very
little artiff cial heat to keep up the temperature.
In a previous article the form of house was
described. I would now state how it ought to
be furnished, and the treatment the plants re¬
quire afterwards. Mr. K. F. imThurn, the well-
known explorer of British Guiana, has ascended
the elope of the Roraima mountain to a height
of 6,000 feet. It must have been very delightful
in the cool mountain air. He says it was “ a
very garden of Orchids, and of most beautiful
and strange plants." There is, indeed, no limit
to the extent of mountain and forest that may
yet be opened to the exploration of collectors.

make their first attempt at growth. They
are not repotted until the first pseudo bulbs
are formed and ripened, and they show
signs of starting to grow again. This is
the best time to repot. The pots used should
be one size larger than those in which the plant
made its growth : large shifts are a serious error
in culture. Let the pots be quite clean, and be
filled to rather more than half their depth with
clean drainage; broken pots form the beat
drainage. Let large hollow pieces be placed at
the bottom, the Bmaller pieces being near the
top. Over the drainage place a layer of sphag¬
num ; this should also he washed, and the weeds
ought to be picked out from it. The compost,
or potting material, must be formed cf brown
fibrous turfy peat and sphagnum in equal pro¬
portions ; to this should be added a good
sprinkling of broken charcoal and potsherds.
The time of potting is not very important. I
have potted Odontoglossums during every month
in the year, and they have succeeded well,

we cannot take the trouble to repot all the
plants just as they are starting to grow. We
begin at one end of the house in the spring,
or early in summer, and repot every plant that
has its pots well filled with roots, or any in
which the compost has become sour through
any cause whatever. Those that do not require
repotting are surface dressed, and we manage
it so that some live sphagnum is planted on the
surface, and this is encouraged to grow over the
nodules of turfy peat and bits of charcoal,
Ac. The leaves are also sponged over with
soft soapy water before we begin to repot.
Thrips, green fly, and even red spider will
attack the plants. The only way to get rid of
these pests is to wash the leaves with soapy
water. This must be done carefully, to avoid
bruising the leaves. Green fly gets on the
flower-spikes in an early stage of their growth,
and cripples them sadly. It does not answer to
fumigate the house with Tobacco smoke, as
this sometimes does considerable damage to the

Uutil the cool Orchid house became an indis¬
pensable addition to every well-ordered garden
these cool mountain Orchids could not be culti¬
vated. This may be the right place to say a
few words on the culture of Odontoglossums ;
and as I write more especially for those who
have had little experience in gardening matters,
and none at all in the culture of Orchids, it may
be as well to condescend to the more minute
details. All the Odontoglossums may be culti¬
vated in pots. I would not advise the intending
cultivator to go to an Orchid sale for his plants.
The sales are an established institution, and
good bargains can be made there ; but I would
advise the purchase of plants that have been
potted a few months, so that they have become
established. Such plants are oertain to grow with -
out any losses, and I am not sure that they may
not be even cheaper in the end. At present the
large Orchid importers have their houses quite
full of Orchids, and>they are only too glad to
clehr out at a cheip rat# fir c& fkftniported
plants are pot tea*- -ftinr" .-Hpk'TtflH pots to
with, and in VrUl — pots they

, COOL HOUSE ORCHID (ODONTOOLOSSUM CRISPUM

whether they were potted at midsummer or at
Christmas. If it is convenient to repot the
plants just as they start into growth that is
certainly the best time ; but in a collection of,
say, one hundred plants of Odontoglossum
crispum there will be plants starting at all
seasons. Indeed, this is one of the principal
merits of this fine species, that it Btarts into
growth at any time, and even in a small collec¬
tion plants will be in flower every day in the year.
Before the pseudo-bulbs have completed their
growth flower spikes show from the axils of the
leaves, sometimes two, but more frequently one
only from each bulb. As the bulbs continue to
develop, bo also the spike becomes stronger, and
before the first flowers open the bulb (pseudo¬
bulb is the correct designation) has also com¬
pleted and matured its growth. If the flower
spike is cut, or the flowers perish, the new
growth will be seen pushing from the base of
the one that has produced the flowers. If re¬
potting is necessary, this would be the right
time to do it. In our own case, with a hundred-
and one different classes of plants to attend to,

plants. Oiontoglossum crispum is the finest
species of the genus. There is considerable
confusion in the nomenclature of Orchids, and
this has not escaped. It was introduced from
Columbia in 18-t-l, and named O. crispum by Dr.
Lindley. It was reintroduced some twenty
years subsequently, aud received the specific
name of O. Alexandra*; and the spotted forms
about the same time were named in honour of
the collector Blunt— i r., O. Bluntii. They are
both synonyms of the original 0. crispum.
There could be no objection to designate any
particularly fine variety as O. crispum Alex¬
andra;, or any densely-spotted kind as O.
crispum Bluntii; but those names cannot
possibly be used in any other way. There
are now many scores of this species which
have been honoured with names given to them
by those who have been fortunate enough to
flower specially good varieties ; one of the very
finest was flcwe.red last year, and sold under the
name of G. crispum Vcitchianum. Following,
naturally, after ,0. crispum, comes a very fine
Odontcgi''»*nm, which ehum* a place as a die

Feb. 28, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

661

tinct species, this is O. Andersoniarium. It is |
evidently a natural hybrid between O. crispuin
and O. gloriosum, or O. odoratum. This species
varies quite as much as the original species it¬
self. Some of them are remarkably handsome,
and of considerable value from a commercial
aspect; others are very poor in quality. No
doubt this is owing to the good or bad qualities
of the original types. Natural hybrids are pro¬
duced by insect agency, and it is a mere chance
whether the insect will carry the pollen on
its crown from a good O. crispum to a good O.
odoratum or to a bad one. O. odoratum should
also be grown in a moderate sized collection. It
has yellowish flowers of small size, spotted and
blotched with reddish brown ; it is Bweetly per¬
fumed, and is valued principally for this quality.

J. Douqlas.

QUESTIONS.

Rules for Correspondents.—AM communications
for insertion should be clearly and concisely written on one
side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of Ga rdrn-
isg , 87, Southampton Street, Covent Garden, London. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publishf.r. The name and
address oj the sender is required in addition to any designa¬
tion he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than
one query is sent each should be on a separate piece of
paper. A nswers should always bear the number placed against
the query replied to, and our readers will greatly oblige us by
advising, so far as their knowledge and observations permit,
the correspondents who seek assistance. Conditions, soils,
and means vary so infinitely that several answers to the same
question Tiuiy often be very useful, and those who reply would
do well to mention the kx'alities in which their experience is
gained. Correspondents vjho refer to articles inserted in
Gardening should mention the number in which they
appeared.

All answers, with the exception of such as cannot well be
classified, will be found in the different departments.
Queries not answered should be repeated.

Naming plants or fruit.— Four plants, fruits, or
flowers only can be named at one time, and this only
when good specimens are sent. We do not undertake to
name varieties of florists? flowers, such as Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Azaleas, as these can only be correctly named
by a specialist who has the means of comparison at hand.
Any communication respecting plants or fruit sent to
name should aheays accompany the parcel. Correspondents
who wish fruit to be accurately named should send several
epecitnens of each, showing the fruit in various stages.

12S55.—Escallonia.—How and when can this be pro¬
pagated ?—Obim.

12366.— Moving Veronicas.— What is the right
time for moving shrubby Veronicas?— James R., Bridjwrt.

12357.—White Peeonles as pot plants.— Will
white Pieonies succeed as pot plants if taken up and potted
now?—O. S 8 ., Staines.

12358. -Taking cuttings of yellow Jasmine.—
What is the right season for taking cuttings of yellow
Jasmine?—O. S. 8 , Staines.

12859.— Plants for garden vases.—I have four
vasf s on p< destals, aud am anxious to get suitable plants,
either trailers or flowering—O hin, Frodsham.

12560.— Growing Tropeoolum. — Having some
Tropa?olum tuberosum I should feel obliged if anyone
would tell me how to grow them?—D. A. G. A.

12861.—Salt to destroy weeds.—Will any of your
correspondents kindly say what is the proper time and
mode to put salt on walks to destroy the weeds, &c ?—H

12S62.—Moving Carnations.—I have a quantity of
cuttings rooted in the open border ; when would it be
safe to lift them to make a bed of them?—M rs. L., North
Berwick.

12863. — Budding on Manetti stock - Are
Manetti stocks bunded on the side branches like the
Brier ? If not, should the side 'tranches that arc on now be
cut off ?- Donald.

12864. -Plunging bulbs. —In iny method of plunging
bulbs right? I plunge the pots in ashes, then tuin
proper sized pots over them, and cover all with ashes.—
Young Broinner.

12865.— Treatment of Begonias.— Can you give
some information as to treatment of Begonias, especially
at what time of year slips should be taken ?— Window
Gardener, Paris.

12866 —Greenhouse plants—I should like the
names of a few good perennials that can be raised from
seed to grow in an unheated greenhouse. I should like
them to bloom in the autumn.—A yrshire.

12S67.—Moss litter for bedding purposes.—
Will anyone kindly inform me whether manure, made in a
stable where Moss litter only is used for bedding pur¬
poses, is suitable for Cucumber growing ?—E. B.

123CS —Price of Vegetable Marrows and
Cucumbers.— Will anyone tell me what Vegetable
Marrows ond Cucumbers made on an average last season in
the London markets?— Ford.

12869 — Cuttings of standard Roses.—Will cut¬
tings of standard Roses grow if cut now ? If so, must I
plant them in the open borders, or in a slight heat ?—
Another Amateur, Dudley Wood.

12370.—Wood a9hes for Ferns.—Would wood ash
(which is very line) from a Are where Oak is burnt be of
any use or benefit for pot plants, including Ferns? If so,
how should it be used?—J. H .fBefyast.

12871.—Vegetables for exhibition — v|lflf‘Bkddle-
worth Amateur ” kindly give mto-ttA TsamoC of aJew\food
vegetables for e xhibition, such os Celrry, CuciAnbfcr, Peas,
and Onions? 1. Novice, near u

12872 - Scabby Potatoes.—My Potatoes, although
good specimens for exhibition, are more or less scabby.
Could anyone tell me of a remedy? Is sand good for
them?— A Yoono Beginner, Market Overton.

12873.- Heating greenhouse by gas.— I shall
feel greatly obliged if any reader can give me any ide\s or
experiences of heating small greenhouse by gas, t ie
apparatus to be inside the house —J. A , Oxford.

12874.— Pruning Roses— I Bhall be obliged if any
of your correspondents will kindly Rive me plain direc
tions for the pruning of dwarf hybrid perpetual Roses, and
also Moss Rose*.—O.

- Will some reader of Gardrnino te'l me the proper

way of pruning Moss Rosea ? I planted a number of them
two years ago and cut them down to wiihin 6 inches of
the ground; now some of the trees are 4 feet high.—
I. O. U.

12S75.- Flowers for button-holes.—I should be
much obliged to anyone who would give a list of flowers
suitable for button-holes, to be grown out-of-doors in pots.
—Wm. Bishop, Kettering.

12376.— Mealy bug.— W’ill some of your readers kindly
ive me the life history of the mealy bug (Coccus adoni-
um), and the best mode of destroying it and preventing
it from reappearing on vines now much infested ?—T. C'.
Smith.

12877.— Fernery.—I have made a pmall Fern case,
2 feet by 1 foot, and 4 inches deep. Will someone kindly
tell me the best olass of Ferns to use, what kind of soil is
most suitable, and how to drain the case ?— An Amateur,
Fulham.

12878.— Broad Beans.—I shall be glad to know the
name of the longest-podded and best-tilled Bsan for exhi¬
bition, the best artificial manure for same, and advice
when to use it. The soil is heavy and the exposure opin.
—West Lothian.

12879.— Plante for sunless house. — What
flowering or other plants are best for an unheated glass¬
house, with a blank wall 10 feet high, 16 feet lonp, with a
N.N.E. aspect? I presume that fruit growing in such a
house is out of the question as the sun scarcely touches
It.—S. A., Cheshire.

12380.— Plante for open situation.— Will some
readers be kind enough to tell me what to plant in a small
plot 16 feet by 8 feet, in an open situation, in extreme
south-west of Iieland ; also in a border 18 feet by 2 feet,
parallel to plot, and separated by a gravelled walk ?
Ordinary soil.— Paddy.

12881.—" Cingalese Saxifrage. Can you or any
of your correspondents give the correct Latin name of
a plant given to me under the name of “ Cingalese Saxi¬
frage?” 1 do not find such ■ ame in Miller’s " Dictionaiy
of English Names of Plants."—F. W.

12882.— Violet culture.— Will any lover of the
flower tell me what sort of soil best suits the Violet?
How Bhould it be prepared, what a>e the best sort of
plants to bloom in winter, and what time of year should
they be planted ? Should the runners be put down or
the old plants divided ?—C. A. R.

12883.— Fern case.—I am about to stock a small
Fern case, 12 by 12, and should like to know the kinds
of Ferns, Ac., to get—there are none in this part, as
it is near the sea coast—the number, the kina of soil
suitable, also the time to plant. The case is in a room with¬
out a fire.— Blytii, Northumba-land.

12884.— Purple Primrose.—I have a purple seedling
single Primrose of the same bright purple as a Verbena.
Although I have grown Primroses for years, and have
many colours, 1 never saw a bright purple one before.
Will any one tell me if it is uncommon ?—Mas. L. [Kindly
send us a bloom when it is in flower.— Ed.]

12885.— Heating greenhouses.— Will "L. L. L.”
kindly inform me if a No. 2 Star boiler, which he recom¬
mends so highly, would be suitable for my greenhouse, a
lean-to, 10 feet by 9 feet? Having tried oil lamps with as
little success as " L. L. L.," I am desirous of finding some
more efficient aod Inexpensive mode of heating.—W. C. W.

12886 —Profitable flower seeds.—I should be
glad to know what sorts of flower seeds would be the most
profitable to grow this season on an acre or so of medium
soil; their names would oblige.— Ford. | We presume our
correspondent means flowers worth growing for cutting,
or for aaving seeds from ; but his query is not sufficiently
clear.— Ed.]

12887.— Epiphyllums.— Will any reader kindly tell
mu what is the proper treatment for these after flowering ?
I have recently bought at a sale some very old plants.
Some have flowered since. Ought I to repot, and what
compost is necessary? Do they require plenty or no
watering, and what temperature suits them best?—
Siiowlek, London..

12S3S. -Design for carpet garden.—I should be
obliged if any of your readers could give me an idea or
design for laying out a small carpet garden, the garden to
be oval in shape, about 6 feet long by 4$ feet wide.—A ma-
trur. [Your second question, os to plants suitable for
carpet garden, has beeu dealt with in the last few numbers
of Gardening.—Ed.]

12889.— Vines and fungus.— Lost year I top dressed
my inside vine borders with horse-druppings, and, upon
examining the roots this spring, I find the border full of
Mushroom spawn running and producing occasional
Mushrooms. Will some practical vine-grower kindly say
if the Mushroom spawn will injure the vine roots, and if
so, what is my remedy?—H. G. P.

12890.— Fuchsia splendens.— Will anyone kindly
infui rn me if there is any special treatmeut for this plant ?
I have several well-developed plants which I keep in the
coolest part of a lean-to greenhouse, kept from 50 to
60 degs. ; the plants are loaded with buds, but not a
flower can I got, as each flower drops off as soon as it
reaches a fair size.— A Lover of Flowers, Lancashire.

12891.— Raising Auriculas —I have a small garden
about two miles outside Birmingham, with a wail facing
the north-west, and in it I have a cold frame, in which
I thought of putting a few seeds of Auriculas. I should
be pleased to learn whether, if they were set now, they
would flower this year, and also the best mode of raising
them— i.e , the mixture of soil, date of transplanting, Ac.
—Brum.

12892.— Keeping down weeds.— In your number
for July 6th, of lost year, there was an aniwer to query
11604, advising the use of arsenic and soda for the pre¬
vention of weed* in gravel walks. H ive you or any of
your readers tried this remedy? I am anxious to know,
before Bpending labour upon it, whether it is only a
partial cure or otherwise, and further will it injure thi
roots of hedges, &c. ?-E. H. F.

12893.— Heaths.— 1 shall be obliged if som one will
kindly inform me which of the following are hard and
which soft-wooded Heaths. I am told the latter should
be cut down after flowering. Docs fresh growth imme¬
diately ensue upon this, and, if so, will artificial heat be
beneficial to the plants? The kinds aro E. gracilis,
E. porsoluta, E. Bourani, E. Cavendishi, E. peraipicua
naua, E. by emails.—W. 8., Hampstead.

12894. -Treatment of Oleanders.—I should fee
much obliged to anyone who would inform me how to
treat Oleanders. I have ono which is about 10 fe t high,
but it never flowers. 1 have a greenhouse and a cold glass
house, but the Utter ia very much shaded by tiees.—
Chips. M T. K„ llchestcr, asks for similar information,
and further wishes for advice as to whether an Oleander
tree, so badly oovered with scale thvt the gi eater part of
the foliage has been cut off, should be cut back ?

12895.— Hyacinths In glasses- Some time since
placed in some Hyacinth glasses some single Hyacinths,
which showed leaf about a month since. Since th:-t they
have grown long and lanky, and the trusses have quite
fallen to pieces. I kept them in the dark for about a
fortnight after planting, and ha\e all the time kept tire
glasses well suppled with water. Have I given them too
much ? 1 have some others in my greenhouse, heated till
recently by a Loughborough stove, and these seem to get
on all right.— N. E. Pricrett, Cardiff.

12896.— Insects on Peas.— Will any fellow subscribsr
tell me how to prevent the larv® of the common centipede
from attacking Peas as soon os they begin to soften ? Mv
garden swarms with these lively insects, and although
they do not prevent the Peas sprouting they grow very
weakly, and, if taken up, the newly-sprouted Pea is one
living mass of these white, thread-like larva?. Dipping
the seed in paraffin oil is a partial remedy only. If I
soaked tho rows after planting with strong Tobacco water
at intervals «ntil tho Peas were above ground, would it
injure the growth of the Peas?—C. T.

12897.—Plants for shady garden. -I am anxious to
cultivate a portion of our garden entirely neglected owing
to the deep shadow cast over it by a dump of trees. The
soil is good, and I should be glad if any of your readers
could recommend some plants that would grow there, as
some colour, or even pretty green, would greatly improve
its present barren appearance —A Reader ok Gardening.
[There -ia a good deal about this question in the bock
volumes of Gardrnino, but we think it worth while to
insert the query again, as so many are interested in it,
and wo believe that many cf our readers can give the
desired information.— Ed.]

The following queries are briefly answered by
the Editor , but readers are invited to give further
answers should they be able to offer additional
advice on the various subjects.

12898.— Moving shrubby Veronicas.— What is
the best time for moving these ?—F. M. K.

[April; choose showery weather. ]

12899.—Hot-water pipes.— How can I take in pieces
my hot-water pipes (cost iron) cemented with iron filings
and sal ammoniac?—O ne in a Fix.

[You cannot disconnect the pipes so fixed without the risk
of breaking them.]

12900. — "W hat Is a " cold greenhouse Could I
grow things that are described as growing in a cold
greenhouse in an ordinary glass house, with no heat of
any description ?— Rose Trer, Ixnulon.

[SncA a house is precisely what is meant by the term.]

12901.—Early Narcissus.—Mary wants to know the
name of the small white Narcissus that is so plentiful just
now in all the flower shops and streets ?

[An early-flowering variety of Polyanthus Narcissus,
chiefly imported from south of France and Scilly Islands.]

12902.— Propagating Apple trees.—Will young
shoots from an Apple tree, such as are U9ed for grafting,
grow if cut and planted now ? If not, how should this kind
of tree be rahed ?— Another Amateur, Dudley

[Apple trees are propagated only by grafting and budding.]

12903.— Improving dry soil. —Would Cocoa-nut
fibre improve a dry gravel soil? If it would not do good,
what would be bast to use ?— A Young Gardener.

[No; it would not. The. best material for improving a
gravelly soil is good loam from a pasture or obtained from a
nursery.]

12904.— Fig tree fruiting.—Is there any likelihood
of a Fig tree fruiting which 1 raised a few years ago from
the Beed of an Eleme Fig ? It is at present at rest in a pot
placed in a vinery, which I intend starting shortly.—
W. C. B., Glasgow

[Yes; have patience and k.ep the tret pot-bound and fruit
will form.]

12905.— Large-leaved Begonias.—Do these require
repotting every year, and, if so, whon ought it to be done,
and wh%t soil ? My conservatory is a cold one — Oakleigh.

[If you have no heat in your house the plants will require
Li be dried off moderately in winter, and in spring repotted
before they start into growth. Use a mixture of peat-loam
and sand. \

12906.—Apples not keeping.—I should be much
obliged if you would kindly inform me the cause of dry rot
in the Apple I send you? A few years ago they were
splendid keeping Apples, and were often kept till Jnne.—
A. H.

[ You don’t say where they are stored. A re they kept under
the same conditions as they used to be l We are sorry to say
that Ajtfilks that keep are very rare nowadays, ami we
believe that our fruit is generally kept too warm, and in
structures not fitted for it. If you wish ue ft> name you must
send us average specitners of tha fruit; mo cut up the one
yon for the purj’O nj ’ern'mining it.

662

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 28, 1885.

12907. -Flowers for border.—I want to plant three
rows of permanent flowers for border in damp ground
under trees. 1. Would Mossy Saxifrage, (2) Doronicum
cvicasioum, (3) Diclytra fortnosa, do?-9coTiA.

[1’cj ; these will be suitable provided the soil for No. 3 is
light, as it it a more delicate •plant than the. others. Readers
may probably be able to add to the list.]

1290S.— Onopordon Acanthlum — Having sown
seeds of the Onopordon aennthium the last two springs,
and tailed to get one plant, 1 should be much obliged lor
u bint on their cultivation. - Llwynypia.

| If the seed is go<xl it will germinate readily, atul the plant
grow vigorously. A ju'l grown plant is about « feet
hi h. Huw sreds cither in a hot bed now or in April cmt-of-
doors.]

12919.— Tuberoses. —Do theso bloom every year with
proper treatment? A nurseryman told me he always
threw his bulbs away after flowering.— Showlkr, London.

[They are usually bought for flowering every year.]

UNANSWERED QUERIES.

12609 — Eupatorium odoratiasimum — Is this
plant of any uso to make a little show during December
and Jauu:try in a town conservatory, kept at between
40degs. and 45dega. during winter?—U rbs.

12611.— Good Indoor climbers.—I want the name
of a plant with plenty of foliage which will thrive indoors.
Would a Troptnolum or Clematis suit, os it is to be trained
over vine ?— Evrlren Constance.

12909.— Tigfridla grandiflora alba.— Is Tigridia
granditlora alba at all amenable to pot culture in green¬
house ? What treatment and soil does it require to flower
it successfully ?—W. C. B., Glasgow.

[Purchase the, bulbs now, and jmt about three in a U-inch
pot in ordinary potting soil. Do not water until the leaves
appear, but keep moist while growing, (fire plenty of light
and air, and do not stifle it in a greenhouse.]

12910.— Ageratum — With me this grows lanky. It
is close to the glass, and Is in a temperature of 40dega.
Daes it require much water?— Oaklrihh
[ Tour house is rather ton cold for this plant. If yon re¬
quire it to be in rigorous growth now for flowering give it
plenty of light and pul it in a seamier temperature. You
may then wader without fear of overdoing it, provided the
drainage of the pots is perfect ]

12911.— Habrothamnus elegrana out-of-doors
in Scotland—I have this growing against a south wall
for the last two year*. It flowered well last spring, and as
far as this wint r has gone, it is qinto fresh. Is it usual
for this greenhouse plant to do so w'ell outside ?— Mrb. L.
North Berwick. ’

[It i* *em unusual, and the fact you mention is very
interesting]

12912.— Jloya carnosa.—I lave had a Hova carnosa
in a greenhouse for several years, but it has never
flowered. Would I succeed any better by training it up
the front of a vinery and only removing it to the green¬
house in winter? What soil does it require?—W. C. B.,
Glasgow.

[This is generally a plant of very cosy culture, thriving
better under neglect than attention, if grown in a dry
warmish house.]

12913.— The netted Iri3.— Can you give me a hint as
to what to do with Iris reticulata when done flowering?
I put it into a cold frame, and it was in flower on 12th
February. Is it hardy, and will it grow' in the open air?
It gives adeheious violet perfume, enough to scent a room.
South Devon.

[/f iii perfectly hardy in light sandy soil. Choose the
warmest spot trt your garden, ami when Will established
leave it alone. For pot culture buy a supply in autumn.]

12914.— Pampas Grass.—I have two very fine plants
of Pampas Gross in my garden that have been planted five

« jars and have grown to a great size, but have failed to
oom as yet. Is there anything I can do to induce them
to bloom? I have always tended them well in the
summer for water, but they only grow' the more.—

P'tru seem to be treating your Pampas too liberally.
Withhold manure and water during the coming season, and
rejxrrt the results.]

12915.— Hardy plants. -Would any of the readers of
Gardening inform me if the following perennials can be
easily raised from seed 7-Michaelmos Daisies, Delphiniums,
Honeysuckle, French Iberis, Linum album, Lobelia car¬
dinal^, Lupinus, Lychnis, Oxlips, Oxalis, and Potent,ilia.
I w’ould like to know if the above are all good showy
flowers, useful for cutting, if any will bloom the first year,
and if all are quite hardy ?— Ayrshire.

[All you mention have showy flowers, and may be easily
raised from seed in a cool frame, sown during the next six
weeks ]

12910.— Plant for Hall.— Will you kindly tell mo the
names of some plants the most suitable for keeping in a
hall which at night is lighted by gas?— Ricinos.

[Our own experience is that the best plants for such a posi¬
tion are the Aspidistra and certain Ferns, of which \cphro-
lepis exaltata is a good example. In a fairly well-lighted
apartment in a country house a great many more plants
could be grown, and we have no doubt many of our readers
will help you; bv.t gas is much against you.l

12917.— Names of plants.—I should feel obliged if
you would give the names of (1) those trees planted along
the Thames Embankment —they havo a prickly ball
hanging to the boughs at this time of the year. (2) The
name of a tree having a leaf liko an Ash, with scarlet
berries in the autumn. (3) The name of the sham

Currant that blooms in the spring ; scented leaves_

Lower Clapton.

[L London Plane {Platanus acerifolia). 2. Mountain
Ash or Rowan tree (Pyrus Aucuparia). 3. Ribes san-
guineum.]

1291*.— Carpet for bank — At the foot of my front
garden, about 90 feet from the front of the house nnd
parallel with it, facing the east, and partially Bhaded by a
large tree, I have a bank of barren clay, 7 feet high
20 feet wide at the base, and sloping up to 2 feet at the top!
On this slope I intend to grow a fow dwarf Roses and
ah? ubs, nnd should like, if it can be done, to growa carpet
cf some pretty-looking stuff-not Gimss— which would
require little or no cutting (perhaps Heath), such as we
see sometimes looking so grand on moors or commons. If
this cannot be done, what can I grow as a substitute? The
bank is covered 8 inches or 10 inches deep with rich garden
earth, and is situated in west Somerset.— A Reader
[There a>e a great many p ants that would suit yon, from
the common Stonecrop and its many allies to the dwarf Ferns
and even a hardy Moss-Selaginella. If the spring Heath,
Enca camca, will grow in the soil it will make a beautiful
carpet; but the carpet should be settled partly by the large
plants which you in'end should spring from it." Some plants
do not give a chance to a carpet, and others ’
o ,i.!/. Pcgged-dow.i Rosur'Ufa'thrir r .ten
of iha Evergreen Ca.ndytifls
the he Lithospermum Ae rl rlLi"^/

positions ]

12621.— Geraniums for winter flowering:.— Will
some reader select from the following list of Geraniums
eight that are best suited for winter flowering?—Ferdinand
de Lesseps, Mr. Moore, Eurydice, Chas. Darwin, Madame
Leon Delloy, Ceres, Louis Piquet, Colonel Seely, Dr.
Orton, Mrs. Turner, Csneral Farro, Captain Holden (im¬
proved), Guinea, Mrs. Stacey, F. V. Raspail, Celia,Prlma
Donna, Mrs. Leavers, Evening Star.—I vanhor, Yorks.

126S9.— A legal question.— The right
to remove the greenhouse will depend upon the
nature of the foundations. If the timbers re¬
ferred to only rest upon the surface of the
ground, and the whole of the greenhouse is
placed upon the timbers so that there is no
foundation let into the soil, it can be removed
any time before the expiration of the term. The
rule is, that plants, shrubs, and young trees,
from their size or nature intended for perma¬
nent growth in the same place, cannot be re¬
moved by a tenant on the expiration of a
tenancy. Roses may now bo potted, as it is a
common horticultural thing to do so, and might
as pot plants be removed. The only full and
general exception is in favour of nurserymen,
who may sell or take away their stock. If the
greenhouse is removed, the surface must be
made the same a3 when “ J. C.” entered.— J.
Pearson, Lancashire .

The “ Burning Bush.”— My remarks on
the Burning Bush or Dictamnus Fraxinella have
seemingly tickled the fancy of a few of your
readers, and in reply to “Lincolnshire Rector”
I have to say that it is no tradition, delusion,
or fable, but an actual fact, and what I stated
was simply my own experience. I still
adhere to what 1 said in your issue of 31st Janu¬
ary last, with this slight difference—I will
allow that it may be a volatile oil instead of
phosphorous (emitted by the flowers—not the
stems as the “Rector” says); but the phenomenon
remains the same, and I have tested it again and
again in the presence of my friends, whose
evidence may be accepted if mine is doubted.
I could give you any amount of evidence, but
hope the enclosed certificate will suffice. I may
further say that the best display I ever saw of
it was in the gardens of Robert Cathcart,
Esq., of Pitcairlie, in the presence of his
head-gardener, the late John Laing, who called
my attention to it along with the gentleman
whose certificate of evidence I enclose. It was
tried on an established plant of the red variety
on a mild evening after rain, and the plant was
literally all ablaze. I have tried it often since
and seldem failed, but found that the same
spike would not flame again within about three
days. If Mr. Kydd, of Lynn, Norfolk, would
only try when the plant is in full flower, he will
find it no phosphorescent light but an actual
flame, and even the very anthers of the flowers
are to all appearance left unharmed. In regard
to raising Fraxinellas from seed, sow as soon
as the seed is ripe where they are to grow,
and thin out to one plant, as they do not like re¬
moval.— John Clark, Anchtermuchty . The
enclosure referred to is as follows :—“ With re¬
ference to the discussion in your paper regarding
the Burning Bush, I can bear testimony to the
fact that on applying a lighted match to the
bottom of the spikes when in full flower it will
immediately produce a flame running from
spike to spike, and the flower left uninjured. I
have seen it done repeatedly in different gardens
—Jas. Lambert, Provost, Auchtermuchtu , 16th
Feb., 1885.”

- My experience with regard to the

Fraxinella coincides with that of “ Lincolnshire
Rector.” I have twice purchased the seed from
a well-known establishment, whoso seeds in
other instances I have not known to fail, but
neither time did a single seed germinate, though
they were soaked in water as directed. In one
instance the pan was placed in a greenhouse
and in the other in a hot bed, ai*d the pans were
not emptied for months. —Patience.

INDOOR PLANTS.

WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS.—V.

Ericas.

Heaths, of several varieties, are largely
grown and generally admired aB winter flower¬
ing plants. The most general and useful of all
is, however, E. hyemalis, which is grown by
tens, one might almost Bay hundreds, of
thousands yearly for the London market alone.
Except in first-class establishments Heaths
are very rarely seen well-grown in private
gardens, yet the growers for market produce
exquisite little specimens, seemingly without
trouble, and at a marvellously low price.
Watering is a point requiring a great amount
of judgment, for a Heath once dried up
is irretrievably ruined, while, on the other hand,
too much water is as fatal in its results. Cut¬
tings of tiny aide shoots, about an inch long, and
taken from plants that have been slightly
started into fresh growth, are put in some time
during the winter, generally about January.
These are inserted as thickly as possible in
6-inch pots, about fifty cuttings in each, the pot
being two-thirds filled with drainage (broken
bricks or pots), then a little rough siftings, over
that an inch or two of a mixture of equal parts
of fine peat and silver sand, and a good half-inch
of pure silver sand on the surface. These are
pressed down pretty firmly, then well watered,
and when the superfluous moisture has run off
the cuttings are put in with a small dibber.
These are again watered in, allowed to dry a
little, then placed under bell glasses, or in a
kind of rough frame, with flat sheets of glass
laid over the pots, in a close propagating house
at about 60 degs. They now need careful
watching against both damp and too much dry¬
ness, but, escaping these evils, will probably be
for the most part rooted in a few week’s time,
when they are hardened off a little, potted
singly into thumbs, or pricked off four or five
round the sides of a larger pot, and, finally,
when well established in 60’s, turned out
into cold frames or pits for the summer.
Here they have abundance of air given them,
the lights being drawn quite off on fine warm
days and nights. On the approach of winter
they are placed in a house where frost is just
excluded, and plenty of air given, though many
growers, to save so many removals, have the
pits fitted with a 2 inch hot-water pipe all
round, which will keep out the frost, and dis¬
pense with the trouble of housing. About
March the young plants, now strong and sturdy,
with plenty of shoots, are potted into 48’s.
Nothing but pure peat of the beat quality aud
Bilver sand is ustd, and the soil is rammed in
the pots, by means of a blunt-pointed stick, as
hard as it can be made. The plants are now
kept close and warm for a short time, and
watered with very great care, as if the fresh soil
gets the least sodden before the roots begin to
work in it the plant is sure to perish. About
the end of May, when well in growth, the plants
are turned out in the open air, a sunny open
position away from any trees or high buildings
being chosen. Here they are stood on a goed
thick layer of ashes, to keep worms from
entering the pots, and placed in regular lines
and beds at about 1 foot or 15 inches apart.
Water only when required, and pour the liquid
just inside the rim of the pot, and not into the
heart of the plant. If the latter is done, serious
injury will result. In potting, the collar of the
plant is kept rather high, for if the centre of
the soil i9 lower than the sides the water
settles round the collar, and shortly proves fatal
to this class of plants. By the end of Sep¬
tember, or some time in October, the flower
buds begin to show themselves. In October
the plants are housed in a light, airy structure,
and, if required in full bloom about Christmas,
are subjected to a gentle heat, which has the
effect of expanding the bloom to perfection ; or,
if not wanted till late, they are kept cool and
allowed to bloom naturally. Any plants that
are not disposed of are cut back closely after
flowering, repotted when broken again, usually
into a pot a size larger, and grown on through
the summer, and usually make fine specimens
the next winter. Few objects in the floral
world can equal the beauty of a well-grown
spike of Erica hyetnalis wreathed from tip to
base with ita wealth of delicate pearly pink and
white bells, and, though now so commonly met

Feb. 28, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

663

with, no true florist can tire of this most elegant
plant.

Epacris.

Almost equal in value and beauty to the
Heath stands the Epacris, which has the
additional advantage of being much more easily
grown, flowered, and kept in hoalth than the
Erica. Heaths cannot be grown anything like
well—or, rather they cannot be induced to
bloom properly, though they frequently grow
too much, if anything—in, or in the neighbour¬
hood of, large towns ; but we have had the
Epacris do really well, and bloom nicelv several
years in succession in almost the heart of
London ; and though, perhaps, a little stiffer in
habit the flowers are quite as beautiful and far
more useful for cutting than those of the Erica.
The mode of propagation, as well as the subse¬
quent treatment, is precisely the same as that
indicated for the last-named plant; the main

E oint in producing a satisfactory amount of
loom being the thorough ripeningof the season's
growth during the late summer months by
abundant exposure to the fullest amount of sun¬
shine and fresh air. On this ripening process
being properly performed the blooming entirely
depends; without it, however healthy the
plant, there will be little or no bloom. A good
and well-matured growth being given, and a
position in a light airy structure, with a
temperature of 40 degs. to 50 degs., or rather
more if the blooms are wanted to expand some¬
what quickly, being afforded, the Epacris will not
fail to be in great beauty from about Christmas
time until February or March. There are a great
number of varieties, of which the best are E.
hyacinthiflora candidissma and rubra, white
and red, very large blooms ; E. impressa, a very
fine variety; E. fulgcns, crimson; E. alba
odorota, white and sweet-scented ; E. delicata ;
E. grandifolia and gr. rubra ; E. miniata
splendens; and E. rubra superba : E. nivalis,
snow-white ; and E. carminata.—B. C. R.

LASIANDRA FLORIBUNDA WITHOUT
HEAT.

WnEN, in 1867, I Baw in Curtis Botanical
Magazine, under the title of “ Pleroma’’ (t.
5029), a coloured plate of this magnificent plant,
with its shining deep violet bloom i (almost the
colour of Clematis Jackmanni, but lighter and
brighter), and beautiful reticulated leaves, I
thought it far out of my power ever to grow it;
but, seeing it three or four years ago in a
friend’s stove, 1 begged a small plant of it. A
trial of it in what little heat I have was
successful, as far as growing it went, but it
spindled, and did comparatively little good.
Consulting my Curtis I found that it grew in
Peru, at an elevation of 8,000 feet, and 1
resolved to try a new system of my own. You
say recently (as everyone else seems to think)
in your answer to a correspondent (No. 12799)
that it requires warm treatment. In this 1
venture to differ from you. I struck some
cuttings, in a little bottom-heat, though this is
not necessary, potting them finally in a 6-inch
or 7-inch pot in common potting soil—loam, leaf-
mould, and silver sand—and letthe plantsgro won
in an ordinary greenhouse, carefully pinching
them to make bushes. These were then put into a
cold frame in late spring until summer weather,
when the pots were placed on the bare ground
amongst some Gooseberry bushes to shelter
them from our rough winds, leaving them ex-

r sed to rain and sun until early autumn, when
removed them to a cold greenhouse. One
plant was, I believe, left in the cold frame all
the summer. They bloomed fairly during the
winter of 1883-4, and, after being cut in a little,
they bloomed on as before. Last October I had
three plants about 18 inches high, like small
round Gooseberry bushes, with 200 to 300 buds
on each. They began flowering about Novem¬
ber, when they were removed to a moderately-
heated greenhouse, and bloomed all the winter
through. The last of them shows some blooms
even yet, and I have lately been striking new

F lants. The bushes support themselves, and
am in the habit of allowing each pot to stand
in an earthenware saucer, which is filled with
water only about once a week, and permitted
to dry up. I also water the surface, and give
half-a-teaspoonful of Standen’s mixture now and
then. The only objectflon,l have to the flower
is that it is a daylight ^ colour

does not show well in VctlmebFl 1J gn$, J May I

thank you for your admirable article in Gar¬
dening Illustrated, of January 31st, on
Linum trigynum ? I see that it is a West
Indian plant, requiring a special cultivation,
which few amateurs can command, and I shall
give up trying to grow it—all my attempts have
been failures. Many plants besides LaBiandra
require less heat them is supposed. 1 have in
my greenhouse in a warm corner out of
draughts a large plant of the old thorny
Euphorbia splendens, which is never out of
bloom, and is now, thanks to an occasional dose
of Standen’s mixture, thickly covered with its
dead-vermilion coloured sprays, most useful and
lasting for bouquets. Wnen the Chinese Wis¬
taria was first introduced in 1816, it was
grown in a peach house in a temperature of
84 degs., and, being almost lost by red spider,
was cut down, potted, and so much neglected
as to get frozen. To the surprise of its intro¬
ducer, Captain Welbank, it flowered the fol¬
lowing spring, and was soon spread over Great
Britain. I grow Gloxinias most successfully in
my greenhouses, wintering them under the
shelves near the hot-water pipes, and I am trying
what I can do with Stephanotis, but I fear that
it requires too moist an atmosphere for me,
though it bloomed fairly last summer, and is
showing for bloom again. Mid-Cheshire.

REPLIES.

12693.—Summer treatment of Cycla¬
mens. —The mould on the back of the leaves
is probably mildew, caused by a too damp
atmosphere, and the flowers must have been
disfigured by slugs. The principal points to be
borne in mind in the culture of Persian Cycla¬
mens is that from the middle of May till autumn
they require a cool moist atmosphere, and that
the soil must not be allowed to become quite
dry. There are other points to be considered,
but on the due observation of these depends
the welfare of the plants. The most satisfactory
results are now obtained by means of young
plants, the result of sowing the previous autumn,
which have now a pair of healthy leaves. It is
from such young plants that the fine specimens
seen in Covent Garden during the spring months
are obtained. They are found to grow morefreely
than older bulbs. At this time of the year the
best place for them is a warm house, where the
temperature does not exceed 60 degs. If kept
in a light position, they grow freely and make
sturdy little plants ready for 4£ pots by the
beginning of June; but they will do very well
in an ordinary greenhouse if well attended to.
They should be put singly into small “ thumb ”
pots—which is the smallest size that is made
—in a compost of equal parts leaf - soil
and loam, adding quite one fifth of the
whole of silver sand. Be sure not to pot
hard, and, while taking care that the soil
never becomes quite dry, avoid bringing
it into a sour, pasty condition by watering too
frequently or too heavily. Do not put them
on a shelf over the glass, but stand them on
the front stage on Cocoa-fibre or ashes, which
will be oool or moist to the roots in hot
weather. Give air in fine weather, but avoid
draughts. Dj not allow the sun from April
onwards to shine on them after eight o’clock
in the morning or before four o’clock in the
afternoon, and well damp the house down and
syringe with clear water twice a day in hot
weather. Watch for green fly, and dust with
Tobacco powder the moment it appears. By
the end of June they will have made some
fair-sized healthy leaves, and may be shifted,
the largest into 4£ pots, the others into
2§ pots; indeed, they had better all go
into the smaller size than run the risk of being
over-potted. After the middle of September
let them have all the sun that comes. Plants
that have bloomed should be watered, when
dry only, until July, and then have all the
old soil shaken away, and be repotted in pots
only large enough to contain the roots, and
to allow a little spare room. Water only when
quite dry until they come well into growth,
and then give more. There is no place so good
for Cyclamens in summer as the frame, as
there they stand on a cool, moist bottom, and
can be fully exposed to the night air in balmy
weather.—J. Cornhill.

- I have not seen any reply to “Ger

trude’s ” query [an answer appeared last week],
although we have had an interesting article

from B. C. Ravenscroft, who advocates the
keeping of old plants during the summer in the
pots in which they bloomed the preceding
season plunged in a cool, shady position out of-
doors. This will answer very well if they
receive proper attention during the resting
season ; but in nine cases out of ten amateur
gardeners are, to say the least of it, rather
forgetful of their winter favourites directly they
begin to look shabby and unattractive. Any
place is good enough for the poor, forlorn,
flowerless plant; and as for watering, the
watering-pot has quite enough to do to attend to
the wants of the, say, Geraniums, Begoniap,
Fuchsias, and other summer visitants, without
wasting its refreshing contents on the poor
brown, scrubby Cyclamen corm. My advice,
then, to “Gertrude ” is to keep her Cyclamens
in a position where they will have a chance to
take care of themselves. Let them remain *
under cover until the middle of May, and then
look out for some quiet corner in the kitchen
garden, rather shady, if possible. Turn them
out of their pots and plant them out about
1 foot apart, leaving the top of the corm just
level with the soil. Let her give them a tho¬
rough good watering, and then she may be
happy and go away and forget them until Sep¬
tember. This is the way I keep all my old
Cyclamens with the very best results and tho
least possible amount of trouble. — R. W.
Beachey,

12521.— Window box.—The plants should
be in pots, and then as they go out of blossom
they should be removed and others substi¬
tuted. In winter and early spring the chief
reliance will be, of course, upon hardy things --
fruit-bearing shrubs as the Aucubas and
Skimmias. One of the hardy Palms (Chamie-
rops excelsa) would make a nice change ami
not be difficult to keep. Several of the varie¬
gated Euonymus will be useful. For instance,
what a nice effect in winter would be such a
case with a good bush of Aucuba in pot and
half-a-dozen plants of Christmas Rose grouped
around, the pots hidden by green Moss ? This
will look better than a more complicated
arrangement. Then for a change we may
have a Palm and a ground work of the Golden
Primroses, and golden variegated Euonymus
and Violets. These are all simple, hardy
things, arranged in a simple manner. Then as
soon as the early bulbs come in the Snowdrop,
the Crocus, the Daffodil, and Tulip will all be
available, and might be worked very well in
small pots, the pots to be plunged out when the
flowers fade. Drac&na indivisa is very
ornamental from the first, even very young
plants, and will survive uninjured all but our
severest winters. As the spring advances there
are Wallflowers and Stocks, Dielytra spectabilis
(Chinese Fumitory) succeeds very well in a case.
One plant in the centre, surrounded by a group
of dwarf things in contrast, will be effective.
What I think we want in such places is more
change and simpler materials. We all know
that quiet, simple arrangements are always
the most pleasing. In summer there aro
materials in plenty—Fuchsias, Pelargoniums.
Hydrangeas. What a grand attraction a goou
sized Hydrangea would be in the centre with a
ground work of Ferns or Mosses beneath and
around ! The Rhododendron and Azalea and
the Camellia would succeed in such a case when
in flower. But I am assuming that pure air can
be given. The plants that will thrive in a smoke
laden atmosphere are comparatively few. I
know Birmingham well, and in the suburbs the
air is good enough, but in the town the smoke is
often dense. If the plants are planted out there
could not be so much variety, and the removal
of a sickly plant would leave r a vacancy some
times difficult to fill without a re-arrangement of
the whole, and at certain seasons such disturbance
might do harm. Then, again, the question of Boil
is a most important one in all efforts of town
gardening. — E. Hobday.

12744—Growing Balsams and Petunias
for exhibition. —The Balsams should be
grown from seeds and the Petunias from cut¬
tings. Sow the Balsam seeds in pots, and
plunge them in a hot-bed early in March. Pot
off the plants singly in small pots, and in rich
compost. The plants grow very rapidly, and
as they increase in strength they may be potted
on, and for exhibition each plant should be
flowered a 10 inch or l|-inch pot. \yhen thd

6d4

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 28, 1885.

weather is warm the plants may have plenty of
air, and at all times should be grown close to
the roof glass. The first flowers that appear
on the main stems should be picked off in the
bud state ; this ensures a more vigorous leaf
and stem development. To ensure a good
quality of Petunias the best varieties must be
grown from cuttings. The points of the young
shoots ought to be taken off at once ; they will
form roots in a few days in a hot-1* d, and
should be potted off singly almost as soon as
they are rooted. They require much the same
treatment as that recommended for Balsams.
They should be potted in rich soil, and grown
on in a light, airy place to prevent their being
drawn.—J. D. E.

12C7C.— Potting Gloxinias.— It is not
necessary to wait until the bulbs start into
growth before potting them. Those who have
a warm house should pot a few in January, and
some again a month later ; pot those intended
for late summer and autumn bloom in April,
which is the proper time where there is no
command of warmth. If the bulbs are about
*2 inches across they are large enough for 6-inch
pots, otherwise 4^-inch pots are large enough.
Give good drainage, use peat loam and leaf-soil
in equal proportions with abundance of white
sand ; and water with extreme care until the
young growths are well on their way. Winter
the bulbs in dry sand or Cocoa fibre, and keep
them in a temperature of 50 degs. ; they need no
moisture until they are repotted.—J. Cornhill.

12660.— Picea nobilis from seeds.— Sow
the beginning of March in a cool house or frame,
using as compost loam and leaf-soil in equal parts
with one-fourth of the whole of silver sand.
Pans or 6 inch pots well drained are best to sow
in ; fill to within an inch of the rim, make the
surface firm, and water before sowing. Cover
the seeds with about their own thickness of fine
mould, and then with Moss, which remains on
until the young plants appear. Stand the pots
in a close frame or under a handlight, and see
that the soil never gets dry. After the young
plants appear it will be advisable to keep them
under cover for a time afterwards, placing them
in the open air. The following year, in April,
they may be pricked out in the open ground in
well-stirred soil.—J. Cornhill.

12749.—Cinerarias. —The treatment of
th?se, as dotailed in this query, seems to be
correct. Perhaps they were caught by the
frost; if so, that would account for their
damping off subsequently. Why water them
twice a week ? They ought to be watered as
they need it, and not at any stated time.
Cinerarias do not thrive well in a warm, dry
atmosphere, but, on the other hand, they are
easily chilled by cold and damp. We grow
several hundreds of plants, and do not lose two
in a hundred. From their earliest seedling
state they are grown up to be freely exposed to
the air ; they are, therefore, dwarf plants, with
stout, healthy foliage, which enables them to
withstand the unfavourable weather during
winter.—J. D. E.

12751.—Potting soil for Ferns.— Good
soil for Ferns is composed of about equal parts
of turfy loam and brown fibrous peat. Tear the
turves to pieces by the hands, mix some coarse
white sand with them, and a portion of broken
charcoal. Drain the pots well, and place some
fibrous turf, from which the soil has been shaken,
over the crocks, to prevent the finer particles of
the potting soil from mixing with the drainage.
Some species of Ferns, such as Todea superba
and the Gleichenias, succeed better in fibrous
peat, and some of the Adiantums in two parts
loam to one of peat. The Australian Tree
Ferns do well in t%vo parts peat to one of
loam.—J. D. E.

12828. — Saving Cineraria seed. —
41 Amateur ” is advised not to attempt to save
Cineraria seed from flowers which open before
the end of March. The air before that time is
generally too damp for the flowers to stand;
after that time stand your plants in a cool, airy
part of the greenhouse, and they will ripen
seed freely, that is, if there are a sufficient
number of flowers open after that date. If
you have any plants going out of flower early
in the month of May place them in a warm,
sheltered corner out-of doors, and they will
seed even more freely than those in the green¬
house if you keep late-spring frost from reaching

gfe

18740.—Getting rid of ants.— Lay a
quantity of partially-picked boiled bones in
the haunts, and they will be quickly covered
with insects. As soon as this occurs, throw
the bones into hot water, and before laying them
down again, let all superfluous moisture drain
off. This is a cheap remedy, and if persisted in
is very effectual. When found away from the
roots and stems of plants, the best remedy of all
is to flood them out or scald them in with boil¬
ing water.—T. J. W.

-They are fond of sugar, and if a small portion is

placed near their haunts they will swarm over it, and can
easily be destroyed. We water thorn with boiling water,
and it kills them instantly.—J. D. E.<

12813.—Perns not appearing.— Perhaps my expe¬
rience will be of service to *■ B. H.” A few months ago I
was very much puzzled by my Maiden-hair fronds not
coming up perfect, and felt sure something ate them
when they were scarcely abovo ground. After looking
several nights with a light, 1 was rewarded by finding a
quantity of small snails in a black shell scarcely any
larger than a pin’s head.— Oakliioh.

12832.—Culture of Pancratiuma.—Pancratiums
should be potted In rich yellow loam and kept in con¬
tinuous growth in warm greenhouse.—0. F. D.

12750.— Growing Lapageria rosea— The plants
do not require much shade; they do best well exposed to
light and air. Pot the small plants in good fibrous peat,
and grow it on well in the light part of the house. It will
flower next autumn.—J. D. E.

12737.— Late white Chrysanthemums- The
best late large-flowering white is Miss Marechaux. Em¬
press of India Is a fine, large, rather late flower, and there
are the Princesses of Teck and Wales. Amongst the
Japanese, the best would be Perle des Blanches (as Elaine
is early), and Fair Maid of Guernsey might ba useful. -
J. P. f iAincashirf.

12744. — Japanese Chrysanthemums for
Winter. —The only way is to keep their growth os back¬
ward as possible, retarding their blossoming bj nipping
the shoots.—J. P., Lancashire.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

REPLIES.

12562. — Potato for exhibition. —
“Novice” will not succeed in getting any
Round Potato fit to exhibit in June. About the
best is Early Oxford, but that will not be ready,
unless unduly forced, and at the risk of com¬
plete failure. The early Potatoes are the
Kidney variety, and the best of them is the
Ashleaf. Myatt’s and Rivers’ are good and
very early, but Webbs’ is spoken of as the
earliest, having been raised 26bh of May. The
great thing to attend to for ensuring success is to
get the tubers well sprouted before planting ;
the sprout should be at least an inch long,
strong, and crowned with green buds.—J. P.,
Laneushire.

-Carter’s early Eight Weeks and First and Be 9 t arc,

I believe, the best very early round Potatoes.—E. Hobday
12S14.—Cucumbers.— The following are the best :
Blue Gown, Marquis of Lome, prolific Tender and True,
Duke of Edinburgh, for greenhouse or frame. For out-of-
doors the following are good : Stockwoed Ridge and
Donald Beaton’s Ridge.—C. F. D.

REPLIES.

12080. — Dictionary of garden flowers. — A
dictionary of garden flowers, with coloured plates,
generally goes a very short way towards representing
them—there arc so many flowers. There is no modern
book answering the description given by yon. All the
new plants are figured in the Qardon. The “English
Flower Garden,” although it has no coloured plates, will
help you. It contains over a thousand cuts, and nearly
every family is represented.—T. D.

12732 —Bata In attic-—If the bats enter through an
open window a pieco of tanned netting large enough to
cover the aperture will suffice te keep them out, and, at
the same time, not exclude air.—A. E. A.

1*2784.—Crickets in stove house —I destroy these
by catting thin slices of bread, wnich are spread thinly
on both sides with phosphor paste. Cut the slices into
inch squares and lay them about where the insect j do
moat mischief.—J. D. E.

- Last year I enquired in your paper how fco'rid my

house of blackbeetles, and from the answer, in June, 1894,
(with very small faith), I sent for a pot of Magic Paste!
coat 2s. CJ , and applied as directed. I have not half-used
the quantity sent, and yet I believe I have not a beetle
loft in the house! My dubious friends say “ Wait till
April and you will be swarmed again.” If I am not by
June I must write again to your columns, for the absence
of such a pest must not be enjoyed in silenco. I imagine
this paste will destroy crickets as well, and perhaps
“ Reader," in Feb. 14, may like to try its effects 7—E. A.

-Hardeman’s London beetle powder is effectual if

scattered in their haunts. Also James’ phosphor paste
spread on bread and butter. They are cure to eat it, and
equally sure to die.—T. J. W., C Vouch Hill.

12031. — Pansy growing*. — Erratum. — On
page642, in my answer to “X. Y.V’ query about Pansies, I
am made to say in lastscntencc, “ 1 do not think the Pansy
exhausts the soil.” Now, I do mean to say distinctly, that
the Pansy docs exhaust the soil, and to grow them woll it
is necessary to give new earth or to so change the old
earth, by using chemicals, that it comes to the same
thing.—A. Swket.

12840.— Blague of woodllcd. —I was plagued by wood -
lice in the same way as “ J. P." a few months back. I laid
a piece of carpet on the floor over night, and in the morn -
lag it was covered with them. I then committed whole¬
sale murder by plunging the carpet, woodliee and all, into
a pail of boiling water. Now there is not one to be seen.—
C. F. D.

12778.— Straw v. Moss manure —The word must
is used in the editorial answer to this question ; better
alter it^to may. Leaves are not absolutely necessary.—

12753.— ABolian harp —An urgent case.—In response
to our appeal, several readers have kindly answered this
question. Their replies, however, need not be given at
length, os the general advice contained in most is that
our fair correspondent should pause ere she carries out
her throat, and should first of all consult a musical instru¬
ment maker.

12750.—Artificial chemical manures.
—If “ M. M.” has failed to derive any benefit
from a judicious use of artificial manures, it
must be because he has not used a sufficient
quantity. Generally speaking, inexperienced
people use them in two large quantities, which
is worse for the plants than using too little. I
should advise “ M. M.” to get some of Clay’s
fertiliser or Amies’ chemical manure, and use
them according to the directions sent with
every packet, but by no means to exceed the
quantities stated by the manufacturers. I can
also strongly recommend the Flora Vita for the
use of amateurs and especially of ladies. It is
strengthening to plants and easily applied.—
J. C. C.

12762.—Household pets in suburban
gardens.—I have for many years had a
garden walled in similar to “ J. W.’s,” and what
I have found most effic&oiouB in getting rid of
the grievance complained of, and also in driving
away small birds, which are very often destruc
tive to rising plots of seed and fruit, is to keep
a small dog, and teach him (and he will very
readily acquire the knowledge) that cats and
birds have no business in the garden. He will
take great pleasure in putting cats and birds to
flight without any injury to them, and will do
great benefit to the garden, and cats very soon
get to know, and 83ldom trespass, where dogs
are kept. Even at night-time when my dog is
quietly sleeping indoors I know no better
remedy.—J. G.

- I think “J. W,, Kilburn,” may pre¬
serve his bulbs and flowers and still remain
“a humane man ” by following this simple plan.
Let him make a small shed in the most retired
corner of his garden or yard, and put therein a
barrowful of perfectly dry sifted earth, a few
boards of old packing cases, and a few feet of
felt or corrugated iron will be all that is necea
sary provided it is water-tight. When the cats
find out this retreat, and feel confident that
there is no deception or ill-feeling, they will
discontinne to scratch up the flower beds.—
Catamoule.

- 1 have for some time used peppor to protect my

garden from cats, and find it most effectual. 1 scatter it
over the beds, especially near the odgts. The garden
syringe, where practicable, is a good weapon, as cold
water administered by this means does the cits no harm.
—M. M., Dover.

12776. — Gas Lime. —This' must be very
cautiously used in a garden. What would be a
moderate dressing, spread on the surface of the
ground and dug in, would kill anything planted
on it immediately after. It is evidently of un¬
certain strength, as the market gardeners near
London, who use quantities of it annually,
sometimes put on too much, and lose a crop.
It ought to be put on the ground two or three
months before it is cropped, and even then the
dressing must not be too heavy.—J. D. E.

12761.— Glazing greenhouses.— If your
correspondent is'about putting up greenhouses,
in my opinion, and that is based on practical
experience, he cannot adopt a more unsatisfac¬
tory and extravagant method than using copper
clips. I have seen scores of 18 by 20 panes of
glass (21 oz.) blown out and smashed to pieces
where this method has been adopted. If your
correspondent could visit the interior of one
such glazed house when a cold gusty wind
was blowing, and rain falling, to note the
temperature of house, motion of plants, he will
have seen quite enough. The cheapest and most
satisfactory method I know of is to bed the
glass in first-rate putty, or, better still, red and
white lead, using 4 copper or brass sprigs to
each square, one on either side, about 1^-inch
from the bottom, and one at each corner/ No
top putty should he used, but in its place two
coats of good paint with a very sparing amount of

URBANA-CHAMFAIGPi

Feb. 2*, 1885.]

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

665

turps in it; if done in dry weather this will be
found eminently satisfactory, very durable, and
in the long run by far the cheapest. It requires
only a couple of coats of paint at ioDg intervals
to last a lifetime.—F. W. S., Reading.

- For the benefit of Jas. Loveland I will

give my experience of the slating system. About
three years ago I built a greenhouse, *25 feet by
10 feet, on the above system, by advice, on
account of its cheapness and simplicity and the
easiness with which it could be repaired when
broken ; but, I am sorry to say, the first winter
brought me the same misfortunes that your
friend experienced—viz., the house lost heat,
the wet came in, and the wind blew through the
cracks, and several squares of glass were blown
out, keeping me in dread lest the roof should be
taken on. I got the roof altered to the old
system of rabbet and putty, and it is all I can
desire, having had two winters without the
slightest misfortune. A gentlemau residing
about 5 miles away from here also had one
built on the slating system. The first severe
storm entirely took the roof off. He has now
adopted the same system as I have.—F. IT.,
Hull.

- The system of which I have ex¬
perience is called the 11 Victoria Dry Glazing,”
and it is simply perfect, for not cne drop of
rain con come in, and even the internal wet
passes out instead of running down and dripping
inside. Like many other good ideas, it is
extremely simple, and is so contrived that no
wind can penetrate, and, lastly, it is very
cheap ; and all the wood being under cover the
outlay for painting is reduced to a minimum.—
Lacy Solomon.

12517.—Manure from earth closet.—
From personal experience Imay say that manure
from an earth closet maybe used for anything in
the kitchen garden, especially for the Borecole
and Brassica tribe. In this neighbourhood
Onions are very successfully grown, and night
soil forms the chief compost or manure they
use. For old tilled ground it is highly beneficial,
as it seems to stimulate the growth of plants
in general, and to renovate the soil. Provided
no ashes are used it is a high-class fertiliser in
the flower garden, and meets the requirements of
plants that want substantial food. I have used
it for soft-wooded plants while giving their final
shift into blooming plants, and the trial has
proved successful.— Thomas Lowe.

12S20— Oament for hot-water pipes.—
Well-made joints of good, fresh Portland cement
answer very well. If you have failed to make
it answer the joints were badly made or the
cement you used was stale. It should be used
from a fresh-opened barrel. Many use cement
made from iron filings, which, when properly
made, will last as long as the pipes. It sets
hard in a few hours, but the making of this
sort of joiats should only be entrusted to ex¬
perienced men.—J. C. C.

1*2616.—Mealy bug on vines.— Seeing an
article under the above heading in Gardening
Illustrated, of February 14,1 send you my ex¬
perience, which may prevent someone from killing
his vines by the application of paraffin. Some
years ago I coated slightly with a paint-brush a
vine infected with mealy bug. It did kill the
bug, and also killed the vine outright—not a
bud came. I have cleared one vinery of bug
with an application of coal tar boiled with
double its bulk of clay and water. Coal tar
doe9 not injure the vine when at rest.—J. M. G.,
Abuthnott.

BIRDS.

QUESTIONS.

12620.— Ailing goldfinch. — I have had a goldfinch
about three years, and have bred with it twice. Three
days ago it began to bo mopish, and the fourth day I gave
it a drop of castor oil. It died an hour afterwards, and I
found it had lost a lot of flesh, its breastbone being very
sharp ; round the vent it was all yellow. I have fed it
regularly on hemp, cole, and canary seed mixed. I have
kept a number of birds for several years, and have lost
several canarie3 iu the way described. I shall be grateful
if anyone can assist me.—G oldfixch.

12621.— Canary.— My canary appears to be in perfect
health, is fed regularly on the ordinary canary seed, varied
slightly by bread, cold Potato, and Watercress. He has
a bath daily in cold water, and a small brick of salt is kept
in his cage, which he occasioiyJijr pecks at. Yet-he has
been for the last three or four/moritbs with
feathers on fils bead, and l am l^ttini rm'

nick of salt is kept
ks at. Yet-he has
with scarcijlv anv
^:ier dMbJ-|bout

him. I don’t think ho is troubled with insects. A friend
has recommended me to rub pure lard on the bird’s head ;
but I am afraid to do this, as the fright might prove fatal
to him.—J. J. L.

12622.—Breeding canaries In outdoor aviary
—I would be glad to know through an early edition of
Gardening if it is possible to breed canaries in an
outdoor aviary (the county is North Staffordshire)? The
aviary is an outhouse built of bricks, and 19 open only to
the south ; it is about 4 feet by 4 feet and 6 feet high.—
An Old Subscribkr. [Send your other questions in ac¬
cordance with the rules, and we will insert them j

REPLIES.

12513.—Outdoor aviary.— The best of
all aviaries are those constructed in three
departments all capable of being entirely
separated from one another—a wooden house
with a skylight for roosting, a glasshouse in
front, and an entirely open wire structure in
front of this, which, if space permit, may be
planted with small-leaved evergreens, such as
Box. In buildings of this description many
birds from the tropics will live and thrive with¬
out artificial heat or protection. Should
“Southsea’s” space, or any other considera¬
tion, necessitate an aviary on a smaller scale,
let him, if possible, obtain a site looking south,
and construct there a wooden house with a
sloping roof and a wire front. The wood used
should be inch matchboard, lined inside with
inch stuff to avoid any possibility of draught.
In addition to this a layer of felt between the
double boards of the roof will afford great pro¬
tection, and, if the roof fall at an angle suffi¬
ciently great, the top of the house will he cosy
even in a bleak winter wind. AViro netting
should be avoided ; it will be cheaper in the
end and safer to have strong galvanised wire
work made to fit. The door should be in front,
and if a trap be made on the ground level it will
be found useful in feeding and clearing out
the dirt. The wirework should commence
about IS inches from the ground, which
should be cemented and kept strewn with
sharp sand. Pine branches in leaf will be
found best for nesting and roosting pur¬
poses. Into an aviary of this description
the following birds may be introduced ;
but if “ Southaea ” intends an attempt
at breeding certain sorts of an aggressive
nature must be kept away. I shall be happy to
advise him further on any point which may
trouble himSeed-eating birds : Java sparrow,
indigo finch, nonpareil, paradise, and pin-tailed
Whydah birds ; Virginian nightingale, crimson-
crested cardinal, green cardinal, scarlet Tanegar,
rose-breasted troopial, weavers, Budgerigar,
Turquoisine, red rump, cockatiel, love birds.
Insectivorous : Oriole?, red-winged starling,
black Bui Bui, red-cheeked Bul-bul, mino bird,
blue robin, American robin, mocking-bird,
crested quail, Pekin nightingale (exquisite
songster). The above are all birds easily
obtainable, and at a moderate price. The
whole of them have come unscithed through
winters when the thermometer in my aviaries
showed for days in succession 20 degs. to 30 degs.
of frost—W. S., Hampstead.

12512. — Breeding out - throats.— Your
correspondent, “E. S. H.’s,” birds are evidently
not home birds, or he would tell a different tale
about the egg food. If, however, he continues
to scatter a little egg among the seed, a taste for
it will soon be developed. A few small meal¬
worms may be given occasionally before the
birds commence to sit, and ants’ eggs, obtainable
of moat bird dealers, should be a steady item
in the bill of fare. Cat-throats, if tame, will
breed readily, and prove exceedingly prolific in
an ordinary canary cage ; but they will not
permit an^r touching of the nest or impertinent
curiosity in their family affairs. Let “E. S. H.”
hang the birds in a light position away from
draughts, and supply them with a little broken
straw and Moss, keeping the birds well fed with
such nourishing food as meal-worms or ants’
eggs until the nest is built and the first two or
three eggs laid. During incubation it is well,
while giving plenty of soft food, to discontinue
the use of meal-worms aDd diminish the
quantity of ants’ eggs, as too high feeding may
cause desertion of the nest. When the young
are hatched, which takes place, as a rule, on the
eleventh day from the laying of the last egg,
increase the supply of ants’ eggs, which should
be soaked in warm water, dried, and mixed
with yolk of egg, and give meal-worms occa¬
sionally. Some birds do not take readily to
soft food, but ‘ 1 E. S. H.” must persevere in

persuading them to take it, as until a relish is
developed they will probably not attempt breed¬
ing.—W. S.

POULTRY, RABBITS, &o.

POULTRY KEEPING TO PAY.

As I see you devote a small Bpaco in your paper
to poultry, and os I often read and hear of
people asking the question “ Do poultry pay ?”
I send you a correct account of my experience
on a small scale for twelve months, commencing
from the 1st January to 31st December, 1884,
with ten hens—namely, two light Brahmas, two
Cochins, six Brahma Dorkings—and one silver-
grey Dorking cock. I have a good Grass run of
about a quarter of an acre, and a suitable place
covered over for the poultry to peck and dust
themselves in. This consists of lime rubbish
and roadside sand, and they always have plenty
of water to drink. I feed them three times a
day. The first feed is of bran and meal scalded,
or meal and Potatoes ; the second and third
feeds are of crushed Indian Corn, with Barley
sometimes added, and also small Potatoes, house
scraps, Cabbages, and other things out of the
garden. I brought out from three sittings
27 chickens. Home I sold and the others 1 have
now laying, and, as will be seen from the state¬
ment below, I have had 1,115 eggs, and made
a profit of £3 14s. 7d., so that they have not
done badly. I may also state that poultry
manure, mixed with vegetable matter, I have
found to be an excellent fertiliser for Straw¬
berries, and have had large and good crops
Another year 1 intend making an additional
run and keeping a lot of pure Brahma and
Cochins.

Rbckipts.

£ 9. d.

1115 eggs, at Id. oich.4 12 11

6 fowls killed, at 2s. 6d. e/nh .0 15 0

8 chickens sold, nine weeks old. at 9d. each ... 0 6 0
4 chickens killed, seven weeks old, at 3d. each... 0 2 8

4 pullets killed.0 7 6

Present stock—15 fowls anl 1 cock, at 2j. 61. ... 2 0 0

Exprnditur*.

Commenced with 10 hens and 1 cock, at 2s
10 measures crushed corn, 60 lb., at 3j. 10d

2 measures Barley, at 5 j.

Meal and bran.

To Balance .

James C. Kershaw.

Brook Villa , Bunbury, Cheshire.

£8

4

1

fld .. 1

7

6

. 1

18

4

... 0

10

0

... 0

13

8

... 3

14

7

£8

4

1

QUESTIONS.

12623.—Golden-pencilled Hamburg.— What aro
the chief points cf acock and hen golden-pencilled Ham¬
burg for exhibition ?—Hamruko.

12624.—Sneezing pullet.—I have a pullet which is
continually sneezing; can you tall me what is the cause
and how to prevent it?—H amburg.

12625.— Preserving oggs .—Will any reader gi vc
a reliable receipt for preserving eggs?—G. F. P. 4

12626.—Ducks losing their feathers.— Will any
reader tell me the cause of my ducks losing their feathers ?
How should I treat them? I feed them on Indian Meal
mornings, and Indian Corn at nights.—J. B.

12627.—Rearing turkeys —I am interested in the
reply to the question on the breeding of turke s (ace
No. 308). I tried it last year with fair success, the birds were
fine, large, and strong. I failed entirely, however, in getting
them fat for Christmas. Although they had jm much
Maize and Rice meal as they could eat they were only
half fat. Can you advise me how to proceed with better
results for next winter ?—SuB.soRrBRR.

12628.—Filmy matter on rabbits’ eyes —My
rabbits, two month* old, have a filmy matter over the cye3.
Can any reader tell me the cau e and the remedy ?—Zm.

REPLIES.

12560.—Rearing young turkeys.—
These birds often prove very delicate indeed,
and unless great care and scrupulous cleanliness
be strictly adhered to it is hopeless to expect
good returns. A turkey hen sits from twenty-
eight to thirty days. Do not be in a hurry to
remove the chickens to a pen ; but let them be
nested well first. Then remove to a snug coop,
which should be placed in fresh dry ground
every day, and let the box part have its back
to the wind. The ground under the coop should
be strewn with sawdust or dry earth, renewed
every day. The hen should first have a good
meal of corn or soft food, and then the chicks
must be fed on oatmeal well soaked in ale and
water, mixed dry with stale bread crumbs and
hard Yxviled 3»ggu chopped fine Contmue this
for about a week, varying occasion ally with

URBANA-CHAMPAIGN

GARDENING ILLUSTRATED

[Feb. 28 , 1885 .

0C6

barley-meal or Spr&tt’s poultry food ; after
which gradually do away with the eggs, and
introduce grain ; dredge wheat is very good.
A little rice now and then helps to prevent
diarrhoea. Be very careful about the water
being always freBh and clean, and a very small
quantity of iron tonic may be added once or
twice a week. A few drops of Parrish’s
chemical food is as good as anything in the
shape of tonics. Likewise a little spice condi¬
ment should be mixed in the soft food, as it
giveB stamina to resist wet and cold. If a run
in the grass is desirable, choose a tine day for
the indulgence, as walking through wet grass
for any length of time is most injurious to
the youngsters. The hen also should not be
allowed to ramble at will, or she will soon
leave the weakly ones to perish behind. Cramp
causes the death of many young turkeys. If
taken in time, and the feet dipped in any kind
of spirit (which should also be well rubbed in),
and the bird is placed in a basket before the
fire for an hour or two, it generally recovers.
Roup, however, is the worse disease to which
young turkeys are subject, and is easily detected
by swollen heads, with fetid discharge from the
eyes and nostrils. It is moBt important that
the patient be isolated at once, as roup is most
infecting; in fact, we strongly recommend
killing the bird at once. If a cure be attempted
confine in a warm, dry place (in the kitchen in
a hamper is the best), and bathe the head with
warm water, in which a small quantity of
carbolic acid has been mixed. The eyes should
be afterwards sponged with clean water. Feed
on the most nutritious food, and a little sherry
in the drinking water often does good by keeping
the strength up.— Andalusian.

12559. — Privet berries injurious to
fowls. —We are decidedly of the opinion that
Privet berries are not good for fowls. We do
not know what kind of shrub to plant round or
in a poultry run—that is, if the run is oonfined
and not of grass, as the fowls will certainly eat
the leaves off as far as they can reach. If,
however, the birds have plenty of grass, they
will not trouble to pluck the leaves off shrubs,
and it is then only requisite to plant those
which do not bear any berries, such as the
Laurel. To hide a wired in run the only plan
is to plant about 10 inches from the wire,
which, with a little trimming now and then,
will be all that is required.— Andalusian.

12655.— Oramp in chickens. — Perhaps
“ W. W.” keeps his chicks on a boarded floor,
or, at any rate, in an outhouse. They should be
sheltered from wet, but require liberty to
scratch about, and like a run for an hour or
two in the day on a lawn or other short grass.
Chicks kept on boards entirely are sure to have
cramp before they are a fortnight old. Early
chicks are easily reared on a south border. Put
a piece of board under the coop for the hen to
brood them on, (this should be kept very clean),
and the chicks will do the garden no harm by
scratching about.—E. J. L.

- Cramp in chickens is very easily

cured by keeping them in a basket or box, with
warm, dry sand, before the kitchen fire, and
bathing their feet in warm water two or three
times a day, the toes being rubbed and spread
out gently while in the water. The following
tonic may be given with their food, a pinch
at a time 2 oz. Peruvian bark, 1 oz. citrate
of iron, 1 oz. gentian, 2 oz. Pimento, 1 oz.
cayenne ; powder and mix.—M. A. E.

AQUARIA.

In Vol. I. of Gardening Illustrated we
endeavoured to explain, in a series of articles,
how an aquarium should be commenced, main¬
tained, and studied. The volume being now
entirely out of print, and the questions from
our subscribers still coming in, asking for
information relative to aquaria, we address our
readers again upon the subject; and should the
suggestions appear to some to be a repe¬
tition we ask their indulgence, and, in ex¬
cuse, point out that new readers have multi¬
plied to such an extent that very many thou¬
sands have not read the previous articles, and
we also believe that to those who, like ourselves,
really delight in the pleasure of observing and
collecting objects foc^an aquarium, which is so
full of the wonders of suture written
descriptions of tt fc_ dp igjDprr »4pd changes

that take place in the plants and animals in the
aquarium never fail to be interesting. We hope
they will even evoke a spirit of emulation which
may tempt some of our readers to take advan¬
tage of the columns of Gardening Illustrated
to give their experience, and so tell others of
their success, and how it was accomplished. As
the time is fast approaching for the ponds to be
covered with the plants suitable for an
aquarium, and the genial weather is tempting
forth the aquatic insects, we suggest that
those intending to start an aquarium should
decide where they intend placing it. The
position of the aquarium in relation to the
light is an essential element to success—in fact,
it will be a failure altogether unless the position
is suitable. A northern aspect is the best; next
to that, north-east; lastly, north-west. Any
other position will entail failure, because the
heat of the sun will cause a confervoid growth
to appear which will soon mar all the beauty of
the aquarium, and also render the lives of the in¬
habitants unbearable. We advise our readers
to commence with a small one that can easily
be emptied of its contents, and thus be started
afresh, until the balance of life in it can be
maintained without changing the water. No¬
body should attempt to have an aquarium with¬
out understanding that, once started, it must
be rendered self-supporting—that is to say, the
position and contents must be arranged accord¬
ing to natural laws, and by that means the
water will remain clear, the animals will live,
and the plants will grow without any more
attention. N. R. G.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Notice. — Some oj our readers send us questions to
which, either on a/rount of their vagueness or want of
general interest, or because they refer to matters entirely
outside the province o/ Gardening, we do not give plate in
our query column. These will be dealt with under the
heading “ To Correspondents." All queries sent to us are
■noticed, and we will do our utmost to supply the informa¬
tion desired— Ed.

[We regret that owing to pressure on our space we
cannot at once tlnd room (or many valuable contributions
that have reached us.]

ing good Hyacinth bulbs Is very doubtful, aud as they can
be bought so cheaply they are scarcely worth the trouble.

-Silver Sand (F. P.),— We are not acquainted with

the sand used by glass-makers, and do not know whether
it Is identical with that used by florists; the latter is a

sharp, white sand. - Manuring Roses (IV. G. You

have probably given an overdose of the concentrated
manure you mention. You had better, as you suggest,

remove a portion of the top-soil.- Treatment of

Cyclamens (IV. C. B ).—Abundant information on the
subject is contained in the pages of Gardenwg. See

“ Winter Flowering Plants,” Feb. 7th.- Jam jars fob

Chrysanthemums (W. E. C.).— No; glazed pots,especially
when glazed inside, are not at all suitable for plant cul¬
ture. -Leather-tarings for kitchrn garden (G.

Evam ).—No ; there is very little nutriment in them.-

Allotment (R. B. IV .).—Wo fear wo cannot advise you in
the matter. If you have no confidence in the opinion of
the solicitor in question your best and safest plan would

be to consult another.- Brier or Manbtti Stock for

budding (A'. Y. Z .).~It is difficult to advise you which U
the best, as one Stock is more suitable to certain soils than
to others. Manetti finds most favour, and can be bought

at any Rose nursery. - Grass seed not germinating

(Daisy).— As you sowed the seeds both in heat and in the
open ground we think that they could not have been
good, and it is of little use to rely on them this season.

-Raising Eucalyptus and Conifers (Af iasma) —Euca

lyptus is raised from seed ; the others you name are also
raised from seed, but you will probably find it easvto get
small plants of all of them at a low price from any tree

nurseries. - Sowing Sweet Peas (A Young Gardeneri—

Sweet Peas required to bloom in the middle of June

should be sown in September.- Time of planting

Gladiolus (Minoosh). —By no means keep your Gladiolii;
bulbs in l*>xes until the autumn. The best time to plant

is April or May. -Rmvk d’Or in open air (A. 1”. Z ) -

Yes;R£ved‘Or will flourish in the open air in a warm
situation ; all the becter if placed against a warm wall.

- Increasing Rhubarb (Lordswood).— Rhubarb is

readily increased by division of the crowns and the root*,
the smallest of which, if they oro carefully divided, will
grow. — Ed.

Names Of plants.— Canne.— We cannot name
your plant accuiately from such a scrap, but it looks like

a species of Eriogonum.- Xortuna .—Romulea Bui bo

codium.- South Devon. — Azara microphylla. The

Violet is interesting, but worthless compared with garden
varieties. The absence of a protracted spell of frost is no
doubt the reason of the bulbs being so luxuriant this

year.- Chas. Woolston .—Apparently a Croton. Will no*

live in a sitting-room for any length of time. - T. E. F.—

Apparently a good sort of white Cineraria.- F. Af. A\—

Garrya elliptica.- Minoosh .—Apparent y a leaf of an

Abutilon.- T. Af. Burke.— Worn is Hypnum tamarisci-

nnm ; Polyanthus is a Hose in Ho»e variety.- Col.

(Folkestom ).—Grevillea robusta, an Australian plant-

II T. E.—l, Polypodium vulgare ; 2, Lastrea Fillx
mas. ; 3, Lastrea dilatata ; 4, Bled num spicant.

Garden dictionary (J. P, Iancashire).— Thanks for
reply. The book you mention, however, is not a dic¬
tionary, and we are quite of your opinion that it is not

good enough.- Roses struck in bottles (Lathom).—

Roses struck in bottles should be potted in small 00’a to

begin with ; a mixture of sweet loam and sand is beet.-

White Jasmine (A Constant Reader) —You do not say
what the Jasmine is. Some species of White Jasmine are
quite hardy in our country, while others require the

highest stove temperature.- Daffodil (/l. G.).—Any

Daffodils that will do in the open air will also do in a cool
greenhorn e, but generally the Italian kind and its forms
and the Jonquil, Doth large aud small, are chosen for this

purpose.- Raising half-hardy annuals (F. W. S.).—

We will attend to your suggestion, and publish an article

such as you describe soon.- Winter Honeysuckle

(Af. T. K.y —The Winter Honeysuckle (Lonicera fragran-
tissiraa) figured recently in Gardening, should be obtained
from any of the large tree or shrub nurseries in town or
oountry ; in fact, anv good nurseryman ought to be able to

get it for you. - Yew trees (K. E. S.).— They should be

trimmed as Boon os possible.- Silvery-leaved Sun¬

flower (A. Spurting) —Try Mr. Thompson, Tavern Street,

Ipswich.- Bee keeping (IJueen Bee).—We do not know

the address.- Plan drawing (M. Af. Yates )—We can¬

not recommend tradesmen ; you should seek a local man.
—— Asters ( Westlothian). — See replies in pp. 042-3,

Feb. 14th.- Paraffin for fruit trees (Mrs. Reed).—

The proportion of paraffin in the weak solution referred to
in the answer to query 12041 should be a wineglassful to
4 gallons of soft water. Keep the solution well mixel

while applying it to the trees.- Garden boil (F. Af. R )

You may easily overdo the dressing of coal ashes, but
they are not in excess in the sample of soil you send,

which appears to bo good. - Treatment op Camellias

(Derry).— Muoh better results are obtained by planting
Camellias out in the borders of a cool house, and we
should advise you to follow this course if you can. See

also reply to question 12701 in Jan. 21, p. 650.- Honey

company (F. Howell).— Offices, 17, King William Street,
Strand- Boiler (J. R ).—Why not apply to him person¬
ally ?- Water plants (G. T. C .).—Robert Kennedy,

Covent Garden.- Distinguishing Rohes (J. S.). —

Obtain a good Rose nurseryman’s catalogue, such as that
of Mr. W. Paul, Waltham Cro-is.^— Ginobr beer plant
(Constant Reader).—We do not know the plant you allude
to. If you send us a piece of it we may be able to help

you.- Fuchsia (J. Wilson).— Most probably the variety

you first had sported into another similar to Rose of Castile.

-Cytisus KACEMOSU8 (L.D .).— Prune in the stems and use

healthy soil only, not artificial manure.- Greenhouse

building (IP. Stoktr). —Your plan seems right. The pro¬
portions, however, should be considered in strict relation
to the kinds of plants you want to grow. We do not quite
understand what you mean about “ the altitude of the
sun,” but scarcely need say that the influence of the sun
in such cases is very great. The glazing you name we
have heard nothing against; 21-inch glass is b* st for a
goo i house. If this answer does not give you all the in¬
formation you want write your question a little more
fully, ami make your drawings bigger than a Pea seed ;
we shall then be happy to ask our readers to help you

-Scotch Rockets (IVm. Thomson).—Ttie writer of

the note referred to is not a nurseryman and does not
sell plants, but you can get them from Edinbuigh ami

London nurserymen who grow hardy flowers.- Off-

shoots FROM Uyacintus (F. You success in develop¬

Cataloguea received.— Show and Fancy Pansiei,
Pinks, and other Florists' Flowers. Wm. Paul and Son,

Crossflat Nursery’, Paisley.- Vegetable and Flower Seeds.

James Yates, Little Underbank, Stockport.- Pansies,

Carnations, Dahlias, dtc, John Sutherland, Victoria

Nurseries, Lenaie, N.B- Vegetable and Flower Seeds, Ac.

P. J. Kane, Kells, Meath.- Jersey Chrysanthemums. H.

Elliott, Springfield Nursery, St. Helier’s- Florists'

Flowers, Stove and Greenhouse Plants, Ferns, dtc. John

Forbes. Hawick, N.B.- General Catalogue. Harrison

and Sons, Leicester.- Floral Gems, New and Rare

African Plants, Blackberries, and Chinese Yam Viccara

Collyer and Co., Central Hall, Leicester.- Agricultural

Seeds. Waite, Nash, and Huggins, Southwark Street,
London.

UHUBARB, good roots, early Albert and
, Victorias, 2s. 6d. per dozen; Seakalo, good roots, 1a. and
Is. 6d. per doz.; Asparagus plants, Conovers Colossal, 2 years,

co.%gjSt.$h.M 100i p “ kw

OTRAWBERfUES, strong plants. Vicomte

Thury (best early), President, Sir J. Paxton, Elton Pine,
and British Queen, 3s. 6d. per 100. carriage free.-S. COOPER
Hadleigh, Suffolk.

TTARDY CLIMBERS.--Clematis (white). Blue

Passion-flower, Japanese Honeysuckle, yellow Jessa¬
mine, white ditto. American Blaokberry, Vinca eleg&ntissima,
Cotoneaater, Periploca, Pyracantbus (re<l-berried), Virginian
Creeper, New Veitchii (clings to wall), Ivies ana Eccremo-
carpus, all good strong established plants, 2 and 3 years old
Is. 3d. each; any three, 3s., carriage free.—8. COOPER,
Hadleigh. 8uffolk._

TiR i ROOTS of under named—Begonia, choice
AJ tuberous-rooted, 3a 6d. dozen; Single Dahlias, 12
splendid named varieties, 3s. 6d.; unnamed. 2j. 6d. dozen ;
Gloxinias, six 2s. three for Is. 3d ; Achimema, in named
varieties, 2a. dozen, pose freo. BA ML. COOPER, Hadleigh.
Suffolk.

SEEDS OF BEST QUALITY ONLY.-Single

^ Dahlia, saved from newest and choicest named varie¬
ties. Is. ; Nicotians a Aims, 6d.; Aster, choicest imported, 6d.
to 2s. 6d. ; Verbena, choicest mixe<i. Is ; Petunia, finest
fringed and striped. Is. ; Cyclamen, choice, 6d.: Wallflower.
Harbinger, splendid, dark, 6d.; Everlastings, choice, mixed,
6d., all per packet. Collections of choice Vegetable seeds,
5a, 7s. 6a., IDs. 6d., 15s., and 2ls. Flower Seeds same price,
certain satisfaction. Carriage free. —8. COOPER, Seed
Me rchant. Hadleigh, Suffolk. _

TWTOSS ROSES, 3s. 6J. ; best double Holly-
TvJ. hocks. 6s.; Carnations, strong, choice mixed, 3s. 6d
Cinerarias, flowering plants, 3s.; Alpine Auriculas, Is. 6<L ;
all per doz. ; Nicotians afflnii, flowering plants, 9d. each;
Palms. 6d.. Is., and Is. 6d. each. Carriage free.-S.
COOPER, Hadleig h. Suffolk

(GARDENER (single-handed or where another

'J is kept), thoroughly practical in flower, fruit, and
kitchen gardening.— E. D., 3, Buer Rood, Wandsworth,

Lon do n. B.W. __

OURREY.—To be Let or Sold* a COTTAGE

^ with a very large garden end greenhouse, about 72 feet
long, containing 24 vines heated by hot water. The garden
has rot £ side entrance about 25 feet. Would ;uit a jobbing
jDrdoner or any other bunincs* requiring i large space of
ground- — For particulars apply to J. WOOLTOkTON
Glpuy Cottage, Rommay Roi.d, Lower Norwood

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